The Correspondent, May - June 1995

THE

GOTSPOIIIIENT Tbe Official Publication of tbe Foreign Corresþond.ents'Club of Hong Kong

THE FCC RETTIRNS TO SAIGOI{

ft was 2O years ago today...

A home away from home in Macau The write stuff

ín the basement

+I-

THD CORRDSPONIIENT May/June7995

TIIE FOREIGN

.,

CORRESPIOI\IDENTS'

CLUB 2 Lower.Albert Road, Hong KonB Telephone: 521 l5ll Fu:a6A4O92

Stock Horrse

Simon Holberton PGldent Flßt Vice Pffiident Hms Vriens

Sæond Vlce

Pddent-Dorothy

4-

Letters,/I\[otices Lrrnctrlines The Ridder recipe to press ahead; Confìdence emefges at the FCC; Blue skies and air pockets.

Rym

Corepondent Member Govemors Paul Bayneld, Ma¡cus V. Brauchli,

Philippe I€ Core, Diane Stofmont, Hubert Vao Es, Nury Vittachi, Carl Goldstein (Hon), Michael Westlake .tetretary.' Nury Vittachi

Jomallst

Member

a_

Chrbe lVfiilitan: Clube Militar beckons FCC members.

Vìetna.rt. reuísited

Govenoñ

Morifity Assælate Member Govefiiors

Stuart wolf€ndale, Frâncis

ao-

P¡ofæslonal C¡mñltt€€ Conuettor: H^ßVIiens

a-9-

Membus: PaúBayñeld, Marcus W. Bmuchli, Philippe IÆ

Core,

Fmcis Moriarty Flnance C.ommlttee Trereurer Dotolhy Ryan Simon Holberton, Keith Shakespeare Memb€rshlp C.ommlttæ Conuffior: H\beftVnFs Members : Kevin Waa, Keith Sbakespere

Ttre llzfedia They came. They saw. They recollected.

Athene Choy, Kevin F¿m, Ronald Ling, Keith Shakespeare

Vrork

Cerltr:e

FCC in the fast lane.

20-

l\¡Iedia Matrters The Posf sets up shop in Hong Konþ.

Michael Westlake

Entertalnf,ent Ceñmittee Conænor: Nury Viûachi

2a--

Marcvs W. Bmuchli, Ronald Ling F & I CoDmlttee Conuenor: Pbiltrppe Ir com M e mb e rs : Kevin F4an, Athene Choy

ValI C¡mnltf€€

Ottituaf,;Fred Schokking dies.

Membts:

25.

Hubet Vm Es, Bob Davis Publlcatlom Commltte€

Tribute to Fred Scltokking

Barside

[Banter:

A layman's gu¡de to anniversaries.

Conuenor: PaúBayfreld

Mmbäs: Fwcis Moriarty, Hubert Van Es, Nury Vittachi, Terry Duckhm, Peter Cordingey (Editor) FCC Geneml Mmager:Jethrc IÆe Mahoney

25_

iftren

& hTorr¡

Hits, misses and rnisty memories.

The Correspondent EDITORIAL OFFICE Peter Cordingley, Editor

'

Nicola Nightingale, Asistant Editor 2 lowerAlben Road, Hong KonB :'-ìi'.one: 2521 lSll Fu:2ffi4092

25-

Paul Bayfìeld joins Digital; Hilton hards over

Dick Hughes relics; Money for old ¡ope ; Nice ofle, Ron; New members; SflPS.

'{l

d.: '

,r5 The Foreign Coûespondents'

Club ofHong Kong Opinions expresed by Miters in 'Ir)e Coffespondeu t ile not necessari-ly those of The Foreign Conespondents' Club.

The Cofiespondffif is published monthly by The Foleign Cor€spondents'Club ofHonB Kong.

People

32-

FCC Faces Dangerous M¿ssion

PRODUCTION Desig¡ & Printing Fouch Floo¡, I5B Wellington Street, Central, Honß Kong Tel: 2521 7993Eax:2i21 8366 FST Line

Publlsher- Im Markettng Dtrector DT?

Hæling Katie Mccregor

Artlst-Joey

If,e

Cover photograph by Bob Davis

THE STOCK HOUSE LTD ROOM 1202 ON HONG COMMERCIAL BUILDING 141-147 HENNESSY ROAD ìøANCHAI HONG KONG 'lEL:2866 0887 FAX: 2866 ZZIZ

Mal/.lunc 1995 Tf,D

CORRESPOI|ItEilT

-

To the

minutes, the first of many, many glasses of recl wine bought for me. Chauvinism be damned, I was pretty broke and appreciated every last slug of plonk.

At2.3O in the morning, I was gently stopped from slugging some uncouth lout who made disparaging comments about Canada, my adopted and much-loved country. Yet another glass

editor

of tinto in hand, I happily watched a cockroach reel to its demise in the wake of some sort of spray. You will be happy to know I have seen far bigger cockroaches in my time.

At 9am llaad a splitting headache

Memories of '93

while battling the end of some typhoon or other. My temples will never forget you.

'We

in

Just picked up The Correspondent at oLtt National Press Club here in Ottawa, and the boozing/brawling pic-

tures brought back fond memories. In November 1993 I travelled to Tianiin, quite alone and filled with trepidation.

On my way home I stopped in Hong Kong and irnmediately called in at the FCC, begging for a guest membership.

Basking

in the sound of

the

English language, I had, within three

Canada's capital are not

allowed to have fun any more. Ottawa is politically coffect and we forty-andfifry somethings furtively smoke and drink in our own club, hoping no one will find out. If any of you ever tlrrn Lrp in Ottawa, please look me up at the

Canon

It's Simon Holbeche Re. the "Tricþ Shot" picture in the April issue on the old Suthedand House pool room, the chap in white shìrt and light-coloured pants propped up against the window (centre) is Simon Holbeche, son of Mike. I last saw him at Mike's funeral and he was working in Securityfor House of Fraser in London. Les Leston, for it is undoubtedly him "perched on the tip of his cue", was also at the funeral.

It could be Mike Foote in glasses sitting at the table in the bar area, and the dark-haired lady sitting next to him (in profile) might very well be Connie Crawley, although it does not look like John standing in white beside her.

Someone probably knows.

' t,

,-

\

Thanks to your photo of the Bryans in the March issue, I was able

to

re-establish contact

with

NPC. Can't guarantee a migraine's worth of wine, but I can ante up at

Thank you.

least a treer or two.

Maggie Negodaeff

Linda Seaward (formerþ Leo Burnett HK)

Ottawa

Los Angeles

Ken.

Extrao r dinary Gene r:al Meeting shall be prominentlyposted and hel she shall be denied use of all facilities

Few membens attended the recent EGM, perhaps because of the very good reason that, basicall¡ both

of the club.

E>rceptions to these rules may be made for members who, being tem-

ttre topic and the outcome affect only a small section of the membership.

There are, as in many organisations, a few people who use the system to their own advantage, father than that of the organisation itself.

This manipulation is far from illegal, but it can be unfair. The meeting on Monday, March 27, was called in order to deal with this situation.

Article 55 of theArticles ofAsso ciation now reads: a) 11 an account is not settled in fr¡ll by the last day of the month in which the statement is received,

porarily absent from Hong Kong when the account is rendered, shall have made satisfactory affangements

with the general manager or the tfeasuref to cover this circuÍlstance. c) Âny member who is posted on two successive occasions oron atotal of three occasions within any twelve-

month period will be required to arrange di¡ect debit (autopay) authodsation for settlement of future accounts.

the member shall be denied use of

the credit facilities of the club until such settlement is received. b) If an account remains unpaid by the 1 5th day of the month following the month in which the statement was received, then the member's name

l)

That's how it reads in the Articles.

What ít all now means is this, using the month ofJuty as an example.

FromJuty 1 toJuly 31, tr¿nsactions

are recorded on a member's account.

2) The July account is totalled and presented byAugust 10. This must

Capturing the Thr¡ll of the Game

be settled by the end of August.

Failure to do this means the account will be suspended, although the memberwill be able to use the facilities on purchase of pre-paid coupons.

3) If theJuly account remains unpaid byAugr¡st 10, the memberwill be posted and use of the facilities denied. Being posted means that

The ¡hrill ancl excitement of spectator sport transcelds l olclcls ancl is an excellent wav for people to exp[ess the unjorr of c]ifieren¡ countries lt is

impoltant to captLrre the thlill in photographs for the u'clrld to shaLe And plofessiorral ¡ll.rotographers fiom all ovel the u'olld relv on Cano¡ SLR camcras to givc therr theiL best shots becLrase fol thenr nclr a single

the member's name is placed on a list displayed in the main bar; the account is frozen; payment is im-

opportunitl can bc lrrssed SLrccessfirl photoglapl.rcls usc Canor.r cameras ancl the EF lenses

mediately due on all outstanding debt. In this case, this means the August account as well as the July one. ,An administrative charge of $too is automatically applied to the account. To be posted will be, at the veryleast, an inconvenience.

So frilI attention must be given to ttreprompt settlementofclub accounts.

Cashflowis amostimportantaspectin the economics of this business.

-Jethro

Ire

Canon EOS svstenl

-

uot just becaLrse of its lvorld iastest autclfocus

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iLrnction, not just becaLrse ol Canon's lcnownecl Leljabilitr', brL¡ also because

ol thc qLralitt' of the inrages thev can ploducc with the Canon svstenr, sharing Lrnfr.rrgcttabf e nl(rlÌrcn[s Canon is alwavs thclc rvhcre the excitcment is Thc EOS Svstcm : 'l'hc ansrvcr to the profcsslonal's ncccls,

-

Enquiry Hotline: 2590 9666

MahoneY

Canon Hongkong Tfading Co., Ltd.

'lÉfri5f iÊÈfr

10/F., fVirror Tower, 61 Mody Road, Tsimshatsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong.

JOS Consume¡ Electlon¡cs

Tel :2739 O8O2

T-

The Ridder recipe to press ahead

Confidence emerges

atthe FCC

Àzledia sltpfefno

lForr;z Ridder is upbeat al>out ttre l>ranze laesz uzodd & ne!\zspaper publistring l>ut as, l\zlictrael l\zIaclse¡'' reports, the doul>ters in ttre tra.de can see pitfalls-

ony Ridder, who is one half of media conglomerate KnightRidder and its chief executive, spoke to an FCC lunch about "what's going on in the newspaper business in the US".

His message was simple: that it's changing fast since the decline of the

l970s and the situation now is "very encouraging".

Newspaper consumption is increasing, particulady on Sundays, and,

while there might still be problems, the newspapers are fighting back.

On top of the established competition, there is now a growing diversity, particularly the rise of freesheets

or shoppers. There is also the "very distressing trend, what I would call the alienatioîfactof" which as aresult has had Knight-Ridder "working hard in public joumalism".

Ridder, whilehe mighthave been journalist when he began his career, is now a maftager, more concerned with the financial bottom line than a

deadlines.

"Electronic classifieds are a big threat to us, " he said when detailing the challenges that the newspaper indus trywill have to face. Not that they are the only one, but, with some 40 per

cent of advertising revenue coming from classifieds, they probably lead the field.

Add to that aggressive prictng- "a major problem," said Ridder - and

newsprint costing some 40 per cent more this yeat than last, and the outlook might seem Yery gloomy. This,

not the Ridderview. "Ink on newsprint will be around for a long time" he opinedbefore explainingwhy

though,

is

the death knell of print joumalism should not be sounded iust yet.

The trouble was that while his outline of the future clearþ included

keeping print joumalism alive, some of, his audience hard lingering .doubts about whether it would be alle and

the principle of

kicking and about the long-term chances of newspapers as anything

asked about foreign news. Encouragingly, Ridder said twice that they were

other than Sunday novelties.

But, said Ridder, newspapers are defending themselves with 1,500 papers "finally getting our act together for a national advertiser." This, he said, was "stafting to have a positive impact".

Tlae Søntose

Mercury, one of the

group's US papers, is also developing an on-line seryice which means that

it could be extended.

"We are looking at otherways,

he said.

Steve Strasser from Neusut e ek then

not cutting back on foreign news but was uncertain as to

exactþhowmany

bureauxtherewere. He didknow, however that the Miørni Herøld, Strasser's former paper, had three., Andrew Lynch then asked a multiple question which hit several nails on

their heads.

Compuserve or E-Mail. "However peo-

Ridder gave the impression of being just a tad uncomfortablewith this.

It must for a newspaper proprietor be a tather unusual experience to haye

plewantit, we will deliver" said Ridder adding a little later that this "will allow

journalists grill you and not be able to sack them or spike their copy.

your text will come to you via flax,

with

Still he gave a competent, if

our readers".

And there is more to come. Destination Florida is another Knight-Ridder seryice which he said "will not only provide information butwill allowbook-

hesistant, defence of his position. He

us to

maintain direct relationships

ing". KnighcRidder has also invested in a company called Netscape which "will allow newspapers to get back in a serious way to real estate advertising".

There are various models of jour-

nalism, usually

of a suitably heroic

mode, butthe journalist

as travelagent or salesman?

Not surprisingly, this new modus operandi, which poses a great maîy challenges to working journalists and their professional ethics, came up in the questions.

In a lengthy answer to the first question, which came from Fred Fredericks, Ridder's defence was simple to the pointwhere it sounded accidental. "Why not while we're doing this make some money in the transaction business?" he said. Ominously, a few moments later he conceded that

didn't think that newsprintprices were moving papers electronic ally and any-

way "newspapers feel incomplete if they ate not delivering it electronically".

As for the conflict of interest in reporting something and doing a related transaction, well, theywere handled seperately. " Wewould reallyhope thaÍ tlrat would not be an issue. The newsrooms ate tealTy sensitive," said

Ridder whose tone hinted that he wished theyweren't.

We know that. The question is, are the proprietors?

Hans Vriens asked

a

ust a week aflter Stat Trek's Patrick Stewart

"

basic but good

question about the new technology thatwill move n€wspapers out ofprint and into some brave new wodd.

Here Ridder was on safer ground though even he really didnt know because "the flat panel technology is a problem . . . It's very exciting but a long way off." rVhich maybe is Eil-ia relief.

he said. Take life expectancy: "In India in l9O5 av-

had been beamed down to Hong Kong TV viewers,

engell-fe expectancy was 23 y ears. By 197 8

it

seemed he was addressing alunch at the For-

itwas 41.

In Korea in 1927 the average Ïfe expectancywas 38.

By 1987 it was 50 years."

This longevity produces a

eign Correspondents' Club. Even club vice-presi-

dent Hans Vriens' little

growing storehouse of

boy had noticed his presence among us.

knowledge and experience

and the possibility to increase productivity,

But this prime example of tonsorial wasteland was not

Mobius argued.

The key is this: "There

fugitive from the Starship Enterprise but a consummate salesman and, it tumed out, an FCC member from the Sutherland House days. The.final frontier Dr Mark Mobius is boldly crossing is that of emerging markets; his vessel is Templeton, the fund manage-

So, Mobius explained, that small piece of the wofld's GDP pie that emerging markets produce is going to

ment group with US $50 billion at

become a big one.

its disposal.

Now the Mobius vision: "'W'e're living in probably the most glorious period of mankind's history because for the first time we have more food for more people than ever before."

A seasoned Asia watcher, he observed: "When I first went to lakarta after Sukarno was overthrown, people were begging on the streets for food. You don't see that any more.

'When I first went to Japan in the Sixties, I felt very comfortable: the people were my size. I could eyen look down on them. Now, I harre to look up."

The Templeton tale of investing in

a

With the aid of slides and a slick delivery, Mobius told us how to stop worrying and to learn to love emerging markets, even if you got soaked by the Mexican\Jl'ave occasionally.

First the figures. According to Mobius, 86 per cent of the wodd's population is in emerging markets; 76

per cent of the wodd's land area is in emerging markets; but only 22 per centof the wodd's GDPis in emerging markets. Then a definition: "Emerging markets . . . include all of Asia except Japan, Australia and NewZealand. They include all ofAfrica and Latin America.

When the first [Templeton emerging marketsl fund was listed on the New York stock exchange in 1987, eastern Europe was not even a figment of our imagination in terms of investing."

RecentlyTempleton opened an offtce in Moscow.

are three elements to

35 emerging market countries is one

of growth.

"'W'e have gone from

US$100 million in the first tund in 1987 to US$7 billion spread across 23 tunds."

Fears about the harm to the wodd of growing populations are misplaced,

power and if you have one of them you can get the other two: hteracy or education or technology [well, that's three in onel; military power; and money."

Asif to emphasisetheTrekiness of the whole emerging markets experience, it is teleyision that has become the saviour, economically and politically, he said. The idiot box is bringing hope as well as Bayutatclt to the oppressed of the wodd: they are seeing a different lifestyle, Mobius said. "We want higher standards of living and we want it now," goes the cry. And the leaders of these politically moribund nations? "They realise deep down in their hearts that socialism and communism have failed and they are now grasping for something: market econo mies. And in order to have a market economy you need a capital market,"

Mobius said.

And one last blast of optimism: "People say [that forl emerging markets the parfy's over. It's just begun."

But feadefs should be warned: inYestment advisers can be beamed down as well as up.

-Andrewlynch May/Jtne7995

THE CORRXSpOilt¡DItT

re

-T-ffi

C¡rH,rv Pnclnc

Blue skies afid atr pockets

Swire Group

FLY TO EUROPE AND DRTVE A\Ñ/AY A VOLVO Cathay Pacific now offers the only direcr flights between

Hong Kong and Stockholm, one of Europe's leading business centres and most beautiful cities. We fly three times a week to the Swedish capitaI and to celebrate, we're

giving away a smorgasbord * of Swedish prizes.

R-od Eddingtorr e><presses cautiolrs optirnisrn about the future of Hong I(ong as Asia's regional anria-tion tl-rb. Andresz l-¡rnch rel?orts-

GRAND PRIZE - A LI-TXURY VOLVO 960 woRTHOVERHK$500,000!! j Drive away rhis stylish, state-of-the art vehicle from the wo¡ld famous Swedish car manufacture¡.

\Y/ W

hen Rod Eddingronaddressed u cluD luncn onHong Á.ong's

future as the region's aYiation hub, there seemed to be nothing friendly about the skies he and Cathay Pacific Airways found themselves flying.

The mainland-based CNAC had just

applied for an operator's certificate, the first step down the road to competing head-on with Cathay in the territory and Hong Kong and Canberra

were involved in a dogfight over Qantas's increasing carrtage of "fifth freedom" travellers - in effect, the way the Australian caffier was able to offer cheap flights to Singapore and Bangkok to fill its planes on its mafuì routes to Europe and Australia.

Eddington, m îagirrg director of Cathay, cautioned agaiîst complacency. competitofs to Hong Kong were legion: from Changi in Singapore; from Kansai, Japan; and from

Cathay's trumpet, the use of KaiTakby Cathay Paci-fic as its global operational hub has benefited the the teffitory.

Buttherewere threats, he said. An

economic downturn, particulady in China, was the principle one. Then there was airport congestion, rising costs in a fiercely competitive business and diversions to other airports.

On the bright side, rapidly rising incomes have stimulated an enormous

demand

for air travel. Last year,

Eddington said. "Others say Singapore

is working on fears about 1997 to undermine our pre-eminence.

"I have to say that I take all this with a pinch of salt. Infrastructure's not built in a day. And Shanghai will take decades to create a business infrastructure of the like of that of Hong Kong."'llhile Singapore had the infra-

structure it was inconveniently distant from the mainland, had a relatively high tax regim€, and an intru-

expensiYe

.

tunities lie atread," Eddington said.

Hong Kong was now the wodd's

date it," Eddington said.

fourth busiest international airport

In maintaining its pre-eminence, Hong Kong has had luck on its side, he said. Lucþ to be based at the geographic heart of Asia (the phrase

behind London Heathrow, Frankftrrt and Paris Chades de Gaulle, and the second busiest cargo airport handling about 1.3 milliontonnes ayeaf, wofth about HK$450 billion.

But the most startling prospects existed in China, Eddington continued. "China's got four times the population of the US but it's only got 109 commercial airports, compared with over 5,500 in the US. And as our

land China.

Another advantage was the superb

infrastructure which makes Hong Kong the regional headquarters for something like 700 of the 7,000 multinationals that operate out ofhere.

Being the economic gateway to China, which has lifted Hong Kong from being t}¡le 23rd largest trader in 1978 to the fifth today, has been a major factor. And lastly, to blow

To enter, fly a round trip berween FIong Kong and any of

fromJapan and the Four Dragons, these

will go to those best equipped to anticipate change and accommo-

of course, on the doorstep of main-

For more info¡mation on this CTI offe¡ call 2926 t188.

cent on the previous year.

And even more promisingly, while the lion's share of consumption came

within Asia, an increase of nine per

change and deYelopment pre-emi-

Singapore, Sydney and London, and,

PLUS ALL ENTRANTS WILL RECEIVE HK$289 CREDIT FOR IDD CALLS WITH .ìÊgT, t

London, Manchester, Paris, Rome, Stockholm or Zurich - and you must deparr between March 28 and Jue 30, 1995. Then send one of your boarding passes to us with a completed entry form.

You can pick up an entry form from any Cathay Pacific Hong Kong ticketing office, CityCheck cent¡e or travel âgent now. O¡ have an entry form sent to your fax mgchine. Simply dial 1783 (from your telephone or fax hândset), follow the instructions and enter code 747-60.

Cathay, which, despite relocating various services, would retain Hong Kong

rings a marketing bell): on the flightpaths between Tokyo and

Go furniture shopping in Hong Kong with Sweden's own IKEA.

our eight European cities - Amsterdam, Frankfurt,

cent of the region's population. China, meanwhile, accounted for 40 per cent, and lndia, 35 per cent.

"If one looks at those two countries in particular, which are only just beginning to open up their markets, I thbkwe haveasense of what oppor-

nence

15 WINNERS - EACH RECEIVE AHK$2,OOO

IKEA FURNITURI, GIFT COUPON

But Hong Kong could no longer expect to provide a unique gateway to the mainland. It faced high costs and congestion, and Chek Lap Kok might provide relief but it would be

This put increasing pressure on

and Malaysia.

"In a region of hectic economic

FOR TWO TO STOCKHOLM Jet off to Stockholm and enioy 5 nights complimentary accommodation in a luxury hotel.

sive government.

Eddington said, there were something ltke2TO million people who travelled

only represented six and a lralf per

new airports in South Korea, Thailand

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Dragonair pilots know, only 20 of China's airports have instrument landing systems; oflly 12 canhandleT4Ts; and only 14 atpresent are served by international routes," he explained.

So it was not surprising Hong Kong could expect challengers. "Some say Shanghai's about to overtake us,"

as its home.

Eddington demonstrated the poor returns in the airline business: in 1994 the wodd's airlines made about $US 1 5 .

billion dollars in profit, a return on reYenue of about 1.5 per cent. This year the retum is forecast to be four to

five per cent.

Yet Eddington explained: "Hong Kong's prospects as Asia's leading aviatioî hub do look good. Hectic economic growth across the region points to massive increases in air

traffic."

In response to a question from Philip Bowring, Eddington defended the role of Swire as main shareholder of Cathay, citing the group's loyalty

to Hong Kong and China.

He dismissed Bowring's suggestion that anapaftheidhad existed between cockpit and cabin crew. He cited the strong professional bond that

drew aviators together: "I take the view that if our Australian and English pilots can fly together then anything is possible ."

trE

'You will only .ece¡ve CTI ofHKg289 the fitsr time you cnter thc lucky d¡aw. This credit is non-transferrable and will only bc creditêd to

credits

passenger's CTI accounti non-CTI us€rs should give creditcard derails on entry form so CTI can opên your ¡ccounr. CTI c¡edis, HK$289, is valid until Dec Jl,95.

The lucky draw will be made onJuly 14, f995. ì?innerswill be contacr€d personally and results publisbed in thc SCMI Eastern Exprcss, Sing Pao

ánd MinB Pâo on July 30, 1995. For further details and competition regulations please call our CX Fax 1783, follow thc inst¡uctions and cnter codê74?-60. +À smorgasbord is a fâvou.¡re Swcd¡sh meal consisting of many different dishes including fish, meât ánd picklcs.

-T--

ompared with the cosy

Clube Milítar beckons FCC members

informality of the FCC, initial impressions of Macau's newly reopened Clube Militar are reminiscent of a childhood visit to Great Aunt Florence. It seems only the very best manners and restrained voices will be tolerated . Heave n forbid that a shoe might scuff the carpet or a posterior dent a cushion.

N4emlrers of the FCC's Bo:rrcl of Goverlaors \\-ere preserat in l{l¡.c-.rr-r f-or the opening of the nes.l)- returl>ishecl Clul>e lylilitltr. xr.hich has reciproc-.rl ri¡lhts sr-ith oLrrs. f Tnf'ortunatelr-. there's t>ut. ¿rs Elelinda C¿uni

c<>mntc>cllrtic)rl. llisc<>r-erecl- thc m;rkqs u1> f<>r that.

But the impression is unfair. After all, the Clube originated as amllitary mess, not a gossip market for thirsty hacks. Eyen now that its membership is 90 per cent civilian, how could it fail rc exude an air of refinement, being housed in an imposing, 125-

year-old mansion in the heart of Macau?Just walking up the steps and through the magnificent portico feels like an event in itself.

Its air of formality, however, is not helped by the immaculate paintwork and crisp upholstery that bear testament to just how recently the Clube finished

a HK$20 million dollar renovation at the hands of the same team that oYerhauled the Bella Vista.

Non-members are al-

might have decided the problem lies largelywith the rather harsh recessed lighting. Softer tones ormore side lamps might have better complemented the

white walls and the gleaming wooden floors.

By the arrival of the third drink, however, you couldwell be toasting the room's simplicity and relishing a sense of having escaped Hong Kong's clutter and chrome syndrome.

The sense of cool, clean spaciousness is apparent also in the dining room, with its

polished wooden tables and

starched linen tablecloths. Its Tbe dining undeniable elegance is a little diminished by the acoustics, which in white wine sauce" and "grilled wild amplify the clatter of cutlery but your boar medallion". meal should provide ample distracPrices are reasonable, even for tion from that.

Macau and particulady consideringyou are eating in a dining room with a pillar. Starters range from $25 to $75 and main courses average between $80 and $150. The club's room

wine list

lowed only in the restaurant, but FCC members are

welcome to use all its facilities. It's a disappointment to learn that despite the building's spaciousness,

j

choices ofport alone, rang-

ing from a bottle of '85 vintage

($1,200) to a glass of

pensations.

The basement offers a

year-old Taylor ($40).

Sampling the port Reþresentatiues of tlre

v/ith pool table, a chil-

clubs

might have owned (sadly minus any bottles).

of home cooking prepared by

mahjong den and a large function space the club optimistically terms a "ball room", but which better resem-

Sandelman 1O-

will

provide some distraction from the ubiquitous, frenetic, piped guitar music which becomes noticeably intrusive ilr the restaurant. There is only so much string twanging one can take over a glass of

FCC members might fìnd the ir fìrst

sional; a touch provided by one of

20-year-old Niepoort.

The staff, who, despite occasionally appearing a little dazed by their new duties, proved unfailingly charm-

port of call in the "executive bar" on the ground floor; a modest anteroom situated offthelarge "tearoom" full of sofas and armchairs standing to

Portugal's leading chefs, Fialmo, flown out specially to command the Clube

Macanese ignore their formal surround-

bles the sort of cellar Howard Hughes

attention.

The first drink is needed to dispel

the sensation that Aunt Florence's home has become the waiting room of some exclusive clinic, complete with piped music. By the second round you /.lune 1995

tr.Do

"It's very Portuguese," the F&B maîager Miguel Carvalho said at the end of my meal, "I hope you liked it."

I did, very much, because the menu is so Portuguese. The dishes had awholesome flavour that suggested the best

dren's room with computer games, a

CORRDSPOIU¡ENT Nlur

what you would

there is no accommodation. But there are comsnug "pub" bar complete

Tf,E

is

expect from one ofthe enclave's oldest establishments, with an impressive choice of Douro, Alentejo and Baraudi wines to meet all budgets. There are 15

a

profes-

Militar's kitchens.

Macanese specialties such as African chicken, gadic prawns and stewed

pigeon are well represented, alongwith some more bizarre choices such as "eel in cold onion sauce" and "US sirloin steak with coffee sauce". Altematives include "octopus invinaigrette", "clams

ing and friendly. 'Watching the with that indornitable Latin enthusiasm is also part of the great charm of the place.

All in all, the Clube Militar can be recommended as an attractive retreat for FCC members, many of whom will find its space and elegance a welcome antidote to Hong Kong. fiff ings to eat and greet

I'lur/lunc 1995 Tf,E C0RAXSPOilDHIT

-T-

followed by the sedate Belly Brigade, Lockhart and Cranbourne, leisurely towing their little trolleys in their

Prologue

They came.

They saw.

They recollected.

On tbe roof of tbe Rex Hotel,

onþ

16 Bao Cbi managed. to get

tbere beþre tlre ligbt faíled Íor tlris Tinx Page orcbestrated.

þboto taken by Bob Daùis.

ifvzo decades after the fall or lil>era"tion of Saigon, depending on )roLrr point of rzielv, a gror-rp of e><\Zietnarrr r\¡ar corfespondents departed frorn ttre FCC l>ar to join a F}a<> Chi (it nneans 'press' in Vietnarrrese) Fleunion of fellovz Fourttr Estaters frorrr around ttre glot>e in Ho Ctri À/Iinl:r CityFigfìting rniddle-age d sprea-ds and rzirzid rnernories frorrr ttreir indirzidual e><periences, sorrìe 40 i<>urnos con\¡erged for ttre reunionNlanlz v\zere e><-FCC rrrernl>ers amd just about all trad partaken of ttre clul>'s trospitality to guest rrrerrrl>ers o\zer the;.ears. iFhis rnol> T\zas joined l>¡. sorrre 2Oo_ a"ccrediteÇ rnernl>ers of ttre vrzodduzide press corps colzerirrg the e\zerìt, a surprising nr-rrnl>er of x.trorrr corzered the prza"r tOO.

Tkte ()c>rcespc>rtcíertt v\zas lucky enougtr to obtain ttre serwices of ttre prolrerbial 'f11.-on-tlre-wrzall' to keep a diary of ttreir antics. iFhe second part <>f ttre correra,ge is szritten b). one of ttre rnagazir:.e' s regula-r colurrrnists, Danze Garcia,, uzlro senred in tkre Arrrericarr a:rrrry during ttre conflict- He joined tkre FCC corrtrnandos at ttre end of the Saigon segrrrent and carries tkre tale onvzards amd upu.ards as tlaelz tearn treads rrorttt to girre tkre rest of ttre country an oppor]tunilry to e><perience ttre group first trand-

Tf,E C0RRXSPOI|IIDIIT MaylJunel995

The reunionwas the brainchild of the Associated Press' London-based correspondent Edie Lederer aided and abetted by ex-FCCer Barry Kramer, now Deputy Foreign Editor of the Wall Street tournøl in New York. Edie was

wakes. 'ùlhat a macho sight!

In

rùØanchai, photographer Bob

Davis somehow ID'ed the cor:rect bus

and hopped aboard, complete with a natty blue sports coat and white shoes, just in case there was ayachtie-type do

in the Seventies andBarry's involvement dated back to a AP correspondent

his days as a U.S. Marine Corps correspondent who returned later as a civilian with the AP. In Hong Kong, Saul

that required his presence. Bob just managed to qualify as a"war" photog-

Lockhart coordinated with the Century Intemational Hotel's CEO Brian Deeson who kicked in with special

in its optimistic wisdom, and with

rapher. In April 1975, Cathay Pacific, perfect timing, sent Bob to Saigon to

photograph for a new promotional campaign. He got in and out before the conquering NorthVietnamese took the city onApril 30. (Now fåose pix of the much changed-Saigon would be interesting to see!)

room discounts for journos and a free hospitality suite thatwas the centre of

the action at the beginning of each evening.

Day 7. - Aprnz4 The itinerary issued by Van Es Tours, a new Hong Kong-based noncompany whose lirst experience at aranging travel was this particular

his

TVreportingfrom Bagh-

dad during the Mother of all Battles in Jamary 1991, but who in a previous incarnation was a (1 966) PutitzerPnzeúinning reporter for the AP; Bernard Kalb, a former prize-winning TV cor-

respondent

for

CBS and

a former

spokesman for the American State Department who made history by quitting on principle; and Richard Pyle formerAPbureau chief in Saigon, now

running the New York bureau. They were travelling with Chris \Vells, the senior vice president of the Washington DC-base d Freedom Forum and the

FF's man in Hong Kong, John Schidlovsþ.

After the obligatory gossip, the for the first of many heated arguments on the political aspect of the war, the catalyst this time stage was set

being former U.S. Secretary of Defense Robert S. McNamara's newly published "confessions". Kalb had a copy and intoned liberally from it. It was here that the jokes were put aside and pent up anger surfaced. The discussions

sojourn called for a rendezvous in the 4 p.m. in order to catch an ^t (nothing butthe best transairport bus port from Van Es Tours) lor a7 p.m.

FCC Bar

flight.

knownfor

U

At showtime, three of the quintet s were on hand: the tour's namesake ex I -FCC president ancl ace photographer, Tony Clifton u.titb ex-UPI Hugh Van Es (whose extraordinary b otogra.þlr e r H o ang Van þ photograph of one of the last evacuaCuong. tion helicopters loading up on a Saigon rooftop, perhaps the most popuLast to board was (soon lar arrd famous photos of the war, to be FCC member) Peter adorns the wall of the Fuhrerbunker);

Ray Cranbourne another top-flight combat snapper whose talent these

Everett of the Australian Con-

days has spread to the golfcourse; and

had nothing to do with Viet-

former FCC Veep Saul Lockhart, now an editor but who in that bygone era

nam during the war.

was writer/photographer without paunch, sporting bright red hair and an equally lustrous red beard.

At a moment only known to himself, IfVE gave the signal and off they went, the remaining two to be picked up en route, such was the exact tirning of Van Es Tours. (Van Es was retuflling for the fifth time since he was thrown out bythe conquerers one month after Saigon's fall.) I wasn't a fly-on-the-wall when this intrepid trio went to war in 1966 (Lockhan), l)67 (Cranbourne)

and 1968 San Es), but this 1995 exit

was a scream. Van Es led the troupe down Ice House Street chasing behind his wheeled carry-on case as it made its own way to the bus stop. He was

sulate

in Hong Kong who

The first hitch occurred at check-in. The flight was delayed by

a

couple ofhours

.

But Cathay's PR team came through with permission to while away the time in

the Business Class Lounge.

And just as I was settling down on the wall for a welldeserved flynap, an eruption occurred in the quiet confines of the lounge. Lo and behold, as they supposedly said in the Victorian novels, our quintet met another Saigon-bound quintet. But this second group was detinitely WP. Enter stage left CNN's

famed Peter Arnett, now

Hoang vm Cuong's metnorial t() tlre 2OO *"*ø"r, o¡'tøË þress on botb sídes xabo lost tbeír liues couering tlre Vietnarn Wa.r.

May/fune 7995 THD CoRRXSPoilI¡EIIT

those on assignment. The FCC Tony's (Clifton of Neustueek and Paul [plus wife Aml oT Asia Inc) were on hand.

Ex-FCC President Donald'Wise, whose first war assignment was to coYer

Monty in North Africa during Wodd War II, flew in from London. More former members: Jim Pringle (and wife

Millie) of Tbe Times was in from Beijing, the aforementioned Barry

Kramer (WSD and DaveJansen (ABC

News), both from New York The megamedia types included not only Amett, but TerryAnderson, now more famous for being held hostage in the Middle East; the AP's double Pulitzer Prize-winner Horst Faas now based in Londoq photographerTim Page, probably the most-wounded snapper of the lot; Bill Tuohy; Cail Robinson (who

g ñ

^r-*d,., i

h

On boardfor a morning sail doun tbe Saigon Riuer. (L-R) Ex FCC Presídent

Donald Wise, ubose first job

corresþondent tÚas

in tbe

Western Desert

tbe AP's Horst Faas ønd Australlan

d.s

a u)a.r

in World War II,

journalist

Cctrl Robínson

boldíng forth.

Vi etnam

of the war is either non-existent or

era

well buried. Both the formerVietnam

lancl-

marks: "On

the right was the

U

s I

Army 3rd (I-R) FCC regulars Tony Cffion, Hugb Van Es and Bob Dauis snmple tbe in dayligltt for a clsange. delígbts of Saigon Press Cafe

-

Field Hospital, on the left the

it6th

MP

as vari-

HQ etc etc." In the daylight he was

ous individuals whipped downstairs to the duty free outlets to stock up on booze. (The Van Es group ended up

found to be remarkably accurate. The most noticeable difference was the absence of sandbags.

were only briefly intemrpted

with nine bottles!)

tü(/hen

the flight was finally called, the Dirry Dozen Minus Two looked up to find the rest of the passenge rs had given them wide berth. Obviously, there were no veterans of FCC Zoo Nights or they would have realised the talk as just a good old fashioned FCC discussion.

The late arrival, exacerbated by an hour's wait in immigration to applyfor a secondvisa to go with the visa issued in Hong Kong meant that Van Es Tours missed the inaugural get together. The drive in was marked byVan Es rattling

off, in true tour guide fashion, the fE[

CORRXSP0IÐEIì|I MaylJune 1995

Day 2- April25 It was a Yery groggy group that

staggered individually to the Freedom Forum's discussion in the NewVodd

Hotel, which was packed with 26 panelists and an equal number in the audience. Again, McNamara's tome provoked discussion. But perhaps the most accurate observation was that in the U.S., Vietnam is still a war and Americans are still carrying a load of emotional baggage; while inAsia, Viet-

nam is a country and primarily an econotnic story, and se condarily a refugee one. Here, the emotional baggage

'W'arpress corps andthe new, younger foreign correspondents of today, some

based in Vietnam, emerged from the

all-morning discussions with a new view of the other's experiences and problems. Interestingly, both generations of journalists used the war as a prism in their own way to view Vietnam, but the resultant images were as diverse as the generations themselves.

Discussions and arguments con-

tinued over lunch which was lubricated nicely with locally brewed Heineken. Tired of the high-falutin' talk,Imanaged to alight on the wall to get some rest until there was a great upheaval below and Van Es Tours moved abruptþ to the lobby to while away the rarty afternoon with a cognac or two or three. Luckily the rain ended by earþ evening, allowing Van Es to lead the team back to the Century

for the datly 5 o'clock swill in the hospitality suite

.

Es Tours, this was the first gathering of everyone at the

ForVan 'all call',

a

Bao Chi Reunion, including many of

"incoming". There I was, hanging on one of the poles for dear life like a good fly spy when, I swear half this middle-aged Belly Brigade started to

hit the deck - that is until they realised how dirty it was. And my eyes, all these hac(s kept taking pictures of one another. I was neady blinded for all the flashes going off.

In a flashback to another era, kids in rickety sampans held onto the boat when it moored, shouting for anyone whose eye they could catch for drink cans. Those Bao Chi damn near sunk the sampan with beer cans. The

dinner ended, of course, with the

traditional toast, "To Absent Friends".

The cry went out, "To the Q Bar", an upscale,

thirty-something, )'uppyish-

type establishment on the Caravelle I{otel side of the Municipal Theatre (the old Opera House), located in Lam Son Square. It was popular with the throng ofyoung business people flocking to Saigon these days, as well as up-

market journos, particulady the TV types, specifically the good looking

Australian camerawomen who humped pounds and pounds of electronic gear on their shoulders in order to broadcast aptetLy male face Down Under. (What a reversal!) The crowds at the hot and sweaty bar spilled out on to a small lane, in easy sight of CNN's huge wooden box set in front of the Caravelle where Arnett held

had Sydney's Channel 7 chasing him); Frank Palmos who, during the 1968

court live each night with thousands

Tet offensive in Saigon's sister city

cyclopouse swarming through the

Cholon, survived an ambush that bru-

square below.

tally took the liyes of four journalist

So what did Van Es Tours do? They took one look at the crowds and moved to atinybat, the Pub Concert, literally

of push bikes, motorcycles

colleagues; the AP's man in Bangkok, oldAsia hand Denis Gray; plus a mighty

next door in the same building. A small, half-moon shaped bar with six stools manned and womanned by four bartenders, one of whom Bob Davis

trio from the fairer sex who proved they could coYer a macho war as well as aîy male: the aforementioned Edie Lederer, ABC London correspondent Hilary Brown andJurate Kazackas from New York. Many had not seen each 's other in decades. Most had not been ë h back to Vietnam.

After the ritual swill, which be- Tlre neuly ótþþo¡nted (by Marlboro Girl in tbe Pub came a daily event, was completed in a mere

and

immortalised as the newest Madboro Girl. Led byformer-Sgt Hung, who was Van Es Tours) Concet't.

the boss, ice cold mugs were whipped out ofthe freezer and equally ice cold Heineken was produced. The air con

worked and the price was a fraction of

three hours, the mob lnoved

to the Saigon River and a dinner cnrise

aboard the good "Tourist Ship Restatrant" Ben Ngbe. Our group, on the top deck, port side, was ironically labelled "\ùØar Tour" while a mob a travelling French had a sign labelling them "Peace Tour". The river today is lined with neon signs advertising Saigon's economic prowess- Toshiba, DHL, Compaq, Cadsberg, to name but a few. But a generation ago, the river was a Free Fire Zone and eYeryone present had their tale of adventure which occurred while travelling

in a river patrol boat (PBR) or Mike Boat or Landing Craft or one of the many kinds of small armoured fight-

ing craft. So a simple tourist dinner cruise was a unique experience for this hardened group.

A loud bang unexpectedly echoed across the water followed instantly by a Horst Faas No. 10 bellow,

Dínner cruíse on tlre Saigon Riuer: Part oftbe FCC contíngent (and.friends): Q.efi) Bob Dauis lounges on Hugb Van Es ubile Saul Iockbart looks on and. Peter Euerett þeeks ouet tlre toþ to see ubo.t's hctþþeníng;. (rigbt) Ray Cranbou.rne, James Pringle and uift Millie úitlr Peter Arnett, Terry Anderson and Eclie lederer (standing).

May/ Jlune

1995 TEI

C0RRf,SPOlfIlElfT

T

the in-place next door. Paradise. This tiny hole in the wall became Van Es Tours' local. The former sergeant and the former Bao Chi got on famously.

Day 3 - Aprr726 Gluttons for punishment, that's what those hacks are. They just couldn't get enough of the river so anothef cfuise was organisecl, this one all morning. As a fly, I had to hold on for dear life the entire time. Faas was an eady casualty, somehow managing to get an eyeful of chilli. The bill caused some concern

-

5.2 million Dong

-

and the hacks got very upset when they did their long division and discovered it was the equivalent of U56472.

So much for cruising.

It was back up the old Tu Do Street, now called Dong Khoi, to find some air conditioning that served cold beer, to awaitthe 5 o'clock swillwhich was being held at the Rex's rooftop bar so that a pic could be taken. Now watching these hotshots trying to organise themselves was a sight to behold. Only 16 were eventllallyherd€d together for a special Tim Page pic, taken by Bob Davis who stood on a chair and conducted the session to the ribald comments oftris peers andharsh instructions from Page himself. Sheer chaos. And a good time was had by all.

Van Es Tours decided that alittle peace

and quiet, accompanied by European food, was needed to recharge the bat-

teries in anticipation of the evening al'rcad.

Dinner of course was followed by a modest glass or three of the cold amber fluid in the in the 'local pub'.

The lights of live broadcasting illuminated the CNN box and part of Lam song Square beyond. The mosquito swarm of two-wheeled traffic incessantly buzzed about, much of this effortlessly visible from the barstools of the tiny Pub Concert. Later that night Van Es and Davis discovered the Press Cafe on Le Duan Street, a fine estab-

lishment in an old villa with ice cold beer and cheap prices. Though open to the public, it still has a press atmos-

phere and is decorated in a press theme. Van Es immediately offered to send original pix.

Day 4- Apri727 Somebody had the bright iclea of going to the Cholon market for a bout of picture taking. Van Es wisely slept through the call, but the rest of the hacks fell for it. The afiternoon was

- first to The Revolutionary Museum on Ly Tu Trong where Van Es presented the director with an original print (to replaceabacl copy) of his 1973 pic of the American Army command fuding their flag at the official pull-out ceremony. Then on to the Exhibition House of Aggression rùØar Crimes, an atrocity museum, on Vo Tan. Next door was tIrc Ttuo spent mllseuming

Angles, One War photo exhibition featuring works from three photographers, one who covered the North Vietnamese, another who was with

the VC, and ex-UPI snapper Hoang Van Cuong, who was still living in Saigon and had popped into the Bao Chi Reunion.

Day 5 -April28 The Van Es Tour Tunnel Rats,aLtgtnented by Edie Lederer, Tony Clifton and Dave Jackson, mustered somewhat groggily at 8 a.m. for the drive to Cu Chi and its famous tunnel complex, a part of which is now open to the public. Back in bygone days, this was the home of the American 25th Division. Being close to Saigon, it became a familiar stomping ground for Bao Chi.

The black pajama-clad VC lasses, who of course were not born during the conflict, motioned the team into an

open air strLrctLue to view a video.

"Forget it, we saw it first hand," exclaimed the tourleader. "Which is more

than you did!" chimed in Cranbourne.

There were some protestations but the gids soon gave up. Tours of the tunnels are given by serving military personnel whowere also tooyoung to have taken paÍtit1, the conflict. As a fly, I had no

trouble zipptng through the tunnels.

But the tunnels had to be substantially

widened for the likes of the FCC Tunnel Rats.

Cranbourne, the Laird of Lantau, departed on the afternoon flight to be back in time to collect his weekend tithes. The quintet was a quaftet until Dave Garcia's arival on Sunday. Dinner that evening was in front of the old UPI office at 19 Ngo Duc Ke. Nos. 19 and 13 (the site of the much loved Melody Bar) are now outdoor restau-

rants serving excellent Vietnamese fare. The owner's wife claimed to remember renting to the wire serwice and offered to show everyone around.

Day 6 - /rprilZg A quiet morning, used to su1f throughthe multitude of satellite chan-

nels available in the hotel rooms. It was strange to be watching modern and historical coverage of Vietnam,

the war and the politics, in a Saigon hotel room. HoangVan Cuong, the exUPI photographer invited a group to his home on the outskirts of the city for lunch and to view his personal

þresents an origina.l of Ltis 1973 þíc of tbe Amerícan Anny command furling tlseìr fløg ítt tbe officietl Þull-out ceremofiy to tbe director of tbe Reuolutionary Museutn.

Hugls Van

Es

TBE CoRRXSPoII|IIENT MaylJune 1995

memorial to correspondents, from both sides of the conflict, who lost their lives. "I have 200 names and I think I'm missing some," he said, asking everyone to read the names on the

monument - which prompted a rather macabre lunch where brains were racked for forgotten colleagues who died. The excitement of the city mounted throughout the day as workers added more red andyellowbunting andflags, soldiers, veterans, kids, bands

all practiced throughout the evening

for the big parades on Sunday. The swarm of bikes buzzed louder and louder as whole families piled on the family cyclo for an eveningof buzzing about. The hacks wisely decided to stay out of trouble, but nevertheless managed to hit the Press Cafe, Pub Concert, Q Bar, Apocalypse and the

Tiger Tavern in no particular order.

And then they discovered the Buffalo Blues barwhich stockednot onlyvery cold beer, but Tequila. Live jazz frl-

r q ñ

tered downfromthe upstairs to awellappointed bar. If only it had been discovered eadier.

DayT

-April30

The big day has arived, but only Van Es rousted himself to try and view the parade. The rest, if they

were awake, decided to watch it live on CNN. "Shit, they wouldn't let me past the

Cathedral without a press pass," came the angry call to

Lockhart at 7:30. Exhaus-

r

tion set in with the holi-

I

daymoodand

(L-R) Edíe Lederer, Hugb Van Es, Tony

the intrepid quaftet end

contem.þlate a VC escaþe batcb. Only

up gravitated

Ed.ie

to Van

Clilton, Peter Euerett (back to cømera)

Es'

suitearound5

could baue made it tbrouglr.

Tunnel rats Peter Euerelt þa.uses to

I

contenxþ la.te bís

sunoundíngs.

torestanduse È

tunnels baue been

thewhisþ. Andthen the doorburstin - a size 10 boot followed Levi's, a flowery shirt and a bellow. Garciahad

tourist trade.

up some ol^s

Westerners a.nd. strengthened Tbe FCC's

for

oun Cu Clsi Tunnel

tbe

Rats:

(I-R) Bob Dauis, Ray Cranbourne, Daue Jackson, Edie Iederer, Peter Euerett, Sdul Locklrarl and Hugh Van Es

arriyed.....

Epilogue - one week later And Barry Kramer arrives in the FCC from Hanoi one tine dayfor lunch clutching souvenir T-shirts made by

"VC" guide.

Edie Lederer in the Vietnamese captial.

Been there. Done that. Got the T-shirt!

Onward to the year 2000 and the 25th Anniversary Bao Chi Reunion. sff

Tlse

uidenedfor

r

May /

þte 1995 THE

C0RRf, SPOilITDIIT

Everyone with a bicycle or motorbike within 50 miles of Saigon was there.

oo. Dave

Buffalo Bob, Saul and Peter took see the Citadel, the Imperial City and Hue's version of Beijing's Forbidden City, which was partially destroyed

offto

Traffic was impossible. Nonetheless, we managed to find five brave cyclo drivers willing to brave the crowds and get us to our meal. Dinner was fairly subdued if you consider eve-

Crætcia

during the battle for Hue

-

ryone taking pictures of people taking

picks up this

I J

talltale froryti

I ¿

Vietnam

pictures of people takingpictures low key. All I saw were lots of blue dots.

And I cannot remember the meal.

The guest list was a short Who's Who of wartime journalism: Pulitizer prize winners Peter Amett and Horst Fass; photographers Tim Page and of course our rrery own Hugh Van Es Terry Anderson @etter known these days as ¿i former hostage in the Middle East), Gavin Young and two dozen more, including ex FCC-president

Bob Davie s "BufTalo Bob" for his prowess at the pool table.

Then came the Apocalypse. The bar that is. Actually we destroyed ourselves there until the wee hours of the

morning. Some idiot suggested Tequila

which didn't help matters. Lots of

nd there theywere. The

young Brits and French giving advise on how it is, how itwas and how it will be. Beware - consultantsonthemove . 'tW'e mustered the next moming at 7'.3O for our 9 o' clock flight to Hue and we were in no condition for it.- I

intrepid

Hong Kong commandos. Lying around on the beds in Van Es' suite in the Bong Sen Hotel (the tour guides

was feeling particularþ bad on the flight and notified Lockhart who offered me a ham sandwich. I dulypassed

always get the best rooms) drinking beer and watching a rcplay of peter Arnett "live" in Saigon on CNN. A welcome swig here. A welcome

swig there. And it's off to the roof bar of the Rex Hotel for to Saigon.

a

proper welcome

During the war, the Rex served

an officer's club. I once stole an ashtray

Daue Garcia braues a q)cloþouse.(toþ) Tbe oblígatory

as

(which I still have) from the bar on a bet to prove thatl managed to sneak in (I was a sergeant and it was offlimits for my type) during a brief R&R in Saigon.

The ashtrays are still the same.

A couple of drinks and a forced march through the e Bar (full of forward thhking yuppies and Tim page)

þic ttritlt Uncte Ho.

(I-R) Peter Euerett, Saul Locklrart, Uncle Ho, Huglr Van Es, Daue García and B ob Dauis. (rnidd.le) Tltis tiny sailor is stitting in a samþan made of discarded uing fuel tanks cut ín baIJ(botÍom)

to the tiny Pub Concert next door

I

$

where we met the next Madboro girl.

Cyclos to dinner. The streets were ntl. The celebration of the .libera-

È tion" of Saigon was in full swing.

TEI

CORRESPOIIIIIENT

Ì l 1

I

out and was awakened by our threebounce landing an hour later.

Our tour operator Van Es had ar rangedavanto pick us up and transport us to the infamous (at least during the war) A Shau Valley the next morning.

During the course of

the day, while still nursing our hangovers with Hue's ex-

1969,

The miracle arrived in the form of the lovely Ms Mai who operates a tolrr

company calledDMZTours which we accidentally found

while wandering thestreets.Ittumed

out we required threepermits, plus rnilitaryandminority (Montagnard)

guides. ìfith a

,ò =

S h

t t ofhermagicwanA fl ø andabigsmile, she È monumentalwave

Donald Wise.

Off to the Buffalo Blues Bar to introduce me to the gidwho renamed

h

while Hugh (who covered that bloody battle) and I wandered off looking for a miracle.

managed

it

^

all, even including a

goumet picnic lunch on porcelain plates, yarious drinks and an ice chest, in record time. Though she must have worked most of the night, and early the next moming, she didn't erren squeeze us for extra money!

That evening, while waiting anxiously for Co Mai to inform us whether the trip was on, we met up with Hilary Brown who ralked Van Es into conning all ofus to go

r

to a 'charming floating (on the city's famed Perfume River) res-

taùtarÍ' down the street from our hotel, the Huong Giang, a rather old-fashioned, spread-out with a pleasant veranda ovedooking the same river. (Boy is that river "perfumed" !

Makes

the Fragrant Harbour- wonderfully scented fui comparison.) I warned them that it wasn't a good idea. These

2. 'Fiil ít uþ." A roød

cellentHudabeer,we

special permits to

places are usually tourist traps and in any case the mosquitoes would eat us aliye . But anyone who has had any dealings with Van Es knows that once he gets an idea, there's no convincing him otherwise. Our only consolation was that he was the worst

enter the A Shau be- $ cause of it's proxim- ! ity to Iaos. Van Es a toursdidnothave the Aþortraìt of Lruman peffnits. It was May sufferíng - Bob Dauís

bit. (By the way, rhe food

day. Everyone was

next morning and

ment offices were closed.

Iþitb tbe tuIotber of all

H ango u ers c ontemþl¿tt¿ng boxa lJe got mess!

into tlJis

ù

1. It's back to tlre r¡ce þaddies - tbere's no bigbzaay to Hq.n burger Hill. Døue Garcia

discovered you need

gone and the govem-

ù õ ñ

place

sucked.)

Co Mai called at 7:3O tllle an

hour later,

and. Bob Dauis. síde

petrol station

¿n

tbe A Sbøu Vallqt.

J. Eueryone míssed the þic of Van Es falling on bis burn in ankle-d.eep red mud as be pushed tbe mired uctn. But you can see tbe results.

man who had done his time in the military a generation ago. The road all 77 clicks of it, has gotten worse since 1969. Four hours on rocks gave our kidneys a run for their money.

Buffalo Bob had the hangover to

we wefe on ouf way to the A Shau. Our guide was Nguyen

The ride

Dinh Dich, a knowledgeable

the back seat near comatose

end all hangovers and looked like s#!t.

MaylJune 1995 MaylJune

I

-

he was stfetched out on helped

-

magnificent

- but not before we got stuck in one of the three streams we had to ford. \ù(ze all jumped outto help push with Van Es landing on his butt in the bright red, ankle deep mud.

nearby French eatery called Opera. BB

Back in Hue, we collapsed into showers, only to reunite oYerdinnerand

a couple of bottles of whiskey - due preparution for an eafly morning flight to Hanoi.

The fabled efficiency Van Es Tours 'started to crumble. The van he organised to take us to the airport in Hue didn't appear, but the hotel came to the r€scue. Buffalo Bob

and

I

caught the eady

.s (5

ë

tlJere?

starts.

^t2pmit You can set your watch by it. The others opted for shelter while I humped up the Hill. The rice paddy dikes had deteriorated in the rain, so the return trek to A Luoi was a not-sograceful ballet of slipping and sliding.

The rain let up and off we drove, Tf,E cORRXSPOtfItDIfT MaylJunel995

up the rarrnp into the fast lane

hotel. (A Hilton? Wouldn't thar be ironic!)

'We were particulady amazed at the amount of TV's, stereos and other

electronic colì.sumer goods which were readily available for sale. When I was there a couple years ago, none of those goods were available in such quantities.

The B team arrived at their brand new hotel and it was off to Gustav's and the Opera for drinks before join-

Gustay's was splendid and in tme FCCstyle, accompanied bylots of shouting

surrounding u.talls. Will a real lrotel be buílt

since 1969. The rain.

FCC

ther drinks. The French repast at

tLJe

pfone; the next, rnixing bloody marys.

We managed to affiye at A LLloi, a Montagnard yillage, where we picked up our soldier aîd aBa, Co tribesman who escorted us across the now-scenic rice paddies to the hills and the actual battle zone. But first, a picnic lunch at the local parry HQ - the local party bosses liked the \üild Turkey bourbon we provided for them. After having the obligatorypic takenwith Uncle Ho, we headed out to the boonies.

We trekked through the rice paddies, balancing our middle-aged bodies on the mud dikes, right to the foot of the Hamburger Hill.

One other thing hasn't changed

and I chowed down on a wonderful lunch, laughing as we thought ofwhat the others were eating high in the sþ.

We then discovered a great bat and restaurant called Gustay's (of Eiffel Tower fame) and promptly booked a table for the evening fare.

That afternoon Buffalo Bob and I wandered the city and found the old Hanoi Hilton, the infamous POW camp in the centre of Hanoi where US pilots were held, which is currently being demolished to make way for a real

Metropole Hotel's famous bar for fur-

for urban reneual

him suffer. 'Well, one hour he was

a

Brown and Juarate Kazikas at the

-

All tbat's left nou ís tlse entrance and

House and

ing Edie Lederer, BarС Kramer, Hilary

Hønoi Hílton, tlre infarnous prison dating back to French times no'u being Tbe

demr¡lisbed to ma.ke utay

of Opera

retracing our route to Hue

Relatcing øt Gustau's (of Effel Touter fame), a French resta.urant in Hanoi complete u¿tb

a cabøret singer, just doun tbe street Írom the Oþera.

flight while the others had to wait for the one three hours later.

Van Es Tours failed again. No vehicle to receive us in Hanoi. Van Es Tours booked us into the Army Hotel which

and toasts. The last chapter of this movable feast was writ at the bar downstairs where all of us, heavilyfortified, triedto help the imported French cafe singer with his warbling. At first, our musical endeavours were unappreciated, but onc e again, in true FCC-style,

reality..

turned out to be a ml-Jrt:ary billet from the days of the French occupation.

Little did we realise that we were at the wrong hotel. Even though Van Es Tours

called the ATS Hotel where the others

We did a bit of reconnaissance before the rest arrived and decided it was time to take our destinyout ofVan Es Tours' hands. That led us to Hanoi's

è h

Farewell d.rínks ín tbe bar

of Hanoi's

Metroþole Hotel: Ed.ie Lederer (rígbt) þresents

Jurate Kazackas xaítb a. bracelet uitb Daue Garcia and Peter Euerelt looking on.

ence disk (Webster's Encyclopedia) and tan a search on 'Hitler': Within three minutes, 147 references were fotrnd, sorted and organized for easy viewing - which includes video and audio clips (all the computers are equipped for sound).

The IBM computers, which are

A cocktail reception was held on

provided us with the name and address, it tums out that there is a brand new hotel located around the comer

wfong.

ing of the newly refurbished computer work room, now'known officially as the FCC-IBM International Press May 4 to unveil the facility, and to thank not only IBM, which donated four of the five new computers (the otherwas thanks to Apple), but also to

E3ã

went to when they arived. Van Es Tours was contacted on their arrìval, but their of course representatiye couldn't understand how we got it

Members working on long articles and books should find this most useful. As a test, this author took a single refer-

W'ork Centre.

our "charm" won the day!

The next morning we stumbled onto ouraircraftforHong Kong, home and a dose of

he Club has pulled into the fast lane of the so-calledinformation superhighway with the formal open-

top-of-the-line PCs, have sofilware in-

show our appreciation to Bloomberg, Reuters and AP-Dow Jones, whose financial and news wire terminals are now displayed in the entrance to the

stalled for access to Intemet. Details of, a gateway for members+ use are now being worked out.

mainbar.

service especially for journalists, is provided akeady at no cost, and is a

The WorkCentre, whichhas come a long way since its days as a video library, now has the nucleus of what is hoped will become the best CD-ROM research facility for journalists in Asia.

Thanks to Club memberMike Morrow and his firm Asia CD, there are now some 1OO CD titles on file comprising the contents of a medium-sized public hbrary. The range of the CDs is already wide. They include standard reference

books, periodical archives covering hundreds of publications, art history and architecture, business and science.

NewsNet, a local information handy way to know about many activities occurring in Hong Kong and the region. While it is particulary useful for financial journalists, it has a job file that is always worth looking at. NewsNet is hoping an arrangement can be worked out to get the Government Information Service on line.

Writers who are familiar with Wordperfect will be pleased to know the IBMs already have it installecl (just boot up the machine and click the

'WP' icon with the mouse). We hope

soon to have the latest version of Microsoft llord installed as well. To speed the machines even further, it is planned to double the memory to 16 megabytes, which should serve the Club for some time to come.

The Apple computer is the latest model, and contains a chip enabling it to read disks written in DOS formats.

Another chip that contains a modem will be installed soon. Photographers will be pleased to know that a special program will be available to allow the printing of slide labels (lovers of the visual are also invited to explore the CD-ROM collection). \ùØhile on the subject of printing: members who recall the frustrations of getting a letter printed propedy on the old system will be delighted to

see the results on both the four Lexmark units, also a gift from IBM, as as on the laser printer donated

well

by Apple.

Rules for use of the facility are being developed by the Professional Sub-Committee, which has undertaken the work of bringing the Work

Centre up

to truly

professional

standards. \l:Lr/.lunc

1995

THD CORRf,SPOImEilT

@

The Post sets up shop in Ifong Kong

govenlment is working that are not going to be found by othermedia. They haye cut-rate newsfooms and as few people as they can have. ,{,nd they are by andlarge youngerpeople. They deal

with infomation as a commodity."

Downie's studied, hyper-critical

W'ctsy'tirzgtctyz Pt>s/ editor Len Douznie carrre to Hong I(ong for the opening

of ttre pa-per's t.res/ t>ureau trere- He spoke to Andrewrz I-¡z-rrchournatirts have a lot to thank Richard Nixon for. ìlithout the late President of the United States, who was forced to resign in disgrace, investigative journalism might never

country developments."

Keith Richburg, veteraî of Ma^ Africa bureau nila from 1986-90 and chief from 1991 until the end of last year, will be running that coverage

have taken off in the past 20 years. And

fromHongKong. ThePosfhas 20 orso bureaux around the wodd - quite striking when you consider that the paper did not open its first bureau oYerseas, in London, vntlt 1957 and that it did not begin to establish those foreign bureaux until the nid-Sixties. .W'atergate changed all that, as

y'f

the reputation of the American capital'snewspaper, the Wøshington Post, might never have risen to the elevated status it enjoys today, without the ef-

forts of Bob lüoodward, and Cafl Bernstein.

Bradlee and Bernstein no longer

inhabit the newsroom. Today,

Downie explained: "During the

'W'oodward sti-llwrites investigative reports and books, and the editorial roost

\ùØatergate era, we were still like Avis:

is ruled by executive editor

work harder because we ar€ No. 2'.

'We had the sense there was Ibe Neott York Tirues up there and then we were second because we developed

Len

Downie, 53, a Post man since 1964 and a former London correspondent, who inherited Ben Bradlee's editor's mantle

lnl99l.

Downie coasted into town last

its slogan always was 'We haye to

as a major newspaper only since Ben Bradlee took overthe newsroom. [The

month to open the Post's new bureau.

He also gave an instructive address on Washington politics to a Freedom Forum lunch andpressed the flesh of the colony's movers and shakers, including his old chum from London days,

paperl grew immensely in circulation and adyertising in parallel to Ben's developments in the newsroom."

Chris Patten.

So why has the Posl moved its bureau from Manlla? "We felt that our coverage had been overþ Philippines dominated and the crisis there had ended," Downietold Ihe Coruesþondent. "We needed to be able to focus more on Southeast Asia, and Hong Kong has excellent communications

plus daily circulation, exceeding 1 million on Sundays. It also owns Neutsweek, television stations and, of course, a stake in the International

and transport, in addition to the big story

tn'97."

He expects thePos/'s col/efage to

become more focused on the region.

"The big question is with the rapid development of the region, and now, particulady, China, what will the political evolution be and to what extent

The Washington Post Company is among the top 10 newspaper groups in the United States, with its 800,000-

Herøld. Tribune.

Necessarily, the Post has moved on from those Watergate days. Just as Bradlee no longer oversees that openplan newsroom, Katharine Graham has passed on the publisher's baton to her son Don, who, incidentally, counts his two big decisions since taking over as appointing Meg Greenfield as editorial-page editor and Downie as execu-

tive editor, responsible for the news covefage.

Sl¡hile the castmayhaye changed,

will it be democratic or take other

the script has remained largely the

forms?" Downie said. "We feel that there is avalue forAmerican readers to see regional developments as well as

same. "There have been changes. But they were always built on the base of

TED C0RRESPOIIIIIEI|T MrÐ,{une 1995

what had been built," said Downie.

editor who would reportedly ring

"'W'e're not goiî.g in some different direction. We must still remain the No. 1 political paper in the country and have. But that's not enough. 'SØe have to become more methodical in the way the paper operates: eyerything from how we deal with personnel to how we organise our journalis-

tic coverage."

V/hile competition from the electronic media increases

approach contrasts with the more flamboyant approach of Ben Bradlee, the

news. print prices rise, the Posf is making decisions now about heavy investment in new presses and plant to improve colour and black and white reproduction. "It is our publisher, Don Graham, making a very emphatic statement to our readers - that we think newspapers are going to be around for a long time , even asmore andmore electronic competitors crop up," said Downie.

He confessed as we spoke that he decided to come to Hong Kong rather as

rapidly

as

than attend the American Society of Newspaper Editors' Convention in Texas. "I'm not there and I don't mind not being there because I get kinda depressed attending those conventions. They sit around and wring their hands. But, instead of wringing our hands, we should be out making our newspapers as good as we can."

There areproblems in some of the

big US newspapers, he said. "Some media companies don't necessarily understand that high-qualiry journalism is essential to remaining highly profitable. And I rhink that may be a problem for them in the future." Because of incre asing competition in the

other news media, quality is going to matter in the long run: "The people with the highest quality are going to have the highest profits."

Although he has some respect for televisionnews, overall Downie is scep tical about its depth of coverage compared with newspapers: "There's

a

lot

of stories out there about how the

a

bell in the news conference when the offerings began to bore him.

One difference is administration, which, reluctantly, Downie graYitates to more than his predecessor liked to.

"Parl of accomplishing what I want mealì.s being extraordinarily efficient with people and money. 'Ví'e are very demanding of our people. I have to really push people and I have to be very tough. And I can't say that I enjoy it. I find it necessary. I do it and I don't shrink from it. But it's not always fun.

Len Downie 's passion for impartiality led him to give up reading the editorials for a while, to avoid his sacred facts being influenced by the paper's free comment. It backfired: the leader-writers didn't take it too well, although he meant them no insult. He now reads leaders more often than he used to.

The British press baron, Lord Northcliffe, once noted: "Of all the American newspapers, I would prefer to have won the Wasbington Post,

Obituary

Fred Schokking dies

Current

RHKYC Commo-

dore Tony Scott, himselfanFCCvet-

eran, noted

sailor was cheer-

ongtime club member Fred

of

andneverspokeill

of anyone. Above

as

all he was good

he signed himself

company, lmpoftantwhenyou are cooped up together on a small

F. C. C.

Schokking(ris

first names

being Frederick Christian Cornelius) died suddenly at his home in Amsterdam May 1O. He was 51.

On MondayMay 15, some 60 relatives and friends attended a funeral service for Fred - including the choir from the Engelse Kerk who sang a couple of moving hymns. Fred used

boat for several days."

to sing in the choir, which would

memorable Hong Kong-San Fernando Race and competed regularþ with fellow FCC shipmates in several China Sea races.

probably come

special relationship with US politicians,

right up to the president? No, he said, the president knows his name but

behalf of all friends in Hong Kong and read the tributes that had been

probably not his face.

"Hillary, I know better, which

sent to Amsterdam.

of the members of Congress." Does Downie's position as editor ensure

a

as a

not

Fred came to Hong Kong with

to say necessarily amicably, because she has not liked some of our coverage. I believe sffongly that everybodywe correr

the American National Bank and Trust Co of Chicago and joined the FCC in

is

beefwith us should be able to present it directþ to me and I've met her under those circumstances," Downie who

has

a

admitted with almost a smile.

"I don'tgo to socialevents in Washington unless there's a real purpose for my being there. It does give me a strong sense of responsibility about the decisions we make in the paper.

And I take

t}jLat

very seriously. Some-

times Ifeelveryawed

byit." E@

Andrew Lynch is Assistant Night Editor of the Soutb Cbìna Morning Post.

a

ful, resourceful

surprise to most, he also played the cello and the piano.

FCC absentee member Bob I¿voo flew in from Singapore to attend the service with former FCC stalwarts Mike and Sybil Keats. Bob spoke on

because it reaches the breakfast tables

in

tribute that Fred " as a man ancl a

Fred wielded a moderate pool - vying with Hugh Van Es for the title of " FCC Nethedands Champion" - but was more at home on the water. He sailed with the all-FCC crew aboard 'Scoundrel' in one cue

One ofhis shipmates recalls shar-

ing his bachelor days with Fred, usually in the Philippines. He recalls accompanying him on Fred's numerous business trips to Manila and remembers him as good company and a firm friend. "CX9O3 on Fridays will never be the same without Fred."

He was working as the Adminis-

n the Suthedand House days.

'With his amiable grin and easygoing outlook, he regularþ contributed to the weighty debates at the bottom-left-corner of the main bar

trator of a Dutch Foundation for Handicapped Chldren at the time of

when we moved to Lower Albert Road. Fred put his time as a Board

can testi$r, Fredwas always readyto order a glass and enjoy the company of old triends, usually while planning

1979

member and served the club

as

Treas-

urer in 198687.

He left Hong Kong briefly in the mid-1980s to work in London and Brussels but returned to become General Manager of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club.

his death.

As many FCC visitors to Amsterdam' s 394-year-old

pub "De Hoppe"

one of his yeafly trips back to Hong

Kong and his "homes away from home", the FCC and the RHI(YC.

-

He will be sadly missed.

Mike l(eats and Keith Shakespeare

May/.fune

1995

THE G0RRXSPOilDDIIT

g4

(Yo-Yo)

cellist Yo Yo Ma World-famous classical on the sPends more time ProbablY

While on tour' road than at home' he might

converted monastrY rn

staY

FÏorence one

da¡ and a Hong Kong high he rise the next' Although

piano with can,t take his grand things he never leaves there are two

One is his 2S0-yearold home withoul

The other is his Stradivarius cello'

The cello gets IBM ThinkP ad755C' But it's the iß own seat on the Plane' ThinkPad that lceep his Iceys of his

on those fing*ers nimble

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The IBM ThinkPad 755C:

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:'11i:

ot call28,25

----

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ffiffi;reisad¡ffefence¡strademarkoflnternationalBUsineslV1achineScorporatlono1995lBl\¡corporation

I

I

--I II

There is a difference'''

-

-----

.

-

E--TI III

-

T-

whv uldn't

A layman's guide to aÍrÍriversaries

to want your d'ollars

uith no risk to earn as much interest as possible inuolaed' ønd, no for i'nstant uithdraual' þenalty

it's Not unreasonable but unfortunatell a bank or not always þossibtz if you banh with you build,ing society as thq sometimes þenatise nohce' you withdraw )our rnunE without giuing of only With a minimum opentngbalance

if

Access

a;,,

my d.ollars to ea,n

Please send me details

Tel/Fax No.

-

fi100,000 uþ

$249,999;

uþ to $99,999; and 4'50Ví

on

#1o,ooo uþ to $49,999' AndYour sauings are 100Vo gurnanfued** secun'

d,uring weehll business atternatiu

etY

þx

ho't'r'rs'

him on 2 5 2 6 2 993

or return the couPon to Wooluich

-'Tl I

of the Woolwich

he hbel savs it all." That rrsed ,o Þe a ravor,,eo saylng ol an old aunt of mine. Well, I say old aunt, but, in fact, when I give it some thought, I reckon Hildawouldn't have been more than 4O when I last saw her. She was also rather fond of the opposing "You can't judge a book by

associated with them. "Don't come running to me with a broken leg" was a common caution from old "Harry" Harris, the history teacher. There I go again. His rìame wasn't Harry; it was Eustace and he wasn't really old but, when a child, I never thought of him as

its cover".

Sowhat's got me onto thistrain of thought? I'll tell you. It's bang on tar-

She

Countrl

Rztum to Agent for Hong Kong reþresentatiae office:

And¡al Ed¿n, Ernest Maud,e Continental Inzleslmenls Ltd, 12th Floor Jl Wlnd,ham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Alternatiaely return lo: Woohuich Gutrnsq Limited, PO Box 341, La Tbnnelle House, Les Banqtus, St Pet¿r furt, Guemsq Gr'L 3LlW.

wooLwrcH GUERNSEY-

ln a chang¡ng world, it's good to be w¡th the Woolwich

$pedblm ot lhe tlone Kilg Mætary Âlthqlty. '.lrnds Sæün Zl d¡lulory obllgstlm to gEEntee lho llablllü4 ol wæhrlch Gwms€y

blæt to thê

ls lnder

inl$t

i

to the

cæmæy

sen company, will make any cash outlayworthwhile.

*";r*r|

Guernsq directlY.

'

sheer, simple pleasure of opening it on a special occasion, in carefully cho-

avintage was declared or a good vin-

For more information simþlY

call Andreu Ed,en on 25219188

say, p ort, Arm agnac or Calv ados which has your birth-year on the label. The

tage produced. This can add oodles

Address

your balance and, no penalty, uhatncr 5'257'i on 6.00Vå on fi250,000 uþ to $2'000'000; 5'00%' on #50'000 to acccess

-

merchants; and even they should exercise care. However, I strongly commend the ide a of acquiring a bottle of,

If you are Yery foftunate, you will have as your birth-date a year in which

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms

Instant fi10,000, the Wooluich Guernsq uith instan't US Dottar Account pa)s t0þ rates

clffitrt !!u

Limited: Principal

dæ

didn't suffer any nasty unmen-

anlthing other.

tionable that caused her to drop out of sight. Itwas justthatl eventuallymoved away from the area aîd, aîyway, I later learned that she wasn't really an aunt. That was another cliché of the time: adults who were close to a family, when propriety forbade the public use of the first name, were endowed with a token aunt or uncle title .

This was coupled with the famil-

get with labels and age.

The particnlarlabel in question is

iaruse of uncle or auntwhenrefering to an adult (toyboy was an item yet to be invented) who was a tad closer to the family than the cuckolded spouse mighthave wished. So there was inevitably many awoddly albeit unfair nod and wink behind the innocent back of a real relative.

Strange, the expressions people use. Very odd how they pick up certain comments, clichés or phrases

Indeed, 1945. Fifqt yeaß ago, a year that was signi-ficant for me, the reason being painfully obvious to any obseryer. Yes, I admit it, the port and me, we are of the same vintage.

I Tancy the wine matured better than its owner. It was smooth, powerful and possessed of subtle qualities. It had no fire but it had great warmth.

'Well rounded (okay, there's one similarity) and complex (!). It didn't last the night; I did.

and then, over a period, become

marvellous, quite simple but oozing prestige. It reads "This port wine from the Ferreira family reserves was sold at the Porter Tun Room, Chiswell Street, London, on 7 April, 1981'. This is

followed by the signature of Jorge Ferreira and precedecl by the title "FERREIRA, YINTAGE 1945"

.

of

busin$ ad

my

Egistercd offìce, PO BoX 341, St Pets Porl,

50m. Paij up Shðe Capital

ild

Ew6

excædng

be made thDugh r¡ioolwich Building Sæiety Branches

of

kudos, but don't get worried about it or carried away. It's the personal fun that should be most important.

Older vintages can be expensive to buy, as well as difficult to find, thus I would suggest picking up a bottle or so whenever the chance presents itself, only paying what you consider to be a reasonable price, then pop the goodies in a quiet, cool, dark place until the chosen moment. With Port, tlae'45,'55 and'63 arcbitbeyond the pocket money range these days, but some '70s and '8Os canbe found quite reasonably priced.

'With wines, there is little better advice than to pick a merchant you trust, whose products you like, and ask for help.

There are no rules to this game.

You don't have to keep the goods for any specifiedperiod; similarþ, you don't have to drink it straight away either.

A very lucþ person indeed would be one who gets as a present a birthdate bottle which is coincidentally a great vintage. Luckier still if this giÍt can be kept for a number ofyears and then opened on a significant occasion and enjoyed in good company.

Believe me and the words always

associated

with singer/songwriter

VinkMartindale fromthat golden oldie Deck of Cards - "It's true . . . Iknow, I was that soldier". æ

rgts onnwli!.d to tale ac@nt ol the coîÐol.fldlng ot

, Bexþytæath, Kent DA6 7RR, Tdr 081 298

þty. No deposits or wihdrawals

ways asks "What will it cost?", and then adds "What will it be worth in 10/

I firmly reject the idea of anyone laying down wines with a linancial profit in mind unless they're wine

Club general rrì-al]agef Jettrro I-eeÌ\datrone:r o1a the pleasLlre of finding, and ttren keeping a bottle to rrrark a specia-l occas10lf.

Guernsq Instant Access US Dollar Account.

Poslcode

shy away from making any reconìmendation, for the questioner almost al-

2O/3O years?"

invest your dollars w¡th a bankIt's not unreøsonable

I tell you of this simply because I want to offer a suggestion. People often ask if they should lay down wine or spirits to commemorate occasions stch as births or weddings. Usually I

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e were sitting

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cussing the pugilistic past of the FCC the other night and the

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REE-C

LUNCH

+ Heady English Breadfast served till

1 0.30 am Mon. - Sat. Pub Grub, Da¡ly Special Roast Beef Sunday Lunch Cocktail Night Every Tuesd ay 2 fo( 1, 5 - Midnight.

+ Traditional

TYe

look fonwan d fo seeing you! to

Furama Hotel)

Central, Hong Kong, Tel:2525 7436

THE GODOWN

Sonth China Building, l-3 Wyndham Street Tel: 2526-5293 Fax 280 1-5006

dent young intedoper is seldom heard these

Close Encounters of the Exotic lndian Kind

The Ashoka l-hL, (7:(10

lìr'\t.lut,rrt Ä llol,al gortrnrcl tlclitc ¡rtrils you, rvith V,rlcl lhrking p rìr - l0:00 P nr

llì t)lì l) ilì \V('nrcstill lhcre.rl ST-î9\A'r,¡tlh¡¡il 185

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FoR RESERVATToNS CALL 524 zoaa THE GODOWN, LIPPER BASEMENT, FURAMA HOTEL, ONE CONNAUGHT PLACE,

CEMRAL, HONC I(ONC

:

FCC up on Conduit Roadwas marred bya struggling foursome of safari-suited

newsmen who were manfully trying

to eject a drink-i¡flamed

VOTED HONG KONG'S

"Its late and had a bi we haYerrft from lO 12 a,m.

Late night supper Friday, Saturday and eve's to pubìic holidays.

t/tnm

I

colleague.

trying to run his hand uP the leg of another member's wife had caused it all, and nothing but the taste of blood could assuage the insult.

Another memorable physical encounter involved the saintly Richard Hughes, later doyen of the Foreign Press Corps in Hong Kong, and a talented amateur boxer in his halcyon days as a shunter on the railways of South Victoria. A particulady obnoxious young Canadian reporter straight out of Vietnam was rubbishing what he called the Armchair China.Watchers who observed the rich tapestry

lifeup inthe

PRC

of

fromthe safetyof the

members' bar at the FCC. Richard shook his head sadly, took rnixed handful of Hawaiian shirt, denim jacket and vest, v'ith a pound or two of chest-flesh and a cudy mass of body hair, and lifted the hapless drunk

up

a

miscreants.

My own brushes

Some minor matter of the miscreant

2 LAN KWAI FONG 8O4 ó5ó

e

físticuffs bere: fílm nigbt at tbe FCC, Cond.uit Road

My first introduçtion to the old :

Ol)l:N r\l-l- DÁYS ()l:1'l lli \,VflliK (()I,r¡.rlrJ h\ I ¡rl((l ll¡etr¡ íe' lnl(il\.rtx)rì,rll

No

environs of the FCC.

lntlulgerce krr,

Ir

- committee down the on the heads of the

days in the more decorous, more staid

)

l¡kc¡\nil:'i\clclicirrr¡rlrtrli.rnlndul¡ientt'Wt,th,lirerllrt.

I'ut\\1,(rì ;t{)tl l,

switchblade arrd an-

e

tooth or two in the mouth of some impu-

2 COURSE SET TUNCH INCIUDING COFFEE $I IO

D

other a face-full of glass brought the wrath of

as

Th

-WHERE THINGS REAttY TAKE OTT-

LUNCH, DINNER & DANCING -PRTVATE ROOM-

satisfy ing cmnch of a clenched knuckle unsettling a

timers mistily recalled

Corne andjoin us at one of Cenúnalts favouriúe pubs.

Opening Hout's: B atn t¡ll 2am illonday - SaturdaJ,, Noon - il,l¡dilight Sunday: Llapp¡, Hout 5 -8 pm

being.

column, "Straight Up".

Hisployworked. Other encountefs - one involving a threat with a

them

(M*t\K',

Ground Floor, Hutchinson House (next

the clear intention of ensuring that reports of such boyish pranks wouldnotappearinmy Sunday Morníng Post

ever as good as the old-

ßtsenent, E-¡z flenn.essy ßotd, Wrncfrt-i, Ío¡ ¡esirvalions, pleos'e call 5zg 9032

+

dis-

"good old days" were

UR.SE tsUF"F"ET PLUS COF"FEE $160 O

off his feet without breaking the benign smile that habitually lit up his great Aussie mug. The two became firm friends ever afterwards.

Max Lucas, former public prosecutor, had a problem on his hands at the bar, on more than one occasion, with feisty young lawyers, overburdened with adrenaline, likely to break out in sporadic bursts of violence.

One young Kiwi contestant was V7arwick Reid, who has since gained

considerable notoriety, but hitherto was known principally as the "W.igee"

in a squabble that has since become something o[ a legend.

Reid and another young lawyer, equally overburdened with male hormones, fell to physical combat in a nearby restaruantwhich was climaxed

by Reid being deprived of his rather handsome and totally convincing hairpiece. To add insult to injury, the rug was then stuffed into a full carafe of red wine, whence it emerged looking like a blood-stained catskin.

Max tried valiantþ to pour oil on the troubled waters of such bruising encounters and took to buying me a succession of industrial-sized dri¡ks

involved,

at

various times,

a

mountain-

ous Swiss, a mean little Glaswegian and a particularþ nasty Australian, who, as aresult ofone ofsuch engagement, was found to be eminentlywell qualified for a position in the Luton Gids Choir. That particular incident brought me a month's suspension and it gradually began to dawn on all but the more boisterous members that the club was changing its attitude to physical exuberance and cracking down on the hooligans.

It would be nice to be able to say that such occasional outbursts ofviolence are now a thing of the past, but the nature of our membefs, the ready

availability of booze and the packed conditions of the main bar provide a potentially explosive mixture.

The sound of a collapsing barstool is still a comforting and famiJl;ar one, and although such entertaining diversions are due more to the eccentric design of the stools than habitual

violence, there is still an occasional flurry of drunken fists to enliven an otherwise uneventful cocktail hour.

Got a memofy of two to share? All

contributions

welcome.

58-62 D'Aguilar Street Lan Kwai Fong Central Hong Kong An Elite Cotrcept

days as

memory erasers), with

usual argument developed as to whether the

TÉ{E SECRETS OF'A MEDITERRANEAN KITCFtrEN

+

(knowninthose

May/Jrne7995 Tf,E

CoRRf,SPoNIIH|T

E33¡

Paul Bayfield joins Digital

Money for old rope

For your

Former club president Paul Bayfield has been appointed to the new position of publications manager, Asia Pacific, for the Digital computer company.

Bayfield will oversee all Digital's corporate publications for the Asia Pacific area. His first assignment will be to launch Digital rocløy Asia Pacific. "'Vil'e are fortunate to attract such an experienced writer and editor to workforDigital," saidJonRirtger, vice-presidentof Communications, Digital Asia Pacific. "Paul will be instrumental in implementing Digital's woddwide communications strategy and improving the quality of our Asia pacific staff, pattîet, customef and marketing publications. He brings to Digital a wealth of knowledge about the region's economic, social and cultural diversity and will be a great asset to ollr communications team."

Bayfield joins Digital after spencling two years as editorial director with Asia Pacific Directories. Before that, he was with the Far Eastern Econoncic Reuiew for eight years, six of them as news editor. He was also involved in the design and launch of All-Asia Reuietu of Books.

diary

Waheed

Waheed Mahmoud.

Holberton the reminders. Several days after the hotel finally closed its doors on April 29, John McDougall picked his way through the derelict hotel's eady debris and removed a metal scroll reading "The Richard Hughes Room".

The club now holds His Grace's relics, which will be placed in the \ùlyndham room, to be renamed the Richard Hughes room.

most distinguisheddiners.

One corner was dedicated to Philippine Foreign Minister Carlos P. Romulo, who James Smítb(secondfrom rigbt), an6l clubs members øt tbe Hilton.

Ten clays before the Hong Kong Hilton assumed its new role as a ftagment of history, a group of FCC members gathered in the Hilton Grill to deal ceremoniouslywith a club-related

sub-fragment: the restaurant's Richard Hughes Room.

Richard, aka His Grace , was more

of a phenomenon than simply a journalist - a self-caricaturing raconteur whose outrageous personality and lifestyle may still be savoured in novels by Ian Fleming and John Le Carre, two close friends.

At the height of the Hilton's popLrlarity in the relatively competition-free

at

Leyte

had won

a

Pulitzer Prize,

with cenïåf

having second thoughts

security guard,

hancled FCC preside nt Simon

tohonourwhat considered the Grill's two

Hicks.

Vines can be seen here

The collection box in the club raised $18,000 for rhe fam-

Seventies, the

it

bers Stuart W.olfendale, Robin Lynam and Paul

Mahmoud

hotel'smanage-

ment decided

spondent in these parts can still be amighty dangerous occupation, as Steve Vines, former FCC president and tlre Indie' s man in Asia, discovered on a trip to Thailandwith fellow club mem-

íng Post, will speak at a MEDIA magazine lunch at the Grand Hyatt onJune 16.

Hilton hands over Dick Hughes relics

-Anthony

Ron

Being a foreign corre-

Jonathan Fenby, the new editorof the Soutl¡ CbinaMorn-

ily of the late

Nlice ofre, Congratulations to Ron Knowles of theEastern Express on picking up the Australian Tourist Association's first Ozline award for a feature he wrote on a raftilrg adYenture in Tasmania. Ozline is an

anntral award designed to honour journalists who haye written accurate and i¡fluential articles on Australia's tourism industry. Ron wins a free trip to Bali . . . sorly, Australia.

about crossing from a fishing boat to a village on the island of Koh Chang, via a

I TOTJRIST

bridge consisting of two worryingly slender lengths

!|ED|A

of rope.

Wolfendale cut down his own risk factor considMore dangerous tlran editing tlJe Eastern Express erably by simply refusing to leave the poolside at the resort, two hours away by boat, while Lynam and Hicks declined without hesitation to even attempt the crossing. In the end, Vines also concluded that it was a daft thing to do and the three adventurers sailed on to a pier, where they were able to disembark via the more high-tech me dium of a good, old-fashioned Asian plank of wood.

Ron Knoules, second

from left,

J!

receiues

bis au.tard from reþresentatiues of the

Australian tourist indust y.

Paul

THE ZOO

BY ARTÈUR HACKER

iåiïï:

MacArthur and become first president of the United Nations General Assembly. The other plaque went up orrer His Grace's favourite corner. tùl-hen the Grill was re-decorated, Rumulo's tribute simply vanished.

However, the Hilton promoted the Richard Hughes Corner to a full room, where photos of the former correspondent for the Times and Sunday Times of London went up on the wall.

The Hilton's farewell came at a Champagne party on April 20. Interrupting his hectic closedown schedule, manager James Smith formally

IOO YEAR OLD EGGBURGÉR5 BEITlNG DUC

KBURGER5

sWEÈT ANÞ 5OUR

PORKBUR'.ERS

And they're off . aren't they? High-speed camerawork catches Robert Grinterand Keith Shakespeare as, once again, they entertain the bar in a tense tussle to see who will be the first to fitús]a Ibe Tímes crosswotd puzzLe.

The Governor, Chris Patten, was on hand at a cocktail reception in the club to mark the opening of fhe Wasbington Post's new Hong Kong bttreau. Pictured here, from left to right, are: Francis Moriarty, club president Simon Holberton, Post executive editor Leonard Downie, the Governor, Post foreign editor Eugene Robinson ancl bureau chief Keith Richburg.

ll:t),/hrnc

I

995

THE CORRXSPoilDEIIT

New members

CanOn l\lF., Mirrcr

Maynard (J

È î, (J

l.'r

Jan Philipp Sendker

Chang Shu-ming

Denis Brulet

U (û

of Roundhouse

Publica-

Michael Battye

Edward Gargan

Hari Narayan Chenglath

Address | 21lF., Cornwall House, Taikoo Place, 979 Klng's Bd , Ouarry Bay, Hong Kong

Manager

Execut¡ve

l/r l\,4s

Albert

Chan

2565 2008

Wong

2565 2007

Louise

Pttovrsr0NAL AtRpersr AufH0ttlrr Ho¡¡e Ko¡te Public Relations Manager Phillip Bruce 282477OO Media Relations Manager Norma Fung 28247705 ' 28247152 Media Enquiries (24 hours) Function: Developing Hong Kong's new airpod at Chek Lap Kok

been a success and the publishers are keen to publish follow-up titles for other Asian destinations.

This proved to be an interesting precursor to April's workshop on self-publishing, which outlined the intricacies of production, print-

Rebe cca Bradley, a local atrthorwho has published a book of Hong Kong hor¡or stories, andJane lØithey, who packaged two business bo oks, Hottt

U (h

(t

Iì

lapan Works and Doing Business in China, for a North American Tom Koppel

Andrew Lam

Thomas Crowlel'

Hong Kong Trade Development Council 3B/F

)ffice

Tower, Clnvent¡on Plaza, 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong

Local lnternational

S

Ignarski

Andrew Hall

Ann Elaine Rutledge

new topics? At the committee meeting following the meeting, committee members discussed these ideas to formulate next year's schedule of events.

Schedule of speaker topics for the monthlymeetings (fìrstVednes.

day of each month):

June: Tips on travel photography July: Expatriates in ptrblishing after 1997

fr.fl-time

Peter H Brooks

THE C0RRXSP0NI¡DNT }lay/.lurrc

f f*onl

THE \øHARF (HOLDINGS)LIMITED

Shriro (Hons Kons) Limited

Rm 1902-3, Wheelock House,20 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong

2/F Hutchison House, Central, Hong Kong

Director Manager

Poon

Affairs

PL. 25245081 Managing Jimmy 2524 5081 Senior Se rvices/Prod u cts: Sole agent of Nikon cameras, Hasselblad cameras, Llnhof cameras and

Services/Products: Property investment and development in Hong Kong and China; terminals and transport systems, hotels in Asia and

Epson LCD portable TVs

North America; Cable Television and Telecommunications.

Wan

Head of Corporate

Nick

Thompson 2844-2139

For information on booking an insertion, sirnply fax your name and contact numbers to 2521 8366

Cla-ssifi-ed

Classified advertising in Tbe Corresþondent is

csn' zsn 1996 Atlqnto OlYmPics 19 Bungolow for rent July

- Aug 4' Convenient

neor venues' nightlife' intown neighborhood

economical and easl' fax yout'name and

corltact details to 2521-8366 for more

information.

1óA Mid Levels' Write: RC Briggs, 4 KennedyTr'

(S52) 2BB1 6215 Hong Kong or Fox

a salary / ft eelancer rates,

Saturday, l0June 2 pm

I

99í

2584 4294 2584 4489

Dallas, Dubai, Frankfurl, Guangzhou, Ho Chi Minh City, lstanbul, Jakarta, London, Los Angeles, lVlexico City, Miami, Milan, Moscow, Nagoya, New York, 0saka, Panama City, Paris, Santiago, Seoul, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Singapore, Stockholm, Sydney, Taipei, Tianjin, Tokyo, Toronto, Vancouver, Vienna, Warsaw, Zurich

publisher.

Committee members have also been asked to gather feedback on speaker topics and workshops asking: What were the most popular topics, should any be repeated, and

Workshop June How to negotiate

Nigel

OffiGes in: Amsterdam, Athens, Bangkok, Barcelona, Buenos Aires, Chicago,

do you have any suggestions for

Jonathan

Cheung Lilburn

William

lnas

Frances and Debra were joined by

d

Kwan

China

Sole Distributor : JOS Consumer Electronlcs

Product lVlarketing

only half the battle; organising sponsorship, launches, media liaison, promotional give-aways, and T-shirts demand atotal commitment to the

Communicalion Phil Burfurd 2747 5360 Corporate Communication Manager 2747 5214 C.F. Hong Kong, Public Relations Manager-Commercial Nadia Sloyle 2747 5393 Servi ces/Products: Hong Kong-based international airline Manager Corporate

Canon cameras and video camcorders

Senior

ers and distribution networks. th (J

7/F, Swìre House, g Connaíght Road, Central, Hong Kong

Mody Rd., Ko'tloon, Hong Kong

a Plate, a culinary journey through

product. Macau on a PIøte l"i

Tower, 61

tions have just publishedMø cótu on

Macau. Frances talked at a fecent meeting about procedures for promotion and follow-up that are Íequired with self-publishing.

Getting the book published is

CnrHnv Pncrrrc

Canon Hongkong Trading Co., Ltd.

Services/Products:

Frances Bartlett and Debra

U)

I

Press R.elations

'Womenin Publishing

Mzry/June7995 THE CORRXSPONIIDNT

-

Nîkon rF90x

A montbly portrøùt of FCC ùrcepløceøbl,es l{owetler Good You Are, You Can D0 Better ,,,

Peter Cattotr Member since: Age:

Occupation: Nationality: Description:

1968 Over the hill Semi-retired, lra}ral, Australian Still enjoying Macau after 27, G.P.'s

Pltotograpbed by llubert Vøn Es

Kodak (Far East) Limited Sponsored by

Tf,E

GORRXSPOII|I¡ENT Ma1.{f

unt t 995

+EJìg(iËF)ãFE'z.^El

Nikon F9OX Higher speed, greater aecuracy.

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úGA

sotE acE*r: sHRtRo {H,K.rLïD.

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For mare tnfot!Ì1al¡on m3ilbâck lllts ccuaaa lo Sl).ttÒ tH K ) Llo GPO Box 181 Hotie Kong

Nañê: Address

:

2nd Floor Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Road, Central, Hong

Fg(X

Kong

Tel: 2524

5031-8

Fax: 2810 6586

WHEN YOU BUNN FOR THE FUTURE, NTVP,R FORGET YOUR ROOTS.

Established

in

1886, the Wharf Group's main business relies on long term core investment projects

in Hong Kong. However, as we pursue other investment'opportunities

elsewhere, such as China,

Stngapore and the united States, we are committed to developing property and infrastructure projects similar to the ones we have successfully completed in Hong Kong over the last 100 years. It is this

simplc philosophy of always remembering our roots that we tell our investors alÌ around the world.

¡7

^\øHARF Corrtact rtttmbers: The

wharf (I{oldìngs) Lld

2738 E222

o wharf Cable 2611 6g6g o c)rnni Hotels Asra pacifjc2736 3232