ANDRISEN MORTON Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2013
SPRING 2013 FASHION:
SHADES OF BLUE THE NEW RULES OF BUSINESS CASUAL ROAD TRIP!
Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance Our promise is to deliver perfectly tailored apparel designed for your individual character from an unparalleled collection of Zegna fabrics. From personalized suits to entire wardrobes.
welcome
MORE SPRING IN OUR STEP More hours of light, more sunshine to warm us—slowly but surely, spring, that wonderful season, is coming. Spring represents newness, and you’ll find plenty of it here at Andrisen Morton. We’ve assembled a stellar spring/summer collection of tailored clothing, sportswear, footwear, accessories and furnishings that reflects Colorado’s unique take on style, and yours. We’re entering this new sartorial season with a little extra bounce in our step. Because in looking back at 2012, we discovered our holiday selling season was the biggest ever! With 35 holiday seasons under our belts, that’s really quite an accomplishment. Words cannot adequately express our appreciation, but when you stop in the store, we’ll sure give it a try. So welcome back spring. And allow us the pleasure of welcoming you once again. Warmest regards,
Dave & Craig
www.brunellocucinelli.com
Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488
FEATURES 2 8
10 12 18 52
Welcome Letter John Lynch: Developing Young Leaders, Enriching Lives Larry Mueller: Six-Star Luxury, Seven-Star Guy Interview: Joe Beardemphl Road Trip: Robert Talbott Music: Rodgers & Hammerstein Revisited
FASHION 16 22 26 28 30 38
First Person: Turning Back Time Profile: Hamilton Shirts Books: A Sprig of Ivy Style: Color Cues 6 New Rules for Business Casual 26 Shades of Blue
DEPARTMENTS 6 14 24 44 48 54 56
Ask Craig & Lindsay As I See It Man of Style: Philippe Cousteau World Scene Travel: A Grape Night’s Sleep Spirits: Bespoke Booze At Your Service
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
SPRING/SUMMER 2013
ask craig & lindsay
AT MARKET with Craig & Lindsay In this season’s column, we’re going to dispel all those myths that attending the men’s fashion market in New York City is all swanky parties, fashion shows, Champagne and clubbing. We wish! Here’s the real, not-so-glamorous story.
Every January, we attend the men’s fashion market in New York City for 7 to 10 days. It sounds exciting, right? And it is. But not in ways most people think. In reality, when we’re “at market,” we work hard to determine whose merchandise to offer during the upcoming season. As it’s not all held in one convention center or merchandise mart, our typical day is 12 to 14 hours or more of schlepping all over the city. We visit all the brands’ “trade” showrooms to review their latest collections, touch the fabric, take lots of pictures and notes, attend meetings, figure and refigure our budgets, discuss what we’ve seen, and if we’re lucky, maybe enjoy a late business dinner with one of our signature brands or Forum colleagues. Then we collapse and do it again the next day. It’s a brutal schedule, but when you love the clothing business like we do, it really is quite invigorating. Now, some smaller brands don’t have showroom homes in New York, so
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we see their lines at trade show events like MRket, ENK or Project. These events are typically held in large halls or convention facilities, which makes it far more convenient to see everyone, but it’s no less work. Large brands also exhibit at these events.
The process
of assembling each season’s collection for the store is arduous. With so many brands to visit, so many collections to review, and hundreds and hundreds of swatches of material to consider, it is overwhelming at times. But exciting! In a way, the buying process is an extension of our customer service. We know our customers: what they want, their taste, what they’d look good in and so on. That’s the beauty of being a specialty store. We can do special things for customers. So when we’re looking at a particular line or item, we’re actually thinking of customers who we know would love it. This helps shape our buying decisions and the collections we put together for each season.
One of the most difficult things is buying nine months in advance. A lot of things can change economically in nine months, and we saw it in ’08 and ’09. It’s a big risk because when you order it, you own it. Plus, our budgets must be set that far in advance. People don’t realize how much time we spend putting together spreadsheets, re-working the numbers, cutting this, adding that— it’s a lot of math and collaboration. And yet, so much of our success depends on the intuition that only comes with over three decades of experience. As hard as we work when we’re in New York, the real work begins when we return to Denver. Because for the most part, we don’t actually order the clothing while we’re in New York. We bring all the pictures and notes we’ve taken back to Denver, then sit down with Dave and the rest of the staff to get all their input. Only then do we make our decisions and create Andrisen Morton’s collection edited from all the merchandise we’ve seen.
Even with all our experience, preparation and hard work, we “miss” sometimes. Maybe we bought too many of some items, or the wrong color or pattern. But if we were perfect in how and what we bought for the store, we wouldn’t need to have sales. It’s the harsh reality of the clothing business. Another important consideration beyond buying the right merchandise is making sure it’s delivered so that new product is always arriving at the store. The store looks fresh and the sales team loves selling new items far more than something they’ve seen
every day. For the most part, we get new arrivals in the store on a monthly basis. There’s an old saying in the business: “Fresh Sells First.” Up until 15 years ago, you’d go to market once, buy for the season and be done. So twice a year and that was that. Today, we buy four to six times a year and manage inventory on a daily basis. We constantly evaluate our inventory levels to determine what’s selling, and what’s not. This is especially important on the sportswear side of the business.
Our relationships with vendors are just as important as our relationships with our customers. For example, we never sell our customers for the sake of selling. Otherwise, customers wouldn’t remain customers very long. The same is true with our vendors. Sure they want us to purchase as much as possible, but they know that as a specialty store, we’re more about quality than quantity. If we’re not
successful selling their merchandise, then we can’t buy more. We sit down together, review what we bought and how well it sold, and work together to be successful in the upcoming season. We are very fortunate to have great partnerships with our vendors and consider them friends. This is perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of being at market—going out with our friends to relax after a very long day. When all is said and done, attending the men’s market is an exhilarating experience as we work to bring our customers a thoughtful collection of the best of the best in menswear. It’s a grueling week or so, made more enjoyable by seeing our friends and industry colleagues.
And if you find out who’s throwing the swanky parties, please let us know!
profile
JOHN LYNCH: DEVELOPING YOUNG LEADERS, ENRICHING LIVES W
hen John Lynch joined the Denver Broncos in 2004, he was already known as one of the best strong safeties to ever play pro football. A Super Bowl champion with the Tampa Bay Buccaneers, a five-time Pro Bowler (plus four more with the Broncos) and four-time All-Pro, John’s hard work, intelligence, humility and ferocious hits were legendary. In fact, NFL Films featured him as one of the “Top Ten Most Feared Tacklers” in NFL history, alongside Dick Butkus, Lawrence Taylor, Jack Tatum, Ronnie Lott and Jack Lambert.
What most people in Denver didn’t know about was John’s long-standing commitment to helping others. “Both [my wife] Linda and I were raised by families who believed that giving back, philanthropy and giving of yourself wasn’t just a nice thing to do,” he reveals, “it was a responsibility.” After being drafted in the third round by Tampa Bay, he and Linda began supporting local Tampa charities. Once he signed a longterm contract with the Bucs, the couple wanted to make an even bigger impact, and the John Lynch Foundation (JLF) was born.
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Giving more, doing more. Founded in 2000, the JLF’s mission is to instill in young people the qualities they need to become leaders in their communities. Through its various programs like Salute the Stars, they provide education and athleticbased incentives for young children, create recognition and rewards for student-athletes, fund scholarships for high school student-athletes who excel in their communities, their sports and in the classroom, and offer ways to keep coaches and teachers motivated. “Because Linda and I were student-athletes (she was a top tennis player at Southern Cal), we realized many of the life lessons we learned—teamwork, self-esteem, time management, responsibility and determination— are lessons all young people can use to reach any goal.” John also shared the family’s involvement in supporting the Boys & Girls Clubs of Metro Denver. John grew up in a Boys & Girls Club and is a big believer in what the organization stands for and what it does for kids. Among other things, the Lynches throw a holiday party for some of the neediest Boys & Girls Clubs members as well as kids with a parent deployed in the military. “We see a play — this season it was Irving Berlin’s White Christmas — go out to a nice dinner, and then make their Christmas wish-list come true. To see the smiles on their faces is pretty special.”
John meets Craig. Friendship ensues. John knew only one person in Denver when he was signed by the Broncos: fellow Stanford alum John Elway. Plus both were two-sport stars at the university in baseball and football, and had had the same high school football coach. “John Elway was real kind when I got to
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Denver and reached out to me,” recalls John. “And when you hang around with Elway, you’re bound to meet his buddy Craig Andrisen.” The two quickly hit it off. As the friendship grew, John enlisted Craig to be a JLF board member and says he “may be the most active board member we have” in terms of filling tables, raising funds and so on. Craig also serves as the auctioneer for the Foundation’s annual Salute the Stars VIP benefit dinner. “Most importantly,” says John, “Craig has become a great friend of the family, has a tremendous sense of humor and behind all that, has a tremendous heart.” Beyond their personal friendship, Craig and the store play a small but crucial role in John’s second career as an NFL commentator on Fox Sports. While John is a man with personal style, he readily admits mixing and matching outfits to wear on TV each weekend is a challenge. So we put together a “look book” that includes all the clothing he’s purchased at Andrisen Morton to help him make the right choices. A quick glance and he knows which shirts go with which ties go with which slacks with which sportcoats, suits and shoes. And truth be told, we do the same for many of our customers. We’re proud to call John and Linda Lynch friends and prouder still to help support the wonderful work of the John Lynch Foundation.
If you’d like to get involved or learn more, visit JohnLynchFoundation.org or call 1-866-JLF-4747. Tell ’em Craig sent you!
interview
A conversation with Larry Mueller
SIX-STAR LUXURY, SEVEN-STAR GUY! FORUM: How did the idea of Cuvée
As founder/CEO of Cuvée Ventures and its sister company, Cuvée Escapes, Larry Mueller is no stranger to success. A former high-level IBM executive and Silicon Valley CEO who took several tech companies public, Larry’s career successes have afforded him opportunities few will ever experience.
Ventures come to you? LM: The Cuvée concept is based on answering a very simple question: Can you make money from an investment that also has an incredible lifestyle component? I was looking not only for a return on investment, but on what I like to call a 'return on life.' The answer was Cuvée.
FORUM: Why do you think Cuvée is so successful? LM: Unlike the destination club model, where you pay for membership but own nothing, Cuvée investors own the underlying real estate through a private equity fund. They
Soft-spoken, yet with passion in his voice, Larry recently talked with Andrisen Morton Forum about his company, his life and his dedication to giving back to the community.
1 FORUM
get 30 days of use per year at no cost, a choice of top destinations, and make a return, too. For instance, we sold our first NYC property, 15 Central Park West, and realized an 82% profit. All proceeds went to the investors. And now, they enjoy a new Manhattan penthouse in West Chelsea. When not in use, the properties are rented through Cuvée Escapes to celebrities, business executives, rock stars and sports figures like Tiger Woods, Justin Timberlake, Cameron Diaz—people who have no issue spending $8 to $12k a night. This defrays the costs required to maintain such sophisticated properties.
FORUM: Describe the experience of a Cuvée vacation. LM: First of all, these are six-star properties with six-star services. And the locations are, without exception, breathtaking. Guests experience a true sense of arrival, as we welcome them with Champagne and hors d’oeuvres. Or perhaps it’s martinis in Manhattan, or mai tais in Hawaii! We have seen guests become visibly moved when they cross the threshold to Cuvée. Each family is assigned a personal concierge who does extensive pre-arrival planning. We know our guests’ likes, dislikes, wants and needs for their visit, and we fulfill them. A Cuvée vacation experience is unlike any other. FORUM: How did you get involved with the Boys & Girls Clubs of Metro Denver? LM: I was looking to be more involved in the community and Craig Andrisen introduced me to BGCMD CEO John Arigoni. I spent a lot of time talking with John, visiting clubs, and saw the profound positive impact they have on Denver’s disadvantaged youth. I wanted to be part of it. FORUM: And it prompted you to create a big fundraiser for Boys & Girls Clubs of Metro Denver: Flight to Luxury. LM: Yes. Last year’s event raised nearly $500,000 for the organization and we want to raise $1 million this year. By the way, the 4th annual Flight to Luxury Hangar Charity Event will be held on Friday, September 20, 2013. Mark your calendars!
FORUM: Anything you’d like to add about your relationship with Craig and the store? LM: Craig and I are good friends. We are both small town boys from the upper Midwest raised with similar core values. We also love golf and travel. And, he stepped right up to support Flight to Luxury. And, the store stepped up to support Flight to Luxury as a fashion show sponsor. The way Craig, Dave and all the folks at the store take such interest in and care of their customers parallels the Cuvée approach. The similarities between the two organizations are striking. FORUM: And finally, any travel advice for those of us who are not Cuvée investors? LM: Don’t make travel decisions based on what you see on the internet. The photos, the reviews, all of it should be ignored, as much of it is false. Always try to get personal recommendations from people you know and trust. Tap into your networks of friends, family, colleagues and business associates.
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Cuvée has locations in Vail, Aspen, Beaver Creek, Napa Valley, Tuscany, Manhattan, St. Barth's, Los Cabos, Hawaii and the Bahamas. Learn more at CuveeVentures.com.
interview
More than bringing the world’s finest men’s clothing to Denver, Andrisen Morton is known for above-and-beyond personal service that transforms customers into friends. One of those working behind the scenes to ensure this happens is Joe Beardemphl.
YOU CAN GO HOME AGAIN As close to a Colorado native as one can get (without actually being born here), Joe was an infant when his family moved to Colorado Springs. Growing up, Joe envisioned becoming a politician. He started in retail management right after high school, spending many years at Kinney Shoes, Edison Brothers and then Larry’s Shoes in Cherry Creek. He joined Andrisen Morton in 1999 running the men’s shoe department, then moved to our women’s store until 2009. Since then, he’s worked at Macy’s and Jos. A. Bank, but came home to Andrisen Morton in the summer of 2012 as our shipping and logistics expert. And we’re so glad to have him back!
CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Denis Leary HOBBY: A single dad, Joe’s “hobby” is spending all his time with his 11-year-old son FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Seattle, and he’s making plans to visit Costa Rica KNOWN FOR MAKING: Spicy, chunky Italian meat sauce from scratch, and for grilling WHY ANDRISEN MORTON IS SPECIAL: “Everybody gives their all to provide the ultimate customer service. The idea of being a family extends not only to the employees, but also to our customers.”
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The Evolution of Perfection.
as I see it...
Dave Morton explains why men should dress well.”
YOU ONLY HAVE ‘‘ ONE CHANCE TO MAKE A FIRST IMPRESSION Dressing the American male has changed dramatically since we opened 34 years ago. Back in the day, when a guy wanted to make a good impression, he wore a suit, shirt, tie, polished shoes. Easy. The next step was a navy blazer, white button-down shirt, repp tie and gray pants. Sportswear was essentially khaki pants, a Lacoste shirt and penny loafers. Today, there’s still very highquality tailored clothing, sportcoats, blazers and slacks. But now there’s the whole world of denim, 5-pocket pants and related sportswear. Plus, designers like Brunello Cucinelli are almost reinventing sport and casual wear. So it’s easier for a guy to choose to dress well today, because there are so many more options. Which makes it more complicated; guys don’t do well with too many choices. That’s where we come in.
Exceptional is a choice. Average is easy. Even if you’re just out at a sports bar watching the game with buddies, you can choose not to wear a cruddy pair of jeans and worn T-shirt. Choosing to wear AG denim and a cool Agave shirt says you care about the way you look. Men are funny. Although they
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don’t want to admit to being concerned about how they dress, many are. Those that aren’t, should be. It’s important. A well-dressed man feels better about himself than a guy who just goes for average. How you look is the first message you send to colleagues, clients, even your family and friends every day. We’re not saying a guy needs the best, most current “fashion” to pull this off. It just so happens that we sell reasonably classic, high-quality clothing a guy can look good wearing over time.
Dressing well shows respect. It was really visionaries like Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Ermenegildo Zegna and other designers who expanded menswear options into lifestyle choices. They made it cool to care about your appearance. How you dress in a given situation—sports bar, client’s office, out with your wife, the golf course, even at the grocery store—expresses who you are on that given day. Just dress for the situation. There’s no rule against looking good at the grocery store.
Final thought: never ever apologize for being “over-dressed.”
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first person
“Wait ’til you hit 35! I used to look like you, but turn 35 and it’s all downhill…’’ In my 20s, I received this warning, time and again, from a bevy of men (usually those wearing large-size pleated trousers). I’d laugh at such an admonition from these uncool middle-aged guys: Who were they to imply I’d automatically fall victim to a similar metabolic demise? I’d been slim my whole life, after all. But then I neared 35. My job became stressful and my body tired from daily workouts. I allowed myself the occasional “luxuries” of skipping the gym, eating fast food and splurging on caramel mocha lattes. Unfortunately, these occasional luxuries soon became the norm: on my 35th birthday, I realized that I looked... well, 35! My hair was thinner, my body thicker. Once-comfortable pants were now depressingly tight, so I exchanged them for boring slacks with more “room in the leg.” T-shirts suddenly made me look like an unemployed boy band member, so I switched to plain woven button-downs. I wore vertical stripes. I went through a sweater-vest phase. And as I looked in the mir-
Reclaiming my youth... and my wardrobe! By David Thomas Moore
ror, I heard a resounding chorus of I told you so’s. Something had to change. Like a svelte phoenix, I resolved to rise from the greasy-fried ashes and return to my former glory! (Cue ’80s movie montage—minus the cheesy soundtrack.) I traded my beloved lattes for regular coffee, no sugar. I said goodbye to fast food. I began a grueling workout routine crafted by my best friend’s boyfriend—an annoyingly perfect-looking specimen who I’m convinced is the guy whose head you don’t see on exercise infomercials. I grew out my hair, and had it professionally trimmed. Finally, I changed my wardrobe, discarding the lifeless shirts and full-legged trousers and replacing them with slim-fit, flat-front pants and tastefully patterned, tailored shirts in fine fabrics. The piece de resistance: I purchased a perfectly fitting black cashmere V-neck that I fell in love with, despite the price tag.… It was that sweater I was wearing with a pair of sleek gray pants and a modern black-faced watch when I recently walked into a restaurant to meet my friends for dinner. This would be the test. Would anyone notice? I inhaled, opened the door and turned the corner.... “Wow: look at you!” “Love the sweater!” “David, um... you look great!” Success! I noticed a few females in my party whisper to each other. My buddy Matt said, “Dude, you look great,” in the casual tone men use to give each other compliments. Another friend’s son nodded at me approvingly. He’s in his 20s and in great shape. Just wait ’til you’re 35, kid... wait ’til you hit 35.
GETTY 1
TURNING BACK TIME 16
road trip
AMERICA,
Robert Talbott’s top execs stopped to visit on their cross-country moto tour. By Harry Sheff
THE LONG WAY
few months after Bob Corliss came on as the new CEO of the storied Northern California shirt and tie company Robert Talbott, he had an idea: instead of booking dozens of flights around the country to visit stores, he wanted to drive across the country by motorcycle, stopping to introduce himself to customers along the way. Robb Talbott, who owns the company and the Talbott Vineyards, was game. Talbott and Corliss had bonded early on over their love of cars and bikes. “We’re both gearheads,” recalls Corliss. “I’ve ridden a motorcycle my whole life, as has Robb. I said, ‘Let’s pursue our passion and go visit our customers on
motorcycles!’” They may not have realized what they were getting into. In the end, the journey was split into six parts over 12 months, covering 13,500 miles across 30 states, with stops at nearly 50 menswear stores. The bikes they chose for the job were BMW R1150 GS Adventures—the same machines Ewan MacGregor and Charley Boorman rode on their London to New York trip documented in the series Long Way Round. “They’re absolutely incredible machines. I can be accused of being more enthusiastic about the bikes than the menswear business sometimes,” Corliss admits. “But it leaves a real impression with the customers. The reactions from retailers have been any-
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where from, ‘You’ve got to be kidding me—you guys must be crazy,’ to ‘That’s really cool! Can we come with you?’” His advice for those who want to attempt such a trip: “Make sure your insurance is paid up and be really, really careful. It’s not so much you—it’s the guy on his cell phone you have to worry about.” In the end, there were no accidents (aside from the occasional tip-over in a parking lot) and, miraculously, no speeding tickets. “I was fortunate enough to meet two very friendly officers in Arizona and one in North Carolina… but I got out of both tickets,” Corliss grins. Would he ever do it again? “No time soon!” he laughs. “But we’re really glad we did it. Robb and I both knew we needed to reconnect with the customers. I tell you, when I show up at your doorstep and I stink, I’m wet, tired and hungry, I’m going to make an impression! But people couldn’t have been more open and welcoming.”
Right: Dave Morton, Robb Talbott and Craig Andrisen pose inside the store.
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profile
David and Kelly Hamilton have expanded the family business.
BESPOKEN FOR
A young Texas twosome reinvigorates their family’s great American shirt business. By William Kissel WE DO IT ALL—
When fourth-generation shirt makers David and Kelly Hamilton decided to extend the reach of their family’s custom shirts outside their Houston-based store, the siblings knew they would have to keep a close eye on their distribution. “In our experience, [the product is] only as good as the salesperson on the floor. So we wanted to limit ourselves to only the best specialty stores in the country who know their products and their customers as well as we know ours,” says David. Hence, Hamilton’s signature shirts can only be found in fewer than 30 of the top retailers nationwide. Indeed, each Hamilton shirt—whether custom, made-to-measure or a product of the firm’s relatively new Hamilton 1883 ready-made collection—is a carefully constructed work of art made from the finest Italian and Swiss fabrics (more than 500 varieties in stock and an additional 700 on demand). They are hand-cut and hand-crafted entirely in America. Unlike other shirt makers, nearly 80 percent of the 130-yearold Hamilton brand’s operation is still dedicated to the lost art of bespoke, made-to-order shirt making, a process that allows the customer to choose his own fabric, cut, button, collar and cuff style, among other sartorial details. Moreover, the firm still cuts its shirts from a customer’s own signature paper pattern and produces a prototype garment to allow for alterations and client approval before completing every order. What’s most unique about the Hamilton experience
is that the client never feels overFROM MEASURING whelmed by the myriad options. AND HELPING CLIENTS “It’s like a menu in a restaurant,” SELECT THE DETAILS says David. “There are infinite OF THEIR SHIRTS options, but we don’t present it that TO FASHIONING THE way. We think it’s best to make sugFINISHED PRODUCT. gestions, so the client still controls every design aspect but without the burden of making every decision.” Hamilton might be unknown to most who’ve never ventured inside the company’s original Texas shop, but the brand actually has deep roots. It began in 1883 (hence the signature on its ready-made shirts) when brothers Edward and J. Brooke established Hamilton Brothers as a clothier producing everything from custom-made suits to hats. Shirts became the family’s primary focus after World War II, and over the years the business passed from generation to generation. Under Kelly and David’s stewardship, which began in 2006, the label has expanded nationally and introduced a new collection of softly styled sport shirts with a slightly slimmer fit to reach a younger demographic. “The softer collar gives it a more contemporary feel, and the tail is shorter so it can be worn in or out. But we still use the highest quality fabrics that appeal to a more classic customer,” says David. Shirts range in price from roughly $225 (readymade) to $325 (full bespoke).
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man of style
A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE When Philippe Cousteau was a boy, he wanted to be a fireman. Then, on his 16th birthday, his mother and sisters gave him a present: a research trip to Papua New Guinea. Since then he’s been traveling the world, from enduring the cold of Antarctica to providing humanitarian aid in war-torn Sarajevo. A self-described “explorer, social entrepreneur and environmental advocate,” Philippe Cousteau is the 32year-old son of Jan and Philippe Cousteau Sr. He is also, of course, the grandson of legendary Captain Jacques-Yves Cousteau. “My grandfather taught me to always innovate... always question,” he says. “Each of us has the responsibility to make the world a better place.” Cousteau takes this responsibility very seriously. For him, exploring the connections between humans and the environment is as important as exploring nature itself. He is co-founder of Azure Worldwide, a strategic environmental design, development and marketing company. Along with green site design and planning, eco-tourism and new media, they’re using interactive gaming “to help people understand how their actions impact the environment.” Cousteau is also a special correspondent for CNN International, hosting the Going Green series and reporting on environmental and humanitarian issues. He serves on the boards of directors of The Ocean Conservancy, the Marine Conservation Biology Institute, the National Environmental Education Foundation and the National Council of the World Wildlife Fund. He has
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TOP RIGHT COURTESY BBC. BOTTOM LEFT AND NEXT PAGE COURTESY ADAM LARKEY.
PHILIPPE COUSTEAU MAKES ENVIRONMENTAL CONSERVATION LOOK GOOD. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
also testified to Congress on ocean management and off-shore drilling. In addition, Cousteau is president of EarthEcho International, a non-profit organization he founded with his sister and mother, whose mission is to encourage youth to take action that restores and protects our water planet. “My grandfather was a wonderful storyteller and communicator,” Cousteau reveals. “He believed you could change society through kids.” Following this philosophy, EarthEcho combines education, balanced advocacy and a commitment to action, providing programs and tools for students to undertake local projects to help the environment. It also includes training in citizen journalism, workshops that teach young people how to write and tell stories about the environment and the world they live in. “If they can learn [how to write], their words have meaning. They have power,” he emphasizes. Cousteau is the co-author, with Cathryn Berger Kaye M.A., of Going Blue: A Teen Guide to Saving the Oceans, Lakes, Rivers, & Wetlands (Free Spirit Publishing, 2010) and Make A Splash!: A Kid’s Guide to Protecting Our Oceans, Lakes, Rivers, & Wetlands. “We’ve seen firsthand the passion young people have for the environment. EarthEcho’s focus is to empower youth to make a difference…. Adults often tell me they now recycle because their kids insist on it.” xtending his social and environmental work to the financial realm, Cousteau has partnered with AdvisorShares Investments to launch the Global Echo Exchange Traded Fund on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE: GIVE), as well as to form the GlobalECHO Foundation, a 501 (c)(3) for which he serves as co-founder and chairman. “The GlobalECHO Foundation is dedicated to supporting projects and organizations that have the power to transform communities and inspire positive change well beyond their geographic boundaries,” he explains. Despite the seriousness of his business, Cousteau
“ADULTS OFTEN TELL ME THEY NOW has a charming sense of humor. His personal RECYCLE BECAUSE style is both classic and delightfully unique. In a dress shirt (no tie), a vest and jeans (with a THEIR KIDS INSIST jacket draped over his suitcase), he also wears ON IT.” two cords around his neck—one featuring a carved
cow horn from Zanzibar, the other a silver shark tooth—as well as numerous bracelets, including one made of wooden beads from South Korea, another of Guatemalan embroidery, and a silver one from his fiancée. Due to his busy schedule, which on any given day might include taping a television segment during a jungle trek, then attending a fundraiser or making a personal appearance, Cousteau has had to learn which clothes work for him in various settings. For TV appearances in the wild, he chooses blue cotton shirts and khaki pants; he even has the pants tailored for a perfect fit. For casual wear he likes jeans (which he lets his fiancée pick out), and on dressier occasions, he prefers three-piece suits. (Recently Cousteau “is into vests,” in part because they offer pockets for his latest passion: pocket watches.) The sense of adventure that has taken Cousteau all over the globe for his work is also reflected in his private life. He even has a list of things he thinks he (and every man of style) should be able to do: fix things around the house, ride a motorcycle, drive a stick shift, tie a bow tie, choose the best wines and spirits, prepare good meals and barbeque. And what does a man who travels 300 days a year do for vacation? Cousteau smiles. “When work is swimming with great white sharks, a day off is sleeping in.”
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books After touring a recent exhibit at The Museum at FIT called Ivy Style, which celebrated the fashion that evolved from the campuses of the Ivy League schools—Brown, Columbia, Cornell, Dartmouth, Harvard, Princeton, U-Penn and Yale—in the early part of the last century, I picked up the accompanying book (also called Ivy Style). In its preface, curator Patricia Mears states that despite the recent recession, apparel brands have been under pressure to produce more collections, more garments per collection and to get into more product categories. The trend doesn’t necessarily mean the items are better... just that there’s more of them. As a result of this overproduction, Mears writes, “I wanted objects that were well made, with real purpose.” She found that designers and other fashion cognoscenti were all returning to the Ivy heritage for “a look that transcends and endures….” In fact, she goes on to differentiate “preppy” from “Ivy” and to show that much of what we take for granted as conservative, classic dressing was, at the time, anti-establishment and revolutionary. Mears shows that “no other university defined Ivy Style as fervently and as beautifully as Princeton in the 1920s and 1930s.” Due in part to its somewhat isolated location, sportswear—clothes literally worn to play sports—became “around-the-clock attire.” Clothes that
we might describe as classic or even stuffy, like tweed suits or white bucks, actually evolved from golf and tennis attire of the time. “Princetonians were also credited with introducing the sport jacket,” appropriating Norfolk hunting jackets by updating the construction and wearing them with unmatched trousers. The relaxed style was then broadcast to the world by the most closely watched celebrity of the day, Prince Edward of York (the Duke of Windsor). Eschewing the formality of court dress that his great-grandmother, Queen Victoria, would have demanded, the Prince became fascinated with this sportive style and elevated it to a whole new level (the subject of an essay in the book by Dr. Peter McNeil, a professor of design history at the University of Technology, Sydney). Particularly after abdicating the throne of England, he popularized wearing relaxed, informal clothes in public settings, including short-sleeved knits, bright colors and tartans... clothing we see today even in office settings. The Ivy Style exhibit bravely showed how modern brands have been influenced by the movement, from Michael Bastian’s trim, preppy looks to Thom Browne’s cutting-edge parodies and, of course, Ralph Lauren’s entire oeuvre. But perhaps to get the best look at the future of men’s fashion, we should return to the college campus. Maybe one day we’ll all be wearing compression-fit T-shirts and drawstring sweatpants to work. On the other hand, if we look to royals like Prince Harry for inspiration, we may be headed to the office completely nude.
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Ivy Style: Radical Conformists by Patricia Mears is published by Yale University Press and The Fashion Institute of Technology.
COURTESY FIT
A SPRIG OF IVY
The hottest trend in menswear is also one of its oldest. By John Jones
style
SPRING 2013 FASHION SIZZLES WITH BOLD HUES. HERE’S HOW TO WEAR THEM. BY LENORE RICH
COLOR CUES To get out of a lackluster neutral zone, a few tips: Determine your best colors and wear them near your face. You’ll have a healthy glow. Your eyes will be brighter, your teeth whiter, you’ll look more alert. Knowing your personal color palette will prevent costly mistakes (like buying clothes that just end up hanging in your closet). A professional color analysis is the best option, but you can also do it yourself. Under natural lighting, hold a fabric up to your face, alternating between cool, blue-based tones (blue-reds, true blues, black, white) with warm, yellowbased shades (yellows, oranges, beiges). It should be obvious: either cool or warm colors will be more flattering. (FYI, the vast majority of American men look best in cool shades; hence white or light blue dress shirts rather than beige, and gray or navy suits rather than brown.) Accessorize! If some of your favorite clothes are in the
‘wrong’ color, add a scarf or sweater in the right shade. Eyeglasses, hotter than ever, are a great way to bring ‘correct’ color to your face. Men should consider adding color with great ties, scarves, socks, belts, shoes (and shoelaces!), or other mood-elevating accessories. This season’s essential buy: five-pocket pants or jeans in bold color. The good news: just pick a shade you love! It’s okay to wear a wrong color away from your face; just make sure the top is in your right color! But remember: color blocking that cuts the body in half looks best on tall, thin model types, which most of us are not. While skin tone is the most important factor in finding your best colors, make-up and hair color matter. Fortunately for the men out there: most guys look great with gray hair, as long as it’s the right shade of gray. See a professional colorist and go from drab to dynamic.
The Color-Mood Connection Connecticut, confirms that color evokes mood. “People need visual cues to reinforce feelings and create a state of mind. For example, the Argentine Tango, a passionate dance, evokes feelings of fury, mystery and attitude. I wear a red tie and my dance partner wears red lipstick and strong eye makeup, enhancing the intense facial expression inherent in this dance. Although the quintessential black or red tango dress may seem cliché, it’s totally relevant. Latin dances—caliente and spicy—scream for reds, yellows, oranges and sparkle. But a graceful elegant waltz begs for soft blues and pastels to set the scene—picture a fairy tale Princess gliding across the dance floor...”
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LEFT FERNANDA RESENDE. ABOVE COURTESY SCOTT JAMES
Ronny Dutra, dance instructor at Dance With Me studios in Stamford,
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CIUCCOLI STYLING: JOSEPH UNGOCO GROOMING: VASSILIS KOKKINIDIS FOR FORD ARTISTS
Take note.
NEWRULES FOR BUSINESSCASUAL You heard it here first: Casual Fridays are becoming less casual, even on Fridays, even in the summer! The new Business Casual is just as relaxed but nowhere near as sloppy. Clothes that fit. Colors that flatter. Luxury fabrics that beg to be touched. (Well, maybe not in the office…) Score points with the boss, with the women, with your mother… Look better, feel better, perform PERFORMANCE better. Here, in the pages to follow, the new ENHANCING rules for Business Casual.
Rule
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JEANS IN THE OFFICE: Unless you’re meeting with formal clients, jeans are okay. Just make sure you’re wearing perfectly fitted premium denim in an even-tone dark wash. Paired with a sportcoat, a cardigan, or even a shirt and tie, dressed-up denim is fine with us. (Just ditch the big baggy stuff and wear great shoes!)
Rule
2
A SPORTCOAT IS ALWAYS APPROPRIATE! Why not try a modern unconstructed version, (unlined, minus the padding) worn with a lightweight knit top or shirt and tie. (Bows are back, especially for young guys!) Note too the fivepocket pants in non-denim fabrics. Fit is key!
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Rule
INVEST IN A GREAT SPRING JACKET! Since you don’t need a whole wardrobe of them, pick something really special. (Suede in the spring is very Italian!)
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Rule
FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES. Cool socks: check! Perfect watch? Essential. Bracelet? Adds personality. A great bag or backpack? Of course! And don’t overlook your belt and wallet. Make sure they convey the impression you want to make.
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Rule
BEST FOOT FORWARD. Women know, and guys are learning: it’s all about the shoes! For spring 2013, we love lace-ups in soft leather or suede; have fun with color!
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Rule
MODELS: KERSCH, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT; PIERRE BARRERA, RED MODEL MANAGEMENT
IMPORTANT: IT’S OKAY TO LOOK LIKE THE BOSS! You’ll never be denied an opportunity because you look too professional. On the other hand, clothes that work for the gym or backyard could very well hold you back. As the saying goes: Dress for the job you want, not the one you’ve got…
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEK STYLING: WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY
SHADES of BLUE This spring, the world’s most universally beloved color — and the color that somehow magically looks good on everyone — is everywhere! In a stunning spectrum of solids, prints, textures and patterns, when it comes to blue, the sky and the sea are the limit. So get your blue on!
Aquamarine Azure Baby Bluebe b rry Caribbean Ceru ulean Cobalt Cornfl flower Denim Heather In ndigo Midnight Navy Ocean Pacific Peacock Periwinkle Powder Robin’s Egg Royal Sapphire Sky Steel Teal Turquoise Violet
Aquamarine Azure Baby Blueberry Caribbean Cerulean Cobalt Cornflower Denim Heather Indigo Midnight Navy Ocean Pacific Peacock Periwinkle Powder Robin’s Egg Royal Sapphire Sky Steel Teal Turquoise Violet
world scene GARDEN VARIETY
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his spring and summer, you could plant a few geraniums… or create your own private paradise. A simple patch at a small house in London, a garden featuring an Italian cascade in California, extravagant parks on great estates in France and Belgium: French landscape artist and garden designer Francois Goffinet develops the concepts and personally oversees the realization of his projects all over the world. Aficionados who prefer to do it themselves can still have a touch of the master with pieces from Monsieur Goffinet’s recently introduced classical garden furniture collection, which includes a wood chair, armchair, footstool, stone table, tent and planters. He also offers advice: “Take care of the site and the genius loci.”
Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson
TALENT SHOWS
T
BILL WESTMORELAND
he brilliant singer/songwriter Ann Hampton Callaway has composed over 250 songs for television, Broadway and Off-Broadway. Her music and lyrics have been performed and recorded by talents as diverse as Liza Minnelli, Patti LuPone, Michael Feinstein, Carole King and the legendary Barbra Streisand, who asked Callaway to write lyrics to a Rolf Lovland melody entitled I’ve Dreamed of You. (She liked the finished product so much she sang it to James Brolin at their wedding.) Last year, the Boston Pops commissioned Callaway to create and perform a show based on music performed by Streisand. On opening night, at Boston’s famed Symphony Hall, the audience gave her nine standing ovations. Starting this spring and continuing into the autumn, Callaway is taking the Barbra Streisand Songbook on the road, performing with symphony orchestras across the country in cities from Washington to Pennsylvania.
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Sill-TerHar Motors 125 Alter Street Broomfield, CO 80020 303.469.1801 www.sthmotors.com
GOT GAME?
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aturally, a man (or woman) cave needs comfortable furniture, a really big TV, a killer sound system, a place to keep food, and the latest high-tech games. Take the fun-factor up a notch with a blast from the past. Dazadi offers awesome Stern pinball machines (the last company to make them) with themes including X-Men, Tron, Avatar, the recently released AC/DC and Transformers, and the very cool Limited-Edition Rolling Stones Pinball Machine. This one has a cabinet and playfield with artwork featuring band members and classic album covers, two new fast ramps, a molded Stones tongue-and-lips detail, a moving Mick Jagger target, and seven game modes that lead to a special encore. It even plays 13 Rolling Stones hits.
RIVER WORLD
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osa River Cruises sail along historically fascinating waterways. There’s the Blue Danube cruise that meanders up this romantic river to Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia and Croatia. The cruise along the Rhine docks at castles, cities (including Mozart’s birthplace) and the mysterious Black Forest (both ships offer travelers private tours of museums and great châteaux). On board, local, often rare wines are served. There’s a spa with one-way glass walls (so guests can view the passing scene while having a treatment), gym, lounge with a dance floor, sun deck, swimming pool, putting green, whirlpool and shuffleboard court. The restaurant features regional dishes; if you’re too entranced by the view to go inside to eat, the chef will arrange to have your dinner served on deck.
VINO DA CANTARE
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few miles from Florence near the small village of Lajatico is the Bocelli vineyard, which has belonged to the family of world-famous tenor Andrea Bocelli for generations. (Andrea’s sister-in-law Cinzia and brother Alberto manage the azienda and greet guests; Mama Bocelli can often be found hand-tying vines in the fields.) Next time you’re touring the Tuscany region of Italy, you might spend a charming afternoon visiting with the Bocellis and tasting their wines, then stop for dinner at Ristorante La Vallata just a short distance away. This restored farmhouse has several Bocelli wines in the cellar, or you can choose a favorite at the vineyard and bring it with you. Settle on the terrace surrounded by cypress and olive trees dating back to the 1700s and dine on entrées the chef creates to pair with the Bocelli wines.
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travel
A GRAPE NIGHT’S SLEEP LUXE WINERIES THAT ACCOMMODATE BEYOND THE TASTING ROOM. BY SHIRA LEVINE Sleeping where you drink doesn’t necessarily mean you’re a well-pickled grifter, but the warm buzz from a few glasses of pinot noir undoubtedly nudges most of us into a deep rest. When spending a snug few nights within a winery, exclusivity, top-notch amenities and epic landscapes combine to make a sensational bottle taste that much better. We got our teeth red to bring you three of our favorite winery refuges, encouraging you to toss the keys on the mahogany table, stay the night, and wake up to a crisp sparkling white… for breakfast!
CASTELLO DEL TREBBIO IN PONTASSIEVE, ITALY Anyone can drink good wine in Italy, but not everyone can say they’ve clinked glasses and spent the night in a medieval castle. Located atop the San Brigida hills roughly a half-hour from Florence, the castleturned-mansion villa is surrounded by lush grape vines, olive groves and saffron crocuses. Trebbio offers a subtle modernity while respecting history and tradition. (Castles are made of stone and get cold, so central heating and electricity are fêted
where they can be found!) The castle tower that once protected the fortress still stands, but now serves as a welcoming entry. The estate warden, although retired, still greets guests in traditional clothing, and the dungeons with their once murderous hooks remain to hold Chianti hostage in Trebbio’s wine cellar. The cave-like restaurant is a relatively recent addition, whose dishes enhance the celebrated Riesling/pinot grigio blend and the aforementioned Chianti. Built by the Pazzi family, Renaissance-era Florentine bankers, the castle first changed hands in the 14th-century after a bloody clash with the Medici clan. But today, romance is the main focus on Trebbio’s 800 acres. The property hosts many a bride and groom from around the world, as well as those seeking a fairy tale setting for any occasion. The villa is separated into three apartments, each rustic and cozy with its own patio, private garden and swimming pool. (Those who plan to cook or bring a chef should request the one previously occupied by the owners; it has the most modern appliances.) Guests can arrange activities like Italian language courses, painting or cooking classes and horseback riding. Hiking and biking trails lined with chestnut trees and olive groves lead from the villa to the lake and the local village.
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CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶ANDRISEN MORTON THINKS SO
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
JORDAN WINERY IN HEALDSBURG, CALIFORNIA
MATETIC WINERY IN CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILE
The picturesque roads that snake through northern California’s wine country don’t just lead to Napa and Sonoma. About an hour northwest is Healdsburg, an insider’s enclave. Filled with fab foodie spots, the town is rich with wineries that reap their fruits from the crossings of the Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. Within that dynamic topography lies the 1,500-acre, family-owned Jordan Winery. Tastings are open to anyone with a palate, but a night’s stay within the 18th century-esque château (actually built 37 years ago for a reported $15 million) is only for oenophiles in Jordan’s loyalty program. Earn reward points through the purchase of two award-winning wines, a cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay that have impressed chefs and sommeliers since 1976. Built by the architects responsible for George Lucas’ Skywalker Ranch, the château includes seven unique rooms, each with high wood-beamed ceilings, red tiled floors and authentic Louis XIII antiques. Below the suites is the regal dining room and Chef Todd Knoll’s kitchen, where he and his hospitality director wife Nitsa marry epicurean innovation with tradition using the freshest ingredients from the plentiful garden outside. Fava greens, cremini mushrooms and haricots verts are just a few of the treats served on Baccarat crystal and Madeira linens to overnight guests like Bono, Pierce Brosnan and Michael Mina. After dinner, the lucky are invited to enjoy a glass (or two) in CEO John Jordan’s private 1920s-style hangar. Besides a bar, pool table and vintage shuffleboard, he keeps his bright yellow piper cub plane and a museum quality collection of World War I and II-era memorabilia on display to dazzle those who wander in.
The Casablanca Valley, a midway point between Valparaiso and Santiago, is a wine region just 11 miles from the water, bathed in cool breezes and morning fogs from the Pacific. The result: a ‘premium cool valley’ where chardonnay and sauvignon blanc vines can thrive. Just southwest of Casablanca is the futuristic-looking Matetic Winery, discreetly tucked into the slope of a hillside within the San Antonio Valley. Pioneering 21st-century enotourism, the avant-garde property features a dramatic oval barrel cellar and two swish tasting rooms replete with a waterfall. Try the organic pinot noir, syrah, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay within the gleaming wood and glass winery, then take a short drive to the elegant yet rustic La Casona. The traditional colonial-style estancia and hacienda is also a working family ranch and vineyard that sits on 27,000 acres hugging the Rosario Valley. The adobe guesthouses are chic and stylish thanks to a 2004 renovation. Seven rooms are each named after a wine and enhanced with a private terrace. They boast four-poster beds, and rich damask curtains that flank windows with views of palm trees and verdant wild gardens (though the views from the swimming pool are some of the most staggering). Dining options include the gourmet restaurant Equilibrio or a private chef who prepares indulgent breakfasts and dinners. Organic and sustainable is the agenda, so guests can expect mostly handcrafted ingredients, from homemade breads and sheep’s milk cheeses to honeys and jams made from grape, fig, papaya and pomegranate trees growing on the land. (There’s even a family-run cheese operation to tour on the property!)
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RELAX. WE MAKE LOOKING GREAT EASY.
studio in London. Not just any studio, but Abbey Road Studio, where John, Paul, George and Ringo recorded most of their music from 1962 to 1970. Ted Chapin didn’t have to imagine it. He lived it and confides that “it was pretty cool.” But instead of hearing the legendary Beatles, he listened with pride and admiration as the talented British conductor John Wilson coaxed his handpicked orchestra—comprised of many of the U.K. and Europe’s finest first-string players—to bring to life the film orchestrations of Rodgers & Hammerstein. Wilson has produced countless orchestrations for film, radio and TV, and his lifelong love of musicals has led him to restore the scores of numerous classic films including High Society and Singin’ in the Rain. “I listened to a CD many years ago of movie music by John Wilson. I’d never heard of him before, but immediately became a fan,” says Chapin, president and CEO of the New York-based Rodgers & Hammerstein: An
JOHN WILSON CONDUCTS HIS ORCHESTRA IN THE LEGENDARY ABBEY ROAD Imagem STUDIO. Company. “It led THE ANATOMY OF A CLASSIC, me on a quest to find this person who conducted with such guts and passion. I wanted him to take a look at the repertoire that I represented.” Chapin and Wilson would eventually meet at the BBC Proms, share their zeal for all things R&H, and agree to collaborate on a project. The culmination of that mutual admiration is EMI Classics’
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SEVEN DECADES LATER! Rodgers & Hammerstein At The Movies, the first re-recording of many of R&H’s most beloved songs since the original movie soundstage sessions. “There is nothing in existence with this type of integrity,” boasts
CHRIS CHRISTODOLOU / SIM CANETTY-CLARKE LICENSED TO EMI CLASSICS
music Imagine taking the long and winding road to a recording
RODGERS & HAMMERSTEIN REVISITED
“The recording opened to critical acclaim in the U.K. last fall, ahead of Coldplay, the Beach Boys, Katy Perry…” Chapin. “John has shaken up R&H’s music and said, ‘Listen to this: it’s pretty extraordinary. Don’t take it for granted.’” Since debuting to critical acclaim in the U.K. last fall—ahead of Coldplay, the Beach Boys and Katy Perry—the recording has enjoyed comparable notoriety in the United States following its February 2013 release. How could it not with a selection of 15 classics from Oklahoma, Carousel, South Pacific, The King and I and The Sound of Music in their stunning original film orchestrations? Almost seven decades after Rodgers & Hammerstein first collaborated on Oklahoma, the universality and significance of their music and message has never been stronger—both in the U.S. and abroad. John Wilson saw the reaction firsthand when he performed the duo’s iconic music at the BBC Proms and received a huge public response that grew with each subsequent performance. He was gratified by the strong reaction to a legendary team that he believes “gave us a completely new sort of musical where the songs were seamlessly integrated into the plot and pushed the plot forward. In addition to this, you got terrific tunes and beautifully crafted lyrics.” “If you’re a general fan of Rodgers & Hammerstein, you will hear in these performances such a degree of energy, clarity and passion, it’s like hearing them for the first time,” explains Chapin. “Everyone knows the
notes that make up these songs, but when you hear them played by John Wilson, you sit up and say ‘Wow!’” And that’s exactly what happened to David Pittsinger, the international opera star who made his Broadway debut as Emile de Becque in South Pacific and who also performs Some Enchanted Evening on this recording. Pittsinger says he’s in awe of “the genius of John Wilson. He captured the essence, the flavor, the text and the color of the film orchestrations. It’s inspirational to be a student, curator and champion of this music, which serves as a great tribute to the lasting relevance of Rodgers & Hammerstein.” Interestingly, South Pacific was the first musical featuring R&H as both writers and producers. One of the most successful partnerships in the history of American musical theater, their musicals have collectively earned 34 Tonys, 15 Oscars, two Pulitzer Prizes and two Grammys. For this unprecedented recording, Wilson chose what he considered to be “all the best tunes... where the orchestrations show off the orchestra.” He also showcased a broad crosssection of characters—“the Rodgers & Hammerstein types”—and intentionally cast great singers who are also respected actors. “John is smart at getting all the goods to make music,” adds Chapin. “I think Mr. Rodgers and Mr. Hammerstein would be thrilled by the results. They’d say, ‘Whoa, that’s what we wrote… and that’s exactly the way we wanted it to sound.”’
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MUSICAL MUSINGS ON MEN’S STYLE Ted Chapin: “God love the blue blazer is all I can say! Women always travel with lots of clothes on hangers, but if I’m gone for a threeday trip, I can do it all with a blue blazer. Brioni is the suit that looks best on me, so I guess I now have ‘a brand.’ And I like to have fun with neckties, an absurd category of clothing when you think about it....” David Pittsinger: “I feel very close to Emile de Becque’s style: clothing that’s refined, but expressive. I love lifetime classics—like Zegna and Armani—that make you feel impeccably dressed and pressed. But I also admire the styling of Robert Graham, whose color palettes, hand-stitching and tattoo-inspired designs are dramatic yet elegant.”
spirits
BESPOKE BOOZE
OPPORTUNITIES FOR SAMPLING FINE AND RARE WHISKIES (OR STORING YOUR OWN COLLECTION), ARE INCREASINGLY POPULAR. BUT THEY DON’T ALWAYS COME CHEAP.
Single malt fans have more options than ever to customize their drinking. By Robert Haynes-Peterson It’s an excellent time for connoisseurs of single malt Scotch whisky. Distilleries are expanding, production is up, with more iterations of fine and rare releases than ever before. For those seeking even more unusual drinking options, a cottage industry of whisky clubs and concierge services has arisen to assist in customizing your whisky experience like never before.
1494 Club: A New Yorkbased whisky club directly targeting high earners, 1494 honors the private social clubs of the 19th century. Founder David Clelland has secured an undisclosed townhouse in Manhattan where members can convene for tastings and curate their personal collections. Founding Members ($175,000) gain access to Scotland distillery and golf course trips via private jet, while Collector memberships ($25,000 and up) also boast many perks. “I wanted to offer an experience, and a lifetime commitment for collectors,” says Clelland.
The Whisky Dog: Founder Nicholas Pollacchi is an affable, stylish young Scotsman who has worked all angles of the whisky trade. What he felt was missing were private tasting events customized to meet a company’s or individual's needs. Meet The Whisky Dog. “We’re all about sitting down with the client and creating the kind of experience they want to create. Is it focused on high-end, rare product, or is it a one-to-one Scotch 101 seminar with younger executives?” asks Pollacchi. In addition to offering a large range of specialty whiskies, Pollacchi can customize events to include extras like fine cigars, a bespoke tailor, food pairings and musical entertainment.
Branded Whisky Clubs: Groups like the Glenlivet Guardians, 1801 Chivas Brotherhood and the Custodians of The Dalmore provide extra perks for your favorite brands. Sign up online and gain access to early releases of new expressions, private tasting events and more. The Glenlivet Guardians, for example, have sole access to the Guardian Single Cask Edition (about $300), and to a three-day "Whisky School" at the Speyside distillery, including the opportunity to bottle your own whisky.
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The Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America: This branch of the popular Edinburgh-based Society allows members the opportunity to sample and buy rare single-cask expressions, custom-made for SMWS. Bottles are identified by number (i.e. Cask No 106.18) rather than distillery, to allow the whisky to speak for itself. The date of distillation, number of bottles and tasting notes are printed on each bottle. Membership is $229 (which includes a kit with four sample whiskies), and an annual renewal fee of $60. Members also get discounted admission to tasting events.
SPRING 2013 In America, we start at the bottom and work our way up.
at your service
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-tomeasure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers, or even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.
ALTERATIONS With six full-time master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS
Going above and beyond for customers is the heart and soul of Andrisen Morton’s culture. We believe great merchandise combined with great service is the only way to exceed clients' expectations.
Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call and we’ll make it happen.
HOME/OFFICE VISITS Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries. We’re more than happy to come to your home or office. So give us a shout and we’re there…
GIFT CARDS For that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of Andrisen Morton. Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.
CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full, but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Andrisen Morton for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.
PERSONAL DELIVERY Whether in metro Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins or Vail, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it… with a smile.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift-wrapping and then there’s Andrisen Morton giftwrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.
$1,599/mo. MASERATI GRANTURISMO CONVERTIBLE SPORT. ELEVATE THE EXPERIENCE Forget everything you once knew. The new GranTourismo Convertible Sport will expand the horizons of those who seek a seductive looking, four-seater convertible but who also want to enjoy a sportier ride with dynamic handling. The GranTourismo Convertible Sport expresses this sporty edge in its detailing: the side spoilers, black oval exhaust pipes, new Astro design rims in Silver or Anthracite Grey, the M-design seats and the new leather tints. Completing the look is the ‘Rosso Trionfale’ color for the exterior, a hue that stirs the emotions. Visit www.maserati.com for a close-up look at the GranTourismo Convertible Sport. V8 4.7L ENGINE – MAXIMUM POWER OUTPUT: 444 HP AT 7000 RPM – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 376 LB/FT AT 4750 RPM – MAXIMUM SPEED: 177 MPH - 0-60 MPH: 5.0 SECONDS
Sill-TerHar Motors
150 Alter Street, Broomfield . 303.469.1801 . www.sthmotors.com
#R0004. MSRP $152,200. 36 month lease. 10,000 miles per year. $20,000 due at signing, no security deposit required. Plus tax. w.a.c. Expires 03/31/13.
ANDRISEN MORTON FORUM SPRING 2013