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Golden Fork from Northern Ireland
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WILD THING
Baronscourt’s Sika venison loin is a beautiful byproduct of the culling that is necessary to maintain a healthy herd, says the estate’s owner, Lord Hamilton.
THE WILD JAPANESE Sika deer that roam the Baronscourt Estate in County Tyrone might have to contend with more adverse weather than their antelope cousins in the Serengeti, but they have just as much freedom.
“Ours are wild deer, not parkland deer. And when I say wild, I mean wild,” says Lord Hamilton. “If they want, they can leave the estate and wander into Donegal.”
Being wild, the deer have a varied seasonal diet, grazing on the flora and fauna that grows naturally on the 5,500-acre estate. This ranges from saplings in the winter to rye grass in the summer, and contributes to the soft, sweet, flavour of Sika venison.
“The meat is delicately gamey, but not strong and sinewy, and this is partly because the animals are eating flowers, grass and moss,” he explains.
“Their wild existence also influences the fat structure of the meat.“
“The way they carry fat is different to farmed deer; they move more so have less fat and the fat is marbled through the muscle,” he adds.
The cut that claimed the Golden Fork this year is the loin - the second most expensive cut (after the French rack, which won a Golden Fork in 2015).
“We sold the loin for £50 per kilo last season. It is effectively the fillet - and is very easy to eat because it is a soft cut with very little fat on it.”
Being a lean cut, the loin cooks very quickly, so care has to be taken to avoid the type of overcooking that has led to perceptions of venison as tough and tasteless.
“Opinions of venison aren’t generally good because they are often based on experiences of meat that has been boiled or stewed for hours until it is tough and sinewy,” he adds. Under Lord Hamilton’s stewardship, Baronscourt Estate is changing attitudes by putting wild Sika venison on menus across Northern Ireland and beyond. James St & Co. and OX are two Belfast restaurants where diners might sample Sika venison loin. The seasonal nature of the product, however, makes it hard to guarantee. Every year, between August and March, the health of the herd is maintained through culling, and it is only during this period that the meat is available. Next season will see Baronscourt experimenting with smoked game, a move which should help to balance the seasonality of this beautiful byproduct.
www.barons-court.com
OURS ARE WILD DEER, NOT PARKLAND DEER... IF THEY WANT, THEY CAN LEAVE THE ESTATE AND WANDER INTO DONEGAL. HOW TO USE:
Sear in butter to seal, season and cook in the oven for 10 minutes. Serve with wild mushrooms and celeriac puree.
PANKO BREADED SINGLE WHOLETAIL
SCAMPI ★
AMITY FISH COMPANY
WHAT IS IT? Meaty wholetails of Scottish langoustine in a crispy, golden panko coating. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Deep or shallow fry for four minutes then rest for an additional four minutes. Serve with tartare sauce and a wedge of lemon. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2022): Panko Breaded Queenie Scallops ★
www.amityfish.co.uk
SARDINE FILLETS IN ORGANIC EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AND SEAWEED ★★
AZOURO
WHAT IS IT? Skinless, boneless sardine fillets in organic EVO oil with sea lettuce and bladderwrack. Prepared, canned and packaged by hand in northern Portugal. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Eat straight from the tin, as part of a tapas spread, on toast, in salads or mixed through pasta.
www.azouro.com
DRESSED CRAB ★★
CARDIGAN BAY FISH
WHAT IS IT? Cooked handpicked Cardigan Bay crab. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Keep it simple: serve on fresh bread with butter and lemon juice, mix through a salad or linguini pasta.
www.cardiganbayfish.co.uk
ADAMAS PINK LABEL CAVIAR ★★★
CAVIAR & COCKTAILS
WHAT IS IT? Premium Oscietra caviar, sustainably farmed in pure spring water. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Serve on blinis, toast or crackers, or use to garnish a fish dish. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2022): Adamas Black Label Caviar ★
www.caviarandcocktails.com
SIGNATURE CURE COLD SMOKED CHALK STREAM
TROUT ★★★
FINS & FORKS
WHAT IS IT? Cold smoked over alder in small batches, balancing flavours of fish, smoke and sweetness, with a firm, melt in the mouth texture. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Enjoy on blinis with sour cream and caviar, with eggs at brunch, or with some fresh bread, pickled cucumber and fish pâté. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2022): Cold Smoked Trout Pate ★★
www.finsandforks.co.uk
WILD IRISH SMOKED SALMON ★★★
KRD FISHERY SMOKEHOUSE
WHAT IS IT? Wild Irish salmon smoked over oak with a buttery, velvety texture. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Best served the traditional Irish way with sodabread , real butter and black pepper. Hold the lemon.
www.krdfisheries.com
PREMIUM SALT ANCHOVY FILLETS ★★
MERIDIAN SEA
WHAT IS IT? Anchovies cured in salt and steeped in olive oil. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Eat as tapas or use in recipes like classic Caesar salad, pasta, in salad dressings or mixed through scrambled eggs. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2022): Marinated Anchovy Fillets ★
www.meridian-sea.com
COLD SMOKED STEELHEAD TROUT ★★★
SUTHERLANDS OF PORTSOY
WHAT IS IT? Lightly cold smoked steelhead trout, for a clean, fresh, delicate finish. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Although different in flavour and texture, trout is as versatile as salmon, and can be used in as many settings, for breakfast, lunch or dinner. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2022): Peppered Smoked Mackerel ★
www.sutherlandsofportsoy.scot
HARRIS & LEWIS SMOKED SCOTTISH SALMON ★
THE SCOTTISH SALMON COMPANY
WHAT IS IT? Hand cured Scottish salmon with sea salt and demerara sugar, lightly smoked using Scotch whisky cask chippings. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Eat it as it is, alone or on a sharing platter. Remove from fridge and separate slices 10 minutes before serving. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2022): Lightly Smoked Fresh Scottish Salmon Fillet with Seaweed Butter ★
www.scottishsalmon.com
HOT ROAST SMOKED SALMON ★★
THE WEALD SMOKERY
WHAT IS IT? Scottish salmon cold smoked over oak chippings in traditional brick kilns, then hot smoked over an oak fire. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Can be served hot or cold, ideally with dill sauce. Flake into salads or mix into pâtés or fish cakes. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2022): Scottish Salmon ★ Smoked Trout Fillet ★ Sliced Smoked Venison ★ Free-Range Dry Cured Streaky Bacon ★
