Feast Norfolk Magazine May16 Issue 05

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FROM BRECKLAND

N O T S R O M M O FR

NEW BUSINESS IN OLD FASHIONED PUDDINGS MEET CHRIS BARNARD: THE GODFATHER OF THE POSH CRISPS REVOLUTION INTRODUCING OUR NEW ADNAMS WINE EXPERT

To explore Norfolk properly, you’ll need somewhere to stay.

01263 715779 holidays@norfolkcottages.co.uk norfolkcottages.co.uk Passionate sponsors of Norfolk Food and Drink We are proud of our hand-selected and fully graded portfolio, and would love to speak with you if you have a unique and beautiful holiday cottage.

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WELCOME TO OUR MAY ISSUE which is, as always, packed with all you need to know about the region’s thriving foodie scene. It is the start of my favourite time of year for food as asparagus is in abundance, crab comes into its own and all those summer fruits start to ripen.

It's a busy time of year for events, seeing the annual crab and lobster festival attract thousands to Cromer and Sheringham, whilst Beccles Food Festival is on my 'must go' list too!

The City of Ale Trail makes Norwich buzz each May while the Norfolk and Norwich Arts Festival has a breakfast club each morning - food gets everywhere, doesn't it?!

I have to admit to a vested interest in one of our main features - dog friendly pubs and cafes, with hints about

walks, too. Since acquiring young Bella (now aged almost 18 months old and pictured on our contents spread), my family has discovered a whole different culture and hopefully got a little bit fitter, too. Norfolk is a great place to own a dog, with so many welcoming places for them, and their owners, to enjoy a spot of R&R after a hike!

Look out for all our usual favourites such as our chef of the month spot which features Nigel Raffles from The Library Restaurant in Norwich and a big Feast welcome to Bonnie Arnold, from the Norwich branch of Adnams, who joins us as another new wine writer.

Add in a spotlight on a new deli in Sheringham, a visit to a Breckland farm for ice cream, and a few ultra healthy recipes from the Hemsley sisters who really are rather gorgeous and taking the world by storm, and you’ve got your usual busy magazine.

Finally we need to say many congratulations to Karl Clare from Norwich who won our Woodforde’s competition (featured in our March issue). He is in for a real treat as I know the good folk at the brewery always look after you very well - and the beer is pretty good, too!

Be sure to enter this month's two super competitions as someone has to win!

Do keep in touch, we love to hear from you and remember to like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter and Instagram.

Happy reading!

Sarah Hardy SARAH HARDY, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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EDITOR'S LETTER

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In this issue -

C O N T E N T S

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ISSN 2397-1673

9 772397 167017

05

FROM BRECKLAND

COVERY STOR

FROM MORSTON

NEW BUSINESS IN OLD FASHIONED PUDDINGS MEET CHRIS BARNARD: THE GODFATHER OF THE POSH CRISP REVOLUTION INTRODUCING OUR NEW ADNAMS WINE EXPERT

06 Harry Farrow, head chef at the Anchor Inn in Morston, serves up local crab, freshly caught by Willie Weston of Blakeney

03 Editor’s letter 40 What is coming up in our June issue 70 Take out a subscription to enjoy us first every month 84 A selection from our postbag plus some of our favourite tweets

WHAT’S ON

14 Discover the best food and drink events and activities in the region this month 16 Find out more about the Cromer and Sheringham Crab and Lobster Festival 18 Richard Bainbridge is just one of the chefs taking part in the second Beccles Food Festival this month 20 The news and gossip spread - essential reading!

FEATURES

24 Sarah Hardy reveals her favourite dog friendly cafes and pubs, and suggests a walkie, too!

REVIEWS

28 Danielle Howard travels to the Fat Duck in Bray for a very special eating experience with Heston Blumenthal

32 Emma Outten keeps going back to St Andrews Brew House in Norwich for lunch when Saturday comes 48 Enjoy the celebrity cook books new on the market this month

INTERVIEWS

42 Sarah Hardy talks to ‘clean food’ enthusiasts Melissa and Jasmine Hemsley who arrive in Norwich this month 50 Emma Outten talks to Chris Barnard, the godfather of the posh crisps revolution, as he retires from Kettle Chips 52 Sarah Hardy meets Simon Dann of Dann’s Ice Creams in Breckland in the first of a new series about farmers in our region 71 We profile wine writer Steve Hearnden from Strumpshaw who specialises in French and Romanian wines

REGULARS

35 Wake up and smell the coffee with the help of our gadgets and gizmos 56 Former teacher Kate Lyons is our artisan producer as she tells us about her new range of old fashioned English puddings 60 Shop front - Our shop of the month is the Town Deli in Sheringham

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28 66 Meet the Chef - Nigel Raffles of The Library Restaurant in Norwich tells us about his 25-year career 90 Will Chandler of East Coast Bars urges us to not just eat local but drink local in this month’s Last Bite column

RECIPES

38 Sara Matthews of Your Gluten Freedom is thinking al fresco food this month - with popcorn topping her list of tempting treats 44 Enjoy our selection of recipes from Good + Simple, the latest cook book from the Hemsley sisters 67 Nigel Raffles offers us slow cooked duck with asparagus 83 Ellen Mary treats us to artichoke, pancetta and cheese tart 89 Reader Paul Dearmer serves up a chicken and chorizo dish for all the family

DRINK

68 Bonnie Arnold of Adnams Norwich, our new wine expert, suggests some summer tipples to try as temperatures start to climb

COLUMNISTS

37 Sarah Ruffhead continues her foodie journey

around Norfolk 55 Justin Wright from Lovewell Blake discusses how leaving the EU could affect the region’s food and farming businesses 63 Charlotte Gurney says a good butchery is key to the success of her farm shop 65 Our in house baker Steven Winter has big news this month about a new Norwich shop

TRAVEL

72 Andy Newman travels to Venice where he is delighted by the beauty of the place and reckons the food is pretty special too 77 Georgia Watson celebrates her anniversary at a romantic Cambridge bolthole, The Varsity Hotel and Spa

09 THE TEAM

Sarah Hardy, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Emma Outten, Deputy Editor emma@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Scott Nicholson, Designer studio@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Rachael Young Account Manager advertising@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

CONTRIBUTORS

GROW YOUR OWN

Andy Newman, Steve Hearnden, Bonnie Arnold, Danielle Howard, Ellen Mary, Sara Matthews, Sarah Ruffhead, Charlotte Gurney, Steve Winter, Georgia Watson, Will Chandler, Justin Wright

COMPETITIONS

FEAST NORFOLK MAGAZINE is published

by Feast (Eastern) Limited - 21 Market Place, Dereham, Norfolk NR19 2AX

80 Ellen Mary tells us about the noble history of the globe artichoke and gives us a few tips about growing this lovely spring vegetable

58 Enjoy a trip to a Norfolk gastropub for dinner or an overnight stay - the choice is yours 64 Win a special day for your dad courtesy of Herbert Woods and Woodforde’s Brewery

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What's On

AFTERNOON TEA

Enjoy Afternoon Tea at The Races on Ladies Day at Fakenham Racecourse on May 22. The package is aimed at those ladies (and gents) who would like to be seated in a fully lined marquee, and the sandwiches, scones and assortment of cakes will be provided by catering partners, The Crown Inn at East Rudham. It's now returns only.

Visit www.fakenhamracecourse.co.uk

DON'T

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DIARY

MURDER MYSTERY

The UK’s oldest hotel, the Maids Head in Tombland, Norwich, is throwing a Murder Mystery Evening on May 13 (Friday 13th - yikes!) The evening includes a three course meal and entertainment, plus you could extend the party with an overnight stay, bed and breakfast. To book, call 01603 272007 or email events@maidsheadhotel.co.uk Visit www.maidsheadhotel.co.uk

D A T E S

May you never be short of a food and drink related event to go to in May, says Emma Outten!

1930s KITCHEN

How do you fancy cooking in the 1930s kitchen at Blickling Estate on May 2, 14 or 29? Join the cooks and, if you’re lucky, you may even get a morsel to try, whether they’re baking scones, pigeon pie, venison, gingerbread or a good old apple crumble.

Visit www.nationaltrust.org.uk

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PIE COURSE

GRAIN FESTIVAL

Ever fancied making your own pork pies or know someone who’d love to? Then Sarah Pettegree of Bray’s Cottage Pork Pies is holding a pork pie workshop on May 13 and 28 at the Macarons and More production kitchen in Norwich, otherwise known as Tim Kinnaird’s Cookery School. The Pork & Pastry event has been described before now as one of the UK’s best foodie courses.

Visit www.perfectpie.co.uk

The Grain Festival takes place at Geldeston Locks on May 28. A collaboration between Grain brewery and the pub in the Waveney Valley, this promises to be a weekend of music, beer tents, country food stalls, entertainment and awesome stuff along the way.

Visit www.geldestonlocks.co.uk

BOOK LAUNCH

Harry Cory Wright will be at the Jolly Sailors in Brancaster on May 1, to launch his new book, Marsh.

Do stop by either side of the tide to see his new photography book and have it signed if you so wish.

Visit www.jollysailorsbrancaster.co.uk

FINE DINING

Enjoy a fine dining dinner with guest speaker at the 15th century Swan at Lavenham Hotel & Spa on May 11.

Jane Gosling, manager at Lavenham Guildhall National Trust, will be presenting ‘Boom and Bust in Medieval Lavenham’ and the evening will include a three course meal.

Visit www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk

PICNIC

Archdeacon’s Charge and Picnic on May 2. The annual sponsored fun run or walk was founded by the Venerable John Ashe, Archdeacon of Lynn, to raise money for their church and the East Anglian Air Ambulance. Or, for a more relaxing day out bring-your-own picnic. There will also be refreshments, a BBQ, cake stalls, a live band in the Picnic Village area.

Visit www.dioceseofnorwich.org

WHISKY MAGIC

CLASSIC CARS

Bond, No. 28 Tombland, in Norwich, is hosting a Whisky Magic launch event on May 6. Be greeted with a complimentary Haig Club whisky and luxury Harrods chocolates, before interacting with one of the UK’s up and coming magicians, Magic Circle member Tyler Harrison. In-house mixologists will then demonstrate how to make cutting edge whisky cocktails.

Visit www.bondnorwich.co.uk

The Hoste in Burnham Market is hosting its annual Classic and Supercar car rally on May 19 and 20. If you have a classic car (pre1970s) or a wonderful supercar, then please register your interest.

Tickets include a celebratory dinner (the menu includes locally smoked salmon, horseradish hollandaise, Norfolk quail eggs, leaf salad, and capers) with complimentary pre-dinner champagne.

Visit www.thehoste.com

FESTIVAL CAFE

Each day during the Norfolk & Norwich Festival (May 14 to 28) Norwich Arts Centre will play host to Egg Festival Cafe - a pop up café offering an array of morning delights for public and performers alike. The hosts serving top quality breakfasts, in a spontaneous and chaotic environment, will be Simon Floyd and Amanda Coleman from The Common Lot. Visit www.nnfestival.org.uk or www.norwichartscentre.co.uk

DON'T FORGET

That the Norwich City of Ale takes place between May 26 and June 5 – a 10day city-wide celebration of pubs, breweries, and beer. Cheers to that!

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SANDWICH WEEK

British Sandwich Week, a week-long celebration of the greatest food to go and quite possibly the most iconic British culinary invention, runs from May 8 to 14. Visit www.sandwich.org.uk

SAUCY!

Suffolk’s Stokes Sauces have redeveloped their Real Ale Chutney and have just launched a new and improved product. They’ve not only increased the amounts of apple, apricot and onion in every jar but have also doubled the amount of traditionally, locally brewed real ale in each batch – double the joy! Visit www.stokessauces.co.uk

NEW ROOMS

The eight new stylish rooms at Andover House Hotel and Restaurant in Great Yarmouth are well underway and on track to be completed at the end of May. They will be sympathetic to the Victorian, five storey property and exclusively for adults. Each will have its own individual style, and be perfect for both holiday visitors and business guests. Visit www.andoverhouse.co.uk

NEWS

ROUND-UP Want to know about the latest launches and openings? Look no further, says Emma Outten BEST B&B?

So how did Janie Thompson and Gemma Layfield, director and housekeeper of boutique bed and breakfast No33 Hunstanton, fare on Channel Four’s afternoon reality show Four in a Bed? By now we should’ve found out if they won! On the show, visiting couples from other B&B establishments around the country enjoyed an evening meal at Thornham Deli, co-owned by Janie. Visit www.33hunstanton.co.uk

ORGANIC VEG

From The Earth Workers’ Co-operative, based in West Norfolk, have started selling their organic veg to the Umbel Organics veg box scheme and Back to the Garden. They are also planning to start their own Farmers' Market at Bircham Windmill - from June to September on the third Saturday of each month, so if you are a small producer less than 30 miles away from Bircham call 07804 885010. Visit www.fromtheearthworkerscoop.wordpress.com

FOOD CAMPAIGN

Throughout May shoppers are being urged to 'Make One Change' to the way they shop for food. In a bid to end supermarket domination, Anthony Davison, a Cambridgeshire farmer and founder of local food and drink website www.bigbarn.co.uk, says buying local could help preserve the UK food industry and ensure the survival of rural communities. Visit www. bigbarn.co.uk/make-one-change

News & Gossip DOG DAYS

Did you know that Norwich has become the first city to have a bar which has a beer for every day of the year? There will be 365 different craft beers, from local independent breweries and international craft microbreweries, served at the newly opened BrewDog Norwich. Visit www.brewdog.com

DELI DELIGHT

At the time of going to press, Norfolk Deli in Hunstanton were waiting to hear if they’d won the Olives et Al sponsored Delicatessen of the Year in the national Farm Shop & Deli Awards held at the NEC. Mark Kacary, who runs the deli with wife Rosie, says: ‘This is like the Oscars of the Deli & Farm Shop world so to be a finalist after only two years in business is phenomenal.’ Visit www.norfolk-deli.co.uk

SEASIDE SPICE

SOMETHING'S BREWING

Woodforde’s brewery has launched a completely new range of seasonal beers aimed at both mainstream and craft beer enthusiasts alike. The range, which includes a Red IPA and a Triple-hopped American IPA, will be available throughout 2016, starting with Reedlighter, a dry-hopped pale ale. The beers will be available in cask in pubs across the region as well as in 18 and 36 pint beer-boxes from the brewery shop. Visit www.woodfordes.co.uk

AFTERNOON TEA

Just opened at the White Lion Hotel in Aldeburgh Suffolk, is new restaurant Sea Spice, which will unite local produce with classic and contemporary Indian dishes.

The menu will offer an array of regional dishes, prepared using locally landed varieties, plus, in celebration of Suffolk’s flourishing craft-beer scene, there will also be a curated selection of locally brewed beers and ales. Visit www.seaspice.co.uk

Visitors to Norwich Cathedral can now enjoy an afternoon tea experience in the Refectory. Available throughout the week, from 2.30 to 4.30pm, all the team need is a day's notice to prepare everything.

Call 01603 218321 to book. Plus, they’re also going to be offering double loyalty card stamps between 10am and 12pm, for those who use the Refectory for mid-morning coffee catch-ups.

Visit www.cathedral.org.uk

PICTURE BY

PRODUCT LAUNCH

PAUL HURST

The team at Yare Valley Oils, who grow, harvest, press and bottle their own extra virgin cold pressed rapeseed oil on the 100-year-old family run farm beside the Norfolk Broads, have launched a brand new Garlic and Rosemary Oil this spring: the infusion will be perfect for drizzling, dipping, frying, roasting and marinating.

Visit www.yarevalleyoils.co.uk

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Don’t forget that the Gluten Freedom Expo takes place at The Forum in Norwich on May 8 (which also happens to be at the beginning of Coeliac Awareness Week). It will celebrate gluten free produce from around the county and showcase the very best that the ‘free-from’ food industry has to offer to the people of Norfolk and East Anglia

o c s e f r l a F R E E D O M

Sara Matthews runs Your Gluten Freedom, visit www.yourglutenfreedom.co.uk

Your Gluten Freedom -

R E C I P E S

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This month our ‘free from’ writer Sara Matthews gets popping and more for some early summer al fresco fun With summer almost here, and when the weather allows, we can enjoy some al fresco dining. Whether it’s back garden dining or a picnic on a day out, these three recipes are great - hot or cold. They can be created in advance and are very easy to make

POPCORN We love popcorn as it is so easy to make and there are so many flavour combinations to choose from, when you make it yourself. Just let your imagination run riot. From savoury spicy chilli, to yeast extract, salted caramel or heavenly chocolate. It is perfect for a film night, picnics or as a snack on a long car journey. I have given you a couple of flavour combinations to get you started INGREDIENTS 2tbsp of coconut oil; 110g of popcorn kernels Salted chocolate popcorn 4tbsp of melted coconut oil; 2tbsp of maple syrup; 3tbsp of raw cacao powder or cocoa powder; pinch of salt Yeast extract 2tsp of yeast extract, warmed - so easier to stir through popcorn. It’s a very strong flavour so a little goes a long way

METHOD In a large, heavy-bottomed pan melt the coconut oil over a medium heat. Once melted, remove from the heat and add the popcorn kernels. Give a quick shake to coat, add the lid and return to the heat. Keep the lid on until all goes quiet and the popcorn has finished popping. Remove the lid and pour into a bowl. Mix your coating together, pour over the popcorn and mix until evenly coated. Allow to cool a little to set. You can store it in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days but, to be honest, when we make ours it never gets to the fridge - it’s just too yummy to resist. With all the flavours above, tweak to suit your own tastes: if you like it hot and spicy add more chilli powder to the spicy popcorn, or use hot or maybe smoked paprika.

Spicy popcorn 2tbsp of melted coconut oil; ½ tsp of cinnamon; ½ tsp of paprika; ½ tsp of cumin; ¼ tsp of chilli powder

Serves Four

TURN OVER FOR MORE RECIPES!

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June -

L O O K I N G

A H E A D

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JAMIE PERRY GOES ON A GOURMET JOURNEY IN THAILAND …

WE MEET AN ARTISAN CHOCOLATIER …

THE ROYAL NORFOLK SHOW IS HERE - WE PREVIEW WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE FOODIE FRONT …

DON’T MISS OUR ESSENTIAL NEWS AND GOSSIP ROUND UP …

EMMA OUTTEN INTERVIEWS ARTHUR HOWELL, NORTH NORFOLK’S LEGENDARY BUTCHER …

DINING OUT AT THE LIFEBOAT IN THORNHAM …

OUR KITCHEN GARDENER ELLEN MARY TELLS US HOW TO GROW AND ENJOY BROAD BEANS

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Your Gluten Freedom -

R E C I P E S

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Serves Six

FLATBREAD I love these two recipes as there is no waste, even the aquafaba (brine from the can of chickpeas) is used INGREDIENTS 350g of gluten free self raising flour (I used Doves Farm); ½ tsp of gluten free baking powder; ¼ tsp of salt; ½ tsp of ground cumin; ½ tsp of chilli powder; 100 ml of aquafaba (the chick peas themselves will be used to make the houmous); 75ml of milk (I used almond milk, but any plant based milk will do if you can’t have dairy); 2tbsp of olive oil or rapeseed oil; 75ml of water

TANGY OLIVE HOUMOUS This traditionally Middle Eastern houmous has a twist with olives and Greek yogurt giving it a Mediterranean flavour. It works well as a sandwich filler or served with raw veg and flatbread as part of a meze meal

METHOD 1. Preheat a griddle pan, or use a frying pan until good and hot 2. In a bowl add the flour, baking powder, salt and spices and mix to combine. Useful tip: when using gluten free flour blends, as they are a mix of different flours, they can sometimes settle because some of the flours are heavier than others, so always give the flour a stir before using to get an even blend 3. In a jug, whisk together the chickpea brine with the water, milk and oil. Stir this into the flour mix with a knife until it forms a dough, you may need to pull together with your hands. This can be a sticky dough so don’t worry or add any more flour. Bring the dough together to form a ball and divide into 6 or 8 depending on the final size wanted. Lightly flour a work surface and roll each ball flat with a rolling pin or you can flatten with floured hands. If children are helping they seem to prefer this method!

4. Cook each flatbread one at a time for about 8 minutes until griddle marks appear. Repeat with other flatbread. You can keep them warm in the oven, covered with foil until you want to serve them; serve cold or reheat later by wrapping in foil and placing in the oven to warm through 5. These are great served with dips and salad, they also make fantastic bases for pizza. They also freeze very well so are great if you want to make a few batches for another day

Serves Six INGREDIENTS 1 x 410g can of chickpeas, drained (keep brine for flatbread recipe) and rinsed; 2 garlic cloves, crushed; 8tbsp of Greek yogurt (soya yogurt can be used to make it dairy free); juice and zest of 1/2 unwaxed lemon; 1tbsp of extra virgin olive oil; few sprigs of fresh oregano, chopped; 8 large pitted olives (green or black whichever you prefer, I used Kalamata olives); pinch of salt METHOD Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend until desired consistency - I like my houmous a little on the chunky side but blend as smooth as you like. Transfer to a bowl, garnish with chopped olives, lemon zest and a drizzle of olive oil. www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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WILL CHANDLER, WHO RUNS MOBILE BAR COMPANY EAST COAST BARS, URGES PEOPLE TO MOVE AWAY FROM THE MAINSTREAM AND RAISE A GLASS TO LOCALLY PRODUCED DRINK AT ALL TIMES! RUNNING A MOBILE BAR company and working in a hotel means that I meet people who have ventured to our beloved Norfolk from all over the country, and this gives me the perfect opportunity to share with them my love of our local drinks producers.

In Norfolk we are spoilt with the amount of local producers of food and drink. Over the last few years Norfolk based drinks companies have really upped their game whether it be coffee, cordials, wines or beers.

Covering events all over Norfolk, East Coast Bars is the perfect platform to showcase the best drinks, beer, spirit and cordial, which Norfolk has to offer. By giving customers the chance and the choice to personalise their bar, they are delighted to move away from mainstream drinks such as Becks Vier and Strongbow and are opting for Norfolk based options such as cider from Whin Hill in Wells, beers and lagers from The Norfolk Brewhouse or Grain Brewery - we can even offer local gluten free beers from St Peter’s Brewery (just outside of Norfolk).

Selecting these local beers along with local gins, vodkas and whiskies provides a great talking point at events and the branding and stories behind the products connects the drinkers to the people who make them.

It is not only at special events and functions that locally made produce can be enjoyed.

Serving local gins, such as Norfolk Gin and Black Shuck, on the bar at The Lawns in Holt encourages visitors to engage with their drinks,

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often asking who makes it, where it’s made or what the flavours are. Knowledgeable staff have become a vital part of the promotion of these incredible local products. I can’t tell you how many people we send down the road to our friends at Bakers and Larners Foodhall, or Adnams, to buy more of what they have experienced at our bar!

Drinkers, both old and young, are moving toward the local craft drink revolution and no matter what your tipple is, there is now probably something for you made just a stone’s throw from where you live. If you’ve not yet given any of these a try, forget buy one get one free at the supermarket; instead I suggest you head to your local pub, restaurant, wine bar or deli and see what they have to offer, ask the staff there those questions about who makes it, where it’s made, what the flavours are and start your local journey. I love to record my tastings on the Untapped app on my phone. This gives you the chance to rate and comment on beers and share them with your friends.

The list of local brewers is impressive in Norfolk and many of you will have your favourite tipple. I recommend giving the new beer on the bar a try. You may not have heard of the beer or even the brewery but the expertise and dedication behind the brewing of the beer will be second to none, the flavour combinations will be exciting and the opportunity should never be passed up. It may not be to your taste but you might be converted and find a new favourite!

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