spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
The recurring bombers and sweatpants are definitive of fashion capitals around the world being at the helm of a massive sportswear season; however, their treatment of the subject has a clear distinction owing to their unique cultures. Minimal in character, designers at New York derived inspiration from the 90’s hip-hop days for ensembles, while London filtered the trend on similar lines but with a hint of royal femininity, suggestive of classic British sensibility. Absolutely contrasting were runways of Paris and Milan, where designers traded minimalism for opulence and infused sportswear with a couture-like quality, exploring chaotic prints and surfaces amongst bizarre fabrics.
The Row
Helmut Lang
However, all four fashion weeks revealed a serious inclination for sheer play, toying with ideas of transparency, layering and fabric juxtapositions in wearable fashion. While reviewing the trend, embellished sheers and laser-cut organza at Paris and Milan were easily distinguishable from the much cleaner silhouettes at New York and London, which relied heavily on sportswear for reference. Sassy workwear made more than a fleeting appearance at runways where London perked up classics and New York built uncomplicated silhouettes, leaving it to Paris and Milan to indulge in dramatic ensembles and theatrical appearances, experimenting occasionally with formal wear. Yet all four fashion weeks vied for expressing stronger femininity. New York called out to the urbane woman with easy ensembles and futuristic cuts; London stood for understated glamour consuming laces, sequins and iridescent surfaces; Milan basked in the exuberance of artistic prints and innovative panelling and Paris, fiercest of all, merged craftsmanship with exquisite pattern-making skill. Collectively, midi lengths were favoured, culottes and wide-legged pants appeared repeatedly, boxy tops stretched to wider bodices and longer lengths, sequins and embellishments were splashed generously and pastel palettes had a devoted following.
Damir Doma
Languid Lines
WOMENSWEAR
Fashion Forward Trends
A
Paul Smith
Emporio Armani
Duro Olowu
certain relaxed vibe has taken over the spring of 2014, swapping severe body cons for languid lines. Hence the look, part androgynous and part sporty, feeds on structural ease for silhouettes yet blends exceedingly well with formal daywear separates. Wide legged pants, whether for long palazzos, loose trousers or fuss-free culottes, dictated a fair share of the collections together with tunic and shift dresses, which fell straight on the body. A generous slouch prevailed amid office trousers and blazers which were rounded off by huge overturned cuffs. Continuing on Fall season’s boxy lines, short jackets and tops were sided by overblown sleeves and round shoulders. As designers expanded the regular fit to oversized contours, loose shirtdresses were paired with looser pants and extra large men’s shirts were tucked in pencil skirts.
Aquilano Rimondi
W
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
Bluemarine
Antonio Berradi
Antonio Marras
Balmain
Emilio Pucci
ith the spring season drawing near, the wall between ready-to-wear and activewear has thinned considerably, making enough room for a hybrid dressing of a kind – Sports couture. The bomber jacket has been constructed in boxy contours with ribbed hems, transformed into a short dress, belted and embellished for a fancy appearance and even sewn in luxurious printed silk. The casual fit on the running tracks, replaced by sleeker lines is complimented by tapered hems and stylised waistbands, similar as in the case of gym shorts, charted in leather and luxe fabrics. Bejewelled ganjis, sequined sweatpants and colour-blocked bralets aside, the athletic gowns−panelled in classic sporty colours with crisp racer backs – have directly been transported from the resort wear season, much like the sweatshirt, a Fall’s offspring-delivered in sheer bodices and lightweight knits.
Transparent Spring
Sports Couture
Fashion Forward Trends
Erdem
I
Rebecca Minkoff
Reem Acra
Lacoste
Sachin Babi
Fendi
t is tough to turn a blind eye to spring’s transparent streak, more so because every designer, minimal or ornate, has clinched on the trend. Seeing through delicate sheers, translucent silk organzas, PVC and airy chiffons, designers have covered spring in an air of light-weight fashion. Sheer tunics held a territory of their own, mostly layered over boudoir slips and short dresses. While long dresses in flimsy organzas, gowns with appliqué sheer bottoms and pencil skirts in peek-a-boo laces filled in for the feminine side of the trend, sheer bombers, sweats and sweatpants accounted for a gritty sportswear sensibility. The fabric play was further subjected to lucid surface details, braced by sheer-on-sheer patchwork in gradated and monochrome tones. Blocky patches on tunics, laser cut tiers and randomly arranged geometric shapes on midi length skirts spun an alternative story for the trend.
HermĂŠs
W
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
Dianne Von Furstenberg
BCBG Max Azria
CĂŠline
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Helmut Lang
hile the season had erratic affairs with more eras than one, a staple of the seventies was taken up with a sartorial air, twisted and revived to befit the contemporary realms of fashion. Dresses, skirts, shirts and even blazers were wrapped, some tied like a classic DVF wrap dress and some draped like traditional, oriental attire. The diagonal wrap on knee-length skirts spread to asymmetrical slits, the plackets shifted to the side-on crisp shirts and lapels fell crossways on sleeveless blazers. Borrowing its sensibility form martial arts, robes were also belted in similar silhouettes. The trend, however, translated familiarly on midi-length dresses, held together by belts, with some designers refreshingly choosing to construct the same in glossy leather.
BCBG Max Azria
Shirtdress Sass
Seventies Wrap
Fashion Forward Trends
Burberry Prorsum
D
Christian Dior
Carolina Herrera
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
No.21
eemed a work wear essential, the quintessential shirt dress has been tweaked to fit a multitude of categories for the coming season. The designers, ruffling past a swarm of clever details, constructed and deconstructed the classic silhouette. Alternating between short and long lengths, knee-length shirtdresses were rendered with classic piping, cut-out shoulders and asymmetrical gathers while midi lengths, and even maxis, boasted of hefty pockets and plackets running along the length of the dress. Embellished hems and cut-out shoulders made up for feminine details, gliding along intriguing details, where sleeve cuffs replaced waistbands and plackets extended to wrap closures. Other than the classic collar and cinched waist, shirtdresses veered towards longer sleeves with crisp overturned cuffs.
Fashion Forward Trends
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
Rag & Bone
H
Carolina Herrera
Kaelen
BCBG Max Azria
Antonio Marras
aving reigned the runways for more than two seasons now, the crop top’s translation for this season has the designers emphasising the addition of constructional dimensions to its otherwise simple contour. The collections tactically expanded the potential of short lengths by not only playing with the fit but by innovating on necklines and exaggerated sleeves. Addition of three-fourth cuffed sleeves on cropped shirts reinvented the classic silhouette alongside similar silhouettes in billowy sleeves. The round-neck, sleeveless cropped top – an obvious favourite of designers all over – was subjected to multiple interpretations which stood out for their use of frayed denim, deep cut-out shoulders, laser-cut fabrics. The occasional appearance of mesh on mini gym tops and fitted workout T-shirts collated with the sportswear-centric theme of the season.
Alexander Wang
Bouncing Bermuda
Crop That Top
Alexander Wang
Victoria Beckham
T
Topshop Unique
Whistles
Tommy Hilfiger
Assembly
he underdog of the men’s wardrobe has been brought back to life this spring season. In the wake of sportswear chancing upon a streak of androgyny, designers have taken after the bouncy Bermudas, replacing its slack fit with a tailored athleticism. Evoking a strong flavour of the 90’s hip hop, constructed pleated culottes in formal menswear fabric restored its sporty spirit with broad waistbands. Skater shorts gave the ensembles a touch of adventurous thrill alongside the knee-length variations in rich pastels and prints which brought out a vibe of seventies subculture. Stepping ahead, designers adapted to the trend with short suits, gliding along the lines of slouchy minimalism in formal wear category.
Fashion Forward Trends
S
Band Of Outsiders
Brandon Sun
Michael Kors
Fashion East
J. Mendel
Burberry Prorsum
Chadwick Bell
ummer’s affair with knits can hardly go unnoticed; the fabric backs one of the strongest trends for the season, one that instantly gets registered. The heavier side of knits is shown fittingly on full sleeved and sleeveless jumper-cum-tops, with some constructed in waffle, cable and popcorn knits. However, the lightweight knits stole the show, being consumed in athletic dresses and sweat separates, paired with other knit qualities. See through mesh knits panelled with thicker knits brought out the vibrancy of the fabric; so did embellished and printed knits. Given its nature, the trend beautifully embraced the sporty season with neoprene tennis dresses, boyish culottes and slashed swimwear.
Lost In Lace
Knit Bits
Etro
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
I
Dolce & Gabbana
Alberta Ferreti
Francesco Scognamiglio
Just Cavalli
n a rare sensual wave, a chunk of designers has been clasped by the intricate threads of lace for coming seasons. Fall’s boudoir magic has rubbed onto the spring collections, making the season more seductive and the lace fabric less delicate. Worn over slips or let alone, lace alternates between cinched and sheath dresses, fitted bodices and loose shirts, tunics and maxi lengths and, in an absolutely refreshing take, bombers and blazers. Sparsely placed patterns on flimsy laces add a see-through element inviting peeking colour while excessively intricate patterns on heavier laces evoke a strong sense of luxury. The fabric was skilfully utilised in sectional treatments, charted in hem details on micro shorts, paired with mesh, knits and satin on fitted gowns and used as waistband details on skater skirts.
Fashion Forward Trends
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
Luxe Silk
Altuzarra
A
Jenny Packham
Josie Natori
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Derek Lam
fine fabric quality made more than a promising appearance at the runway, lending its exquisiteness to the lot of ready-to-wear. Apart from gracing the usual evening wear ensembles, silks have been subsumed in office wear separates; folksy silks translated well on peasant blouses and slit skirts, occasionally appearing on tapered trousers. Panelled with denim on slip dresses for a hybrid athletic feel, silk also took a sporty leap with bomber jackets and culottes. The fabric rose to new levels with designers broadening it with intriguing fabric developments – lacquered silk made for a striking trench dress, stretchable silk spread on a slip gown and floral printed foil silk that could hardly be identified on technical anoraks.
Ashish
Jen Kao
Misha Nonoo
Marques’Almeida
Denim Reign
Dolce & Gabbana
I
DKNY
Dsquared2
t is no secret that 2014 is regarded as the year of denim revival and the recent collections resurrect that very fact. For this season, denim was less dramatic and primarily revolved around the loose fitting silhouette, with designers working with stiffer qualities for structured outerwear, midi-lengths and boxy tops. Jeans and culottes aligned to the slouchy vibe, rendered in dark, washed and patched denim while skirts oscillating between pencil and A-line silhouettes, finished in pleats or asymmetrical hems. Tattered edges-torn at the knee, shredded hems, rough flap pockets and frayed waists-offered an edgy dimension to the otherwise sombre trend.
Fashion Forward Trends
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
Lanvin
I
Hervé Léger By Max Azria
Balmain
DKNY
J. Mendel
n a playful 1920’s swirl, fluted hems have found their way back in ready to wear ensembles after their brief encounter with the Fall season. The classic flared-at-the-end hem swung between feminine and sporty separates, as designers widened its workability and appeal. The hem was treated with a generous flare on quilted, high waist skirts and panelled asymmetrically on micro tennis skirts. Variations were also seen on studded leather skirts and slip dresses, on which the hem fell rather flatly, meekly resembling a handkerchief hem as opposed to fitted separates sewn in metallic and mesh fabrics which boasted of a structured flare. Refreshingly, designers chose to flare the hems of formal shirtdresses and ornate gowns, putting forth the versatility of the trend.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Flutter Flatter
Fluted Flounce
Prada
A
Emilio Pucci
Prabal Gurung
Bottega Veneta
Celine
Chadwick Bell
sloping extension of the bodice, the drop sleeve, especially the one-piece drop shoulder and the kimono sleeve were in obvious repetition. Variations in lengths were seen, from the elbow to two inches above and below. Stiff fabrics like leather and canvas were incorporated for standing exaggerated sleeves for deconstruction themes; likewise, fluid fabrics like net and georgette were adapted for a slouchy hanging edition. The sleeve could be transformed into a flutter drop or attached separately just as easily, creating added interest with the use of sheer textiles.
Fashion Forward Trends
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
Peter Som
A
Balmain
David Koma
Costello Tagliapietra
Jonathan Saunders
Jean-Pierre Braganza
1970’s symbol of women’s liberation, wrap skirts have been a comfortable go-to option for women. At the spring/summer runways, designers reintroduced the comfort driven silhouette with a fierceness, credited to the inclusion of a slit, au milieu de the skirt. Thigh high or mid thigh, the overlapping slit, usually sliced in the centre for ease of walking, has sharply shifted sideways for this season. From leather to cotton to silk, the trend has been rendered in all fabric qualities, with some designers covering their slit wraps in myriad prints. As houndstooth, bird print, splatter and neon did the rounds, clashing prints on the reverse side of the skirts as they flung open further diversified the trend.
Versace
Pale Pastels
Wrapped In A Slit
J.W. Anderson
T
Prabal
Zac Posen
Burberry
Ralph Rucci
he designers, in their heightened whimsical senses, ditched the bright spring colours for a host of sombre pastels. Variations of the colour story strengthened the versatility of the palette, which deepened or lightened to fit thematic sensibilities. Oily pastels-greasy red and blues- depicted a folksy tale; icy pastel-frozen mints and pale pinks coloured a futuristic minimalism, whereas powdery pastels− dusty rose and lavender− mirrored a refined sense of femininity.
Fashion Forward Trends
Dolce & Gabbana
C
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway details | FFT magazine
Sister by Sibling
Monique Lhuillier
Burberry
Celine
Christophe Lemaire
Marni
Josie Natori
Jason Wu
Dries Van Noten
Christopher Kane
Osman
Marni
outuriers for spring 2014 must have pranced around lush gardens for organic inspirations, considering the surge of exotic flora in their collections. Silk appliquÊ work covered sheer and silk dresses in chaotic branches of leaves and flowers and in a similar vein, clusters of flowers adorned the bustier of classy evening gowns. Some embellishments, illustrating the biological anatomy of flowers through iridescent trims dug even deeper into the trend and some experimented with sequins and stone, giving the trend an almost ethereal dimension. The artworks, highly elaborate, tapped on lesser known flowers – almond, oriental blooms, Asian palash – for reference, while creatively challenging the confines of imitation art.
3D Embellished
I
Marquies Almeida
n a true couture style, fabric has come into play with designers twisting, folding and pleating it for a dramatic look. The cutesy bow has been worked in distinctive styles with variations spread across a range of silhouettes. Knotted at the waist or at the hip, the bow extended to Grecian drapes on either side of a fitted skirt or ended in a flounce along the length of a suede skirt. Exaggerated bows adorned necklines and waists on shirts, or were tied above the bust for a theatrical vibe together with a minimal adaptation, where deconstructed bow was bound by a contrast colour fabric on a wrap-around top. Charting a soft femininity, knotted tube tops with draped bodices drew attention to the softer side of the trend.
Take A Bow
Fashion Forward Trends
spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway details | FFT magazine
Aexander Wang
Matthew Williamson
E
Altuzarra
DKNY
Helmut lang
Rag & Bone
Isabel Marant
asily overlooked, the waist has brought on itself a fair amount of sartorial influence. The construction, veering from a conventional waistband to unkempt fabric folds, has struck back with a look which is all the more effortless. As overturned waist finds a distinct spot with designers, leather pants, wrap skirts and boyish pants boast of slouchy flaps, either an inch below the waist or cut diagonally to Fall at the hip. Waist flaps on formal trousers were slightly folded, sewn on top of a waistband to give an optical dimension and, in a classic workwear style, drawstring waists fell over slit skirts and track pants, offering a wearable take on the trend.
Turning It Over
Altuzarra
Derek Lam
Opening Ceremony
Yigal AzrouĂŤl
Sachin+Babi
Proenza Schouler
D
esigners, preferring classics for spring inspirations, have chanced upon one of the most basic design details: crisscross. As ensembles zoom on pattern play, fabrics have been crossed on necklines, bodices and backs for an added dimension. Wrapped around the neck in a classic crossover style, the style showed on zipped rompers, fitted sheaths and bomber jackets; the detail shifted to the shoulders in crop tops and shift dresses, with the cross pattern packed tightly around the bust for an intense fit. Backs were tangled similarly on straps of gym bustier, and the detail was drawn around the waist on midi length dresses stretching to a snug fit on body cons and held delicately around the waist on cinched dresses.
Crossed Out