FARID THE ZINE | Through The Decades | Winter 2023

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THROUGH THE DECADES


Editor’s note As the new Editor-in-Chief of FARID, I would like to say hello! I am Olivia and have written for FARID for the last three years while being at university. Working with the teams that have gone by, I am conscious I have big shoes to fill as they have all done such a great job. FARID is a magazine, written by students, for students. It is a great creative outlet that shares so many impactful and interesting stories for everyone to read. We love seeing work from other creative industry students that we can include in each issue. I am so proud of how hard everyone has worked on this issue and I cannot wait to get started on the next! Before I sign off, here is a little bit about this issue ‘Through the Decades’, and why we decided on this theme.

We welcome you to a journey through time, eras, style and cultural shifts. We are so excited to share this issue with you, showing the changes we have gone through together. From the Roaring Twenties to the grungefilled Nineties and the digital age of the 2000s, our talented team have worked hard to explore this theme; capturing the progress of every era. From fashion to music and sports, we hope you find moments of nostalgia and discover new perspectives in this issue with us, as you flick through the pages, reflecting on where we’ve been, where we are and where we’re going.

Magazine editor OLIVIA WITHERS

Web editor

DYLAN ROBERTSON 2


Special Thanks The FARID team UOG Journalism Jessica Galgey Daisy Bodkin ejay Jade Henderson- @drawm bery Ellie Chaffey- @theftshrub gn_ Alex Williams- @alexwdesi iondesign sh fa aw @ ck co ill W ra nd Alexa and Production UOG Magazine Journalism

Join us! Want to write or submit creative work for our issues? Email: thefaridmag@gmail.com Instagram: @faridthezine X: @faridthezine

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CONTENTS FASHION

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FASHION CONNECTION THROUGH DECADES ILLUSTRATION FASHION TRENDS THROUGH THE DECADES MENS STREET AND SKATE STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY CIRCULAR FASHION, ZERO WASTE + SUSTAINABILITY FASHION DESIGN + PHOTOGRAPHY CLASSIC FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY ICONIC OUTFITS IN MOVIES HOW HAS THE ‘IDEAL’ BODY STANDARD CHANGED?


MUSIC MUSIC NOSTALGIA DEFINING MUSIC THROUGH THE DECADES

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SPORT SPORT THROUGH THE DECADES THE ROOTS OF RUNNING 50 YEARS OF WOMENS TENNIS

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CULTURE CELEBRITY CULTURE HOW HAVE CELEBS CHANGED SINCE THE 1900S? WOMANHOOD IS MY MOTHER’S WATCH ILLUSTRATION + ARTICLE

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FASHION THROUGH THE DECADES

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o you think that fashion has evolved? It’s always going to be a debate — whether fashion has changed for the better — or for the worse. From the traditional silhouettes created by names such as Dior, to modern twists on the expression of fashion through the likes of Dolce and Gabbana, fashion is always changing and evolving; it will never stop, and that’s what makes it fascinating! The era of bows and frills, flappers, jazz, and the little black dress— the 1920s. Coco Chanelcreated the idea of the little black dress, worn for every occasion. During this time, women had little expression through fashion— the ‘LBD’ allowed them to have some fashion freedom. Simple yet elegant, and still relevant today. Flapper-style dresses were usually black, straight-style, sleeveless, and knee-length. Flappers usually had a bob style haircut— and used makeup in a very expressive way — in a time where that was certainly not the norm. Overall, the 1920s was all about women beginning to express themselves through fashion, makeup, and hairstyles; it was the beginning of women dressing for themselves. The 1920s seemed far fussier in terms of fashion when compared to the 30s. The 1930s saw many technological advancements— such as moving picture films— which had a significant impact on the way fashion trends progressed. The 30s was seen as the ‘Decade of Design’— and not only were there advancements in technology— but also, attitudes towards fashion had shifted, and it was now seen as a legitimate profession, due to the influence it had on people. The bias cut was created in the

1930s. This method allowed the fabric to naturally wrap around the body, to emphasise the woman’s natural shape; heralding the return of the waist. Evening dresses were created to emphasise the woman’s waist — with a beautiful skirt in a flirtatious, and even sensual look— the iconic 1930s silhouette. The era of the Hollywood beach babe— the 1940s. Women’s dresses got a little shorter, and men’s suit colours became bolder, all due to Hollywood films. The midriff was born in the 1940s, and was showcased through two-piece bikinis. Even though the bikini was banned for being a little too revealing until the 50s, 1940s bikinis were evidently one-piece swimsuits cut in

half. They usually had a halter neck top, with bottoms looking like a tight mini skirt — starting at the waist— covering the entire backside. This was a more modest take on the bikini. The modesty of the bikini diminished by the late 40s— the strapless two piece became very popular amongst the young and brave women of the 40s. The rise of Christian Dior, teen fashion, and Hollywood— it was the 1950s. Christian Dior created their iconic hourglass silhouette, which remains timeless in fashion today. Skirts with large volume, heavy pleating, padded hips, and a cinched waist; Christian Dior designed with the notion to live by beauty and extravagance. The bar suit was one

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of the most iconic designs by Christian Dior in the 1950s. It’s recognisable for its extreme slenderness of the waist and flared skirt. The bar was named after the Plaza Athénée, which Dior frequented. Skirt suits and co-ordinating accessories remained a staple in the 1960s— under the influence of First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy— and Hollywood actress, Barbra Eden. They were idolised around the world for their lady-like fashion, consisting of a boxier skirt suit, by designers such as Dior and Givenchy. The 60s also introduced the revolutionary miniskirt, which was worn mostly by younger women. Along with this came the new use of fabrics and colours. Pop art influenced designers to use shiny PVC, polyester, and brightly coloured fabric. Flares, long hair, and flower power is in the air— the hip 70s. Fashion takes a drastic turn, when women’s clothing

just fabulous! Icons such as Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent helped create some of the most iconic accessories from the "80s. Structured silhouettes and playful shapes sum up this decade’s fashion choices. Nike Air Jordans, baggy jeans, MC Hammer pants, and leather-look jackets — the 1990s. R&B and Rap musicians (Tupac, MC Hammer, and Next) had a major impact on the fashion of this decade. Baggy denim jeans were no longer only male, but females arguably wore them better; paired with their Nike Air Jordans or platform boots. Mini bralette tops under an oversized bomber or leather-look jacket was the craze, and lip gloss was sold out everywhere. Denim, tracksuits, monogrammed designer bags, and everything bedazzled, Y2K— the 2000s. Blue eyeshadow, Maybelline mousse foundation, and orange setting powder, was the look

“Nostalgia, sexy, and oversized” becomes more casual- the introduction to bell bottoms, and flared jeans. Along with this came graphic tees and platform boots. Fashion became more accessible to all social classes. Maxi skirts and dresses, paired with tie-dye blouses became a huge trend. Hippie chokers, headbands, and handmade jewellery made from beads and gemstones, allowed for the expression of the free-spirited youth. Bubble-gum pinks, shoulder pads, and biker shorts… here comes Madonna— the 80s baby! Icons such as Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent helped create some of the most iconic accessories from the 80s. Structured silhouettes and playful shapes sum up this decade’s fashion choices. Controversial, love-hate trends were everything in this decade— just look at the trend of leggings as jeans. The casual, classic Pods ruled the shoe scene; with the variety of colour, and simplistic shape, they dominated the market. It’s all about accessories during this decade— the hats, the broaches, the 10

belts... all of this decade. Designers such as Louis Vuitton, sold millions of their monogrammed bags and skinny scarves. Low rise Diesel denim jeans were one of the most popular fashion trends, along with Juicy Couture tracksuits; which both have made a comeback in the 2020s. The 2010s was the decade of colour, streetwear, skinny jeans, and looking like you were attending a festival! It was the decade which arguably saw the most growth by the end of it. This was because social media platforms, such as Music.ly and Instagram, allowed people worldwide to share their own expression of fashion. The 10s re-circulated older fashion trends from the past three decades, and introduced a craze of ‘vintage fashion’. Girl groups, such as Little Mix and the Pussycat Dolls, became fashion icons for the young women of the ‘10s with their brightly coloured denim and street-style vibes. Nostalgia, sexy, and oversized— fashion in the ‘20s. Lace corsets paired with baggy jeans, darker colours, Doc Marten


boots, and smart-casual vibes only. This decade so far, has felt very nostalgic when it comes to fashion. Old-money style clothes, mixed with the vibe of the 90s is the way forward so far. Unlike some of the previous decades, when going out with your girlfriends, the goto shoe is the platform converse trainer, or Nike Air Jordans; which likely match with the corset or mini dress. OversizedJeans with a turtleneck and blazer is considered smart-casual— while skinny jeans or jeggings disgust the fashion world of 2020. Sofia Richie has brought chic fashion back, through designers such as Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent — 1940s-60s bar suits, and heavy pleated maxi dresses are back. Do you think fashion has evolved? A lot of the iconic fashion pieces and silhouettes remain timeless, and all seem to make an eventual comeback decades later. That is the power of fashion— it may be ever-changing, but the power a designer has is evident when it remains iconic for several decades— like with Christian Dior. It will always be a debate, and up to interpretation if fashion really has changed for the better. In my opinion, some decades were weaker than others. The 1940s old-money vibes and iconic silhouettes have remained stylish in 2020— it might be my favourite fashion trend of all time— but that opinion may change as fashion continues to change! 

90’s - Tupac Shakur

2000’s Paris Hilton

Feature by Lily-May Broadhead.

2023 Corset Outift 11


FASHION IS CONSTANTLY EVOLVING. THIS SHOOT IS BASED ON MODERN MENS STREET AND SKATE STYLE. PHOTOGRAPHY

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Circlular fashion zero waste + sustainability Autumn/Winter 2024 Contemporary Menswear Collection, entirely made from unwanted denim garments, otherwise off to landfill. 14


“The 2020s have elevated sustainability by creating a Circular Fashion design approach, focusing on a garment’s entire lifecycle, from design to disposal. Upcycling, deconstruction and zero waste have become the latest trends.”

Designer: Alexandra Willcock Model: Henry Brereton 15


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FASH 16


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ICONI OUTF IN MOVIE By Madeleine Grice Woods

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ave you ever watched a movie that made you want to change everything about yourself and your life? Me too, in fact, it happens at least once a week. For some reason, there’s something about certain films that makes people want to adopt the characters’ lives, personalities and most importantly, their style. It’s a condition that most of us suffer from, whether you would admit it or not. From the early movies such as ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ to the latest releases like ‘Barbie’, there’s no denying we have all once thought, ‘I wish I could be like them.’

My first experience of this feeling was when I watched Bratz in 2010. Granted, I was only 7 at the time and I didn’t understand much of the storyline, however, I did understand that they were highly stylish people. If you’ve seen the film, you’ll understand that they created a whole new outlook on fashion that resulted in everyone (ok, maybe just us 7-year-olds) wishing we had their style. All I wanted was to be like them (sorry Barbie), it didn’t even matter which one. The gogo boots, miniskirts and tube tops opened my eyes to a whole new world of fashion. Ok, at 7 I wasn’t going to the park in these clothes, I didn’t even own anything but dungarees, but it did influence the way I dressed when I got older, although I do regret wearing the fake blue hair extensions to the occasional party (let’s not talk about that any further). To this day, I still think about them and how their outfits complemented their personalities and self-confidence and encouraged expression, because after all, isn’t that what we all want? During lockdown, along with thousands of people across the world, I watched way too many films. What else was there to do? I revisited some old classics, watched some new releases and everything in between. Although I felt a little guilty spending my days watching films, it got me thinking about other characters outfits and how that impacted me and the fashion industry. 

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BREAKfAST AT TIFFANY’S 1

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Within the first few minutes of the film, the iconic black dress makes its debut and Parisian couture had its moment on the big screens of Hollywood. Although today, we may not wear a black dress with diamonds to breakfast, I’m sure there are several people out there who were convinced to buy an LBD (little black dress for all the non-fashionistas), for an occasion a little fancier than coffee and croissants at 8 a.m.

We’ve all heard of the movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. It’s a classic! But let me ask you this, what’s the plot of the movie? Go ahead, I’ll wait... Can’t? I’m not surprised. Despite receiving five Oscar nominations, this film is only ever remembered for one little black dress, a string of pearls and Audrey Hepburn’s intricate up do. Today, you’ll see several women wearing a black dress because it’s a go-to outfit. You can dress it up or dress it down. But in the 60’s it was considered the height of fashion.

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MARY POPPINS

I’ve got to be honest; you won’t catch me wearing this outfit daily. While I love this iconic look and think it suits the character perfectly, fashion trends today are a little more modern. However, if you take the long black coat away from the top hat and umbrella, it’s one of the most popular items in clothing stores today. On a cold winter’s day, there’s nothing better than staying warm with a coat and looking stylish at the same time, but who knew Poppins would be the one to get there first?

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The thing I’ve always been jealous of is her magical bag. For those who don’t know, there’s nothing she can’t fit in her bag – literally! At one point in the movie, she pulls out a floor lamp from her bag that’s not much bigger than a pillow. If only that bag was real. We’ve all been there when we have just one too many things to put in our tiny little shoulder bags... it isn’t great, but hey, the things we do for fashion.


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We’ve had Barbie’s cowboy co-ord, Mean Girls’ “On Wednesdays we wear pink” and even Professor Umbridge’s power outfit in Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix, but it all started with Elle Woods’ iconic pink suit. If I had to recite the history of the colour pink, it would start with this film that premiered 22 years ago. In the film, pink is more than just a symbol of femininity, or portraying Elle as the stereotype of a Malibu Barbie. The exaggerated femininity of Elle Woods is used to portray the view society has on stereotypical pretty women and how they are dismissed at first glance, underlining that yes Reese Witherspoon is stunning, but there’s more to Elle than what reaches the surface.

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When I first watched this film 10 years ago, I was obsessed with her outfits and of course the iconic ‘bend and snap’, but in truth, there is more to the movie, and I was too naïve to realise that. In truth, Elle balances her femininity and her love for fashion with her career in a dominantly male industry. By breaking these barriers and kicking ass in the courtroom, Elle showed all women that we can do anything without compromising who we are.

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There’s no denying that the character Hermione Granger played by Emma Watson is just drop-dead stunning. As a curly-haired brunette girl, I spent a lot of my childhood wondering why all the main female characters in movies or TV shows had long straight hair. It’s as though in the early 2000s, women with curly hair weren’t considered attractive. However, Hermione proved otherwise. Yes, she was the best in class, hung around with boys and was considered a tough girl, especially having been put into numerous dangerous situations (thanks Harry). But that doesn’t mean she couldn’t have her moment to shine.

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When Hermione attended the Yule Ball in a gorgeous pink, frilly dress (something rather unusual for the character), it was the first moment her classmates looked at her as being a girl, and a rather pretty one at that. This dress is arguably one of the best looks in the franchise.

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I’m not ashamed to say it, I am completely in love with this film. Whether you prefer the first or second movie more, there’s one thing we can all agree on – we want to live that life. I wish I could have it all. From the stunning scenery to the perfect summer outfits, including the men fighting over me (love you, Sam). There’s just something about the movies that gives off a fun and loving vibe, making all the viewers feel a part of the drama. I have been inspired by the fashion in the movie since I first watched it.

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The 70’s disco glam paired with the island chic is hard to balance, but somehow, they manage it. Okay, so Donna’s blue dungarees are iconic, but I want to talk about Donna and the Dynamo’s outfits. The flared jumpsuits covered in glitter are everything! It’s giving disco, it’s giving glamour, its giving dancing queen. So maybe it’s not the best thing to wear to the club, but I can definitely find a reason to wear it... is it too much for a first date?

Sex and the city

Carrie Bradshaw is without a doubt one of the most iconic characters in the history of TV. Finding love is hard, but finding a love that beats her love for fashion is harder. This is tested in the first movie of the popular TV show, where Carrie is left alone at the altar by her fiancé Mr. Big. Yes, this was a terrible thing, but at least she was standing in the most gorgeous Vivienne Westwood wedding gown.

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Proving a major hit with the fans, the dress had become so popular, that a cocktail dress was made inspired by the iconic gown and was sold on Net-APorter for £4,530! Selling out within hours of being released on the website, it was clear that Bradshaw had done it again. Thousands of women were influenced by the character bold style and fashion statements and has continued to inspire us since her first debut on the show in 1998.


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Most girls want to be Cinderella and dance the night away with a prince in glass heels (they sound so uncomfortable btw). Some want to be Snow White and experience true love’s kiss (even though she’s literally lying in a coffin guys). But I have always wanted Belle. This isn’t because of the sexy prince and not because of Gaston (although I do love the actor, Luke Evans). No, this was because of her astonishing gowns. I love her yellow ball gown, which is unusual because yellow isn’t my colour, but the voluminous draped material and gold lace make me believe I won’t look like a lemon tart in it.

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The yellow gown is gorgeous, but the white dress at the end of the movie is everything I’ve dreamed of. Belle wears a delicate white gown covered in floral appliques, paired with floral heels, finished with her hair in an updo and a beautiful floral hair comb. Wedding gown designers were inspired by this, and now one of the most popular wedding dress trends is to have sewn flowers into your veil. I don’t care if I never find my prince, just let me wear this dress once and I’ll have my happy ending.

bridgerton

Since being released in 2020, people have been raving about the show’s outfits. The mix of cottage core and sexy boudoir dressing may not be quite accurate to the 19th-century high society fashion trends, but the modern take on regency style adds to the idyllic storyline. The show’s outfits were so popular that new trends rose, and before we knew it, puff sleeve dresses, floral tops and midi skirts were at the top of all our search histories. People introduced regency flair into their wardrobes by wearing breezy dresses around the house and out on the town. We started seeing more and more floral smock dresses and pastelcoloured tops on shopping sites – there was something for everyone.

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The greatest thing about the show’s costumes, is that each character had their own style and colour, reflecting their personalities and even differentiating families. The Bridgertons wear blues and whites representing their purity and delicacy, while the Sharma family wear purples and deep pinks incorporating the family’s cultural background into their outfits, and then the Featheringtons wear bracingly bright colours indicating their outsider status in society. The costume designers thought of everything and there’s no denying that whatever costumes the characters will wear in the upcoming third season, they will be just as amazing.

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s a h w l a e id y d o b d r a d n a ? d e g n a By Olivia Withers

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Having and maintaining the ‘perfect body’ is something many women have always struggled with, including myself. Looking in the mirror and wishing your bum was like Kim K’s or your waist was more cinched, yet only a couple of decades earlier, you’d probably be wishing for different things, depending on what’s popular at the time. Which influencers are trending on social media helps decipher what we ‘wish’ we looked like. With thousands of workout videos online, weight loss supplements and celebrities idolising standards that are often unattainable, it’s hard to believe that your body is just right. As influencers come and go, we see different body shapes and sizes being complimented and criticised. So, what really is the ideal body standard of today? The 20s were all about straight lines, small breasts and small hips. The flapper girl wore short dresses, hair cut into a bob and wore bras that made their boobs smaller. With this came many eating disorders, as this body type reinforced the idea that women need to be skinny to be attractive. Cigarette brand, Lucky Strike, had one of the biggest advertisements of the 20s, plastering posters with the statement, “To keep a slender figure no one can deny, reach for a Lucky instead of a sweet”. Many famous film stars at the time promoted this and endorsed the slogan, promoting smoking as a way to lose weight for years.

“the body is meant to be seen, not all covered up.”

- Marilyn Monroe

The glam in the 30s to 50s decided it was all about curves, big boobs and that hourglass figure we see today. Only a decade later, we’re seeing the complete opposite of what was popular in the 20s, which of course was difficult for women to change their bodies again, especially if their body wasn’t built to have wider hips or larger boobs. Girls looked up to bombshell actresses, like Marilyn Monroe who had curves in the perfect places but still having slender arms and faces. Monroe was also an advocate for accentuating curves and showing off your body, saying, “the body is meant to be seen, not all covered up.” By the 60s, you guessed it, more change was happening! This decade adored an androgynous and willowy, slender body type. With models and fashion icons, such as Twiggy and Audrey Hepburn, the media was, even back then, still portraying a ‘perfect body’ type. This meant being slim and having a very young look. Admissions to hospitals with anorexia nervosa spiked and doctors began to specialise in these disorders. This was also enhanced by the counterculture movement, an alternative approach to life, promoting drug use, love and peace and a change of identity. Still being hard for women to keep up with, considering only years before women wanted a completely different body shape, fueling diet culture even more.

Y D O B I T I POS Fitness and aerobic culture incoming! The 80s were full of spandex, funky-coloured leg warmers and sweatbands. Women wanted to be slim and tall like previous decades, but in an athletic way, with slight muscular definition. Oh, and small waists were still all the craze. Music videos such as ‘Physical’ by Olivia Newton-John winning a Grammy Award for Video of the Year in 1983, made fitness more popular, showing the 80s was a time to take care of your body and to live healthily by eating well and doing exercise. Kate Moss, supermodels, being ultra-thin and ‘heroin chic’. The 90s and early 2000s idolised a very thin,long-legged body type and women who might not have wanted this, still conformed to this figure. Cosmetic procedures were growing rapidly due to this ideal body standard for those who wanted it, for example, liposuction was well developed, which was a popular way to lose weight, especially if you had the money to do so. 2010s powered the decade of the hourglass, once again. Influencers and celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Nicki Minaj meant young girls were wanting an unachievable slim waist and wide hips. Personally, I have wanted two completely different body shapes through the two decades I have lived in. From the thigh gap, which trended in my early teens on social media platforms, such as Tumblr and Instagram, to wanting a skinny waist and wide hips, seen today. Not only is it virtually impossible for women to achieve shapes that their bodies aren’t naturally built for, but it’s even harder when we see photoshopped images and filtered bodies that genuinely aren’t possible. Although the standards are probably higher than ever, they’ve gotten a lot easier to attain. A natural body shape has been popular in the 2020s. This means procedures aren’t about looking unrealistic, but enhancing natural beauty, such as anti-wrinkle or chemical peels for skin. With the growth of social media influencers and vloggers such as Molly Mae, who had her lip filler dissolved and is very open to the camera about her personal life, it is a lot easier to interact and find content that is more body positive than it used to be. Fitness influencers speak about having a healthy and active lifestyle in a way that doesn’t match the workout videos that promoted a thigh gap in 5 minutes or a tiny waist in 30. Instead, there are a lot more meditation, running and self-love videos online. If there is one thing I could say to my younger self, I would tell her that she is still so young, still growing and the standards she sees online aren’t always going to be possible, body and lifestyle-wise.

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Y T I V I

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Music Nostalgia 30


Taking a trip down memory lane by Chloe Boulton

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ooking back and reminiscing at my own music through the different decades, I tap onto the Spotify app and look at the array of playlists on my home screen; what music am I in the mood for today? A chill mix? An upbeat mix? Maybe a throwback mix? I tap on one that I fancy, put my earbuds in and I start my day. Music influences our lives on a daily basis. We all have that dedicated playlist for each aspect of our life, whether you’re at the gym, studying for an exam, or getting ready for a night out, there’s always something ready for me to listen to depending on what I am doing. Admittedly, I am one of such people who have at least 25 playlists on their Spotify with nearly every genre of music on there. You will never see me without an earbud in one ear listening to something. Making a playlist is what I enjoy doing when I have a free moment; especially if it’s for an

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occasion such as New Year’s Eve or a birthday coming up. It’s very obvious I spend quite a reasonable amount of time listening to music when I look at my Spotify Wrapped at the end of every year and see the thousands of minutes I have accumulated… maybe a bit too much! Growing up I was always listening to my parent’s music when they had it on in the house filling the kitchen with noise and as I have gotten older, it has become a lot of what I listen to now and definitely influenced my playlists. I remember sitting in my dad’s car when I was little, listening to AC/DC, Journey, or Tears for Fears, artists both my parents love from their teen years in the 80s, and I would complain and want him to switch it over. But now, I sing along to a lot of these songs, which surprises him, honestly, so then he loves to tell me that he ‘taught me well’ with my music taste, though I defensively deny this. 


On the other hand, despite them both sharing an appreciation for Bryan Adams, I remember a lot of mum’s music being Scouting for Girls, Phil Collins or Bill Withers, as I looked and rummaged through her collection of albums in the side pocket of the car door when it was the school rush in the mornings. Such a core memory of mine. The first CD I ever owned was either a Christmas or birthday present when I got my first pink CD player when I was 8 or 9. It was the Sugababes latest album, I remember being so excited and I felt so grown up. Thinking back now when I hear the same songs by chance it gives me such a nostalgic feeling, though at the same it kind of makes me feel so old! Even though in reality it’s not really that old at all. When you’re at a bar or in a club and you hear different songs from different decades throughout the night and you hear everyone sing along with them- sounds cringey I

know - you feel a sense of togetherness and familiarity. You might wonder how everyone came to know all these different songs. Was it from films they’ve watched? Their own family members? Or a sound that gained popularity on TikTok, even? ABBA, Mr Brightside, or S Club 7 always seem to be the classic hits with everyone belting out the chorus on the dancefloor. It doesn’t matter what music you listen to or what you grew up with, if you have the whole Bee Gees collection on your phone, who cares? Music is what makes you happy within yourself and what you want to sing or dance to, whatever time of day it is. 

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Defining the decades through music

By Daisy Bodkin

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1960s

This has to be the easiest one. There could be no other answer than The Beatles. They were and still are to this day the most influential band there has ever been. Their music was ground breaking, no one at the time had heard anything like it. They pushed boundaries and started a musical revolution, going hand in hand with a movement in the sixties that saw young people starting to rebel; experimenting more with music, art, fashion drugs and sexual promiscuity ‘Beatlemania’ was a cultural phenomenon with fans screaming and fainting at the sight of any of the four members. The Beatles inspired future artists such as Elton John, The Arctic Monkeys and even Lady Gaga. This band will no doubt forever be a household name. Top 3 songs - ‘Something’ , ‘Don’t Let Me Down’, ‘Hey Jude’

1970s The 70s had some exceptional artists with the likes of The Rolling Stones, Bee Gees and David Bowie however for me Fleetwood Mac claims the number one position . With their music still regularly being played by younger generations and their band also inspiring the popular show ‘Daisy Jones and The Six”, Fleetwood Mac are proving to be timeless. Not only was it their music but also the turbulent relationship between bandmates Stevie Nicks and Lindsey Buckingham that kept fans captivated. One of their most renowned performances shows Nicks singing their song ‘Silver Springs’ whilst staring into Buckinghams soul after years of them being broken up. It’s enough to give anyone chills. Top 3 songs- ‘Dreams’, ‘Think about me’, ‘Rhiannon’

1980s

The 1980s was a time of colorful fashion, big hair and groovy dance music. Pop artists, such as Madonna and Whitney Houston, were massively on the rise. However, in my opinion, it’s a more melancholic band that deserves top spot. The Smiths are one of the most popular and critically acclaimed English bands of the eighties. Morrisey, despite having some controversial opinions, was a lyrical genius who paired up sad, emotive song lyrics with upbeat catchy tunes. The Smiths brought a very alternative vibe to the eighties music scene and have had a lasting legacy on the indie music genre. Top 3: ‘How Soon is Now?’, ‘Heaven Knows I’m Miserable Now’, ‘This Charming Man’

1990s

Britpop was a genre of music that dominated the 90’s. Bands blended rock and pop and often wrote about British life. It’s thought that britpop was a reaction against the grunge culture that was blowing up in America at the time. A massive debate with britpop fans was whether you were more of a Blur fan or an Oasis fan, it’s a tough decision but Blur comes out on top for me. With their Fred Perry’s and cockney accents, Blur are the kings of British pub core. There’s not one indie night club that won’t end up in a sweaty moshpit breaking out when people hear the iconic ‘woo-hoooo’ in Song 2. Top 3 songs- ‘Beetlebum’, ‘Girls & Boys’, ‘The Narcissist’.

2000s

The greatest artist of the noughties has to be no other than the one and only Queen Bey. Beyonce was and still is an absolute powerhouse who embodies girl power and boss bitch energy. A self confessed but non apologetic diva, Beyonce has empowered fans all over the world. Despite describing herself as someone who is usually shy, as soon as she steps out on stage she becomes completely possessed by her alter ego ‘Sasha Fierce’. Not only has she had huge success as a solo artist but also with her group projects such as pre-solo career band Destiny’s Child and more recently her album with husband Jay-Z ‘The Carters’. Beyonce exuberates self confidence, something which can clearly be seen in her interview with Whoopi Goldberg who when speaking to her says ‘you are Beyonce’ , Beyonce’s response? ‘Thank You.’ Top 3 Songs- ‘Love on Top’ , ‘Drunk in Love’, ‘Irreplaceable’.

2010s

The 2010S saw a social media revolution with the tumblr hipster trend on the rise. When I think back to my 14 year old self, I think of tye-dye, Vine, Moustaches and Cheesy T-shirt saying things like ‘pugs not drugs’. My music taste largely revolved around boy bands such as One Direction and The Vamps however as time has gone on and my music taste has matured,I have to say that Lana del Rey has been the best artist to come out of this corny and slightly cringe era. Lana del Rey released the hauntingly beautiful album ‘Born to Die’ in 2012 and followed it with another outstanding album ‘Ultraviolence’ which was equally as chilling. Lana is the perfect artist to play late at night with candles lit and a glass of red wine. Her music has always been a perfect way to soothe the soul. Top 3 songs- ‘ Video Games’, ‘Cruel World’ , ‘Radio’

2020s Despite not being a huge fan of the more current artists, I find Little Simz to be a beacon of hope for this generation’s music scene. Probably the coolest artist I have had the pleasure to see live, her powerful and poetic words have struck a chord with many of her fans. She is a captivating performer, with both a commanding and strong yet also warming and humble presence. She often sings and raps about societal issues or her own personal problems, making her music both relatable and thought provoking. People have claimed her to be the ‘Lauryn Hill’ of this generation or the female ‘Kendrick Lamar’. A jack of all trades, Simz not only raps but she also acts in the popular Netflix series, ‘Top Boy’. Top 3 songs- ‘Gorilla’, ‘Point and KIll’, ‘Woman’

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SPORT THROUG THE DECADE 36


GH

ES By Harry Mockridge


Smoking cigarettes, bad hairstyles, cheaply made kits, and poorly made trophies. Sport has come on leaps and bounds in many aspects, not just the style of play. In 2023, football players are some of the biggest celebrities; and now they have to contend with social media, which can impact how they perform. Let’s take a dive into how the most popular sports have transformed through the decades. Smoking cigarettes, bad hairstyles, cheaply made kits, and poorly made trophies. Sport has come on leaps and bounds in many aspects, not just the style of play. In 2023, football players are some of the biggest celebrities; and now they have to contend with social media, which can impact how they perform. Let’s take a dive into how the most popular sports have transformed through the decades. It’s well documented that the 80s was notorious for fluorescent fashion, and baggy outfits for all— with football, this wasn’t far from that case. The Netherlands had an electric orange stripe that has been worn for decades, with people still trying to get their hands on the kit in 2023. Football kits from past decades are still fashionable now, if not even more fashionable due to many reasons. One of the many reasons why people wear retro football shirts is nostalgia.If you grew up watching your favourite team wearing these shirts, donning them yourself can remind you of the good old days. In many cases, a shirt’s appeal is determined by what happened on the pitch. Diego Maradona is one of the greatest players of all time, and enjoyed his best years in the 80s playing for teams such as FC Barcelona and Napoli (both in Italy), with the latter retiring his number 10 shirt in honour of how good he was for them. His club time isn’t what he is most notorious for though. The Argentine won the World Cup in 1986; but didn’t do so without scoring the most controversial goal in World Cup history. In the quarter final, Argentina faced England, and narrowly won 2-1. One goal was an absolute beauty, with Maradona dancing past several England players before rounding the keeper to score. However, the other goal wasn’t quite as aesthetic. The ball was put up into the air where Maradona went up to head the ball—

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but used his hand instead— with the ball ending up in the England goal. With the referee not having a great view, and not having the technology we have today, the goal stood, and England were knocked out of the World Cup. This is one of the most important goals in history, and is still talked about to this day. Tennis and basketball have grown immense amounts, with Wimbledon having 4.8M followers on Instagram, while the NBA has 84M followers. Current players for those sports are heavily influenced by players who were at the top of their game for that decade in terms of play style and their targets for what they want to achieve. For example, in the 80s we had McEnroe, Lendl and Wilander— who had the most grand slams ever between them in that period, with 20. For basketball, we saw the dominance of Larry Bird, Kareem AbdulJabbar, and Magic Johnson. Not to mention the emergence of a certain Michael Jordan, with a rookie of the year award in 1985. One sport that needed serious rejuvenation was golf. The 90s welcomed Tiger Woods, who has gone on to become one of the most prominent and successful names in the sport, with 82 wins at PGA tours, the joint most of all time. Another rising star, who firmly took control of his destiny, was Michael Jordan. The Chicago Bulls basketball superstar is known as the greatest player of all time, with five MVP awards— as well as being a six-time NBA champion. Donning a number 23 on his back, which is retired at three different teams, Jordan’s bald head with a beret on top, and cigar in his mouth is iconic, especially in the images after winning his final championship in 1998.a


He is also well known for helping make Nike the brand it is today. Since he started wearing the popular shoe, which is his namesake and was coloured certain colours against the NBA’s regulations, the shoe has seen unbelievable levels of popularity, potentially because of how good he was while wearing them. Jordan is in the NBA Hall of Fame, and is now worth $3 billion according to Forbes. 1992 saw the start of an infamous footballing career— David Beckham. The Englishman made his professional debut in 1992 for Manchester United crowning the end of the 90s decade with a European Cup in 1999, as part of a famous treble. He’s well known for being a style icon for football, notably because of his long-lasting marriage with Spice Girl, Victoria Beckham. The pair were regularly photographed and published in print, with Beckham in the newspaper almost daily. He is well renowned for changing the game of football, particularly in England, as he paved his career into the 2000s. From man buns to buzz cuts, Beckham has been known to change up his hair a lot, with players following his haircuts— like Jack Grealish with the curtains— and Papu Gomez, an Argentine footballer, who shaved his hair to ‘look like Beckham’, after he recently won the World Cup. Beckham also played for Real Madrid, as part of the ‘Galácticos’ team— which was a team filled full of the biggest superstars from all over the world— which desperately needed Beckham. Following Real Madrid, in 2007 Beckham joined LA Galaxy (in America) further expanding his brand, and becoming adored by Americans. Short stints in Milan, followed by a final season in Paris, Beckham retired at the age of 38, having left behind a professional and model legacy for decades to come. The year 2000 was monumental for the evolution of sport through the decades, as we were introduced to higher quality sports video games. The ‘PGA Tour Golf’ video game was renamed to ‘Tiger Woods PGA Tour’— with Tiger featuring on the front cover. For football, it was a choice of two big gaming options; with FIFA growing with improved graphics since it began in the 90s, and PES which was just behind FIFA in terms of quality. As years go on, more and more games are created, to the point where Esports have become a registered sport which you can even bet on. During the 2000s, women really started to gain the deserved credit for their sporting skills. Tennis sisters Serena and Venus Williams, had a well fought rivalry competing for the Wimbledon title year on year— and becoming one of the most infamous tennis doubles pairings of all time. The 2010s were arguably the most innovative years of all the decades, with the technological advances, and extreme increase of social media usage, which fundamentally changed how we all watch sport. Goal line technology was introduced in 2014, just before the football World Cup, which proved to be a huge success in safely helping the referee confirm

whether strikes were goals or not. However, since this was successful, ‘VAR’ has been released— which helps the referee with every decision. This has caused controversy, with many fans wanting their FA to scrap VAR— with some calls interfering with human decisions— and people saying that VAR makes the game too robotic. The 2010s also saw the introduction of two of the game’s greatest ever players, Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi. Battling together in the top Spanish division, their rivalry is one of the best— with each player trying to outdo the other. As of 2023, the two players have 13 Balon D’or awards, 9 European Cups, a World Cup trophy and many more. With the advertisement revenue increasing throughout the decade, the NFL half-time show was filled with loads of advertisements; with it costing $5.4 million towards the end of the 2010s, and over $7 million in 2023 to place a 30 second advertisement. Fighting in Mixed-martial arts and boxing grew tremendously in the 2010s, due to social media; with press conferences being posted on YouTube and gaining lots of views, especially the UFC. Fighters such as Conor McGregor, Tyson Fury and Anthony Joshua have become very popular due to being able to talk against their opponent, and back it up by usually winning their bouts. As the decades go on, more opportunities arrive in different countries— like Saudi Arabia, where the highest bidder usually gets the best fighters. The 2020s was a strange start for sport, due to the Covid pandemic. Seasons were cancelled, players retired, and distress was caused for the future of all sports. The 2022 World Cup caused a lot of controversy with it being held in Qatar, where there were no suitable football stadiums, and unfair playing conditions due to the temperatures. Explayers such as Gary Neville and David Beckham were famously involved, with David being an ambassador for a rumoured £125 million, and Gary publicly slamming the World Cup being held in the Middle East— but then going out to commentate on matches. In 2023, the England Women’s Football Team finished runner up in the World Cup to Spain, after winning the European Championship just two years prior. This shows just how far the women’s game has come, since women didn’t even have a World Cup until 1991. We can expect more popularity, as it has grown to an already popular sport now in 2023. We can expect more change in the coming decades, with new superstars coming out in terms of ability, and becoming a model for future generations. Hopefully this includes the rising popularity of women in sport, as there have been some greats, and we should look forward to many more in the coming decades also.u

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Remembering The Roots Of Running Running has always been around. From the hunter-gatherers to the very first modern-day Olympic marathon in 1896 (for men only ofcourse). However, running for “fun” has not always been around.In fact, it wasn’t until the 1970s that running recreationally was not considered ‘suspicious activity’ that could get you stopped by the police. Vox states, “In 1968, Strom Thurmond found himself stopped by a police officer in Greenville, South Carolina. His suspicious activity? Jogging.” And it wasn’t until even later that it became acceptable for women to do so as well – quelle surprise! Words: Iona Leaf

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1960s

1970s

Running in the 60s was still mostly, if not only, performed by professional athletes and nothing new in the competitive running world was introduced until 1960. The 1960 Summer Paralympics introduced Men’s Pentathlon, but it wasn’t until the 1968 Paralympic games when the women’s pentathlon was introduced. The Boston Marathon, founded in 1897, was strictly a ‘Men Only Club’ until 1966 when Roberta (Bobbi) Gibb became the first woman to run the entire thing. When Gibbs went to sign up for the event, she was turned away by the race’s director who had the audacity to think women weren’t physiologically capable of running a marathon. In spite of this, not only did she complete the race, but she also completed it quicker than two-thirds of the runners. It wasn’t until the late 1960s that running for “fun” started due to a post-World War II trend of health oriented physical activities and diets, such as my grandfather’s absolutely disgusting habit of juicing apple and beetroot.

There was somewhat of a ‘Running Boom’ in the 1970s when it became less suspicious and more commonplace. In 1972, women were officially allowed to compete in the Boston Marathon and in 1975, women in the UK were given permission to run at the marathon distance (aka further than the previously allowed 6km). Ridiculous, I know. What is even more ridiculous is the fact that the first ‘sports bra’ wasn’t created until 1977 - up until then women wore their everyday bra *ouch* and before that, they wore what is known as an ‘athletic corset’ which were not the most ergonomic devices. This decade of the “running boom” was accompanied by a “sportswear boom” for both men and women; specialised running shoes were in major production, and running apparel grew to accommodate demand.


1980s

1990s

The “running boom” continued into the 80s. In the 1984 Summer Olympics, the women’s marathon was introduced, and Joan Benoit’s victory inspired even more women to run. According to Andy Kirkpatrick, ‘The Race Vest, a pre-history,’ was created around 1985, and has been an absolute gamechanger for many runners.

By the 1990s, running recreationally was mainstream and there was a continuous increase in the participation of organised races. In 1996 the C25K (Couch to 5k) running plan was created by Josh Clark and has been used by aspiring runners ever since. I think it’s vitally important to mention that Lululemon was founded in 1998, and I think we can all agree that running in cute leggings and running tops makes it a much more enjoyable experience.

2000s

2010s

2001 brought about the introduction of Apple’s original iPod, doing what no Walkman or Discman had done before, apparently. In 2009, the popular running shoe and apparel brand Hoka was founded and completely changed the aesthetic of running for generations to come.

In April 2016 the UKA Rules of Competition banned ‘the wearing of headphones, or similar devices’ during road races, which would absolutely put me off. Thankfully, even though I will never ever run it, the London marathon does permit headphones.

2000s Whether recreationally or training for athletic events, it seems almost everyone is running nowadays. It’s not uncommon to spot joggers everywhere during all hours of the day. Depending on what your TikTok algorithm is, running is the new trend; from the inexperienced-but-want-to-get-into-it runners to the run-100-miles-through-the-Appalachians-withme runners.

It will be interesting to see where the running world goes next, but maybe we can start with making the world a safer place for the girls who want to run in the dark.

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50

years of women’s tennis It’s been 50 years since the formation of the Women’s Tennis Association, spearheaded by the indomitable Billie Jean King who brought about irreversible change within the sport. Every female tennis player today has their predecessors to thank for the vast improvements to tour conditions. Still, five decades on from the crux of the revolution, it is difficult to claim that tennis has achieved true equality. By Ciara Hancox

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T

ennis looked rather different in the 70s compared to the Wimbledon you might tune into on TV now. Picture wooden rackets, wire-framed glasses and mullets galore. Picture a French Open where women only got paid if they made the fourth round. The same French Open where legendary winner Margaret Court won less than a third of the prize money than Jan Kodes won for his men’s single triumph. It wasn’t just the French; all four grand slams on the calendar boasted women’s singles prize pots that were, at best, half the size of those given to the men’s singles events. It was 1970 when a group of players known as the ‘Original 9’ broke away from the main women’s tennis tour to form their own, which prospered in the years that followed. Of course, this only heightened tensions between the competing circuits at the time, but no governing body could consider itself a match for the formidable Billie Jean King. Only she could take one step further and make it look easy. Setting up a meeting with over 50 female professional tennis players in London during the build-up to Wimbledon 1973, King emerged victorious as the founder and newly elected president of the WTA, uniting the tours and creating what is still the principal organising body of women’s tennis today. Oh, and she won the Wimbledon singles, doubles and mixed doubles titles just two weeks later as well. No big deal. Fast forward ten years and Martina Navratilova is the name on everyone’s lips. Winning three of the year’s four grand slam singles titles in 1983, she took home a huge $1,456,030 during the season. It was only ten years prior that Margaret Court achieved the same number of slams and only won just over $200,000 in the year. The growth was exponential. Navratilova and King both faced challenges in the early 80s that went far beyond tennis, they were outed within three months of each other and faced dire repercussions. King lost her wealth of sponsors and soon players were being offered cash incentives if they agreed to out fellow players to various news outlets. Both handled the unacceptable media attention that followed in very different ways: whilst Navratilova had no issue with speaking her mind regardless of the consequences, King struggled to talk openly about her sexuality for years, and her subsequent honesty about this struggle has had a profound impact of its own. Today’s women’s tour boasts many openly gay players, but interestingly, there are no such players in the elite levels of men’s tennis. They have yet to benefit from pioneers such as King and Navratilova to pave the way for progress and, ultimately, acceptance. Women’s tennis skyrocketed in popularity and acclaim during the 1990s. Several players ascended to star status, their consistency ensuring that they made headlines just as often as the men did, perhaps for the first time. Monica Seles played a part in this, winning her first French Open in 1990 at only 16 years old. As did the opponent she beat, Steffi Grafl, who had emerged as the dominant force in tennis in the late 80s, winning the coveted calendar slam in 1988. The two went on to contest six slam finals, winning three each.

Sport at its best is a story, one with heroes, villains, great triumph and sometimes even greater loss. These narratives keep people on the edge of their seats, just as much as blistering 35-stroke rallies. With the emergence of the infamous Williams sisters in the early 2000s, there continued to be a number of prominent characters for fans to root for and against. Whilst the US Open made history as the first slam to offer equal prize money to men and women (with legendary Billie Jean King to thank once again), it wasn’t until 2007, 34 years later, that Wimbledon and Roland Garros made the same decision. They found themselves under enormous pressure from both the WTA and a determined Venus Williams, who had published a damning essay in The Times where she branded Wimbledon as being on “the wrong side of history”. With how quickly the tournaments seemed to change course, they must have agreed with her. Venus was the first to benefit from her own activism, winning Wimbledon in 2007 and earning the same £700,000 as men’s singles champion Roger Federer. It brings us to the current state of play. Even though all four slams offer equal prize money, the same cannot be said for the rest of the tournaments in the calendar. The fact is that tennis still has a vast gender pay gap that hasn’t yet been solved and with men and women playing the same three-set matches in all tournaments other than slams, there really is no excuse. The 2023 Italian Open, for example, offered a total prize pot of €7.7 million for the men’s draw, but just €3.5 million for the women. The WTA has been under fire from its players for many issues this year. Their declaration of commitment to equal prize money at 500 and 1000 point events by 2027 was not met with the positivity they may have expected. Their press release brushed over the new ‘player entry’ rules they will introduce next year that will create a new wave of mandatory tournaments. Players such as Iga Swiatek, current world number 2, have spoken out against these changes claiming the WTA isn’t “taking care of [players’] wellbeing and health”. Forcing the top players to play more to boost the consistency of top players in finals is an oxymoron. With the injuries that this schedule is likely to bring about, it’s unlikely to provide the boost to the tour’s commercial viability that they’re hoping for. It will take new voices to challenge the tour officials and ensure both male and female players are treated and paid fairly. Billie Jean King fought fiercely for the transformation her era needed to see, Venus Williams later did the same: it remains to be seen who the driving voice of change for this generation of players will be. u

It was this dominance of the best few players in the world that added great value to the women’s game; a consistency that meant big finals were more often than not a battle of the best players in the world rankings. In contrast, Wimbledon has had nine different winners in its last ten women’s finals.

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Celebrity Culture: 44

How have celebrities changed since the 190

By Bethan croft


00s?

“Social media has allowed a direct engagement between celebrities and fans, allowing many to see daily insights into the lives of their idols.”

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he definition of what it means to be a celebrity has changed over the years. Originally, the status of a celebrity meant being well-known and held in high regard by people. Now, the definition has become a lot more specific and is determined by public interest and mainly media attention. The Oxford Dictionary defines a celebrity as ‘someone in the public eye who, for better or worse, has earned fame or infamy, or found renown or scandal, as a consequence of some act or supposed quality, and is celebrated as a result.’ When you look at some of the most famous stars of the 21st century, the methods leading to their fame are certainly questionable – we all know how Kim Kardashian became famous, yet she now has a net worth of $1.7 billion. So, how did celebrity culture change so much over time? Back in the 1900s some of the most famous celebrities were the likes of Charlie Chaplin and Marilyn Monroe. Yet their rise to fame wasn’t because they had reached 500k views on TikTok or because they had gone viral online. They became global sensations because people watched them on cinema screens, digested newspaper and magazine (or comic) content. However, in the 2000s we don’t have to anticipate new releases because at the click of a button, we can binge watch a whole series and the glamour of watching films at the cinema is seen as retro and beginning to fizzle away. The screens we see most celebrity content on now, are our phones, whether that is through watching trending videos, reading latest news articles, photoshoots broadcasted online or even leaked content. So, I think it is fair to say that the cause of changes in celebrity culture is due to the rise of social media. In fact, according to Mintel Press Centre, 28% of Gen Z users consider themselves as influencers or content creators. With the obsession to keep up with everything that is going on due to the very human fear of missing out, a whole generation of ‘small-scale’ celebrities has been created. We know everything that these creators do, what their skincare routine is, what they eat, their Starbucks order, where they live, their family drama… and quite frankly if I was a celebrity, I’d find that whole ordeal overwhelmingly scary.

There is also the rise of short-term celebs – these celebrities become viral during a trend and get all of the perks of being famous for a little while before the hype dies and they become forgotten about. Some may remember Ollie Ball and his friend Jacob, the duo received fame after becoming a sensational hit on TikTok after jokingly reviewing food and drink, with the iconic phrase “It’s-Ollie-Ball-hereee.”(PS I know you just read that in his voice.) Since then, Ollie has reached 416k followers on Instagram and the pair have taken part in many brand partnerships, and yet despite most of the younger generation knowing who they are just by the mention of their names, they are no longer relevant to current trends. With fame building so fast, it is hard to keep within the algorithm and this is a struggle that leads to the downfall of many short-term celebrities. Yet despite the fact that brands are practically forcing promotions down our neck via social media partnerships with these influencers, and the obvious invasion of privacy into the lives of such celebrities, the influence of social media hasn’t been all that bad. These platforms allow for an increased visibility for aspiring artists, we never would have heard from some singers who made their career debut online; Shawn Mendes became famous due to a label finding covers of him singing on vine. Social media has allowed a direct engagement between celebrities and fans, allowing many to see daily insights into the lives of their idols. This also ensures that celebrities have more control over their public image (although rumours can be so easily made that lots of celebrities choose to have staff manage their online accounts.) Having such a wide variety of social platforms has also facilitated the formation of online fandoms, but that’s a whole new complicated topic. From innocent fandoms to full-fledged written fanfics of band members (including Anna Todd using Harry Styles as inspiration for her series After – and rumours of Harry possibly having a restraining order against her?) In the end, there are many arguments about whether the influence of social media upon celebrity culture is positive, but one thing is clear - celebrity or not, social media is a platform for every user to have the capability to express their authentic selves.u

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tion: A

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illiams


Womanhood is my Mother’s Watch

By Carrie Foley

My first experience of makeup was from watching my mother get ready. Her first experience was from watching hers. I wonder how many generations that knowledge goes back -- how many women with my eyes and my crooked nose spent their childhoods sitting on the floor beside their mother’s vanity, watching her apply mascara? How many women with my face snuck into her mother’s makeup bag when she was gone and tried, clumsily, to put mascara on themselves?

Femininity has not always felt like ‘my own’. I’m not sure when I stopped feeling like a little girl playing with her mother’s makeup and when I started feeling like a capital-W woman, but I’m glad for the peace it has brought. For most of my teenage years I felt rather a lot like a little girl with red lipstick smeared Joker-style across my face, likeeveryone could see that I didn’t fit. But these days I see my mother, and her mother, and her mother’s mother, in myself. I see generations of women who knew how to hold themself smiling back at me in the mirror. I wear my mother’s watch. When I was a child and we were walking hand-inhand through Sunday markets, I would admire it on her wrist. I would listen for her bracelets clinking against it and smell the Gucci perfume on her skin beneath the band and I would know that she possessed a sort of grace that I would daydream about someday having even a glimpse of. I was a sticky-fingered little kid with leaves in my hair and grass-stains on my jeans and womanhood was only a fantasy.

To be truthful I still often feel like that little kid, but now I wear the watch and Maison Margiela perfume and that has to count for something What did my mother’s mother give her? What was her mark of womanhood? My grandmother wears gold jewellery and my mother wears silver like me, but there is a gold necklace in her jewellery box. On long Saturday afternoons I sit and look at the forgotten pieces, and I wonder what the story behind each one is. I wonder how old the metal is, how many years my mother spent wearing it around her neck before a new piece came along. How many are heirlooms? How many are gifts? How many mark anniversaries, or new chapters, or the end of old ones? They were all her favourite once and I long to know who she was before me. I think it comes down to one thing: to be loved is to be immortal. I wear my mother’s watch because my mother wore her mother’s necklace, who wore hers, who wore hers, who wore hers. I arrange my perfumes just so on my vanity because that’s how my mother displays hers, because her mother did, because her mother did, because her mother did. To be a woman is to love, and be loved, and to carry generations of women who loved with you. To allow myself to lean into my own womanhood feels like a love letter to my child self, sitting on my mother’s bedroom floor with streaks of lipstick across my cheeks. It feels like letting her know that she has made it -- she is every bit the woman she daydreamed about becoming. 

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