Jacket: fashion Print 2013

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Contents

Elisa Palomino 4 Natalie Gibson 6 Goom 8 Paula 10 Angela 12 Ashley 14 Carmen 16 Oto 18 Jieyu 20 John’s Hanger 22 Susie 24 Francesco 28 Sachie 30 Lauren 34 Yasu 38 Max 40



Elisa Palomino Course Leader Fashion Print What is the print course about? At Central Saint Martins, you have all the different pathways such as womenswear, menswear, print, knit and FDM. Fashion print is basically the same as womenswear and menswear but with the addition of prints. It is a really interesting course because you not only have to be really good in pattern making and everything within fashion but on top of that you have to design your print and embellishment. It is very useful when you start looking for a job because you can definitely look for a job as a fashion designer or a print designer or sometimes both. As we work a lot with surface decoration there have been a lot of ex-students who end up working with accessories such as shoes and bags. What is your vision in this course? Central Saint Martins has been here for a really long time and I am just an instrument to help the student flourish. My aim is to take all that raw talent and bring it to another level. I love to work with the students but treating them as professionals at the same time. This may be due to my back ground, having worked in the industry for a long time, but I give them the responsibility as though they are working in a studio and dealing with deadline and essentially preparing them for their job in the future. What is the difference on the working process between a womenswear and a print course? We work a lot with print patterns, but essentially the research that leads to the final pattern is a really important part of the pathways. Basically once the students have decided on their collection and the shapes, they start working on their print. They have to put a lot of attention in how the prints will be used in terms of placement and how they are using their embellishments. There are a lot of technical issues and you have to learn all the different techniques on printing (both new and old) so when you go into industry, you know how everything works. The techniques also helps you in deciding your final collections and by trying all the available techniques, you can chose the best one for you. Which projects are your students currently working on? Depending if it is the second year or the final year, we have different projects. The second years are currently working on a team project and we like to do different things every year. Last year we were working with an ethical organisation that works for UNESCO on a sustainable project centred around Africa and Brazil. The results were really fabulous as the print and knit students had to produce a sustainable collection together using all the different materials and while creating a lovely look book. This year we are working with Gucci, which is completely different to the previous year’s project. We also have the fabulous Grayson project, that Natalie has been doing for the past 10 years. This is a really interesting project as Grayson is their muse, their model and their inspiration. We also do a Liberty project which is a very print based project and the students do things is a traditional way based on different themes. We also did a fabulous project with the British Library where the students had to make a dress out of Tyvek paper which is the paper that the British Library use to preserve books. The students had to print on the paper and we had a fashion show in the British Library, so there was a lot of amazing things going on and the students really enjoyed them. What do you enjoy the most about teaching at a school like Central Saint Martins? Being with the students. It is really inspiring in seeing what the students have been doing and to be working with them

For further information about the course, please visit the University’s website at www.arts.ac.uk/csm/ courses/undergraduate/ba-fashion/ 5



Natalie Gibson MBE Creative Director Fashion Print

What is the print course about? Fashion print in not just a textile course but it is something more immediate than that . All the students design clothes, cut them and so on, but they have to work twice as hard because they have to decorate them. It is not just print, they can burn holes in them and embellish them, so could any pathways, but they have access to the print room and all that fabulous equipment such as heat press and stuff. What is your vision in this course? I suppose the individuality of the students as you want to get something different out of each students so there isn’t a house style. My dream student, I suppose would draw all the time, be very observant although drawing makes you observant anyway, but they need to really notice what they are doing. They should not be just taking pictures all the time because it is easier. They need to have personal interest, fascinations and get inspiration that is specific to them. I don’t approve of people who just goes to the library and look through magazines and getting stuff off the internet. You can do that when you are 80. What is the difference on the working process between a womenswear and a print course? Womenswear can do a what print does but they have more intensive pattern cutting, but honestly, I don’t really know what the difference is. I think the aesthetic is very similar but you may have spoken to Howard who runs womenswear and I would agree with most of his aims. He is really keen on drawing and he is brilliant at drawing all stuff such as Galliano but we are all keen on the same thing. Maybe the womenswear students aren’t so keen on prints and colour but they are more interested in the forms and shapes, although it might not apply to all of them. I hope that the print student can feel that they can experiment whilst they can on various things such as colour. Which projects are your students currently working on? Currently the second years are working on a team project, albeit a small team, of just print, knit and FCP students for Gucci. They are working quite hard and have been quite clever. They managed to get lots of sponsorship and got lots of expensive leather, fur and fabrics. Gucci has been quite generous and sent lots of fabric. Gucci may be using the outcome of this project if they are impressed with the results but we are not sure of that yet. I know that when we did a project for Grayson Perry, he definitely uses the product but they are specifically designed for him and he ends up buying quite a lot of it. What do you enjoy the most about teaching at a school like Central Saint Martins? I think I just enjoy the fabulous students and I love having the print room because it’s like a proper art school. I know nothing about computers which is really bad but I love that I can help the students to print and design.

For further information about the course, please visit the University’s website at www.arts.ac.uk/csm/ courses/undergraduate/ba-fashion/ 7


Goom Heo The print that I used for my print jacket project was one that I designed in my 1st year. Although I used one of my old prints, this project gave me new ideas for placing print on garment in creative and different ways. Also, it was very helpful for me to learn different techniques to print on fabric.

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Paula Delvas 11


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Angela Chiang “My fingers cracked into ashes after scribbling all these little lines�

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Ashley Cheng “In our little imperfect daily lifes, I’d listen to music or bathe in the sun, this is yet another approach ”

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Carmen Chan

“Be brave and have fun”

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Oto Tanimoto “I was thinking of how I can play with a jacket, and about how many looks I can create.”


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Jieyu Du

“I prefer to make a comfortable, relaxed, easy moving garment. This idea runs through all my work.�

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This hanger belonged to the late John Williamson 1909-1996


Susie Choi “Just do whatever I want”

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Susie Choi


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Francesco Rogoli “Central Saint Martins is the most amazing place you can be. Being surrounded by the people and the energy that floods throughout the building is overwhelming. But at the same time it’s a pain in the ass.� 29


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Sachie Kawao


Sachie Kawao



Lauren Krischer “I’m really self conscious about selfies and this selfie culture we seem to be in so I took a bunch of pictures of myself and tried to transform them into something even more ridiculous.”

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Lauren Krischer

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Yasu Yuki

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Max Luo “I really enjoy fashion print. It is a very different course. We learned so many techiques that we can use to develop our own fabric and apply them to designs.� 41


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EDITORS: Mila Van Der Linden Bianca Raggi Maria Giulia Prato Special Thanks: Guilherme Magelhaes Basto Steve Yong Esme Young Judith Found Patrick Lee Yow

For further information about the course, please visit the University’s website at: www.arts.ac.uk/csm/courses/undergraduate/ba-fashion/ (C) Copyright 2013. The images shown are the intellectual rights of the Fashion print students at Central Saint Martins. No reproduction of the design, patterns and photos in any form is allowed.

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