b l u m e LIFE COMES NATURALLY
THE HONEST COMPANY
+
Inside Jessica Alba’s billion-dollar company
do your blooms measure up? Arrange the perfect centerpiece
spring
beauty picks
All-natural makeup choices for you
SPRING 2015 | $12
Premier Issue VOL. 1 ISSUE 1
throwaway threads How your designer knockoffs are hurting the environment
b l u m e
spring 2015
EDITORS’ NOTE
LIFE COMES NATURALLY Sara Barba Jamie Newman Emma Reynolds Jessica Thomas Founding Publishers and Editors
Madison Alcedo Lili Sams Creative Directors
John Fennell Editorial Adviser
Renee Martin-Kratzer Design Adviser
Dear Blume reader, Welcome to the inaugural issue of Blume, your guide to elevated, eco-conscious living. Our title is derived from the German word for flower, the embodiment of beauty in the natural world.
Product of Missouri School of Journalism’s Magazine Publishing Advanced Publication Design
The inspiration behind Blume stemmed from a missing link in the marketplace between women’s lifestyle and “green” magazines. Blume was created to fill this gap and provide an honest guide to sustainable living.
Special thanks to
In the pages of this issue, you will find a variety of lifestyle-based articles with ideas that you can incorporate into your natural life. We have selected our favorite eco-friendly products, profiled inspiring and world-conscious entrepreneurs, discovered sustainable travel spots and provided everyday essential practices for a fresh lifestyle for you. From seasonal additions to your closet to improving your technology routine, our Spring edition focuses on renewal and growth as citizens of the Earth.
Meredith Corporation Mizzou Publishing
Contact Missouri School of Journalism 120 Neff Hall Columbia, MO 65211 (573) 882-4821
blumemagazine@gmail.com blumemag.com
You, as our reader, are the roots of our vision. By opening this book, you joined our exploration to lead a fulfilling and worthwhile life, naturally. We don’t expect you to sacrifice everyday luxuries for your lifestyle; we just encourage a sustainable version of it. Essentially, you are the embodiment of beauty in the natural world. We thank you for putting your trust in Blume, and we will continue to provide you with best practices to maintain and improve your purposeful life.
Sara,Jamie,Emma &&Jessica Sincerely,
founders of Blume
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IN EVERY ISSUE
THIS ISSUE
5 EDITORS’ LETTER
18 THE NEW BEAUTY STAPLE
Hear about the inspiration for the issue.
8 MECCA
Good Eats & Cozy Retreats: Five cities, five eco-friendly establishments. These businesses across our nation are taking leisure to a whole new – and sustainable – level.
13 WORLD
Fresh Miles: Sometimes, your healthful, organic food isn’t so great for the environment. Get a quick lesson in food miles and how to make the most ecoconscious organic decisions.
16 EDITORS’ PICKS
Achieve dewy skin, rosy cheeks, wideawake eyes and more. Our makeup bags are filled with these all-natural beauty picks for spring.
A successful PR campaign brought coconut oil back into our kitchens. Now, see what this allnatural product can do for your skin and hair.
24 WEARING THE PLANET Why sustainable textiles are the next big thing, and how three designers are using modern technology to print and grow clothing (yes, really!) from scratch.
27 AN ETHICAL MATTER
Responsibility doesn’t mean sacrificing luxury. We’re dreaming of adorning our spring wardrobes with these beautiful baubles.
30 COAL POWER
Proven to clean out pores, whiten teeth, and improve digestion, activated charcoal has been all the talk, and for good reasons. This odorless, tasteless soot yields great benefits.
32 TECHNOLOGY DETOX 46 FEAST
No Bones About It: Learn how to stretch a roast chicken farther with this year’s biggest food fad – bone broth.
49 RETREAT
FEATURES
Horticulture Up High: How does a century-old hotel keep up with the environmental standards of one of the nation’s most eco-friendly cities? The Palmer House Hilton in Chicago flexes its green thumb.
34 THROWAWAY THREADS
50 FINAL TOUCH
40 THE HONEST TRUTH
Do Your Blooms Measure Up?: Use our guide to arrange the perfect centerpiece for your spring event.
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Take a break from your brain-frying electronics and improve your mental health. We even provide you with a detox schedule!
The cheap thrill of buying low-cost, trendy pieces of clothing is doing more harm than you might think. Discover the dangers of the fastfashion movement.
Why Jessica Alba’s Honest Company may be the most successful celebrity-backed brand of all time.
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MECCA
&
cozy RETREATS
FRESH eats
Y
BY EMMA REYNOLDS
ou may know where the best vegan restaurant is in your town, or have the inside of your favorite fair trade coffee shop memorized, but how about when you travel? Peek into these sustainable establishments and keep up your green routine when traveling.
1. NEW YORK: MARBLE & MILKWEED
One of skincare’s best-kept secrets resides in a cozy TriBeCa loft. Marble & Milkweed provides handmade organic, fair trade skincare ranging from facial tonic to lip balm to body oil. Fairly low-priced, their products are available for local pickup and customers can catch a glimpse into their heavenly white studios with natural lighting and airy décor.
2. SEATTLE: TOTOKAELO
Carefully curated clothing and art meets an organic and natural lifestyle. Jill Wenger, founder of Totokaelo, started this Seattlebased clothing brand in 2003 and carries both women’s and men’s clothing. Her organic cotton shirts and silk jumpers look straight from the runway, but with an eco-friendly edge. She is vehemently against manufacturing clothes in sweatshops and sells many organic-fiber garments and handmade accessories, like iPad covers and pouches.
1
Marble & Milkweed’s TriBeCa studio is filled with plenty of natural lighting — the perfect backdrop for some inspiration for their skincare line.
Briar Winters, founder of Marble & Milkweed, looks on in her bright, minimalist TriBeCa studio. Samples of her collection and tools she uses to create them line every surface of her studio.
Located in downtown Seattle, this store houses carefully curated garments and accessories in an open and airy atmosphere.
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2
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MECCA
Neon signs illuminate the outside of this Austin-based coffee shop housing some of the city’s best brews and tastiest natural foods.
3
The warm colors and dazzling chandeliers hanging from the ceilings at Elizabeth’s Gone Raw will make you feel like you’re in a five-star Parisian restaurant. Natural cocktails and healthful raw dishes make this atmosphere all the more chic.
4 3. AUSTIN: MONKEY NEST COFFEE
This locally owned coffee shop is a must-see for Austin visitors. It has an eclectic local vibe and weekly live events. It is an environmentally and socially conscious shop that sells organic fair trade coffee and a menu full of local and natural ingredients.
4. WASHINGTON D.C.: ELIZABETH'S GONE RAW Raw food doesn’t always sound appetizing, but this upscale, trendy eatery might just change your mind. Created as an experiment in 2009, Elizabeth Petty’s raw food menu looks straight out of a Parisian café. Caviar, Forest Mushroom & Asparagus Salad and Mulberry & Pink Grapefruit Sorbet are only slivers of the delicacies offered here. Petty also offers natural wine pairings to complement her entirely plant-based menu.
5. CHICAGO: HOTEL FELIX
5
Hotel Felix’s restaurant is small and intimate, filled with natural lighting and cozy dining spaces. Replicated like a European-style boutique restaurant, it serves up some of the best cocktails and fresh, seasonal dishes in all of Chicago.
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This eco-friendly boutique hotel is located in the heart of downtown Chicago. It is the first entirely eco-friendly hotel in the city. Not only are its walls made from reclaimed materials, but the natural southern exposure helps heat the building during winter months. If you’re still not sold, there is a Recycling Room in the hotel to sort recyclables, green cleaning supplies and rooms start at only $109. Scattered throughout the hotel are sustainable art structures made from found and recycled materials.
WORLD
Is your
organic food
hurting the environment?
BY SARA BARBA
E
ating organic is good for you. Eating organic is good for the environment, if you do it right. Some eat organic for personal health reasons, and some eat for environmental reasons. But is organic food really as good for the environment as we think it is? That depends on where you get it. Essentially, everything you eat has food miles. Food miles are the distance the food travels from where it’s grown or produced to the grocery store or market that it’s sold at. “If you’re buying ‘green,’ you should consider the distance the food travels,” says researcher Vicki Burtt. “If it’s traveling further, then some of the benefits of organic crops are cancelled out by extra environmental costs.” The environmental impact of transporting organically grown produce is the same as conventionally grown produce. So how do we limit this impact so that eating good is doing good, too? Don’t just eat organic, eat local organic. Frequent farmer’s markets and grocery stores that sell local food. Grow your own produce in your backyard garden. Do whatever you can to reduce your food miles and the air around you will thank you.
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Radiance beauty products & practices
SEA SALT SPRAY for your hair With the weather finally warming up, we’re all about effortless hair and makeup. Sea salt spray is the fastest and easiest way to add texture to limp hair. Spray your favorite one (or DIY your own!) on damp hair, braid loosely and let dry. Then get outside and soak up some vitamin D (with SPF, of course).
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radiance Our favorites are as fresh as
spring flowers We know the world of natural beauty products can be confusing. It’s hard enough to pick the right shade of lipstick without also worrying about whether it’s been tested on animals or not. We’ve done the work so you don’t have to. Here are our favorite beauty offerings for this spring.
It’s not just the makeup you’re putting on your face; it’s about how you put it on. EcoTools’ line of eco-friendly makeup tools with bamboo handles is 100 percent cruelty-free. Now just the act of doing your makeup is eco-conscious. EcoTools Bronzer Brush, ecotools.com, $10
Lime Crime, with its cult following, prides itself on its vegan and cruelty-free formulas. The brand’s line of Velvetines swipe onto your lips as a shiny liquid, but dry opaque and matte, creating a bright punch of color that lasts all day. Lime Crime Velvetine, limecrime.com, $20
Made entirely from organic acai and goji berries, this blush creates an antioxidantrich rosy glow. It is also formulated with organic grapeseed oil and vitamin E to naturally moisturize and protect the skin. This gluten-free, paraben-free blush also has a slightly luminous finish to enhance your natural beauty. Juice Beauty Glowing Cheek Color, juicebeauty.com, $16
This mist detangles and gives your hair new life. Its natural ingredients hydrate your hair while also preventing breakage. What’s not to love? Macadamia Professional Weightless Moisture Conditioning Mist, macadamiahair.com, $22 With the dry winter months (finally) coming to an end, our hair and skin still need a little moisture. Luckily, this cult-favorite beauty product does double duty as a restorative hair treatment and a light body oil. Josie Maran 100% Pure Argan Oil, josiemarancosmetics.com, $48
In our book, mascara is absolutely an essential member of your daily beauty routine. A good one volumizes and lengthens your lashes while making you look wide awake. Because we use this product every day, (and right next to sensitive eyes), this all-natural mascara is a new staple. The formula relies on organic ingredients and is paraben- and perfume-free. Physician’s Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Mascara, physiciansformula.com, $9.95
Unlike other heavy body oils that tend to sweat off your skin throughout the day, Marble & Milkweed’s weightless oil is just enough to last all day while providing a natural, perfume-like scent. The blend of organic oils such as cardamom, rose and Australian sandalwood, have an earthy aroma that is perfect to lull you to sleep or get you through your day. Marble & Milkweed Nourishing Body Oil, marbleandmilkweed.com, $32 Do your eyes need a pick-me-up? This lightweight cream instantly brightens tired undereye circles and reduces puffiness. Its all-natural formula consists of caffeine from coffee beans, ginseng and magnolia extract. Origins GinZing, origins.com, $30
Get a behindthe-scenes look at Marble & Milkweed on page 8. All-natural, gluten-free and vegetarian?! Oh my! These luscious lip colors come in three shades, each made with a different mix of real fruit pigments, from raspberries, to cherries, to plum. 100% Pure Fruit Pigmented Lip Creamstick, birchbox.com, $15
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Wildcrafted and organic, this travel roll-on is a must-have for all types of travel. Whether a short road trip or a transatlantic flight, this travel remedy helps to relieve discomfort from sitting too long and clear your sinuses from the clutter planes bring. The organic scents of lemon, lavender, cedar and orange dispel a refreshing and stress-relieving aroma that you’ll swear never to travel without. H. Gillerman’s Natural Rest Travel Remedy, hgillermanorganics.com, $48
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radiance
The New
beauty
FOUR NATURAL USES: 1
Staple
How coconut oil will become the most-used product in your bathroom cabinet
2
BY JESSICA THOMAS
3 Coconut oil has long been one of our favorite products. It’s solid at room temperature like butter, which makes it great for making vegan baked goods. Its mild flavor and high heat tolerance make it the perfect oil for your next stirfry. While some doctors frowned upon the oil because of its high saturated fat content, more recent research shows it’s beneficial in moderation. Lately, however, the jar has migrated from the kitchen to the bathroom. Coconut oil is one of our favorite natural beauty products because it multitasks better than anything else. Here are some of our favorite hair and skin uses for this versatile oil.
With its antibacterial and antifungal properties, this trendy oil even makes a smart choice for a natural diaper cream.
4
TEETH WHITENER
Our beauty editors swear by the ancient Ayurvedic method of swishing coconut oil in their mouths every morning to freshen breath, kill germs and whiten teeth. After two weeks of daily oil pulling, our teeth were noticeably whiter. The how to? Swish a few teaspoons of coconut oil around your mouth for 20 minutes right when you wake up. Make sure not to spit it down the sink when you’re done – it can clog your pipes.
MOISTURIZING MULTI-TASKER
Tired of using this alternative oil on your skin? Try it with your coffee instead of creamer!
Use coconut oil to soothe dry patches on your elbows, knees, hands and feet. The oil will sink into your skin after a few minutes. If your legs are extra dry, it’s a great all-over lotion as well. Bonus – during allergy season, coconut oil can soothe the dry, irritated skin caused by constant nose-blowing.
EYE MAKEUP REMOVER
Warm some coconut oil between your fingers then use it to remove stubborn eye makeup. Even thick layers of eyeliner and mascara will slide right off. The oil is also great at promoting lash growth.
HAIR MASK
Coconut oil’s moisturizing properties are great for skin and hair. After your regular shampoo and conditioner, warm some coconut oil between your hands and distribute evenly on the lower half of your hair strands. Twist hair into a bun and leave in for five minutes. Rinse with cool water and revel in your shiny and silky hair.
WHIPPED BROWN SUGAR COCONUT body scrub
Can't find your lib balm? Grab some coconut oil and apply to your lips!
This luxurious homemade scrub will leave skin silky and prep your winter legs for shorts and spring dresses. Use our short guide on page 21 to choose an essential oil to add to your scrub, or leave it as is. Ingredients ½ cup unrefined coconut oil ½ cup brown sugar 15-20 drops essential oil (optional) 1 teaspoon lemon zest (optional) Instructions Using a hand mixer or stand mixer with a paddle attachment, whip the coconut oil for three minutes until volume increases. Add the brown sugar and essential oils, if using. For extra energy-boosting scrub, add lemon zest. Stir to combine. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to two months. If using lemon zest, store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
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radiance
THE SHORT GUIDE TO
essential oils energizing * Forbodyan scrub, use
Want to make the coconut oil body scrub found on page 19? We recommend adding some of your favorite essential oil to the mix. Use our simple guide below to tailor your scrub to your life.
peppermint essential oil sensitive * Forskin, use chamomile essential oil
For a calming *body scrub, use lavender essential oil
body scrub, * Forusea cooling eucalyptus essential oil
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uniform fashion trends and trailblazing designers
spring
fever Become inspired by the colorful hues of the revived earth outdoors: the bright blue sky, joyful pink tulips and fresh green leaves sprouting from tree branches. Shed your bulky winter wardrobe and uncover your spring clothes. Embrace everything this season has to offer.
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uniform
FROCKS OF THE
FUTURE Three designers are taking the ultimate risk all in in the name of sustainability. These pieces are two of the first 3D-printed designs in Van Dongen’s Crystallization collection, which fuses the idea of the invisibility of water with the structure of chaos.
BY EMMA REYNOLDS As our habits towards the environment become friendlier in some aspects, we may ask ourselves what else we are missing when it comes to reducing our carbon footprint. We may (try) to diligently recycle, reuse our water bottles or even do fewer loads of laundry. Whatever new habits we are trying to create, often times we overlook one of the most important issues: our clothing. Being conscious about the very clothes on our back or the bags draped over our shoulder can help us battle one of the environment’s strongest enemies. Innovators in the industry of sustainable textiles may hold the answers to balancing our fashion wants with the Earth’s needs.
WHAT ARE SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES?
In short, they are fabrics that come from eco-friendly resources like sustainably grown fiber crops or repurposed materials. Sustainable textiles also refers to how these products are manufactured. Recently, new technology has allowed researchers to manufacture clothing with little to no pollution, as well as clothing that actually benefits the environment. Much of this clothing comes in the form of wearable technology, a sustainable textile practice created with the click of a mouse and not in factories.
BREAKTHROUGH DESIGNERS
Suzanne Lee is the creator of BioCouture, a London-based design company that grows clothing using bacteria. As a former senior research fellow at the School of Fashion & Textiles at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art & Design, she became interested in the concept because of its relationship with the environment. The clothing she creates is grown entirely from microbes, specifically a mix of yeast and bacteria. The method utilizes fermentation that produces bacterial cellulose, which she says is “like a vegetable leather.” “What attracts me to it is that it’s compostable. It’s not just biodegradable, it’s compostable. So you could throw it away like you would your vegetable peelings,” Lee says. “Through an engagement with biology I’m really excited about how we can think about organisms like microbes as the factories of the future.” Not only does this reinvent the way we think of technology, but it can make us aware of just how indisposable our clothing is right now. Think: a dress that can charge your phone? Right… But this technology may not be too far-fetched. Pauline Van Dongen, a Dutch expert in wearable technology, has created clothing made up of solar panels that can help charge our mobile devices. This sophisticated clothing is an all-black range embedded with solar panels on the shoulders and chest to charge your phone. The 24 | blumemag.com
clothing looks futuristic and has leather flaps covering the solar panels when not in use. When outside, the flaps can be opened to capture sunlight. A standard plug connects the solar panels to a mobile device and is able to charge a phone up to 50 percent battery. “Wearable Solar is about integrating solar cells into fashion, so by augmenting a garment with solar cells, the body can be an extra source of energy,” Van Dongen says. “It’s really about the true integration of technology and fashion, which can transcend the realm of gadgets.” Part of Wearable Solar’s mission says, “The sun is the biggest source of energy on earth and now that fossil fuels are depleting, it’s time we come up with a sustainable alternative.” Iris Van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer whose expertise lies in creating a unique alliance in design and materials used. Unsurprisingly, her intern experience at Alexander McQueen has helped shape her unforgiving approach to changing haute couture as we know it. She uses modern technology as an influence, as well as natural forces of the earth, such as magnetism, smoke, animals, the human body and the four elements. Her style is often described as sculptural and futuristic, and her work is more a piece of art than anything. She was the first designer who introduced 3D printing to the fashion world and continues to promote sustainability in her clothing. She loves what the digital world has to offer to fashion and prefers to curate her own designs in a lab instead of a factory.
IS THIS THE FUTURE OF FASHION?
It could be. The fact that designers of clothing and technology are working together to form aesthetically pleasing, environmentally conscious products is a breakthrough in what we know now. If these designers are able to come up with a way to mass-distribute sustainable clothing, this technology will alter the way we dress and live. Until then, it’s important to be conscious about the places we shop and the way we dispose of our clothing. blumemag.com | 25
uniform
ethical
MATTERS Buying responsibly made jewels does not mean you have to sacrifice an ounce of luxury BY JAMIE NEWMAN
DIAMOND ROSETTE NECKLACE Handmade in Chicago, designer Julia Failey combines ethically sourced diamonds with recycled gold to create a one-of-a-kind beauty. In fact, she uses reclaimed metals in all of her designs to reduce environmental impact. Julia Failey, juliafailey.com, $1,720
DIAMOND MAXIMUS RING D&H Jewelry prides itself on offering “luxury with a conscience.� On this ring, conflict-free diamonds frame a gorgeously polished chalcedony stone. D&H Sustainable Jewelers, dnhjewelers.com, $4,070
SUAVE CUFF Faire collection is a social enterprise that empowers artisans in impoverished communities. Made from bullhorn that had been found as waste in Vietnam, this cuff was made by artisans in the country, helping get them out of a cycle of poverty. Faire Collection, shopfaire.com, $72
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thrive body and mind
yoga MASTER
Our hectic day-to-day schedules tend to hinder us from taking any time for ourselves. We challenge you to live in the present moment for just three minutes a day. Focus on your breaths for this short break in the day. You won’t believe how refreshing three minutes can feel.
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thrive
1
coal
BIORE SELF-HEATING MASK Results: All I knew about activated charcoal before testing out this mask was that it had a variety of benefits. I knew it was basically the next coffee scrub for your skin and figured I had to try to Self-Heating One Minute Mask by Biore. As someone who struggles with large pores and facial blemishes, this product revealed cleaner pores. Not many other facial masks I’ve used have delivered such great results. I’m beyond excited to use this product weekly. —EMMA
power
A
ctivated charcoal seems to be popping up as a key ingredient in everything from face masks, to soaps, to digestive supplements. Blume’s editors investigated what all the hype is about. Contrary to what you may think, this activated charcoal is nothing new. The black powder has been used for detoxing regiments as early as 1550 BC. The odorless, tasteless and nontoxic soot supposedly works like a magnet in removing organic toxins from the skin and digestive track. Blume’s editors tested out activated charcoal to see what all the excitement is about with the latest fad in holistic regiments. 1. CHARCOAL POWDER Activated Charcoal is used as a purifier. It is highly proficient at removing color, flavor, and odor compounds from liquids such as juice, wine, and sweeteners. Starwest’s Activated Charcoal is made from sawdust and therefore is a renewable resource. starwest-botanicals.com, $22
2 3
2. SHAMANUTI ACTIVATED CHARCOAL CLEANSER This unique cleanser utilizes the properties of activated charcoal to neutralize acidity and absorb impurities as well as to gently exfoliate the skin with maple extract. shamanuti.com, $36
3. PURESOL FACIAL SPONGE This sponge gently exfoliates while deep cleansing and removing any toxins and impurities, leaving you with a radiant complexion. It is extremely soft and gentle for everyday skin care. Great for all skin types. amazon.com, $10
ACTIVATED CHARCOAL PILLS
TEETH WHITENING CHARCOAL
Results: My stomach is not my friend. Me and it seem to not get along much more often than we do. That’s why I was excited to test out activated charcoal pills over my spring break vacation to Cabo San Lucas. Based on some research, the little black miracle capsules promised to relieve symptoms of a hangover post-consumption of tequila and help me digest food from the all-inclusive resort’s buffets. It sounded too good to be true! Well, it was, in fact, too good to be true. After two days of taking the pills at breakfast time, the hangovers still struck and my stomach was not happy. Taking activated charcoal orally? Maybe for you, but definitely not for me. —JAMIE
Results: I had read about the benefits of activated charcoal before this little experiment, and the one use that stood out to me was teeth whitening. After years of expensive orthodontia, I am pretty proud of my straight teeth. Because of this, I’m always looking for new ways to whiten them. While I love the results of using at-home, chemical-based products, I hate the ingredients in them. For the past year, I’ve tried oil-pulling as a natural way to whiten my teeth. However, spending 20 minutes a day swishing coconut oil in my mouth is not always pleasant (or practical). Activated charcoal is a natural teeth whitener, so I decided to try it out. I put a small amount of toothpaste on my toothbrush then dipped it in activated charcoal before brushing like normal. While the black powder made it look like I had been eating dirt, it easily rinsed out with some water. The results? Noticeably whiter teeth after just a few uses. —JESSICA
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thrive
technology detox Why you need a break from your devices and how they are affecting your mental health BY SARA BARBA
F
orget juice cleanses and sugar detoxes; what we need to do to improve our mental health is cleanse ourselves of technology — at least slightly. Right now, technology dominates our social and private lives. For most, it’s simply habit to click on that Twitter or Instagram icon when we’re bored or procrastinating. Social media and technology use are not all bad, but balance is good. Mental aesthetic is good. Most of all, healthy habits are good. So maybe it’s time to consider your own tech-cleanse.
IT’S ADDICTIVE
According to research, technology is a real addiction. In a study done by the University of Glasgow, half of the respondents reported checking their email at least once an hour. Additionally, an AOL study found that users check their email at least once a day while on vacation — so much for a relaxing getaway. There have even been openings of technology addiction clinics around America to try to curb the tech-habits that so many Americans have. In addition, addictions lead to withdrawals. What characterizes these withdrawals you may ask? It’s unique for everyone but some basic characteristics are restlessness and anxiety. A team of researchers in the UK conducted a study in 2012 where two thirds of users said they had trouble relaxing when they didn’t have access to their social media accounts. A year later, the University of Winchester conducted a study where self-admitting Facebook addicts were asked to give up their accounts for a month. They literally showed signs of withdrawals. During the “cleanse,” one volunteer said: “I’ve felt alone and cut off from the world. My fingers seem to be programmed to seek out the Facebook app every time I pick up my phone.” Becoming dependent on a device leads to reduced mental health, so unplug before you’re forced into tech-rehab.
Monday
The most important reason to detox is to have more personal, faceto-face interaction. It’s undeniable that there’s a difference between a physical smile and a small yellow circle with a face coded into it. And while yes, technology makes it easier to communicate with family and friends, the communication quality is extremely weak. Because of this, people who communicate more through screens will find it harder to understand emotion in others. Dr. Kate Roberts, a psychologist in Boston, says that screen time is not an appropriate substitute for face time. “People aren’t using face-to-face contact for personal issues, it doesn’t fill the intimacy need,” she says. “For all the strong reaction out there about Twitter and Facebook allowing emotional expression, it’s not necessarily effective. You’re not necessarily getting to a resolution like you would with another person.” Because of this disconnect, relationship quality is decreasing, and that can’t be good for anyone.
RELATIONSHIPS + HEALTH
Of course healthy relationships foster healthy lives, and there are studies to prove it. These healthy relationships we create through face-to-face interactions reduce stress, mental illness, pain and lead to a longer life. In addition, it is theorized that immune systems are repressed by stress, so stress leads to more autoimmune diseases. It’s even been found that people with close friendships are less likely to develop chronic illness. Essentially, happy people are healthier, and happiness stems from strong relationships, which are rooted in physical interactions.
workweek cleanse Friday
Wednesday
When you go to bed, leave your phone on the other side of the room. You won’t be tempted with screen time in the middle of the night, and your phone won’t distract you from going to sleep.
Promise yourself you will make your phone battery last for two days instead of one. It will limit your screen time and you can have real face-to-face interactions.
Tuesday An hour before you go to bed, vow that you won’t use any screens for the rest of the night. Turn off or lock your phone and plug it in where you’re not tempted to grab it. 32 | blumemag.com
THE ORIGINAL FACETIME
Leave your phone at home when you leave for the day. You can grab it before you go out at night, but without it in your purse, you won’t be tempted to check your texts or social media.
Thursday Turn your phone off while you’re at work. You’ll get to immerse yourself in your work and actually pay attention to it.
throwaway threads Cheap, trendy clothes may seem like a quick closet fix, but these affordable garbs are doing more harm than good BY JAMIE NEWMAN
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W
e’ve all been there; the draw of cheap, on-trend garments luring us in. With the seemingly endless list of websites and brick-and-mortar retailers selling inexpensive and stylish garb, it doesn’t come as a huge surprise that, on average, every American purchases one piece of new clothing each week. Truth is, when we are shopping for new items, in the back of our minds we are well aware that by the end of that season, the floppy hat trend you so diligently abided by is now collecting dust at the back of your closet, who cares if it’s under $20? Well, you should. Although easy on the wallet, the harmful effects of fast fashion have consequences on just about everything else.
MORE ISN’T ALWAYS BETTER
“Fast food restaurants were never meant to be the only place you eat. Well, fast fashion is probably not the only way to shop,” McMurry says.
OUTSOURCING WORKERS There are more slaves in the world today than at any other time in history, according to slaveryfootpring.org. For example, during cotton harvest season, Uzbekistan is one country notorious for its use of forced labor. Over one million citizens are drafted by the Uzbek government to pick cotton, unpaid. Slavery in the processing of garments is prevalent, specifically during the sewing process. Factories contract tasks to sub-contractors, who then exploit desperate workers to do things like clip threads or hand sew. When laborers can’t keep up with their required work pace, debt bondage results.
THIS SHIRT IS MADE WITH CHEAP MATERIALS THAT DO NOT DECOMPOSE IN LANDFILLS
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Fast fashion is the contemporary term for designs that move from the catwalk to mainstream retailers in order to capture current fashion trends. This means that the fads you see during Fashion Week will be on the racks in some variation at your local Forever 21, H&M, Zara or Topshop in a few weeks. Prices of clothing garments have dropped by as much as 60 percent in the past 15 years due to fast-fashion practices like quick manufacturing and outsourced labor, according to a New York Times article. By producing mass quantities of clothing, retailers can keep prices low and drive their profits up. Zara produces 1 million garments per day. Forever 21 produces 100 million pieces of clothing each year. But the fashion industry thrives on making us feel out of trend after one season. There are over 52 “micro-seasons” per year and trends are changing quicker ever, according to the Huffington Post. The goal of fast fashion is to entice consumers to buy as many garments as quickly as possible. Monica McMurry, dean of the School of Fashion and Design at Stephens College in Columbia, Missouri, believes people buy excessive amounts of cheap clothing that they don’t need. McMurry says that rather than buying mass amounts of fast-fashion items, people should instead purchase a few pieces of quality clothing that will last longer.
Fast food restaurants were never meant to be the only place you eat. Well, fast fashion is probably not the only way to shop.
THIS DRESS IS MADE IN A FACTORY THAT HAS A LACK OF REGULATIONS FOR ITS WORKERS
—MONICA MCMURRY Dean of the School of Fashion and Design at Stephens College in Columbia, Missouri
responsible
ROUTINES Incorporate these simple alternatives into your repertoire EXCESS WASTE FROM THE FACTORY THAT MAKES THESE SHOES CAUSES POLLUTION IN VIETNAM’S RIVERS
>>Shop for clothes made locally or in America. >>Invest in high-quality garments that last longer. >>Buy vintage to reuse and repurpose clothing >>Swap clothes with friends or borrowing
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Fast-fashion retailers choose countries like Bangladesh, China, India or Vietnam because labor is cheap and workers can produce clothing extremely fast, though under difficult conditions. Half of clothing cost is labor, so if that can be cut down, so can the price of your T-shirt. In June 2014, US News reported that along with cheap price tags, many items on UK fast fashion retailer Primark’s clothing racks made by women in Bangladesh included sewn tags that said, “Degrading sweatshop conditions,” and “Forced to work exhausting hours.” Although the cries are still under investigation–no one knows whether this was a hoax — the issue can’t be overlooked. In April 2013, The Rana Plaza collapse left 1,129 people — mostly garment workers — dead. Aside from low pay, workers suffered unsafe working conditions for long hours with few breaks. This is a true cost of fast fashion.
ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS Fast fashion isn’t meant to last; it is meant to be disposable (how else would the brands continue to sell their goods?). The average fastfashion garment goes from the store to the landfill within one year. Despite 100 percent of clothing being recyclable, Americans dispose 68 pounds of textiles per person each year, according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). That calculates to five percent of all solid waste.
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million tons of textile waste are generated annually in the U.S.
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Not only does fast fashion result in more garbage, manufacturing these quickly discarded items uses up a mass amount of our natural resources: about 145 tons of coal and between 1.5 and 2 trillion gallons of water to produce. As of 2011, 99 percent of footwear and 98 percent of apparel is made outside of the United States. In 1990, about 50 percent of clothes and shoes were produced outside of the country. Besides this hurting the American apparel industry tremendously by outsourcing jobs, shipping pollution takes its toll on the environment. Transportation of outsourced clothing doesn’t just occur from a garments country of origin, to its warehouse, to its store. Only 20 percent of our surplus-sized wardrobes that we get rid of is sold in thrift shops or given to charity, simply because there is just too much of it. The clothes that aren’t turned into fibers or wiping rags (about 50 percent) are transported back overseas to be sold or donated, further increasing our carbon footprint. The good news is that more consumers are realizing that quality beats quantity. A recent report by the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) revealed that. In 2012, Americans bought fewer units of clothing but spent 4.8 percent more, for a total of $282.2 billion. That was the second year in a row that units went down and prices went up. Industry experts are confident that this trend will continue.
billion garments are consumed by Americans per year
98
percent of apparel is made outside of the U.S.
THIS SWEATER IS FROM EVERLANE, A CLOTHING COMPANY THAT PROMISES TO ALWAYS USE FAIR BUSINESS PRACTICES.
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THE
honest TRUTH Jessica Alba on family, home and that $1 billion company BY JESSICA THOMAS
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I had always tried to live a sustainable lifestyle but had been focused on what was best for the earth. Being pregnant, that shifted to be about what was best for human health. I didn’t want anything in my home that could make my children sick. — JESSICA ALBA
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elebrity-branded products are the epitome of hit-or-miss. While the idea of a celebrity fashion brand brings to mind teen clothing lines at mid-level department stores, a new wave of celebrity entrepreneurism has its roots in home and lifestyle products. Gwyneth Paltrow’s GOOP brands her as the next Martha Stewart. Blake Lively recently launched Preserve, an online marketplace for American-made artisan products. But by far one of the most successful iterations of this trend is Jessica Alba’s The Honest Company. She’s known in Hollywood for big-budget films like Sin City and Fantastic Four but has spent the last several years focusing on her startup. Alba created the idea for the company when she was pregnant with her first daughter, Honor, in 2008. Seven years later, Wall Street values the company at $1 billion. The company’s line of family-focused products specializes in diapers, bath and body products and non-toxic cleaning solutions. What could be seen as a vanity project for the movie star is a fullfledged business that landed spots for its products in Whole Foods, Nordstrom and most recently, Target.
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The Honest Company’s morals and goals are rooted in the values of its founder. “I had always tried to live a sustainable lifestyle, but had been focused on what was best for the earth,” Alba says. “Being pregnant, that shifted to be about what was best for human health. I didn’t want anything in my home that could make my children sick.” Alba’s passion for sustainability extends from her company’s goals to the actions of her everyday life. She grew up in Los Angeles during a period of severe droughts and knows how much impact humans have on the environment. “As a kid, off and on, I lived with my grandparents, who grew up during the Depression,” she says. “They had five repurposes for everything, so I always had that mentality.” Alba’s home growing up always had a recycling bin, a tradition she carries on today with her daughters. Additionally, she’s a proponent of composting and repurposing vintage furniture. Her bright pink desk, which sits in the middle of the Honest Company offices, is a Craigslist find. “Repurposing is one of the most eco things you can do,” she says. Alba’s social consciousness extends to her company’s social goodness platform, a plan they developed to give back to the blumemag.com | 43
The signature turquoise of The Honest Company logo is used throughout its Santa Monica, California offices, which effortlessly mix cozy and modern styles.
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communities their products reach. “We are proving that there’s a different way to do business,” she says. “We have a social component that’s embedded into our business model – from our manufacturing practices to how we treat our employees; from all the nonprofit work we do internally to giving a percentage of sales away to over 100 charities. We donate over 1,000 employee hours, and we’ve given away over 540,000 products.” In February, the company announced a plan to donate $3 million in 2015 to the eight charities and foundations it supports. Most of these operations focus on family and health-based issues that align with the company’s mission. Three of those companies are including Partnership for a Healthier America and the Center for Environmental Health and the Children’s Environmental Health Network. “The Honest Company commits not only to give children their healthiest start in life by investing in programs and partnerships that build a strong support network for today’s busy parents, but also to support young people by providing education, skill-training, and career-readiness as they go out into the world to pursue dreams of their own,” says Christopher Gavigan, co-founder and chief product officer of The Honest Company. 44 | blumemag.com
The Santa Monica, California-based company is located a few hours from Silicon Valley, but the start-up nature of the business and thriving e-commerce website place a heavy emphasis on new technologies. This is reflected in The Honest Company’s partnership with Code.org and sponsorship of Girls Who Code’s summer immersion program. Two of the company’s less family-focused initiatives support STEM education and technology in the classroom to increase female interest in the field. This summer, The Honest Company will host 20 high school juniors and seniors in California for seven weeks. The teens will learn coding and work on other projects. Alba brings that female-empowerment lesson home every day to her two daughters, Honor and Haven, with film-producer husband Cash Warren. In addition to a 40-hour workweek at The Honest Company, she juggles motherhood with interviews, photo shoots and the occasional film or television appearance. “Being a supermom isn’t a realistic standard,” she says. “I rely on endless schedules and to-do lists – not to mention Cash – to manage the chaos of work and family life. It’s impossible to do everything perfectly, but I’ve learned not to sweat the small stuff.”
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1. Rooms, shelves, and yes, cake stands, are filled with The Honest Company products in their offices. Employees are surrounded by samples of the company’s latest offerings.
3. The company’s open-plan office space encourages camaraderie among the staff. Alba, whose desk is a bright pink vintage restoration, sits directly in the middle of the hub.
2. Bright colors are key for Alba, who played a large role in designing the company’s office space. The technicolor couch draws attention to the wall of motivational quotes. Alba, who believes in the power of a good quote, helped hand-select them.
4. The Honest Company is known for its (adorable) printed, disposable diapers. Its baby products are all extensively tested to ensure the highest quality. blumemag.com | 45
FEAST
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ose-to-tail cooking, the practice of using all edible parts of an animal, has been steadily increasing in popularity for the past several years, aided by the success of Chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s best-selling memoir, “Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef.” Hamilton opened her New York restaurant, Prune, in the East Village over 15 years ago. She’s become a face of the movement to use everything an animal has to offer, including less desirable cuts like offal and innards. The bonus of cooking with these cuts is there’s far less animal waste than taking the filets and tenderloins and leaving behind the rest of the cow. While nose-to-tail cooking at home isn’t exactly realistic, there are still ways to reduce waste and maximize the value of your groceries. To do that, we’ve combined a classic recipe and a quick guide to making bone broth so you can DIY your own nose-to-tail cooking at home. Like quinoa and kale, bone broth is the latest “miracle” food to hit the market. Home cooks have long since used the remnants of their roast chickens to make homemade stock, but the trend is increasing in popularity among young people and restaurant owners. Both stock and bone broth are made with basic ingredients – water, meat or bones and aromatics or flavorings like vegetables. Bone broth enthusiasts claim there’s a difference between the two because bone broth is cooked for an extended period of time (up to 24 hours), while stock is only simmered for a few hours. During the extended time, the heat and water break down the bones, releasing collagen, gelatin, protein and some minerals. While some tout bone broths as a miracle cure for whatever ails you, the jury’s still out. However, given the healing powers of chicken soup, we’ll give this trend a try.
NO bones ABOUT IT This double-duty chicken recipe will make the most of your purchase BY JESSICA THOMAS
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SIMPLE ROAST CHICKEN AND VEGETABLES
ROAST CHICKEN BONE BROTH
Ingredients One 3-4 lb. whole chicken, neck and giblets removed (preferably organic and free range) 2 carrots 1 large white onion 2 Yukon Gold potatoes 1 bulb garlic 4 T. olive oil salt and pepper 5 sprigs fresh rosemary, sage, thyme or a combination
Ingredients 1 leftover chicken carcass 1 medium carrot 1 stalk celery Vegetable trimmings including leftover carrot peels and onion trimmings Aromatics including bay leaf or garlic 1 T. apple cider vinegar
Instructions Preheat the oven to 475° Fahrenheit. Peel and chop the carrots, onions and potatoes into pieces roughly the same size. Save scraps to use later. Break apart the garlic cloves, but do not peel. Set half aside. Spread the vegetables and garlic into an even layer on a roasting pan. Drizzle with half the olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Toss. Rinse the chicken and dry thoroughly, including inside the cavity. Stuff the cavity with the herbs and the remaining garlic cloves. Rub the chicken all over with the remaining olive oil more salt and pepper. Put the chicken into the oven. Immediately reduce the heat to 425° Fahrenheit. Roast for approximately 1 hour 20 minutes, or until juices run clear. Add a small amount of water to the pan if the vegetables look like they’re burning. Remove the chicken and vegetables from the oven. Cover the chicken with foil and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Carve and serve with vegetables.
Instructions Add all ingredients to a slow cooker. Cover completely with water. Cook on low for 10-24 hours. Continue adding water if it evaporates. Strain broth through a fine mesh sieve. Store in the refrigerator for up to one week or the freezer for up to three months.
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RETREAT
horticulture HIGH UP
BY JAMIE NEWMAN
Verdura lends Chicago restaurants a self-sustaining hand by helping them build and maintain their very own rooftop vegetable gardens. Blume steps inside the space the company constructed at the city’s Palmer House Hilton.
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he City of Chicago prides itself on fostering almost 5.5 million square feet of green roof coverage throughout the city. A portion of that is dedicated to the city’s 359 vegetated roofs (about a 5:1 ratio, according to CityofChicago.org). Chicago Palmer House Hilton is home to a massive garden, high above the streets of the bustling Chicago Loop. The 140-year-old hotel’s 25th-floor rooftop garden hosts 84 raised boxes of vegetation. The 2,000-square-foot garden cultivates varieties of tomatoes, peppers, herbs, greens, peas, arugula and more. There are even two beehives that produce 20-40 gallons of honey each year. Most of the food grown on the 25th floor is for the hotel’s main restaurant, Lockwood. The vegetated roof was created by Verdura and is one of the company’s largest projects. Verdura specializes in creating a seasonlong garden plan for its clients. The company was founded by Sara Gasbarra as a result of her favorite hobby. When she was on summer breaks from college at DePaul University, where she studied art history, Sara consistently found herself at her parents’ suburban home tending to their garden. She began to volunteer at the city’s Green City Market’s Edible
Gardens in Lincoln Park, which she eventually became in charge of. In 2011, Sara’s skills caught the attention of local businesses, including Hilton Chicago. She drew up a business plan, hired members for her team, and thus, Verdura was born. “Verdura’s gardens are specifically tailored to the needs of a restaurant kitchen,” Sara says. “We source unique and rare varieties of plants and vegetables, utilize organic growing practices, custom design irrigation systems and practice urban farming in unconventional spaces.” Self-proclaimed “lead garden girl” Sara tends to The Palmer House’s garden every two weeks to check on the plants and make sure they are growing to her standards. If they’re not doing well, she will do any necessary replanting. The plants are self-irrigating and set on a timer so they can withstand the cosmopolitan oasis’ hot, summer days. “You know, rooftops are all wasted space,” says Val Brenner, sous chef at The Palmer House. “There are some tweaks you have to learn about gardening 25 stories up, but it's not any more work, it's just a few tweaks. But honestly, everybody in Chicago should be doing this.”
This is a 2,000 square-foot garden on the 25th floor of the Palmer House Hilton in Chicago
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final touch
MAKE YOUR BLOOMS
measure up The most popular flowers for springtime include daffodils, tulips and hydrangeas. Here are steps to make the perfect arrangement.
1. Cut the stems and strip the leaves. Before you place
the flowers in an arrangement, it is necessary to cut the stems. This allows the flowers to absorb water more easily, which keeps them fresh. Cut the flower stems diagonally, at least an inch from the ends, using a sharp knife or garden shears.
2. Pay attention to height and width. The height and width of your arrangement is another factor to consider when making your bouquet.
>> The general rule when it comes to height is that your arrangement should be one-and-a-half times the height of the vase or container it’s held in.
>> There’s no clear-cut rule when it comes to the width of your arrangement, but it should be wide enough to balance out the height. >> Rotate the arrangement as you work to ensure that the height and width are even on both sides. 3. Add the larger, more dominant flowers first. When you begin working on the arrangement, start with the largest or most prominent variety of flower first. 4. Layer the flowers as you go. Once you have finished with the first circle of flowers, move on to the second and use a different variety of flower.
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