FASHION & THE COVID FACTOR

It’s hard to think fashion trends when your top level meeting features you in slouchy PJ bottoms, topped with a natty business shirt and full make-up. The Zoomattire trend was somewhat unexpected.

Clearly Covid has had a strong impact on fashion and trends, not only because of our lockdown lethargy and

Home Is Office/University/ School status, but wariness of spending on “luxury goods” when future incomes are precarious. Most are comfortable buying a standard tracksuit online, but haute couture, not so much, not so simple, and hey, when and where would we wear it?

Kiara Gounder lectures at

DUT’s Department of Fashion & Textiles. She talks the bigger picture: “Fashion is a cultural phenomenon – it’s only natural the pandemic would impact this industry. Consumer needs shifted, with an increased demand for work leisurewear

FASHION

& the Covid factor

IN THIS CRAZY STOP-START SCARY WORLD IN WHICH WE’RE LIVING, IS THERE REALLY SUCH A THING AS FASHION AND TRENDS? ACCORDING TO OUR LOCAL BRANDS, DESIGNERS AND THOSE IN THE KNOW, THERE SURELY ARE, WRITES ANNE SCHAUFFER

(work-from-home attire) and loungewear. The ‘home’ has become the primary work location for many, and the fashion industry has tried to cater to the increased demand for ‘online and offline-wear’. Above-the-keyboard dressing remains a priority.” She added, “Comfort is still key, even in post-lockdown nations. Consumers are prioritising functional, practical and comfortable clothing.”

LEFT TO RIGHT: Scotch &

Soda; Willow; and Bianca Warren.

Yes, oversized has become a major trend, whether it’s for ease of movement, a coverup of Covid curves, or couch comfort, but, says Kiara, comfort isn’t everything. “High fashion items have not been entirely abandoned. Haute couture provides a sense of drama and escapism a lot of people yearn for. The culture and ‘ritual’ of dressing up is still something many people engage with from home. You don’t necessarily need to be going somewhere in order to dress up. There’s a psychology behind fashion and appearances – often it’s just the act of dressing up that makes us feel better. Some may need to dress up in order to be productive from home. What we wear, to a certain extent, affects our mood and productivity.”

Few in the industry have escaped the Covid effect on fashion and trends, and for local designer Bianca Warren who focuses largely on event and evening wear, Covid bit deep. But adaption is the key, and she did just that.

But Bianca saw the Covid writing on the wall and created an online range of leisurewear: “It was a huge trend,” she says, “and we had record sales.”

Kiara touched on online shopping and your social media image: “Consumers are prioritising classic, core clothing items that are transseasonal and have a longer shelf life. With ‘Instagram’ and ‘flex culture’, many who used to ‘partake’ in fashion prior to the pandemic are still, and even more so, following consumer fashion at an alarming rate. Online platforms are the new way of being ‘seen’ – this includes the pressure to engage with fashion trends and communicate them digitally through social media.”

Cathy van Rooyen of Willow has always had her designing eye on trends, but won’t be a slave to them. Her ranges have mainly concentrated on loose comfort, so she was spot on: “We’re drawn to classic pieces with a touch of detail, with a play on trends. We love looser cuts and relaxed pieces that make women feel confident and elegant. We’re all about understated chic and pieces »

that suit our relaxed Durban lifestyle.”

She describes her upcoming summer range as: “Inspired by the warmth, sunshine and vibrant colours of Provence – they remind us about what we love about our own country where nature and beautiful landscapes abound.”

Athleisure is the big buzz word. “South Africans are having a love affair with athleisure at the moment,” she says. “All ages are enjoying the loungewear trend with sneakers – trendy loungewear and knits fly out of our stores.”

What about dresses? “Durbanites love their dresses! Long flowy dresses are very popular; so too, short ones, but nothing too tight fitting – it’s definitely about tiers and layers that skim the figure. From soft rayons in shifts and tier dresses, to beautiful cotton prints in loose fitting tunics and beautiful linen dresses, our customers can’t get enough,” says Cathy.

Lisa Yuille of Lula Clothing sees spring dresses with some frills, wrap skirts with frills, and jumpsuits. “Trends are short or long frill dresses with three-quarter sleeves for spring and summer. No matter what size or shape you are, you look good in them.” She says oversized tops and jeans are also in: “Oversized tops hide a multitude of sins.”

When it comes to colours, designs and fabrics, Cathy’s customers are in love with

We’re seeing loads of zips, four-way stretch fabric that breathes, and hidden pockets

mustard and citron/chartreuse colours: “Green in various hues is also very popular. We’re seeing a lot of sage green and muted shades of pink too.” She adds, “We’re always drawn to botanicals. Animal prints are like the new black.”

Kiara sees a surge in bright, bold and printed colour palettes: “This taps into a sense of postCovid positivity as more of the local population is vaccinated. That being said, the recent third wave of infections will cause a resurgence in cocooned silhouettes and protective wear.”

Dutch-based brand Scotch & Soda’s Lisa Armitage adds that, “As far as fabrics are concerned, responsible design remains a focus. Swimwear is made from Econyl and recycled yarns.”

The eco-trend is a driving factor for Laurie and Gary Holmes of South African brand Holmes Bros. As Laurie says, “We try hard to use cottons which are not as impactful on the environment. Our fabrics are knitted and woven in SA, and 85 percent of our merchandise is made locally. “At the moment, there’s a big technical trend led by Nike and Adidas, so it’s utilitarian fashion. Brands which were exclusively about mountain climbing, hiking, running and outdoor action, have taken those elements into day wear. We’re seeing loads of zips, four-way stretch fabric that breathes, and hidden pockets.” He laughs, “People go to the mall and feel as if they’re climbing Mount Everest.

“Covid has people dressing more casually. Previously guys felt they had to wear a button-up shirt and leather shoes to work, now they’ve taken it down a notch to

LEFT TO RIGHT: Lula

Clothing; Holmes Bros.

chinos with a T-shirt.”

Does all this mean we’ve pressed pause on high fashion? Most feel Yes, but not so according to Scotch & Soda: “If there’s no reason to dress up, it doesn’t mean you can’t keep it for when you can. We’ve seen our most fashionable items to be in high demand despite lockdown restrictions.”

Lisa describes Scotch & Soda’s summer 2021 collection as “being defined by a free-spirited mood inspired by Simone Melchior, the trailblazing 1950s sea explorer. Drawing on her colourful life, the collection heroes an individual and personal approach to dressing built on an eclectic blend of colours, prints and classics. Standout prints are present in both collections, featuring sea life from neon starfish to lobsters, to hand-sketched scenes of farmhouses and florals.

“Summer tailoring is recast in pastels mirroring colours of the sea, with unexpected strength and softness. The idea of season-less dressing is key, anchored in modern classics and denim influenced by the utilitarian practicality of ‘mariniere’ uniforms.”

And oversized comes into play of course. “For women, a play on volume is explored in a multiplicity of silhouettes, from structured puff-sleeved dresses to fluid wide-leg cargo trousers – cropped shapes, high waists and full A-lines further experiment with proportions. The joyful colour palette takes on the hues of the countryside and sea: tones of sienna, sand, ecru and French blue with bursts of orchid pink, marigold, salmon and foam green.”

And then … what about jeans? Baggy rules? Cathy feels: “Skinny jeans are always popular especially if they fit well. Dark blue always looks smart and is more slimming, and m om jeans are having a fashion moment.” Kiara’s take is, “Loose, straight leg in vintage light washes and fits, and jeans with cotton and elastane blends. Wide leg denims have also dropped in retail stores. The looser silhouettes echo the desire for the less restrictive athleisure and loungewear.”

Laurie says they’re loosening up: “Overseas, really baggy trousers are coming through. People push it as far as they can in one direction, so skinny jeans … and now we’re getting looser again.”

Little doubt that trends as well as spending and buying habits have been affected by the pandemic. Kiara summed it up: “Covid has greatly influenced how we make, sell and consume fashion.” But a trend is never forever – hopefully, neither is this pandemic – so we’ll be out of our elderly PJs and tired tracksuits before we know it? *