HUBERT WHITE by Fashion Forum Magazine

Hu be rt Whi t e Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012

A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER

WHY CUSTOM?

WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS

welcome

FALL 2012 What an exciting time for Hubert White! My grandfather opened the doors of his little haberdashery in downtown St. Paul in November of 1916, and our 100th year will be here before you know it. We’re in the early stages of preparing for the celebrations, as well as planning for a total makeover of our store this spring. We have now been in the IDS Center for more than 12 years, and it’s time to freshen up. In addition to the obligatory new paint and carpets, we’ll be making some significant design and presentation changes. The Zegna Shop will be totally rebuilt, so that Hubert White will be home to one of the first “new generation” Zegna Shops in the U.S. A new generation Eton Shop will also be added, and we feel so fortunate to have these shop-in-shops with such iconic brand partners. Custom clothing and shirt offerings will be enhanced to acknowledge the very significant role they play in Hubert White’s success, and casual wear will be expanded to the 8th Street entrance for better presentation. All of these updates and changes are being made with one aim in mind: to make our clients’ shopping experiences both exciting and satisfying. Speaking of excitement, we hosted the Forum Group, an independent business association comprised of 14 of the finest men’s stores in America, last May. The group meets twice per year at one of the member stores, and this time we used the meeting as an opportunity to gather advice on our upcoming remodel. Our friends did not disappoint. The photo article starting on page 7 shows them touring the store with surveys in hand, giving us some thoughtful and invaluable feedback. Please check out our fall trunk show schedule (page 41), on which you will notice several new additions: Luciano Barbera and Barbour. Both have made significant contributions to Hubert White since joining us a few seasons ago, Barbera with its creative-yet-classic Italian point of view, and Barbour with its iconic American outerwear. Oxxford, Samuelsohn and Ermengildo Zegna will, of course, also be back to share their fashion direction and attention to detail with us. This is our 15th year publishing the Hubert White Forum magazine, and as always, we hope you enjoy the issue. Have a happy fall—I look forward to seeing you in the store.

Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

FEATURES 2

Welcome Letter

The Forum

36 Food: Roll With It 42 Icons: The Marilyn Mystique

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

FASHION 12 Designers: Sebastian-Style 14 Designers: Very Vivek 16 Fit: The Evolution of the Suit 19 Why Choose Custom? 24 The Merits of Made to Measure 26 A Change of Seasons

DEPARTMENTS 10 Ask Forum 34 Man of Style: High Notes 38 Travel: Five Adventures 44 End Page: Enough Already

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

Passion for Nature Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape

Hand Made in Chicago

The Forum Robert White

Hubert W. White, Jr. (1916-1989)

The above photo from 1977 and the current shots shown on the following two pages represent both the Hubert White heritage and its look to the future. What they have in common is our association with the Forum. The Forum is a closely knit group of 14 of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest merchant retailers, whose purpose is to help each other achieve their goals of quality, service and client satisfaction while operating successful family businesses. Hubert White has been a member since its inception in the 1930s. This past May it was our turn to host the twice-per-year meeting, and we took advantage of the opportunity to gather insights into our business as we prepare to remodel the store. As you can see on the following two pages, our group took its assignment seriously! Their comments on our store and operation were invaluable: some positive, some not so, but all given with the candor of good friends. Thank you Forum members!

Bob White

Sharing Our Vision The store tour opened with a presentation by Bob White and store designer, Jim Smart, on the objectives of the store remodel and of the accompanying operational changes. Russ Nelson had earlier made a presentation regarding the Minneapolis real estate market.

A Collaboration for Success Forum members then met to discuss and take notes. Some to advise and others to take home for implementation.

Drafting Our Plans for the Future These comments were then taken under consideration as we moved forward to our remodel and operational changes.

Team Building and Sharing Memories Not all work: Forum members and Hubert White staff shared a very special suite at the ballpark as the Twins beat Kansas City. Team building at its best!

ASKFORUM

FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

styles represent a new genre of sportcoat that blurs the boundary between sportswear and tailored clothing. They can be dressed up with a tie or worn casually with jeans: comfort, class and cool, all in one item!

My expensive topcoat is looking dated. Should I have it altered?

This season’s pant styles are narrower than they used to be: not tight but definitely more fitted (and no longer down to the floor). For fall 2012, we love five-pocket pants in cottons, wools and wool blends. When it comes to jeans, fit is all-important. If your closet is full of droopy denim, let us show you how great you can look in jeans that actually fit.

If I buy only one item this season, what should it be?

We love refined soft sportcoats in wool blends and cashmeres (both solids and subtle patterns) as well as the quintessential knit blazer. These

With global warming, do I really need sweaters?

Although chunky sweaters are very much in style, light and medium weights are also trending, and these have little to do with the weather. A modern or retroinspired cardigan, either button or zip-front, can often replace a jacket or sportcoat. Today’s trimmeddown, fine gauge knits also work well underneath sportcoats since they breathe comfortably—good news for guys who tend to run hot. Cashmeres, merinos and new blends in great colors mean lots of strong sweater options this season.

What footwear do I need for fall?

The wrong pair of shoes can instantly ruin an outfit, so don’t forget to consider your footwear as carefully as your clothes. One must-have for fall 2012 is a pair of slightly chunky oxfords in suede or burnished leather, to add a bit of character. Think updated wingtips that are substantial enough to wear with jeans and can also lend an English sensibility to a suit. In addition, there are tons of great boot options, from rugged contemporary styles to beautiful polished dress versions, that add instant personality to your look.

CANALI

I haven’t lost weight but my pants seem baggy. What’s up with that?

Probably not. There’s only so much you can change with alterations, and yesterday’s long billowy coats (topcoats and trenches) are totally OUT in 2012. So give them away to someone in need and buy a new shorter, trimmer-fit overcoat or raincoat. From knee-length on up is the modern way to wear outerwear this season.

designers

Sebastian Dollinger

ETON’S DESIGNER BRINGS A FRESH YOUNG TAKE TO LUXURY SHIRTINGS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

tantly took a job in the Eton stockroom, then gradually worked his way up. “I took the long road at Eton, determined to prove myself without favoritism. (Editor’s note: Since his dad has a different last name, few people were aware of the relationship.) I went from the stockroom to a London-based position to a sales job, where I increased volume in my Swedish accounts by 800 percent. At that point, I felt vindicated and was excited to move to a design job.” Explaining the success of Eton, Dollinger sums it up simply: “We don’t take shortcuts; we spend on quality. We use the best French and Italian mills for our fabrics. We’ve developed a special finishing process that takes four-and-a-half weeks extra but adds luster and life to the shirts.” Other success secrets: a sophisticated use of color, pattern and detailing so the shirts are interesting but not over-the-top. “Balance is important,” says Dollinger, who also paints. “There’s a way to combine elements so it’s not screaming or in your face.”

SEBASTIAN-STYLE ith DeVotchKa blasting in the background, it was hard to hear Sebastian Dollinger, conducting this interview from the studio in Sweden where he designs the world-renowned Eton shirt collection. “Yes, I design to music; it’s a big part of my life,” he confides. “I’m a DJ and a drummer when I’m not designing shirts…” He came to designing Eton shirts in a roundabout way: since his father, Jan Borghardt, has worked for the company since 1981, it was the last thing he’d planned to do. “My dad is from Holland; he met my mom on a sailing trip to Sweden, fell in love and needed a job. He started in the Eton stockroom and is now number two at the company. I was born in ’83. I was a wild kid who got kicked out of school and took various jobs pumping gas and waiting tables. But when I ultimately took a stockroom job, I made sure it was the cleanest stockroom in the universe. My dad taught me to take pride in my work, whatever it is…” After serving in the army for a year, Dollinger reluc-

“Don’t wear one brand from head to toe. Be your own brand: it’s more fun that way!” says Dollinger. Finally, there’s the fit factor: Eton shirts come in three different fits so that they feel custom-made. “Eton isn’t just another global brand with extensive marketing; it’s quality in every way. Plus we’re one of very few companies to specialize in shirts.” When he’s not designing, Dollinger is out and about. “My body clock is reversed: I work late and come alive even later. I never watch TV; I’m out doing things. In addition to music (these days he’s listening to Joy Division, Demolition, The Black Keys, Muddy Waters) and design, I love writing (poetry, song lyrics), and also cosmology. I was always that strange little boy who studied the stars every night…”

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designers

VERY VIVEK!

“I try not to use big factories. Instead, I support the artisans: it’s product from their hearts and souls.”

AMONG THE QUIRKIEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS OUT THERE, VIVEK NAGRANI KNOWS THAT DETAILS COUNT! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN He’s been in the menswear business for 14 years, starting with socks because “no one

was doing it right! “Throughout history, fancy socks have been associated with the aristocracy because they’re expensive to make. Especially today, when men don’t have to conform, whimsical socks allow self-expression. The right socks indicate refinement, culture, confidence; they take your look from average to way above. Sinatra wore orange socks. Spanish matadors wear pink socks. (And what’s more manly than fighting a bull?) Socks are probably the most expressive items we wear, so why settle for boring?” His whimsical socks in the finest knits (produced in small, family-owned workshops in Italy and Peru) are not just top quality; they also give back to the community. Among the many events Nagrani has created over the years, most involve a charitable component. For example, last year’s Big Brothers Big Sisters event featured socks designed by kids in need. “We sold 3,200 pairs in a single store, but it was more about the impact of this project on these kids, most of whom are so underprivileged it’s hard to describe. Suddenly there they are showing off their own designs on the

evening news! You cannot imagine their happiness, and what that did to their self-esteem…” Nagrani also does special items, like custom socks for wedding parties and custom underwear (some with rather risqué sayings on the band). One year he did a pure vicuña sock packaged in a mahogany box for $895. “We sold only 27 units, so not a huge success, but for me risk-taking is the only way to move forward.” Nagrani’s newest division of socks and underwear is called Ugly Vix, a slightly lower-priced, retro-inspired collection aimed at younger guys. He describes it as “good taste gone bad.” “Young guys don’t want to dress like their dads, but they might want to dress like their grandpas,” he maintains, showing off the shorter-length socks he’s personally wearing: not quite mid-calf length but designed to stay up, enough for today’s shorter pants. When he’s not working or traveling to stores (he spends 150 days each year on the road), Nagrani loves to golf, cook, hang out with his beautiful wife and threeyear-old daughter (already a fashionista) and create, create, create! “I watch people shop and then figure out what I can do to enhance the product and/or the experience. If I can’t inspire, why am I in business?”

CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS

fit

SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.

Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).

Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.

A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!

Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three. Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the

wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!

Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five

years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).

THE EVOLUTION Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts

are dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.

You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best. Give it a try!

Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated! Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.

CREATING GREAT TROUSERS AND JEANS. IT’S AN ART.

SERGIO KURHAJEC WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY

Why choose

CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.

Quite simply...

The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.

The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.

Individual style and comfort. Unsurpassed fit. Today, more and more men are choosing custom.

A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit. Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years. Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!

CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT... If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.

“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell

CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric

/ -$ 'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$) '0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.

Or, if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model

Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize. Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:

PANT

Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż ' / Ĺż*-ĹżĂ´Ĺż /ÄŚ!-*)/Ä&#x161;Ĺż Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż 0ĂŻĹżĹż*-Ĺż)*Ĺż 0ĂŻĹżÄ&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż )"/#Ä&#x2018;Ĺż # - Ĺż/*Ĺż - &Ä&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż "Ĺż*+ )$)"Ä&#x2018;Ĺż *2Ĺż.'$(Ĺż*-Ĺż2$ Ä&#x161;

lining

From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.

Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!

buttons JACKET

Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż * 'Ä&#x2018;Ĺż - $/$*) 'Ĺż*-Ĺż Ĺż new slimmer silhouette? Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż $)"' ÄŚ - ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż *0 ' ÄŚ breasted Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż 0//*)Ĺż./ ) Ä&#x2018;ĹżĂ˝Ĺż*-ĹżĂžÄ&#x161;Ĺż *2Ĺż#$"#Ä&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż + '.Ä&#x2018;Ĺż *2Ĺż2$ Ä&#x161;Ĺż */ # Ä&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż * & /Ĺż./4' Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż )/Ĺż./4' Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż & /Ĺż' )"/# Ä&#x2022;ĹżĹż ' 1 Ä&#x2018;Ĺż )"/#Ä&#x161;Ĺż *-&$)"Ĺż 0//*).Ä&#x161;

Down the front or at your wrists? Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.

CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric

Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well. Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ ' 4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ / $'.ďſ 1 ſ some fun!

Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar

Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.

common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.

While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.

Custom takes forever.

cuffs

Aside from the classic straight two-button cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,

pockets

' $)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż 0//*)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?

buttons

An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.

monogram

the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!

A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours. Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!

*/Ĺż /Ĺż ''Ä?Ĺż ) Ĺż )Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ĹżĂ˝Ĺż/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?

Custom is costprohibitive. With the

rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!

By William Kissel

The Merits of

MADE TO MEA

_____________________________________ Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck. Not so fast. Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend? Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender? It’s yours simply for the asking. Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the

process and drastically lower the cost. Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’” A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later

_____________________________________ 24

SURE

_____________________________________ altered at the factory to meet your own physical ing, depending on the fabric) and your personal requirements. “The difference in quality between cus- sense of style. tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or through the process.” In the case of made to measure, extremely large or small bodies—took advantage of you simply try on a jacket at these suit making services. Today the store that’s close to your it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is size and style preference, and certainly a big factor. But I’d say the suit maker adjusts the the larger factor is men wanting to pattern for a more precise fit. be different and own something Along the way you choose unique,” explains Arnold the fabric (from literally Silverstone, creative director at thousands of choices beyond Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly those offered ready-made at great service for guys who are the store) as well as the super fit and require more than details—from working or the standard 6-inch drop found on FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK... non-working button holes, off-the-rack clothing,” he says. “A Because made to measure cuts center or side vents, and the guy might be a 42 Regular on top out the practice of creating a number of pleats (or no but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a separate pattern for every pleats) on your trousers, to 10-inch drop. You won’t find that customer from scratch, suits are the number, size and shape of combination off the rack.” produced from a pre-existing the pockets and even the There’s one more reason for pattern that is later altered at the color of the interior lining. choosing made to measure: factory to meet your own Need an extra interior pocket “Clothes are very expensive and physical requirements. to house your cigarettes or most men who spend $1,000 or cell phone? You’ve got it. more on a suit want it to last from Want mother of pearl or titafive to seven years,” explains one nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget it better have all the details he loves. And the best (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricway to ensure that is to create it himself.”

_____________________________________ 25

Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.

A CHANGE OF

SEASONS

PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING

SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Texture. Drawn from nature

itself, fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Layers. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no more

stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Warmth! Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget a cozy scarf or two...

man of style

“My style model is Fred Astaire,” Feinstein reveals.

HIGH NOTES n the front hall of Michael Feinstein’s New York townhouse hangs an extraordinary 9x11-foot tapestry, covered with Al Hirschfeld caricatures of theater legends. I had just spotted Streisand when a black and white cat I later learned was named Alexander interrupted me. He brushed against my leg, looked me over, and after a thoughtful gaze disappeared upstairs. A few moments later Feinstein came down the stairs (had Alexander given his approval?) wearing jeans, dress shirt and blazer, and led me into the living room. Art is everywhere: oil paintings, antiques, a Picasso vase on a pedestal. There’s a grand piano, comfortable furniture, and views of an attractive garden through bay windows. The 25-room house, actually two townhouses knocked together, boasts a gym, two kitchens, two guest rooms, a master suite and nine fireplaces. Born in Columbus, Ohio, Feinstein moved to Los Angeles in the ’70s. Oscar Levant’s widow introduced him to Ira Gershwin, with whom he worked for several

years. Michael met a lot of famous people, became a close friend of Gershwin’s next-door neighbor, Rosemary Clooney, and played for Frank Sinatra, who became a significant link to the music he loved. When Feinstein opened at the Mondrian Hotel in Los Angeles in 1986, Liza Minnelli gave him a party that most of Hollywood royalty attended: Gregory Peck, Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Collins and Henry Mancini, among others. “The publicity from that party launched me professionally,” Feinstein confides. The consummate singer of American classics, Feinstein’s soft romantic voice slips effortlessly around a melody with the insouciance of a Cole Porter lyric, projecting every nuance. He’s performed at the White House, Carnegie Hall, the Hollywood Bowl and Buckingham Palace. He’s been nominated for five Grammys, and is a music historian and archivist (the Library of Congress appointed him to its National Recording Preservation Board). He’s also artistic director of The Center for the Performing Arts in

RANDEE ST. NICHOLAS

MICHAEL FEINSTEIN BRIDGES THE GAP BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT.

ZACH DOBSON

A MORE MODERN STYLE HELPS MODERNIZE THE WHOLE SHOW.

Carmel, Indiana and owns a cabaret in New York. On stage, Feinstein conjures up an oft-nostalgic aura of glamour and elegance, evoking memories of chic late-night supper clubs from a more stylish era. But far from buried in the past, he’s a contemporary performer who integrates fresh insight and modern imagery into his shows. His wardrobe helps bridge the gap between past and present. For performances, Feinstein wears a tuxedo; at first he wore the same style every night, but soon added variety. “I realized that my songs are traditional, so I decided to use clothing to update my image on stage. A more modern style actually helps modernize the whole show.” He added tuxedos from designers Nolan Miller and Jil Sander to his repertoire, and had others custom made by famed Los Angeles tailor Cipriano. Feinstein is always searching for dress suits with “a little pop, but not Liberace.” His single must-have is a design tip he picked up from Victor Borge: a reversed flap on the fly. That way, Feinstein explains, the audience won’t notice if he slides onto a piano bench with his fly unzipped. (Twice.) “For everyday life, I usually wear a blazer and loose tie. When I go out, I’m often recognized, so I want to look nice.” On formal occasions, he chooses from among the hundred suits he owns from Tom Ford, Gucci, Versace,

Dolce & Gabbana, D-Squared, Armani and Halston. Feinstein’s diverse interests call for an extensive wardrobe. These days, along with 200 performances a year, he’s also in the wine business, currently creating Michael Feinstein Select, a cabernet from Iron Horse Vineyards. Other recent ventures: The Sinatra Project 2, a collection of classic songs in the Sinatra style that the Chairman of the Board never recorded; the third season of Michael Feinstein’s American Songbook on PBS; 13 hour-long radio shows on NPR; and a movie score for an as yet untitled Steven Spielberg project. His new book, The Gershwin in Me, will be released this October. Each of the 12 chapters spotlights a single song, exploring when and why it was written. The book comes with a CD of the songs newly recorded by Feinstein and 12 reproductions of Gershwin-related ephemera. And, as usual, during the holiday season, he’ll be performing at Feinstein’s at the Loews Regency Hotel in New York. When it’s time to go, we continue talking as Michael walks me to the front door. “Sometimes,” he says, “when I think about my career, I realize how lucky I am… But it’s really the music that’s important.” His goal is simple: “I want to keep American music alive.” Alexander reappears to see me out.

f you’re looking for something light to eat, few things satisfy like sushi. With properties that promote better memory and overall well-being, it’s long been one of the staples of the East. But over the last two decades, Americans have increasingly wanted to make it for themselves. The good news is, it’s not as hard as you may think—but it will require patience. Wing Lam, owner and head chef of Zen Sushi, says making sushi rolls at home comes down to two things: practice and creativity. “It’s like anything: keep at it and [the finished product] will continue to get better,” he says, “…as long as you buy good rice!” Beyond that essential ingredient is seaweed, which forms the outside of the wrap, and then whatever you choose to put inside. It’s best to use rice that’s short and thin, mixed with vinegar, salt and sugar. To save time, Lam suggests buying the pre-made rice mix at your local Asian market (or order online at asianfoodgrocer.com). Now for the seaweed. Ever wonder how chefs are able to wrap it so perfectly around the rice? Using a bamboo mat is their clever secret. Decide how thick you prefer your sushi rolls to be and choose your mat accordingly: the thicker the individual bamboo sticks that make up the mat, the thicker the roll will be. Cut one-half to twothirds of a sheet of your purchased seaweed, place it in the center of the bamboo mat, and cover all except the outer edges of the seaweed with rice. Now comes the creativity. You can put anything

STYLE IS AS MUCH A PART OF SUSHI AS SUBSTANCE.

inside a sushi roll. However, there are certain standbys to consider. The California roll is among the most popular, containing crabmeat, cucumber, avocado and carrot. The Philadelphia roll highlights salmon and cream cheese, sometimes along with avocado or cucumber. Or make up your own! Once you’ve decided, make sure to distribute the ingredients evenly over the width of the seaweed; otherwise, when you cut the roll, some pieces may not contain any filling. Then lift the edge of the bamboo mat and begin to push it forward, rolling the contents within. Slowly open the mat and slice your finished roll into individual sushi pieces. Even once you’ve created your roll, the product still isn’t finished. You’ll notice many sushi establishments don’t just throw them on the plate; style is almost as much a part of sushi as substance. Try artfully drizzling your chosen sauce over the plate in an eyecatching design, or lining up individual sushi pieces to form a pattern. In addition, consider the serving plates you use: smaller ones tend to accentuate the sushi’s own beauty. You can even perfect your at-home sushi experience right down to the music. Choose soft melodies to enhance the already relaxing atmosphere which goes along with eating a light and healthful meal. “Making sushi takes skill, but don’t be afraid to try different things,” Lam emphasizes. “Some of the best flavor combinations come from experimentation.”

ULTRAPRO

food

YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT OUT TO EAT SUSHI. BY ERIC BUTTERMAN

fall

2012

Casual luxury for men

travel

5iVE TO CROSS OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST

Conquer your fears—and see the world—one exotic locale at a time.

ADVENTURES

Losing yourself in wanderlust

is plenty safe when you’re at home or in the office. But instead of remaining far away in thought, why not hit the rugged terrain, challenging your senses with exotic sights and sensations? Your ‘bucket list,’ things to see and do before you die, should include a few experiences that push the limits of your comfort zone. Via charter boat and petite plane, my own first to-do was an island-hopping jaunt through the Caribbean’s Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, where I pushed myself beyond caution and politeness to carpe diem. On the sleepy, rustic-chic island of Canoan, I cruised the Tobago Cays aboard Captain Yanni’s catamaran. At the unprotected, bio-diverse Salt Whistle Bay, I proposed an excursion beyond the requisite snorkel, which allowed me to channel my inner hunter and learn to catch, kill and eat my own prey. Underwater, I spotted sea urchins, white jellyfish, trumpet fish and stingrays. I did the dirty work, catching a few urchins and (squeamishly) plunging a butter knife into their porcupine-like shells to crack the critters open. I scooped out the sweet, yellow, yolk-like meat, added lemon, and swallowed the suckers raw. Once I discovered my inner swashbuckler, I was inspired to keep conquering my fears. Of course, my bucket list adventures may not be for everyone, but I’ve found that juxtaposing luxury accommodations and personal challenges can elevate any vacation experience. Start planning your own expeditions, and consider tackling these tasks: they range from curiously challenging to seriously scary. You might just end up with a collection of trips of a lifetime.

LIVE AND LET GO

OVERCOME YOUR FEAR OF HEIGHTS while satisfying a curiosity for soaring through the sky (without having to jump from a plane). Nestled within a quiet expanse of verdant olive groves in the heart of Provence is Opio en Provence, a ClubMed resort. Here, I chose the flying trapeze as my pursuit du jour. Fifty feet above the grassy grounds, I clung tightly to the wooden trapeze bar. Though I was securely harnessed with a safety net positioned below, the height was hard to ignore. After the initial panic, I let go of my anxieties and allowed my body to drop down off the plank. I embraced the rush of adrenaline and the cool, French breeze as I attempted to swing my legs over the bar in a rather ungraceful effort at circus acrobatics. Fortunately, they let me take another swing at it. 38

“WHERE’S THE NORMAL FOOD?” is a frustration often overheard while

PUSH YOUR PALATE

traveling. But sampling the local fare is a culinary journey in itself. In Singapore, street eats are tasty and hygienic, thanks to the city-state’s obsessive insistence on cleanliness. I experienced the organized chaos in the acclaimed hawker markets—multiplexes packed to the brim with highly praised food stalls—where I devoured coconut-curried laksa, prawn noodles, and a red bean and herbal jelly iced kacang dessert. Then, pushing beyond my culinary comfort, I ordered the oft-illegal (because it’s offensively stinky) durian fruit in its slightly milder ice cream form. The taste: oddly sweet, and then…somehow…not. ’s water towers

enter the home.

STAND TALL WITH CONFIDENCE

TAKE IT TO THE TOP

Walking on water is a divine experience.

There’s a stretch of calm Caribbean coast outside the Cotton House Resort, on the private island of Mustique, that’s perfect for stand-up paddleboarding. I cast off from the shore on my surfboard, made my way beyond the initial crashing waves to calmer seas, and paused to get my bearings. Centered on my board, I braced myself and adjusted to the sensation of moving water beneath me as I rose to my feet. Still wobbly, I stood up tall and carefully dipped my oar into the glittery blue. I took one stroke, then another. Though it was physically challenging, I truly found my zen as I skimmed gently over the rippling waves.

DRAMATIC, remote pockets of the world are usually unreachable by foot, let alone four-wheel drive. But they are accessible by twin-engine Bell 212 helicopter. I spent three days in British Columbia’s Bugaboos (the birthplace of heli-skiing) guided by Canadian Mountain Holidays. Traversing snow-dusted ridges, facing awe-inspiring spires, and overlooking blue-hued glaciers and glassy lagoons left me feeling humbled—and exercised my core. At the Bugaboo Lodge, a nine-minute flight from Radium Hot Springs, we stumbled upon fresh bear tracks and magnificent photo ops. Mornings brought misty snow, while sunny afternoons were warm enough to de-layer and bask in lush, flowery pastures.

LOOK FEAR IN THE EYE

where between Geyser and Dyer islands on South Africa’s Western Cape, I sure didn’t feel like the top of the food chain. On Marine Dynamics’ 12meter cabin cruiser, I joined a dozen fearless/fearful others for a shark cage dive. Our cavalier captain and his crew of experts chummed the waters before we entered, five at a time, into a metal-barred cage dipped just below the surface in water roughly 30 feet deep. I submerged...and prayed. Suddenly, dorsal fins sliced through the water and four graceful Great Whites appeared. The inquisitive predators circled the boat before nudging the foreign object that had invaded their turf. It left me thankful to be the caged one, safely and willingly trapped inside.

GETTY IMAGES

Coming face to face with a Great White shark, in a channel some-

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ducers as they work to bring a Marilyn-themed musical to Broadway. Monroe’s image also graced this year’s poster for the 65th anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival and the cover of Vanity Fair, promoting the release of previously unpublished nudes by photographer Lawrence Schiller. The other blonde bombshells of the 1950s—Jayne Mansfield, Mamie Van Doren, Sheree North and so on—haven’t enjoyed the same posthumous career. “When you look at photographs of her, she has this ability to express herself in so many ways,” says Donna Holder, co-founder of Marilyn Wines. “I don’t think she’s this dumb blonde at all. She was just kind of a straightforward person. A beautiful person.” Why this hold on us in 2012? Contemporaries speak of an emotionally fragile, but highly canny, comic actress. In outtakes from the Laurence Olivier film The Prince and the Showgirl (the setting for My Week With Marilyn), we see an actress repeatedly missing her lines and cues, frustrating the prim Olivier. Yet we also see her vulnerability, beauty and overwhelming desire to be appreciated. When she finally gets a scene right, she nails it. While watching these clips I finally understood the Marilyn Magic, and developed a new classic screen crush. You ache to protect her as much as to kiss her. Norma Jeane Mortenson Baker, that spunky kid from L.A., continues to attract new generations of fans. On Facebook, a quote attributed to Ella Fitzgerald has been making the rounds, in which the African-American jazz singer credits Monroe with expanding Fitzgerald’s fan base into the mainstream. Monroe’s own Facebook fan page boasts 3.2 million fans, over half of which are younger than 25. I recently joined Pinterest, a bulletin board-style website used for organizing all the web stuff you want others to see. One of my “followers” on the site, a young woman of maybe 25, had two boards (categories) I noticed immediately: “Old Hollywood” and “Movies I Love.” Guess whose platinum-haired visage graced both?

THE MARILYN

MYSTIQUE My first on-screen crush was Natalie Wood in

Rebel Without a Cause. I was 16. Wood’s soulful eyes and short-sleeved angora sweaters were magical, though the film was already 30 years old. Marilyn Monroe, on the other hand, wasn’t on my radar. There was the Elton John song, and every cartoon I grew up with did a riff parodying the flying white skirt scene in The Seven Year Itch. I knew she’d been in Playboy, and that was kind of hot. But I was more interested in the current crop of celebrities undressing in my dad’s magazines: Victoria Principal, Barbi Benton, Kim Basinger. Monroe has outlasted and outshined them all, despite having died 50 years ago in August. Last year witnessed My Week With Marilyn (starring Michelle Williams as Monroe), artist Seward Johnson’s 26-foottall cartoony homage, Forever Marilyn, in Chicago (relocated to Palm Springs in May), and a special bottling of the very popular Marilyn Merlot wine, celebrating its own 25th Anniversary. The NBC show Smash chronicles the lives of theater actors, writers and pro-

GETTY 1/MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES

50 YEARS AFTER HER DEATH, SHE'S STILL TURNING HEADS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

FALL 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.速

Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.

WHY TOO MUCH IS TOO MUCH. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

“RESEARCH REVEALS THAT PEOPLE SCORE HIGHER ON THE HAPPINESS INDEX IF THEY LIMIT THEIR CHOICES.”

TOWN OR COUNTRY? A look from Thom Browne’s fall/winter 2012 collection

GETTY

end page

ENOUGH ALREADY!

On a recent shopping excursion, I came to the conclusion that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good. Like most people, I don’t enjoy being overwhelmed by an avalanche of irrelevant and dizzying options. Who wants to spend hour upon hour searching for something presentable to wear? You know what I mean. In everyday life, despite the myriad cable channels, YouTube videos, Twitter feeds and social media posts, there’s little that actually holds my attention. This goes for the overabundance of fashion messages as well. Looking at hundreds, if not thousands, of posted images from fall 2012 menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York, I’m tempted to buy nothing at all. The reality is, I’m not inclined to look like a deranged escapee from a Thom Browne fashion show, nor am I ready to wear a skirt. All I really want are some nice-looking, appropriate, slightly slimmer-cut suits and sportcoats to make me look somewhat in the know. As it turns out, it’s not just me: Experts confirm that drowning in decisions is a symptom of society’s current excesses. This is well documented in psychologist Barry Schwartz’s insightful book, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less. “As the number of options increases, the effort required to make a good decision escalates as well, which is one of the reasons that choice can be transformed from a blessing into a burden,” Schwartz writes. “It’s also one of the reasons we don’t always manage the decision-making task effectively.” Once you realize that too many choices are unhealthy, it’s a welcome relief to find a store that offers a well-curated assortment of great clothes you actually want to wear. This removes unnecessary stress from the decision-making process and purportedly raises one’s happiness index. (And who doesn’t want to be happier?) So for those with a penchant for Armani, Zegna, Canali, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, check out your local independent menswear store for a well-edited mix of beautiful clothing. You’ll take comfort in a simplified shopping experience, great service and an easy-to-understand presentation of the best of the best. “Can one desire too much of a good thing?” ponders William Shakespeare in As You Like It. And the answer is, emphatically, yes!

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