FFWMAG #37 Neo Spirit

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neo spirit e n g l i s h c o nte nt

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Helena Rizzo por Eudes Santana

neo spirit

37 2014

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# AMOMODAAMOBRASIL

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Tecnologia e Presentes A2YOU FRATTINA MONTBLANC SPICY LIVRARIA CULTURA EXPAND

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É uma delícia sentir o poder revitalizante da Vinoterapia Nativa SPA. Mas melhor ainda Ê sentir sua pele linda.

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20

Juan Francisco Casas

26

36

Against the flow

Fashion Jeaneration

32

Blue jeans

52

58

Fashion’s new game

Ornamental Conifer

SUMMARY 106 60

94

104

100

Creative chaos

High fashion meets streetwear

Kevin Francis Gray

Carnivorous flower

Kanye West +Vanessa Beecroft +Maison Martin MargIela

114

Bling days

120

Karol Conkรก

132

128

Fashion Take a walk on the wild side

Gia Coppola

168

Fashion Body in Motion

124

I think OSGEMEOS

178

Red Beauty

NEO SPIRIT 188

Conversation Nicola Formichetti

122

Lykke Li

196

Conversation Graeme McMillan

184

Conversation Karen Fuke

200

Talk Adriana Bozon

192

Conversation Brendon Babenzien

Adriano Damas

Bruno Rezende

CĂĄssia Tabatini

Artist, he worked as a graphic designer before launching himself as a photographer three years ago. From Londrina, ParanĂĄ, he wants “to create images that bring something extra to the fashion industryâ€?. He enjoys movies and is obsessed with QRYHOW\ 0DWHULDO GUHDP Âł7R KDYH D SHUVRQDO FKHI´ -HDQV WR UHPHPEHU D SDLU IURP 'LHVHO ERXJKW LQ Rome, at 17. “I wore it even after it was torn.â€?

Digital retouch, he is from Jandira, SĂŁo Paulo. About his profession, he loves “to see the before and after of each workâ€?. In his free time, he sleeps and goes to the movies. He doesn’t live without God and dreams of seeing the world. The project he’s the proudest of is the campaign for Hope with Gisele BĂźndchen. He says he doesn’t remember KLV ÂżUVW SDLU RI MHDQV Âł,ÂśG KDYH WR DVN P\ PRP´

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7KH QHZFRPHU LV WLUHG RI XQIXO¿OOHG SURPLVHV DQG FDQœW GR ZLWKRXW VXQJODVVHV DQG FR̆HH From Monte Alto, São Paulo, she has degrees on graphic design and photography, and also works with art direction and scenography. 5HFHQWO\ ¿QLVKHG SURMHFW )257 0$*$=,1( IRFXVHG RQ PDOH SRUWUDLWV )LUVW MHDQV ³, ZDV it was a Wrangler. I wore it until I outgrew it�.

Chialin Chiang

Cris Biato

Daniel Ueda

For her, the coolest thing about being a stylist is being able to “translate personalities into imagesâ€?. From SĂŁo Paulo, she was brought up in San Francisco, California. Empty complaints and bad mood bother her. She wishes to have an eco-house and to make documentaries. The pair of denim that stuck ZLWK KHU ZDV IURP )RUXP Âł, ZRXOG UDUHO\ ZDVK LW and I felt closer to SĂŁo Paulo whenever I wore itâ€?.

She is a social educator and a makeup artist from Londrina, ParanĂĄ. Her professional goal is to expand her knowledge in beauty. Faith is ZKDW PRYHV KHU 0DWHULDO GUHDP WUDYHOOLQJ WR Japan with her husband and “having a lot of PRQH\ LQ KHU SRFNHW´ 8QIRUJHWWDEOH MHDQV Âł$ jacket from Ellus that I bought in 1994. I wore it in every possible occasionâ€?.

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The stylist from Bauru, SĂŁo Paulo, says he likes every part of his work and everything that LQYROYHV KLV SURIHVVLRQ Âł, ORYH IDVKLRQ´ ,Q KLV free time, he stays at home “doing nothingâ€?. He doesn’t live without his family and has had LW ZLWK %UD]LOLDQ SROLWLFV +LV ÂżUVW H[SHULHQFH with jeans was at 10. “It was from Zoomp. I’d QHYHU WDNH WKHP R̆´

Eudes de Santana

Gabriel Marchi

Gi Macedo

3KRWRJUDSKHU JUDSKLF GHVLJQHU DQG ÂżOmmaker, he lives between SĂŁo Paulo, Berlin, and London. He likes to travel and get togeWKHU ZLWK IULHQGV 3URMHFW Âł/HWWLQJ P\ SURIHVsion take me to unexpected and interesting places and peopleâ€?. As a child, he remembers “having superpowers at school’s gatheringsâ€? whenever he wore his white Levi’s.

The journalist from SĂŁo Paulo tells what pleases KLP PRVW DERXW WKH SURIHVVLRQ Âł7KH SRVVLELOLW\ to stimulate debates and be a transformation agentâ€?. In his free time, he listens to a lot of music. He can’t live without friends and wants to write a book. Up to age 12, he didn’t wear jeans. “I hated them. Then I saw The Strokes on TV ZHDULQJ VNLQQ\ MHDQV DQG , ERXJKW P\ ÂżUVW SDLU´

The stylist from SĂŁo Paulo is also a newcomer. 6KH VWXGLHG IDVKLRQ ZDV D ÂżOP LQWHUQ LQ *HUmany, and worked with art direction. In her free time, she travels with her boyfriend. She ZDQWV WR PDNH D IHDWXUH ÂżOP DQG FDQÂśW VWDQG K\SRFULV\ 0DWHULDO GUHDP D EHDFK KRXVH 7KH jeans that stuck with her were a high-waist pair from US TOP. “I thought I was the bombâ€?.

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O O O

Hick Duarte

Jorge Grimberg

Lau Neves

From Uberlândia, Minas Gerais, this photographer and journalism student can’t do without his camera and caps. He says the cool thing about KLV SURIHVVLRQ LV WUDYHOOLQJ DQG PHHWLQJ GL̆HUHQW people. He wants to document youth culture from places like Tokyo and Dubai and is tired of online OLIH RFFXS\LQJ RI KLV GD\ +LV ÂżUVW MHDQV ZHUH a Christmas’ gift “at a family lunch in the countryâ€?.

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He is a writer, consultant, and researcher. From 6mR 3DXOR KH OLYHV EHWZHHQ 6mR 3DXOR DQG 1HZ York. He can no longer stand people complain DERXW %UD]LO Âł*HW D MRE ´ +H LV QHYHU ZLWKRXW a plane ticket and wants to spend one month in the Mediterranean islands. At 11, he begged his PRP WR EX\ D SDLU RI MHDQV IURP 0 2̇FHU Âł,W ZDV D VHPL EDJ , WKRXJKW , ZDV VR FRRO ´

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For him, what’s cool about being a makeup and hair artist is executing the ideas that spring from his head. Born in Bonito, Mato Grosso do Sul, he wants to apply his professional experience to develop volunteer work. He spends his free time listening to vinyl with friends. His jeans to UHPHPEHU ZDV D VWRQHZDVKHG SDLU IURP =RRPS Âł, ORYHG WKHP VR PXFK , QHYHU WRRN WKHP R̆´

Marcela Duarte

Marcio Simnch

Michael Vendola

Born in Porto Alegre, she is a journalist with a plan to work abroad. Between the delights RI KHU PpWLHU VKH HQMR\V PHHWLQJ GL̆HUHQW people and getting to know a little about their lives. Drink in hand, she wants to have money WR OLYH HDFK \HDU LQ D GL̆HUHQW SODFH 7KH MHDQV WKDW VWXFN ZLWK KHU ZDV XVHG LQ WKH ÂżIWK JUDGH IURP -LQJOHUV Âł, WKRXJKW , ZDV WKH EHVW ´

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He is from Giruå, Rio Grande do Sul. Photographer, he says that the most interesting thing about his profession is diversity. He has several projects to accomplish, is sick of smoking, and needs peace to live. When he is not working, he catches up on sleep, and can’t UHPHPEHU D VLQJOH H[SHULHQFH ZLWK MHDQV ³, don’t pay too much attention to that�.

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The stylist is from Colorado, USA. He currently OLYHV LQ 1< :KHQ KH LV IUHH KH SDFNV KLV EDJ DQG WUDYHOV 3URIHVVLRQDO SURMHFW EXLOG D FROOHFWLRQ with articles from Yes, Brazil, brand from the 1990’s. He loves sparkling water and wants a pair of slide sandals from Raf Simons SS15. As a child, he had a pair of jeans allovers from GAP .LGV Âł,ÂśG OLNH WR KDYH WKHP WRGD\ RQ P\ VL]H´

Silvio Giorgio

Tavinho Costa

Thiago Ferraz

From Manacapuru, Amazonas, he is a makeup artist and wants to launch a book about beauty. He can’t do without his iPhone and is tired of Brazilian politics. In his free time, he likes to dine with friends and go to the gym. Back in his adolescence, he dreamed of owning a pair of jeans from )RUXP ³, FRQYLQFHG P\ GDG WR EX\ PH D SDLU ,W took a while, but I did it. I wore it every weekend�.

He is always in pursuit of a dream and the greatest of them all is travelling on the Trans-Siberian. Born in FlorianĂłpolis, Santa Catarina, the photographer rather focuses on regular people. In his free time, he goes to the movies and travels. As a teen, he liked to skate and madly wanted pants from Vision Street Wear. “I won a pair and wore until it wore outâ€?.

The stylist says that what he enjoys most about his profession is collaborating with people he DGPLUHV )URP 6mR 3DXOR KH GUHDPV RI ÂżQGLQJ “a place outside SPâ€? to live. He is addicted to apps and, in his free time, likes to hang out ZLWK IULHQGV ÂłGRLQJ ZKDWHYHU´ +LV ÂżUVW MHDQV ZHUH D Âł, KDG WR FXVWRPL]H WKHP IRU D party at schoolâ€?.

R

E

S

PUBLISHER

Paulo Borges

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTORS

Augusto Mariotti

camilayahn@ffw.com.br

Aaron Walker, Adriano Damas, Bill Macintyre, Bruno Rezende, Cássia Tabatini, Cecília Macedo, Chialin Chiang, Cris Biato, Daniel Ueda, Eudes de Santana, Gabriel Marchi, Gi Macedo, Hick Duarte, João Lourenço, Jorge Grimberg, Lau Neves, Luele Furquim, Marcela Duarte, Marcelo Nascimento, Marcio Simnch, Mario Daloia, Michael Vendola, Paulo Terron, Rafael Melo Ramos, Sandor Kiss, Silvio Giorgio, Tavinho Costa, Thiago Ferraz, Zee Nunes

EDITOR

ADVERTISING

augusto@luminosidade.com.br EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Mauro Braga mauro@luminosidade.com.br EDITOR IN CHIEF

Camila Yahn

Marcos Guinoza

Luciana Eschiapati luciana@luminosidade.com.br

EDITOR ASSISTANT

Kátia Lessa

ADVERTISEMENT ASSISTANT

Tania Leone

CASTING

Luiz Henrique Costa ART DIRECTOR

Gabriel Finotti

DISTRIBUTION

Assessoria Edicase www.edicase.com.br Fernando Chinaglia (21) 2192 3200 GRAPHIC PRODUCTION

DESIGNER

Frederico Floeter

Jairo da Rocha and Daniel da Rocha PREPRESS

DESIGN ASSISTANT

Cecília De Lucca

Retrato Falado FINAL PRINTING

PROOFREADER

Luciana Sanches TRANSLATION

Luciana Braga Lumi 05 is not responsible for the content of the ads published in this magazine nor does it guarantee that the promises made by such will be fulfilled.

lumi 05 marketing e propaganda ltda. Av. 9 de Julho 4.927 / 4.939 - Torre Jardim (A) - 9th floor 01407 200 - São Paulo - SP Tel 55 11 3077 4877 | ffwmag@luminosidade.com.br WWW.FFW.COM.BR INSTAGRAM: @FFW WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/FFW

Ipsis A FFWMAG (ISSN 1809-8304) is published by Editora Lumi 05 Marketing e Propaganda Ltda. All rights reserved It is prohibited to fully or partially reproduce the editorial content in this magazine without the pre-authorization. The articles herein are of the responsibility of the authors and do not reflect the opinion of the magazine. Capa Adriano Ruchinski: t-shirt worn as mask À La Garçonne; photo Zee Nunes; styling Daniel Ueda; beaty Silvio Giorgio. Capa Helena Rizzo: est Ellus and shirt Maria Filó; photo Eudes de Santana; styling Michael Vendola; beaty Cria Biato.

CARTA

I N( J EAN S) PE N S ABLE

J

eans are a fundamental item in the nation’s wardrobe, seen as the main engine of Brazilian fashion industry. Currently, Brazil is the second largest producer of indigo and the third consumer market in the world. It is clear that Brazilians love denim – and so does FFWMAG! For that reason, we dedicate this issue to it: jeanswear. Indispensable item in all of our closets, jeans are democratic, universal, and immune to trends. Shapes, cuts, forms, and fashions may change, but jeans remain and icon. Besides, it is not only a clothing article; it is a cultural phenomenon, and, throughout its history, it overFDPH UHYROXWLRQV DWWLWXGH FKDQJHV ZDUV Âą DQG JDLQHG D VHULHV RI VLJQLÂżFDQFHV +HUH WKHUH anywhere, jeans are a symbol of youth, freedom, comfort, resistance, versatility. They are almost like a “second skinâ€?; a “loyal companionâ€? for all occasions. Speaking about jeans, fashion, behavior, and style, in the segment “Talkâ€?, we bring exclusive interviews with Karen Fuke, Triton’s creative director; Diesel’s Nicola Formichetti; and Brendon Babezien, from Supreme. In the section “Studioâ€?, we open the doors to Ellus’ Adriana Bozon’s workplace. We also bring an article about Acne, Swedish apparel company who makes one of the most-wanted jeans in the planet. Fashion editorials are signed by duos Zee Nunes/Daniel Ueda; Marcio Simnch/Thiago Ferraz; and by the newcomers CĂĄssia Tabatini and Gi Macedo. The beauty editorial was shot by Adriano Damas; makeup by Lau Neves. Jeans are also motion, transformation, street culture, and FFWMAG hit the road in search for other references we believe have everything to do with our main subject, like streetstyle, street art, and the connection ever closer between hip-hop and fashion, as we see on Kanye West’s recent tour, Yeezus Tour, with scenography by Vanessa Beecroft and costumes by Maison Martin Margiela. Are rappers the new rock stars? SĂŁo Paulo, city that moves the country, where many creative minds converge, appears in RXU SDJHV WKURXJK WKH H\HV RI 0LFKHOOL 3URYHQVL (PLFLGD )HOLSH 0RUR]LQL $QGUp 6WXUP +HOena Rizzo, Leo Capote, Grandja Monteiro, and other characters active in the cultural scene. In the section “I Thinkâ€?, OtĂĄvio and Gustavo Pandolfo, the twin brothers from the duo OSGEMEOS, talk about ten subjects suggested by FFWMAG. 7R ZUDS XS WKLV MHDQV VWUHHWVW\OH VWUHHW FXOWXUH LVVXH ZH WDONHG WR ÂżOPPDNHU *LD &RSSROD WR Swedish singer Lykke Li, to Brazilian rapper Karol ConkĂĄ – reference in style, and the newest female voice in hip-hop –, and to artists Kevin Francis Gray, Nicolai Sclate and Ian Berry. FFWMAG put on its best pair of jeans, realigned its wishes and went to the streets meet with ZKR PDNHV IDVKLRQ LQĂ€XHQFHV EHKDYLRUV DQG TXHVWLRQV WKH ZRUOG ZLWK WKHLU DUW Come and joy us!

Paulo Borges PUBLISHER FFWMAG 37

18

NEO SPIRIT

Hyper-realistic pictures drew with a blue ballpoint pen

ROSEHARDCOREAFTERHOURS

Juan Francisco Casas By Kรกtia Lessa

FFWMAG 37

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ART

GIULIADRINKSTHECLASSICS

SKULLANDBONESAFTERHOURS#3

JUAN FRANCISCO CASAS

ISHARTTOBEANARTIST/THEDANISHABUSE#4

FFWMAG 37

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ART

JUAN FRANCISCO CASAS

J

uan Francisco Casas has always been close to the object that made him famous. Model student, born in Jaen, Spain, in KH JUDGXDWHG LQ ¿QH DUWV IURP 8QLYHUVLW\ RI *UDQDGD

LQ DV WKH ¿UVW RI KLV FODVV $ \HDU ODWHU KH UHFHLYHG D JUDQW IRU teacher prep and research, and taught drawing and illustration at WKH GUDZLQJ GHSDUWPHQW DW 8QLYHUVLW\ RI *UDQDGD ZKLOH JHWWLQJ KLV doctorate in the same institution. ,Q D VKRUW WLPH SDLQWV EUXVKHV DQG VSDWXODV JDYH ZD\ WR DQ HYHU\GD\ REMHFW D EOXH EDOOSRLQW SHQ 3HQV SUHYLRXVO\ XVHG WR HQVXUH KH JRW DQ $ LQ VFKRRO DFTXLUHG D QHZ VWDWXV ZKHQ KH VWDUWHG drawing with them. The technic used in the pictures that made him famous is pen on paper. That simple. Most of them come from pictures he takes using a regular digital camera, which he carries in his pocket, and QR OLJKWLQJ HTXLSPHQW $IWHUZDUGV WKH SLFWXUHV DUH WUDQVIRUPHG into hyper-realistic illustrations of accurate pen strokes that make spectators wonder if they are really standing in front of a sketch. The drawings are so perfect that people actually doubt they are VLPSO\ LOOXVWUDWLRQV ,Q DQ LQWHUYLHZ IRU WKH Daily Mail, in February KH VDLG ³,W VWDUWHG RXW DV D MRNH , ZDQWHG WR GR VRPHWKLQJ so realistic and make people think it was a photograph. The idea ZDV WR FUHDWH VRPHWKLQJ XVLQJ DQ REMHFW HYHU\RQH KDV D %,& SHQ´ (YHU\GD\ VFHQHV RI \RXQJ SHRSOH LQ SDUWLHV DQG ZRPHQ LQ VH[\ SRVHV DUH DPRQJ WKH VXEMHFWV KH H[SORUHV WKH PRVW DQG EHVLGHV EHLQJ LQ LQGLYLGXDO H[KLELWLRQV KDYH EHFRPH ERRNV VXFK DV Juan Francisco Casas – Drawing (2012) and (A)utopic (2014), the latWHU D FROOHFWLRQ RI VHO¿HV VHQW E\ IDQV WR EH WXUQHG LQWR LOOXVWUDWLRQV ,Q KH ZDV DZDUGHG WKH SUHVWLJLRXV SUL]H $%& LQ 0DGULG $IWHU WKDW KLV ZRUN JDLQHG UHOHYDQFH DQG ZDOO VSDFH LQ LPSRUWDQW galleries not only in Spain, but also in other art epicenters around the world, like New York, London, and Basel. ,Q QR WLPH KLV EOXH EDOOSRLQW SHQ VNHWFKHV ZHUH H[SRVHG QH[W WR WKH ZRUN RI IHOORZ FRXQWU\PHQ 'DOL 3LFDVVR DQG 0LUy LQ WKH WK DQG VW FHQWXU\ FROOHFWLYH VKRZLQJ RI 6SDQLVK $UW Hola! Spain – Spanish Modern and Contemporary Art DW WKH $UW &HQWHU of Seongnam, South Korea From mere scribbles in his college books, his pieces now cost WKRXVDQGV RI GROODUV LQ UHQRZQHG DUW JDOOHULHV $QG ZK\ DUH WKH\ DOO LQ EOXH" ³, ZDQWHG SHRSOH WR NQRZ IRU VXUH WKH\ ZHUH UHDOO\ PDGH ZLWK D SHQ´ KH VD\V -JUANFRANCISCOCASAS.COM | INSTAGRAM: @JUANFRANCISCOCASAS More photos on FFW.COM.BR

FFWMAG 37

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ART

JUAN FRANCISCO CASAS

Sem título

FFWMAG 37

25

ART

Acne Studios + William Wegman

Against the ow How Acne Studios, following unconventional marketing strategies, became one of the most desirable jeans labels in the world By Kåtia Lessa

O

ne of the favorite pair of jeans of the likes of Rihanna and

KROP ,W GLGQÂśW WDNH ORQJ IRU WKH GHQLP ZLWK ÂżYH SRFNHWV DQG UHG

Alexa Chung comes from a company that had never made

stitching, to become a product of desire and soon feature in fashion

a single clothing article. In 1996, Jonny Johansson and

editorials in magazines Wallpaper, Vogue Paris, and Elle Sweden.

three other friends combined their savings, about 10,000 euros, to

The success took the group by surprise and, reluctantly, they

IRUP D FUHDWLYH FROOHFWLYH WKDW ZRUNHG DV D FRQVXOWDQW LQ ÂżOP DQG

started making other items, such as t-shirts. Then, one of the most

digital design in Stockholm, Sweden.

desired apparel company in the world was born, and not only when

Acne – whose name brings to mind the skin malady, but that

the topic is denim. According to The Wall Street Journal, the Ac-

actually is an acronym of “ambition to create novel expressions�

ne’s revenues reached U$ 112 million in 2013. Not bad for an initial

– was inspired by Factory, Andy Warhol’s studio, responsible for

investment of 10,000 euros. Acne – now Acne Studios – whose light pink shopping bags

stirring up New York artistic scenery in the 1960’s. A year after launching the company, the troupe felt like cre-

DUH HDVLO\ LGHQWLÂżHG RQ WKH VWUHHWV LV LQ FRXQWULHV 7KHUH DUH

ating a product, despite their lack of experience in the fashion in-

clothing stores, including addresses outside the fashion circuit like

dustry. Before becoming creative director of the label, Johansson

Australia and South Korea. The Swedish label’s products are also

worked as a furniture designer and thought he would follow his

sold on stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Harrods, Barneys New

father’s footsteps in music.

York, and Le Bon MarchĂŠ.

The result was one hundred pairs of unwashed jeans, which

Currently, the group is divided in Acne Advertising; Acne Pro-

ZHUH JLYHQ DZD\ WR DUWLVWV ÂżOPPDNHUV DQG GHVLJQHUV LQ 6WRFN-

duction, ahead of digital media; Acne Entertainment, in charge of

FFWMAG 37

27

FASHION

SoHo store, NY

ACNE STUDIOS

Resort, 2014

FFWMAG 37

29

FASHION

ACNE STUDIOS

Book Rodeo: Bruce of Los Angeles

TV content; and the fashion division, which includes Acne Paper,

interviews and photo shoots with famous actresses such as Isabelle

Acne Studios, and Acne Junior.

Huppert, last edition’s cover. “Acne Paper is our crown jewel�, said

7KH PDLQ ÀDJVKLS UHPDLQV LQ 6WRFNKROP LQ DQ DUW QRXYHDX

Johansson to Interview. For him, the triumph of the magazine is

building that housed a famous bank in which, during a robbery in

due to the fact that they are able to channel the spare creative ener-

1973, hostages developed a bond with criminals. The Syndrome of

gy and the ability to go to the streets, connect with people, and not

Stockholm owes its name to that incident.

worry about pleasing the industry. Throughout the years, the label became a synonym of minimal-

$JDLQVW WKH ÀRZ

istic design, title disputed by Johansson. In an interview for British

Acne’s key of success follows an unorthodox recipe and is based

Vogue, during London Fashion Week, he stated that, if you look

on a business model that values instinct. Take store location, for in-

closely, you can notice that the brand explores vivid colors and

stance. Most times, Acne is not found in the hipper neighborhoods

even animal print. The idea is to reinvent the classics and surprise.

of cities like London and Tokyo. On the other hand, it couldn’t es-

2Q WKH UDFNV WKH FORWKHV PHWLFXORXVO\ ÂżQLVKHG UHPDLQ FXUUHQW

cape from showrooms in Paris and fashion weeks Paris, since 2012,

and may be used seasons to come.

and London, since 2011.

Despite their famous denim, one of Acne’s top selling – and

Collaborations also don’t follow a common logic. They range

reproduced – articles is the pistol boot, leather ankle boots with a

from bicycles in partnership with the oldest manufacturer in the

low, chunky stacked heel, round toe, and stitched paneling, popu-

world, Italian Bianchi Bicycles, to a capsule-collection with Lanvin,

lar among urban women.

to works with magazine Candy, dedicated to transsexuals.

Be it in the boots, in the perfectly cut jackets or in the widely

Contrary to other must-have labels, directors do not invest

known pair of jeans, what is unanimous about Acne is the design

heavily on conventional ads staring Hollywood celebrities or su-

DNA and the certainty that people will always like quality prod-

permodels. They prefer artistic videos featuring children or dogs

ucts. And that, Swedish learn from birth.

and high-end photography books. There is still the magazine Acne

—

Paper, a biannual publication launched in 2005 directed by Thom-

ACNESTUDIOS.COM | INSTAGRAM: @ACNESTUDIOS

as Persson, who Johansson considers one of the most inventive

See the entire collection from Acne’s A/W 2015 on FFW.COM.BR

persons he’s ever met. The magazine contains little advertising DQG H[SORUHV VXEMHFWV WKDW JR IURP D SUR¿OH RI D 3RUWXJXHVH IRON singer to long essays from philosophers like Noam Chomsky, to

FFWMAG 37

31

FASHION

Blue jeans By Marcos Guinoza

Ian Berry: in place of brush and paint, jeans

Punk London

Gisele , work specially made for FFWMAG

FFWMAG 37

34

ART

The Rebel

F

irst, a warning: the images that go with this text may look

It all started with his own jeans. “It was interesting because

like paintings when they are, in fact, reproductions of art-

WKH\ KDG VR PXFK KLVWRU\ DQG PHPRULHV DWWDFKHG WR WKHP ´ 7R-

works made with pieces of denim.

day, he uses new as well as worn jeans. “I buy them from vintage

That being said, let’s move on to Ian Berry, the artist.

stores, charity shops, and I also receive a lot of donations from all

(QJOLVK IURP +XGGHUVÂżHOG ORFDWHG NLORPHWHUV QRUWK RI

over the world – by the way, I’m still waiting for some from Brazil.

London, Berry used to work as an art director, and created cam-

6RPHWLPHV , ÂżQG WKHP RQ P\ GRRUVWHS OLWHUDOO\ , RSHQ WKH GRRU

paigns for brands such as Nissan and Guiness, before he fully com-

DQG VRPHWLPHV D EDJ LV OHIW WKHUH ´ +H DOVR KDV WKH VXSSRUW RI VRPH

mitted himself to art.

companies, like Pepe Jeans London.

It was during a trip back to his hometown, when he came

When asked about the value of one of his pieces in the art

across a pile of worn jeans destined to a charity institution, that he

world, he simply says: “I let the galleries take care of that. Catto

had the idea to use denim as the medium for his art. “My interest

Gallery, in London, does an amazing job for me. I prefer to keep it

started simply by the aesthetic value of denim. It fascinates me to

DERXW WKH DUW´

H[SORUH WKH FRPELQDWLRQ RI GL̆HUHQW VKDSHV WH[WXUHV DQG FRORUV ´

Currently living in a rural area in Sweden, he misses the life in

6RRQ DIWHU PDNLQJ WKH ÂżUVW IHZ SLHFHV KH IHOW ÂłD VWURQJHU FRQQHF-

the big metropolis. “I crave New York and London, the depth and

WLRQ WR GHQLP´ DQG HYHQ DGRSWHG DQRWKHU QDPH 'HQLPX DV KH LV

WH[WXUH RI WKH IDEULF RI WKHVH FLWLHV ´ )RU KLP MHDQV DUH WKH RQO\ PD-

also known.

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More photos on FFW.COM.BR

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Photo Cássia Tabatini :: Styling Gi Macedo

BEAUTY LAU NEVES (CAPA MGT) HAIR CECÍLIA MACEDO PHOTO TREATMENT AARON FRANCIS WALKER STUDIO MANAGER ELAINE CASSETTI FASHION MANAGER LEILA PIGATTO PRODUCTION JULIE BUCH BEAUTY ASSISTANT PATRICK PONTES PHOTO ASSISTANTS GAEL OLIVEIRA E GUILHERME DALVI HAIR ASSISTANT TAYRINE PROVIDELE MODELS DÉBORA WAGATSUMA (FORD), LORENA MARASCHI (WAY), PAULO SCHULZ (JOY) GUEST MODELS GLEESON PAULINO, NATASHA HOLLINGER, TOBIAS PERGOLA

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Débora top AMAPÔ stockings LUPO

Paulo pants TRITON shoes DEMOCRATA

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Débora top VITORINO CAMPOS pants AMAPÔ shoes LUCAS NASCIMENTO

Natasha shirt LEVI’S sweatshirt DIESEL pants JEANSERIA boots JUISI BY LICQUOR

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Paulo jeans jumper VIDE BULA

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Paulo coat DIANE VON FURSTENBERG pants TRITON

Paulo t-shirt G.ROCK jacket LEVI’S pants ELLUS

Débora top VERSACE shorts LANÇA PERFUME choker G.ROCK bracelets VERSACE (right hand), SKULL and DTHALES at CHOIX boots MINHA AVÓ TINHA

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Paulo turtleneck HERMÈS belt WALTÃO pants LEVI’S

The new fashion game Streetstyle in Brazil and in the world generates controversy, desire, and a lot of money By Jorge Grimberg :: Photos Tommy Ton

STREETSTYLE

F

ashion professionals are strong critics of the democratization happening to their own universe. Something like the wrath of journalists – when blogs were born – happens today, in the fashion world, with the sudden emergence of fab-

ricated celebrities, both loved and hated by millions. Fashionistas’ universe was taken by – beware – “normalâ€? people. What, in the pre-internet era, was a secret club – fashion shows, cocktail parties, private presentations – have become a free park where all interested parts are “welcomedâ€? to join in and interact. To become a part of it, all you have to do is take pictures (of yourself) and post them online. The result comes in the shape of likes, followers, invitations, and sponsors. Before all that freedom of expression, you almost had to go out in a costume if \RX ZDQWHG WR EH QRWLFHG Âł0\ RXWÂżWV DUH DOZD\V YHU\ HFFHQWULF , GRQÂśW RZQ QRUPDO FORWKHV ,ÂśP YHU\ OLEHUDO DERXW WKDW´ VD\V /\QQ <DHJHU IDVKLRQ HGLWRU RI Vogue Amer-

LFD DQG RQH RI WKH PRVW H[RWLF ÂżJXUHV RI WKH LQWHUQDWLRQDO FLUFXLW /\QQ LV D FDULFDWXUH of herself and, for decades, has been in articles in newspapers and magazines for her authenticity and characteristics. ,Q WKH QHZ IDVKLRQ JDPH HFFHQWULFLW\ LV QRW WKDW UHOHYDQW DQ\PRUH VLQFH HYHU\WKLQJ LV IRU VDOH DQG ODEHOV GRQÂśW JLYH ZD\ WR ZKDW WKH\ FDQÂśW WXUQ LQWR D SURÂżW 7KH word of the moment is conversion. And that scenario is a result of a much greater change in consumer behavior. Âł6WUHHWV ZHUH DOZD\V D VRXUFH RI WUHQGV VLQFH WKH\ UHĂ€HFW ZKDW SHRSOH DUH UHDOO\ DGRSWLQJ LQ WHUPV RI VW\OH DQG ORRNV´ UHFNRQV ,VKDP 6DUGRXN FKLHI FUHDWLYH ṘFHU DW 6W\OHVLJKW WUHQG EXUHDX EDVHG LQ 1HZ <RUN )RU SURIHVVLRQDOV OLNH 6DUGRXN VWUHHWwear is a tool that demonstrates through the way people present themselves trends that emerge from subcultures that can become a commercial hit. Up to that point, streetwear pictures were privileged information for executives and designers, who invest in fabrics and shapes before anyone else does. Even fashion shows were exclusive for editors, who only revealed the details of what the saw on the runways months later in special editorials. 7KH ÂżUVW VWUHHWVW\OH EORJV VWDUWHG WR XVH WKH IUHHGRP RI WKH ,QWHUQHW WR SRVW SLFtures of interesting people in the streets around the planet. Avant-garde professionals VXFK DV 7RPP\ 7RQ 6FRWW 6FKXPDQ DQG <YDQ 5RGLF ZKR E\ DFFLGHQW WUDQVIRUPHG their passion and hobby into a new business model, unaware of how, when they started out, they would make a living from it. The precursors of the streetstyle movement spread much more than their view, they created the culture of learning how to see people through new eyes, of interpreting urban codes, and, soon, turning real people and real situations into a source of inspiration. “Fashion editors use streetstyle very well as a thermometer to understand what trends are sticking, which brands are excelling and being liked by peopleâ€?, says Daniela FalcĂŁo, editorial director of Vogue Brazil.

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STREETSTYLE

Lynn Yaeger

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STREETSTYLE

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FASHION

STREETSTYLE

“Blogs that post the look of the day changed the way people see fashion, because they translated how real women can adopt a trend.�

Because of the blogs, we know that

have more photographers with a good eye

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WKHUH LV D GL̆HUHQW VW\OH LQ 1HZ <RUN DQ-

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come backstage to get to know the collec-

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motivate streetstyle, and discover a wider

tion and to understand what it is about.

they are all unique in their own way. The

variety of categories. Otherwise, we won’t

The shows are made for buyers and press

elements are revealed constantly and new

scape the language of the ghetto or the so-

who are educated on fabrics and construc-

icons appear, calling everyone’s attention

cial columns�, says Costanza. Daniela Fal-

tion of each article�, says young designer

to strengthen the identity of each city. At

cĂŁo sees the true streetstyle as an expres-

Vitorino Campos.

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sion of people who, famous or not, convey

Today, executive and designers are

icons become references of style, as is the

information about trends. “What’s good

faced with the challenge of understand-

case of American Nick Wooster, known as

about streetstyle is capturing a trend.�

ing how to place themselves in this new

the best dressed man in the world. And

As a part of our culture, blogs that post

PDUNHW Âł, GRQÂśW WKLQN HYHU\RQH LQYHVWV LQ

soon, with the second wave of streetstyle

daily looks of their owners have prevailed

those kinds of blogs to sell clothes. Small

blogs, we were introduced to a new icon

over streetstyle blogs. “The ones that post

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model: the celebrity bloggers. Nowadays,

look of the day changed the way people see

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blogs in Brazil are already launched with

fashion, because they translated how the

paying a blogger�, declares Daniela.

media kits and banners. “The looks are

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The disparity between the depth of

shot one day a week and the bloggers come

to take a good picture in the street, without

well-founded information and the empty

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second that can make you look stunning�,

es the wrath of fashion intellectuals, who

of building a brand, they are simply selling

states Alice Ferraz, fashion executive in

want to be respected and, especially, not

products�, states Daniela.

SĂŁo Paulo and founder of f*hits, an online

be relegated to the second row. “What

platform that hosts 25 blogs.

is important about a fashion show is not

,Q %UD]LO ZH DOVR KDYH RXU 1LFN Woosters. Fashion professionals who are

The sort of information propagated

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known for their personal style and talent,

by Brazilian blogs creates an unrealistic

WR XQGHUVWDQG WKH FROOHFWLRQ JOREDOO\ ,I

but who don’t have a blog. These become

aspirational universe – a world of daily

bloggers, who have so many followers, did

admired and revered by all, and are pho-

extravagant clothes, sophisticated events,

that, it would be nice�, adds Campos.

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Streetstyle pictures in SĂŁo Paulo, during

‘branding’ of my fashion personality�, says

product conception and design. These new

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Costanza Pascolato, the eternal muse of

characters are a source of inspiration to

trends and behavior moods because there

Brazilian fashion. Costanza is probably the

the end consumer. “The new generation

is a great controversy between what is orig-

only example of spontaneous and unani-

lacks modesty and deals well with that.

inal and what is not. Dualities crash just

PRXV VXFFHVV ,W LV OLNHO\ WKDW PRVW RI KHU

They are consumers, not readers. We are

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talking about pure consumerism. The blog

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time during SPFW – have never read one

that sells clothing is very connected to

for wanting to make a lot of money�, says

of the brilliant articles she writes. Her rec-

shopping, and that makes it complicated

/\QQ EHIRUH FRPSOHWLQJ Âł, WKLQN SHRSOH

ognition comes from the impeccable image

to build a fashion image�, ponders Daniela.

who are honest, serious, and do a good job

she presents.

For the designers, this new business is

Besides our fashion icons and bloggers,

cause for controversy when the time comes

we have a wide, though shy, “look of the

to understand how far they should go to

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there is a new street fashion movement in

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there should be a search for knowledge.

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58

ART

Ornamental Conifer

My name is Nicolai Sclater and I work under the moniker Ornamental Conifer. I’m 30 years old and I was born in England, although I have recently been living in Australia and am currently moving to America to live with my wife. I started painting when I was very young. As a child I was given art material and books instead of a television and video games. I later became heavily LQYROYHG LQ JUDIÂżWL DQG VSHQW PRVW RI P\ WLPH SODQQLQJ DQG SDLQWLQJ WUDLQV that lead on to an interest in graphic design and whilst living in London, I worked commercially for many years for various brands and magazines. My inĂ€XHQFHV FRPH IURP DOO RYHU UDQJLQJ IURP FRPLF ERRNV IRON DUW ÂżQH DUW SRS art and contemporary illustration, and fashion. I look at everything and draw inspiration from my surroundings wherever I am, hence the reason I like to move around and travel a lot, keeping the ideas fresh and the stimulus brand new. Painting jackets was a natural progression for me as I loved the old imagery from the Second World War and biker jackets, but hated what they stood for. I do not like war and I do not like the macho bullshit, so I saw a gap, a niche that I could invade and make my own, and an area that I wanted to explore, where I could use painted jackets to make people laugh, to think and also to inspire, so I continue to use the medium of the jacket to put my message out there to people, like a walking amusement. It so happened that a mutual friend asked me to paint a jacket for Alex Turner, from Artic Monkeys, to be used in the video of “One for the Roadâ€?. It was a very last minute job, I painted it the day before I moved from London to Australia, whilst my wife was packing and we were both drunk for our good bye party with friends‌. Nicolai Sclater, june 26, 2014. — ORNAMENTALCONIFER.BLOGSPOT.COM | INSTAGRAM: @ORNAMENTALCONIFER More photos on FFW.COM.BR

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ART

Checho Gonzales

DESAMPA

Paula Reboredo and Gil Franรงa

Leo Capote

creative chaos By Marcos Guinoza :: Photo Eudes de Santana

Bia Granja

Baixo Ribeiro

Gandja Monteiro

Billy Castilho

Maria Montero

Michelli Provensi

Sax In The Beats

André Sturm

Felipe Morozini

Millos Kaiser and Augusto Olivani

What makes São Paulo an innovative, inventive, entrepreneurial, and unique metropolis? 22 creative minds from several fields who live and work in São Paulo answer.

Mario Francisco

Vera Egito

Helena Rizzo

Emicida

Flavio Samelo

CRIATIVE CHAOS

Helena Rizzo

shirt MARIA FILÓ, vest ELLUS

Owner of Maní, she was elected by English magazine The Restaurant as the best female chef in the world

FFWMAG 37

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BEHAVIOR

CRIATIVE CHAOS

The best thing about working in SP?

The best and the worst in SP?

,Q P\ ÂżHOG ZKLFK LV JDVWURQRP\ 63 LV a great inspiration due to its cultural diversity. Restaurants, ingredients, stories, and people from the four corners of Brazil and the world. It is a constant exchange and learning experience.

The best: people, food, bookstores, movies, theaters, concerts, and art. The ZRUVW LV WKH GL̇FXOW\ PRVW WLPHV RI seeing friends as often as we want, of going from one place to the next, accessibility, and all that. Being creative is?

How does SP inspire you?

7R ORVH DQG ÂżQG \RXUVHOI

7KH FLW\ LV D SUROLÂżF ÂżHOG IRU DVVRFLDtions and comparisons. In the kitchen, those are fundamental aspects.

If you had the power to redesign SP?

Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

São Paulo is alive, pulsating, chaotic. It has work. It has pressure. So, these impressions have to be let out, otherwise you’ll explode! I believe that in order to live in SP everyone has to be a little creative, to develop the capacity to see the FLW\ DQG LWV UHODWLRQV XQGHU GL̆HUHQW angles. To have focus and to lose focus. Otherwise, we’ll become robots. If we haven’t already.

FFWMAG 37

63

Quality public transportation. There is no room for more cars. More public space dedicated to leisure, fun, gathering. Fewer walls. Fewer bulletproof cars! And a TietĂŞ worthy of being called a river. Street/place in SP that is you?

Liberdade. -MANIMANIOCA.COM.BR

BEHAVIOR

CRIATIVE CHAOS

Flavio Samelo

t-shirt NEW ERA

From skate tracks to art galleries, the photographer is a reference in Brazilian urban culture

The best thing about working in SP?

,Q 6mR 3DXOR \RX FDQ ¿QG DQ\WKLQJ and if you can’t, you’ll end up knowing someone who can get what you are looking for; it’s surreal. It has a lot of people, problems, work, and a lot of cool things; it depends on you choosing what you’ll dedicate yourself to. How does SP inspire you?

By the exaggeration, the brutal social contrasts, buildings, architecture, and, PRVWO\ E\ WKH VNDWHERDUGLQJ JUḊWL and everything that exists and transpires in the streets. Why is SP so creative and attracts so

São Paulo is Brazil’s economic engine, but I think there are other places in the country with people who are even more ingenious, like Porto Alegre and surroundings, which has a lot of incredible people, and the northeast.

Being creative is?

Solving a problem in a positive and harmonious way, taking into consideration everything that involves you and the people surrounding you. Street/place in SP that is you?

The best and the worst in SP?

The best is that you can eat whatever you want whenever you want. The worst is the lack of public policy towards the youth from the periphery. It is a waste of incredible lives that could help the city. But what government wants intelligent and creative people walking around with so many ignorant politicians in command?

Jaçanã, of course! -FLAVIOSAMELO.COM INSTAGRAM: @FLAVIOSAMELO

many creative minds?

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BEHAVIOR

CRIATIVE CHAOS

Michelli Provensi

International model and author of the book I need to go round the world – Surreal adventures of a real model

Pants TUFI DUEK, jacket ADIDAS

The best thing about working in SP?

comes palpable. SP is the epicenter of brainstorming. It is wide, with huge possibilities to bring forth new ideas and make them happen.

If you had the power to redesign SP?

Seeing possibilities in chaos. São Paulo is like that unattractive boyfriend that only you understand why you love. How does SP inspire you?

The best and the worst in SP?

Rua/lugar de SP que é a sua cara?

In the lack of obvious beauty, comfort, LW PDNHV PH VHDUFK IRU GL̆HUHQW RXWlooks and ways to express what I would like to see and feel more, the challenge that inspires.

The best is that people come from all places and feel at home. I come from Santa Catarina, but people can say I am from São Paulo and I won’t care. The worst is urban mobility; public transportation is not consistent with the city’s creative vein.

São Paulo is not me, it is my soul, and the Center has my soul.

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

I would transform Minhocão into a park and replace some of the 5 million vehicles for trees.

-FACEBOOK.COM/PAGES/MICHELLI-PROVENSI INSTAGRAM: @MICHIPROVENSI

many creative minds?

São Paulo is a city of convergence. I do what I love for a living, and when you put your heart into your work you attract creative connections, love beFFWMAG 37

Being creative is?

To give way to curiosity.

65

BEHAVIOR

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Vera Egito

Film and TV writer and director, she is making a new feature, dramatic comedy SP is A Party

The best thing about working in SP?

To be creative is?

The possibility of always taking a further step, of moving forward. The feeling is that you haven’t reached the best moment of your career. And that means the best is still to come.

To own up to your choices.

How does SP inspire you?

It’s hard to tell what of SP is in me, because this city is my home. I believe it taught me to be fearless and it inspires me to be the way I want to be. No fear. Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

In São Paulo, there is a massive group of people who believe in freedom. And in order to create, you need to be free. Here, you can try, experiment one thing and then another completeO\ GL̆HUHQW 2Q WKH RWKHU KDQG HYHU\one is very demanding, which forces you to keep your eyes open and work harder. You either move forward or are left behind. No one can take a break. And that is great.

If you had the power to redesign SP?

The exposed wiring; it makes me want to cry. It hurts looking at the hideous cabling. It should all be underground. Will it happen in my lifetime? Street/place in SP that is you?

JosÊ dos Santos Jr. Street, in Brooklin, where I spent my childhood and adolescence. Time goes by, but I’m still that girl and that street remains mine. -PARANOIDBR.COM/DIRETORES/10 INSTAGRAM: @VERAEGITO

The best and the worst in SP?

The best is the people. There are a lot of interesting individuals here. People who come from all parts of Brazil and other countries, and that makes the city have that something extra. The worst is the ugliness. The ugliness of life. People who have too much, others who don’t have enough. I think that happens with every metropolis, but SP is the largest city in the country, so all RXU ÀDZV DQG PLVHULHV MXPS RXW WR RXU faces every day. FFWMAG 37

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CRIATIVE CHAOS

Shirt ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH, pants VICTOR HUGO

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CRIATIVE CHAOS

Sax In The Beats

Sweatshirt DERCANVAS

JĂ´natas Paiva and Nilton Cezar, the twosome who plays concerts in the streets of SP wearing a panda and a horse masks

The best thing about working in SP?

SĂŁo Paulo is a city that has a great range of people, cultures, and tribes. Therefore, the city allows us to reach mixed crowds. Besides, it is the largest city in the country, which brings us visibility. How does SP inspire you?

7KH ¿UVW WKLQJ WKDW LQVSLUHG RXU ZRUN was the city frenzy, that’s how we got the idea of bringing music to the streets, to break people’s routine and leave the city a little less dull.

both for working and partying. The ZRUVW WUḊF YLROHQFH DQG SROOXWLRQ Being creative is?

Knowing how use the few resources you have to create something that catches people’s eye and has the ability to change their lives, be it intellectually, socially, or in any other aspect. Street/place in SP that is you?

Paulista Avenue. -FACEBOOK.COM/SAXINTHEBEATS INSTAGRAM: @SAXINTHEBEATS

The best and the worst in SP?

São Paulo is the land of opportunities, DQG LV QR GL̆HUHQW LQ WKH PXVLFDO VFHQH FFWMAG 37

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CRIATIVE CHAOS

Maria Montero

Independent curator, artist, and gallerista, she is head of Phosphorus, important space for artistic experimentation

Jacket ELLUS

The best thing about working in SP?

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

Being creative is?

São Paulo has given me a feeling of belonging. I’ve lived in many places around the world, had several professional experiences, but it was upon my return to São Paulo that I found a place to build something real. I feel that I found somewhere where I dedicate myself to doing what I love. São Paulo is my city, my codes, my family.

many creative minds?

To put ideas into practice with the resources available, even if they are not ideal. To think and to accomplish. Escaping what’s common ground, proYRNLQJ UHÀHFWLRQV ZLWK FRQWHQW EXW always being hands-on!

How does SP inspire you?

SĂŁo Paulo is my work.

FFWMAG 37

Any big city exerts that power of attraction by its diversity. SĂŁo Paulo is no different. Chaos and excess of energies, however, combined to a huge need to bypass limiting situations, exercise the power of creativity.

Street/place in SP that is you The best and the worst in SP?

The best is the feeling of belonging, in addition to having access to an active cultural life, and being around people that are a part of my world. The worst is walking home from work and seeing hundreds of homeless people sleeping in precarious conditions. The social gap, the violence that comes from it, the lack of conscience.

69

That is easy: Roberto Simonsen Street, 108. Historical Center, SĂŠ. -PHOSPHORUS.ART.BR INSTAGRAM: @MARIAMONTEROPASSOS

BEHAVIOR

shirt DAMYLLER

CRIATIVE CHAOS

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BEHAVIOR

CRIATIVE CHAOS

Baixo Ribeiro

Architect and art curator, he is one of the founders of Choque Cultural, gallery focused on public urban art

The best thing about working in SP?

The array and diversity of quality proIHVVLRQDOV WKDW ZH FDQ ¿QG WR FUHDWH collaborative work groups. How does SP inspire you?

The city has a long way to go if compared to other international centers of same size. And these opportunities for real transformation I see around here inspire me very much. SP has energy, people with a great will to change, and an exciting mobilizing strength. Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

It is an open city that receives a lot of outside cultures and easily embraces them as a part of its own identity. People from São Paulo are predisposed to be cosmopolitans and they are seen as such by the world. However, we have to be careful not to become a provinFFWMAG 37

cial town full of shopping malls and closed, wealthy, and tacky condos.

practices. I believe the redesign of the city is a collective process that happens in daily gestures.

The best and the worst in SP?

The worst is the alarming income difference that coexists: too much wealth and too much poverty. The best is being in this unequal environment working towards the improvement of conditions.

Street/place in SP that is you?

The corner of Anhangabaú with Aspicuelta. I know it doesn’t exist on a map, but it does in my imagination. -CHOQUECULTURAL.COM.BR | INSTAGRAM: @BAIXO

Being creative is?

Everyone is creative. It is important that we all realize that exercising creativity is good for our physical, mental, and emotional health. It shouldn’t be exclusive to artists or to those who work in advertisement, cultural productions etc. If you had the power to redesign SP?

I am already redesigning the city, along with everyone involved in new urban

71

BEHAVIOR

CRIATIVE CHAOS

AndrĂŠ Sturm

He directs MIS (Museum of Image and Sound) and is ahead of the traditional Cine Belas Artes

The best thing about working in SP?

The best and the worst in SP?

Things work around here. Besides, there is a variety of services and experts that few cities have.

The best is the range of options: movies, bookshops, restaurants, theaters. 7KH ZRUVW LV WUḊF

How does SP inspire you?

Being creative is?

People are the best inspiration. São 3DXOR LV IXOO RI GL̆HUHQW DQG LQVSLULQJ individuals.

Not being too idle to try.

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

If you had the power to redesign SP?

I’d make more subway lines and improve the way streets are designed.

many creative minds?

Because it is an open city, which has a diverse cultural schedule and a strong market. And then you have a virtuous circle: people come here and the market gets stronger, then more people come. In SP, there are a lot of people to HQMR\ WDON WR DQG VKDUH ZLWK FFWMAG 37

Most recent project/wish?

The reopening of Cine Belas Artes and the exhibition Castelo RĂĄ-Tim-Bum, at MIS, which opens in July. -MIS-SP.ORG.BR | BELASARTESCINE.COM.BR

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CRIATIVE CHAOS

Leo Capote

t-shirt DIESEL

He interned with the Campana brothers and was chosen as one of the 100 most important young designers working today by &fork

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The best thing about working in SP?

If you had the power to redesign SP?

7KH FRPIRUW RI ¿QGLQJ HYHU\WKLQJ LQ one place.

I think that if I did that São Paulo would stop being São Paulo.

How does SP inspire you?

Mais recente projeto/desejo?

My work is based on the idea of transIRUPLQJ REMHFWV¶ XWLOLW\ WKHUH¶V QR place better for that than São Paulo, which is always reinventing itself.

Kitchen utility products and chandeliers for racecourses.

Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

It is complete in terms of possibilities, references, and unexpected moments.

Street/place in SP that is you?

I was born and raised in the Center, so I think I end up being it and not it being me. -LEOCAPOTE.COM

The best and the worst in SP?

It has a little of everything, it pleases people of all tastes; the problem is the lack of infrastructure. Being creative is?

To be willing and opened to learn and change.

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Paula Reboredo and Gil França

The duo owns B.Luxo – one of the most popular thrift stores in São Paulo, with a desirable collection of vintage articles – and they have recently opened B.Bar

The best thing about working in SP?

The range of opportunities the city has WR R̆HU

The best is that there’s still a lot to explore. The worst is all those problems ZH DOO NQRZ VDIHW\ WUḊF HWF

How does SP inspire you?

Being creative is?

We use the city as a starting point to detect the shortage and the need of things to do in town.

Not being stuck in the past, running towards new things without losing yourself.

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

If you had the power to redesign SP?

many creative minds?

We’d add some green amidst all the gray.

Street/place in SP that is you?

Augusta Street. -BRECHOLUXO.BLOGSPOT.COM.BR

SĂŁo Paulo, like any other big city, changes extremely fast, so we believe creativity has to keep up with the speed required by the city. This is one of the reasons creative and open-minded people are attracted to SP.

INSTAGRAM: @_FREAKSTYLE E @GILFRANCA

Most recent project/wish?

Launching B.Bar (next to B.Luxo). It was created to serve clients and friends. The next wish is to expand B.Bar.

The best and the worst in SP?

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vest COLCCI (her), shirt ELLUS (him)

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CRIATIVE CHAOS

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Selvagem

DJs Millos Kaiser and Augusto Olivani, the names behind the party held outdoors downtown SĂŁo Paulo

The best thing about working in SP?

The best and the worst in SP?

Millos: In our case, it is nice to play for people who already have a musical repertoire and, more important, who have curious ears and restless legs. In SĂŁo Paulo, we can play Polish post-punk mixed with German techno and drop a dub version of Madonna without people making faces.

Augusto: The best: doing things no matter what time it is, be it early or late. The worst: limited mobility, be it on foot, bus, bicycle, train, subway, or car.

How does SP inspire you?

Augusto: By its random and dynamic way of bringing forth new ideas, peoSOH DQG SURMHFWV IHHOLQJ OLNH D UHSRVLtory of past and future possibilities from which you can always drink Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

Millos: The city is creative because it has to be: it lives immerse in complex problems that demand compound solutions. Being inventive here is a matter of survival. About the creative minds, I believe that they are drawn by the other creative minds that are already here.

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Augusto: Dom JosĂŠ Gaspar Square. It is where a very intense energy exchange takes place between us and the audience. -FACEBOOK.COM/FESTASELVAGEM

Being creative is?

INSTAGRAM: @FESTASELVAGEM

Augusto: Knowing how to measure instinct and intellect to promote mixtures between elements of distinct universes and make that seem like the most natural/surprising/memorable/ fresh thing in the world. If you had the power to redesign SP?

Augusto: Among other things, I would recondition the surrounding of the rivers that cut through SĂŁo Paulo and turn them into useful places for the population. SĂŁo Paulo must be the metropolis that does the worst use of its rivers. Street/place in SP that is you?

Millos: Downtown. Architecture is DPD]LQJ IRRG LV VWLOO D̆RUGDEOH DQG you live next to people from all classes.

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Emicida

He sharpened his claws winning rhyme battles and, today, he is one of the most relevant characters of the new national rap

The best thing about working in SP?

São Paulo is full of references. Thousands of information nonstop. If you go around town, as I do, the array of concepts widens, so maybe the best thing about working in SP is the possiELOLW\ WR FRQQHFW ZLWK VR PDQ\ GL̆HUHQW universes in a relatively small space. How does SP inspire you?

The stories here are fascinating. The conquests, the love stories, the sad ones. Since Adoniran Barbosa, or even before him, SP has always been a source of amazing stories. Although it is not Brazil’s main postal card, SP is very rich in human material.

would be even more so if the city was less segregated and discriminatory. The best and the worst in SP?

The best is having everything 24/7, a thousand things, thousand kinds of people, and thousand types of information. The worst is that we live in a UDFLVW FRXQWU\ DQG 63 LV QR GL̆HUHQW The city is divided and everyone loses.

Street/place in SP that is you?

I like Zona Norte (North Zone), the large amount of samba schools does me good, it becomes a very musical area. EMICIDA.COM | INSTAGRAM: @EMICIDA

Being creative is?

%HLQJ IUHH 7KH IHZHU SUHMXGLFHV \RX have, the fewer ties you’ll have. Hence, the more places you’ll visit and draw inspiration in several ways. If you had the power to redesign SP?

Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

Art is not market, but the market appropriates art and they both walk alongside in a way. The needs of the KXPDQ EHLQJ EH LW ÂżQDQFLDO RU ZKDWHYer, end up directing us to the great centers of the world. SĂŁo Paulo is no different, although cold, it welcomes everyone. That is wonderful, and it FFWMAG 37

I’d change its entire geography. To push people further away from their MREV LV LQKXPDQH 6SHFXODWLRQ LQ UHDO estate has caused that. It is callous not having libraries on the suburbs, art zones, classes, and work opportunities. It is cruel and, if we don’t come togethHU WR ¿[ LW LW ZLOO RQO\ JHW ZRUVW

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shirt R. GROOVE, hat LAB FANTASMA

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Mario Francisco

sweatshirt DER METROPOL, pants DIESEL, hat CAVALERA

Designer of Der Metropol, male brand that has established itself as one of the most creative in the streetwear segment in Brazil

The best thing about working in SP?

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

Being creative is?

The access that the city provides for everything. It makes the creative process easier, but also the development of any brand. The fashion industry here is undeniably better developed.

many creative minds?

Literally being able to materialize thoughts, reaching a provoking and original outcome.

Due to the easier access to everything. At the same time, I think competition LV DOVR ¿HUFH LQ DQ\ ¿HOG 7KDW SXVKHV us to produce more and to excel, go beyond, and get better results.

How does SP inspire you?

My work only exists because it was born in São Paulo, because I live here. People talk about “Brazilian design” hoping for something obvious, cliché, related to the image Brazil-Banana-Samba, but the Brazil that I know is São Paulo’s urban scene.

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Street/place in SP that is you?

Paulista Avenue. --

The best and the worst in SP?

7UḊF LV WKH ZRUVW 7KH FLW\ LV EHFRPLQJ increasingly more expensive as well. The best is this mixture that results in São Paulo’s unique personality. You are in an enormous city, ultra-urban, that could be anywhere in the world, but it is Brazilian, and still possesses a mix between what’s global and what’s local.

82

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Billy Castilho

jacket ELLUS

Art director and set designer, he is the curator of TAG Gallery, space dedicated to works related to street art

The best thing about working in SP?

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

To be creative is?

Waking up and knowing that I have a big challenge ahead, I have to understand my day and make a puzzle of the paths I have to travel, and the pressure, if I’m going to be able to meet all my professional engagements, and that is a great challenge for someone who loves São Paulo like I do.

many creative minds?

I believe in teamwork, in gathering different tribes, in living together with people, knowing how to listen to ideas and solutions. I like to get people together and have fun; there is where creativity comes from.

The city deserves a debate about how all of us, “creative minds”, can help come up with ideas and solutions for SP, where governmental powers hamper the use of the city. I believe this barrier leads to creative revelry and, because of it, we search for new ways to propose and provoke the city.

-ESTUDIOSENHORAOLGA.WORDPRESS.COM INSTAGRAM: @BILLY_CASTILHO

How does SP inspire you?

The dawn and the loneliness that comes with that moment. I love São Paulo at dawn, between 5h30 and 9h, it is the most inspiring and creative moment, when I have insights for my SURMHFWV

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The best and the worst in SP?

The diversity of people is one of the reasons to believe it is very cool and incredible to live here. The worst is the government.

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dress TOPSHOP, belt OSKLEN, sandals MARIA FILÓ

CRIATIVE CHAOS

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Bia Granja

Co-creator and curator of YouPix Festival, YouPix platform, website that talks about and examines digital culture phenomena

The best thing about working in SP?

The best and the worst in SP?

Street/place in SP that is you?

7KH FLW\œV FUHDWLYH R̆HULQJ

The best is its urban character. I love great metropolis and all they have to R̆HU 7KDW LV DOVR WKH GRZQVLGH OLIH LQ D ELJ FLW\ KDV YLROHQFH WUḊF LQHTXLW\ lack of infrastructure.

Vila Madalena, where I live.

How does SP inspire you?

By giving me options! I go crazy with the amount of things and opportunities that D FLW\ OLNH 6mR 3DXOR R̆HUV ,W LV DOZD\V enticing!

-YOUPIX.VIRGULA.UOL.COM.BR INSTAGRAM: @BIAGRANJA

Being creative is?

Making connections. Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

If you had the power to redesign SP?

Because it is not an obvious city, where all cool things are explicit, like Rio, for example. SĂŁo Paulo demands dedication, research, going after things, that is why is so stimulating.

In SP, in general, the work neighborhoods are not the same as the dwelling places, which creates “zombie� centers in the city that become deserted and abandoned after 6 pm. If I could change something, I would mix them up.

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Gandja Monteiro

Filmmaker and director of music and ad videos. At the moment, she is producing her first feature film and writing a TV series

The best thing about working in SP?

I like the inspiration that comes from living in a city that has such a raw energy, where things are rapidly changing.

I’d build a train straight from Guarulhos, to facilitate the connection between the city and the airport. Most recent project/wish?

Everything around me inspires me: my friends, art, music, accelerated energy. I’ve always liked big metropolis.

,ÂśP LQYROYHG LQ QXPHURXV SURMHFWV SUHSURGXFWLRQ RI P\ ÂżUVW IHDWXUH ÂżOP writing a series for TV, and shooting a SURMHFW IRU &RFD &ROD

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

Street/place in SP that is you?

many creative minds?

I’m still in search for that.

How does SP inspire you?

Because there is still so much to do, there’s still room to create and build. And because it doesn’t stop, like me.

-GANDJAMONTEIRO.COM INSTAGRAM: @GANDJAMONTEIRO

The best and the worst in SP?

The best is having the opportunity to discover new experiences. The worst is REYLRXV WUḊF Being creative is?

Observe, paying attention to details. If you had the power to redesign SP?

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vintage shirt CASA JUISI

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Checho Gonzales

jacket ELLUS

Bolivian chef rooted in S達o Paulo, he is one of the organizers of gastronomy festival O Mercado

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The best thing about working in SP?

Being creative is?

The certainty that there is still a lot to be done.

Finding alternatives and solutions. If you had the power to redesign SP?

How does SP inspire you?

It inspires me by pushing me, through highs and lows. Not everything is roses.

I would bring back every stream, river, creek that are down there hidden. Street/place in SP that is you?

Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

The city is rough, so it needs solutions and actions that help us on our daily lives. São Paulo has a history of welcoming people from everywhere, and creative people are restless and they VWDQG RXW LQ WKH PLJUDWLRQ ÀRZV

It depends on the moment, of my needs, but I circle around the neighborhoods downtown. I live in Santa Cecília. I would say I belong to the streets. -FACEBOOK.COM/CHECHO.GONZALES

The best and the worst in SP?

Best: we have thousands of cultural attractions all the time. Worst: not beLQJ DEOH WR HQMR\ WKHP , GRQ¶W XQGHUstand why such events are so poorly communicated.

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pants, vest and shoes HERCHCOVITCH;ALEXANDRE, shirt R. GROOVE

CRIATIVE CHAOS

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DESAMPA

Singer, composer, and multi-instrumentalist who prefers to keep his identity a secret. His second album, Hue, was released in 2014

The best thing about working in SP?

The best and the worst in SP?

Street/place in SP that is you?

I think is not having a beach “calling” you the entire day, the whole year.

The best is knowing that I’ll always be able to call SP my home. The worst is that it seems that no one cares or takes care of it, everything is a mess, no one has respect. Art doesn’t have the space it deserves. Everyone is to blame that the city is not what it could be.

15 de Novembro Street and sorroundings. It is the combination of the mystery/danger of São Paulo’s wonderful downtown with the streets that don’t allow cars. It is a place that brings me so much inspiration. And also Ibirapuera, a collection on Niemeyer’s buildings surrounded by a beautiful park.

How does SP inspire you?

The relationship of love and hate is what inspires me. I am a product of this gray city. Don’t expect me to make sweet music. I try to become as sensitive as possible and accept what the city is trying to tell me.

Being creative is?

--

6WUHWFKLQJ FKLOGKRRG LQ¿QLWHO\

FACEBOOK.COM/DESAMPAMUSIC INSTAGRAM: @DESAMPAMUSIC

Why is SP so creative and attracts so

If you had the power to redesign SP?

many creative minds?

I would remove a bunch of people who are hurting the city. I would turn some of the many shopping malls into cultural centers and schools. I’d build vertical gardens all over the city. And I’d make more room for pedestrians and cyclists.

In South America, São Paulo is the city that most allows room for people to be themselves. It is a city for experimentation. And experimenting is freeing and breeds creativity. If you use the excuse that you need a beach or an amazing view to be creative, you don’t know what it means to create. FFWMAG 37

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Felipe Morozini

3KRWRJUDSKHU RI 6mR 3DXORÂśV GDLO\ OLIH KH NHHSV ILJKWLQJ IRU WKH SURMHFW 3DUN MinhocĂŁo, which, according to him, “has become practically a daily causeâ€?

The best thing about working in SP?

To be creative is?

Speed and opportunity.

Exercise the improbable.

How does SP inspire you?

If you had the power to redesign SP?

I breath SĂŁo Paulo. The people, the smells, textures, faces, lines, shapes. Everything at the same time..

I’d have a park in each neighborhood. With the Atlantic Forest preserved. A reserve. With birds and original animals living in harmony with us.

Why is SP so creative and attracts so many creative minds?

Street/place in SP that is you?

São Paulo is not an easy city; you have to come up with survival solutions every day. If it is well applied, it becomes a good idea. Lots of people thinking together. That is good. There is hope, at the same time. It is liberating. It’s in the air. No one stops around here. Everyone is busy. Urban collective unconscious.

MinhocĂŁo. -ZIPPERGALERIA.COM.BR/PT/#ARTISTAS/ FELIPE-MOROZINI/ INSTAGRAM: @FELIPEMOROZINI

The best and the worst in SP?

The good friendships you build in this town are certainly the best. The worst: the feeling of urban violence, be it criminal, architectural, or in the behavior of our rulers.

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Black Bust

Abstract | Symbolic | Obscure

Kevin Francis Gray

Kids on a Tomb

By Marcos Guinoza and João Lourenço

t was during a trip to Roma, while visiting Santa Cecilia in

I

bitter, and transgressor side of human soul, sculpting punks, drug

Trastevere church and seeing the statue of Santa Cecilia –

addicts, psychiatric patients, adolescent restlessness.

sculpted by Stefano Maderno, in 1559 –, that Kevin Francis

In Gray’s sculptures there is a tension between past and pres-

Gray chose this form of artistic representation to express himself.

ent. While the shapes are clearly inspired by the classics, the con-

“That day had a deep impact in me�, he tells. He spent nearly the

tent of his work is made of elements that evoke contemporaneity,

whole afternoon admiring the sculpture and left with a question

with young characters in sneakers and streetwear, as we can see in

ringing in his head: “How can I make something so well, so pro-

the series Kids on a Tomb and Ghost Boy.

found, meaningful – not only to me, but that also represents some-

Born in Armagh, Northern Ireland, Kevin Francis Gray, 42, is UHSUHVHQWHG E\ 3DFH *DOOHU\ ZKR GHÂżQH KLV ZRUN DV D ÂłFRPSOH[

thing to others –, and contemporary?� The answer came in the shape of sculptures blending goth-

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ic and neoclassic styles fascinating for their beauty as well as for

and works in London. He spoke with FFWMAG over the telephone.

the themes addressed by Gray. The artist focuses on the darker,

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ART

Ghost Boy Marble

KEVIN FRANCIS GRAY

Ghost Boy Marble

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ART

KEVIN FRANCIS GRAY

&RQĂ€LFWV LQ QRUWKHUQ LUHODQG

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When my work started to become known,

I work with a variety of materials, espe-

I’m very thankful that I don’t have to work

people began asking me about that. I left

FLDOO\ JODVV ÂżEHU SODVWHU EURQ]H DQG PDU-

in a kitchen, washing dishes, or in an of-

Ireland at a young age, went to school in

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ÂżFH VRPHZKHUH :KHQ , OHIW DUW VFKRRO

the United States and England. I used to

to the material. For instance, the marble

all I wanted was to have my own studio

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bodies wouldn’t work in bronze, nor the

where I could work every day. Once I had

my work at all, but, as I grew older, I real-

ones in bronze in marble. I try to visual-

all that, I realized that what comes after

ized that it is impossible to think it didn’t

ize the sculpture, what’s supposed to look

is challenging and complicated. Overall,

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like, and then choose the material. It will

I feel very lucky, but I can’t settle, live

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also depend on what is happening in the

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time. I was exposed to an environment

studio and what’s already there. I never

prove to myself‌

of extreme violence, it was almost a dai-

say “this will be the material of this stat-

ly thing, something always happened. To

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7KH FRVW RI VXFFHVV

be honest, today I admit it had a profound

going to be, I don’t close myself to possi-

Success hasn’t brought me any comfort.

impact on my work.

bilities, I like to make adaptations during

As a matter of fact, I feel more nervous

the process. It’s important to know that

and anxious than before. If I could come

&RXQWU\ DW ZDU

I’m not a large scale artist, I don’t take or-

to my studio and create, every single day,

Despite everything, I feel a deep connec-

ders. The marble pieces are more special,

it would be perfect. But there are a series

tion with Northern Ireland and I try to

I can’t change them too much. If I think

of responsibilities. I’m lucky to do what I

visit as often as I can. The funny thing

of something more alive, I go with bronze.

love, I’m not stuck in an office the whole day, but in a way I have to deal with

about growing up in a country at war is that outsiders can’t imagine that in the

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things that are so far apart from the raw

same place there is also love, tenderness,

I remember vividly going to Rome in a

creation process.

and hope.

tour with other art students and seeing the statue of Santa Cecilia, by Stefano Mader-

)DVKLRQ

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no. I remember watching and admiring it

I didn’t know a Brazilian designed a col-

Maybe in my subconscious I am trying to

for a long time, practically the whole af-

lection based on my work. That is amaz-

say something about the past. I didn’t ex-

ternoon. That day had a deep impact in

ing! Who is he? I would love to get in

perience simply violence; I also witnessed

me. And I asked myself: “How can I make

touch. I love fashion. I’ve worked with

love and care. Be it subconsciously or not,

something so well, profound, meaningful

Hedi Slimane, from Dior, and other de-

WKHVH FRQĂ€LFWLQJ HPRWLRQV HFKR LQ P\

– not only to me, but that also represents

signers. It is wonderful to know that my

work somehow.

something to others –, and contempo-

work inspired someone in Brazil.

rary?� From that moment, I dedicated &RQQHFWHG PLQG

myself to sculptures.

(Designer AndrÊ Lucian presented a collection based on Gray’s work during Prêmio Moda Hype 2012, an award

I believe I am politically and socially oriented; I try to follow a bit of everything.

,QVSLUDWLRQ

for new designers that happens during

Not only as an artist, but also as a human

I draw inspiration from people. I have

Fashion Rio)

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worked with drug addicts, dancers, all

--

and also dismaying, of course. I’ve always

kinds of people. And that is what inspires

KEVINFRANCISGRAY.COM

KDG D VWURQJ FRQQHFWLRQ ZLWK WKH FRQĂ€LFWV

me: friends and people I bump into in the

in Palestine, all that nonsense in Gaza, be-

streets. Working with these people is chal-

cause it is very similar to what happened

lenging. I’ve had people quit on me and

in Northern Ireland.

told me to go screw myself.

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ART

Face off Bronze

SILVANA MELLO

Carnivorous Àower The rough lightness in the art of Silvana Mello By Kåtia Lessa

L

ooking at the embroidered screens, the little houses in naïf style, or the images of children carefully painted over wood, one can’t imagine that the author of such delicate work, in her teenage years, only though about riding waves in the beaches

of Santa Catarina. Around the 1980’s, when she was a bit more grown up, it was easy to see her in Porto Alegre’s punk scene, she competed in skate championships, duly sponsored, and, on the following decade, in SĂŁo Paulo, she was a member of hardcore bands, such as No Violence and Lava. A product of the national underground culture, Silvana Mello, who lives in SĂŁo Paulo since 1993, is pure contradiction. The lightness of her hand and technic mask rough, aggressive, and strident references. Nothing is exactly what it seems, such as her questioning of stereotypes or wry smile. Many times, the pictures are painted from photographs of her personal collection and inspired by the aesthetic of commercials from the 1960’s. Âł6LOYDQDÂśV ZRUN LV OLNH D FDUQLYRURXV Ă€RZHU <RX ORRN DW LW IHHO DWWUDFWHG E\ WKH VKDSHV ÂżQGV LW FXWH DQG WKHQ ZKHQ \RX JHW FORVHU LW VZDOORZV \RX ZKROH´ VD\V FXUDWRU %DL[R 5Lbeiro, owner of Choque Cultural, Silvana’s old gallery. Now her work is sold online. In Pogo MatinĂŞ, she patiently embroiders a famous hardcore punk scene photoJUDSKHG LQ &%*% D QLJKW FOXE LQ 1HZ <RUN ,Q DQRWKHU RQH RI KHU ZRUNV D SDLQWLQJ RYHU wood, she depicts a boy skating down a hill in a neighborhood in SĂŁo Paulo. The name of the painting: Hill of Death.

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100

ART

Camping de Trailler 74

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SILVANA MELLO

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among the most popular. “Lots of people go to the fair searching for

she never used that technique. Silvana has more of the underground

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aesthetic from San Francisco, United States, with her musical and

and Carlos Issa. For the youngsters, Silvana is part of a pack thought

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of as the gods of underground inspiration. Her work presents a mis-

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wasn’t interested in doing anything, except being at the beach,

She was brought up in a family of strong women, but who dom-

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inated the crafts: knitting, sewing, embroidery, pots, and brush-

few punks and immediately was attracted to that scene. I dove into

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that universe and never went back. My surfer friends would say:

handyman. I remember her knitting, but I also remember her with

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The family tradition continues. Her daughter, Martina, 5, al-

es of drawing and history of art at Panamericana School of Arts

ready claims to be an artist, and, in addition to appearing in several

and Mube, Brazilian Museum of Sculpture; however, she claims to

of Silvana’s works, now creates with her mother. “When she was

be self-taught and describes herself as a satellite dish, introspec-

younger, I had an exhibition meant to be titled ‘While you were

tive, lonely, and thorough. “I’ve really learned from friends, such

sleeping’. All the pieces were made late at night, sitting by her bed.

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away from the stages, always has her iPod glued to her when she is

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working. “Music, movements, surf, skate, underground life, all that

covers, and I even ended up doing an animation in ink on Carson

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paper, which was turned into a vignette on MTV to the sound of

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print.

underground culture, and which she makes up to this day. At Plana

--

fair, event for independent publications that takes place annually

FACEBOOK.COM/SILVANA.MELLO1 | ISTAGRAM: SILVANA_MELLO

at MIS, Museum of Sound and Image of SĂŁo Paulo, her zines are

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ART

SILVANA MELLO

Olha o Passarinho :: Pogo Matine

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ART

High fashion meets streetwear By Camila Yahn

I

f the streets have always been a source of inspiration for fashion, lately, we are witnessing an interesting wave that reaches the inner circles of the most luxurious and exclusive ring of fashion: haute-couture. Sportswear is a great reference for

designers in general; it conveys comfort, design, and technology. Now, one of the most democratic items in our wardrobe – besides jeans and t-shirts – reaches a new level. Yes, we are talking about sneakers. They made their way into Chanel’s and Dior’s couture shows, leaving people dumbfounded and wondering: what in the world do tennis shoes have in common with haute-couture? Nowadays, everything. Old rules are giving way to novelties such as this, which celebrates the reunion between streetwear and highfashion. Usually produced in large scale, these super sneakers are handmade, following closely the technique and precision of French ateliers. Dior Fusion Sneaker, created by Raf Simons, combines high-technology to manual ODERU WR FUHDWH DQ LWHP RUQDPHQWHG ZLWK UKLQHVWRQHV DQG GHOLFDWH VHTXLQV ÀRZHUV +HUH FFWMAG VKRZV ¿UVWKDQG WKH PDQXIDFWXULQJ E\ WKH VDJH KDQGV RI WKH DUWLVDQV ZKR EULQJ to life Simons’ ideas, the man responsible for breathing fresh life into the French house.

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FASHION

DIOR FUSION SNEAKER

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FASHION

Kanye West +Vanessa Beecroft +Maison Martin Margiela By Camila Yahn :: Photo Joshua Mellin

A

crash between three creative masterminds turn

main features of her work are there: sim-

Yeezus Tour into the most vibrating and lively ex-

plicity, a dose of nudity, and precision. With

perience in the story of recent music.

hardly any clothes on, the dancers interact

In Yeezus, even the sound, lighting, and LED equipment were

with Kanye and with the mountain that

developed specially for Kanye. In this tour, ingeniousness was

is part of the scenery, creating a series of

maximized; there were no creative boundaries, and certainly not

shapes and textures throughout the concert.

¿QDQFLDO Forbes reported that Kanye alone is making U$ 1 million per show.

The result is a breathtaking experience that transcends the power of live ac-

Here, Kanye’s, Vanessa’s, and Maison Martin Margiela’s vi-

tion: the image also surprises in pictures

sions complement each other. The Belgian label, linked to fashion

in magazines and newspapers and home

avant-garde, chose iconic articles from its history and reproduced

videos on YouTube.

them to match Vanessa Beecroft’s performatic settings. There are

Like it or not, Yeezus is a lesson of

ten haute-couture items, 20 ready-to-wear, and exclusive pairs of

contemporaneity and vigor that brings to

sneakers. Silk pants, large overcoats, jackets and sneakers, next to

mind one of Kanye’s statements: “We are

four masks covered in jewels, mirrors or tiles, trace an image that

the real rock stars, and I am the greatest

instantly translates into power and strength.

of them all”.

With Vanessa, Kanye has worked in various projects, including short musical Runaway, 2010, album My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy, and at Art Basel, in Miami. Vanessa created the live installation with 12 dancers and was also the tour’s artistic director. The

-INSTAGRAM: @KANYEWEST

KANYE WEST + VANESSA BEECROFT + MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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MUSIC

KANYE WEST + VANESSA BEECROFT + MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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MUSIC

KANYE WEST + VANESSA BEECROFT + MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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MUSIC

KANYE WEST + VANESSA BEECROFT + MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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MUSIC

Like it or not, Yeezus is a lesson of contemporaneity and vigor that brings to mund one of Kanye’s statements: “If I said I am not a genius, I’d be lying to me and to you”

How hip-hop swallowed fashion

Bling Days By Gabriel Marchi

A

n earthquake shook the fash-

The same does not apply to Kanye.

the copycat, they began suing the design-

ion world in 2014. The epicen-

After all, the rapper is a trendsetter. He’s

er repeatedly. As a result, the goods were

ter was the cover of American

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apprehended by local police on several

Vogue’s April issue. After much specu-

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occasions. “They use vinyl. I use leather�,

lation, the magazine chose rapper Kanye

he was an intern at Fendi, and is a reg-

he’d say mockingly. In the 1990’s, up to

West and his then bride-to-be – now

ular attendee at fashion shows in New

his head in law suits involving copyright

wife – Kim Kardashian to star on the

York, Paris, London, and Milan. He’s seen

violation, Dan shut down the business.

cover shot by Annie Leibovitz. Fashion-

posing next to famous designers, has his

Into the future, around the year 2000,

istas were quick to react, expressing re-

own clothing line, and is in tune with re-

the two worlds started to come closer.

volt and despise on the social networks.

nowned artists and architects. Kanye is a

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For the first time, Vogue’s all-mighty ed-

walking trend bureau. Watch out WGSN!

Wilbekin, former editor-in-chief of Vibe

itor-in-chief Anna Wintour’s choice was

Therefore, there is nothing more appro-

magazine, dedicated to African American

second-guessed by readers.

priate than placing him on the front cover

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of Vogue. And that’s that.

Daddy sells way more than [designer] Do-

What confused audiences, however, was not so much the rapper’s being

Thirty years ago, the same would have

natella Versace. It makes total sense that,

on the cover, even if that was unprec-

been unimaginable. From the beginning

at some point, people like her would real-

edented, but Kardashian’s presence –

of the 1980’s to the end of the 1990’s,

ize that�, he concluded back in 2003, when

the star of reality shows and a sex tape

fashion and hip-hop were in full collision.

Italian designer became a favorite among

who had, up to that point, been sol-

Hip-hop pioneer and designer from Har-

American MCs and rappers in award cere-

emnly ignored by mainstream editors

lem Dapper Dan would customize cloth-

monies and began to incorporate hip-hop

and stylists. According to them, Kim

ing articles for artist like Salt ‘N’ Pepa and

elements in her collections.

lacks taste and is not within the right to

rapper LL Cool J, adding and mixing logos

Today, 2014, we can say that fashion

occupy the most valuable and coveted

of brands such as Chanel, Prada, and Lou-

and hip-hop are living a honeymoon. Tra-

fashion editorial space on the planet.

is Vuitton to customers liking. Enraged by

ditional brands and maisons de couture,

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BEHAVIOR

BLING DAYS

Prince Williams/Getty Images

Gold, cigar and champagne: rapper Jay-Z wears Givenchy sweatshirt at So So Def’s party, in Atlanta

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BEHAVIOR

BLING DAYS

Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

Icon in the 1980’s, Run DMC influenced a generation with song “My Adidas” and turned the German label into an object of desire

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BEHAVIOR

BLING DAYS

Texan rapper Z-Rio in photo of the series Houston Rap, by Peter Beste. The oversized t-shirt and the golden chains became a hip-hop trademark

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BEHAVIOR

BLING DAYS

ImaxTree

Clothes of wide proportions used by rappers influenced Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci, and the label’s Rottweiler print became a worldwide hit, including among rappers. Men’s winter collection 2011, Paris

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BEHAVIOR

BLING DAYS

“hip-hop, and its obsession with possession, tries to deny the idea that one is so inconsequential economically that one doesn’t exist in society� frightened by the crisis in Europe, search

Appropriation is a strong feature of

for demographic markets previously ig-

hip-hop, starting with the beat and vi-

nored. And what a market! According to

nyl samples from soul, funk, and rock,

Historically, rappers’ fixation with

the book Free Stylin’ (Hip Hop in Amer-

which are the foundation of rap. In his

blings is also a case for study and, even-

ica), from researcher Elena Romero,

thesis Hip-Hop: Culture and Politics in

tually, criticism. For Questlove, musician

streetwear industry dedicated to hip-hop

SĂŁo Paulo, anthropologist JoĂŁo Batista

of American band The Roots, obsession

moves, annually, U$ 192 billion.

de Jesus FĂŠlix, from USP, shines a light

with ostentation has its roots in a his-

humble upbringing, while selling hats and other accessories of his own label.

Among the brands that benefited the

on the matter quoting ethnologist Claude

torical trauma from the slavery period.

most from the association with hip-hop

LÊvi-Stauss’ The Wild Mind, from 1978:

“When the slaves were freed, they began

is Givenchy, French label founded in

“The characteristic of mythical thought,

to exist not only politically, but also eco-

1952 by Hubert de Givenchy – famous for

like bricolage, in practical terms, is to

nomically. Ownership was a way to assert

dressing Audrey Hepburn. The brand’s

develop structured sets, not unlike other

their existence – therefore, possessing

current cover girls in nothing resemble

structured sets, but using residues and

many things would prove you really exist-

Holly Golightly. In 2013, just to name an

fragments of events [‌] fossil witnesses

ed. Hip-hop, and its obsession with pos-

example, designer Ricardo Tisci created

of a man’s or a society’s history. In a way,

session, tries to deny the idea that one is

the costumes worn by Rihanna during

the relationship between diachrony and

so inconsequential economically that one

a tour. The flamboyant sweatshirts, al-

synchrony is, thus, reversed: the myth-

doesn’t exist in society.�

ways matched with sumptuous sneakers,

ical thought, this bricoleur, elaborates

The cover of Vogue says a lot about

are a must-have item, as well as the Rot-

structures ordering events, or rather the

how much hip-hop has conquered with-

weiller print T-shirt, in the closet of nine

residue of events�.

in the fashion industry in the last de-

out of ten hip-hop artists. It’s no wonder

Fashion, in its turn, has been bor-

cade. However driven by economic forc-

that rappers like Swizz Beatz, P. Diddy,

rowing from the streets for a long time.

es, it consolidates as a fashion image an

and Jay-Z are often seen on Givenchy’s

In the 1990’s, Chanel paraded models

aesthetic built throughout 30 years and

first row. In rap Olympus, flaunting

wearing thick chains. Versace adopted

preserved by generations of artists and

fashion information is equally or more

bomber jackets and pantaloons used

fans with an unpaired authenticity im-

important than having the money to buy

by MCs from Queens, with their giant

possible of being replicated by a market-

luxury. This change represents an im-

hoops and Afro hairstyle. Streetwear

ing department.

portant break of paradigm regarding the

brands such as Adidas and Nike, who

A quote from rapper Schoolly print-

“street cred�. In order to gain the respect

did everything they possibly could to

ed on Spin magazine, in 1986, still reso-

of your pairs, you need to understand

distance themselves from hip-hop, to-

nates: “White people think the chains are

the “intelligence� of what you wear.

day embrace the movement. In Brazil,

to show you’re richer, when in fact is a

The concept of “copying to customize�

brands like Alexandre Herchcovitch,

tradition that comes from Africa. Gold is

invented by Dapper Dan was reproduced

AmapĂ´, Osklen, and JoĂŁo Pimenta have

for warriors. Hip-hop artists have many

by dozens of rappers. Jay-Z owns Roc Na-

incorporated, even if only indirectly, el-

battles to fight. We need to stand tall and

tion. Pharrel, besides being a fashion icon

ements of hip-hop culture.

say we are winning battles. That is why

– his hat, also his trademark, is a collec-

Another recent echo of hip-hop in

tion item signed by Vivienne Westwood

Brazil came through ostentation funk,

–, owns Icecream Clothing. P Diddy owns

recent musical phenomenon born in the

Sean John. And the list goes on with Nel-

outskirts of SĂŁo Paulo and captained by

ly (Vokal), Eminem (Shady Limited), Lil

MC GuimĂŞ. Singing about cars, sneakers,

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and label sunglasses, he could easily be a

Wear), among many others. These multi-

disciple of group Run DMC, for using the

million businesses comprehend not only

same language established with song “My

clothes, but also accessories, fragrances,

Adidas�. Just like American rappers, Gui-

sneakers, and design objects.

mĂŞ talks to his fans about success and his

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119

we wear blings�. Thirty years later, it is a relief to state that some battles have already been won.

BEHAVIOR

Karol Her name is party

I

“

decide everything that is going to hap-

daiaâ€? (“party timeâ€?) and “Que DelĂ­ciaâ€?

pen in my career; I am my own styl-

(“delicious�) was that no, it’s not wrong to

ist, makeup artist – and I want people

have a goodtime. “When I started out, a lot

to feel that in my music�, explains Karol

of people told me I was doing everything

ConkĂĄ, 27, about the current stands of her

wrong. Why? Because I wasn’t doing more

artistic career, which began when she was

RI WKH VDPH 7RGD\ UDS LV QRW PRUH RI WKH

16. More than venturing into an essentially

same, it’s a constant innovation.�

alternative scene – in Curitiba, out of the

Batuk Freak KHU ÂżUVW DOEXP

axis Rio-São Paulo –, she embarked in a

was welcomed positively by audiences

universe that, up to that point, didn’t deal

and, especially, critics – but she is careful

well with female artists: hip-hop. In addi-

in analyzing her trajectory. “It was only

tion, that crowd didn’t see her joy with the

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same excitement as she did.

happened yet�, she ponders. “It’s taking

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LWV ÂżUVW VWHSV LWÂśV D EDE\ /RWV RI SHRSOH

very narrow-minded�, she says. “I was

don’t know it.� And she adds: “I don’t

seen as an alien: ‘Oh, she’s nuts’, ‘look at

want fame, I want success�.

her talking shit’. I was saying what people

7KLV \HDU VKH IDFHV DQRWKHU ORQJ WRXU

say today [in music], but at that time it was

LQ (XURSH KHU VHFRQG /DWHU VKH ZLOO VWDUW

hard for people to understand.� What Kar-

to think about her second album, which

ol preached about in songs such as “Gan-

LV H[SHFWHG WR EH ODXQFKHG LQ WKH ÂżUVW VH-

STYLING CHIALIN CHIANG BELEZA RAFAEL MELO (CAPA MGT)

ConkĂĄ By Paulo Terron :: Photo MĂĄrio Daloia

mester of 2015, in addition to 15 monthly performances in Brazil and taking care of her son, Jorge. 7R NHHS WKH UK\WKP .DURO KDV WKH KHOS of something she developed throughout the last decade. “I learned how to be disciplined�, she tells. “I need to be better organized and prevent my brain from atrophying, as a matter of speak. I had to be more mature.� Organization is only not essential in one aspect: “Creating music, to me, is basic. I about doing it, and I do it�. -FACEBOOK.COM/KAROLCONKA

t-shirt and jacket ADIDAS ORIGINALS boots CAVALERA tai dai socks and accessories ARTIST’S PERSONAL COLLECTION

Lykke Li She participated in David Lynch’s album, posed for Swedish apparel label Acne, and is in Terrence Malick’s new film

Reproduction

By João Lourenço

LYKKE LI

L

ykke Li’s mother used to think she

makes a comeback and launches her best

and has participated in the album The Big

couldn’t have children. But, after

album so far: I Never Learn.

Dream RI ÂżOP GLUHFWRU 'DYLG /\QFK 7KH

spending some time at a Tibetan

The sound of solitude: “In this album,

list of collaboration is not limited to music.

village, in the beginning of the 1980’s, she

I tried to go as deep as I could. I replaced

After posing for Swedish apparel compa-

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the songs several times. At the end, I real-

ny Acne, she is getting ready to launch her

Lykke’s older sister, now a designer based

ized the changes I was making were like a

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in New York. Soon came the second daugh-

defense. I wasn’t ready to let go of the re-

tation came from & Other Stories, label of

ter: Lykke Li Tomtej Svensson.

cord, so I kept editing it. I had never gone

the fast fashion group H&M. Fan of John

Lykke was born on March 18, 1986, a

through that road before. It was a myste-

Cassavetes and Ingmar Bergman, Lykke

month after the nuclear disaster in Cher-

rious and quite private journey. No musi-

DOVR LQYHVWV LQ ÂżOP ,Q 0DUFK (XURSHDQ

nobyl, Ukraine. Fearing the radiation

cian in particular inspired me. I was more

audiences followed her debut as an actress

waves that threatened the west of Sweden,

interested in sound landscapes: the sound

in the drama Tommy, by Tarik Saleh, who

her parents abandoned the farm where

of solitude, of regret�.

has directed many of Lykke’s music videos.

they lived, south of Stockholm, and left

Filled with deep and melancholic bal-

She also shares the screen with actors Ryan

on a long journey around the world. After

lads, I Never Learn LV WKH ÂżQDO FKDSWHU RI

Gosling and Natalie Portman in Knight of

having been in Morocco, Nepal, India, and

a trilogy and, according to Lykke, an album

Cups, Terrence Malick’s latest feature. Cur-

New Zealand, the family settled down in

that doesn’t allow for excesses; and she

rently in post-production, the movie tells

Portugal and, at last, returned to Sweden.

doesn’t lighten the feeling of post break-

the story of Austin’s musical scene.

Citizen of the world: “My parents didn’t

up abandonment. Just check out the track

Malick: “If someone is interested in

raise me to be ‘Swedish’. My mom used to

list: “Sleeping Alone�, “Never Gonna Love

telling stories from the heart, it is impossi-

say the world was too big for me to be stuck

Again�, “Heart of Steel�.

EOH WR VWD\ DZD\ IURP ÂżOP 7HUUHQFH 0DOLFN

in such a small and cold country. Travel-

Inspiration: “Writer Joan Didion was a

ling with my parents as a child helped me

great inspiration to me. I feel a connection

gave me so much freedom that it ended up

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to the strength and despair of her hero-

At 28, Lykke Li is the kind of artist that

cultures, and that, naturally, contributed

ines. Writing is a necessity; it’s my life in

doesn’t make concessions. She writes songs

to my music�.

teaching me how to me more disciplined�.

so many levels. As Joan says, sometimes

for herself, to scare away her own demons.

During her adolescence, Lykke studied

we forget everything we thought we would

Power as an artist: “There is a fascination

ballet and modern dance. Later, she en-

never forget. My goal with this record was

around the idea of talent. I don’t care about

rolled in a government music school for low

not to make peace with the past, but, may-

glamour; I know that my power as an artist

income students and joined a gospel choir.

be, that was the outcome�.

lies in my ability to connect with audiences.

Following her mother’s advice, she saved

The album was produced by BjĂśrn Yt-

Today, there is little or no division between

the money she made working at a nursing

tling, from Peter Bjorn and John group,

art and marketing. We are losing sight of

home and selling roses in the streets of

and Greg Kurstin, who has previously

how to keep them apart. My only goal is to

Stockholm and used it to buy her freedom:

worked with Ellie Goulding, Kelly Clark-

write for myself and, as a result, to those who

a one-way ticket to New York. She spent

son, and Pink. After writing songs so close

DUH WUXO\ FRQQHFWHG WR P\ LGHDV´ ‡

some time in Brooklyn until she went back

to her, Lykke considers herself a “survivor�

--

to Sweden, where, in 2008, she launched

– and tha’st how she feels every time she

LYKKELI.COM | INSTAGRAM: @LYKKELI

KHU ÂżUVW UHFRUG Youth Novels.

stands before an audience.

Two years after her debut in the indie

A shot of whiskey: “It’s like being in

scene, Lykke put her name on the map

trance. It is the opposite of my reality when

of pop music with the album Wounded

I am writing. How can someone listen and

Rhymes. The single “I Follow Rivers� sold

VX̆HU ZLWK WKHLU VRQJ DIWHU EHLQJ H[KDXVW-

more than 1 million copies in Europe alone

ed by the creation process? It’s beyond my

and, recently, was in the soundtrack of

understanding! A shot of whiskey helps me

movies Blue is the Warmest Color and Rust

face all that. In a way, singing to crowds

and Bone. After a three year gap – most of

songs that I wrote alone is cathartic�.

which spent sleeping on friends’ couches

Lykke has shared the stage with the

while recovering from a breakup –, Lykke

likes of Kanye West, Robyn, Kings of Leon,

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MUSIC

OSGEMEOS

Art-manifesto, art-delirium, art as a dialogue By Marcos Guinoza :: Photo Eudes de Santana :: Styling Michael Vendola

OTĂ VIO Jacket personal collection and pants ELLUS :: GUSTAVO sweatshirt personal collection and overalls ELLUS

FFWMAG 37

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ART

I THINK

T

he headline reads: “Another work from OSGEMEOS is erased in SĂŁo Pauloâ€?. Another one. Three others had the same destiny in 2013; a few days after they were painted, they disappeared under the gloomy and harsh brushstrokes of

gray applied by government agents. In SĂŁo Paulo, dreaming is illegal; drawing new possibilities is a crime; coloring the ugly city walls, forbidden. In SĂŁo Paulo, everything is gray, and gray they will remain until power is taken over by imagination. “SĂŁo Paulo is chaosâ€?, say OtĂĄvio and Gustavo Pandolfo, the twins of the duo OS*(0(2 7KHLU JUḊWL KDV EHHQ V\VWHPDWLFDOO\ HUDVHG IURP 6mR 3DXOR FLW\ ZDOOV $Fcording to them, SĂŁo Paulo is not a common place. It is a place of birth, dwelling, and creative impulse. It is where they, in the beginning, crated a style and a world of their own – playful and poetic, provocative and familiar; a world inhabited by yellow beings in colorful garments and balaclavas, where the statement against social injustices meets the fantasy and the will to create alternative realities. 26*(0(26 ZHQW IURP GUDZLQJ RQ SDSHU WR ZDOOV WR JDOOHULHV 7KH\ FRXOG OLYH R̆ the celeb conquered on the galleries, high ground of contemporary art, where their paintings are worth thousands of dollars, but the duo came from the streets, have the spirit from the streets, and whenever they feel challenged, that is where they go back, to express ideas, questionings, and outrage. In one of their interventions, in the midst of the riots that shook Brazil in June 2013, they wrote “vinegar is a crimeâ€? on a cracked concrete wall in SĂŁo Paulo. They were soon erased. 5HQRZQHG DUWLVWV IURP DEURDG DQG %UD]LO Âą DEURDG FRPHV ÂżUVW EHFDXVH %UD]LO XVXDO-

ly takes its time in recognizing its own talents –, OSGEMEOS took their art to the next level by adding light, sound, and movement to their work. In their most recent sole exhibition, A Ă“pera da Lua (The Moon Opera, in English), 30 paintings, three sculptures, one musical installation, and a 3D video installation occupy gallery Vilaça, in SĂŁo Paulo. This wide range of technique and outlets make up the thorough, colorful, and oneiric universe created by the twins. This world, we might add, is in permanent expansion, reaching unexpected levels. For two kids who began their course in the streets, scribbling on the city walls after being abducted by hip-hop culture back in the 1980’s, OSGEMEOS reached a level they QHYHU GUHDPHG RI WKH WURSRVSKHUH 7KHLU \HOORZ VNLQQHG FKDUDFWHUV QRZ Ă€\ KLJK DQG IUHH WKURXJK %UD]LOÂśV DLUVSDFH 6LQFH -XQH D %RLHQJ FRYHUHG LQ WKHLU JUḊWL DUW ZRUN cuts through Brazilian skies exhibiting on it fuselage the twins’ art-manifesto, art-delirium, art made up by magical beings in the midst of folkloric feasts, fantastic nature, or on WKH EDWWOH ÂżHOG FU\LQJ IRU IUHHGRP HTXDOLW\ LQ RSSRVLWLRQ WR WKH IDGLQJ DQG GHFLGXRXV “policy of grayâ€?. Bellow, OtĂĄvio and Gustavo Pandolfo reveal what OSGEMEOS think about ten subjects proposed by FFWMAG. When they speak, they are brief and concise. It must be because their main way of expressing themselves has always been drawing – and that’s how they communicate with the world since their childhood. -OSGEMEOS.COM.BR | INSTAGRAM: @OSGEMEOS | FORTESVILACA.COM.BR

FFWMAG 37

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ART

OSGEMEOS

STREET

Occupy. Sﾃグ PAULO

Chaos. GRAFFITI

Our way to use the city, transforming and altering daily life. INSPIRATION

Life, dreams, friends, family, love, hate, travels, challenges, sex, music, art, food, curiosities, hip-hop, truth, graffiti窶ｦ GOD

Light.

Otﾃ｡vio FFWMAG 37

126

ART

I THINK

CONTEMPORARY ART

We prefer timeless art; art as a dialogue. FAME

In truth, we are focused in our work more and more every day. Fame is just a consequence, not a goal. DRUGS

We are not users. FASHION

We love to draw and create clothes and other articles for our characters. Maybe one day we’ll put on a fashion show with them! FUTURE

Now.

Gustavo FFWMAG 37

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ART

Adolescence according to Gia Coppola By João Lourenço

Gia Coppola likes to observe; she feels more comfortable hanging in the background; she rather not be watched. Her discrete persona, a trade from infancy, hints that she was more inclined to direct than to act, watch than being watched. But directing a long feature film requires a large amount of courage, especially for someone who carries the last name of one of Hollywood’s most illustrious clan.

G

ia is the granddaughter of Fran-

on his youth, Palo Alto, was one of the

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ideas. And I took up the challenge. He gave

Coppola, and has family ties with

me complete freedom to adapt the stories

RWKHU UHQRZQHG SHUVRQDOLWLHV LQ WKH ÂżOP industry: Nicolas Cage, Roman Coppola, Jason Schwartzman, Talia Shire.

and turn the book into a movie�. Born to costume designer Jacqueline de La Fontaine, Gia is short to Gian-Car-

The heavy branches of her family tree

OD QDPH RI KHU IDWKHU ÂżOP SURGXFHU *L-

is quite intimidating, as she admits, but

an-Carlo, who died in a speedboat acci-

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dent in May 1986, when Jacqueline was

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just in the beginning of her pregnancy.

feature, Palo Alto, based on Palo Alto:

Before her debut as a movie director, Gia

Stories, a series of short stories written by

studied photography at Bard College, in

actor James Franco.

New York. After graduating, she signed

Gia: Âł, KDG MXVW ÂżQLVKHG FROOHJH ZKHQ ,

ad campaigns for Opening Ceremony and

met James. At the time, I was still trying to

other department stores, worked as a cos-

ÂżJXUH RXW ZKDW ZDV QH[W -DPHV DVNHG PH

tume assistant in the movie Somewhere

to see my photographs and liked them, and

GLUHFWHG E\ 6RÂżD &RSSROD DQG DV

then told me he wanted us to collaborate

an artistic adviser in some of her grandfa-

somehow. The book of short stories based

ther’s projects.

Actress Emma Roberts plays April, a teenager who is tangled up with James Franco’s character in Palo Alto

Tribeca Films

GIA COPPOLA

Tribeca Films

Despite her last name, Gia struggled to

Gia: “I was very frustrated with current

Gia: “I smoked and drank a lot too. I re-

ÂżQG LQYHVWRUV WR VKRRW Palo Alto. Producers

movies about teenagers. I wanted to make

PHPEHU PL[LQJ DOO NLQGV RI EHYHUDJHV Âą WKH

were not fully convinced of her choices, who

something like The Last Picture Show and

sole purpose was to get drunk. Now, I worry

was adamant about using new actors, such

$PHULFDQ *UḊWL, in which young people

when I see teenagers driving drunk, becau-

as Jack Kilmer, Val Kilmer’s son. After a

act as such.�

se they are a part of these fearless craziness

IHZ IUXVWUDWHG DWWHPSWV RI ÂżQDQFLQJ ZKR

The soundtrack by Deb Hynes and Ro-

which is adolescence. I feel that, at that age,

ended up bankrolling the production was

bert Schawrtzman sets the tone for the mo-

HYHU\WKLQJ LV WDNHQ WR H[WUHPHV EHFDXVH

James Franco himself, who took the money

YLH DQG IRU WKH ÂżUVW VH[XDO DGYHQWXUHV DQG

you still don’t get the repercussions of your

he received from Homefront and gave it to

frustrations of its characters.

actions. You say things you think you are su-

Gia. The actor also stars in the feature in the

Gia: “When I began shooting, I was

pposed to say, but it’s not how you really feel�.

role of a youth soccer coach infatuated with

distant enough from my adolescence. The

In its international debut, at Telluride

teenage girls who is tangled up with Emma

feeling of nostalgia allowed me to look

Film Festival, where Francis Ford Coppola

Roberts’ – Julia Roberts’ nice – character.

back and understand more about that

was present to honor his granddaughter,

Gia: “The team that worked in this pic-

strange and uncomfortable time of tran-

Palo Alto was the recipient of enthusiastic

ture is the same that already worked with

sition from adolescence to adult life. It is

critiques – another sign of the talent that

PH ,Q D ZD\ WKLV ZDV WKH ÂżUVW ELJ SURMHFW IRU

that moment when you realize adults are

runs in the family Coppola.

all of us, from the art director to the actors.

DOVR KXPDQ EHLQJV ÀDZHG DQG IUXVWUDWHG

--

,Q VSLWH RI WKH GL̇FXOWLHV RI VKRRWLQJ ZLWK D

Everyone goes through that, no matter

INSTAGRAM: @MASTERGIA

small budget, the enthusiasm on the set was

where they come from. During the produc-

contagious. We didn’t even have trailers. We

tion, I learned that these cycles of changes

ÂżOPHG LQ P\ PRPÂśV DQG 9DO .LOPHUÂśV KRXVH

never end�.

, GLGQœW NQRZ ZKDW WR H[SHFW , RQO\ JUDVSHG what I had in my hands after editing�.

Gia’s camera allows breathing room for the characters, and doesn’t pointing

Palo Alto narrates the lives of a trou-

ÂżQJHUV 6KH FDSWXUHV WKH LPSXOVHV RI DGR-

bled group of teenagers in California, the

lescent anguish in dialogues that can be

parties, hang outs, and passions.

overheard on any street.

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FILM

Director Sophia Coppola, on the right. In the page on the left, scenes from the movie Palo Alto , in which teenagers became delinquents simply out of boredom. Alcohol, drugs and the obsession with sex are a part of the teenagers’ lives

IMAGE TREATMENT BRUNO REZENDE FASHION PRODUCTION INGRID HALPERN AND ORAIDE OLIVEIRA CASTING BILL MACINTYRE MODELS GUSTAVO ALVES (WAY), LUCAS DAMBROS (L’EQUIP), IGOR CAJÁ AND CAIAN MARONI (ELIAN GALLARDO), ADRIANO RUCHINSKI (ROCK), ISABELA EING AND DAIONARA ZWICKER (KEEMOD), CIBELE RAMM (FORD) FIRST PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT SANDOR KISS PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS MARCOS JOSÉ, RODOLFO GOUD AND ALTAMIRO PRATES FASHION PRODUCTION ASSISTANT LETÍCIA ROXO BEAUTY SILVIO GIORGIO (CAPA MGT) BEAUTY ASSISTANTS MARILIO BITARELLO, ALLAN JHONNES, FLAVIO LACERDA, RICARDO VIEIRA AND GUSTAVO ROCHA ACKNOWLEDGEMENT MARCELO NASCIMENTO SPECIAL ACKNOWLEDGMENT SANDOR KISS FOR THE COURTESY PICTURES

take a walk on the wild side Lou Reed

Photo Zee Nunes :: Styling Daniel Ueda :: Beauty Silvio Giorgio

Daionara top, jacket and pants VITORINO CAMPOS

Lucas shorts À LA GARÇONNE

Caian pants LEVI’S shirt TRITON kerchief ROBER DOGNANI

Isabela jacket GRALIAS pants COCA-COLA JEANS shoes ROBER DOGNANI

Adriano vest FKAWALLYS pants DIESEL boots ELLUS socks AMERICAN APPAREL Igor jacket MINHA AVÓ TINHA over vest ESPAÇO FASHION pants JOHN JOHN DENIM boots SHOESTOCK socks AMERICAN APPAREL

Cibele jacket ALE BRITO

Cibele jacket COCA-COLA JEANS body TRIYA

Cibele body TRIYA pants JEANSERIA t-shirt B.LUXO shirt FKAWALLYS ankle boot LILLY’S CLOSET Caian pants LEVI’S shirt AMARRADA TRITON kerchief ROBER DOGNANI boots MINHA AVÓ TINHA socks AMERICAN APPAREL Gustavo pants DIESEL plaid shirt ELEMENT vest DOPPING shirt JEANSERIA boots DTA socks AMERICAN APPAREL

Lucas shorts À LA GARÇONNE

Cibele dress ROBER DOGNANI shirt TRITON pants LANÇA PERFUME sneakers CAMPER POR BERNHARD WILLHELM Daionara dress ROBER DOGNANI shirt TRITON socks AMERICAN APPAREL sneakers CAMPER POR BERNHARD WILLHELM Isabela dress ROBER DOGNANI shirt TASSA socks AMERICAN APPAREL sneakers CAMPER POR BERNHARD WILLHELM

Caian jacket FELIPE FANAIA over jacket LACOSTE shorts MARCELU FERRAZ sneakers ADIDAS ORIGINALS BY JEREMY SCOTT

Igor shirt COLCCI tank top DANILO COSTA flares ADIDAS sneakers NIKE BY RICCARDO TISCI

Lucas vest and skirt HERCHCOVITCH;ALEXANDRE legging R. GROOVE boots ELLUS

Cibele blouse VITORINO CAMPOS sweatpants ADIDAS ORIGINALS shoes ROBER DOGNANI

Adriano vest HERCHCOVITCH;ALEXANDRE bandana stylist’s collection

Gustavo jacket R. GROOVE t-shirt KING CAP shorts and socks R. GROOVE boots ELLUS Lucas sweatshirt, shorts and leggings R. GROOVE boots ELLUS

Adriano jacket DIESEL

Gustavo pants DIESEL shirt ELEMENT vest DOPPING shirt JEANSERIA boots DTA socks AMERICAN APPAREL

Isabela coat TRITON dress ROBER DOGNANI ankle boots CRAVO & CANELA

Daionara jacket FELIPE FANAIA sweatshirt ADIDAS ORIGINALS

Gustavo vest JUSS

Gustavo kimono CAVALERA shirt R. GROOVE over t-shirt OSKLEN pants FKAWALLYS boots ELLUS flags À LA GARÇONNE

Daionara blouse ELLUS

Cibele body TRIYA, pants JEANSERIA t-shirt B.LUXO shirt FKAWALLYS ankle boot LILLY’S CLOSET

Igor vest HERCHCOVITCH;ALEXANDRE

Adriano t-shirt À LA GARÇONNE

Caian jacket and shirt COCA-COLA JEANS

Caian blouse FELIPE FANAIA, shorts CAVALERA

Body in Motion Photo Marcio Simnch :: Styling Thiago Ferraz (AN)

GROOMING FLAVIO LACERDA (CAPA MGT) MODEL PATRICK PIERRE (KEEMOD) FASHION PRODUCTION CAROL ROQUETE AND LUISE FEDERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS OTÁVIO GUARINO AND VITOR JARDIM

FFWMAG 37

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FASHION

tunic ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH MEN punho de tric么 usado como gola

trench bomber TRITON t-shirt TRENDT leggings ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH MEN boots TNG

white shirt DOLCE & GABBANA pants JOﾃグ PIMENTA over leggings NIKE gloves ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH MEN chains TNG

vest ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH MEN chamoix shirt ELLUS over shirt RICARDO ALMEIDA pants TOPMAN chains TNG

tunic ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH MEN punho de tric么 usado como gola

jacket TRITON white shirt DOLCE & GABBANA pants COLCCI gloves ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH belt TOPMAN chains TNG

trench JOﾃグ PIMENTA shirt ELLUS leggings ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH boots TNG

trench bomber TRITON shirt RICARDO ALMEIDA punho de tric么 usado como gola

trench coat TNG tunic and leggins ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH MEN boots TNG

Red beauty Photography Adriano Damas (beSociety) Beauty Lau Neves (Capa Mgt)

HAIR Mousse 04 (REDKEN) Spray Infinium (L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL) SKIN Le Teint Touche Éclat (YVES SAINT LAURENT) Touche Éclat Radiant Touch (YVES SAINT LAURENT) Select Cover-Up (M.A.C) Translucent Crystal Powder (NARS) Mineralize Skinfinish Natural, Dark, Medium, Light (M.A.C)

EYES A Medley of Mauves / Mineralize Eyeshadow x4 (M.A.C) Albatross Illuminator (NARS) A Waft of Grey / Mineralize Eyeshadow x4 (M.A.C) LIPS Lip Tar / Pretty Boy (OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE COSMETICS) Lip Tar / Radiant (OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE COSMETICS) jacket BILLABONG

ARTISTIC MAKEUP 24 colors palette Aquacolor (KRYOLAN) Blush Coeur Battant (NARS) Glitter (M.A.C)

STYLING ANTONIO MULLER BEAUTY ASSISTANT TAYRINE PREVIDELI PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS CARLOS SALES E DENIS ANES DEAN MOLERO MODEL CIBELE RAMM (FORD)

Karen Fuke, Nicola Formichetti, Brendon Babenzien & Graeme McMillan em conversa com FFWMAG

By Camila Yahn

Karen Fuke Photo Tavinho Costa

KAREN FUKE

When we asked Karen Fuke what makes her snap, she just answered: “I think the right question is what doesn’t make me snap”. That answer says a lot about Karen: someone transparent, grounded, humble, and serious about her work. Karen is 37 and has been at Triton for 14 years. She got the job soon

no one, brings to the runway a youthful energy that seems to be the

after she graduated from Santa Marcelina, in São Paulo, in fashion

Holy Grail of contemporary fashion.

GHVLJQ $V 7X¿ 'XHN¶V DSSUHQWLFH ± WKH OHJHQGDU\ IRXQGHU RI 7ULWRQ

Karen’s father, of Japanese descent, is a PE teacher, while her

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mother has ventured into fashion industry as a store owner. Both

him not only about style and product, but also about management

her mother and grandmother always made clothes for her and her

and leadership. In 2007, she was promoted to creative director, job

siblings, tradition adopted by Karen, who has two daughters, ages

VKH VWLOO KROGV ± DQG VKH LV JHWWLQJ EHWWHU DW LW HYHU\ GD\

12 and 7. “I’ve made them skirts, dresses, lots of things.”

Lately, Karen’s shows ahead of Triton at São Paulo Fashion

Below, she talks about her work at Triton, love of music, today’s

Week are always among the strongest each season. She, better than

youth, and how she feels about social networks.

It’s not a habit of mine. I read FFW, for ex-

Blum, who does our soundtracks, also lis-

ample, and other websites and maga-

tens to the same things that I do... And

I joined in 2000, working with denim and

zines I believe make important com-

that’s how I flow.

leather in the style division. I was more

ments. I try to understand what is said,

comfortable with modeling. Denim was

assess, and apply it in a way that can be

What do you like most about working in

new to me and I had a lot of freedom to

useful to the evolution of my work.

a big company?

Tell us about your creative process.

AMC Têxtil (holder of Triton) has always

What’s your story at Triton?

experiment. Tufi gave me room to grow and I did. In 2008, the company was sold and suddenly I didn’t have his support

given me a lot of freedom. Working at a

anymore. But maturity and freedom

NThere isn’t a rule. I am sort of unorga-

company with a big infrastructure has its

where important for me; I had to learn

nized. I’ve always been more intuitive. I

advantages. All kinds of experiments and

how to trail that path alone.

meet with stylist Daniel Ueda and we dis-

developments are possible. Everything

cuss references and save images that we

has to keep turning, nothing can sit there,

Lately, your work has been on the spot-

cross by. I work with him on intuition. Musi-

from fabrics to supplies. There are many

light and Triton’s fashion shows listed

cal reference is also very important to

people working there in order to keep

among the best each season of SPFW.

me. I go online and search for the new

things moving. Of course the pressure ex-

Do you read what journalists and crit-

band, the new hit. Lovefoxxx always sends

ists, just like in any other company.

ics write about them?

me songs that remind her of me. Max

FFWMAG 37

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FASHION

CONVERSATION

“Young people are well informed up to a point. Their level of knowledge is superficial; few of them know the whole story.”

What is the equation between what we

Today, in fashion, it is impossible to live

You have a Japanese background. Is

see on the runaway and what actually

on the outskirts of what goes on social

Tokyo streetwear or Japanese culture

goes to the stores?

networks. How active are you?

in general recurring influences for you?

For the commercial collection, I use more

I have a Tumblr, Fuke77 (www.fuke77.tum-

Yes. My grandfather is Japanese and my

affordable prints. The way the dresses are

blr.com), which I don’t even talk much

father lived in Japan for a while. That’s

built makes it complicated to produce

about. I don’t have a lot of patience for

when he found out our real last name is

them on a large scale. Cost makes every-

social networks and I don’t like self-pro-

Reike, but my grandparents changed it

thing harder, because noble fabrics and

motion. Everyone wants to share every-

when they escaped the war. Fuke came

elaborated modelling are expensive. We

thing all the time. I rather focus on other

later, it was made up and it almost doesn’t

try to simplify the design for the stores, so

things.

exist in Japan (laughs). I always liked the

we make these translations, but there are

culture and I even took Japanese lessons

always about 20 to 30 articles within the

How do you feel about blogs? Do you

as a teen. Japan is an inspiration for me,

concept of the collection that find their

follow any?

no doubt. Everything they do has an artis-

way to the stores.

tic aspect. Everything that I’ve been At this age, young people are in search of

through with my family, the art of Japa-

How do you see today’s youth? Does

who they are, including style wise. I think

nese writing, the garments…

that influence your creation in any way?

that, sadly, blogs are killing what people truly feel, who they would really like to be.

Today’s youth is definitely more online

Who are your friends and what do you like to do?

than offline. They express themselves so

Do you let yourself be inspired by the

much better through a screen (computer,

styles and behaviors that come from

People that I work or have worked with.

cellular phone, tablet). Not to mention so-

the streets?

When Lovefoxxx worked at Triton we be-

cial networks, apps… I’m certainly inspired

came really close. We stay at home listen-

by them, especially the ones who have

Yes, and it is very important, but in Brazil is

the talent to share good images, collages,

hard to identify a stronger style, it all

photographs, art, fashion. Posts with too

seems superficial. When I travel, I have a

Where does your love of music

much text annoy me a little. I have to fol-

clearer perception. For some reason,

come from?

low everything to keep up, and it’s so easy,

people abroad are able to convey their

you just google something and there are

personality in the way they dress. Here

My brother, nine years my senior, is a musi-

a million answers to what you are looking

there is this infinity of fashion bloggers,

cian. I never had a band, but my musical

for. I try to filter information.

and people see that and are inspired by

taste was influenced by him. In the begin-

them. It seems fabricated and unnatural.

ning of the 1990’s, he had a band and

ing to music or go out to dance or eat.

played at Madame Satã. I loved this dark-

Young people today are better informed. How does that increase the

Your husband is connected to skate (he

challenge to develop an image that

represents Adidas and other brands in

ly enjoyed Nick Cave’s last album, Push the

will please them?

the skateboarding segment). Does that

Sky Away. I learned how to play the bass,

environment impact your work?

but my fingers weren’t strong enough. So I

They are better informed up to a point.

er genre. I liked Kraftwerk, The Cure... I real-

took up piano. My eldest daughter is dying

Since everything happens so fast, their lev-

Very much. I end up being in contact with

to follow that road. She wants to be just like

el of knowledge is superficial; few of them

these kids ages 20, 23; we are the old

Lovefoxxx and wants to learn how to play

know the whole story. It does increase the

ones in the crowd (laughs). Their style is

no matter what (laughs).

challenge greatly, but I believe it’s all

very urban and totally unconcerned

about getting the right look, even when

about fashion. I find that lifestyle very re-

we are reinventing and proposing a new

freshing and inspiring.

image with sensibility and personality.

FFWMAG 37

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FASHION

KAREN FUKE

“Abroad I see styles with more personality. Here there is this infinity of fashion bloggers and people are inspired by them.”

Your style is very different from the

I apply energy (okiyome), Mahikari Art,

clothes you make.

since I was 15 and I’ve always believed in

What fashion faux-pas are you guilty of?

the cosmic energy of the universe. I sensed

I still love to wear creepers (laughs). Actu-

I’m going through a masculine phase

that same energy in California, watching

ally, I don’t even know if that is a fashion

right now. I find in hard finding clothes

people in their quest for spirituality, trying

faux-pas…

here, so I end up wearing black jeans, a

to find themselves, in search for a better

shirt or a t-shirt, and a men’s jeans jacket.

life, in touch with nature. Aesthetically

That is how I dress.

speaking, I am an admirer of the symbols

I really like the work of Dries Van Noten,

present in the Wicca universe. What are you afraid of?

like Comme des Garçons, despite finding it complicated; I’ve always enjoyed this

I can’t stand people who wear clothes too big for their bodies.

Ann Demeulemeester, and Rick Owens. It is to die for, I would have everything. I also

And what can’t you stand?

What is your favorite decade in fashThe extinction of the fashion designer.

ion?

Why do you think about that?

The 1990’s, because that’s when I lived my

exercise of shapes. And I respect Rei Kawakubo’s courage. I also love Prada,

adolescence. I also like the 1920’s.

because she has a commercial approach, sells a lot, but has a special look.

I don’t know if there are good fashion students anymore, and I don’t see invest-

Can you disconnect from fashion and

ments towards that. I believe there is an

collections when you do?

extinction of the fashion designer. Girls

Muse? Lou Doillon.

graduating today choose Isabel Marant I enjoy travelling, but I’ve been doing that

as inspiration for their final projects. With all

Before, you said that you find it hard to

less often because my team is very new, so

due respect, that scares me a little. I don’t

find clothes here. Have you ever thought

there are a lot of things that, at the end of

know how schools are preparing these

about having your own brand and cre-

the day, I have to handle. Training people

kids today. There was a very different take

ating these articles you can’t find?

is not an easy job. I have 20 people in my

when I was a student. My friends always tell me that I should have

team, six at women’s style, and everyone is new at the company. I am a mother, and

You welcome a lot of interns at Triton.

my own label. But I don’t know… I don’t

as much as I try to delegate, I also need to

Do you have the same perception?

think about this now. Brazil is so difficult. There is the matter of the money; you have

follow things closely. It’s exhausting. However, when I am on vacation with my

We call them young apprentices. They are

to be able to sell... I would like to go some-

family, I am able to disconnect, yes, espe-

teenagers who want to study fashion. They

where where I could cook, bring together

cially if I go somewhere that helps me

start there at 16 and stay for two years.

gastronomy, music, and store. But I don’t

meditate, a beach in Ubatuba or Paraty. It

Some already have certain skills, others

think about it a lot. I don’t know if it is just a

takes a while, but I disconnect

not. I hired an architecture student to help

crazy dream or if that day will actually

us during a show and she knew nothing

฀

For your summer 2014 collection you

about fashion. But something hit her; she

--

went to California and we saw a mystical

started to do a lot of research while she

INSTAGRAM: @KARENFUKE

side of you, sort of wicca. Is that a part of

was here. That was very nice. But I think that

your day-to-day? Are you mystical?

people who are still very young have a

See the all the looks and details from Triton’s S/S 2015 collection on FFW.COM.BR

certain amount of arrogance; newly I don’t know that I am mystical, but I have

grads already arrive with an attitude. And I

a certain sensibility. In my life I try to take

always say: no one starts like this; you

the complication out of things, everything

have to jump through the hoops.

happens quickly, and that sensibility helps me do that.

FFWMAG 37

187

FASHION

By Camila Yahn

Nicola Formichetti Photo Jean-Paul Pietrus

CONVERSATION

“Let’s break everything�, says Nicola Formichetti in the beginning of our conversation. To those who follow the work of Diesel’s new creative director there is no doubt: his goal is to bring the brand to a new level when it comes to branding, product, and digital media.

Photo Alex Sainsbury

Will he make it? In order to answer this question, we must go back in time. Born to a Japanese mother and an Italian father, Nicola discovered himself in the streets of London, back in the 1990’s, where his taste for fashion became a passion and his craving for novelty, an obsession.

o, in the beginning of the 2000’s, he developed into one of

S

Mugler’s creative director, preparing its return to Paris catwalks.

the main image creators in the world, using the pages of the

Naturally, he wouldn’t last in a house strained by the rules

revered Dazed & Confused to reveal his vision, replacing

of high luxury and an old-fashioned system. Formichetti left the

models for people he found on the streets, building a style that

small high fashion world of Mugler to join a company that speaks

prioritized conception, madness, and the unthinkable.

to young people and demands creativity, freshness, and agility – H[DFWO\ ZKDW KH KDV WR R̆HU

As a stylist, he worked with Alexander McQueen and Prada, among other great talents. In parallel, Formichetti was establish-

Now, with Diesel behind him, he wants to break free from the

ing his online universe: what the magazine didn’t print, he posted

“fashion bubble� and create a new community, a new language, a

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new time. Yes, it is quite a challenge, but breaking the rules has

day he would be in Tokyo, another in Mexico, then a party in Paris

always been a part of a creative director’s job description.

followed by a meeting in New York.

Someone who possesses oriental concentration, hot Italian

During a shooting for V. Magazine, he was introduced to Lady

blood, and the irreverence from London might be all that fashion QHHGV ḢFLHQF\ DFWLRQ FUHDWLYLW\

Gaga. He saw in her a new vessel to create images. Her willingness

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to risk and break boundaries is what made the Formichetti-Gaga partnership work so well for the both of them.

able to get him on the phone.

)RUPLFKHWWL EHFDPH D FHOHEULW\ RQ DQG R̆ OLQH $QG WKHQ FFWMAG 37

Break everything, Nicola.

189

FASHION

NICOLA FORMICHETTI

“It’s been a while since Internet stopped being the future; it is now. Do you think the consumer cares about what the critics are saying? They want to know what Rhianna is wearing on Instagram.”

changed everything and I love that be-

twice my age. And that’s the issue: the

cause we can still make incredible

power of decision-making is in the

things. At Diesel we are going to have

hands of older people. I believe that, if

more digital media and more energy on

they don’t change, they will fall behind.

the social networks and in moving imag-

One day everything is going to change.

es. Our new campaign was shot by Nick

I believe that in the next two years big

I spend two weeks in Italy, where Diesel is

Knight using an iPhone and two apps

changes will come in this regard. Who

based, and two in New York, where my

(Glitch and Mega Photo), specially for

buys CDs anymore?

home is. But I miss London and that ener-

the online community. But we still want to

gy that comes from the streets. In New

be surprised by a beautiful magazine

York, everything is about money and in

cover or a story or something from “real

London you simply meet people, no

life”. It is a good moment to stop and

Fashion is based on fear. Skinny models in

strings attached. The city is full of people

watch what’s happening.

tight clothes… Who is like that in real life?

Nicola! How have you been? Going crazy. The usual. How do you split your time nowadays?

who want to invent. I’m thinking about moving back.

How do you see fashion today?

This woman is light-years from real womYou are obsessed with social networks

en. It is the fear factor; and it works! I think

and they have always been a part of

there are other ways to show incredible

Are experiencing a time when the ener-

your work. Today, are they more power-

and positive things. Renzo Rosso, our

gy from the streets is fading because

ful than traditional media?

team at Diesel and I have that in com-

people spend too much time online?

mon, we see life in a positive way. We get Absolutely. A post on Instagram is much

together, get drunk, eat good pasta

After the Internet we are finally able to say

more powerful than an ad on a maga-

(laughing). There’s no bullshit.

we are global. It is an excellent tool of

zine. I love magazines and I am one of

communication, but what happens is

the greatest supporters for their contin-

Leaving Mugler for a jeanswear brand

that people don’t goes to the streets the

ued existence. As a company, we adver-

is quite a change.

way they used to. And the street is where

tise on magazines so they can afford to

things happen, the zeitgeist, young peo-

survive, but they are a product purely for

I came from a world of high fashion and

ple blending in with old ones; it has a

fashion industry readers. No one reads

ended up at Diesel, which has a freshness

unique energy. Today, there is so much

magazines anymore, but they have the

that I aspired. In high fashion you have to

going on online that people don’t look at

support of the industry so they can keep

be a bitch to make yourself heard. There’s

that anymore. Things are still insane and

going. Internet has stopped being the

not what I want for my life because I am

fucked up and people have stopped

future for a while. The future has arrived.

not a bad person, I am a nice person.

looking and them. Everyone can have

It is now! Do you think the consumer

their own space online, which is great, In-

cares about what the critics are saying?

Your first show at Diesel was not in Mi-

ternet offers that, but that is what was cool

They want to know what Rihanna is

lan or Paris, but in Venice. Have these

about the streets, when people gathered

wearing on Instagram.

capitals become old for the new gener-

in small groups of friends and created

ation?

their own tribes. Today, everything is com-

Fashion has always had a connection

pletely different. Internet is so crazy; you

to what is new and avant-garde. Today,

No, I wanted to show in a different place

never know what’s going to happen.

many brands still don’t believe in the

because I want the viewers to have a

power of the internet, and that feels

unique experience, something they can

very old-fashioned. Why do they resist?

remember. Because a fashion show, in

How should we measure the importance of the Internet?

the midst of so many, can be boring… The high ranks of fashion are made of

As a business you have to stick to the

older people who want to safeguard

With social networks making our lives

streets, but it is impossible to ignore the

what they know. Even I, age 37, find it

much faster, do you think we can ex-

digital.

hard to follow. Think of them who are

pect a change in the fashion calendar?

FFWMAG 37

Instagram,

Twitter,

Tumblr

190

FASHION

CONVERSATION

“People with the decision-making power in high fashion are older and want to protect what they know. I believe that, if they don’t change, they will fall behind.”

Perhaps showing summer during sum-

Diesel is a good example. When I come

Suddenly you become a product and

mer and winter during winter?

up with crazy stuff, Renzo says: “Go crazi-

people say whatever they want about

er”. No one has ever told me that before.

you without even knowing you. All nega-

Yes, we need to change! One of my goals

At the same time I still want to take risks

tive. Then you learn that there are also

is to find a new fashion system. Don’t you

and be controversial, I want the clothes to

those who like you and that can be a

think is wrong to show summer during

be really good. Today, I’m not crazy for

source of positive energy. The fans who

winter and vice-versa? Fashion system is

the sake of it. I found a balance and I

stop me on the street, for example, give

somewhat obsolete. We need to change,

want to use this strength to, slowly, change

me so much positive energy, and that

hit the refresh button.

the way people look at fashion, because

makes me deal better with all of it.

the system is outdated. At Diesel you have the support to cre-

You’ve found a new singer to dress.

ate a new language, but what are the

When you came to Brazil in 2007 to give

How is you relationship with Brooke

challenges to make that happen?

a lecture at Pense Moda, you were very

Candy?

shy and you froze when it came the Start small. Diesel has their customers, but

time to speak in public. Today you are

I love that girl. She is going to be the next

maybe those customers are not the peo-

hit. She is crazy… I saw her on the Grimes’

ple we are going after. We created the

video and she looked fucking insane. I

Diesel Reboot Tumblr to focus on digital

sent her a message on Twitter and that’s

creativity. If you think about it, it is a small

how we started. It was very spontaneous.

angle. But we met so many incredible

She is raw, really. I think we can do good

people around the world and slowly we

things together.

are building a community. There’s always so much going on with The hard thing was convincing the com-

you at the same time. What’s next?

pany, making them understand that this was the right thing to do. Renzo was excit-

Now I’m focused on the launch of my first

ed, but the company has thousands of

full blown collection for Diesel, in stores in

people, it’s been around for 25 years…

August. The theme was online community

There were internal problems. No one

and I am using a lot of cool people I

wants to change; it’s difficult to change,

found on Tumblr. I don’t want it to be just a

especially if you have a 9 to 5 job. But we

project. Internet is not only for marketing;

have an alternative spirit and lots of ener-

it is part of a whole.

gy. Things are happening. Final line at Diesel’s show, 2014

there is the possibility of launching my

What are your plans as a creative director? Change takes time. I want to bring Diesel

I have a lot of projects and in my dreams

well-known, deal with famous people

own label. We’re probably coming to Bra-

on a daily basis, and always give inter-

zil between September and October for a

views. Are you still shy?

Diesel event. I’m curious and my open at

into the full front of digital media. We have

heart, always looking for new things. I’ll ฀

฀ ฀฀

lots of people working in the company.

I was a baby when I went to Brazil. But I

Everyone is going to be blown away! Just

haven’t changed a bit. I’m still shy and

wait and see.

get nervous when I deal with celebrities.

--

What changed is that now I feel more re-

INSTAGRAM: @NICOLAFORMICHETTI

What do you mean when you talk about

laxed. Working with Gaga brought me to

creating a new fashion system?

the public eye and I didn’t like it at first.

FFWMAG 37

191

Veja mais fotos em FFW.COM.BR

FASHION

By Kรกtia Lessa

Brendon Babenzien Photo Noah Emrich

CONVERSATION

In a rare interview, Brendon Babenzien, Supreme’s creative director, the most revered streetwear label in the world, talks about achieving success without losing sight of the DNA from the streets.

Fan of the label, Lady Gaga poses for Supreme

rriving in New York, in 1984, all

the shop, previously deserted, became the

WLRQV ZLWK 'DPLHQ +LUVW DQG -H̆ .RRQV

Englishman James Jebbia knew

meeting point for boys who spent their days

was like that; but who thinks Supreme

A

was that he wanted to work with

VNDWLQJ 7KH ¿UVW ERRP KDSSHQHG ZKHQ GL-

made a wrong turn along the way is mis-

FORWKLQJ +H EHJDQ DV D VDOHVPDQ DW D ÀHD

rector Larry Clark decided to invite the kids

taken. The brand prefers to protect their

market, then he opened Union, store that

who were Supreme’s regulars, and even the

fundamental values to opening a store in a

sold English brands such as Fred Perry, and,

employees, to be in the movie Kids (1995).

mall somewhere just to boost sales. In an

later, was invited to manage a Californian

But it wasn’t until rapper Tyler, The Creator

interview for The New York Times, artist

appeared on MTV’s music award wearing a

Nate Lowman recalls that Jebbia wasn’t

cap bearing the brand’s red logo, that the

SOHDVHG WR ¿QG WKDW RQH RI KLV VNDWHV ZDV

label left the cult bubble behind.

hanging on the walls of gallery Gagosian as

famous streetwear brand, Stüssy. When the business was over, Jebbia had the market know-how. It was then, in 1994, that he decided to open, on Lafayette Street

“People think that only because we are

a work of art and told the curators to avoid

– an inhospitable street, though great for

known as a skatewear band, our clientele is

doing that: “They belong under kids’ feet”.

skating –, Supreme, which ten years later

made of morons. They also want new thing

James’ right-hand man, Brendon Baben-

would become known in the fashion world

at a high level. All that matters is quality”,

zien, Supreme’s creative director, wit-

as “the Chanel from the streets”.

said Jebbia, during a rare interview for Ger-

nessed the label’s story from the beginning

man magazine 032c.

and helps dictate the next steps. He spoke

The label was sort of a shared secret between those who lived the streets’ creative

From that to ads featuring Lou Reed

scene in the city. The asphalt in front of

and Lady Gaga and collaborative collec-

FFWMAG 37

193

to FFWMAG.

FASHION

BRENDON BABENZIEN

“People think that only because we are known as a skatewear brand, our clientele is made of idiots.”

How did you start working at Supreme?

our own. I can say that the shop used to

in ads, but it’s still respected by original

be wilder that it is today. We were also a

clientele. What is the secret to creating

It was in 1997. My relationship with the

meeting spot for kids who skated and

without losing the essence?

band is long. Basically I was the first per-

lived their lives the way they felt like.

son hired to work exclusively with design and clothing development. When a brand is so revered, many tales

Supreme still is a skatewear brand. It so Today you work as creative director.

happens that New York’s skate culture is

What is your responsibility in practical

very diverse. Skaters, by nature, are

terms?

open-minded; fashion, music, art, and lit-

are there to be told. What is the truth about Supreme’s foundation?

erature are already a part of their lives. The truth is that we have the best design

Supreme understands that. And, if the rest

team and creative people I could wish

of the world likes what we do and uses it

The history behind it is very simple. In

for, and that makes my work very simple.

in other ways, we don’t see it as some-

1994, there were no labels that design ap-

Our process is democratic and a good

thing negative, but as something we’re

parel for the skating com-

proud of. We still work the

munity in New York. They

same way we did when we

existed in California, but

first started. The label has

the groups from the east

become big, but the mem-

and west were very differ-

ory of the kids skating on

ent. Supreme was just a

our doorstep and still do

new way of thinking what a

remain our priority.

skatewear label could be. What do you think keeps What kind of products did

attracting

you sell? What were New

since 1994?

those

kids

Yorkers’ skaters looking for? We try to make a product We sold products from oth-

that is relevant for today’s

er companies, but each

style at a good price. Basi-

season we added some-

cally, our consumer is very

thing of our own. What was

sophisticated,

interesting about it was that

own style, and knows what

we noticed there was a small group that had a par-

Lou Reed, by Terry Richardson, in Supreme’s ad campaign

has

their

is in. If we make good things, they’ll keep coming

ticular lifestyle, the same lifestyle that to-

idea can come from anyone. I create

back. If we make crap things, they’ll stop

day we identify as Supreme’s. This style

with colleagues that have various inter-

coming. So, I guess we are committed to

still didn’t exist in cities like London or To-

ests, so the process is very rich and organ-

making quality products so people won’t

kyo. It took a while for “Supreme’s influ-

ic. All I have to do is make sure that they

be disappointed and come back.

ence” to stretch to other parts of the world.

are giving the best they can. I also like to

We were just a group of kids from New

manage fabric, colors, and patterns of

How do you see the streetwear market

York. With the internet, young people

everything we make. Fabrics are very im-

these days?

across the globe began exchanging in-

portant for Supreme.

formation and crowds who shared the

People have always been innovative

same interests connected. Before that,

Supreme started as a small skatewear

about the way they dress. That happens

our client base was much smaller and we

label, it had Kermit, the frog, Lady

everywhere around the world and it gen-

didn’t influence other universes outside

Gaga, Terry Richardson, and Kate Moss

erally starts with young people. The ex-

FFWMAG 37

194

FASHION

CONVERSATION

“Supreme’s directors don’t make decisions solely based on profit. We chose what is right for our culture.”

pression streetwear is just a label created

good. The people I know who have style

Supreme makes successful collabora-

by the industry, and I don’t recognize it. I

already have good things in their ward-

tive collections. Many times kids will

think that young people are attracted by

robes and don’t spend too much time

sleep in line to buy items from limited

style. Streetwear or not, it doesn’t really

with that. They pick whatever and leave

collections. What do you search for in

matter. We only want to make nice things.

while thinking about other matters.

other brands?

What are Supreme’s criteria when

What is your fashion sin?

Collaborations are often misunderstood.

opening new stores?

We search for partners who are better I try not to worry so much about clothes to

than us in some respect. Vans for skating

New stores are opened in places that

the point that I would commit a fashion

shoes, The North Face for outwear, Com-

match our style. Basically, we choose

sin. If you dress to be cool and not your-

me des Garçons for graphic tees and

spots where kids can hang out. Besides,

self, that is not interesting.

other things. We never collaborate for

they need to be in urban centers, where

marketing purposes. Usually, what hap-

there is a natural flow to-

pens is that when we want

wards things that inspire

something well-made and

design and the act of skat-

we can’t find it, we unite

ing. That is why our stores

with the best. In other cas-

are never found in the sub-

es, we like to work with art-

urbs or malls.

ists, musicians etc. who are fans of the label, or with

At any point, did you find

people who have had a

it difficult to deal with suc-

huge influence on us, but

cess or the fear of losing

who are little known to

the brand’s spirit?

younger

clients. That

is

what happened with musiPeople who work with us

cians Shane MacGowan

have the same lifestyle em-

and Daniel Johnston.

bedded in our creations. Therefore, it is impossible to

Supreme has stores in

be affected negatively by

New York, Los Angeles, To-

success.

kyo, Nagoya, Osaka, and

doesn’t

Management make

decisions

solely based on profit. We

Fukuoka. Any chance of

Posters of Kate Moss, by Alasdair McLellan, in NY

opening a flagship in Brazil?

chose what is right for our culture. We know we have a huge following in What goes through your head when

Do you miss participating in fashion

Brazil, but at the moment it is not in our

you are getting dressed in the morning?

weeks and the glamour that comes

plans. However, we do keep our minds

from the runways?

open to all possibilities. That has been the

I try to think of the correct outfit for the

key to our progress. Who knows one

specific events I’ll attend during the day. I

Absolutely not. It is a business like any oth-

rarely pay attention to fashion or new

er. I don’t get carried away by the indus-

trends. I believe that too much informa-

try’s glamour. Actually, I find it very insipid.

tion can lead you astray from your style. I

I never wanted to be famous or anything.

rather pay attention to what happens

I like what I do, and that is enough.

฀

around me and what makes me feel

FFWMAG 37

195

FASHION

By Camila Yahn

Graeme McMillan

CONVERSATION

Reproduction

We can say Graeme McMillan is a “hardcore sneaker head”, borrowing an expression he used during this interview. It was his passion for tennis shoes, at the dawn of the sneaker culture in the 1980’s – of which Nike was the protagonist –, that made him dream of working at the label.

Born in Scotland and brought up in the United States, Graeme studied Industrial Design and worked in Germany and Holland before moving to Portland, where Nike is based. Today he is design director in the sections Sportswear, Running, and Global Football. Graeme is one of the main creative minds in the company and spends his time dreaming about new products, resolving issues of functionality, and understanding new technologies we can’t even envisage. Graeme spoke to FFWMAG on the phone, directly from Portland, and talked about his love of sneakers, collaborating with Riccardo Tisci, and the balance between past, present, and future – the key of success in launching new products. FFWMAG 37

197

FASHION

GRAEME MCMILLAN

“We have groups of costumers who test models for us. It is important to be connected to them; they test our products and are honest about what they like and don’t like .” When did you realize you were an afi-

and it became a fashion item. Every-

when lunar technology didn’t exist. To-

cionado of sneaker culture and wan-

thing about it was original and part of

day, it is lighter and much more flexib-

ted to work for Nike?

the story was based on this new idea of

le. What we can do is try to make the

showing part of the technology imbed-

classics even better. There is a balan-

At first, it was technology that captured

ded in it, which improved shock ab-

ce between innovation and respect

my imagination. But in the beginning of

sorption. The colors and the apparent

for classic design.

the 1980’s, kids in the great urban cen-

cushions made it unique and, on the

ters, like New York, wore tennis shoes in

plus side, it performed better than other

a different way. It was the start of what

running shoes in the market.

became known as the sneaker culture.

What is lunar technology? It is our higher lever of shock absorption

But it only became a real thing when

How

they started using Air Force 1, baske-

enhance or improve Nike’s classics?

do

today’s

innovations

can

tball shoes, in the streets. It was one of

cushion for running and basketball shoes based on a very precise chemical equation.

the first pair of sneakers I had. To me

Flyknit model, re-

it is an icon. I belie-

cently

ve this went down

brings a new tech-

that way due to Mi-

nology: it features

chael

a

Jordan

as

launched,

precise

knit

an athlete, in addi-

construction, it is

tion to the looks

very light (160 g),

and

and doesn’t apply

technology

involved in them. I

the

would

say

those

rials and cuts used

events

are

what

in traditional sho-

made me hooked.

es, resulting in a

same

greener

mate-

product.

The Air Max was

Is that also one of

created

Nike’s concerns?

in

1987

and is still celebrated.

What

Yes, Flyknit is a gre-

makes it one of the most iconic sneakers in the world?

at example of sus-

Flyknit in detail

tainability, since it

From the get go, Nike has been a

almost doesn’t produce any waste in its

The Air Max 1 had a different approach

groundbreaking company that works

manufacturing since it has only one

from other running shoes that were

for the enhancement of running shoes

layer structure. Besides, it is efficient

being designed at the time. When it was

and other products for athletes. We

and it works the way runners need them

invented, many

get

have a long story in innovation and

to. It is 19% lighter than the model Zoom

behind it because it was radically diffe-

we associate technology from the pre-

Streak 3, worn by the winners of the

rent than what was out there. People

sent with design from the past, always

men’s marathon in 2011’s world cham-

either loved it or hated it, and that

searching for an evolution. The tech-

pionship. We’ve adapted the innova-

made it an icon. It is an item that brou-

nologies we have available today, like

tion regarding performance to make

ght a different concept in terms of looks

Flyknit, among

exist

models that people would love even

and idea. There is also the fact that it

when we created the iconic sneakers.

more, thinking about the pillars of need,

was created to be a performance shoe

The Air Max 1 was launched in 1987,

technology, and less waste.

FFWMAG 37

people

didn’t

others, didn’t

198

FASHION

CONVERSATION

“The partnership with Ricardo Tisci happened very naturally. He takes Nike to the fashion circle, but also reaches the sneaker head, people who love our product.”

Does the general public have access

them; they test our products and are

ys have to reach the next level. Someti-

to the same technology destined to

honest about what they like and what

mes it takes a lot of time, but we keep

athletes?

don’t like. We are very connected to

building and innovating.

that community. They are hardcore sneIt depends on the sport. There are pro-

Recently, you’ve launched a sneaker

aker heads.

fessional players and runners who have

(Air Force 1) in collaboration with Ric-

signature models, which provide a

What are the main efforts you and

cardo Tisci, Givenchy’s creative direc-

more specific fit for their feet. But the te-

your team make to combine new tech-

tor. Is fashion an important direction

chnology employed, be it lunar or flyk-

nologies to viable products? How

for Nike?

nit, is the same we use on lifestyle pro-

much time does it take for an idea to

ducts. The technology platforms are the

reach the stores?

That partnership happened in a natural and organic way. Tisci has been a fan of

same for all.

Nike’s for a long Do you speak to

time. During a con-

athletes

sponso-

versation, we asked

red by Nike to un-

him if he wanted to

derstand

do something that

what

they want out of a

was, equal

new product?

Nike and Riccardo

parts,

Tisci. He takes Nike Yes, and that is a

to the fashion circle,

very

but

important

also

reaches

part of our job wi-

the sneaker head,

thin the performan-

people who love

ce department. We

our product.

often

meet

with

them to come up

Are

with

collaborations

better

pro-

ducts and to get

there

more to

come?

an insight, a starting

point,

and

meet their needs.

I can’t confirm any-

Three models of the Flyknit

thing yet, but what I

But we also really like to speak with cus-

That is a good question. The shortest

can say is that we like working with people

tomers, to people who love sneakers,

answer is that it may take up to 20 years

who bring new ideas and share our love

who use them every day. It is important

from the original idea to the shelves.

of innovation and performance at the

that we know if they like them and how

We’ve learned that looking at the past

same time, as is the case with Tisci. A cou-

they feel about the products.

may contribute to recent research. The

ple of years ago, we worked with artist Tom

ideas we have at Nike are still linked to

Sachs to create NIKECraft and that also

And how do you reach these custo-

the ones we had in the past in terms of

was very organic. The important thing is to

mers?

functionality or problem solving. I always

share that connection, to be close to peo-

tell designers who work with me: we le-

ple who share that same passion.

There are several ways. For example,

arn more from the products that didn’t

--

we have groups of people who try mo-

get out, that were flawed. At the end, our

NIKE.COM

dels for us. That way we are linked to

work is like the work of an artist: we alwa-

FFWMAG 37

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Adriana Bozon

TALK

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Adriana tells us that she follows the same style as her

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there is a meeting including the whole team.

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INSTAGRAM: @ADRIANABOZON

FFWMAG 37

201

FASHION

ADRIANA BOZON

FFWMAG 37

202

FASHION

TALK

Adriana explains that she follows the same style as her office and the building. As she’s been in the company for 20 years, she can no longer say where Ellus’ style influenced her and vice-versa FFWMAG 37

203

FASHION

FFWMAG 37

AD D RE S S ES À L A GA R Ç O N N E 11 2364 3280 alagarconne.com.br

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204

Photo Adriano Damas. Jeans Amapô

“In Brazil, there is a great awareness about that part of the body. So, no matter the model, high or low waist, light or dark wash, flare or skinny, the butt needs to stay up, you know?” Carô Gold and Pitty Taliani, from Amapô

TILL THE NEXT

www.melissa.com.br

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