ANDRISEN MORTON Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012
A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER
WHY CUSTOM?
WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS
welcome
Happy happenings. Welcome to the latest issue of Andrisen Morton Forum. Much has happened in and around the store since the spring issue. We hosted a grand re-opening party debuting the newly designed Ermenegildo Zegna Shop-In-Shop. It’s Colorado’s one and only place to access the designer’s entire men’s line, and this season’s collection is truly something to behold (hint, hint). Plus, if you haven’t visited AndrisenMorton.com recently, we invite you to drop in for a virtual visit. The website sports an all new look, feel and tone that better reflects our personality, and yours. We’d love to hear your thoughts on how to make the site even better. Perhaps most exciting is the arrival of the new fall/winter clothing from the world’s best menswear designers. Whether fine tailored clothing, sportswear, footwear or furnishings, it’s all been thoughtfully assembled specifically with you in mind. To keep this thought fresh in your mind, be on the look-out for our new “Best of Brands” outdoor advertising campaign. As we enter our 35th year, we have much to be thankful for—and it’s all because of you. We hope we have the opportunity to thank you personally in the coming season. Until then, we remain Your friends, Dave & Craig
Passion for Nature Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape
Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra
FEATURES 2 6 10 44 52 56
Welcome Letter Events Employee Profile: Lindsay Morton Gaiser Collections: Auction Awe Icons: The Marilyn Mystique Décor: If Walls Could Talk
DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi
FASHION
PRESIDENT AND CEO
18 20 22 28 29 34 36
CHAIRMAN AND COO
Designers: Very Vivek Designers: Sebastian-Style Profile: The Allure of Hugo Boss Fit: The Evolution of the Suit Why Choose Custom? The Merits of Made to Measure A Change of Seasons
DEPARTMENTS 12 13 14 16 24 46 50 54 58 60
Ask Craig Ask Lindsay As I See It Ask Forum Man of Style: High Notes World Scene Speed: A Knight for All Reasons Travel: Five Adventures At Your Service End Page: Enough Already
Britton Jones Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
“Be Beautiful, Be Yourself Fashion Show� Benefitting Global Down Syndrome Foundation Last August, the store was transformed for the marvelous "Be Beautiful, Be Yourself Kick Off Party & Fashion Show." The event featured fashion by Brunello Cucinelli and beautiful models with Down Syndrome. Movie star Jamie Foxx, music icon Quincy Jones and other notables were among the 1,200 attending the October 15 Gala at the Hyatt Regency. Over $1 million was raised for the Global Down Syndrome Foundation and the Linda Crnic Institute for Down Syndrome. Andrisen Morton and Brunello Cucinelli were the Retail Sponsor of the entire event.
Ermenegildo Zegna “Shop-in-Shop” Grand Re-Opening Party In March, we threw a great party to celebrate our redesigned Ermenegildo Zegna Shop-inShop—Colorado’s one and only. The crowd included many of Denver’s business and civic leaders, as well as some very well-known former and current Broncos.
E V E R YO N E ’ S TA L K I N G A B O U T E LWAY ’ S . “ B E ST ST E A K ” 5280 Magazine A M E R I C A’ S TO P R E STAU R A N T S Zagat TO P 1 0 ST E A K H O U S E S IN THE USA Gayot “ H E AV E N LY ” Gabby Gourmet Restaurant Guide
THE STEAKHOUSE MVP
B E ST ST E A K H O U S E Westword
E LWAY ’ S , U N I Q U E LY COLORADO
CHERRY CREEK NORTH DENVER 2 5 0 0 E A S T 1 S T AV E N U E 303.399.5353 D O W N T OW N AT T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N D E N V E R 1881 CURTIS STREET 303.312.3107 VA I L 1 74 E A S T G O R E C R E E K D R . I N T H E LO D G E AT VA I L 970.754.7818 E LWAYS .C O M
Living the Andrisen Morton brand.
Lindsay Morton Gaiser In previous issues, we’ve profiled everyone at Andrisen Morton: our sales pros, our master tailors and the customer service folks working the register. Finally, after a bit of cajoling, we’d like you to meet someone who has lived the Andrisen Morton brand her entire life.
Born and raised in Denver, Lindsay Morton Gaiser literally grew up in the men’s clothing business at Andrisen Morton. However, as a young girl Lindsay was fascinated by fossils and wanted to become an archaeologist. She built quite a fossil collection and loved to visit sites like Dinosaur National Monument and Mesa Verde. Lindsay graduated from Ponderosa High School and went on to CU, where she earned a business degree with a minor in finance. She was offered a job as a financial analyst, but the thought of sitting at a computer crunching numbers left her cold. About that time, Dave and Craig offered her an opportunity to come into the business, but with one caveat: Lindsay first had to gain at least five years of retail clothing experience. The apparel business and Andrisen Morton were in her blood, so she jumped at the chance. Soon, Lindsay found herself in New York City, working as a sales assistant for Hugo Boss’s Men’s Tailored division. Her next stint was as an assistant women’s wear buyer with the luxury Dallas department store Stanley Korshak. She returned to Denver with Nordstrom, initially in sales. But two promotions later, Lindsay was firmly ensconced in management. Then, finally, she came home to Andrisen Morton, where she had always belonged. Today, Lindsay is the store’s sportswear buyer and also director of marketing. She works closely with her father and Craig, and can often be found on the floor on busy Saturdays, doing what she can to give customers the very best experience possible.
CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: A blonde Sandra Bullock HOBBIES: Cycling, hiking/boating at Grand Lake, and spending time with her husband and young son. She also admits to enjoying The Real Housewives of Orange County. FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Lanai, Hawaii and California’s wine country KNOWN FOR MAKING: Reservations—or a bowl of cereal. Actually, husband Drew, a lieutenant for West Metro Fire, does all the cooking. WHAT WOULD YOU WEAR EVERY DAY IF YOU COULD? "Oscar de la Renta for fancy and Lululemon casualwear the rest of the time." WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “The store was always my second home. A family atmosphere pervades the place. I like to think our customers consider it their second home, too.”
Ask Craig
Q. A.
When it comes to men’s style, there are no bad questions—only bad results if you don’t know the answers. To get your man-style questions answered, drop Craig and Lindsay a line at AskCraigandLindsay@andrisenmorton.com
I’ve heard you should only dry clean suits once a season. Is that true?
In my opinion, you should dry clean suits, sportcoats and dress trousers as infrequently as possible. Dry cleaning’s chemicals, solvents, and high drying temperatures damage the threads and fabric of your suit and will shorten its lifespan. If you’re worried about wrinkles and creases, send the suit in for a “soft press” or invest in a small clothes steamer. They are easy to use and will work wonders. But when you do have to send an expensive piece of clothing in for cleaning, take it to the best dry cleaner in town. Pay extra to be sure it’s cleaned properly.
Q. What about putting starch in my dress shirts? A. Never have the cleaner add starch to your shirts. Starch not only breaks down cotton, it also takes this luxurious-feeling fabric that’s next to your skin and makes it feel like cardboard! Plus, the reality is, even when you order “no starch,” no cleaner will stop and clean the press. So you’ll still get a small, much less harmful bit of starch on your shirts for a nice crisp look, but it’ll feel and look great. Q. I was in Italy on business recently and noticed that many Italian businessmen, although wearing fine suits, were not wearing socks. It looked cool and comfortable. Is going sockless with suits acceptable here in the States? A. We’ve said before that almost all men’s footwear looks great without socks. Wearing a suit with no socks is a very, very strong style statement in Europe at almost every level of business. We’re seeing it become more predominant among younger professionals on the East Coast. However, the farther you go west, the less you see the sockless suit look. Until maybe you get to southern California—but they wear anything to
the office out there. It really all depends on the business you’re in and its particular “dress code.” And if you go sockless, make sure you wear peds, as they will extend the life your shoes. Q. I wear ties to work most days. Are there any new trends in neckwear? Skinnier? Wider? What? A. In the late '70s, ties were very narrow. Then in the '80s and '90s, ties got wider and wider. It was almost like the more pleats designers added to pants, the wider ties became! Today, ties are trending slightly narrower again. But truly skinny ties are trendy, and more likely to be worn by the younger generation. You will not see them in the mainstream business world. No matter what tie width you wear, make sure you have a nice dimple just below the knot. Q. Should I get cuffs on my new flat-front pants? A. Back in the '70s and '80s, all flat-front trousers had cuffs, but in those days, flatfront pants had bigger, fuller silhouettes. Today’s flat-fronts have trimmer, shorter and narrower lines, so cuffs look out of balance and proportion. So in short: no.
Ask Lindsay
Q. A.
How can I update my sportswear wardrobe to make it current for fall 2012? Grab some new five-pocket pants in deep, rich fall tones like wine, forest green, brown or navy blue. Then add some cool new sport shirts. The gingham check is back and continues to really trend for us, as do cardigan sweaters. Pull it all together with a desert boot or loafer and you’re wearing one of the hottest fall looks. Q. Is there a proper season for wearing suede shoes? And do I need a matching suede belt? A. Although suede has an almost autumnal feeling about it, there’s no hard and fast rule about when or when not to wear suede shoes. After all, many guys live in their white suede bucks in during the summer. Keep in mind, they will be ruined if worn in wet weather, so don’t go there. And if you have a pair of suede shoes you love, but no matching belt, it just so happens we have a belt vendor who will custom make a suede belt that’s a perfect match. Q. I have a drawer full of cargo shorts and love them. What about cargo pants? A. Today’s cargo pants are being made in all sorts of fabrics, which gives them a unique, more finished casual look. We’re carrying cargo trousers in corduroy, herringbone and in an awesome gray flannel. Q. Can I wear a tie with a five-pocket style non-denim pant? A. Well, my dad, Dave Morton, wears ties with five-pockets all the time, so I guess the answer is yes! Just don't ask Craig to comment.
Q. Is the traditional button-down collar dress shirt dead? A. Yes. The old, staid button-down collar oxford-cloth shirt is deader than dead. It’s history. If you’re still wearing them with suits, stop immediately. You’re showing your age. Q. Can I still get by with my old, dressy cashmere topcoat? It’s still in great shape. A. Outerwear is changing and becoming more of a fashion statement than just fulfilling a utilitarian need. That said, if your old cashmere topcoat falls below your knees, it’s time for an update, because every man still needs a great topcoat to wear over a suit. As far as casual outerwear goes, there are more choices than ever, from waterproof cashmere and distressed leather to technical performance fabrics. In the past, a guy might have one dressy coat and one casual coat. Today he’ll likely have four to six pieces of outerwear in his closet.
AS I SEE IT…
Dave Morton on “why our buyers make the difference.”
I
can’t tell you how many times customers have asked me “Where does this amazing stuff come from?” Well, I’ve tooted this horn before. My friend Craig Andrisen is one of the top menswear buyers in our industry. So in reality, every item in the store comes from his eye, expertise and instinct about what our customers want and what best represents the brand that is Andrisen Morton. Even better, under Craig’s tutelage, Lindsay is coming into her own as a menswear buyer with extraordinary insight. Most buyers learn the trade
working for a major clothing retailer or chain. But when you’re buying for 85 menswear departments, you end up with up a lot of a little—a homogenized collection of merchandise intended to sell everywhere. Craig and Lindsay buy for customers they know, and for an attitude they know. Although other specialty stores may buy like this too, our scale is more on par with a department store’s men’s department. So comparing apples to apples— who has merchandise chosen specifically for high-end Colorado customers: the 10,000 square foot menswear department in a major department store at the mall or Andrisen Morton’s 10,000 square foot store? That’s the difference. The collections Craig and Linds put together each season are entirely unique. Not just in Colorado, but I’d wager, anywhere! There is an incredible amount of interaction between our buyers, the sellers, the fitters, the financial side, and customers. If a customer wants it, and we don’t carry it, we go and get it. Buying is an art form. Look, buying for a retailer is not
accounting. There are no hard and fast rules or axioms to follow. It’s all about gut feelings, knowing your customers and knowing your vendors. There’s almost a romantic energy to it. You’re touching the material, feeling it, picturing how great it would look in the front window, or saying, “I know five customers who would love this.” It’s exciting. I used to go to the markets with Craig. The man is a whirlwind. But since he’s the buying genius and I’m the “behind the scenes” guy, I’ll leave those brutally long 18-hour workdays to he and Lindsay. It’s not as glamorous as people think. Craig and Lindsay buy our merchandise with such a unique point of view, you’d be hard pressed to find the breadth and depth of selection anywhere but here at Andrisen Morton. Even I come into the store sometimes and marvel. This merchandise doesn’t just show up in a container one day. I may be a little biased, but they are good. Craig and Lindsay do a fantastic job. The way they edit and assort these high-end menswear brands is phenomenal.
BOSS Black
BOSS 0476/S
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600
Exclusive Fashion Show – Top Cuisine – Live Band - Exotic Jets, Cars and Villas
Flight to Luxury
Friday, September 14, 2012 Hosted by CuvÊe Ventures, the World’s Most Distinguished Portfolio of Couture Villas and Penthouses
B O Y S & G I R L S C L U B S O F M E T R O D E N V E R serves more than 12,000 at-risk children across the
C U V É E V E N T U R E S & J E T L I N X are bringing together Denver’s most influential businesses and
community. An increasing number of Denver’s youth
individuals for a six-star evening.
lack the support they need to succeed. The Clubs
C O R P O R A T E S P O N S O R S H IP S and VIP Ticket
are a positive place to learn and grow.
Packages are available through August 1 st .
J o i n u s i n o u r g o a l t o ra i s e $ 4 0 0 K f o r B G C M D .
Fashion Show features ANDRISEN MORTON and a special appearance by SUE WONG.
Civita di Bagnoregio
The State is the actuality of the ethical idea
designers
VERY VIVEK!
“I try not to use big factories. Instead, I support the artisans: it’s product from their hearts and souls.”
AMONG THE QUIRKIEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS OUT THERE, VIVEK NAGRANI KNOWS THAT DETAILS COUNT! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN He’s been in the menswear business for 14 years, starting with socks because “no one
was doing it right! “Throughout history, fancy socks have been associated with the aristocracy because they’re expensive to make. Especially today, when men don’t have to conform, whimsical socks allow self-expression. The right socks indicate refinement, culture, confidence; they take your look from average to way above. Sinatra wore orange socks. Spanish matadors wear pink socks. (And what’s more manly than fighting a bull?) Socks are probably the most expressive items we wear, so why settle for boring?” His whimsical socks in the finest knits (produced in small, family-owned workshops in Italy and Peru) are not just top quality; they also give back to the community. Among the many events Nagrani has created over the years, most involve a charitable component. For example, last year’s Big Brothers Big Sisters event featured socks designed by kids in need. “We sold 3,200 pairs in a single store, but it was more about the impact of this project on these kids, most of whom are so underprivileged it’s hard to describe. Suddenly there they are showing off their own designs on the
evening news! You cannot imagine their happiness, and what that did to their self-esteem…” Nagrani also does special items, like custom socks for wedding parties and custom underwear (some with rather risqué sayings on the band). One year he did a pure vicuña sock packaged in a mahogany box for $895. “We sold only 27 units, so not a huge success, but for me risk-taking is the only way to move forward.” Nagrani’s newest division of socks and underwear is called Ugly Vix, a slightly lower-priced, retro-inspired collection aimed at younger guys. He describes it as “good taste gone bad.” “Young guys don’t want to dress like their dads, but they might want to dress like their grandpas,” he maintains, showing off the shorter-length socks he’s personally wearing: not quite mid-calf length but designed to stay up, enough for today’s shorter pants. When he’s not working or traveling to stores (he spends 150 days each year on the road), Nagrani loves to golf, cook, hang out with his beautiful wife and threeyear-old daughter (already a fashionista) and create, create, create! “I watch people shop and then figure out what I can do to enhance the product and/or the experience. If I can’t inspire, why am I in business?”
18
-FUµT EJTQFOTF XJUI UIF GPSNBMJUJFT
5IF /FX .FSDFEFT #FO[
4- $MBTT
.FSDFEFT #FO[ PG 8FTUNJOTUFS 8IFSF PVS DMJFOUT DPNF ¾ STU
*ODSFEJCMF 4FMFDUJPO© $PNQFUJUJWF 1SJDJOH© &YDFQUJPOBM 4FSWJDF
6 4 ) JHIXBZ BU $IVS DI 3BODI # M WE ] ] X X X NCXFTUNJOTUFS DPN
designers
Sebastian Dollinger
ETON’S DESIGNER BRINGS A FRESH YOUNG TAKE TO LUXURY SHIRTINGS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
tantly took a job in the Eton stockroom, then gradually worked his way up. “I took the long road at Eton, determined to prove myself without favoritism. (Editor’s note: Since his dad has a different last name, few people were aware of the relationship.) I went from the stockroom to a London-based position to a sales job, where I increased volume in my Swedish accounts by 800 percent. At that point, I felt vindicated and was excited to move to a design job.” Explaining the success of Eton, Dollinger sums it up simply: “We don’t take shortcuts; we spend on quality. We use the best French and Italian mills for our fabrics. We’ve developed a special finishing process that takes four-and-a-half weeks extra but adds luster and life to the shirts.” Other success secrets: a sophisticated use of color, pattern and detailing so the shirts are interesting but not over-the-top. “Balance is important,” says Dollinger, who also paints. “There’s a way to combine elements so it’s not screaming or in your face.”
SEBASTIAN-STYLE ith DeVotchKa blasting in the background, it was hard to hear Sebastian Dollinger, conducting this interview from the studio in Sweden where he designs the world-renowned Eton shirt collection. “Yes, I design to music; it’s a big part of my life,” he confides. “I’m a DJ and a drummer when I’m not designing shirts…” He came to designing Eton shirts in a roundabout way: since his father, Jan Borghardt, has worked for the company since 1981, it was the last thing he’d planned to do. “My dad is from Holland; he met my mom on a sailing trip to Sweden, fell in love and needed a job. He started in the Eton stockroom and is now number two at the company. I was born in ’83. I was a wild kid who got kicked out of school and took various jobs pumping gas and waiting tables. But when I ultimately took a stockroom job, I made sure it was the cleanest stockroom in the universe. My dad taught me to take pride in my work, whatever it is…” After serving in the army for a year, Dollinger reluc-
“Don’t wear one brand from head to toe. Be your own brand: it’s more fun that way!” says Dollinger. Finally, there’s the fit factor: Eton shirts come in three different fits so that they feel custom-made. “Eton isn’t just another global brand with extensive marketing; it’s quality in every way. Plus we’re one of very few companies to specialize in shirts.” When he’s not designing, Dollinger is out and about. “My body clock is reversed: I work late and come alive even later. I never watch TV; I’m out doing things. In addition to music (these days he’s listening to Joy Division, Demolition, The Black Keys, Muddy Waters) and design, I love writing (poetry, song lyrics), and also cosmology. I was always that strange little boy who studied the stars every night…”
20
CREATING GREAT TROUSERS AND JEANS. IT’S AN ART.
profile
The Allure of
HUGO BOSS ACCORDING TO SVP OF SALES CHUCK LUCIA, IT’S ALL ABOUT CONSISTENCY AND EVOLVING THE TRENDS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
and a focus on accessories.
If a man buys only three items this fall, what should they be? 1) A dark, dressy threepiece suit; 2) a three-quarter length wool/cashmere topcoat in an interesting color or pattern; and 3) a pair of shearling-lined laceup boots that can be worn with both casual and tailored outfits.
To what do you attribute Hugo Boss’ huge international success? We have a distinct, clearly defined aesthetic (modern and sophisticated) and a consistent brand identity across the globe, whether in Rio, New York, or Shanghai.
Who is your target demographic? Has the collection become too cool for the older gentleman?
Fashion is not about age: it’s about expressing yourself. Our core customer ranges in age from 25 to 45; however, men of all ages appreciate the way Hugo Boss makes them look and feel. You are never too old to dress with a modern, sophisticated expression. The broad range of fits Hugo Boss offers makes our brand accessible to a large audience.
What are the most important items and trends for fall/winter 2012?
Hugo Boss has always been modern and elegant. If we were to chase trends, we would become irrelevant, so we don’t chase trends—we set and evolve them. That said, there are several important directions for fall 2012: sophisticated tailoring, luxury fabrications
What should most American men do differently to be better dressed?
American men should be more confident in the way they dress. Confidence is the key to style! To gain this confidence and look their best, men need only understand a few basic concepts. First, wear clothes that fit well and are age-appropriate. Next, when in doubt, dress up! If you are underdressed no one will take you seriously. I don’t believe you can ever be over-dressed. Last and most significant: A man’s most important asset is his smile! Men need to smile more often...which they will surely do when dressed with confidence.
22
From top: A look from the Boss Black fashion show in Beijing; Ryan Phillippe in Hugo Boss; CEO ClausDietrich Lahrs with Tilda Swinton
2012 Vantage V8
Honed on one of the world’s greatest race circuits, the Nürburgring in Germany, the V8 Vantage delivers precision handling on both road and track.
125 Alter Street. Broomeld. 303.469.1801. www.sthmotors.com
man of style
“My style model is Fred Astaire,” Feinstein reveals.
HIGH NOTES n the front hall of Michael Feinstein’s New York townhouse hangs an extraordinary 9x11-foot tapestry, covered with Al Hirschfeld caricatures of theater legends. I had just spotted Streisand when a black and white cat I later learned was named Alexander interrupted me. He brushed against my leg, looked me over, and after a thoughtful gaze disappeared upstairs. A few moments later Feinstein came down the stairs (had Alexander given his approval?) wearing jeans, dress shirt and blazer, and led me into the living room. Art is everywhere: oil paintings, antiques, a Picasso vase on a pedestal. There’s a grand piano, comfortable furniture, and views of an attractive garden through bay windows. The 25-room house, actually two townhouses knocked together, boasts a gym, two kitchens, two guest rooms, a master suite and nine fireplaces. Born in Columbus, Ohio, Feinstein moved to Los Angeles in the ’70s. Oscar Levant’s widow introduced him to Ira Gershwin, with whom he worked for several
years. Michael met a lot of famous people, became a close friend of Gershwin’s next-door neighbor, Rosemary Clooney, and played for Frank Sinatra, who became a significant link to the music he loved. When Feinstein opened at the Mondrian Hotel in Los Angeles in 1986, Liza Minnelli gave him a party that most of Hollywood royalty attended: Gregory Peck, Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Collins and Henry Mancini, among others. “The publicity from that party launched me professionally,” Feinstein confides. The consummate singer of American classics, Feinstein’s soft romantic voice slips effortlessly around a melody with the insouciance of a Cole Porter lyric, projecting every nuance. He’s performed at the White House, Carnegie Hall, the Hollywood Bowl and Buckingham Palace. He’s been nominated for five Grammys, and is a music historian and archivist (the Library of Congress appointed him to its National Recording Preservation Board). He’s also artistic director of The Center for the Performing Arts in
24
RANDEE ST. NICHOLAS
MICHAEL FEINSTEIN BRIDGES THE GAP BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT.
ZACH DOBSON
A MORE MODERN STYLE HELPS MODERNIZE THE WHOLE SHOW.
Carmel, Indiana and owns a cabaret in New York. On stage, Feinstein conjures up an oft-nostalgic aura of glamour and elegance, evoking memories of chic late-night supper clubs from a more stylish era. But far from buried in the past, he’s a contemporary performer who integrates fresh insight and modern imagery into his shows. His wardrobe helps bridge the gap between past and present. For performances, Feinstein wears a tuxedo; at first he wore the same style every night, but soon added variety. “I realized that my songs are traditional, so I decided to use clothing to update my image on stage. A more modern style actually helps modernize the whole show.” He added tuxedos from designers Nolan Miller and Jil Sander to his repertoire, and had others custom made by famed Los Angeles tailor Cipriano. Feinstein is always searching for dress suits with “a little pop, but not Liberace.” His single must-have is a design tip he picked up from Victor Borge: a reversed flap on the fly. That way, Feinstein explains, the audience won’t notice if he slides onto a piano bench with his fly unzipped. (Twice.) “For everyday life, I usually wear a blazer and loose tie. When I go out, I’m often recognized, so I want to look nice.” On formal occasions, he chooses from among the hundred suits he owns from Tom Ford, Gucci, Versace,
Dolce & Gabbana, D-Squared, Armani and Halston. Feinstein’s diverse interests call for an extensive wardrobe. These days, along with 200 performances a year, he’s also in the wine business, currently creating Michael Feinstein Select, a cabernet from Iron Horse Vineyards. Other recent ventures: The Sinatra Project 2, a collection of classic songs in the Sinatra style that the Chairman of the Board never recorded; the third season of Michael Feinstein’s American Songbook on PBS; 13 hour-long radio shows on NPR; and a movie score for an as yet untitled Steven Spielberg project. His new book, The Gershwin in Me, will be released this October. Each of the 12 chapters spotlights a single song, exploring when and why it was written. The book comes with a CD of the songs newly recorded by Feinstein and 12 reproductions of Gershwin-related ephemera. And, as usual, during the holiday season, he’ll be performing at Feinstein’s at the Loews Regency Hotel in New York. When it’s time to go, we continue talking as Michael walks me to the front door. “Sometimes,” he says, “when I think about my career, I realize how lucky I am… But it’s really the music that’s important.” His goal is simple: “I want to keep American music alive.” Alexander reappears to see me out.
26
fit
SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.
Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).
Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.
A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!
Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three. Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the
wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!
Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five
years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).
THE EVOLUTION Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts
are dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.
You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best. Give it a try!
Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated! Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.
28
SERGIO KURHAJEC WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY
Why choose
CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.
Quite simply...
The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.
The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.
Individual style and comfort. Unsurpassed fit. Today, more and more men are choosing custom.
A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit. Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years. Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!
CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT... If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.
“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell
CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric
/ -$ 'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$) '0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.
Or, if you’re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model
Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize. Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:
PANT
ĕſſ ' / ſ*-ſôſ /Č!-*)/Ěſ ĕſſ 0ïſſ*-ſ)*ſ 0ïſĚ ĕſſ )"/#đſ # - ſ/*ſ - &Ě ĕſſ "ſ*+ )$)"đſ *2ſ.'$(ſ*-ſ2$ Ě
lining
From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.
Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!
buttons JACKET
ĕſſ * 'Ä‘Ĺż - $/$*) 'Ĺż*-Ĺż Ĺż new slimmer silhouette? ĕſſ $)"' ÄŚ - ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż *0 ' ÄŚ breasted ĕſſ 0//*)Ĺż./ ) đſýſ*-ſÞĚſ *2Ĺż#$"#Äš ĕſſ + '.Ä‘Ĺż *2Ĺż2$ Ěſ */ # Äš ĕſſ * & /Ĺż./4' ĕſſ )/Ĺż./4' ĕſſ & /Ĺż' )"/# ĕſſ ' 1 Ä‘Ĺż )"/#Ěſ *-&$)"Ĺż 0//*).Äš
Down the front or at your wrists? Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.
CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric
Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well. Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ ' 4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ / $'.ďſ 1 ſ some fun!
Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar
Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.
common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.
While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.
Custom takes forever.
cuffs
Aside from the classic straight two-button cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,
pockets
' $)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż 0//*)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?
buttons
An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.
monogram
the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!
A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours. Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!
*/Ĺż /Ĺż ''Ä?Ĺż ) Ĺż )Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ſýſ/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?
Custom is costprohibitive. With the
rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!
By William Kissel
The Merits of
MADE TO MEA
_____________________________________ Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck. Not so fast. Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend? Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender? It’s yours simply for the asking. Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the
process and drastically lower the cost. Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’” A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later
_____________________________________ 34
SURE
_____________________________________ altered at the factory to meet your own physical ing, depending on the fabric) and your personal requirements. “The difference in quality between cus- sense of style. tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or through the process.” In the case of made to measure, extremely large or small bodies—took advantage of you simply try on a jacket at these suit making services. Today the store that’s close to your it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is size and style preference, and certainly a big factor. But I’d say the suit maker adjusts the the larger factor is men wanting to pattern for a more precise fit. be different and own something Along the way you choose unique,” explains Arnold the fabric (from literally Silverstone, creative director at thousands of choices beyond Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly those offered ready-made at great service for guys who are the store) as well as the super fit and require more than details—from working or the standard 6-inch drop found on FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK... non-working button holes, off-the-rack clothing,” he says. “A Because made to measure cuts center or side vents, and the guy might be a 42 Regular on top out the practice of creating a number of pleats (or no but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a separate pattern for every pleats) on your trousers, to 10-inch drop. You won’t find that customer from scratch, suits are the number, size and shape of combination off the rack.” produced from a pre-existing the pockets and even the There’s one more reason for pattern that is later altered at the color of the interior lining. choosing made to measure: factory to meet your own Need an extra interior pocket “Clothes are very expensive and physical requirements. to house your cigarettes or most men who spend $1,000 or cell phone? You’ve got it. more on a suit want it to last from Want mother of pearl or titafive to seven years,” explains one nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget it better have all the details he loves. And the best (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricway to ensure that is to create it himself.”
_____________________________________ 35
Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.
A CHANGE OF
SEASONS
PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING
SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Texture. Drawn from nature
itself, fall’s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Layers. There’s no more
stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Warmth! Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And don’t forget a cozy scarf or two...
GOODING & CO.
collections
A 1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa Prototype sold in 2011 for $16,400,000.
Pablo Picasso’s Nude, Green Leaves and Bust sold in 2010 for $106,482,500.
CHRISTIE’S
CHRISTIE’S
IT’S AMAZING WHAT MONEY CAN BUY…
AUCTION AWE
The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond sold in 2011 for $8,818,500.
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE A rare $1 coin from 1804 sold in 2008 for $3,737,500.
Abraham Lincoln’s 1864 Victory Speech sold in 2009 for $3,442,500.
CHRISTIE’S
HERITAGE AUCTIONS
Detective Comics #27 (DC, 1939) sold in 2010 for $1,075,500.
44
Eric Clapton’s Fender Stratocaster guitar, “Blackie,” sold in 2004 for $959,500. CHRISTIE’S
HERITAGE AUCTIONS
SCP AUCTIONS
Babe Ruth’s 1920s New York Yankees jersey sold in 2012 for $4,400,000.
world scene
DISCOVERING PERU
N
ear the Andes Mountains and Cuzco, the site of the Inca Empire’s capital, Peru is probably on your destination wish list. For travelers who, after spending their days exploring this intriguing region, want to relax in sumptuous surroundings, there’s Palacio Nazarenas. Orient-Express, in collaboration with Peru’s National Institute of Culture, has restored this former 16th-century convent, carefully preserving the property’s heritage while elevating the accommodations to luxury standards. Located in an exclusive enclave in downtown Cuzco, Palacio Nazarenas has personal butlers, and Chef Virgilio Martinez presents specialty dishes featuring indigenous herbs and decorated with edible flowers. For the adventurous guest who needs to unwind after a day of sightseeing or climbing the Andes, there’s the Hypnôze Spa, which uses Peruvian ingredients such as pink Andean salt, flowers and herbs in tailor-made body treatments.
Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson
AFTER HOURS
MATTHEW BUCKLEY
A
s a child, Gary R. Sullivan began collecting antiques, particularly clocks. Today, Sullivan’s an expert on the subject: he’s seen regularly on Antiques Roadshow, lectures on early American clocks, and contributes often to books and scholarly research. Clock aficionados can drop into his shop in Sharon, Massachusetts and discover an impressive collection of American antique furniture from the Queen Anne through Classical periods, and many remarkable clocks. There’s one with a rocking ship movement, another boasting fruit and fern detail. Sullivan’s crowning clock is perhaps the mahogany Wood & Taylor star inlaid case clock, which stands at over eight feet tall. This flamboyantly decorated clock has a patriotic star motif and exotic contrasting mirror inlays. A nice way to watch time pass.
46
FANCY FOOD FROM THE FOREST
I
n New York’s Hudson River Valley, Crown Maple Farms sits on 800 acres of rich soil where 25,000 century-old sugar and red maples flourish, producing a superior sap for maple sugaring. The farm’s “syrup sommelier” oversees separation of the syrups, and this autumn (in time for National Maple Syrup Day on December 17) the Grade A Dark Amber has such a rich flavor it’s risen to the dizzying heights of haute gourmet. Many of the top chefs in the country, including six of the seven 3-star Michelin restaurants in New York City, have chosen Dark Amber as a marinade or culinary ingredient, even using it to make ice cream. Of course, you don’t have to be a great cook—Crown Maple Farms’ syrups drizzle perfectly over pancakes, too.
CUSTOM CRUISING
F
rom November 15, 2012 through February 27, 2013, Amanresorts will launch a series of extraordinary five- and seven-night voyages through the Indonesian Archipelago of Raja Ampat, one of the world’s most exceptional marine areas, on their custom-built, 105-foot Amanikan coastal cruiser. Scuba divers can view over 1,300 species of fish, 603 species of hard coral, 57 species of mantis shrimp and 15 mammal species. The islands are home to rare orchids, sea eagles, tree kangaroos and birds of paradise. The very chic Amanikan offers just three luxury cabins with king-sized beds and ensuite bathrooms (suitable for three couples or a single family) and the crew of 10 includes a dive instructor and private chef.
f you’re looking for something light to eat, few things satisfy like sushi. With properties that promote better memory and overall well-being, it’s long been one of the staples of the East. But over the last two decades, Americans have increasingly wanted to make it for themselves. The good news is, it’s not as hard as you may think—but it will require patience. Wing Lam, owner and head chef of Zen Sushi, says making sushi rolls at home comes down to two things: practice and creativity. “It’s like anything: keep at it and [the finished product] will continue to get better,” he says, “…as long as you buy good rice!” Beyond that essential ingredient is seaweed, which forms the outside of the wrap, and then whatever you choose to put inside. It’s best to use rice that’s short and thin, mixed with vinegar, salt and sugar. To save time, Lam suggests buying the pre-made rice mix at your local Asian market (or order online at asianfoodgrocer.com). Now for the seaweed. Ever wonder how chefs are able to wrap it so perfectly around the rice? Using a bamboo mat is their clever secret. Decide how thick you prefer your sushi rolls to be and choose your mat accordingly: the thicker the individual bamboo sticks that make up the mat, the thicker the roll will be. Cut one-half to twothirds of a sheet of your purchased seaweed, place it in the center of the bamboo mat, and cover all except the outer edges of the seaweed with rice. Now comes the creativity. You can put anything
STYLE IS AS MUCH A PART OF SUSHI AS SUBSTANCE.
inside a sushi roll. However, there are certain standbys to consider. The California roll is among the most popular, containing crabmeat, cucumber, avocado and carrot. The Philadelphia roll highlights salmon and cream cheese, sometimes along with avocado or cucumber. Or make up your own! Once you’ve decided, make sure to distribute the ingredients evenly over the width of the seaweed; otherwise, when you cut the roll, some pieces may not contain any filling. Then lift the edge of the bamboo mat and begin to push it forward, rolling the contents within. Slowly open the mat and slice your finished roll into individual sushi pieces. Even once you’ve created your roll, the product still isn’t finished. You’ll notice many sushi establishments don’t just throw them on the plate; style is almost as much a part of sushi as substance. Try artfully drizzling your chosen sauce over the plate in an eyecatching design, or lining up individual sushi pieces to form a pattern. In addition, consider the serving plates you use: smaller ones tend to accentuate the sushi’s own beauty. You can even perfect your at-home sushi experience right down to the music. Choose soft melodies to enhance the already relaxing atmosphere which goes along with eating a light and healthful meal. “Making sushi takes skill, but don’t be afraid to try different things,” Lam emphasizes. “Some of the best flavor combinations come from experimentation.”
ULTRAPRO
food
YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT OUT TO EAT SUSHI. BY ERIC BUTTERMAN
“It was blatantly obvious that the lack of safety measures had to change.” —Sir Jackie Stewart
AMONG THE LEGENDARY DRIVERS IN MOTORSPORTS, FEW COMPARE TO THE FLYING SCOT. BY DAVID A. ROSE In heavy rain at the Belgian Grand Prix at SpaFrancorchamps in 1966, racecar driver Sir Jackie Stewart spun off the track at 165 MPH. He crashed into a telephone pole, went through a shed and was finally stopped by a small barn. Trapped in the car with his leg pinned by the steering column, the cockpit filled with fuel from his ruptured gas tanks and there were no safety personnel to come to his aid. Two racecar drivers—Graham Hill and Bob Bondurant—stopped their cars to help. With no medical facilities at the track, Stewart was placed in the back of a pickup truck. When an ambulance finally came, the driver got lost on the way to the hospital. It was this incident that inspired Stewart to become the advocate for safety in what was then known as The Cruel Sport.
Your contribution to the safety of racecars and racing circuits has changed the sport and saved lives. How do you feel when you visit new circuits or revisit classic ones that now comply with FIA standards? I didn’t do it to gain popularity (in fact it worked out quite the reverse). It was blatantly obvious that the lack of safety measures had to change, but nobody knew quite how and they weren’t about to stick their heads out above the trench. Had I not been a leading driver, I would have been suffocated by the establishment. We had so many deaths during that period that if you raced for five years, there was a two in three chance you were going to die.
The appeal of motorsports now transcends geo-
graphic and gender barriers: it is followed in countries like China, Korea and the Middle East by both men and women (who participate as well as observe). Your thoughts on this change? The whole world is now motorized! The fact that 38% of the Formula 1 audience is now women relates to the fact that 40% of automobile purchases in North America are made by women. Just as women are more discerning about what cars they buy, female drivers like Danica Patrick are excelling in motorsports.
Many people associate American motorsports with NASCAR or Indy Cars, yet we will soon have two Grand Prix in this country (Austin and New Jersey) and we already have great sportscar racing, most notably the Rolex 24 At Daytona. Is this important outside of America? Yes, this race is a global event, just as the World Series is to baseball, or the World Cup to soccer. Certain places have become social events, like the Monaco Grand Prix or Cannes Film Festival or Wimbledon. If you haven’t come to the Indy 500 or the Rolex 24 At Daytona, you haven’t seen the best of motorsports. But many of the great U.S. drivers have spent their entire careers here; too few pack up their bags and come over to Europe.
50
ROLEX/TOM O’NEAL
speed
A KNIGHT FOR ALL REASONS
Lamborghini Denver
2012 Lamborghini Gallardo LP 550-2
Lamborghini Denver Authorised Dealer
$1,999/mo. Ballon White.
125 Alter Street Broomfield, CO Phone 303.469.1801
Navigation. Rearview camera. Homelink. Bicolore Alcantara.
www.lamborghini-denver.com
0-60 .... 3.0 seconds.
MSRP $221,500. #I0006. 36 month lease. 5,000 miles per year. $30,000 due at signing, no security deposit, includes first payment. Includes $10,000 conquest rebate. w.a.c. Plus tax.
icons
ducers as they work to bring a Marilyn-themed musical to Broadway. Monroe’s image also graced this year’s poster for the 65th anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival and the cover of Vanity Fair, promoting the release of previously unpublished nudes by photographer Lawrence Schiller. The other blonde bombshells of the 1950s—Jayne Mansfield, Mamie Van Doren, Sheree North and so on—haven’t enjoyed the same posthumous career. “When you look at photographs of her, she has this ability to express herself in so many ways,” says Donna Holder, co-founder of Marilyn Wines. “I don’t think she’s this dumb blonde at all. She was just kind of a straightforward person. A beautiful person.” Why this hold on us in 2012? Contemporaries speak of an emotionally fragile, but highly canny, comic actress. In outtakes from the Laurence Olivier film The Prince and the Showgirl (the setting for My Week With Marilyn), we see an actress repeatedly missing her lines and cues, frustrating the prim Olivier. Yet we also see her vulnerability, beauty and overwhelming desire to be appreciated. When she finally gets a scene right, she nails it. While watching these clips I finally understood the Marilyn Magic, and developed a new classic screen crush. You ache to protect her as much as to kiss her. Norma Jeane Mortenson Baker, that spunky kid from L.A., continues to attract new generations of fans. On Facebook, a quote attributed to Ella Fitzgerald has been making the rounds, in which the African-American jazz singer credits Monroe with expanding Fitzgerald’s fan base into the mainstream. Monroe’s own Facebook fan page boasts 3.2 million fans, over half of which are younger than 25. I recently joined Pinterest, a bulletin board-style website used for organizing all the web stuff you want others to see. One of my “followers” on the site, a young woman of maybe 25, had two boards (categories) I noticed immediately: “Old Hollywood” and “Movies I Love.” Guess whose platinum-haired visage graced both?
THE MARILYN
MYSTIQUE My first on-screen crush was Natalie Wood in
Rebel Without a Cause. I was 16. Wood’s soulful eyes and short-sleeved angora sweaters were magical, though the film was already 30 years old. Marilyn Monroe, on the other hand, wasn’t on my radar. There was the Elton John song, and every cartoon I grew up with did a riff parodying the flying white skirt scene in The Seven Year Itch. I knew she’d been in Playboy, and that was kind of hot. But I was more interested in the current crop of celebrities undressing in my dad’s magazines: Victoria Principal, Barbi Benton, Kim Basinger. Monroe has outlasted and outshined them all, despite having died 50 years ago in August. Last year witnessed My Week With Marilyn (starring Michelle Williams as Monroe), artist Seward Johnson’s 26-foottall cartoony homage, Forever Marilyn, in Chicago (relocated to Palm Springs in May), and a special bottling of the very popular Marilyn Merlot wine, celebrating its own 25th Anniversary. The NBC show Smash chronicles the lives of theater actors, writers and pro-
52
GETTY 1/MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES
50 YEARS AFTER HER DEATH, SHE'S STILL TURNING HEADS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
travel
5iVE TO CROSS OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST
Conquer your fears—and see the world—one exotic locale at a time.
ADVENTURES
Losing yourself in wanderlust
is plenty safe when you’re at home or in the office. But instead of remaining far away in thought, why not hit the rugged terrain, challenging your senses with exotic sights and sensations? Your ‘bucket list,’ things to see and do before you die, should include a few experiences that push the limits of your comfort zone. Via charter boat and petite plane, my own first to-do was an island-hopping jaunt through the Caribbean’s Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, where I pushed myself beyond caution and politeness to carpe diem. On the sleepy, rustic-chic island of Canoan, I cruised the Tobago Cays aboard Captain Yanni’s catamaran. At the unprotected, bio-diverse Salt Whistle Bay, I proposed an excursion beyond the requisite snorkel, which allowed me to channel my inner hunter and learn to catch, kill and eat my own prey. Underwater, I spotted sea urchins, white jellyfish, trumpet fish and stingrays. I did the dirty work, catching a few urchins and (squeamishly) plunging a butter knife into their porcupine-like shells to crack the critters open. I scooped out the sweet, yellow, yolk-like meat, added lemon, and swallowed the suckers raw. Once I discovered my inner swashbuckler, I was inspired to keep conquering my fears. Of course, my bucket list adventures may not be for everyone, but I’ve found that juxtaposing luxury accommodations and personal challenges can elevate any vacation experience. Start planning your own expeditions, and consider tackling these tasks: they range from curiously challenging to seriously scary. You might just end up with a collection of trips of a lifetime.
1
LIVE AND LET GO
OVERCOME YOUR FEAR OF HEIGHTS while satisfying a curiosity for soaring through the sky (without having to jump from a plane). Nestled within a quiet expanse of verdant olive groves in the heart of Provence is Opio en Provence, a ClubMed resort. Here, I chose the flying trapeze as my pursuit du jour. Fifty feet above the grassy grounds, I clung tightly to the wooden trapeze bar. Though I was securely harnessed with a safety net positioned below, the height was hard to ignore. After the initial panic, I let go of my anxieties and allowed my body to drop down off the plank. I embraced the rush of adrenaline and the cool, French breeze as I attempted to swing my legs over the bar in a rather ungraceful effort at circus acrobatics. Fortunately, they let me take another swing at it. 54
2
“WHERE’S THE NORMAL FOOD?” is a frustration often overheard while
PUSH YOUR PALATE
traveling. But sampling the local fare is a culinary journey in itself. In Singapore, street eats are tasty and hygienic, thanks to the city-state’s obsessive insistence on cleanliness. I experienced the organized chaos in the acclaimed hawker markets—multiplexes packed to the brim with highly praised food stalls—where I devoured coconut-curried laksa, prawn noodles, and a red bean and herbal jelly iced kacang dessert. Then, pushing beyond my culinary comfort, I ordered the oft-illegal (because it’s offensively stinky) durian fruit in its slightly milder ice cream form. The taste: oddly sweet, and then…somehow…not. ’s water towers
4
enter the home.
3
STAND TALL WITH CONFIDENCE
TAKE IT TO THE TOP
Walking on water is a divine experience.
There’s a stretch of calm Caribbean coast outside the Cotton House Resort, on the private island of Mustique, that’s perfect for stand-up paddleboarding. I cast off from the shore on my surfboard, made my way beyond the initial crashing waves to calmer seas, and paused to get my bearings. Centered on my board, I braced myself and adjusted to the sensation of moving water beneath me as I rose to my feet. Still wobbly, I stood up tall and carefully dipped my oar into the glittery blue. I took one stroke, then another. Though it was physically challenging, I truly found my zen as I skimmed gently over the rippling waves.
5
DRAMATIC, remote pockets of the world are usually unreachable by foot, let alone four-wheel drive. But they are accessible by twin-engine Bell 212 helicopter. I spent three days in British Columbia’s Bugaboos (the birthplace of heli-skiing) guided by Canadian Mountain Holidays. Traversing snow-dusted ridges, facing awe-inspiring spires, and overlooking blue-hued glaciers and glassy lagoons left me feeling humbled—and exercised my core. At the Bugaboo Lodge, a nine-minute flight from Radium Hot Springs, we stumbled upon fresh bear tracks and magnificent photo ops. Mornings brought misty snow, while sunny afternoons were warm enough to de-layer and bask in lush, flowery pastures.
LOOK FEAR IN THE EYE
where between Geyser and Dyer islands on South Africa’s Western Cape, I sure didn’t feel like the top of the food chain. On Marine Dynamics’ 12meter cabin cruiser, I joined a dozen fearless/fearful others for a shark cage dive. Our cavalier captain and his crew of experts chummed the waters before we entered, five at a time, into a metal-barred cage dipped just below the surface in water roughly 30 feet deep. I submerged...and prayed. Suddenly, dorsal fins sliced through the water and four graceful Great Whites appeared. The inquisitive predators circled the boat before nudging the foreign object that had invaded their turf. It left me thankful to be the caged one, safely and willingly trapped inside.
55
GETTY IMAGES
Coming face to face with a Great White shark, in a channel some-
décor
IF WALLS COULD TALK Who doesn’t love a good story? When the Coney Island boardwalk was repaired with concrete and plastic, the South American wood was “rescued” and restored, and the new owner of this iconic material now has quite a tale to tell. A hot trend in home design, reclaimed wood is available in varieties ranging from 600-year-old bog or swamp oak to remnants of historic buildings. Accent walls, flooring, benches, tables, decking—its applications are limited only by one’s imagination. Antique redwood, originally railroaded across the country and recently rescued from now-defunct New York City water towers, is particularly desirable because redwood is no longer harvested. Constructed by barrel makers in the 1800s, these towers were used
to store and deliver water to the top floors of New York skyscrapers. Strong yet light and water-resistant, this wood can be creatively optimized by highlighting the patterns made over time by water. Combining the interior, water-stained wood with exterior wood that was exposed to rain, wind and local natural elements takes the time-worn look up a notch. And owning a piece of the New York skyline is priceless. Gus Retsinas, a wood flooring specialist at Manhattan Forest Products, insists that the days of tossing scrap materials are gone. “Green is in. When a building is demolished, someone wants the bricks, someone else the wood.” Their New York Showroom features a walk-in closet with reclaimed wood flooring, finished with natural oils to bring out its intrinsic color and beauty. (The treatment
56
LITTLENY
RECLAIMED WOOD TELLS ITS OWN TALE. BY LENORE RICH
Each time-worn board has its own character, thanks in part to its original geographic location. Oak from New England isn’t identical to oak from Michigan.” When building their Santa Fe home, the Alexanders used reclaimed wood extensively. Ceiling beams were constructed from trees that died naturally and had intrinsic rustic character. Some flooring was purchased from an upstate New York mill that cut the wood before the tree was downed. By so doing, the width of the planks measures in at an exceptional 24 inches; there are also fewer seams and an undeniable originality. Old barn wood appealed to them because it had been hand chiseled. Yet another wood they selected was milled
CONVERSATION STARTER Reclaimed wood has its own unique color and character.
BRICK WALL Wooden “bricks” fashioned from Coney Island’s famous boardwalk, pictured on previous page.
EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN Wood from New York City’s water towers can be a part of your home.
“OWNING A PIECE OF THE NEW YORK SKYLINE IS PRICELESS.”
in 1882, their building was destroyed in a 2010 fire. The owners could not rebuild, much of the wood was reclaimed, and so the story lives on. “People are knowledgeable and discerning,” says Retsinas. “Many seek out a specific source or finish.
and three inches thick, providing a unique look as well as superb soundproofing. Is leather your preference? Ecodomo’s line of reclaimed (recycled) leather comes from tanneries that produce for BMW, Coach and the like. Made from at least 70% pre-consumer recycled material, it’s shredded and bound with natural latex and bark. Versatile and economical, it can be used anywhere wood veneer is applied. Remodeling your entertainment area? Why not opt for wood flooring from a famed brewery, a chandelier crafted from antique wine barrels and a recycled BMW sofa? It’s all about the look…and the story!
57
MANHATTAN FOREST PRODUCTS
does for wood what hand cream does for dry skin.) Many customers, including well-known celebrities, seek this material out for “the look” as well as “the story.” Prices range from roughly $11 to $40 per square foot. Another popular source for wood as conversation piece: the stock of reclaimed wood from the Marsellus Casket Company, famed for fine wood caskets used by notables like John F. Kennedy, Jacqueline Onassis, Richard Nixon and Mickey Mantle. Established
at your service
Going above and beyond for customers is the heart and soul of Andrisen Morton’s culture. We believe great merchandise combined with great service is the only way to exceed clients' expectations.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers, or even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.
GIFT CARDS For that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of Andrisen Morton. Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.
ALTERATIONS With six full-time master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call and we’ll make it happen.
HOME/OFFICE VISITS Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries. We’re more than happy to come to your home or office. So give us a shout and we’re there…
CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full, but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Andrisen Morton for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.
PERSONAL DELIVERY Whether in metro Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins or Vail, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it…with a smile.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift-wrapping and then there’s Andrisen Morton gift-wrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.
WHY TOO MUCH IS TOO MUCH. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
“RESEARCH REVEALS THAT PEOPLE SCORE HIGHER ON THE HAPPINESS INDEX IF THEY LIMIT THEIR CHOICES.”
TOWN OR COUNTRY? A look from Thom Browne’s fall/winter 2012 collection
60
GETTY
end page
ENOUGH ALREADY!
On a recent shopping excursion, I came to the conclusion that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good. Like most people, I don’t enjoy being overwhelmed by an avalanche of irrelevant and dizzying options. Who wants to spend hour upon hour searching for something presentable to wear? You know what I mean. In everyday life, despite the myriad cable channels, YouTube videos, Twitter feeds and social media posts, there’s little that actually holds my attention. This goes for the overabundance of fashion messages as well. Looking at hundreds, if not thousands, of posted images from fall 2012 menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York, I’m tempted to buy nothing at all. The reality is, I’m not inclined to look like a deranged escapee from a Thom Browne fashion show, nor am I ready to wear a skirt. All I really want are some nice-looking, appropriate, slightly slimmer-cut suits and sportcoats to make me look somewhat in the know. As it turns out, it’s not just me: Experts confirm that drowning in decisions is a symptom of society’s current excesses. This is well documented in psychologist Barry Schwartz’s insightful book, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less. “As the number of options increases, the effort required to make a good decision escalates as well, which is one of the reasons that choice can be transformed from a blessing into a burden,” Schwartz writes. “It’s also one of the reasons we don’t always manage the decision-making task effectively.” Once you realize that too many choices are unhealthy, it’s a welcome relief to find a store that offers a well-curated assortment of great clothes you actually want to wear. This removes unnecessary stress from the decision-making process and purportedly raises one’s happiness index. (And who doesn’t want to be happier?) So for those with a penchant for Armani, Zegna, Canali, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, check out your local independent menswear store for a well-edited mix of beautiful clothing. You’ll take comfort in a simplified shopping experience, great service and an easy-to-understand presentation of the best of the best. “Can one desire too much of a good thing?” ponders William Shakespeare in As You Like It. And the answer is, emphatically, yes!
$1,599/mo. MASERATI GRANTURISMO CONVERTIBLE SPORT. ELEVATE THE EXPERIENCE Forget everything you once knew. The new GranTourismo Convertible Sport will expand the horizons of those who seek a seductive looking, four-seater convertible but who also want to enjoy a sportier ride with dynamic handling. The GranTourismo Convertible Sport expresses this sporty edge in its detailing: the side spoilers, black oval exhaust pipes, new Astro design rims in Silver or Anthracite Grey, the M-design seats and the new leather tints. Completing the look is the ‘Rosso Trionfale’ color for the exterior, a hue that stirs the emotions. Visit www.maserati.com for a close-up look at the GranTourismo Convertible Sport. V8 4.7L ENGINE – MAXIMUM POWER OUTPUT: 444 HP AT 7000 RPM – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 376 LB/FT AT 4750 RPM – MAXIMUM SPEED: 177 MPH - 0-60 MPH: 5.0 SECONDS
Sill-TerHar Motors
150 Alter Street, Broomfield . 303.469.1801 . www.sthmotors.com
#R0004. MSRP $152,200. 36 month lease. 10,000 miles per year. $20,000 due at signing, no security deposit required. Plus tax. w.a.c. Expires 12/31/12.
A N D R I S E N M O R TO N F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 2