Fashion Design magazine 2016 - UCA Rochester

FA S HIO N D E S I GN RO C H ESTER

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FAS HI ON D E SIG N RO C H EST ER I NT RODUCT ION Dear Reader, Welcome to the 2016 Fashion Design Rochester end of year mag azine.

T he mag azine celebrates the talents of the Fashion Design students, featuring some of the work of our g raduating students. T his year’s collections, as in previous year s, demonstrate the breadth of ideas and skills the students have developed during their three year s on the cour se, combining innovative des ign ideas with clever cutting and professional production techniques. As we go to print the students are pre paring to show their designs on the catwalk at Christchurch Spitalfields in Shoreditch, London before moving round the cor ner to show at Graduate Fas hion Week in June. T hey promise to be exciting shows with an eclectic range of collections. Alongside producing the g ar ments, the students have been building their final portfolios and have taken part in national competitions. T his year we have had finalists in the Fashion Awareness Direct and the BFTA competitions.

T he students in year s zero, one and two have also had some g reat industr y collaborations with live projects with Warehouse and ASOS and placements with companies such as Erdem and Rick Owens. We had a visit to Paris in March for Fashion Weekend where the students were able to experience and enjoy the buzz of being in Paris at show time. All the students will be involved in our Spitalfields catwalk shows with selected fir st year s showing their Warehouse and Cut Above projects and second year s showing the collections they have designed for ASOS Market Place.

We have enjoyed another busy but exciting year and as we sadly wave goodbye to our g raduates we look forward to the ar rival of our new students in Se ptember and the challenges ahead.

Best wishes Donna

D o n n a I ve s , Cou r s e Leader B A Fas h io n D es ign

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Kim Mos er

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“I created a technique that allowed me to combine fabrics and wood together.

Working with my hoops has been a real challenge in itself as they don’t want to be contained by the fabric, so tr ying to mold hoops into shape around g ar ments without distorting the material was really tricky.”

C h a r lo t t e G o o d ay le

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K a le ig h D r ive r

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Sarah Hampson

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P hoe be Button

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From Fashion Design Rochester Final Year student Kira Matthe ws,

A LE T T E R TO AL L Fami l y h ei rl o o m s a re p ro tec ted fo r good reason. Passed down from gen er ati o n to g en er ati o n , th ey re p resent time honoured t raditions; a s o urc e o f p r i d e a n d j oy. L i ke a recipe for a time-ripened Victoria s po n ge o r a p rec i o u s j ewel , a s th ey travel from hand to hand, family h ei rl o o m s i m p rove by a g e a n d p ro g ress.

Here at U C A Ro ch ester, we th i rd year students are privileged to h ave a b a se ro o m th at o n l y we a re allowed access to. T he setting fo r th e d evel o p m en t o f o u r c o l l ec tions, it has seen good days and b ad d ays. I t i s th e l i f e a n d so u l o f final year. And as our time at u n i ver si ty sa d l y c o m es to a n en d a n d we clear up our desks, this letter s tan d s a s th e o f f i c i a l p a ss over : th e heirloom for this cour se. T here aren’t m a ny l i f e ex p er i en c es th at c a n pre pare you for the emotional ro l l erco a ster o f th e th i rd yea r o f a fashion design deg ree. However, i n th i s l etter, I h o p e to h a n d d ow n some of my own ex periences in o rd er to a i d th e su c c ess o f fo l l ow i n g students.

U p o n sta r ti n g th e f i n a l yea r, I ver y soon lear nt that it will take mo re th a n sto c k i n g u p o n Pro Pl u s and Red Bull to get through th e dr a m ati c h i g h s a n d l ow s o f c reating a collection. From a small, h u mbl e i d ea to a 1 4 -p i ec e c o l l ec ti on, the jour ney is not one for the f ai n t hea r ted . N o n eth el ess o n c e th at final seam has been sewn and l as t bu tto n s a p p l i ed , seei n g th e g r a duate collection come together in al l i ts g l o r y, m a k es th e wh o l e p ro c es s worth it. I t all happens so fast.

I n a bl i n k o f a n eye th e ye a r i s over and you’re out in the ‘real world’ b ei n g to l d th at stu d en t d i sc o u n t o n ly applies to - uh, students.

To th o se u n f a m i l i a r w i th th e p rocess, third year students enter th e yea r wo rki n g o n a fo r m ati ve b ody of work known as the preco l l ecti o n . Fro m Se p tem b er to D ecember, we developed an idea of o u r ch o o si n g th at c u l m i n ated i n to two outfits. T his ex perimental p er i o d o f f ree-th i n ki n g h a s b een created in order to encourage s tudents to d evel o p a n a esth eti c i n a space that opens up endless p o s s i b i l i ti es fo r d esi g n . I t’s a p er i o d where you begin to identify the th i n gs t h at m a ke yo u ti c k, th e f a b r i cs, the colour s and ideas – small bu i l d i n g bl o c k s th at p i ec e to g eth er a body of work, marking out the s pace th at ea ch stu d en t w i sh es to d esign within.

“ I t’s

a period where you begin to identify the things that make you tick”

I l o o k b a c k o n my p re-c o l l ec ti o n work with a fondness that only h i n d s i g h t c a n b r i n g. A m en swea r student, my work was heavily b as ed o n th e p l ay o f g en d er a n d appropriating feminine ideas wi th i n c o n tem p o r a r y m a sc u l i n e identities. I t all started with th e pho to g r a p hy o f a m a n wh o ex perimented with concealment f eti s h i s m f ro m wh i ch I b eg a n to p lay with themes of perfor mance an d provo c ati o n . A n d a s a b str a c t as my ideas may sound, it was o f i n crea si n g i n terest to m e a n d the ex ploration of these themes f r amed mu ch o f my wo rk. I su p p ose this is lesson one; have an o p i n i o n , ow n i t, p u sh i t a n d ex p l ore it. W hether your opinion is o n e th at i nvo l ves yo u u si n g c o n trover sial materials or works with u n co nven ti o n a l th em es, o n c e yo u under stand what you want to say wi th yo u r wo rk a n d th e m ed i u m s that are used to ex press them, yo u’ve d o n e h a l f th e wo rk.

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“ Editi n g

became a s im po r tan t as devel o p i n g my desig n s i n fi n di n g di recti o n an d cl ar i ty. ”

Ter m two c a m e a ro u n d q u i c k ly and the work on the final g raduate c o l l ec ti o n s b eg a n i n l ate N ovember. Here, we had the option to take o u r p re-c o l l ec ti o n s fo r w a rd or to develop a completely new idea.

I h a d str u g g l ed w i th my p re-collection as I was working with too m a ny i d ea s. A n i m a g i n ati ve mind is essential to designer s however, attem p ti n g to wo rk fo u r i d eas into two outfits is not as interesting a s i t i s h o p el ess. E d i ti n g b ecame as important as developing my d esi g n s i n f i n d i n g d i rec ti o n and clarity. And here is lesson two: know yo u r sel f. A s str a i g h tfo r w a rd as that might sound, it was one of the b i g g est ch a l l en g es th at I , alongside many of my contemporaries f a c ed . Wh at d o I th i n k m a kes good design? D oes this idea still in terest m e? A n swer i n g th ese questions early on will ar m you with th e a sser ti o n th at w a s m i ssi n g from my early work.

T h e en erg y i n th e b a se ro o m is energ y unlike any other that I have p rev i o u sl y ex p er i en c ed . I w a s inspired by the people around me and my c o m p eti ti ve sp i r i t o n l y pushed me to work harder when I saw s o m eo n e wo rk i n g o n a p i ec e of work that I admired. I n a class of 4 0 stu d en ts, ever yo n e h a d their own approach, their own skills sets a n d th ei r ow n a n swer s to what they think makes good design. T he p o ssi b i l i ti es fo r i n n ovati o n a re endless.

A si d e f ro m th e l i m i tl ess c reative freedom, another aspect that d i f f eren ti ates f i n a l yea r f ro m any other, is the pace of which the yea r m oves. E a ch week s b r i n gs a new target to be completed, a new o b sta c l e to overc o m e, u p s a n d downs, wins and losses. T he closer the f i n a l d ea d l i n e a p p ro a ch ed , the faster time disappeared. My leather c overed d i a r y, o n c e n eat a n d new is now tattooed with to-do-lists a n d n eo n c o l o u red p o st-sti c k notes - a sign of an org anised designer I su p p o se. M y b i g g est ch a l l enge was that I was constantly infor ming my wo rk w i th n ew i d ea s th at required ex perimentation and testing.

W h i l st th i s i s h ea l thy ; a sy m p tom of a creative mind, my advice to th o se wh o a l so su f f er f ro m this is to kee p your eye on the time as it is o n e o f th e m o st va l u a bl e, or equally detrimental tools you’ ll work w i th d u r i n g th e yea r.

“ I f yo u’re a nythi n g l i k e me, you’ l l wan t to k ee p at i t l o n g af ter the wo rk h as been s u b mi tted ”

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A s over wh el m i n g a s i t m i g h t appear, one of the best things about th e yea r i s th at yo u d o n’t g o t hrough it alone. You develop a support netwo rk m a d e u p o f tu to r s, friends and family, who all help you to g et th ro u g h th e ch a l l en g es ahead. And there it is. D eadline day c o m es a n d p a sses a n d yo u f eel like the shadow of your for mer self d u e to th e atta ch m en ts th at yo u for m working on a project so closely.

I f yo u ’re a ny th i n g l i k e m e, you’ ll want to kee p at it long after t he wo rk h a s b een su b m i tted . Nevertheless, as I move on to the nex t ch a p ter i n my l i f e, wh i ch w i ll sadly involve leaving behind student b a r s a n d p o t n o o d l e, I w i sh you the ver y best on you conquering yo u r s. A s w i th a l l h ei rl o o m s, the stor y lives on.

Sarah Hampson

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“T h e h i gh l i gh t of my s tu d i es h as been th e over al l atm o s ph ere h ere in U CA, fro m the s taf f to th e faci l i ti es an d my peer s. I h ave g rown a l o t as a per s o n j u s t by bein g s ur ro un ded by fas h i o n ever y day. �

Me lodi Is apoor

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A n g h a r a d L a n n in g

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O ppos ite page: Ambe r Mas on This Page: Kir a Matthews 21

M a r ia A r r oyo B a c e t e

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COM P E T I T I ONS TOPSH OP T he British Fashion Council collaborated with Topshop/ Topman to for mulate a competition where students had to design a fifteen piece collection demonstrating their under standing of the brand whilst developing a ‘forward thinking trend’ .

A m i G a lla g h e r

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COM P E T I T I ONS FA D T he brief for this year’s Fashion Awareness Direct competition was titled ‘A Sense of Place’ encouraging the observation of ever y day sur roundings to ‘find beauty in the ordinar y; seek out the marvellous in the mundane’. From this research the brief was to design two outfits and, as a finalist, Charlotte Goodayle had to produce the outfits which were judged on the catwalk at London Fashion Week in Februar y.

C h a r lo t t e G o o d ay le

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“A hi gh l i gh t fo r me w as s h owi n g my FA D co l l ecti o n at th e L o n d o n Fa shio n Week . I t wa s a real h o n o u r to be ch o s en as a fin al is t an d I was so over wh el med when I s aw my des i gn s co me down th e r u n way.

It co mpl etel y co n f i r med my pass i o n fo r th i s fiel d o f wo rk . �

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Do m inique Pe arce

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ENT RY RE QUI RE M EN TS

B A (H ONS) FASH IO N D E S I G N T h i s aw a rd -w i n n i n g a n d i n ter n ati o nally-recognised cour se pre pares yo u for a c a reer i n f a sh i o n . I t i s a skills-based cour se that takes yo u th ro u g h th e c o m p l ete d esi g n p rocess from initial conce pt and res earch , th ro u g h to th e d esi g n , cutting and manufacturing of a co l l ecti o n , sp ec i a l i si n g ei th er i n M enswear or Womenswear. You wi l l d evel o p a n d ex p a n d u p o n yo u r portfolio throughout by lear ning an d d evel o p i n g b o th tr a d i ti o n a l c raft based skills as well as new an d co n tem p o r a r y d i g i ta l m eth o d s of design communication. O ur co u r s e’s g r a d u ates h ave sc o o p ed prestigious prizes in national co mp eti t i o n s, i n c l u d i n g w i n n er o f the R iver I sland Menswear Po r tfo li o C o m p eti ti o n , B est Wo m enswear Collection and Gold Award fo r th e b est c o l l ec ti o n at G r aduate Fashion Week, and winner o f FAD ( Fa sh i o n Aw a ren ess D i rec t) Competition.

T h e co u r se h a s exc el l en t l i n ks w i th industr y through live projects wi th p resti g i o u s c o l l a b o r ato r s su ch as Warehouse, Reiss and Marg aret H owel l , stu d en t su b m i ssi ons to ex ter nal competitions and a pl acem en t o p p o r tu n i ty i n yea r 2 . I n addition to this, our cour se’s d i ver s e sta f f b r i n g a wea l th o f p ro f essional ex perience – many staf f memb er s c o n ti nu e to wo rk i n f a shion, ensuring that practice and teach i n g o n th e c o u r se re ec ts th e l atest industr y standards.

FACI L I TI E S Yo u h ave a c c ess to d esi g n , p atter n and production studios with s peci al i st i n d u str i a l m a ch i n er y en a bling you to cut and manufacture g ar ments; a n i n d u str y -sta n d a rd , u n i q ue computer-aided manufacture f aci l i ty – G er b er ; C A D f a c i l i ti es for portfolio development and acces s to f a sh i o n tex ti l es d i g i ta l p r inting resources.

CAR E E R OPPORTU N I TI E S O ur g ra d u ates g o o n to wo rk i n a n ex tensive range of career s in th e fash i o n i n d u str y, i n c l u d i n g d esign, creative cutting, illustration, d es i gn ro o m m a n a g em en t, p ro d u ction management and g ar ment tech n o l o g y. T h ey h ave p ro g ressed in career s all over the world, i n cl u d i n g : - Co mm es d es G a r ç o n s, B a l en c i a g a , L avin and Givenchy in Paris - Max M a r a a n d A n to n i o B er a d i i n I taly - B u r b er r y, Stel l a M c C a r tn ey, Rei ss, J igsaw and K aren Millen i n th e U K A ppl y vi a U C A S W2 3 3 R BA / Fa sD T YPI C A L E N TRY R E QU I R E M E NT S Mi n i mu m en tr y c r i ter i a o f 1 1 2 n ew UCAS tarif f points (equivalent o f 2 8 0 o l d U C A S p o i n ts) – 3 yea r route or 64 new UCAS tarif f p o i n ts ( eq u i va l en t o f 1 6 0 o l d U C A S points) – 4 year route PO RT F OL I O/ I N TE RV I E W Po r tfo li o to i n c l u d e a n ex p l o r ation of drawing techniques, exper i m en tati o n w i th m ed i a , atten ti on to presentation and annotated s k etch b o o k s. We n eed to see at l ea s t one fashion design project. At i n ter v iew we l i ke to see a rea l p a ssi on for the subject.

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FASHION DESIGN ROCHESTER www.fashiond esignrochester.com 32