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Linking both sexes in a world of contemporary fashion, lifestyle and photography
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Introduction Contributors Link Lust List Rose Wash W h i t e o u t Dark Vestiges Cocktail Hour S t r a t a . Ti g e r l i l y A Refined Gentleman Faux Couture Image Credits Apparel Credits
Contents
Elizabeth Champ, Editor ‘How only certain people can peel back certain layers in other personalities’
What do you think of upon hearing the word ‘layers’?
Conceal or reveal. Cover a secret, shine a new light, and unveil a hidden aspect. Creative layers strongly inspire this edition of Link. Play with soft pink acetate, graphic illustrations, cut-out windows and tracing paper. An interactive structure has been created, each sheet an integral stratum. Influencing our photography, materials and even our monthly cocktail recipe, the urge to discover what lies beneath will take over from here on.
Introduction
Contributors
Hayley Jade Browne, Artist ‘Photoshop; a build up of layers.’
Helena Roots, Lifestyle Writer ‘Lots of different elements of something, that when together create a whole
Dana Ali, Creative Assistant ‘When a person is perceived as being deep, and possessing hidden inner layers’
Jazzino Tamani, Fashion Writer ‘Fur, wool, leather and tartan. The more the merrier!’
Heather Barrass, Creative Assistant ‘Slate, how it layers itself’
Chelsea Smith, Illustrator ‘Mixed media collages’W
Contributors
Dedicated Turntable iPhone 4 Case; Urban Outfitters; £20
Yard-O-Led Pen Writing Bureau; John Lewis; £215
D.L. & CO Skull Candle; Selfridges; £80.00
Scrabble Cushion; Dot Maison; £20 each
Link Lust List
Anorak Kissing Stags Mug; John Lewis; £10
Shirt ; A garment for the upper body made of cloth, with a collar, sleeves, and buttons down the front.
White ; The achromatic color of maximum lightness; the color of objects that reflect nearly all light of all visible wavelengths
White Out
A sunny afternoon in Rome, a delicate young woman can be seen peering into a hairdressers. Her hair is traditional and her dress is conservative. The petite female wears a white shirt buttoned up to the neck, with long full sleeves bright in the sunshine. Her shirt is tucked into her high-waisted midi skirt, full with pleats and accentuating her miniscule waistline. She glances down the street before stepping into the hairdressers and out of sight. Who is that beautifully stylish young woman? It is of course Audrey Hepburn (or Princess Anne should we say), who made the white shirt fashionable after her appearance in fifties film ‘Roman Holiday’.
For women, it was Coco Chanel who took the lead and ditched her corset for a loose collared white shirt. With the women’s workforce expanding post World War Two, the simple piece started to cement itself in women’s wardrobes. Looking back over the last century, the white shirt has resurfaced countless times in popular culture.
For a garment that was introduced centuries ago, the white shirt has done exceptionally well. Ever since Marie Antoinette donned a long white muslin shirt for a portrait in 1793 (which of course caused a Parisian scandal) the statement piece has gone from strength to strength. By the end of the 19th century the shirt was a strong symbol of wealth; those who wore it did not work, and therefore did not need to be concerned about staining the snowy white fabric.
A staple that has underpinned men’s, women’s and children’s wardrobes for years, and has evolved as time has passed. Will the white shirt ever fall out with fashion?
A piece so versatile that it is appropriate for the garden party and the meeting, the BBQ and the wedding, the cinema and the staff party.
A garment that can be worn regardless of age, sex, social status or background .
Clean, crisp and cut to perfection.
he white shirt can be reworked in so many different ways, and paired with almost anything. Perhaps some black tailored culottes, with a scalloped edge and smart fit, complete with little embellished pockets? Or maybe a pair of jacquard paneled satin pants, finished with a baroque style paisley print?
Today, the white shirt is still favoured by many designers and fashion houses. MiuMiu offers sparkling embellished collars on the traditional piece, whilst Burberry Prorsum offers a historic twist with pleated bibs. Buttonless shirts with luxurious textures are produced by Valentino, and Marc Jacobs has crafted elegant white shirts with billowing sleeves. T
However it was a certain collection launched in 1985 that was key in emphasizing the white shirt. Of course, Donna Karan’s Capsule Wardrobe stated the white shirt as a ‘staple’ alongside the belted trench and bootleg jeans. Such a statement urged women around the world to invest in their ‘Seven Easy Pieces’ in a bid to create an effortlessly stylish, interchangeable wardrobe. Was the white shirt at the heart of this? Yes. Did it deserve to be there? Of course.
‘The Pirate Collection’ by Vivienne Westwood was typically eighties and screamed historical references; dramatic collars and big cuffs, with bold structures and thicker fabrics. The minimalistic and refined aesthetic of the 90s was seen in white shirts designed by Martin Margeila, Calvin Klein and Prada.
The film and music industries certainly spread the word of the white shirt. People started to realize that it was not just for work. This piece could be both sexy and conservative, contemporary and classic, masculine and feminine. The fashion industry continued to feed the white shirt fire, creating smoke signals that reached millions around the globe. Designers started to interpret the white shirt individually and diversely, with the outcome being an abundance of shirts for every occasion.
The list goes on…Kim Bassinger put on a masculine number for ‘9 and a Half Weeks’. An androgynous aesthetic was offered by Patti Smith on the cover of her album ‘Horses’ in 1975. Uma Therman paired her cigarette pants with a classic loose shirt for a dance with John Travolta in ‘Pulp Fiction’. Representing the men, we have Prince who sported the white shirt with retro puffed jabots, and who can forget our secret agent James Bond, looking handsomely classic countless times in tailored bleached shirts?
In addition, the white shirt can easily evoke memories of school days. The distress of wearing a school uniform in your teenage years is potentially the most frustrating factor regarding education; the years which are integral for finding your own image and sense of style. Everyone must remember the anger felt when leg warmers, earrings, badges and jackets were confiscated. When you are fifteen and told to roll down your skirt, or lengthen your tie, or turn down your collar, you feel stripped of your individuality. A desperate attempt at standing out amongst three hundred students dressed exactly the same as you…gone. If a glimpse of a white shirt and tie is too nostalgic for you to bear, there must be many right alongside you.
Many would argue that the white shirt is not an expressive piece of clothing. To some, white shirts are all far too similar and lack the originality that is constantly searched for to achieve a personal sense of style. White shirts by Burberry, Jil Sander and Chloe could all be held up to an audience and generate a response of ‘They all look the same’. Is the white shirt too boring, too safe for the contemporary man and woman? Unique style is strived for; does a white shirt make an individual catch your eye in a sea of suits?
Maybe the only restricting quality of the shirt is in fact the colour. Contradictory, yes, but if colour was not a restraint on this piece there would be so much more mileage. Imagine the endless combinations of patterns, colours, shades and prints that could be incorporated into a classic fitted shirt. Maybe all this time the ‘white shirt’ should have just been ‘the shirt’?
Fashion is constantly evolving and changing, but surely the white shirt can only evolve to a certain extent. A garment can only adapt to current trends and impacts before it just isn’t recognizable anymore. This raises an important question; will the white shirt lose its staple status? Yes the shirt is versatile, but will it be able to adapt to what the future holds?
Men may want to jazz up the black work trousers with a statement jacket. Would you go for a velvet tuxedo jacket in the deepest shade of burgundy? Or possibly a more minimalist approach with a navy overcoat in the softest wool, with the sharpest tailoring? Although there are endless combinations for this staple piece, maybe the white shirt is about to wave it’s flag?
Words by Elizabeth Champ
Perhaps those who claim white shirts are all too similar can simply not appreciate the details that distinguish shirt from shirt. The buttons, the cuffs, the collar, the fit, the fabric; what makes a real shirt. Those who disagree? Well, it is very possible you are yet to find your perfect white shirt.
Maybe the white shirt is not yet ready to surrender itself to the future of fashion. It has remained a constant through multiple social, cultural, environmental and political impacts; a much greater force will be needed to shift the shirt from its high status. The white shirt possesses such a positive reputation, for both men and women, and is a fundamental staple in millions of wardrobes. The beauty of the white shirt is that one does not have a certain look, or be particularly fashion conscious to wear it. It is effortless and definitive.
When a trend is over-worn, less interest is taken and it eventually wanes and withers. The white shirt is considered as a timeless classic, constantly remaining in fashion and appearing on the runway season after season. However, with trend cycles becoming smaller and smaller, the white shirt’s stability surely must be at stake. Combined with innovative new pieces hitting the runway every season, it is possible the white shirt will fall into the trend cycles. Imagine white shirts are only worn for a few months every four years. Envisage walking into your office on a rainy Monday morning, to be greeted with the most vibrant abundance of colour and print. Magenta, turquoise, mustard, scarlet and emerald. Houndstooth, polka dots, checks, stripes and paisley. The white shirt…? What white shirt?
Considering how anyone of any age or gender can wear the white shirt, it’s quite surprising how it hasn’t become less important in fashion. Which makes one wonder, will it ever become less ‘dressy’? As a staple worn by both men and women, school children and businesspersons, it is possible in the future that the white shirt will no longer be a smart wardrobe choice but much more casual. The formal piece could decline on the smart-ometer down to the level of apparel that is regarded as safe. Maybe alongside casual wardrobe choices such as the black t-shirt or the bootleg jeans.
Wet the rim of the martini glass and dip in sugar. Pour the cranberry juice and vodka into a shaker with the ice. Shake and pour into the martini glass. Carefully pour grenadine down the inside of the glass so it settles at the bottom. Slowly add the blue curaco. Garnish with a lemon rind.
Difficulty: Easy Cranberry Juice Vodka Grenadine Bue Curaco Sugar Lemon Ice
Cokatil Hour; Roman Candle
Strata.
Photographs by Elizabeth Champ
Words and images by Helena Roots
Tigerlily achieves what so many bars attempt at yet fail. It manages to combine a range of stylistic features without seeming confused, and it offers both high-end luxury and affordable good value bargains. It would be easy for a place such as Tigerlily to feel elitist but it does not, simply because it has something to offer anyone. Whether your preference is a glass of champagne in a reserved booth bedecked with candles and modern fixtures, or tapas style sharing boards of food in front of the fire, Tigerlily can cater for you; and what’s more, it can do so in style.
Tigerlily does not just offer a wide range of cocktails, but also an all-encompassing wine menu, impressive array of spirits (available to be purchased by the bottle and served at the table, if you would prefer) and beer, lager and ales on draught, served from elegant swan-neck pumps by the young yet undeniably competent and charismatic staff.
This culture clash of old versus new, of conventional versus contemporary, is carried through to the extensive bar menu. Tigerlily offers an extensive range of over sixty cocktails, from the classics of the Cosmopolitan, Daiquiri and Pina Colada, to the obscure and commendable concoctions that Tigerlily is famed for, such as the atmospheric homage to Scotland ‘A Kraken Bru’, a cocktail that serves up to three people and consists of three types of rum, guava and grapefruit juices, and cherry syrup, presented in a punch bowl under a gloomy fog. There truly is a cocktail for any person, for any mood, and for any situation.
On entering the main bar you are struck by the high ceilings of the Georgian style building, typical of Edinburgh, coupled with the full sized traditional fireplace and comfortable cluster of sofas, none of which would look out of place in a family living room. However, stray a couple of feet from this section of the Tigerlily labyrinth and, as opposed to traditionalism and home-style comforts, you are faced with shimmering tiled walls, modern light fixtures in bold hot pink, high backed black leather chairs and booth seating areas.
In the heart of Edinburgh’s most celebrated and fashionable post code, nestled amongst the high-end bars and shops of George Street, is Tigerlily; a restaurant, bar and hotel in one. On a wet and dismal day you would be forgiven for absentmindedly walking by Tigerlily yet, at night, when the grand building is bathed in an ethereal red glow and the open doors reveal a tempting warm light to passers-by, to walk past would be a mistake.
TIGERLILY
Words by Jazzino Tamani Images by Elizabeth Champ
It is always a good litmus test to observe what direction designers take on what the consumer wants. Fast fashion has lost its appeal and now we want truly individual and intricate clothing. Silhouettes are alien and sculptural, using the body is a mobile canvas and morphing wearers into living art, materials that are reminiscent of NASA are used to produce exquisite dresses and style is not about restraint but the balance between the maximal and the tasteful. The frontier of fashion is infinite and the consumer is ready for anything.
The consumer culture has never been more focused on quality and luxury. Clothing is our ultimate statement in who we are and what our lifestyle is. In a society of “lookbookers” and “instagramers” it feels like being unique is harder than ever. And this new wave of pseudo-couturiers is satisfying the hunger for the different and individual.
Designers are never one to shy away from a challenge. It seems this rise of high street fashion has brought out some of the most innovative and creative work ever seen on the runway. Avant-garde is no longer thought of as weird or daring but stylish and almost the norm. Christopher Kane is one of these new wave of designers, pushing the limits of what fashion is. Nothing is out of range, from acrylic wing bolt fastenings to neon laser cut leather; this boy transforms the ordinary into the spectacular.
With the economic downturn, high street stores have been using all means possible to keep ahead and keep their profits up. The best example of this is H&M. Everyone will have heard of at least one collaboration they’ve done and that is just icing on a very large cake. Maison Martin Margiela, Versace and Lanvin have all teamed up with the brand to create collections that sold out in minutes. Not only that but creating exclusive collections, hosting exclusive events and launching awards to find emerging talent, the store really has become a dominant figure in affordable style.
It has never been easier to mimic the looks that parade the catwalks today and to be fair a lot of us can’t afford the looks on the runway. When choosing between a £50 dress and a £500 dress, for many it’s a no-brainer. Whilst that means the high street has never been more creative and successful, designers are certainly feeling the pinch. So it seems that designers from all corners from the world are stepping up to the plate to show off their skill and prove that high-end is still the best.
High street labels have raised the bar of affordable style so designers are raising theirs with out-ofthe-box designs and unbeatable quality.
Faux Couture
Paul Smith Wool Blend Leather Sleeved Bomber, £840 Dunhill Black Leather Holdall Travel Bag, £1,400 Dolce and Gabbana Plaid Cashmere Scarf, £335
Burberry Garbadine Trench Coat, £1,195 Charlotte Olympia Kitty Embroidered Velvet Flats, £465 Alexander McQueen Skull Print Cashmere Blend Scarf, £245
River Island Contrast Sleeve Bomber, £50 ASOS Old Boy Leather Satchel, £55 All Saints Valley Scarf, £55
Zara Trend Coat, £69.99 Simmi Black Kitty Slippers, £20 ASOS Metallic Skull Print Scarf, £12
iMAGE cREDITS Portraits and Whiteout Illustrations Hayley Jade Browne http://instagram.com/hayley_jade_ Link Lust List Yard-O-Led Pen Writing Bureau; www.johnlewis.com D.L & Co Skull Candle; www.selfridges.com Scrabble Cushions; www.dotmaison.com Dedicated Turntable iPhone Case; www.urbanoutfitters.com Anorak Kissing Stags Mug; www.johnlewis.com Edited and compiled by Elizabeth Champ Rose Wash Photography by Elizabeth Champ Dark Vestiges Photography by Elizabeth Champ Illustrations by Chelsea Smith Instagram/blog Cocktail Hour Image by Elizabeth Champ Strata. Photography by Elizabeth Champ Tigerlily Images by Helena Roots A Refined Gentleman Photography by Elizabeth Champ
Faux Couture Burberry Trench coat, Charlottle Olympia shoes, Alexander Mcqueen scarf; www.netaporter.com Paul Smith jacket, Dunhill bag, Dolce & Gabbana scarf; www.mrporter.com River Island jacket, ASOS satchel, ASOS scarf; www.asos.com All Saints scarf; www.allsaints.com Simmi Shoes; www.simmi.com Zara trench coat; www.zara.com Edited and compiled by Elizabeth Champ
Sasha Navy Wool Cape - American Apparel Black Lace Maxi Dress - Raquel Allegra Black Bodycon Maxi Dress - Maison Martin Margiela Indigo Peplum Jacket - Burberry Lace Up Shoe Boots - Kurt Geiger Crimson Contrast Peter Pan Dress - Marni Navy Lace Maxi Dress - Iro
Tortoiseshell Watch – Marc Jacobs Blue Dog Bow Tie – Alexander Olch Peach High Collar Shirt W– Vivienne Westwood Brown Rustic Leather Brogues – Paul Smith Navy Pirate Trousers – Vivienne Westwood Brown Double Button Blazer – Ben Sherman White Slim Fit Shirt – Hartford Black Leather Satchel – Ted Baker Brown Leather Strap Watch- Emporio Armani Blue Herringbone Tie – Burberry London Grey Textured Slim Fit Trousers – J.Crew Silver Roman Numeral Watch- Boss by Hugo Boss Light Grey Textured Bow Tie – Burberry London Black Leather Brogues – KG by Kurt Geiger
A Refined Gentleman
Sean Fitted Grey Trench Coat - Burberry Slim Fit Black Trousers - Acne Red Slim Fit Shirt - Paul Smith Green Slim Fit Shirt - Surface To Air Lined Rust Mac - Gibson Brown Leather Brogues - Paul Smith Navy Pirate Trousers - Vivienne Westwood
Dark Vestiges
Rose Wash Gold Ear Cuff & Hair Piece - Wildfox Rose Gold Heart Pendant Necklace - Anita Ko Rose Gold Torque - Giles & Brother Gold Leaf Head Piece - Noemi Klein Brass Ciff - French Connection Cream Lace Poncho - Anna Sui White Chiffon Maxi Dress - Chloe Cream Lace Dress - Maje
Apparel Credits
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