Feast Norfolk Magazine November 17 Issue 21 by Feast Norfolk Magazine

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NEW YEAR’S EVE EVENTS AT CARROW ROAD

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‘Family Christmas Lunch’ with Father The lunch is three courses with a great carved roast meats and a present from stmas for all children.

k for your children’s names at the time of d these get presented on our matchday AT C ARROW ROAD WITH AGENT ORANGE as a rolling message throughout the lunch.

NEW YEAR ’S EVE

Fancy dress PARTY

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Fancy be hired prizes ge as 400 ening function rival will take stmas can get ws Bar & book and efs work ht. standards.

SUNDAY, DECEMBER 31 SUNDAY, DECEMBER 31

New Year’s Eve Ball £75 PER PERSON TOP per OF THE TERRACE £75 person 7.00PM

If you want something more traditional then you can start at ourmore ‘Newtraditional Year’s Evethen Ball’ with If you want2018 something Agent Orange! Arrive to glitz, glamour and a glass you can start 2018 at our ‘New Year’s Eve Ball’ of fizz before enjoying a magnificent five-course meal. withyour Agentluck Orange! Arrive to glitz, glamour Try on the Casino Tables or dance the and a Year glass in of with fizz before magnificent New Agentenjoying Orangeauntil the countdown five-course meal. the New Year in style with a glass arrives. Celebrate of fizz on this unforgettable occasion. Try your luck on the Casino Tables or dance

We are also a residential the New Year offering in with Agent Orange package until the for the New Year’s Eve Ball staying at the on-site countdown arrives. Celebrate the New Year Holiday in Inn. Based on two people sharing this is priced at an style with a glass of fizz on this unforgettable amazing £279 per couple! occasion.

re and discuss your requirements. TOP OFalso THE TERRACE | 7PM package for We are offering a residential uk the New Year’s Eve Ball staying at the on-site

SUNDAY, DECEMBER 31

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£15 per person See out 2017 in style at Carrow Road. See 2017 in stylebut at Carrow Road. Fancyout dress is optional encouraged – Fancy dress is optional but encouraged – with prizes with prizes on the night for the best outfits.

on the night for the best outfits.

For just £15 per person, including an arrival

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I c A o T N a o

W N I a

Editor's Letter

SARAH HARDY

ELCOME to our November issue where we start to talk about Christmas! Especially booze! Hurrah! Centre stage is our gift guide which should help you with ideas for friends and family members while our regular cookbook spread highlights some great new titles - and who doesn’t like a new cookbook (or two!)? Our What’s On guide lists many wonderful foodie fairs where you can stock up on artisan treats, and we also review two lovely places for festive dining - The Kings Arms at Fleggburgh, near Acle, and The Ship Hotel in Brancaster. We recommend where to buy your turkey, and our wine writer Steve Hearnden suggests what to drink with your Christmas lunch. And another local wine AT C ARROW ROAD WITH ORANGE merchant, RobAGENT Harrison, offers up his favourite festive wines, too, so you have plenty of suggestions on what to sip and slurp. We also visit the English Whisky Co. in Breckland to sample their new Norfolk range of whiskies, a trio of tipples,DECEMBER and try out The 31 Kitchen, their new restaurant SUNDAY, and coffee shop. But if the festive period is beginning to be a bit much, then read my holiday report about a fab-u-lous cruise to Spain and Portugal from Southampton. Bliss - and I got to meet enfant terrible, Marco Pierre White, who is a quite a pussy cat these days! Rick Stein, surely everyone’s favourite TV chef, has If you want something traditional then you some hot andmore spicy recipes from Mexico and California can start 2018 at our ‘New Year’s Eve Ball’ withbring a bit of (linking in with a new telly series) which much neededtosunshine into these darkadays! Agent Orange! Arrive glitz, glamour and glass Don’t miss our regular columnists, including kitchen of fizz before enjoying a magnificent five-course meal. gardener Ellen Mary who tells us all about parsnips Try your luck on the Casino Tables or dance the and suggests a quick and easy recipe which sounds New Year inlike with Agent Orange until the countdown a great addition to your Christmas lunch; and Sara arrives. Celebrate the New Year in style with glass Matthews, our free from writer; who hasathe ultimate of fizz on this unforgettable occasion. in comfort food - hotpot! One of my real favourites. Enjoy this busy time of year and happy reading!

New Year’s Eve Ball

£75 per person

We are also offering a residential package for the New Year’s Eve Ball staying at the on-site Holiday Inn. Based on two people sharing this is priced at an amazing £279 per couple!

HARDY, EDITOR TOP OF THESARAH TERRACE | 7PM sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

CONGRATULATIONS to Margaret from Spalding who won our September competition, a trip to the Ffolkes in Hillington, near King’s Lynn, and don’t forget to enter this month's competition, a stay in Brancaster Staithe FEASTNORFOLKMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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74 ABOUT US 03 Editor’s Letter 44 How to subscribe WHAT’S ON 14 Keep up-to-date with all the events and happenings in our region as we enter the festive period 18 Who’s doing what and where - and mostly, why - our news and gossip feature is always in the know! 73 Champagne tasting? Yes please. We attend a fizzy event at Rooftop Gardens in Norwich FEATURES 16 Meet Vivien Cawrse, the winner of our Porkstock recipe competition and read Joe Hinchliffe’s backstage report 38 Our Christmas gift guide has it all, from unusual voucher ideas to perfect presents, all with a foodie theme

COVER STORY

06 Whisky - from Norfolk? Surely some mistake! Find out more

EATING OUT 22 Emma Outten heads to The Ship in Brancaster for a fishy themed Sunday lunch 26 Andy Newman is full of praise for Mark Dixon’s cooking at the Kings Arms in Fleggburgh, near Acle

INTERVIEWS 32 Rob Harrison of CH Wine Merchants in North Norfolk recommends some alternative Christmas wines 34 Britain’s best known wine critic Oz Clarke arrives in Norwich this month for a city centre wine tasting date REGULARS 36 The students at City College Norwich have been elbow deep in Christmas pudding mixture this term! 46 Our chef Q&A puts the spotlight on Justin Kett, head chef at The Swan Hotel and Spa in Lavenham 54 Rick Stein travels to Mexico and California for big flavours in his new cookbook 58 Our regular round up of cookbooks has one from leading body coach, Joe Wicks 71 The gadget and gizmo page features elegant decanters this month 90 Our Proudly Norfolk column meets Lisa Wheeler of Norfolk Charcuterie RECIPES 13 Richard Bainbridge offers us an exclusive English Whisky Co. pudding - dark chocolate tart

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86 49 Justin Kett of The Swan Hotel and Spa in Lavenham shares his tasty venison recipe 50 Free from writer Sara Matthews has an autumnal hotpot and a killer cake on the menu 61 Damien Woollard of the Norfolk Mead Hotel in Coltishall gets us ready for the game season with a stunning partridge dish 77 Elaine Daykin serves up chicken with figs - one of her favourite dishes from southern Spain 87 Ellen Mary has a sweet roasted root vegetable dish to go with your Sunday roast DRINK 66 Great Yarmouth based brewery Lacons explains exactly what craft beer is all about 68 Andy Newman argues the case for continuing to put a cork in it 72 Steve Hearnden tells us the wines to drink with our Christmas lunch COLUMNISTS 30 Charlotte Gurney, of White House Farm, Norwich, is keen to get children to know more about fruit and veg 31 Andrew Jones, chef patron of Farmyard in www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Norwich, isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t one for throwing saucepans at staff! 82 Chris Solt of Lovewell Blake wants trade buyers to shop local TRAVEL 74 Elaine Daykin spent 10 years in Andalucia and here she gives us a flavour of the local cuisine 78 Sarah Hardy pushes the boat out and sails the Atlantic for a seven-night voyage from Southampton 83 In need of me time? The Fritton Arms, on the Somerleyton estate, is all about great food in peaceful surroundings

THE TEAM

Sarah Hardy, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Emma Outten, Deputy Editor emma@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Scott Nicholson, Designer studio@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Rachael Young Senior Account Manager | 07900 823731 rachael@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Hannah McKinney Senior Account Manager | 07917 122829 hannah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

GROW YOUR OWN 86 Kitchen gardener Ellen Mary celebrates that great winter vegetable, the parsnip, in her monthly column 88 Allotmenteer Rachel Birtwhistle has a somewhat reluctant tidy up on her plot this month

CONTRIBUTORS

COMPETITION 70 Win dinner, bed and breakfast for two at The White Horse in Brancaster Staithe - and enjoy those stunning coastal views

FEAST NORFOLK MAGAZINE is published by Feast (Eastern) Limited - 21 Market Place, Dereham, Norfolk NR19 2AX

Mel Cook, Andy Newman, Andrew Jones, Steve Hearnden, Chris Solt, Charlotte Gurney, Sara Matthews, Ellen Mary, Rachel Birtwhistle, Joe Hinchliffe, Elaine Daykin

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WHiSKY GALORE 06

S P O T L I G H T

THE ENGLISH WHISKY CO.

IN BRECKLAND CONTINUES TO EXPAND, WITH A Â£400,000 NEW RESTAURANT AND A RANGE OF NORFOLK WHISKIES. SARAH HARDY REPORTS

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NESTLING IN THE gentle countryside, in a surprisingly peaceful setting just off the A11, is St George’s Distillery at Roudham. We have all seen the signs for it and no doubt pondered, ‘I must call in there,’ but time and life take over. Well, hold off no more! What a great place! It has a mixture of everything. For a start there’s the distillery and tours are available every day, there are gorgeous grounds to wander in, a jampacked shop and and now a lovely eaterie, The Kitchen, with no less a person than leading Norfolk chef and all-round good chap Richard Bainbridge as ambassador. Centre stage is the single malt whisky itself, of course. You should realise that the family behind the business, the Nelstrops, are dynamic - after all, they came up with the idea of producing a whisky in Norfolk in the first place. Lord knows what the Scots made of it all! It was the brainchild of James Nelstrop who decided to investigate a subject close to his heart - whisky and its production! Production had ceased in England 100 years ago yet the best barley in the country is grown in Norfolk and Breckland water is superb. The family considered many options, undertook much research and in October 2005, a planning application for a £2m distillery was made, which gained approval in 2006.

PICTURES BY KEIRON TOVELL

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The rest, as they say is history, with James's son, Andrew, and his wife, Katy, now running the business and embarking on a new and exciting chapter. The distillery produces 2800 bottles a week and the company exports all over the world - even to Scotland. Andrew explains: ‘Over the years the range of products we have made has really put English whisky in the spotlight – and now it’s time to celebrate the fact they have all been made in Norfolk and put it firmly on the whisky map. ‘So our head distiller David Fitt created three whiskies that use more than just malted barley and, as they are a very different whisky to the single malts, it made perfect sense to launch them as The Norfolk brand.’ Like the whisky, the brand’s bottle labels are also a little different - they all feature a cat sporting a monocle and a

bowler hat. Andrew says: ‘The bowler hat was invented by Holkham Estate as a hard hat for its game keepers and was originally known as the Coke hat. ‘If you go to Lock & Co in St James’s Street in London today to buy a bowler, you will still be sold a Coke hat instead – hence the cat wearing the bowler hat. It’s a truly Norfolk invention.’ These three whiskies, Farmers, Malt ‘N’ Rye and Parched, have pride of place in a new shop, in a new building, on the 10-acre site which is also home to The Kitchen. This restaurant and coffee shop is all bright and airy, seats around 70 people, and offers more room outside on the extensive terraces where dogs are welcome. Much use is made of the new corporate colour, a bright blue, there’s a wonderful Vivienne Westwood Union Jack print on the main wall, and floor to ceiling windows.

S P O T L I G H T

THE KITCHEN is open Monday to Sunday, 9am until 4.15pm, while St Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Distillery is also open seven days a week, 9am until 5.30pm

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ANDREW NELSTROP DAVID FITT GIVING A DISTILLERY TOUR

RECIPE OVERLEAF

FARMERS is a whisky made from a wide range of grains hence Farmers. A beautifully rich and fruity whisky PARCHED is a grain whisky named after the torrified barley used as one of the grains. Torrified is a term given to grain that has been roasted, or parched, in the malting process. The resulting whisky is beautifully light and creamy MALT ‘N’ RYE has a taste of sweet toffee, golden syrup, and demerara sugar, with hints of fresh green apples, vanilla and a little spice

- Stop press - The Norfolk Parched has just won European Whisky of the Year 2018 according to Jim Murray and his highly respected Whisky Bible

EVENING - for groups by prior arrangement

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DAVID FITT

THE TOURS WORLD WHISKY - once a month - with plenty of tasting included

The building took 18 months to complete and now head chef Matt Jackson, a long serving member of the team, offers a selection of different breakfasts (look out for the St George’s), sandwiches, daily specials, and Sunday roasts. My eye was caught by the English Whisky macarons, created by Tim Kinnaird of Norwich’s Macarons and More and there’s a great wine list by Harper Wells. The shop sells 300 whiskies, by far the biggest choice in the region, with ones from as far away as Japan. All of the English Whisky Co.’s offerings are available, including some great gift sets, plus a selection of local produce such as wines, beers, chocolates, jams and chutneys. The complex also offers great conference facilities and is a popular wedding venue. Andrew sums it all up, saying: ‘The distillery welcomes upwards of 45,000 visitors every year and The Kitchen enables us now to offer them a lovely place for breakfast or lunch alongside the tours and our retail offering. It will provide the perfect environment to relax, unwind, and eat with friends.’

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Recipe -

S P O T L I G H T

DARK CHOCOLATE & ENGLiSH WHiSKY TART PREP TIME: 1 HOUR (INCLUDING PASTRY) Equipment A whisk; small tart cases; sweet pastry; 1 lined tart base (baked blind) Ingredients 250g of plain flour; 100g of unsalted butter; 100g of icing sugar; 2 eggs (room temperature); a pinch of salt RICHARD BAINBRIDGE, BENEDICTS RESTAURANT, NORWICH

Praline Chocolate Ganache 100g of 55% chocolate; 25ml of double cream; 30g of praline paste; 30g of English Whisky Co. Norfolk Farmers Whisky

METHOD For the Pastry Place all ingredients into a bowl and bring together with your hands until a smooth paste. Cover the bowl with clingfilm and place into the fridge over night. For the English Whisky and Praline Chocolate Ganache Place the cream into a large pot and bring to the boil. Once boiling, slowly pour over your chocolate, whisking continuously until all of the chocolate is melted. Then fold in the praline paste. Finish by folding the English Whisky Co. Norfolk Farmers Whisky and then allow to cool slightly. Remove the tarts from the fridge and gently pour the chocolate mixture and fill to the brim. Pop back in the fridge or leave on the side and allow the tart to set. Once set, your tart is ready to serve. To Serve Serve with vanilla ice cream and a double English Whisky!

[Serves 4

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INGREDIENTS

COOKING TIME: 10 MINS

THE GLOBE

THE TALK OF THE TOWN

CHARITY BALL

The Globe at Wells plays host to the Talk of Wells events this month and next, including Cinematographer and President of the British Society of Cinematographers, Clive Tickner on November 13 and Dr Andy Wood OBE, Chief Executive of Adnams on November 27. Diners will enjoy a two-course menu with a glass of wine and £5 from every meal goes to the Wells Maltings Trust. Visit www.theglobeatwells.co.uk

Barnham Broom will be celebrating 40 years with a charity black tie ball on November 25. Held in the marquee and Barford Suite, there will be arrival drinks and canapes, a three course dinner followed by tea and coffee; a live band (JW’s Swing, Swing, Swing); and a celebrity after-dinner speaker. Visit www.barnham-broom.co.uk

CHARITY DINNER

Visit www.debut.ccn.ac.uk

Debut Restaurant at City College Norwich is holding a charity ‘dinner with a hint of the Punjab’, in aid of Marie Curie Norfolk on November 24, with special guest Hardeep Singh Kohli. With Charlie Hodson also making a special appearance, expect Woodforde’s beer and a Wild Knight Vodka mango sorbet to be on the menu!

DIARY DATES Autumn is well and truly here but we have plenty of food and drink events to fall back on, says Emma Outten 14

NATIONAL SCHOOL MEALS WEEK It’s National School Meals Week from November 13 and 17, with chefs from Norse schools going into some of the county's best restaurants to cook a lunch service with them! They include Benedicts, The White Horse in Brancaster, Brasted's, Warwick Street Social and The Assembly House. Plus Richard Hughes is going into Dereham Church Infant School to do a master class. Visit www.nsmw.org.uk

THE REAL DOWNTON ABBEY

Holkham Estates Director, David Horton-Fawkes, will be giving an illustrated talk on ‘The real Downton Abbey’, memories of Althorp, Lowther and Holkham, on November 23, in the newly refurbished Warham Reading Room. Supper will be provided comprising a venison stew and apple crumble; tea and coffee will be available and you are welcome to bring along your own alcohol. Visit www.holkham.co.uk

FESTIVE EVENTS... CHRISTMAS MARKET

Earsham Hall is holding a Christmas Market on November 28, when the courtyard will be open to stallholders with their gifts. The showrooms will also be open, along with the tearoom. More than 500 people attended last year. Visit www.earshamhallevents.co.uk

LATE NIGHT SHOPPING

Horning is holding a Late Night Shopping event on November 30. Shops taking part include The Galley’s Deli; Horning Post Office - offering tastings of Norfolk Garden Preserves; Tavern Tasty Meats – which will be having a BBQ on the green; The Staithe Willow Tearooms - holding a craft market; and the local Mace shop - holding a wine tasting. Plus expect plenty of mulled wine and mince pies! Call 01692 630833

XMAS LIGHTS

The annual Christmas lights switch on ceremony in Holt takes place on November 15 at 6.30pm. The charming North Norfolk town makes a night of it, with a pantomime horse race, a parade and lots of dressing up! It is obviously also a great chance to shop and enjoy supper and a few drinks in one of the town’s numerous eateries! It all sounds like a Feast Norfolk kind of night. Visit www.holtchristmaslights.org

GIFT FAIR

Creake Abbey’s Christmas Gift Fair takes place on November 25, with more than 50 stands, including festive decorations and wreaths, food and drink, local art including jewellery, paintings and some carefully selected local crafts. The Creake Abbey Food Hall will be bursting with festive cheeses, hams and other foodie treats. Visit www.creakeabbey.co.uk

FESTIVE FAIR

A Festive Fair is planned at The Forum in Norwich from November 24 to 27, featuring a host of indoor and outdoor stalls selling East Anglian arts, crafts, plants and winter produce - such as home-made sweets, mince pies, cheese, preserves and so on - as well as a series of festive food and drink stations outside the building. Visit www.theforumnorwich.co.uk

And don't forget... Briarfields’ Wine Night takes place on November 3! Visit www.briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk You can enjoy another Saturday Slurp cellar tour and wine tasting at Bakers and Larners on November 11. Visit www.bakersandlarners.co.uk And it’s the Norwich Christmas Lights Switch On, on November 17. Visit www.norwich.gov.uk

Looking ahead...

CHRISTMAS MARKETS Deepdale Christmas Market takes place from December 1 to 3. Dalegate Market, Deepdale Backpackers & Camping and St Mary’s Church will welcome more than 120 local artisans and producers to the little coastal village of Burnham Deepdale near Brancaster. Visit www.dalegatemarket.co.uk

And Woodforde’s hold their Magical Christmas Market at the Woodbastick site on December 2 and 3. It’s a great chance to tour the brewery, sample the beers, and enjoy the many foodie stalls. There’s even a local choir performing. Visit www.woodfordes.co.uk

And further afield...

CHRISTMAS MARKETS

BBC Good Food’s Festive Feast returns for another year at Hampton Court Palace from December 8 to 10. There will be more than 50 stalls featuring handpicked producers, all filling the palace’s historic courtyards. Visit www.hrp.org.uk

GET YOUR WINTER ESCAPE WRAPPED UP! Moles Cottage is perfectly located in Holt for soaking up the festive atmosphere and enjoying the Christmas lights. In easy walking distance of all the best eateries in town and close to the coast and fabulous beaches it is a perfect winter escape. Furnished in a relaxing, contemporary style, this cute little cottage sleeps 3 and is great for a couple or a small family. Dog friendly too, prices start from £346 for a 3-night stay. Visit www.norfolkhideaways.co.uk or call 01485 211022

PORKY FUN

THE ANNUAL PORKSTOCK FOOD AND MUSIC FESTIVAL DREW RECORD CROWDS AS FEAST NORFOLK UNVEILED ITS RECIPE COMPETITION WINNER

VISIT

PICTURES BY NORFOLK FOOD & DRINK

www.porkstock.co.uk

THE FAMILY-FRIENDLY food and music festival, Porkstock, saw almost 6000 people visit the Norfolk Showground last month. Around 40 artisan producers, numerous refreshment stands, several local bands and musicians all joined forces to present an action-packed day. Woodforde’s Brewery was on hand with lots of beer, including a brew created especially for the day called Porkies, and Archer’s butchers of Norwich created the Nelson hot dog (made with a bit of Woodforde’s Nelson beer) which was delicious! The Cookery Demonstration Stage, hosted by Charlie Hodson, saw a busy timetable of events and activities including displays by Great British Bake Off contestant Kate Barmby from Brooke, and Daniel Freear from Strattons Hotel in Swaffham, whose Pork Wellington was a triumph. We were proud to unveil the winner of our recipe competition as Vivien Cawrse of Norwich, who cooked her delicious yet simple pork and apple dish live on stage with TV funnyman Hardeep Singh Kohli.

Vivien, fortunately not a shrinking violet as the banter on the demo stage is quite legendary, thoroughly enjoyed her spot and cooked up her dish without a hitch. And it was then much enjoyed by many members of the audience. She says: ‘What a great day, I was so well looked after!’ Vivien also attended the evening Knees Up, as a VIP, when people really let their hair down in The ElectroSwing-Jazz Gin Palace and danced the night away to yet more live music. Her prize included a 12-month subscription to Feast Norfolk, a Porkstock piggy apron, a copy of the Norfolk Cookbook and a goody bag full of Norfolk produce. In fact, Vivien enjoyed herself so much that she plans to return next year as a volunteer! • Porkstock, run by a team of volunteers and sponsored by Cranswick Country Food and Woodforde’s Brewery, is now in its fourth year and all proceeds, thought to be around £10,000, go to Nelson's Journey, a Norfolk-based children’s charity.

Porkstock VIVIEN’S WINNING RECIPE

BACKSTAGE AT PORKSTOCK VIVIEN CAWRSE

Chef Joe Hinchliffe had an insider’s view of Porkstock as he helped at the Cookery Demonstration Stage.

HE SHARES HIS DAY WITH US

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SAXON PORK [Serves 4 & APPLE STEW

I developed this recipe when I was a member of an Anglo Saxon group called Ordgar. I wanted a tasty simple recipe which only used ingredients available locally in Saxon times. I am also a very fussy eater, so I wanted something that I would like and enjoy. It is a meal that can be cooked in a cauldron over a fire and if you leave the stew to marinate overnight after cooking, the mushrooms soak in the apple flavour and are delicious. INGREDIENTS 1 litre of apple juice; 1 vegetable stock cube; 8 pork loin steaks - from Archer’s Butchers; 2 large (or 4 small) leeks, sliced; 8oz of small button mushrooms; 3 eating apples, chopped, with skin on; salt and pepper to season; rosemary or sage to flavour METHOD Pour the apple juice into a large pan and crumble in the stock cube. Add any herbs chosen – I don’t use them as I like the clear apple flavour. Cut off all visible fat from the loin steaks and cube the meat. Add to the apple juice and put on a high heat. Cut the leeks into half inch slices and add to the juice with the whole button mushrooms. Add seasoning and cook for 20 minutes stirring occasionally. 5 minutes from end add the cored and chopped apples (still with the peel on). To serve New potatoes or with thick slices of spelt bread and butter

F E S T I V A L

JOE HINCHLIFFE

EVER HAVING BEEN to Porkstock, or even a foodcentric festival before, I was unsure of what to expect as I headed for the Norfolk Showground. Would it be similar to a farmers’ market? What would the turnout be like? And, more importantly, would there be free samples!? Please let there be free samples! I was to be part of the large volunteer workforce that ensures Porkstock runs smoothly every year. More specifically I would be working backstage at the Cookery Demo Stage organised by Charlie’s Food Heroes, Coxfords Butchers, and Feast Norfolk Magazine. A handful of the region’s talented, passionate chefs would be sharing their lip-smacking pork recipes with the crowd, live on stage. As a chef myself at Woodforde’s Brewery tap house, The Fur & Feather, Woodbastwick, it was an exciting opportunity for a young chef to ‘rub shoulders’ with some really talented individuals. Running the show was local chef and Feast Norfolk columnist, Charlie Hodson, accompanied by comedian Hardeep Singh Kohli and supported by multiple bottles of Prosecco - trust me, I was the one opening them! The stage provided genuine entertainment throughout the day, and with Charlie playing referee between Mark Poynton and Alan Paton, the two chefs provided great competition and relentless pig-related banter whilst on stage, much to the crowd’s delight. The stage also provided a fantastic platform for a timely reminder of what Porkstock is all about. The charity Nelson’s Journey has been the beneficiary of Porkstock for the last three years. The charity’s patron Carol Bundock took to the stage with last year’s Great British Bake Off contestant, Kate Barmby, to wow the crowd with her bakery skills, with a porky twist, of course. Scott Taylor and Jamie Archer provided a sausage roll masterclass, which doubled up as my lunch, conveniently. Simon Hunter Marsh and spice man A De Piff battled in the Pork Satay Challenge, the real winner of which was the spice range and, having used them, I can vouch for the depth of flavour and the creative, palatable infusion they offer. Feast Norfolk’s recipe competition winner Vivien Cawrse also took to the stage to share her winning recipe, a delicious apple and pork stew. Having helped Vivien prep her dish, I knew she was feeling slightly nervous whilst getting ‘mic-ed up’ to go out on stage but, to her credit, she had the crowd eating out of her hands, or polystyrene cups as it were, in no time at all. And with Hardeep as her wingman, the pair were a very entertaining watch. I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed myself. There’s a lot to be said about the coming together of like-minded individuals, fuelled by the belief in better quality, locally sourced produce, whilst raising money for charity and having a lot of fun, too.

, THE ALPS IN KING S LYNN On November 24 the Alps come to King’s Staithe Square when The Bank House opens its own Après Ski bar. Housed in a marquee in the front courtyard of the Grade II* listed townhouse hotel, it will feature an open fire, comfy seating, rugs and furs, antique skis, mountain views, and sparkling Christmas decorations. Think mulled wine, hot chocolate, cinnamon cookies, mince pies and even a bit of (manufactured ) snow! The pop-up bar will offer the same range of delicious beers, wines and cocktails available inside Bank House, including 57 varieties of gin, 12 whiskies and two cocktails; the Snowshoe, a bourbon and mint cocktail, and the Coco Snowball, a vodka and Malibu based one. Visit www.thebankhouse.co.uk

HOT TO TROT We are liking the sound of the new Hot Rocks restaurant in Garden Street, Cromer, owned and managed by John and Donna Lee, and led by head chef Simon Hunter Marsh. The main theme of the hot stone cooking restaurant is to provide a unique dining experience using great local products like fisherman John's own caught crab and lobster, all backed up by Simon's deliciously inventive daily specials. Call 01263 478561

A GOOD INVESTMENT

(picture below) Roger Hickman’s Restaurant in Upper St Giles Street, Norwich, has announced a £500,000 investment to create a private dining room and a second kitchen, increasing its capacity by 50 per cent. The restaurant will offer private dining, small functions and cookery demonstrations in the new first floor room, above the existing restaurant, which is due to open early in 2018. Visit www.rogerhickmansrestaurant.com

COMING SOON

N EWS

R OU N D - U P Emma Outten serves up the latest news and gossip in her regular - and highly popular - feature MACKEREL SUPPER

NEW DELI

Editor Sarah Hardy was lucky enough to be invited on a Coastal Exploration Company sailing trip from Wells - complete with a foraged supper. Skipper Henry Chamberlain navigated the 30ft whelk boat around the channels of Wells. Chef Charlie Hodson then cooked up a delicious foraged supper of mackerel with wild parsley and Woodforde’s beer which was enjoyed by the party. Henry will restart his trips in April next year and he is continuing his link with the Purfleet Trust in King’s Lynn. Visit www.coastalexplorationcompany.co.uk

The award-winning Market Bistro in Saturday Market Place in King’s Lynn is set to open its new deli, pub and rooms this month. Owners Lucy and Richard Golding took over the former Venns pub last year and have lavished lots of care and attention on the 19th century building next door. Now called Goldings, it promises something new for the town with eight self catering units, many of which overlook the Minster, plus a deli selling lots of local produce and a pub with craft beers and plenty of different gins. Visit www.marketbistro.co.uk

FEED WITH CONFIDENCE Congratulations to two cafés in Norwich, Biddy’s Tea Room in Lower Goat Lane and The Sanctuary Coffee Stop in Grove Walk, which have both been shortlisted for a Feed with Confidence award by local mothers. The awards have been designed by Lansinoh to celebrate places and people across the country supporting breastfeeding mums. Visit www.lansinoh.co.uk

COFFEE DAY Well done to Purdy’s Tea Room based at Woodgate Nursery in Aylsham which hosted a Macmillan Coffee Day recently, and raised more than £720. All hot drink proceeds sold throughout the day went to the charity, with the tea room also offering Macmillan themed cakes, including a raspberry and almond Battenburg. Visit www.woodgatenursery.co.uk

Ne w s & Gossip

BEER AWARDS

BROWNIE PROMISE

FOOD FAIR

Byfords in Holt has been busy setting challenges for Gresham students, based on products they sell in store. The first was to come up with a new lemon cake, and the second was to come up with a dairy and gluten free brownie to sell in the store - the winner’s brownie is proving very popular! The next challenge will probably also be a gluten free or dairy free project - watch this space! Visit www.byfords.org.uk

The first Festive Food Fair at Holkham Hall, on December 16 and 17, looks like it’s going to be a fabulous affair! This year the estate has been working very closely with local producers, and cake maker Claire Owen will be creating a Russian wedding cake to be displayed in The South Drawing Room. Visit www.holkham.co.uk GREEN DRAGON

(picture above) Lacons is happy to announce another four awards, this time at SIBA's Independent Beer Awards. The 3.8 per cent flagship Encore won Gold, Legacy won Silver and amber ale, Affinity and heritage recipe Audit Ale, both won Bronze. This brings the grand total of awards to 47 since the Great Yarmouth brewer’s return in 2013. Visit www.lacons.co.uk

NEW NUMBER We’re watching plans for the new No. Twenty9 in the heart of Burnham Market with interest! The Bar and Restaurant is due to open in January, and will have four beautifully designed private dining rooms, a glass enclosed wine cellar, an open kitchen with a fire pit, and 101 rums. We can hardly wait! Visit www.number-29.com

LOCAL FLAVOURS AND THE WINNER IS... Congratulations to the Green Dragon, Wymondham, announced as the overall winner of the 2017 South Norfolk Community Pub of the Year competition. Smaller category winners included the Wortwell Bell, Burston Crown and Netherton House, Long Stratton.

Visit www.south-norfolk.gov.uk

Local Flavours 2017, which took place recently at the Norfolk Showground, raised more than £200 for YANA (You Are Not Alone), a charity dedicated to promoting mental health awareness amongst farmers and producers. Now in its fifth year, Local Flavours attracted 120 local food and drink producers and more than 1300 buyers – all keen to show support for this important industry. Visit www.localflavours.co.uk and www.yanahelp.org

GOOD SHOW Some of our favourite food producers, such as Crush Foods, Candi’s Chutney, Bon Bakery and Norfolk & Nelson Tea Company are heading to the BBC Good Food Show at the Birmingham NEC at the end of this month, and will be flying the flag for Norfolk Food and Drink’s Proudly Norfolk campaign. Good on ‘em! Visit www.bbcgoodfoodshow.com

CONTINUES OVERLEAF www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

B D &B DI EA ST N LS AY NE AV CA R, AI TI LA O BL N E

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Middle of nowhere, centre of everywhere! WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA

Fresh, local and seasonal is our ethos here at the Saracen’s Head, so come and enjoy a delicious, locally sourced meal with us See us featured in the Norfolk Table Cookbook Lunch orders will be taken from 12-2pm Mon to Sat and 12.30-2.30pm on Sundays. Dinner from 6.30-8.30pm Tues to Sat and 6.30-8pm Sunday and Monday. You are always best to make a booking. Call us on 01263 768909 or email info@saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk

www.saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk

KINGS ARMS FREE

Fresh, local and seasonal is our ethos here at the Saracens. Being in the middle of nowhere is the perfect excuse to come and enjoy a meal whilst you explore this wonderful part of North Norfolk. Our full menu is available every day, lunch and dinner and in addition we have our summer lunch menu from oﬀer the H OMonday U Sto Saturday. E • Sunday F L lunches E GareGveryBspecial U RandGwe H most delicious roast rump of Blickling reared beef.

Restaurant & Country Pub

If it’s too far to travel for a meal, why not stay the night and make a quick break of it!

Summer Opening Times In July & August we will be open 7 days a week this summer Lunch orders will be taken from 12.00 to 2.30 Dinner from 6.30 to 9.00, except Sundays and Mondays 6.30 to 8.30

XMAS BOOKINGS now being taken

We do great Christmas Parties! Bring your friends or team and we will help you celebrate.

See our website for the menu

Christmas Day join us for a glass of Champagne T BEAROnbefore TO LEAVE WELLS? enjoying a traditional four-course lunch on the beautiful North Norfolk coast. HEN WHY NOT STAY... On New Year’s Eve come and indulge in our

fabulous seven-course set menu with complimentary fizz to usher the new year in from 7pm ‘til late.

Inn and Spicer’s House on The Buttlands, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk NR23 1EU Fine Events Room Dining & Weddings & *Find out more at www.theglobeatwells.co.uk/christmas Tel: 01328 710206 www.theglobeatwells.co.uk Bar Meals Functions The Buttlands, Wells-next-the-Sea NR23 1EU T: 01328 710206 E: hello@theglobeatwells.co.uk

Large Outdoor Eating Area & Kids Play Area

Real Local Ales & Speciality Beers & Wines

HomeGrown Fruit & Veg

The Kings Arms, Main Rd, Fleggburgh, Gt Yarmouth NR29 3AG T: 01493 368333 www.kingsarmsfleggburgh.com

Ne w s & Gossip , COLMAN S CAMPAIGN The campaign to keep Britvic’s and Unilever’s Norwich site open continues apace, with more than 11,000 people having signed the petition. The Britvic Factory in Norwich is to close, putting 242 jobs at risk, and Unilever, the maker of Colman’s Mustard, is considering its own future at the site on Bracondale, expecting to conclude its review of its facility at the end of this month. Visit www.change.org

ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT Fifty six (or 3.7 per cent of) food establishments in Norwich require improvement to food hygiene standards, with a Food Hygiene Rating of two or less, according to latest figures. Our fine city came six out of a league table of 47 in the Eastern region. However, in the region as a whole, 3.6 per cent of food establishments require improvement lower than the national average of 5 per cent.

CIDER STRENGTH The new Harleston Cider Company is going from strength to strength, since taking on commercial premises in Palgrave last year. From humble beginnings making cider as a hobby in 2010, master cider maker Ken Wooley is now planning to look at bottling their award-winning Ice Cider, a luxury product not dissimilar to pudding wine, which is excellent with strong cheese and desserts. Visit www.harlestoncider.co.uk

GOOD FOOD INDEED

(picture left) Congratulations to Tuddenham Mill, which has been acclaimed by The Good Food Guide 2018, receiving the highest cooking score in Suffolk. Maison Bleue in Bury St Edmunds also appears in the Guide; Shucks at the Yurt, at Drove Orchard gets a mention for being an ‘unusual eaterie’; and Wells Crab House is a new entry thanks to reader recommendations. Visit www.thegoodfoodguide.co.uk

Don't forget... Norfolk Restaurant Week continues until November 10 (excluding weekends) across the county, where restaurants offer set price two and three course lunches and dinners. Around 60 eateries are taking part and it’s the chance to try out somewhere new. Here at Feast we will be tucking in with gusto. Visit www.norfolkrestaurantweek.co.uk

, SALLY S BLEND

And finally... Congratulations to our friends at Amaretto Deli in Norwich, for being named runners up for Best Deli/ Café in the English Italian awards, the UK’s biggest Italian Hospitality and Business Competition! Visit www.amarettodeli.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Steve Perrett of the Norfolk Coffee Company in Holt not only has a new roaster up and running; he has also launched new Limited Edition coffee Sally's Blend - an espresso blend of two special micro-lot coffees from Colombia, Finca Las Brisas and La Fortuna - following the death his mum from vascular dementia earlier this year. £1 from every bag sold will be donated to the Alzheimer's Society. Visit www.norfolk.coffee

A MODEL

SHiP

THE SHIP AT BRANCASTER IS ONE OF THOSE FINE FLYING KIWI INNS, OWNED BY NORTH NORFOLK FOOD CHAMPION CHRIS COUBROUGH. EMMA OUTTEN PAID A VISIT ONE SUNDAY LUNCHTIME boutique hotels on the North Norfolk coast. He also owns The Crown Hotel in Wells-next-the-Sea (I think I might have mentioned the copper bath on the balcony of one of the rooms once or twice!). The Ship is on the Main Road through Brancaster and, once inside, has that similar Flying Kiwi-style warm and inviting feel about it. But, this being The Ship, there’s also a nice, nautical theme to the interior (expect signs to the ‘boiler room’ and the ‘cabins’ upstairs, for example, plus the odd Blue Peter-style model ship on the window sill!). We were shown to a rustic wooden table in a cosy corner (I particularly liked the fur lined lampshade backlighting my partner), where we immediately perused the comprehensive wine list, selected by Chris himself, and Jamie Aram (Director at Hallgarten Druitt – Wine Importer of the Year 2011 at the International Wine and Spirit Competition). Plus, I noticed, there was a Wine of the Week written on a nearby blackboard, for those who can manage a whole bottle over lunch. I went for a glass of Dona Paula Sauvignon Blanc, which indeed had lovely herbal notes (£5.40 for 175ml), although my other half eschewed wine altogether and had a half of Adnams Ghost Ship.

OING OUT FOR SUNDAY LUNCH doesn’t always have to mean a roast with all the trimmings, as tempting as that may be, on these autumnal days. And so, with that in mind, we recently headed out onto the open road to savour a Sunday lunch with a slightly more open mind. Our destination was The Ship Hotel in Brancaster, which is owned by Chris Coubrough, he of Flying Kiwi Inns, those

E A T I N G

www.shiphotelnorfolk.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

VISIT

The Sunday menu is a nice and simple two courses for £19.95 or three courses for £24.95 affair, although there are additional appetisers on offer, such as Brancaster oysters with tabasco and lemon – however, we settled on a bowl of mixed Mediterranean olives and some warm bread and butter (£2 each). There were a couple of roast options on the menu (roast sirloin of beef or roast leg of lamb on the day we went) but, Brancaster being a traditional fishing village, and The Ship specialising in preparing locally caught seafood to the highest standard, it would have seemed a bit churlish not to sample the fish dishes. My partner did so with gusto: for starters, he had the selection of seafood, comprising oak smoked salmon, Brancaster oyster, peppered mackerel, crab meat and shell on prawns with Marie Rose and fresh lemon. We

O U T

probably could’ve shared it as the plate was swimming in seafood. He’s not a fan of oysters but the staff kindly offered to cook them tempura style, with a sweet chilli dip, which almost converted him. I meanwhile, had crumbed brie on a salad of leaves with garlic mayonnaise and toasted pumpkin seeds. Cutting through the crumb, the brie oozed out rather like a volcanic eruption onto the salad below, which left the cup of mayonnaise almost redundant. Keeping with the fishy theme, my partner had fillet of hake for his main, with Spanish style butter beans, peppers, tomato, chorizo and spinach. Now, he normally has a ‘melt in the mouth’ moment whenever we eat out, and this was no exception, as the hake did just that. And the bed of butter beans was muy bien, as they say in Spain.

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HAVE A FEAST THIS CHRISTMAS THE GIN TRAP INN is a traditional and cosy 17th century coaching inn. Serving delicious homemade fare & offering luxurious rooms. Open from 11:30am to late daily

J O I N U S O N 8 TH & 1 5 TH D E C E M B E R FOR A THREE COURSE MEAL AND LIVE MUSIC IN THE BAR

JUST £30PP

CHRISTMAS EVE Live music from the Fried Pirates, mulled wine and roasted chestnuts

NEW YEAR’S EVE 70s fever party with delicious buffet and music throughout the night - £15 a ticket

NOW BOOKIN FO G XMAS R D LUNCHAY

6 High Street, Ringstead, Hunstanton, Norfolk PE36 5JU 01485 525264 www.thegintrapinn.co.uk

S E A S O N A L L UN C H E S F RO M £ 1 7 . 95 F E S T I V E N I G H T S FROM £20.95 C H R I S T M A S A F T E R N O O N T E A £ 15 Get together and indulge with family, friends or work colleagues at this special time of year at Norfolk’s premier golf club. All food is locally sourced and all prices are per person.

PARTIES WELCOME

BOOK NOW 01603 429928 www.royalnorwichgolfclub.co.uk Royal Norwich, Drayton High Road, Hellesdon, Norwich, NR6 5AH

E A T I N G

O U T

Meanwhile, I had dressed Wells crab with Marie Rose, buttered new potatoes and fresh herbs. The shell was piled high with the meat and I quickly realised I wasn’t going to make much of an impression on the big bowl of new potatoes – but hey, no-one could accuse The Ship of not serving up a hearty plateful. Full as we were, we decided to share a dessert, and made the right choice, with a raspberry and natural yoghurt parfait, with raspberry coulis, crushed meringue and more of those lovely Norfolk raspberries. This was light and refreshing and we made short work of it. Afterwards, I was so satiated I could’ve done with an afternoon kip, so it’s good to know that hotel has nine bedrooms - we were allowed a sneak-peak at room nine at the very top. Another time, perhaps!

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

MAKING HIS MARK

ANDY NEWMAN HEADS TO ONE OF NORFOLK’S LEADING FOODIE PUBS, THE KINGS ARMS IN THE PRETTY BROADS VILLAGE OF FLEGGBURGH, FOR DINNER WITH HIS WIFE VISIT

www.kingsarmsfleggburgh.com

NOTHER MONTH and another Norfolk village pub which has been saved by turning it into a food destination – it seems that, ultimately, it will be chefs who ride to the rescue of our much-loved locals. Threatened with closure and redevelopment in 2011, the Kings Arms at Fleggburgh, near Acle, was bought by former Aviva finance director and local Philip Scott. After extensive refurbishment, Mr Scott sold it, two years later, to up and coming Norfolk chef Mark Dixon, who after 12 years at the Imperial Hotel in Great Yarmouth, was looking to open his own establishment. Despite being just 29 at the time, Mark was up for the considerable challenge of turning a historic and slightly out-of-the-way Broadland village pub into an establishment which would attract foodies from far and wide, and in particular from Norwich.

E A T I N G

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www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

MARK DIXON (CENTRE) AT THE PASS

There has been a pub here since the early 1800s, with the current sizeable building constructed in 1905. With a large bar area, a decent-sized restaurant, and an extensive garden, the pub ticked all of the boxes – although its relative isolation meant that making it a commercial success was entirely dependent on building a reputation for food which would spread beyond the village and its immediate surrounds. The menu is ambitious, and the prices reflect this (starters hover between £7 and £8, mains range north of £20, and puddings are around the £7 mark; there is also a £42 tasting menu). For pub fare this would be expensive, for proper fine dining it would represent good value; so we headed there on an October Monday evening to judge for ourselves. The first impressions were encouraging; there has been no stinting on the décor. Country house dark red walls and whitewashed wood panels give an authentic feel to the place, while retaining a sense of light and space. Encouragingly, despite it being the traditionally dead Monday evening, many of the tables in the restaurant were taken. With the pub so close to the coast, we both decided to turn to fish for our starters. The menu has a good selection of fish dishes, but often the best bet if you want the best of a restaurant’s pescatarian offer is to turn to the specials, because they will reflect the best of that particular day’s market – so that is what we did. I kicked off with grilled octopus. Although you will often find octopus on East Anglian fish markets, it is the Mediterranean that comes to mind for me when I see it on a menu, and obviously the chef agreed. The dish was the Med on a plate: the octopus served with semi-dried tomatoes, chorizo, tiny broad beans, basil and crispy seaweed, all finished with balsamic vinegar. With so many ingredients, this was one of those dishes that could have been muddled, but the whole was greater than the sum of the parts, and each element played its part to create a really well thought-through plate of food. Becky went for a seafood which is more usually linked to Norfolk – a lobster bisque, made with North Norfolk lobster, and served with aged parmesan and a saffron aioli, an interesting twist on the traditional French accompaniment. The richness of the lobster was tempered by the subtle anise flavour of fennel, a clever and effective way of enlivening a dish which could otherwise have been too rich.

After such fishy starters, we both decided that something meaty was needed for our main course. Serving pork just so is always a test for a restaurant kitchen, particularly when the dish combines different cuts which need very different treatments and cooking times. So my choice of Dingley Dell pork belly and fillet – probably the two porcine cuts which require the longest and shortest cooking respectively – was the way to see how skilled the chefs were at the business of cooking meat.

www.nethertonhouse.co.uk

party Xmas

bookings

strattons hotel

NOW BEING TAKEN

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with self catering, restaurant and café deli

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Visit our 17th Century restaurant & garden All our dishes are home cooked, using fresh local produce | Families welcome

Netherton House, The Street, Long Stratton, Norwich NR15 2XG | 01508 531500 enquiries@nethertonhouse.co.uk www.facebook.com/nethertonhouserestaurant

OUR OPENING TIMES Monday-Thursday 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Friday- Saturday 12pm-Midnight, Sunday 12pm-10pm

THE WELLS CRAB HOUSE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

www.crownhotelnorfolk.co.uk 01328 710209 www.shiphotelnorfolk.co.uk 01485 210333 WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA

NORTH NORFOLK

BRANCASTER

38-40 Freeman street WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA CALL US ON 01328 710456 WWW.WELLSCRABHOUSE.CO.UK

MARK DIXON

E A T I N G

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The answer was: very skilled. The belly was succulent and melt in the mouth, with a good layer of fat left on, vital to allow the meat to remain moist during its long, slow cooking. Meanwhile the well-seasoned fillet was as tender as this premium cut should be. The pork was served with ‘award-winning’ black pudding (the menu specified neither its origin nor the nature of the award it had won), fondant potato, kohlrabi and lovage; the traditional pork complement of apple was represented by apple purée and a rich cider jus. The dish was rich and unctuous – my only complaint being that I wish there had been a little more of the delicious crackling. Our other main course was again a special: roasted loin of Bunwell red deer, with truffled butternut squash, baby turnips and beets, autumn cabbage, dauphinoise potatoes and a rich chocolate jus. Venison loin is such a lean cut that achieving the perfect just-cooked state while retaining a moist tenderness is really tricky. It’s one of the reasons so many chefs turn to the sousvide for this meat; my first reaction on feeling and tasting what was served was that this, too, had been in a water-bath. But the flavour was unmistakably of the oven, perfectly cooked. To accompany our food we stuck to the nine-strong house wine list, always a good barometer of the overall wine offering. All the house wines are priced at a reasonable £4.50 for a 175ml glass (or £17.95 a bottle); they are well-chosen, and the selection offers choice enough to match all of the food that we ate. A much lengthier list of wines available by the bottle will satisfy all but the most fussy vinophile.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Becky’s pudding was billed as ‘Norfolk Strawberries & Cream’, but in the event was far more than that simple description suggested. Yes, there were strawberries, but alongside was a set vanilla cream (with just the right amount of panna cotta ‘wobble’), strawberry jelly, demerara meringues, a white chocolate macaron, and a sharp lime sorbet. Something of a house speciality, this was an extremely well-balanced dish, the sharpness of the sorbet in particular cutting through the sweetness of several of the dish’s elements. Puddings are often the Achilles heel of pub restaurants, but this would grace the table of any fine dining restaurant. My own chocolate fondant was rather more simple. Served with ice cream, the fondant itself was cooked and served in a large espresso cup, which seemed a bit like cheating for a dish which stands or falls on its ability to support itself and yet still be liquid in the middle. Liquid it certainly was, and rich and chocolatey – but I suspect if the chef had tried to run it out it would have collapsed. But that is a small criticism which shouldn’t detract from the overall conclusion, that Mark and his team have succeeded in making the Kings Arms a proper foodie destination. • Earlier this year Mark joined JRE, a restaurant association of European young master chefs that holds more than 180 Michelin stars. The International President is two Michelin-starred chef Ernesto Iaccarino and Norfolk’s Tom Aikens is the ambassador for Britain and Ireland.

g e V t ou

White House Farm -

C O L U M N

Christmas Market - November 18 and 19. Farmers’ Market - December 16. Entry and parking is FREE

Educating children about where fruit and veg comes from is all part of my job, says Charlotte Gurney of White House Farm near Norwich

CAN YOU BELIEVE IT? Last month the family farm turned into the backdrop for the hit children’s show, Down on the Farm, on CBeebies, as they filmed their autumn special. The programme makers invited in local schoolchildren to inspire them, and others up and down the country, about where really good fruit and veg comes from. Yes, we had the JLS star and Strictly Come Dancing winner 'JB' at White House Farm! It was a dizzy moment for the team as he and the BBC crew ate lunch round the fire in our café. We spent all day filming in some drizzly rain and even the farmer's wife became the presenter as she and the children whipped up a blackberry and apple pie - with all the ingredients naturally picked from the farm! If you missed it, be sure to tune into BBC iPlayer to find our show. With fruit and veg on the mind, we've teamed up with our growers, Fresh Approach, the Brett family at Aylsham, for our Christmas market on November 18 and 19. Louise and her team will have their very own veg display for the first time at the farm, showcasing all their gorgeous produce. We can assure you that you won't find fresher or more local as their prize winning sprouts, calabrese, and more will be on show for you to see. This year, for the first time, we'll be giving our customers the chance to preorder their vegetables to be sure they'll be picked/cut specially for them on their chosen pick up date. We strive to offer transparency in everything we do; from where we source our meat, to shouldering our local dairy ensuring each coffee is made with the freshest local milk, and now for the first time, the chance to let our growers know when to cut your Christmas sprout stalk. We're passionate about what we do - about our growers and our produce. We want to engage each and every customer in the farm to fork journey - all within the fine county of Norfolk. So do come and join the hive of activity at our Christmas market. We'll be hosting a fantastic range of festive goodies with more than 50 food and craft stalls, selling everything from chutneys to cheese. Remember to look out for Louise from Fresh Approach who will hand you a vegetable tick list ready for December 25. Add in the chance to create your own personalised hamper, order your turkey and enjoy a glass or two of mulled wine and, well, we simply can't wait to get Christmas started! WHITE HOUSE FARM, WROXHAM ROAD, NORWICH TEL 01603 419357 OR VISIT WWW.NORWICH-PYO.CO.UK

01.

02.

Chef's World -

C O L U M N

Hardest Job in the Kitchen?

ANDREW JONES

Chef Patron Andrew Jones of Farmyard in Norwich shares his kitchen memories but reckons he is a much nicer boss!

Then my chance came, and a big slice of reality. An ‘in between’ job, helping out a mate, led to my first head chef position. The creative freedom that I assumed the chef enjoyed turned out to be more of a juggling act. ‘My’ dishes had to work on lots of different levels. They had to meet the guests’ expectations - otherwise they wouldn’t come back, and I would lose my job. They had to satisfy my bosses’ demand for a decent margin, because if the kitchen didn’t make any money I’d lose my job. And they had to be replicable during busy services, or the kitchen would grind to a halt….and I would lose my job. Satisfying my own ego came second after keeping my job and I understood why all the chefs I’d worked for were so protective over their dishes, and had occasional outbursts. How much harder could things get than being the head chef? Much more it turns out. Farmyard is on my mind every minute of the day and night; my wife and kids live and breathe it, too. The highs are terrific and the quiet lunch services terrifying. However, I like to think my own experience of long hours in tough kitchens for tyrannical chefs makes me a better employer. I want to develop the staff I have, give them input on the menu and let them work with the best produce I can find. And I try and keep my own tantrums to a minimum - cheffing is hard enough anyway without dodging saucepans 16 hours a day. • You can also keep upto-date with Andrew via his monthly newsletter - subscribe day. online

VISIT

www.farmyardrestaurant.com

WHEN I WAS TRAINING I was convinced Richard Corrigan had it in for me. The barrage of abuse that regularly came my way left me in no doubt – although, after about a year of it, I learned that was just his way of sorting the wheat from the chaff. Late one night he let his guard down and said with a wink: ‘you’re on the ball, you!’. As a commis-chef, the lowest rung on the kitchen ladder, I thought I had the toughest job in the kitchen. I was given the most menial tasks and I was in earlier and left later than the head chef every day to minimise the chances of catching a bollocking. I did everything I could to get promoted so as not to be the kitchen whipping boy any more. As a chef de partie, running a section, I was again pretty sure I had the toughest job in the kitchen. I had mountains of prep to get through everyday and, every night, my fridge would be emptied by hungry customers. My section was my pride and joy and would run perfectly if only my commis wasn’t messing things up (or after my job). As a sous chef, I knew I definitely had the toughest job in the kitchen. I’d make sure every section was ready for service, take the rap if not, and run the kitchen whilst the chef was in endless meetings. Training staff, organising rotas, making sure cleaning schedules were followed and ordering everything, from cling film to caviar, was my life. I was convinced the head chef had it easy writing menus and bollocking people. Besides, I had loads of dishes in my head that would no doubt change hours a food forever, when I got my chance to be the boss.

"C HIESFFING ha rd en ugh

anywoay WI THOUT

G N I DODG

sauce ans p 16

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Caution: Contains some farmyard language!

THE

ROB HARRISON, the former General Manager and Head Sommelier of Morston Hall, is careering ahead as an independent wine merchant. Emma Outten finds out all about CH WINE MERCHANTS, based in Southrepps

MERCHANT OF

PICTURES BY

MARK ASHBY

WWW.ASHBYSHOOTS.CO.UK

SOUTHREPPS

Rob’s alternative Christmas wines Château Rives Blanques, Blanquette de Limoux 2015 Limoux France With a claim to the throne of being the first appellation to produce sparkling wine some 150 years before the famous ‘drinking the stars’ by Dom Pérignon, this is a great alternative to Champagne and Prosecco. The Mauzac grape is fresh, vibrant and the lees ageing gives the wine a creamy, rich body, a perfect way to start your Christmas.

To START

Clos Guirouilh, Jurançon Sec 2015 South West France The Jurançon region is located in South West France and produces some stunning wines to go with goose or turkey. A blend of Gros Manseng and Courbu grapes from old vines on steep slopes and affected by the dry Foehn wind that encourages slow ripening, the wine is full with flavours of white stone fruits, apple skin, delicate grapefruit and tangerine towards the end. The body is fresh and bright, with richness and mineral undertones and acidity to cut through those Christmas goodies.

White WINE

Il Palazzone, Rosso Del Palazzone VR, Lotto 01/16 Italy A classical red without the price bracket, this is a blend of two vintages: 2011 and 2014 - two years in which the estate did not produce the famous Brunello di Montalcino, which means the best grapes from these years are in this wine. A great wine at a fraction of the price. Red and dark berries with herbal and vegetal notes, great depth and structured tannins.

Red WINE

La Vinyeta* Sols

Dessert 2016 Empordà Spain WINE From a great winery, this

is a blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc from 80 year old vines made by the late harvesting process. Intense wine with raisins, figs, dates and a fresh orange lift.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT...

Domaine des Trinités, L’Invité Viognier 2016 Pays D’Oc France This is an ‘orange wine’ that is as natural as possible, so no fining or filtration and no sulphites. It is gaining momentum so try it before it becomes the next big thing! Produced by fermenting the Viognier on the skins, the wine takes on a whole new dimension.

Rob Harrison

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

N E W

VISIT

www.chwinemerchants.co.uk

HEN ROB HARRISON left school at the age of 16 and started work at Morston Hall, he didn’t know the first thing about the wine industry. However, 10 years at the boutique North Norfolk hotel with its Michelin Starred fine dining restaurant changed all that. ‘I fell in love with the industry and developed a passion for the food and wine side of things,’ says Rob, now 28. He learnt his trade under the wing of the Head Sommelier. ‘When he left in 2009 I was approached to take over the wine list - I did courses along the way and got to go off to different wineries all over Europe, building the knowledge, building the passion and building the wine list.’ He introduced the so-called Wine Flight at Morston, which pairs a wine with each of the seven courses. ‘It gave us a great platform to pair up the wines with the menus that changed every single day,’ says Rob. ‘That gave me a really good insight into the whole science behind wine and food pairing.’ His passion grew for sourcing slightly different grape varietals from different areas to the norm. ‘We would have wines from Croatia and Austria and they weren’t really areas where people were looking for wine,’ he says. By the time he left, last year, having worked his way up to General Manager and Head Sommelier, Morston Hall was being listed year on year in the prestigious Neville Blech top 100 UK wine list. He says of his former employers: ‘Galton and Tracy had been so supportive and had helped me through the whole process.’ However, he adds: ‘I wanted to concentrate on purely the wine side, so decided to set up the wine merchant business from there.’

F A C E S

That was just over a year ago, so how’s it been going? ‘Good so far! It’s a massive thanks to Galton and Tracy, because straight away they were buying wine from me and they were my only customer for the first four months.’ Working out of a small warehouse in Southrepps, near Cromer, he adds: ‘It’s really grown from that point onwards.’ As well as Morston Hall, he also curates and supplies the wine list for the likes of Farmyard in Norwich. He was recently involved in a wine pairing dinner there, using wine from Languedoc-Roussillon and a ‘quirky’ orange wine. And he supplies Season in Wells, saying: 'Jeremy and Rachael Parke have been very supportive for me and we have also done a few wine pairing events.' In fact, Rob supplies quality wines to some of the best restaurants and hotels in East Anglia, including Bib Gourmands. ‘I’ve set it up a bit differently as I understand selling wine to the trade and really understand what it’s like in the hospitality industry.’ (Although it’s worth making the point that he does do private sales, as well). He adds: ‘I wanted to build a wine merchants which solely supplies just Norfolk so that I could build relationships with people. I do it as a one man band: I do the accounts and the deliveries so I get to see who I’m working with every single week. ‘I supply the classics but I get people to try new and different things so I’ve got a nice range of slightly different wines and grape varietals.’ Mirroring his own ethos, Rob likes to use family based wineries. ‘I use smaller wine producers who put their heart and soul into the wine.’ And, watch this space, he may be working with a winery in Norfolk in the near future. As he says: ‘Norfolk, every year, is getting better and better.’

VISIT

Oz is a big fan of Norwich and knows us well. ‘I like HE FIRST THING that strikes you about Oz Clarke is Jarrold’s - I admire independent shops who try to do that he is simply great fun. Someone who perhaps something a bit different. And they are, of course, such an doesn’t take life, or indeed himself, too seriously. He is important part of a town or city.’ definitely someone who likes to have a good time and He has a few favourite city places that he likes to visit carries you along with him on the journey. whilst with us. ‘I like the Fat Cat, I know James (Sawrey And so our interview was punctuated with lots of Cookson) who is a dear old friend at the Last Wine Bar and I giggling, plenty of asides and lots of reminiscences always have to have a pie at the Plough pub on St Benedicts! about great nights out - indeed, several of them in It is hard to fit everywhere in.’ Norwich! He is also a chap of opinions and clearly has As we know, Oz is a great supporter of so-called New an inquiring mind. Brexit was mentioned a few times, World wines and admits to enjoying seeking out new wine he expressed concern about the divide between the north and producing countries and regions. So what are his top tips for south of Britain - and well, so much more that I lost track! new trends in the coming months? But Oz, now in his mid 60s, was really on the other end Well, Oz is very complimentary about English wines, of a telephone line to promote his new book at an event in especially sparkling ones, and also praises Lee Dyer’s award Norwich this month. Oz Clarke’s World of Wine is something winning Winbirri wine, Bacchus 2015, from Surlingham, of a reflective tome as he charts his career through his near Norwich. He tells us to keep our eyes open for wines favourite vineyards. It is a wonderful coffee table sort of book, from Central Turkey, Northern Lebanon and Brazil and packed with great photography and plenty of information, too. adds that while natural wines, wines without sulphur, are He explains: ‘It encompasses my 35-year career, from the becoming popular, he is not a huge fan. ‘Some are excellent first vineyard in Bordeaux that I visited, to newer ones in New but some are awful,’ he says, with his usual candour. Zealand. And there are some gorgeous ones in Italy. I take you Yet Oz is a big supporter of all artisan produce, praising to the vineyards where we meet the winemakers, I talk about craft brewers and Norfolk ones in the grapes, and tell you what particular. ‘Your barley is great, to expect - I take you into my so it follows that your malt is.’ world.’ And he says that he has recently Oz, originally from Kent, been enjoying gin. ‘It is such a is an Oxford graduate who British drink, isn’t it? I enjoy rather fell into a career as the variety and it is all good a wine critic via a spell as news for the Exchequer as it an actor. Indeed his acting is exported so much.’ resumé is rather impressive Oz is also working on a and includes a West End new TV series with Alan spell, a couple of movies Titchmarsh, where the and a stint with the Royal duo visit some lesser Shakespeare Company known National Trust little wonder then that he properties. ‘Ah, yes, there immediately did well on are no wines in this series telly and that his ‘nights although I have to say with’ are so much fun. that I thought the soil So Oz is a natural and climate conditions performer who became at Mount Stewart in a household name in the Northern Ireland were 1980s when he joined, perfect for a vineyard!’ he somewhat by default, jokes. the BBC Food and Drink He is also in the process programme as their wine HE’S BRITAIN’S BEST KNOWN of writing two more books critic. He says his mission WINE CRITIC AND ARRIVES IN which are due out next was to ‘simply make NORWICH THIS MONTH. SARAH year, and has gone back to Britain into a wine drinking HARDY CHATS TO OZ CLARKE his first love of singing - he nation’ and reckons, some was a chorister as a child. ‘I 40 years later, that he has ABOUT HIS CRUSADE TO GET started to perform with the achieved this. ‘It used to be a US ALL DRINKING MORE Armonico Consort last year and class thing but now we all drink WHETHER IT IS WINE, it is something very different. We wine which indicates, I think, that BEER OR GIN! call it Drink to Music, and we pair we are a fairer and more equal society.’ four wines to four pieces of music. It He arrives at Jarrold’s on November 30 is great fun for both us performers and for a wine tasting evening and promises a the audiences. We have taken part in some ‘riotous’ event. ‘Yes, it pretty quickly gets going,’ festivals - and we’d love to do the Norwich one he says. ‘I do one most years and we get a great next year!’ crowd - it is very informal.’

www.ozclarke.com

| E F L A

e n Wi IN

Oz Clarke -

B I G

I N T E R V I E W

Oz Clarke’s

WORLD OF WINE published by Pavilion, £30

is an Oxford

WHO E U T A AD as r GR ee r a a c o fell int

c i r t i c E N a WIspell as an

An Evening with Oz Clarke

rather

takes place in The Pantry Restaurant at Jarrold’s on November 30 at 6.30pm. Tickets are £30, single, and £40, double, which include the wine tasting and a copy of World of Wine. Visit www.jarrold.co.uk

actor

via a

PICTURE BY SIMON BUCK

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

C I T Y

C O L L E G E

N O R W I C H

(nearly)

'Tis the

season

WITH DEBUT RESTAURANT AT CITY COLLEGE NORWICH GEARING UP FOR A BUSY FESTIVE SEASON, EMMA OUTTEN FINDS HOW PLANS ARE SHAPING UP

www.ccn.ac.uk

VISIT

O SOONER had the Hotel School students at City College Norwich been inducted this term, but they found themselves elbow deep in Christmas pudding mix, in preparation for the busy season ahead! Last month was Christmas pudding making and maturing month, with Debut Restaurant Manager, Alan George commenting: ‘You have to think so far ahead.’ Of the pudding production line, he says: ‘What’s wonderful is that in the kitchen one student’s sole job is to create mixed peel and another’s job is to weigh all the flour, or cream all the butter. The main thing here at the college is that it embraces that whole Christmas spirit because everyone is involved in the process.’ Plus, he adds: ‘The smells, I have to say, are fantastic!’ The Christmas puddings include gluten free and vegan versions. ‘And we also make the little individual ones which we sell in our Christmas shop,’ says Alan. Over in bakery, students have been busy doing trial runs for the mince pie pastry, with Alan saying: ‘Our mince pies are unique - they have a shortcrust pastry with a Viennese topping and have a good natural shelf life. Put them in the microwave or gently warm through in the oven and they taste like they’ve just been cooked.’ Last year the students produced in excess of 7000 mince pies! Also on sale in the Christmas shop (which this year will be just inside the entrance to Debut Restaurant) will be gingerbread houses, fudge, Florentines, jars of preserves, brandy butter, shortbread and more. Alan says: ‘I’m looking forward to the Christmas shop because it’s a chance to get more of our students involved - and it’s a perfect way of embedding English and maths.’ In Debut Restaurant proper, bookings have been brisk to say the least, but there might just be a few spaces available, if you’re quick!

The decoration of Debut has become quite the talking point, year on year, with Alan saying: ‘People come not just for lunch but to see how we’ve decorated it,’ before adding, ‘the whole thing this year is about being natural and environmentally friendly.’ Supported learners at City College will be producing gingerbread reindeer and gingerbread men, which will form the main decorations on the tree this year. Meanwhile, level two and three chefs will be producing dried citrus fruit decorations. Alan says: ‘One of the key things is getting the students to sit down together and thread the ribbons on - it’s a chance to talk about Christmas and take into consideration that for some it’s not a happy time.’ He adds: ‘They then understand it’s about putting on a show, regardless.’ As for the food and drink offer, Alan says: ‘The fresh, local turkey comes in whole, so the students learn how to bone it and use the carcass to make stock and gravy - there is no smell in the world like a proper turkey gravy. The turkeys are cooked early in the morning and served freshly carved.’ He adds: ‘Lunchtime is very much a traditional Christmas lunch experience, whereas the evening is more of a fine dining version, so, for example, the sprouts might be a purée that will be beautifully spread around the plate or they could be done in breadcrumbs, like crispy bon-bons.’ Plus, he adds: ‘We’ll get new wines in, specifically for the coming season – and this year students will have a new challenge as we’re going to be putting together Christmas cocktails: they will be going round the restaurant with a trolley and preparing the cocktails in front of the guests so it’s bringing that element of table theatre.’ Alan has been in the industry all his working life and could, understandably, be a bit jaded at the prospect of the season ahead. But he says: ‘Since I’ve been at the college I’ve approached it from a completely different angle, by getting the students involved. And they really enjoy it.’

Curriculum Programme Manager Joe Mulhall has this update: WEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE GOT LOTS of enthusiastic new students here in the Hotel School, and are busy teaching the new curriculum models, which involves newly designed technical qualifications to professional standards. And weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve just had an exciting period such as catering for more than 1000 guests at the annual graduation ceremony at Norwich Cathedral and, of course, Halloween where the students have enjoyed making a range of spooky goodies. And now Christmas is fast approaching and, as usual, the Hotel School looks forward to celebrating the festive period with a whole host of exciting food items prepared and cooked by our students.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

C hrigstmas ifts

SCR C H R I S ATC H IN G YO UR TM N O F U AS PR ESE N T H E A D FO R RT H ER IDE AS . D E L IG H F E A S T N O R F - LO O K OL T E D TO H E L P ! K IS

FOOD AND DRINK gifts are an increasingly popular option, with locally sourced artisan goodies even more of a treat. Regular readers will know that we spend our days seeking out and writing about East Anglian produce so hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our choice. Plus, of course, a few irresistible gadgets and gizmos.

O T H ER COLOURS AVAILA BLE

Great Value

WHERE TO BUY

01. Smeg toaster, £149, Hughes, www.hughes.co.uk 02. Croft copper fondue, £85, John Lewis, www.johnlewis.com 03. Stuart Gardiner Design ‘Guides to pairing Herbs & Spices with food' tea towels, £10 each or £18 for the pair, www.stuartgardiner.com 04. Festive set of 2 mugs, £15, Debenhams, www.debenhams.com 05. Le Creuset Marine 24cm casserole, £199, House of Fraser, intu Chapelfield, www.intu.co.uk 06. Adnams Rye Malt Whisky, £44.95, Adnams, www.adnams.co.uk

CONTINUES OVERLEAF

Refilla

ble

08 07

THREE PACK*

*Three different flavours

11 12 07. Artificer’s Gin, a refillable London Dry Gin made from a very old classic gin recipe with a delicate twist of rich orange citrus, available from Reno Wine, Wymondham, for £32.95 or when refilled just £28.95, www.renowine.co.uk 08. Robert Welch knife block, £185, Looses Cookshop, Norwich, www.loosescookshop.co.uk 09. Countryside Kitchen: Farm, Food, Fork (77 recipes that use British seasonal ingredients, as well as profiles on farmers and facts about food and farming. Produced by the NFU), £15.95, plus P&P, www.shop.countrysideonline.co.uk 10. Norfolk Raider Cider gift pack of ciders, £12, White House Farm Shop, Norwich, www.norwich-pyo.co.uk 11. Culinary Concepts bee cruet set, £34.95, John Lewis, www.johnlewis.com 12. Macarons & More Cookery School Voucher, £140, www.macaronsandmore.com

05 40

16 18

13. Black Shuck Blush Gin, £40; Black Shuck Sloe Gin Truffles, £12.50; Black Shuck Original Gin, £35; Black Shuck Blush Gin and glass gift pack, £32; Black Shuck Liqueurs, £20 and Black Shuck Original Gin glass gift pack, £30, Jarrolds, www.jarrold.co.uk and www.thenorfolksloecompany.com 14. Resin heart bottle stop £12, Oliver Bonas, visit www.oliverbonas.com 15. Burgon and Ball Gregory and The Pecks budgie tin, £14.99, Earsham Hall, www.earshamhall.co.uk 16. Strattons Hotel Afternoon Tea for two vouchers, £31, (including for a special Peter Rabbit themed afternoon tea in January 2018), Swaffham, www.strattonshotel.com 17. Diamond cut cocktail shaker, £17.50, Marks and Spencer, www.marksandspencer.com 18. Farmers, from The Norfolk range, £49, English Whisky Co., www.englishwhisky.co.uk 19. Lacons Brewery gift pack of beers including Affinity, Legacy and Encore, £18, www.lacons.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

DEB FIND US O ENH PPOSIT AM E S THE LARGEST SELECTIOn OF CooKING & BAKING GIFTS In NoRFoLK LOOSEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COOKSHOP, ORFORD YARD, RED LION STREET, NORWICH NR1 3TB T: 01603 230505

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Call for details on how to order

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F O

W ’s

HARLING ROAD, ROUDHAM, NORFOLK NR16 2QW

01.

02.

01. THE ENGLISH – ORIGINAL £36.99 Aged to perfection in specially selected Bourbon Casks. An unpeated, easy-drinking single malt whisky 02. THE ENGLISH – SMOKY £36.99 Aged to perfection in specially selected casks. A peated (45ppm) single malt whisky with a lovely waft of smoke on the palate - an ideal alternative for the Islay fan 03. GIFT PACK – ORIGINAL & 2 GLASSES £29.99 One 200ml bottle of The English Original in a gift box with two of our nosing glasses

www.englishwhisky.co.uk

01953 717939 info@englishwhisky.co.uk

04. THE NORFOLK FARMERS £49.00 A totally new product from St George’s, this is a very unique and special single grain whisky, made from 8 different grains 03.

04.

y ra

- also available on our website

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Find the perfect gift this Christmas at St. George’s Distillery

OU T NOW

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COME & TRY SOME SCRUMPTIOUS

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XM AS:

delicious steamed puddings*

* Syrup, Spotted Dick, Sticky Toffee, Chocolate & Ale, Christmas Pudding, Treacle & Walnut and Marmalade

Proper English Puddings

“Ah, what an excellent thing is an English pudding!’’

www.puddeng.com

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MY LIFE ON A PLATE

JUSTIN KETT

S The wan

La ve n at h

JUSTIN KETT, HEAD CHEF AT THE SWAN AT LAVENHAM HOTEL & SPA, TELLS US THAT HIS SECOND CHOICE OF CAREER WOULD BE AS A DOG TRAINER

To book an overnight stay at The Swan at Lavenham Hotel & Spa call 01787 247477 or visit www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk

ho are you and where do you work? My name is Justin Kett and I am Head Chef at the 15th century Swan Hotel & Spa in the heart of the small Suffolk town of Lavenham, which is a member of the TA Hotel Collection. I am 36 years old and the proud father of an adorable seven month old daughter, Millie.

How long have you been there? I have worked as a Head Chef for the TA Hotel Collection for eight years; firstly, at The Brudenell, the Swanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sister hotel situated on the seafront at Aldeburgh, but the last six years at The Swan. Where were you before? Before joining the TA Hotel Collection, I worked as Sous-Chef at the renowned Castle Hotel in Taunton, Somerset, which then had a coveted Michelin Star and four AA Rosettes for its outstanding

food. My passion has always been to maximise the use of local, seasonal produce, wherever I have worked. Where did you train? I started my training at Lowestoft College before moving to The Swan Hotel in Southwold, then onto the nearby Randolph Hotel at Reydon. I furthered my knowledge by travelling around the world before landing at the Castle Hotel in Taunton. Finally arriving back in Suffolk with the TA Hotel Collection.

Who has inspired you? Chefs who have been the greatest inspiration to me include Richard Guest, from Taunton’s Castle Hotel, due to his passion for British flavours, and Gary Rhodes as he showcases British produce. What is your favourite ingredient? Local Suffolk venison – a prestigious ingredient which can be easily overlooked. We source ours from the award winning Lavenham Butchers, just across the High Street from The Swan, who have assisted us in running venison butchery masterclasses, which are followed by game dinners for our guests. Got a favourite gadget? I wouldn’t be without an electronic dehydrator. They can be used to preserve fresh fruit, vegetables, herbs and even fish and meat by removing their moisture content. As no cooking is needed, all the flavour and nutritional benefits are locked in – sometimes the flavour is even intensified. They’re an invaluable piece of kit and offer the opportunity to make healthier versions of crisps and other dishes.

Where do you like to eat out in the region? I’m always keen to see how other chefs are making use of East Anglia’s local produce. Two places where I particularly enjoy dining out at the moment are Pea Porridge in Bury in St Edmunds, where menus are influenced by seasonal produce, and the Bildeston Crown, another former 15th century coaching inn. What would you be doing if you were not a chef? My second choice of career would be a dog trainer. I have always had a fondness for animals and in particular dogs. A concern is the number of badly trained dogs, and those who have had little, or no training, yet their owners blame them for their misdemeanours. At home we currently have two 10-yearold cocker spaniels, Bear and Sprocket. What's your foodie prediction for the year ahead? With the ever-growing interest in eating ‘the right’ food to maximise nutrition, I am finding that our guests are seeking more raw ingredients and less complex, stripped back dishes - a trend,which, I believe, will increase over the next year or so.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

RECIPE OVERLEAF

What is your signature dish at this time of year? We change our menus with the seasons to take advantage of the best produce available. At this time of year, we offer one of my favourite signature dishes, venison with autumnal vegetables. It’s on the menu now in our Gallery restaurant but we have also included the recipe for you to try at home.

What do you like doing when you're not cooking? Spending time with my daughter Millie and wife, Kairi, who also works for the TA Hotel Collection. Most of our holidays are currently spent in Kairi’s home country of Estonia but previously my travels have taken me around the world – twice! I like to keep fit by running and have taken part in two marathons to help raise funds for the RNLI and British Heart Foundation.

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RECIPE FROM JUSTIN KETT

Venison & autumn vegetables INGREDIENTS 640g of venison loin; 4 medium sized carrots; 4 parsnips; 250ml of pre-prepared gravy (warmed); 1kg of Désirée potatoes; 100ml of double cream; 75g of cabbage leaves; 75g of spinach leaves; 1 shallot; butter; vegetable oil; salt and pepper

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METHOD Pre-heat roasting dish with a small amount of oil in the oven at 180ºC (170ºC fan oven or gas mark 5). Peel parsnips, cut into quarters, remove core, season and roast in the oven until tender and golden for about 30 minutes. To make the carrot purée: peel carrots and grate into a pan then peel and finely slice the shallot and add to the carrot, allow to cook in a little butter and water until soft, then blitz to a purée, adding salt and pepper with some extra butter. Keep warm. To make the potato mash: peel potatoes and bring to the boil then allow to simmer until soft, drain, then add cream and butter, season and mash together.

Keep warm. To wilt the greens: heat 10g of butter in a pan, when it starts to sizzle add the cabbage and spinach leaves. Add a little water, season and toss until the greens wilt. Trim the venison loin, heat a little vegetable oil in a hot pan and seal both sides of the meat. Add a knob of butter and place in a dish in a pre-heated oven at 170ºC (160ºC fan or gas mark 4) for around 5 minutes. To serve; place a quenelle of the mash potato just off the centre of the plate; place the wilted greens and carrot purée alongside and put the venison on top, serve the parsnips down the side and finish with the heated gravy

LET THEM EAT CAKE.

OUR REGULAR FREE FROM RECIPE WRITER SARA MATTHEWS OFFERS US AN AUTUMNAL HOTPOT AND A KILLER CAKE! INGREDIENTS 3 large sweet potatoes, spiralised; 1 large onion, chopped; 150g of fresh tomatoes, chopped; 1 red pepper, diced; 2 cloves of garlic, crushed; 1 large carrot, diced; 1 tin haricot beans, drained; 2tbsp of tomato purée; 1tbsp of gf yeast extract (I use Meridian); tin or carton of chopped tomatoes; 1tsp of paprika; 1/2 -1tsp of dried chilli flakes; 2tbsp of rapeseed oil; couple of sprigs of fresh rosemary, chopped; small handful of torn basil leaves; salt and pepper to taste; juice of 1/2 lime

[

[Serves 4-6

SWEET POTATO HOTPOT This sweet potato hotpot is a twist on the traditional. I love sweet potatoes. Not only are they delicious and sweet, but they are also a rich source of dietary fibre, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. I often use them in place of traditional potatoes, and sometimes in sweet dishes and cakes. This hotpot tastes great, is easy to make, is packed full of nutrition and looks fab with its spiralised topping

ANOTHER RECIPE OVERLEAF

METHOD Pre-heat the oven 180ºC/gas mark 4. In a large frying pan heat 1 tbsp of the oil and gently cook the onion and garlic on a medium heat. Add the pepper, carrot, paprika, and chilli flakes and gently cook for a further 5 minutes on a medium heat. Add the rest of the ingredients, apart from the lime and sweet potatoes, and gently simmer for 10 minutes. While this is simmering, spiralise the sweet potatoes. Place them in a bowl and drizzle with oil. Add the salt and pepper and mix to coat the potato. Place the filling into an ovenproof bowl. Squeeze over the lime juice, stir, then top with the spiralised potato and bake in the oven for 30 minutes until top starts to colour. If do not have a spiraliser, don’t worry as you can simply slice the sweet potato and layer on top. Cook for five more minutes. Serve with steamed vegetables for a main meal or I like to serve it as a light lunch with smashed avocado

RASPBERRY & CHOCOLATE CAKE Serves 10-12 INGREDIENTS For the cake 300g of plain gluten free flour; 50g of raw cacao powder (you can use cocoa powder); 1tsp of baking powder; 1tsp of bicarbonate of soda; 1/2 tsp of salt; 280g of coconut sugar; 375ml of soya milk (if preferred you can use other plant milk); 125ml of rapeseed oil; 7tbsp of seedless raspberry jam; 1tsp of vanilla extract For the topping 40ml of soya milk; 85g of dark dairy free chocolate, broken into small pieces; 60g of icing sugar; 1tbsp of maple syrup; fresh raspberries to decorate METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC/gas mk 4. Grease and line a 22cm square or round cake tin. Sift the flour, cacao, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl, then stir in the sugar and salt. In a medium saucepan heat the milk, oil, raspberry jam and vanilla extract. Whisk slowly to combine until the jam has melted. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and stir to combine. Transfer to the prepared cake tin and bake in the pre-heated oven for 45 minutes or until a skewer inserted comes out clean. Allow to cool completely before you add the topping. To make the topping, heat the soya milk in a saucepan until boiling, remove from heat, add the chocolate and stir until melted. With a spatula or large spoon, beat in the sugar and maple syrup until smooth and combined. Allow to cool for a couple of minutes then spread over the top of the cake. Top with the fresh raspberries

Your Gluten Freedom -

R E C I P E S

This is not an overly SWEE T CAKE and is always a GREAT HIT in our house, never lasting TOO LONG

Your Gluten Freedom -

TOMATO & GARLIC FARINATA

R E C I P E S

Makes 8-10 large slices

Farinata is a thin flatbread. It is traditionally eaten in Italy as a snack, like a slice of pizza, or as an accompaniment to soups and stews. It is made from garbanzo bean flour, also known as chickpea flour. The batter is flavoured with olive oil and salt, and baked in a very hot oven. The outside is crusty and crispy while the inside stays soft. It has a very earthy flavour. Here is my recipe which is flavoured with tomato and garlic INGREDIENTS 2 cups water; 11/2 cups of chickpea flour; 1tbsp of oil; 2 cloves of garlic, crushed; 4-6 sundried tomatoes, chopped; a couple of sprigs of rosemary, leaves removed and chopped; 1tsp of salt; pepper METHOD Line a baking tray with parchment, leaving a little hanging over the sides. Lightly oil. Pre-heat the oven 220ยบC/ gas mark 7. Then make the batter. In a glass or ceramic bowl, combine the flour and water, and whisk until it becomes a smooth batter. Cover with a cloth or clean tea towel, place in the fridge and allow to sit for 4-6 hours or overnight. Add the salt and oil. I use the oil from the jar of sundried tomatoes for added flavour, but you can use olive or rapeseed oil. Gently whisk to combine. Add the rosemary, garlic and pepper, and mix. Pour into the prepared tray, sprinkle over the chopped tomatoes and cook for 25-30 minutes, until the bread is firm to touch and golden in colour. Once cooked, remove from the oven and allow to cool for a couple of minutes. Remove the flat bread using the overhanging parchment. Remove the parchment, slice and serve.

SARA MATTHEWS runs Your Gluten Freedom, visit www.yourglutenfreedom.co.uk www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Rick Stein

C E L E B R I T Y

C O O K B O O K

As his new TV series starts and the accompanying cookbook is published, celebrity chef RICK STE IN heads to Mexico and California to tempt us with big, bold flavours BRITISH CHEF

Rick Stein has entertained and educated us with his culinary travels, most recently with his long weekends around Europe. Now he brings all that enthusiasm and trusted expertise to the fresh, flavourful food of Mexico and California. Starting in San Francisco and Baja California, and working his way down to the southernmost tip of Mexico, Rick Stein cooks, eats and experiences Mexican food at its very best and most diverse. The 70-year-old is recreating a journey he first made back in the 1960s so expect to hear lots of nostalgic tales of how the countries have changed over the years and how the food has developed. It will be classic Rick â&#x20AC;&#x201C; vibrant dishes, travel tips and a dash of art and culture thrown in for good measure. Packed with vegetables, centred around fresh ingredients and always high on flavour, Mexican and California cooking is naturally healthy and satisfying - from the incredible seafood of the north Pacific coast and the mole of Oaxaca, to the spices and salsas of Yucatan and Quintana Roo. With the trademark beautiful photography and evocative design of Rick's books, this cookbook will encourage anyone to try out the bold food of these sunshine states. RICK appears at Jarrold's in Norwich on November 6 but the event is sold out. Visit www.jarrold.co.uk for returns

M E X IC O T H E R O AisDheTdO by BBC Books at £26.

ein is publ arts soon by Rick St on series st The televisi

CHAR-GRILLED AUBERGINE FETA ROLLS serves 4 as a starter

INGREDIENTS 2 aubergines; 4tbsp of olive oil; 175g of feta cheese; 175g of ricotta cheese; a small handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped; 5–6 rasps of freshly grated nutmeg; 10 turns of black peppermill; 11/2 tbsp of capers, chopped To serve 100g of mixed rocket, watercress and baby spinach; juice of 1/2 lemon; 2tbsp of extra virgin olive oil; seeds from 1/2 pomegranate; salt and pepper

METHOD Cut the aubergines lengthwise into slices about 5mm thick. You should get about 6 slices from each aubergine. Brush the aubergine slices on both sides with oil and grill them in batches on a barbecue or griddle pan for 3–4 minutes on each side until browned, tender and pliable. Set them aside. Mash the feta and ricotta in a bowl with a fork and add the parsley, nutmeg and black pepper. Stir in the capers. Spoon a generous tablespoon of filling on to the wide end of each aubergine slice and roll it up like a Swiss roll. To serve, arrange the salad leaves on a platter, dress them with lemon juice and olive oil, then season. Arrange the aubergine rolls on top, seam-side down, and decorate them with pomegranate seeds. Serve at room temperature as a starter or part of a mezze

MORE RECIPES OVERLEAF www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Rick Stein

C E L E B R I T Y

C O O K B O O K

INGREDIENTS 2 butter-basted turkey breast joint (about 650g); 10g of butter For the marinade 1 pasilla chilli, seeds shaken out; 3 cloves of garlic; 1/2 small onion, chopped; 2tsp of cider vinegar; 1tsp of salt; 30g of butter; 1 heaped tsp of chipotles en adobo; 5g of achiote paste; 25g of cashew nuts; 1tbsp of dark brown sugar

TURKEY BREAST WITH PASILLA Serves 3-4 CHIPOTLE CHILLI BUTTER SAUCE

METHOD Tear the pasilla chilli into 4 or 5 pieces and put them in a bowl with 200ml of just-boiled water. Leave to soak for 20 minutes. Put the chilli with its soaking water and the remaining marinade ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth. Pour one-third of this mixture over the turkey breast and rub it in all over. Cover and leave the turkey to marinate in the fridge for 1–2 hours. Preheat the oven to 180°C/fan 160°C. Put the turkey in a roasting tin and add 70ml of water. Roast for 45 minutes, then put the butter on top of the turkey and roast for another 5 minutes. Check the internal temperature of the turkey with a probe if you have one – it should be 70°C. Baste the turkey with the pan juices, then transfer it to a warm plate, cover with foil and leave it to rest for 5–10 minutes. Add 100ml of water to the juices in the tin and deglaze over a medium heat. Add the remaining marinade and stir to combine. Simmer for 5–10 minutes, adding a little more water if the sauce looks too thick, then pass the sauce through a sieve. Slice the turkey on the bias and serve with sauce spooned over and some Mexican red rice or roast potatoes

Serves 4

MEXICAN PRAWN COCKTAIL WITH TOMATO, AVOCADO CHIPOTLE

INGREDIENTS 375g of medium prawns, cooked, peeled and deveined; 2 avocados, stoned, peeled and diced, then tossed in lime juice to prevent browning; 2 tomatoes, chopped; small handful of coriander, chopped; 1 little gem lettuce, shredded; lime wedges For the sauce to serve 275ml of tomato juice; 4tbsp of extra virgin olive oil; juice of 1 large lime; 2 cloves of garlic, peeled; 1/2 red onion, roughly chopped; 2tsp of chilli sauce; 1tsp of Worcestershire sauce; 2 heaped tbsp of chipotles en adobo; 1/4 tsp of salt; 8 turns of black peppermill

METHOD To make the sauce, put the tomato juice, oil, lime juice, garlic, onion, chilli sauce, Worcestershire sauce and chipotles en adobe in a blender or food processor. Season with salt and pepper, then blend until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to assemble the dish. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready to eat, mix the prawns with the sauce, diced avocado, tomatoes and three-quarters of the chopped coriander. Divide the shredded lettuce between four chilled cocktail or sundae glasses. Top with the prawn mixture, then sprinkle with the remaining coriander. Serve with lime wedges

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Books

FOR

Cooks

Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our regular round up of the latest cookbooks on the market including one to get you making your own Christmas presents TO P PICK

HANDMADE GIFTS FROM THE KITCHEN by Alison Walker ÂŁ14.99

Here is a selection of delicious, edible gift ideas to make and give. There are 100 recipes for yummy treats from fudge to liqueurs, macarons, after dinner mints and red onion marmalade - with tips on wrapping, too. It will obviously help you make some highly personal gifts for friends and family this Christmas but it is also a great gift to give. Alison is the food and drink editor of the leading lifestyle magazine, Country Living, and this is a gorgeous book for any coffee table top, with wonderful accompanying photography by Tara Fisher. And imagine just how smug you will feel when you hand over such personal gifts this festive period - far better than anything shop bought!

Cookbooks

ROASTING TRAY MAGIC by Sue Quinn £15

EAST BY WEST

THE SPORTSMAN

£25

£29.95

by Jasmine Hemsley

by Stephen Harris

Jasmine Hemsley of the Hemsley and Hemsley sister act, has created 130 recipes adopting the ayurvedic principles of eating to nourish, sustain and repair. Her new book is designed to help you find out the best time to eat and sleep for your body type and it also provides guidance on foods and practices to keep you feeling great throughout the day.

The Sportsman is a seaside pub in Whitstable, Kent. Following chef Stephen Harris' tenure it has earned a Michelin star, become one of the most sought after restaurants to dine out at, and put Whitstable on the culinary map. Harris' style of cooking is pared back, he allows the coastal surroundings to influence his menu and this, his first book, is a combination of recipes and notes that epitomises great British cooking.

Don 't miss

DI AR Y DA TE S

THE JARROLD

Sue Quinn demonstrates the versatility and ease of cooking from cakes and snacks to gratins, risottos and roasts with just a roasting tin. For fast and straight-forward meals, there are 70 recipes to provide economical cooking in an imaginative way.

November 17

LITERARY LUNCH and presenta tion of the East Anglian Book Awards 201 7 takes place at Top of the Terrace, Norwich City Football Club, 12.30pm. Tickets, which include guest speakers and a two -course lunch, are £27.50 and available from Customer Services on the second floor.

THE FAT LOSS PLAN by Joe Wicks £16.99

Body coach Joe Wicks can help with any and all New Year healthy lifestyle resolutions. For those serious about turning over a healthy eating leaf, he has sample weekly plans and ingredients lists with 100 recipes and four easy to follow workouts.

Norfolk Mead Hotel -

P R O M O T I O N

GAME ON

The GAME SEASON is here so do try this wonderful partridge dish from Damien Woollard at THE NORFOLK MEAD HOTEL

FROM THE MENU - PHEASANT (LEFT) & VENISON (RIGHT)

www.norfolkmead.co.uk

DAMIEN WOOLLARD

VISIT

HE GAME season has begun and menus, especially in Norfolk, are packed with enticing pheasant, partridge and woodcock dishes. Damien Woollard, head chef at The Norfolk Mead Hotel, a charming country house hotel by the river in Coltishall, is a huge fan and offers us this partridge dish which can be roasted on the bone and carved to order, with all bones and the carcass used for sauces. He also serves up smoked pheasant as a starter, and venison. Damien, in his mid 20s, started his culinary journey in the kitchens of the Saracen’s Head in Wolterton, before moving to The King’s Head in Coltishall and has enjoyed spells at The Wildebeest in Stoke Holy Cross, near Norwich, and in the Channel Islands. • The Norfolk Mead Hotel has developed over the last five years by expanding their kitchens, bedrooms and cottages, and building the Garden Room events space and treatment rooms to provide an ambience of calm and serenity for all their customers. It also holds a Two Rosette Award for fine dining.

[Serves 4[ METHOD Boulangerie Potatoes Cook the thinly sliced Maris Piper potatoes until soft. Add 300ml of the stock to half of the sliced onions, add two bay leaves and simmer for 10 minutes. Take the stock mixture off heat and alternate layers of the stock mixture and potatoes into a small oven proof serving dish. Place parchment paper on top of the potatoes and put in oven at 190Â°C Red Cabbage Whilst your Boulangerie is cooking, place 200ml of red wine, 200ml of port, 2tbsp of red currant jelly, 100g of brown sugar and 1/2 tsp of mixed spice, into a pan and simmer. Add the red cabbage to the simmering liquid, followed by the diced apple and sultanas. Cook on a slow heat until the cabbage is tender Partridges Heat up a frying pan. Season the partridges, and stuff the carcasses with the thyme. Seal the partridges evenly in the hot pan. Remove the partridges from the pan and add the sliced onions. Place the partridges on top of the onions and add 300ml of stock. Place the remaining sliced onion, stock and partridge into a casserole dish and place in the oven with the Boulangerie for 16 minutes Pears and Sprouts Re-heat the same frying pan. Add the sprouts and pears in a pan with a splash of oil. Colour on one side, then flip. Add 6g of the butter and 100ml of the stock. Place into an oven proof dish. Place in the oven for 8 minutes. After 5 minutes, add the chestnuts to warm through

ROASTED PARTRIDGE, BOULANGERIE POTATOES, BRAISED RED CABBAGE, ROASTED PEAR, SPROUT with CHESTNUT, PORT JUS INGREDIENTS 2-4 partridges, dependent on the size of the bird; 1 red cabbage, finely sliced; 800ml of partridge or chicken stock; 4 large peeled Maris Piper potatoes, into water; 2 large thinly sliced Maris Piper potatoes, into water; 4 onions, sliced; 2 pears, halved and cored; 250g of sprouts, halved; 1 jar of red currant jelly; 100g of fresh chestnut; 100g of brown sugar; 500ml of Port; 200ml of red wine; 2 bay leaves; 1/2 tsp of mixed spice; 1tsp of sherry vinegar; 1 apple, peeled and diced; 30g of sultanas; 1tbsp of tomato paste; 60g of butter; 1 bunch of thyme; 1 parchment paper

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If timed correctly, everything should be ready at the same time. Remove them all from the oven and set aside Port Jus Heat a saucepan, when hot, pour in the remaining Port and reduce by half. Strain juices from the partridge into the reduction. Reduce again by a third. Whisk in the tomato paste and 2tbsp of red currant jelly. Add the thyme and simmer for 5 minutes

Turkeys F E A T U R E

WITH CHRISTMAS nearly upon us, it’s time to starting talking turkey. Okay, so you might be considering goose this year, or even a nut roast, but turkey does remain the traditional Christmas dinner carvery of choice, and what better county to source yours from than Norfolk, namesake of the Norfolk Black, the oldest turkey breed in the UK?

TURKEY TiME IT’S TIME TO ORDER THAT TURKEY! HERE IS EMMA OUTTEN’S GUIDE ON WHERE TO BUY THE PERFECT BIRD

GREAT GROVE POULTRY

MORTON'S TRADITIONAL TASTE

Here are a few suggestions...

PEELE’S BLACK TURKEYS

MORTON’S TRADITIONAL TASTE

Morton’s, based at Hall Farm in Skeyton, near Norwich, believe that the best things come to those who wait, which is E FAVOURIT why they put such a strong focus on the slow-growth of their turkeys. Their young turkeys can often be found in the trees (they’re woodland birds after all!) and it’s this sort of environment that makes them happy and healthy. As a third-generation farming family, they pride themselves on their traditional values. This allows for their Norfolk Black and Bronze turkeys to be amazingly succulent, while retaining a classic, gamey taste. There’s always plenty for leftovers – if you can resist! Final order date is December 19; they offer all-day delivery or before 1pm delivery on December 22; you can also choose pre-Christmas delivery if you need your turkey sooner – just select your preferred date (any Tuesday to Thursday) at the checkout. Finally, you can also pickup your order from the farm. Farm pickup is available on December 23 and 24. www.freerangeturkeys.co.uk

GREAT GROVE POULTRY

Great Grove Traditional Free Range Poultry, based at Whews Farm, Caston, near Attleborough, is a small family farm that FAVOURITE specialises in producing quality turkeys and geese purely for Christmas. Their wood and grassland areas are used to rear the birds in a stress free environment, allowing them to roam free in their natural habitat. Using an age old method of farming, they allow their traditional Norfolk turkeys and geese plenty of time to grow to maturity, giving a far superior quality bird with natural gamey flavours. Everything is prepared on the farm, graded and game hung in large chillers (for a maximum of 10 days) to make them exceptionally tender, adding all the natural flavours that this type of production ensures. As for last order dates, Steve Childerhouse, who runs Great Grove Poultry, says: ‘We just keep going until they are all gone!’ www.greatgrovepoultry.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Rookery Farm in Thuxton, near Norwich, has been home of the original Norfolk Black turkey since 1880. Then, in the 1950s, Frank Peele started a breeding programme to protect the true Norfolk Black, which fourth generation James Graham still follows today. Together with hatching the chicks they also grow their own corn to feed the turkeys while they free range outside, giving them that wonderful flavour. www.peeles-blackturkeys.co.uk

NORFOLK BLACK TURKEYS

Simon and Karen O'Malley established The Black Turkey Company Ltd in 2008. Since that time, the farming family have relocated to Chestnut Farm in Money Hill, Hingham. Recognised as a slow maturing breed, Norfolk black turkeys are hatched on the farm in the spring and naturally reared to full maturity. They are hand plucked and hung for ten days to enhance their wonderful flavour. www.norfolkblackturkey.co.uk

GODWICK TURKEYS

Godwick Turkeys, based near Tittleshall (near King’s Lynn), is a family run business specialising in producing quality free range turkeys for Christmas for the past 50 years. Nowadays, all Robert Garner’s Norfolk Black and Bronze turkeys are dry-plucked by hand and hung for 14 days in the traditional way to guarantee a rich tasting, succulent meat. www.godwickturkeys.com

B U T C H E R S

TALKING TURKEY

IT IS THE TIME OF YEAR TO GET YOUR CHRISTMAS MEAT ORDERS IN WITH OUR FAVOURITE BUTCHERS

CARVING TIPS Before cooking - removing the wishbone makes the carving much easier as you can

cut larger, neater slices from the breast. If you lift the skin from the neck you should be able to see the meat underneath. Cut a little of the skin away if that helps you to see better. Poke your finger into the cavity and feel around for the V-shaped wishbone. Use a small sharp knife to cut around the wishbone, then grasp it with your hand and pull it out firmly, taking care not to damage the meat. After cooking and resting, with a sharp knife, cut the skin between leg and breast. Bend leg outwards and cut straight through the joint, removing the whole leg. Repeat on the other side. If the turkey is properly cooked, the legs will fall away easily. Do the same with each wing, leaving the breast meat intact.

all

plie

NOW & TU F fro AVA ESTI RKE ILA VE YS m qu BLE ME ali T ATS ty loc O OR al D su p E R

s the festive season looms, your local butcher is ready to receive orders for all your Christmas meats, whether it be sausages, game or that essential turkey. The choice they offer seems to be more comprehensive than ever this year, as many offer goose and also prepared dishes for those nights when you want to entertain and need a little help! As you'd imagine, turkey is all important so here we offer cooking and carving techniques to get you through this busy cooking period.

COOKING TIPS To ensure your turkey is completely cooked, insert a clean skewer into the thickest part of the thigh. Leave for at least 1 minute, if the juices run clear the turkey is cooked, if they run pinkish, return to the oven and cook for a little longer. Allow to rest (which makes the meat easier to carve), lightly covered with foil in a warm place for at least 20-30 minutes before carving and serving. Alternatively, test with a temperature probe, which must be 72Â°C or above in the thickest part of the breast for 2 minutes.

FAMILY OWNED

SINCE 1987

closely with the best local farmers to ensure our meat exceeds expectation! Working

CHRISTMAS

TRADITIONAL FAMILY-OWNED & RUN BUTCHER SHOP

Supplying meat, sourced directly from local farms, ensuring quality and traceability. award winning handmade pies & pastries from Clarkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Farm Kitchen, Hevingham 73 MARKET PLACE, SWAFFHAM PE37 7AQ 01760 721791 SHOP@IMPSONBUTCHERS.CO.UK

Orders for Christmas turkeys and meats now being taken. All from local suppliers

B U T C H E RY

Superior quality flavoursome meats, all locally sourced and fully traceable, for our loyal customers and catering businesses

FA R M K I T C H E N

A delicious range of award-winning meat pies, ready meals, and indulgent sweet and savoury treats, all made on site LOW L A N E FA R M , HEV I NGH A M , NORW ICH N R 10 5QY 01603 75 4 233 SHOP@CL A R K E SBU T CHERY.C O.UK

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Christmas is coming!

We are ready to take your Christmas orders!

Coxfords Butchers

PROUDLY NORFOLK All of our produce is sourced locally

RISTMAS AT CH

COXFORDS

Guild Street Walsingham NR22 6BU 01328 821877 Open 7 days

Farms Shop www.walsingham.co

Norfolk Lavender Lynn Road Heacham PE31 7JE 01485 570002 Open 7 days

@walsinghamfarmshop @walsingfarmshop +walsinghamfarmsshop @walsinghamfarmsshop

Pop in and and see us to discuss your Turkey & Game, Geese, Duck, Pigs in Blankets & Hamper orders

NowtakingChristmasorders 11 MARKET PLACE, AYLSHAM T: 01263 732280

fresh meat & poultry

XMA S TUR KEYS & MEATS - ORDERS NOW BEIN

G TAK EN

We only stock the best beef, lamb, pork and poultry available PADDOCKS BUTCHERY & DELI STORES Church Farm,Norwich Road, Hethersett NR9 3AS 01603 812437 Paddock Farm Shop, Norwich Road, Mulbarton NR14 8JT 01508 578259 The Street, Bunwell, NR16 1AB 01953 789708

CATERING DIVISION Wood view Farm, Church Lane, Wicklewood, NR18 9QH, 01953 602470

www.thepaddocksbutchery.co.uk

THE GENERAL DEFINITION of a craft brewery is ‘a brewery that produces small amounts of beer, typically much smaller than large-scale corporate breweries, and is independently owned.’ This is a good start towards understanding the effort a ‘small’ brewery might put into the quality of its beer, hence being referred to as ‘craft’, but does that wholly cover it? What do you think of when you hear the term ‘craft beer’? You may think of tremendously hoppy beers, usually carbonated, with funky names and identities which have very interesting flavours and aromas, some almost as fruity as well-known soft drinks. Although these two descriptions of ‘craft beer’ come at it from different angles, neither of them is incorrect when it comes to what we’re seeing with beer. Think of it like this:

04.

This trend travelled around the world, where people were looking for something different in their food and drink products. At around the same time, the UK government in 2002 announced ‘Progressive Beer Duty’, which gave tax breaks to brewers below a certain size. The number of small brewers in the UK then began to grow, from just over 600 in 2002, to an incredible 1704 in 2017.

05.

This rise in the number of independent breweries has given the market a boost, coupled with trends in flavour diversity, the popularity and availability of hops from around the world and differing and evolving consumer taste buds.

01.

To summarise, there is not yet an official definition of ‘craft beer’ in the UK, but it is certainly agreed that it is beer of good quality, brewed by a brewery which is independently owned - not on a huge scale - which acts authentically and truly cares about its beer. In essence craft is just good beer cask, keg, bottle, can or otherwise - and that’s how we like it.

‘Craft’ is a term frequently used to define a product made from locally sourced or artisanal ingredients, is often hand-made and has care and thought put into it.

02.

‘Craft beer’ as a trend arguably started in the USA, but is a term which has grown at an astounding rate in recent years, with the rise in numbers of small scale breweries in not just the US, but in Europe and the rest of the world too.

Here at Lacons, we define all of our ales as ‘craft ale’ due to how they’re produced, and the love we put into making them. Plus we have our own range of craft beer - from our misted India Pale Ale, Quell, to the refreshingly light Steam Lager.

03.

These small US ‘craft’ breweries started focusing on individual flavours and unique styles of beer, creating something more than the ‘usual fizz’ they were used to. They dug out old recipes, went on the hunt for new hops, and generally made beer more exciting.

THE RISE AND RISE OF CRAFT BEER HAS BEEN SOMETHING OF A REVOLUTION IN THE BEER WORLD BUT WHAT EXACTLY IS IT? GREAT YARMOUTH-BASED BREWERY LACONS EXPLAINS

Lacons -

VISIT

Meet the Lacons team as we hit the road for some very special events. Firstly we are championing good beer, fine sausages and live music at The Lawyer in Norwich for the Fine City Blues event on October 29. Expect a tap takeover, Lacons ale infused sausages and some great live blues from 12 - 7pm. Then on October 31, our head brewer Will Wood is the guest speaker at the Quaffers Guild taking place at The Rose Inn, Norwich, where you can expect beer and food matching and a great informative night with like-minded beer drinkers. Finally, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be launching our seasonal ale - heritage brew Old Ale. First brewed in 1963, Old Ale 4.1% is delightfully malty with a chestnut hue and slight undertones of cherry and plum.

Coming soon

www.lacons.co.uk

COMING UP:

B E E R

PUT A CORK IN IT

Andy Newman, who has pulled a few corks in his time, examines whether the natural wine bottle stopper has had its day Three wines Andy has enjoyed this month

Errazuriz Max Reserva Chardonnay, Aconcagua Valley, 2016 (Sainsburys, £12) A mellow, creamy and complex Chardonnay from Chile, offering up citrus and fresh stone fruit on the nose, and a refreshing and long finish on the palate. Its restraint is more redolent of Old World Chardonnay, and all the elements are excellently melded.

Trivento Malbec Private Reserve, Mendoza, 2015 (Tesco, £8) Unlike many Argentinian Malbecs (especially at this end of the price spectrum), this is not the usual fruit-driven, one-dimensional style, but delivers complexity, elegant tannins, and an appetising mix of fruit and herbs.

Cono Sur Reserva Especial Pinot Noir, San Antonio Valley, 2015 (Morrisons, £10) From one of Chile’s big brands, this is almost Burgundian Pinot Noir, with bramble fruit and spice on the nose, and a great balance of fruit, tannins and acidity on the palate, with a judicious touch of oak. At the time of writing this was on offer at Morrisons at £20 for three bottles, but even at its full price, it’s great value.

Corks -

W I N E

uninteresting - these are the bottles which most wine KNOW THAT it’s not rational, but I can’t drinkers feel disappointed by, without necessarily be alone in being slightly disappointed thinking their wine is off. when a sommelier brings a bottle of wine At higher concentrations, TCA makes a wine smell and to the table and ceremoniously unscrews taste mouldy, with a smell sometimes compared to wet the cap and pours the wine. There is newspapers, or damp cement. It had become such a big something about the whole process of problem by the mid-2000s that whole wine-producing cutting the foil, carefully screwing in the countries were turning their back on cork. New Zealand corkscrew, and pulling the cork with a was among the first to adopt the screwsoft ‘plop’ that makes me cap wholesale, and it looked like natural want to drink what is in closures were on their way out. the bottle. Unscrewing what looks like Faced with the potential decimation a lemonade bottle top just doesn’t instil of one of their major industries, Portugal, the same sense of anticipation. where most wine corks come from, In my job, I pull a lots of corks, and so started fighting back. Hi-tech sensor I know more than most what a lottery machines were invented which could this natural way of sealing a bottle is. weed out TCA-tainted corks before they Some commentators reckon that one in went anywhere near a bottle, and while ten bottles is tainted by its cork; I think this has not entirely eliminated cork taint, that is an overestimate, but nevertheless it has vastly reduced its prevalence. there can be no denying the dismay For the average wine drinker, does it we all feel when we are faced with a is tainted by its really matter how their bottle is sealed, bottle which smells – and tastes – musty, other than for the brief moment of mouldy and rancid. ceremony when it is opened? The answer To be fair, most shops are nowadays very much depends on the type of wine pretty good and replacing or refunding you are drinking. obviously corked bottles, but most For wines which are made to be consumed from the of us have faced the dilemma of confronting the wine moment they are bottled, screw-caps are just fine. They waiter about a bottle which may not smell disgusting, provide a much better chance of an untainted wine but is certainly not in tip-top condition (incidentally, (although TCA and its cousin TBA can still find their way don’t feel sorry for the hard-pressed restaurant owner onto the polythene liners used in screw-caps via wooden in these circumstances – it is the wine merchant who barrels, pallets and cellar walls). For ‘drink-youngestwill ultimately end up standing the cost of that spoiled available’, fruity white wines, they are probably the best bottle). method of closure. Given the financial risk and the potential damage to However, for wines which have already been in reputation of winemakers, we shouldn’t be surprised contact with oak, and in particular those which need that more and more are turning to alternative ways to further aging in bottle before they are ready to drink, seal that precious bottle. Just 20 years ago, fewer than no manmade closure has yet reached the efficiency of five per cent of the world’s wines were shipped with a natural cork. screw-top; nowadays that figure is more than a third. So This is all down to the process of oxidisation – fatal why are we still so wedded to the romantic notion of for a wine if over-done, but a vital part of the maturing pulling a real cork? process which mellows harsh tannins and brings Let’s look at the science first. Cork taint is caused by together all of the elements of a wine into a melded a chemical called 2,4,6-trichloroanisole, or TCA. This whole. compound forms naturally when plant phenols, chlorine These wines are often higher quality, and almost and mould interact, and it is particularly prevalent on always more expensive, than the easy-drinking, fruity tree bark – and it is the bark of the cork tree which is wines which suit a screw-cap, and that may account for harvested to give us our precious wine stoppers. the fact that corks are still seen as the ‘premium’ method TCA is not harmful to health, but at low levels it of sealing a bottle. can strip a wine of its flavour, making it taste dull and

" ten ...one in

bottles

cork

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C O M P E T I T I O N

A TASTE OF NORTH NORFOLK LIVING

VISIT

AKE NO MISTAKE, The White Horse, Brancaster Staithe, enjoys the most captivatingly beautiful views across North Norfolk’s tidal marshes. And the award-winning restaurant, led by head chef Fran Hartshorne, makes the most of shellfish from the village fishermen. After all, the conservatory restaurant and deck terrace overlook the lobster pots, oyster and mussel beds and tidal salt marsh out to Scolt Head Island and the sea beyond. This area is to be enjoyed all year around with each season bringing new elements of the coast into life. There is an atmospheric locals bar offering the best of local real ales, including their own brews from Brancaster Brewery, an eclectic wine list and lots of local gins, cocktails and more. What’s more, throughout the winter you will be welcomed by roaring fires and steaming bowls of mussels.

whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk

THIS MONTH WE’VE TEAMED UP WITH THE WHITE HORSE, BRANCASTER STAITHE, TO OFFER ONE LUCKY READER (AND A GUEST) THE CHANCE TO WIN A DINNER, BED AND BREAKFAST STAY

HOW TO ENTER

To enter our competition, simply answer the following question:

How many bedrooms does The White Horse have? Send your answer, plus your name, address and a daytime telephone number, to competitions@feastnorfolkmagazine. co.uk. You can also enter by liking and sharing the competition on our Facebook page. The prize is a stay in one of the spacious rooms at The White Horse, Brancaster Staithe, for one night, based on double occupancy, in January, February, or March 2018 (weekend nights not included). Dinner (with a bottle of house wine), bed and breakfast will be included in the prize. Terms and Conditions: Normal Feast Norfolk rules apply. The editor’s decision is final. The competition is open to those aged 18 and above. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion. Subject to availability. No cash alternative. The competition is open until November 30, 2017 when a winner will be selected at random. The winner will need to claim the prize by March 31, 2018. If you do not wish to receive further information about The White Horse please mark your entry as OPT OUT in the email subject matter.

The restaurant menu changes seasonally with daily specials, dependent upon what the village fishermen leave at the kitchen door. The view from the recently refurbished dining room is to be admired as you can watch the ebbs and flows, big blue skies and swooping birds. The White Horse has 15 ensuite bedrooms: the eight dog friendly garden bedrooms have their own terraces and are situated just yards from the coastal path. The rooms upstairs, including the ‘Room at the Top’, with its own viewing deck and telescope, offer spectacular views unrivalled along the coast. The White Horse is part of the Anglian Country Inns (ACInns) family, which in Norfolk includes The Jolly Sailors, just along the Main Road, plus The Kings Head in Letheringsett, and five further establishments in Hertfordshire. • And, don't forget to pick up an ACInns Loyalty Card when you next visit one of their establishments (or apply online), there's lots of treats to be had!

SHOP FOR :

DECANTERS! GET THE BEST OUT OF YOUR WINE BY DECANTING YOUR BOTTLE INTO ONE OF THESE GLORIOUS DECANTERS, SAYS SARAH HARDY

01.

03.

02.

05.

04.

WHERE TO BUY 01. Conundrum wine decanter, £19.99, www.prezzybox.co.uk 02. Waterford crystal decanter £240, John Lewis 03. Broste smoke glass decanter, £40, The Granary, Norwich 04. Dartington Circle Spirit decanter, £42, Jarrold’s 05. Biba Royale decanter, £40, House of Fraser, intu Chapelfield 06. Mami XL decanter in crystalline glass by Stefano Giovannoni for Alessi, £45, www.alessi.com

06.

ine Food &rW Pai ing

S T E V E

H E A R N D E N

WHAT TO DRINK WITH

CHRISTMAS LUNCH

OUR WINE EXPERT STEVE HEARNDEN SUGGESTS WINES TO ENJOY THIS FESTIVE PERIOD These wines are available from Tastebuds Wines, based at Strumpshaw Post Office (not online though). For other wines, visit www.tastebudswines.co.uk or contact steve@tastebudswines.co.uk

I HAVE JUST returned from a week’s trip to the Languedoc region of France, where I visited four of my wine makers and discussed the usual wine things. However, 2017 did create problems because of a late frost in France. Most domaines were affected with damage as high as 40 per cent in some cases, but much depended on location of the vineyards. The new wines will be excellent in quality but the quantity produced considerably reduced - the obvious knock on effect will be price increases! But we need not worry about that now, of course, as the November edition does lead us into the festive season. So, okay, is it goose or turkey for Christmas lunch? The wine needs to be chosen carefully as we can over-indulge. The Christmas meal tends to have everything thrown in, including the compulsory Brussels sprouts, and so a dry white wine, not acidic though, would be good. I think the Sauvignon Blanc from the Le Celier range would be excellent. They have named it: Les Quatre Chemins and it is the 2015 vintage. Produced in the warmer climes of Languedoc, this wine has a soft dryness to the taste, with light gooseberry and melon on the aroma and aftertaste. It is a soft, balanced, white wine, which could easily be drunk with the starter and main course, and it is £9.80. www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

However, should you be going for red meat, then go with the flow and enjoy a red wine full of fruit and spice. The Mazerac from AOP Corbieres Boutenac is perfect and a dream of a wine. I tasted it when I was there a couple of weeks ago and my tasting notes included aromas of prunes, cocoa and wood, with the taste of light blackberry and spice. The grapes (80 per cent Carignan and 20 per cent Grenache) are all hand picked and the wine is aged in oak barrels for 12 months. This wine, given the chance and the correct conditions, will last for 10 years. It is certainly a high quality wine with the reasonable price of £18.90 per bottle - it is the 2013 vintage. Allow it to breathe before drinking. I have written many times about dessert wines but, just to remind you, the real winner for me is the Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive 2008 from Michel Fonne in Alsace. Sold by the bottle at £29.50, this is excellent value for money simply because you can have a small glass of the wine with your Christmas pudding and any leftovers you can drink with Christmas cake later in the day! Vendange Tardive means late picked and so the grapes are hand picked, after the first frosts. The sugar levels of the wines are high but the taste of the wine is not cloying, rather rich, smooth honey.

PICTURE BY TONY PEREZ

BUBBLING OVER

IT’S A HARD JOB BUT WE SENT MEL COOK TO TRY OUT ONE OF THE REGULAR EVENTS AT NORWICH’S ROOFTOP GARDENS - CHAMPAGNE TASTING! LUCKY GIRL! Check out their website for future events, including regular jazz nights. Visit www.rooftopgardens.co.uk

HO COULD RESIST the chance to quaff Champagne at one of Norwich’s most in-places? Not me for one. And the chance to learn a little about this most glamorous of drinks? Well, it would have been rude not to! The evening was hosted by Simon Evetts of Taittinger Champagne and his audience was well looked after. His talk was packed with interesting facts. As each glass of Champagne was presented, Simon expertly explained what they were and how best to drink them. So we quickly picked up just a little of his vast knowledge whilst tasting three Champagnes, Brut, Rose, and the Nocturne, and we received top ups between each talk plus canapés. The Champagne House of Taittinger is based in Reims and is one of only a few still owned and run by the family whose name is on the label. Their awardwinning Champagne was created by Pierre Taittinger in 1931 and today the company

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is overseen by Pierre-Emmanual Taittinger (Pierre’s grandson) and his children Clovis and Vitalie. Chardonnay is used in high percentage during the winemaking process, from 40 per cent in the Brut Réserve Non Vintage, to 100 per cent in the prestigious Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, which creates their very individual taste. Interestingly, Taittinger uses a slow ageing process which takes place in their UNESCO listed 4th century cellars which once belonged to the Benedictine monks of the abbey of St Nicaise. Along with a history of Taittinger and hints on what to look out for whilst sampling, we also learnt a few quirky Champagne facts which are worth remembering to impress friends. Who knew there are 49 million bubbles in a bottle of Champagne? That a Champagne cork can launch from a bottle at 40 miles an hour? And that 177 feet is the record for the furthest distance covered by a flying cork! Humorous facts aside, this event was fun; the Champagne was, of course, beautiful, and the venue perfect with its wonderful views of medieval Norwich.

MY SPANiSH ADVENTURE ELAINE DAYKIN spent 10 years in the ANDALUCIAN region of SPAIN. Here she gives a flavour of the LOCAL CUISINE as well as offering a RECIPE

Elaine returned to Norfolk due to a family illness. She and Lee now run Tuffdogs Stuff, www.tuffdogsstuff.co.uk More details about staying in Andalucia are available at www.andalucia.com and www.andalucia.org

Andalucia -

T R A V E L

NORFOLK, MY HUSBAND, LEE, AND i MOVED TO THE ANDALUCiAN REGION OF SPAiN, ALONG WITH A MIXTURE OF CATS, DOGS AND A PARROT CALLED SCOOBY, IN 2007. ALTHOUGH i GREW UP IN

CITYSCAPE OF JAEN

WE WILLINGLY TOOK on an old Spanish farmhouse in the middle of nowhere to lovingly restore. In between the building nightmares, the carpentry tussles and the plumbing problems, I would very often get out and about, in the vain hope of restoring what was left of my sanity, but also to explore the local countryside and indulge in one of my hobbies - food and drink. One of my favourite restaurants in the area is Pizzeria Montealegre, situated near the town of Pozo Alcon in the Cazorla Natural Park, which is in the province of Jaen. As the name suggests, it is a pizza restaurant, however I didn't go there for that; I always got distracted with their lunchtime menu (known as 'menu del dia' in Spanish). It is basically a three course meal including a drink, which can be beer or wine, for around 10 euros. Traditionally, the menu del dia was a good value, hearty meal for the people that worked the land but it has stuck and is still very much in use now, spreading from locals to tourists alike, all over Spain.

OLIVE TREES NEAR JAEN

Andalucia -

TRADITIONAL FLAMENCO DRESSES

BOROSA RIVER & WATERFALL, NEAR CAZORLA NATURAL PARK

T R A V E L

On good weather days we would sit outside, and Pepe (the owner) would come and take our order. However, I must stress there will be no menu to read or ponder. He will just fire the selection at you in rapid Spanish, but don't be put off, whatever you end up with will be good! The menu will vary depending upon the season. For example, in autumn, mushrooms can be found in the local woods so Pepe will pick and sautĂŠ these in garlic as a starter. Fig trees grow wild so the fruits are used in savoury as well as sweet recipes. The main course will be centred around either fish or meat, with perhaps patatas a lo probre (a potato and onion dish) and seasonal vegetables. My choice of dessert would be the 'Soupa de Inglesa'. To translate, it just means English soup. The first time Pepe mentioned it, I thought he was pulling my leg, making a joke about English cooking. 'Pulling your leg Elaine, I do not

OLIVE GROVES IN JAEN

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R EC I P E

CHICKEN WITH SPICED FIGS

[Serves 2

INGREDIENTS 50g of bacon or pancetta, diced; 1tbsp of olive oil; 2-3 chicken breasts; 120ml of white wine; rind of half a lemon; 50ml of chicken stock; salt and pepper; 150g of sugar; 120ml of white wine vinegar; 1 lemon slice; 1 cinnamon stick; 120ml of water; 450g of fresh figs METHOD Simmer the sugar, vinegar, lemon and cinnamon with the water for 5 minutes. Add the figs and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to stand for 3 hours at room temperature. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Fry the bacon or pancetta until golden. Transfer to an ovenproof dish. Add the oil to the pan. Season the chicken and brown in both sides, then place these in the ovenproof dish too. Drain and remove the figs from the saucepan. Add the wine and the lemon rind to the saucepan and boil until the wine has reduced and it is syrupy. Pour over the chicken. Cook the chicken in the oven, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, then add the figs and chicken stock. Cover and return to the oven for a further 10 minutes. Serve with salad

[

know what you mean? I do not wish to, how do you say it? Pull anything'. Pepe said with an extremely wry grin. 'OK Pepe, surprise me!' A few moments later a bowl of chocolate sponge, chocolate custard, cherries and cream arrived in front of me. No jelly but definitely the makings of an English trifle. Wow, so of all the English culinary delights to make it to Spain and they pick trifle? Nevertheless, it was superb, which was very strange as in the UK I wouldn't normally touch the stuff! There are plenty of other places similar to Pepe’s in this region. Restaurante Km6 and Restaurante La Bolera to name just two, both specialising in good, honest, home cooking for a reasonable price. Restaurante La Bolera is situated on the edge of the La Bolera Lake, which was created as a reservoir and therefore has been dammed. If the views from the restaurant don't win you over, then try their wild boar casserole, as that most certainly will! In fact the whole of the Cazorla Natural Park is breathtaking; the landscape fluctuates between dramatic cliffs, gorges, waterfalls and forests to the wide open almond and olive groves, which stretch as far as the eye can see. Camping La Bolera is situated between Pepe’s restaurant and La Bolera Lake. It has very good facilities, an outdoor pool and, most importantly, a good tapas menu! So, in short, I love this area, the beautiful scenery, and the simple Spanish home cooking using ingredients that are sold at the local markets or that are found growing wild. It does hold a very special place in my heart and, I think, my cooking and recipes will always reflect that.

THE EPICUREAN

Cruise -

T R A V E L

VISIT

THE GLASSHOUSE

www.pocruises.com

SARAH HARDY SPENDS SEVEN DAYS CRUISING IN THE ATLANTIC - AND MEETS CELEBRITY CHEF MARCO PIERRE WHITE

RUISING is such a growth area (1.9m Brits taking a cruise in 2016 up from 1.78m in 2015) and is certainly no longer just the reserve of the well-heeled, with more and more ships being built and taking to the water each year. There is a ship for any and every taste, whether you want to avoid children, have rowdy toddlers or sulky teenagers with you, have a passion for ballroom dancing or just want to relax. And the destinations are mouth watering - The Baltic, the Norwegian Fjords, the Caribbean, the South Seas - the world is your oyster. I enjoy sailing from Southampton. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a bad journey from Norfolk and you can simply fill the car with all your belongings and away you go - someone takes your luggage at the other end and it magically appears outside your cabin for you. Job done. We had a week spare this summer so opted for a P&O seven night trip, stopping in Spain, Portugal and the Channel Isles. We were on the Ventura, one of the biggest in the P&O fleet, carrying more than 3000 passengers. There are 19 decks and about every facility you could imagine - a library, several pools, a gym, a theatre, a spa, numerous bars, shops, sun decks, a golf driving net, and several restaurants. www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Indeed, as is well documented, food plays an enormous part in your cruise - with dishes available 24/7 and around 150 chefs onboard who keep it coming! There is a formal, waiter service restaurant, a couple of buffet restaurants, room service, coffee bars and about three speciality restaurants including Sindhu, a great Indian restaurant with a menu by Atul Kochlar, which was our favourite. We ate there a couple of times, tucking into delicately spiced dishes including a fabulous roasted lobster in a coconut sauce. Sublime! The fine dining restaurant, The Epicurean, is a class act, and my salt marsh lamb three ways was the best dish I had all week, while The Glasshouse concentrates on pairing wine and food and has a good selection of tapas style dishes to enjoy.

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Cruise -

T R A V E L

We had the former enfant terrible, celebrity chef Marco Pierre White, onboard when we sailed and I attended his seafood masterclass which was great fun. He was surprisingly softly spoken and very charming, guiding us through three delicious dishes which he, of course, made look incredibly easy to create. There was much tasting and chatter - and a glass of fizz and it was a very pleasant and informative couple of hours. I plan to tackle his ‘foolproof’ seafood risotto for a dinner party soon so wish me luck.

If you’ve never been on a large cruise ship, they are really quite something. The sheer size is quite daunting and boy do you walk - from one end to the other is quite a hike. But it does mean that you can enjoy a lecture on serial killers in the morning (yes, really) to a posh cocktail reception in the evening. But the stop offs are the highlight for me - there’s something special about waking up in a new port each day, disembarking, and having a good old nosey round. You tend to have all day in the destination, arriving around 8am and leaving around 5pm, so there’s plenty of time to explore - you can either go independently or join an organised excursion. After a day at sea, our first port of call was relaxed Vigo in Galicia in northern Spain with its rich sea-faring history. It’s a place to simply stroll around, seeking out the churches, little alley-ways and pretty squares. We powered our way up to the ruined fort and it was worth the climb for the views across the rooftops and out to sea. We sailed on to Portugal and its capital, Lisbon, docking near the Moorish Alfama district, the oldest part of the city and home to an Arabic castle and a real tangle of twisting cobbled

Do take plenty of posh frocks as people love the formal evenings where you dress up • Stroll on the open decks before supper - deck seven is where you’ll hear the crashing waves • Don’t miss the fabulous entertainment, from bands to singers, comedians and magicians • We liked the daily crossword challenge! •

ROOFTOP VIEW OF PORTO

HOUSE IN ALFAMA, LISBON RIVER DOURO, PORTO

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PORT OF VIGO LISBON SKYLINE

streets, decorated with beautifully painted tiles. It’s a hilly city, based on the banks of the Tagus, and we took in all the main sites on a mixture of ancient wooden trams and iron funiculars. And be sure to make time for the city’s speciality, little creamy egg custards. Then it was time for Portugal’s second city, Porto. Based at the mouth of the River Douro, it again has a noble history based around fishing and Port and there are numerous places to both taste and buy. While it is big city, I loved the old fishing quarter, the Ribeira, with its labyrinth of streets, packed with wonky houses, and be sure to walk over the Dom Luis, one of six bridges across the river, which was built by Gustave Eiffel. Finally, we called in at Guernsey in the Channel Isles, to the capital St Peter Port, which is so pretty. Again, it is a place to stroll around, visiting those duty free shops, the castle and glorious Candie Gardens - the flowers are quite spectacular thanks to the mild climate. All the ports of call were charming and worth exploring - you can then decide if you might like to return for a longer stay Porto is on my list for a long weekend!

Lovewell Blake

C O L U M N

NEW MARKETS CHRIS SOLT, FOOD AND FARMING PARTNER AT LOVEWELL BLAKE, APPLAUDS A LOCAL INITIATIVE TO GET OUR FOOD AND DRINK PRODUCERS IN FRONT OF TRADE BUYERS

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CHRIS SOLT

IF SUMMER IS the peak period for East Anglia’s tourism industry, autumn is the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness which is a bumper time for any foodie – because it is increasingly the time of year when we have a plethora of food and drink festivals to whet our appetites. The food team here at Lovewell Blake has been out and about in recent months, enjoying festivals in Norwich, Holkham, Aylsham, Reepham, Bury St Edmunds and Aldeburgh, as well as great events such as the Cromer Crab and Lobster Festival, Harfest in the grounds of Norwich Cathedral and the biggest ever Porkstock at its new home at the Norfolk Showground. With all that, plus the Royal Norfolk, Aylsham and Wayland shows earlier in the summer, no-one can complain that our local food and drink producers are not getting the chance to showcase their wares directly to the public. I have written before about how important this is, not just to give potential consumers the opportunity to sample their products, but because building personal relationships with customers who will become advocates for your product or brand is a vital part of marketing for any small-scale producer. www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

The crowds we have seen at these various events over the past few months bear witness to how much consumers also like to interact with producers, so it really is a worthwhile thing to do. The growing success of the various farmers’ markets which take place regularly around the county back this up. However, for a producer who has ambitions to grow beyond the microscale, the opportunity to meet trade buyers is every bit as important, and arguably much more difficult to achieve. Whilst these hard-to-reach professionals do frequent food festivals and farmers’ markets, they usually do so anonymously and, in any case, most producers are too busy interacting with the public. So an event called Local Flavours, which took place in September at the Showground, is to be applauded. Now in its fifth year, this event has become East Anglia’s biggest food and drink trade show. Its raison d’etre is to give our local producers the chance to meet

trade buyers, potentially providing access to much greater numbers of consumers than they could ever hope to do at consumer food events. Those trade buyers are the regional retailers and the big national supermarkets, as well as the foodservice buyers who supply hotels and restaurants. In a consumer market where provenance is increasingly seen as a point of differentiation, these buyers are now taking the kind of interest in smaller, local producers which wouldn’t have been thought possible even ten years ago. Perhaps all this demonstrates that taking that difficult first step from micro producer onto the road to growth is getting slightly easier. Our producers need to be more prepared to take that plunge, and those of us who support them professionally must be more ready than ever to give them the tools to do that – with much lingering uncertainty about our economic future, getting our local produce in front of new markets is more important than ever. DISCLAIMER: Please note this article is provided for your information only. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, information contained herein may not be comprehensive and you should not act upon it without seeking professional advice.

Fritton Arms -

S T A Y C A T I O N

aously

foodie & t a n m o rstay ic seri

THERE ARE TIMES WHEN YOU JUST FANCY A ROMANTIC NIGHT AWAY - AND FRITTON ARMS, ON THE NORFOLK /SUFFOLK BORDER, IS JUST THE PLACE, SAYS SARAH HARDY

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Fritton Arms S T A Y C A T I O N

www.frittonarms.co.uk

E ALL LOVE our children - right? Er, yes, sure. But getting away from them, especially now they are teenagers, is beyond a flippant treat. It is a necessity. Simple as that. And so we headed to one of our favourite spots, a little oasis of calm, Fritton Arms, part of the rather charming 5000-acre Somerleyton Estate on the Norfolk/ Suffolk borders. Tucked away down a sycamore tree-lined drive, and with extensive grounds that also take in the three mile Fritton Lake, the 16th century manor house cuts a charming picture. Painted a warming ochre, it is immediately welcoming as it looks exactly how it should look. Inside doesn’t disappoint either, with the house’s original layout remaining, along with a state-of-the-art kitchen. There are six rooms, all individually styled but still with cool and calming colour schemes, period furniture mixed with contemporary artwork, beams, low ceilings, open fires and candles - oh masses of candles! Action centres around the bar, where you’ll find lots of gins (more of that later), local beers and a comprehensive selection of wines, chosen by Norwich’s Derek Robertson of Lea and Sandeman. The atmosphere throughout is relaxed, but the kitchen, now under James Santillo (ex Benedicts in Norwich), is serious with much of the menu sourced from the estate’s ‘larder’, including Somerleyton Welsh Black Beef, Norfolk

VISIT

Horn Lamb, as well as venison, and vegetables, salads and herbs from the hall’s walled garden. There is also a blackboard detailing local suppliers, such as The Calf At Foot Dairy from Somerleyton, and the Waveney Valley Smokehouse in Lowestoft. We started our ‘away from it all’ evening with drinks on a beautifully upholstered sofa in front of an open fire. Himself had a pint of Bonkers Conkers from Bury St Edmunds and I enjoyed a Ophir gin, complete with ginger and chilli and boy was this spicy number good! The menu offered up four starters and seven mains and has certainly stepped up a gear since my previous visit about a year ago. There are nibbles such as oysters or olives but we went straight in with starters - a ‘cheese and onion jacket potato’ for me which turned out to be plenty of Suffolk Gold cheese inside a crispy potato skin, with potato salad, too. With a touch of onion, it was a fun start to the night! He had the Somerleyton beef tartar, with both mayo and mustard, which tasted as good as it looked. The sauces brought out the different tones to the meat which was delicately presented. I wanted to try the beef too, so went for sirloin, cooked over embers, with watercress, beetroot, celeriac and an onion jus at £24. Arriving medium to rare, it was an ambitious dish, with plenty of texture and excitement. The flavours were big. He went for Chalk stream trout with crushed potatoes, leeks and seaweed butter at £15 and it seemed as light as mine was bold.

FRITTON ARMS has several Christmas and New Year packages - and party nights planned - see online.

As the dishes were not over heavy, we managed desserts. I had a lovely sweet raspberry sorbet with plum and yogurt at £6.50 which was creamy and satisfying while he went for the chocolate and rapeseed truffle - complete with vodka ice cream at £7.50 which went down a storm. We were impressed by the quality of the provenance of the food - sure we like to eat local but it does have to be good, too! There are nine bedrooms, again all kitted out with plenty of flair, and retaining that country house feel. Think soft, thick carpets, shots of hot colours - we had pink and orange lampshades - and I loved the Cow Shed products, and the little sign saying you would be charged £22 per item if you nick any! We always plump for room number one, with its large windows overlooking the front and aside, and a huge bathroom. With a sofa and a further table and seating area, you can work a little, too - as well, of course, as relaxing like mad! Breakfasts are served in the green leather booths in the Fish Room and include either the Lord or Lady Somerleyton options, plus several other treats such as kippers. Whilst we were in need of some ‘me time’ to relax, there is plenty to keep you occupied on the Estate. In the summer, there is wild swimming on the lake, plus walks, trail runs and horse riding. And Somerleyton Hall, the stately home, is interesting, and the gardens are delightful, supplying the gorgeous cut flowers in the hotel. Be sure, too, to visit the Duke’s Head pub, also owned by Lord Somerleyton, and a five minute drive away.

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THIS MONTH our

kitchen gardener Ellen Mary tells us all about growing and eating PARSNIP

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PARSNIPS

Deliciously autumnal and nutritious, root vegetable harvests are some of the most satisfying when lifted from the soil. That earthy smell of goodness just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be beaten. With more sugar than other roots, parsnips do have a few calories, hence why they were used in baking before sugar was around. They have no cholesterol and are full of folic acid along with vitamins such as K and E.

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Parsnips were widely eaten before potatoes came along. So much so, the saying ‘fine words don’t butter parsnips’ was commonly used. They soon declined in the kitchen and still tend not to be used as much as they should be! They are known to have been grown for more than 2000 years and, as the wild variety is inedible, the parsnips we eat today have been cultivated over many years to make them as delicious as they are now.

How to grow

SOW Parsnips are easy to grow from seed. They need the sunshine, and light soil that is deep enough for the roots to grow and not fork. Wait until spring time and sow seeds in warm soil and cover with cloches or fleece until seedlings are strong. As the seedlings grow, thin them out to about 15cm apart and weed gently. CARE When the plants are growing they need very little care, apart from watering in dry weather. The key is in the planning and making sure the soil is light. They are prone to canker so be careful not to damage the swelling roots, don't sow too early and grow a disease resistant variety. Use screening up to 60cm around the parsnip patch to keep carrot root fly away. HARVEST Use a fork to gently lift the roots in autumn. They taste far better if they have been subjected to a light frost. But either way, they will be delicious. Equally, they can be left in the soil until you are ready to harvest over winter.

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RECIPE WITH ELLEN MAR Y

SWEET ROASTED ROOT VEG Spiced, mashed

and even added to cakes, parsnips are a tast y autumna l option. I am a big fan of easy, quick and tast y cooking , and at this time of year a Sunday roast is just the best , so this sweet roasted root vegetable recipe is the perfect accompaniment to Yorkshire pudding and grav y. INGREDIENTS Honey roasted root vegetable mix; 3 freshly harvested parsnips; 4 large carrots; 2 sweet potatoes; honey (the amount depends on your sweet tooth); oregano; rosemary; thyme; 2tbsps of sherry (optional); salt and pepper to taste METHOD Put the oven on to 200°C. Lay a baking sheet on an oven tray. Chop the parsnips, carrots and sweet potatoes into finger size pieces. Place them all in a mixing bowl and add about 4 tablespoons of honey. If you want to add more, go for it! (If you fancy it, you could even add in a couple of tablespoons of sherry). Sprinkle in some oregano, rosemary and thyme, and mix everything together so all of the vegetables are covered in honey. Lay them on the baking tray and roast in the oven for about 30 minutes. Be careful not to burn them but if the edges do get well done, they taste fantastic. Enjoy with your roast and a glass of Bordeaux.

[

PARSNIP ‘PALACE’

[Serves 4

RACHEL BIRTWHISTLE

Allotments -

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Newbie allotmenteer Rachel Birtwhistle gets to grips with a chaotic plot as she battles to control the patch in an autumnal tidy up STOOPED DOWN DIGGING with my bum in the air, I hear a stranger’s voice shout at me, ‘It’s your best asset you know,’ I straighten up and awkwardly say ‘thanks,’ to which he adds ‘and your biggest!’ I give him a withering look, to which he immediately clarifies, ‘Erm … the soil that is.’ He goes into a further, flustered explanation; ‘The soil is your biggest and best asset at the allotment - just make sure you give it a good digging over at this time of year’. Knowledge imparted, he scarpers off. I have over the past few months justified my plot's appearance by stating that while it looks dense with foliage and may to the ‘untrained eye’ look a little …. untidy, this plot has been in full blown production, and growing is a messy business. It is now, however, undeniably autumn and the patch has all but ceased in terms of offering any form of substantial harvest - it is inevitably time to tidy. ‘A couple of days spent organising the allotment at this time of year will

reward you the next,’ I am assured by another plot-holder. My face must have resembled that of a teenager who is told to go tidy their room. ‘It’s not that bad and it’s a good use of a bright day; next month it might be too cold or too wet,’ she adds, strolling off. The adolescent in me is thinking ‘what’s the point in tidying it when nothing’s growing and it’s only going to get messy again,’ but then the realisation that I am a responsible human being who has been alive for nearly four decades kicks in – I grudgingly set about tidying. The only beds in production still, are home to my winter veg. Red cabbage, Swiss chard and leeks now dominate the plot so I tentatively work around these plants. The fruit beds are straightened up and weed free and the bigger (now barren) areas of soil dug over. These will be covered with black plastic to stop the weeds returning but, more importantly, to prevent nutrients escaping over

winter. I have ordered a huge pile of manure to put on top of my beds and have identified an area of the plot I will be experimenting on with a ‘no dig’ approach. The aim here is to create a bed full of well-structured soil, topped up each year with a layer of fertilizer and organic material. The idea is that earthworms and other organisms keep down the weeds as opposed to digging it over. The busy season of planting, nurturing and then harvesting has flown by in a bountiful blur and now the pace of life has slowed down. Proper conversations replace once hurried waves or nods of the head. The air is cold but fresh and the smell of bonfires from nearby plots is a delightful thing. November presents the ideal opportunity to reflect on the peace and quiet an allotment offers – aside from my indignant and audible tidying grumbles. • You can follow Rachel and her plot on twitter @treatlikedirt

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LISA WHEELER

BURNHAM'S BUTCHER VISIT

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LISA WHEELER TELLS US ALL ABOUT HER ARTISAN FOOD COMPANY, NORFOLK CHARCUTERIE, AND ABOUT A CERTAIN PILE OF IRONING!

Who are you and what do you do? I'm Lisa Wheeler and I'm a butcher, charcutier, full time mum to Herbie, 13, Henie, nine, and Dottie, one, and owner of the world’s biggest ironing mountain! Where are you based? I’m based in Burnham Thorpe. I moved to Norfolk three years ago from Nottinghamshire and this is the village that I want to grow old in. What exactly do you produce? Local charcuterie with provenance. We produce a range of salamis and air dried meats, including air dried muntjac and seasonal flavours such as pork and date. We use Holkham venison, which is less than a mile away. The pork comes from Tim Allen in South Creake (four miles away) and is slaughtered at a family-run abattoir in Gayton. The provenance of the meat is so important to us, not just morally but also for quality. All our herbs and spices are freshly ground on the day of production to guarantee maximum flavour. How did you get started? I was lucky enough to be amongst the (2010) first year alumni at The School of Artisan Food, Welbeck, Nottinghamshire. I

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trained intensively under the expert guidance of River Cottage butcher Ray Smith and his wife Mary. My major was butchery and charcuterie, with a minor in baking and patisserie. It was truly like being transported to the food lover’s version of Narnia! In addition to the practical skills, we also learnt so much about our food system, anthropology and worldwide food cultures. Being in that environment, surrounded by people so passionate, can't fail to inspire and quite frankly, it changed my life! What did you do before you started your own business? I was head of butchery at a local food hall and a freelance butcher (often helping out my good friends at the Fruit Pig Company). Having two older children, I worked around school times as much as I could but holidays were a guilt trip, so when I left my previous post on maternity leave, I decided to try and address the balance. Working from home gives me some flexibility around my family. How long have you been going? We set up 'The Meat Shed' in February 2016 but having Dottie in the June made it quite a slow starter! Sleepless nights and sharp knives are not an easy juggling act. Things are ticking along nicely now though, fitting in a few food fairs along with one long production day a week. Slicing, packing, etc then fits in around the new apprentice! What or who inspires/inspired you? Childhood memories, work experience, people I’ve met and travels have had a huge influence, but it's the amazing growers and producers that fuel it further. Just my weekly collection of venison from Holkham makes me want to expand my range and do the best I can with the incredible bounty Norfolk has to offer.

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Where can we buy your products? Bread Source, Upper St Giles, Norwich; Creake Abbey Farmer's Market, first Saturday of the month; Drove Orchards Farm Shop, Thornham; Holkham Hall Gift Shop, Wells-next-the-Sea; Rainbow Stores, East Rudham; The Market Bistro, King's Lynn; The Norfolk Deli, Hunstanton. Have you got a best seller? It's probably the Venison and Fennel Salami, perfect as antipasti or delicious fried and added to a goats’ cheese salad and all of them are a great addition to a pizza! Any future plans? I'd love to help inspire the next generation and show how important provenance is, how important food is to us all; not just as fuel, but socially too. I’m also excited to be in the first wave of British charcuterie producers, an industry that I predict will thrive, just like British cheese, which is now a world contender. What do you like doing in your spare time? As my husband Tom manages a farm shop, there is always food involved. I do love it when family and friends come to visit as we get to share the magic of Norfolk with them. How has Norfolk Food & Drink been able to support you? I can't begin to tell you what an amazing support they have been. As a small producer, it can be hard going but NFD have been so supportive and helpful; often with a few words of encouragement at the right time. We're very lucky to have such support and all the NFD volunteers deserve massive thanks!

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