The Correspondent, September 1997

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of ine Fiel

,Ăžongyang

Fergal Keane in Afghanistan

Reporting all the way to the.banS =;t-:.:,,i 'y/g"ld Fiank/_IMF preview __

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In Germany, we chase the police.

THD GORRDSPONIIDNT September 1997

Catberine Field. reþortsfront North Kot"ea uhere it is always uinter but neuer Cbtistm.as

ÏrIE FOREIGN CORRESPOI\¡DENTS'

CLT'B 2 Los,er All>en Road, Hong Kong Teleplrrne: ZiZl l5ll Fax: 2t|6tì 4092

E-nrail: [cc@fcchk.org Keith Richburg President Diane Ston)ront Fißt Vlce Prqsldent Second Vice

Prsldent -

Cor6pondent Me

Kar¡n Mâlnìstrónì

-

Andrew Higgins, Jonarban Mirsky, Chr Simon Twiston Drvies, Hultert van Steplìen Vines. Hâns Vriens.

Fergal Keane suffers higb sumnler in a. mud.hut on tbefrontline in Afgbanistan

Es,

Journalist Member GovefnoË Andrew Lynch, Francis Mor¡arq' Associate Member Govemoß

Villiam H. AresonJr.,John CorbenJr., Nlike Smith, Julian Valsh

Professional

Karin Malmström on

Conñlttee

Cort L'e nor KeiÍh Richburg Multl-media Commlttee C0il?,ror D¡ane Stonnont Flnmce C¡mittee

Co,

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the

perils ancl

pleasut"e of taking Beíjing journalists .for ø global spin

Areson Jr

Memtreshlp Commlttee Co,¡rer¡o,: Hubert van Ës f,'¿asrr,",: -Julirn \Valsh F& B

md Entertaiment Com.r¡lttee Co

pedals which pivot away on impact,

in our archives. serious than it sounds.

In

1959, we undertook our

Since 19ó9, thanks to the

first crash test. And we still conduct

co-operation of the German police, our

over one hundred such tests every year.

engineers have been travelling to major

Painstakingl¡ we compile all

it

road accidents in which a Mercedes-

the evidence and feed

Benz has been involved.

engineers who are working on the next

Toda¡ we have the benefit

back to the

rather than crush the delicate bones

Analysis teams

will study the causes

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And their effects.

One team has even received

additional medical training.

safety car door which neither pops

rigid passenger car cell,

Publications com.mlttee ConLetrcr: Siilon Tw'iston Davies Terry Drrckhanr, Robin L¡,nar¡, Hubert van Es Paul Bayfield, Stephen Vines, Andret'Lynch Kees Metselaar

and

In fact, you might even say our cars are designed by accident.

The

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Lelfers

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Fr:ofii ttre President Shooting the rnessengers Corzer Stor5r Tourists in the lancl of ts''iligl'ìt

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1949, we perfected the

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EDITORIAI, OT¡¡ICE Telephone: 2527 1517 Frx:2868 4o92

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TÃE CORnXSP0lfIlElll

To the editor From Peter Cordingley I am in awe of the gall of Ted Thomas and Keith Statham (The Corcespondent, JuIy). Here we have lettels to Tb e CorcesþondenT from two public relations professionals, part of whose lives is devoted to ensuring that

journalists ne.¿er tell more than half the story: the half that is favourable to their clients.

And yet they suddenly feel authorised to lectnre correspondents on the need to teil the whole Hong Kong story - as they see it, of course.

'SØhat

a soclding cheek!

If Messrs Thomas

and Statham

have not yet noticed, thing s arc alreacly

beginning to change in the city where they forecast with such celtainty that everyhing would stay the sane. Nearly one million people have lost the vote.

But perhaps that is not the kind of change they had in mind. 'ùØhat they

probably meant was that nothing would change fol the business

cornrnunity. If that's the case, then all they have done is restate the bloocly obvious, with balls-aching tediurn. ' Isn't it time we now discovered a little more about the Advance Ted Thomas - sol С - Advance Hong Kong campaign. Can Ted please let us know

in these colurnns who were

the

journalists he hired and despatched

overseas

became secret.

For some time now I have heard

a

disturbing allegations that either between the shift of the FCC from Conduit Roadto the Hilton orfrom the Hilton to Sr-rtherland House some membership numbers were changed to give some members the benefit (?)

of a lower nurnber than originally allocated. The gratification no doubt came from signing bar chits.

Three times during the tenltre of the immediate past FCC president I

did the revenLle for all this come fi'om

company names and donations

specified, please Ted.

From Peter Finn

I have always believed that

FCC

rnernbership numbers ale sacrosanct once glven never taken away or

-

changed.

It used to give me great pleasure and plide to see the membership

The meal was imaginative, sewed

with

flair, presented on the plate with distinction and - never forget this! came ata reasonable price. It's the solt of occasion that will keep me coming back to the Club with guests as the dining place of choice in Central.

The staff, of course, were just the

usual: relaxed, casual, friendly, charming, totally efficient and very welcoming.

Could you please pass on my thanks and appreciation to Bob Sanders, Chef 'ùØarren. and all the Verandah serving staff.

date I have received no reply, despite

From Mr Alexander Wong The new Menu is a big disappointment. I go to the Main Dining Roorn and Verandah Grill two times a week on average. Please bling back

the fact that the FCC bills regulariy find

the popularFCC Rock Fish Soup, also

have w¡itten asking whether this allegation is tlue or untrLre. To this me. I would now like an answer.

Personally I hope the allegation is untrue. If not ...

my favoulite Oyster Rockefeller, Escargots and Steak Tartare. The new menu is too avant garde, too modern, too new. Please let us dictate what we

In tbe collectiue Club meru.ory (and it still reacbes bøck to tbe eørliest of numbers) tbis øllegation certainly bas no substønce. Deceased members numbers øre retired, and asyou know absentee mentbers numbers remain

want to eat, and not the other way

with the absentee members.

bread too!

Hu uøn

Es,

around.

The new French bread is also

a

big disappointment. It is very much inferior in quality to the previous one. Please bring back the old French

Meru.bersbiþ Committee

with the half-truth that

nothing would change. And where

-

plaque with the names and numbers of FCC members on the wall when the FCC was at the Hong Kong Hilton until, of colrrse, some discovered the subtle art of forgery and the numbers

From l(evin Sinclair I had lunch the other day on the Verandah. My guests wel'e a bunch of consnl-gener-als and international wine merchants. They were in universal praise of the setting, the decor, the serwice and the foocl. So was I.

Tl-re new rnenu

is splendid. Of

coLlrse, it's sad that some old favourite

items have disappeared, but given the constraints of the kitchen, I think the new chef has done an outstanding job.

Tbere is no accounting.for taste.

Robin Lynam, F&B Cc¡runtittee

r@

ST(lLICHNAYA Iettets fo tbe editor arc always win yourself a bottle of Stolichnayafor øn original or witty letter- butt we rcserue tbe ûgbt to eclitfor clørity orfor u.¡sJçç711s

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r. eclitol on tlre otlrer encl olthe line was as matter of facl as I was breathless about the day's developing news. "'SØhat have you got?" the editor

for Hong Kong didn't sound totally

asked.

the fi'equent question, "So what's

And then there was

cllanged since the Handover?", I find myself scratching nly head. 'ùØell, it's

govelnment in Bangkok presiding over' the coliapse of tl-re Thai economy.

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"Things are looking pretty bad," I said on the sclatchy line from Phnom Penh's Cambodian Hotel, just a week aftel strongman Hun Sen's coup d'état.

"Tl-re UN is confirming at Ieast 20

opposition politicians har.e been execlrted. A cor-rple of dozen others have fled the country for Thailand, and some are still in hiding. A new resistance movernent is forming in the

nolth-east. Newspapers have been shnt down. The Arnericans and others

are suspending their aid. But the strongman seems to be consolidating his grip."

"Great story," the editor said calmly. "Let's call it Hong Kong, and do it in 30 inches."

"Hong Kong?" I leplied. "I'm in Cambodia, not Hong Kong."

A long pause, an

know that the reality is a lot more mundane than that. \Øhenever I am confi'onted witl-t

far'-fetched.

\X/e

place these days, I say. Oh, yes, and for some reason, the taxi cl'ivers have gotten a lot friencllier. \Øe'11 have to wait and see. It's too early to tell. Or some other meanìngless platitude.

So why tl-re general assumption outside that things tnr-tst be heading

report on the hunan rights lecorcl . . is picking up inforrnation from certain people who are âgainst the govelnment." .

The pless

'ùØe

ASEAN meeting last month, I listened to the Burmese foreign minister, U

the Hong Kong bureau chief had

Ohn Gyaw, explain hoq, actually

hopped over to Phnom Penh just after the Handover.

The point is that for a lot of people in the great OutThere, such a scenario

everything was quite fine in Bur-ma, but "as far as the liuman rights question is concerned, I have to say that the

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'ùØashington last

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Oul alticles and broadcasts invite

to have that clollar fol every time I hearcl someone take off and start

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in tl-ie media are an easy target.

downturn in the toul-ist inclustry - as if overpliced hotels had nothing to do with the latest clismal slalistics.

I wish I had a dollar every time

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think the Chinese would move that quickly."

That's not an exchange out of latest novel on reportofial antics,

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economic issues, such as tl-re 3 pel cent VAT increase, and not to cl'eate

the transition.

Yet a bad press is being blamed

Evelyn \Øaugh' s Scoop, or Chris

capture quick moving sporls and aclion

scene's brighlness, conlrasl and distance,

embarrassed silence. "Oh, I thought that sounded a little dramatic for Hong Kong. I didn't

-ùØren's

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refrain fron-i reporting sensitive

ptrblic leaction, debate, and, yes,

for, arnong other things, the sharp

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The sensot evaluates nol only each

abroad. \ùØe ale said to be rolling out bad news in an effort, I suppose, to dmn up readerc and viewers, although for the life of rrle I can't think of any negative word, or even any words for that n'ìatter, about Hong Kong since

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THE CORRf,SPOlmEllT September 1997 SohAgent:S1|B|R0fH.(.lLTIl.2ndFloorHutchisonHouse,l0HarcourtRoad,Central,H0ngKong

Tel:25245031 Fax:28106586 WebSite:hllpj/wwwshrirocom

Tourists in the land of twílight rJØLrile the peas-¿nts starve, tkre cadres are st-ill <'ared for. FCC rrrerrrl>er

Cattrerirre Field reports frorn Pyong¡zang on tkre grim decline of the Stalinist regir-rr

IntelnationaI Flienclship

ftr.

I

E*hibi,¡on at Motrnt lvlyohang is Nortf i I(orea's Disneyland: a 12O-room fantasy woild of friendship and co-

operation belween the Herlnit Kingdom and some of the nastiest regimes in recent history.

In this cavernolls hall, dug out of the bowels of a sacred molrntain and lined with ferro-

is out-stretched and his face is set in that peculiar way of dictators that, depending on your mood, means either a warm paternalistic welcome or-frosty admonition. The statue - a present to North Korea from China lacks the giant goitre that bobbled

This strange building freezes time

in the 1950s, Kim's halcyon

years.

Then, world was an uncomplex place and full of promise. As in the \Øesterns, thele were sirnplywhite hats andblack hats, friends and foes. And the future was a propaganda poster - a pemanent golden dawn of chubby babies,

rosy-cheeked girls and happy

peasants

hauling in

Great and Dear leadels from

dictatols and syrnpathisers

andthe International Friendship

around the world are on show.

It is a sublime display of Cold \Øar kitsch, tended by a small arn'ry of cleanels, security staff and guides who brief the daily work-unit toLu'glolrps ancl the now rare foreign visitor.

Here is a model bronze tank from the Soviet forces in East Germany, bearing the date of 1OJune 1953, just a week before those same troops crushed a workers' uprising in East Bellin.

Exhibition does its best to ward

There, a tableau of Tower

economy is unable to provide

it off. Inside, the displays of Stalinist tar and the waxen despot are preened and prinked, lit and air-conditionecl.

In the countryside beyond, the

peasants are so weak from hungel that some can be seen foraging for food by the sides of the road or seeking to trap an eel or a small fish by the outlet pipes of field drains.

In Pyongyang,

r'T F

.And g odile $ given by Nicaragua's I Sandinistas. The reptile is

Kim's

electriciry to light the pot-holed streets, although his 20-metre statue, an exercise to rival Stalin

Bridge, its arms raised of course

Tbe golden.

pelched on its hind legs, while its forelimbs ciutch a traywithwooden cocktail goblets: the pelfect party icebreaker.

clawn neuer cante

on the Great Leacler's neck in leal life. Al1 r,isitors must bow solemnly to the wax effigywhile martial music

Railway locomotives

lie

rusting

and idle in the sidings for lack of spare

\Øar - era trucks lie abandoned by the side of the road; and in the empty warehouses, the ancient machinery lies silent and abandoned by workers too weak to tend it. The dead are buried in rented

parts; Cold

coffins.

dusty railway stations of this unloved country, women laden with bags full of shoes or scraps of food trudge along hoping to swap their pathetic things

nationalist-style campaign. "This is now the Third Arduous March," the

with someone with spare corn or rice.

was the First Alduous March; the Second came after the Korean Y/ar'

daily said in a front-page commentaly.

"During the anti-colonial times there

International aid groups now provide survival assistance to all of

against the anti-party reactionaries ancl

splittists; the Third is becanse of flood

North Korea's population aged under seven. Tens of thousands of children

damage and long drought. Let us

strengthen the party's work in

The economy itself is breaking down, burdened by the absurdities of the Stalinistsystem; the end of support

from China and the Soviet Union, which gave out about tlvo million tonnes of subsidised food each year during the Cold \üar'; and the lack of foreign currency with which to buy essentials abroad.

Food shortages, caused by

conforming with the last charge of this A¡duous March."

On the other hand, the par-ry and the military ale well cared for'. The only road traffic is trucks driven by the armed forces, or imported Japanese saioons, with either a uniformed man at the wheel or a civilian chattffettr, driving a party cadre.

'lfhe ancient rrrackrinery lies al>andoned b;z v.¡orkers to uzeak to find it'

At the Kim Song-Jr-r creche in Pyongyang, which is reserved for offspring ofthe parry elite, the childlen

regirne, opelates in a sepulchlal gloom. In the station, the chandeliers,

to aid workers, while one

looked healthy and well-fed and were

350 grammes - the equivalent of seven

grolÌp warns that "hundleds of

an emulation of Moscow's glorious underground nerwork, are dusty and have not been lit for months, while in the carriages, two 40-watt bulbs, one

tablespoons of rice - per person per day. In the countryside, where foocl

thousands" of people could die shortly

grammes.

smartly clothed. They pelformed rituals for visitors to celebrate the birth of the "Great leader", the "Dear' Leader", Kim Jong-Il and the mother of the "Great Leader" before performing a ditty, Let's Be Strong Children for the Country.

tl'umpets in the background, and they

thoughts in a commemorative book

at each door', provicle the sole

aftelwards.

íllurnination for tl-ie silent travellers.

l>er 1997

()

in self-glorification, is floodlit all night. The city's subway system, once the pride of the

In the middle of the air-

r-rp their

.s

economic inefficiencies as much as by the three successive years of flood and drought, are now exacting a toll. ln

conditioned caveln is a life-size statue of Kim Il-Sung hirnself against a pink and blue plastel backdrop. His hand

ale required to write

È

the

cofnrlcopla.

The future has now arlived

concrete, the 61,000 gifts to the

\

the capital, rations have been cut to

hoarding on the collective farms

punished, the handout is just

is 100

On the cracked pavernents and

suffering malnourishment,

^re according

r,rnless there pfogramme.

is a massive relief

As part of its campaign to rally the

population, the party mouthpiece Roclong Sinmun is propagating a

September 7997 TflÎ' CoRRf,SPoNDDIII

The source of the money to keep the top people huppy is sornething of

a mystery. There are suspicions of skulduggery, involving heroin production and export and top-quality countelfeit dollar bills, in which North Korean government offices abroad could play a r-ole.

According to a'Síestern diplomat, on several occasions Nolth Korean

diplomats have been arrested on suspicion of transporting drugs to European countries. One group was caught trying to smlrggle nearly eight

tonnes of heroin into Russia.

'SØhatever

the truth is of these it lies hidden to visiting foreign jor-rrnalists who are closeiy allegations,

chaperoned throughout their stay. \ùØe went in as visitors, under the cover of tourists, whichis the onlywayof course to enter North Korea, except as an aid

worker, diplomat or businessman.

Trusted party officials or loyalists shadowed us every step of the official

itinelary and even during our brief leisure time - they rnasqueraded as tour guides and drivers and become spontaneous "companions" at the bar

after dinner. They always knew to ordelStellaArlois, a Belgianbeerwhich is hugely expensive in Nofih Korea

rather than the Pyongyang-brewed

no longer tnned into the dangerous

beer, when it was our round.

BBC SØorld Service.

Regimes fall in different ways,

Our minders were thrown into

a

panic by any thought of individual initiative or diversion from the propaganda schedule. \ùØhen this

and the world only seems to remember those that collapsed spectaculady. \Øe recall the images of

correspondent suggested she make a brief foray from the Koryo Hotel with

the vaingiorious Shah and the banquet

friends from an aid agency, they begged her not to: "You'll get poisoned, something could happen

entertained wodd leaders while at

to you."

One afternoon, we managed to spend some time strolling the streets near our hotel. síithin a ,very short time we noticed two burly rnen following us. They were immediately

noticeable as they were cooling themselves in crude rattan fans that they used to try and cover their faces.

The room searches on the other hand were discreet and professional.

I locked my suitcase everyday and

found no evidence that it had been tampered with. Yet my travelling companion Stephen Vines noted "someone" had carefully checked all

the cigars in his baggage, neatly slitting open the seal on each pack to check the contents before replacing everything as before. His radio had obviously been closely examined and

of roasted peacocks with which he the gates, the hungry crowds seethed

in anger. \Øe remember Erich Honecker and his glitteling celebration to mark the 40th

anniversary of the founding of East Germany, both reduced to absurdity within weeks.

But oul memories tend to go blank on Albania, a country whose ruler, Enver Hoxha, was just as despotic and hermetic as Kim, After his death, the

regime lingered until finally being changed (rather than overthrown) in a messy operation by Hoxha lieutenants.

The misery and discontent iinger today; nor has the country found a new era of intellectual enlightenment or political freedom. Perhaps North.Korea will be a similar case, a place where it is always rwilight, where - to borrow from C.S. Lewis - it is always winter, but never Christmas.

ë

s È Þ

() I b

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2521líll

'Tn" capitaloFcapital. There's no I placernoredrivenin itsobsessive

Spending allthe way to the bank R-egiona-l currency trar-rrnas aside, Cl-rina- xzill t>e the focr:s of tl-ris rrronth's rüÇzodd Ba,rtk/ Fund rrreeting, uzrites International ^4onetary l\[ark Cli-f;ford

quest for profit than Hong Kong. It's both fitting and ironic that the first major international event since the reversion of Hong Kong to Chinese rule is the annual \Vorld Bank/ International Monetary Fund meeting, which takes place from

September 1.5-26.

The meeting also takes place agarnst abackdrop of currency turmoil

and economic soul-searching

as

policymakers from Seoul to Bangkok find themselves in the worst economic situation for a decade.

But it's China that will hold centre stage. China is the NØorld Bank's largest borrower, inhaling nearþ US$ 3 billion a year from the 'ùØashingtonbased institurion - US$28 billion to date. It's a staggering sum, though it's onlyUS$22 a person. The moneygoes on everything from cutting poverty in the Qinba mountains to setting up sewerage systems in Shanghai.

But the bulk of the lflorld Bank's

enormous spending flows into September 7997

TÃD, GORRXSPOII|IIDNT

mammoth infrastnrcture pfoiects - to the highways and dams which China is throwing Lrp at a furior-rs pace.

Though the bank sta¡zscl away frorn the controversial Three Gorges Dam,

it's a major fr-rndel of the US$1.2 billion Xiaolongdi Dam q'hich will see more than 180,000 people displaced. Spending on giant dams enrages critics of the bank, wl'io think its emphasis on mega-projects of dubious economic benefit and often far-reaching envilonmental and human consequences, points up the poverty at the core of development politics.

World B¡anldFCC Events September !,4.00pm Briefing on "Global Economic Prospects", an ambitious'SØorld Bank study which bravely sLrrveys the world's economy for the coming decade. Briefing by Tim Cullen, one of the bank's senior public relations staffers.

September 11,4.00pm Briefing on "Financial Sector Reforrn in East As ia" by JavadShfuazi, regional managerfor strategy and,until recently, the country directorfor sevelal countries in the region, including Tliailand, Malaysia and the Philippines. He will be accompanied by Stijn Claessens, the author of the report.

The \X¡orld Bank's new president,

James Wolfensohn, has been trying to reshape the bank's often stifling culture and make it mole responsive to the increasingly vocal complaints

of environmentalists and other activists.

Unfortunately, in the case of China, he's not helped by a government which has carefully rationed foleign media access to most

of the bank's projects. The

bank

managed one media trip this spring, but most of its projects have been off lirnits to journalists,

The Hong Kong meeting is September 15, 7.00pm-9.00pm A preview of an extensive Channel 4 documentary on the '!Øorld Bank's activities in Uganda in the genre of The Last Governor. Two 50minLrte progl'ammes were boiled down from 450 hours of fly-on-the-

wall footage.

minister-designate) Zhu Rongji will be in Hong Kong and are expected to use

the meeting to underline China's commitment to economic reforrns.

September 1-8,4.00pm Briefing on one of the bank's most important studies of the year, the China 2020 report, by one of the principal authors. The leport looks at: environment, income inequality, food, global economic integration health care and pension lefolm.

oô

The bank and the IMF will hold a series of press briefings for accredited

Convention and Exhlbition Centre.

The FCCwill be rr-rnning a paraliel set of briefings featuring many of the

In add.ition, tbe World Banle plans to bold FCC briefings on corruption, as well as tbe Pbiliþpines ønd Indonesia. All euents talee pløce in tbe Møin Dining Roont. Please cbeck tbe lobby notice board or the Main Bar Menu for an updated scbedule of the IVoùd Bank brief ings at tbe FCC .

1!!7

\Øith sweeping reforrn of the limping state sector at the top of tl're reform agenda, the international community will be watching for signs of how far the process of change will

journalists at the Hong Kong

Septemtrer 19,Z.30ptn Envilonmental expert Andrew Steer will talk about environmental challenges in Asia.

THE C0RRXSPONIIEilT Septenrber

a

coming-out palty of solts For China's leadership. Both premier Li Peng and economic czar (and presumed prime

bank's Asian experts (see box).

Highligl'rts include the lelease of a major report looking af the next 25 years of China's economic development, as well as a wide variety of country and sector briefings.

I@

China is the World Bank s latgest borrower ar nearly US$3 billiott a ye.tr US82B billion Ío dnte - that uorl¿s ottt aI ot'tly US$22 þer bead of Cbina's total poptLlation, but ít cloes tt'iclzle cloutt Aboue: Inclush'iótl Estate Deueloþn1,ent,

Shøoxíng Right: Prouiding water to itnþrouisbecl ttu"al ateas.

I@ Septenlber 7997 TÃE

GORRf,SP0IIDDII|T

IIow Sondhi got it wrong

lack of seasoned jor-rrnalists on the m gazrne.

Pelhaps tl'ìe most pertinent

fol the fact that the Asian Wall Street Journøl has ah-eady spent 20 years

example of this was the appointment of Sergei Khr-ushchev, son of the long

by a US media giant, Dow Jones & Co., that was able to sLrstain serious

dead Soviet leader, to u.r'ite on Russian

investment.

affairs. The younger Khrushchev did

Not to rlention the existence of a

his reporting fi'om his home in

scole of city papel's and city business

' Asiaweele's 1975

journals - from Tokyo to Manila wlijch cover their respective cities quite wel1, thank you very much.

earnest proposal, but

rnore serious management problems.

Paul eventually decamped to Bangkok to launch a books division. Sondhi then hired FCC member Jim Rohwer, a former seníor staffer at Tbe Economist

Even Sondhi's attempt to launch a regional magazine aimed at the affluent overseas Chinese is said to be foundering. Reports are that 7he Cbinese, a slick, lavishly produced

O'Neill,

The tou gh

yeals after the Thai media magnate plÌt'\Xi estern publishers on notice that

his company was leady to take them all on, the former journalist's empire appears to be in telminal decline.

He has just sold out his interests in a regional satellite TV venture for about US$160 million, all of which is expectecl to go lowards paying rnajor' cleditors.

InJune, citing "serious short-term financial difficulties resulting from the

From a marketing point of view, his publications seem to offer only one "unique selling proposition" that only Asians can report accurately on Asia, It is a concept that neither readers or advertisers have embraced.

Sondhi, or his advisers, never seemed to have grasped that the majolity of readers of such'Westernowned publications as Asiaweek, the Asia.n Wøll Street Journal, and the Før Eøstern Economic Reuiew are, rn fact, Asians.

downturn of the Thai economy",

Sondhi suddenly closed

his company's flagship regional newspaper, the Asia Times - less than 18

months after launching

It vzas onl¡z at thre last rr1inute that someone rernerr-rt>ered tl-re rfrì.a.ga-zirte itself. À4inions scurried off to solrrce sorne 150 quarehor-lse copies

it at an

announced cost of US$20 million.

At tlie time, he tolcl his editors: "Don't wony about the rnoney. I have long pockets " But now nearly 100 angry journalists, unpaid for three months, await a promised re-launch andwonder': Is Sondhi's empire over?

Even as most of Asiø Times' staff have decamped from their Bangkok

office for jobs elsewhele, in Hong Kong staff at Asia, Inc. - the regional business magazine which Sondhi launched in 7992 - also remain unpaid. And most of the rnagazine's original staff have left the company.

As foundel of the ManagerMedia Group, a Bangkok-based publishing house, Sondhi seems to be a man of good intentions plagued by bad advice plovidecl by expensively bad

founding editor, the late Michael a New Zealander, wrote it.

Two decades later, that perceptive Kiwi is gone. Today, Asiaweela's editorial stance has not been affected in the least by the factthat the editor' today is an

American Iady,

advìsels.

founding editor, FCC mernber

some of his edit-

n'redia giants, Time

orial staff severely

\Øarner Fromarcader's

Anthony Par-rl, an amiable Australian, had spent much of his career editing the venerable Reader's.Digest.

wanting when he discoveled tl'iat

Paul's early editorial ideas included such gee-whizz Digest style

took three to eight

dentist waiting-room fodder as stories which cliscussed the effects of building a dam across the Taiwan Strait or digging a cana). across the Malay

print.

Peninsula.

Paul's two assistants hailed fi'om

Cololado and Texas respectively.

Likewise, the magazine' s first publisher was a formel London ad salesman, Peter Kennedy.

The style-over-substance theme, which became a halLnark atAsiaInc., began at the magazine's lavish launcl'r

parties, which were held in Hong Kong, Singapole and Bangkok. At the Hong Ko ng gala, held at the Island Shangli-La hotel, no amount of money was sparedto impress the neady 2,000 The food, the wine, the thousands of fi'esl'i flowers in a logo design ancl

only media empire through such

even the live bilds were a big hit. It was only at the last minr-rte that someone lemembeled the rnagazine itself. Minions scr-rrried off to sotuce sor-ne 150 warehouse copies which were distl'ibutedto son'ie of the guests wl-ro had not by this time departed.

Accusations of over-staffing and overpaid senior executives continned, but the strongest complaint was the

Tf,E C0RRf,SP0lfIlEIfT Seprember. 1997

and the magaztne

itself is now owned by that

fortnightly, But Rohwer found

glrests.

information from "Asian-only outlets", he also seems unable to staff his publications with the promised Asian journalists who would give readers theil unique perspectives.

to convert the magaztne to a

Asia, Inc. was slrpposed to be a highly innovative, energetic, "breakthe-mould" bnsiness read. But its

He even failed to see the irony of having to make his case for his Asian-

friendly non-Asian platforms as CNN International, Time and Newsutee le.

No only has Sondhi failed to convince regional readers to buy their

it was not

penned by an Asian. The magazine's

Americanintended

'Tn. knives are out for the 5o-yearI olci Sonclhi Limthongkul. Five

mission

stâtement was "to 1'eport accurately and fairly the affairs of Asia . . . to see the wolld frorn an Asia prospective, to be Asia's voice in the worlcl". An

Over the last 18 months the n-øgazine has been plagued by still

Connecticut, USA.

lfl-re Tll.al rrrogurl' s rc>llercoaster ride as a charnpion of "Asian jor-rrnalisrrr" seerrLs to l>e a.t'¿,n end- Sterzen Knipp sa)rs Sondkri '\ /as rrrisguided

carving out this niche for itself backed

regional new s magazine Asiawee /a w as lar-rnched with essentially the same raison d'être.

most \Øestern of

perspective

articles typically

months to

'!(iestern - what lnattefs most in journalism is that

see

To shake up this soporific situation, Rohwer began to l'ecruit his own editors,

the reporting is as accurate and un-

14,\tlgt|¡¿,

biasedas hurnanly

0

possible. And that the analysis of the issues covered is

ë

telling the existing =

ones that they would each have to apply for their

-

whether Asian or

both acute

q

Sot'tclhi: "Dotx't uotry abou.t tbe mone),"

It

own jobs. Morale plunged in Sleepy Hollow. Sondhi stepped in. A management disagleement flared.

Rol-rwer walked.

As we go to print, yet another FCC mernbe r, the magazine's former roving editor, seasoned journalist Bill Mellor, might be just the man to save Asiø, Inc., though it might be too late for anyone to do the job.

Meanwhile, in Bangkok

a

skeleton staff works on a thin website velsion of the Asia Times, updating it once a week. Most of the paper's most senior staff, rnany recrr-rited from

Hong Kong's EasTen'¿ Express, see Sondhi's declaration of a relaunch "in 60 to 90 days" as a traditional Asian face-saving gesture.

Sondhi's idea to launch a r-egional paper might have been brilliant if not

Chinese-language monthly produced in Hong Kong is having such trouble

attracting readers that it might well undergo a drasfic language change fi'om Chinese to English.

Just as

Tb e

Undoubtedly, Asia's own media

Europe ø,? newspaper

abor,rt what the Greeks are up to, and

no Scot gives a hoot about the Hungarians, so Filipino-Chinese have little comÍron interest with Thai-Chinese; nor do Í7any affairs. And, if they are that broadminded, they will almost certainly follow their interests in the local English-language media.

Sondhi Limthongkul's idea that only Asians can report on Asia well is hardly new. Twenty years ago the

matters not

the least where the leporter''s mother' happened to be living at the time she gave birth.

will matule and develop to its full potential. But if they rush to give

flopped because few Germans care

Indonesian-Chinese concern themselves with Hong Kong's social

and

illuminating.

Asians their "own voice" before the inclustry has the ability to delivel on that promise, their efforts wiil be selfdefeating. Mixing reality with illusion and peppeling rnastheads with fake names is not the answer.

The fixation with politically

correct bylines to seil papers is a foolish miscalculation, even when made by a lnan as intelligent as Khun Sondhi undoubtedly is.

Steuen

journalist

Knipþ is a freelance

@ Septenrber' 7997 TÃÉ C0RRESPONDXIIT

The mud-huttefs'

teapafi

On the frontline in Afghrar-ristan Fergal I(earte, vzl-ro, until last montl-r qzas basecl in Hong I{ong as tl-re BBC's Asia Bureau chief, found a telTrporary l-ror-rre arrol1g tkre scorpions T I

woke up this rnolning drrsry, stiff.

htrngry an<ì thirsry ancl realisecl that Jonno's bug had made a longfeared migration. On my arm I could see and feel a patchwork of little red bites that began just above the elbow and went all the way dou,n to the fingeltips. So fal I've counted 35 of thern. Tl-re itchiness is indescribable.

It responds to no known medication.

Jonno, a cameraûìan wilh

prisoner whom, out of pity, they've adopted, givinghimthe job of keeping the place as clean as nature and the presence of a large group of men would allow.

The pr-isoner is delighted with this arrangement, it keeps him out of jail and if he behaves, he'll be given a job in the army, for he is yolrng, not more

than 20, and lather confused.

One evening asJonno was playing one of his interminable disco records

on the portable CD player we Lrad blought with us the officer in charge of the building called the prisoner over. "Now you dance," he said to us.

Jonno obliged with a few steps and the major laughed. "Yon see," he said

to the Taliban plisoner, "there's nothing wrong with dancing and

movements;there is Daoudwho came back from America to see if he could

insidious dust clouds over us again.

Then thele are the insects, the biting bed bugs which first attacked

band necessitates regular excttrsions athours of the dayanclnight. The ntns are an inevitable part of travelling in this part of the world, more especially if there's a wat going on.

To try and avoid becotning re'.rlly sick we must boil and filter all of our

help his coLlntly recover frorn war and

laughed.

That's the light-hearted side of Club Golbahar. Now for the

grimmer details. For a start, there is the dust that covers everything and everyone.

Living in a mud hut in the blazing temperatures of high summer, this isn't surprising but

*

enough, Frenchie; ancl my two BBC colleagues, Fred Scott from California and Joan Chang from Singapore. \7e are a multicultural little

group, crammed in together into this small hut in the village of Golbahar close to the latest of Afghanistan's fiontlines.

Now I've stayed in some fairly basic accommodation in my time blrt Club Golbahar, as we've narned it, defies grading. In the otherñvo rooms are sevelal soldiers from the arn-ry c>f Ahmed Shah Masoocl ancl a T'.rliban

it is, to put it mildly, aggravating.

minutes of cleanliness before the d.ust clot'Lds ouet"

LLs

'!(l'e're covered

in it from

morning up until evening when we wade into lhe r-iver to wash. 'ùØrenched away frorn the brotherhood

of extremism, he's struggling to come

world in which women are allowed to walk in the street ancl go to school and work in the fields.

I think he is loneiy for his family.

One evening, rny colleagues founcl him behind the building clying, not a typical gesture in heavily tnacho Afghanistan. \Øhen they passed he

Jonno and have since migrated to the rest of. Thele are the armies of flies which cover oLlr food and our faces. At night we cover ou1'heads with or-rr shirts so that we won't wake

covered his head with the blanket tllat is his sole lemaining possession.

up to find that our faces have become the Heathrow Airport of the local fly

to terms with

THE CORRESPONIIEI{T Scptenber- 1997

a

.ioy of multicultural liuing: "Teryor that we tuill encoLlnter one of tbeses uicious insects"

Unfol'tnnately the regularity of diarrhoea amongst our happy little

and the major clapped and

as Jonno, there's a $ photographer from Flance þ whom s/e call strangely *

Tbe

Tlien we enloy a few minutes of blessed cleanliness before the

Jonno's disco prance, he smiled

off before they discover

the tastier pal'ts of our bodies.

I arn writing this on the floor of a rrud hut which I'm sharing with four- other people and countless insects. As well

rr'

what can be rustled up from the market.

There is, thankfr-rlly, a plentiful supply

prisoner began to imitate

arrls in an effort to kill

LIrern

I

community. And of course I couldn't forget to mention the.scorpions. This being high and dry territory there are huge numbers of them.

Tl're Afghan soldiers find them greatlyamusing. One oftheirfavourite galnes is to hold them up in front of oul faces or hurl them at us in the dark ,ust to watch us shriek and jump. All good, clean Afghan fr-rn. Our greatest terror is tl-iat we will encounter one of these vicious insects as we're crouched over the hole in the ground that is our' toilet. To get to it we must descend the steep stairs into the riountainside. It is a dark, dank stomach-tr-rlning place and aboutwhich the less said the better.

enjoying yourself." Soon the

Associated Press TV, was the lir'.ct to be attacked, bitten in the dead of night. He has now suggested we douse petrol on ou1'

a v)

water. It's a tedious chore andwith tl're heat, we re constrming vast quantitie.s of water. For food we're dependent on

of tomatoes, onions, aubergines and potatoes and these, supplemented by various tins we have blought with us, keep hr.rnger atbay.It's not gourmet cooking, especially with me as chef, but after a day at the frontline one is genelally so exhausted that anything that tastes rernotely edible is quickly wolfed down. tùØe

have accumulated quite

a

l'etinue: there isJamsha, the translator who drearns of escaping to America; there is Farine, the secret policeman who chops our vegetables each night

while keeping a close eye on

or.rl'

now guides joulnalists around the frontline.

Daor-rd is a rare hnman being, a det'ent conrpassionate man in a tirne and place lr4rere these qualities are tragtcally lacking. And, there is the major, who urants to get to Kabr-rl so that he c¿rn see his wife and three

photographs and I showed him a photo of my wife and child, and for' a while we were sad together'.

"Do you think we'll get to Kabul soon?" he asked me. I told him l was slrre we would but I don't know if he really believed me. In this war people have their dreams but each day they recede - they slip away incrementally until all that is left is the illusion, and robbed of substance, it too eventually disappears.

But that is sad talk and our days in Club Golbahar haven't been sad. \Øe've laughed gfeaf deal ancl I've

^ new friends. So made some good tonight after flying into Pakistan where I'll enjoy a bath, dinner and a good night's sleep between clean sheets, I'11 send this message to Jonno, Frenchie, the majol and Daoud: "Good night boys, wishing you were here."

Tbis ørticle wq.s originally broaclcast on From Our Own Colrespondent on tbe BBC World Seruice

T@

little boys. He showed me their September. 7997 THE

CORRXSPONIIENT

I ,l

'--k?vrN

)zc

//

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-.,.

", li

i'Ña-LAIR | ¡ ¡l'r o+ llË \{'

I r¿'-- :q7

- \Tl?\.' '' i'u-"''ì'

ll

f<-'

1

--*r1

L,'- '=

I

i

Pam Williartrs'

atthe - The FCC and

J\

FCC

.-.^,

f\ 't\.,r

its members, March to May, 1997

f)r'rri.rg the months of September and October Pam'llilliam's sketches of lJ the FCC, the Club's Handover events and speakers, and the members

9.

themselves, will be on sh<¡w in the Main Bar. In the 27 yearc since graduating frorn Manchester with deglee in graphic design, Pam has worked in Eulope and in New York at everything from illustrating books and maps, creating paintings and animated titles for television. Pam first came to Hong Kong for' a holiday in early 7996 and was immediately struck by the challenge presented in recording the events, energy and people of Hong Kong during the return to

I

Æ

s

t

China.

J

Pam returned to Hong Kong in September lastyear with a commission for the China Club from David Tang and a brief from the British Forces to record their withdrawal. An introduction by Clare Hollingworth to the FCC got Pam started on a ploject within a project. Since Lord Deedes' visit to the club in March of this year,Pam has been sketching cameos throughout the club, and more than 40 of these make r-rp the exhibition. These and others will be included in the Handover collection, "Hong Kong Today", that Pam plans to be exhibit in London latel this year.

.,|

1!!7

,

1. Ronnie Ling & friends 2. Kevin Sinclair

3. Christine Loh 4.Pa:t:J Bayfield 5.

!

4.

) i¡;.

-il:,Í" "0'

r \\^. r'l\\

.\l

t

'1

TB r-n. j

Tf,E CORRf,SPONDDNI September

\

!

Afihul Hacker

6. Dl Marc Faber 7. FCC Barman 8. Anthony Lawrence at home 9. CIarc Hollingworth

September 7997 TÃj, CORRXSP0II|IIENT

''.

(-

,l-

Nine days that

i

\ ,-llÇ

,/'

l t

t

i ¡i, ,ti.r,"ç'l f-Au ' l:l/-

shookmywodd FCC Board rlrernl>er I(arin l\da-l-rrrströrrr toc¡k sb< Beijing journalists on tl-re 12ress tril> of a lifetirrre - and sr,rnzirzed por Hong Kong hacks meclia I ;unkeLs rnay be no big deal, but

of north-of-the Shenzhen River Chinese press they certainly are. Although media trips abroad are for- scoles

1-

becoming an increasingly standard PR tool in China, they retain strong

allure /

-

^ less especially for those

privileged reporters who have spent a career's worth of their lives hanging

çoßootl fAll I

alound in the trip queue

13.

They also have

submitting passports, supporting credentials and reams of fulther documentation to the respective embassies via the various ¡'¡proper

castle

Disneyland, doesn't want to go again.

Mr Temper sulks off to sleep. Finally

channels" couid begin.

Visa issuance can

- and usually does - develop into a saga of epìc

arrive at destination. Group concludes day in transit with weil-earned cognac.

proportions. In oulcase, with minutes to spare allbr-rt one of ourseveninvitees were able to secure the coveted visa stamps, and within hours of the last

DayTwo: rùØeather

Bavarian countryside.

a

Most declare want to buy house, move to Bavaria, \Øorrying trend this eady

in trip. Numerous photo

stops. Arrive

with the 'ùØangs" travel

Neuschwanstein.

restlessly

members

-

ßRIÊN SEfTìÉ.S rÀ HÚ

u)oÛLO

Ê,ArßËRì

company-

not charmed by fact queues exist in countries

other than China. From depths of throne room, hear voice, "Karin?" Old school mate not seen nor

whir lwind global tour for elite-ish press

embassy visil we were winging our

(they all accepted - big face) which took in HQ in Germany, a toul of the new Metcedes M-Class vellicle plant

way to Getmany.

heard from in 18 years.

Tells me I look same, introduces me to her two teenage children. Feel old. Castle duly visited, group scarfs down lunch,

Day One:

boat jousting festival. Company dinner,

anyone eise, orchestratecl

I

a

recently nine-day

Press get tbe scoop

& Clement Browne 11. Emily Lau

72. MartinLee

THD C0RRISPOII|IIENT Septen'rber 1997

16'

ploceed to Ulm - site of strange local

Arrive Germany to driving rain

Guests discuss shortcomings of meal

loudly in front of hosts. Say goodDay Three: Rude awakening

srnall achievement in itself. \Øitl'i these

Evelybody thrilled. Have arranged excursion to Neuschwanstein, Mad Ludwig's bízarre Bavarian castle, during time

in hand, the lengthy procedure of

zone adjustment phase. Try to explain

Mercedes clealer in Bevedy Hills before a direct retr.rrn

Trayling

on no emissions uehicle

andL2 degrees. \Øelcome to Europe's idea of summer. Host tells group we have two-hour drive to hotel still to go.

Alabama, and finally

13. Gor-clon 14. Bill Deedes &John Giannini 15. Tony Nedderman & friends 16. Brianjeffries

corlalled

sponsored ovelseas trips rnr-rch as they would a rnorsel from a dim sum tray.

Not wanting to be outdone bythe SØangs or

in the US and a test drive of the car in

10. IanJordan, Ross Cornell

in

at rùØait

"English" tourline. Group

choose from the various

(tPoßl A:rß ?RcrÍrc çPÂú

improving, drizzle with

teases of sun. Group ready to explore

cadre-ish press corps which has already b.een spoiled by countless companies' "keep up

foreign

familiar Disneyland terms.

Make unsuccessful attempt to explain.

celtain value to the more

offers. Its

in

One journo says has been to

a

flight to Beijing.

Our-

first task s/as getting

invitations issued to each journalist from both Germany and the US - no

weekencl

night.

to drab skies.

Visit research and development centre.

Group baffled by combination of German and Chinese technospeak.

Septenber. 7997 TÃE

CORRXSPONDENT

Lunch at R & D centre is scene of tantrum by Mr Temper. Host takes guest out back for quiet exchange of views. Guest shuts r-rp for a few hours. Proceed to HQ for introduction to New Electric

with company officials. Group asks more questions. lflith little time to spare, dash to airpolt for flight to Frankfurt. Arrival uneventful, check

visa. For srnall fee (US$95), can apply

for an amendrnent, "tùØould you like lo?" Consider saying "No, I want to leave him here." Form scribbled, amendment granted. Gather luggage, flln to customs.

Journalist delayed fol further questioning by customs officer

Car (NECAR) and New Electric

Bus (NEtsUS). Two-hour briefing by assistant to company's CEO, who attempts to explain company's

new structlrre. Proceed to hotel, checkin. Group rushes to adjacent shopping mall.

Group member complains "I haven't had rice in two days",

so clinner in

have a Mr Vegetarian who requires a sepafate menu.

Company executives join full,

distributor

into airport hotel. Strong suggestion from Mr Temper that we go downtown for dinner. $Øith early flight to the

merry table. Mr Temper decides this is a good time to expound on "what he

really wanted to say". Listen with strained sympathy to catalogue of injustices. On conclusion of meal some group members want to go downtown.

Professional translator's rendition: "They want to go to a dance haIL"

Day Four:

Reluctantly refrain from presenting bill to his news paper. Tour Hollywood, Mann's Chinese Theatre. Out-of-

drink. Arrive Huntsville. Never

Nashville musician on banjo and Israeli journaiist on guitar. Highlight of day. Reluctantly, move on to last stop, oldest town in Alabama, for tea

gone

in and press conference followed by dinner at Space Centre. To dismay of group outdool dinnel delayed due to rain.

Gourmet meal wasted on jetlagged press party which disappears prior to

US next morning, suggest otherwise.

"OK, you don't need to go, just give us

keynote speech.

the money" is response. Insist on

Day Six:

Sindelfingen, MB's main carplant. Visit construction site ofnew passenger car development centre and listen to two hour safety presentation followed by Q & A session. Information overload already reaching danger level. Break

Host

between 5.00 and 5.30 am.

impromptu jam session with

and scones in grand mansion cotnplete

with hiled southern belle. Dinner at historic old train depot transformed into blues club especially fol M-Class

for lunch in executive dining room

umbilicallyto mall. Group shops, Host buys sunscreen, proceeds directly to pool. Depart for local baseball game.

From private box, try to explain intricacies of spol-t to perplexed group which concentrates on chili dogs and

Day Eight: On home stretch. Driver

-

uia Aucklancl

accompanies j ournalist with dubious visa to srnall waiting room. 45 nail-biting, clock-

watching minutes later, journalist ledinto still smaller

Touring construction site of tbe new Benz Design Deueloþment Centre

TEE CORRf,SPOI{DDNT Seprember 1997

Day Seven:

crew car with translator loses route one mile out. Suggest I lead first leg.

suitcases arrive intime forearly charter'

Successful arrival at firststop. Attempt crash course in American road signage,

Airiines ground agent helpfully inforrns me

etiquette, and safety. Become navigator for caravan Discover at

unlikelywe will make flight.

Having noticed that the

second stop second car has r.r-Ìn into something sharp. Forcefully suggest less macho driving style. Group issued

Chinese person cannot

impressed. On to Beverly

Gorgeous sunshine. Take double dose anti-stress vitamins. Group issued three M-Class cars fortest drive. Decide to go in caravan due to non-EngÌish speaking road sign reaclers. Canera

questioning. Delta

f<¡r

back to hotel.

Sultry southern weather. Missing

\ùTesteln-style dealersh ip

netwolk, alien concept in

China, Many questions.

Proceed to Univelsal Studios for private screening of Tbe LosI lT/orlcJ.

Group expl'esses

Class plant in Tuscaloosa. Camera crew goes into over-drive. Tour Visitor's Centre, complete with rnini-museum.

Jurassic Pør"k, The Lost World.display.

thlown off cliff by T-Rex. On to Universal City \Xzalk, Gladstone's, for dinner. Group pr-rzzled by so rnany fatbodies walking around with so little on. Long day ends, check

touchdown in San Francisco, hear name paged, meet friend. Happily co11apse.

why Melcedes linked up with

into hotel.

DayNine:

Karin Malntström is FCC Second Vice Presid,ent ønd Manager of Press at'¿d Public Reløtions, Merced.es

Sunday morning coming down.

Am informed by two gror-rp members

Photos by Karin Malmström

speak English, immigration

T-shitts, swinrning trunks for third

official summons me to translate. Journalist has

stop. An'ive miraculouslyintact. Group

bluegrass band plays among tall pines

to Birmingham hotel connected

business visa, needs press

scheduled. One minLrte after

Mercedes-Benz

regret at Merc being

Explain M-Class featured in fihn. Asked

San

dealership. Introduce

flight to Birrningham. Visit new M-

dinosaurs. Lunch followed by visit to nearby sub-supplier of plant. Axles, etc, f iveting stuff. Group transported

goes jet skiing while Nashville

bee-line for Planet Hollywood fol harnburger

Hills

airport, emerges with bag loads of goodies in time to cram same into luggage. Check flight times. Group Francisco cancelled. Book on earlier flight. Say hasty but meaningful goodbye to group, which expresses hearfelt thanks for fabulous trip, make exit. All flights to San Francisco delayed. \Øait in bar for over an hour, flight finally departs same tine as one originally

heart-to heart talk. Malor breakthrough

cultural relations. Listen to music, play a feu, frames of pool. Group appears to have left. Host makes way

Nordic areas. Journalist appeased, buys case. Group reqlrests stop at cavernous stlip mall department store en route to

Beijing flight OK, host's via

p1'ogfamltte. During cocktail time, beckoned aside by Ml Temper for

in

in soft gel

Make flights with seconds to spare. MrTemper opts out of

lunch. New hunk in TV series Baytuatcb giving autoglaphs. Group totally

Chinese/American/German cross-

Nor-wegian cod liver oi1

takes wrong rolrte to airpor-t.

gloup to visit relatives, glrshes

intelnational press test drive

shop, make detour. Shop only has

that most cod liver oil comes from

hotel.

Tul'Litxgs

Cannot retlrrn to China without American cod liver oil. Somehow find

capsules. Crisis. Nutritionist explains

thanks for fabulous trip, bids farewell, Rest of group heads for L.4.. Upon arrival, make

touchdown all but one entry granted.

Main body of group proceeds to connecting flight gate. Host

room

blue request from Ml Blue Movies to find cod liver oil.

Kcu'ítt Malmström 6tt the M Class Ficldle

beer. Mutiny occurs during fourth innings. Return to

Outittg to

pay-

per-view adult nrovies

retires exhausted.

Day Five: Checkineightpeople and 11 pieces ofluggage on flight to Huntsville, -\labama v ia Ãtlanta. Brief group on US Immigration and Customs. On

of

out.

convince him vehicle should not be handled like Beijing jeep. Host sends assistant to translate for offroad testing and borrows fiddle for

Finally some sorely needed

vitamins. Early departure for

of hotel. Check

more democratic group decision. Consensus determines we eat in the hotel. Group departs independently f or evening activities. Host

Host's translation, "Please lead the way to the red light district. " Host retires for evening, no questions asked.

sunshine. Take anti-stress multiple

Discover one has enjoyed

towhyhe's in a hurry. Make it to gate some two tenr-rinals away at last boarding call.

Collapse in uncomfortable seat, hoarsely request stiff

walkabout. To hotel for checktLuo

places" open late in vìcinity

stop ior off-road test. Prior to testing group deems off-road track tame.

as

suitcases have ind out that carc baue

group frolics. Move on to foulth

a

stores and "inlerestìng

US$100 worth

good. Elation shortlived. Four

restaurant. Itturns outwe also

that tlrere are

s blood pressure t'ises incrementally while tlanslating for Mr Temper as attempts made to

thought it would look this

Ch inese

few 24-hotr

blowing in cool bleeze by lake. Host soaks up rays and solitude while

@

Septen.rber'

7997 TllE

CORRXSPOI{IIEI{T

The PARTY SEASON is almost here!

And that means finding the PERFECT VENUE fol tl'iose special social or business occasions Main Dining Roonl. \Øhy book your next fr-rnction at a hotel wlien you can throw your'do' in unique setting that's atVkal yet COZY- just light for any gathering.

The FCC will take care of all the details - with

a

originality, professionalism and attitude.

You simply supply the guests - friends, boss or clients!

No matter whether it's a ladies' hinch, formal corporate affar, cocktail or birthday party, our new Executive Chef Stephen \Øarren can tailor an exclusive menu and selected wines to individual tastes and budgets. \Øe'll make sure youlparty is a memorable 'happening', not just another engagement to tick off the guests' list. \Øe can help yor-r with party ideas! Hele

ar-e

main bar is certainly the I'realt of the club and one of the most populal and eclectic meeting places in Asia, the club's dining and function facilities offer a wealth of enteltaining options. The Main Dining Room and adjacent glassed Verandah area feature the club's golumet dining and are ideal for formal business entertaining, or a quiet dinner a deux. They ale also avallable for private fttnctions as well as the club's own special events ancl theme nights.

As well as its public areas the FCC offels the use of two large interconnected function rooms - the Albert Room and

fltrghes Roont

the Hughes Roorn. Both rooms are eqr-ripped for few:

anniversaries......corporate functions......cigar evenings......birthdays......ladies'iunch......Private Theme Evenings - we can take you and your guests on a culinary trip to the Calibbean, Arctic Circle, for a cruise in the Mediterranean, or anywhere on the planet for an evening...... cocktail parties......weddings......sporting events......private wine tastings......bachelor and hen parlies......book launches.....,

rHE CORRDSP0NIIEI{T Seprember 1997

\ùØhile the

conferences, cocktail parties and private dining, and these facilities ale lrsed extensively by the mernbership, to uùich they ale exclusively available.

Don't wait r-rntil that last resort becomes your only resort. Book youl personalised events at the FCC now, while openings are still available for the busy months ahead. Call tl're FCC office on 2527 1511 for cletails.

T^, :=ùp' *-t.iåt nctiot'¿

Main Dirtit'tg

Septerrrber'

I'

Room.

7997 TÃÊ

C0RRXSPOI\IDINT

T

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This classic piece of Hacker memorabilia now available directly from the FCC

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STEFAN REISNER - freier Konespondent für deutschsprachige Medien Tel : 2982 0989 Fax: 2982 6048 E-mai I :sreisner @ asiaonli ne.net CHARLES WEATHERILL -Writer, Literary Services, Researcher Telz 2524 1 901 pager: 73OO 7373 E-mail: charlesw@ netvagitor.com STUART WOLFENDALE - Writer and columnist Tel: 2804 1925 Fax: 2804 1975 Los Angeles (1-818) 405 0879

JENNIFER BOWSKILL - Specialising in podraits,fashion,events, Commercial & Coporate photography TeUFax. 2547 6678 Pager:71168968 #8838 BOB DAVIS - Advertising, corporate and editorial photography

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EDWARD PETERS - Features, Travel, Profiles, Research. Many Asia Pacific photos. Tel: 2328 2553 Fax:23282554 E-mail :edpeters @ netvigator.com

Hong Kong Trade Development Council 38/F., Office Tower, Convention Plaza, 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: 2584-4333 Fax 2824-0249 E-ma¡l: hktdc@tdc.org hk Web S¡tet htlp://www,tdc.org hk

997O

KEES Photography -- News . features . Online TeL2547 9671 Fax. 2547 8812 E-mail: vovokees@asiaonline.net DAVID THURSTON - News, people, wacky digital portraits for 1997 Tel:2524 4381 Fax: 2525 0774 E-mail: thurston@asiaonline.net HUBERT VAN ES - News, people, iravel, commercial & movie stills Tel: 2559 3504 Fax: 2858 1721 E-mail: vanes@asiaonline.net

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BY FAR THE BEST PIZZA,IN TOWN SHOW YOUR FCC CARD WHEN ORDERING TO ENJOY A SPECIAL DISCOUNT

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Rental starts from 2 weeks plus.

Call Soni 90828097

it's back again!

Following on the success of last year's Guam Island Fiesta, Chef Ronnie Guillermo and the Island Fantasy Dancers are heading back to the FCC for another sense-sational culinary and dance extravaganza at the Main Dining Room on Thursday, October 9.

The Island Fiesta Dinner Show, hosted by the Guam Visitors Bureau, Pacific Islands Club and Continental Micronesia Airlines, will also launch a month-long Island Food Fiesta in the Main Dining room. as the exotic food and entertainment there will be a chance to win a trip for two, flying Continental Micronesia, to Guam staying at the Pacific Islands Club, with the option of a golf, fishing or diving tour. Other great prizes will also be offered throughout the duration of the promotion.

As well Møcqu comes to Hong Kong

tsALT ARTWORI<S

VírhúO7arí.e

MACAU INFORMATION BUREAU

&

So let your hair down and experience a little island living. Book now and don't miss out on what was one of last year's, and will be one of this year's,

MACAU TRAVEL TALK

íþm,y for Room 307, Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-44Wyndham Street' Centfal Tel: (852) 2869-1862 Fax: (852) 2536-4244

l1

ome¿

anù

Ç

ærd.e,w

6 Y t't'utV Llln*, Lø¡/ ? í,{1ø. Roøàr, S'lvlt'w Td,t 2606 7093 Fa¿¿¿ 26OI ++85

leal ]ooil

great events.

Guam is the gateway to the exotic islands of Micronesia and is an easily accessible escape from Hong Kong's daily grind. Treat yourself to the luxury of 5-star hotels, white sand beaches, superb golf courses, great diving, fishing and all manner of watersports. Continental Micronesia is offering a special weekend pctckage to FCC members from the month of September to December 15. Prices start at just HK$3,400, including airfores, 3 nights'accommodation and airport transfers.

For more information on FCC Guam Holiday packages ring Douglas King, GVB Hong Kong, on25221386

[oat ]un

7.30 114, The lUall, Pacific Place SSQueensway, HongKong

FCC Main Dining Room $250 per head

284ffif)O Ocean Terminal Ila¡üourCity, Kowloon 273,6-6ttt 2OO

THD CORRISPOIIIItE!{T Septernber 1997

ph, Thursday, October 9 Call 2521

Guam Visitors Bureau Setbi sion Bísit, n Qua han

L51 1

for reservation

Continental Micronesia

China Mission off to Mexico

What's cooking his month I'd like ro re11 you something about one of the passions of rnylife - cheese. I've always enjoyed cheesebutI didn'treallygetto r-rnderstand it until a few years ago when an Australian pal of mine another chef as it happens - and I stafied meeting up over bottles of white

port. The arrangement was that he supplied the port and I supplied the cheese, and that way I started to experinent a little, I developed the interest further' while working in an English colrntly house restaurant. Tl-ìere I could order cheese from a van that drove round the colìntry with a varied selection stored in the back. You could try all the

kinds

and sample one of them one week and then, if you liked it, place an ordel the next.

It was and is a very interesting different

time in Britain for cheese. That selection used to include local goat's cheeses

which legally weren't e\/en supposed to be made. Buying local speciality cheeses in Britain is almost a black market arrangement. If people know you're in the market, then they'll find you and let you know what they have.

It's

a

very closed market for the chosen

few - and it's all good fun.

Now that you can buy food from

anywhere

in the world a lot of

seasonal and local aspects of

it

the have

become obscured, but that's not so much the case in the world of cheese.

Diffelent places do diffelent sryles well

and different cheeses are'gt-ro<ì at different times of year'. I'm tlying to build up a really strong selection for the FCC Club. At the moment our board stresses cheeses from the British Isles

I'm palticularly interested in Scottish and lrish ones which are more diverse than Englisl'i cheeses which tend to be qr-rite hard.

-

My all-time favourite, which we have in stock at the moment, is the Cashel Blue from Scotlancl. There's

another I'm trying to get sent over called lanarkshile Blue which is also rathel special. Others we have at the molnent include Shropshire Blue, Somerset Brie and CornishYarg. That man named Gray who just tnrned his name backwards when he christened the cheese. It's a middle ofthe load cheese, notstrongly last one is made by

a

flavoured but with quite a lot of character to it.

If you go into most restaurants in Hong Kong the cheese selection is pretty limited. Even in the good places yor-r're only going to get the better'

The Trade Commissioner of Mexico, Federico Chavez,

hosted a cocktail party for

the Hong Kong Clrina Enterplise Association to

Zealand at the moment - the situation thel'e is a little similar to England and you can get some quite different things from the Noth and South Islancis.

A word abor-rt portions. I've heald people say that we're giving away a lot of cheese for the money, but you have to buy in quantity to ship, and I'd rathergive it away than wind up using it fol cooking - these cheeses are just too good to cook with. If everyone gets into

it

lobn Lenagb an, long-tinln

launch their official deìegation visit to Mexico.

Hong Kortg ntentber nc¡w liuing in Bangkok, ch'opped ilxto tbe Cbtb recently to c6ttcL) uþ uith oklfr4ends

Frcm left: the DepLLt! Cottsul-General of Mexico, Eduarclc¡ Roldan; Jobrtny Køm; Su.n Hangxbing; Mr Chauez; and FCC tne m

be

r At't totxio Rep

e res

as

as seriously then hopeftrlly we can

At the moment we're buying kilo lots, and as you can imagine that's a lot of servings of cheese. \(ze'11 be promoting what I think is se1l a 1ot.

5

c¡ne

ofthe best clieeseboalds intown in

a number of ways.

'SØe're

planning

a

cheese and wine, or perhaps port evening. Matching wine with cheese is more of an atf than yor-r might think.

Some red wine alglres with the cheese - with the ammonia in Brie fol example -

s ù

è È è Ê

Ken Belxnett a.nd Allen. Yourtgblood þerfornted an imþromptu duet-at the Ricksbaw Ch.tb rccentllt a belpít'rg bancL in the leitcberL dutlng the Greek Nigbt

and can give off some quite bad tastes.

I'll adrnit to being a bit of a cheese

fanatic, but try this cheeseboard and you wiil begin to get an idea of why.

Take a little time for some port and cheese at the end of dinner and find orìt what you've been rnissing.

known cheeses ancl they're mostly French or Swiss. \Øhat we offer is something fresh and, I think, rather

STOP PRESS

FCC/Guarn./Mlacaru

Judgment day for Daniel Fung

Golf Tournament Following the Guam Island

more interesting.

Fiesta dinner show on Thursday, October 9 at the FCC a combined team of tl'ie FCC Golf Society and

I'm looking at cheeses from New

the Guam media golfers have been

NOTICE TO MEMBERS It has come to the Board's attention that certain members are using the Club without paying the monthlydues, bytaking out "absentmembership." some have evenbeenbragging aroundthe bar, how they "beat" the system. The board does not condone this abuse and would like to remind members that absent membership can only be taken out by those who will be absent from Hong Kong for not LESS than 3 months. \X/hen the member returns, monthly dues will have to be paid. Any member caught abusing the system may lace expulsion from the Club THE CORRf,SPONIIEI{T Septeml¡er 1997

It ucts nentrljl the ltntclt tbat neuer was

waited

.

and

waited

.

invited to play in a special golf Tbey

tournament at the Macau Golf and Country Club on Sr-rnday, October 12. There will be a presentation

artd utaitedfor Solicitor-

Get'teral Dcuti.el Ftr.ng Wah-lein. C)ne of his senior latultets euett did. ct wcu11l-Llp ctct BLtt euentually Mr

dinner and show perfolr-red by Guam's Island Show Fzrntasy

Ftmg macle it bctck.fi'om the Cout of Appeal uthere lte had succeed.ecl in deflectit'tg a cballenge to the

legalitlt of tbe prouisional legislattne /fter a uoJ)age arotnld Chittct's legcil ltistoty - anclfuttu"e - Mt. È Flt.t'tg Íook qttestiotts.front Chtb ntentbets eager to 's õ þrcsent their cr.rgttnterxts on the issue of tbat clalt

\

Dancers following the tonlnament.

Price will be $ 1,000 all inclusive.

Fax Julian -Walsh at 2521 L978 for more details.

Septembel'1

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Member since: Age: Profession:

Nationality: Least likely to say: Most likely to say:

Scotland beat England.

Much younger than \ùØalter Gerard.

All around sport sponsor.

Just a wee boy from Glesgae.

I'll have a San Miguel.

If it's no Carlsberg ye can buy it yoursel, Jimmy.

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Venture t"yotrJ Àsia to tk" Pa"i{ic. À -h"1" new experiencer

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r,3IdOCl-13H.

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unique

awaits you on Glmrn, TuL"

"nltrrr", o{I {ot an action pu"lu"J L"liJuy on tLis Prci{ic kl.nJ prrrJis". Or touch Jo*r, u,.J sitrply ,.rn rnJ the ocean

r"lrr

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Lt".".r.

G..am prornises to tring out the test in yotr. C.11 the Guarn Visitors Bureau on

2522 1386.

Pbotograþbed by TenSt Duckbøm

sp.nsorec, TEE CORRESPOM)EI{T September' 1997

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Guam Visitors Bureau SetDision Bfsitan Auahan

GUA]VI

A P a.iÍi. kl

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