SLT0Doha(Feb08)

01

foreword

sur la terre

Foreword Welcome to the first Doha edition of Sur la Terre!

We have been working very hard these past few months to bring you the very best of what luxury has to offer from Doha and around the world. Indeed, luxury is becoming more and more an integrated part of our everyday life and is not limited anymore to products, but services too. Who doesn’t want to be pampered in a luxurious Spa? Who doesn’t want to avoid the hassle of check-ins at airports and travel in a private jet?

We all want to know what’s best and where to get it and this is what the Sur la Terre team is dedicated to bring to you in every issue.

Spring is upon us and brings the luxury world alive with excitement for the new season of watches and jewellery exhibitions that should not be missed, such as BaselWorld and the SIHH. However, the most prestigious watches and jewellery exhibition in Qatar comes first, the fifth Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition, and for that we bring you the very best in luxury, from the classiest boutiques to opulent watches and, of course, diamonds, with Mr DeBeers himself, Philippe McGarry, advising us on how to choose the best diamond for any occasion.

Mont Blanc is also one of the leading symbols of luxury, and we celebrate it’s recent centenary by following it’s inception from a simple pen manufacturer to the legacy it is today. Private aviation has become a field of luxury all to itself, and Sur la Terre takes to the skies to admire the sheer comfort and design that the new luxury models have to offer.

In this issue we also introduce you to a newcomer in the hospitality industry in the Middle East: W Hotels. Having made a name for themselves internationally as the fastest growing luxury hotel brand in the market, they open their doors with the highly anticipated W Hotel Doha opening in June 2008. It will bring with it new restaurants to try and new shops to visit in addition to the other addresses our team has found especially for you around town. Doha moves, Doha lives, Doha is a city in constant evolution.

The new Doha Sur la Terre keeps you ahead in the world of luxury and lifestyle: go out, enjoy your time and explore with Doha Sur la Terre!

Elly Cardwell

Cover Photography: Adrian Haddad Doha Sur la Terre Managing Director: Jocquine Chami Regional Managing Editor: Elly Cardwell Marketing & Editorial: Zeina Abu Issa Graphic Design: Larry Issa, Wessam El Din, Maya Saikali Editorial Contributors: Laura Tyson, Mireille Samaha

Pub lished by: Firefly Communications, PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar.

Tel: +974 434360, fax: +974 4304359.

4

contents

sur la terre

Contents 07

NEW IN TOWN

11

SHOPPING

14

SPA SPECIAL

20

BEAUTY

25

OBJECTS Metal Dreams

30

ACCESSORIES Baby Stars

38

DISCOVERY Restaurant Buzz

42

COMING SOON W Doha

48

O2

50

BRAND HISTORY • The Golden Age of Couture • Montblanc

62

DESIGN Julius Shulman, the master

5

contents

sur la terre

68

SPECIAL LIFESTYLE Rare Birds

76

FASHION Techno Chic

90

SPECIAL EDITION • How to Choose your Diamonds • Interview with Philippe McGarry • World’s Most Expensive Watches • Discover your own Birthstone • Unique Concept Stores Around the World

102

H2O

104

BOOKS & WEBSITES

106

DVDs

107

MUSIC

108

RESTAURANTS Cafe Ceramique

110

PEOPLE

7

new in town sur la terre

Zai presents Azza Fahmy and Julien Macdonald’s collaboration Building on last year's success, the relationship continues between Azza Fahmy, the Middle East's most prestigious jewellery designer, and the internationally renowned fashion designer Julien Macdonald (OBE), culminating with a twenty piece bespoke jewellery collection - Azza Fahmy for Julien Macdonald - presented during the London Fashion Week.

Commenting of the occasion, Julien Macdonald said “Azza Fahmy's individual style, intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail together with her use of precious and semi-precious stones caught my imagination

and we have worked together to design fantastic large scale pieces that work in harmony with the themes of my collection”.

Big dramatic necklaces, striking broche combinations, and eyecatching bracelets and rings along with intricate detailing combined with ultra modern designs in 18ct gold and silver form parts of this collection and are due to be launched in May 08 in all Azza Fahmy outlets worldwide. The limited collection will be available in Qatar exclusively at Zai Boutique Sharq Village & Spa.

Bonhams holds first Middle East auction Bonhams, the international fine art auction house established in the UK since 1793, will hold its first Middle East auction sale in Dubai this March featuring works from some of the biggest names in modern and contemporary Arab, Iranian, Indian and Pakistani art, including India's Francis Newton Souza, Syria's Louay Kayyali and Iran's Nasser Ovissi. Fine jewellery and watches will also be included in the sale.

“We have a well-established reputation in sales of Indian and Pakistani art in London, where we recently achieved a world-record of £602,400 for the auction of an historic Raj painting by Raja Ravi Varma,” said Claire Penhallurick, Bonhams' Director of Islamic and Indian Art. “We are expecting an

encouraging and positive response from our first auction in the region. It is early days for the local art scene and difficult to predict the potential of the market, however the opportunity for development is vast.”

Founder of India's Progressive Artists' movement in 1947, Francis Newton Souza is internationally-renowned as an articulate genius, augmenting his disturbing and powerful canvases with his sharp, stylish and provocative prose. His 1955 work 'The Elder' - with an estimated value of US $240,000-300,000 will be a highlight of the Bonhams Dubai auction, which will run at the Royal Mirage Hotel from March 2-4 2008.

Additional contemporary Arab artists featured in the auction include Ahmed Moustafa, Adam Henein, Muddares, Hadi, Guiragossian and from Iran, Farhad Moshiri, Tanavoli, Zendroudi and Sepehri.

India is well represented by B Prabha, Avinash Chandra and Swaminathan with Sadequain, Chughtai, Shakir Ali and Jamil Naqsh from Pakistan also being shown. Curated by Claire Penhallurick, the auction event will begin with open viewings at the Royal Mirage Ballroom on 29th February and 1st March 2008.

Dior Christal stunning in scarlet Dior introduces a new deep red Dior Christal timepiece, magnetic in its attraction, magnificent in its extravagance.

Bold and sensationally chic, this new limited-edition Dior Christal 38 mm full-set diamond chronograph fuses the vibrant red of Dior's signature sapphire crystal with the glamour of 307 glittering diamonds: around the turning bezel, dramatically interspersed with red sapphire crystal; on the red lacquer dial, defining the indexes; on the crown, where an intricate rosecut diamond sparkles. On the strap, in an ultimate touch of brilliance, a single row of 216 diamonds traces a dazzling circle around the wrist between two serried ranks of pyramidcut red sapphire crystal.

RODO launches its Spring/ Summer look for 2008 The new Rodo collection is a perfect synthesis of elegance and precious modernity.

A manifestation of sophisticated femininity for a collection inspired by the Cote dÁzue style and by Rodo's historical archives.

The cane bags mark the beginning of the Rodo

production from the fifties, framed by silver and gold mirrors decorated with symbolic anchors and created in elaborate shapes of buckets and crates in different sizes. The exquisite shopping bag and half moon versions, decorated with metallic motifs perfectly compliment the varnished patent high heeled moccasins and the feminine

8

new in town sur la terre

Rolls-Royce celebrates record results Rolls-Royce Motor Cars were delighted to announce their sales for 2007, which saw an increase of 25 per cent, compared to 2006, with retails of 1010 cars.

This is the first time that annual sales have reached four figures and the fourth successive sales increase since the company was launched in 2003. There was strong demand for all Phantom models, with the four door versions (Phantom and Phantom Extended Wheelbase) remaining the best sellers and accounting for 75 per cent of the total.

However, it was the exceptional demand for the new Phantom Drophead Coupé, launched in the summer, which drove the volume increase.

“Everybody at Rolls-Royce is delighted with this tremendous result which marks our fifth anniversary in the best possible way,” said Ian Robertson, Chairman and Chief Executive. “It c o n f i r m s Rolls-Royce as the most desirable brand in the super luxury market and is a credit to the passion and dedication of our teams at Goodwood and around the world.

The customer reaction to the Drophead Coupé has been astonishing, exceeding all our expectations.”

The Rolls-Royce dealer network expanded to 80 in 2007, with new showrooms including St Petersburg, Kiev and Dresden.

The top selling dealers worldwide in 2007 were, respectively, Beverly Hills, London, Abu Dhabi, Tokyo and Dubai. Abu Dhabi saw the highest annual increase, with

Spyker D12 Peking-to-Paris SSUV launched in Qatar His Excellency Sheikh Nawaf Bin Nasser Al Thani, CEO of Nasser Bin Khaled and Sons Holding, unveiled today the prototype of the Spyker D12 Peking-to-Paris SSUV at the Nasser Bin Khaled Showroom in the presence of Mr. Salah Al Mutawah, Director of Sales and Marketing - Spyker Middle East, as well as dignitaries, honorary officials and journalists.

The premiere of this Super Sports Utility Vehicle (SSUV) marks the introduction of a new major product offering from Spyker, who are famous for producing the Spyker C8 Spyder, Laviolette super sports cars. The Spyker D12 Peking-to-Paris, named after

the Peking to Paris race of 1907, known as the most grueling race of all time, is a hand built, fourwheel drive, four-door, four-seater luxury Super Sports Utility Vehicle with a spacious interior and a high performance W12 500 bhp engine. Customers can expect to enjoy a unique ride with Spyker D12 Peking-to-Paris SSUV as of the first quarter of 2009.

9

new in town sur la terre

Alfardan Introduces another Maserati Jewel in Doha Alfardan Sports Motors Company, member of Alfardan Group and exclusive importer of luxurious Maserati in Qatar, announced the arrival of its top of the line highly awaited Quattroporte edition, the Collezione Cento, to Doha. Only one car of this premium model will be available for Qatar market in Alfardan Sports Motors Company showroom.

A novelty for Maserati in 2008, Maserati Collezione Cento made its debut in Detroit with just 100 units in line for production worldwide, making this unique sedan all the more exclusive. The 100 lucky owners will be guaranteed luxury and exclusivity, thanks to the numbered plate built into the dashboard molding.

Collezione Cento boasts of immense comfort, technology and luxury while featuring a brand-new ivory color, with a livery on the sides that enhances the sinuous lines of the Quattroporte. On the exterior, the 20” wheels are fitted with polished rims, adding the perfect touch of sophistication and elegance. The chromed honeycomb front and side grilles also bring out the executive flagship nature of this sedan. The Quattroporte Collezione Cento is also fitted with a 4244 cc engine (400 bhp) paired with hydraulic

automatic 6-speed transmission that guarantees the same performance as the Quattroporte Automatica range.

The Collezione Cento takes Maserati’s core characteristics of elegance, uniqueness and luxury to higher levels and only one lucky Maserati enthusiast will be able to own this car in Qatar and be one of the few owners across the globe to enjoy its overwhelming performance and driving experience.

Intense by Issey Miyake

Diego Dalla Palma

The new Issey Miyake fragrance L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme INTENSE, is an Eau de Toilette that’s luminous, warm and noble. The bottle is smooth and transparent, with reflections of anthracite imbued with transparency and light, creating an elegant contrast between opacity and transparence.

Of the fragrance itself, the freshness of mandarin allied with the elegance of yuzu is joined by bergamot for an intense citrus top note, while the spices are amplified in the heart notes: the tangy elegance of nutmeg melds with the burst of saffron, whilst cardamom seals their union. Lastly, the wood notes welcome a new, emblematic ingredient: black incense. Immersed in the sensuality of wood, combining shadow and light, it is heightened by the unctuous balm and mineral facets of ambergris, resulting in a unique sensation of woody intensity.

A new Professional Make up range from Milan, Italy has just been launched in Doha,

by Merch. Diego Della Palma represents the world of Italian Professional Make Up, emphasizing the brand’s traditions, tastes and close ties with fashion - but above all, its distinctiveness. The brand’s characteristic packaging has always been expressed by clear lines and simplicity of form – black and white are an integral part of the Diego Della Palma heritage, enhancing recognition and creating a distinct identity. These contrasting tones are the protagonists of the new line, in a contemporary, sophisticated version – an opaque, velvety caviar black married with a soft, bright, luminous white. Diego Dalla Palma is currently available exclusively at Merch Salwa and Merch Mall branches and has a complete range of colors and products to suit all customer needs.

11

shopping

sur la terre

Aigner Aigner, the German brand, is a leader in the design, sourcing and distribution of quality women’s handbags and small leather goods. In addition, the brand offers footwear, gloves and belts through successful licensing partnerships with leading manufacturers.

Their latest innovation is their collection of timeless jewellery, a unique brand extension on its own. Paired with elements from their handbag collection, it truly is a work of art. In Dubai, the Swiss Watch Group, the sister company of Aigner, held a Jewellery fashion show on ice in Mina Al Salam in which Aigner was showcased, and Aigner also sponsored and participated in the Catwalk Award event for Young European design students in Dresden, Germany.

Aigner, who participates in various charitable activities to assist several organizations of different domains, recently also supported diabetic patients by sponsoring the World Diabetics Day in Hong Kong. Beside the promotion, Aigner has also contributed in charity sales during their shop opening in Elements and had dedicated 5% of Etienne bags’ sales to be donated to Hong Kong Juvenile Diabetics Association.

12

shopping

sur la terre

Durar The evolution of modern day Qatar, where a fusion of different tastes are blended into an exquisite selection of unique yet fashionable jewellery that speaks for itself, Durar is fast making a name for itself in the jewellery and accessory market in the Middle East.

Offering designs descendant of cultures from all around the world, such as Hong Kong, France, Italy, Turkey, Lebanon and Syria, Durar has something for everyone.

Ms. Samar El Shafai, the owner of Durar, is a young and extremely creative Egyptian living and working in Qatar who thought of the concept with her colleagues at work. “When women visit one another, they usually have a tea party, or sit comfortably chatting and swapping stories, so I decided to create a feminine feel where it seems as though my customers are visiting a friend’s home”. By introducing a cozy couch, crystal lamp shades and, of course, a cup of coffee or tea, the effect within Durar is just that. The boutique also boasts antique wooden furniture that only adds to the ambiance and compliments the glittering array of jewellery beautifully displayed in the purposely built engraved shelving in the walls.

Ms. El Shafai visited a multitude of countries collecting the variety of designs she showcases in her boutique, explaining that she tried to be

original in the way she picked her jewels as she wanted to offer a wide variety of items that would be to the taste of her customers. With its prime location in the heart of Al Sadd she also sees Durar as a destination, somewhere her customers would specifically go to, as opposed to being in a shopping mall and accidentally ending up inside.

Durars’ collection offers the most recent seasonal trends and aims to constantly evolve with a dynamic pattern of new designs from different countries. Customers looking for that special something for themselves, their friends or their loved ones will no longer have to travel the globe searching for unique designs – it’s all now available locally for the first time in one boutique.

ZAI Boutique: the Ultimate High-End Fashion Haven in Qatar Nasser Bin Khaled Holding (NBK), a leading business conglomerate in Qatar, has recently opened at Al Sharq Village & Spa its very own concept of a luxurious fashion haven in Qatar: Zai Boutique, the name of which originally came from the word “zeyy” which means, in Arabic, a national costume or traditional dress. Operating under Prime, subsidiary of NBK, Zai Boutique is an aesthetic fusion of past and present, of classic and street lines, of oriental and western inspirations.

It is the perfect blend between culture, with traditional architecture, design and arabesques, and style, with the latest trends and runway fashions.

fashion names previously not available in the market: Rodo, Barbara Bui, Alessandro Dell'Aqua, Azzaro, Costume National Blugirl Folies, Pierre Balmain, to name just a few. It also displays creations from the most exclusive and fine jewelry designers such as Azza Fahmy, Nada Lecavelier, and Dina Azar.

Spread over 515 sq meters, Zai Boutique aims at defining the essence of luxury fashion retailing. It houses more than 100 of the world’s most coveted brands and designers such as the romantic Parisian House Lanvin, the cutting-edge fashion designer Paul Smith, the epitomes of Middle Eastern glamour and oriental beauty Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad, the exquisite and refined fashion label Nina Ricci, the 3 times designer of the year at the British Fashion Awards Matthew Williamson, the French Leather King Jitrois, the young, fresh, and favored designer among Hollywood elite Zac Posen, the modern, cool, urban and cutting-edge Karl Lagerfeld label, the fabulous Zagliani bags made out of either python or crocodile leather … and so many other well-known

By opening its doors to a world of High-End brands and trends, expertly edited assortments, sumptuous style surroundings, exemplary customer service, including complimentary exclusive concierge services, personal stylist advices, dedicated and knowledgeable team, and with VIP events and collection previews throughout the year, Zai Boutique has undoubtedly changed the

14

spa special sur la terre

15

spa special sur la terre

Pampering has become a luxury we can all afford, so where do you go for the best spa experience? Sur la Terre visits two of the best spas in Doha.

The Four Seasons Spa Located in the booming West Bay area in Doha, the Four Seasons Hotel Doha is designed in a modern Arabian style that quietly exudes quality and class. An asset to Doha's fast growing hotel industry, the Four Seasons has become a firm favourite with both business and leisure travelers, as well as those already living in Doha who visit the hotel for afternoon tea, incredible cuisine and fantastic Spa treatments.

The three-storey Spa and Wellness Centre, which was designed by Dubai-based architects Hamilton Design and Spa Consultant Anna Bjurstam of Raison d'Etre, is simply breathtaking, and the sensation of peace and tranquility as you enter the reception area is immediate.

Every need has been catered for, and walking through the spa is like shrugging off the layers of stress and worry that inevitably occur in everyday life.

The Spa uses the concept of the Five Elements: Wood, Fire, Earth, Metal and Water, and these elements are reflected throughout in design, cuisine and treatments. Used to make you feel at ease, the elements treat you and holistically care for you using a proven healthy framework to balance the same elements that are within you naturally.

The products, meanwhile, are pure Sodashi, selected for their purity, potency and theraputic qualities, with not a chemical in sight - a common theme within the Spa. The restorative cycle begins with water in the Spa's chemical-free hydrotherapy lounge, the most extensive in the region, which contains a Kneipp reflexology foot bath, lined with foot-massaging pebbles; hot and cold plunge pools that are a delight to jump in and out of; hydrotherapy and resistance pools which give you a good pummeling work out; a Roman-style laconium thermal suite and heated laconium beds which are bliss on your muscles, and a meditative colour therapy room where computer-programmed colours re-balance your chakras and yes, it really works; the flow of colour washing over you is unbelievably renewing. These facilities are open to both men and women, and in addition there is an Ice room, Steam, Sauna, Jacuzzi and Swiss showers in the individual changing areas. As if that weren't enough, the Spa also features a tepidarium for wraps and scrubs, as well as a Thai massage room.

Inside each of the 11 treatment rooms, water walls cool and relax you instantly, and the ambience of each individually designed room is soothing and peaceful - the perfect compliment, really, to the incredible massage or treatment that you will receive there. There is also a Private Suite available, which contains twin treatment beds and its own steam room, whirl pool bath, Swiss shower and relaxation area for the ultimate spa experience.

The treatments themselves are nothing short of heavenly, and it's hard to pick just one! Their one-of-a-kind signature '5 Elements in Harmony with the Seasons' treatment, which lasts 3 hours and takes you on a journey through the seasons of life, includes a prelude to winter with a cooling and invigorating body exfoliation to the body, hands and feet;

16

spa special sur la terre

into spring and a nourishing bath; on to summer with hot s t o n e s massage techniques, and concluding with autumn and a deeply relaxing and comforting wrap, rich in active minerals and algae, which leaves your skin feeling and looking toned.

Essential oils are tenderly persuaded to enter the skin with the Relaxing Aroma Massage, and the effective powers of the plant essences, with their healing and therapeutic properties, flow throughout the body and help balance your elements.

The Spa Specials, such as the delicious Chocolate Delight, awakens your senses in a whole new way with an invigorating Coffee Salt Body Treatment followed by a relaxing Chocolate Massage. With treatments for her, for him, and for teenagers, not to mention their facials, scrubs and wraps, you will return again and again just to try something else!

Of course there is also a spectacular Fitness Centre, which includes an aerobics studio, cardiovascular and weight training areas, two indoor squash courts and even multilingual trainers on hand to help you get the most out of your workout.

To make the most out of your Four Seasons Spa experience you should always arrive at least 30 minutes prior your scheduled appointment time to enjoy the extensive facilities you won't be disappointed! The treatments also continue to give you benefits once you leave the treatment room, and the silent relax room, where you can lie down, totally relax and embody your experience together with a refreshing drink, is the

18

spa special sur la terre

There's nothing spartan about the spa at Sharq Village & Spa, where the 70,000 sq foot Six Senses Spa, the largest in the region, has been turned into the ultimate wellness and fitness area. Sharq Village & Spa brings together two of the biggest names in hospitality and wellness with The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company B.V. operating the hotel, and Six Senses Spas operating the spa. Sharq Village & Spa is situated on Doha Bay in a superb location only minutes from Doha International Airport. It is expected to become one of the region's premier conference venues in a very short time, with the Six Senses Spa also being a major draw card because of its international reputation.

The spa villages incorporate the traditional Qatari design features that make the Six Senses Spa at Sharq Village & Spa so unique, and are connected by a labyrinth of weaving pathways, cascading fountains and lush greenery, all aimed at creating a sense of inner peace and wellbeing. With four separate spa villages each offering a variety of treatments in surroundings that can only be described as truly luxurious, the 23 treatment rooms are fashioned on a traditional Qatari environment where typical village houses have heated stone massage beds, mud baths and private majlis (meeting) areas.

Because of the unique design, it is possible to reserve one of the spa villages for exclusive group treatments and relation sessions - the perfect way to wind down after a full day in the conference rooms.

Traditional Arabian, Thai and Swedish therapies are supplemented by more holistic offerings such as naturopathy and, with specialist visiting practitioners bringing an even wider range, it's possible to experience a different treatment every day for an entire month - and spend the whole day there.

Sharq Village & Spa

The spa is complete with full state-of-the-art exercise facilities, changing, relaxation and prayer rooms and opportunities to practice everything from Tai Chi to Eastern meditation. Qualified instructors offer a wide range of regularly scheduled fitness classes for those who prefer to work out in a group. For women, the Six Senses Spa offers an exclusive ladies entrance and reception area, a private gymnasium and exercise area, as well as a full-service beauty salon offering hair, nail and henna treatments.

“Spa is no longer an experience only for the rich and famous,” said Hossein Vetry, General Manger of Sharq Village & Spa. “These days, spa treatments and spa vacations are seen by many sophisticated travellers as a way to de-stress, slow down the aging process, and take care of their overall health and well being. We are delighted to be working alongside the Six Senses Spa”.

No longer a rarity, more a way of life, business and leisure travellers have come to view the spa experience as an inspiring necessity for maintaining a healthier work/life balance, well being and personal productivity. As a result, The Six Senses Spa has developed a focused menu that would pamper those who seek a soul inspiring experience.

The menu is designed to inspire a day of pampering for those seeking a truly transcendent spa experience. The Six Senses Sodashi range, combined with the pampering treatments provided by massage therapists at Six Senses Spas, bring together all elements necessary for the traveler in need of rejuvenation. Guests may select from a wider

19

spa special sur la terre

exercise classes at the fitness centre.

The Six Senses Menu highlights include:

variety of treatments starting with anything from a one-hour massage to the exquisite Six Senses Signature treatment “Couples Bath Ritual�, which includes the spa therapists preparing a bath mixture of essential oils, bath salts and flower petals in a romantic setting for you and your loved one. While the aromatherapy oils are being absorbed into your skin, soaked with these moisturizing and healing ingredients, you will emerge with softer and more radiant skin and a higher sense of well being.

Allowing you to enjoy the sublime relaxation in complete privacy, a delicious fruit cocktail made for sharing completes a unique and memorable experience.

Guests can also enjoy soul 'inspiring' spa packages, from total balance, ultimate vitality to pure pampering experiences. The spa packages include a holistic massage, a gourmet spa-inspired lunch in the spa villa; unlimited use of the spa facilities, complimentary access to the relaxation lounges, sauna and steam room. Other energizing offers are Yoga, Tai Chi and group

SPA JOURNEYS Create a one-of-a-kind experience in one of the 'Spa Villages'. The Six Senses Spa at Sharq Village & Spa offers separate Spa Villages that can be booked for private groups or couples to enjoy at their leisure. The spa specialists will be happy to assist you with the planning of your Spa Village Day Journey to create a truly memorable occasion for you, your guests and your valued business clients.

ARABIAN THERAPIES The Arabian inspired therapies have been specially developed based on local Arabic culture and products used thousands of years ago. These traditional remedies are still used today and the Six Senses Spa at Sharq Village & Spa will take you back in time to experience the traditional benefits in true Arabian style and in the comfort of your very own private spa village house.

HAMAM RITUALS Based on the Amayyed era where Damascus was the bustling capital of this Ancient Arabian Empire. Rose Damascena was treasured then as it is today for its healing, rejuvenating and uplifting properties. The Hammam is based upon research of the ancient methods and secrets of the Moroccan bath and uses present day knowledge to create a scented Hammam ritual. These treatments will leave you feeling cleansed and relaxed, yet alert and energized. The Hammam can be enjoyed alone in the privacy of a single suite or can be enjoyed with a friend or partner in a double suite.

SIGNATURE TREATMENTS Two therapists synergistically performing a facial and body massage at the same time! This unique sensory journey begins before you reach the treatment room and continues long after you leave. It offers a unique variation of a four-handsmassage from two highly skilled therapists. Your therapists will work in harmony to take you on a journey of the five senses and beyond. A luxurious footbath, warm towels and fresh fragrances are just the beginning. You will experience a truly non-traditional body aroma massage using long, smooth strokes synchronized with a cleansing facial and a stress relieving scalp massage. The natural desire to concentrate on your treatment will disappear as the unusual sequence encourages your mind to let go of stress to induce a deep state of calm.

DRY FLOATATION THERAPIES Floatation is a unique experience, which can allow us to withdraw temporarily from the onslaught of daily pressures, tune into an inner oasis of calm and create

20

beauty

sur la terre

Production : Karen Sellam Photography : Ian Abela @ Visionairs In Art www.ianabela.com Model : Ayé Make-up : Sandra Jeannin @ Powder&Shine

Beauty Lips Platinéum restructuring Eye and Lip Contour Cream LANCÔME Gloss Palette Stickgloss LAURA MERCIER Base for perfect lips SEPHORA PROFESSIONNEL Red hydrating lipstick in comforting cream CHANEL

21

beauty

sur la terre

beauty Beauty Hand Cleansing hand Gel ESTEBAN Cream for dry hands L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE Le Vernis nail polish CHANEL Cellular Performance intensive treatment for hands SENSAÏ POUR KANEBO INTERNATIONAL Apricot cream for nails CHRISTIAN DIOR

22

beauty

sur la terre

Beauty Body Lip Show Palette CHRISTIAN DIOR Bust Firming Beauty Gel CLARINS Sublime Powder for face and body Forever Gold GUERLAIN White Musk Shimmer Mist THE BODY SHOP Ultra-soothing and anti-shine Voile Poudre Eclat

BY TERRY Sarrasins Perfume SERGE LUTENS

23

beauty

sur la terre

Beauty Eyes An oxygenating and revitalising moistureprotecting Serum Skin-Expert Detox & Rescue BY TERRY Precious care for eyes and lips So Nature JEAN D’ESTRÉES Palette of three eye shadows Scarlett’s Delux Palette STILLA Soothing and corrective eye contour cream Time System INSTITUT ESTHEDERM Cats’ Eyes Lash Queen Mascara HELENA RUBINSTEIN Mascara Wonder Length CLARINS Mother-of-pearl mini eye-shadow BOURGEOIS False eye-lashes MAKE UP FOR EVER

25

objects

sur la terre

In black enamel or in barelythere colours, here is a technology selection designed for citydwellers, people on the move and lovers of the last word in innovation.

objects

Metal dreams

Text: Anne & Judikael Hirel

Photographs: rights reserved

Unique Sound This is an exercise in style if ever there was one. The Norwegian jeweller Heyerdahl has created the most expensive MP3 Walkman by covering an iPod Shuffle with 50 grams of 18 carat gold and 430 diamonds, for a total of 4.3 carats. idiamond, www.heyerdahl.no

Living room Intuition

Fiat lux…or “Let there be Light”!

Renovate your bathroom by installing a bath-tub and a wash-basin made out of coloured polyethylene (red, orange, yellow, lilac, white, etc) conceived by the designer Jan Puylaert, and integrating a halogen lighting system.

Sopha industrie, light collection by Wet, www.sopha.fr

There are all sorts of universal remote controls. And then there is THE remote control, the most “design”, the most expensive, also, the most intuitive, with its touch controls. The nec plus ultra – its buttons and functions are personalised by a professional before being confided to the buyer.

Like a high tech sceptre, it associates the square shape of its LCD screen with the aluminium and tungsten ball equipped with tactile keys and a volume-regulating wheel.

Bang & Olufsen Beo5, www.bang-olufsen.com

Woodland bending Do you love rowing? There’s nothing to stop you doing it in your own living room! Listen to the sound of water, mime the movements of an oarsman, with the only fitness machine that forms part of the permanent collection of the London Design Museum. In walnut, ash or cherry, or in steel, this machine doesn’t use any weight-resistance, instead it is the volume in the water tank which creates a natural resistance to your movement, just like rowing.

Water Rower, www.waterrower.com

Ground Swell Gone are the days when speakers were as ugly as they were massive, and they ruined interior design in the name of home cinema. Now you can refer to the home cinema of Darth Vader, dark and angular, with a power of 600W, a DVD reader and a hard disk of 250 Gb to record and watch all that you want.

Pioneer PCS-LX01, www.pioneer.eu

With milk Coffee? Espresso or with a hint of milk? Cappuccino or Latte Macchiato? Because everyone’s taste is different, this coffee machine, available in satin, white or red, acts as if it were an Italian barista, the wine waiter of the coffee world, by integrating a removable 0.5 litre vat of fresh milk. Result: an Italian coffee topped with a fine milk foam, by simply pressing the one-touch button. Pure happiness in a cup...

Delonghi Nespresso Lattissima, www.nespresso.com

Free wheeling Sisyphus would definitely have appreciated pushing this speaker instead of his mythical rock.

Designed in collaboration with the famous designer, Ron Arad, its measurements are suited to outdoor living. In lacquered wood, white, orange or in a colour of your choice, all you need to do is roll outside. With an integrated receiver and amplifier, its transmission is via an FM 2-way transmitter.

NacSound Freewheeler, www.nacsound.it

Extreme Performance Portable Sound System For people always on the move, here is something else to pack into your bottomless travel bag. Forget angles, give way instead to the purity of curves for this iPod dock, it’s dark and rounded, only 7 cm high and 15 cm across. Available in black or white, it has a wireless connection in a 5 metre range.

JBL On Tour XTB, www.jbl.com

27

objects

sur la terre

The screen of the future You will have heard the eternal arguments about flat screens, plasma technology versus LCD? That’s not the future, the future is Oled, a technology containing electroluminescent diodes, already used for mobile phone and camera screens.

And in true visionary spirit, Sony demonstrates just how far ahead it is. Its XEL-1, just released in Japan, might perhaps only be 11 inches in diameter, but this screen is only 3 mm thick, and it gives an unbelievable contrast of 1,000,000:1 where an LCD screen only reaches 3,000:1. And there is more to smile about, the life expectancy of such screens is much longer and they are much more ecological because they consume less energy.

Sony XEL-1, www.sony.com

Just like at the wheel Clearly inspired by the materials and design of super-cars, the new Vertu lists its credentials: the screen stop watch and the keyboard lighting of this quad band are worthy of the dashboard of an Aston Martin. You’ll find the classic Vertu mobile phone features (leather finish, scratch-resistant sapphire screen, polished ceramic, hand-crafted, etc) but in a revamped design. A little extra: 3 ringtones especially created by David Arnold, composer of numerous James Bond tracks. Lastly, security, Fortress technology synchronises all the data stored in the telephone on a ultra-protected server.

Vertu Ascent Ti, www.vertu.com

Touch of genius

Calling Card

The seventh marvel of the world, that’s what it is, leaving all modesty aside, that’s how Steve Jobs has nick-named his new iPod, Touch. And with its 8mm thickness and its 3.5” diagonal touch screen, it is fatally desirable.

To watch a film wherever you are, to be connected wirelessly via Wi-Fi, to the Internet, to buy music on the iTunes Music Store, and even to listen … It can do absolutely everything.

Ipod Touch 16 Go, www.apple.com

The size of a credit card, scarcely 10mm thick: a compendium of Armani style revisited by Samsung, resulting in a matt finish mobile phone, equipped with a large, tactile screen, and with an integrated 3-million pixel camera, an audio walkman and a port for SD memory cards. As you remove this 85g of elegance from its leather case, you will know better than anyone that luxury is a purified form of difference.

Samsung Giorgio Armani, www.samsung.com

Black magic

Fashion week This is not just another camera, it’s a must for the fashion victim with its top model looks, its case designed in titanium and its 12 megapixel sensor. All this in a box no bigger than a cigarette packet...stop smoking and photograph all the models of the new Paris, London and Milan collections.

Canon Digital Ixus 960 IS, www.canon.com

A giant wall-mounted flat screen, a high definition home cinema, speakers with an extraordinary sound. An idyllic description, a perfect techno setting.

But...what a shame to have to sit so close to the screen, thanks to cabling which is not long enough, even though the headset is of high quality. Beyond refined design, this wireless, semi-enclosed headset weighing scarcely 200 grams scorns such trivia: in the living room and in the garden or on the terrace, the RF signals travel through walls and partitions in a range of 100 m.

AKG Hearo wireless headset K930, www.harman.com

Music of the spheres It makes you think of heavenly music. However, it is actually the music coming from the integrated speakers of this hybrid mobile phone designed by David Lewis. Half- telephone, with its round virtual keyboard, half-audio-video-walkman with tactile buttons, integrated base and speakers, this little musical gem resembles nothing known.

And that’s exactly where its charm lies: excellence in being different.

B&O Serenata, approx. www.bang-olufsen.com

Liquid Gold A quiet golden wave? Yes, it exists, and can be found on the edge of your desk. This portable hard drive with a 500 Gb capacity has been designed by the famous designer Ora Ito. It can store up to 500,000 photos, 125,000 songs or 500 films. Shining like a jewel, protected by a golden casing, it seems to be inhabited by a marine wave. Mac- and PC-compatible, it owes its silence to the absence of a computer.

LaCie Golden Disk 500 Go, www.lacie.com

Central Point

Intelligent vibration Quiet and compact, this vibrating plate available in designer colours (black, silver, plum, red, turquoise, etc) will save you time: 10 minutes of exercise on this plate corresponds to 1 hour of training, and ensures all your muscles are used. Guaranteed weight loss and toning‌ Go vibrate!

Silver plate, www.cemmax.com

More than a flat screen, this is a true multimedia centre, able to communicate, wireless or not, with the whole of your digital universe: PC, camera, mobile, game console, walkman, etc. Nothing easier than scrolling through the multimedia contents on its screen, thanks to a simple and friendly interface, the Network Mediaplayer. Available in 32, 37 and 42 inch versions, this new generation of TV will be available with or without an integrated hard disk to record programmes in high definition, and will be available in white enamel, black enamel or silver plated.

Loewe Connect DR+ TV, www.loewe-uk.com

30

accessories sur la terre

Baby

Stars Production : Julie Cerf Photography : Ian Abela @ Visionairs In Art www.ianabela.com Hair and Make-up : Raynald Bernard @ Mod’s Hair A big thank you to our Baby Stars : Luna, Charlotte, Shane, Léa, Alice, Noor, Appoline and Noah

Luna

Dark-blue nightdress PETIT BATEAU Sleeveless fur vest INES & MARECHAL Jumpers CHANEL Yellow gold pendant necklace PIAGET Boots in grey buckskin and patent leather MARC BY MARC JACOBS Lead glass sunglasses BOTTEGA VENETA

31

LĂŠa

accessories sur la terre

White cotton veil nightdress BONPOINT Mouse-eared Headband IKEA Striped ankle socks PETIT BATEAU Purple buckskin and black fur ankle boots BRUNO FRISONI Printed silk scarf EMILIO PUCCI Padded bag in grey leather CHANEL Large red leather bag BOTTEGA VENETA Yellow gold, pearl and diamond necklace BUCCELATTI Bracelet studded with diamonds CARTIER Cloverleaf rings VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

accessories

32

accessories sur la terre

Noah

White and blue combed cotton Pyjamas PETIT BLANC D’IVOIRE Man’s Hat in black felt BON MARCHE Printed silk Tie EMILIO PUCCI Slippers in silver patent leather DRIES VAN NOTEN Bracelet watch in red crocodile BUCCELATTI Beige leather bag S. T. DUPONT

33

accessories sur la terre

Noor

Tiara BON MARCHE Printed Pyjamas BLUET Cork-heeled court shoes in blue and brown buckskin CHANEL Camellia brooch in denim CHANEL Teddy Bear BONPOINT Cloverleaf necklaces VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Jumper with hanging, mother of pearl frogs AURELIE BIDERMAN On the Bear Necklace of rigid flowers studded with diamonds VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Beige Saddle Bag with open-work monogram LOUIS VUITTON On the ground Necklace with sapphires and diamonds BUCCELATTI Diamond-studded Bracelet CHAUMET Five-strand diamond Bracelet CARTIER Yellow Gold necklace studded with diamonds and pearls BUCCELATTI

34

accessories sur la terre

Charlotte

Leggings in plum wool and Dress in pale pink wool ANTIK BATIK Black Vest CHANEL Navy blue platform shoes JIL SANDER Beige leather bag BOTTEGA VENETA Diamond studded collar necklace PIAGET Ring BOUCHERON

35

Alice

accessories sur la terre

Cotton nightdress printed with pink flowers BONPOINT Necklace with feather bib MARNI Red leather bag CHANEL Multi-strapped pumps in white leather CHANEL Over sleeve steel Bracelet CHANEL Plastic Belt COSTUME NATIONAL Yellow Gold and diamond bracelet BUCCELATTI Mother of Pears Bracelet worn on the ankle AURELIE BIDERMAN In her hair, sapphire and diamond necklace BUCCELATTI

36

Appoline

accessories sur la terre

Top in old rose-coloured cotton LA CHATELAINE Brown Leggings printed with silvery stars BONPOINT Pink satin pumps with net flower CHANEL Yellow Gold and diamond necklace BUCCELATTI Pocket handkerchief in pink satin CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Silver leather bag MARNI Leopard Rings studded with diamonds CARTIER Lead glass over sleeve Bracelet PHILIP AUDIBET Man’s Hat in black felt BON MARCHE

37

Shane

accessories sur la terre

Maroon striped pyjamas MALOUP Red leather shoes BALLY Kelly Hat in black leather BOTTEGA VENETA Bracelet Watch in black crocodile PIAGET Stiff butterfly bowtie PAULE KA for women Silk Tie BOTTEGA VENETA Brown leather bag LOUIS VUITTON

38

discovery

sur la terre

Restaurant buzz the talk of the town

Mini Palais - Paris

Discovering a city is an exciting experience, travelling is cool when you fly with

Marquis or, of course, your own Gulfstream. Celebrity chefs create gastronomic menu

delivered to your airport of choice, before take-off. Once you?ve reached your dest La Terre knows what?s hot and happening.

Text: Margaret Kemp

Photographs: All rights reserved

39

discovery

discovery

sur la terre

The Dorchester - London

The Box - New York

The Dorchester - London

French superstar chef Michel del Burgo divides his time between his Paris restaurant L’Orangerie and Moscow. He says Moscow’s contemporary wining and dining scene is unique and eclectic. “The transformation of the city is reflected in the astonishing range of restaurants that have sprung up since the beginning of the 1990’s”, he says. Irish bars, American diners, sushi restaurants, Australian pubs and Le Duc, del Burgo’s gothic 13th century castle located near the World Trade Center.

Le Duc has stained glass windows, an organ, and central fountain as well as the finest wine cellars in Moscow and del Burgo imports absolutely everything, even the salt, from France. On his menu, frogs legs with mushroom ragout on a

disc of polenta, parsley and garlic confit, French onion soup, Anjou pigeon with foie gras and Savoy cabbage, French cheeses and, to finish, Crepes Suzette with Grand Marnier Sauce.

In Paris, Alain Ducasse at the Eiffel Tower is the years’ most exciting launch. After lengthy negotiations Monsieur Ducasse transformed the Jules Verne restaurant from musty to magnificent. The exciting new décor is by Patrick Jouin, who has also designed Ducasse’s Plaza Athénee restaurant Paris and Mix, NYC and Las Vegas.

And, talking Ducasse, his recently launched London restaurant is at The Dorchester on London's Park Lane. “Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester” seats 80, with well spaced tables and three private

dining areas with leafy views onto Park Lane and Hyde Park. The multi-starred Michelin chef (13 at the last count) is putting Nichola Canuti in charge of the state-ofthe-art kitchens and Christian Laval, who has worked with Ducasse longer than he cares to remember, directs the restaurant team. Seems there’s no stopping Ducasse as he opens Benoit and Ardour, NYC (named for the river that flows through the village in France where Ducasse was born).

It’s possible that HM Queen Elizabeth appreciates Gordon Ramsay’s cooking, in 2005 he was awarded the OBE (Order of the British Empire). Now he’s set to become the first British Michelinstarred chef-owner to open a restaurant in the French Capital. “It will be my 15th and follows on the heels of Palm Beach, LA and my New York venture, “London”, he says. “No, it won’t be called “Paris”, simply, Gordon Ramsay!

The location is the magnificent Trianon Palace and Spa, Versailles, on the outskirts of Paris”, reveals Ramsay. It marks a return to France where Ramsay spent three years honing his culinary skills in the kitchens of superchefs Guy Savoy

and Joel Robuchon.

Ecology is the key-word these days and the greening of the restaurant industry, an idealistic movement that took root decades ago, is now a global phenomenon not only for community based eateries but taking in the edgy hot spots. What makes a restaurant green is open to interpretation; for some it means menus emphasizing concepts such as local and organic products. For others it means harnessing alternative energy sources or banning bottled water for filtered.

Many chefs embrace the green movement by cultivating relationships with local farmers, a simple idea pioneered by Alice Waters in 1971 when she opened Chez Panisse, Berkeley, California. In London Clarke’s was founded by Sally Clarke who worked with Ms Waters in California. 22 years after opening, Clarke’s is one of London’s most popular restaurants.

Thomas Keller’s first restaurant, The French Laundry (where he now spends two weeks each month) is located in a former saloon at Yountville, Napa Valley, California. Keller says he owes his

40

discovery

sur la terre

Wa-bi Salon - Paris

Wa-bi Salon - Paris

skill in the kitchen to his mother who taught him everything. “My food is a reflection of contemporary America, with a hint of French Odeon Brasserie”, he says. In New York his Adam Tihany decorated space, Per Se, in the Time Warner Centre, looks out across the treetops of Central Park and his innovative dishes arrive on rainbow coloured dishes, designed by Raynaud. Keller’s menu changes daily and, without connections, you’ll wait two months to taste his cappuccino of forest mushrooms, chaud-froid of foie gras, signature bacon and eggs and wild desserts such as thyme-infused ice cream, cucumber sorbet and milk

chocolate soufflé. It’s worth the wait.

For New Yorkers keeping up with restaurant trends is part of their culture. With over 23,000 eateries competing to be the hippest and hottest, it’s a daunting but thrilling world of possibilities. Don’t hesitate to buy Michelin’s Red Guide www.michelinguide.com Evolving with the trend, American chef Wolfgang Puck recently decided to be kinder to the animals he cooks. In an announcement, in tandem with The Humane Society, (www.hsus.org) Puck now bars cruelty from his $300 million-a-year business empire. “My restaurants, including Spago, no longer serve

foie gras, use pork or crate kept calves, and no hen’s eggs from unhappy hens”, Puck insists.

Charlie Trotter, whose “Madhatter Meatballs” are to die for, agrees with Puck and pioneered Chicago’s ban on foie gras.

In France, at his Paris restaurant L’Arpege, Alain Passard, the only three-star Michelin chef on Paris’s left bank, agrees 100% with California based Alice Waters and Puck. So much so he shocked the staid world of meat-eaters a few years ago by banning meat from his kitchens, saying, “dead animals blood and animal flesh were no longer inspiring me”. He has since relented, serving organic lamb, game and chicken.

Not everyone wants green. Simon Hammerstein, grandson of Oscar Hammerstein, recently launched The Box, on New York City’s Lower East Side. “It’s dinner- theatre – vaudeville and dance all night”, he says. Located in a former 1920’s sign-factory The Box is the talk of the town. The opening was wild, wacky and wonderful, “it’s musically erotic, it starts late and goes on late, perfect for the city that never sleeps”, says regular Box-man, music executive Andre Harrel.

And he’s not alone, Uma Thurman gave a birthday party for her (ex!) boyfriend, hotelier, André Balazs.

Sean Penn, Jude Law and Lindsay

Alain Ducasse with Ardour’s staff - New York

Lohan have turned the club into their New York home away from home. Food, theatre and partying are on the menu. “It’s a soup-tonuts mixture of craziness”, raves Mickey Boardman of People magazine. “I think it’s completely fabulous”. The Box doesn’t come cheap, tables on the ground floor start at $600, including a bottle of champagne.

White toques are out, black Tshirts are in, and there’s a new and deliciously subversive element of fun in kitchens to-day. Dominique Bouchet’s (ex-Le Crillon) eponymous chic-bistro is always packed with regulars who adore his creamy cauliflower soup and seven-hour simmered lamb. Next door Bouchet just launched his private Wa-Bi Salon, where he cooks and heads workshops including ikebana flower arranging lessons and wine and saki tastings, for not more than eight people. “So I can really get to know my clients”, he says.

For Gilles Choukroun his Paris location has to be something sensational, like his food. His talent first came to light at Café des Delices, then at Angl’Opera and now he’s launched Mini-Palais in a magnificent space inside The Grand Palais: culture and cuisine is the theme. Now it’s possible to eat well from breakfast until the early hours, any time is great to taste his

41

discovery

sur la terre

Chocolate-raspberry pie - Le Louis XV, Alain Ducasse

Address Book Russia Le Duc – Michel del Burgo 1905 Goda Street, 2 Moscow KA4 8 T. +7 095 255 0390 The Dorchester - London

Crème Brulée of foie gras with peanuts or gambas à la plancha with avocado, ginger and mint.

Late night DJ’s animate the scene which spills over onto the elegant terrace. “I want to wake up French cuisine, which has dozed off a bit”, says Choukroun.

Cocottes feature at Les Cocottes de Christian Constant, Paris, where Constant’s concept of a French style American diner is creating lines down the block. Eat at the bar or seated on high stools at tables d’hote, simple food is cooked in Staub casseroles. Vegetables, fish, game and always a “cocotte du jour” to eat in or order, freshly cooked, to take away. There’s no telephone and no booking.

Constant, who left the Hotel de Crillon to start his own restaurants says, “it’s simple and it’s the way forward. People don’t want complicated food to-day”.

Some say that to see tomorrow’s trends to-day you have to go to Spain where Martin Berasategui and Elena and Juan Mari Arzak are admired and copied worldwide.

The absolute culinary trendsetter of the century is El Bulli’s Ferran Adria, voted number one restaurant in the world, so inventive “he transcends the limitation of signature dishes”. The restaurant, located 160kms north of Barcelona, only opens from April to September, bookings

open and close on one day in midJanuary.

Heston Blumenthal renowned for his wacky recipes such as baconand-egg ice cream and snail porridge has taken culinary experimentation to a new level at his Fat Duck restaurant, just outside London. He injected a colleague with an extremely powerful dose of chilli oil and ran him through an MRI hospital scanner to monitor the effects! He also wants his diners to listen to amplified, distorted versions of their own chewing to improve the eating experience. “Sound is a great way of helping people enjoy food. The plan is to put microphones in front of people eating and play back the sound of their crunches through headphones. “You’ll enjoy your food differently this way”, he promises. ●

Spain El Bulli Restaurant Cala Montjoi S/N Roses 17480 Spain T. +34 97 215 04 57 www.elbulli.com El Raco de Can Fabes Saint Joan 6, Sant Celoni, Catalonia, Spain T. +34 93 867 28 51 www.relaischateaux.com/raco London Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester 54 Park Lane, London W.1 T. + 44 (1) 207 629 8866 www.thedorchester.com Clarkes 122/124 Kensington Church Street, London W.8 T. + 44 (1) 207 221 9225 www.sallyclarke.com The Fat Duck High Street, Bray, Berkshire T. +44 (0) 1628 580 333 www.fatduck.co.uk Paris The Jules Verne Eiffel Tower, south pillar, Champ-de-Mars T. + 33 1 45 55 61 44 www.tour-eiffel.fr Les Cocottes de Christian Constant 135 rue Saint-Dominique, 7th T. + 33 1 45 50 10 31 www.leviolondingres.com Wa-Bi Salon 9 rue Treilhard, 8th T. + 33 1 42 30 74 65 www.wa-bi-salon.com L’Arpege 84 rue de Varenne, 7th T. + 33 1 45 51 47 33 www.alain-passard.com

Mini Palais Ave Winston Churchill, 8th T. + 33 1 42 56 4242 www.minipalais.com Nicholas Pourcheresse at Auberge de Chavannes 1890 Route de Chalon, Courlans, France T. + 33 3 847 0552 www.auberge-de-chavannes.com L’Orangerie 28 rue St. Louis-en-l’Ille T. + 33 4 633 9398 New York Per Se 10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019 T. +1 212 823 9335 www.perseny.com Alain Ducasse at Ardour Hotel St. Regis, 2 East 55th Street, New York, NY 10022 T. +1 212 753 4500 www.alain-ducasse.com The Box 189 Chrystie Street, New York, NY 10002 Nr Rivington Street, T. +1 212 982 9301 www.theboxnyc.com Barbuto 775 Washington Street T. 1 212 924 9700 www.barbuto.com Sur la Terre World Top Ten El Bulli, Spain The Fat Duck, UK Pierre Gagnaire, France French Laundry, USA Tetsuya, Australia Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse, France Can Fabes, Spain Gambero Rosso, Italy Per Se, USA Dom, Brazil

42

coming soon sur la terre

43

coming soon sur la terre

W Doha

Sur la Terre goes beyond the hype and behind-the-scenes of the eagerly anticipated W Hotel.

Scheduled to open for business in June 2008, the first W Hotel to open in the Middle East has been the subject of constant discussion and excited speculation for many months. Situated right across from the popular City Center mall, W Doha’s prime location means it is only a 15-minute drive from the airport and is right next to Doha’s beautiful Corniche, whilst the beach and watersports facilities of the diplomatic club and the challenging greens of the Doha Golf Club are just moments away.

Born out of the realisation that

“there are customers who seek a balance between style and substance”, the W brand, the fastest growing luxury brand in the world, is known for its high-energy interiors, lifestyle driven design and copious use of technology. W Hotels are where design and style meet fashion, music, entertainment and everything in between.

Their Whatever/Whenever service philosophy invites the most sophisticated business and leisure travellers to escape the mundane and become a part of all that is “now.” Travellers don’t have to

choose between stylish or efficient, cool or comfortable, convenient or unique, service or sizzle. W Hotels offers it all, uniting first class service and iconic design with an emotional connection that playfully flirts with guests’ senses.

W Hotels around the world are strikingly modern in design with custom-made furnishings and accessories that are refreshing, accessible and supremely comfortable. The unique look and feel of each hotel is influenced by the culture of the city, reflecting

44

coming soon sur la terre

current trends in art, fashion, music and architecture. Like all W hotels before it, W Doha will cater specifically to the tastes of the young at heart. However, it will be anything but a replica of one of the W properties in North America. “Starwood is out not only to bring the W to Qatar, but also to bring Qatar to the W,” affirmed Safak Guvenc, General Manager, W Doha Hotel & Residences. “Design, services and ambiance at the W Doha will all be very much influenced by local culture and tastes.”

Featuring 291 W innovative guest rooms & suites and 154 W Luxury serviced apartments, W Doha will tower 29 stories over the premium West Bay area of Doha in the new heart of the city. “W Doha will give guests something they have never seen before in the region,” stated Safak Guvenc confidently. “Apart from the de facto conveniences that every hotel offers, W Doha will also treat guests to interactive TV systems, home cinemas in the suites, voicemail service, digital safe deposit and 24-hour high speed internet access. But ‘the icing on the cake’ will be W’s trademark Whatever/Whenever® service – a concierge that will arrange for whatever a guest requests, from his favourite cigar to a chartered sailboat –

whenever he requests it, just as long as it’s legal!” Mr. Guvenc added.

The W Hotels experience began in December 1998 with the W New York at 49th Street and Lexington Avenue. An instant phenomenon, its success drove the development of more than a dozen new properties in chic destinations - including Los Angeles, San Francisco, Honolulu and New Orleans, in an unprecedented two-year span. In January of 2004, W Hotels’ parent company, Starwood Hotels & Resorts, Inc. purchased the stylish Bliss® Spas to enhance

the amenities of W Hotels Worldwide. W’s first Retreat & Spa, W Retreat & Spa – Maldives, opened in September of 2006 following a highly successful launch of the brand’s first residential property, W Dallas – Victory, in June of 2006.

W Hotels service commitment is to provide whatever a guest wants, whenever they want it (as long as it’s legal!). Guests can simply push a button on their room phone for instant access to 24-hour Whatever/Whenever concierge service. As might be expected, Whatever/Whenever

service has, at times, entered the realm of the sureal. Satisfied requests include bathtubs filled with chocolate, Mariachis in minutes, a private jet for 12 with in-flight entertainment from New York to Miami and arranging a guestroom showing of an untelevised U.S. basketball game in W Mexico City on Christmas Eve. The limits of Whatever/Whenever are set only by guests’ imaginations. The more expected uses include room service, laundry service, restaurant reservations and entertainment tickets, but it also includes dog walking,

45

coming soon sur la terre

restaurant Heartbeat in the first W New York, followed by Earth & Ocean at W Seattle and Icon at W New York – The Court. W Hotels’ signature restaurants are always introducing new dining options from fresh seasonal menus to wine tastings to personalized green market tours with the chef.

administrative needs and spa services.

The W Hotel guest room goes above and beyond with a precisely crafted merging of comfort and technology.

Custom-made furnishings, like luxurious beds with goose down comforters and 400 thread count sheets and amenities such as plush velour (in rooms) or microfibre (in suites) bathrobes and Bliss bath products, ensure that guests feel pampered during their stay.

W Hotel guest rooms are fully wired to be a virtual office, with

two telephones, featuring the latest cutting edge technology of high-speed laptop connectivity. Guests can also establish their own personal, secure email addresses while staying at W Hotels.

W Hotels are also equipping guestrooms with the most advanced in-room entertainment system in the hotel industry, including plasma LCD TVs, access to a large selection of first-run movies and video programs on demand, iPod cradles, a radio/CD player/alarm clock, and an extensive CD music library. Other extras

enjoyed by guests include plush velour bathrobes, stocked “munchie boxes,” unique amenities like a “Jet Lag” thermalsleeping eye mask, a W Intimacy kit, plus exclusive treats like Dylan’s candy and Voss water.

Most notably, every W Hotel presents a signature restaurant and a lounge area attracting not only the hotel guests but in-theknow local residents as well. W’s vision of the hotel environment is a Living Room where special moments can be celebrated.

Collaboration with renowned chefs led to the success of the

W Hotels The Store, W Hotels’ explosive retail element, attracts local trendsetters in New York, Chicago, San Diego, Seoul, Dallas and Mexico City, featuring a variety of unique products, with an emphasis on jewelry and fashion accessories, handbags, gadgets, ambient music and more. Its seasonal catalogue and sleek website also allow guests to purchase W signature bedding, furniture and in-store items without leaving home.

W Hotels has become the fastest growing luxury hotel brand in the world. Each hotel offers a unique mix of innovative design, comfort and cultural influences from fashion to music to art and everything in between and the W Doha is intent on living up to this impressive reputation. The fully equipped SWEAT gym, complete with professional trainers, will satisfy even the most dedicated fitness freaks. Those looking

46

coming soon sur la terre

47

coming soon sur la terre

purely to wind down could head to the BLISS® spa for a relaxing massage or chill out in the temperature controlled WET pool with its very own poolside bar.

Aggressive retail therapy at the W store by Plum might be the calling of others. Two fine concept restaurants, the Market and the Spice Market by world renowned Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten will pamper guests’ palates with local as well as international cuisines throughout the day, while the hotel’s two lounges will offer an opportunity to lighten up over a drink or two. For business travellers, the W will fulfil every whim even before you ask. With almost 1,000 square metres of meeting and event space, W Doha will be able to host business and social gatherings of up to 500 people. High speed WiFi internet access, plasma LCD screens and state of the art AV equipments will also be available for use at the click of a button.

In addition to its amazing facilities and outstanding reputation, W Hotels, like all Starwood brands, is proud to offer Starwood Preferred Guest, the leading rewards plan that has been recognized as the hotel industry’s most rewarding frequent travel program. With no blackout dates and no expiration of points, members can earn points and redeem awards at all Le Méridien

Hotels, Sheraton Hotels & Resorts, Westin Hotels & Resorts, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, the Luxury Collection, W Hotels, and Four Points by Sheraton properties, totaling over 825 hotels in 95 countries.

The future of W Hotels W Hotels is a global lifestyle brand with 21 properties in the most vibrant cities around the world.

Inspiring and indulging its guests with thoughtful, refreshing and stylish experiences, signature restaurants, bars and destination spas, W has become the fastest growing luxury hotel brand in the world. Currently, 21 W Hotels are open in some of the most intriguing destinations around the world, close to business districts, shopping, dining and nightlife. W’s first residential property, W DallasVictory, opened in June of 2006, and soon thereafter was named a Forbes Magazine “Top Business Hotel.” W Residences, offering the W lifestyle at home, have also been announced for Scottsdale (2008), Midtown Atlanta (2008), Fort Lauderdale (2008), Buckhead (2008), Hoboken (2008), Downtown Atlanta (2009), Downtown New York (2009), South Beach (2009), Phoenix (2009), Hollywood (2009), Philadelphia (2009), and Austin (2010). Internationally, W has announced plans for hotels in

Istanbul (2008), Doha (2008), Hong Kong (2008), St. Petersburg (2008), Athens (2008), Santiago (2008), Milan (2008), DubaiFestival City (2008), Shanghai (2009), Barcelona (2009), W Macao Studio City (2009), Guangzhou (2010), and DubaiThe Palm (2010). W’s first Retreat & Spa, W Maldives, opened in September of 2006 and in March of 2007, received the prestigious Travel + Leisure Design Award for Best Resort. W has plans to open Retreat & Spa hotels in Vieques (2008), Koh Samui (2008), and Verbier (2010), the latter of which will serve as W’s first ski retreat.

For more information, visit www.whotels.com.

Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. (NYSE: HOT) is one of the leading hotel and leisure companies in the world with approximately 890 properties in more than 100 countries and 145,000 employees at its owned and managed properties.

Starwood® Hotels is a fully integrated owner, operator and franchisor of hotels and resorts with the following internationally renowned brands: St. Regis®, The Luxury Collection®, W®, Westin®, Le Méridien®, Sheraton®, Four Points® by Sheraton, Aloft(SM), and Element(SM). Starwood Hotels also owns Starwood Vacation Ownership, Inc., one of the premier developers and operators

O

2

sur la terre

50

brand history sur la terre

The Golden Age of Couture Evening dress by Dior at Cirque d’Hiver, Paris, August 1955. Photograph by Richard Avedon Š 1955 The Richard Avedon Foundation - Courtesy The Richard Avedon Foundation

Great minds and seamstresses

51

brand history

brand history sur la terre

Models posing in Christian Dior collection © Loomis Dean/Getty Images

After the years of horror and deprivation of the Second World War, a new joie de vivre and desire for elegance took shape on both sides of the Channel. Under the creative impetus of Christian Dior, himself indebted to his Parisian elders, a decade celebrating refinement and glamour would leave a permanent mark on the history of haute couture. London?s V&A Museum, until 6 January 2008, looks back over this golden age of style.

Text: Yamina Benaï Photographs: image.net by Getty Images

1947 Christian Dior caused excitement and wonder among fashion editors by launching the New Look, a style that freed the feminine form from the stiff austerity of pre-war fashion. In times of rationing, however, full skirts made of luxurious fabrics also provoked protest. Women running, laughing, smoking and having fun: this was the portrait painted by photographs of the time. Fashion hit the streets, no

longer kept behind closed doors on the occasion of cocktail and dinner parties given by the aristocracy and the wealthy classes. The iconic magazines of the period – Vogue, Jardin des Modes, Harper’s Bazaar – featured faces and the (already) willowy figures of incredibly elegant creatures, somewhat haughty, even when smiling.

Women with well-lined purses ordered more than one copy of

52

brand history sur la terre

Fashion designer Christian Dior and staff at rehearsal of new collection showing © Loomis Dean//Time Life Pictures/Getty Images

Roger Vivier for Dior © V&A Images

each of their residences. Others could only imagine this unattainable woman’s dream and later, garments were copied and made up by local couturiers. This efferve-scence and spontaneity lasted a flamboyant decade. The Dior ba-llerina-skirted dresses, which emerged in Paris in the immediate post-war period, in some res-pects signalled the start of the celebrations. The great couturier’s contemporaries – Gabrielle Chanel, Madame Grès, Lanvin, Jean Dessés, Cristobal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain, Jacques Fath – participated brilliantly in this revival. This movement was soon fo-llowed by London, based on its own criteria. The British capital was home to tailoring and fabric experts, with such talents being

Woman sewing and tailoring the clothing presented in Pierre Balmain’s fashion show, February 1951 © Photo by Nina Leen/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

concentrated in the famous Savile Row and specific codes established in the field of court and debutante gowns. The key names here were Norman Hartnell, John Cavanagh, Charles Creed, Lachasse, Mattli, Digby Morton, Ronald Paterson, Victor Stiebel and even Worth of London.

Queen Elisabeth II and Princess Margaret were dressed by Hartnell on many occasions.

While Paris shone with an elegant

and ultra-refined style, London set about copying it without, however, having the requisite lightness and spontaneity. While London assigned itself to the functional, Paris did so to the magnificent.

In both capitals, couture was strictly regulated by two bodies: the Chambre syndicale de la Couture in Paris founded in 1929 and the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers

53

brand history sur la terre

Dior ‘Bar’ Suit, 1947. Photographed by Willy Maywald © Association Willy Maywald/ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2007

Pierre Balmain, early 1950’s. White silk organza, feathers and rhinestones © V&A Images

established in 1942. Unlike their French counterparts, British couture houses received no State subsidies and were only ever selffinanced. The number of Paris houses was also overpowering, with forty-seven in comparison to London’s twelve. In the decade to follow, however, numbers in Paris would fall, although there would always be more houses than in London. Many London couturiers set up in the City of Light. In the 30s, Cavanagh worked with Edouard Molyneux (Paris had seventy couture houses in 1937!)

and then with Pierre Balmain between 1947 and 1951 before launching his own label. A comparison of the French and British editions of Vogue from the end of the 40s to the end of the 50s gives a very clear idea of trends. It reveals that the French publication was clearly more informative and better presented and, above all, incontestably more glamorous. Charles Creed and Hardy Amies, however, took the art of tailoring in Savile Row to new heights with women’s town and country collections.

There was an obvious mutual affection and respect between the two capitals. Christian Dior, an Anglophile from the outset, had his suits made at Savile Row. During her 1957 official visit to Paris, the young Queen Elisabeth II wore “Fleurs des champs de France”, a spectacular dress designed by Hartnell.

Her entourage, however, were more deliberately Francophile. Diana Cooper, wife of the British Ambassador in Paris, wore a flower-print dress designed by Balmain, while Lady Gladwyn was

54

brand history sur la terre

Installation Shot © V&A Images

Model Barbara Goalen photographed by John French in London © V&A Images

Jacques Fath lace ball gown.

The road from the idea to its creation was a long one. After the design sketch left the courtier’s imagination, from the pattern to the fitting, a hierarchical band of highly qualified seamstresses brought the garment to life. There were several hundred of these employees, including the famous “petites mains” (seamstresses), in each house. These numbers were often bolstered by the use of embroiderers from outside workshops. Both insides and outsides,

sewn entirely by hand, shouted precision both on the garments themselves and the undergarments, which now played a fundamental role in creating body shapes and lines.

While corsets were no longer used, more or less all-enveloping girdles created perfect outlines.

City suits, cocktail dresses and eveningwear demon-strated the same tailoring and make-up precision. Dressing a high-society woman over a whole day now involved a succession of

garments suited to different social duties and private occasions, leading to a varied and extensive wardrobe.

The celebrated London museum paints a broad portrait of the era, bolstered by some one hundred garments, photographs from Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn and Richard Avedon, documentary films and also bills of sale or letters that even more vividly bring the era to life. The exhibition also demonstrates the wealth of

Golden Age of Couture Catalogue Cover V&A. Publications and Illustration created for the V&A by David Downton © David Downton

“The Golden Age of Couture : Paris and London 1947-1957”, runs until 6 January 2008 at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, +44(0)20 7942 2000, www.vam.ac.uk, the exhibition comes with a catalogue, curated by Claire Wilcox, the Museum’s Textiles and Fashion curator.

55

brand history sur la terre

Model Barbara Goalen photographed

by John French © V&A Images

resources of the V&A. More than 95% of the exhibited garments come from the Museum’s reserve collections, which are rarely on show to the general public. To complete the exhibition, the Museum purchased a number of legendary garments: a 1957 Givenchy blue cape identical to the one worn by Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face, a 1950 Jacques Griffe evening gown and even a 1955 Givenchy black dress suit worn by Leslie Caron. The most incredible find, however, is a bright red version of the Zémire designed by Dior in 1955,

consisting of a full-length skirt, bodice and long jacket, previously known to experts only through photos. House archives indicated that it was presented to Princess Margaret in 1954 at Blenheim Palace. No original (pale grey silk satin with mink trim on cuffs) or other version, however, seemed to have survived, until 2006, when it was accidentally discovered in a cellar near the Seine.

Dior’s Zemire dress after conservation. Richard Davis © V&A Images

Although many cultural and financial factors have irremediably changed the face of couture, it remains emblematic of extraordinary national talents and a reflection of a still dream-like beauty. In this sense, couture is quite simply immortal.

56

brand history sur la terre

Montblanc building in Hamburg

57

brand history

brand history sur la terre

Catalogue of the Simplo Filler Pen Company

Rouge et Noir model

It is just a few months since Montblanc marked its centenary, celebrating dec

and innovation.

From its origins as a simple manufacturer of fountain pens in 1

Montblanc has developed into one of the leading symbols of luxury. Owned sinc

the Richemont Group, the company has continued to grow and branch out into ne

sectors. Today Montblanc has 2,400 employees, 9,000 points of sale and 360 st th century... countries. Flashback to one of the first joint ventures of the XX company to exploit this new method of writing. The company was initially called the Simplo Filler Pen Company.

A XXth century in turmoil In the beginning there were three men : stationer Claus Johannes Voss, banker Alfred Nehemias and engineer August Eberstein, all Germans. What did they have in common? Their interest in the recent invention of the fountain pen. Quite simply, the new century’s spirit of creative emulation inspired the three men to form a

The first model registered was the fountain pen from the Rouge et Noir collection in honour of French novelist Stendhal. A true small-scale technical revolution, this ebonite model became a registered brand.

For some fifteen years, engineers worked hard on improving the fountain pen, gradually turning it into the emblematic model we are familiar with today. It was in 1913

that the white star, representing the six Mont Blanc glaciers, first embellished the pen cap. Starting out as a simple decoration, this sixpointed star became the symbol of the brand, which very quickly went international, as branches opened up all over Europe.

The launch of the legendary MeisterstĂźck in 1924 propelled Montblanc on to the international stage. A true combination of craftsmanship, expertise and technology, this fountain pen is still the most famous in the world. Each pen is subjected to more than a

Text George de Matteis Photos All rights reserved

58

brand history sur la terre

Meisterstück “149” fountain pen

Legendary ”Meisterstück” model

Fountain pens no longer enough

Success and development Buoyed by its success and reputation, Montblanc naturally started to cast its eye over related sectors such as leather goods and accessories, without forgetting the fountain pens which had made it the brand it was.

After the Second World War, Montblanc decided to launch a few younger, more design-led collections, breathing new life into a business which had slowed as a result of the international conflict.

Alongside the Meisterstück, the “60 Line” quickly became a best seller. Not content with being a synonym for success, Montblanc became a trendsetter.

In recent years, Montblanc has reached a major turning point in its history, launching new products on to the global market. After developing leather accessories, in 1996 the brand launched its first jewellery and watch collection… It took part in the Salon de la Haute Horlogerie (International Exhibition

”Royal” fountain pen in black diamonds

hundred processes! Even the rasp of the pen on the paper, recognized only by the most experienced employees, is tested. At the end of the 1920s, one advertising campaign followed another and success was assur-ed…

Montblanc was a well-known name in over 60 countries.

The brand continued to foster its links with Europe’s highest peak, using every possible means to make this image its own. After engraving “4810” on all its fountain pens in reference to its height at the time, the company finally took the name Montblanc in 1934. They saw in the immortal clouds over the peak a reminder that their brand too was immortal.

Excellence, refinement, technical skill... all characteristics which enabled the brand to guarantee its pens for life. With no real competitors on the horizon, Montblanc cemented its image as number 1 in the sector.

Montblanc and total luxury In 1992, Montblanc produced an astonishing piece, the “Royal”, fully set with 4,810 diamonds. Naturally it is in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s most expensive pen : US$ 125,000

59

brand history sur la terre

Montblanc factory in Locle

Montblanc TimeWalker Automatic Chronograph

Montblanc Ministar Ladies’ Watches in white gold and diamonds Leather goods 2007, ”Royal Purple & Rose” line

of Fine Watchmaking) in Geneva in 1997, where success proved instantaneous. The creation of Montblanc Montres in Locle, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, added credibility and expertise to the models which 10 years later are an integral part of the luxury watch landscape. In the jewellery sector, Montblanc has developed both its own symbols and set new trends. Today, these collections are on sale all over the world and are represented each year by

charming, carefully selected ambassadors. Following in the footsteps of Welsh singer Katherine Jenkins and American star Nicolas Cage, Hélène Grimaud is now the face of Montblanc. It might have been a daring gamble at the outset, but Montblanc has made a total success of its repositioning, with watches and jewellery accounting for more than 40% of its current turnover. However, the hundredyear-old firm has not forgotten its writing implements. For the new

millennium it decided to launch its first major collection after the Meisterstück… Bohème, which immediately captivated all Montblanc fans. This was followed a few years later by the StarWalker line.

Star earrings

60

brand history sur la terre

Philippe Huart ”White Star”, 2006

“May I help you Mr Adenauer ?”

(John Fitzgerald Kennedy to Conrad Adenauer in 1963) All with a sprinkling of marketing Montblanc even played a part in history when in 1963, J.F. Kennedy offered his Meisterstück to Conrad Adenauer with the words : ”May I help you Mr Adenauer?”. The Montblanc pen became the signing implement of choice for major events, a “power pen” as they say on Wall Street. Many writers would never be without theirs and it is considered good form to have the cap, recognizable among thousands, clipped visibly on to one’s jacket pocket. This symbolizes membership of a powerful elite and is a popular practice, especially in Japan!

Montblanc is fully committed to writing, culture and the campaign against illiteracy. Working in partnership with Unicef on the global “Sign up for the Right to Write” campaign, it organized an exhibition in which 149 celebrities wrote a declaration starting with the words “I like writing because….” using a Meisterstück 149. These valuable documents

were auction-ed and earned over US$ 840,000 for the organization.

Every year, Montblanc is involved in cultural projects and awards prizes in various sectors (cinema, music, art, cultural sponsorship, etc.). Every year, as part of “The Montblanc Young Artist World Patronage”, Montblanc organizes exhibitions where the emphasis is very much on young artists.

Montblanc honoured The Meisterstück has won a place in the permanent collections of New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MOMA), where visitors can admire the model behind the brand legend.

James Bond fans will surely remember that in The Man with the Golden Gun, Roger Moore kills the evil monster played

by Christopher Lee with a solid gold 149.

Hélène Grimaud, 2007 ambassador

61

brand history sur la terre

Today, Montblanc is one of Europe’s leaders in expert craftsmanship For their centenary, Van Cleef & Arpels and Montblanc created the “Mystery Masterpiece”

Alongside this, Montblanc had the brilliant idea of creating limited editions. These events are now eagerly anticipated every year and greatly enjoyed by collectors.

Whether it is the series “Writers” in tribute to the literary greats, the series “Art Patronage” or themed editions such as the one for Greta Garbo, using Maison Lalique, these models are true works of art whose masterpiece is indisputably the joint tribute by Montblanc and Van Cleef & Arpels in celebration of their centenary… a unique piece entitled “Mystery Masterpiece”.

Montblanc frequently collaborates with artists or designers to produce unique models, and these recently included Andrée Putman, Helmut Jahn and Tom Sachs, who designed three stylized boxes.

Montblanc decided to mark its anniversary by presenting a world first... a 43-facet star-shaped diamond which took eight years to create. It is the first time that a brand has had a diamond fashioned in the shape of its logo.

Although over the course of a century Montblanc built its image and reputation on a very specific article, the fountain pen, and in particular the Meisterstück, in the second half of the century, by combining tradition and perfectionism, the brand gained a foothold in other markets, adding to its range of luxury products collections of jewellery, watches, leather goods, spectacles and perfumes, to name but a few. Diversification has become the brand’s watchword, but the Montblanc spirit will never be lost or distorted as a result. Writing implements remain the pillars of the company.

Like the brand itself, they are now historic objects which are passed on from one generation to the next. ●

Tribute to Mozart, 2003

Box styled by Andrée Putman

Montblanc centenary diamond

62

design

sur la terre

Julius Shulman, the master [Case Study House No. 22 (Los Angeles, Calif.)], 1960 – Koenig, Pierre and Shulman Julius – Medium : Transparency - Dimensions : 13x10cm

Text: Felipa de Almeida

At 97 years of age, Julius Shulman is certainly the most import photographerto have figured in Modern Architecture. His work

Photographs: © Getty Research Institute

played a crucial role in the building of the world-wide image o California during the 50s and 60s.

63

design

design

sur la terre

[Kaufmann House (Palm Springs, Calif.) : exterior], 1947 - Neutra, Richard Joseph (1892-1970) and Shulman, Julius – Medium : Gelatin silver print

“For 70 years, photographing architecture has been the joy of my life!”

The work of the most talented architects passed before his viewfinder: Frank Lloyd Wright, Mies van der Rohe, Charles and Ray Eames, Philip Johnson, Pierre Koenig, Louis Kahn, John Lautner, Eero Saarinen and Richard Neutra.

In fact, it was his meeting with the latter, in 1936, that would launch the photographer’s career. His genius of composition and his technical precision earned him

[Singleton House (Los Angeles, Calif.)], 1960 – Neutra, Richard Joseph (1892-1970) and Shulman, Julius – Medium : Gelatin silver print - Dimensions : 25x21cm

the reputation of master of the genre.

Julius Shulman criss-crossed the United States and travelled to Mexico, Uruguay, Norway, Israel and Hong Kong, in pursuit of the jewels of modern architecture and to fulfil the many demands of his clients.

Notably, Julius Shulman photographed many of the houses featured in the Case

64

design

sur la terre

Duffield’s Lincoln-Mercury Showroom, Long Beach, CA, 1963, 1963 – Killingsworth, Brady and Smith and Shulman, Julius – Medium : Photograph – Dimensions : 26x21cm

programme which was launched in 1945 by John Entenza from the “Arts & Architecture” magazine. This programme invited different architects to build houses for average American families with average disposable income. At the end of the Second World War building work had to be carried out in spite of the economic constraints and the lack of materials. Entenza initially engaged eight architects, among them Neutra, Eames and Saarinen. Thanks to this project, 39 houses were built. Developed right up until 1966 in Southern California, these houses had to be easily reproduced in large numbers, and the architects had to take into account changes in the materials and the industrial construction techniques developed during the war.

“My interpretation of architecture concentrates on function and design”.

The project however did not succeed in engaging with the public it was aimed at, it appealed instead to a more elitist population which was open to new ideas. Never-theless it contributed significantly to the development of the Modern Movement of architecture in America.

Ever since he “retired” in 1989, Julius Shulman seems to be busier than ever. A prolific writer, consultant, lecturer, publications manager, at 97 Julius Shulman is

still passionate about the adventure he embarked on 70 years ago.

In 2005, the Getty Research Institute of Los Angeles acquired the complete archive of the artist, represented by 260,000 exposures, negatives and colour slides.

The Institute is currently presenting an exhibition at the Los Angeles Public Library, until 20 January 2008, entitled “The Los Angeles of Julius Shulman",

65

design

sur la terre

[Case Study House No. 21 (Los Angeles, Calif.)], 1958 – Koenig, Pierre and Shulman Julius – Medium : Gelatin silver print Dimensions : 21x26cm

[Case Study House No. 22 (Los Angeles, Calif.) : exterior view under roof overhang], 1960 – Koenig, Pierre and Shulman Julius – Medium : Gelatin silver - Dimensions : 21x26cm

66

design

sur la terre

[Kaufmann House (Palm Springs, Calif.)], 1947 - Neutra, Richard Joseph (1892-1970) and Shulman, Julius – Medium : Negative – Dimensions : 10x13cm

Sur La Terre was lucky to be able to interview Julius Shulman.

Sur La Terre: You stopped working as a photographer in 1989. What do you regret and what do you not regret at all?

Julius Shulman: I don’t regret anything.

For 70 years, photographing architecture has been the joy of my life!

S.L.T: Although you were an architectural photographer, some of your photographs include people and are reminiscent of cinema sets. Were you inspired by the cinema?

J.S: The cinema did not influence in any way my use of people in my photographs. That has always been my way of inhabiting scenes, houses and buildings.

S.L.T: You have worked very closely with the architect Richard Neutra whose concept of a house is a house which is almost empty. What is yours?

J.S: My interpretation of architecture concentrates on function and the rationale of the design. Neutra’s concept of an “empty house” seems a selfish one to me. He concentrated on the architecture and not on the daily life of his clients.

S.L.T: What do you think of contemporary architecture? Are there any buildings or houses that you would have loved to photograph?

J.S: I don’t feel any need to increase the quantity of my work, I’ve done enough to fill 10 lives.

S.L.T: Have you tried digital photography?

J.S: I am a photographer who uses professional material. Digital photography has its place but it cannot provide me with the visual sharpness I need.

S.L.T: What do you think of the notion of a museum dedicated to architectural photography? What architect would you invite to design it?

[Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum (New York, N.Y.)], 1959 – Shulman, Julius and Wright, Frank Lloyd (1867-1959) - Medium : Gelatin silver print - Dimensions : 26x21cm

67

design

sur la terre

Chuey Residence, Los Angeles, 1956, 1960 - Neutra, Richard Joseph (1892-1970) and Shulman, Julius – Medium : Black and white negative – Dimensions : 10x13cm

J.S: A museum of architectural photography – what a marvellous idea! I could create it but not be the architect of it.

S.L.T: With all your experience and the knowledge you have acquired during your long career, what advice would you give to young architectural photographers?

J.S: Young photographers should read my books and my essays. I would advise them to study a scene, not through their viewfinder, but with the naked eye! One must learn to move in a space without taking a preconceived view.

Interpretation must always be subjective.

Julius Shulman was born in Brooklyn in 1910, and now lives and works in Los Angeles. His work is shown at several international galleries, notably the Yancey Richardson Gallery of New York.

“One must learn to move in a space without taking a preconceived view”.

In 2005, the “Julius Shulman, Modernity and the Metropolis Exhibition” at the J. Paul Getty Museum of Los Angeles celebrated his 95th birthday and paid homage to his whole life’s work.

In 1998 Julius Shulman received a prize for his whole body of work from the International Center of Photography of New York and, in 1969, he was awarded the Gold Medal from the American Institute of Architecture. ●

For more information on the work of Julius Shulman: www.yanceyrichardson.com Further reading: A Constructed View : The Architectural Photography of Julius Shulman, Rizzoli, Joseph Rosa (Author); Esther Mccoy; & Julius Shulman (Photographs).

Photographing Architecture and Interiors, Julius Shulman (Author), Richard Neutra (Introduction).

Julius Shulman: Architectural Photography, Peter Gossel (Editor); & Julius Schulman (Photographs), Taschen, 1998.

Julius Shulman: Modernism Rediscovered, Julius Shulman, Taschen.

2007

special lifestyle

Falcon Š Dassault Aviation - P.Bowen

68

sur la terre

Business aviation, already very widespread across the Atlantic, has for severa years now seen an unprecedented rise in the skies over Europe. Please fasten your seat belts for a little overview of what is done best in this field.

Text Franco Genovese

Photographs rights reserved

69

special lifestyle

special lifestyle sur la terre

The private aviation sector has profited from the enhanced economic condition

few years and it has never been in a more healthy state. It?s a fact that now

and traditional companies are succumbing to security constraints, this mode o

has what it takes to attract business people searching for time and productiv

advantages are indeed numerous : flexible timetables, boarding facilities, an the pleasure of a flight that is second to none. Faced with this new demand,

construction companies in the market have embarked on a complete update of th

product range. Safer and faster than ever before, these new models also offer crafted interiors, at the level of both comfort and design.

Bombardier Learjet 60 XR Š Bombardier

From the Canadian aircraft manufacturer Bombardier, two new aeroplanes have recently taken centre stage. First, the Learjet 60XR, which had its inaugural voyage in April 2006. An intermediate class jet, it can take up to nine passengers who will benefit from a total freedom to spread themselves out thanks to its roomy cabin and high ceiling.

The thoroughbred outlines of the jet conjure up in the mind of the onlooker all the power of the Pratt & Whitney twin engines which enable it to reach a cruising speed of 863 km/h over an operating range of 4,539 km. For those who are used to travelling from one continent to another, Bombardier launched its Global Express XRS in 2005.

Capable of carrying up to 19

Bombardier Global Express XRS Š Bombardier

Bombardier Learjet 60 XR Š Bombardier

passengers, this aircraft is distinguished above all by an exceptional autonomy of 11,390 km. It can connect Rome to Los Angeles or Moscow to Tokyo, and it does this without a stopover. Its vast interior mixes comfort and luxury in the style of a suite in a large hotel.

70

special lifestyle sur la terre

Citation Mustang © Cessna Aircraft

With the market launch of its Citation Mustang in 2006, Cessna Aircraft has been one of the first aircraft construction companies to dip into the promising sector of Very Light Jet (VLJ). With a selling price ranging between 1 and 3 million dollars, these small sized jets are currently doing well on the market. The cabin of the Citation Mustang can

accommodate up to 4 people and has broad panoramic port-holes offering to passengers an unobstructed view during the flight. Like all other VLJs, it has the advantage of being able to fly without the obligatory presence of a co-pilot. With a price tag of 2.5 million dollars, this jet has a beautiful future ahead.

Citation Mustang © Cessna Aircraft

The American aircraft construction company, Eclipse Aviation, has also targeted the VLJ sector with the market launch of its Eclipse 500. For this first incursion into the private aviation market, the American start-up company has pulled off a remarkable coup by launching the most reasonably priced aircraft in this category with a price tag of 1.6 million dollars, unheard of for a private jet. Such positioning appears to be profitable, as the company has announced more than 2,000 orders, and this just one year after the launch of the Eclipse 500.

Eclipse 500 © Eclipse Aviation

71

special lifestyle sur la terre

Phenom 100 © Embraer

Phenom 100 © Embraer

Phenom 100 © Embraer

The Brazilian company, Embraer, is currently completely overhauling its range. In the biggest carrier sector, this aeronautical construction company has announced the arrival of its Lineage 1000 for mid-2008.

Equipped with a luxurious cabin space of 115 m3, this is truly a flying palace, which can easily transport up to 19 people. The interior of the aircraft is composed of 5 distinct compartments which make it possible to arrange various dedicated spaces, the whole being obviously flexible according to clients’ needs. With an operating range of 7,778 km, this

aircraft can connect London to New York or even Dubai in a single f l i g h t .

The launch price of this aircraft is close to 40 million dollars. In common with the other players in t h i s industry, Embraer also envisages conquering the market of “pocket” jets with the anticipated roll-out of its Phenom 100 et 300. Able to accommodate up to 6 and 9 passengers respectively, the two aircraft will profit from a smart and sleek interior designed by BMW. To have the chance to fly on board one of these exceptional birds, you will have to spend 2.8 million dollars for Phenom 100 and some 6.6

72

special lifestyle sur la terre

HA-420 HondaJet Š Honda

HA-420 HondaJet Š Honda

The Japanese construction company Honda, better known for its car manufacturing, caused some surprise in this domain when it announced that it wished to enter the elite market of private aviation.

From the outset, the result is, at the end of the day, extremely appealing with the HA-420 HondaJet which should enter production by 2010.

With a new design concept, it differentiates itself clearly from its competitors with the placing of its two turbojets just above the wings.

This unique design allows more space in the cabin (up to 7 passengers) and reinforces the general aerodynamism of the aircraft. This newcomer on the scene also boasts a resolutely

modern interior where white upholstery blends with chrome fittings, the whole bathed in a soft bluish light. A true fireball car of the skies, it can pride itself on being the fastest aircraft of its category with a top cruising speed of 778 km/h.

73

special lifestyle sur la terre

Falcon 7X © Dassault Aviation

Falcon 7X © Dassault Aviation - Alex Paringaux

Falcon 7X © Dassault Aviation - E. de Malglaive

It’s impossible to refer to private jets without mentioning the Falcon range of the manufacturer Dassault Aviation. Leader in the field of top-of-the-range aircraft, the French aircraft manufacturer held everyone’s attention at the last Paris Air Show by orchestrating there the first a p p e a r a n c e of its Falcon 7X. This very long range carrier has in fact several characteristics that make it unique in the world. In addition to the fact that it was entirely

conceived and drawn on computer software, it is the first business aircraft to use electrical flight commands, which make it particularly manoeuvrable and reliable. According to the desired configuration of the interior, this new darling of the aeronautical showrooms can transport up to 18 passengers in an environment which mixes leather, precious wood and hi-tech installations. If you’re interested, it will cost you 42 million dollars and a little patience, the order book being already nearly filled.

74

special lifestyle sur la terre

© Lufthansa Technik

150 million.

If some people enthuse about the arrival onto the market of “affordable” VLJs, another section of the buying public, the richest section, is, on the other hand, creating more and more of a demand for very large format aircraft. Besides, some do not hesitate any more to procure immense carriers initially destined for civil aviation for their own private jets. This was, for example, the case recently of the billionaire Joseph Lau who placed an order for a Boeing 787 which cost more than US$ 150 million. At the last Paris air show, it was an Airbus A380 which was snapped up by an anonymous buyer. The interior conversion of these aircraft is more often than not made to measure according to the desires and needs of the happy owners.

Disco, swimming-pool, garage, cinema… Sky is the limit, as we say! Amongst the companies which specialise in converting this type of aircraft, Lufthansa Technik deserves a special mention because it has carried out a number of interior refits often considered to be daring. As for the Edése Doret Industrial Design company, this talented team of designers is currently working on an interior conversion over two storeys of an A380. The beauty of their creation also matches its price, since the refit of this future flying palace will cost nearly US$

Airbus A380 © Edése Doret Industrial Design

Boeing 787 © Boeing

75

special lifestyle sur la terre

A109S Grand - Versace © AgustaWestland

Besides jets, the civil helicopter sector is also now becoming more and more valued. Though helicopters do not possess the same speed or range, nevertheless, they have other advantages, like the appreciable one of being able to dispense with an airplane runway. For

Eurocopter, the world’s leading helicopter manufacturer, two models are currently particularly valued by their business clients.

These are the Dauphin EC155 and the Super Puma EC225 which propose to carry out VIP interior conversions comparable to those available to the majority

of jets. The manufacturer AgustaWestland, for its part, recently had tongues wagging when it concluded a deal with the Versace fashion house to carry out the refit of the interior of its light twin-engine, the A109S Grand. The work was done entirely by hand, and combines

Super Puma EC225 © Eurocopter

black and white leather with Greek-inspired motifs in the backdrops. A genuine “haute couture” helicopter which can be enhanced with numerous optional add-ons from high definition flat screens to satellite telephones.

76

fashion

sur la terre

TechnoChic Production : Julie Cerf Photography : Ian Abela @ Visionairs In Art www.ianabela.com Models : Elena Shulnikova @ Metropolitan Paris & Bernhard Schabernig @ New Madison Make-up : Odile Subra @ Sybille Kleber Hair : Raynald Bernard @ Mod’s Hair, with the new Elixir of K.Pilotrac T.

77

fashion

sur la terre

fashion

Black satin blouse with balloon sleeves LANVIN High-waisted, asymmetric skirt in black and navy blue silk BRIONI Necklace with bib in gold and silver KARRY’O Anti-slip ankle boots made of kid and patent leather DIEGO DOLCINI Russian fur hat in black rabbit encrusted with diamonds MARNI

78

fashion

sur la terre

Striped poplin shirt BOTTEGA VENETA Navy blue cashmere v-necked pullover YVES SAINT LAURENT Scarf LANVIN Wide trousers in beige wool YVES SAINT LAURENT

79

fashion

sur la terre

Grey wool jacket with fur DIOR Long maroon T-shirt ERNEST Leather cap DIOR

80

fashion

sur la terre

Grey mottled pullover, diamond encrusted with oversize sleeves YVES SAINT LAURENT Black and white sleeveless down jacket CHANEL Large black patent leather belt GVB Wide black cotton trousers VIKTOR & ROLF

81

fashion

sur la terre

Grey wool oversize waistcoat SONIA RYKIEL Top in unbleached muslin embroidered with mother of pearl drops SONIA RYKIEL Cruise Narrow, high-waisted trousers in black satin CHANEL Multi-strapped pumps in navy blue patent leather LANVIN Bracelets with pink and red clasps LANVIN Bracelets made of wood and steel wire BOTTEGA VENETA Black bracelet with large pearls DIOR Black leather saddle bag with chain strap CHANEL

82

fashion

sur la terre

Long grey wool waistcoat Khaki cotton shirt Cravat scarf in plum silk Grey flannel trousers Blue patent leather shoes All by LANVIN

83

fashion

sur la terre

Grey wool oversized tunic YVES SAINT LAURENT Plum mesh leggings AMERICAN APPAREL Gilded saltire KARRY’O Lace-up ankle boots in maroon kid DIOR Maroon patent leather purse MARNI

84

fashion

sur la terre

Grey poplin shirt Green cotton T-shirt Grey silk jacket Silk tie All by LANVIN Narrow wool trousers YVES SAINT LAURENT Black leather shoes YVES SAINT LAURENT

85

fashion

sur la terre

Grey silk wrap tunic with hood MARNI Grey silk jumpsuit YVES SAINT LAURENT Embossed leather ankle boots SONIA RYKIEL Gilded cuff bracelet KARRY’O Studded gold ring DIOR

86

fashion

sur la terre

Cotton poplin shirt SONIA RYKIEL Navy blue waistcoat in fine mesh SONIA RYKIEL Wide flannel trousers YVES SAINT LAURENT Plum cashmere scarf LANVIN Watch GRAHAM London

87

fashion

sur la terre

High-waisted white denim bermudas YVES SAINT LAURENT Long sleeved top in natural satin LANVIN Oversized zipped waistcoat in natural wool DIOR Slip sole pumps in green python DIOR Large maroon leather belt CHANEL Pendants from CHANEL

90

special edition sur la terre

How to choose your diamonds

Every diamond is immensely old, formed long before dinosaurs roamed the earth. The youngest diamond is 900 million years old, and the oldest is 3.2 billion years old. Every diamond is unique; no two are alike. The very word 'diamond' comes from the Greek term ‘adamas’ meaning unconquerable. Diamonds exist in many colours, the rarest of all being red. Diamonds were first mined in India more than 2800 years ago. Each stone loses, on average, more than half its original weight during cutting and polishing. The word 'carat' comes from the carob tree whose seed was used as the standard of weighing precious stones. Less than 5% of all the diamonds made into jewellery are larger than one carat.

Purchasing a piece of diamond jewellery is an exhilarating and unique experience. Each diamond is like a snowflake or fingerprint, distinctly different from one another; thus it is important to be educated prior to making your decision. A book could be written on determining the diamond quality, and many have been. Yet, once you decide to hit the stores and buy the stone, whether for an engagement ring, earrings, tennis bracelets or other diamond jewellery, the most important thing to remember is the “4 C’s” – clarity, colour, cut, and carat.

91

special edition sur la terre

drill a tiny hole into a diamond and the black of the imperfection is then removed. The second treatment is fracture filling. This method is not permanent and therefore not recommended. All clarity treated diamonds must be disclosed as such prior to sale.

Colour

Clarity The clarity of a diamond is determined by its clearness or purity, which depends on the number of internal and external imperfections of the gem. These are inclusions and blemishes (tiny white points, dark dots or feathery cracks within the body of the gem) that occur during the formation process. They are visible with a 10x power microscope but can block the light passing through the diamond. So the fewer the inclusions, the more beautiful and valuable the diamond is. According to the standard GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) scale, the clarity grades in diamonds are rated from Flawless to Imperfect.

The two methods used to enhance the clarity grade given to a diamond are laser drilling and fracture filling. Laser drilling is the process in which a laser is used to

Diamonds are found in almost every colour of the rainbow, but white-coloured diamonds remain most popular. Because a colourless diamond, like a clear window, allows more light to pass through it than a coloured diamond, colourless diamonds emit more sparkle and fire. The formation process of a diamond ensures that only a few, rare diamonds are truly colourless. Thus, the whiter a diamond is in colour, the greater is its value. The body colour in white diamonds is rated by the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow). Make sure to ask your jeweller to show you a variety of colour grades next to one another to help you determine your colour preference.

It is possible to influence the colour by irradiation treatment followed by heat treatment. This method is not recommended for two reasons – the first is the risk involved with exposure to irradiated objects, and the second is the risk of colour change over time. All colour treated diamonds must be disclosed as such prior to sale.

92

special edition sur la terre

it reflects from one side to the other before reflecting back out of the diamond through the table and to the observer's eye. This light is the brilliance mentioned, and it's this flashing, fiery effect that makes diamonds so mesmerizing. In a poorly cut diamond, the light that enters through the table reaches the facets and then “leaks” out from the sides or bottom of the diamond rather than reflecting back to the eye. Less light reflected back to the eye means less brilliance. Because cut is so important, several grading methods have been developed to help consumers determine the cut of a particular diamond.

In general, these grades are: Ideal, Premium, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

Carat

Cu t First, don't confuse diamond "cut" with "shape". Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the diamond (such as round, emerald, or pear). When a diamond jeweller (or a diamond certificate) says "cut", that's a reference to the diamond's reflective qualities, not the shape (or at least it should be – some jewellers don't appear to know the difference between "cut" and "shape").

Diamond cut is the only one of the four C’s that is influenced by the human hand, and perhaps is the most important of the four C’s, so it is important to understand how this quality affects the properties and values of a diamond. When a diamond is well-cut, light enters through the table and travels to the pavilion where

Carat is often confused with size even though it is actually a measure of weight.

Sometimes, you might think a larger diamond appears more brilliant than a smaller one. This is because light must travel a greater distance through a larger diamond. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams. One carat can also be divided into 100 ‘points’. A 75-carat diamond is the same as a 75-point or a 3/4 carat diamond. A 1-carat diamond costs exactly twice the price of a 1/2 carat diamond, right? Wrong! Since larger diamonds are found less frequently, a 1-carat diamond will cost much more than twice as much as a 1/2 carat diamond, assuming colour, clarity and cut remain constant. Cut and mounting can make a diamond appear larger (or smaller) than its actual weight. So shop around and talk to your jeweller to find the right diamond and setting to optimize the beauty of your stone.

It important for you to know the 4 C’s as they are used throughout the world to classify the rarity of diamonds. Diamonds with the combination of the highest 4C ratings are more rare and, consequently, more expensive. Light is the element that ignites a diamond’s brilliance and fire, and its interplay with each of the 4 C’s will help explain why one diamond can appear even more beautiful than another.

The good news is, you don’t need to buy the rarest diamond to find one whose beauty speaks to you!

94

special edition sur la terre

INTERVIEW WITH

PHILIPPE MCGARRY Better known as ‘Mr De Beers’, Philippe McGarry is Director of the world renowed diamond experts De Beers in the Middle East. Working within Salam International, who has the exclusive franchise for De Beers, McGarry is overseeing the expansion of the brand across the region. A Frenchman with a British father, Swiss wife and four children, McGarry has lived in the Middle East for over a decade.

What do you do to have earned the nickname ‘Mr De Beers’?

My role is to create the De Beers network in the Middle East, by creating the team, finding and opening stores and promoting the brand. I also handle a few VVIP customers who need extra special attention.

How is the De Beers network currently looking in the region?

We started in the Middle East two years ago with our first store in the Mall of the Emirates. We now have three stores in Dubai, are currently building Jeddah, Riyadh, Bahrain and Istanbul and hope to open in Doha and Kuwait next year.

Presumably there are some big spenders in the Gulf?

Our clients are not only from this region. Our top two customers in Dubai are from Belgium and the Ukraine. People from all over the world travel to Dubai and have the time to shop. And when they want to buy diamonds, they see De Beers and know they are going to get the right price for the right product. It’s reassuring.

How do you see yourselves within the luxury market in the Middle East?

There are few brands which are very apart, that can’t be compared directly to others. De Beers is one of them, and Hermès

95

special edition sur la terre

is another. You cannot say who is the competitor to Hermès. De Beers deals exclusively with diamond jewellery. We are the reference in that business.

How do you explain the incredible b r an d r e co g n it io n De B ee r s boasts?

De Beers was created in the 1850s in South Africa and had the first diamond mine there, so it’s been the dominant player in mining and trading diamonds for 160 years. De Beers has been supplying jewellers all over the world for centuries so that has created fantastic awareness.

Who is your average customer?

We basically have two types of clientele. Those who buy something between $1-20,000. It could either be an engagement ring or a gift, but it’s more than a piece of stone. There’s emotion in it. For these clients the quality of the stone is less important. It has to please. At the other end people are spending half a million dollars and more. It’s like buying an asset or investment, like an apartment.

I s t h er e a h u g e d if f er e n ce between Arab and European taste in diamond jewellery?

It’s a question of generation.

There is a big change from their parents who preferred chunkier pieces. A lot of young women aged 20-35 have studied, travelled extensively throughout the world, read international magazines, watched international television and their taste is very standard international.

Are your diamonds conflict-free?

Yes, absolutely. De Beers is the company who started up the Kimberley process, which certifies the source of diamonds.

What advice would you give to someone who is thinking about buying a diamond?

Firstly you need to define why you want to buy the diamond. Is it a token of love or is it an investment? If it’s for Valentines Day for example, you might want to buy a heart-shaped diamond.

The heart-shape is what’s important, less so than the quality of the diamond. If it’s for an investment you’ll be looking for the round shape of a better quality, because that will sustain, there’s no fashion in this type of diamond.

Secondly it is extremely difficult to compare diamonds. It’s like buying a second-hand car. Some people take the risk of buying off the street, whilst others go to the dealer where they get insurance, service and the track record. They do pay more for it but they are 100 percent sure what they get.

Could you explain the De Beers diamond beauty scan?

It’s a service we provide for clientele that looks at the Four C’s (cut, colour, carat, clarity) and shows the reflection of light in the diamond. A diamond has lots of angles and cut panels. If these panels are aligned properly then the light goes onto the diamond, back out and sparkles. If they are wrongly inclined, by 1 or 2 degrees, then the light goes down or inside and the sparkle will be less brilliant. De Beers makes sure the cut of all our diamonds is perfect so that the sparkle is very intense.

Do diamonds work best with silver or gold?

Today 80-90% of the jewellery we sell worldwide is with white gold or platinum. Silver is a bit too fragile. We mainly use platinum as

it is extremely solid.

Is there a follow-up service once pe op le ha ve bought your diamonds?

Yes. Our clients can have their jewellery cleaned and the setting checked. In the beginning of the century in Paris and London rich people left their high jewellery with the brand, such as Cartier. They would send a driver to collect it on the evening they needed it and on the following morning it would go back to the jeweller to be cleaned so it was perfect for the next outing.

How would you advise people to look after their diamonds?

I’m surprised by the number of people who have had an engagement ring for 5, 10 or 20 years and haven’t ever got it cleaned! It’s a pity. I say make it shine! It’s small but it’s important to you and you should keep it sparkling. My recommendation is that you go to De Beers or whoever and they will usually clean it for free. Like a precious watch or car, you go for maintenance on a regular basis.

How do you find living in Dubai?

I’ve been living in Dubai for 10 years now. From a business point of view it’s fantastic there are so many opportunities. It’s unique in the world. I do go back to Europe once a month as I love opera.

You’ve got four daughters. Do they love diamonds?

Absolutely. I pity the poor guy who’s going to marry them, it will be a daunting task choosing them diamonds!

Is t h e r e a n y t h i n g t h a t m i g h t surprise people about De Beers?

It’s funny, people can be shy of walking into the De Beers stores because they think it isn’t for them and they can’t afford it. When

people come in they realise you can afford a diamond even on a tight budget.

De Beers stores are located in Mall of the Emirates, Dubai International Financial Centre, and Salam Studio & Stores at Wafi City, Dubai. Salam International is also the master franchisee for Mauboussin, Victoria Casal, Bedat & Co and Perles de Noa. For more information please visit: www.debeers.com or www.salaminternational.com

96

special edition sur la terre

The Worldʼs First Mechanical Watch Horological Machine No.2 is the world's first mechanical movement offering: Instantaneous Jump Hour, Concentric Retrograde Minutes, Retrograde Date, Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase and Automatic Winding. The innovative movement was developed by the master of Jumping Hour and Retrograde indicators, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and constructor Maximilien Di Blasi team at Agenhor in Geneva, with input from Patrick Lété of Les Artisans Horlogers.

97

special edition sur la terre

The Top 10 Most Expensive Watches 1 Vacheron Constantin, Tour de l'Ile, $1.5 million Swiss (founded 1755) Keeping time seems so simple until you run up against something like the Tour de l'Ile from Vacheron Constantin. After seven years in development and three years of assembly, the Swiss watchmaker marked its 250th anniversary this year with the world's busiest timepiece – at least for now. The Tour de l'Ile has 834 separate parts and 16 complications, including tourbillon, power reserve, striking-mechanism torque, moon phase, perpetual calendar, sunrise time, leap-year indicator, sunset time, sky chart and others. At $1.5 million, it's the priciest timepiece in Vacheron Constantine's anniversary line.

4 Parmigiani Fleurier, Toric Corrector Quantième Perpétual, $477,000 5 Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Tourbillon, $379,000 6 Jaeger-LeCoultre, Gyrotourbillon I, $310,000 7 IWC, Grande Complication, $300,000 8 Omega, Skeleton Central Tourbillon, $282,500 9 Breguet, Classique Grande Complication, $252,800 10 Breitling, Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon, $215,000

2 Blancpain, 1735, $839,000 Swiss (founded 1735) In the No. 2 spot for the second year in a row is Blancpain's ultraslim 1735, named for the year that Jehan-Jacques Blancpain opened his first factory. The 1735 features a half-dozen complications – two more than necessary to qualify as a "grand complication," and perhaps five more than you'll ever really need.

The ultraslim, 42 mm platinum case – itself a complication, according to Blancpain's owner, the Swatch Group – holds a perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, minute repeater, tourbillon and moon phase minder. It takes steady Swiss hands from eight to ten months to piece together all 740 components, and only 18 of a limited run of 30 watches have been assembled to date. With a crocodile strap and 80-hour power reserve, it'll wear well with just about anything – and for quite a while.

3 Girard-Perregaux, Opera Three, $532,000 Swiss (founded 1791) Sure, it has a power reserve indicator, a subsecond complication, a minute repeater and a truly elegant face. But what really differentiates Girard-Perregaux's Opera Three from all those other complicated watches is its ability to sound passing hours not with a beep, gong or chime, but with actual tunes. A miniature carillon – i.e., music box – sports 20 blades and a drum spotted with around 150 hand-mounted pins. A convenient selector enables a choice of two different tunes – each of which can be personalized to the wearer's taste. ("Time is on My Side," perhaps?) Lest you fear your melodic wrist might become the equivalent of a novelty car horn, the Opera Three also offers a lever that will disconnect those tunes entirely or play them only upon demand. With a 43 mm platinum case and a crocodile strap, it's a mellifluous timepiece that can be yours for $532,000.

98

special edition sur la terre

Discover Your Own Birthstone

For centuries, gemstones have fascinated people by their colours, beauty and rarity extra characteristic makes them even more desired: their link to the birth date of person. The month you were born in indicates which gem is most beneficial for you. words, a specific stone brings you luck if you wear it!

99

special edition

special edition sur la terre

A specific gem for every sign of the zodiac Aries

Taurus

Gemini

Ruby

Emerald

Opal

Virgo

Leo

Cancer

Agate

Topaz

Moonstone

Sagittarius Blue Sapphire

Scorpio

Libra

Garnet

Jade

Pisces

Aquarius

Aquamarine

Amethyst

Capricorn

Astrology is one of the most ancient sciences, and according to this science, each planet rules certain gems. By wearing a gem related to a certain planet you enhance all areas ruled by that planet. To know which gemstone will affect you positively you need to know the Birthstones list, but it’s so easy that we'll just give it to you!

There have been many different sets of birthstones used throughout history and in different cultures, but in 1912, the American National Association of Jewelers assigned birthstones to each of the twelve calendar months to create the following modern birthstone chart that is in use today: January Garnet – for a successful business.

Rose Quartz – inherits dynamic intensity and a healing power, comforts and heals the wounds that the heart has accumulated.

February Amethyst – wards off intoxicating powers of Bacchus, symbolizes royalty.

Onyx – said to banish grief and bring fortune to the one who wears it; it is also believed that it brings recognition of personal strengths.

March Aquamarine – believed to protect sailors and guarantee a safe trip; to cool the temper of its possessor and allow him/her to remain calm.

Bloodstone – used as an amulet to protect against the evil eye; also believed to have healing powers and was used for circulation of all energy in the body.

April Diamond – believed that it has the power to aid clear thought and determination; symbolizes constancy and love, devotion and purity.

White Topaz – represents loyalty and has the power to protect its possessor against misfortune and sudden death.

May Emerald – symbolizing rebirth, it grants the wearer foresight and good fortune.

Ag ate – to soothe the mind, prevent contagion, promote eloquence and bring good luck in card games.

June Pearl – have been used as finery.

Moonstone – believed to bring good fortune.

July Ruby – said to arouse the senses and bring health, wealth and love to the one who wears it.

Jade – regarded as a symbol of the good, the beautiful and the precious.

August Peridot – almost a magical stone; said to have healing prosperities and it protects against nightmares.

Sardonyx – believed it brings courage and victory.

September Sapphire – believed to protect your loved ones from envy and harm and to attract heavenly blessings.

Lapis Lazuli – believed that lapis was a powerful aphrodisiac.

Black Diamond

October Opal – believed to provide great luck – however, modern superstition attributed bad luck to the stone.

Pink T ourmaline – relaxing, nurturing associated with feminine energies.

November Yellow Topaz – available in many colours but the most prized one is called Imperial, after the Russian Czars of the 1800s.

Citrine – said to be the “healing quartz” and to support vitality and health, believed that it gives hope and energy.

December Turquoise – considered holy, a talisman and a good-luck-charm.

Tanzanite – treasured for its own beauty and brilliance.

100

special edition sur la terre

Unique Concept Stores Around the World A collection of curiosities, a special mix of brands and products defined by their whimsical nature and diverse provenance is what makes a Concept Store. It's all about a modern and highly innovative shopping experience. The store addresses particular groups of customers such as luxury, design and streetwear customers, offering them almost everything they want within one store: fashion, shoes, cosmetics, interior accessories, furniture, jewellery, books, magazines and cd's, to name but a few.

Villa Moda – Damascus Villa Moda, the Gulf region multibrand luxury chain is also present in Damascus, Syria, but not to offer any shop-in shops or free-standing brands; it actually introduced the luxury concept store idea to the city. In what was a 17th-century stone stable, the shop emphasizes on a large number of the world’s most desirable brands such as Prada, Miu Miu, Chloé, Dior, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana to name a few, combined with a beautiful selection of Syrian antiques and jewellery as well as garments made locally in lustrous silks.

Throughout the jet-set Villa Moda fashion boutique, contemporary furniture by designers such as Marc Newson, Capellini and Frank Gehry are displayed alongside antique Syrian pearl encrusted cupboards.

Once in Damascus, it is a must to visit this location.

Madhadt Basha Street Damascus - Syria Tel: +963-11-54499340 Fax: +963-11-5433326 info@villa-moda-syria.com www.villa-moda-syria.com

101

special edition sur la terre

Colette – Paris In Paris, the coolest boutique is undoubtedly Colette, a three-level hip store presenting selective and eclectic gadgets, gismos and metallic jewelry as well as techno accessories. Different spaces dedicated to fashion, cosmetics, literature, design and the latest trends in high-tech are spread all over 700 m2. Colette is also a place for exhibition, where the works of various artists such as photographers and painters are displayed.

Downstairs, the water-bar restaurant is a lounge corner, offering shoppers 100 referenced water brands listed on the menu along with the "plat du jour".

"Always be fresh and surprising" is the motto of Colette's founders who opened this concept store 10 years ago on the Rue St.-Honoré. The idea is to strike the shoppers with the unexpected and the funky, making them live an unusual experience within the modernist architecture of the store.

213 rue Saint-Honoré - 75001 Paris - France Tel: +33 1 55 35 33 90 - Fax: +33 1 55 35 33 99 contact@colette.fr Water-bar: Tel: +33 1 55 35 33 93 Galerie: galerie@colette.fr - Tel: +33 1 55 35 33 97 www.colette.fr

Five Green – Dubai

Shanghai Tang – Hong Kong

Urban chic comes to Dubai with a cutting-edge concept store.

Five Green, which emerges from the drawing board of awardwinning local architectural practice DXB-LAB, stocks menswear from Yoko Devereaux, Arabian-inspired shirts and Dubai-based Shirtaholics Anonymous as well as Lebanese pop art and jewelry from French-Omani label Taalali Oman. It is Dubai's fashionforward boutique and a showcase for challenging art and music.

Five Green is a combination of a gallery, a club and a shop where you can enjoy music, find magazines and books as well as designer toys, art and curiosities.

Founded in 1994, Shanghai Tang's Hong Kong boutique attracts millions of visitors every year. The brand Shanghai Tang is the only Chinese luxury brand; it creates luxurious, modern Chinese chic with themes that are rooted in ancient and authentic Chinese culture. It has flagship boutiques all over the world (including New York, Paris, London and Singapore) that reflect the Chinese creativity and art of living. The brand offers a full range of clothing for men, women and children as well as home furnishings, accessories and gifts. These products combine traditional Chinese design and motifs with contemporary sensibility, creating a vibrant fusion of Eastern and Western fashion.

Five Green, Garden Home Center, Oud Metha P.O.Box 73617, Dubai, UAE Tel: +9714.336.4100 Fax: +9714.336.4010 high@fivegreen.com www.fivegreen.com

Hong Kong: Pedder Building 12 Pedder Street Central Tel: + 852 2525 7333

Pacific Place Phase II Shop 237, Level 2 88 Queensway Tel: + 852 2918 1505 www.shanghaitang.com

HO 2

sur la terre

104

books & websites sur la terre

The Secret, by Rhonda Byrne It has been passed down through the ages, highly desirable, hidden, lost, stolen, and bought for vast sums of money. This centuries-old Secret has been understood by some of the most prominent people in history: Plato, Galileo, Beethoven, Edison, Carnegie, and Einstein – along with other inventors, theologians, scientists, and great thinkers.

Now the secret is being revealed to the world.

Towards the end of 2004, and following a string of traumatic events in her personal and professional life, Rhonda Byrne discovered a great secret - the secret laws and principles of the universe. Rhonda's daughter had given her a copy of The Science of Getting Rich, a book written in 1910 by Wallace D. Wattles. Of that moment, Rhonda says, "Something inside of me made me turn the pages one by one, and I can still remember my tears hitting the pages as I was reading it. It gave me a glimpse of The Secret and it was like a flame inside my heart."

What followed was a two-month odyssey of research and investigation as Rhonda traced The Secret back through thousands of years, incorporating almost every religion and field of human endeavour throughout history. Almost immediately her life was transformed, as she began to put into practice all she had learned. And in that moment her greatest wish, and new life mission, was to share this knowledge with the world. “As you learn The Secret, you will come to know how you can have, be, or do anything you want. You will come to know who you really are. You will come to know the true magnificence that awaits you in life.”

The Secret contains wisdom from modern-day teachers – men and women who have used it to achieve health, wealth, and happiness. By applying the knowledge of The Secret, they bring to light compelling stories of eradicating disease, acquiring massive wealth, overcoming obstacles, and achieving what many would regard as impossible. The Secret book is now available in many other languages, with more

Who, Me? By Denise Kenyon-Rouvinez Based in Switzerland, in the heart of Europe, Denise Kenyon-Rouvinez is a researcher, speaker and consultant working with family businesses on governance issues such as establishing a business board that works; defining roles, tasks and responsibilities for business, family and shareholders; family councils; and performance evaluation and control.

With her research and work on serial business families, she also helps families to find a path for change and entrepreneurial development. She has written several books on the subject of family business, and coauthored her latest, “Who, Me? Family Business Succession. A practical Guide For The Next Generation”. As she says, “Family business has given the world a large number of success stories. To this day, the family business continues to play a uniquely important economic role. But at the personal level, taking over a family firm brings difficulties that can only really be understood by those directly involved. What an unbelievable opportunity, to automatically be the next in line. But at the same time what a responsibility, what a burden, what pressure, and what constraints”. “Who, Me?” delves into the responsibilities of taking over the family business, the pressure that is undeniable applied, and how to turn it from a challenge into a thriving success.

105

books & websites sur la terre

Secrets of the Millionaire Mind, by T. Harv Eker In this life-changing book, one will learn how to identify and revise their own money blueprint to dramatically increase their income and accumulate wealth. By using these proven principles, T. Harv Eker went from zero to millionaire in only two and a half years. “Secrets of the Millionaire Mind demystifies why some people are destined to be rich while others are destined for a life of struggle. If you want to learn about the root cause of success, read this book.”

financial destiny. You will also learn how to identify you own money blueprint and “revise” it to not only create success but, more important, to keep and continually grow it. In Part II you will be introduced to seventeen “Wealth Files,” which describe exactly how rich people think and act differently than most poor and middle-class people. Each Wealth File includes action steps for you to practice in the real world in order to dramatically increase your income and accumulate wealth.

This is the most powerful, persuasive, and practical book on becoming wealthy. It is loaded with ideas, insights and strategies that will change the reader’s thinking and results for ever. Secrets of the Millionaire Mind are two books in one, with Part I explaining how the money blueprint works. Through Eker’s rare combination of street smarts, humour and heart, you will learn how your childhood influence have shaped you

If you are not doing as well financially as you would like, you have to change your money blueprint. Your current money blueprint will stay with you for the rest of your life, unless you identify and revise it, and that’s exactly what you will do with the help of this extraordinary book.

According to T. Harv Eker, it’s simple. If you think like rich people think and do what rich people do, chances are you’ll get rich too!

Luxist Luxist.com is a website that serves as a simple yet effective search engine for the best of luxury the internet has to offer. With related searches from online blogging to technology, information on the latest luxury items for sale, promotional advertising, international luxury news, business and groups, breaking news and classifieds, luxist.com is easy t o navigate and simple to use. If you’re looking for the best that luxury has to offer worldwide, luxist.com provides the gateway to the world

Scriblink Scriblink is a free digital whiteboard that users can share online in realtime, like on pen and paper, just minus the dead trees, plastic, and the inconvenience of being at the same place at the same time. It’s all about collaboration. Whether you're there for pure artistic enjoyment or more practical matters such as layout planning, concept diagramming, or tutoring a friend in math, Scriblink brings you the power of free hand expression with anyone, at anytime, anywhere in the world.

Privacy: the board is all yours, open only to the people you choose to invite. Dynamic Tools: use shapes, hundreds of colors, a text feature, thickness bar, and a grid to help guide your drawings.

Image Uploader: upload an image onto the whiteboard as the background, allowing you to mark it, deface it, or highlight key elements.

In-Screen Chat: when working with others, no need to sign in to.

On the homepage you'll be immediately directed to a Scriblink board, which is free and requires no registration. Here you can take advantage of all sorts of useful features, such as:

Songza Songza is the brainchild of 23-year-old Aza Raskin — the president of Chicago-based software company Humanized, Inc., and the son of Apple Macintosh founder Jef Raskin. Over the course of a month, he and Humanized's Web/Systems Architect Scott Robbin worked weekends to bring the idea to life. The site launched on November 8, 2007 and instantly generated significant buzz around the world.

Hundreds of bloggers and news writers have praised its elegant user interface, beautiful design, and all-around utility. Lke all good ideas, both the concept and design came to Aza while he was in the shower.

Songza is different because it’s primary purpose is to illustrate how to provide content using a "humane interface" — the term used by Jef Raskin to describe interfaces that reflect how people actually use software. Songza presents this concept through its clean, clutter-free design and transparent remote control. New features will be added in time. Aso, unlike KaZaa or Bit Torrent, Songza users can only listen to songs, not download them. And unlike Last.fm or Rhapsody, Songza permits users to choose exactly the song or artist they want to hear, and does not require them to subscribe or pay for its services.

There are also some exciting new features in the lineup that will really enhance the online creative and collaborative experience, so stay tuned!

106

DVD’s sur la terre

Planet Earth

Studio 60

The team behind the multi-awardwinning natural history series The Blue Planet are back with the ultimate portrait of our planet.

Over the years BBC ONE has shown viewers the most incredible sights on the planet, but there’s an even more amazing world out there that’s never been seen, and it’s captured for the first time in Planet Earth.

What goes on behind the scenes of a nationwide late-night comedy sketch show? Aaron Sorkin, creator of the West Wing, answers that question with a must-see ‘show within a show’ filled with engaging characters, ear-grabbing dialogue and a Hollywood hive of insider buzz.

Planet Earth is the first natural history series to be filmed entirely in high definition, providing an unparalleled view of breathtaking landscapes from all across the globe and incredible footage of the rarely spotted, almost mythical creatures that live in these habitats.

The epic story of life on Earth – four years in production, over 2,000 days in the field, 40 cameramen filming across 200 locations, shot entirely in high definition, this is the ultimate portrait of our planet. A stunning television experience that captures rare action, impossible locations and intimate moments with our planet's best-loved, wildest and most elusive creatures. From the highest mountains to the deepest rivers, this blockbuster series takes you on an unforgettable journey through the daily struggle for survival in Earth's most extreme habitats. Narrated by David Attenborough, Planet Earch is the definitive look at the diversity of our planet.

Mr Brooks Academy Award winner Kevin Costner stars as Earl Brooks, a successful businessman, a generous philanthropis, a loving father and a devoted husband.

But Mr. Brooks has a secret — he is also the notorious Thumbprint Killer and no one has ever suspected it… until now. A man who has managed to keep his two incompatible worlds from intersecting by controlling his cunning alter ego (Academy Award winner William Hurt) and hiding it from his wife (Marg

Helgenberger) and daughter (Danielle Panabaker). But as Mr. Brooks succumbs to one more murderous urge, an amateur photographer (Dane Cook) witnesses the crime. Suddenly Brooks finds himself trapped in the twisted agenda of an opportunistic bystander, as well as hunted by an unorthodox and tenacious investigator, Tracy Atwood (Demi Moore). Now, a terrifying game is unfolding where desire is dark, knowledge is deadly and the man who has everything has everything to hide.

Matthew Perry and Bradley Whitford portray the likable hotshots brought in to revive NBS-TV’s sagging flagship comedy series, and Amanda Peet plays their savvy boss in episodes exploring the lives and loves of – and the make-or-break creative pressures on – the show’s staff.

Panic. Chaos. Fear. Sleep deprivation. All in a days work for Studio 60!

107

music

sur la terre

Il Divo

Il Divo has conquered the world.

In just two years since their debut album, the dramatic rise of the international operatic supergroup has been breathtaking in its speed and unparalleled in its success.

The fusion of four exceptional voices, bringing the passion and virtuosity of their classical training to the interpretation of romantic and popular songs, has brought a sense of opera into the mainstream and thrilled the world in the process. They have achieved 26 # 1 chart positions internationally, sold over 13 million albums, and accumulated some 104 gold and platinum awards around the world.

Simon Cowell, the infamous judge of Pop Idol, spent two years

searching for Il Divo, giving up on initial open Pop Idol style auditions to concentrate on scouring the globe for four very specific singers. And he wasn’t wrong – with Il Divo, their first album, which was released in October 2004, they smashed Led Zeppelin's 25-year record of being the only band to achieve a number 1 album without a commercial single release. It was even the highest charting debut album for a UK signed act ever in America. Their second album, Ancora, went straight in at number 1 in the USA, sold a phenomenal 150,000 copies there in just one week, and confirmed them as one of the biggest acts in the world. In the UK, Ancora also went straight to number 1 and they finished the

Ray Lamontagne Nominated for the Best New Act Award in the MOJO honours List 2005, Ray Lamontagne has become a name to watch. His voice has been impressing across the globe while his debut album 'Trouble' created huge waves.

Stunning the critics with his live performances and sounding anywhere between Otis Redding and Ry Cooder, Ray LaMontagne is the most authentic, soulful and cutting edge singer / songwriter of modern times. In ony two weeks, Ray and the gifted, single-minded producer/player Ethan Johns created 'Trouble'. Recorded at the Alley and Studio 3 at Sunset Sound in Los Angeles, most of the songs were tracked live, with Ray playing guitar and singing and Johns laying in the drum, bass and piano parts.

'Trouble' quietly sold over 250,000 copies, the grassroots result of listeners throughout the world hearing the New Hampshire-born singer and songwriter and telling others about him. Yet for his follow-up album LaMontagne demanded of himself a recording that did not revisit the same ground on which he had premiered with such uncommon command. When he began to assemble what has emerged as 'Till the Sun Turns Black', his new album, another

year on a high performing for Her Majesty the Queen at The Royal Variety Show.

The band is comprised of Sebastien Izambard, a pop singer from France, Urs Bühler, a tenor from Switzerland, Carlos Marin, a baritone from Spain, and David Miller, the tenor from the USA, who says: "So much of what has happened has exceeded our hopes and expectations, and the

future seems wide open. But we still have to keep ourselves grounded in the music, in passion for the music, and for performing.

We are built for singing, that's what we're here for, to let our voices out, and let the music ring.

Now we're going to the next step." For all four members it has been an incredible journey, and with the release of their third album, Siempre, Il Divo are poised

UTN1 collaboration with the noted producer and musician Ethan Johns, LaMontagne examined the songs he had written, songs that his follow-up might contain. Many were effective, fluent, and fine; others seemed something more than any of those things to LaMontagne; these were songs that, as he puts it, "ate away" at him.

On the eleven songs that comprise 'Till the Sun Turns Black,' all of this is audible — the demand for meaningfulness, the requirement of emotional relevancy, the struggle of working through material in the form of songs that refuse, until properly recorded, to leave the artist alone.

The music, horn-warmed soul classicism that turns decisively yet inevitably into broader expanses of sound, extends with heart and skill the vintage U.S R&B and Americana folk-country that made LaMontagne famous on 'Trouble'.

'Till the Sun Turns Black' is the song cycle of a man determined to convey his journey from bluecollar everyman to supremely nuanced musician who bares his soul, in the studio and onstage, to strangers. For Ray LaMontagne, it's the only course to take.

"That's why we're here," he says, "to express ourselves."

In 1999, the five members of Unknown to No One were actually unknown to everyone. Forming a boy band in Baghdad to sing pop songs in English, they were at best a shot in the dark. No one in Iraq was listening to the Backstreet Boys or the Spice Girls then, and the masses weren’t likely to be sympathetic to homegrown harmonizing in a language more often associated with deadening economic sanctions than with sugar-coated music that was barred from entering the country anyway. Four years later, when the war broke out in Iraq, the boys had an eight-track album on their hands and a captive audience of shock-and-awed foreign journalists all desperate for a feel-good feature. Suddenly, the band became the best story coming out of a bad situation.

Another four years later, with a roller-coaster ride in between, and Unknown to No One, shorthanded to UTN1, had been split up, scattered around the region and reunited in Lebanon.

Made up of Nadeem, the singer, Hassan, the guitarist, Shant, the drummer, Art, the mastermind behind the music, and Akhlad, the past few years have been rough on the band members. They’ve

been shuttled around from Iraq to Jordan, the United Kingdom and back again, and arrived back in Lebanon just as Israel began its month-long bombing campaign two summers ago. In a last-ditch effort to salvage the band, Shant gave a CD of their music to an American businessman. A few years down the road, he is the majority shareholder in LCI Entertainment, and now, after a white-knuckle wait on their work permits, the band are both reunited and legitimately residing in Beirut. Now all the band has to do is prove itself. “We are really eager for this moment,” says Shant. “Can we make people dance?” he asks. “Can we make them listen to our music in their cars?” “We have been around the world now and we know the music industry is very competitive,” says Art. “There are so many people out there with multiple talents. When I see Beyonce I say to myself: What the hell? She’s a goddess. What can we do? But I’ve also learned that we don’t have to compare ourselves to the others. We just have to do our work, with love, give people the music and let them judge. We want the music to play the main part in our story now”.

108

restaurants sur la terre

A haven away from the stresses of everyday life and yet a stylish place where friends can meet to enjoy superb casual dining, Café Ceramique is much more than a sophisticated café. A place to be inspired, where the artist in all of us is given free rein to paint beautiful, individual works of art.

Café Ceramique, situated in The Mall in Doha, Qatar, is much more than a café, much more than an art studio – it's a new experience in café culture.

The concept behind Café Ceramique is part café, part art studio, and is designed as a home away from home with comfortable seating areas, artlined walls and a relaxed laid back ambience. The café is not exclusive to seasoned artists – in

Cafe Ceramique fact one needs never have picked up a paintbrush before in order to produce stunning, unique ceramics anyone would be proud to display, or as a special gift to loved ones. Brushes, paint, stamps – everything the customers' needs are supplied by the café, including the white ceramics ready for them to adorn.

Age is also no barrier at Café Ceramique – they welcome customers from age 4 to 104, b o t h men and women. Additionally, with their own dedicated studio for youngsters, children can be left in the care of dedicated and capable staff whilst adults can relax or paint to their heart's content – after all, it's never to late to be creative!

110

people

sur la terre

Mannai Introduces Cadillac Lifestyle to the Youth of Qatar Mannai Trading Co., the exclusive dealers for the Cadillac range of cars, held a Cadillac lifestyle event at the Al Wosail Ballroom of The RitzCarlton, Doha. The gala event was attended by top VVIP’s from Qatar and other prominent personalities of the Qatari society. Top officials from Mannai Corporation and General Motors were also present at the event.

During the event a high profile fashion show was organized which highlighted the latest designs of Qatari fashion designer Sheikha Noor Jassim Al Thani. The invitees were entertained by a string of dance performances by leading dance artistes from all over Europe, but the major highlight of the event was the launch of 2008 models of Cadillac CTS and Escalade.

“The 2008 CTS and Escalade have been completely revolutionized with sleek and seductive looks as well as breakthrough automotive technology. It aptly combines comfort, luxury, style and convenience and is destined to be the ideal match for every trendy and fashion conscious youngster in town”, said a representative of General Motors.

Cadillac, the luxury vehicle brand of General Motors, is a proven leader in bold automotive design, breakthrough technology and world-class performance. The brand has been an iconic presence in the Middle East region for over 30 years. Mannai Trading Co. has been the sole dealer for the Cadillac range of vehicle since its arrival into Qatar decades ago.

The company is also the exclusive dealer for other General Motors brands like Hummer, GMC and Opel. The company’s 'customer-first' approach in combination with its innovative after sales programs have earned it an ever-expanding and satisfied client base in Qatar.

111

people

sur la terre

Salam opens its Luxury Watch and Jewellery Department Salam, Qatar's leading luxury department store, announced the opening of a jewellery department with four leading international jewellery brands: H. Stern, Mauboussin, Victoria Casal and Les Perles de Noa. Addressing the press and VIP guests during the announcement press conference, Mr. Issa Abu Issa, Chairman and CEO of Salam, said: “Introducing a watch and jewellery department is a natural consequence of our increasing role as the region's leading luxury retailer. With the economic boom in Qatar and the rest of the GCC, the market for luxury goods has doubled in the last couple of years. By associating with the best of international jewellery brands we are responding to the needs of the market, while extending our offer to our discerning customers in the GCC�.

Alfardan Motorcyles launch Piaggio Group in Qatar Alfardan Motorcycles Centre has been named exclusive importer of Piaggio Group in the country, adding yet another achievement to its prestigious portfolio of global brand names. During a press conference held at the Centre's Khalifa showroom, Mr. Roy Burt, Chief Operating Officer of Alfardan Automobiles, Mr. Georges Marianelli, Piaggio Group Area Manager, and Mr. Robert Zarzour, Director of Motorcycles and Lifestyles at Alfardan Motorcycles Centre, made the announcement and welcomed Piaggio, a leading international two-wheel motor vehicles'manufacturer established in 1884 by Rinaldo Piaggio and based in Pontedera, Pisa, Italy, to Qatar.

112

people

sur la terre

The Launch of

Memories of the Arabian Peninsula

Blue Salon sponsored the Gala dinner that took place in La Cigale Hotel in January 2008 to launch “Memories of the Arabian Peninsula�, an anthology of photographs of Arabian countries.

The event was attended by the representatives of the Qatar Museum Association, the National Traditional Culture and Arts and the French Embassy, as well as VIP's such as Mr. Mohamed Adballah Al Rumaihi, the Assistant Minister of Foreign Affairs, Mr. Mohamed Jiham Al Kawari, the Qatar Ambassador to Paris, and Senator Nathali Meriam Oweilet.

Mr. Pascal Gayle, author of the book, travelled to several Gulf countries to collect the best photographs from both amateur and professional local photographers, as well as collaborating with the best local photographers. Gayle explained that there were more than 300 photographs portraying the rich Arabic heritage and culture between 1850 and 1965 that were displayed in the exhibition.

He also added that almost each photograph showcased the richness of the real gulf tradition before the oil and gas boom began. The captions for the book are in French, Arabic and English, and after Qatar, the exhibition will travel to Beirut, Cairo and other major European cities.