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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
AUTUMN / WINTER 14-15 RUNWAY REPORT
F
ashion weeks at New York and London are recognised primarily for their chic yet understated style, relying heavily on silhouettes appropriate for the ready-to-wear segment. Designers in New York aimed at tapping the workwear category focussing on relaxed silhouettes and menswear fabrics as the long coats, wide-legged pants and unisex blazers would have us believe. London, on the other hand, revelled in glamour for appeal, even though it was coloured in a rather unassuming demeanour. So while there were separates which aligned with the ones shown at New York, equally intriguing were lace, peek-a-boo gowns, flirty ruffled dresses, sequin splashed garments and more importantly, the hybrid skirts and dresses which have a vast scope as standalone separates. As for Milan and Paris, glamour never fails to make a mighty appearance on the runways of these cities, apparent in the structures of avant-garde silhouettes and in the sheen of oxidized jacquards. From mid-century romances to eerie fairytales to iconic folkloric tales, designers divided a plethora of inspirations. While the medieval air brought with it full covered cloaks, dramatic necklines and razor sharp pleats, running parallel with it was a warrior like sensibility which boasted of heavy metal work, harness straps and caged bodices. As outerwear – in lacquered jacquards, knits and wool – became even more oversized, resembling mystical capes, dark fairytales could be deduced as the obvious subject of inspiration. Intricate beadwork on flared dresses, together with whimsical appliqué, spanning from squirrels to oriental blooms celebrated designers’ fascination for the surreal. Basking in a similar vibe, lurex knits imparted knitwear with a particularly perky demeanour, making the category even more exciting.
Standalone Trends Prominent looks that dominate the season, in terms of print, silhouette, colour and detail.
Themes A culmination of fabrics, value addition and shapes which make up a wholesome theme with a variety of trends.
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Antonio Berardi
Calvin Klein Collection
Diesel Black Gold
A.F. Vandevorst
Acne Studios
Alexander Wang
Hunter Original
Fendi
Emporio Armani
Helmut Lang
Jason Wu
Coat Along Fall has been struck by a wave of long lengths, the rendition of which, in winter coats, has emerged as one of the stronger silhouette categories. Conceived as a solid separate and not a flinging outerwear, designers seek inspiration from varied design elements: double-breasted and wrap coats making a strong case in point. While most versions skipped defining a waist, opting to work with a dropped waist on coat dresses as a clear ode to power dressing, other styles, where the waist was rather defined with thick waist belts, hit the notes on sublime femininity. Masculine lapels and crisp collars flanked by chunky pockets and metallic closures suit the androgynous side of the trend.
Antonio Marras
Balmain
Tommy Hilfiger
Traveller Utility fashion seems to have made a strong point with safari silhouettes pressing upon the inclusion of functional elements in fashion. Straight- cut jackets, allovers and even hybrid tunics have been laden with huge pockets a la safari jackets. Befitting the realms of not only travelling, the outerwear spreads it wings to possibilities of outdoor adventure- hiking, hunting, skiing, etc.- as suggested by the clever execution of customised pockets on coats. The silhouettes derive inspiration from the urbane idea of adventure and the palette of greys, military greens, ink blues and slate greys translate the story rather well.
Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Altuzarra
Balenciaga
Creatures of the Wind
Barbara Bui
BCBG Max Azria
Daks
DKNY
Mark Fast
Givenchy
Osman
Tibi
The Robe Coat Leaving pre-fall’s fascination with the bulky blanket coats behind, this fall, the runway was flooded with the robe coat. The uncomplicated silhouette achieved novelty in various different prints and fabrics with Christian Siriano presenting a fuzzy emerald coat, cinched with a leather belt and Richard Chai featuring his in oversized plaid checks. Peter Som, The Row and Tory Burch focussed on comfort with fabric belts tightened at the waist, keeping the cozy in, whereas Altuzzara went for exaggeration by opting for lapels in a solid colour blocked version. Coats that actually keep warm on chilly winter nights are now a mainstream trend, with forgiving lengths and being paired with pants, leggings or simply as separates.
Mara Hoffman
Richard Nicoll
Tommy Hilfiger
Knit Cape Following Pre Fall’s mania of cape coats, designers have transcended to knits for constructing roomy throwovers with a visibly cozy demeanour. While the ones in flat knits have come across as sweater kimonos-in some cases, printed and in others, with thick cable knits-circular knits too make a promising appearance. Form- fitting pullovers with an attached shoulder trail or ponchos delivered in blanket fabric ending in tassels, the circular knit styles appeal for their lighter structure and contoured fit. Cardigans have also found a way with the trend as they have been constructed on the lines of long cape coats- with sleeves and droopy shoulders.
Fashion Forward Trends
Joseph
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Alexander Wang
Calvin Klein Collection
Dries Van Noten
Belstaff
Dion Lee
Eudon Choi
Felder Felder
Michael Kors
Sister by Sibling
Fashion East
Fausto Puglisi
Roksanda Ilincic
Sweater Column Sweater dress has all the qualities of a stellar, ready-to-wear, separate. Uncomplicated construction aside, what makes this trend even more viable is its direct association with the much-accepted phenomenon of relaxed contours. As most versions have kept the silhouette devoid of any fit, the silhouette mostly knocks on knits and chunky woollens for its slack structure. Finished at a length generously below the knee, the athletic interpretations of the dress include familiar elements, whether for cozy turtlenecks or exceedingly long sleeves. Designers who viewed the trend in light of dainty eveningwear gave in to asymmetric and strappy necklines, additional feminine respite coming from either combinations of sheer and mohair or polka dots.
Daks
Hybrid Skirts Hybrid has been the mood of the season and as its application leaves no silhouette, it is most definite that the idea of fusion is to be carried forth a season or two. Fall will see the advent of the deconstructed skirt, which takes elements from not only lowers but, in an experimental streak, borrows elements from formal outerwear. The wrap slit skirt of spring has been structured like languid culottes and draped trousers in some case and in others, as a trail on roomy shorts. More innovative versions of the wrap skirt, where bondage closures circle the wrap along with a tied version, which bears resemblance with the lower half of an overcoat, offer multiple possibilities of the trend.
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Fashion Forward Trends
Duro Olowu
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Andrew Gn
Derek Lam
Emilia Wickstead
Akris
Ashish
Emilio de la Morena
Mother of Pearl
MSGM
Simone Rocha
Marc Jacobs
Marco de Vincenzo
Marni
Balloon Traditional in its midi-length and chic in its relaxed bottom, the balloon dress is a silhouette that epitomises sophistication with added comfort. While some designers constructed the garment in lightweight fabrics with cinching at the waist and neck, others went for a structured exterior in silks and jacquards. Prints on calf length dresses can be stitched for casual daytime purposes or floor length ones with an exaggerated bottom can be adopted for a dramatic collection.
Christopher Kane
Delicate Waves This silhouette detail takes shape in various fall collections either to explore the ethereal world or the cutting edge futuristic one. Fabrics were the differential factor in the trend with most silhouettes being put together in filmy sheer ones – net, chiffon, organza – and others constructed in velvet and knit to develop a stiffer appeal. This trend can be achieved through careful layering of the waves on top of each other or by going for random abstract versions in curvy lines. Neck lapels, hemlines and shoulders are perfect for boasting this detail on various separates.
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Fashion Forward Trends
Felder Felder
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Aquilano.Rimondi
Chanel
Donna Karan
Badgley Mischka
Bibhu Mohapatra
Dolce & Gabbana
Josie Natori
Les Copains
Tex Saverio
Emilio Pucci
Marco de Vincenzo
MSGM
Laser Cut Reserving a spot in the back row, laser cut, although not immediately, but definitely breathed fresh air into collections. Something out of a psychology laboratory, designers created their own versions of the Rorschach test, interpreting it in whatever they perceived and the next person conceiving it just as differently. From all over cutouts on dresses, revealing a layered fabric within to peek-a-boo cutouts at random revealing nothing but skin, fabrics used varied from suede to leather to continuous appearances by felt.
Alberta Ferretti
Metallic Jacquard Engaging in novel textures to replicate dark florals and emulsion prints from last season, designers used various methods to convey their stories through their clothes. The juxtaposition between the gloomy shades and the luxe brought in by the metallic sheen created a dark surreal atmosphere. A range of options were provided, from lurex woven jacquard to lurex thread embroidery to embossed fabric printed with metallic foil. Shades of silver, gold, copper, midnight blue and rust red were seen dominating the runways, with brighter hues staying on the backburner.
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Fashion Forward Trends
Blumarine
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marco de Vincenzo
Meadham Kirchhoff
3.1 Phillip Lim
Edun
Lacoste
Michael Kors
Todd Lyn
Trussardi
Marc Jacobs
Narciso Rodriguez
Philosophy
Winter Shine Evening wear gets its fair share as glamour is spelled not only through fancy silhouettes but through fabrics with an intrinsic celestial shine. Whether for the pared down holographic tulle skirt, worn under a grey knit sweater or peasant shirt dress constructed in beaded glass nylon, designers are quick to include a host of silhouettes to embrace the trend. Lurex yarn has been knitted and woven for a natural shine in garments; for glamorous sporty separates, chenille yarns have been combined with lurex to produce shiny knits, alternatively it has been woven with crepe for a pleated skirt. While lame has been carried forward from last season, lacquered polyester, although stiff, has been used successfully on dropped waist allovers and shirts.
Jonathan Saunders
Colour Presented through different geometric shapes and angles, this colour story does not harp on bright colours, rather includes subdued shades generally affiliated with winter. Camel browns, taupes, sand dusts, beiges dominate this palette along with glacier and steel greys, which are beautifully synchronised with hints of burgundy and orange. The darker tones are laid onto the lighter hues as base and the sharp cuts create a subtle futuristic illusion which looks almost three dimensional, whether on the belted coat dresses or the knit column dresses or the oversized sweaters.
Fashion Forward Trends
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autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Prudent Dames
The Conservatives
The School Girl
Covered necklines, full sleeves and modest hemlines- this look earnestly induces fashion with a sense of prudence. With bibs for necklines and pleated cloaks for shoulders, the nunnery dresses make an evident effort to conceal the skin.
Prim, proper and covered in folds of long-established traditions, the conservatives strike back disguised as the lawmakers of medieval times, the Victorian era conformists, the religion-abiding nuns and the prissy, school girl. Embracing full-covered silhouettes from the eras of the past or even giving into the intensely controlled waists of the last century creates a cult of valued beliefs, the cause of which, in contemporary space, is championed by unfussy, covered necklines and precisely pleated skirts. A soothing palette of pastels not once interferes with the calm tenor of the trend nor does the straightforward selection of fabrics.
Borrowed from the closet of a school girl, crisp white shirts and woollen dresses have been worn with sincerity. Neatly pleated skirts in dual tones, kneelength dresses and crisp collars instantly relate to uniform dressing.
Victorian Idealism
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The Victorian story thrives on dramatic elements, the application of which, on garments, isn’t necessarily dated. Exaggerated at the hip, the dresses only partially evoke a Victorian sensibility; however the intensely corseted waists, décolletage necklines and flouncy sleeves hark back to an era of ideal femininity.
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Lawmakers
A strict tone of tailoring is adopted as women adorn intimidating long coats and mannish trousers. Fitted at the waist, coat dresses have been constructed with long tails, uneven hems and dramatic Elizabethan collars. Black dominates the story as an obvious colour of authority and establishment.
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1 Michael van der Ham 2 Zero + Maria Cornejo 3 Hervé Léger by Max Azria 4 Bottega Veneta 5 Topshop Unique
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1 Emporio Armani 2 Dolce & Gabbana 3 Alexander McQueen 4 Simone Rocha
5 1 Burberry Prorsum 2 Prada 3 Honor 4 Givenchy 5 Preen by Thornton Bregazzi 6 Michael Kors
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1 Wes Gordon 2 Ann Demulemeester 3 Antonio Marras 4 Alexis Mabille 5 Aganovich
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Fashion Forward Trends
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autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
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Charmed Prints
A Fiery Tale
The prints comprise of tiny enchanted forest prints and all over busy forest blossoms to several medieval references.
For fall, fairy tales have been churned with a hint of melancholia and a particularly dark demeanor, which feeds on luminescence of fabrics and captivatingly intricate embroideries. As the classic baby doll silhouette gets tweaked to fit the wardrobe of this modern day princess, delicate laces get replaced by reflective satins and glass nylons. In billowy capes that leave little rooms for sleeves, motifs that narrate a familiar story from the early days and hoods, which induce bouts of mystery, designers have us believe not every Red Riding Hood is as innocent as she may seem.
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Come Alive
From appliquĂŠ with magical woodland imagery to owls, butterflies and various creatures to 3D dark florals and tree of life patterns on border and large scale placements are made to look life like.
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Cape-ing Around
A-line gowns with ample puff are complimented by mysterious hoodies and overpowering capes. The flowy silhouette is quickly juxtaposed with the straight stiff outerwear which covers all but the face.
1 Dolce And Gabbana 2 Valentino
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Elaborate Simplicity
The silhouettes are rendered in fabrics with fur inserts on net, lace intricate embroidery and shiny coated cutout structures.
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1 Alexander McQueen 2 Dolce & Gabbana 3 Les Copains 4 Valentino 5 Alexander McQueen 6 Valentino 7 Valentino 8 Alexander McQueen
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1 Dolce & Gabbana 2 Alexander McQueen 3 John Rocha 8
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Tunes of Folklore
Culture Fest
Native Trivia
Eccentric patterns and nostalgic colours celebrate the spirit of folklore. Symbolic imagery is worked on embroidery encrusted motifs and appliquéd animal imagery further paving way for vibrant beadwork on chiffons, sectional patterns on knits and abstract cord embroidery.
Influences from every corner of the world- from the decorative patterns of Far East to the indulgent colours of Native America to delicate blooms of the orient culture- came together at the fall collections backed by a nostalgic folkloric tune and a genuine admiration for home grown techniques. Envisioned in an evoking, traditional palette and through a range of rich embroideries- appliqué, bead and metal work, cord embroidery et al- designers laid out, on silhouettes, vibrant faces of many a culture. The trend spectacularly succeeded in consuming fabrics beyond the obvious chiffons and georgettes as intricate patterns took a firmer shape on not only lightweight knits but chunky sweaters as well.
Handcrafted textures, weaving manipulations, toggle switches and blanket dressing give character to this story. Fur often shows up in details and trims; heather and winter pile substitute for fur in wearable coats and dresses. Zigzag prints on knits and woven mediums account for familiar native patterns.
Oriental Exotica
To The East
Roomy tunics, palazzo pants and column dresses welcome eastern influences. Architectural patterns reflect in, rich white and golden threadwork, Islamic inspired placement prints, quilted surfaces and decorative brasso fabrics.
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Duchesse satin layered with delicate laces suggest the advent of oriental boudoir. Exotic flowerscherry blossom and peoniesare highlighted in exquisite techniques of appliqué, sequin and thread embroidery. Deep gold is recurrent in jacquard, brocades and luxurious prints.
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1 J. Mendel 2 Band Of Outsiders 3 Mara Hoffman 4 Anna Sui 5 Alexander Wang 6 Emilio Pucci
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2 1 Anna Sui 2 Diane Von Furstenberg 3 Antonio Marras 4 Blumarine 5 Tommy Hilfiger 6 Mother of Pearl
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6 3 1 Mara Hoffman 2 Mara Hoffman 3 The Row 4 Clover Canyon 5 Meadham Kirchhoff
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1 Mara Hoffman 2 Mary Katrantzou 3 Louis Vuitton 4 Burberry Prorsum 5 Meadham Kirchhoff 6 Stella Jean
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Dark Alley
Fabric
Nylon, leather with jacquard, velvet, threadwork quilting, lace cutouts, black sequin and sheer raincoat fabric incorporate life into the theme.
The murky mysteries that lie dormant in the shadows of dark allies stir up this theme to awaken the rebel inside all of us – Creatures of the dark. The silhouettes are oversized yet doused with power, the details achieve intricacy and the colour story revolves around one standalone shade – sinister black.
Silhouettes Hooded capes, structured coats with exaggerated standing collars, long languid tops swaying along and buffed up jackets define the key separates.
1 Felder Felder 2 Vera Wang 3 Christopher Kane 4 Carolina Herrera 5 Cushnie Et Ochs
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1 Emilia Wickstead 2 Zero + Maria Cornejo 3 Zero + Maria Cornejo
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Details
Quilting was established on a swirly patterned threadwork, sequin and beads on a sheer top, quilted patterns on hard leather, gory lace attached to nylon separates, furry detailing on shoulders and insectopedia was revisited.
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1 Bottega Veneta 2 Anna Sui 3 Christian Dior 4 Giles 5 Fendi
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Fashion Laboratory
Trim Ahead
Embellishments alternate between steam punkish metal trims, ethereal stones and semi- stitched blocks of panels. Interlaced leather strip with ribbed knits provides an innovative insight for material value-addition.
The season takes collective flight as designers transform their design workshop to laboratories, permuting and combining the most unexpected fabrics, pondering over complicated surfaces and curating silhouettes beyond one’s years. Structured and shape defining, garments find identity in a world of breakthrough inventions as leather embossed and lacquered knits are set to become a regular feature in collections. Knits, in particular, befriend the trend in all their futuristic glory as innovators rake up the many interpretations the material can deliver. 1
Towering Necks
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Turtlenecks on masculine jackets add an androgynous dimension to the theme. Zipped or buttoned way above the neck, the rigidity of its contour is restored through patent leather, coated fleece and furlined flannel.
Structural Leap
Structure is key in silhouette construction and is evident in the minutest of details; crisp overturned cuffs, leather piping and riveted sleeves impart garments a stiff exterior. Fabric innovation comes through the introduction of shrunk jacquard fabrics and crackled gold leather.
1 Francesco Scognamiglio 2 J. Mendel
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Future Imprint
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1 Preen by Thornton Bregazzi 2 Bibhu Mohapatra
Shoulder Alert
1 J.W. Anderson 2 Just Cavalli 3 Issey Miyake 4 David Koma
4 3 1 Alexander Wang 2 Bibhu Mohapatra 3 Akris 4 Gabriele Colangelo
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Designers’ fixation with round shoulder strengthens as fancy duchesse satins are panelled with coral-inspired, bead encrusted wool.
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Sci-fi face prints, Star Wars references, DNA bar motifs rendered on ivory bases in metallic shades and gridlike structures usher ultramodern prints.
Coated Shine
Technical Tryst
PU and patent leather rank high on designers’ material list, especially for structured skirts.
Crackled metallic textures patterned in planet surfaces together with complicated knotting and knitting patterns have been rendered with a seasoned love for technical techniques.
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1 Alexander Wang 2 Balenciaga 1 4
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1 Ports 1961 2 Balenciaga 3 Alexander Wang
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1 Emilio de la Morena 2 Tod’s
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Menswear Fabric Presenting a series of classics, designers constructed womenswear, patterned in familiar menswear fabrics. Traditional pinstripes, plaid, Prince of Wales checks were seen running in formals on a gamut of separates, from the obvious exploitation on big coats and trousers to skirts, deconstructed tunic dresses and waistcoats. Leaping forth, a few collections detoured from the usual by creating formalwear with generous amounts of glitter, printed sheen and abstract patterns to probe into the glamorous territory of work-wear, that is, if it ever existed in the first place.
Classic
The use of prim, formal and mostly neutral shades molded into traditional contours from the 50’s to the 80’s – including ginghams, stripes and plaids.
1 Les Copains 2 Preen by Thornton Bregazzi 3 Emporio Armani 4 Paul Smith 5 Versace
Jazzy
Experimenting with shiny fabrics in satin and shimmer defines these formals, in bouts of prints, patchwork and merging of two fabrics in one separate.
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Contemporary
Retaining the heavy fabrics but molding the styles to create hybrid dresses, skirts and pant suits categorizes the trend of classics with a modern identity.
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1 Francesco Scognamiglio 2 Stella Jean 3 Akris 4 J.W. Anderson 5 Emporio Armani
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Work on Sheer
Opulence
Sheer base was enriched with gemstones in patterns, appliquĂŠd with coloured lace, studs resembling art deco, sequin creating geometric shapes, embroidery in swirls, velvet and satin patches.
A successor to boudoir and transparency, opulence as a trend celebrates a plethora of techniques and embellishments that embody the femme fatale living it up and blowing through her inheritance on the Upper East Side. From shiny nothings gleaming on sheer separates to intricate lace on sinuous ones, the textures, details and application all scream classy and exclusive.
Laced Up
Lace was appliquĂŠd, lacquered and used with shimmering embroidery and merged with other diaphanous fabrics to create formations far more elaborate than before.
1 Roberto Cavalli 2 Temperley London 3 Luisa Beccaria 4 Emilia Wickstead 5 Luisa Beccaria 6 Blumarine
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1 Jonathan Saunders 2 House of Holland 3 Alexander McQueen 4 Marios Schwab 5 Topshop Unique 6 Jason Wu 7 Antonio Marras 8 Alexis Mabille
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Warrior Princess
Detail Shots
Embellishment
Criss cross thick straps, mesh bodices, heavily belted torsos and pieces composed of scales of leather all contribute to the medieval fantasy.
This theme involves powerful garments that befit warriors preparing for battle. Armour like construction through mesh and leather for strength, caged patterns to protect against sharp weapons and cord embroidery and metallic studs for the sheer pleasure of aesthetic beauty; all add up to this power packed trend.
Various metallic studs in random shapes are accompanied by intricate cord embroidery to soften the silhouettes in appearance while actually rendering them with more strength.
Metal Cage
The silhouette is body hugging, short and full sleeved while the structure is kept strong through the fabrics like mesh and leather. 2
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Grid
The grid patterns lend to the warrior appeal by resembling hard fitted corsets for self-defence. 1 2
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1 Valentino 2 Chloé 3 Emilio Pucci 4 Valentino
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1 Blumarine 2 Gucci 3 Versace 4 David Koma
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1 Mary Katrantzou 2 Gucci 3 Balmain 4 Tory Burch
1 Simone Rocha 2 David Koma 3 Hervé Léger by Max Azria 4 Daks
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Fashion Forward Trends
autumn/winter 2014-15 | runway report | FFT magazine
Prints
Urban Jungle
Symmetry in pattern takes a definite backseat as designers bank on abstraction for a stronger appeal. From swirly optical patterns and graphic Archimedean shapes to fractured and colour-blocked shapes, geometry continues to make a statement in collections. Textures further derive inspiration from elements in nature as grainy wood surfaces, marbleised lines and psychedelic mineral formations, in some cases intensely distorted. Texture graduations invite painterly gradation in tonal hues with serene ombres and free-hand dip dyeing techniques rendered delicately on feminine silhouettes.
Tiptoeing between urban and tribal, chaotic prints make their way on figureflattering silhouettes where a mĂŠlange of oversized blossoms, detailed botanicals, decorative tribal, animal skins and abstract geometry come into play.
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Broken Forms
Patterns are induced with abstraction as obscure shapes, both clashing and complimentary, are laid on a solid colour. The formations, mostly jagged, are assembled in an unsynchronised collage.
Out of Order
The haphazard quality of these prints can be worked into silhouettes smartly enough to create shape illusions. While the runways stuck to monochromes, colours can altogether insinuate a new dimension too.
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1 Fausto Puglisi 2 Roksanda Ilincic
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Psychedelic prints take inspiration from organic elements- wood grain textures, prehistoric fossil patterns, distorted marble surfaces and fuzzy mineral formations are blurred and rippled for a textural trip.
Tonal Tactics
Tonal gradation invites deeper shades blending in with complimentary hues, the progression of which smoothens like a watercolour effect.
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1 Matthew Williamson 2 Roberto Cavalli 3 Tracy Reese 4 Prada
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1 4 5 1 Preen by Thornton Bregazzi 2 Bibhu Mohapatra 3 Les Copains 4 Saloni
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1 Jenni Kayne 2 Duro Olowu 3 Peter Pilotto 4 Fashion East 5 Stella Jean