STAFF LIST GINA JEE editor-in-chief RICHARD XIANG creative director / photographer JESSICA CHEE fashion director SAUMYA KUMAR layout editor WENDY LI pr director ZIWEI ZHAO event coordinator ADRIANNA WU pr assistant RACHEL GER fashion assistant MIA MAGUIRE fashion assistant JENNIFER MUNN fashion assistant KATIE HUANG event assistant ALYSSAH PINITSAK layout assistant MAKENZIE LOWE creative assistant
Letter from the Editor Summer is fast approaching and we’re all looking forward to sunny days and relaxation on the beach. The warm seasons allow a greater opportunity to play with bright colors and bold prints in our day to day wear. As I spent the past three months traveling through Europe, I noticed the wide array of differences in style across various countries. From this experience I’ve learned fashion is more than the clothes on our backs. It encompasses an attitude and exhibition of culture unique to the time we live in. Through your clothes and disposition you can exude confidence and provide insight to the type of individual you are. At Fashion Quarterly here in San Diego, we strive to stand out as dedicated rising professionals through the work we put forth and the standards we have for ourselves. By collaborating with UCSD alumni currently in the fashion industry and founder of swimsuit brand Boys+Arrows, we have displayed individuals who have used fashion and their own unique personal style in order to make a name for themselves in their professional lives. Furthermore, we’ve striven to incorporate the cultural illustrations seen in fashion. We came across many art incorporated looks to use as inspiration to create our S/S 14 issue. As Alexander McQueen drew from Salvador Dalí’s surreal work and eccentric nature to create some of his most memorable designs, we spent time visiting numerous museums to draw creative ideas for our spreads. As art encompasses some of the most significant remnants of the time period in which the works were created in, fashion can also be representative of a time period. In many instances these worlds have a way of overlapping with one another, even in examples such as Coco Chanel’s rise to success and deep associations with Pierre Reverdy and Pablo Picasso. Through all the cultural evidences seen through fashion, we hope to capture a piece of the lifestyle that makes up San Diego. Happy summer!
Gina
SHIMMER
Dress from Mimi & Red
Fashion Quarterly sits down with Boys+Arrows, an online swimwear business, to ask them a few questions about their infuence, inspiration and vision. Where are you from and did it influence your desire to start a bikini line? What made you want to start a bikini line in the first place? I am from Saugus, CA! Where I am from did not influence me, but how I was brought up absolutely did. I lived in a bikini, whether it was in my backyard on a hot summer day, long into the night, or a quick drive down the 126 freeway to Ventura’s and Carpinteria’s beaches where I now reside. I wanted to start a bikini brand because my love for bikinis. Traveling and troublemaking was overwhelming and I needed to put all that energy into something that would help other gals live a lifestyle that I admire so much. How do go about your design process (design, materials, colors, etc.) for each collection? Where are your bikinis made? The design process! Man. Starts with a thought. Maybe like an, “ah ha” moment. I write it down in words, sketch it when the mood is right, and magically turn it into a physical bikini. Usually I will edit it 2-3 times to make the fit absolutely perfect. Colors, materials and all that jazz come first. You need to know what you’re working with before you create a garment.
What is the type of girl that Boys and Arrows represents? What are some characteristics of the girls who wear your suits? The Boys+Arrows girl is living for today, not worried about tomorrow. She is confident and has a love for the world and traveling that is impossible to ignore. And of course as you might know she is a huge trouble maker! The good ol’ fashioned kind. Maybe she’s robbed a few banks, and she definitely gives the boys a run for their money. How was starting Boys and Arrows in the beginning to where and what it has become today? Do you have any advice for people who are just starting to create a business in the retail industry? Hard! It is the most challenging thing I have ever done. I work around the clock and have since the beginning. If I had not, it would of never worked. Of course it is extremely rewarding or I would not have stuck around. I can’t imagine my life if I didn’t get to create bikinis. My advice for people starting out is do not give up! And don’t take no for an answer. Ever. What was a major moment for Boys + Arrows so far? A major moment for Boys+Arrows was when we starting selling to accounts like Free People and Anthropologie. Super proud moment for me personally. Another huge and amazing moment was when we hired our first employee! Can’t wait to hire even more this year.
How did you come up with the name Boys and Arrows?
What are your favorite pieces from your collection?
A ton of hard core brain storming sessions with myself. I loved bows and arrows but thought it was a little too serious and masculine. I somehow thought of Boys+Arrows. Weaponry signifies trouble making, and boys... WELL. Hobbies.
This season I’m obsessed with the Kiki the Killer bottom and Wilma the Wreck top. The fit on these styles is flawless. I just feel so good when I am wearing this bikini.
How did you get involved with the Young and Brave Foundation? How is it working with another business? Do you have any other nonprofits or businesses that you would like to do collaborations with in the future? I was on the beach in a Boys+Arrows bikini drinking an ice cold brewsky when Matt from Young and Brave randomly was there doing the same thing! Actually he had been surfing being far more productive than me, who was bronzing and enjoying an adult beverage. Anyways, his cause needs no explanation as to why i would want to be involved. We started talking that lovely afternoon and the rest is history. I had to be a part of it. Business can be gross and I wanted to be part of something that made me feel 100% good. Giving back to kids with Cancer is a no brainer. I wish I could do it for a living! We hope to do amazing things with Young and Brave for years to come. Working with another business in my experience has been positive, but I do suggest making sure you work with people who you would want to hang out with. Otherwise I’m sure it could not be as good of an experience as I have had.
Where do you think and hope Boys and Arrows will be in five years? Boys+Arrows will be exactly where we are today but hopefully giving you way more of a selection of stellar bikinis, have-to-have cover ups, and contributing to tons of great memories around the world. We are already a national brand, so we just want to expand on that and stay true to who we are. Any beach and bikini tips you can share with our readers? Always bring speakers to the beach! And a rock ‘n roll playlist. Oh and of course an ice chest filled with adult beverages. Almost forgot you want bikini tips! Less is always more, so don’t try to hide it or it becomes more obvious. Also I can not stress enough how important it is to feel confident in the bikini you buy. Don’t buy something that you can’t dance around in without being worried about what is falling out. There are bikinis out there that fit and allow for dance moves! For instance, Boys+Arrows bikinis do just this.
Where are they now?
UCSD Alumni in the fashion industry
Were you involved in any organizations or groups at UCSD? Did it help you at all now, looking back? Would you do anything differently?
Where are you working now? What has been one or some of your favorite moments working in the fashion industry so far?
I was in FQ for about a year and a half and it was a good creative outlet. It was also a fun thing to bring up at job interviews to show the extent of my interest for the field. Being the Editor-in-Chief my last year helped with my management skills and that translates well regardless of what career path was chosen post graduation. I met a very good friend through FQ. She was the editor before me and I hang out with her in New York all the time. Funnily enough, she’s apartment mates with the editor before her so the three of us are all here in the city together and I’m very grateful for their friendship.
I just got promoted to being the assistant social media manager at Bergdorf Goodman. I worked as an assistant personal shopper at the store for about a year and a half before that. Working at BG has opened so many doors for me as it’s the most luxurious store in all of New York and it’s opened my eyes to a world I thought only existed in movies. Most people outside of New York don’t know much about us but we’re part of the Neiman Marcus group and we carry the most high end merchandise. Going to shows and meeting designers is always fun. The first designer I met at BG was Prabal Gurung and it was so casual and relaxed because he was just hanging out on the 3rd floor of the store which was where I worked. I’ve also met Jason Wu, the Olsen twins, and the girls of Cushnie et Ochs to name a few so that’s always fun.
What did you study at UCSD? Has it helped you in your career now or are you in a completely different field? Did you study anything else post-grad? I studied management science and it has absolutely nothing to do with what I’m doing now. That being said, I don’t think it was a waste. I got lucky with timing and great opportunities in New York but had fashion not worked out, I knew I had something to fall back on. How do you recommend people to search for jobs within the industry? A lot of internships now are for school credit only so I wouldn’t wait until after graduation to look. Think about starting early. If you’re serious about breaking into the industry, consider interning in New York for a summer while you’re still in school. LA has some good opportunities as well if NYC isn’t a possibility for you. How did you get started in the fashion industry? Do you have any advice for people who want to enter the fashion industry or are just getting started? I literally skipped out on graduation and moved up to San Francisco for a magazine internship the day after my last final. I decided to finish school in 3 years because I was tired of the lax pace in SoCal and thought SF would be big enough of a change for me. It wasn’t quite what I was looking for so I booked a one way ticket to New York without telling my parents. I am definitely not suggesting for anyone else to do that because in retrospect, my move was a bit reckless and could have ended badly. But either way, I figured I had nothing to lose but some time and effort. And a few hundred dollars I had saved up for my plane ticket and maybe a few more if I had to buy another ticket home. I flew to New York and crashed at my friend’s apartment for a week and literally had 7 interviews in my first two days and started an account executive internship at Cédric Charlier 3 days after moving to NYC. Here’s a tidbit to keep in mind: always say thank you. Do it via email or a handwritten note. I emailed my internship boss an hour after my interview to thank her for her time and she called me and offered me the position about 5 minutes later. It doesn’t always happen this way but saying thank you is something you should never forget to do.
How is it working the fashion industry overall? Any words of wisdom? It’s not all glitz and glamour but it’s also not quite as scary as some may think. I find it silly when my friends from home or even people I meet here who don’t work in fashion ask me if all the people around me are rude and pretentious because that’s their impression of the industry. Sure, there are some people like that but almost my entire group of friends in the city work in fashion and they’re neither rude nor pretentious by any means. I would, however, recommend taking everything with a grain of salt because everyone who’s just starting out in fashion is struggling to succeed and sometimes people get a little too ambitious and self-centered. Also, know how to set your boundaries. When you’re already giving it 110%, don’t let anyone ask you for more. Lastly, just because you’ve gotten your foot in the door doesn’t mean you’ve arrived. Lots of people get a foot in the door and then realize that they’re not welcome in the house and get kicked out. You haven’t really made it until both feet are in and the host offers you a drink. Being in New York now how does it compare to California? Was it difficult to move and adjust? Would you consider working in Los Angeles or move back to California? I absolutely love New York. It’s not for everyone and I have friends who moved here and hated it and went back. I just prefer a fast pace because I feel energized and I have met so many people here who are a lot like me in many ways and when creative people get together, it’s beneficial for everyone to have ideas bounced off of each other. I’m also very much into exploring new places to eat and seeing new art exhibits so New York is ideal for me. But I have to admit that the weather is awful here so I would consider moving to San Francisco in my 30s. Definitely not going anywhere for now and most likely not moving back to SoCal. What steps did you take to get to the position you are in now? And to become a great candidate for the position you’re in now?
Grace Ban
Photo Credit: Daniela Spector
UCSD Class of 2012 Assistant Social Media Manager at Bergdorf Goodman I honestly got lucky. I applied for the job at BG while I was still in SF and never thought I’d hear back. I went for it anyways because I thought it couldn’t hurt and I got the phone call to set up a meeting the first day I was in New York. I was on my way to a styling studio interview and was about to go into the train station when my phone rang. I’d say the most important thing is having a strong work ethic and a positive attitude. It seems cliché but it’s true and it’s also a lot more difficult than it sounds. What are you most obsessed with or looking forward to in fashion right now? I’m currently obsessed with Mansur Gavriel bags.The waitlist is impossible but the price point is very fair and the bags are great quality and so, so lightweight! It’s good for everyday use and for the weekend. My PS1 gets a little heavy sometimes
though it’s lighter than many of the other options out there so I use it on a daily basis. And my trapeze bag is very lightweight but I just hate taking it on the train during rush hour. Pony hair is not meant to withstand brushing against commuters’ backpacks! Any overall advice for students at UCSD about post-grad life? You owe it to yourself to at least try and pursue your ideal career. If you don’t try, your chance of success is literally zero.
Instagram: @lagracieuse
Christian Meshesha
UCSD Class of 2011 Producer and Image Specialist at Bobbi Brown Professional Cosmetics
Were you involved in any fashion organizations or groups at UCSD? Did it help you at all now, looking back? Would you do anything differently?
What did you study at UCSD? Has it helped you in your career now or are you in a completely different field? Did you study anything else post-grad?
I was a member of the fraternity FIJI (Phi Gamma Delta). I definitely think as far as personal growth the fraternity introduced me to many different types of people. Considering I work in beauty and fashion, its essential to be able to understand and appreciate all types of personalities, from Type A marketing executives to Creative Directors. I wouldn’t have changed anything about my experience. It was a fantastic growing experience.
I majored in Management Science and minored in Chinese Studies. Both areas of focus have helped me progress in my career. I think my travels abroad to Hong Kong also helped me really see how international business and fashion work. Most companies are looking to East Asia for expansion so to have a culture understanding of any specific region is a plus to any employer.
How do you recommend people to search for jobs within the industry? Although really honest, I think you have to have some sort of connection within in the industry. Whether its through an undergrad/graduate program, a contact, family, etc. The industry is highly competitive and tightly knit. So once you are in you are in and can move around easily. I would recommend contacting an HR rep at a company and setting up a meeting them as well as signing up with multiple job sites geared toward fashion or beauty. The absolute best (and free) way to start is with internships. Timing out your internships can be crucial to getting hired. Ideally you would want a minimum of 2 semester internships on your resume before you start applying for an entry level job. Best case scenario you will get hired on at your last internship. But if not, cold calling and emailing any contacts at a company always ends with an HR contact. How did you get started in the fashion industry? Do you have any advice for people who want to enter the fashion industry or are just getting started?
+ Olivia for two years and finished as the Associate Producer for the brand. I left Alice + Olivia to be a Casting Associate at an agency called The Establishment. This was the hardest, fastest job I’ve ever had. But I also got to work with the best clients, from Balenciaga to Tory Burch. Although amazing, I knew that casting needed to be a part of my job but not the focus and with that I decided to leave after one season. I took about a month off to just rest and get my portfolio together. When I decided to start looking a friend of mine (Director of Video) at Bobbi Brown asked me for some casting direction for an upcoming shoot and everything took off from there. Ive always been a really good listener and that’s helped me become a great candidate. Listening to creatives speak and being able to translate their vision into reality is my job so I have to be able to catch key phrases and inspirations from one short conversation. Other than that, just taking on all side job opportunities to produce and shoot so that I’m up to date on people, locations, models, photographers, etc. Models.com is my fashion bible! How is it working the fashion industry overall? Any words of wisdom?
I did a year post graduate program at Parsons in Fashion Marketing which opened me up to a world of contacts. I would say that the best advice is to have perseverance. Its a dog-eat-dog industry so pushing yourself in your area of focus and having a strong sense of self will allow you to have the right mental state to take on the industry. After you have the right state of mind, its really about learning and perfecting your craft.
The fashion industry is tough. There is no sugar coating that. You have to be really focused and sure of what you do or want to do. I always live by one motto which has really helped me in this industry: “Be so good they can’t ignore you”
Where are you working now? What has been one or some of your favorite moments working in the fashion industry so far?
For what I do, I need to work with corporate offices because production stems from the head of the creative. So LA for film or more commercial brands would be ok, but NYC, EU or Asia lend themselves towards advanced contemporary which is where I live.
I am currently a Producer and Image Specialist at Bobbi Brown Professional Cosmetics. I would say two moments come to mind. The first would be casting the SS14 Alexander Wang show while an associate at The Establishment Casting. I am a huge fan of Alex (being an intern to casting his show) so to see the entire process from collection sketches to runway was an amazing experience. The second moment happened recently. At Bobbi Brown I handle casting and production so casting talent for our FW14 season was my first task. After many meetings with Bobbi, we decided that Kate Upton was the perfect fit for us. So keeping that secret for months and then announcing it to the public was so great. What steps did you take to get to the position you are in now? And to become a great candidate for the position you’re in now? While in school I interned in PR/Marketing at Alexander Wang and WorldWide Communications at Bottega Veneta. About a month before graduation I started to apply and interview for full time positions and was hired at Alice + Olivia as an Assistant Producer for Creative Services. I was at Alice
Being in New York now how does it compare to California? Was it difficult to move and adjust? Would you consider working in Los Angeles or move back to California?
What are you most obsessed with or looking forward to in fashion right now? I think London has some amazing talent right now. Its always been quirky but I think opinions are starting to change and look past Burberry as the London leader. Peter Pilotto, Mary Katranzou and Simone Rocha have had some incredible seasons so I can’t wait to see whats going to happening there in the next two years. Overall, this sweeping 90’s revival has really taken over so its going to be very interesting to see where the industry turns and how brands that banked on the trend will adapt. Any overall advice for students at UCSD about post-grad life? It all starts at UCSD. Take as much time trying different things and getting to know yourself. That really is the foundation for a prosperous career. As long as you are happy with your work, life and self then everything will fall into place.
Were you involved in any fashion organizations or groups at UCSD? Did it help you at all now, looking back? Would you do anything differently? I was a member of the Undergraduate Communications Society my senior year. In retrospect, I really do wish I joined more groups and took more opportunities to network and meet people outside of my college (ERC). What did you study at UCSD? Has it helped you in your career now or are you in a completely different field? Did you study anything else post-grad? I majored in Communications and also received a minor in International Studies. I did not study anything else post-graduation. UCSD gave me the opportunity to pursue scholarly subjects and academic topics of my interest. Classes like Language Within Deaf Communities and Culture and Politics of Food were very interesting and helped me develop many of my views and opinions but unfortunately… have little to do with what I do at work. Being a student at UCSD, however, gave me the means to partake in a number of internships that gave me real world experience and allowed me to develop the skills I use on the job. How do you recommend people to search for jobs within the industry? There are great opportunities on LinkedIn and job sites like indeed.com but I found that emailing companies with a short message and your resume attached is also super effective. Be open minded about opportunities. My original career goal was to work in advertising but I would also consider other positions that weren’t exactly what I thought my dream job would be. How did you get started in the fashion industry? Do you have any advice for people who want to enter the fashion industry or are just getting started? I moved to Los Angeles and started looking for any internship opportunity I could find. I sent a few emails to PR and advertising agencies, design firms, and fashion companies with offices in L.A. like Rodarte, A.L.C., and Vince. I eventually landed an interview with Band of Outsiders. Don’t be afraid to send your resume even if you feel under qualified. You never know! Always send an email to the person who interviewed you within 24 hours, thanking them for their time and consideration. It shows respect, that you are grateful for the opportunity, and really helps set you apart from other applicants. Where are you working now? What has been one or some of your favorite moments working in the fashion industry so far? I am a Press and Marketing Associate at Band of Outsiders. There are only two people in my department- my supervisor and myself. We work closely with Scott Sternberg, the Creative Director and CEO of the company. We are (obviously)
fairly small so I am involved in a little bit of everything: creating social media content, designing print collateral, producing photo shoots, assisting at runway shows, organizing presentations and events, inspiration research, etc. One of my favorite moments so far was being backstage at our Fall/Winter 2013 women’s runway show. Shown at New York Fashion Week, the collection was inspired by Billie Holiday and vintage Atari games like Asteroids 7800, Warlords, Air-Sea Battle, Haunted House, and Combat. I loved everything about the collection- the strong shoulders, the knit turban hats, the prints, and the music (a remix of Hot Knife by Tori Amos and video game sound effects). It wasn’t my first time backstage but by the end of the show, I felt an overwhelming sense of pride and happiness. I was so happy to have been a part of something so rad. I also love working on our Polaroid photo shoots. Band of Outsiders is known for its non-traditional, advertising campaigns. Scott photographs a different celebrity (with his vintage Polaroid camera) at an iconic Los Angeles location each season. I have been on over ten shoots with subjects like: Frank Ocean, Josh Brolin, Amy Adams, Rashida Jones, Michelle Williams, Ed Ruscha, Greta Gerwig, Tom Felton, and Rupert Grint. They are always fun, dreamy, and transport you to a different world…much like a good story would. We opened our first flagship store in Tokyo, Japan last fall. I worked closely with Scott and developed the two advertisements that ran in Brutus and Ginza. It was pretty cool seeing my work in such a widely distributed, prestigious magazine. What steps did you take to get to the position you are in now? And to become a great candidate for the position you’re in now? I was a very pro-active intern (or so I would like to believe). I showed up early, stayed late, and always kept a positive attitude. Sometimes I would get super cool tasks (like planning a movie screening with Net-a-porter or design tote bags) but other times I would have to do things that weren’t so fun (like stamp hangtags, cutting hundreds of fabric swatches, or driving 60+ miles a day running errands). I felt discouraged at times but always saw my tasks through to the end. I took the time to get to know co-workers and to learn about the history and culture of the company. I made a good impression on the team and when a position opened up, I was one of the first people considered for the job. How is it working the fashion industry overall? Any words of wisdom? Working in fashion is everything I thought it would be and so much more. It is fast paced, dynamic, creative and above all, a community. But it is also exhausting, relentless, and extremely stressful. Working in press and marketing, I get to see the development of a collection from the conception of designs to the creation of samples and the eventual runway show, presentation, or photo shoot. It is incredibly fulfilling to be able to help Scott convey his inspiration and ideas behind a collection. You don’t need to major in fashion to work in the fashion industry. Few of my coworkers have their degrees in their job
Cissy Huang
UCSD Class of 2011 Press and Marketing Associate at Band of Outsiders descriptions and positions. One coworker majored in sociology and now works in product development. Another majored in international business and runs our eCommerce. Our studio manager was a creative writing major. Passion will get you far and hands on experience is more valuable than where you went to school or what you majored in. Being in Los Angeles, how does it compare to New York in terms of overall lifestyle and working in the fashion industry? Would you consider working in New York one day? I cannot imagine moving to New York. I honestly love everything about Los Angeles, especially the weather. We are one of the few American fashion brands not in New York. It poses a lot of issues- we end up having to overnight a lot of packages and travel extensively, but I also think it also gives us an edge. The isolation allows us to create outside of the bubble that is the fashion industry. Our designs tend to be easy, breezy California cool and stay clear of the Uptown vs Downtown dichotomy.
What are you most obsessed with or looking forward to in fashion right now? I am relieved that clothes like sneakers and sweatshirts are making their way back into fashion. It’s easier to survive a tenhour workday when you can be comfortable. Designers like Pheobe Philo managed to make it cool to wear slip-ons again. Band of Outsiders’ Fall 2014 womenswear collection is filled with relaxed yet polished looks, made quirky through the use of trompe l’oeil. In contrast, I also love jackets with strong, architectural shoulders. I can’t wait to check out the next Proenza Schouler, Balenciaga, and 3.1 Phillip Lim collections when they hit stores this fall. Any overall advice for students at UCSD about post-grad life? Travel, see the world, take that class you’ve always wanted to take but never had enough time, go on a road trip… do something for yourself. Once you start working, you’ll never have another opportunity to take time off!
Angelina Nader UCSD Class of 2011 Founder of IIA NYC
Were you involved in any organizations or groups at UCSD? Did it help you at all now, looking back? Would you do anything differently?
What steps did you take to get to the position you are in now? And to become a great candidate for the position you’re in now?
Kappa Alpha Theta, being a part of a sorority enabled me to network and build long lasting relationships. Some of my best friends, business partner and my boyfriend all came out of being a part of Theta.
Through networking, a friend/ previous coworker helped me get into Fendi and then I worked my way up in the company. Through working there and the various people I met I was able to formulate a business plan of my own.
What did you study at UCSD? Has it helped you in your career now or are you in a completely different field? Did you study anything else post-grad?
How is it working the fashion industry overall? Any words of wisdom?
I double majored in Communications and Economics. I think both majors enhanced my knowledge of my professional career, but it was not until I started working in the field that I was able to truly understand all the elements that go in to corporate America and running your own business. How do you recommend people to search for jobs within the industry? Fashion is a tough industry it’s all about who you know. At the same time the industry is constantly evolving and searching for new ideas and in turn new people to help execute these ideas. Women’s Wear Daily is constantly posting new jobs on the website. LinkedIn has helped an immense amount of my previous colleagues and friends find jobs. Show face in the companies you are seeking out—the better they know you, the better your chances are. How did you get started in the fashion industry? Do you have any advice for people who want to enter the fashion industry or are just getting started? I initially started at Fendi in Los Angeles. I worked as a visual merchandiser for that first year and then made the move to the Big Apple a year later and worked as a junior buyer in the accessories division. After a few months in the industry I realized I wanted to use my creative abilities and all that I had learned from Fendi to start my own fashion company. Therefore IIA NYC or Insomnia came to fruition. Where are you working now? What has been one or some of your favorite moments working in the fashion industry so far? I currently run my own fashion company, IIA NYC. Insomnia is a street wear line that features various Unisex T-shirt styles, hats, and accessories. IIA sets out to encourage and inspire ambitious teens to build on their creative paths through streetart, music, photos, and fashion. Through working in the fashion industry you are able to meet and engage with incredible people, creative types that feed off of each other’s style and ideas. Some of the coolest events also come from being a part of the industry. Fashion is the center of creativity- it helps differentiate people from one another; it also helps represent artists in different fields.
There are a bunch of emotions that go into working in the fashion industry. Do not be discouraged- It is a tough industry, but everyone has to start somewhere and there will always be people that want to see you fail. Use their negativity as motivation for you to succeed and prove the others wrong. Being in New York now how does it compare to California? Was it difficult to move and adjust? Would you consider working in Los Angeles or move back to California? New York was a tough adjustment at first with the weather change and the rustle and bustle of NYC is way more aggressive than California. The energy of New York makes it easy to fall in love with the city though. People that live in New York work extremely hard to achieve what they want for their careers. It is a young, lively city and there is always something to do. Whether it be stroll in the parks, scope out streetart on random corners/alleyways, pick up street food from a vendor on any given sidewalk, or go to live music/fashion shows in the evenings. New York for me is a place of new beginningsit is where I dove into my career, where my company started, made some amazing friends, and lifelong connections. It is a place that will always be a huge part of my life. At the end of the day California is home for me. It is where the heart is. What are you most obsessed with or looking forward to in fashion right now? For Spring/Summer I am all about neutral maxis—maxi skirts with a cute crop top, a good open toe summer bootie paired with bright accessories. They are also easy to pack and very versatile for day to night transitioning. For Fall/Winter I always love jumpsuits. They’re so chic and easy. I am also really into lighter colors for this upcoming Fall/Winter I usually obsess over gem tones and of course black but it looks like it is going to be a white winter for me in clothing and weather ;] Any overall advice for students at UCSD about post-grad life? GO FOR IT- the only person that can decide whether or not you can do something is you. Stay focused and network like crazy!!!! IIA-NYC.com Instagram and Twitter: @naderang Fashion line: @iia_nyc
FLASHING LIGHTS
Jackson Pollock by Jessica Chee
There is a sense of control and hesitation that can be felt while viewing “Mural”, with the artist’s long brushstrokes flowing across the canvas as they reveal obscured dark-brown stick figures making their way across the painting. With a closer look, the ever so gently flicked splashes of paint become apparent, thus sparking a conversation regarding the painting process. How could the artist have added these marks in the middle of this enormous 8 ft. x 20 ft. canvas? Is there more to this masterpiece than meets the eye? Jackson Pollock’s creation and the conservation processes carried out to save the painting were explored in the J. Paul Getty Museum’s intimate “Mural” exhibition, on limited display from March 11 to June 1, 2014. Pollock, one of the most influential abstract expressionists and inventor of the drip painting technique, created “Mural” in 1943 at the request of Peggy Guggenheim, niece of Solomon Guggenheim, founder of New York City’s esteemed Guggenheim museum. It was a painting that preceded his more renowned and complicated drip styles, one that offered hints of recognizable forms instead of completely relinquishing the nature of the material to the canvas. “Mural” shows evident influences of the 1920’s Mexican muralist movement as well as the familiar abstraction of bodies originally fashioned by Picasso. Peggy Guggenheim’s commission would take Pollock out of his smaller-scaled easel world and become his ambitious attempt at breaking the boundaries of representational painting on traditional canvas and eventually on to become his first large-scale work with evidences of his drip style. The Conservationists at the Getty took on the painting in 2012 to work on its restoration after the painting was donated to the University of Iowa in 1951. The varnish that was applied in 1973 had become cloudy and affected the overall quality and effect of the painting, by dulling originally vibrant colors and impressive size. Through the use of cutting-edge technology including hyperspectral imaging and macro-x-ray-fluorescence scanning, the Getty Conservation Institute and museum conservators were able to extend the life of the piece after discovering the many different layers of oil paint on the canvas. This examination clarified the painting’s processes by finding that the first layer was completed “in a short burst of creative activity” and the subsequent layers applied in a wet-on-wet like fashion suggesting a shorter drying period. Research later uncovered Pollock’s mix of over twenty-five different kinds of oil paint and one type of house paint to create the painting. Despite the exhibition only occupying two rooms within the Getty Museum’s West Pavilion, there is calmness found in this personal space that solely focuses on the life of the particular painting instead of curating a larger exhibition that compares or relates the artwork/style to other artists. It is a rare, but exciting moment that allows us to reflect on the artistry of Pollock, by inviting visitors to learn and appreciate this breakthrough moment that transformed his painting career entirely.
Mural, 1943, Jackson Pollock. Oil and casein on canvas. University of Iowa Museum of Art, Gift of Peggy Guggenheim, 1959.6. Reproduced with permission from the University of Iowa. http://www. getty.edu/art/exhibitions/pollock/
Joshua Tree by Emily Bender “No arched cathedral dome bends down; The earth is iron, the sky is brass ‘Tis ages since these blistered sands Forgot the touch of flower and grass” – “Yucca Palms” (1911) by Sharlot Mabridth Hall The desert is a world of its own. With its sprawling exotic landscapes and vast expanses of undiscovered locales untouched by human hands, it creates a sanctuary of sorts, a spiritual place of stillness and silence, unseen by the prying eyes of the world. In attempting to understand cities, the opposite of the desert, journalist and author Jane Jacobs wrote, “By its nature, the metropolis provides what otherwise could be given only by traveling; namely, the strange.” The desert has its own allure that becomes almost palpable as one enters it, as it provides that which cannot be found in cities – a different kind of strangeness. Joshua Tree, located in the southeastern Mojave Desert, has continuously attracted a wide range of curious visitors ranging from mid-19th century Christian settlers to the drug-fueled rock stars of the sixties to modern urbanites wishing to flee from the bustle of contemporary city life – anyone, really, looking for spiritual guidance, inspiration and creativity, or escape. According to some sources, the origin of the name of the tree-like, twisted Yucca cacti characteristic of the Mojave Desert can be traced back to Christian settlers traveling westward in the 1850s. As they crossed the area now known as Joshua Tree National Park, traversing the labyrinthine forests of Yucca palms with their branches stretching upward, the unique shape of the trees reminded them of a story in the Old Testament in which the prophet Joshua reaches his hands up to the sky in prayer. At one point in time, about half a century later, ambitious businessmen established several mining businesses in the area, which unfortunately did not prove as profitable as they had hoped. Whether the aforementioned groups of people were searching for God or gold, the desert did not give them what they were looking for. Those who can live in symbiosis with the desert realize the importance of believing in a place rather than a religious entity or material possessions. > Joshua Tree is alluring not only because of its towering rock formations, mountain ranges, pale blue evening skies, and eponymous trees, but also because of its history. One of the most widespread tales told relating to Joshua Tree is that of talented but troubled country-rock musician Gram Parsons. In 1973, he was found dead from a drug overdose in his room at the Joshua Tree Inn. In the strange series of events that
followed, his body was stolen by his friends as it was being transported through LAX. Parsons had expressed a desire to be cremated in the desert, and they attempted to honor his wish by pouring gasoline into the coffin and throwing a lit match inside. The result was an enormous fireball, and a now-classic Joshua Tree tale. Not surprisingly, the vast, isolated desert landscape provides a setting for mysticism and the New Age crowd. For example, the dome-shaped sound chamber known as the Integratron offers “sound baths” where groups of people are exposed to harmonic sound frequencies produced by quartz bowls. These baths are supposed to have a very deep, calming effect. Then again, the allure of Joshua Tree certainly has much to do with its natural beauty. Enter the desert at dusk as the sun slowly sets. Pass the odd thrift store where white dresses hang from the shop windows, the hot desert breeze gently tugging at their hems, as the shop owner spins old Elvis Presley records on a crackling record player. Stop by the Crossroads Café for coffee and eavesdrop on the baristas exchanging theories about what really happened in room 8 at the Joshua Tree Inn on that fateful night in September 1973. Keep driving along Twentynine Palms Highway with Johnny Cash playing quietly on the car radio, passing cedars and pines, palmyra cacti and aloes, and noticing that the houses and shops become fewer and located further apart, while the appearance of trees increases rapidly. Watch as the scenery in front of you unravels with a certain cinematic grandeur, a panorama of pastels – robin egg blue turning into blush pink turning into blood orange red – which paint the sky with the rough brush strokes akin to those of the French Impressionists. Just before the dark curtain of night sweeps across the desert, get one last glimpse of the various shades of copper and rust of the rock formations towering ahead, the vast expanse of rock piles, and the mountain ranges. As the yellow moon rises, the freckled face of the night sky becomes ideal for star gazing. With its exceptionally dark skies, clear from the air pollution found in cities, the stars twinkle and shine as bright as ever in Joshua Tree. Make a bad joke about how the Belt of Orion constellation looks like the series of bruises now forming on your leg after a day of hiking and mountain climbing. Let the stillness and the silence of the desert lull you to sleep. So why does the desert attract people? Maybe they’re searching for something out in the vast Mojave landscape, something that they cannot find elsewhere. It’s a place untouched, preserved “as it should be” in its natural state and thus free from any degeneration caused by humans. There is a sense of peace and ever-present tranquility, and a quietude and beauty that Joshua Tree offers, with its iron earth and brass sky. The desert is serene yet brims with life and a special kind of energy, and provides that which cannot be found in the cities – namely, the strange.
Salvador Dalí by Gina Jee
Revered for his influence on surrealism and ostentatious personality, Salvador Dalí is one of the most influential artistic figures of the 20th century. Throughout the course of his life his ability to delve into different mediums of art and elements of pop culture gave him the opportunity to affect a generation. Dalí grew up in Figueres, Spain, where he thrived in paintings of the Catalonia landscape and eventually took his talents to the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando in Madrid. During his time in Madrid, he developed a unique fashion sense that remains iconic to this day – his waxed moustache, slicked hair, and knee breeches. His antics and rebellious nature got him expelled from school, yet he took to Paris where he began associating with the Surrealists. Beginning in the 1930’s, drastic political controversies surrounded Dalí’s life, where he was exiled from the Surrealists on account of his inability to ally politically. During World War II he and his wife Gala sought refuge in New York City, where his obsession with fame and fortune translated into an exploration of working in numerous different industries. One of Dalí’s lesser-known achievements was the work he contributed to the fashion industry. Particularly with jewelry, Dalí’s spectacular creations are on display in the Teatro Dalí in Figueres, Spain. Occupying its own building annexed to the museum, this permanent exhibition includes forty-one jewels and twenty-seven illustrations and paintings that displayed the design processed Dalí used to create his works. Dalí’s jewels encompass many elements seen in his paintings, such as melting clocks and obelisks. These symbols, representative of Dalí’s intrigue with Freud’s theory of dreams and the subconscious, reveal some of Dalí’s inner desires and fears. One of Dalí’s most iconic jewels is his 1949 Ruby Lips, designed with pearl teeth and rubies in the lips. This piece beholds many ties to the fashion and entertainment industry. Furthermore, the brooch parallels Dalí’s design of the Mae West lips sofa completed for Edward James in 1938. Mae West, a prominent actress and sex symbol of the time, would be responsible for the vision behind these iconic surrealist creations. As an ultimate representation of femininity and sensuality, the lips illustrate the ideal sophistication of women. Many designers have modeled and found inspiration in these two works, including designer Lulu Guinness who created her own padded lips clutch. Through the course of his life, Dalí’s exploration into jewelry designs and fashion has been featured in numerous publications, particularly Harper’s Bazaar. Dalí’s designs were so eccentric and unique to his time, delving creatively into surrealism within fashion and pairing unconventional pieces in garments. In the 1930’s Bonwit Teller, a prominent New York City department store, commissioned Dalí to their window displays. These included a mannequin with a head made of red roses beside Dalí’s iconic lobster telephone and a controversial dummy dressed in a negligee of green feathers. Avant-garde designer Elsa Schiaparelli also took a liking to Dalí, creating bizarre juxtapositions into her designs. In 1936 Schiaparelli’s day suit mimicking a chest of drawers was based on Dalí’s The Anthropomorphic Chest of Drawers. In 1950 this painting was also later referenced in collaboration with Christian Dior. Evidently, the exceptional talent and vision of Salvador Dalí has created an enormity of innovative contributions to the designs we see in fashion today.
Ruby Lips by Salvador Dalí, 1949
WHITE-OUT
WHEN LIFE HANDS YOU LEMONS LEMON SUGAR SCRUB
Ingredients
Directions
1/2 cup lemon juice
Whisk together all liquid ingredients until the mixture has a thick consistency. Add sugar and mix with a spoon. Add sugar depending on how thick you wish the consistency to be.
1/2 cup sugar 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon honey
BRIGHTENING AND TIGHTENING FACIAL MASK
Ingredients
1 Egg White 1/2 Tablespoon Raw Honey 1/2 Tablespoon Fresh Lemon Juice
Directions Place all ingredients in a deep bowl. Whisk briskly with a fork or whisk until foamy, 1-2 minutes. Wash and dry your face, and then, using your fingers or a small brush, spread the mixture over your entire face, avoiding the eye area. Leave the mask on for 30 minutes, or until completely dried and tight. Rinse the mask off with warm water, using a washcloth to gently wipe the mask away. Splash your face with very cold water and gently pat dry.
CUCUMBER LEMON TONER
Ingredients
1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 cups cold water 1/2 cup cucumber slices 1/2 cup lemon slices
Directions Combine all ingredients in a jar with a lid. Let sit for a while and then apply.
LEMON HONEY FACIAL MASK
Ingredients
1/2 cup lemon juice 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon Greek yogurt
Directions Mix together all of the ingredients. Apply mask to face and let dry for 10-15 minutes. Rinse face with warm water, pat face dry, and then moisturize.
PASTEL
DOUBLE TAKE
WHITE
LIGHT
DROUGHT
This publication may have been funded in part or in whole by the funds alloted by the ASUCSD. However the views expressed in the publication are solely those of Fashion Quarterly, its principle members and the authors of the content of this publication. While the publisher of this publication is a registered student organization at UC San Diego, the content, opinions, statements, and views expressed in this or any other publication published and/or distributed by Fashion Quarterly are not endorsed by and do not represent the views, opinions, policies, or positions of the ASUCSD, GSAUCSD, UC San Diego, the University of California and teh Regents or their officers, employees or agents. The publisher of this publication bears and assumes the full responsibility and liability for the contents of this publication.