In School Magazine by FashionJournalism

The Exotic History of Chanel 5

Unconventional Models Comedians and Vitiligo

San Francisco Street Style

IN SCHOOL CONTRIBUTORS Editorial

Editor in Chief

Christina Aanestad

Creative Director Lianne Texeria Photograhy Elizabeth Collie Photography Lianne Texeria

Welcome to In-School Magazine, a project by students at the Academy of Art Univeristy Introduction to Fashion Journalism class --a crash course in the art of journalism, fashion, and media. Many of our contributing writers are first year students just getting thier feet wet in the fashion journalism world and several In-School Magazine articles are the first for these young, aspiring writers. Here you will read a myriad of topics as it relates to fashion: a gourd Haitians use as a bag, a San Francisco based line that uses unconventional models--female comedians, and an Oakland streetwear line that gives back to the community. Some of the contributors aren’t fashion journalism majors, but have other creative talents included in In-School like styling photography. So come on in, take a peek and enjoy the ride, or should we say, read...? Christina Aanestad

Contributing Writers Berhann Beyene is a fashion journalism major at the Academy of Art Univer-

sity, where she runs for Art U track team. She was born to immigrant parents from Ethiopia and raised by a single mother with four other siblings. Despite the struggles that came with that lifestyle, her mother raised her children to become educated and successful in whatever they do. Berhann’s passion is to own her own magazine like Vogue or Elle. She loves the fast paced lifestyle of the fashion industry and hopes to play a huge role in it.

Elizabeth Collie is a fashion journalism major at the Academy of Art University, originally from the Caribbean Islands. She is enthusiastic about fashion reporting and sees her following the work of fashionistas and celebrity interviewers like Joan Rivers.

Daphne Corrales is a fashion journalism major at the Academy of Art Univer-

sity. Corrales was born and raised in Hawaii on the island on Oahu. She began writing in grade school for broadcast journalism and the creative writing that took place under her pillow. When she is not writing or attending school, she loves spending time shopping and exploring the city looking for a new stories to uncover. Her blog is daphnejayne.blogspot.com.

Celeste Van Baker is a student at the Academy of Art University majoring in

Fashion Journalism. She is a Capricorn and enjoys meeting new people, expanding her knowledge and mastering her craft. Some of her hobbies would include reading at bookstores, traveling to new places, singing at karaoke joints, and creating DIY projects. Her ultimate goal is to write a book.

Kaisha Jean-Louis Kaisha Jean-Louis is working towards her BFA in fashion

merchandising at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. Her free spirited, adventurous lifestyle is portrayed throughout her work, consistently bringing a new, innovative look to women’s fashion. She specializes in styling photo shoots and fashion shows, creating a strong mood and story for any project. She was born in Canada, raised in New York and is a twin. Aside from attending classes and working, Kaisha enjoys reading her favorite Vogue Magazines, learning new trends on Style.com, and going out with her friends.

Mia Miller studies fashion journalism at Academy of Art University in San

Francisco. Although diagnosed with Lupus Nephritis at the young age of 13, she doesn’t let it stop her from achieving her goals and what she feels is important. In her spare time, Mia enjoys reading, watching reality shows, and spending time outside.

Comfort Prescott received her Bachelors Degree from the Academy of Art University

were she studied fashion merchandising. While studying at the Academy she began writing for In School Magazine. Never being provocative, but also provoking conversation, she strives to make readers think about things that exist in their subconscious minds.

Tashell Smith is a fashion journalism major at Academy of Art University in San Francisco and born and raised in Sacramento, California. Her interests include music, clothes, and being a hippy. Her style can be described as laid back and casual but cute as well, and she love fall colors and sparkles. For Smith’s career one day she hopes to write for newspapers and magazines, if not merchandising fashion.

Lainne Texeira is In School Magazine’s creative director. Born in India, raised in Dubai.

Actor and fashion writer. Obsessed with fashion films and pop culture. While studying filmmaking at the bustling city of Bombay, she decided to make her hobby of fashion blogging into a professional one. Films and story telling is her first love. Her website is http://www. mermaidswearmascara.com.

Brit Tran is a fashion journalism major at the Academy of Art University. This is her first contribution to In-School Magazine.

Isabella Urbina is a fashion journalism student at the the Academy of Art University in

San Francisco, Ca. Originally from the San Francisco Bay Area, she moved to Miami, Florida in 2004 and then returned to pursue her passion in fashion journalism at the academy. Urbina has a love for writing and a deeper love for fashion. She believes that fashion should be thought of as a wearable, form of expression.

Melinda Wang is a fashion student at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco,

where she studies fashion styling. She fell in love with fashion when she was a young child, flipping through pages in the magazines that her mom had brought home for her. Inspired every day by her surroundings, she is working her way towards a BFA in fashion styling to achieve her dreams. Her website is www.melinda-wang.com.

Lauria Weber is an exchange student from Paris, France. She is studying fashion for

one year at the Academy of Art in San Francisco as part of an exchange program between her school, Studio Bercot and the Academy. Originally from Biarritz—the city of rain and surf—in the south-west, next to Spain, Weber fell in love with fashion at a young age, on her grandma’s knees. Her blog is lamarquise.us.

Thomas Lamont Wilkes is from Philadelphia, PA. Having been exposed to art at an ear-

ly age, Wilkes’ passion for fashion became second nature, where he found he could express himself as a different “character”through style. He is currently studying fashion at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco

Styling and Photos by Elizabeth Collie

MIAMI

STREET

Miami, Florida may not be the first city a person looks to for the latest street wear inspiration, as California an lowing. Brands such as Winter Sunday and Militia West, specifically, are growing a larger fan base by the day.

WEAR

STYLE

By Isabella Urbina

nd New York lead the scene. But, for the last four years, Miami-based brands have been attracting a major folIn-School Magazine highlights these two brands that capture the essence of Miami street wear and lifestyle.

In-School Styling By Lianne Texeira

Smart Models Smart Models ! !

! !

Brit Tran!

a growing company in San Francisco, Betabrand, a Betabrand, growing company based in San based Francisco, featuredincomedians their 2014 Fall featured comedians their 2014 in Fall collection. Fa-collection. Famous for featuring women as Spring models (last Spring mous for featuring smart womensmart as models (last featuring doctoral students), this year’s “Fall featuring PhD doctoralPhD students), this year’s “Fall Comedyfeatures Collection” features femaleand comedians and Comedy Collection” female comedians comedy television shows like New Girl, writers from writers comedyfrom television shows like New Girl, HowMother, I Met Your Mother,Project The Mindy Project and The How I Met Your The Mindy and The Ofﬁce. ! Ofﬁce. !

usewe real people know, know “We use real “We people know, or we know of,” or said Liz of,” said Liz Rossof, content forThe Betabrand. The comedian Rossof, content producer for producer Betabrand. comedian friends ofsaid.! friends, she said.! models weremodels friends were of friends, she ! ! The Betabrandalso collections also stand of out because of the The Betabrand collections stand out because the company's crowd-funding process. Aspiring designers company's crowd-funding process. Aspiring designers pitch their garment ideas to the company (Photo)from: BETABRAND.C pitch their garment ideas to the company publicly on publicly on (Photo from: BETABRAND.COM the “Think its website betabrand.com.! the “Think Tank” sectionTank” of its section websiteofbetabrand.com.! The designs the most votes The designs with the mostwith votes and successful funding it to the selling ﬂoor and successful funding make it to themake selling ﬂoor as product. a Betabrand as a Betabrand ! product. !

Betabrand was originally Betabrand was originally started as ! started as ! “Cordarounds” and was founded “Cordarounds” and was founded by Chris ! by Chris ! Lindland, up withdesign the unique design Lindland, who came upwho withcame the unique for the Cordarounds 2004. for the Cordarounds pants in 2004.pants Theyinare cor-They are corduroy pants where lines run horizontally duroy pants where the lines run the horizontally around theofleg the vertical direction. around the leg instead theinstead verticalofdirection. Betabrand forwent 5 years and in went public in Betabrand existed for 5 existed years and public 2013. StillBetabrand very small, Betabrand employs about 2013. Still very small, employs about 50 continues people, and growin-off of their in50 people, and to continues grow off oftotheir novative edgyand marketing, novative design, edgydesign, marketing, unique and unique crowdsourcing as a merchandising ! crowdsourcing strategy as a strategy merchandising ! development.! development.! Fall Comedy ad campaign) (Betabrand 2014 Fall (Betabrand Comedy ad2014 campaign)

Fall Comedy ad campaign) (Betabrand 2014 Fall (Betabrand Comedy ad2014 campaign)

(The Solitaire, designed and modeled by Comedian Margaret Cho)

Turning the Town Upside Down A fashion line is redefining the image of a city plagued with violence By Berhann Beyene

Oaklandish, a clothing

Tsay says and design company “Oaklandish is is working to build committed to community and revamp encouraging the the image of a city continuation plagued with violence of Oakland's and crime in the San "trailblazers' Francisco Bay Area. legacy," where Despite the negativity trends are created the city of Oakland and boundaries receives for it's high are redefined. crime rate, companies Oaklandish started like Oaklandish have selling t-shirts at the a different vision. Grand Lake Farmer's Identified by the iconic Market and now has tree and roots logo, three retail locations, Oaklandish is setting 1444 Broadway forward thinking trends Street, 3rd Street, and and making a fashion Fruitvale Avenue. Oaklandish store front. Oakland, Ca. Photo by Berhann Beyene. statement at the same time with hoodies, “So wear it well… screening press shirts, and beanies. when you rock these roots, you're supporting and representing After producing public art for 15 years, Angela Tsay and Jeff Oakland!”, said store manager Joseph Thomas. They hope the Hull introduced Oaklandish as an apparel brand with a social gear helps to spark some dialogue about East Bay life. Tsay justice mission. “We realized there was a real hunger for people notes “You have a certain responsibility when the name of your to find a way to express their Oakland pride,” says Tsay. city is in the name of your company.” A portion of proceeds from Oaklandish gear goes to support local organizations working to strengthen the community. For that reason, Oaklandish is constantly looking for ways to add volume to uplifting voices and organizations throughout the city while promoting the fashion line's brand. The annual Oaklandish Innovators Awards is the company's way of recognizing and supporting local organizations working to improve the lives of Oakland residents. In addition to financial support, Oaklandish Innovator Award winners receive support with design, events, and social media,anything to get the word out about the winners’ important, trailblazing endeavors in Oakland. Featured artist, Brett Cook has some advice for the people of Oakland: “You too are an unsung hero. Just keep doing good work and Oakland will be better for everyone.” Oaklandish logo

It's local businesses like Oaklandish that give the community a positive identity and sense of pride. Oaklandish successfully demonstrates how clothing is a universal language and plays a central role in the world. Who knew that a simple T-shirt or hoodie could take a city from darkness to light? America, don’t sleep on Oakland just yet.

Oaklandish t-shirts on display. Photo by Berhann Beyene.

IN-SCHOOL

For The First Time By Lianne Texeira

5 Legendary couturier Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel revolutionized the fashion and perfume industry by introducing a unique perfume in 1921, for the first time. N°5 became an iconic image that evoked glamor beauty and classic femininity. But where did a young ‘Coco’ Chanel attain inspiration for the multi-million dollar potion that made her a legendary tastemaker. How did she traverse the boundaries between lady and mistress? It all began with a tragedy that was born out of emptiness and a void, bound to her karma, reminiscence of a love that was dangerously interrupted but that she would cherish her entire life.! In 1909, 26 year old Chanel came to Paris as sandalwood, orange blossom, may rose and the mistress of the textile baron Etienne Balsan who Brazilian tonca beans. It went against the fashionable gifted her salons to use as millinery shops that fragrances of the time as respectable women favored entertained elite french mistresses. That same year, the pure essence of a single flower. Amorous and she met Balsan’s friend English polo player and risqué perfumes heavy with jasmine were associated socialite Arthur Capel — thus commencing a with prostitutes. Chanel unhesitatingly planned to passionate affair. It is believed that the idea for a launch the scent that would epitomize the perfume came after his death in December 22, 1919 unapologetic modern woman liberating the spirit of when he was killed in a car accident en route to a the1920s. ! Christmas rendezvous with Beaux presented Chanel with 10 samples Chanel. Years after the success of numbered 1 to 5 and 20 to 24. She “A women’s eventually chose number 5. It is rumoured her independent boutiques, she desired to create a scent that could that the concoction was the inadvertent perfume with a define the new, modern woman she result of a laboratory mishap where one of symbolized. But Chanel’s past was women’s scent” Beaux’s assistants added an extra dose of traumatic and unsettling, an unknown aldehyde. Tilar Mazzeo, the something that manifested into her author of “The Secret of Chanel N°5” in trademark fragrance.! his book wrote about why scent number 5 The smell of soap from her childhood with the psychologically grabbed Chanel. “The thing with nuns was embedded in her memory. She was aldehydes is that one of them smells of soap. So she meticulously clean and when she socialized could balance in her own mind, a childhood in a amongst mistresses she complained about their convent and then this luxurious life as a mistress.” musky body odor. When she decided to introduce Ironically, Beaux used to make and sell soap with his an exclusive perfume to her wealthy clients, it was father as a child. From her earliest days in her essential it imbued a freshness. She struggled to find convent orphanage, Aubazine, the number 5 had a perfumer who could produce such a majestic potent associations. For Chanel, the number 5 was potion. At this time, chemists already isolated especially esteemed as signifying the pure compounds known as Aldehydes that could embodiment of a thing, its spirit, its mystic meaning. artificially create citrus scents. But they were The paths that led Chanel to the cathedral for daily hesitant about experimentation as the synthetic prayer were laid out in circular patterns repeating the components were extraordinarily powerful.! number 5. She considered the number to be her good During the late summer of 1920, Chanel went luck charm.! on a holiday on the Côte D’Azur with her lover the Chanel’s affair with ‘Boy’ Capel majorly Grand Duke Dimitri Pavlovich. She was introduced influenced her design aesthetics. He financed her first to a perfumer called Ernest Beaux who worked for shops and his own clothing style of blazers and the Russian royal family and lived close by in trousers, shaped Chanel’s vision. The bottle design Grasse, the centre of the perfume industry. Unlike for N°5 had 2 likely origins, both distinct to the other perfumers, Beaux was a risk taker and took up sophisticated personal taste of Capel. Chanel either Chanel’s challenge. Coco Chanel once said, “A constructed the oblique, chamfered lines of the woman should wear perfume wherever she would charvet toiletry bottles he carried in his leather case like to be kissed”. She encouraged Beaux to explore or the polished whiskey decanter Capel owned that with jasmine, the rarest of scent essences. Chanel adored and wished to reproduce it in He created fragrances of abstract floral ‘exquisite, expensive, delicate glass’. richness that had layers of complexity with

For Chanel, the number 5 was especially esteemed as signifying the For Chanel, the pure embodiment of a number 5 was especially thing, its spirit, its mystic esteemed as signifying the meaning. pure embodiment of a thing, its spirit, its mystic meaning.

In the late 1940s advertisements and 2% The final Chanel N°5 scent imbued with jasmine, worldwide sales of Parfum Chanel made her one of rose and vanilla was an instant success partly due to the richest women in the world. The Chanel video Coco’s ingenious marketing ideas. According to author series informs viewers that in the 1950s the glamour Tilar Mazzeo, Chanel said she invited Beaux and of Chanel N°5 was reignited by the celebrity of friends to an upmarket restaurant on the riviera and In the late 1940s advertisements andfor 2%her film ‘Lets Thepurposely final Chanel N°5 scent imbued around with jasmine, Marilyn Monroe. While shooting sprayed the perfume the table. Each worldwide sales of Parfum Chanel made her one of to Marie rose and vanilla instant partly due to and where Make Love’ Monroe seductively confessed womanwas thatan passed bysuccess inquired about what the richestClaire’s womeneditor in theinworld. The Chanel videothat she Coco’s ingenious marketing According to obsession author with chief Georges Belmont the fragrance came ideas. from. Her mystical series informs viewers that inofthe 1950sN°5 the glamour Tilar Mazzeo, Chanel five saidagain she invited only wears 5 drops Chanel to bed. The the number provedBeaux to be and her lucky charm of Chanelunsolicited N°5 was reignited by the celebrity of friends toand an upmarket restaurant on the riviera and affirmation provided invaluable it was a validation of the revolution N°5 will Marilyn Monroe. While for her ad filmseries ‘Lets‘Revolvers purposelybring. sprayed perfume the table. Each publicity. Next,shooting Andy Warhol’s Thatthe was the firstaround time people experienced the Make Love’ Monroe displayed seductivelyanconfessed Mariepalette of woman that passed by inquired about stopped what and where Collection’ invariantto colour genius of N°5 and it literally them in theirClaire’s editor in chief Georges the fragrance came from. Her mystical obsession with a breath the iconic bottle whichBelmont has onlythat 190she editions in the tracks. That moment consumers were taking only wears 5 drops of Chanel N°5 to bed. The the number fivescent, againitproved be her luckyincharm world. The sleek, minimalistic design became a of the was antointervention the history ofunsolicited affirmation provided invaluable and it wasperfume. a validation of the revolution symbolic representation in fashion when Karl “A women’s perfume N°5 withwill a women’s scent” publicity. Next, Andy Warhol’s ad series ‘Revolvers bring. That was the first people experienced Lagerfeld recreated the N°5 bottle bag clutch for the said Chanel, in time the video series launchedthe by Karl Collection’ displayed an invariant colour palette genius of Lagerfeld.! N°5 and it literally stopped them in their Chanel Cruise 2013 collection. It was anof incredible the iconic bottle which has only 190 editions in the tracks. That moment consumers were taking breath success with middle class consumers saving $1,500 In 1924, she licensed her namea to the Wertheimer world. The minimalistic became of the scent, it was an intervention in the history of to sleek, purchase the clutchdesign after they saw afashion brothers who formed Parfums Chanel. She regretted symbolic bloggers representation in fashion when Karl perfume. the “A decision women’slater perfume with a women’s was scent” Miraduma and Chiara Ferragni sport them saying, “Wertheimer the bandit Lagerfeldoff recreated the N°5 bottle bagofclutch thewidely said Chanel, in the video series launched by Karl the runway. The essence N°5 isfor now who screwed me.” For the next 20 years she battled for Chanel Cruise 2013tocollection. It was an Lagerfeld.! available every consumer as incredible a cream, hair mist, the control of Parfums Chanel. World War II brought success with middle class consumers saving $1,500 In 1924, licensed name to the Wertheimer lotion, foaming bath and powder. Its mysterious Nazi she seizure of allher jewish property and Chanel used to purchase the clutch after they saw fashion brothers who formed Parfumsto Chanel. She regretted potion is as haunting today, making it the most this as an advantage petition German officials tobloggers Miraduma and Chiara sportallthem the decision later her saying, was theBut bandit famous perfume in theFerragni world. After it was legalize right“Wertheimer to sole ownership. post the defeat off the runway. The essence of N°5 is now widely who screwed me.” For the next 20 years shewith battled to replace the absence of Chanel’s undying of Nazism, Chanel’s collaboration the for enemyavailable created to every consumer as a cream, mist, history, 5 the control of Parfums Chanel. World II the brought love, defying the perfume rules.hair Making during wartime menaced herWar with exposure oflotion, her foaming bath and powder. Its mysterious Nazi seizure of all jewish property Chanel drops at a time. treasonous activities. In anand attempt at used damage control, potion is as haunting today, making it the most this as anshe advantage petition to Cambon placed atosign in theGerman windowofficials of her Rue famous perfume in the world. After all it was legalize her right toannouncing sole ownership. But post defeat boutique, the bottles of the Chanel No. 5 were to replace the absence of Chanel’s undying of Nazism, Chanel’s collaboration withGIs thewaited enemyin queuescreated free to all American GIs. The to love, defying the perfume rules. Making history, 5 during wartime menaced her with the exposure of her buy N°5, a souvenir the soldier redeemed for his wife drops at a time. treasonous activities. In an attempt at damage control, back home. From US to Japan, fame spread like she placed a sign in theMademoiselle window of her Rue Cambon wildfire and Chanel metamorphosed boutique,into announcing the bottles of Chanel No. 5 were an international icon.! free to all American GIs. The GIs waited in queues to buy N°5, a souvenir the soldier redeemed for his wife back home. From US to Japan, fame spread like wildfire and Mademoiselle Chanel metamorphosed into an international icon.!

Beauty Is Skin Deep

By Mia Miller

(Photo from Chantelle Brown-Young’s Instagram)

Many young girls want to become a model at some point in their life, but for a lot of them it will not happen because they do not have the look. Models are known for having a look that is categorized as perfection. Their hair has to appear a certain way, their skin has to be blemish free, their body proportions must be a certain size, the minimum height requirement is 5’7; etc. But in some rare cases, a unique looking woman will become a model. And in this case, it happened for Chantelle Brown-Young. Brown-Young developed a rare skin disorder called vitiligo at the age of four. Vitiligo creates patchy depigmentation on the skin. While in grade school, she was teased a lot. The students used to call her “cow” and “zebra”. Some of the parents didn’t want their children hanging around her because they thought her condition was contagious. She got so tired of being bullied that she became the bully later in middle school. The bullying became so bad that she eventually dropped out of high school her junior year and has even debated suicide a few times. . Later in life, she decided she wasn’t going to give up on herself. “When I was young, I was picked on for something that today I feel is amazing” she stated in an interview. At 16 years old, she

went out to become a model. She messaged Shannon Boodram, a photographer, on Facebook and had her first photo shoot with her. She continued to go to casting calls, her first one being with Fashion Art Toronto. She got the job and that show helped her launch more runway bookings. Brown-Young’s interesting looks got her a major opportunity in the modeling world; she became a contestant on America’s Next Top Model (ANTM) season 21. Tyra Banks herself sought out Young from her Instagram. Being on the show has helped her to get viewers to know and understand vitiligo. “The fact the she wanted me so badly for her show will stick with me for the rest of my life,” Brown-Young stated.

Today Brown-Young is the face of the Spanish label Desigual; she has done plenty of photo shoots, and she has even walked in London’s Fashion Week. She is a spokesperson for the vitiligo community. There’s no telling where her career will take her because every day there’s new opportunities for her. She is a role model to anyone who needs a confidence booster. You can check out what she is up to from her Insta(Photo from Chantelle Brown-Young’s Instagram) gram page WinniwHarlow.

Styling by Lianne Texeira

LUANNA PEREZ

Inspiring Street Style

treet style fashion blogger, Luanna Perez-Garreaud is a Peruvian gal rocking the grunge and gothic style, with over a million followers on Instagram. Perez has once said before that she was always looking at blogs of other girls, but never thought of making one. Now on her spare time aside from school, she blogs about her own everyday style to people who share or admire the same style as her. Perez is currently enrolled at the Fashion Institute of Technology for fashion merchandising in New York. Before studying at FIT, Perez studied fashion in Peru, but the school did not offer the degree she wanted, so she moved to New York to achieve her goals and dreams. Although Perez loves Peru, she wanted to pursue fashion merchandising as a career and unfortunately, they did not have that major... So Perez decided to move to New York, where the city never sleeps. Preceding to becoming a street style blogger, Perez found an every day clothing inspiration site called, Lookbook. She began to share her daily outfit ideas to people and loved what other Lookmembers posted; later, it gradually became one of her hobbies. When Perez was introduced to Lookbook by a blogger, she loved it so much she wanted to post right away. Later,

By MELINDA WANG

Peruvian gal rocking the grunge & gothic style.

LUANNA PEREZ INSPIRING STREET STYLE

Perez realized that she wanted to share more of her outfits, so she created a blog, Le-Happy, having pictures of fully detailed styled outfits and information written below it. She wanted to show more people pictures of her outfits to get feedback and interact with other bloggers as well In order to become who we are right, we all have to grab inspiration from someone or somewhere. Her surroundings, old movies, books, music, the Internet, and the grunge style from the 90â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspire Perez. When she wakes up in the morning, her routine is to make herself a cup of coffee and surf the web for morning inspirations before dressing herself up. Perez has said that she wanted to be different every time she dresses up, but still remain the same or similar style. She absorbs a lot of her inspiration everywhere, but always keeping her outfits true to herself. A signature look of Perez is her leather moto jacket, creepers, acid washed jeans, and her black beanie... you will never see her on the streets of New York City without them on. On the side from every day street style blogging, Perez is also currently a contributor to Teen Vogue, the sister of Vogue magazine for younger teens to read. One day, Perez was contacted by the company to share her regular posts on Teen Vogue website to inspire other teens with her style.

From Med Student to Fashionista An Interview with Designer Carla Sta Cruz By Celeste Van Baker

San Francisco, CA - While interning at fashion’s most powerful media company, Vogue, Carla Sta. Cruz left with a no-nonsense approach to the business of fashion. Sta. Cruz studied design at Parsons, The New School for Design in New York, where her love affair with design began in a costume history class. During her final year at Parsons, a creative director at the Conde Naste Group; the publishing group of luxury magazines like GQ, Vanity Fair, and Vogue, took notice of her portfolio. Sta. Cruz had to learn to overcome criticism and pre conceived notions in the work environment, a harrowing yet rewarding experience, before launching her first eponymous bag collection. A nerd for fashion, yet terribly afraid criticism, she also interned with notable designers, such as Vera Wang, Marchesa and Hugo Boss. According to her, it was a long journey, but credits all that hard work with gaining a new understanding of the importance of quality when it comes to designing fashion.

Carla Sta Cruz designed skirt. Photo from Facebook

Sta. Cruz’s conceptualized her first collection during the winter in New York, when she was terribly homesick and designed a line that reminded her of her hometown in the Philippines. Bamboo leaves and rural thatched roofs inspired the collection. From then on, she designed a second and third collection inspired by watching Rihanna’s video with Slash, reading “The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo,” by Stieg Larsson and fantasy drama television series, Game of Thrones. Sta. Cruz is currently venturing into and experi- menting with new designs for the bridal wear industry.

Sta. Cruz talks about her journey in making her mark in fashion and the inspiration behind her work. She talks in depth about her overall sense of purpose of combining fashion with culture, and the voyage to greatness. Her website is: www. CarlaStacruz.com. CB: Let’s start at the beginning. What were you doing before you go into Design ? CS: “I was miserable in med school. I came from a family of doctors and for a time I thought I should become one too.” CB: What initially attracted you to Parson’s School of Design and what did you take away from the experience ? CS: “What attracted me to Parsons was the city of New York and “Project Runway”. After Parsons, I gained a profound respect for the people in the industry and I finally understood why Miranda Priestly from the “Devil Wears Prada” was so pissed when Anne Hatha- way made fun of her inability to decide which cerulean belt to use in the photo-shoot. Those pieces took a year to create from conceptualization to production to the retail floor. People from designer, patternmaker, tech artist, even the mail man who brought it to your door worked to make every garment and accessory we’re wearing right now. Of course, aside from developing good work ethic and relentless discipline at work, I also had fun. It was the best years of my life.” CB: How did you get involved in Design ? And why did you choose to pursue it in NY ? CS: “ It’s New York - a fashion capital, and its also the greatest city in the world. And the support I get from other creative artists and the government is priceless.” CB: What are some challenges you face as a designer ? CS: “Loads really. But my current problem is offshore production, I’m currently employing a factory to make garments and and bags. I deal with ridiculous things like corruption in the customs, or the local governments. It’s disturbing because it drives up the cost of production and it affects the capability of your manu- facturing arm to create one of a kind products.” CB: What advice would you give someone who is 20 years old and aiming to build a career in the fashion world? CS: “Intern, Intern, Intern! “ CB: Do you still make your own sets ? CS: “Yes, but now I have associate designers who can help me with bridal designs and I have a production manager as well.” CB: How did your brand come about ? CS: “I never really wanted to start a brand before. I just wanted to do this on the side or do it as a favor for friends or for fun, but the client base just kept increasing so I followed through.”

2014 Photo fashion show, Union Square, San Francisco. Photo by Celeste Baker taken at the fashion show I interened at over the summer at UnionVan Sqaure

CB: What other art work do you do ? CS: “Surprisingly, culinary arts. I’m especially amused by how pastry chefs shape chocolate, but I do have this through.” odd childhood fantasy of having my own Willy Wonka’s factory in my backyard. “

CB: What other art work do you do ? CS: “Surprisingly, culinary arts. I'm especially amused CB: Have you ever though of venturing into Culi- nary business for fun ? by howIts pastry chefs shape chocolate, but I do have CS: “I really do want to have a pastry shop with a hidden sex dungeon with high class lingerie. Hahaha. this odd childhood fantasy of having my own Willy crazy, but if funds permit, why not.” Wonka's factory in my backyard. “ CB: Where do you see your brand going? CB: Have you ever though of venturing into CuliCS: “Global...if not, I’m just happy with a small atelier. All that truly matters to me is that my brand will create for fun ? nary business exceptional products. Something that people will love. I like the feeling of looking at my garments and my CS: “I really do want to have a pastry shop with a heart just fills up with pride.” hidden sex dungeon with high class lingerie. Hahaha. Its crazy, but if funds permit, why not.” CB: Looking into the future, where do you see yourself in five years time ? What are your long term goals? CB: Where CS: “Long term, still in New York, but with offices and ateliers in fashion capitals, or married to Gerard Butlerdo – you see your brand going? CS: “Global...if not, I'm just happy with a small atelier. “circa 300” the movie.” All that truly matters to me is that my brand will create exceptional products. Something that people Carla Sta Cruz handbag. will love. I like the feeling of looking at my garments and my heart just fills up with pride.” CB: Looking into the future, where do you see

tion factu ucts. CB: W who caree CS: “ CB: D CS: “ who have CB: H CS: “ befo do it clien

Fading Individualism

By Comfort Prescott

n the era of social media, the impact of outside influences can plague an individual’s creativity, whether in art or fashion. Accessibility is at an all time high, largely because most people are connected to a social media brand in some way, whether its Google Plus, Twitter, LinkedIn, or Instagram. Through these social media platforms, people are able quickly trade information, share inspiration, and feel a part of the fashion world more than ever before. However the question is: Does too much accessibility make it hard to have originality? Instagram is a great tool for self and lifestyle branding, but is there a big difference in a person’s branding style and that of their followers? Are style bloggers really original? In an interview with rapper Lil Wayne after his 2010 incarceration he was asked what artist he listened to while imprisoned. He said he only listened to his own music because he didn’t want any influences to change his style. What people see and hear can affect their creative mind. Instagram is a great platform for people to share and become inspired but that sharing has caused a problem. As individuals acquire more followers and their images are circulated around the web, an original idea becomes one amongst many and not so original leading to the death of individualism. The ability to share at great speeds is a wonderful thing but it stifles the ability to be creative and different. An online article from The Spectator UK discusses the roll individualism plays in the grooming of Generation Y and those who came before it. It talks about the forced creativity due to the lack of the mass share and how that helped build a stronger class of creative people. People learned to entertain themselves but were still able to develop the necessary social skills to function in society. In 2011 Teen Vogue launched its first ever influential blogger of the year award; further stamping the style bloggers place as the new trend forecasters. Many people have a list of favorite blogs that they followed and looked to for fashion style and inspiration. Style blogger where able to take $3000 runway looks and create a similar look for a fraction of the price. This channel of targeting everyday consumers may have been what inspired, Instagram, Pinest, Polyvor and more.

Instagram started in 2010 and rapidly grew to 100 million users by April 2012, according to Forbes online. It allowed bloggers to gain a larger following and reach more markets. The photo-sharing app also allows readers to see whom their favorite bloggers are following. In an interview with social and fashion guru Antwain Mitchell, owner of AnotherFashionBook.com, when ask about the distinguished individual style on social media he replied, “There is none! Once you post a picture it can be shared by whom ever and an idea that once felt so original is over used and abused. I look at Kim [Kardashian’s] style-its now the hottest look and most copied outfit/style idea around…the only way to remain an individual in this social media age is to share and not look.” It’s easy to get lost in social media but it’s even easier to fall victim to its lack of individualism. If there were less social media would the world be more creative? Would it uncover fashion trends exclusive to the 21st century? That question may never be answered. Many trend forecasters predict a future where people step away from social media and disconnect from the Internet world. Maybe then we will see the return of the individual.

San Francisco Photographs by Academy of Art Fashion Journalism Students

Street Style

Parisian revival

By Lauria Weber The codes of her brand are the seams inside out, no hem, striped sweaters, perfumery for example. Rykiel is now seeking to expand the brand internationally. Undeniably, the house realized 50 % of Sonia Rykiel’s rhinestones and happiness. sales abroad, in 2010. She quickly conquered the heart of the According to an employee of Sonia Rykiel,when the choice french woman but also abroad theof De Libran is good for the brand. “She is a woman who has a great relationship actress Audrey Parisworld, and but she is with the press and a Hepburn lot of contactsvisited in the Fashion also discrete, her style is sophisticated,” the knitwear stylist bought forand herself one of the first said signed assistant who declined to give her name. Rykiel sweaters.

Positively, the Rykiel’s style may have changed. It’s less claimant about woman rights, and fashion predication than May 1968. It’s less In Mayand 2014 Julie LibranGreiss became the time between juvenile jaunty, thatde at Gabrielle director’s 2005 to 2009, when the fashion ending like a party with new fashion Director atshows Soniawere Rykiel. bunch of friends, as shown the documentary “Le Jour D’Avant” (The This french woman yearsshows old of who Day Before) filmed duringof the42 birthday the brand. It was fun, and it was the politic management of the house at this time.

has worked for big companies like Versace, Prada, Louis Vuitton, will now The first fashion show of De Libran in October 2014 presented an active woman, casual but delicate. It’s obvious that De Libran’s designs express herself through Rykiel. try to get a place into the daily closet of the Parisian women, creating a style more accessible and therefore marketable.

Art by Lauria Weber.

Since the latest spring-summer fashion week of Paris, two new the spring-summer fashionSince directors havelatest appeared, Julie De Libran at Sonia Rykiel and Guillaume Henry at Nina Ricci. The parisian style revival has begun fashion week of Paris, two new and seems like a new departure for two old parisian houses.

fashion directors have appeared, Julie Sonia Rykiel, creator of the brand, now 84 years-old, was named in DebyLibran Sonia Rykielasand the 1970’s Women’sat Wear Daily magazine “queen of knitwear in the world.” Her brand created in 1968 during the famous year of Guillaume Henry at Nina Ricci. The french cultural and social protests, initiated the Parisian to a new way to wearparisian fashion “thestyle unfashionable,” she named it. and revivalashas begun seems departure forhem, two The codes of her like brand a arenew the seams inside out, no striped sweaters, rhinestones and happiness. She quickly conquered the heart old parisian houses. of the french woman but also abroad when the actress Audrey Hepburn visited Paris and bought herself one of the first signed Rykiel sweaters.

In May 2014 JulieRykiel, de Librancreator became the Sonia of new the fashion brand,Director now at Sonia Rykiel. This 42 year old french woman, who has worked for estabyears-old, namedPrada, in the lished 84 fashion companieswas like Versace, andseventies Louis Vuitton, will now express herself through Rykiel. The nomination by Women's wear daily magazine was as not chance, but part of Sonia Rykiel’s remodelling: the recovery strategy and "queen of knitwear the world." attempt to accelerate internationalindevelopment of the brand. Indeed since the sales of 80% of the shares to the financial investment comHer brand created in 1968 during the pany Fung Brands, owned by the Fung family of Hong Kong in 2012, famous yeartoof french culturalParisian and social Sonia Rykiel has tried regain its prestigious seductive face.

protests , initiated the Parisian to a new

The change of ownership was a wake up call to the brand: sales had eroded, and its products were Rykiel’s stopped way torange wearof fashion "thereduced. unfashionable"

as she named it.

The was chanceanbut part in the PariBut Denomination Libran is not the onlynot one making appearance sian fashionRykiel's sphere. Inremodelling fact Guillaume Henry of Sonia : thehas been nominated at the head of Nina Ricci , as the new fashion director. His latest experirecovery strategy andofattempt to the fact he is also indicatence as the fashion director Carven attests ing to put again on row the sleeping beauty brand,of Nina Ricci. accelerate international development the Indeed the sales 80% ofHenry became Fewbrand. Parisian girls heardsince about Carven until of Guillaume headshares of the brand in 2009. This outinvestment of breath label, was reborn from its the to the financial ashes in a few collections. Carven, a post-war brand, had four succescompany Fung owned bychanges the since the early sive acquisitions andBrands, three artistic direction 1990’s. family The brandof lost its sales network at the beginning of Fung Hong Kong inworldwide 2012, Sonia 2009. Rykiel tries to regain its prestigious But that hasseductive changed in recent Parisian face.years. As of 2014, the brand is sold in more than 550 shops and will open almost 12 new stores worldwide. Thanks to Guillaume Henry and his popular and accessible style.

The change of ownership was a wake up Today, the shy darling of the press and fashion world has a new miscall the brand : sales and sion:to reviving the ready to weareroded, of Ricci that wasits shadowed by the success of Ricci’s perfume. range of products were reduced. Rykiel's The recent changes in artistic showRykiel that a brand stopped parfumery fordirection exemple. is so well known and old, can stay current with the times. But as director of now seekingat Academy to expand the brand Keanan Duffy points merchandising of Art University out, artistic directors, like fads, comethe and house go. internationaly. Undeniably realised 50 %areofreally Sonia Rykiel'sinsales “The designers not important the eyes of big fashion houses. They are a commodity and as long as they suit the purpose of abroad, in 2010.

the house, they are useful. When they are no longer useful or performing, the house will move on. Cases in point are Tom Ford and Nicolas Ghesquière-both considered irreplaceable at Gucci and BalenAccording to were an employee of Sonia Rykiel, ciaga. However both houses were quick to move away from those the choice of De LibranThere’s is good foranother the new designer designers without hesitation. always ready to take said Duffy. brand. "Sheupisthea challenge,” woman who has a great

relationship withsit the and made a lotwith of tweed for ever, Indeed Chanel cannot on press the camellias Nina Ricci needs be dressed world, with morebut thanshe a perfume, and the contacts in theto Fashion is famous Rive-gauche Rykiel needs to cross the Seine and do a fashion also and her style is worlddiscrete, trip. sophisticated." said the knitwear stylist assistant.

1984 V

By Thomas Wilkes

1984 V

Before there was a 1984V Vintage clothing store, there was Tiara Chameleon Perry. Starting out in Thomas Wilkes Perry from Cleveland, Ohio started as a model. “I was discovered at a mall,” Perry humble beginnings, said, “out shopping with basket ball clothes on.” From then on it was inevitable for Perry to fall in love Before there was a 1984V Vintage clothing store, there was with fashion and the business. Perry studied fashion in Chicago, then made her way to New York City. 1984 VChameleon By Tiara C.Perry. Perry Starting is a fashion which sells vintage quality clothing. 1984 is Perry’s birth Tiara out brand, in humble beginnings, Thomas Wilkes year, and V is for vintage. Perry draws inspiration from ‘80s pop culture, ‘70s esteem Afro punk and the Perry from Cleveland, as fashion a model.style “I was elegance of the swingingOhio ‘60s. started 1984 V’s is savvy, sophisticated, and yet edgy. The collection Before there was a 1984V Vintage clothing store, there is curated and designed to attract a specific type of woman. Each piecewas in the collection is very special to discovered at a mall,” Perry said, “out shopping with basket Perry. 1984 V brings a new vitality to the vintage market with a youthful, unapologetic, and bold appeal. “1984V here sell and promote style said. I had the pleasure of interviewing Tiara Starting out infashion,” humble beginnings, ball clothes on.” From then on it was inevitable forChameleon Perryisto falltoinPerry. love with fashion andnot the business.Perry Perry over a glass of merlot in her apartment in Oakland. As she makes her way onto the sofa, smiling Perry studied fashion in Chicago, then made her to New YorkaCity. 1984 Vstarted By C.aPerry isbegins. a “I was from earway to ear, she takes deep breath andTiara the as interview Perry from Cleveland, Ohio model. fashion brand, which sells vintage quality clothing. 1984 is Perry’s birth year, and V is for vintage. Perry

discovered at a mall,” Perry said, “out shopping with basket

TW: When did you realize that fashion was your calling? draws inspiration from '80s pop culture, '70s esteem Afro punk and the elegance of the swinging '60s. TP: I realized fashion was my calling at 14 years old. I was approaching freshman year in high school and ball clothes on.” From then on it was inevitable for Perry to fall in love with fashion and the business. I transformed a tomboy a stylish young lady. I knew thatThe fashion was ismeant forand medesigned when I was 1984 from V’s fashion style to is savvy, sophisticated, and yet edgy. collection curated to discovered in the mall as a model. I knew it was my calling from then as fashion and art had always spoPerry studied fashion in Chicago, then her way to New City. 19841984 V By Tiaraa C. a specific type of woman. Eachmade piece collection is veryYork special to Perry. V brings newPerry is a ken to meattract prior to that moment. I was looking for in anthe outlet.

vitality which to the vintage market with a youthful, unapologetic, bold appeal. “1984V and is here to sell and fashion brand, sells vintage quality 1984your isand Perry’s birth TW: What are some of the challenges you face clothing. while picking brand off theyear, ground? V is for vintage. Perry

TP: My biggest challenge been structure order help me all the things been promote style nothas fashion,” Perry said.in I had theto pleasure of execute interviewing Perry overI’ve a glass of trying merlot to in

draws inspiration from '80s pop culture, '70s esteem Afro punk and the elegance of the swinging '60s. put forward. her apartment in Oakland. As she makes her way onto the sofa, smiling from ear to ear, she takes a deep

1984 V’s fashion savvy, sophisticated, and yet edgy. The collection is curated and designed to TW: What are you style most is proud of so far in your career? breath and the interview begins.

TP: I am most proud of being the first African American who was taken with a handful of people to Japan attract a specific typestore of woman. Each piece inable the to collection is very special Perry. 1984 V brings a new to be trained as future general manager. I was open stores in Japan, NYCto and San Francisco When did you realize that fashion was your culture calling? and having revenue over $1.5 million sales on as Store Manager while implementing all Japanese vitality to the vintage with a youthful, and bold appeal.my “1984V is here to sell and the first day of each storemarket opening. I hired every one unapologetic, of 800 stores employees including management I realized fashion was my calling at 14 years old. I was approaching freshman year in high school and I team, many of whom I am still in touch with today. I am as proud of the switch from high volume worldtransformed from a tomboy to a stylish young lady. I knew that fashion was meant for me when I was wide known brands tothe A high-end designer Saint Laurent athen with same success. promote style not in fashion,” Perry said. Istore had themy pleasure of interviewing Perry overalways a glass of merlot in discovered mall as a model. I knew it Yves was calling from as the fashion and art had spoken to me prior to that moment. I was looking for an outlet.

TW:apartment What inspires you? her in Oakland. As she makes her way onto the sofa, smiling from ear to ear, she takes a deep What are some challenges you face while picking yourmy brand off theand ground? TP: What inspires me is of thethe idea and company that is in-line with personal moral standards. Only then, can I give my full potential. Most important is the travel, not the destination. Destination is fruition breath and interview Mythe biggest challengebegins. has been structure in order to help me execute all the things I've been trying to put and award. What inspire me ARE fashion and music. forward. What you proudinofthe so far in 10 your career? TW: Where do are you seemost yourself next years? When did you realize that fashion was your calling?

TP: I see myself as a world-known designer and owner of House of Vintage store in Paris. I see myself, as equally important, as a mother of I am most proud of being the first African American who was taken with a handful of people to Japan to two kids with a loving husband by my side and healthy. be trained as future store general manager. I was able to open stores in Japan, NYC and San Francisco as

I realized fashion was my calling at 14 years old. I was approaching freshman year in high school and I Storefrom Manager while implementing allyoung Japaneselady. culture and having over $1.5meant millionfor sales on when the transformed a tomboy to a stylish I knew thatrevenue fashion was me I was TW: When did you to opening. follow your heart? first day of decide each store I hired every one of 800 stores employees including my management discovered in the mall as a model. I knewwith it was myI am calling from then as fashion and art had always team, many of whom in touch as proud of the switch high volumeand that I never can go wrong, and that TP: My mother brought me upI am thatstill way, to always today. follow my heart, personally andfrom professionally, spoken to me prior to that moment. I was looking for an outlet. worldwide known A high-end designer store Yves Saint Laurent a with same success. there is nothing I can’t do ifbrands I only to follow my heart and passion with a clear head andthe hard work. What inspires you? What are some the challenges you artists? face while picking your brand off the ground? TW: Do you haveof any advice for aspiring

TP: Think big and don’t be afraid. If you think small and in fear, small and fear will happen.

My biggest challenge has been structure in order to help me execute all the things I've been trying to put forward. TW: How do you make yourself known?

TP: I walk the walk and test my product every day by wearing it. I get comments from many on the street, on social media, or at events. I am

What arebecause you most proud so and far people in yournotice. career? powerful I walk who of I am, Social media and marketing is needed. Personal impression is what people don’t forget as they do pretty pictures or models. Not to underestimate market-

I am most proud of being the first African American who was taken handful of my people to Japan ing,with but I aget known by presence in theto right places and by wearbe trained as future store general manager. I was able to open stores NYC and San Francisco as ing in myJapan, own products. Store Manager while implementing all Japanese culture and having revenue over $1.5 million sales on the TW: What sets you apart from other underground designers? first day of each store opening. I hired every one of 800 stores employees including my management TP: am not an underground designer, I am just not known yet. My team, many of whom I am still in touch with today. I am as proud ofI the switch from high volume whole is different as is my style. So it’s my worldwide known brands to A high-end designer store Yves Saintapproach Laurenttoathe with the industry same success. What inspires you?

style that separates me from others.

TW: Why do you want to be in this business? TP: Because this is my passion, and when it’s a passion, it’s not business, and I don’t have to compromise my idea for monetary gain. Success comes from a great idea; it doesn’t happen that ideas come from great success. When it is a passion then it’s not work and hours don’t matter because I do what I love to do. Then, it’s not a business but a blessing that I can do what I love and am meant to do. Be sure to check out 1984 V website. www.thestyle1984V.squarespace.com

ORGANIC COUTURE Jacmel And Co founder Lucie Cincinatis on her quirky fruit bags. By Lianne Texeira

Lucie Cincinatis launched her first bag atelier in January 2014 while visiting Haiti. The Belgium raised Columbia University graduate quit Cincinatis launched first atelierambitions in January 2014an while visiting Haiti. Thewith Belgium raised chilher job at aLucie financial firm on Wall Street toher fulfil her bag alternative of joining established NGO to work under privileged Columbia University graduate quit job for at aa fellowship financial program firm onwith Wall StreetAmerican to fulfil her alternative ambitions of dren who need education to sustain their families. Sheher applied a Jewish humanitarian organization and was assigned theestablished french colonial townto of work Port-Au-Prince, Haiti. She workedchildren in the local slums teaching english and art whentheir she nojoiningtoan NGO with under privileged who need education to sustain ticed that families. charity wasShe developing a bad cycle of dependency in Haiti. It was then she discovered a fruit that changed her life. The calabash was applied for a fellowship program with a Jewish American humanitarian organization and was one of the first cultivated plants in the world, not grown primarily for food, but for use as a water container. The bottle gourd has been used by assigned to the french colonial town of Port-Au-Prince, Haiti. She worked in the local slums teaching english traditional cultures in Africa, Asia, Europe and the Americas for thousands of years. In Haiti, and art when noticedfruit” that and charity was developing a bad cycle of dependency in Haiti. It was then she the calabash is known to beshe a “spiritual is often used during voodoo sacred rituals. fruitabout thathow changed her life. The calabash was one of The youngdiscovered entrepreneuratalks she discovered a sustainable way of creating jobsthe for first cultivated plants in the world, not

grown primarily for food, but for use as a water container. The bottle gourd has been used by traditional as a ﬁnancial analyst which really wasn't fulﬁlling. I quit my cultures in and Africa, Europe andinthe Americas for thousands of years. In Haiti, the calabash is known to be a Tell us about yourself whatAsia, leadjob you to enrolled Haiti?! and a one-year fellowship program that sent me “spiritual andraised is often used voodoo rituals. Thetoyoung entrepreneur talks about how she I’m 24 years old. I wasfruit” born and Brussels, Belgium andanrecently graduated from toin Haiti. I haveduring always been avidsacred traveller, and wanted Columbiadiscovered University where I studied go international relationsto and economics. Afterabout graduating on a new adventure grow and learn more what I a sustainable way of creating jobs for the unemployed, making bags out of calabash.!

from college, I got a job on WallStreet wanted as a financial which really I quit to do inanalyst life. Haiti inspired mewasn’t a lot: itsfulfilling. raw beauty, its my job and enrolled in a one-year fellowship program me to Haiti. artisan I have population. always been resilient people andthat it’s sent uniquely talented I an avid traveller, and wanted to go ondecided a new adventure to grow and learn more about what I to start a business, a social enterprise that would Tell us about yourself aand what lead you to Haiti?! wanted to do in life. Haiti inspired mecreate lot:jobs its raw beauty, itslocal resilient people and empower people. I love and beingit’s an uniquely talented artisan population. I decided to start a business, a social enterprise that would create entrepreneur and see how my work directly impactS I'm 24 years old. I was born and raised in Brussels, Belgium andlocal recently graduated from Columbia University I'm hoping that and journey jobs and empower local people. I lovecommunities. being an entrepreneur andmy seepersonal how mystory work directly where I studied international relations and economics. After graduating from college, I got a job on WallStreet will inspire my peers.!story and journey w!ill inspire my impactS local communities. I’m hoping that my personal peers! What sparked the idea of designing the unique ‘fruit bag’ What sparked the idea of designing the as aunique trend?! ‘fruit bag’ as a trend? 1 During a trip to the southern town of During Jacmel,aknown forsouthern its artisan and galleries, I met trip to the town ofart Jacmel, known for its a “Rastaman” named Raphael who introduced this very interesting green fruit:Raphael the artisan andme art to galleries, I met a “Rastaman" named calabash. He was using it as a water container and had nicely crafted it; I thought it looked who introduced me to this very interesting green fruit: the beautiful. We picked up leather together and I He asked toitmake a leather calabash bagnicely for calabash. washim using as a water container and had me, which he did. Then everything grew organically: I started wearing myWe calabash bag evcrafted it; I thought it looked beautiful. picked up leather together asked him to makeme a leather bag bag. for erywhere and girls in the streets of New York,and RioIor London asked aboutcalabash that gourd whichso heunique, did. Then everything organically: I started I saw there was some potential in the me, product, original andgrew organic! A few months wearing calabash bag and everywhere girls in the streets of later, I opened an atelier in collaboration withmy a few artisans, started and producing more cala-

! !

How many bags get sold in a month and how long does bash bags. I wanted to give a shot, and I truly it it take to make one?!believed and still believe in the uniqueness of the product.

Right now, we are working with a relatively small team of artisans to make sure the quality is great. We first start to When did you decide to launch the merchandise? prepare the fruits, cut them, take off the inside meat and dry As soon as we started the production last April 2014, we launched our online website. them. Then we are preparing leather straps andsummer different We were limited in time because we knew that the bags the would do well in the pieces that go into a calabash done, the due to their look and design. A fantastic creative agencymaking. based inOnce New this YorkisCity, Black women artisans can start assembling the bags, it takes & Black Creative, helped us out and built our site in a few weeks, so we would be able approximatively oneworking entire day makecollection a bag. So,and weadding can to start selling our inventory. We are currently onto a new as a financial analyst which really wasn't fulfilling. I quit my more products to our brand, and will be launching our new site within the next few produce and sell approximatively 70 bags per months when job Another and enrolled in moment a one-year fellowship that sent me w!eeks. exciting Jacmel & Co!program working for at full capacity. I'm hoping to double this capacity to Haiti. I have always been an avid traveller, and wanted to in the next few months by hiring additional artisans. ! Do you have any experience How didmore you decide to takeI such a risk? go on a new adventure in to fashion? grow and learn about what I do wanted not haveto a particular in fashion, I did some modelling when I do in life.experience Haiti inspired me a although lot: its raw beauty, its was resilient younger and many of my friends in New York work in the fashion industry. I startpeople andCan it’s uniquely talented population. I the growth you elaborate on artisan any stories, ed this project out of a passion for Haiti, its artisans andpersonal the calabash bag which I think decided to start a business, a social enterprise that would of the Every startup?! is truly a one of a kind product. bag is unique due to the size and shape of each create fruit jobs and andthis empower localfeature people. I love being an oncompetitive individual isThe a unique that makes our product in the growth of a startup often depends the people you are entrepreneur how my work directly impactS local handbag market. It and is of see course risky, not only to start a business, but a fashion business working with. In my case, I'm alone in Haiti managing in a third world country like Haiti. But I like thesure adventure andjourney the journey and believe communities. I'm hoping that my personal story and artisans and making the business is growing. However, that will if I truly believe something, I cannetwork make theofmagic happen! Other inspire myin peers.! I have a great people, mentors andentrepreneurs friends who would probably answer : “No risk, no returns!” are encouraging me in the journey and helping me in aspects the business. There are many thevarious idea ofdifferent designing theofunique ‘fruit bag’ one? HowWhat many sparked bags get sold in a month and how long does it take to make challenges when starting a business, andto it make seemssure as the a trend?! Rightasnow, we are working with a relatively small team of artisans the entrepreneurs who really make it work are those who quality is great. We first start to prepare the fruits, cut them, take off the inside meat and During a trip to the southern town of Jacmel, known for its believe the most in their ideas and put all their energy, dry them. Then preparing the leather straps and different pieces that go into a artisan andwe artare galleries, I met a “Rastaman" named Raphael passion and into artisans them. This what I'm tryingthe to bags, calabash making. Once this is done, thetime women canisstart assembling who introduced me to this very interesting green fruit: the it takes approximatively one entireThe dayend to make a bag. So, most we can produce aspect and sellinapachieve. goal is not the important my calabash. 70 Hebags wasper using it aswhen a water container and had nicely proximatively months working at full capacity. I’m hoping to double opinion—of course I want to see Jacmel & Co. grow, but I crafted it; thought it looked beautiful. We pickedartisans. up leather this capacity i!nIthe next few by hiring alsomonths know that every additional single experience I had and every single together and I asked him to make leather calabashwill baghelp for me for the rest of my life. The journey is what matters the most. ! challenge I was aable to overcome Can me, you which elaborate on any personal stories, the growth of the startup? he did. Then everything grew organically: I started The growth of a often depends on the people youinare working wearing mystartup calabash bag everywhere and girls the streets with. of In my case, I’m alone in Haiti managing artisans and making sure the business is growing. However, I have a great network of people, mentors and friends who are encouraging me in the journey and helping New York, Rio or London asked mechallenges about thatto gourd bag. I unique Whatofwere the create this business what and is your main as an NGO me in various different aspects the business. There are many challenges when starting and a business, it seems aspurpose the entrepreneurs who saw there was some potential in the product, so unique, really make it work are those who believe the most in their ideas and put all their energy, passion and time into them. This is what I’m trying representative?! original and A few months later, I aspect opened atelier in my collaboration with a I'm few artisans, and started to achieve. The endorganic! goal isStarting not the amost important in an my opinion—of course I want see Jacmel & Co.impatient grow, but to I also that every business is never an easy thing, and main issue is to that somehow see know my business single experiencemore I hadcalabash and every single challenge I was able to overcome will help me for the rest of my life. The journey is what matters producing bags. I wanted to give it a shot, and I truly believed and still believe in the grow, and I sometimes forget that it takes months and years to build a solid brand and project. I always go at the most.uniqueness of the product. ! 100% and forget that things can take time..especially in a country like Haiti with such a different culture. ! Regarding the business, I have such a great relationship with the artisans I collaborate with but I would say What were the challenges to create this unique business and what is your that one of the most important challenges that I'm facing is NGO quality control. If we have an order for a specific main purpose as an representative? design, the artisans tend to add their own input creativity and add details themy bags thatissue I never askI’m for.someIt When did you decide toanlaunch thetoand merchandise?! Starting a and business is never easy thing, main is that can be difficult when running a business and fulfilling orders for specific clients, but once again, it takes time to how impatient see mythe business grow, and sometimes As soon as wetostarted production lastIApril 2014, forget that it takes train people and make sure they are detail oriented in every single aspect of their work. ! months and years to build a solid brand and project. go at 100% and we launched our online website. We were limitedI always in forget that things can take time..especially in a country like Haiti with such time because we knew that the bags would do well in a different culture. ! Regarding the business, I have such a great relationship the summer dueI collaborate to their look and design. A say fantastic with the artisans with but I would that one of the most im3 creativechallenges agency based in New City, control. Black &IfBlack portant that I’m facingYork is quality we have an order for usartisans out andtend built a few aCreative, helped specific design, the toour addsite theirinown input and creativity and add details to the bags that I never ask for. It can be difficult when running a weeks, so we would be able to start selling our business and fulfilling orders for specific clients, but once again, it takes time inventory. We are currently working on a new to train people and make sure they are detail oriented in every single aspect collection and adding more products to our brand, and of their work.

! !

will be launching our new site within the next few weeks.goals? Another moment for Jacmel and & Co! ! Future Areexciting you planning to experiment take the brand to the

! !

next level? Yes, while we are still elaborating on the calabash bags, and playing with the designs and leather colors, we also just launched a “home decor” collection Do you have any experience in fashion? How did made of calabash too. Those can be used as shades above candles and create decide to takeboth such risk?!and outdoor environments. In the future, ayou beautiful ambiance in a indoor I dohoping not have a particular experience fashion, I’m to work with various artisan in groups within Haiti or in other places around the world; dream is to create an ethical fashion brand, making although I did somemy modelling when I was younger unique products with artisans from all over the world. and many of my friends in New York work in the In the short-term, I will also start featuring paintings of local Haitian artists - each month, there will fashion industry. I started this project out of a passion be “the artist of the month” featured on my site. At the end of the day, they are so many talented artists and artisans in Haiti who are just waiting to have some exposure and access to other markets. I want to be that link that allows them to grow and nurture their passion for the arts while making a living out 2 of it.

�� by�� Daphne Corrales �� As the world of Christmas begins to take its course, the fashion�� world does its own rejoicing of this favorite time of year. Whether you’re attending the traditional ugly sweater celebra� �� tion or a sequins and rhinestones festivity, we’ve unwrapped �� the naughty and nice style pointers of what will be rocking around the Christmas tree this season. �� The holiday season, or also known as party season is when the temperature drops, but that doesn’t mean our hemlines shouldn’t. Let this be �� the time of year when we can let it show, let it show, let it show. Don’t be afraid to deck the halls this season with a bold dress to make you �� feel the belle of the ball. Whether if choosing a bright skater dress or a dark sparkling body con, it is very important to feel comfortable inside �� and out. Accessorize with glitz jewelry and clutches, work the golden locks, and try a fresh new make up look. (Style Tip: Beading, metallics, and shimmers are perfect for that holiday vibes.) Dress from the inside out. Let the little things that make you feel chic and classy get you in a �� good mood. �� For instance, wear a sexy set of lingerie under your outfit and let a sweet scent of perfume do all the talking. It’s almost a start of the new year, pamper yourself down to the last bit. How about that ugly sweater party? This party is the ultimate challenge of the year (But let it be a fun �� challenge.) Girl, you are just going to have to glam the hair and make up to make eyes turn away from the disaster you’re wearing. Although �� this may sound a little overwhelming, for the most part it’s all about having fun with it. Get ready with the girls or hit the holiday sale racks. � �� So what to wear when the party is away from the party? If you’ve been wearing booties all year, try going for knee high boots and if you’ve �� been wearing tall boots, try on some ankle boots. �� Footwear can make all the difference in an outfit, here’s your chance to try something new. Your shoe collection will thank you later. (Style �� Tip: Try some printed socks for extra styling and warmth!) Sweaters, scarves (Circle scarves are a must!), coats, and any layering pieces are �� essentials what makes this time of year merry. Not only does it do you justice to stay toasty, but puts your wardrobe to work for some mix and �� matching. And who says skirts and shorts are only for the spring and summer? Be smart when incorporating these pieces during this winter

Joy to the Fashion World Holiday fashion tips

wonderland. Try tights underneath and pull up some comfy knee high socks.

Let this time of year bring peace to you and your closet. Who knows, you may be finding a brand new style for the upcoming year while you’re having fun. That’s what fashion is about. It’s about appreciating the past, being inspired from it, and incorporating different personalities for the new. Never forget that the holidays are the time of giving and gathering. Let others remember your gifts by putting yourself in them. Same goes with the outfits you wear. Let people remember you; ’tis the season by how you strut your holiday stuff.

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High End vs. Low End

The Big Profits of High and Low End Fashion

High End vs. Low End

while being creative at the same time. Louis Vuitton offers their employees great benefits; according to sales associate Saraya, “along with a 401K plan, and a very competitive and friendly

over 50 times for copyright of designers in their clothing and poor working conditions but the company continues to grow and sells so fast nothing seems to affect their business strides.

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SKECHERS WEBSITE

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Questions and Answers

SKECHERS WEBSITE

Done by Kaisha Jean-Louis and Kurtis Langford

Academy of Art Alumni, Kurtis Langford speaks with Kaisha Jean-Louis about his fashion career at shoe company SKETCHERS.

How long did you work for How did you get the How did this position influence the company? position? Students interested in a fashion career can be inspired and motivated by Academy of Art Alumni, Curtis Langford a sample coordinator in California. yourDuring style?his college years Langford Born and raised in northern California, Langford studied fashion at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. SKECHERS WEBSITE SKECHERS WEBSITE I have worked at SKECHERS By chance. Actually, I'd landed a job at SKECHERS, a multimillion dollar American shoe brand where he started as a sales associate in the fall of 2012, establishing himself and now his forway a little working up to over be partthree of the creative team for Kidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s,mentioned Womens and to Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections. As part of the coordinating team Langford organized domesThe company is a very relaxed a coworker tic and international conferences, shows and photo shoots. believes he wasretail able toIachieve this role byenvironment, going above and beyond customers, years. I worked two andtrade a half so myfor style has that He while I loved making sure exceptional customer service and shopping experience. Langford moved to southern California in the spring of 2013 to join SKEyears inthey ourreceive corporate focus transitioned in that way. was looking for something CHERS corporate offices in Manhattan Beach. stores and the remaining time Done by Kaishamore Jean-Louis and Kurtis Langford Especially working with permanent. His dad children's footwear, you have to happened to be in a very What isHow it like inwork the for longbeing did you How did you get the have fun. So I play with patterns, important position in the How did this position influence the company? position? corporate environment? color, and proportions. And I company and your style? always pair every outfit with a recommended me for I have worked at SKECHERS By chance. Actually, I'd the It is great! Having worked in our pair of SKECHERS. position that in. now for a little over three The company is a very relaxed mentioned to aI am coworker retail stores very years. II was worked two and a half environment, so my style has that while I loved retail I How was the transition comfortable with the years in our corporate focus transitioned in that way. was looking for something from in retail to Wasworking your life affected by this stores and the remaining merchandise, seeing how thetime Especially with morebeing permanent. His dad corporate? position? Were theretoany children's footwear, you have happened to be in a very product is developed and What is it like being in the have fun. So I play patterns, important position in the changes youwith needed to make or createdcorporate is such an invaluable environment? color,change and proportions. And I company and It was very seamless. The of routine? experience. always pair every outfit with a recommended me well for the company is very It is great! Having worked in our pair of SKECHERS. position that I am in. no How did thestores education of integrated and I had It definitely was. I really had to retail I was very How was the transition Academy of Art issues transitioning from grow up a bit, buckle down and comfortable with the from to being in retail toAlso Was your lifethat affected University help you in how the merchandise, seeing retail production. realize I amby anthis artist but I am corporate? position? Were there any product is developed and this position? the knowledge of product working with a multimillionchanges you needed to make or created is such an invaluable and retail very valuable dollar corporation. Just saying It was veryisseamless. The change of routine? experience. The education at AAU was incompany production. that really helped me transition is very well Howmade did the education what truly me into of integrated and I had no It definitely was. Ithe really had to into being professional I am Academy Art issues transitioning from growtoday. up a bit, buckle down and who I am today.ofI have Has this position affected help you in retail to production. Also realize that I am an artist but I am learnedUniversity from wonderful your short/long term goals or this position? the knowledge of product working with a multimillionprofessors how to apply did advance longanditretail is veryyour valuable dollar corporation. Just saying the lessons from class into was Has this position changed The education at AAU in production. term goals? that really helped me transition the realwhat world. I don't your the long-term career truly made me into into being professional I ampath? think there a better who Iisam today. Iway have today. this I Has think it position actuallyaffected advanced learned from wonderful I think it has truly defined to learn or a place to learn. your short/longgoals term goals or my long-term by 50%. professors how to apply what I want to do, which is advance your longI did nowit am interested to see the lessons from class into Has this position changed term goals? to continue working in What are thethe realchallenges? world. I don't where I will be in this your long-term career path? product development. I am think there is a better way company in 10 years if this I think it actually advanced excited about my future at I wouldtosay juggling the I think it has truly defined learn or a place to day learn.to ismy where I am goals at in by 3 years. long-term 50%. and Iisknow I whatSKECHERS, I want to do, which day. Sometimes you never I now am interested to see to continue working into the table. What are the challenges? will bring a lot know what task will be thrown where I will be in this product development. I am at you. But how you tackle the company in 10 years if this excited about my future at I would say juggling the day to is where I am at in 3 years. tasks and execute them is what SKECHERS, and I know I day. Sometimes you never really counts. will bring a lot to the table. know what task will be thrown

Questions and Answers

at you. But how you tackle the tasks and execute them is what really counts.

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