plus size clothing: What are brands getting wrong?

By Ashleigh Poole

‘Inclusivity’ is a token phrase

The word ‘Inclusivity’ is thrown around by every brand these days, with an aim to make themselves more woke. It’s vital for brands to meet expectations for a wide range of body types, and that’s unquestionable. However, the majority of fashion brands are simply catching on because the movement makes the brand look good. Plus-size isn’t a trend, it’s a body type. The average woman in the UK is a size 16, and Urban Outfitters doesn’t even offer this size in every piece. Yes, it offers an XL in a few select pieces which they ‘claim’ is an 18 (a very ill-fitting, much-too-small 18 if you ask any bigger woman). Yet, the first item on the new-in section of its website, a trendy denim skirt, goes all the way up to… size 32, a UK 14. Moreover, they only introduced a size XL in 2017, and this is one of the fashion world’s biggest brands. When the average size is a 16, this isn’t good enough, never mind not even catering for anyone above a medium in most of their items.

The perfect fit

Don’t get me wrong, it’s so great that brands are introducing plus sizes to their clothing lines to accommodate curvier people, but there’s something most of them aren’t getting right. Usually, a piece of clothing is made to fit a certain size. These clothes are then made in exactly the same fit, but bigger. A size 8 body isn’t the same as a plus size one – curves and proportions come into play, and so many fashion brands forget this. They need to take different shapes into consideration. This inevitably leaves plus size clothes with an unflattering fit. Instead, this could be solved by creating a design based on a model that’s the same size as the consumer the attire is made for. This would result in proportionate clothing, making people feel so much more confident.

More fabric, more money

It’s a fact that bigger clothes are going to use more fabric and resources. So, many brands reason that their lack of plus clothing and higher prices are rational. This is damaging in so many ways. Brands don’t charge more for tall ranges and it won’t cost someone who wears a size 10 more than someone who wears a size 6 to sport the exact same t-shirt. So why should plus size people pay more? There are even a whole host of brands who have written off the possibility of introducing bigger clothing options, because of this cost. Yet, oversized garments take up the majority of their ‘bestsellers’ page – if you can sell a size 20 blazer to someone who’s a size 8, why can’t you sell a size 20 blazer for a size 20 person? New Look came under fire in 2018 for selling the exact same pair of trousers at 15% more than their main collection in their plus size range. If the reason is down to using more fabric, wouldn’t the pricing issue influence tall and maternity collections? Even trouser lengths don’t impact prices, a 30” trouser will always cost the same as a 28”. If this was truly the reason, clothing would rise cumulatively in price. We can do better. The progressiveness of fashion inclusivity is clear and many brands are beginning to pave the way for others to follow, but we still have progress to make. Straight-sized bodies are still the ideal for the fashion industry – just take a look at the catwalk. Everyone deserves to be able to flaunt the latest trends in clothes that flatter and fit, and it shouldn’t come at this price.

The issue with plus size styles

Sure, there are a range of brands out there with their own plus size ranges, take ASOS for example. It dedicates a whole section of its website to catering for curvier people with clothing made to fit. Of course, it’s wonderful that brands are choosing this option, although it should be a given in a world where plus size women make up 68% of shoppers. You might think these bigger ranges have solved the issue here, but there’s still a major problem. Curvier people want the same stylish options, not a baggy jumper that hides their bodies. Why shouldn’t the same pieces be accessible for different body types, and when they rarely are, why can’t they just fit? Bold patterns and cute crops are all the trend, which makes it so much more disappointing when these styles aren’t catered to in plus size fashion. There’s always been a misconception that’s masked through ‘advice’ for plus size people: ‘You should wear darker tones, opt for loose fits and baggier clothing. Never wear horizontal stripes.’ This is harmful guidance and completely counteracts the body positivity movement, to be frank. It’s fine if this is of personal preference, but this shouldn’t be the only option. Everyone should be able to opt for fashionable pieces, not just basics. Curvy women want to wear fun, sexy and trendy styles too. Is this too much to ask?