WHO's IN FASHION issue 53
An FBI Fashion College magazine
It’s a Man’s world Why men dominate the design industry
MB FW A 2015 Exclusive backstage coverage and news
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Inside
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What’s in Fashion MBFWA Cara Delevingne It’s a Man’s World A Charitable Exchange IN FASHION Designer Profile Students in Fashion
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on the cover Photography BY Lauren Von Trapp Styling BY Brianna O’Brien
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OWNER Selena Mazuran EDITOR Alexandra Hine ART DIRECTION Kristyn Jenkins Le Group Creative, legroupdesign@gmail.com CONTRIBUTORS Katie Kuo, Brianna O’Brien, Courtney Viarella, Rebeka Timar, Celine Kaltoum, Josephine Huynh, Hannah Meads, Rita Sadik, Aaron Gill, Renee Vascotto, Alana Kisner, Nicole Oraha, Nahla Amin, Diana Morris, and Mahsa Sharifi. FBI FASHION COLLEGE ADDRESS 181 Glebe Point Road, Glebe NSW 2037 PHONE (02) 9566 2020
WEBSITE fbifashioncollege.com.au Facebook FBI Fashion College Twitter http://twitter.com/FBIFashionColl INSTAGRAM @fbifashioncollege ABN 53 117 217 517 Who’s in Fashion is registered in Australia. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without written permission. © 2015 Who’s in Fashion disclaims any liability for costs, damages and loss due to this publication.
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Inside
Eds Letter
CONTRIBUTORS
BRIANNA OBRIEN FBI Student Brianna is a Freelance Stylist and Fashion Consultant whose work has been published internationally. Brianna styled ‘Blush Hour’ on page 28, incorporating pieces designed by fellow student Lisa Kostecki.
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ate 2014 marked a momentous 20 years of operation for FBI, culminating in a celebration at the FBI Parade and Graduation. We were lucky enough to have Carla Zampatti – someone who epitomises longevity in a dynamic and everchanging industry – as our special guest for the evening. The prescribed theme for the design graduate collections was Liberty. This magazine gives students the freedom to hone their skills and find their creative voices. Another institution of the fashion industry recently celebrated 20 years. Turn to page 6 for our coverage of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia. The introduction of the FBI Styling Studio on the premises has provided students with an amazing creative space. Our playful fashion editorial
‘Pop Art’ is the result of a two day Styling Workshop held in the studio. A big thank you to all involved in this issue - not only the students whose work is printed on these pages, but the industry partners who have mentored through college appearances, hosting a company visit and providing workplace training and job opportunities. Turn to page 40 for a look at the most recent student placements. Over the past 20 years an incredible number of students have entered the doors to climb the stairs of our terrace building and continued to climb higher towards their dream careers. Who’s In Fashion is but an indication of what FBI students and graduates are achieving in this great industry of ours.
JOSEPHINE HUYNH Recent FBI Graduate Josie is a creative writer based in Canberra. She penned ‘It’s a Mans World’ on Page 10.
CELINE KALTOUM Celine is studying Fashion Business at FBI whilst also completing a Media degree at university. A published writer and trend reporter, she wrote ‘Knot out of Fashion’ on page 9.
InsPIRE
what’s in fashion The FBI Fashion College staff live and breathe fashion. They pinpoint their picks for the season’s hottest trends, products and people.
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1. Flared fashion 2. Zimmermann Fall RTW 2015 at NYFW 3. Celine shades 4. Leandra Medine of Man Repeller 5. Plum pouts 6. Lack of Color Montana Hat 7. ELLERY silhouettes
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In FASHION
Let’s get physical -
MBFWA In delegate relations for IMG, REBEKA TIMAR was perfectly positioned to report on fashions biggest week.
In FASHION
Left: Romance Was Born. Below: Manning Cartell. Opposite: Toni Maticevski
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odel comebacks, empty swimming pools, tennis courts and angry residents – this is Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia celebrating its 20th year. Hoards of bloggers buzzed around snapping models and fashion’s elite as they sauntered through Carriageworks to get their fashion fix. Toni Maticevski went metallic mad with his highly anticipated collection. He did not disappoint with his feminine silhouettes boldly mixed with dropped hems and an intergalactic edge. Michael Lo Sordo also told a romantic story through his delicate fabrics, playful pleating and - for anyone brave enough to #freethenipple - sheer, flowing frocks. Romance Was Born paid homage to Linda Jackson’s label Bush Couture which sadly folded in 1991. Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales ‘Cooee Couture’ was inspired by the Australian landscape. Models waltzed down the corridors of The Art Gallery of NSW channeling waratahs, cockatoos, eucalyptus trees and bushfire remnants. Long limbs were adorned in Dinosaur Design bangles and even Ned Kelly was present on the runway sporting a gumnut-covered poncho and copper cigarette trousers. Mark Vassalo was kept busy weaving his styling magic at several shows. One of the most talked about was restaurateur Maurice Terzini and his partner Lucy Hinckfuss’ label Ten Pieces. Vassalo was
responsible for emptying Sydney’s iconic Bondi Icebergs swimming pool, creating a space for models to walk through, delivering a unisex collection that was a monochromatic feast for the eyes. Manning Cartell celebrated their 10th year in the industry with party-ready micro minis, splashes of neon, girly embellishments and psychedelic prints. This collection was a highlight and many pieces found themselves filed under ‘birthday outfit options’. Like many great celebrations, MBFWA’s 20th year went off with a bang. Audiences were treated to 70’s revival, bare shoulders, modern prints, loose feminine frocks and plenty of bling. And like all great parties it would not have been the success it was without the help of volunteers and for this we should all raise a glass. Here’s to the next 20.
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In FASHION
MODEL OF THE MOMENT
Cara Delevingne Fierce, Fearless and Famous. KATIE KUO profiles model of the moment Cara Delevingne.
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ondon born, internationally successful model, singer and actress Cara Delevingne has been compared to the likes of Kate Moss. Coincidentally they were both scouted by the same person - Sarah Doukas. She is Topshop’s newest sweetheart and has starred in campaigns for Burberry, Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent, H&M, DKNY and Victoria’s Secret. Delevingne will be starring in the up and coming film Paper Towns based on the book by author John Green of The Fault in Our Stars fame.
“Be confident. Even if you don’t have any confidence, pretend you have.” There is something about her that sets her apart with her naturally intense brows and refreshingly down-to-earth, carefree spirit. Delevingne’s distinct features made the power brows an international trend in the fashion world. The influence of social media has guaranteed the success of the young English model. With 1.8 million followers on Facebook and 10.3 million followers on Instagram, there is no denying she has a massive influence on fans. The personal un-edited images of her life creates the raw and real person that just makes her so endearing. Not to mention her likeable, quirky, charismatic personality. Her mature eagle eyes and profound cheekbones have set off a spark in the fashion world. Delevingne has graced the runway for brands such as Chanel, Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta, Burberry, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Stella McCartney. Her face has been on the cover of internationally circulated magazines such as Vogue, Russh, W, style.com, Glamour, i-D, LOVE and inStyle. Since 2009, Delevingne’s career has sky rocketed from an incredibly young age, aided by her energy and ambition. Her off-beat, off camera style contrasts with the model’s professionalism and presence in work mode. Making a career and exposing her behind the scenes life, Cara Delevingne is a chameleon in the fashion world, breaking past the boundaries.
In STYLE
Knot out of Fashion CELINE KALTOUM has this winter’s biggest trend all wrapped up.
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ug up in one of the most prominent trends this season - knits. Soft wools are emerging in all shapes and sizes. With different necklines, styles and textures. The knitwear trend is set to be huge. Winter colours of black, dove grey, camel, khaki and cream ensure all skin tones are suited. Taking the stage for the Stella McCartney and Céline Fall
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2015 collections, it was a continuous procession of knitwear threading down the runway. Whether in the form of an oversized knit dress or chunky turtleneck sweater, knits add volume to any outfit. They can be a statement piece in an outfit or can be effortlessly paired with a flat sole or heel. Snuggle up in a knit this season, and look stylish while weathering the cold.
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Raf Simons for Dior.
InDUSTRY
It’s a
man’s world It is a universal fact that fashion is mainly a woman’s commodity. Fashion is massproduced for women, inspired by women and worshipped by women. So why is it that history paints a skewed picture of industry success towards male designers? JOSEPHINE HUYNH explores why women struggle to get noticed in the competitive industry of high fashion.
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lthough the industry and its trends have evolved, come and gone, returned and reinvented, one element has stayed the same. One in which women throughout time have willingly played ignorant all in the name of fashion – it’s a male-dominated world.
Alexander Wang.
The male dominance of the fashion industry is widely acknowledged yet rather strange, given the fact that dressing up is overwhelmingly a female pursuit. Fashion schools around the world are inundated with female applicants and see the majority of its graduate classes, year after year, be of female gender. The list of creative directors heading the most
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InDUSTRY Below: Familiar face Karl Lagerfeld is the Creative Director and Head Designer for both Chanel and Fendi, as well as designing an eponymous label.
“The male dominance of the fashion industry is widely acknowledged yet rather strange, given the fact that dressing up is overwhelmingly a female pursuit.”
iconic top luxury fashion houses is made up of almost all men, from Hedi Slimane at Yves Saint Laurent, Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, Raf Simons at Christian Dior, and Alexander Wang at Balenciaga just to name a few. But it doesn’t stop there, the industry’s fast-rising bright young things are mostly male. The New York Times noted in 2005 that of the 37 prizes The Council of Fashion Designers of America had awarded to young designers since 1986, 29 awards went to men and only eight to women. It also noted that 20 of those men were gay, and while male designers have taken home the CDFA
Womenswear Award 13 out of 18 years, a woman has never won the Menswear Award. It has been implied by many designers and in modern day media, that the success of a fashion designer is dependant on the favouritism of magazine editors – a field dominated by women. I need not say further than Anna Wintour who has become an exaggerated personality painting the role of an editor being finicky, critical and subjective – like royalty to emerging designers. This small yet powerful group of women have been accused of favouring men when it
comes to what their glossy pages reflect. There’s no denying that designers such as Diane von Furstenburg, Vera Wang, Vivienne Westwood and Donna Karan have all built solid names for themselves and while it is no secret that magazines wield significant
InDUSTRY power within the industry, are women being excluded? There were always high-profile women designers in the 20th century like Coco Chanel and Mary Quant, but even Chanel was closely associated with men like Karl Lagerfeld for many decades. Tom Ford once famously said, “I think we are more objective. We don’t come with the baggage of hating certain parts of our bodies.” Designer Michael Vollbracht from Bill Blass went one step further and said, “Women are confused about who they want to be. I believe that male designers have the fantasy level that women do not.” If men put on great shows and are equated with “fantasy”, does that mean women are equated with “practicality”? If so this is problematic. While men are praised for letting their ideas run wild and creating
whimsical couture, regarded with the same admiration as art, ready-to-wear collections by women are often perceived as restrained and lacking impact and element of imagination when in fact they are designing sensibly with major factors in mind – realism, quality and fit. Because who better to know what women want than real women. It could also come down to how women prioritise family life over their career. Having a career and having children are two very hard things to juggle and the high-stress and single-mindedness nature of the industry usually results to women compromising for family reasons. British designer Katherine Hamnet said, “It tends to be gay men who are at the top in design. That’s because they don’t usually have any children at all, it is as easy as that.” And on top of this they also have great insight to what women want. But in March 2012, eight-month pregnant
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Phoebe Philo, mastermind behind Céline, proved that a female designers are able to have the best of both worlds. It’s through the action of designers like Ms Philo that have contributed to igniting momentum back into the stream of female designers, and the industry seeing a younger generation of female visionaries swooping in – women like Sarah Burton taking over the reins from Alexander McQueen, Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney, , Kate Spade and Miuccua Prada. However, with the rise of modern androgynous style and history books educating us on how the power shoulder silhouette of the 80s changed the face of fashion as we know it, it is hard not to ask if we, as women, have sat back and let this happen. Has giving a big tick to dressing to exude equality and embracing man style with open arms ironically resulted to a feminist case of fashion fever?
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InDUSTRY
Sweater Exchange founder Belynda McPherson and ambassador Shanina Shaik.
A Charitable Exchange Hannah Meads unearths the compassionate side of the global fashion industry, blossoming right in our own backyard.
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here’s no denying that consumerism powers the fashion industry, however there is a compassionate side. It may not be as publicised in the media as the latest trends but it is important to recognise the positive and selfless influence of the fashion industry. Throughout the world successful designers and fashion companies have been contributing to causes within our communities. Sweater Exchange is an amazing example established right here in Australia.
decadent knitted designs. The concept of Sweater Exchange came about after Belynda read an article bringing light to the fact that every night across Australia more than 50,000 women are homeless. Confronted by such staggering statistics, Belynda felt she had to do something to help. “We launched the Sweater Exchange in 2011 wanting to fuse philanthropy and fashion in a benevolent way. I wanted to make the initiative more inclusive than most charity projects by having a call-to-action that didn’t involve donating money”.
Sweater Exchange was founded in 2009 and established in 2011 by Belynda & Ben Macpherson. The couple is also the co-founders of Banjo & Matilda, a knitwear brand creating luxury sweaters and
Last year over 4000 sweaters were donated to the Sweater Exchange. In Australia in 2014, for the month of July The Sweater Exchange partnered with Mission Australia who distributed the sweaters to
“Anyone able to afford a sweater would have to have an older one in their cupboard, thus the charity was born.”
thousands of woman and children in need. Audi has also promoted the initiative to their customers and provided drop off points for donations among other support. “The idea of donating your pre-loved sweaters - or literally the clothes off your back - resonated with our brand and also our community at large. Anyone able to afford a new sweater, would have to have an older one in their cupboard, thus the charity was born”. Celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Lara Bingle, Nicole Richie, Miranda Kerr and Elle Macpherson have donated to the exchange and helped promote the initiative. Australian model Shanina Shaik lead the 2014 campaign for the Sweater Exchange. The supermodel was brought up by her single mother and now has an international modelling career. “I didn’t have everything handed to me on a silver platter, I had to work for it. So I’ve always given back when I can because these simple things can help people in big ways”. Founded in Bondi Beach in 2008, Banjo & Matilda had a mission to take the Australian beach-lifestyle to the world—in a sweater. Belynda and Ben started out wanting to create sweaters with supreme quality and integrity. They also wanted to remain accountable for sustainability, longevity, endurance and lovability. Their cashmere sweaters are spun with natural and ethically sourced yarns from goats in the highest mountains of inner Mongolia. With a global following, Banjo & Matilda is stocked in international retailers such as Net-aPorter, Shopbop, Neiman Marcus, David Jones and major department stores in Germany and the Middle East. The brand’s cult status has contributed to the success of the Sweater Exchange which continues to grow worldwide. The industry is blessed to have business women like Belynda, who are able to recognise the needs of others and do something about it. Compassion in the Australian fashion industry is very present and gaining a lot of support. The growing success of the Sweater Exchange is undeniable and will hopefully inspire young designers to find their own way of giving back to the community.
FBI Graduate and Instyle Fashion Market Editor Chloe Hill supports the Sweater Exchange cause.
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POP ART A riot of colour and a clash of prints makes for a whole lot of fun.
Photography by Melinda Cartmer Styling by FBI Styling Workshop Students Creative Direction by Caitlin Stewart Hair and Makeup by FBI Student Mahsa Sharifi Styling by Rita Sadik
Styling by Alana Kisner
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Styling by Nahla Amin
Styling by Aaron Gill
Styling by Renee Vascotto
Styling by Nicole Oraha
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seeing double The mysterious tale of two braided beauties in a monochrome world. Photography by Elisa Mercurio Styling by Diana Morris
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BLUSH HOUR
Candy crush and fairy floss, meet me at the roller disco. Photography by Lauren Von Trapp Styling by Brianna O’Brien Featuring designs by FBI graduate Lisa Kostecki
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In CLASS
FBI Parade and Graduation 2014
In CLASS
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In CLASS
DESIGNER PROFILE
Covara
FBI Student Courtney Viarella has shown her brand Covara at the FBI Parade and Graduation for two years running. She passionately shares with KATIE KUO her inspirations, experience on the runway, challenges as a designer and outlook for the future.
In CLASS
“S
he enjoys feeling dressed up, without being overdressed. She’s got a busy day ahead of her and can’t be held back by her clothes, therefore, comfort and practicality is a high priority.” These are the words which Viarella uses to describe her customer. It’s clear the Covara girl is no conservative, and appreciates dressing up without crossing the line. The name Covara is a derivative of designer Courtney’s full name. It is a representation of herself and what she loves about fashion, but as she states, “It’s not me in its entirety.” As a current double diploma student at FBI Fashion College, Viarella expresses the importance of studying and gaining a thorough understanding of business in the fashion industry. “Business know-how is absolutely essential when wishing to run a successful label,” she says. “The fashion industry is extremely competitive. You need to know how to get your label out there. It is crucial that you are able to read trends, produce viable garments and market it to your audience. Anyone can have a passion for design, but your success is measured by how many people want to buy and wear your garments”. It is becoming increasingly important
FBI student and Covara Designer Courtney Viarella.
and beneficial to have a clear understanding of how the business industry works in every area of fashion. The latest Covara collection presented at the 2014 Parade and Graduation was striking and influential. She went against the grain of the prescribed ‘liberty’ theme, choosing to focus on the life after an individual is stripped of their freedom. The idea of historical insane asylums where patients were both physically and mentally restrained intrigued her. She created a set of caged accessories to accompany the collection and to illustrate the concept of being constrained. Viarella enjoyed the experience of creating her runway looks for
a second year running. “I worked harder to bring my collection to life this time round as I had the time and the know-how of the night. The up and coming fashion designer favours using textured fabrics. “I used a combination of brushed wool suiting, crepe de chin, bouclé, duck cloth and hand knitted merino. Each fabric had a unique surface. The techniques which I enjoy include detailed work. I love top-stitching, as it gives power to the lines and shapes of a garment”. The fashion design world is exciting and full of creativity. However, it comes with challenges, which Viarella shares by expressing
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her experience of improvement and adjustment. “For me, it’s always a challenge to make a cost effective product. I fall in love with beautiful but expensive fabrics. I’ve become quite good with my costing sheets though, because I then have to adjust the sheets sourcing new suppliers and production processes”. So, what’s install for the future of Covara? Courtney is still looking for a niche in the fashion industry. The designer is continuously exploring options and trialling projects. “I am really excited where my passions will lead me,” she says. “I do know whatever happens, Covara will be a brand of functionality and quality in whatever form it takes.”
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In CLASS
studentS IN FASHION
FBI students are some of the most sartorial people in Sydney. Meet some of our students with an eye for style.
LAUREN MORRIS
LUCY LIU
AARON GILL
KIM NGUYEN
What’s your dream Fashion job? I’d love to be a Fashion Blogger. Where do you get inspiration from? I get a lot of inspiration from Parisian and Scandinavian street style. Who’s In Fashion? Kendall Jenner.
Where do you work? Josh Goot What’s your dream Fashion job? Freelance Stylist. Who’s in Fashion? Christine Centenera, hands down.
Where do you work? Provocator. What’s your dream Fashion job? To be an Editorial Stylist or a Creative Director for runway. Who’s In Fashion? Yohji Yamamoto, Alistair Trung, Toni Maticevski and Maurice Terzini.
What’s your dream Fashion job? To become an aspiring and innovative Shoe Designer. Who’s In Fashion? Shoe designer Raphael Young. He has a very defined, dark and architectural approach to his designs.
ALL IN THE DETAILS Students who know how to accessorise
Josephine Angkasa
Imogen Cohen
Andrea Jey
Gabby Neal
InSIGHT
FBI Fashion Inf luencer Brunch F
ollowing on from the popular Fashion Blogger and Fashion Designer Brunches, FBI recently held an event that welcomed influencers across all areas of the industry. The line-up of guests included Editor in Chief of Elle Australia Justine Cullen, past FBI student and Fashion Stylist Jules Sebastian, Model Jesinta Campbell, Fashion Designer Emma Mulholland and co-founders of the successful Stylerunner start-up Julie and Sali Stevanja.
The Q & A style session turned into a dynamic discussion, delving into the factors influencing a changing industry. What advice did these inspirational and successful women have for FBI students? Take every opportunity that comes your way and don’t get fixated on the end goal. Work hard at your current role and perfect it - The rest will follow.
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In PLACE
FBI CAREERS DEPARTMENT The FBI Careers Department liaises with Fashion companies to place students into employment in the Industry. Congratulations to all of the below students who have landed their dream jobs. Kirstie Scott
Administration Assistant
Topshop/Topman
Kate Hunter
Assistant Office Manager
sass & bide
Danica Osland
Bookings Editor
Vogue
Marc O’Donnell
Buying Admin Assistant
The Iconic
Rachel Kingston
Office Manager
Zimmermann
Michelle Smith
Agency Assistant
emg models
Stephanie Audino
Online Assistant
Carla Zampatti
Mark Fitzpatrick
PR & Showroom Assistant
Elise Garland PR
Chloe Dutton
Wardrobe Assistant
Channel 7
Ashleigh Leech
Visual Merchandising Assistant
Gucci
Ellen Jeffrey
Wholesale Coordinator
Jac + Jack
Emmy Loy
Stock Coordinator
Witchery
Diane Lopeti
Design Assistant
Cue
Tegan Hardiman
Assistant Buyer
Ozsale
Mendy Hayasi
Online Assistant
Camilla
Sales Administrator
sass & bide
Stephanie Staudinger Online and Production Manager
Lee Matthews
Laura Maguire
Stock Coordinator
ELLERY
Bianca Lane
Fashion Assistant
Australian Woman’s Weekly
Saharra Mirzarazi
BE IN FASHION
JOIN OUR #FBIFAMILY
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FBI Fashion College Est. 1994
Fashion Business & Fashion Design
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