Maloufs by Fashion Forum Magazine

Malouf’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2012

THE JACKET AN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH

FASHION AND FANTASY

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FEATURES 1 6 38 62 72

Welcome Letter Spotlight on Ming Wang Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant Photography: Rock Star Art: Art Glass

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

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BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones

FASHION 8 26 30 36 42 44 48 56

Malouf’s Must-Haves Style: Discover Your Inner Italian Profile: Samuelsohn Designers: Robert Graham Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style Suiting: Tailored to Perfection A Walk in the Walled City The Jacket

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APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

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spotlight on ming wang

Real women serve as the inspiration behind the collections from Ming Wang. It was this very reason Kendra Hendon, fashion director and women’s buyer, and Lyndsie Myatt, sales associate—both of Malouf’s—were chosen to represent the brand in its I Am...Ming Wang look book. ounded in 2000, Ming Wang is known for seamlessly integrating an effortless chic style into the wardrobes of women nationwide. “As a child, I grew up surrounded by the influence of strong and creative women,” said Ming Wang. “It was the musings of these women that inspired me to design clothing that would meet their needs while making them feel confident and look beautiful.” To represent the real women who wear the brand, Ming Wang held a photo shoot for the I Am...Ming Wang look book. Loyal customers, boutique owners, Ming Wang employees and even two members from the Malouf’s team, Kendra Hendon and Lyndsie Myatt, were chosen as models for the look book. “The photo shoot was an amazing experience,” Hendon said. “We met women from around the country who come from all walks of life.” Adds Myatt, “We had a blast getting to know each other and learning that Ming Wang is a brand for women of all ages and body shapes.” Hendon and Myatt agree Ming Wang is easy to wear, travels well and conveniently integrates into a woman’s current wardrobe. “For the photo shoot, I wore one of my own skirts with the Ming Wang top,” said Hendon. For any occasion, Ming Wang offers products that are essential for all women. “The faces in this look book represent a range of generations, ethnicities and sizes,” Wang said. “Yet each woman embodies the essence of the Ming Wang brand through her confidence, motivation, poise as well as inner and outer beauty. Each of them is truly Ming Wang.”

Above: Lyndsie Myatt (left) and Kendra Hendon.

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SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?

What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current for spring/summer 2012?

My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the same suits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style. Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a balanced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, twobuttons are in and pleated pants are out! The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea to invest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construction and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights your shape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speed with updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick up a few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins the silhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to 8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Midweight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regularweight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabric types are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersucker in lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannel in darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

CANALI

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way to update is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright colors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or soft coats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few times for relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with ones that can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani. The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers that deck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers are always safe bets, too.

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SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HER

It seems that prints are everywhere, but I’ve never considered myself a “prints person.” Help!

I love white for summer. What can I do to add some visual interest to an all-white outfit?

Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can I translate the look for real life?

From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offering all manner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’s something out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way to introduce them into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic blouse or dress, like the one from Vince pictured at left. There are no hard and fast rules, so the most important thing is to come in and start trying things on! Don’t discount anything until you see how it looks on you. We promise to help you find a pretty print you can wear with confidence, and put the spring back in your step this season.

If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few months out of the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light colored—fashions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add both newness and longevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (bright white, cream and taupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroidery and knit). This look is all about approachability and ease, so try a loose, sheer blouse over a georgette cami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunky cardigan. And don’t forget to carefully consider your undergarments, the literal foundation for any successful white ensemble.

Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll be remiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if you try it on and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is all about proportion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked to flatter your particular shape. Working with your associate is key: she can point you toward the pieces that will work for you, help you decide what alterations to make, and suggest the perfect footwear to complete the look.

IN THE 1960s film La Dolce Vita, main character Marcello Rubini (played to perfection by Marcello Mastroianni) wears a series of form-fitting two-button suits featuring curvaceous lapels, soft natu-

ral shoulders and cigarette-cut slacks. When not wearing a shirt and tie, he opts for Johnny collar knit shirts accented with a scarf or ascot, casually knotted at the neck in a way only the most debonair Italian men are capable of pulling off with effectiveness. No one ever second guesses the character’s (supposedly a journalist) sense of style. Forget the fact that no American journalist— except the occasional fashion editor or perhaps the novelist Tom Wolfe—dresses with such unabashed sartorial flair. In Italy, whether students, statesmen or street sweepers, most men naturally possess a sense of chic that eludes the rest of us. Italians grow up in a culture where sartorial style is taken for granted. “We have a native predisposition for elegance and style, a characteristic that has been developed and improved upon over time,” explains Elisabetta Canali, scion of the Canali clothing family. “Good taste and savoir faire are just a part of the Italian culture.” By way of tailors (found on every street corner), Italian men learn about fine fabrics, the importance

IMAGE BY MICHAEL POLIZA PHOTOGRAPHY

DISCOVER YOUR INNER ITALIAN

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO / TOMMY TON

style

DRESS LIKE YOU WERE BORN INTO LA DOLCE VITA. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

www.brunellocucinelli.it

Castel del Monte - Andria

of a razor-sharp fit and how to mix and match shirts, ties and accessories. Moreover, through experience and experimentation they discover that a suit with a high armhole isn’t necessarily tight and uncomfortable—just the opposite, in fact. Most important, they train

gance, sophistication and timeless style are always better than of-themoment trends, which will date the wearer,” offers Giorgio Armani. “As for style, a two-button suit is more timeless than a three- or a one-button. A single-breasted is more versatile than double, allowing you to dress your suit up or down more freely and use the jacket as a separate more easily.” Finally, says Mr. Armani, “Confidence and a sense of humor make a man sexy.” Dressing like an Italian is about discovering a sense of balance, proportion, color and pattern. One can begin to develop Italian-esque style with a few simple tricks: • Wear dark sunglasses, Mastroianni style, in any weather. • Don loafers without socks. • Drape and loosely knot a colorful sweater over your shoulders. • Carry an oversized bag across your chest. • Secure your necktie with a knot large enough to land a small plane on. • Add a notice-me belt (white is an option even in winter) to bring a touch of panache to your jeans. • Wear a coordinating top coat over your suit or sportcoat.

and flat-front trousers. He also recommends brown suede shoes with most outfits to give your look a sporty yet sophisticated edge. The Cucinelli formula is equally distinctive: trim-cut gray flannel slacks or jeans, a knit shirt and/or pullover sweater, and a gray cashmere blazer with suede elbow patches and a turned up collar. Since Armani invented his slouchy suits in the ’80s, few designers until Cucinelli have seen their “look” adopted by such an eclectic assortment of men—from the 70year-old businessman to the 25year-old college student. “I think it’s very important how we put things together,” says Cucinelli, one of the few Italian designers who espouses facial hair with his cashmere blazers. “I like to show clothing, even tailored pieces, in a sporty chic way that is ageless. Because when I’m 50 years old, like everyone else, I want to look younger,” adds the designer (who claims to be 49, despite what it says on his birth certificate). Cucinelli designs each piece so it can be worn on its own and in a variety of ways. “A 25-year-old man is not going to wear a classic pinstripe suit,” he says, suggesting

“ELEGANCE, SOPHISTICATION AND TIMELESS STYLE ARE ALWAYS BETTER THAN OF-THE-MOMENT TRENDS.”—GIORGIO ARMANI themselves not to be afraid of color for fear of being bullied or judged. Just as “it is important for men to choose the right silhouette in order to feel most comfortable, it is equally important to work with color to give each outfit some excitement,” adds Canali. “A man should look for a suit he can wear, and not a suit that will wear him. In other words, ele-

• Consider flat-front red pants or white jeans. If you’re worried about remembering these rules, turn to a designer collection, like Luciano Barbera or Brunello Cucinelli, for inspiration that can help make the process a bit easier. Barbera prefers a bit of formality in his check cashmere sportcoats, worn with crisp cotton shirts, wool ties

that a tailored gray cashmere blazer over khakis or jeans can be equally elegant, depending on the man wearing it. Bottom line: open your mind and experiment with your wardrobe to find your perfect style. After all, you may be able to afford a Gucci suit or Prada loafers, but that cash register receipt doesn’t come with a diploma in style.

KATE WINSLET

Experience the whole story at DISCOVERSTJOHN. COM

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SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ounded in 1923, Samuelsohn is a Montreal-based clothing company with a reputation for excellence based on fine tailoring, luxury fabrics, unusual attention to detail and modern style. For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring means fully-basted canvas construction: there is no glue in the interlinings of their suits, so that the garment maintains its shape, fit and comfort even after repeated cleanings. Their luxury fabrics are from the best mills in Italy and England, featuring cashmere, camel hair, superfine wools, Pima cotton, Italian silk and precious fibers like vicuna and yangir. Hand-tailored details include Bemberg linings, corozo or horn buttons, silk threads and labels, and Italian cotton pocketing. But perhaps Samuelsohn’s real secret weapon is its designer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grew up working for his family’s clothing company in Montreal before launching his own in the late 1990s. Respected as one of the most talented designers in the industry, he’s also known for his dapper per-

sonal style. Here, we speak with him about tailored clothing, and about what makes a well-dressed man.

What’s so special about a Samuelsohn suit? It’s about hand-craftsmanship: each suit takes six and a half hours of labor, more than many of the well-known designer brands that are almost twice the price.

Are they made totally by hand? No. If we could automate it all, we would. But there are several processes a machine can’t duplicate: the handbasting, the handsewn armholes, the shoulder. Certain steps can be automated and you won’t see the difference, but others cannot. Most importantly, technol-

Samuelsohn designer Arnold Brant Silverstone

LAFAYETTE148NY.COM

ogy has not been able to duplicate a full canvas garment. Cheaper suits look okay on a hanger since the shape comes from pressing. But after dry cleaning, that shape is gone.

Your suits are known for a certain “expression”—what does this mean? It means the garments are not flat: there’s a certain dimension, a softness, a sexiness. After all, the human body is not flat, so a welltailored suit should also have shape and dimension.

What should guys look for when buying a suit? The most important thing is fit: when you put on the garment, it should make you look better. A well-tailored suit hides myriad imperfections and moves with you. The shoulders should be on you, not out to there. Today, men are wearing suits closer to the body, but that shouldn’t mean you lose comfort. It’s like driving a great sports car and really feeling the road. When you wear a quality suit, it moves with you.

How can guys look elegant when they’re not wearing suits? The biggest problem is when men equate casual with not caring, with

Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant, George Clooney… However casual the look, it was well thought-out, not thrown together, reflecting their personal style.

What are the key items a man should have for spring/summer 2012? 1) A great summer suit, maybe a tropical wool in British tan or dove gray. 2) A performance blazer or suit, either with high-twist yarns or some Lycra. Most guys these days are traveling or on the move but there’s no reason not to look crisp… 3) A cool outerwear piece: something reversible or with interior pockets or truly transitional and multi-functional. 4) A soft coat. We’re famous for ours: they look tailored but weigh next to nothing.

What’s the secret of success for a clothing manufacturer? Passion! I’ve been doing this for more than 20 years; I inherited the passion from my parents. But in addition to passion, one needs a spirit of innovation. We’re on top of the latest fabrics, fits, technologies. We’re always pushing the envelope, never satisfied with the status quo. We want the customer to say “WOW!” every time he puts on one of our garments. That’s my passion, and my mission.

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE. throwing on jeans and a T-shirt. The best-dressed men put thought into dressing: casual might mean beautifully tailored cotton pants and a soft jacket or a lightweight knit cashmere sweater or a cool reversible outerwear piece. Think back to the best-dressed men over the decades: The Rat Pack, James

How would you describe your own personal style? I like to look contemporary: not blending in with the crowd but not blatantly standing out. I like clothing that’s special, with the focus on fit, quality and elegance. That’s the way I like to dress and the kind of clothing I love to design!

designers

secret is exceptional product. Ten years ago, they virtually invented the colorful contrast trim woven sportshirt that revolutionized men’s fashion. By juxtaposing patterns on collars, cuffs, and/or the actual body of the shirt, they created a whole new look for men’s casual dressing. Since then, the line has evolved to include tailored clothing, footwear, an extensive assortment of premium denim, and lots of whimsical accessories, from

ROBERT GRAHAM:

ECLECTIC STYLE CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF FASHION INNOVATION. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

nyone who’s ever thought that men’s fashion is boring can’t be familiar with Robert Graham apparel. Founded by award-winning designer Robert Stock 10 years ago, these exciting clothes are part of a total lifestyle concept, summed up by his trademarked mantra (Knowledge, Wisdom, Truth) that appears on every garment. In addition to the fabulous fashion and spiritual components, Robert Graham sportswear offers up a hefty dose of fun! The company does more than 150

events a year, including the prestigious Concours d’Elegance antique car rally in Carmel, California. Their strong celebrity following includes athletes (Albert Pujols, Mariano Rivera), actors (Alec Baldwin, Owen Wilson), musicians (The Beach Boys, 50 Cent) celebrity chefs, wedding planners and more. High profile fans notwithstanding, Robert Graham’s real success

hats to socks. Although he’s been through similar brand-building journeys several times in his career, Stock (who started out working with Ralph Lauren) couldn’t be happier about this one. “What’s different here is that Robert Graham is not just about clothes; it’s about making people happy. Our customers are collectors: some of them own literally hundreds of our shirts. At a recent personal appearance in a store, I lent the DJ one of our shirts in a size 2XL. After the appearance, he confided how many people told him how great he looked. (So of course I gave him the shirt!) And that’s what drives me: seeing that kind of reaction…”

From top: Robert Stock; 50 Cent; Albert Pujols

you’re likely a customer of one of the finest specialty stores in America, run by one of the nation’s top merchants. In today’s highly competitive retail environment, how do these independents compete with stores many times their size? Bottom line, it’s talent, taste, passion, promotion, business savvy, extraordinary service and lots of hard work! Here, we speak with a few star merchants in the Forum store group (a coalition of America’s top specialty apparel stores) to learn what drives them. Theorizes John Malouf of Malouf’s in Lubbock, Texas: “We’ve survived by featuring only the best product in each category, and by teaching customers how great they can look in the right clothes.” Adds John Braeger of Garys in Newport Beach, California, “Our secret is buyers who live in the community so they really know their customers: their interests, tastes and lifestyles… Our mix is always on target because our merchants personally know who’s buying it.”

NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTED SPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Braeger also points out that independents are more willing to take risks than stores that are publicly owned. “We buy smaller quantities with more selection, so you’re less likely to see someone in town wearing the same thing. Our goal is to please customers, not shareholders…” On the mis-

conception that clothing costs more in independent stores, Malouf is adamant. “We never charge more! Our prices are based on typical industry margins, but we give customers so much more than great fashion.” Extras include closet makeovers, expert alterations, wardrobe consulting, extended hours, e-mailed photos of new products as they arrive, rush delivery and many other personalized services. What’s more, independent merchants often buy designer brands differently than the big stores, working personally with the designers to develop exclusives and fine-tune assortments. Explains Bob White of Hubert White in Minneapolis, “Our advantage is knowing who we’re buying for and combining that personal knowl-

GETTY 1 ELDER GALVÃO

retailing IF YOU’RE READING THIS MAGAZINE,

THE SOUL OF A MERCHANT

SPRING 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.

Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.

edge with trends in the market. It’s this mix of client and product expertise that separates us from our larger competitors.” Obviously top merchants travel far and wide to find exclusive product: many take eight to 10 trips a year. Says Braeger, “I’d say I spend half the year buying, the other half doing everything else.” Adds Malouf, “We travel regularly to NYC, Dallas, Vegas and Italy, where we work directly with the designers. To me, designing beautiful clothes is analogous to an artist who paints or a musician who composes: it’s creating something of beauty and lasting value.” On a more pragmatic note, Wally Naymon from Kilgore Trout in Cleveland points out that by shopping at locally owned specialty stores rather than national chains, 80 percent of the money

spent stays in the community. But more importantly, says Naymon, independent retailers are more interested in developing long-term relationships than in making the immediate sale (vs. publicly held companies that are pressured to meet

“STORES THAT SURVIVE ARE CLEARLY THE BEST OF THE BEST.” monthly goals). “We’re in it for the long haul,” says Naymon. Howard Vogt of Rodes in Louisville says, “We carry only the best labels, and then tweak assort-

ments to our customers’ lifestyles, our climate, regional events like The Kentucky Derby, etc. It’s a very personalized mix you can’t get in the big department stores.” Craig Andrisen, co-owner of Andrisen Morton in Denver, believes it’s all about relationships. He points out that “employees who are respected, rewarded and well cared for treat their customers the same way.” Adds his business partner Dave Morton, “Our philosophy of business is simple: ‘Never say no, always say yes, then go figure it out.’ Exceptional service is always the ultimate goal.” Sums up Bob Mitchell of Mitchells, Richards, Marsh’s and Wilkes Bashford: “Our personalized approach to everything we do, from buying to marketing to service, allows us to give customers more without costing them more.”

ROBERTGRAHAM.US

denim

ATTENTION-GRABBING

STYLE

AG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI HO ISN’T SEARCHING for the perfect jeans, a pair that is both comfortable and sexy? Seemingly impossible standards for most brands to live up to… but AG isn’t most brands. Mixing that form-fitting silhouette with a lived-in feel is what makes AG denim the hottest on the market. The company launched in 2001 as a collaboration between Mr. Yul Ku and “the Godfather of denim” Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns 30-year-old Koos Manufacturing, one of the world’s premier denim factories; Goldschmied co-founded Diesel.) The two parted amicably in 2004 and the brand has been on the up-and-up since Ku’s son Sam became design director in 2006. AG manufactures everything in

its own 400,000 sq. ft. facility in Los Angeles, employing over 1,000 workers. The amount of time and personal attention that goes into each pair is astonishing: from hand-sanding and oven-baked whiskering to new eco-friendly laser technologies that help create that perfect vintage look. “We control every step because we’re a vertical operation,” Sam says. “We don’t take shortcuts, or try to save a few cents here and there with cheaper fabrics or trims. We really care about the product and want our consumer to look and feel good in our jeans.” Premium fabrics are sourced from Japan and Italy, many of which are exclusive to the brand. Recently, AG has also impressed

with its non-denim styles, like super-soft pima cotton cords. In denim and other fabrics alike, Sam highlights colored bottoms as one of spring 2012’s hottest trends. Men should try muted colors like sand and charcoal, while women can experiment with a more diverse range: dusty shades of rose and gray, and saturated brights like electric blue and raspberry. The brand has garnered frequent press attention thanks to its many celebrity devotees, including power couple Gavin Rossdale and Gwen Stefani, and Academy Award nominee Anne Hathaway. But Sam gets most excited when he sees someone—anyone—walking down the street in a pair he designed. “For me, that will never get old!”

SYDEL

PRISKA

suiting

TAILORED TO PERFECTION

100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETS MODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is an

Zegna suits in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun.

exquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say, took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just in time for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniversary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waist and natural, semi-constructed shoulders. Like all Zegna suits this season, the new Milano, available in both single and doublebreasted, is interpreted in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun, with an everso-slight sheen reminiscent of sharkskin clothing from the 1950s. But the Milano is tailored with a decidedly modern sensibility. The jacket is cut slightly shorter and features just a hint more interior canvas—as many as three layers— for structure, yet the finished garment remains remarkably lightweight. The defining element is the barchetta, or boat-shaped breast pocket, a sewing detail that can only be achieved by hand. Initially a cloth producer and later a suit and sportswear maker, Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) has perfected the art of lighter-than-air suit making like no other designer label in history. The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand not only constructs all of its own suits in factories around the world (prompting the company to introduce the slogan ‘Made in Zegna’), but the family-owned company

E LI E TA H A R I.C O M

has pioneered everything from the technically advanced fabrics used to make its suits to the su mesura, or made-to-measure, concept often employed to sell them.

HAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-

cially the made-to-measure variety—can only be answered by slipping into one. Each piece is a labor of love tailored to your exact specifications, in the fabric of your choice. You can select the number of pockets, the direction of the pleats on your trousers and even the buttons and whether or not they work. Moreover, it will be made with such attention to detail that your every physical anomaly— from sloping shoulders and a thrown back to a hollow chest or an enlarged abdomen—is actually masked by the finished garment. (Buying one of these suits is a far better option than going under the doctor’s knife.) You may never need to visit your tailor again. “By the time a made-to-measure suit is complete over 500 hands will have touched it and more than 7,000 hand stitches will have been used to create it,” explains image director Anna Zegna. Zegna workers have a hand in every step, from shearing the sheep through the processing of the fiber into yarn (and then fine fabrics), to the cutting and sewing of every jacket using a combination of modern machinery and hand finishing. “The perfect fit of a Zegna suit comes from constructing it with 100 pieces; the lining alone comprises 12 separate components,” adds Zegna. After each piece is precision cut, it passes through the hands of hundreds of tailors, whose singular purpose is to turn

THE SECRET of a Zegna suit isn’t just the meticulous way it’s put together, but the innovative cloth used to make it. The company’s founder and namesake, Ermenegildo Zegna, began as a fabric maker in 1910 with the creation of a natural wool weighing roughly 350 grams per square meter, considered featherweight by early 20th-century standards. Today, most Zegna fabrics weigh in at a fraction of that and include such technical advances as Trofeo, a worsted wool made of prestige Australian superfine merino wool with long fibers for added strength and resiliency, and the latest 13milmil13, a vicuna-like fabric made from

merino yarns measuring less than 13 microns. (To appreciate how exceptional this is, one need only reflect on the fact that a human hair measures roughly 50 to 60 microns.) The development of such fine micron wools is the result of Zegna’s 1963 initiative, the Vellus Aureum trophy, which motivates and awards Australia and New Zealand’s sheep farmers who produce these ultra-fine wools. Pioneering fabrics for spring include Zero Weight, a blend of superfine merino wool and silk with a yarn count of 600—the finest silk quality in the world. The company is also moving forward with last year’s Cool Effect, in which fine Australian

one-dimensional pieces of cloth into a three-dimensional garment worthy of the most discriminating clientele. The waistband, fly and belt loops on a pair of trousers can require more than 20 workers, and it takes the efforts of another 24 tailors to construct the sleeves of a jacket; nearly 190 sewers are involved in creating the body of a single jacket. Even the act of sewing a simple buttonhole “can take an eternity of careful cutting and stitching,” says Zegna. Once the fabric has been cut, corresponding pieces are carefully

wool is finished to enable dark fabrics to reflect heat like lightcolored ones. The result: a cloth that keeps the wearer 10 degrees cooler than if he were wearing an untreated fabric. “Fabric represents Zegna’s heritage and it’s the primary focus of our innovation,” says Anna Zegna, noting that the brand offers more than 700 cloth options, including 200 new fabrics each season, as part of its made-to-measure suit service. Over the course of the company’s 100-year history, “Zegna has invented over 20 unique and innovative fabrics in various colors, patterns and textures, which have become staples of our collection.”

bundled and passed down to the tailors and sewers to construct the garment, which can take as long as four days to wind its way through the 110-step production cycle. Upon completion each suit undergoes an arduous pressing process performed by dozens of workers: six to press the slacks and another 22 to press and hand-iron the jacket before it receives its final inspection. If the finished garment meets the company’s lofty standards, it is literally given the Zegna seal of approval as the signature logo is sewn in place.

HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING

SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT

ASBA

PHOTOGRAPHY

a walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, and location for the film Lawrence of Arabia – provides the perfect canvas for the bold, romantic and timeless looks of spring 2012...

citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink

THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose. OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia,

romantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

The Jacket THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN

Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket. A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential ﬁnishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unﬁnished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-ﬁber” designed to beat the heat, a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis—even your favorite shorts!

MEMORABLE!

JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE AND ELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUAL EVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON OR CASHMERE...A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCE AND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.

MEMORABLE!

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF THINKING THAT JUST BECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEED A JACKET!

FORGETTABLE

The Ermenegildo Zegna 10-Pocket Blazer

3 1 2

THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.

5 1

5 7 9

9 10

10 8

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC. STYLING: WENDY MCNETT FOR AGENT OLIVER. GROOMING: TREVOR BOWDEN FOR BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI

JACKET NOT OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAY BE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

Taking photos at rock concerts started out as a hobby for NYC teenager Neal Preston. But with his unique ability to capture not just the celebrity but the spirit and humanity within, Preston ultimately became one of the preeminent rock star photographers of our era, traveling around the world with famous musicians for the past four decades. His work has appeared on covers and features in major magazines (Time, People, Rolling Stone), newspapers, movies and on count-

less record and CD covers. We caught up with Preston at a recent photography exhibit at The Morrison Hotel Gallery in SoHo.

What life lessons have you learned from traveling around the world with rock stars? I’ve learned that music touches everyone in a very deep and spiritual place, as it does me. If you take someone’s music away—and it doesn’t matter if it’s rock, hip-hop, classical, whatever—you are ripping out his soul…

Top left: Stevie Nicks at home in Venice, California, 1981 Left: Freddie Mercury at London’s Wembley Stadium, 1986

ALL IMAGES BY NEAL PRESTON

photography

STAR

PHOTOGRAPHER NEAL PRESTON ON CAPTURING MOMENTS IN TIME. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

I’ve also learned that the greatest luxury in life is to be able to take private rather than commercial flights!

How do you manage to get these very wired guys to relax? How do you capture them in ordinary moments?

Jimmy Page, onstage during Led Zeppelin’s 1977 U.S. tour

It’s all about being a fly on the wall. Mind you, that’s not something that can be taught; you just have to go by instinct. There is a real finesse involved with figuring out when to remain invisible and when not to. If you start to act like you’re the fifth member of Led Zeppelin, you’re gonna have a big fat problem…

What was the strangest moment you ever experienced at a rock concert? There are many. But having Peter Grant (Led Zeppelin’s legendary manager) tell me to actually go onstage during a show and stand in front of the drummer (John Bonham) and shoot him was pretty bizarre.

What do you consider your greatest accomplishment? Many people have told me that they can hear the music when they look at my photos.

Who do you most admire? I’m not sure “admiration” would be the right description, but the two musicians who have influenced my life are Pete Townshend and John Lennon. Pete for the honesty in his writing, his creativity, his tortured genius, his ability to look at life from multiple points of view… I could go on and on. And John Lennon, for showing me what “cool” really is, for giving me the greatest soundtrack to life a teenager could have, and for allowing me to realize that music was, and always will be, in my DNA.

T H E

U L T I M A T E

T R O U S E R

SPRING 2012

A P PA R E L F O R M E N

world scene

THE ART OF STYLE

e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a very fashionable hotel. Between rushing out to glamorous appointments, modish guests dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long for cocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend by Clarins (which has the longest indoor pool in Paris). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers. Paintings, drawings and photography exhibitions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere. There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Garden in Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le Royal Monceau is also home to the city’s first art concierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treasures and organizes excursions, such as a visit to contemporary art galleries in the Marais and St. Germain areas, or a private viewing of the Henri Matisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, home is where the art is.

BAYEUX TOURIST OFFICE

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

UN JOUR EN NORMANDIE

he lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape layered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and artifacts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers of Louis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italianstyle gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a family estate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm, where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

SUMMER READING

IMAGE BY GLENN SUOKKO

here’s a reason Twin Farms is a nice place to curl up with a good book. Set in Vermont, just north of Woodstock on 300 acres of meadows and woodlands, this quiet country hideaway was once the home of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson. Here, many of the great names in literature gathered to talk (and probably argue) about their work and lives. Twin Farms retains its aura of simplicity and coziness. There are hand-painted murals, rich maple and pine woodwork, American folk art and rustically elegant accommodations, with king-size feather beds, wood-burning fireplaces and screened porches. If you need to stretch, there’s hiking, biking, tennis, pond swimming, fly fishing and canoeing. But why bother? Just relax and catch up on your reading.

PLUGGED IN

ven if you’re not a motorcycle enthusiast, chances are you’re going to want to tool around the countryside (or slip quickly through city traffic) this summer on the top-of-the-line bike from Evolve. The Titanium XR is all electric: no gas, no oil, no emissions. It can go up to 60 miles per hour, has a range of 100 miles on one charge and is almost completely silent. At your request, Evolve will even make coordinating accessories, such as a container sized perfectly to hold your picnic basket or bottle of bubbly.

FROM THE TOP

IMAGE BY GREG POWERS

n warm evenings, New Yorkers love to gather at rooftop lounges. Upstairs At The Kimberly is a favorite among celebrities and fashion insiders. The view is spectacular, the lounge is never uncomfortably crowded (there’s a strict rule about the number of people admitted), and the staff is charming. Together, sommeliers Branimir Kostic and Niko Mavreas have created an extensive list that boasts a collection of spirits and wines from all over the world, including an astonishing 26 different kinds of Champagne. There are wonderful savory and sweet things to munch on (try the truffled mac and cheese or lobster sliders), and either sommelier is happy to help guests choose a wine and food pairing. Reach for the stars.

CLASSIC TECHNO-COTTON SHORT-SLEEVE POLO WITH NEVER-ROLL COLLAR HANDCRAFTED IN THE USA STYLE 3046

S I N C E 193 3

LY N C H B U R G , VA

S H OW N: W E E KE ND B AG N U B U C K B I S O N TA N

art

Art

MIND-“BLOWINGLY” BEAUTIFUL BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

GLASS A MIXTURE of the most common materials—sand, calcium and ash—is transformed by fire into glass. Artists turn it into masterpieces. Making glass dates back to about 2500BC in Mesopotamia. Phoenicians were accomplished glassmakers as were the Egyptians, known for stunning turquoise and blue pieces created with copper and cobalt oxides. But it was the Syrians who discovered glassblowing in 50BC. Until then, glass objects were luxury items, considered more valuable than precious gems. Apart from some jewelry—beads and amulets—most glass was used for utilitarian purposes: holding wine, perfume and oils. Glassblowing made it possible for large quantities of diverse glassware to be produced inexpensively, creating two categories of glass: luxury and functional. Over the centuries, various areas became renowned as glass centers: Venice, Bohemia, France, Sweden. But while a few individual artists such as René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany became internationally recognized for innovations in the field, glassmaking 72

Gauguin’s IslandIII by Peter Layton

IMAGE THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS

Above: Ruby Conical Intersection with Amber Sphere by Harvey K. Littleton Right: Squill I byAdam Aaronson

remained industry based, often shrouded in secrecy. It wasn’t until the 1960s in the United States that the idea took hold that individual artists could create art glass objects in their own studios. Fueled by desire and technical advances, in 1962 artist Harvey K. Littleton and glass scientist Dominick Labino led groundbreaking workshops at the Toledo Museum of Art, introducing artists to the use of glass as a material for contemporary art. Soon, glassmaking programs sprang up at universities and art schools across the country, and what became known as the Studio Glass Movement developed into an international phenomenon. Dale Chihuly is one of the bestknown American artists to emerge from the movement. But British artist Peter Layton also happened to be in the States at the time, teaching ceramics at the

University of Iowa; he became so taken by the properties of glass that he changed disciplines. “Glass has a life and will of its own that you need to work with rather than control,” explains Layton. “I love the fluidity of the medium and the spontaneity it demands.” Back in England, the glass-smitten Layton established The Contemporary Glass Society to support and encourage glassmakers and opened the London Glassblowing Workshop to create and teach contemporary glass art. Now, Peter Layton and one of his initial students, Adam Aaronson, are considered mainstays of London’s art glass scene. Both take nature as an inspiration and “landscape” and “painterly influences”

Viewing Art Glass

are two major areas of common exploration. Although the execution is quite different, their work has the feeling of Impressionist paintings rendered in solid form. “As an artist, I am inspired by the ceaseless variability of light on the landscape, in the sky and on

water,” Aaronson says. “Glass is the ideal medium to express this idea of continual change since its properties are inherently fluctuating, not only in its molten state but also in the way the play of light creates endless nuances in the finished piece.”

In 2012, the 50th anniversary of the Studio Glass Movement is being celebrated at museums across the world.

THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS Corning, New York (www.cmog.org) Special 2012 Exhibitions: Founders of American Studio Glass: Harvey K. Littleton & Dominick Labino; Masters of Studio Glass: Erwin Eisch; Making Ideas: Experiments in Design at GlassLab

TACOMA ART MUSEUM Tacoma, Washington (www.TacomaArtMuseum.org) Permanent Collection: Chihuly: Gifts from the Artist

ZeST GALLERY AT THE INTERNATIONAL SCULPTURE OBJECTS & FUNCTIONAL ART FAIR New York and Santa Fe (www.sofaexpo.com) 2012: Pieces by Adam Aaronson and Peter Layton

MALOUF’S FORUM SPRING 2012