Florence by Fiona Anderson

FLORENCE

A stranger offers

you

FREE food.

You have no idea

where it has come from or

why it is going cheap. Do you eat it?

Join in the live Twitter debate on how we can apply successes of the organic food movement to the ethical fashion industry. 7pm, 15th June. @flomaguk.

STARTERS 2. the MINUTES Meet our contributors

4. the CATCH-UP

See what has been going down online

5. Conversation Starters

the CONTENTS

The statement items with a story

8. The Style Saviour

Why The Acey is the UK’s go-to store

10. Wonder Woman

Carry Somers on Fashion Revolution Day

12. the AGENDA

What to see and do this summer

14. Head Over Heels

A summer of footwear

17. The Trials of an Ethical Fashionista Why not to give up on the high street

FASHION 18. UnGlam Rock Summer’s retro trend with real vintage

26. Style Files

What the stylish are wearing

28.Shopping Updates

Plunge into the galaxy or take the carb challenge

30. Mind Games

The best of the high street’s monochrome

40. African Imprint

Why Ankara is on the rise

44. Urban Florals

Summer’s staple print fit for the city

54. Illustrated Evening Wear

Artistic takes on this season’s formal gowns

60. A Fine Example

61. The Only Way is Up

Upcycled coffee and vinyls make statement jewellery

FEATURES 70. The Fashion Society Why fashion is in the UK’s election running

72. What is Feminist Lingerie?

What is empowering you in your knicker draw?

76. Florence On Tour

Preserving the ancient craft of Peruvian weaving

78. Wonder Woman

Jess Ekstrom on Headbands for Hope

The Acey, Africa Fashion Week Nigeria, United Nude, Awamaki.

Louise Hall on the upgrades to upcycling

A Note

When I started studying fashion journalism, I honestly thought I was the only person in the industry to care about compassion as much as clothing. I’d jumped from a nursing degree into a world of designer-clad anti-christs and diva-ish models according to the media. Thankfully it wasn’t long before I met the other side of the industry and a range of inspiring, yet unsung, creatives have been proving me wrong ever since! Florence is here to celebrate those people using fashion for good while addressing where the industry still needs to improve. It’s named after my time studying at the Florence Nightingale School of Nursing. From brands supporting remote artisans and their ancient crafts (p.5) to initiatives using jewellery making as therapy for mental illness (p.70), the magazine aims to change perceptions of what fashion can be and do. On a personal level we can already see this in how clothing makes us feel – empowered for one (p.72). With brands such as The Acey (p.8) to add to your wishlists and tips from our top ethical style bloggers (p.26), I like to think we haven’t sacrificed any of the style either. If anything ethical fashion can be more original and striking, take the traditional African print for example (p.40). During those long months between our bi-annual print issues, you can shop, discuss and read about all the latest in conscious fashion on the website. Anyway welcome to Florence and enjoy the ride. Fi x www.florencemagazine.co.uk @flomaguk

the MINUTES Paola Masperi

The founder of ethical brand Mayamiko explains the power of African prints on p.40. I’m inspired by resilience combined with grace. I’m motivated by our ability to change ourselves and the world around us. Fashion has the power to reach many, move many, benefit many (and the opposite also). I started working in fashion because of the impact it has on so many aspects of our life, be it as makers or consumers. Dear world, thank you and sorry for the times we take you for granted. When times are hard, I tell myself: dance it off, it could be worse!

Jack Duce

See the resident styling assistant’s work on p.18 and 61. I’m motivated by change and turbulence. Fashion has the power to change a person’s perception of themselves. I started working in fashion because, for an industry slated as exclusive and oppressive, it is one of the most open minded and capable of adapting to drastic change. Dear world, an interest in fashion and clothes doesn’t equate to vapid and shallow. Case in point: Florence! The greatest piece of advice I’ve been given is: never burn bridges. When times are hard, I tell myself: I will only regret things I didn’t bother trying, not those that I’ve tried and failed to accomplish.

Cathy Bear

Read the lingerie lover’s thoughts on underwear and feminism on p.73. I’m inspired by different cultures and different people. I’m motivated by my successes but also my failures. Fashion has the power to change people’s attitudes and challenge beliefs The greatest piece of advice I’ve ever been given is: you get what you want in life. If you want to succeed, you’ll work as hard as you can. I’m most proud of somehow becoming a doctor When times are hard, I tell myself: everything will be ok in the end. If it’s not ok, it’s not the end.

Nancy O’Connor

See her illustration of the Gucci summer collections on p.59. I’m inspired by people I see in the street who have an elegance and individuality - I want to capture that. I’m motivated by pushing forward and challenging the way I create artwork. Fashion has the power to challenge the norm. I started working in fashion because there is an energy to it. Dear world, ladies still don’t have equal pay - in the 21st century, I find this dumbfounding! When times are hard, I tell myself: at least I’m doing what inspires me and being true to myself!

Tae Alvon

The photographer behind our monochrome Mind Games shoot on p.30. I’m inspired by creation. Creation begets freedom. Fashion has the power to distract and attract, empower and discourage, dictate and liberate. I started working in fashion because it is the most interpersonal art there is. Dear world, pay closer attention to detail. The world is full of knowledge which affects our lives. It serves us no leverage living in naivety. The greatest piece of advice I’ve ever been given is: stay true to who you are and continue to grow, be a risk taker and don’t be afraid of change!

Rosalie McMillan

See the jewellery designer’s coffee creations for our upcycled editorial on p.68. I’m inspired by geometry and hidden beauty in nature. I’m motivated by being creative and achieving my full potential. Fashion has the power to amaze and delight. I started working in fashion because I want to bring pleasure to others. Dear world, I’m sorry we are harming you through human activity and climate change. The greatest piece of advice I’ve ever been given is: go for it, the only real regrets in life are for things that you do not do. I’m most proud of making a career change to become a designer. When times are hard, I tell myself: I can do anything. 3

the CATCH-UP

The most simple invention, you could kick yourself for not coming up with it! Kenton Lee from America has created expandable children’s shoes that can increase by five sizes. Shipped around the world, they’re protecting kids who would

otherwise be without shoes from soiltransmitted diseases. You heard it here first: Dr Carmen Hijosa has developed the material Piñatex™ from pineapple fibres as part of her PhD at the Royal College of Art. The production process is energy efficient and it’s a leather alternative – we can’t tell the difference. Her brand Ananas Anam has teamed up with Puma (below) to produce prototypes. From shoes that grow to material made from fruit, it’s all go for Florence online. Catch up on the full stories here as well as other news, shopping tips and features between print issues at www.florencemagazine.co.uk.

Yumi; Himalaya Television and Hilmi Hacaloğlu via Wikimedia Commons; The Shoe That Grows; Ananas Anam.

The earthquake that hit Nepal just days ago is the country’s worst natural disaster in over 80 years. Guilt-tripping readers for money isn’t usually our style but we’ll shamelessly do it for the 8 million people affected. Brands such as People Tree and Yumi are donating money from product sales or setting up their own appeals. If you’re looking for the perfect summer dress, why not try Yumi’s Asha maxi (left). Asha means hope in Nepalese and all £45 at sale with go to the Yumi Nepal Earthquake Appeal.

Conversation Starters

A Peace Treaty

Geometric inlays made from mesmerising gold tiger’s eye are framed with 24 carot gold plated brass. A Peace Treaty’s Sira necklace is handmade by a cooperative in Jaipur, India. Muslims, Hindus and Jain artisans work under the same roof here. £573. www.apeacetreaty.com.

Counting Flowers

Counting Flowersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; delicate silver silk scarf is handwoven and coloured with natural dyes. It is made by Pom and his wife Sokoan who live in Tanon, a rural village in the Takeo province of Cambodia. Their skill has been handed down through generations and, via the fairtrade organisation Trade Craft, brings in a far higher, more stable income than farming their rice fields. ÂŁ29.35. www.countingflowers.co.uk.

Ayten Gasson

Ayten Gasson has updated her signature kimono style with a beautiful Liberty print. The Orla bed jacket is 100% silk and made in Britain. Perfect for the bedroom or beyond. ÂŁ94. www.aytengasson.com.

The Style Saviour Slick, modern and effortlessly chic, online ethical boutique The Acey is what conscious fashion converts in the UK have been waiting for.

In the six months we have known Holly Allenby, her fashion and lifestyle brand has gone from a well-kept secret to an international success. It is hardly surprising considering The Acey’s winning style combination of clean minimalism and sophisticated femininity. The look is one we have come to love from the consciously hip hubs of LA and Copenhagen but Brits already preparing to check the shipping costs can relax. Holly is a Yorkshire lass born and bred and at just 24, she is bringing contemporary ethical fashion to the UK. “I was repeatedly asked where to find clothing with a conscience without 8

sacrificing style,” she explains. “I couldn’t find a solution so I created one.” Having worked for both the luxury label Temperley and the social enterprise footwear brand TOMS, Holly was perfectly placed to combine ethics and aesthetics. Widespread support from media and public alike is just another sign of a growing demand for ethical fashion without the style compromise. Despite launching last September, the boutique has already featured in The Telegraph’s top 10 ethical brands and customers are found in over 12 countries. “We’ve had a lot of feedback about our concept aligning with their values alongside their aesthetics,”

she says. The e-boutique features a carefully curated selection of fashionable yet timeless staple pieces. Expect the likes of Nanushka’s refined urban wear (work-tobar jumpsuits and silk wrap skirts perfect for long summer days) and Svilu’s elegantly simple shapes (we love this upcycled bow halter dress). Complimenting the capsule wardrobe is a range of understated footwear, handbags and jewellery such as Sydney Brown’s handcrafted shoes and Matt and Nat’s vegan bags. “I’d found some incredible brands that no one knew about so I really wanted to elevate them in the way they should be,”

The Acey

Lucy Bag, £90, Matt + Nat; Denim Jumpsuit, £79, and Apartment Coat, £90, both Brawl; Allora Top with Gold Applique, £119, Nanushka; Rose Gold Shark Tooth Necklace, £180, and Shark Fin Ring with Aquamarine, £56, both Tada and Toy.

says Holly. This includes championing young British talent like Brawl and Stella + Alf. What makes these companies truly remarkable though is a responsibility and awareness right back to the raw materials. While many brands – let alone customers – still struggle to trace the full production process of their clothing, The Acey has a personal relationship with each brand and requires transparency from source to store. It deals in multi-functional investment pieces rather than throwaway fast fashion, thoughtful purchases in terms of both style and ethics. Fair production methods

are reflected in the prices with clothing ranging from £49 to £499 but, as Holly points out: “You pay for what you get and sustainable style pays off, the quality is incomparable”. This slow, considered approach is promoted in the boutique’s lifestyle journal. Connecting like-minded women around the world, the blog features interviews with brands from the store and inspiring women doing extraordinary things. An ex hedge fund manager and Oxford graduate tackling food waste, a visual storyteller travelling the world. Having built The Acey from hard work, experience and principles alone, Holly is

the perfect figurehead for it. “An Acey woman thinks differently, a total original who always tries to do the right thing, a modern woman of intelligence and integrity,” she says. It’s no wonder the brand has become one of Florence’s favourites, the #aceywoman sounds like our kind of lady. www.the-acey.com

Wonder Woman

Heart Magazines; Fashion Revolution

The 24th April marked three years since the Rana Plaza factory collapse where 1133 workers in Bangladesh died and over 2500 were injured. Carry Somers, founder of the campaign set up in its honour, reports on Fashion Revolution Dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impact and the power of a hashtag.

No.1 Words edited by Fi Anderson

Who Made My Clothes? – It should be a simple question. But a new Behind the Barcode Fashion Report published to coincide with Fashion Revolution Day found 48% of brands hadn’t traced the factories where their garments were made and 91% didn’t know where the raw materials came from. So much is hidden within the industry, largely because of its scale and complexity. The supply chain is fractured and producers have become faceless. Fashion Revolution is reconnecting this fragmented chain, bringing the message about what needs to change straight from the cotton farmer, the weaver, the factory worker, directly to the consumer. We have incredible power as consumers, if we choose to use it. Brands and retailers may not be paying attention to what the people in their supply chain are saying but they will most certainly be paying attention to what their customers do. By taking a selfie showing your label, posting it on social media and tagging the brand with #whomademyclothes people around the world can show support for greater transparency throughout the fashion supply chain. I was told by an industry insider that for every person who took an inside-out selfie and contacted the brand last year, the brand took it as representing 10,000 other people who thought the same way but couldn’t be bothered to do anything about it. I am surrounded by an inspirational team of maverick creatives who have sparked a revolution and we believe that change really is possible. There are now 76 countries involved – the campaign really is global – and we have become a credible movement and influencer of policy on an international scale. Our online reach from articles and broadcast media this year was 16.5 billion. We are getting the message out to everyone. The wider our reach, the harder it will be for brands to hide from that all-important question. Our website has Get Involved packs which show the different ways in which producers, brands, retailers and consumers can participate in Fashion Revolution. Although Fashion Revolution Day 2015 has passed, we can still keep asking the question #whomademyclothes to keep up the pressure for greater transparency. 2016 packs will be online later this year. We have several exciting collaborations and activities already planned for next year and over the summer we’ll be shaping our vision and objectives for the next five. Although consumers didn’t cause this problem, it doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be part of the solution. www.fashionrevolution.org

the AGENDA The True Cost 29 May

Two year ago director Andrew Morgan set out to reveal who exactly is paying the price for our cheap shopping bargains. After speaking to everyone from US cotton workers and Bangladeshi factory owners to big name players like Stella McCartney and Tom Ford, he’s ready to take us on a journey to the heart of the fashion movement as it stands today. Watch the screening in a cinema near you or download on demand now.

Worldwide Knit in Public Day When WWKIPday began ten years ago, it was the best time to come out and proud as a secret knitting freak and find like-minded crafters. Now we won’t think twice about getting our balls of wool out over a chai latte or on the tube but it’s still a great opportunity to meet new people and learn a therapeutic skill. As the world’s biggest knitter run event, you’ll find meetings up and down the country on the website. Just the right time to get started on those Christmas jumpers.

Bid for a Bag 1 July

Now in its ninth year, the British Association for Adopting and Fostering is holding its annual designer bag auction and raffle. Alongside bidding for contributions from the likes of arm candy aficionado Anya Hindmarch, this year the Bag Ladies of the BAAF have teamed up with the London College of Fashion. Helping children in care = brilliant. Helping children while nabbing a one-off bag and winning a spa weekend? Even better.

The True Cost; Rept0n1x via Wikimedia Commons; BAAF

13 June

Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style 15 September

Almost a year since the legendary doyen of eveningwear passed away, close friend Andre Leon Talley marks his sixty-year reign with this beautiful book. It traces the stories and exquisite craftsmanship behind almost seventy dresses, made primarily for private clients. Known for dressing first ladies and stars alike as well as applying the highest standards of French couture, this book is set to be a celebration of artistry and elegance.

Fashion on the Ration Until 31 August

Rizzoli; IWM; Magnolia Pictures

Entering its final month, the Imperial War Museum’s exhibition shows how fashion not only survived but adapted and thrived during World War II. Whether jewellery made from old aeroplane parts or scarves carrying patriotic messages, clothing can play a practical and emotional role during times of hardship. Still relevant today, the show is a lesson in using limited resources effectively and imaginatively.

Iris

In cinemas 31 July “I don’t have any rules because I’d only be breaking them”. If Fabulous Fashionistas left you wanting more, catch this charming documentary film on quick-witted, front-row veteran Iris Apfel. It’s about time the 93-year-old fashion icon had a spotlight to herself. From presenting awards to shopping in thrift stores and squabbling with her husband of 67 years, legendary documentarian Albert Maysles captures a celebration of creativity, individuality and life.

Head Over Heels

Head Over Heels Wearable sculptures, stuff of myths and legends or just the icing to an outfit, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no wonder we go crazy for a pair of shoes. This summer London is satisfying our footwear fetish with a host of exhibitions.

Illustration by Guillem Turro Casanovas

Life On Foot

13 May – 1 November 2015 Spanish brand Camper is marking its 40-year anniversary with an insight into how a shoe collection is researched, created and presented. Taking visitors from its design studios in Mallorca to high-tech mass production facilities in the Far East and onto shop floors. A marketing ploy perhaps but there are also displays of the company’s unique approach to advertising as well as speculations on the future of walking. From smart materials to augmented reality, wearable technology to kinetic pavements, an array of fascinating design ideas suggest new directions and possibilities for ‘life on foot’. Design Museum. £13 standard ticket.

Rayne Shoes for Stars

22 May – 13 September 2015 Rayne, the British luxury brand, has been making shoes for icons and royalty since 1885. Coinciding with the brand’s relaunch, this retrospective of over 100 shoes marks a history of design including collaborations with Norman Hartnell, Bruce Oldfield, Mary Quant and Roger Vivier. It’s as much about the line of famous customers though from Vivien Leigh and Marlene Dietrich to Princess Diana and Queen Elizabeth II on her wedding day. Fashion and Textile Museum. £8.80 standard ticket.

Shoes: Pleasure and Pain Camper; Conde Nast; United Nude

13 June 2015 – 31 January 2016 From its role in fairytales and subsequent modern advertising to marking status and sexual empowerment, the transformative power of footwear is fully explored in over 250 examples. Footwear for men and women by 70 named designers including Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo and Prada are on display. But perhaps it is the more groundbreaking pieces – an ancient Egyptian sandal decorated with pure gold leaf, historic lotus shoes made for bound feet or a 3D printed shoe – that will leave you speechless. V&A. £12 standard ticket.

It’s easy to see how Ines Caleiro landed an internship at Jimmy Choo while still studying at the London College of Fashion. Contemporary designs for her brand Guava celebrate the architectural aspect of footwear and fuse geometric shapes with vibrant colours. Each pair is handmade by Portuguese artisans and promises quality as well as originality. Guava, £189, www. guavashoes.myshopify.com Offering a bespoke service, Cordwainers graduate Hetty Rose hand makes all her shoes in a London-based studio. Clients can choose from a range of vintage Japanese kimono fabrics or attend a one-day shoe-making workshop to really guarantee a unique pair. Hetty Rose, £550, www.hettyrose.co.uk.

the PICK

Beyond Skin is the go-to for vegan shoes. It won the Observer Ethical Fashion Award last year and proves its faux leather credentials with a range of knee-high boots and classic courts ideal for the office. Beyond Skin, £89, www.beyondskin.co.uk.

French brand Veja is a one-stop shop for sport and street footwear with character. Not only are the organic cotton canvases produced by a co-operative of Brazilian farmers, the final touches are made by Ateliers Sans Frontières, an association working to reintegrate people facing social exclusion back into the workforce. Veja, £87, www.veja-store.com/en. 16

Guava, Hetty Rose, Beyond Skin, Veja, TOMS.

There’s far more to TOMS than its classic canvas flats. The brand, which gives a pair of shoes to a child in need for every pair purchased, has branched out into strappy wedges in beautiful summer prints and neutral shades. Leather peeptoe booties add a touch of spice while the wedding collection is perfect for all those summer appointments. Now

The Trials of an

Ethical Fashionista A basic guide to mediating the high street

ake? Check. Decorations? Check. Flatteringly beautiful outfit to blow guests away and leave them in awe of my ability to excel in both events planning and personal style? Wait…what?! Somehow, in between ordering buffet platters and inviting said guests (a natural at this events planning thing), I’d forgotten to consider what I’d wear to The Boy’s surprise do. My New Year’s resolution has been to dress more consciously and I’ve been avoiding the high street altogether for the last four months. That ethical minefield wasn’t worth the risk. Until last weekend that is when I was requiring a last minute

We need to be working with companies that are following through on their promises dress to wow. I could have visited one of the ethical boutiques popping up in the city but I’ve been wondering if boycotting the high street altogether is sustainable in itself. “Annihilating them would leave a lot of innocent people along the chain penniless – an even worse state than being paid below the living wage,” The Boy defended himself last week. He has a point, although I had to explain I was frowning at the suit jacket/ shorts combo, not that they were fresh off the high street. Slowing down and championing fresh young brands is vital but big name stores are here to stay. We need to be working with companies that are following through on their promises, celebrating

good behaviour if we’re going to prove sustainability is worth the effort and take it mainstream. And so I found myself leaping headfirst into the minefield. But for the disorganised conscious-lovers among us (I know I’m not the only one!) or those without access to ethical shops, I’ve come up with a few tips so you don’t have to. No need to thank me. 1) Before heading out with a sustainability detector (they don’t exist), check the Ethical Trading Initiative’s website. The brand alliance includes over 70 companies, such as Whistles, Burberry and New Look that have signed up to a code promoting workers’ rights. Yes it’s just a base code but modelled on standards set by the International Labour Organisation. 2) If specific issues are important to you, the Ethical Consumer magazine has a great online guide ranking UK brands according to your own concerns, whether that be sustainability or animal rights. 3) Many big names feature or collaborate with ethical brands. Topshop’s boutique stocks Matt & Nat’s vegan bags and slogan purses by East London-based It’s Not Me It’s You. Accessorize also collaborates with ethical designers like Pippa Small and Urban Outfitters includes sustainable underwear brand Under Protection.

If there’s one thing I’ve learnt from this experience, it’s to be an informed consumer. That means knowing where your money is going, harnessing the power to choose which shops align with your values and taking time to appreciate what those brands (big or small) are doing behind the scenes. It also means taking back your boyfriend’s suit jacket/ shorts combo before he has a chance to wear it to his own surprise party.

Made’s upcycled jewellery hanging next to Topshop’s own? The idea of wrestling a mainstream shopper for ethical accessories brought a tear of joy to my eyes. Seems like progress to me.

The UK’s darling has had us buying British and shwopping all over the joint (donating clothing to Oxfam that is, not a dance move). Since 2007 it has been setting and achieving ethical goals via its Plan A strategy and this bag was perfect!

‘Why thank-you, it’s Zara. I’ve always been a fan of prints and €23 million worth of social investment,’ I found myself saying most of the night. Tip: if you are short on time, the website also tells you which local stores stock the garment in your size.

Joanie courts from Hobbs, an ETI member and continuing supporter of (some) British manufacture. Prada-esque and handcrafted in the brand’s Italian atelier!

Illustration by Emily Rose Weston 17

Glam Rock Combining vintage and second hand for a truly retro take on this season’s grungy glam rock style.

Photographed by Annalaura Pretaroli Styled by Fi Anderson, assisted by Jack Duce Hair and Make Up by Juliet Durham Modelled by Greta and Grace from Leni’s Model Management and Lucy from First Model Management.

Vintage floral dress as seen on the front cover, Peekaboo Vintage, £40; fake fur jacket and shoes, second hand.

Handmade sheer top, Baylis and Knight on Etsy, ÂŁ33; handmade skirt from Osei Duro at Gather and See, ÂŁ45; bag and earrings, second hand.

Vintage jacket and skirt set, WeLoveVintage at ASOS Marketplace, £46; shirt, second hand.

Vintage suede mini skirt, WeLoveVintage at ASOS Marketplace, £34; skinny scarf, River Island, £12; shirt, second hand.

Skinny scarf, River Island, ÂŁ12; all other items, second hand.

Gold metallic ski pants, WeLoveVintage, ÂŁ28; 24 carot gold handmade necklace, A Peace Treaty at Gather and See, ÂŁ135; bra and fake fur sleeveless jacket, second hand.

Style Files What, where and how to buy consciously from the most stylish in the business.

The Minimalist with an Edge Greta Eagan @ Fashion Me Green I love when you feel confident in what you want and creative enough to make it come together with what you have. I had a vision in my mind of what I wanted for this look but I didn’t have the proper skirt. I did, however, have an old prom dress hanging in my closet and I thought it might be just the thing! It turned out beautifully. I’ve just got turned on to Elaine Kim (designed and made in LA) and feel like her aesthetic helps me dress as the woman I want to be. I also love Svilu and The Sway.

I chose this particular outfit because I wanted to make myself feel better. I’d been sick for over a week but thought I would put some effort in and dress up a little. This certified organic cotton top is from Synergy Organic Clothing who ethically produce their garments in Nepal and have been in the ethical fashion space for more than 20 years. The printed skirt is from Nearfar, a UK-based brand that ethically produces its garments in Sierra Leone. The bag, shoes and bangle are all vintage and purchased at local stores. KITX is my new favourite Australian ethical fashion label by Kit Willow Podgornik. The entire current collection is on my wishlist.

Lindsay Linton; Eco Warrior Princess.

The Print Lover Jennifer Nini @ Eco Warrior Princess

The Androgynous Minimalist Ada Kallgren @ ETHICALSTYLEBLOG I just love this jacket. I got it from my friend’s mum who used to wear it in the 80s and said that she thought of me every time she saw it in the wardrobe so I should have it. I like simple basics and Baserange are good for that. Nudie Jeans do great jeans and men’s shirts. And Margiela Artisanal, always. Know what you like, what you want and what you will wear and see your clothes as an extension of yourself. That way you will probably buy less and better and keep the pieces for longer.

ETHICALSTYLEBLOG; Bien Faire.

The Vintage Bohemian Cara Pryor @ Bien Faire I started my blog as a resource for women like me, who were looking for clothing that represented their style and their values but weren’t sure where to find it. My three favourite brands right now are Reformation, Urban Renewal and Nisolo. This dress and hat are vintage. The bag is from Baggu and is made in the USA from vegetable dyed leather. The necklace is from The Giving Keys, which repurposes old keys into necklaces and employs people in L.A. that are transitioning out of homelessness.

Read the full interviews on Florence’s website, www.florencemagazine.co.uk.

Swimming the Galaxy

Shadowplay New York

“I’ve always been a bit of an astronomy geek,” says Ximena Chouza from Shadowplay New York. Along with fellow Parson’s graduate Ali Bennaim, she’s applied this love to fashion and produced some amazing print wear. Most of the items are made in New York and they work closely with their factory in El Salvador. Conscious of waste-saving techniques, the brand considers the planet in ethics as much as design. Its swimwear selection is the way to stand out on the beach this summer.

Above: Ximena and Ali. Swimsuits, both £63; bikini top and bottoms, £31 each.

The Carb Challenge

Reformation

An all you can eat buffet of pasta and chips it is not. On Earth Day this year (22nd April), slick sustainable brand Reformation launched its Refscale initiative so customers can now find out the water and CO2 cost in every garment’s production. As well as launching a new collection (think sophisticated co-ords and relaxed summer dresses), Reformation called upon its epic Instagram fan base to raise awareness for the bad carbs. For the #carbchallenge, customers were asked to take pictures of themselves with their favourite food carbs. “We wanted a creative way to use our voice and our network to spread the word of fashion’s impact on the environment and help fight climate change,” says founder Yaol Aflalo. We’re imagining a lot of well-dressed pizza lovers. Obviously carbon-dioxide and water are only a couple of the environmental expenditures and in the coming months Reformation will be adding waste, toxicity, and fair labour to the Refscale. It’s already doing pretty well, producing most of the pieces onsite in a wind powered factory in Los Angeles and offsetting emissions by investing in reforestation. The Low Carb Collection also uses very little CO2.. Garments are made from deadstock fabrics locally sourced and Tencel, which has a fraction of cotton’s environmental impact. The Gwen Two Piece (bottom right) saves around 24 pounds of CO2 and 2,715 gallons of water alone compared with its cotton counterpart. You can see all the details by clicking the Earth icon on every product page. “It shows people the total cost of fashion and empowers them to make their own choice,” says Yaol.

Mind Games Picking and choosing the best of monochrome from the best of the high street.

Photographed by Tae Alvon Styled by Fi Anderson Hair and Make Up by Tuesday Rose-Mullings Modelled by Yazmin Everley

Top, ÂŁ19.99 and skirt, ÂŁ14.99, both H&M.

This page and opposite: bow back halter dress, Svilu at The Acey, ÂŁ299; belt, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own.

Striped sheer top, & Other Stories, £45; monochrome striped palazzo trousers, H&M, £24.99; triangle leather clutch, COS, £55.

This page and opposite: bralet, Oh My Love at Topshop, ÂŁ20; monochrome trousers, Zara, ÂŁ19.99.

Monochrome striped top, COS, £39. Opposite: zebra print top, & Other Stories, £35; bikini bottoms, H&M, £7.99; shoes, COS, £115; coat and socks, stylist’s own.

Mayamiko

Mayamikoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s limited edition Time for Tee tops use ethically sourced fabrics and are handmade in Malawi. This top is ÂŁ26.

African Imprint

AFWL; Africa Fashion Week Nigeeria

The traditional Ankara print has gone global and is making more than just a statement about style.

When Rihanna visited the White House last year, her outfit caused as much of a media meltdown as her impersonations of Kerry Washington in hit political thriller Scandal. The brightly coloured shirtdress complete with bold, tribal prints was far from typical First Lady chic. Yet the fashion world was bowled over – ‘worthy of the president’s seal of approval,’ said Elle UK – and anyone who did not know about Haitian Italian designer Stella Jean (very few) or Ankara (read on) quickly caught up. It certainly helps to have an awardwinning fashion icon endorsing your outfits but the African Ankara print has long been gaining global success in its own right. Over the past few seasons it has regularly appeared as key motifs on Western catwalks from Diane von

Furstenberg and Paul Smith to Marc Jacobs and Givenchy. Newcomer Stella Jean’s refreshing pieces combining the tailoring and print of her mixed heritage has been the talk of Milan Fashion Week since debuting in 2012. In turn celebrities such as Beyoncé, her sister Solange and Zoe Saldana as well as those beyond the African diaspora Blake Lively, Kate Bosworth and Gwen Stefani have favoured the print. Even Michelle Obama, a fan of Ankara before entering the White House, is now redefining that First Lady dress code in its vibrant patterns. But the print’s popularity is merely a symptom of Africa’s wider growing influence on the international fashion stage. ‘African fashion designers who were unacceptable in the West are currently

being sought out, watched and genuinely appreciated globally,’ says Ronke Ademiluyi, founder of Africa Fashion Week London (AFWL). ‘The demand for African inspired fashion is growing daily as talented designers find new ways of styling the Ankara wax.’ Celebrating its fifth anniversary this August, AFWL was created to showcase undiscovered African design talent from across the world. So far over 300 designers have been presented to almost 45,000 visitors. It may be Europe’s largest catwalk event of African and African-inspired design but it is far from the only one. Capitals Milan, Paris, New York, Berlin and even Tokyo hold annual shows. There is even an All Things Ankara Fashion Week in America. Particular designers with an eye for 41

with African and international retailers. Using fashion to change the face of Africa from poverty stricken to culturally rich world contender is an aim of most figures advocating African design, including those at the Fashion Africa Conference this April. The symposium, also celebrating its fifth anniversary, raises awareness and elevates perceptions around African design. Topics like ethical trade, Africa as new luxury and its role in the global market were clearly worth discussing with guests attending from Sweden, Ethiopia, Copenhagen and even Canada. Of course Ankara’s popularity ultimately lies in the fabric itself. ‘Its diversity of use makes African prints appealing, patterns in almost any form and hue you can think about,’ says Ronke. This has led to designers around the world creating a more globally appealing, hybrid style incorporating both African and Western elements. A look Ronke refers to as ‘contemporary African fashion’. Africans and internationals alike are also fascinated by the deeper, cultural significance of the fabric. ‘Our customers love the story of each garment, as it adds to the richness of what they are wearing,’ says Paola Masperi, founder of ethical brand Mayamiko. ‘African print is part of the heritage, the tradition and the identity of an incredibly big, varied and rich continent.’ The online boutique works with artisans in Malawi to create garments and accessories in that contemporary African style. This June it will launch its Time for Tee collection honouring the versatility and character of African prints on a classic wardrobe staple, the T-shirt. ‘We realised our supporters and audience visually love the prints and colours but needed a more gentle approach to get familiar with wearing them,’ explains Paola. Including bright florals, graphic shapes in electriccolours and even more conservative styles in monochrome or navy, the seasonless line epitomises office to bar adaptability. Along with other UK brands such as Choolips, Agnes and Lola, Chichia London and ASOS Africa, Mayamiko is promoting African print beyond

the continent while sustaining long established crafts and livelihoods. Africa’s fashion industry may be developing but globalisation is impacting customary skills and dress around the world. Even Ankara’s industrialised, and often foreign, manufacture has surpassed hand-printing techniques such as Kanga and Adire. Yet its global popularity could also lead the way for them. ‘We are trying to do our bit to keep the artisanal traditions alive and tell the world about them in our contemporary interpretation,’ explains Paola. ‘For us it is a privilege and a joy to be able to witness, be inspired and work with such talented artisans!’ No doubt that is something Stella Jean would agree with. The designer has been working with the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI), a flagship programme of the International Trade Centre, since 2013. The initiative pairs artisans from Africa and Haiti with fashion brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Sass and Bide to help lift communities out of poverty. It is not a charity but a collaboration with creative results. What Stella Jean sends down the runway each season and is worn by the likes of Vogue Japan’s editorat-large Anna Dello Russo and Rihanna is testament to this. For now seeing their traditions and heritage celebrated on a global scale through Ankara is a proud moment for Africans around the world. What it represents and promises is far more than a splash of exoticism to your look. ‘Print is special to African fashion because it symbolises our culture, it is the fabric we were born with, the wrapper our mothers tied us on their backs with and now we can use it to dress up in fun glamorous ways!’ notes Ronke. ‘African print’s demand has nowhere to go but up’. Optimism shared by many, including Paola: ‘Africa is rising, has risen. I am convinced the best is yet to come and is certainly bubbling up all around!’

print include South African David Tlale who has been showing his beautiful and highly wearable collections at New York Fashion Week for the past six seasons. Nigerian Deola Sagoe is known for her visionary haute couture pieces. While fellow countryman Duro Olowu’s mix of vintage prints with sharp cuts has found a loyal fan in Michelle Obama. With print playing such an integral role in African fashion though, new talent is constantly emerging. At this year’s AFWL Ronke suggests watching out for Theresa Onwuka’s Needle Point, Taiwan based Aimeeku and designer protégé Tumisola Ladega who is already an international success at just sixteen years old. Financial growth in the continent has also given the African fashion industry a much-needed boost. Weekly newspaper, The Economist predicted six of the ten fastest growing economies in 2015 will be in Africa. That is a consumer market potential which has not passed unnoticed 42

Visit www.africafashionweeklondon.com for tickets to Africa Fashion Week London on 8th and 9th August.

AFWL; Africa Fashion Week Nigeeria

“African print is part of the heritage, the tradition and the identity of an incredibly big, varied and rich continent.”

Mayamiko

Top ÂŁ26.50

Paola Masperi and the women of Mayamiko in Malawi. The brand also works with traditional African prints such as chitenje and kente. You can find the finished product in the image above in the following shoot. Shop the full collection at www.mayamiko.org.

Urban Florals Summer’s statement print via the UK and Africa.

Photographed by Francesca Granger Styled by Fi Anderson Hair and Make Up by Liliana Oprenescu Modelled by Morgan at Leni’s Model Management

Shirt dress, Hobbs, £139; sunglasses, photographer’s own.

Top, £35, and pencil skirt, £35, both Agnes and Lola; shoes stylist’s own.

This page: shell top, £21; skirt, £30. Opposite: bralet, £19; shorts, £30, all Mayamiko; shoes all stylist’s own.

This page and opposite: flared skirt, Closet London, £28; jacket and shoes, stylist’s own; bra, model’s own.

Ballet dress, Sika X ASOS, ÂŁ120.

Illustrated Evening Wear Like what you see? Prints of the artwork featured here are available to buy online with all proceeds going to the brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; charitable organisations.

Ralph Lauren by Olesja Hannikainen The Polo Ralph Lauren Foundationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pink Pony Fund is dedicated to supporting cancer care and prevention.

By Carolynn Dewi-Widmer The Burberry Foundation is dedicated to supporting young people, helping them to realise their full potential and thrive.

Beulah by Scarlett Cunningham The Beulah Trust supports women who have been victims of sex trafficking. Giving them the chance to find work, generate an income, and live a selfsufficient life, free from abuse.

Eden Diodati by Scarlett Cunningham The brand donates ten percent of shareholder dividends to registered charity MĂŠdecins sans FrontiĂ¨res to deliver humanitarian aid, medical relief and clean water on a global scale.

Gucci by Louise Braybrook

Gucci by Nancy Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor As well as a ten-year global partnership with UNICEF, Gucci founded Chime for Change, a campaign to unite and strengthen the voices speaking out for girls and women around the world.

org and fairmined.org cleaning up how precious metals are mined and companies like brilliantearth.com trying to clean up the diamond industry.

A Fine Example

You’ve been working in the jewellery industry for 13 years. What kind of experience did you gain before setting up Lumoi? I started my career as a buyer’s assistant on the jewellery desk for a TV shopping channel. This fuelled my passion for jewellery and allowed me to work with a wide range of designs from the UK and abroad, visiting many of the UK based jewellery shows and the Vincenza Jewellery show in Italy. I then went on to London’s jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden, where I worked for a major diamond and gold importers. Sounds pretty exciting, how did Lumoi come about then? During this time I took on a little too much and found myself in a state of frequent anxiety. Rather than take the pharmaceuticals that were offered to me, I quit my job, chose to heal my body and mind naturally and started making jewellery as a therapeutic hobby. After a couple of years, my hobby became a full time passion. Your recycled silver has been hallmarked, has the design standard and 60

quality of recycled jewellery improved? Absolutely! The days of hemp and tweed “hippy” jewellery being the only sustainable/ethical option are long gone (there’s nothing wrong with hemp jewellery, its just nice to have other options!) I’m constantly in awe of the materials people are using in jewellery these days and the wonderful designs being produced. So have you seen a big change in attitude towards ethics during your career? I don’t think I’ve witnessed much of a change in the ethics and practices of wellestablished high-end jewellers, which is a shame as they have the potential to create a big impact. However I have witnessed a new wave of jewellers emerging who are working hard to right the wrongs of the industry from the bottom up. Vive la Revolution - I do believe it’s happening!

Jewellery can have such sentimental value, can you tell me about any memorable redesign requests? Our redesign service has brought us some great projects to work on. The one that sticks out the most wasn’t a redesign as such but more of a preservation. Over her years of travelling a customer had found two dried seahorses. They were incredibly fragile and deteriorating fast and she was looking for a way to preserve them. I suggested covering them in fine silver. It was extremely delicate work and I had to work slowly to avoid losing the detail and texture on the seahorses’ bodies. The customer then asked for them to be worked into earrings. They really were quite a statement! You say the brand’s mission is to ‘enhance people’s lives’, how does upcycling jewellery achieve this? By working in a way that protects our environment for future generations. Reducing waste and energy consumption benefits everyone, everywhere and being able to buy beautiful sustainably produced jewellery is much kinder than purchasing mass produced ‘fast fashion’ jewellery. Considering your experience, what can upcycled jewellery offer that mainstream cannot? Simple: true originality and peace of mind. www.lumoi.com

Agreed, what about at the beginning of the chain though in mining and sourcing? There’s a long way to go but we’re moving in the right direction. We now have organisations like responsiblemines.

Lumoi

Established in 2008, upcycled jewellery brand Lumoi creates beautiful handmade pieces from recycled silver, gemstones and the many items donated by customers. It also offers repair and redesign services for those precious pieces you do not want to give up. The aim: to reignite a love for handmade arts and move away from fast fashion. With a background in fine jewellery that’s taken her from television to the centre of the UK diamond trade, we caught up with founder Louise Hall to find out why she fell in love with sustainability.

So which other jewellery brands inspire you? I’m excited by independent designers like Pippa Small who incorporate ethical projects and jewellery design around the world. Of course I have to mention other wonderful reworkers, upcycling and recycling a whole manner of materials like Katie’s Bike.

The Only Way is Up Photographed by Kate Butcher Styled by Fi Anderson and assisted by Jack Duce Hair and Make Up by Jess Driver Modelled by Jasmine Tooley

Palm necklace made from reclaimed rubber, Ware London, ÂŁ78.

Contra Mohican Earring made from reclaimed rubber, Ware London, ÂŁ48.

This page and opposite: necklace made from magazines, Quazi Design at Styled by Africa, ÂŁ30.

Recycled silver rings from Lumoi and Rosalie McMillan; ring on the third finger made from recycled coffee grounds, Rosalie McMillan.

Matching necklace and earrings made from vinyls, Dana Jewellery at Etsy, ÂŁ40.99.

This page and opposite: a selection of jewellery made from end of line materials, Michelle Lowe-Holder.

The Fashion Society From mental health to unemployment, Britain’s general election has put its social issues in the spotlight. While political pledges may be leaving the public unconvinced, fashion initiatives are providing solutions worthy of the vote.

lorence Norman counts herself one of the lucky ones. During five months of inpatient hospital treatment for an eating disorder and addiction, she discovered therapy through jewellery making: “I found something I felt good at and slowly my self-esteem started to grow,” she says. “Amazingly I stayed sober with a healthy weight.” It helped Florence through a painful lack of transitional aftercare in London but she watched helplessly as friends relapsed. “There’s no stepping-stone between the cocoon of inpatient care and society,” she explains. So Florence began inviting them to make jewellery with her and the idea for a social enterprise came together as the group expanded. Fast-forward almost three years and Sweet Cavanagh is now an award-winning charity based in Notting Hill providing that all-important but absent stepping-stone and some beautiful products to show for it. When a member is well enough to return to work, she ‘graduates’ from the programme. Underfunding across the mental health sector is one in a number of national problems the UK’s political parties are promising to tackle as May’s election approaches. Yet for Londoners like Florence reform cannot come soon enough and they are harnessing the power of fashion to make it happen. Sweet Cavanagh is part of an increasing range of creative fashion initiatives now combating Britain’s social issues. Blamed for racism, eating disorders and mistreating workers, it seems impossible 70

to believe fashion could reduce crime and youth unemployment. Yet while voters remain wary of political rhetoric and generalised promises, these socially responsible schemes are showing fashion can offer a wide range of benefits enabling change at grassroots level. “Craft therapy is amazingly effective for people who suffer with eating disorders,” Florence agrees. In the last year alone Sweet Cavanagh has helped 25 women struggling with eating disorders or addictions to transition from inpatient care or gain treatment in the first place due to strains on the NHS. Maintaining a level of income is vital for those unable to cope with the demands of full-time work but the initiative’s healing

socially responsible schemes are showing fashion can offer a wide range of benefits benefits are worth far more to its members. Not only is the sociable, practical act of jewellery making a distraction from obsessive and uncomfortable thoughts but long-term self-development can reduce the chances of relapsing. “Many of our members have chronically low self-esteem and building it up is key to recovery,” Florence explains. “I remember the first time we sold a piece for our first member. She honestly believed no one would ever buy her jewellery and to see her core belief literally torn up was brilliant.” Naturally the London College of

Fashion’s social responsibility department has long advocated fashion’s wider value. Using the term Better Lives, it has worked with schools and hospices and last year ran a leather bag-making workshop with at-risk young people affected by London’s high levels of knife crime. The college collaborated with Art Against Knives, another creative initiative set up after the unprovoked stabbing of art student Oliver Hemsley. The attack in Shoreditch in 2008 left Oliver in a wheelchair. With over two-thirds of gang members aged between just 17 and 23, youth crime is high on the law and order agenda in the elections. The Metropolitan Police estimates gangs currently commit 22% of serious violent offences and 50% of shootings in the capital. LCF’s collaboration uses fashion production as part of a prevention method, the approach championed by Labour and Conservatives alike in the treatment of youth crime. With access to professional equipment and expertise, the project highlighted participants’ potential and an alternative, more constructive future through developing skills and confidence. But it also began a dialogue with a section of society often overlooked. “The project was designed to help hard to reach young people explore and communicate the positive and negative aspects of their environment and circumstances,” director of the social responsibility department Claire Swift says. “To be able to celebrate human diversity, to listen and learn from the experience of others is humbling and grounding.”

It’s a similar story with the prison projects the college has been running since 2009. Fashion students work directly with female inmates on a variety of different activities to build skills, trust and self-esteem. Julia Robson, fashion journalist and leader of The Beauty Inside project at HMP Send, admits she initially received some negative reactions when telling people she was to be editor of a fashion magazine produced in a prison. “Naturally prisoners come a long way down the list in terms of priorities,” she says. But the project has received widespread public support on the whole, including from the Ministry of Justice, and understandably so. Re-offending is not only dangerous but costly to the UK. Providing rehabilitation specifically for women in a system that mainly caters to the 95% male prison population, not only benefits them but the wider community. As the primary carers of children, the project also hopes to reduce rates of crime in future generations. The magazine won last year’s Big Society Award, a scheme set up by the Prime Minister to celebrate individuals, groups and organisations aiding their communities. Perhaps a bigger achievement though is the four participating prisoners who have already applied to higher or further education on release. Preserving Britain’s own historic but threatened textile and garmentmanufacturing industry is an added

benefit of many fashion-based initiatives. Fashion Enter, a manufacturing and training organisation in North London, has been bridging the skills gap while tackling London’s youth unemployment. It began a six-week stitching course after a 2013 study showed 15% of 16-24 year olds in Haringey were unemployed or out of full-time education and training. Since starting a year and a half ago, The Stitching Academy has had over 90 learners. Many choose to go onto higher education while some pass straight onto

“It isn’t going to cure cancer but there’s a lot of intelligence within fashion.” level three apprenticeships working with the likes of ASOS, Marks and Spencer and John Lewis in Fashion Enter’s factory. Following on from this success, Fashion Enter opened a Fashion Technical Academy in January with the aim of training nearly 3000 people over the next five years. “More retailers will be doing this type of training in the future,” Wendy Coley, Head of Learning at The Stitch Academy, believes. “It makes sense to invest in learners who may one day become an employee.” While politicians are offering employment and sustainability measures, as well as reviving British industry, apprenticeships in garment manufacture are a perfect way to combine all three. Paid training is also a welcome solution to the fashion industry’s unpaid

internship culture currently increasing its reputation for exclusivity. “The factory employs diverse skilled and semiskilled professionals, including people with disabilities,” Wendy explains. “The learners see a side of fashion here they may not have seen through the media.” Media portrayals of a glamorous but cruel industry completely out of touch with reality can make the idea of fashion aiding social welfare seem absurd. “The prison project is perhaps the only thing I’ve done that my father has been impressed with because I feel he thinks fashion is lightweight,” Julia says. But she knows there is far more to the industry than shoes and bags. “It isn’t going to cure cancer but there’s a lot of intelligence within fashion. Fashion people tend to be very perceptive.” When at the heart of the industry is a workforce of ordinary people, enjoyable crafts and the capacity to provide skills, employment prospects and empowerment it seems absurd not to consider fashion can play a role in wider society. Britain has yet to decide who will lead the country but fashion is already proving an unlikely hero. As Send’s prisoners, Fashion Enter’s apprentices and of course Florence’s graduates will all tell you.

Neon Moon

What is Feminist Lingerie?

Hayat Rachi has strong opinions about female power and the lingerie industry. Her ‘feminist lingerie’ brand Neon Moon also has a very distinctive look. Given feminism’s subjectivity in the 21st century, we asked a range of women about their most empowering underwear.

Hayat Neon Moon is a feminist lingerie brand because I choose not to sexualise, objectify or showcase our British made lingerie for the male gaze. I couldn’t affiliate with any lingerie brand and didn’t want to be body shamed into looking the one very narrow standard of beauty! The lingerie industry is notoriously known for body shaming women and Neon Moon is the opposite. We’re body positive, proudly showcase people of colour and also LGBTQIA+ inclusive – we are a truly intersectional feminist lingerie brand and unapologetically bringing equality to the table. I designed its first collection with women in mind – comfortable, supportive soft-cup bamboo bras and knickers and yet the women create the shape of the garment and not the other way around. I personally love our non! bra and matching coucou! brief as I’m a sucker for a great quality triangle bra. I’ve seen all of our bras on so many women and they always looks so different on each person – it’s great to see body positive, feminist lingerie on all!

Neon Moon; Cathy Bear.

Cathy When it comes to shopping, shoes and underwear are my kryptonite. Both can be comfortable and practical but practicality is almost never a driving force for my purchases. I like statement pieces, towering heels and beautiful lingerie, even if I’m the only one getting to see it! I love putting on a set that I think is sexy, so when I look in the mirror I appreciate myself in a more positive light, in the same way putting on a well fitting pair of jeans can skim my hips and make me feel confident. Obviously it makes for a better show when stripping off if you’re wearing something special, but it’s not really about that for me. Can we not accept that a woman may just buy a sexy bra without thinking ‘this’ll bring all the boys to the yard’?

Charli

Plus size blogger at Curvy Girl Thin As with empowerment, feminism today is largely about freedom of expression – a big middle finger to the centuries of being told what to wear. I’m a big fan of structured pieces and this corselette sculpts and shapes the body without the Bridget Jones dilemma of huge pants. Although I’d like to add I’m a huge fan of big, big pants – I just like mine to be made from silk and lace! I love the vintage lace details of this piece, it makes me feel like a 1940s screen siren and I’m a big believer that I feel most empowered when I feel sexy. I’ve always lusted after incredibly sensual lingerie but was scared to really embrace it. I developed large boobs very young and it wasn’t until I was halfway through university that I moved away from sports bras and into things that I really wanted to show off to the world. I feel many plus size women will say that they find it difficult to feel empowered when we are excluded from so many shops, called names in the street and trolled on Instagram and Twitter when we do put ourselves out there. Now my ultimate feeling of empowerment is simply having the confidence to be me, whether that is wearing the most scandalous underwear I can find or jogging bottoms and a ballet wrap.

Anna

Curvy Girl Thin; Anna

I had never been particularly confident with my sexuality when I was younger. I had issues with self-image and knew my interests were a bit ‘out there’ compared to my friends. As I got older, I bought more underwear that made me feel sexy and my confidence grew. I began to explore the S&M scene that I had always been interested in. Here we have two items from my bottom drawer. On top (of course) we have underwear for dominating - they’re all about power and strength, but still super feminine. Underneath is my favourite underwear for being submissive - cute, a little bit vulnerable and perfect for being spanked! Being submissive is equally empowering. It allows you to let go of the tight control we cling to in daily life, whilst still being in the confines of a trusting relationship

Lori

Feminism and fashion blogger at Rarely Wears Lipstick To me, lingerie can’t be feminist but you can be a feminist while wearing it – no matter what style you choose. A feminist in a waist cinching, steel boned corset is just as much of a feminist as when she is when wearing a sports bra. Feminism is about believing no one should be treated differently because of their gender and, where possible, doing/saying what you can to help affect change. If you feel more kickass in shapewear than you do without, then go for it. The most important thing to me about this set is it’s comfortable and feels good to wear. No one needs small annoyances distracting them from larger goals, although comfort is all relative! It’s a bonus that the fabric is a pretty lace and the set matches. Feeling ‘put together’ gets my day off to a good start and makes me feel like I can achieve anything.

Rarely Wears Lipstick; Charles Goodman III Photography.

Eva Mae Garnet Burlesque is a very empowering dance. For a few brief moments you’re on stage with just the lights and the crowd looking at you and you get to present your vision of sexy. You entice the audience into your world, all the while owning every single part of your body. You get to look everyone in the eye and say: ‘this is beautiful. This is my body and no matter what size, colour, or look I have, you’re entranced by what I’m doing right now on this stage.’ Burlesque costumes are an aspect of this. They help us accentuate what we want the audience to perceive and that is very empowering. I love this costume because it’s my first custom piece, which I worked hand in hand on with my good friend and designer NinkoTea Designs. I love how it feels, how it moves and how it is removed. I love how elegant I feel in the whole ensemble and how glamorous I look when I walk on stage. Personally feminist lingerie doesn’t mean anything to me. Lingerie was created to make women feel sexy. It was created to bring out the inner vixen in every woman. No matter who you are, your style, how done up you like to be, there should be a style out there to make you feel sexy and embrace your body. After all, we only get one body, so we may as well love it to death!

FLORENCE On Tour The beauty, culture and history of Peru begins with its ancient weaving craft.

‘You like ethical fashion and want to see the world. Can’t you volunteer in foreign charity shops?’ It was not exactly what I was going for but my friend did have a point. For months I have wanted to escape the urbanity of London life and experience another culture, another world. It’s not Michael Palin or Lonely Planet inspiring my daydreams though but the global ethical fashion brands and initiatives I find. Brands such as Popinjay’s bag embroiderers in Pakistan and Article 22’s Laotian silversmiths, who make jewellery from bombs, celebrate and support amazing crafts and people. At the top of my bucket list is seeing South America and the remote Peruvian weavers whose tradition extends back thousands of years. Thankfully I did not need to google Peruvian branches of 76

Oxfam as I recently discovered Awamaki. Since 2009, the social enterprise has been helping rural cooperatives of female hand weavers around the Andean town of Ollantaytambo gain access to the global market. It also offers personalised volunteer placements enabling supporters to experience this incredible culture while developing their own skills. Finally spurred on by my friend’s attempt at advice, I got in touch with Awamaki and was lucky enough to receive a message back from half the team. ‘Weaving is a means of expression for individuals as well as a reflection of the landscape in which any given artist lives,’ Tebben Lopez, Awamaki’s marketing and communications coordinator explains. ‘The women are amazingly talented people. Each one has been spinning and weaving for years and knows patterns, signs and designs by heart.’

With fibrework found dating back to 8000 BC, Andean weaving is one of the oldest textile traditions in the world and an ancestral form of visual communication. The Quechua language, native to the Andes, was originally oral so the form, colour and motif of the textiles recorded historic events and, even today, convey aspects of personal identity. Located in the Sacred Valley between the Incan capital Cusco and the ancient ruins of Macchu Picchu, tourism is Ollantaytambo’s main source of income. Half a million visitors pass through it on their way to Machu Picchu every year. Yet indigenous women are left out of the modern economy and their villages surrounding the town live in poverty. ‘Women wove to cover the clothing necessities of their families,’ coordinator of the weaving cooperatives Mercedes Durand says. ‘But now with globalisation

and societal inclusion, it is necessary they are immersed in the changes imposed by modern society.’ I’ve also smelt the slight whiff of righteous, Imperialism that can come with volunteering abroad or ‘voluntourism’. Yet given the right approach, it can be an investment in futures rather than a mere handout. Following a sustainable business model, Awamaki appears to be a good example. ‘We provide the weavers with workshops to increase their independence and launch their own business,’ Giulia Debernardini, Monitoring & Evaluations Coordinator explains. Training in English, computer, business and leadership skills as well as quality control and product development enables them to earn their own income and help their families. ‘During a women’s empowerment workshop, the cooperative of Huilloc told us they can now buy things for their children in school. Before they had to wait for their allowance from their husbands,’ says Giulia. It’s humbling to hear and you can rest assured a modern, Western input is only helping to preserve the traditional craft and culture. The cooperatives were initially set up for fear the weaving tradition was dying out but business via tourism and the online shop is reviving it. ‘A major aspect of Awamaki’s mission is to collaborate with the greater Ollantaytambo community and to ensure our work fits into the pre-existing culture, traditions, and economy,’ intern Elizabeth

Nicholls explains. Unlike some voluntour experiences, it is also humanly impossible to take the weavers’ jobs without years of training. Placements last from 3 weeks to six months and are organised around either the cooperatives directly or the sustainable

It’s a chance to work with the women and local community in a cultural exchange tourism the weavers generate. Awamaki is expecting 28 volunteers in the first half of this year alone. Whether your interests lie in fashion, business or communications, it’s a chance to work with the women and local community in a cultural exchange, develop transferable skills alongside them at training workshops and gain experience in international development. To fully experience Peruvian culture and learn a bit of Spanish on the side, volunteers live with a local family – one of Elizabeth’s favourite aspects. ‘My day-to-day work with Awamaki is very rewarding, and I’m developing and practicing skills that may be hard to come by with a different internship,’ she says. ‘But I wouldn’t fully appreciate Awamaki’s impact or the challenges the organisation faces without spending as much time as I do with my host family.’ Of course every member is quick to emphasise it’s a different way and pace of

life up in the Andes. Giulia tells me one of the weavers did not know the Internet existed prior to a computer workshop (her next goal is to find out what is in it). Perhaps hot water is not always a guarantee, our email communication is affected by a couple of power cuts and you might not be posting those Instapics until you find signal but what can you expect high up in the mountains of a developing country? Call it a technological detox and Awamaki would be selling as a luxury retreat. I have to say, after fully grilling the team, I feel ready to make that escape. Working with some of the most talented yet under-rated artists in the world in such a picturesque landscape full of history already does feel a lot like luxury. Visit www.awamaki.org to book your trip now. Prices start at £170 for a three week stay with discounts for volunteers.

Wonder Woman Jess Ekstrom on putting her entrepreneur skills to good use. Words edited by Fi Anderson.

No.2

During the summer of 2011, I did an internship at the Make-A-Wish Foundation and found that girls loved to wear headbands after losing their hair to treatment. Wigs can be uncomfortable and sometimes embarrassing for younger girls but headbands are the perfect way to still feel girly after hairloss. There were no organizations that provided them so I founded Headbands of Hope. I was 19 when I got the idea and 20 when I launched my business. I was studying communications at the time and continued to finish school and run the company. A lot of my professors were kind enough to let me work on Headbands of Hope in exchange for class credit! My dad is an entrepreneur as well, so I had him as a role model. Plus my family and friends were all super supportive, even though I was young and inexperienced in business. When you purchase a headband, you get a headband for yourself, a headband sent to a child with cancer and $1 to fund research. We’ve partnered with four different childhood cancer research charities: St. Baldrick’s, St. Jude, Alex’s Lemonade Stand and CURE. At checkout, the customer can choose where they want their $1 to go. Headbands are donated to hospitals around the U.S. and some internationally. On one occasion, a girl received her headband in the hospital and sadly passed away a week later. Her mom called me asking if she could have that same headband for all the women in her family to wear to her service the next day because that headband meant so much to her during her last week of life. It’s moments like this that prove how powerful one simple headband can be. The risk of losing your life is hard enough to deal with. Losing your feminine identity shouldn’t be a concern of theirs. Since we’ve launched, we’ve been featured on the Today Show, Vanity Fair, Forbes, InStyle, Seventeen, Lucky, and worn by celebrities Lea Michele, Lauren Conrad, Whitney Port and more. But more importantly, we’ve been able to donate headbands to every children’s hospital in the U.S. I think if you have the passion behind an idea, the rest figures itself out. http://www.headbandsofhope.com Read about all our Wonder Women on the website.