Tribal Silver Jewelry

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TRIBAL SILVER J E W E L RY

2 CATALOGUE Edited by: Gian Piero C. G. Milani Texts by: Fayez Barakat, Gian Piero C. G. Milani Curated by: Maria Serena Padricelli

Publication date: 26.10.2021 Published by: HANNA BELLA PUBLISHING www.barakatgallery.eu COPYRIGHT © BARAKAT GALLERY TEXTS © THE AUTHORS All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form of electronic or mechanical means including storage by information or retrieval systems without written permission of the authors except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.

All our artefacts are guaranteed to be genuine and a certificate of authenticity is included with each item.

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London

58 Brook St, Mayfair London, W1K 5DT +44 (0) 20 7493 7778 info@barakatgallery.eu www.barakatgallery.eu

Seoul

58-4, Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea +82 02 730 1949 barakat@barakat.kr www.barakat.kr Los Angeles 941 N La Cienega Blvd Los Angeles CA 90069 +1 310 859 8408 contact@barakatgallery.com www.barakatgallery.com

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CONTENTS

Foreword

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Tribal Silver Jewelry

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Preface

The catalogue we offer to your contemplation focusses on tribal jewellery from the Near East and Central Asia, mostly dating from the 19th to the early 20th Century. Most of these artefacts were made for dowries. They were meant to be used only in the most special occasions, and are accordingly made of precious materials.

Their designs are often reminiscent of those of jeweller of past ages and cultures, in particular is the masterly use of the filigree technique. It is fascinating to see how these master jewellers in the 19th and 20th century have -almost subliminally- imitated patterns dating back as early as the Scythians, raising the wonderful and tempting possibility that this craft had been passed on from son to father since time immemorial.

Fayez Barakat President

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TRIBAL SILVER J E W E L RY

Gilded silver Tekke Turkmen amulet case - MS.1219

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Such amulet cases are considered highly prised items of jewellery among Turkemeni and/or Iranian women, for the protective powers they convey to the carriers.

Engraved Central Asia silver triangular amulet case with bells and fuchsia textile - MS.1479 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 13” (33.0cm) high x 9.5” (24.1cm) wide Weight: 1550 Gr. £15,500.00

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Turkmen silver pendant decorated with coral - MS.1186 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD £9,000.00

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Pair of long silver chain pendants decorated by lapis lazuli and leaf-shaped bells - MS.1500 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 19” (48.3cm) high Weight: 428 Gr. and 412 Gr. respectively £8,400.00

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Engraved Central Asia amulet case - MS.1220 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 15” (38.1cm) high x 11” (27.9cm) wide Weight: 1660 Gr. £7,800.00

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Exquisitely fabricated in rectangular elements attached to each other by two rows of loops and an oval buckle, closing with a clasp in the shape of a curved sword.

Antique silver belt decorated by enamelled floral patterns - MS.722 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 250 Gr. £6,800.00

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Large engraved heart-shaped Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1469 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 11” (27.9cm) high x 8” (20.3cm) wide Weight: 520 Gr. £5,200.00

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Silver filigree Ottoman circular-shaped belt buckles - MS.1527 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4.5” (11.4cm) high x 6.5” (16.5cm) wide Weight: 488 Gr. £5,000.00

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Beautifully enamelled in turquoise and cobalt blue silver belt, composed of rectangular elements engraved with vegetal motifs, centrally perforated by an actual leather belt, not visible to the eye.

Silver enamelled belt - MS.1552 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 35” (88.9cm) high Weight: 430 Gr. £4,500.00

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Leather belt with silver applied decorations - MS.1551 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD £4,500.00

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Ornate and beautifully engraved heart-shaped Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1468 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 11” (27.9cm) high x 6.5” (16.5cm) wide Weight: 400 Gr. £4,000.00

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Silver and carnelian chest pendant having the form of human eyes and nose - MS.1475 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: Central element 8” (20.32cm) high x 4” (10.16cm) wide; Lateral elements 5” (12.7cm) x 3” (7.62cm) wide Weight: 388 Gr. $3,800.00

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Pair of silver perforated hinged anklets - MS.1407 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 2” (5.1cm) high x 4.5” (11.4cm) wide Weight: 382 Gr. £4,500.00

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Rectangular leather pouch and strap, decorated by carnelians - MS.1458 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 6” (15.2cm) high x 5.5” (14.0cm) wide Weight: 468Gr. Additional information: Dimensions of pouch: 6” x 5.5 “ Dimensions of engraved plate: 5.5 “ x 4.5” Length of strap: 38 “ £4,800.00

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Octagonal engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1454 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 14.5 “ (36.8cm) high x 8.5” (21.6cm) wide Weight: 880 Gr. £4,500.00

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Islamic pendant earrings with precious stones and cultivated pearls - MS.1185 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD £4,500.00

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Yemenite coral and silver necklace - MS.1510 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 20.5” (52.1cm) high Weight: 242 Gr. £4,500.00

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Heart-shaped engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1464 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 10” (25.4cm) high x 6.5” (16.5cm) wide Weight: 376 Gr. £3,800.00

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Large engraved heart-shaped Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1463 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 13” (33.0cm) high x 8.5” (21.6cm) wide Weight: 594Gr. £3,600.00

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The buckle is made by silver thread woven tightly together, its buckle is decorated by the stylised depiction of a pheasant among large flowers.

Silver belt with rectangular buckle - MS.1506 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 32” (81.3cm) high x 2” (5.1cm) wide Weight: 404 Gr. £3,300.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1455 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 5.5” (14.0cm) high x 5.5” (14.0cm) wide Weight: 396 Gr. £3,300.00

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Tribal type silver necklace composed of enamelled red, green and blue components - MS.1539 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 310 Gr. £3,100.00

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Niello belt buckles were worn with textile belts on ceremonial occasions. The size, material and intricacy of the buckle’s design signalled the status of the wearer.

Textile belt with silver niello buckles - MS.1553 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 40” (101.6cm) high x 3” (7.6cm) wide £3,000.00

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A pair of gold earrings with a large well rounded and perforated domed element from which small cultured pearls are pending.

Pair of pendant earrings - MS.855 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 2.5” (6.4cm) high Weight: 16 Gr. £3,000.00

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Rectangular amulet with Quranic inscription - MS.1517 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 2.5” (6.4cm) high x 2” (5.1cm) wide Weight: 82 Gr. £3,000.00

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Composed of beautifully engraved and enamelled rectangular elements centrally perforated b an actual leather belt which is not visible to the eye.

Silver Islamic belt - MS.1507 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 31” (78.7cm) high Weight: 556 Gr. £2,900.00

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Intricate coral necklace with lapis lazuli beads and spherical amulet case - MS.1545 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 298 Gr. £2,800.00

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Beautifully engraved silver belt, the four frontal quadrangular components decorated by four animals in heraldic pose. The remaining elements are engraved with stylised vegetal motifs.

Silver Islamic belt - MS.1424 Circa:19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 518 Gr. £2,800.00

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Head-dress decorated with lapis lazuli and other semi-precious stones - MS.1547 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 106 Gr. £2,800.00

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Composed by a series of rectangular elements engraved by animalistic and human figures in rapid motion and heraldic poses. The buckle is ornate by a quadrangular red stone, possibly a garnet.

Silver Islamic belt - MS.1425 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 30.5” (77.5cm) high x 1” (2.5cm) wide Weight: 490 Gr. £2,800.00

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Turkoman long pendant on chain, composed of circular elements and bells - MS.1543 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 272 Gr. £2,700.00

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Heart-shaped engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1462 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 11” (27.9cm) high x 6.5” (16.5cm) wide Weight: 410 Gr. £2,500.00

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Pendant decorated by a large elliptical agate and various semiprecious stones - MS.1548 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 184 Gr. £2,500.00

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Composed of circular elements attached to one another by loops decorated by a single star. The heart-shaped buckle is ornated by an Ottoman trophy of arms Antique silver chain belt with heart-shaped buckle - MS.717 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 29” (73.7cm) high Weight: 290 Gr. £2,500.00

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Turkmen women acquired all their jewellery through their family members and as part of their own dowry, before they were given away in marriage. Such amulet cases are prized above all other jewellery, because of their protective powers, enhanced by the use of carnelian.

Gilded silver Tekke Turkmen amulet case - MS.1219 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 9.5” (24.1cm) high x 7.5” (19.1cm) wide Weight: 468 Gr. £2,400.00

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Tribal style crescent-shaped silver necklace with central Islamic inscription - MS.1504 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 6.5” (16.5cm) wide Weight: 202 Gr. £2,100.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1460 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 9” (22.9cm) high x 4” (10.2cm) wide Weight: 404 Gr. £2,100.00

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Engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant with bells on short silver chains - MS.1445 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 5.5” (14.0cm) high x 5.5” (14.0cm) wide Weight: 336 Gr. £2,000.00

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Five silver rings with a domical element and lapis lazuli stones - MS.1362 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 42 Gr. £2,000.00 Additional Information: £400 each

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Gilded silver and carnelian Central Asia headdress - MS.1530 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 196 Gr. £1,900.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian circular chest pendant with nine small bells hanging on chains - MS.1524 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 190 Gr. £1,900.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1532 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4.5” (11.4cm) high x 4.5” (11.4cm) wide Weight: 190 Gr. £1,900.00

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Turkoman Bilezik silver and carnelian cuff bracelet - MS.1402 (Pair with MS.1404) Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 3” (7.6cm) high Weight: 204 Gr. £1,900.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1523 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4.5” (11.4cm) high x 4.5” (11.4cm) wide Weight: 192 Gr. £1,900.00

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Silver tribal-style necklace composed of eight oblong and incised elements and an oval pendant - MS.1508 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 190 Gr. £1,900.00

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Heart-shaped engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1467 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 8” (20.3cm) high x 5” (12.7cm) wide Weight: 186 Gr. £1,860.00

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Circular silver Islamic ring with an engraved grey opal - MS.1492 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 28 Gr. £1,800.00

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Russian niello silver belt made and possibly made and assayed in the Don Administrative District, around the beginning of 1900. The belt consists of 12 separate plaques and a 2 piece buckle with a dagger fastener secured to one side of the buckle with a chain. A word in the Cyrillic alphabet is done in Niello lettering on the front of the buckle.

Niello silver belt - MS.1474 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 168 Gr. £1,800.00

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Two very large and conical-shaped silver rings, filigree decorated and inlaid with lapis lazuli MS.1377 121 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 76 and 78 Gr. each £1,800.00 Additional Information: £900 each

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Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant, with small bells - MS.1461 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4.5” (11.4cm) high x 4.2” (10.7cm) wide Weight: 326 Gr. £1,800.00

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Silver torque decorated by abstract and linear engraving - CB.96 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 246 Gr. £1,800.00

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Silver Islamic ovoid ring with carnelian intaglio of a helmeted figure - MS.1487 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 24 Gr. £1,800.00

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Two rectangular Turkoman silver and carnelian rings - MS.1357 (In pair with MS.1382) Circa: 19th Century AD Weight: 24 Gr. £1,800.00 Additional Information: £900 each

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Pair of Turkoman Tekke “Bilezik” silver cuff bangles - MS.1403 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 3.2” (8.1cm) high Weight: 438 Gr. both items (MS.1406 : 220 Gr. - MS. 1406: 218 Gr.) £1,800.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian amulet case with bells, on short chain - MS.1536 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 170 Gr. £1,700.00

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Two silver filigree child bracelets decorated by oval carnelians, coral and lapis lazuli - MS.1513 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 76-78 Gr. each. £1,600.00

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Silver Islamic chain pendant composed of various elements - MS.1502 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 162 Gr. £1,600.00

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Oval silver Islamic ring with carnelian intaglio of a helmeted figure - MS.1482 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 24 Gr. £1,600.00

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Beautifully enamelled in turquoise and cobalt blue silver belt, composed of rectangular elements engraved with vegetal motifs, centrally perforated by an actual leather belt, not visible to the eye.

Enamelled silver bracelet decorated by coral cabochons - MS.1550 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 158 Gr. £1,600.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1522 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 3.5” (8.9cm) high x 3.5” (8.9cm) wide Weight: 156 Gr. £1,600.00

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Large Yemeni filigree decorated silver amulet case - MS.1515 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 6.5” (16.5cm) high Weight: 152 Gr. £1,520.00

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Head-dress decorated with lapis lazuli and other semi-precious stones - MS.1546 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 7” (17.8cm) high Weight: 64 Gr. £1,500.00

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Short signature in Arabic at the back, possibly of the manufacturer.

Engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant in the form of two attached hearts - MS.1466 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 6” (15.2cm) high x 5” (12.7cm) wide Weight: 146 Gr. £1,460.00

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Engraved heart-shaped Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1465 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 9” (22.9cm) high x 5.5” (14.0cm) wide Weight: 206 Gr. £1,400.00

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Oval silver Islamic ring with carnelian intaglio MS.1480 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 22 Gr. £1,400.00

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Pair of silver engraved toques - MS.1512 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 5” (12.7cm) wide Weight: 66 Gr. £1,320.00

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Heart-shaped engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1470 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 7” (17.8cm) high x 4.5” (11.4cm) wide Weight: 128 Gr. £1,280.00

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Pair of Turkoman silver cuff bangles decorated by oval carnelians - MS.1405 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 3” (7.6cm) high Weight: 142 and 148 Gr. £1,250.00

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Silver Islamic chain necklace - MS.1501 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 248 Gr. £1,250.00

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Silver Islamic oval ring with carnelian intaglio MS.1485 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 22 Gr. £1,200.00

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Silver gold damascened rectangular amulet case and chain - MS.1538 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4.5” (11.4cm) high x 2.5” (6.4cm) wide Weight: 164 Gr. $1,200.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian triangular amulet case with bells hanging on chains - MS.1531 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 120 Gr. £1,200.00

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Four silver bird-cage type Afghani rings MS.1385 161 Circa: 19th Century AD Weight: 28 Gr. £1,200.00 Additional Information: Each of the items is also individually sold at 300£ each

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TurkomanTekke “Bilezik” Silver Cuff Bangle - MS.1339 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 5.5” (14.0cm) high Weight: 312 Gr. £1,200.00

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TurkomanTekke “Bilezik” Silver Cuff Bangles - MS.1401 (Pair with MS.1338) Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 4.5” (11.4cm) high Weight: 316 Gr. £1,200.00

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TurkomanTekke “Bilezik” Silver Cuff Bangle - MS.1340 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 5.5” (14.0cm) high Weight: 316 Gr. £1,200.00

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Turkoman silver and carnelian triangular amulet case on chain - MS.1535 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 106 Gr. £1,100.00

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The pendant’s back part has been fastened to a coin of Louis Philippe I, king of the French from 1830 to 1848.

Silver multicoloured cloisonné circular pendant on a short chain - MS.1537 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 98 Gr. £990.00

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Heart-shaped engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1472 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 5.5” (14.0cm) high x 4” (10.2cm) wide Weight: 96 Gr. £960.00

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Triangular perforated Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1456 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 6.5” (16.5cm) high x 5.5” (14.0cm) wide Weight: 180 Gr. £900.00

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Oval silver Islamic ring with carnelian intaglio of a seated figure in profile to the right MS.1398 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 24 Gr. £900.00

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Silver Islamic rhomboid ring with carnelian intaglio - MS.1488 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 18 Gr. £900.00

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Silver multicoloured cloisonné pendant on short chain - MS.1534 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 90 Gr. £900.00

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Turkoman rectangular silver chest pendant with one circular and two oval carnelians - MS.1525 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 5.5” (14.0cm) high x 2.5” (6.4cm) wide Weight: 120 Gr. £900.00

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Large silver rings with cabochon lapis lazuli MS.1380 181 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 32 Gr. each ring £900.00 Additional Information: £300 each

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Silver and carnelian decorated tubular amulet case - MS.1526 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 6.5” (16.5cm) high Weight: 194 Gr. £900.00

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Silver multicoloured cloisonné circular pendant - MS.1533 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 90 Gr. £900.00

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Silver incised pendant on long chain - MS.1540 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 80 Gr. £800.00

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Triangular Turkoman silver chest pendant - MS.1457 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4” (10.2cm) high x 3.5” (8.9cm) wide Weight: 76 Gr. £760.00

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Yemeni granulation silver amulet case - MS.1516 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4.5” (11.4cm) high Weight: 76 Gr. £760.00

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Three drop shaped silver rings - MS.1365 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 24 Gr. each ring £750.00 Additional Information: £250 each

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Three drop-shaped Turkoman silver and niello rings - MS.1373 Circa: 19th Century AD Dimensions: 1” (2.5cm) high Weight: 20 Gr. each ring £750.00 Additional Information: £250 each

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Silver Islamic rectangular ring with carnelian intaglio - MS.1486 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 22 Gr. £600.00

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Heart-shaped engraved Turkoman silver and carnelian chest pendant - MS.1471 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 4” (10.2cm) high Weight: 48 Gr. £480.00

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Elongated silver ring with agate stone and turquoises - MS.1360 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Dimensions: 2.5” (6.4cm) high Weight: 32 Gr. £360.00

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Silver ring decorated by an Islamic-period glass feature stone - MS.1359 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 24 Gr. £360.00

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Silver ring - MS.13346 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD £300.00

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Turkoman silver thimble ring with square carnelian stone - MS.1489 Circa: 19th Century AD to early 20th Century AD Weight: 20 Gr. £300.00

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Silver filigree Ottoman circular-shaped belt buckles - MS.1527

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All our artefacts are guaranteed to be genuine and a certificate of authenticity is included with each item.

All items are offered for sale.

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London

58 Brook St, Mayfair London, W1K 5DT +44 (0) 20 7493 7778 info@barakatgallery.eu www.barakatgallery.eu

Seoul

58-4, Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea +82 02 730 1949 barakat@barakat.kr www.barakat.kr

Los Angeles 941 N La Cienega Blvd Los Angeles CA 90069 +1 310 859 8408 contact@barakatgallery.com www.barakatgallery.com