Feast Norfolk Magazine September 18 Issue 29

FORAgING ON ESSAY:

29

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NORFOLK

NEW LEASE OF LIFE FOR WYMONDHAM'SD QUEEN'S HEA

OINK!

D O O AM H W SH EC A L BE W E TH T H OR AT N AY IN ST E L A OT H

Free Inside:

01 8 ER 2

StIFFKEY

MARSHES RECIPES FOR

crumble,

taRt

+ cake!

G N I L E FE

R E N Y h c A i R w R o Y N A J mes to co

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...& Arthur Howell and his Pheasant Wellington recipe

Treat your Kitchen

Come and discover what makes Miele so special Miele is one of Europe’s leading manufacturers of premium domestic appliances with a reputation that’s unrivalled.

In Norwich, you’ll find a state of the art showroom like no other you’ve experienced. Gerald Giles is Norfolk and north Suffolk’s Miele Centre, with over 60 appliances on display.

You can experience live, working demonstrations by our friendly, knowledgeable staff of nearly every appliance type, from ovens to warming drawers, washing machines to dishwashers, coffee machines and everything in between.

We also offer a comprehensive installation and repair service, meaning customers are supported from selection and purchase to running and maintenance.

Miele appliances are designed, tested and engineered to last for up to 20 years and set the standards for durability, performance, ease of use, energy efficiency, design and service.

Treat your kitchen to the Best Home Appliance Brand on the market*. Ask us for a Demonstration today. * Which? *Which? named Miele thenamed Miele the Best Home Appliance Brand 2015 Best Home Appliance Brand 3 years running

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Tel: 01603 621772

Open Mon to Sat: 9am to 5:30pm

www.geraldgiles.co.uk

‘Strongly scored, beautifully designed, inventively choreographed, silkily danced’ Financial Times

Thursday 27 - Friday 28 September Eves 7.30pm, Mat Fri 1.30pm Tickets: £10 - £26 Book online: www.theatreroyalnorwich.co.uk T H E AT R E ST R E E T, N O RW I C H N R 2 1 R L

FEASTNORFOLKMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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E D I T O R ' S

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WE ARE BACK, refreshed and raring to go after our summer break so welcome to our September issue.

As usual, you’ll find plenty of our regular favourites - our restaurant reviews, chef profiles and gadget and gizmo suggestions plus a few unexpected extras as we strive to promote the best of the region’s food and drink.

A good place to start is our What’s On section which brims over with ideas on what to do and where to go, plus our news and gossip spread which has all the latest happenings.

Our lead feature catches up with Wells butcher Arthur Howell and his wife Liz, and we also hear daughter Alex’s plans, too. And we find out how the Saracen’s Head at Wolterton, near Aylsham, is back in business after a burst pipe caused extensive damage earlier this year.

We preview Norfolk Restaurant Week - which also includes Norwich Restaurant Week - and Emma Outten interviews Jay Rayner, that fearsome restaurant reviewer who comes to Norwich as part of a new series of events at The Assembly House.

Don’t miss our review of Retreat East near Ipswich, which is a new concept in farm share, while we also visit the Queen's Head at Wymondham which is a really great addition to the market town.

And find out how I spent my summer break - on a very pleasant cruise to the Scottish isles of Orkney and Shetland (with a quick jaunt to Bergen in Norway, too). It’s a hard job but...

Do keep in touch via Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and if you fancy subscribing, have a look online for full details.It is a great way of ensuring that you get your own copy of Feast Norfolk magazine each month!

Next month we’re looking at afternoon tea and the region’s microbreweries as Norwich Beer Festival once again takes place.

Happy reading!

SARAH HARDY, EDITOR sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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BERGEN, NORWAY

Sarah Hardy cruises to the Scottish islands of Orkney and Shetland, plus Bergen in Norway, gorging on fabulous seafood along the way

ABOUT US 05 Editor’s Letter WHAT’S ON 14 Keep up-to-date with our comprehensive What’s On guide to the region’s best events and activities 17 We hear who will be on the cookery demo stage at this October’s Porkstock, a family friendly food and drink festival in Norwich 19 We look ahead to Norfolk Restaurant Week, and sister event Norwich Restaurant Week, which will be bigger and better than ever this year!

20 Former England cricket captain Andrew Strauss arrives at Carrow Road this month 22 The news and gossip spread has all you could possibly want to know about what’s been happening on the foodie front

COVER STORY

90 Fruity fun with Ellen Mary as she tells us all about juicy apricots

FEATURES 44 This month’s photo essay focuses on forager and professional chef Simon Hunter Marsh, as he finds plenty to eat at Stiffkey salt marshes 52 We take a tour of the new look George Hotel, just off Norwich’s prestigious Newmarket Road

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EATING OUT 34 Mark Nicholls and his wife Sharon head to charming Wells for dinner at the Globe Inn 36 Emma Outten takes her mum for lunch at the revitalised Queen’s Head in Wymondham INTERVIEWS 8 Sarah Hardy meets Wells butcher Arthur Howell, head of the family firm, and hears about his five shops 28 Emma Outten chats to influential food and drink writer Jay Rayner before he closes the first Assembly House Food Festival this autumn REGULARS 33 Our new taste test features brownies, marmalade and more - and they are all produced in Norfolk!

40 Our chef spotlight falls on Daniel Trench of Briarfields Hotel in Titchwell, in North Norfolk 54 Free from recipe writer Sara Matthews has two recipes this month, including a fruity pud 58 The gadget and gizmo guide has a baking theme this month as the glut of apples and berries arrives 62 Joe Wicks and Jack Monroe are amongst those with new cookbooks out this month.

Find out more

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54 65 Find out about the leisure courses at City College, Norwich 94 This month’s Proudly Norfolk column focuses on Rebecca Mayhew of Old Hall Farm in South Norfolk RECIPES 12 Arthur Howell shares his Pheasant Wellington recipe with us, plus a tasty hake and chorizo dish 21 Enjoy Delia’s hazelnut shortbreads with raspberries 43 Daniel Trench from Briarfields Hotel in Titchwell, on the North Norfolk coast, offers us a seafood ceviche 54 Lucy Bartlett serves up a firm family favourite: apple tart 91 Ellen Mary creates poached apricots with vanilla ice cream and chocolate DRINK 74 Dare we say it? Try beer rather than wine with your food!

76 Andy Newman tells us how to pair wine and food in his latest column 79 Steve Hearnden heads to Spain for his latest wine recommendations

COLUMNISTS 51 Andrew Jones of Farmyard in Norwich and The Dial House in Reepham tells us what he is foraging for this month 57 Charlotte Gurney loves the harvest festival but is already thinking festive thoughts 60 Our vegan chef Julia Martin is busy restocking her pantry with this season’s glorious fruit and veg 61 Small business owner Elaine Reilly of Norwich’s Mustard Coffee Bar is loving the new season and the produce it brings 67 Roger Hickman answers your culinary questions and offers us a scallop recipe TRAVEL 86 Find out more about Retreat East, a new farm share concept in Suffolk

THE TEAM

Sarah Hardy, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Emma Outten, Deputy Editor emma@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Matt Custance, Hanneke Lambert, Mark Forder – Design studio@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Rachael Young Senior Account Manager | 07900 823731 rachael@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Diane Green Brand Manager | 07988 867483 diane@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

CONTRIBUTORS

GROW YOUR OWN 92 Rachel Birtwhistle shares her plans for storing all her produce from her bumper summer crop

Andy Newman, Ellen Mary, Rachel Birtwhistle, Elaine Reilly, Charlotte Gurney, Julia Martin, Steve Hearnden, Roger Hickman, Andrew Jones, Lucy Bartlett, Mark Nicholls, Sara Matthews, Keiron Tovell

COMPETITION 86 Win a break for two at the impressive Beechwood Hotel in North Walsham

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S P O T L I G H T

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RedCoat A FOURTH GENERATION FAMILY BUTCHER, ARTHUR HOWELL IS ONE OF NORFOLK’S GREAT CHARACTERS. SARAH HARDY MEETS THE MAN IN THE RED COAT AT ONE OF HIS WELLS SHOPS

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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VISIT

www.arthurhowell.com

You’ll often spot ARTHUR HOWELL or his daughter ALEX whizzing about pretty Wells on their bikes!

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Arthur, who was actually born above the shop, is rightly proud that his meat comes from within a 15-mile radius so traceability is all. ‘We try as hard as we can to be as local as possible. People are certainly more interested in provenance,’ he says, adding that the family firm has its own abattoir at the back of the shop, too.

With an eye to new business opportunities, Arthur has started to sell sheepskin rugs, putting the sheep’s coats to good use, and son-in-law Alex Smith supplies local farmers with cartridges for game shoots.

Towards the quay is the bakery, crammed with all manner of breads and cakes, all homemade, and it’s where you’ll be able to buy a hot bacon bap or maybe a hot chicken burger in a bap, too. ‘Our daughter, Alex, started it off 11 years ago and it does very well,’ says Arthur, adding: ‘We make up and sell picnic hampers from here and our deli which are really popular - for say a beach trip or maybe a concert at Holkham.’

Opposite is a fish shop, run by George Lynch, which opened in 2015. It’s where you’ll find masses of seasonal seafood, with mussels an autumnal hit. Add in oysters, cod, king scallops, hake, handmade Thai fish cakes and more.

And finally, towards The Buttlands, is the deli, set up about seven years ago. With Matt Heigham as manager, it is crammed with local produce such as Black Shuck gins, Candi’s Chutneys, Yare Valley Oils, Norfolk Honey, Whin Hill ciders and Norfolk Brewhouse beers.

Huge bowls of olives, Waveney Smokehouse fish and a counter displaying pork pies, Scotch eggs and steak and onion pies all caught my eye!

Arthur says: ‘We always like to hear from Norfolk producers as we are keen to support small, local businesses.’

Over the years, the business has won many awards, with Arthur singling out being Retailer of the Year in the 2016 Farm Shop and Deli Show Awards as one of his highlights. ‘ I’m a judge now so can’t enter again!’ he laughs.

With four shops in the favourite coastal town (and another in Burnham Market), Arthur, his wife, Liz, and daughter, Alex and her husband, Alex (yes, a bit confusing for gullible journalists like me) are kept very busy.

For a start there’s the flagship butcher’s shop on Staithe Street, which is really Wells’ high street. It’s a buzzy place, with a ‘proper’ butcher’s shop feel. Look out for the butcher’s block where staff prepare all meat and will cut joints to order. ‘We are a traditional butcher’s shop,’ Arthur says. ‘But we reflect the times and how people’s tastes have developed - we sell less offal these days, for example, and a lot more marinated meats for stir fries and barbecues.’

Recipes overleaf

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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He keeps himself busy away from the shops by hosting butchery demonstrations and is also on the organising committee of Wells Christmas Tide festival in December which is a great family friendly event, complete, of course, with Father Christmas’ arrival.

He and Liz enjoy eating out in the area, especially if Howell’s meat is on the menu! ‘There are so many great places in North Norfolk and we try to get round them all,’ says Arthur.

And the pair enjoy visiting other farm shops, delis and butcher’s shops, to see what others are doing. ‘That is always interesting, you can learn a lot,’ he says.

Arthur is a lovely gent, softly spoken yet clearly an astute businessman who employs around 20 people across the five sites. He is rightly proud of his family business - his dad, also called Arthur, now 98, still comes into the shop - and Arthur is clearly delighted that his daughter and son-in-law are part the team. And he mentions the sixth generation with a twinkle in his eye as Alex is expecting her first baby before too long. So the future is looking very secure, indeed!

"We always erlikes astowhee ararefrkeomen

Norfolk produc businesses." l ca lo l, al sm t or pp su to

HAKE WITH BUTTER BEAN AND CHORIZO STEW METHOD: 1. Put the sliced chorizo in a cold sauté pan and place it on a low to medium heat. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes turning occasionally, after this time remove the chorizo (leaving the chorizo oil in the pan) to an ovenproof dish, mix with the cherry tomatoes and a good twist of black pepper and put in an oven on a low heat. 2. Turn the chorizo pan up to a medium heat and lay the hake in it skin side down, do not shake the pan or try to move the fish for at least three to four minutes or it will stick and you won’t get crispy skin. 3. In a sauce pan, fry the diced vegetables and garlic in a little olive oil until softened (about 5 minutes) when soft add the white wine, passata, balsamic vinegar and oregano and cook for a further five minutes. Now add the butter beans and heat through, about two or three minutes more.

4. The hake should now be almost fully cooked through, so spoon the hot chorizo oil over the fish which will finish it cooking from the top (you could turn it over to finish it if you like).

Serve the hake on top of the vegetable stew, scatter the cherry tomatoes and chorizo over and a few steamed green beans.

INGREDIENTS: 350-400g of hake fillet; 200g of cooking chorizo, sliced; 1 medium red onion, diced; 1 aubergine, diced; 1 courgette, diced; 1 red pepper, diced; 1 clove garlic, crushed; 250ml of passata; 1 tin of cooked butter beans; 200g of cherry tomatoes, halved; small pack of fresh green beans; splash of balsamic vinegar; splash of white wine; sprig of fresh oregano

SERVES TWO

Enjoy!

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PHEASANT WELLINGTON INGREDIENTS 2 pheasant breasts; 200g of chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced; 100g of pancetta, diced; 1/4 savoy cabbage, finely shredded; 2 slices of Parma ham; puff pastry; splash of white wine; splash of double cream; 100ml of chicken stock; sprig of fresh thyme; sprig of fresh tarragon

S P O T L I G H T

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METHOD 1. In a hot frying pan, sear the pheasant breasts on both sides. Remove from the pan and leave to cool. In the same pan, add a knob of butter, the mushrooms and thyme.

As the mushrooms begin to brown, add the white wine and reduce until almost all the liquid has gone. Then place the mushrooms in a bowl to cool. 2. Lay the Parma ham on a board, placing a pheasant breast on each, then put a few of the cooled mushrooms inside the cavity and over the top of the pheasant, saving about half of them to use in the sauce. 3. Wrap the Parma ham around it and then the puff pastry, sealing the edges tightly. Poke 3 or 4 little holes in the top of the parcel and bake in a preheated oven at 180ÂşC for 18-20 mins. 4. In a sautĂŠ pan, gently

NORTH NORFOLK FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL:

Arthur sponsors the Cookery Theatre, hosted by Mary Kemp, at the festival, which takes place at Holkham Hall on September 1 and 2, from 10am-4pm.

Expect to see him in action with his great friend Chris Coubrough of the Crown Hotel in Wells and former Great British Bake Off contestant, Kate Barmby from South Norfolk. Visit: www.northnorfolkfoodfestival.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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[Serves 2 fry the pancetta until it starts to crisp, then add the shredded cabbage. Stir well, turn the heat to high and keep stirring. When there is a good sizzle going, add a splash of white wine, a good twist of black pepper then reduce the heat to minimum, cover and leave to steam. This will keep warm like this until the pheasant finishes cooking. 5. Put a small saucepan on a medium to high heat and add the remaining mushrooms and chicken stock.

When boiling, add the cream and a couple of tarragon leaves and reduce to your desired consistency. 6. Slice the pheasant wellie into two or three nice big pieces, and serve on top of the cabbage and pancetta with a little sauce spooned around.

DON'T Kate Barmby, Great British MISS Bake off contestant 2016 and cookery school teacher, is holding a one-day Christmas cake decorating course at Arthur Howell's bakery on November 10, from 10am to 5pm. Lunch is included and you will take away your decorated cake in a gift box - for either yourself on the big day or as a present.

WINE & CHEESE

OPEN Norwich is hosting a Wine and Cheese Festival on September 8. Working alongside Majestic Wines, they will bring you more than 100 different wines from around the world, including a few from off the beaten track. Plus there will be local winery tastings and a chance to try some wine based cocktails.

Visit www.opennorwich.org.uk

TAPAS & WINE

Dan Lawrence and Natalie Stuhler of Socius, in Burnham Market, are hosting a Spanish Tapas & Wine Tasting evening on September 6. Their new restaurant offers guests a modern, British version of tapas where food is served on small plates and designed to share.

Visit www.sociusnorfolk.co.uk

DIARY DATES Enjoy the last of the summer wine (and food) with the help of our monthly round up of happenings, says

GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCE

Five Norwich restaurants will help bring new show Gastronomic to life on Stage Two at Norwich Theatre Royal from September 6 to 22.

Performance, state-of-the-art technology and a five-course taster meal are on the menu with the new immersive dining experience (the audience will be placed on board an Airbus A380) created by award-winning theatre company, Curious Directive. Benedicts, Shiki, The Assembly House, Namaste Village, and Kemp's at Norwich Theatre Royal will all be involved.

Visit www.theatreroyalnorwich.co.uk

Emma Outten GUIDED TOUR

FOOD FESTIVAL

Aldeburgh Food and Drink Festival takes place from September 28 to 30 at Snape Maltings, in Suffolk. Highlights this year include a Wild Suffolk area, where you can learn about foraging, open-fire cooking, fishing, game and the wildlife of Suffolk, as well as the Adnams Drinks Experience (led by beer expert Melissa Cole) and the Hillfarm Family Meadow.

Visit www.aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk

Enjoy a guided tour of the Millennium Garden at Pensthorpe on September 14.

Join Head Gardener Jonathan Pearce, for an early evening walk around worldrenowned plantsman Piet Oudolf’s first public UK garden. Includes a glass of prosecco (dinner is optional). Alternatively, on September 19, enjoy sunrise on the Pensthorpe Explorer. Includes a hot drink and a breakfast bap.

Visit www.pensthorpe.com

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The Feathers Hotel in Holt is holding a BBQ and gin masterclass with Black Shuck on September 7. The evening will begin with a lovely BBQ on the terrace with a gin cocktail, followed by gin masterclasses and tasting co-hosted by Sarah and Patrick who will also impart their knowledge and a bit of history behind the legend of Black Shuck. There will be a limited amount of tickets.

Visit www.thefeathershotel.com

FARMERS’ MARKETS

BBQ & GIN

There are a fair few farmers’ markets to have a mooch around this month: Creake Abbey on September 1; the farmers' market at Marshland Hall Community Centre (just 20 minutes from King’s Lynn) on September 6; the King’s Lynn farmers' market on Saturday Market Place on September 8; and the farmers’ market at Sandringham Visitor Centre Restaurant on September 23.

Visit www.creakeabbey.co.uk www.marshlandhall.org.uk www.discoverkingslynn.com www.sandringhamestate.co.uk

MUSIC FESTIVAL

The second annual Deepdale Festival takes place from September 28 to 30, with more than 30 acts: rock, blues, country, folk, Americana, bands, duos, solo artists, street performers and poets. Plus there will be lots of lovely food and drink, including real ales, cocktails, wines, local gins, curries, pizzas, burgers, hot drinks, shakes and more.

Visit www.deepdalebackpackers.co.uk

WRITING FESTIVAL

The Noirwich Crime Writing Festival takes place in Norwich from September 13 to 16, which includes a ‘bloody brunch’ on the Sunday at Dragon Hall – with special Bloody Mary cocktails. A number of local businesses will also join in the festival spirit by offering food with a crime twist - and the Grosvenor fish bar is expected to do its ‘red herring special’ again this year.

Visit www.noirwich.co.uk

DEMENTIA FRIENDLY LUNCH

Farmyard Restaurant in Norwich is hosting its next Dementia Friendly Lunch Service on September 5. Dementia friendly staff will be on hand to ensure people living with dementia, their friends, family and carers can enjoy a meal together in an understanding environment.

The new service was launched with co-owner Hannah Springham’s mum in mind.

Visit www.farmyardrestaurant.com

WHAT 'S ON

tHIS

Month

CHARITY BALL

Sprowston Manor Hotel and Country Club is hosting a charity masquerade ball on September 22, in aid of WellChild, a charity which helps families with children who are seriously or terminally ill. The ticket includes a two-course meal.

Visit www.britanniahotels.com

MUSIC & TEA

It's the last chance to enjoy a Summer Sunday of Music and Tea at The Plantation Garden in Norwich, on September 2. Tea, coffee and homebaked cakes will be served and there will be live performances from local musicians.

Visit www.plantationgarden.co.uk

WINE TASTING

The Maids Head Hotel in Norwich is hosting an Autumn Wine Tasting on September 7. Enjoy the flavours of the new autumn à la carte menu, served tapas style and all paired with a complementary wine, especially chosen by Peter Graham Wines from the extensive wine list.

Visit www.maidsheadhotel.co.uk

FIELD TO FORK

Hop aboard a tractor trailer tour after a visit to the Field to Fork Experience at Holkham, to see exactly where your food comes from, from September 3 to 5. Travel back and visit the Great Barn and fast forward to the present day and discover the conservation work undertaken, the variety of crops grown in Holkham Park, and how these change through the seasons.

Visit www.holkham.co.uk

THOUGHTS OF AN INDIAN SUMMER IN THORNHAM… If you’re planning to visit the second ‘Deepdale Festival’ at the end of September, but are yet to pin down a property, feast your eyes on our sublime offering; The Gables in Thornham.

Located close to some of the best pubs and cafes along the North Norfolk coast, this attractive brick and flint detached luxury holiday home boasts three super king-size bedrooms plus one spacious twin bedroom, all with en suites. With a fully enclosed garden, children and dogs can play safely to their hearts content.

A three-night stay at The Gables starts from £942.

Visit www.norfolkhideaways.co.uk Call 01328 887658 Email enquiries@norfolkhideaways.co.uk www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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Mackenzie Hotels once again hosts Macke our speciality 1, 2 & 3 night breaks incorporating the 1

THURSFORD

Christmas Spectacular

Book Book early to avoid missing out....

ear

This This year we are once again offeringyear in November and December ourwe preare Christmas Christmas dinner, bed and breakfast 1, 2 + 3 night breaks which include dinne return return coach travel and a ticket for the famouscoach Christmas show at tr Thursford—all Thursford—all seats are Deluxe within the first 11 rows. s Once Once again this year we are offering a 1 night again stay with Matinee show this arrive arrive at the Hotel from 11am for a light bite at before departing the at 12.30pm.

Hot Enjoy Enjoy the Thursford Show returning to the Hotel the at approx 5.30pm for Thur mulled mulled wine and mince pies, then relax in your roomwine before savouring a 3 and course course festive dinner. festive di You Y will beou staying at one of Norfolk’s will finest Hotels, with outstanding be sta accommodation, accommodation, award winning restaurants, afternoon teas, log fires and so

Just some of our selected dates below...

BREAK

DATES BREAK BREAK TYPE

HOTEL

Break 2A

11th Break November 1 night DBB 2A + ticket LINKS

£175 pp11th Sunday 11th November 7pm No

Break 3

12th Break November 1 night DBB 3 + ticket

DALES

£195 pp12th Monday 12th November 2pm No

Break 5

13th Break November 1 night DBB 5 + ticket

DALES

£195 pp13th Tuesday 13th November 2pm No

Break 8A

16th Break & 17th November 2 night DBB 8A + ticket SMH

£290 pp16th Saturday 17th November 7pm &

Break 9

22nd Break November 1 night DBB + 9 ticket

£195 pp22nd Thursday 22nd November 2pmNo

DALES

COST DAT PERFORMANCE DAY/TIME ES FROM

1

Break 10A 23rd Break & 24th November 2 night DBB + 10A ticket SMH

£290 pp23rd Saturday 24th November 2pm &

Break 11

25th Break November 1 night DBB + 11 ticket DALES

£195 pp25th Sunday 25th November 7pm No

Break 13

26th Break November 1 night DBB + 13 ticket SMH

£185 pp26th Monday 26th November 2pm No

Break 21

2nd Break December 1 night DBB + 21 ticket LINKS

£175 pp2nd Sunday 2nd December Dec 7pm

Break 22

3rdBreak December 1 night DBB + 22 ticket DALES

£195 pp3rd Monday 3rd December Dec 2pm

Break 25

5thBreak December 1 night DBB + 25 ticket DALES

£195 pp5th Wednesday 5th December Dec 7pm

Break 32

16th Break December 1 night DBB + 32 ticket DALES

£195 pp16th Sunday 16th December 7pmDe

Break 34

17th Break December 1 night DBB + 34 ticket DALES

£195 pp17th Monday 17th December 7pm De

Break 39

19th Break December 1 night DBB + 39 ticket SMH

£185 pp19th Wednesday 19th DecemberDe 7pm

Visit www.mackenziehotels.com for all our breaks

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PORKSTOCK -

W H A T ' S

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WHo’S COOKING? The organisers of Porkstock, which takes place at the Norfolk Showground on October 13, have an incredible line up for the festival's cookery stage.

Feast Norfolk, proud media partner, gets the run down

VISIT

www.porkstock.co.uk

T

HE COOKERY STAGE at this year’s Porkstock is set to feature some of our region’s favourite, and most talented, chefs, cooks and food producers.

At 10.30am, kicking off the foodie proceedings in fine style will be Richard Hughes. Richard is chef director of The Assembly House in Norwich and owner of The Richard Hughes Cookery School, inaugural winner of the UK Cookery School of the Year award. Richard has been cooking professionally for more than 40 years and is a passionate advocate for his home county of Norfolk. Richard is planning to showcase an amazing porky dish, featuring pig's cheek with chorizo and butter beans accompanied by a ham hock hash cake.

Another big-hitter on the Norfolk food scene is Roger Hickman, chef proprietor of Roger Hickman’s Restaurant on Upper St Giles Street in Norwich.

Roger was head chef at the renowned Adlards, when it held a Michelin Star, and also ran the kitchen at the Victoria at Holkham. Roger Hickman’s Restaurant has built an enviable reputation and earned a coveted three AA Rosettes for its outstanding food.

Porkstock visitors can see Roger on stage at 12.30pm.

Taking the 2.30pm slot is chef patron of Benedicts, Richard Bainbridge. Richard is known to many as the winner, and judge, of BBC2’s Great British Menu.

Having worked for the Roux Brothers and Gunter Seeger before becoming head chef of Morston Hall,

Richard and his wife, Katja, founded Benedicts in 2015. The restaurant was named in The Times Top 100 Restaurants in the UK and the Square Meal Top 100. Richard is sharing his passion for pork with the Porkstock cookery stage audience by showcasing pig’s head in his recipe.

Other foodie superstars appearing on the stage throughout the day include: • Candi Robertson, owner of Candi’s Chutney, who will be teaming up with Matt Cockin, founder of the Fruit Pig Company.

• Andrew Jones, the chef patron of Farmyard Norwich’s first ‘Bistronomy’ style eatery - will be sharing the stage with Iain McCarten, head chef of Norfolk culinary institution The Last Wine Bar and Restaurant.

• Dan Smith, chef patron of The Wildebeest at Stoke Holy Cross and Warwick Street Social.

• Kate Barmby, former contestant on The Great British Bake Off and now one of Norfolk’s favourite bakers.

Pippa Lain-Smith, one of the organisers of Porkstock, says: ‘We’re so excited to welcome such an amazing line-up of chefs and producers to the Porkstock Cookery Stage this year. After every chef’s slot, there will be a single-lot auction, giving visitors the chance to bid for a unique prize relevant to the person or people they have just watched.

All proceeds from the auction will go to Nelson’s Journey.’

PORKSTOCK, THE FREE DAYTIME FOOD FESTIVAL, TAKES PLACE FROM 10AM TO 5PM, AND IS FOR ALL THE FAMILY. THE EVENING KNEES UP, FROM 7PM TO MIDNIGHT, IS FOR OVER 18s ONLY. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT PORKSTOCK OR TO BUY TICKETS FOR THE EVENING KNEES UP, VISIT WWW.PORKSTOCK.CO.UK OR DOWNLOAD THE PORKSTOCK APP.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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THE WHITE HORSE, BRANCASTER STAITHE

W H A T ' S

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THE LIFEBOAT THORNHAM

THE LODGE OLD HUNSTANTON

THE LIFEBOAT THORNHAM

THE JOLLY SAILORS BRANCSTER STAITHE

THE PIGS EDGEFIELD

TITCHWELL MANOR

O N

Diary Date

THIS YEAR’S NORFOLK RESTAURANT WEEK IS SET TO BE BIGGER AND BETTER THAN EVER BEFORE, AND, FOR THE FIRST TIME, SISTER EVENT NORWICH RESTAURANT WEEK GETS ITS OWN SEPARATE BILLING, WITH FEAST NORFOLK AS MEDIA PARTNER! EMMA OUTTEN REPORTS

NEW FOR NORWICH: • • • • • • • • • • •

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The York Tavern Kemp’s, at the Theatre Royal Bishop’s Dining Room and Wine Bar WinePress Restaurant at the Maids Head Hotel The Tipsy Vegan St Andrews Brewhouse The Georgian Townhouse Côte Brasserie Frank’s Bar North The Brasserie at Barnham Broom, near Norwich

www.norfolkrestaurantweek.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

them trying a restaurant for the first time, enjoy outstanding food at wallet-friendly prices whilst participating restaurants have the opportunity to showcase ambitious and interesting menus whilst reaching a wider audience.’

This year, the event has teamed up with Norfolk Country Cottages, a move which will help promote Norfolk’s foodie credentials even further afield.

Brand Manager Lucy Downing says: ‘We know that Norfolk’s reputation for outstanding local produce and a rich food and drink scene is one of the reasons our discerning customers choose the county as a holiday destination.’

This year, restaurants will offer either two courses for £12 and three for £17 or two courses for £18 and three for £23, the first slight increase on previous years which reflects the organisers' commitment to ensuring that local farmers, producers and restaurants receive a fair price for their excellent local produce. Organisers recommend that interested diners book ahead to avoid disappointment once menus are released in mid-September.

VISIT

Norfolk Restaurant Week has come on apace, since it began as North Norfolk Restaurant Week in 2013, with 11 participating restaurants. Last year saw the first Norfolk-wide event, with some 30,000 hungry diners making the most of 62 ‘unmissably-priced menus’ at some of the county’s most popular restaurants.

Billed as the ‘largest dining event in the county,’ this year’s event will take place from October 29 to November 9 and so, if you exclude the weekends, it actually lasts almost a fortnight!

More than 80 of Norfolk’s popular eateries are expected to participate, which is more than ever before, and 11 of them are brand new additions in the new sister event, Norwich Restaurant Week, demonstrating there’s a real appetite for and a dedication to promoting the best of Norfolk food in the city, too. And, what’s more, Feast Norfolk is the media partner for the Norwich event.

Organisers are particularly delighted with the addition of Norwich’s Tipsy Vegan, the first time a wholly plant-based menu has been available during the event.

Owner Michelle McCabe says: ‘The Tipsy Vegan is excited to be part of Norwich Restaurant week as it enables our food concept to be showcased to a wide variety of diners who otherwise might not have been aware of us.’

Hannah Hughes, from established participant, Strattons Hotel in Swaffham, says: ‘We are excited to be part of this wonderful event again this year and you can expect a delicious feast of Norfolk produce from our talented chefs Jules Hetherton and Dan Freear.'

If you have yet to become a Norfolk (or Norwich) Restaurant Week convert, the concept is simple: discerning diners get to choose from fixed-price special lunch or dinner menus in some of the county’s finest restaurants, pubs, cafés and hotels, such as The White Horse, Brancaster Staithe, and the Titchwell Manor Hotel.

Founder and chief organiser Martin Billings, says: ‘Norfolk Restaurant Week is a win-win for all involved; diners, many of

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FORMER ENGLISH CRICKET CAPTAIN ANDREW STRAUSS IS THE LATEST ‘AN EVENING WITH…’ PERSONALITY TO APPEAR AT CARROW ROAD AND, AS EVER, GUESTS WILL ENJOY A THREE-COURSE DINNER, DESIGNED BY NONE OTHER THAN DELIA HERSELF, AS EMMA OUTTEN REPORTS The ‘an evening with…’ events at Carrow Road in Norwich are proving to be rather successful. Not only do guests get to hear all about the illustrious careers of the likes of Harry Redknapp, Damon Hill and Stephen Fry, to name but a few recently, they also get to enjoy a three course dinner designed by Delia herself.

This month it’s the turn of Andrew Strauss, who stepped down as England cricket captain in 2012 having played an impressive 100 Test matches for England.

Andrew captained the side on 50 occasions and retired from the game as one of England’s most successful captains of all

time. He also captained England to their first Ashes series win in Australia for 24 years, becoming one of only three captains ever to successfully lead England to Ashes victories home and away.

As Andrew says: ‘I am extremely proud of everything I have achieved as a cricketer. I was very fortunate to play in an era when some of English cricket’s greatest moments occurred.

I’m really looking forward to coming to Carrow Road and discussing the highlights of my career for Middlesex and England and what the future looks like for me.’

AN EVENING WITH ANDREW STRAUSS TAKES PLACE AT CARROW ROAD ON SEPTEMBER 21.

VIP tickets include a pre-dinner drinks reception with canapés in the company of Andrew, wine during your meal and premium positioned seating.

Delia’s Canary Catering also hosts a variety of special events throughout the year, ranging from Comedy Clubs and Motown Nights to Wine Tours and Christmas Parties.

To give a flavour of what guests can expect on the evening, here’s a recipe: To book your tickets: Call: 01603 218724 Email: canary.catering@canaries.co.uk Visit: deliascanarycatering.co.uk

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Hazelnut Shortbreads with Raspberries They are extremely light, melt-in-the-mouth, and although they are a summer recipe you could serve them on Burns Night or Hogmanay.

INGREDIENTS 85g of blanched hazelnuts, toasted; 110g block of butter, softened; 50g of golden icing sugar; 110g of plain flour, sifted; 50g of rice flour or ground rice, sifted For the raspberry purée 175g of raspberries; 11/2 level tbsp of golden caster sugar

SERVES 6

To serve 300g of raspberries (reserve 18 to decorate); dusting of icing sugar

ADDITIONA oven to 180 L: Preheat the ˚C, gas mark 4 EQUIPMENt: t wo larg with non-st e baking trays ic a 9cm round k liners, and pastry cutte r

Note: while everything can be prepared well in advance, it’s important not to assemble the shortbreads until just before serving. www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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www.deliascanar ycatering.co.uk

METHOD 1. First of all, when the oven is preheated you need to roast the hazelnuts – just spread them out on a tray and pop them into the oven near the centre for 8 minutes – use a timer to help you remember.

2. Leave the nuts to cool then grind them finely using a mini-chopper or processor. Now, in a mixing bowl, cream the butter and icing sugar together until light and fluffy, then gradually work in the sifted flours, followed by the ground hazelnuts, bringing the mixture together into a stiff ball.

3. Place the dough in a polythene bag and leave in the fridge to rest for 1 hour. After that, roll it out to a thickness of 3–4mm, stamp out as many rounds as you can by placing the cutter on the pastry and giving it a sharp tap, then simply lift the cutter and the piece will drop out.

4. Re-roll any trimmings to cut out more (to make a total of 12). Now arrange the biscuits on the baking trays and lightly prick each one with a fork. Bake one tray at a time near the centre of the oven for 10–12 minutes.

5. Leave on the baking trays to cool for about 10 minutes, then carefully remove to a wire rack to cool completely. While the shortbreads are cooling, purée the raspberries with the sugar in a mini-chopper or processor and pass through a nylon sieve to remove the seeds, then place in a bowl, cover and chill until needed.

6. For the custard filling: place the custard powder and sugar in a bowl and mix to a smooth paste with the milk and egg yolks. Then heat the crème fraiche in a saucepan and when it begins to bubble, pour it in to join the custard mixture. Whisk everything together, then return it to the saucepan and, still whisking, bring it up to a simmer.

When it begins to boil it becomes thick, so remove it from the heat, add the vanilla extract, then pour it into a bowl to cool.

7. When the custard is cold, fold it into the whipped cream. Cover and chill until needed. Just before serving, spread equal quantities of the custard-cream mixture over 6 of the biscuits, then arrange the raspberries on top, not forgetting to reserve 18. Spoon equal quantities of the purée over, then sandwich by lightly placing the other shortbreads on top.

8. Finally, sprinkle with a dusting of icing sugar and top with the remaining raspberries.

VISIT

For the confectioners’ custard 1 level tbsp of custard powder; 1 level tbsp of golden caster sugar; 100ml of milk; 3 large egg yolks; 200ml of crème fraîche; 2tsp of vanilla extract; 100ml of double cream, whipped

CREDIT: RED FLAME COMMS

DATE & DINE SOMETHING’S BREWING Bravo to Michelin-starred chef, Galton Blackiston, who has worked with Norfolk Brewhouse to create two new beers using the very best local ingredients. No1 Ale and No1 Lager feature Maris Otter and Clear Choice – locally grown barley, malted in East Anglia by Crisp Malt.

Visit www.no1cromer.com and www.norfolkbrewhouse.co.uk

SOMETHING FISHY Congratulations to The Fish Box in Woodbridge, Suffolk, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. Known for its quirky appearance, it stands alone in the Thoroughfare, Woodbridge, providing the community with the freshest daily catches sourced direct from Lowestoft fish market.

The crabs and lobsters are always landed in Cromer and the mussels are always from Brancaster Staithe.

Find The Fish Box on Facebook

NEW FACES

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R OU N D - U P We’ve been saving up all sorts of stories for you over the summer, says Emma Outten. Enjoy!

FINE DINING I really enjoyed the recent launch of the new Gali Fine Dining restaurant in Upper St Giles, Norwich, billed as the city’s first Indian fine dining restaurant. Offering a five-course tasting menu of innovative dishes inspired by authentic Bangladeshi cuisine, alongside à la carte options, Gali will be an exotic addition to the city’s current gastronomic offering.

Visit www.galifinedining.co.uk

SECRET SUPPER CLUB We thoroughly immersed ourselves in the new experimental dining experience on Chapelfield Plain, outside intu Chapelfield recently. It’s the first shopping centre in the UK to pilot the Secret Supper Club event, coordinated by award-winning social dining platform WeFiFo in partnership with The Last Wine Bar and Restaurant, with 24 diners all sitting at one long table and head chef Iain McCarten taking centre-stage.

Visit www.wefifo.com

TABLE TALK CREDIT: SHAZMEDIA.CO.UK

NEW COOKBOOK Look out for the second Suffolk Feast One County, Twenty Chefs cookbook and food-lovers’ guide. With well known food writer Tessa Allingham at the helm, chefs such as The Swan at Southwold’s Rory Whelan are featured and there’s lots of information on the county’s artisan producers, farm shops, delis and more - all with fab photography, too. It is now on sale at £24.95. Visit www.suffolkfeast.co.uk

This sounds fun: Vicky Beck, who just so happens to be the Director of Business Development and Communications at East Coast College, based in Lowestoft and Great Yarmouth, has teamed up with Graze and Tapas at the Station in Beccles to launch Date and Dine - a sophisticated, sociable alternative to online dating and is as much about making new friends as finding new partners. Good for her!

Visit Date & Dine on Facebook

Editor Sarah Hardy enjoyed a trip to the Chef’s Table at The Northgate in Bury St Edmunds. Up to 12 diners can be catered for, all getting a great view of head chef Greig Young in action. She sampled a terrific Taste of East Anglia menu which included Norfolk quail, seabass from Lowestoft and Red Poll beef from Stowupland.The 10-bedroom hotel has a glorious garden, too, which is just the spot for a late summer cocktail or two! Also, there’s a exhibition by sculptor Brian Alabaster to enjoy.

Visit www.thenorthgate.com

Welcome to Simon Turner who is the new operations director at The Boars at Spooner Row, near Wymondham. Simon, who used to own the Elm Hill Brasserie in Norwich, is keen to see all day dining, plus more vegetarian and vegan dishes on the menu, with lots of superfoods on offer, too.

He also plans wine specials, say a wine of the month, and has big plans for the garden’s summer house. So watch this space!

Visit www.theboars.co.uk

ON THE PROMENADE Best wishes to father and son Michael and Joel Large, who have opened Mim’s - a coffee and gelato establishment on the Central Promenade in Hunstanton.

Michael has been selling ice cream from kiosks along the promenade for more than 40 years, and in 2016 the family started making their own ice cream under the brand East Coast Gelato.

Find East Coast Gelato on Facebook

COMMUNITY CAFE A new community café at the Three Horseshoes in Warham has opened and is being supported

by Pub is The Hub. The pub reopened last summer after major alterations, while still retaining many of the pub’s features, and licensee Fiona Farrow was so pleased with the warm welcome she, her husband and staff got that she wanted to give something back to the community.

Visit www.warhamhorseshoes.co.uk

News & Gossip THE DARK SIDE Norwich-based Gnaw Chocolate launched two new 72 per cent cocoa dark chocolate bars, on World Chocolate Day: Gnaw Toasted Coconut and Gnaw Raspberry Crisp. Both are suitable for vegetarians and are dairy-free. Plus, the Toasted Coconut bar is also gluten-free. Having tried both I can vouch that they are both delicious!

Visit www.gnawfolkchocolate.co.uk

GIN TEMPLE We’re looking forward to trying out Gin Temple, the new gin bar with a difference in Norwich. Located in Pottergate, on Norwich Lanes, founder Teresa Gizzi says: ‘The main reason I decided to open the bar is to showcase the range of fabulous gins coming out of Norfolk and for people to be able to come and taste them. It’s designed to be a fun and relaxing environment for all.’

Visit www.gintemple.co.uk

FEELING HUNGRY? Check out the new Hungry Ewe Produce Shop and Cheese Dining Restaurant the next time you’re in Wroxham. It’s from the same people behind Scrummy Pig at Wroxham Barns, and you can expect fine regional foods; charcuterie and pate boards; wine, ale and gin flights; luxurious hot chocolate and more.

Find Hungry Ewe on Facebook

NEW AT NORTONS

1066 AND ALL THAT We’ve been hearing good things about 1066 at The Chequers in Bressingham, near Diss, which opened last year as a restaurant, bar and shop. Hazel Knox-Johnston and the team have captured the essence of healthy Danish living with Smorrebrod: fresh local seafood and lean meats served on specially baked artisan breads, garnished with vegetables and served with local chutneys and homemade sauces.

Visit www.1066chequers.com

ALL YOUR ESSENTIALS Fair play to the folk at Fairhaven Garden for opening a small provisions shop ('essential essentials') in the tearoom to cater for people on boating and self-catering holidays, as well as locals. There's also a new chef, Paul Jeffries. Paul ran his own deli and sandwich business in North Walsham, called Boccadillos, for seven years, which he sold about a year ago.

Visit www.fairhavengarden.co.uk

Nortons Dairy have undergone something of a rebranding over the summer. The latest addition to the updated range is the new cheese packaging – a clear and sealable plastic tub with a bold cardboard sleeve, all of which is recyclable. Good for them.

Visit www.nortonsdairy. co.uk

GRIN FOR GIN There are two new Norfolk-based gins for you to seek out.

Twelve Keys Dry Gin, created by Matthew Clifford of Horsham St Faith based Sartorial Spirits (the gin’s name is inspired by the alchemic work of Basil Valentine, and his Twelve Keys text, back in 1599, and has 12 botanicals); and Vryheid, Afrikaans for freedom, a dry gin created by Lindi and Shaun Hanckle who are originally from South Africa and now live in Wymondham.

Visit www.twelvekeys.com and www.oakvilla.co.uk

WALKING TOURS

DOUBLE SUCCESS

Zena Leech-Carlton of Love Norwich Food is offering upgraded and new food and drink walking tours of Norwich's best independent cafes, bars and restaurants in the city centre. There’s the upgraded Big One, with Farmyard and Bullards coming on board; plus a couple of new ones: the Mini Tasting One, which includes a local gin and tonic, and a Cocktails and Nibbles Tour.

Visit www.lovenorwichfood.co.uk

Congratulations to King’s Lynn’s Bank House and The Rose and Crown in Snettisham which have both received commendation from The AA - both are owned

by Jeannette and Anthony Goodrich. Bank House, situated on the riverside on King’s Staithe Square, was awarded the 3 Star Silver Award, whereas The Rose and Crown achieved a rating as a Gold 4 Star Inn and retained their AA Rosette.

Visit www.thebankhouse.co.uk and www.roseandcrownsnettisham.co.uk

TEAS MAID The Maids Head Hotel has linked up with a new local supplier, Wilkinson’s of Norwich, which will be supplying loose leaf teas to the hotel, with a special Maids Head Blend in production. Ten of Wilkinson’s teas are a special feature of the popular Afternoon Tea, and the supplier is also working with Sam Masters, the Food Services Manager, on developing the special blend.

Visit www.maidsheadhotel.co.uk and www.wilkinsonsofnorwich.com www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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PHOTOS - CREDIT @A WPRCO)

NEW BEGINNINGS THE SARACEN’S HEAD AT WOLTERTON, NEAR AYLSHAM, REOPENS AFTER DEVASTATING WATER DAMAGE. SARAH HARDY REPORTS

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A FEAST NORFOLK FAVOURITE, the Saracen’s Head at Wolterton, near Aylsham, has been shut since March 3 - a date firmly etched on owner Tim Elwes’ mind.

The 200-year-old pub was closed for two weeks to allow for an annual refresh. ‘We had been painting the bedrooms and I’d just cleaned all the carpets. We like to keep on top of repairs - keep it looking good,’ says Tim, who runs the fivebedroom pub with his wife, Janie.

‘I went in the next day and it was like walking into a tropical storm, water was pouring down. It was heartbreaking,’ he recalls.

A pipe had burst in the attic, sending water crashing down through the upper floors and into the bar and parlour restaurant. The damage was extensive and it has taken months to restore the building to its former glory. Walls have been rebuilt, and much lime plastering has taken place. ‘It does remain very similar in its look and feel,’ says Tim, adding that there was perhaps a lighter colour scheme throughout.

‘But we like to keep it cosy, to keep that feeling of it being a proper country pub.’

He adds: ‘We have also discovered some fine architectural details, say around the arch in the hall, so we are bringing them back to life.’

All the staff have remained, with head chef Mark Sayers still in charge of the kitchen. ‘Our philosophy is still very much the same; our food is local and seasonal as we have such a great larder available - our beef comes from Blickling and our pork from Tim Allen in South Creake in North Norfolk. We have missed so much this year - we never got to serve asparagus, strawberries, or Cromer crabs. But we are really looking forward to the new produce this autumn - Mark has been working on his menus!’

Here’s a taste of what the Saracen’s Head is offering:

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

INGREDIENTS 4 x 160g sea trout fillets (wild if available); 300g of broad beans; 200g of baby tomatoes; 2tbsp of fresh basil, chopped; 1tbsp of shallots, chopped; 100ml of olive oil; 150g of fennel; sea salt, black pepper, unsalted butter METHOD: 1. Liquidise the fennel with the olive oil and put to one side. 2. Blanch the broad beans in boiling water until they are tender, then drain them and cool them by running under a cold tap. 3. Take the four trout fillets and place them on an oiled backing trap. 4. Season and add a knob of butter to each fillet. Now place the tray under the grill for 5 or 6 minutes. Make sure that the fillets are cooked through. 5. Whilst the fish is cooking, prepare the compote. Sweat the shallots in a pan until they are soft, stir regularly and then add the broad beans and tomatoes. Cook for a further 2 minutes or until the tomatoes appear cooked. Now fold through the basil and leave to sit for a couple more minutes with a lid on the pan. 6. Once all is ready, spoon the compote onto the centre of the warmed plates and place the trout on top.

7. Finish by drizzling the fennel oil around the plate.

www.saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk

Grilled Sea trout, Broad Bean, Baby tomato, Basil Compote, Fennel Oil

VISIT

GRILLED SEA TROUT

Now sit down and en joy!

SERVES FOUR

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YOU MAY HAVE GORGED ALL SUMMER ON ICE CREAM BUT DON’T STOP NOW, SAYS SARAH HARDY WITH THE SUMMER we’ve had, sales of ice cream, gelato, frozen lollies and all those fancy sorbets and frozen yoghurts have gone through the roof.

The searing heat saw us exist on picky picnic food for weeks on end, with ice cream as simply the go to dessert - if only because it meant you could stick your head in the freezer for a minute or two!

East Anglia boasts several great ice cream makers, with just about every flavour under the sun available, and Norwich in particular has seen the emergence of gelato bars - so beloved by our Continental cousins.

Keep that summer feeling just a little bit longer by trying out some local produce or popping into one of the ice cream bars.

One thing is for sure, one scoop is never enough!

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Jay Rayner

Critic’s

CHOICE THE VERY FIRST ASSEMBLY HOUSE FOOD FESTIVAL TAKES PLACE IN NORWICH THIS AUTUMN. EMMA OUTTEN CHATS TO AWARD-WINNING WRITER AND BROADCASTER JAY RAYNER, WHO WILL BE CLOSING THE FESTIVAL WITH HIS ONE-MAN SHOW

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ECENTLY VOTED AS the most influential food and drink journalist in Britain, restaurant critic Jay Rayner is not one to be trifled with, if you’re a chef proprietor - or a regional food and drink journalist, for that matter!

‘I’m terrifying,’ jokes Jay, who is bringing his one-man show The Ten (Food) Commandments to Norwich, as part of the first ever Assembly House Food Festival, which starts this month.

He is best known as restaurant critic for The Observer, as well as being a MasterChef judge. The former feature writer didn’t have to think long and hard before taking the role.

He recalls: ‘The idea of me being a restaurant critic only occurred to me in the three seconds after the editor told me there was a vacancy.’

This was back in 1999, and all the ingredients were there.

‘You only need to look at me to know I’m a man who likes his food,’ says Jay, son of the late Claire Rayner, the much-loved agony aunt. ‘I come from a noisy North West London Jewish family, who did most of its talking around the table.

‘My mother was the sort of person who, if there weren’t any leftovers at the end of dinner, would regard herself as someone who hadn’t cooked enough.’ Although he adds: ‘We did go out to restaurants - my mother loved restaurants, my father not so much.’

He describes his work: ‘It’s a writing job, not an eating job.

You look at people like Giles Coren, or Adrian Gill or Grace [Dent], they all started by writing about something else. We are employed for how we write but that extra element of greed has to play a part.

‘The brilliant thing about food, as far as I’m concerned, is it’s everywhere – it’s about economics and politics and sex and religion.’

His one-man show tackles the really big questions, like whether it is ever OK to covet thy neighbour’s oxen (it is).

This is the first time he has performed it at the Assembly House (it’s usually at the Playhouse), but he says: ‘I think we’ve done Kitchen Cabinet from there - we’ve done Kitchen Cabinet from almost everywhere to be fair!’

(The BBC Radio 4 show came to Latitude Festival in the summer).

He continues: ‘It’s a good space so it should be fun to do it there.’ He likes getting feedback from his audience, and hopes they will get on Twitter during the interval. ‘They can give you lots of material for the second half.’ Pre theatre dining will be on offer – starting off with Potted Binham Blue, Fig Chutney, and Toast.

Next year the 51-year-old will celebrate 20 years as a restaurant critic, ‘which is ludicrous’, he says. To mark it, there will be a new book, a memoir through food called My Last Supper: One Meal, A Lifetime in the Making and a new show.

FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS CHEF PROPRIETOR OF The Assembly House, Richard Hughes, hopes the Food Festival – running through September, October and November - will become a firm fixture in the Norwich calendar.

It begins with a return of the much-loved and missed Noverre Cinema, which will be popping up for one night only with a special screening of delicious romance Chocolat (complete with Chocolat-inspired afternoon tea) on September 21. Other highlights include: September 23 - Game Master Class and Game Lunch with José L Souto. José is an acclaimed game expert who was a chef at the House of Commons for 11 years.

September 27 – The Great British Food Quiz, with Richard Hughes and Chris Bailey, in aid of the Norfolk and Norwich Association for the Blind.

September 29 – Food Writing with Andy Lynes. Andy is a columnist for The Telegraph, The Independent and Olive Magazine and food and drink editor for Metro.

October 4 - Dinner with Karl Goward of Shepherds of Westminster. Norwich-born Karl opened St John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields for Fergus Henderson and was the recipient of Anthony Bourdain’s reverential praise when he dined there.

October 17 – David Clayton’s A Parade of Puddings.

David is a BBC Broadcaster and ‘proper pudding lover.’

October 23 – One Man In His Apron - Richard Hughes November 18 - The School of Chocolate with Gary Hunter. Norfolk-born Gary is the UK Chocolate Ambassador for Callebaut and vice principal at the largest culinary teaching school in the UK, Westminster Kingsway.

Richard says: ‘I’m thrilled with the line-up and hope that everyone will find something on our menu of events to tempt them to come and join us.’

BOOK ONLINE: www.richardhughescookeryschool.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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Jay Rayner Jay is no stranger to Norwich. A visit to Bishop's Restaurant in 2011 went down well (‘reliable and with a few flourishes, Bishop's is the perfect middle-class fantasy of a restaurant’), whereas a visit to Roger Hickman’s Restaurant a couple of years ago didn’t go down quite so well - let’s just say, by the time Roger did his trademark thing of coming out at the end to say hello, Jay was in no mood for small talk. The review made the regional press: ‘leading food critic slams one exclusive Norwich restaurant’.

Mention it, and Jay is resolutely sticking to his word on the subject: ‘If you charge proper money for something you are absolutely fair game.’

Shiki Japanese Restaurant in Tombland, on the other hand and in that same review, faired better. ‘We’re not claiming it’s the greatest sushi restaurant in the world but it was a very, very nice place and I was grateful for it,’ says Jay. Outside of Norwich, he most recently reviewed Upstairs at No 1, Cromer (‘Few seaside chippies would dare to offer such an amazingly varied menu, but here they pull it off remarkably well’). Jay thought the eclectic menu was great: ‘How can you serve ramen and tacos?

You can if you’re very good.’

Prior to that he’s reviewed the Gunton Arms (‘they cook hunks of meat above a roaring fire…It makes Jay want to rip his shirt off and howl’) and The Neptune Inn at Hunstanton (‘serious food with a great attention to detail…but the cost will leave you slack-jawed’). Plus, he adds: ‘It’s more Suffolk but I did like Maison Bleue in Bury.’ Jay also famously likes pig so I tell him he needs to head back to East Anglia, for Porkstock!

Since he started out as a restaurant critic he’s observed: ‘The thing that’s most striking is the way that quality spreads.’

Although he adds: ‘There are still parts of the country where you’ll starve for want of a good meal. I won’t just protect people’s regional pride but it’s a greatly changed world.’

THE TEN (FOOD) COMMANDMENTS, by Jay Rayner, takes place at The Assembly House in Norwich on November 29.

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t: 07714 321987

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HONEYCOMB CARAMEL CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES, Booja Booja, £3.49, visit www.boojabooja.com A new offering from the popular and multi award winning chocolate makers from South Norfolk. As you’d expect, quality is all and each mouthful is a precious delight. You sink in through smooth vanilla caramel to golden honeycomb - and yes, it is melt in the mouth stuff. There are six in a box and they are organic, dairy, soya and gluten free, and vegan.

IN THE FIRST OF AN OCCASIONAL SERIES, WE SAMPLE A HANDFUL OF NORFOLK GOODIES AND TELL YOU WHAT WE THINK!

ARCHANGEL RHUBARB GIN, £34.80 for 50cl, www.archangel-distilleries.co.uk As we know, gin is just the thing at the moment and this is the second offering from Archangel Distilleries who are based on a working farm near Walsingham hence the use of Walsingham water! The rhubarb is grown at a farm near Beeston and the result is a delicate gin which is perfect for late summer evenings. No pink colouring is added and each hand crafted bottle reflects the rhubarb used - so you can’t get more individual than that!

MANDARIN AND LIME BLOSSOM HONEY MARMALADE, Old Rectory Preserves, £4.50 for 225g, www.oldrectorypreserves.com Award-winning artisan preserve maker (and MasterChef finalist) Annabel Anderson uses fruit and veg from her South Norfolk garden and the surrounding fields and hedgerows to create marmalades, jams and jellies. This flavoursome marmalade is simply lush - thick yet smooth, thanks to the honey, with plenty of chunks of rind. It’s perfect on your morning toast!

DILL INFUSION, Yare Valley Oils, £2.99 for 100ml, www.yarevalleyoils.co.uk Another cracker from Yare Valley Oils, from Surlingham, near Norwich. The family run farm produces cold pressed rapeseed oil and this infusion is one of the their latest offerings. And boy do you get a whiff of dill the minute the lid comes off this little beauty.

Despite a robust flavour, it is light and perfect for drizzling - it perked up our salmon salad! Note that it is vegan, gluten free and dairy free.

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PICK N MIX CHOCOLATE BROWNIES, Simply Cake Co, £11.50, visit www.simplycakeco.com Now, what a great idea and far better than getting flowers in the post! We love this pick and mix offering from Fakenham-based Susanna Lemon which means you get six artisan brownies arriving, beautifully wrapped, on your doorstep - with a little something for everyone - chocolate chip, chocolate orange or, our favourite, raspberry blondie. They are gooey, rather naughty and utterly delicious! Very moreish.

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SURF AND TURF BY THE SEA

MARK NICHOLLS ENJOYS A SEASIDE DINNER AT THE GLOBE INN, WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA

T SITS ON THE CORNER OF ONE OF NORFOLK’S MORE IMPOSING SQUARES. With its blue and white façade, The Globe Inn creates a striking presence close to the entry of The Buttlands at Wells-next-the-Sea. Facing on to the greenery of this magnificent square, surrounded by imposing homes, grand buildings and mature trees, it is an integral part of a setting that shows a different - for newer visitors a somewhat unexpected - aspect to the harbour town of Wells we all know and love.

Since Stephen and Antonia Bournes took over in 2013, The Globe has evolved – first with stylish rooms, a mature and varied menu, and now with the latest incarnation, the courtyard rooms and the wood-fired pizza ovens which became a popular feature of summer evenings this year.

We called in on a Friday evening earlier in the summer you remember, just as the euphoria of the World Cup and Wimbledon was dying down, yet when the East Coast was continuing to enjoy those prolonged, warm sunny days.

As we arrived, drinkers were sat outside (dogs at their feet), chatting and enjoying the warmth while within, the bar was vibrant and amidst them diners enjoyed food from the inn’s classic menu.

I couldn’t help notice the large battered haddock straddling a plate as I passed by on the way to the cosy, revamped, restaurant towards the rear where cushioned bench seats bordered the walls, with wooden tables supported by wrought iron and prints of Wells Harbour scenes adding the nautical colour.

With light, airy, pastel shades complementing the pallor of the wood, the ambience was comfortable, informal, friendly and welcoming.

This is the mood The Globe Inn offers.

Through the windows of the restaurant, the courtyard was alive, a summer scene of flowers and canopied tables, the Italian wood-fired pizza oven in place and above that the 12 new boutique courtyard rooms that had recently been renovated and were already proving popular.

Part of a £675,000 investment project which includes the restaurant - the new rooms are the latest

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There was also a duo of mackerel and the delicious sounding crab cake, avocado mousse, smoked salmon and paprika hollandaise.

For the main course, I chose the three-fish stew – a tantalisingly coastal blend of sea bass, haddock and mackerel with smoked haddock potatoes and a shellfish bouillabaisse with herb-garlic aioli and a charred langoustine perched aboard. At £23, this was wholesome, and exquisitely tasty.

Sharon pondered over the rump of salt marsh lamb with feta and Greek salad (£19) but was eventually swayed by the Gateley Angus rib-eye at £24 (substituting the duck-fat chips for sweet potato fries), and she was thrilled with her selection.

There is an extensive wine list but, after my Norfolk Mule, I opted for another Norfolk masterpiece – a pint of Woodforde’s Wherry but Adnams and other ales were also on sale.

After such a feast, dessert is in danger of becoming an afterthought but duty called and we enjoyed a little taste of sweetness that rounded off our meal.

Sharon chose the orange marmalade and yuzu pud and I the raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake which was deliciously sweet, yet light and summery too…at £6.96 each just what the season ordered.

For those, so inclined, there was the cheeseboard reassuringly Norfolk in its offering at £8.50 with Binham Blue, Wighton and Norfolk Dapple.

Summer evenings on the Norfolk coast are such a delight and the opportunity to sit outside in the courtyard after a meal with a digestif or glass of wine is so appealing…and difficult to resist.

www.theglobeatwells.co.uk

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transformation of the 19th century coach house and former cabaret theatre venue. The two floors, aptly named the Courtyard Wing, feature three ‘apart-hotel’ suites, with kitchenettes for self-catering, four further dog-friendly rooms, five rooms on the ground floor and a selection of large super king, family and easy access rooms.

The interiors champion the Norfolk Coast in design whilst reflecting the quirky charm of The Globe and have been created by Norwich interior designer, Holly Pagani of Salt Interiors.

It was a pleasure to sit and unhurriedly ponder a menu – and I did so while sipping one of The Globe’s famous ‘drinks of the day.’ I had chosen a Norfolk Mule: 25ml of Norfolk Gin, fresh orange, ginger, a sprig of thyme and Fever Tree ginger beer (£6.60).

Nibbling on olives and crunching on crispy oriental pork scratchings (£4.95) before selecting a starter, my wife Sharon and I looked through the varied menu of lighter meals and the classics - such as venison burger and the reclining haddock I had witnessed earlier, as well as Globe curries or the king prawn, tomato and parmesan linguine which was tempting at £15.95.

There’s also the crab salad at £14.95, lunch menu, Wednesday steak nights and Sunday lunches.

But we were here for the evening and I picked up on the pork theme from the main restaurant menu, choosing the sticky marmalade pork rib with yuzu, wonton crisps and vivid green edamame beans on a noodle salad bed (£7.50).

Sharon opted for the halloumi with the fresh roasted tomatoes and rocket and basil salad - a starter with a big S for summer that she declared light and moist and described simply as ‘refreshing.’

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QUEEN THE QUEEN’S HEAD IN WYMONDHAM REOPENED AT THE END OF LAST YEAR AND NOW BOASTS A NICE NEW TERRACE AREA TO CATCH THE LAST OF THOSE SUMMER RAYS. EMMA OUTTEN TOOK HER DEAR OL’ MUM OUT FOR A LADIES’ LUNCH

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www.queensheadnorfolk.co.uk

syrups (all priced at £2.95). I had the kiwi, lemon and mint concoction, which looked, with its final flourish of fresh mint, like a mojito. My mum was equally impressed with her peach and mandarin ‘mocktail’, with a mix of fresh and dehydrated orange slices. It turns out they have a dehydrator at the Queen’s Head and they certainly put it to good use.

They do sandwiches at lunchtime, and I couldn’t help but overhear that the grandma on the next table thought her fish finger sandwich with homemade tartare sauce was the best she’d ever had, but we were here for more than a light lunch. And, rest assured, the Queen’s Head serves freshly prepared dishes using the finest local ingredients.

Whilst we waited for our starters, out came some squishy olive and garlic focaccia, on an oblong, dark grey plate and matching bowl for the olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

VISIT

T’S BEEN A WHILE SINCE I’VE FREQUENTED WYMONDHAM TOWN CENTRE – thinking about it, it must have been those National Childbirth Trust antenatal classes every Saturday morning, a good 13 years ago.

After all that preparation, I became a mum and my mum became a grandma – and life has never been the same since for either of us! And, due to the circle of life, my dear mum has become something of a lady who lunches of late...

We headed to the Queen’s Head (formerly Kindreds) in the middle of the town. Owner manager Victoria Anderson has really transformed the 17th century inn and it relaunched at the end of last year. This summer has seen the launch of a new terrace area, with my mum much admiring the grasses bordering it. It looks an inviting space while it’s still warm enough to sit outside and enjoy a refreshing drink in the sun.

We sat inside, next to a new mum and her mum, and a three week old baby for my mum to coo over.

The atmosphere is all very relaxed (child friendly/dog friendly) and the décor has a golden touch about it: a print of a gold leaf in a frame here, for example, or the head of a gold and black giraffe on a wall there. And what with the dried corn in little vases, it has an autumnal colour scheme – perfect for the season about to come, I’d say.

I was driving, so couldn’t make the most of the wine list (I also noticed they do a guest gin of the week at the bar) but our friendly waitress suggested we try one of their home made Italian style sodas, made with Monin

SU FR E D N O M VE I N D AY 6 RY N E R .

LU 3 0 N I G N - 8 HT C .4 H 5 12 P -2 M PM

Beechwood Hotel & Restaurant 2 0 C R O M E R R OA D, N O R T H WA L S H A M , N O R F O L K N R 2 8 0 H D W W W. B E E C H W O O D - H O T E L . C O . U K

TEL: 01692 403231

JOIN US FOR AFTERNOON TEA

Spoil yourself with a traditional Sunday lunch CREATED WITH FRESH LOCAL PRODUCE expertly prepared by our brigade of chefs, complemented by a well balanced wine list. The Beechwood offers an intimate bar and inviting Dining Room, creating a relaxing atmosphere conducive to the enjoyment of good food and fine wines

N TO O PE E NT S D I R ES D N ON A N E NTS ID R ES

A LITTLE TEASER FROM THE SUNDAY LUNCH MENU

WALSINGHAM CHEESE TART • GRESSINGHAM DUCK LEG BON BONS • PAN SEARED SEA TROUT GLOUCESTER OLD SPOT ROAST PORK • ROAST RIB OF BEEF • SELECTION OF DESSERTS 16607_Globe_Feast_Ad_Layout 11 18/05/2016 18/05/2016 10:00 10:00 Page Page 11 16607_Globe_Feast_Ad_Layout

ea, Norfolk Norfolk NR23 NR23 1EU 1EU ea,

CAN’T BEAR TO LEAVE WELLS? THEN WHY NOT STAY...

The Globe Inn and Spicer’s House on The Buttlands, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk NR23 1EU Tel: 01328 710206 www.theglobeatwells.co.uk WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA

The Queen's w "you knoHead -

you’re in Norfolk in the summertime when you’re eating samphire " E A T I N G

We didn’t really have room for dessert, but weren’t going to let that stop us, so we shared a condensed milk parfait, with Pimm’s strawberries, and lavender shortbread (£6). What a perfect summer dessert – condensed milk and strawberries was always my favourite combo as a kid.

Finally, I must just mention there are exciting things happening upstairs at the Queen’s Head, including a whole new bar and dining space.

From what I could see so far, it looks well worth checking out - a great place to relax and enjoy one of those guest gin and tonics.

www.queensheadnorfolk.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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My mum loves soup to start – so much so she almost didn’t bother to ask what it was. It turns out it was onion, potato and Cheddar (£5). ‘Gorgeous’, was the verdict (in fact, she was to use this word quite a lot during lunch) - although it proved quite a bowlful for her.

I had the Italian-inspired feta, sun blushed tomato and garlic arancini, with a mixed olive tapenade and watercress salad (£7). The cheesy balls coated in crispy breadcrumbs were really tasty.

My mum loves fishcake and so asked if she could have the Thai salmon fishcakes, with an Asian salad, Thai dressing and crispy noodles (also £7), as a main. Now, I don’t know if it’s an octogenarian thing, but she’s not the first 80-something I know who’d rather have a starter as a main. She reported that the fishcakes were a little bit on the spicy side for her - I guess the clue was in the fact these had a Thai twist.

Perusing the menu, I had skipped over the specials (although I also heard the lady on the next table but one rave about the market beer battered haddock), and followed my starter with seared fillet of seabass, with crab crushed potatoes, fine beans, samphire and red pepper oil (£16). I loved the fishiness of this dish (the crab crushed potatoes in particular), and you know you’re in Norfolk in the summertime when you’re eating samphire. And I must say the presentation was on point.

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Who are you and where do you work?

My name is Daniel Trench and I am the head chef at Briarfields Hotel in Titchwell, on the North Norfolk coast How long have you been there?

I have been here for four and a half years. I started as a Chef de Partie and was promoted to Junior Sous Chef after two years and then to Sous Chef after a further two years and then Head Chef six months ago

MY LIFE ON A PLATE Head chef at Briarfields in North Norfolk, Daniel Trench, is a big seafood fan but his gran’s rice pudding has a special place in his heart

enjoy creating dishes and menus using the most amazing lo cal produce" "I

What is your favourite ingredient?

I love working with fish; the preparation and cooking.

Also salt and pepper, such simple ingredients that aren’t used enough to enhance the flavour of a base ingredient Do you have a favourite gadget?

Water baths are so handy because of the controlled cooking that can be achieved. Food stays moist and tender but you can’t cook everything with a water bath; duck breast for example just doesn’t work

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

What is your signature dish at this time of year?

I haven’t got one standalone dish but I enjoy creating dishes and menus using the most amazing local produce such as Brancaster crab and samphire. Our upcoming A Taste of South America night has been a fantastic opportunity to develop a creative menu around a theme What do you like doing when you are not cooking?

I love walking my dog, Jax, and taking in the stunning Norfolk coastline What would you be doing if you were not a chef?

I’ve never wanted to be anything else!

What are your foodie predictions for the next few months?

Veganism is beginning to be much better accepted into the industry, with many more vegan dishes appearing on menus and fantastic new restaurants opening Tell us about the wine evening you have planned With wine expert Lee Evans of Condor Wines sharing some brilliant bottles from South America, we have developed a gorgeous menu to match. There are beef empanadas and crab croustades to start, followed by seafood ceviche and then an amazing main of slow-cooked Argentinian style beef, plus a zingy lemon meringue cheesecake for dessert. If that doesn’t get your mouth watering, I don’t know what will – although it takes place on Friday 23 November, Briarfields is offering a DBB (wine included!) offer of £250 per couple, so I’d highly recommend kicking back and staying the night!

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Briarfields, Main Road, Titchwell PE31 8BB, call 01485 210742

RECIPE OVERLEAF

Who has inspired you?

I have been inspired by my gran who was the best baker I’ve ever met. She would make everything, from breads to cakes, tarts and an amazing baked rice pudding - that’s real nostalgic food for me

www.briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk

Where did you train?

I trained at The Birmingham College of Food

VISIT

Where were you before?

I was at Habrough Hotel, North Lincolnshire

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NORWICH RESTAURANT WEEK IS PART OF NORFOLK RESTAURANT WEEK

SEAFOOD CEVICHE with Avocado and Coriander Pesto

INGREDIENTS For the ceviche: 4 fillets of sea bass 2 large shallots 50g of fresh dill 2 large lemons Salt and pepper 2 large avocados For the pesto: 1 bunch of coriander 20g of pine nuts 30g of grated Parmesan 2 cloves of garlic 200ml of olive oil Salt and pepper Keta caviar to garnish (optional)

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

DANIEL TRENCH

SERVES FOUR

METHOD For the ceviche Skin the sea bass and dice into cubes no larger than 1cm squared. Finely chop the dill and shallots, zest and juice 1 lemon and mix together with the sea bass and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes Remove the stone and skin the avocado, juice the remaining lemon and smash the avocado and lemon juice in a bowl with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside For the pesto In a food processor add the coriander, pine nuts, grated Parmesan, cloves of garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper and blitz for 30 seconds until combined To plate up, place a ring mould onto your chosen plate, place 1/4 of the avocado mix in the base and press down, take the sea bass mix from the fridge and give it a good mix around and place 1/4 in the ring on top of the avocado. Take some of the pesto and decoratively place around the ring on the plate. Gently remove the ring mould and garnish the top of the ceviche with the Keta caviar

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www.briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk

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SIMON HUNTER MARSH WITH HIS WIFE KATE AND BURT THE DOG

IN THIS MONTH’S PHOTO ESSAY, PROFESSIONAL CHEF AND AVID LOVER OF MOTHER NATURE, SIMON HUNTER MARSH LIKES NOTHING BETTER THAN FORAGING ON THE NORTH NORFOLK COASTLINE FOR HIS SUPPER

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STIFFKEY SALT MARSHES are a forager’s paradise for professional chef Simon Hunter Marsh.

Cockles, bladderwrack, samphire, and sea purslane - it’s all there for the taking, if you know where to look for it. And the best bit? ‘It’s super fresh, seasonal and local,’ says Simon, who lives in Overstrand. ‘I like to take products literally straight from the ground - that’s where the freshness comes from.

‘It takes things back to a more Paleolithic style – where you actually have to go out and find your food and you have to respect it.’

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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Simon is always on the search for whatever is super seasonal, and has devised his own humorously titled foraging dishes such as his ‘meddling crab’ chocolate fondant dessert, with crab apples and sloe berries; his ‘happy as a pig nut in pesto’ (pig nuts are ‘a real pain to find’, apparently!); and his ‘Boadicea’s gold (found it!)’, with smoked Nile perch, gin and water mint sorbet (‘a wild mint I get the from the river at Ingworth’), served with a sea buckthorn syrup.

But, if he had to choose a foraging favourite, it would be wild sea bass, with seashore vegetables, cockles and mussels, poached in an ale from Wild Craft Brewing.

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Meanwhile, for our photoshoot, Simon cooked crab with bladderwrack, alexanders (which is similar to celery), sea aster, cockles and wild leek flowers.

Simon sums up by saying: ‘Norfolk is one of the most amazing places to walk around and forage around, because you’ve got the richness of the coast and all the old oak trees that have been looked after for generations, so you’ve got truffles, the beefsteak mushrooms that grow on the oak trees, and the chicken of the woods mushrooms.

‘To watch a mushroom grow over a period of three or four days, and to harvest them, brings the joy back to cooking.’

Simon Hunter Marsh and Mar Gins Walk and Glamp, based in Cromer, are teaming up this month to offer a foraging and glamping holiday, from September 14 to 16. Visit www.walkandglamp.co.uk or call 07787 534809.

If you would like to share foraging tips with Simon, follow him on Twitter: @simonhuntermar1

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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E IT R U O V FA

MAKE IT A DATE! 29th October - 9th November 2018 EACH PARTICIPATING RESTAURANT OFFERS A FIXED PRICE MENU OR

Restaurant Week menus will be offered Monday - Friday, excluding weekends.

Look out for the full list of participating restaurants later this summer.

Keep up to date by joining us on social media and sign up to our mailing list.

A S PEC IA LI ST I N F OOD PHOTOG R A PHY

www.norfolkrestaurantweek.co.uk

A new, boutique coastal holiday agency offering very special Norfolk retreats for discerning visitors to enjoy.

saltnorfolk.co.uk 01328 887600 info@saltnorfolk.co.uk Holkham, Norfolk Feast Norfolk SALT Feb Ad 2018 195w x130hmm AW.indd 10

06/07/2018 10:18

CHEF 'S WORLD -

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ANDREW JONES

Andrew Jones, chef patron of Farmyard in Norwich and The Dial House in Reepham, tells you to get out foraging before the countryside closes up shop for winter

VISIT

www.farmyardrestaurant.com AND www.thedialhouse.org.uk

AS IF YOU EVEN need a reason to explore the beautiful county we live in, there is nothing more exciting than discovering a secret stash of Mother Nature’s free treasures.

My family and I mainly concentrate our efforts locally – we know where to get our hands on the best sloes (not that I’m going to divulge all my secrets) and there is a bounty of damsons, bullaces, crab apples and rowan berries within small person range of our house.

In the summer there is an abundance of cobnuts, blackberries, elderberries, plums, apples, pears, even wild strawberries and raspberries. In the springtime, wild garlic, watercress and any number of wild herbs and flowers are available to the keen-eyed forager.

The cream of the wild crop, as far as I’m concerned, is elderflower. This otherwise forgettable weed-like shrub develops large white blossoms in early summer which are the quintessential scent and flavour of the British hedgerow. The Norfolk coastline is also a free year-round larder, with samphire, sea purslane, sea beet, sea aster and - if you can be bothered to pick through the prickles - sea buckthorn.

At Farmyard, we have a couple of mushroom pickers that deliver straight to the restaurant when they have been out picking. As much as I am an advocate of foraging for free, I would strongly recommend leaving wild mushroom picking to the experts. There are some very dangerous mushrooms out there and plenty that can make you unwell if you mistake them for an edible variety.

This is what I’m out hunting for: Damsons - I like to make delicious, tart, deep purple jam Bullaces - a close relative of the damson but smaller and sourer. Great stewed and served with ice cream Blackberries - essential for crumbles, also make delicious cordials and blackberry vodka Cobnuts - great for desserts and biscuits Crab apples - crab apple jelly, fantastic with pheasant And my favourite - sloes. If you’ve never made sloe gin what have you been doing?! There are countless recipes around for sloe gin. I find most too sweet. The sloes need some sugar to overcome the tartness, but I find too much overpowers the almond flavour of the fruit. Use a gin that you’d be happy to drink, after all the work picking you don’t want to end up with a disappointing end product We’ll be launching Christmas hampers this month at The Dial House which will feature my own chutney made in the kitchen from local produce as well as bits from my favourite suppliers at both Farmyard and The Dial House, so if you get too distracted to get picking, or someone like me gets to that blackberry bush first, you could save yourself the ramble, and order it all from us.

MADE R E V E N E 'V U O Y F "I E YOU V A H t A H W , IN G E SLO ?"

BEEN DOING

You can also keep upto-date with Andrew via his monthly newsletter - Farmyard Confidential subscribe online

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Wine, Dine and Stay The George Hotel and No. 10 Arlington Coffee lounge, Bar and Bistro in Norwich has become the place to meet, eat and sleep following its recent transformation. Emma Outten reports

S

ince the Negus family took ownership of The George Hotel and No. 10 The Arlington Bistro in Norwich last year, the Victorian townhouse has undergone quite a transformation. Owner Maxine Negus explains: 'A year ago we decided to start on an extensive renovation.' Maxine is an artist, and her artistic flare now resonates throughout this beautiful boutique hotel, which is set in a quiet corner on Arlington Lane, just off Newmarket Road. 'The opportunity to bring such an amazing building back to its former glory has been a real challenge but also a real pleasure.'

VISIT

www.thegeorgehotel.co.uk

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General manager Julie Ashworth adds: 'There’s been a significant rebranding of both the hotel and restaurant, allowing the two businesses to have their own distinct identities but working together to provide a fabulous place to eat and stay for both residents and non-residents alike.'

No. 10 The Arlington Coffee Lounge, Bar and Bistro has had a complete makeover. Gone is the railway carriage atmosphere - it has been opened up, with comfortable contemporary furnishings and décor throughout. Delicious food is served all day, providing a relaxed meeting place for breakfasts, morning coffee (perfect for the post school runs!). lunches, afternoon teas, after work drinks and nibbles, all the way through to a more extensive bar and evening bistro menu, developed by long-standing Head Chef Paul Brandford and his team. ‘The chefs here are amazing,’ says Maxine, ‘and the quality of produce is second to none.' And, as the Negus family also own Breckland Lodge, diners can expect some popular dishes from the sister restaurant to make a guest appearance including their famous cheese scones!

At No.10 The Arlington, the focus is very much on seasonal produce, using local suppliers such as Hazel’s Butchers and Howard and Son fishmongers, plus Paul is well known for his secret recipe, home baked desserts. There’s also a good selection of gluten free, dairy free and vegan dishes on offer.

The bar boasts a range of real ales, craft beers, lagers, wines and spirits, many locally sourced. With the strong family connection, expect to see a great selection from The English Whisky Co featuring behind the bar.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

As for the George Hotel itself, there are 43 ensuite bedrooms ranging from standard to executive and deluxe rooms including a two-bedroom annex room with its own private walled garden! They also have a lovely room available for hire for those looking for private gatherings and meetings.

As Julie says: ‘Every room is slightly different, so there is no standard impersonal corporate feel, it’s all very much bespoke, with brilliant staff providing a warm friendly yet professional welcome. We just want everyone to feel at home and enjoy all Norwich has to offer.'

" The opportunity to bring such an amazing building back to its fo rmer glory has been a real challenge but also a real pleasure " 53

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Our free from recipe writer Sara Matthews has two dishes for us this month, including a seasonal classic

SARA MATTHEWS is a qualified trainer, food consultant, recipe developer and food writer

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apple and berry crumble tart This tart is a nutrition packed twist on a traditional crumble recipe. I have used blackberries and blueberries, but you can use a combination of SERVES any berries you have

METHOD Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Lightly grease a 9 inch loose bottomed flan case. Add the berries, maple syrup and arrowroot to a bowl, gently stir to coat and combine. Set aside.

Add the walnut and pumpkin seeds to a food processor and blitz until they are a small crumb, not powder. Save for later. Core and thinly slice the apples, place in a bowl, cover with lemon juice. In a bowl, add the ground almonds, oats, flax seed, maple syrup, baking powder and cinnamon, then stir to combine. Add the cubed butter and rub with your fingers to make your crumble texture. The mixture should hold together when pressed. Set aside a good quarter of the mixture. Press the remaining mixture into the flan case, remembering to also press up to the sides to form the case of the tart. Use the back of a spoon to smooth. Make sure there are no holes. Layer the apple slices over the base of the tart. Pour over the berry mixture and spread out evenly over the case. Add the chopped walnuts and pumpkin seeds to the remaining mixture and evenly sprinkle over the flan to form the crumble topping. Bake in the oven for 40-45 minutes, until the crumble crust is lightly brown. After 20-25 minutes in the oven, cover with tin foil to stop the crumble top from burning. Serve with dairy free ice-cream

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INGREDIENTS Crust 200g of ground almonds; 100g of gluten free oats; 3tbsp of maple syrup; 1tsp of baking powder; ½ tsp of salt (optional) 2tsp of flax seeds; 60g of hard vegan butter (I used Stork block, you could use coconut oil), cubed; 1tsp of cinnamon; 25g of flaked toasted almonds; 25g of walnuts; 25g of pumpkin seeds Filling 2 apples, cored and thinly sliced; juice of 1 lemon; 350g of berries 2tbsp of maple syrup; 2tsp of arrowroot powder or tapioca starch

[Serves 4- 6

Lentil and Sweetcorn Kofta Curry This is a great tasting curry, full of flavour but not overly hot. For ease and quickness, the koftas and curry paste can be made in advance and stored in the fridge until needed. Makes 24-26 kofta balls

INGREDIENTS Lentil Koftas 200g of dried lentils, soaked overnight or for at least 4 hours, rinsed thoroughly and drained; 2cm of piece fresh ginger, grated; 3 cloves of garlic, crushed; 1tsp of paprika; 2tsp of garam masala; 1tsp of cumin; 1tsp of turmeric; ½ tsp of mild chilli powder (if you like it spicy you can add more); 1tsp of ground coriander; handful of fresh coriander, chopped; juice of 1 lime; 2 carrots, grated; 1 red onion, chopped; 1 small tin (160g) of sweetcorn, drained; salt and pepper to taste Curry Paste 1 large onion, roughly chopped; 1 green chilli ; handful of fresh coriander; 2 cloves of garlic; 2cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated; 1tbsp of garam masala; 1tsp of turmeric; juice of 1 lime www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Curry Sauce 1tsp of black onion seeds; 1tsp of cumin seeds; 4tbsp of tomato purée; 400g tin of chopped tomatoes; 250-300ml of vegetable stock; 100g of spinach; salt and pepper to taste METHOD Preheat oven to 180ºC. Place all the kofta ingredients, apart from the grated carrot and sweetcorn, in a food processor and blitz until they form a chunky paste.

Transfer to a bowl and stir in the grated carrot and sweetcorn. Refrigerate for 15-20 minutes. Cover a baking tray in parchment.

Roll the paste into 24-26 balls and place on the prepared baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until lightly golden and the outside is firm to touch. Turn over halfway through baking to ensure an even bake.

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Meanwhile, place all the curry paste ingredients into a small food processor and blitz to make a paste.

For the sauce: in a large saucepan add the cumin seeds and black onion seeds. Heat on medium to high heat until they become aromatic and start to pop, then add the curry paste. Turn the heat to medium and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring to combine.

Add the tomato purée and cook for a further 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the tomatoes, 250ml of the stock, and season to taste. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 8-10 minutes. The sauce should be quite thick. If it is too thick add a little more stock. Finally, add the spinach and cook for a further 2-3 minutes until the spinach starts to wilt.

Add the cooked koftas to the curry and stir gently to coat them in the sauce. Ladle into bowls and serve with rice or quinoa and a wedge of lime.

SERVING LOCAL BUSINES SES FOR OVE R 40 YEARS

Fruit, vegetables, dairy & more delivered to your BUSINESS including bespoke, hand-prepared vegetables

www.eastersofnorwich.com 156-158 NORTHUMBERLAND ST, NORWICH, NORFOLK, NR2 4EE TEL: 01603 622890

White House Farm -

C O L U M N

DATE FOR THE DIARY - The next Farmers’ Market is on September 15.

WHITE HOUSE FARM, WROXHAM ROAD, NORWICH

THE MOST GLORIOUS SUMMER IS DRAWING TO A CLOSE and we are encouraging our customers to gather up the last of our apples and pears, sun kissed and delicious, and ready for the winter ahead. The butcher has some exceptional pork and apple sausages, made with apples off the farm and local pork from our select suppliers.

Paul, at our cider shack, has had a bumper crop, and his Norfolk Raider cider is available in our shop. He has a wonderful range of flavours, but the Dolly Pink is still the farmer’s favourite.

Our daughter, Olivia, received an overwhelming amount of love on social media as she watched the harvest at the farm, getting

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www.norwich-pyo.co.uk

CHARLOTTE GURNEY OF WHITE HOUSE FARM, NEAR NORWICH, LOVES THIS FRUIT LADEN SEASON BUT HAS HALF AN EYE ON CHRISTMAS FUN

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some very good waves and toot toots from the combine harvester! It always gives me such pleasure showing young minds how our bread is created. Norfolk is a fantastic county for helping you feel close to the farming community, no matter where you live. But nowhere celebrates the harvest season more than the Aylsham Show on Bank Holiday Monday, where we had a strong presence with our award winning sausages, cider and our veg team, Fresh Approach, all showcasing what grows in the fields in and around Aylsham.

We were proudly awarded the title of ‘Best Food and Drink Retailer’ from around the county, after so many years of entering. It’s a great accolade and, as ever, a nod to our hard working team who have helped us grow and develop as fast as we have over the last five years.

But, looking forward, it is now full steam ahead for our famous Christmas Market where we have more than 100 stalls, some local, and some from far and wide, offering food and wine delights, as well as Christmas wreaths, crafts, charms, fabrics, and knits.

It is fast becoming known as Norwich’s biggest Christmas Market, is under cover with free parking, and is not a date to be missed, so grab your friends and come and join us for the two day bumper weekend, on November 17 and 18. It’s the perfect place for a spot of festive shopping.

THE FRUITS OF OUR LABOUR

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SHOPPING IT’S THE TIME OF YEAR TO GET BAKING SO ENJOY OUR RANGE OF GOODIES TO HELP YOU PRODUCE THE PERFECT APPLE PIE OR BLACKBERRY MUFFIN!

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01. All from the Kitchen Craft Animal Farm range. Pie dish, £15, utensil holder £14.50, oven glove, £10, scales £40, The Kitchenary, Taverham Craft Centre, Norwich, www.kitchenary.co.uk 02. Robert Welch pie server, £17.50, John Lewis, www.johnlewis.co.uk 03. Tala Cook's Mini Measures, £3.49 each, Roys of Wroxham, www.roys.co.uk 04. Pumpkin serving dish, £45, Laura Ashley, www.lauraashley.co.uk 05. Masterclass smart ceramic non-stick muffin tray, £12.99, House, Intu Chapelfield, Norwich, www.houseUK.com 06. Mason Cash rolling pin and flour shaker, £15.95, Bakers and Larners, Holt, www.bakersandlarners.co.uk

16 Taverham Craft Centre

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Fir Covert Road, Taverham Norfolk NR8 6HT Tel: 01603 261932 www.kitchenary.co.uk

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INGREDIENTS 500g block of ready rolled puff pastry FOR THE APPLE PURÉE 2 large cooking apples, peeled and cored Juice of 1 lemon 4 tbsp (or to taste) of caster sugar A good pinch of cinnamon FOR THE APPLE TOPPING 3 eating apples, cored and finely sliced 2tbsp of caster sugar 50g of unsalted butter (melted) TO GLAZE 1tbsp of apricot jam 3tsp of water

METHOD

AN APPLE A DAY

LUCY BARTLETT SHARES HER RECIPE FOR A REAL SEASONAL FAVOURITE - APPLE TART

TARTE FINE AUX POMMES (SE RV ES 8 –1 2 )

FOR ME this is the taste of autumn. It can be made significantly ahead of time, freezes brilliantly and looks and tastes as though it requires much more skill and effort than it does!

I usually make it a single large rectangular tart, although it also works well as individual or large rounds.

INGREDIENTS FOR COOKS is a family-run Suffolk-based business which supplies a wide variety of ingredients for both home and professional cooks. Visit www.ingredientsforcooks.co.uk

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1. Make the purée, combining the cored, peeled, cooking apples, lemon juice, cinnamon and sugar with a little water and stirring over a moderate heat until you have a lump free purée 2. Roll out the puff pastry on a sheet of baking parchment to the thickness of a one pound coin (or simply unroll if using pre rolled). Score a 2cm margin around the edge of the pastry with a sharp knife 3. Spread the apple purée evenly inside the scored margin, then layer the finely sliced eating apples in rows over the apple purée. Brush the apples and exposed pastry liberally with the melted butter and then sprinkle over the caster sugar 4. Refrigerate for at least half an hour or until ready to cook. The tart can also be frozen at this point 5. When ready to cook. Heat the oven to 200°C the tart requires a hot oven to ensure both crisp pastry and a well coloured topping.

Place a large baking sheet in the oven to heat up 6. When the oven and baking sheet are hot, transfer the uncooked chilled tart on its baking parchment directly onto the hot baking sheet and place in the top of the oven 7. Check after 12 minutes - the topping and pastry should be golden - if not quite ready give it a couple more minutes 8. Remove from oven and, while still hot, thinly glaze the apple topping with warmed apricot jam 9. Serve warm with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream

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JULIA Martin

Julia Martin

who is busy restocking her pantry with all manner of vegetarian and vegan treats

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www.purpleplumcatering.co.uk

It is a bountiful time of year for

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A JOYFUL SEASON

AS I’M OBSESSED WITH ALL THINGS MIDDLE EASTERN, for me, the most important part of my kitchen is the pantry as it always contains a variety of different foods, all preserved naturally, to be used throughout the year.

You will find a variety of goodies such as salted white cheese, strained yogurt balls (labaneh), olive oil, pickled olives and veggies, grains, jams, molasses, and dried herbs. It is restocked constantly, mostly during spring and autumn, which is a joy to do - and makes for a very relaxing day.

Autumn is an amazing time of year, especially here in Norfolk, when so many wonderful vegetables are in abundance and it’s a great opportunity to use them in gorgeous bowls of comfort food! I love the colours of squashes, the texture of cauliflowers, spinach, kale, and cabbage - the list is endless and being mainly veggie/ vegan, this is a joyful season for me.

One fruit that is plentiful is aubergine and it is used extensively in Middle Eastern cuisine, especially makdous. This is a light dish and is usually eaten at breakfast as part of a spread of different foods such as labaneh, tomatoes, and green leaves with a cup of tea. It is prepared by stuffing baby aubergines with walnut, red chilli, and garlic and then preserving them in lots of olive oil and stacking them in a jar for 10-14 days.

It has a strong taste which really packs a punch!

I also really enjoy the taste of the oil after it has been used with the makdous, as it becomes enriched with all the different flavours. The name makdous comes from the Arabic verb ‘kadasa’ which means to stack.

There are two important things to keep in mind when buying baby aubergine: 1) taste one to make sure that they are not bitter and 2) the smaller the aubergine, the better!

We are starting to supply some of our wonderful salads and Buddha bowls to Kuzma The Spice Merchant at Earlham House, Earlham Road in Norwich. They sell incredible herbs, spices and ingredients, plus jars and bottles of things I have never heard of! It is a real food emporium, and I’m delighted to join them. Do pop in, if you can, and see what they do. And look out for their supper evenings, too.

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ELAINE REILLY

SMALL BUSINESS OWNER ELAINE REILLY OF MUSTARD COFFEE BAR LOOKS FORWARD TO THE NEW SEASON

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important issues these days and in our industry the long hours and financial pressures are not always conducive to good mental health. Pressures on small businesses are enormous and I would urge everyone to shop local where possible.

For any small business, having a strong and reliable team behind you is so important. Everything I do is only thanks to the great people around me and I hope they know how much they are appreciated.

September also brings lots of life back to the city as our students return to both universities and colleges. It’s as if the city has suddenly woken from its summer slumbers. Students arrive in our city, often being away from home for the first time, and can find themselves a little lost in their new environment. We love that our little cafe has become a second home to many over the years.

For us, as a family, we will be especially looking forward to October when we will be celebrating five years ww in our venture. I learnt a curious w. m us fact recently. As we know, ta Bridewell Alley is named after the jail that stood there. The jail was destroyed in a great fire which also laid waste to many businesses.

The fire took place on October 22 1751 and, in a strange coincidence, that is the date that we first opened the doors five years ago!

• Mustard Coffee Bar, Bridewell Alley, Norwich, opens Tuesday to Saturday, 8am-5pm

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T'S FUNNY HOW the changing seasons have such an impact on us here at Mustard. The end of summer sees the end of those gloriously long evenings, enjoying all the open spaces the city has to offer, and we start to think about the days getting shorter.

As September comes round, we start to look forward to all the wonderful autumn produce that the region produces. Harvest time means glorious butternut squash soups and delicious apple cakes.

I have a particular favourite that I like to make, a strawberry and apple crumble cake using the last of the summer’s strawberry crops. I also find myself increasingly looking to our Scandinavian cousins for ideas and inspiration. That in turn means an update in menus which is always a difficult task. I’m sure fellow business owners will agree that it is hard to balance wanting to bring in exciting new products while keeping core favourites available.

But I do love to play around with recipes, and there are normally lots of willing volunteers to ‘test’ my latest experiment.

Talking of our interest as a nation in all things Nordic, the term ‘hygge’ may be a bit of a worn out expression, but still the concept of kindness and looking after one’s self has much to recommend it. Wellbeing and mental health are such

Cookbooks

Cooking the Books What a line-up of new cookbooks there is this month, including ones from Joe Wicks and Yotam Ottolenghi!

OTTOLENGHI SIMPLE

£10 OF F

by Yotam Ottolenghi

Jarrold price £15 RRP £25 With £10 off the recommended retail price, this stylish yet simple book offers 130 new recipes from one of Britain’s most influential chefs. Most dishes require just one pot and take under half an hour to prepare but all have his trademark vibrancy and are what’s called flavour forward!

Expect a strong Middle Eastern theme - Ottolenghi was born in Israel - and plenty of vegetables!

His standout dishes include hot charred cherry tomatoes with cold yoghurt; puy lentils with aubergines, tomatoes and yoghurt; slow cooked chicken with a crisp corn crust.

Discover Jarrold BOOK DEPARTMENT Plus Chapters Coffee Bar - the perfect place to take a few moments out of your shopping or to sit and relax with friends.

With over 30,000 book titles we’re proud to be a (deliberately) old-fashioned independent bookseller and are completely focused on bringing our customers the very best range and service we can.

UPCOMING BOOK & AUTHOR EVENTS

jarrold.co.uk/events LONDON ST. NORWICH 01603 660661

COOKING ON A BOOTSTRAP THE LITTLE SWEDISH KITCHEN

by Rachel Khoo

DELICIOUSLY ELLA - THE PLANT BASED COOKBOOK

Jarrold price £15 RRP £20

by Ella Mills (Woodward)

Rachel Khoo packed up her life in Paris and moved to Sweden in the pursuit of love. Having made the country her home, she now shares 100 seasonal Swedish recipes with her own twists. Expect breakfast blueberry pie; smoked sausage stroganoff; fish tacos; roasted pumpkin waffles; Swedish meatballs and beanballs, and lingonberry almond buns.

In her latest book, Ella shares her most in-demand plantbased recipes from her supper clubs and pop-up deli menus, alongside a diary of her journey from food blogger to author and entrepreneur. The accompanying photography is as attractive as always.

Jarrold price £20 RRP £25

Jack Monroe

Jarrold price £12.99 RRP £14.99 This is a follow-up to A Girl Called Jack, poverty campaigner and activist on hunger issues, Jack Monroe's first cookbook. This sequel makes cooking on a shoestring or bootstrap budget fun and delicious, with 118 recipes including fluffy berry pancakes; Marmite mac'n'cheese and hot sardines with a herby sauce.

HUGH JOHNSON'S POCKET WINE BOOK 2019 Hugh Johnson £12.99

For wine drinkers and keepers, this handy guide, now in its 42nd edition, is full of references about wines, growers and regions around the world. It includes tips on which vintages are best for now and which are best to cellar. There is also food matching and an extra bit on organic, natural and biodynamic wines.

DI AR Y DA TE S

September 18, 12 for 12:30pm

JOE'S 30-MINUTE MEALS: 100 QUICK AND HEALTHY RECIPES Joe Wicks

Jarrold price £10 RRP £20

Do n' t mi ss

This is the Body Coach's latest book of fast, nutritious suppers. Each recipe is labelled low-carb or carbrefuel. Chapters are organised by the main ingredient, making it easy to find one that fits with what's in the fridge. Popular crowd pleasers include: Bang Bang chicken stir fry and, for a speedy supper, Joe's sausage and mushroom pie is a foolproof winner from the half hour range.

JARROLD AUTUMN LITERARY LUN

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including ex-SAS soldier and bes tselling thriller writer, Chris Ryan , Top of the Terrace rest aurant, Norwich City Football Club. See online for full details.

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NOW REOPENED

Middle of nowhere, centre of everywhere!

Fresh, local and seasonal is our ethos here at the Saracen’s Head, so come and enjoy a delicious, locally sourced meal with us We are open 7 days a week, but do close in the afternoons.

Lunch: Mon-Sat 12-2pm; Sun 12.30-2.30pm Evenings: Tues-Sat 6.30-8.30pm; Sun-Mon 6-8pm You are always best to make a booking.

Call us on 01263 768909 or email info@saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk

TAKEAWAY CRABS & LOBSTER AVAILABLE FROM 10AM OPENING TIMES: SUN-THURS 10-5pm; FRI-SAT 10-8pm SERVING FOOD FROM 12 with Surf and Turf on Friday and Saturday CALL US: 01263 837359 OR 07999 959760 CROMER ROAD, WEST RUNTON, NORFOLK, NR27 9QA

www.saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk

Fresh, local and seasonal is our ethos here at the Saracens. Being in the middle of nowhere is the perfect excuse to come and enjoy a meal whilst you explore this wonderful part of North Norfolk. Our full menu is available every day, lunch and dinner and in addition we have our summer lunch menu from Monday to Saturday. Sunday lunches are very special and we offer the most delicious roast rump of Blickling reared beef.

If it’s too far to travel for a meal, why not stay the night and make a quick break of it!

Summer Opening Times In July & August we will be open 7 days a week this summer Lunch orders will be taken from 12.00 to 2.30 Dinner from 6.30 to 9.00, except Sundays and Mondays 6.30 to 8.30

The Ship Hotel, Brancaster, offers boutique stays in 9 beautifully appointed en-suite rooms.

Located on the North Norfolk coast, a designated area of outstanding natural beauty, The Ship offers a perfect base for enjoying long walks along the beach followed by a hearty lunch or dinner in our award winning restaurant and bar. We’re also pet friendly!

The Ship Hotel, Brancaster, Norfolk PE31 8AP | T: 01485 210333 reception@shiphotelnorfolk.co.uk | www.shiphotelnorfolk.co.uk

www.rockybottoms.co.uk

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AT YOUR LEISURE

FANCY IMPRESSING YOUR FRIENDS AT YOUR NEXT DINNER PARTY? THEN LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THE COOKERY COURSES AT CITY COLLEGE NORWICH! EMMA OUTTEN HEARS MORE

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www.ccn.ac.uk

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UDDING MASTER CHEFS and the like are spoilt for choice when it comes to the part time leisure courses on offer at City College Norwich.

There’s ample opportunity to get creative in the kitchen, with a choice of five-week and 10-week courses available, and even a week-long Junior Chef Summer Academy at the end of the academic year.

And there’s something for everyone, as Leisure Learning Manager Sharon Farrant explains. First up there’s the classic Sugar Craft course, where you can learn to create traditional and contemporary sugar craft flowers which are the perfect finish for a celebration cake or table decoration.

Then there’s A Touch of Patisserie and Confectionery, which is not a baking course as such - instead, you will learn how to temper chocolate to make chocolate treats. ‘If you want to do baking, you would do our Bake Off course,’ explains Sharon.

The Great British Bake Off course has, unsurprisingly, been designed for adults who want to explore the popular, award-winning television baking competition. Sharon says: ‘The 10-week course takes you all the way from baking bread to baking cakes.’ So no more soggy bottomed Victoria sponges!

The Junior Chef course, which takes place on a Saturday morning and is aimed at young chefs aged 10-15, is always popular, as is The Basics of Italian Cookery, with Sharon saying: ‘On this five week course you can learn how to make things like gnocchi and pasta sauces.’

Whereas the Gastro Masterchef course is ideally suited for the home cook, and is perfect for impressing your friends at dinner parties, according to Sharon, who explains that although the first five weeks are structured, the second half is more flexible, meaning you might all decide that one week you want to learn to make a Thai curry, for example.

And, Sharon adds, ‘we have a new course coming up: Christmas Classics.’ Whereas the other courses start this month, this five-week course starts in November, so do get booking!

Plus, she says: ‘We’re hoping at some point in the future to do masterclasses with specialist chefs.’ So watch this space for information about, say a Persian or Indian evening.

Most courses can accommodate a dozen or so people, but whichever course you go on, Sharon emphasises: ‘One thing I would say is that the chefs here have got a huge amount of industry experience to a high level. So although it is a leisure course, you are still taught the skills you would need as if you were a professional.’

The cookery courses are just some of the 50 or more leisure courses on offer at the college and are a real success story, with Sharon saying: ‘The customer feedback has been very positive.’

FOR MORE INFORMATION, Visit www.ccn.ac.uk/leisure-learning

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Join us for AFTERNOON

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served 3-4.30pm

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WHAT REALLY MATTERS

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OVER 300 DELICIOUS DISHES FREE FRIENDLY DELIVERY TRUSTED LOCAL SERVICE

C O L U M N

ASK ROGER * ROGER HICKMAN'S

SCALLOPS WITH APPLES

QUEStION & ANSWER ROGER HICKMAN, CHEF-PROPRIETOR OF NORWICH'S ROGER HICKMAN’S RESTAURANT, SHARES HIS TOP KITCHEN TIPS AND ANSWERS YOUR QUESTIONS ON ALL THINGS CULINARY

W

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hen I am cooking, should I use salted or unsalted butter?

That’s easy – always use unsalted butter. That way you can control the seasoning yourself, and don’t run the risk of making your dish too salty, particularly if the recipe calls for a fair amount of butter to be used. Also, salted butter has a lower burn/flash point, so you are more likely to end up with a burnt taste in your food.

The same applies in baking, where some people think you should use salted. There is

www.rogerhickmansrestaurant.com ROGER HICKMAN

[Serves 4

nothing wrong with salted butter - it’s delicious. Just save it for your toast!

Pretty much every meat recipe says you should ‘rest’ the meat after cooking. What does this mean, and why is it necessary?

When you cook meat, you are stressing the fibres, and the whole cut will tense up under heat. Resting it after cooking allows the meat to relax again. This will allow the meat to reabsorb all of the juices, leading to a moister and more succulent taste experience. You will have noticed how unrested meat will often leak blood into a surrounding sauce - this doesn’t happen if the meat has been properly rested.

The rule of thumb for red meat is that you should let it rest for half the amount of time you have cooked it for. So for a steak which may have cooked for two minutes either side, you need to let it rest for at least two minutes; for a bigger piece of meat which may have roasted for an hour, let it rest for half an hour. If you cover it with foil and let it rest in a warm place (but not a hot oven), it will retain its heat for a surprising amount of time.

This doesn’t apply to slow-cooked meats, which will have experienced a lower level of heat and so will be less stressed. And poultry flesh has a different structure, so a roast chicken should only need 10 minutes resting.

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INGREDIENTS

6 scallops 2 Granny Smith apples a knob of butter rapeseed oil a cooking chorizo (those from Brindisa are best) nasturtiums and pea shoots to garnish dill or chive oil METHOD Cut one of the apples in half and put both halves in a small baking dish with the knob of butter. Cook in the oven at 180°C for about 15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly and then blitz the whole lot (core included) in a food processor. Pass through a fine sieve to create a smooth purée.

Cut the chorizo into 1cm pieces. Roast these in the oven at 180°C for about 10 minutes, until you see the paprika oil starting to come out. Blitz the pieces into a coarse crumb, and then tip out onto a clean J cloth to soak up any remaining oil, leaving you with a dry chorizo crumb.

Cut the scallops in half, and sear in a hot pan with a little rape seed oil for 30 seconds on each side. You are aiming for the outsides to be caramelised, while the insides should still be moist.

Serve the scallops on a plate with the apple purée and the chorizo crumb, along with apple batons cut from the second apple. Garnish with nasturtiums and pea shoots, and drizzle with a little dill or chive oil.

*If you have a question for Roger, send it to sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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FOOD FO O D TO TO G O GO

www.elmvalley.co.uk

FORMER CHEF ALASTAIR WARD NOW RUNS A FOOD DELIVERY COMPANY IN SUFFOLK. HE TELLS US ABOUT THE EXPANDING BUSINESS WHICH SUPPLIES EVERYTHING A FOODIE NEEDS!

Restaurant, 2 Michelin starred Gidleigh Park in Devon and Charlie Trotters in Chicago. My wife and I also ran our own restaurant in The Cotswolds for five years where we had a Bib Gourmand. When I joined the business I bought a wealth of product knowledge and a real understanding of the customers’ needs.

Who are you and what do you do?

My name is Alastair Ward and I am the managing director of Elm Valley Foods, based in Elmswell near Bury St Edmunds.

How many people do you employ?

We employ 15 people in various departments from dispatch and delivery, night shift, accounts, sales, purchasing and telesales. We all help each other and work really well as a team.

How would you describe Elm Valley Foods?

We are a delivered food service company supplying hotels, restaurants, pubs, nursing homes and all other sorts of outlets with the goods that they need to run their businesses on a daily basis. We pride ourselves on our service and willingness to deliver. We have recruited people with first hand food knowledge which hugely helps us communicate with our customers. We list a plethora of products from delicious extra virgin olive oil to cling film, from frozen pastries to brioche buns.

Tell us about your location and delivery area We chose Elmswell due to its central location within our delivery area. Our daily routes go to all areas of East Anglia in different directions. We deliver to North Norfolk and along the coast all the way to Felixstowe, across to Colchester, over to Huntingdon and all points in-between.

Any future plans?

Our goal will be to continue to grow and improve on a daily basis, to have more vans on the road and be known in the area as a great, consistent supplier in East Anglia. We have great customers and staff so I am sure we will realise this dream!

What is your background?

Prior to joining Elm Valley I was a chef for 20 years, working at great restaurants and hotels such as Rick Stein’s Seafood

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Exploring Norfolk?

Be our guest. norfolkcottages.co.uk 01263 715779

holidays@norfolkcottages.co.uk

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The Surrey Kitchen and Bar

STICKY FINGERS

THE SURREY KITCHEN AND BAR, right in the heart of Norwich, has only been open a few months but is already a firm favourite with shoppers and the after work crowd.

With fresh seasonal food from head chef Richard Herring, there’s also a popular cocktail menu and a wide range of gins plus a good selection of craft beers on offer.

This summer, a chilled unit filled with homemade, delicious cakes, fruits, salads and pastries, along with a new sundae and milkshake menu, has been added, while the garden has been the place to soak up all the glorious sunshine.

And, as autumn arrives, expect the woodburner to be lit and the comfy sofas become very attractive spots to chill out. Keep an eye on Facebook and Instagram for updates.

Here’s a quick and easy sweet treat for all the family to enjoy from pastry chef Jordy Bennett:

[Makes 10 slices

INGREDIENTS Cakes: 350g of dates; 600ml of water; 2tsp of bicarbonate of soda; 350g of caster sugar ; 100g of butter, unsalted; 4 eggs; 350g of self raising flour Icing: 100g of butter; 200g of icing sugar; 1tbsp of caramel syrup

METHOD Preheat oven to 170°C 1. Grease and line an 8 inch tray 2. Boil together the dates, water and bicarb until dates are softened 3. Blitz together in a food processor or blender until smooth with no lumps 4. Leave to cool 5. Whilst the date mixture is cooling, cream together the butter and sugar 6. Add the flour and then the eggs, one by one 7. Finally add the date mix 8. Pour into mould, then bake for 25 mins 9. Let the cake mixture cool 10. Mix all the ingredients for the icing together in bowl 11. Then simply ice and enjoy!

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Howard and Son of norwich -

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Venison and Mushroom Stroganoff Here’s a tasty, seasonal recipe from Howard and Son of Norwich

[Serves 4

INGREDIENTS 600g of venison fillet; 2 shallots, finely chopped; clove of garlic, finely chopped; 200g of chestnut mushrooms, sliced; 150ml of white wine; 1l of fresh venison stock or chicken stock; 50g of cocktail gherkins, cut into thin strips; 1tsp of smoked paprika; 25g of butter; 500ml of double cream; vegetable oil for frying; chopped parsley, for garnish; salt and pepper

METHOD 1. Pour the stock into a saucepan and allow it to reduce by three quarters.

2. Add a little oil to a frying pan and heat until smoking hot. Fry off half the seasoned venison quickly, so it seals well but does not cook. Put the cooked meat on one side, add more oil to the pan and reheat. Seal the rest of the venison in the same way.

3. Once all the meat is sealed, use the same pan to melt the butter and sweat off the shallots and garlic until soft. Add the smoked paprika, cook for another two minutes, add the wine and reduce by two thirds. Next, add the reduced stock, bring to the boil, and reduce by a third.

4. Add the cream and reduce to a consistency that will coat the back of a spoon.

5. Once the sauce is at the right consistency, add the meat and stir well. Cook for a further five minutes, then add the gherkins, stir, correct the seasoning and serve with rice, garnishing it all with a little chopped parsley.

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CROMER CRAB AND LOBSTER

est. 1889

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G

OOD FOOD AND BEER go hand in hand. In fact, there is a growing trend for matching what you drink with your meal these days; be it gin tasters, wine flights or beer pairings.

The fantastic flavours in beer that enable this matching come from one of the main ingredients in brewing, the hops.

Hops come from the flower of the hop plant (Humulus lupulus) and there is an increasing variety of plants arriving at breweries from around the world. Different hop plants are being developed all the time, with exciting and new varieties being tested and trialed – did you know it can take up to 11 years for a hop plant to become commercially available?

All hops provide differing flavours which means lots of options when it comes to pairing up with food. The number of pubs offering beer flights with matched food dishes is continually increasing and some restaurants now recommend specific beers for items on their menu. There is even a growing number of dedicated companies offering beer and food matching bespoke menus, evenings out and even trips including visits to breweries in the UK and abroad.

As people travel and experience more diversity, their palates become more refined and the demand for food and drink matching grows, giving another route to market for pubs, cafĂŠs and restaurants. This is great for the world of beer and the world of food as it means collaboration between local businesses becomes more viable, with networking and community spirit enhanced. Why not tie up a local dish with a local brew?

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Woodforde’s Brewery -

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THIS MONTH’S BEER COLUMN DISCUSSES THAT PERFECT MARRIAGE - BEER AND FOOD!

Hand In Hand " At Woodforde’s, we use bittering hops to balance the malt flavours the brewing process produces and we use aroma hops to add fragrance to our beer."

VISIT

It’s been an exciting summer at Woodforde’s Brewery with plenty of events and exciting new partnerships. We had a great few days at the Royal Norfolk Show in June, serving thousands of pints of beer and our Go Go Hare Hareatio Nelson arrived. Woodforde’s Kitchen at Jimmy’s Festival played host to some fantastic chefs such as Joe Hurd, BOSH and DJ BBQ and we paired all their recipes with our beers – much to the delight of the audience! Our Norfolk Day garden party was a great success and we announced the fantastic news that we’re the new sponsors of the Barclay Stand at Carrow Road, the home of Norwich City Football Club!

Marks and Spencer took its second delivery of British Lager, and we canned Norada for the first time. Beer news will continue, so keep an eye out during October for our new seasonal ale, Tundra; a Belgian White IPA pulling together strong citrus flavours and aromas, creating a blend of crisp, tantalising tastes.

Be sure to come visit us in Woodbastwick, drop in for a beer flight and some fantastic food to match, or why not join us on a brewery tour and learn more about how we brew our beer!

We’re on Facebook and Twitter as @woodfordesbeer.

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www.woodfordes.co.uk

As an example, our hoppy pale ale Norada pairs well with spicy foods like buffalo chicken wings, thanks to the zesty Summit and piquant First Gold hops. Norfolk Nog, our dark ale, pairs with a dish such as pork belly vindaloo as its rich, chocolatey taste keeps the palette warm and envelops the meal with a velvety blanket of gorgeous taste.

Why not give it a try at home, too? A chilli requires a robust beer, so go for a best bitter or a strong ale. The hops used in these beers will pay homage to the intense flavours of the meat and rich sauce. For seafood lovers, a golden ale can link up superbly, the fresh taste of light hops helping to complement the herbs in the dish. It can be a fascinating journey.

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W I N E

The Perfect Match

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ANDY NEWMAN BREAKS HIS OWN MANTRA IN SUGGESTING SOME RULES FOR FOOD AND WINE PAIRING

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THREE WINES ANDY HAS ENJOYED tHIS MONtH: Château Lamothe-Bergeron Haut-Médoc WHEN YOU WRITE about food and wine, are generally narrow in their scope: the 2012 (East of England Co-op, £13.99) as I do, you often find yourself with a local cuisine and the wine have grown up Unusually for the Médoc, Merlot is the restaurant wine list in your hands, and together, and are often perfectly matched. majority grape in this wine, with just 45% your fellow diners looking expectantly This is especially true in Italy, but it’s a Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a big, at you, waiting for you to pick one wine good rule of thumb for all dishes with a complex wine with notes of chocolate and which will perfectly match each of the strong regional connection. even coffee grounds alongside the expected (usually very different) dishes which 5. Match fruit with fruit fruit aromas. That complexity is there on the they have just ordered.

If your food has fruit in it – whether palate, with bramble fruits.

Abrogating responsibility for the wine savoury or sweet – then pick a wine choice is more common than you might which will be equally fruity. So duck Dourthe La Grande Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc2017 (Waitrose, £9.49, at time of imagine; I think people live in fear of cooked with cherries will go splendidly writing on offer at £6.99) choosing a wine which doesn’t work with with a Pinot Noir or a Tempranillo, both Despite coming from Bordeaux, the nose their food, or, more importantly, being grapes with cherry notes. gives pineapple and grapefruit aromas, while seen to have made the ‘wrong’ choice.

6. Salt and fat both need acidity on the palate there is good acidity, citrus This is a real shame, because, if I have Salt is a flavour which can overwhelm flavours and some Old World minerality. learnt anything in the many years since the fruit in a wine, so a good dose of Fresh and elegant, a good, versatile I started taking notice of what was in my acidity is vital – think Muscadet with Sauvignon Blanc. glass, it is this: there are very few wrong shellfish, Champagne with smoked answers in wine. If it works for you, then salmon or Riesling with many Asian De Luze Pauillac 2013 (Sainsbury’s, £20) it’s correct. dishes. Likewise, acidity is a good foil for The result of a partnership between Maison De Luze and the fifth growth Château CroizetThat stance does make writing fatty foods, cutting through the mouthBages, this is classic claret, with wonderfully a column all about food and wine filling fattiness and providing a welcome melded aromas of cassis and cedar wood, matching rather difficult, though, dose of freshness. and a balanced palate with decent tannins because I suspect Feast Norfolk readers 7. Dessert wines need to be sweeter (this is a food wine) and a very long finish. will be looking for rather more than than the dessert simply ‘pick what you happen to like’. So, Sweet wine can taste bland if the food at the risk of contradicting my ‘no wrong answers’ mantra, eaten with it is even sweeter, so make sure you pick a wine here are the 10 rules which I personally set about creating which is a degree or two sweeter than the pudding you are that perfect wine and food combination. eating. This is why rich chocolate desserts are so difficult to 1. It’s all about the ‘volume’ of flavour pair, needing the intense sweetness of a Maury, for example.

You don’t want the wine to overwhelm the food or vice-versa, 8. Pairing wine with multiple dishes so think about how strongly flavoured the dish is, and pick If you are in a restaurant situation, it’s highly unlikely you are a wine with a similar intensity. You wouldn’t accompany a all going to be eating the same dishes anyway, so unless you delicate harp soloist with a booming brass band, and neither are going to individually pair everyone’s food, you’ll need a should the wine you pick drown out the flavours of the dish. versatile wine which goes with lots of things. Good examples 2. Think about the whole dish are Albariño from northwest Spain, Provencal rosé or any Too often we just look at the main ingredient when matching reasonably light, fruity red. wine with food, but we ought really to consider the whole 9. For fine wines, the food comes second dish. For instance, a delicate blanquette of chicken will For your very best wines, build your menu around the wine, require a very different wine to a garlicky chicken Kiev or a rather than the other way round. It’s a criminal waste of a chicken Madras. This is particularly the case with fish dishes. wonderful wine to pair it with unsuitable or inferior food.

3. Try matching the sauce 10. Don’t be afraid to ask for advice Often the sauce will give you a big clue to what wine to In a decent restaurant, especially an independent one, the choose, especially if that sauce is itself wine-based. Dishes serving staff will have tasted all the dishes and will know like trout in Riesling or Coq au Vin cooked in Burgundy give their wine list inside out. The restaurateur will want you you all the clues you need. to have the best experience, so don’t hold back from asking 4. Think regionally for help. It’s a myth that restaurants see this as a chance There is a reason that wine lists in areas which have both to upsell or off-load old stock - most have a longer-term pronounced regional cuisines and are wine producing areas view than that.

Home of award winning wine www.eastofengland.coop/store-finder

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OUR WINE EXPERT STEVE HEARNDEN HERALDS A NEW SEASON BY TAKING THE PLUNGE AND IMPORTING SOME WINE FROM SPAIN

F O O D

&

Hola!

W I N E

NOW THE SCHOOL HOLIDAYS are almost over, our thoughts will naturally turn to shorter days and longer nights! This could be depressing but we go through this every year and so we should be used to it. For us foodies and winos, September brings a totally different palette of goodies. Pheasant is now in abundance and the fruit season is well under way. Grape picking has also started in some areas of Europe. Seeing the fermenting grape juice brings new expectations for the years to come of happy drinking! And so what to eat and drink?

Earlier in the year I went a bit mad and imported some wine from Spain. I had not tasted it nor had I visited but a good idea at the time, I thought.

The red is from the DO Madrid - not for me a Rioja which everyone knows. THE SANZ LA CAPITAL JOVEN 2016 is a deep cherry red, with slight violet edges. For this region it’s a very young wine but the aromas of plum, black cherries and vanilla are sublime and to taste? Well, it’s quite superb. Let it breathe a while and you will get the full blast of the Tempranillo grape. It’s fruity and long, with balanced tannins bringing the wine together in a full mouthful. The supporting spice is to be enjoyed. Beef and strong meats are the perfect accompaniments, or else a good strong cheese would do nicely, too! At £9.30 a bottle, this is the bargain of the month, and you can keep it, in the correct conditions, for a couple of years.

Staying in Spain, the white wine is the EL LOCO DE FINCA LA COLINA 2017 - rather a mouthful in many ways!

DO Rueda is a wine area north west of Madrid which

P A I R I N G

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is well known for its excellent white wines This wine is no exception: a superb Verdejo wine. Made from 97 per cent Verdejo with 3 per cent Sauvignon Blanc, due to its youth the wine has a slight green edge to it. The bouquet is of seeded tropical fruit with a hint of apple - quite intense. A long aftertaste is preceded by a well balanced wine, and the acidity is at the perfect level.

There’s a slight hint of aniseed on the aftertaste. At 13 per cent this is quite a strong wine so it would be best with some solid food - I mean halibut rather than sole.

I opened a bottle and forgot it for a couple of weeks, but, being in the fridge, it was perfect all that time later. So you can drink a glass a day, if you must! At £13.35, this is an excellent quality wine. Why not try a bottle of each (6) at a discounted price of £62.00 plus P&P?

TASTEBUDS WINES, Norwich Road, Strumpshaw, opens by appointment. Visit www.tastebudswines.co.uk

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Cruise -

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IN THE FOOTSTEPS

OF THE VIKINGS SARAH HARDY TAKES A FIVE-NIGHT CRUISE TO THE SCOTTISH ISLES AND NORWAY TO EXPLORE WATERY LANDSCAPES IN ENDLESS SUMMER DAYLIGHT

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BERGEN, NORWAY

S

COTLAND AND NORWAY make for fascinating travel and, as both are defined by their relationship to water, it seemed appropriate to visit them by ship.

Fred Olsen Cruise Lines is a lovely company to travel with. For a start, we can claim it as our own as the headquarters are in Ipswich and there’s a branch in Jarrold’s in Norwich!

Nicknamed the friendly cruise line, it is easy to see why. Smiling faces greet you at every turn and there is a relaxed atmosphere, with guests appearing to chill out the minute they step onboard.

Cruise

OLD MAN OF HOY

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There’s no charging at the buffet, over ordering at the bar or squabbling over the sunbeds - rather it is all very civilised and thank the Lord for that!

We were sailing on the Balmoral, the largest of four ships in the fleet, and, to me, it seems to be a perfect size.

With 11 decks and more than 700 cabins, there is plenty of room and facilities without it being a floating gin palace, with climbing walls, water slides and the rest!

Rather, you can find several bars, a theatre, two swimming pools, plenty of sunbathing space, outdoor hot tubs (ok, my favourite), a library, a spa, shops, and a handful of restaurants, including the upmarket Grill.

We were based in a Superior Suite on deck nine, which boasted a double bed, a large seating area, a big flat screen telly, a large ensuite, with a walk-in shower and, best of all, a decently sized balcony where you could just stare out to sea and contemplate life.

Our trip was a fascinating one - short but packed with history and outstanding scenery. We sailed from Rosyth, the port for Edinburgh, where many guests had already had an enjoyable day or two exploring the Scottish capital, topping up their heritage levels!

Over five days, we were visiting Orkney and Shetland, before heading to Bergen in Norway, and then home.

These two countries have a shared heritage and landscape, with the sea omnipresent. Fishing is a key industry, the climate is challenging, the beaches are breathtaking, and both have a rich, inter-linked history and that’s before you mention the Vikings!

Orkney and Shetland are windswept, watery places.

Orkney, taking in 70 islands and with barely a tree to its name thanks to those winter blasts, has a Neolithic ancestry, and is packed with stone circles and tombs. It is a mystical, spiritual place and is often voted Britain’s most romantic spot so make of that what you like - it could well be those very long winter nights!

PAINTERS tHROUGH tHE DECADES HAVE BEEN by the light ON THESE ISLANDS AND tHEIR RUGGED TERRAIN AND WEAtHER

TRANSFIXED

BALMORAL IN ROSYTH

STROMNESS, ORKNEY

Shetland, which comprises more than 100 islands, is nearer to Scandinavia than Britain, and has just as many archaeological finds and ruins to explore, from strange rock formations to ancient homesteads. We took to the water, to investigate the now deserted Mousa island, where a well preserved Iron Age broch, a circular stone fortification, still stands guard.

Both are excellent destinations for nature lovers; we saw seals and porpoises plus numerous sea birds such as puffins, gannets, guillemots and Arctic terns.

And each has a little capital: Kirkwall on Orkney and Lerwick on Shetland. Both command strong defensive positions with those vital harbours and have plenty of bars where live music features strongly.

For shopping, you’re looking at great knitwear, whisky, jewellery and artwork - painters through the decades have been transfixed by the light on these islands and their rugged terrain and weather!

Kirkwall has an impressive 12th century sandstone cathedral, St Magnus, while Lerwick is perhaps more foodie, with artisan producers, including brewers, chocolatiers and gin makers.

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Bergen, Norway’s second city, is a more sophisticated destination, with more experience in tourism. It was busy when we visited this summer, and we enjoyed its hustle and bustle. We took a 100-year-old funicular to the top of one of the seven mountains that surround the city, and enjoyed the extensive views. And we also spent time in Bryggen, the Hanseatic Wharf, which dates from the 12th century, where colourful wooden houses are now shops, cafes and bars.

The daily fish market is at the centre of everything and links both past and present. Now there are as many eateries as stalls and you can tuck into salmon, calamari and just about everything in-between.

Food is a big part of cruising, and onboard there’s a real emphasis on top quality, locally sourced ingredients - we stocked up like mad with fish in Bergen!

Dinners are lavish five-course affairs, with silver service, and a solid wine list, too. There are three main restaurants, all with enormous windows, giving views out to sea, while Palms forms the fourth restaurant choice, and is a self service affair, with longer opening hours. We tended to pop here for breakfast and the odd

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Feast Magazine Feature Strap2.indd A Travel SIMILAR CRUISE with 2Fred Olsen Cruise Lines in 2019 will be an ‘Isles of Scotland in Five Nights’ cruise on board Balmoral17/07/2017 (L1917), 13:48:17

departing from Rosyth on August 1 2019. Ports of call include: cruising by The Needle; cruising by Old Man of Hoy; calling at Kirkwall for an overnight stay, and on to Lerwick, before returning to Rosyth on August 6 2019. Prices start from £649 per person, based on an interior twin-bedded room, subject to availability and includes all food and entertainment on board, and port taxes.

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lunch, if we’d been out and about sight seeing.

There are two further restaurants, The Poolside and The Grill, which incur slight additional charges and thus offer more ambitious dishes. My sea bream at The Grill was excellent as was my scallop starter and a very decadent chocolate ‘seven ways’ dessert!

Afternoon tea is a firm favourite when cruising and the Balmoral has a deluxe version (at a very reasonable £8.95). Here you can tuck into dainty sarnies, scones and cakes aplenty. Add in a glass of champers for a real treat.

But my favourite meal was a seafood gala one lunchtime, complete with ice sculptures, salads, a dizzying amount of fruits of the sea, including lobster, crab and langoustines. And, if that wasn’t enough, a chocolate fountain for pud. Enough said! It was great fun and felt thoroughly decadent which is just how a cruise should feel!

As you can tell, I enjoyed my brief trip on the Balmoral. It is a well run vessel, very, very clean, has good entertainment, a great gin menu, terrific seafood and I even got to shake the hand of the very charming Captain Victor Stoica from Romania.

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C O M P E T I T I O N

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CHANCE TO WIN THIS MONTH WE HAVE TEAMED UP WITH THE BEECHWOOD HOTEL IN NORTH WALSHAM TO OFFER ONE LUCKY WINNER THE CHANCE TO WIN A BREAK FOR TWO NOW WHO DOESN’T LOVE A COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL? The Beechwood Hotel in North Walsham ticks all the right boxes for a luxurious break. For a start, the house is situated in a quiet part of North Walsham so there’s easy access to both the town and the gorgeous surrounding coastline and countryside. And the hotel is set in its own lovely gardens so there’s plenty of outdoor space to enjoy.

The house was built in 1800 and its decor stays true to its noble past, with impressive fireplaces, big windows, and high ceilings. Current owners Hugh and Emma Asher are keen to promote a house party feel, and have created a real home from home atmosphere.

Inside are 18 bedrooms, including ones with four posters, and many have glorious slipper baths.

HOW TO ENTER

CHANCE TO

ing question

WIN

your name, address Send your answer, plus number to competitions@ and a daytime telephone .uk. You can also enter by feastnorfolkmagazine.co page petition on our Facebook liking and sharing the com

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Ts&Cs: dinner for two. stay with breakfast and The prize is an overnight Christmas, 9.

201 31 rch Ma il unt 1 2018 It is valid from November are all are s day holi nights and bank New Year’s Eve, Saturday excluded. editor’s petition rules apply and the Normal Feast Norfolk com d 18 and age ple peo to n ope is petition decision is final. The com winner a en wh 8 September 30, 201 above. The closing date is . will be selected at random

ww w. be ech wo od -ho tel

Which whodunnit sitor writer was a regular vi el? to the Beechwood Hot

VISI T

Simply answer the follow

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Action centres around the Art Deco bar, with its gin menu, which is the perfect spot for a pre dinner drink and afternoon tea is also served here, too. The restaurant, under the guidance of head chef Steven Norgate, serves seasonal food, sourced locally. Dinners are glamorous affairs, with silver service, white linen tablecloths and the restaurants holds two AA Rosettes. Look out for local producers such as Swannington Farm to Fork, Mrs Temple Cheeses and Ollands Farm Foods.

The wine list is Hugh’s area of expertise, and features many suggestions from his native South Africa.

Little touches are everywhere, from fresh flowers to a pianist who plays in the restaurant on Saturday evenings.

And, interestingly, the queen of crime writing Agatha Christie was a regular visitor to the house from the 1930s to the 1960s. The writer was great friends with the two owners, doctors who she met on her travels, and is said to have written in the summer house in the garden.

Retreat East

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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www.suffolk.farm.co.uk

SARAH HARDY FINDS OUT HOW TO BUY YOUR OWN RETREAT IN DEEPEST SUFFOLK IN A NEW FARM SHARE CONCEPT

VISIT

ditch the hassle

Imagine owning your own luxurious retreat... ...down a glorious country track in the heart of Suffolk farmland where all you’ll hear is the sound of local wildlife.

Add in luxurious furnishings, a spa, an outdoor hot tub, a bar and in-barn dining facilities and, well, the place really starts to live up to its name: Retreat East.

Yet what exactly is Retreat East? In essence it is an easy concept to understand - it is a collection of new and renovated barns, nine in total, set on 35 acres of farmland, about seven miles north of Ipswich.

But, and this is where it becomes more complicated, you can own one of them, via a new twist in second home ownership. Rather than selling off the barns to individual owners and having them empty for a lot of the year, Retreat East operates more like a members’ club, with 500 debenture memberships - or farm shares - to sell.

For a one-off payment of £35,950, plus annual fees of £1423, members have unlimited day usage of the resort’s facilities as well as 15 guaranteed overnight stays in a choice of one, two and three-bedroom barns.

A smaller, studio barn membership costs £18,950, with annual fees of £1323. Up to seven nights of extra accommodation are available to buy and those who want more than 22 nights per year can buy several membership shares.

Owners can let the Retreat staff know in advance if they have any special requirements. Staff can stock the fridge, organise private parties here, have meals made ready to heat and eat, and generally take all the angst out of getting away for a few days. That way guests, or members, arrive and can unwind straight away.

My daughter and I stayed in The Piggery, a one-bedroom barn in the former piggery. No surprises there. But it was decorated with real flair. There’s a mixture of wooden and brick flooring, plenty of exposed beams and rafters and a very pretty woodburner.

Throughout is a cool colour scheme, all very chalky and relaxing, and glorious linen curtains and quirky touches - I spotted a tubby little pig keeping his eye on us!

There’s an open plan living room and kitchen, complete with a Smeg fridge and Miele cooker, plus a separate shower room, and then an enormous master bedroom, with adjoining bathroom with a free standing bath, walk in shower and more. There are the obligatory fluffy robes and towels provided and I loved the Aesop smellies - I will be tracking them down.

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We also made good use of the in-house entertainment system, with Netflix and all your regular favourites available on a big flat screen TV. The double height, oak framed Great Barn is a communal space, with a large seating area, a billiards table, a bar, a gym and the spa where there is a steam room, a sauna and two treatment rooms. We sampled the treatments on offer: I tried a Swedish massage in a bid to sort out the knots in my shoulders while my daughter had a facial in a bid to sort out her teenage complexion!

We thoroughly enjoyed sitting in the courtyard at the Great Barn, sinking into the huge sofas with simple abandon, leaning back and breathing in the heady lavender scents. It is a lovely spot and it was here that the true sense of retreating from life’s stresses and strains came to the fore.

Fresh, seasonal food is central to all that they do at the Retreat. You can select meals from the In Barn menu and cook them yourself or you can obviously just shop for yourself. The In Barn dining is a lovely idea; you just pick what you fancy from the menu and it arrives, oven ready.

You can also order in bacon, eggs, the freshest milk, great breads, fruits and more - which are all provided by local farm shops - and it shows. Our strawberries were ultra delicious.

Dogs are welcome in all properties and make sure you seek out the doggy spa, where they can clean up after a walk in all that lovely farmland. And children, aged 14 and over, are welcome in school holidays.

GIVE IT A GO...

be • To see if you like the idea, ‘taster’ stays can es faciliti the all out try can you where ised organ elf. yours available before committing

pled m a s e W ents m t a e r the t " on offer 93

Juicy Fruits Apricot

‘Flavorcot’ (syn. Bayoto’)

ORIGINS ARE DISPUTED, but most agree that apricots were first grown in Armenia, then brought to Rome by Alexander the Great and finally spread across Europe by missionaries. In the Himalayas, long life and strong health is attributed to using apricots as a staple food in diets.

Here in the UK, we often shy away from growing them due to our winter weather conditions but Flavorcot is a Canadian cultivar and is known for its reliability and frost tolerance. The fruits are really juicy and ready to be harvested in late summer.

ELLEN MARY is a presenter, journalist and garden designer. You can contact her on social media or at www.ellenmarygardening.co.uk

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ELLEN MARY

Autumn Fruits

Ellen Mary reckons that you just can’t get better than apricots for a spot of fresh, juicy sweetness

HOMEGROWN fruit and vegetables are known to taste delicious but there really is no fruit better than the apricot for a burst of incredible fresh fruitiness from the garden.

There are many varieties available now so there’s no need to be restricted by space or be concerned about the British weather.

Apricots are full of vitamins A and C along with dietary fibre, copper and potassium.

They also contain a number of potent antioxidants, so there’s all round goodness in every bite straight off the tree.

How to grow

SOW Plant over winter and water frequently while they are establishing, especially during their first spring and summer. Give them a good mulch of well rotted manure when planting and during spring. Apricots can be fan trained and look fantastic against a wall. There are slightly different methods according to the type of apricot but they're generally very easy to do.

CARE In times of particular drought all apricot trees may need watering, especially as the fruits are forming and swelling. If frost is expected, when the tree is blossoming, protect the flowers with a layer of horticultural fleece overnight but not to touch the flowers. It’s worth thinning out the fruits to about 10cm when they are about the size of a 20p piece to allow room for the best fruits. Remove any misshapen apricots, then, if up against a wall, those that are facing against the brick.

HARVEST Summertime into early September is a great time to harvest, depending on your variety, when the fruits are soft and can easily be picked from the tree. They bruise easily so be gentle when picking and transporting.

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RECIPE WITH ELLEN MARY

POACHED APRICOTS WITH VANILLA ICE CREAM AND CHOCOLATE Enjoyin

SERVES TW O

g a fresh apricot picked straight from the tree cannot be bettered but, as a tasty sweet dessert , poached apricots are so easy and a lovely late summer treat with a touch of chocolate on top.

INGREDIENTS 300ml of water 100g of granulated sugar ½ a lemon 1 vanilla pod 300g of apricots, halved and stoned Vanilla ice cream (one or two scoops each, you choose) Dark chocolate to grate METHOD 1. Put the sugar into a pan (big enough to put the apricots in a single layer) with 300ml of water along with the juice of half a lemon and seeds from the vanilla pod. Heat gently until all of the sugar has dissolved 2. Add in the apricots and poach for approximately 10 minutes until soft - this will depend on the ripeness of the apricots and can be anywhere between 3 to 15 minutes so keep an eye on them 3. Take off the heat and leave to cool before transferring to a dessert bowl.

4. Spoon into your chosen dessert bowl, preferably glass or clear so you can see the gorgeous colour. Add a dollop of vanilla ice cream and a sprinkle of grated chocolate on top

PLENTY IN

STORE

• KEEP UP tO DATE WItH RACHEL’S ALLOtMENt ON tWITTER @TREAtLIKEDIRt

Rachel Birtwhistle’s second autumn on the allotment throws up a familiar question left unsolved from last year – how best to store a plot full of crops 92

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EPTEMBER IS THE first month in autumn and it always feels like summer’s swan song. It’s still warm, the weather is good and there are plenty of crops left to pick, but what to do with them once they are harvested - aside from scoff them, of course.

Last autumn I experimented and stored a few potatoes and apples in my shed at home. It didn’t end well. ‘Something has died in our shed,’ my husband exclaimed on inhaling an obnoxious smell. Having first established the presence of both ageing cats, I bravely opened the door. My potatoes were the victims, brutally slain by the damp and left festering in the unfortunate ‘body bags’ I had carefully packed them in. This time round I am determined to do better.

My allotment friends have been educating me on the art of avoiding ‘in-store rot’. If I can prepare the fruit and veg properly I should be able to keep some staples from the plot for several months over autumn and winter.

As with everything, allotment related preparation is key.

‘Remember, one bad apple spoils the barrel,’ says a passing allotment neighbour as I am baking my potatoes in the sunshine to dry them out. I’m puzzled. ‘These are potatoes,’ I shout, assuming their eyesight is not what it once was. ‘Same difference’, they say, shaking their head and wandering off.

They are, of course, right. If it’s a technical explanation you’re after rather than an ancient proverb then ethylene

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gas - a naturally occurring gas that causes fruit to ripen - is to blame. Riper fruit emits more ethylene than unripe fruits, creating an over-concentration of the gas and signalling all the fruit around it to over-ripen as well.

But back to the potatoes. Once mine have dried out for a couple of hours in the sunshine, and all the loose soil has been rubbed off, I’ll store them in a cool dry place in a hessian sack. The same rule applies to spuds as to apples. One bad potato can indeed spoil the rest of the bag so damaged potatoes should be kept separate from storing potatoes because they are more likely to rot and infect the rest. Don’t compost them, just put them to one side to be eaten first.

Apples need good ventilation when storing so if you have slatted crates or boxes these are ideal. Separate the fruit so it’s not touching, or wrap each one in paper to prevent contact, and these should store well in a cellar, shed or garage over the autumn and into winter.

Onions need to be dry for two to three weeks before these can be stored. Once they are really dry they can be placed in netted bags, slatted trays or, like my nan used to do, in an old pair of tights, and put away to store.

This autumn I’m going to concentrate a bit more on storing because, let’s be honest, if your freezer is anything like mine, it’s probably full of UFOs - Unidentifiable Food Objects. I’ll be doing less stewing, roasting and blanching and more drying, packing and storing to prolong the life of my allotment produce.

Proudly Norfolk -

C O L U M N

VISIT

www.oldhallfarm.co.uk

FARM LIFE Rebecca Mayhew tells us about her South Norfolk farm where Jersey cows are important members of the family

Is it a family firm? Yes! My husband, Stuart, is the third generation in his family to farm in Woodton, and our children are already involved, albeit on a small scale, at seven and nine.

Where are you based? We are located on the main B1332 Norwich to Bungay road just south of Brooke. Just follow the signs for Raw Milk.

How did you get started?

Stuart has always farmed and I’m a chartered surveyor by trade, but have

Where can we buy your products?

Our produce is available at our self service farm shop seven days a week, 365 days a year, and we’re open from 7am until 9pm. We also attend Beccles Farmers’ Market, Wyken Vineyard Farmers’ Market and other events such as Porkstock. If you can’t get to us, we do sell online too and offer a next day delivery service.

Any future plans? Gosh yes! Since starting our dairy, the production of yoghurt, cheese and gelato have very much been on the agenda and we hope to expand into these areas later in 2018.

We will, in time, have our own beef and lamb, and have just achieved planning consent for a farm shop extension (with butchery and delicatessen) and a 45 seat café. And we’ve just planted a vineyard too!

REBECCA MAYHEW

Who are you and what do you do?

Old Hall Farm is a small dairy and self service farm shop. We specialise in raw Jersey milk, cream, butter, milkshakes and milk fed pork, and keep our cows with their calves ‘at foot’.

milk from the butter making process is fed to our pigs - the pork is then in turn sold out of our shop.

always loved the outdoor lifestyle that farming allows. We fell in love with Jersey cows in 2016 whilst visiting a friend’s farm in Scotland and whilst we originally bought a Jersey to fulfil the family requirements for milk (I’ve always wanted a house cow), we soon found that there was a huge demand for the milk and thus the idea for a farm shop was born! We have learned a lot since our first cow arrived, and have gone from milking one cow to milking 17 in 18 months.

Tell us about what you produce?

We sell milk, cream and butter from our gorgeous Jersey cows. All of these products are unpasteurised and unhomogenised and therefore give significant health benefits as well as tasting delicious. Any waste skimmed

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How green is your company? We try and take a green approach to all that we do. Where we have to use plastics, they are all either recycled or recyclable.

For the milk, we have glass bottles available daily, and for the meat our trays are compostable at home, or go in your recycling bin. When we extend to create a butchery and deli counter we hope not to have to use any plastic at all. For postal orders, we use recyclable cardboard boxes and recycled wool liners - no polystyrene to be found!

How has Norfolk Food and Drink been able to help you? The Proudly Norfolk family welcomed us into its arms last year and the wealth of knowledge, contacts and friendship has been invaluable. It’s a very exciting time to be involved in the local food movement - consumers are becoming better educated and more conscious of where their food comes from and how it is produced.

This column is supported

by Norfolk Food & Drink and highlights its Proudly Norfolk members. For more details, visit www.norfolkfoodanddrink.com

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*At the end of the agreement there are three options: i) own the vehicle: pay the optional final payment; ii) return the vehicle: subject to fair wear and tear, charges may apply; or iii) replace: part exchange the vehicle. ^Available on Solutions Personal Contract Plan. 18s and over. Subject to availability. Finance subject to status. Terms and conditions apply. Offer available when ordered by 31st August 2018. Offers are not available in conjunction with any other offer and may be varied or withdrawn at any time. Accurate at time of publication [07/2018]. Freepost Volkswagen Financial Services. We can introduce you to a limited number of lenders to assist with your purchase, who may pay us for introducing you to them. Fuel consumption and CO2 emissions figures are obtained under standardised EU test conditions (or, in cases of vehicles with WLTP type approval, are the NEDC figures provided pursuant to Government guidance until further notice). These figures facilitate direct comparison between different models from different manufacturers, but may not represent the actual fuel consumption achieved in ‘real world’ driving conditions. More information is available at www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/wltp. Choice of wheels and other options may affect fuel consumption and

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