spring/summer 2014 | womenswear | runway trends | FFT magazine
The recurring bombers and sweatpants are definitive of fashion capitals around the world being at the helm of a massive sportswear season; however, their treatment of the subject has a clear distinction owing to their unique cultures. Minimal in character, designers at New York derived inspiration from the 90’s hip-hop days for ensembles, while London filtered the trend on similar lines but with a hint of royal femininity, suggestive of classic British sensibility. Absolutely contrasting were runways of Paris and Milan, where designers traded minimalism for opulence and infused sportswear with a couture-like quality, exploring chaotic prints and surfaces amongst bizarre fabrics.
The Row
Helmut Lang
However, all four fashion weeks revealed a serious inclination for sheer play, toying with ideas of transparency, layering and fabric juxtapositions in wearable fashion. While reviewing the trend, embellished sheers and laser-cut organza at Paris and Milan were easily distinguishable from the much cleaner silhouettes at New York and London, which relied heavily on sportswear for reference. Sassy workwear made more than a fleeting appearance at runways where London perked up classics and New York built uncomplicated silhouettes, leaving it to Paris and Milan to indulge in dramatic ensembles and theatrical appearances, experimenting occasionally with formal wear. Yet all four fashion weeks vied for expressing stronger femininity. New York called out to the urbane woman with easy ensembles and futuristic cuts; London stood for understated glamour consuming laces, sequins and iridescent surfaces; Milan basked in the exuberance of artistic prints and innovative panelling and Paris, fiercest of all, merged craftsmanship with exquisite pattern-making skill. Collectively, midi lengths were favoured, culottes and wide-legged pants appeared repeatedly, boxy tops stretched to wider bodices and longer lengths, sequins and embellishments were splashed generously and pastel palettes had a devoted following.
Damir Doma
Languid Lines
WOMENSWEAR
Fashion Forward Trends
A
Paul Smith
Emporio Armani
Duro Olowu
certain relaxed vibe has taken over the spring of 2014, swapping severe body cons for languid lines. Hence the look, part androgynous and part sporty, feeds on structural ease for silhouettes yet blends exceedingly well with formal daywear separates. Wide legged pants, whether for long palazzos, loose trousers or fuss-free culottes, dictated a fair share of the collections together with tunic and shift dresses, which fell straight on the body. A generous slouch prevailed amid office trousers and blazers which were rounded off by huge overturned cuffs. Continuing on Fall season’s boxy lines, short jackets and tops were sided by overblown sleeves and round shoulders. As designers expanded the regular fit to oversized contours, loose shirtdresses were paired with looser pants and extra large men’s shirts were tucked in pencil skirts.