Fashionality by Fashionality

FASHIONALITY Rihanna Taking On the designing industry alOngside Kanye West

Dennis Okwera DiscriminatiOn in the mOdelling industry Behind the scenes at Central Saint Martins HOliday Makeup Trends HOw tO dress fOr yOuR BOdy shape DO yOu dress 'Old fashiOned'?

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fashionality december16

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ecember is always the busiest time of year for every publication and that does not exclude the Fashionality team. This month saw myself meet editor to editor after spending an evening with Jo Elvin, the wonder behind Glamour Magazine. After a lengthy discussion, it gave me a different view on how to run my own magazine, which enabled us all to go about out work in a better way. Rihanna’s latest releases of her many shoe collaborations got the world in a spin (page 16) and we take a look at why celebrity fashion labels are as popular as they are (page 12). As ever fashion is what we love most at Fashionality, we have a behind the scenes from Central Saint Martins (page 6), inspiration can be found for your party clothing in our article on dressing for you body shape (page 30) whilst keeping in mind our feature on the resurgence of 80s and 90s fashion (page 36). To keep up Christmas spirits we have beauty ideas for you to dazzle during the festive season and the New Year (page 26). As always it was our pleasure to meet with and speak to model Dennis Okwera about the industry we love so dearly (page 20), and as always keep you up to date with the latest fashion and beauty news. You can catch our full feature of our evening and meeting with Jo Elvin on our Voice Of London website. Grace Brown

wHERE TO GO 5 fashion news 6 central saint martins 12 yeezy/ rihanna culture 16 rihanna collections 20 dennis okwera 26 holiday makeup 30 dress for your shape 36 do you dress ‘old fashioned’? 38 gift sets Editor: grace brown deputy editor: jessica penfold art director: alma fabiani Social media: Zynab sandhu cOVER & sub editors: Grace brown, Jessica penfold, zynab sandhu, alma fabiani, pinar djafer, maria l’aiguille 3

Fashion & beauty news Photo courtesy of Fashion East

London Collection Mens is coming soon... Here’s a brief schedule for Men’s Fashion Week 2017 in London: The new season will start on January 6th 2017 until the 9th. The usuals such as J.W.Anderson, Vivienne Westwood, Belstaff will be there. Burberry will however be absent from the catwalks. Less famous names like Craig Green, Grace Wales Bonner and Nigel Cabourn will also be showing. Finally, Hussein Chalayan’s first menswear show will be debuted. Exciting! Dennis Okwera, our feature model will also be walking this year.

Kylie launches TheKylieShop BeautyPie

Not heard of Beauty Pie? You may want to familiarize yourself with them ASAP. The beauty subscription service allows customers to get make up at hugely discounted prices. At £10 a month, the brand uses ingredients and pigments exactly as luxury brands do, but only charge the cost price of the products. A first of its kind, the new website created by the founder of Bliss Spa breaks down the cost price for you so you know exactly what you’re paying for. A full collection isn’t available just yet, there’s a limited range of foundation shades and no eye shadow just yet but Beauty Pie promise new products every month. What’s the catch? Subscribers must pay for a minimum three months, and can only buy six products a month to prevent bulk buying. With prices so cheap can complain?

Metix: The Beauty Social Networking App

Is there anything Kylie Jenner won’t release or venture into? The 19 year old is renowned for her popular lip kits and now she’s throwing herself into the merchandising business that’s all things Kylie. The Kylie Shop launches Decemeber the 10th and shes been giving fans previews of whats in store on the official Instagram page @ thekylieshop. Its not long been announced and the page already contains 82 images of what products will be available which includes a 2017 calendar shot by controversial photographer Terry Richardson, clothing, underwear, badges and phone cases. The merch contains the signature Kylie Jenner lips icon which is plastered all over her lipkits as well as pictures of herself and boyfriend Tyga.

This app is set to be the new beauty ‘Instagram’. It allows users to shop directly from your favourite celebrities, bloggers and beauty gurus and make up artists. Those with an account are able to post selfies or tutorials, where other users can click the ‘shop’ button under the post and browse what products have been used. You are then able to purchase these products straight from the app adding products from different store in to one basket. Perfect for beauty enthusiasts who want to keep on trend and it means no more asking ‘where did you get that lipstick from?’

Robert Kardashian unveils new Christmas line

After the birth of his baby Dream Kardashian (congratulations), Robert Kardashian has still made time to keep his business afloat. His sock line Arthur George was established in 2012, he’s recently released a new line of festive and baby socks, which you can find on his online store. 5

= freedom Central Saint Martins We interviewed Lucile Guilmard, a second year Fashion Design and Marketing

student at Central Saint Martins. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a behind the scene look at the University that heavily contributed to the growth of the fashion industry in Britain. Words by Alma Fabiani

Lucile (on the left) with her friend Marie wearing her creation at Saint Martinsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; White Show

f you ask them, a lot of for my foundation year was really students make the whole show. teenagers who know they want random because I had no idea ven though Lucile is to study fashion design will tell what I wanted to do for it and the only in her second year, you that Central Saint Martins teachers didn’t ask for anything she had the chance to is their dream school. People specific. For the BA however, your participate in a catwalk: from the fashion industry such as whole foundation year’s purpose “At the end of your third year, you Stella McCartney and Alexander is to prepare yourself for this have one which is a really big deal McQueen studied there. In other assessment. So the one you work because it’s your final collection words, anyone who has an interest on during foundation year is crucial. and it’s where people from the in fashion knows about CSM. But If you mess it up, you mess up fashion industry might discover you. what people don’t know is what your chances of My class also it’s like studying there. How do the getting into CSM did one during “The teachers expect us first year which teachers behave? Do the students and you wouldn’t have freetime? Hell, do they have want that.” was called ‘The to learn everything by fun or are they drowning under work Now, to be White Show’. all the time? willing to spend ourselves but I think it’s for The theme was To answer all those questions, we three years of the best. You don’t have any white, obviously, met student Lucile Guilmard. Lucile your life studying and that was obligations, it’s freedom.” it, you could left Paris, where she was born and fashion and grew up, at 18 to live in London. creating clothes, do anything in She came to study Fashion Design anyone would white. They tried and Marketing at Central Saint think that you must have a reason to impose a few different themes Martins. However, getting accepted behind it, that you must know where but everyone thought it was bullshit to CSM is not easy. your interest comes from. If you so we all did what we wanted to do”. Talking about what she had to go don’t know, don’t worry, Lucile still So at CSM, students are allowed through and about her first year, has no idea: to inform their teacher when they Lucile explains: “Since I was very young, I just think a them is “bullshit”, interesting “I did a foundation year, which is knew. I have no idea why or how to know. like a preparation year where they I decided to study fashion design, When you get to decide if a see if you are worth being at CSM. I I just knew and that was a bit of a project is good enough for you had to come to London a few weeks problem because when I applied for or not, you must only have great before it started. My English wasn’t universities and courses, all they memories of any assessment at the very good and I was excited but were asking was ‘Why do you want end of it. I still asked Lucile if she scared at the same time. Everything to do that?’ and I had no answer for has a favourite project of hers and was so new, everyon so openthem. I used to just tell them ‘I have surprisingly, she does: minded compared to people in Paris no idea but that’s what I want to do, “I do, it’s my project from last that I felt like I could do anything. I know it, that’s it’ and apparently summer. Every summer we have a I know it sounds a it worked just fine. project to hand in when we go back bit cliche but that’s I still don’t know to uni. For this one, the brief was “When I applied how I felt. After my why I like it so very vague, we waited for it for quite first day however, I much.” a while so that in the end they just for universities and wasn’t that happy So once you’re told us ‘Do whatever you want.’ At courses, all they were in, once you’re anymore. I suddenly first, I was a bit annoyed, like thank realised how much a student at you very much for the precision of asking was “Why do work and how much CSM, you get an it, but then I started thinking hard you want to do that?” inside look. Will time I was going to about it. I wanted to give myself a put in these studies, and I had no answer for you like what challenge and work on stuff that I and the whole idea you’re studying had done before and disliked. So them.” scared me. It took and what you’ve I made a list of what I hate doing me a week to get already studied? and what I dislike in everyday life. better and to adapt to this new life. Won’t you have any complaints? On it I had jewelries, girly stuff and Once I made friends, everything Lucile doesn’t have an that she can menswear. So I decided to design else became easier.” think of. girly clothes as well as jewelries that So what do you really do during “I love it, it’s really crazy. The a man would wear. My dad ended this foundation year, apart from teachers teach us nothing but it up being my model, that’s him on making new friends? That’s what I doesn’t really matter to me. They the pictures wearing my clothes asked Lucile and she explained: expect us to learn everything by and jewelry. I put a lot of time in “You have a final project at the ourselves but I think it’s for the best. this project, even though it was end of the year where you have You don’t have any obligations, it’s during my holidays. I enjoyed doing to present a portfolio and then complete freedom.” something out of my comfort zone. from that you know if you can Central Saint Martins is also I was really happy with the outcome study at CSM for real. My project known for its catwalks where and so were my teachers.” 7

Lucileâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dad in her project

Lucile (on the right) with friend in Berlin

ucile also worked on working on a project, they’ll end up another project, quite loving it anyway.” different from the previous Talking about creativity and one called ‘The Swishhh’. inspiration, I asked Lucile about When I ask her to talk more about it, hers. As a fashion student, you she instantly gets excited and starts must have fashion designers or talking with her hands: brands that you look up to. She “It was my last project during first explained that she founds last year. We had a few weeks inspiration in any form of art, or to create this whole even on the streets of project so we wanted London. When asked “We had no rules about specific creators something fun to do. We created this group and the freedom we she finally picked one: of girls, around 12 girls, “Charles Jeffrey is a had helped us being massive we founded this artistic influence on more creative.” me. He graduated from community where you could do anything. We Central Saint Martins in did fittings, clothes, 2015 and he is a friend parties… We organized a party of mine as well. I love the fact that in a nightclub, it was great! The he’s a fashion designer as well as concept of it was to just throw out an illustrator because I use a lot art basically. It may sound really of drawings in my creations and I random now but everything was feel like I understand his work more well planned and well thought, it than others. He also organizes was a very interesting project on parties called LOVERBOY in VF creativity. We had no rules and the Dalston where he collaborates with freedom we had helped us being different artists. It’s not so different more creative. We weren’t graded from what we were trying to do on it but our teachers loved it. As with ‘The Swishhh’. Trying different long as you’re having fun while things in art gives you flexibility and

inspiration, that’s how it works for me at least.” So it can be said about Lucile Guilmard that Central Saint Martins was the right choice for her and that the week of adaptation that it took her at first was worth it. Not a lot of students who go to university in London can have this much freedom. For someone who always wanted to work in fashion and who left Paris to give it a try, Lucile succeeded. Talking about London and her future career, she seems optimistic and thrilled: “London is paradise! I’m not planning on staying here forever because I want to see new things first, as a lot of creative people do. I want to live somewhere else for a bit but I’ll end up coming back here, for sure. I want to go to New York next year and explore the fashion scene there, I’ve heard a lot about it. But I definitely don’t regret coming here to study and at Central Saint Martins. I know I said the teachers don’t teach you things directly but their advices and experience make it all worth it.” x 9

How did Fenty and Yeezy become so successful? Kanye West and Rihanna are known for their status in the music industry. Both artists have come to earn millions not just for music but designing their own fashion collections and taking on the Fashion world. Words by Jessica Penfold.

ihanna first took off in the fashion industry when she started collaborating with brands, particularly

in the UK. She worked alongside River Island back in 2013 and released three collections in which she was heavily involved in. This was such a hit with fans and products sold out fast, no surprise here being that River Island is an affordable high street store accessible to so many of us. This wasn’t it for the Bajan singer, she came back full force in 2014 where it was announced that she was to be Puma’s global ambassador and creative director. A press release around the time stating: “Embodying everything that Puma stands for, Rihanna’s

unstoppable spirit, creative energy and prowess both on and off the stage, make her the perfect representation of the Puma brand.” This multi-year partnership kicked off in 2015, which was the year fans saw Rihanna bring out the Puma Creeper collaboration in September, which has since won shoe of the year award 2016. Every time the creeper is re-released, it sells out instantly and within just 35 minutes on some websites. There have been 10 colours that have been released, with the last set of three that dropped December 8th. Fans went crazy over the last instalment of the collection. The shoe originally retailed at £68 however when realising how popular the collection was going to

be, the second instalment had the shoe retailing at £100. Rihanna, real name Robyn Fenty, has since hosted two puma fashion shows at New York and most recently Paris Fashion week, debuting her clothing line Fenty with the brand, which displays urban street wear fashion pieces with a heftier price tag. The collection was very Rihannaesque as she has been seen numerous times wearing items from her own collection which makes fans even more eager to get their hands on it. Despite the creepersoled shoe being affordable and ever so popular for its friendly price tag, the collection is definitely more high end fashion prices. With jackets retailing at £1,300 we’re

Rihanna runway New york Fashion week

“Embodying everything that Puma stands for, Rihanna’s unstoppable spirit, creative energy and prowess both on and off the stage, make her the perfect representation for the Puma brand.” 13

not surprised those haven’t sold out just yet. Puma has to thank Rihanna big time as the brand have earned roughly $30 million more dollars than what was predicted to originally sell and ‘Rih’, as fans call her, has helped the brand earn almost a billion dollars in its fourth quarter. “She can sell sneakers and Puma are onto something here which we haven’t yet seen in the women’s area,” the CEO of Puma, Bjorn Gulden revealed in a previous press conference. Rihanna may have gotten lucky and her status within the designing world has since soared, numbers don’t lie; Kanye West wasn’t as lucky when it was revealed he lost millions trying to prove himself as a fashion designer. West revealed the lump sum was $13million (£8mill) during a radio interview on shade 45 back in 2013: “I just told you I lost the money because I did not have the knowledge [to] do it the right way”. Money problems weren’t over for the husband of Kim Kardashian as he tweeted earlier this year: “I write this to you my brothers while still in 53 million dollars in personal debt. Yes I am personally rich and can buy furs and houses for my family, but I need access to more money in order to bring more beautiful ideas to the world.” Despite his collaborations, especially his Yeezy boost trainers being so popular and complete sell outs, the rapper has obviously had to learn the hard way in getting where he is today and it seemed

“I just told you, I lost the money because I did not have the knowledge to do it the right way.”

Yeezy Season 3 speech

he really did have to graft. West’s first attempt at designing hit rock bottom in 2009 when he was trying to establish his line, Pastelle, which shuttered after just seven months and according to Jean Touitou, put the rapper out $30million. Kanye first started working with Nike when he released Nike Air Yeezy sneakers then later revealed he wasn’t given a percentage of the sales. He later went on to sign a $10million deal with Adidas which has given us Yeezy season 1, 2, 3 and 4. Kanye has bought out and since become iconic for his Yeezy boost 350 trainer which has been released in many colours, his latest just last month with more still due to come out. The artist has created womenswear, which has been sported heavily by wife Kim Kardashian and has created trends around the world with cheaper brands creating copies of the shoes and heels in particular.

oth artists have inspired millions, in particular millennials and people obviously love to get their hands on this stuff. Their popularity may fall down to the fact that both artists have made it openly obvious they don’t care what people say about them. This also includes their

KANYE own personal style. They like to break boundaries when it comes to fashion and people respect this. Kanye and Rihanna are both trendsetters and what they do, say, and wear, people love to copy. The collaborations for both artists working with two of the biggest athletic wear companies in the world; Adidas and Puma has worked in their favour and will no doubt continue to as there’s no sign of either stopping any time soon. Singers do not always work as designers just because they are singers. Beyonce released a collection with high street retailer Topshop, which received some criticism and didn’t take as well as people might have thought. Not just anyone can become a designer, singers with a large following are given a huge advantage but it’s how they work with the fans and the relationships they form that carry their work on further for it to become successful. x

Yeezy Season 4 show

Fenty gets fancy in velvet

ans were waiting for the singer no exception. Velvet is something and athletic brand to announce Rihanna hasn’t touched on before when the next installment of the and has no doubt saved the best for complete sell out shoe will be released last, the metallic gold foil branding and it was December 8th. across all 3 adds a luxurious look that Not only that, it’s the last she will can be dressed up or down. It was release, so if you wanted to get your revealed that a velvet shoe bag will be hands on pair, you better have been accompanying the shoe to add to the fast. The shoe itself was named ‘Shoe experience, making it feel all the more of the year’ by Footwear news and luxurious. The pumas were handcrafted on November 29th in NYC Rihanna in Italy and Rihanna has previously accepted the award at the 30th annual revealed that the shoes don’t happen FN Achievement awards. The singer over night and take time to make them was the first female ever to win ‘Shoe of as good of quality as they are today, the year’, definitely something to write meaning that fans need to be patient as home about being that the sneaker its quality over quantity and she wants culture is mainly male-dominated. to give her fans the best. Achievement awards cover Taking to Instagram to celebrate the There were three choices to choose news with fans, “To God be the Glory!!! What a blessing from; all black, charcoal grey and red/burgundy, the to be honored with this prestigious award, and to be perfect Autumnal colour and most luxurious looking of the first woman receiving “SHOE OF THE YEAR” at the 3 as black has been previously released in a couple #FNAA!! Never could I have imagined the amount options but never in all over velvet, this takes it up a of support and love we got from around the world whole notch. Since the velvet hasn’t happened before, for #THECREEPER !!! Thank you to everyone who it was a complete sell out and it’s no surprise as every represented and made the movement!!! One Love.” release has sold out within hours. These make for the The three colour ways released were in a material the perfect Christmas present for anyone who loves style singer hasn’t done before, velvet luxury colours black, and comfort, appealing to millions of different people charcoal grey and burgundy. its hard to find someone who wouldn’t like the look and The popular shoe has been renowned for its feel of these shoes. comfort and overall look, and the last 3 colours were Written by Jessica Penfold. 16

fter the huge success of her debut collection with Manolo Blahnik, Rihanna has been hard at work with her second line for the designer shoe brand aptly named #Savage. Manolo Blahnik, famed for creating shoes with stiletto heels, originally reworked Timberland boots in 1994 giving them a more feminine approach by adding a spiky heel. Favoured by many celebrities including Beyonce and Jennifer Lopez who both wore them in their music videos. Rihanna, who was clearly a fan of Blahnik’s update, revised the boot and added a fur trim for her 2016 collection naming the boot “The Fallon”. The singer has taken inspiration from classic Timberland boots and given them a sexy update for females across the world combining luxurious suede with a fur trim, taking a masculine aesthetic work boot look and pairing with a feminine spiky stiletto heel. The second collection showcases three styles of winter boots including the “Fallon” available in two colours, the “Alexis”; a longer knee high version of The

Fallon adorned with more fur is also available in two colours, and the thigh high “Dominique”, a pony skin boot with a laser cut floral brocade in black. On her collaborations with Blahnik, Rihanna says: “I have always loved Manolo Blahniks. Mr Manolo’s shoes are the most luxurious and timeless shoe there is! His designs make women feel incredible when they wear them, so to be able to collaborate with him and combine our sensibilities has been a dream come true!” Her previous line with Blahnik saw a denim theme in her shoes, and the website crashed as people rushed to buy them despite prices starting from £541 up to £2458. Prices for this collection are said to be just as expensive and the capsule collection will be sold exclusively on Manolo Blahnik’s website, and in selected stores. To buy a pair of the Savage collection, head down to Burlington Arcade, London to get your hands on the shoes. Prices start from an eye watering £1,081 to £2,339. Written by Grace Brown.

Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik: 2nd collection unveiled

Dennis Nyero Okwera His workload is never shortcoming; he’s an option for Ted Baker and good friends with Paloma Faith. You’ve probably seen his face several times without realising who he is. Words by Grace Brown

“

In Milan you do get discrimination. You walk into some castings and in some you’ll see a note that says no black models.

hile the modelling industry is slowly becoming more diverse and stepping away from the ultra-skinny white models we’re accustomed to seeing it’s still not quite there. In New York for Autumn/Winter 2016 collections, it was reported that 75% of models that walked the runway were white. Okwera, who will be walking the catwalk for SS17 at London Collections Men says, “The fashion industry has a very out dated view, especially in Milan… You walk into some castings and in some of them you’ll see a note that says no black models”. The fashion industry is notorious for not being racially diverse, especially on catwalks. Even in 2016 it seems that discrimination is still present. “I think it will change, but I don’t want it to be forced to change. I just expect them to change because it’s the right thing to do”. 21

“

Change is happening; it’s just taking longer than it should. Most designers will design clothes that suit a certain aesthetic - white and ultra-skinny. “I can kind of understand; if your collection will only look good on certain models, what’s the point of forcing it on black or Asian models if it’s not going to work? But why not cater for everyone?” A question I presume will be on the lips of most non-white models hoping to break the norms of the industry. In November 2016 the fashion world was gifted with a collaboration from Kenzo X H&M, this collaboration saw the promotion of the collection feature the most racially diverse line up of models we’ve seen thus far. A huge step in encouraging other big brand fashion names to do the same. Rapper come fashion designer Kanye West is also very insistent on using models with diverse nationalities

when it comes to his clothing line as he’s very aware of the lack of nonwhite models walking catwalks. Despite ambushing him at work and taking up his entire lunch break, Dennis is happy and keen to discuss all aspects of his life with me. The usually very private model is very open with me whilst prying into his life, perhaps it’s because we’re friends or he just wants to get his views of the industry out there in his own words. Joining the game at the late age of 28, he still hasn’t hit his peak at work three years later. Whilst he may be a newcomer to the industry and the discrimination it sometimes features, Okwera isn’t concerned his current workload will decline. With new, younger faces being signed every day, on the idea of staying relevant he’s confident he’ll be okay, “I don’t try to stay relevant because I’ll get the work, which is something I’m grateful for”, he continues, “There are a lot of new faces that have strong faces. But some people in the industry find a comfort zone and kind of want to stay there. So they’ll book models that they know, on set they’re going to nail that job, instead of trying to get a new face and risk the chance of not getting that shot. “ After being signed by AMCK models in 2013, an agency exclusively for males, his bookings are only escalating. A quick browse through his Dennis for J.W Anderson, photograph by Olivia Rose Instagram page displays Garden hundreds of images ranging

“

I didn’t even know who Paloma Faith was when I arrived on set for her video

from editorial shoots for magazines including Volt, Diion, Hunger, Dazed and High Snobiety magazine, all advocates of high fashion, art and popular culture. The model of Ugandan heritage, now 31, only does this as part time work. He’s still yet to give up his job at leading supermarket Waitrose and instead fits modelling around that. “During my lunch breaks I’ll go to a casting or a fitting and I have to make sure I’m back to Waitrose on time”. Perhaps not the glitz and glam we presume models are accustomed to, but a life that’s necessary to stay relevant in an industry where new talent is found every day. “I wasn’t planning on being a model. I got asked when I was in school to do it fully, but my parents didn’t like the idea of it, so I didn’t do it”. Although having studied for a degree in Biochemistry at university, he decided not to pursue that career and instead stayed at his job in Waitrose and occasionally worked as a painter and decorator with the idea of modelling buried away. After being scouted by people in the industry at a party later in life, it was then that Dennis decided to give it a go. “My parents are alright with it now because they can see financially it’s doing me some good. That and I’m not doing anything or modelling anything I shouldn’t be”. Sleeping for only six hours each night, it would be safe to assume that leaving his job at Waitrose in January as he plans to, will give him a well-deserved career break as he decides to pursue modelling full time. Now that he realises it will bring in financial stability without having to work two jobs. 23

Paloma

t was two years to the day of this interview Dennis got one of his big breaks, when his casting agents were sent a request for a model to play the role of Paloma Faith’s lover in her music video “Can’t Rely On You”. Paloma requested a dark skin model to contrast with her pale skin. “My agent wasn’t even going to send me. It’s only because my assistant agent suggested sending new faces. I’d only just started modelling really. It was my first proper paid job”. Despite Paloma’s success with her career, Okwera was still none the wiser as to who she was even after being cast for her video. “I saw a lady and her team walk past on set, then she looked towards me, came over and said ‘you’re here for my video’ that was when I realised who Paloma Faith was”. Luckily, unoffended and impressed that not

Professionalism

ontacts in the industry aren’t the only way to get booked for a job though, professionalism at all times is key insists Dennis: “you have to work really hard, look after your body and be professional. I know you’re getting paid for it but you’ve still got to appreciate the time it’s taken to do that job. Stay professional and be humble because it’s one industry that you can get a big head because you do get treated like a proper star,” he continues, “Everybody in the industry is connected somehow, so if you’re just a party head who’s there for the free drinks and the glitz and glam it’ll travel along the line and you won’t get booked for the jobs because they’ll feel like you don’t take it seriously”. By continually working hard and keeping focused, Dennis has managed to land several major jobs since his work with Paloma. 2016 saw Dennis shoot for big brands such as make up giants 24

everybody knew her. On the way to another location, the two quckly bonded and a friendship had formed when shooting was complete. Clearly having made an impression on Paloma, Dennis was later called back to shoot another of her music videos for “Only Love Can Hurt Like This” three months later. The video has now amassed just under 45 million views on YouTube, and is her most viewed video to date. Starring in such a big video can only have done wonders for the model who reveals, “Paloma and I talk a lot, she’s connected me with a few people in the industry, the videos were watched by a lot of people so they could have remembered me from there which could have helped me get a lot of work”. Dennis admits this video also saw him on the receiving end of racist comments online, “I got a

Illamasqua for their Halloween commercial, British favourite designer Ted Baker for their Mission Impeccable campaign; a three-part series directed by Guy Ritchie, in which he plays Manny Quin (mannequin), America’s favourite luxury department store Barneys, and worldwide clothing giants H&M in the Philippines. He understands that he’s recognised within the industry for his work and is content to stay at that level, the mere mention of him becoming as famous as companion David Gandy and he’s quick to shut it all down: “I don’t want to get to that stage, someone like Gandy doesn’t have any privacy. He’s a nice guy, proper chilled but he doesn’t have an ounce of privacy. That’s a massive thing for me”. He explains to me that he’s on social media because his agency told him to be and uses it to promote other people’s work that choose to use him. He doesn’t even know the login details for his Twitter account,

lot of racist guys commenting on it. I guess people don’t want to see that kind of video with someone black. To be honest though it doesn’t bother me, I just feel sorry for them”. On the subject of Paloma, he informs me that he’s just finished shooting the album cover for her third album, which will be out in the new year. Dennis and Paloma wrapping up set after filming “Can’t Rely on You” in 2014

or his Facebook for which he uses a pseudonym. “I have a different name on each platform because I just don’t want people messaging me constantly”. He’s purely there for promotion and not self-gratitude. x

Shot for Dazed Magazine, wearing Wales Bonner. Photograph by Brett Lloyd

Dennis in Canada Goose for Barneys New York.

Holiday Makeup with

Emma Ahmed

With Christmas and New years around the corner, Fashionality met with a makeup artist who showed us how to get the perfect makeup for this holiday season. Words by Zynab Sandhu

he holiday season is the perfect time to be more experimental and daring with your makeup. It’s all about the glitter, metallics and dark lips. This year’s holiday trends focus on glittery eyes, both with eyeshadows and liner, dark berry and £5.06 plum tone lips, and lots of highlighter. We met with Emma Ahmed, 22, a makeup and henna artist from London where she showed us how to get the perfect makeup to wear to any Christmas or New years parties. The look she created included warm brown tones and silver glitter on the eyes, with voluminous lashes, a light contour and dash of blush to give colour to the cheeks. The lips were kept muted as Emma said: “Glitter eyes and dark lips are great for the holiday seasons but I wouldn’t put them together, usually if you do a bold lip then you do simple eyes.”

Eyes:

The Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer potion, was used as the base for the eyeshadow. The primer helps keep the shadow 26

£16

in place and enables longevity. It also most importantly prevents the eyeshadow from creasing. This primer has been a firm favourite with beauty gurus online. Fleur from Fleur de Force said: “Urban Decay’s Primer Potion is my all-time favourite and will keep your eye makeup firmly in place until you’re ready to take it off.” A few warm browns with red undertones, eyeshadows were used from the Morphe 35w Eyeshadow Palette as well as some colours from the Smashbox Full Exposure Palette. Both palettes are good for the holiday season as the shadows are very pigmented and vibrant. The most exciting product used was the GlitterEyes, pressed glitter in ‘Champagne Kisses’. This glitter is very pigmented and easy to apply. It is a must have for the holiday season to ensure you stand out from the crowd. For the eyeliner, Emma used £5 the Maybelline Master Ink Liquid eyeliner and for the

eyelashes she used the Eylure London, Texture 117. Bottom lashes saw a coating of Benefit’s Rollerlash mascara. To line the waterline she used the Models own, I-Definer Kohl Pencil Eyeliner in Brown as she said that it helps to soften the look. The Soap & Glory, Archery in Brownie Points was used to fill in the eyebrows lightly.

Face:

£12.50

Before applying any concealer or foundation, Emma went in with the LA Girl Cosmetics HD Pro Orange Corrector under the eyes and on any blemishes on the face. There has been a big buzz recently around covering dark circles under the eyes and this corrector works well. The Glamorous Gleam beauty blog gave this corrector a good review saying: “The corrector does a great job of hiding dark circles, all you need to do is put a small amount on your ring finger and gently blend until your dark circles are covered.” Using an orange corrector underneath the eyes helps conceal the uneven skin tone and darkness on olive toned skin. A mixture of the LA Girl Cosmetics HD Pro Concealer in Pure

£10

Beige and the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer were used to conceal the under eyes, around the mouth, the redness £19.50 around the nose and any blemishes. The foundation that was used was the EX1 Cosmetics Invisiwear Liquid Foundation in 6.0. This foundation is great as it is feels very light on the face. This brand is particularly great for people with yellow undertones as it can be hard to find foundation for this tone in £7.99 drug stores. EX1 cosmetics

was founded by biochemist, Farah and the colours can be used as Naz, who personally struggled eyeshadows for days when a to find makeup that suited her contour is not necessary!” skin tone. It is a multi-award The party season is an winning makeup range thats excuse to go all out with popular with Hollywood’s A-List highlighting. For the highlight celebrities, models and beauty she used the Benefit High editors worldwide. Beam. This highlight is liquid To set the foundation and is buildable, you can go in place she used M.A.C for a subtle highlight or you Mineralize Skinfinish in Soft can go all out by adding more. and Gentle. A little bit of bronzer and This next product was used blush were applied to give for contouring, which may the face some colour. The sound weird because it is not Bourjois Little Round Pot designed for it. Emma used the Blusher in 33, Lilas D’or was Body Shop’s Darkening Shade used for the blush and the Adjusting Drops for the contour Bourjois Delice de Poudre which worked brilliantly and is Bronzing in number 55 was easily blendable. used for the bronzer. To set this contour she used Lips: the Anastasia Beverly Hills To line the lips she used the Contour Kit in Light to Medium. Urban Decay 24/7 Glide on Lip This product is a favorite with Pencil in 1993. This is a great beauty fanatics, Pixiwoo: £9.99 lip liner as it long lasting “The palette will last forever 27

£13.50

which is brilliant for the party season, you wont need to keep re- applying. The liner also comes in 50 different shades. She then used a mixture of two lip colours to apply on top on the liner. The NYX, Lip Lingerie in ‘10 - Teddy’ which is a light brown, nude colour and the Colourpop, Ultra Matte Lip in Tulle which is a deep red colour. The brown lip colour mixed with the red helps create a more muted look and makes sure it dosen’t take away the attention from the eyes. After all this effort of getting your holiday makeup looking flawless, we need to make sure it lasts all night long. First of all a clean canvas is very important as Emma explained: “Make sure to exfoliate and moisturise, try using a oil control moisturiser because you don’t want your foundation to get all shiny.” She then went on to explain how primer is also important in long lasting makeup: “I used to use the POREfessional by Benefit, but recently, this is really £24.50 weird but, I have been using a men’s aftershave cream, the Nivea Post Shave Balm.” This product has been really popular with beauty fans recently as it works really well as a primer. “Your foundation really sticks to it, it doesn’t contain alcohol eithe so it doesn’t react to your skin. Sometimes primers can feel a little too oily but this one isn’t.” Here Emma explains why she loves using the balm as a primer. Setting your makeup with finishing powders and setting sprays is also important in lasting makeup. “The Banana Powder and the Urban Decay setting spray are really good at keeping your make up lasting all night.” Emma tells about the products she uses. The spray is another

Q&A with Emma Ahmed When did your interest in makeup start?

£2.67

cult product in the online beauty world. Cosmopolitan listed it as one of the best setting sprays saying: “High tech ingredients help keep foundation, shadow and blush from smudging, sliding or fading - so you hardly ever need to touch up. Your makeup will look like you’ve just applied it”. One of the struggles with makeup in the winter is that the weather really effects our skins making it dry. We asked Emma to give us some tips on preventing this: “Obviously moisturising, using deep moisturising and skin repair creams at night. Nourishing face masks and most importantly stay hydrated.” x

Which beauty gurus inspire your work? “Kaushal (Kaushal Beauty), Dress your face (Tamanna Roshan) and Desi Perkins. I watched Nicole Guerriero and also Carli Bybel, at the start.”

What is your favourite product at the moment? “Just choosing one is so hard! I would say the NARS Sheer Glow Foundation, its really good, the shade Barcelona suits Asian skin tones really well. I have cousins that are lighter and darker in tone than me but it suits them all, I don’t know how but it just does!”

How did you learn to do makeup? Finished holiday look created by Emma Ahmed

“I learnt mostly from YouTube videos, I haven’t taken any training or anything like that.”

Do you take bookings?

Emma Ahmed’s previous work titled Party Makeup Look

“Yes I take bookings in the London area. I have gone out of London before for bookings, but not too far like Cambridge and Oxford. I had my first booking when I was 17 in Cambridge.”

Follow Emma on social media: emmaxbeauty__ emmaahmedmakeupartist

28 £22

“2008, I was actually a tomboy before. I had to go to my uncles wedding and I had to do my makeup myself as it was back home (Bangladesh). This is when I started to do simple makeup. In 2011 I started to do makeup on other people.”

Emma Ahmed’s previous henna work

Created using Bitmoji

The Ultimate Guide for Knowing your Body Shape Stylists are shocked at how many women in the UK do not know what body shape category they fall under. Ladies no longer need to be at war with their wardrobes with our ultimate guide for each physique. Words by Pinar Djafer

aving the right pieces in your wardrobe can cinch your waist, create curves in the right areas and give the illusion of added height. For most of us women, shopping for the right pieces isn’t easy, especially with so many different cuts, styles and fabrics on the hangers in stores. Stylists have revealed that the first step of dressing your body is understanding your silhouette. The second stage is celebrating your assets. Having confidence in your body makes any outfit radiate. 30

Zehra Hordan, beauty therapist, 23, said that even after achieving the body that she had always wanted - and worked hard for - she still didn't have enough confidence to wear the clothes that she liked. “Clothes always looked amazing on hangers, but they looked awful on my body. I decided that I needed to lose weight to be able to wear the things that I wanted, but that didn’t work either,” she said. Hordan felt alien in her new shape and did not know how to begin dressing it. “I had a smaller waist and bust

size that I have never seen on myself before. I thought it would be easier to find clothes for a smaller shape, but I didn't know what outfits would suit this new body of mine. I spend so much money and time shopping for the wrong clothes that don’t suit me,” she said.

"Clothes always looked amazing on hangers, but they looked awful on my body"

Herbalife nutrition coach, Sibel Combat said, “Even after dropping from a dress size 14-16 to a size 8, I found myself still shopping for the clothes that I wore with my old body instead of buying outfits that would show off my new figure.” “With my old size, I was so used to wearing tops that would cover my hips, stomach and butt – and bulky belts too. I thought this would give the illusion that I wasn’t as big. I was scared to wear dresses and skirts because they would showcase my lumps and bulges so I avoided them at all costs.”

Left: Sibel in 2015 Right: Sibel in 2016

"I had to buy a completely new set of shoes for my slimmer feet."

When I lost all the weight, I had to get a whole new wardrobe which was so weird. It was like shopping for someone else. I also dropped a shoe size so I had to buy a completely new set of shoes for my slimmer feet.” According to body coach and fitness instructor, Kelly Grafton, a lot of women desire a dreamy hourglass figure of an itty-bitty

Instagram: @Kimkardashian

waist, a large bust and a peach bum like celebrities Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez. Fashion expert and personal stylist, Miranda Hill, 32, believes that all body types look amazing when they are dressed proportionately. Super-slim Gwyneth Paltrow and voluptuous Jennifer Hudson never fail to stun on the red carpet, nor are they shy to flaunt their figures in front of the cameras. Paltrow's rectangle-shaped physique enables her to comfortably wear volume and layers.

Gemma Ismail, wardrobe stylist, 34, believes that women should be free to wear whatever they want. “It frustrates me when some of my slim or over-sized clients feel that they should cover up head to toe because they’re too “fat” or “skinny” to show some skin. Nor do women need to lose or gain tonnes of weight to look gorgeous. That’s ridiculous,” she said. “Some of our clients have found that they can create hundreds of different looks using only a few key essentials in their wardrobe. You really don't have to break the bank. People can wear any style and achieve any look that they want, but it’s about finding the pieces that will flatter them that is where we come in. We find out what the client is looking for and we pick out the most flattering combinations for their bodies. We don’t ever tell anyone that they can’t or that they shouldn't wear something”. To look amazing, you don’t need to break a sweat at the gym or waste time and money on shopping for the wrong clothes. Our stylist, Gemma Ismail has given style tips for the four main body shapes of women in the UK. We promise to make you look amazing. x 31

s p i T e l y St s ' a m m e

Dressing for your Body Shape

Are you tired of buying clothes that don't flatter your figure? We've worked with stylist, Gemma Ismail to handpick the key pieces that will look stunning on each of the four most common shapes of women in the UK.

on't hide in unflattering clothes anymore. Our picks are sure to make you feel comfortable and look great! Find your body type and see what we have in store for you.

The Apple Type The apple type usually refers to our gorgeous plussized women, but there is also the slim-apple shape for slimmer women whose waists are generally slightly larger than their bust and hips. Sometimes the apple body type is also named the ‘diamond shape’ to resemble narrow bust and hips and a larger mid-area. Bitmoji

The Rectangle Type Rectangle-shaped women, also known as the straight body type, do not need to worry about bulges and wobbly bits hanging out in dresses. They have a slim physique with a smaller waist than their bust and hips .With a smooth silhouette, they look perfect in anything slim-fit. Straight-shaped women are able to show off their slim physique and wear layers and volume without looking large. They may like to use clothes to add a curvaceous look to their Bitmoji rectangle figure. 32

Gemma's Tips xFocus all the attention away from the waist to the higher or lower part of your body. Adding detail or embellishment around the neck and shoulders look great to bring eyes up there. xBlack trousers and darkwash jeans are the most flattering for apple shapes. xMid-waist trousers or skirts will stop any wobbly bits falling out. xComfy elastic waist nippers are better at cinching in your waist instead of corsets.

Gemma's Tips

Dress: Pink Clove £24 Shoes: New Look £22.99 Femme Luxe Finery £24.99

xFocus the attention on your incredible waist by adding detail and belts in that area. xAdd volume to your bust and hips by using pleats, frills, flares and ruched material.Mom and boyfriend jeans will add volume to your hips whilst creating a cool look to any outfit. x Avoid sticking to just slim-fit clothes. Over-sized jackets and loose-fit jeans look great too. xStick to a good push-up bra to create a bust.

Topshop £45

The Pear Type Women with pear type figures have wider hips in proportion to their bust and waist measurements. The important skill needed for dressing a pear type body is getting the proportion of your upper and lower half right. Balance your gorgeous curvaceous hips by adding volume to your upper bust area. You can easily achieve the proportions of an hourglass figure by choosing the right pieces for your wardrobe. Don't forget to keep your waist cinched in as pear shapes can easily look like the apple body type when the waist line isn't on show. By adding high waist belts you can take inches off your waist, giving the illusion that your bust size is a whole cup larger.

Dress: Missguided £45 Trousers: Topshop £38

Gemma's Tips xChoose tops with details such as pleats and frills. This will add volume to your upper-half and balance out your proportions. x Keep trousers and skirts fitted. A-line skirts look incredible. xAvoid loose-fit trousers and jeans as they will give the illusion that your bottom half is larger than it is.

Bitmoji

xAvoid vertical striped prints on your lower half. This will make you look wider than you are. Misspap £24

The Inverted Triangle Type

With sensational knockers, women with the inverted triangle shape figure have a considerably larger bust in comparison to their waist and hips. It’s not hard to have eyes on you when you enter a room, but with the right styling, you can be sure that this is for the right reason. To give your body the right proportions, add volume to your lower half. This will stop you from looking top-heavy and will bring back the curves to your hips. Celebrity Wendy Williams, is an advocate for women with the inverted triangle shape. She keeps prints and detailing to down below, whilst keeping her tops and Bitmoji shirts simple.

Gemma's Tips xPleated skirts and loosefit trousers will add curves to your lower half. xKeep your tops simple without adding extra volume. xBlouson and tunic dresses are great. xDon’t be afraid to highlight your best asset by incorporating v-necks into your wardrobe. xAvoid having too much cleavage out as this will draw attention just to your bust. xAvoid high waist belts as this will cinch in your upper waist and give the illusion that your bust size is larger.

Missguided £25

Do You Dress ‘Old-Fashioned’?

Do you dress like you’re from the 80s, wear patterns or accessorise like you’re from the 90s? Well if you do here are the top trends that have made their way back into our closets.

e have all been known to have recycled clothes, or like me borrowed your mum’s clothes that she has stashed in the back of her wardrobe since the 80s! Or our auntie’s clothes she used to wear in the 90s. Well that’s the science of fashion, in the end we are going to end up wearing something that has already been in fashion and revamp it, or rewear it in a way that fits us. The 1980s rocked! It was by far one of the coolest decades ever, with shoulder pads everywhere, along with the obsessive highwaisted jeans or skirts, with an awesome Beverly Goldberg style jumper, roll neck or crop top, with nearly everyone looking ‘Pretty In Pink ‘ or in double denim. Fashion was literally a statement, if you didn’t look cool in the 80s who were you really? 1980s fashion icons: My preferred major fashion icons in the 1980s were the likes of: Molly Ringwald, Janet Jackson, Madonna and Bananarama. Molly Ringwald was known for slaying in Pretty in Pink as the girl who was the odd one out for her awesome fashion sense. Being the preppy girl, or the ‘Princess’ in the signature film ‘The Breakfast Club’, where she played opposing roles, her fashion sense always had a bit of pink involved. However, what I loved more about the 1980s was Bananarama, and how they wore the colour black a lot throughout the peak of their career. They loved their high waisted jeans, dungarees and big hair, with a whole lot of hairspray. So I decided to take my own take on it using affordable brands; My top is from BooHoo, my jeans are from Levi, my backpack is from Primark and 36

Words by Kat L’Aiguille

my shoes are converses. I gave the big hair a go too. I found that this would be my on-the-go, everyday style that I would wear.

So I wore it another day, but this time with a sweater/turtle neck jumper if you would prefer with some Adidas classic Superstars. I paired that with a brown leather belt to accessories as you can’t really wear a high waist without a statement belt to pull the outfit together. This look has also been trended by models and celebrities such as Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Pandora Sykes.

Madonna was a massive trendsetter in the 80s and she’s made 80s crop tops look good today. I can’t name one celebrity or any girl that doesn’t own a crop top whether it is a jumper or a patterned top. I gave the big hair another go and wore a pink crop top, with high waisted jeans but this time I added that modern touch with major rips in my jeans and another pair of blue and white converses.

Georgia May Jagger threw us all of course when she wore a Barbie pink power suit, which was highly popular in the 80s along with the shoulder pads, which actress Kerry Washington was seen wearing at this years 2016 Emmy awards.

oving on to the 1990s you either went the preppy direction of plaid skirts and shirts or blazers with handbag purses, mood rings. Butterfly clips were must haves and girl power took over. You either looked completely ‘Clueless’, or you wore your clothes double the size and backwards, with a puffy bomber jacket which was pursued more by the Hip Hop and RNB scene. Another trend of the 90s which we have a lot more of today is a gothic look, that you would accessories with a statement choker or dark eyeliner.

1990s fashion icons:

My preferred fashion icons of the 1990s were former singer Aaliyah and the Spice Girls of course. Brittany Murphy’s outfits in ‘Clueless’ were so underrated. Jenny from the block, Drew Barrymore and TV star Lisa Turtle. My inspiration for my ‘Clueless’ 90s look was Cher’s (Alicia Silverstones) yellow plaid outfit (picture), However, I wore a pink tartan dress from Select with a small vintage backpack to resemble the handbag purses that they wore a lot In the 1990s and a black bomber jacket to mix the preppy look with some hip hop edge. I paired this with a chunky heel because the bigger the platform in the 90s the better, according to the spice girls anyways and the spice girls were literally girl power. Plaid seems to be making a comeback, but less aggressive with more subtle tones, like black, grey and blue which are more winter colours, white and pastel colours which are more summer based and of course you can wear red plaid for any time of the year. Celebrities that I have seen bringing this back in darker plaid patterns and most popularly shades of blue are Beyonce, Jessica Alba, Jordana Brewster, Lily Collins, Reece Whiterspoon and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. They haven’t sported any yellow mini skirts and blazers, but they have stuck with the plaid shirts, t-shirts, playsuits and less form fitting blazers. Another thing that 90s fashion loved were the accessories, but the

accessory that has made a major come back this year are chokers. Not only did style icons like Jennifer Lopez wear them elegantly, but nearly every clothes store, website and apps, especially Instagram now seen as a business platform for small or big businesses sell them. These Instagram pages have the best and affordable chokers; @honeyzuk @princesspee @classychokers @shop_chokers These places that allow you to buy them they could literally range from £1-£30. You could wear a simple goth type one which is usually plastic, a velvet one with a charm, a thick velvet/silk choker as thick chokers are really in now, as they were in the 90s either plain black or covered in crystals, the bigger the better as Kendall Jenner again supported in the latest Victoria Secret Fashion show, with a massive corset style choker. So the goodness of 80’s and 90s fashion has seemed to make

and subtle take on it. So let’s leave the backwards clothes and big hair where they should stay. x Choker: Primark

Choker: Camden Market

Choker: Primark

a comeback, but with a modern twist. I think in this generation of fashion we have been drawn more to simplicity, more natural colours, clothing and only the selective of people still experiment. Chokers, bomber jackets, plaid, crop tops and high waited jeans seems to be the major trends we have adopted again this year that have reworked its way back into the times and our closests, but with more of a simple 37

Don’t Brush This Off your Christmas List

We’ve located the best brush sets that all beauty addicts will be excited to unwrap for Christmas. Take a look at the quality brushes and great deals that we’ve spotted for you. Words by Pinar Djefar

f you know a beauty junkie, we know that they’ll absolutely adore these brush sets. It goes without saying, having beautiful makeup depends on the application. We’ve carefully selected the finest hairs and easiest applicators for all your contouring, setting and artistic masterpieces with makeup.

Zoeva £12 at www.wish.com

The Savisto 32-piece makeup brush set comes with the black leather professional roll storage pouch and premium box. From the smallest precise lipstick brush to the wide-fanned cheek highlighter, this kit has everything you’ll need. The super-soft synthetic bristles allow for an easy application and do not cause product to look streaky as most harsh bristles do. Plus, we love the slick black leather look. Real Techniques £20 at www.superdrug.com

This Zoeva brush set of 15 pieces is perfect for foundation, contouring, eyeshadow, highlighting and many more. The beautiful rose gold brushes come with champagne hairs and a brown crocodile print leather Zoeva case. Savisto £16.99 at www.savisto. com

Precision Contour Set £20 at www.tambeauty.com

These gorgeous Artiste brushing have been selling for over £50 by other brands. This Precision Contour set is more affordable, and still gives the fantastic professional quality of the originals. The metalic handles enable a strong hold giving you an immaculate application.

Usually retailing at £25, these Real Techniques brushes have dropped to £20 for Christmas. You will be pleasantly surprised that even for the price, the brushes are full-sized. Voted as Superdrug’s winning design, the limited edition brush set is ideal for full coverage foundation, concealer, BB creams and mineral powders. The slight oval shape of the brushes enable a precise application and can get right into the hardest corners to reach. We also love the patterned black, white and fuchsia packaging which will make these brushes easier to spot in your busy makeup bag.

Love BEAUTY £12.50 at www.very.co.uk The super-soft hairs on these 14 brushes glide on the face effortlessly. The roll storage pouch will keep them perfectly organised. Down from £24.99 to £12.50, you’ll be stunned at the quality of the product for the price. These brushes have been rated 5 stars for quality and value on the Very online store.