Sur la Terre Arabia - Spring 2014 by Firefly Communications

ARABIA

n. 31 THE ALCHEMY OF AROMA Discover Penhaligon's, the pefumery of princes

RIVA AQUA-DRAMA Witness the rebirth of a Lamborghini legend

Which cars got visitors to the Geneva Motor Show all revved up? Strap in and hold tight as SLT highlights the show's

WHEELS OF FORTUNE

The view from my office window is distorted by the tracks of torrential raindrops that are pelting the glass as I write these words...

Editorial ...And, as Doha’s sodden streets glisten and dance, with the lights of passing cars reflecting off roads punctuated with rippling pools of precipitation, it seems strange for me to start pontificating on the seasonal metamorphosis that heralds the beginning of Spring. In fact, if the puddles on the street below get any bigger, we’re going to need a boat to begin deliveries of this issue. The vessel currently coveted by the SLT team is the Lamborghini Riva Aquarama that appears among these very pages, though I fear my colleagues will be disappointed, given the restored Riva’s rarity and priceless status. With our escape plan scuppered before it even became seaworthy, I shall instead use the time I have left, before the water makes it to the 14th floor, to highlight the cavalcade of editorial class we have in store over the coming pages of our automotive-themed Spring edition. We slip into first gear with a look at the luxury motoring market from the inside, courtesy of Bentley big-wig, Kevin Rose, before speeding into second with top line interviewees: Michelin-star chef, Alain Ducasse, and Vertu’s CEO, Massimiliano Pogliani. A racing change into third gear through the corner brings us neatly onto London’s Jermyn Street, where we pause to freshen up at Penhaligon’s, the 144-year-old perfumery of princes (and princesses). Back in the driving seat, we pick up speed on our motoring theme, reaching Geneva, and it’s spectacular motor show, before taking in some modern art with Mona Hatoum at Doha’s Mathaf. Cranking the cogs into fourth gear, the scenery is nothing but a blur of colour as we sweep through our international fashion shoot before embarking on a culinary odyssey through Malaysia. Cruising in top gear, through lanes of luxury, we arrive in Modena, Italy, where we pull the lever into reverse to race back through the 100-year history of Maserati, one of the country’s first luxury sports car manufacturers. After a quick shopping spree around the region’s Marketplace, it’s time to head home, but not before checking out some of the stellar events in arts, culture and entertainment heading to the region soon, or picking up some style tips along the way. By the time we drop you at the gate of your luxury lodgings, hopefully it will have stopped raining. So, whichever of life's bejewelled boulevards you choose to traverse this Spring, we invite you to strap in and enjoy the 128-page lap of luxury we have laid out before you along the way. Until next time, stay classy, Arabia. James McCarthy

regional managing Editor

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Allegra

CONTENTS

arabia

the list

the scene

f o r y o u r e y e s o n ly

rev ue

st y le con fidenti a l

gl obe tro t ter

i n focus

up close

ac c e s s o r i e s

i n mo tion

Art, culture, lifestyle

Were you seen on the scene?

The things you need to own

Keeping up with the Kempinski

Fashion Forecast

Your guide to global luxury

Bentley's Kevin Rose discusses the luxury car market

per son a l

Passionate and talented people

Time to Play

Ferruccio Lamborghini's Riva Aquarama

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CONTENTS

arabia

tr en ds con fidenti a l

look book

b e au t y

fe atu r e

a rt opi a

100

fa s h i o n

110

hor izons

116

or igi ns

122

m a r k e t p l ac e

The new Couture Club

The best look for guys & girls

Penhaligon's: the alchemy of aroma

The best of the 2014 Geneva Motor Show

"Turbulence" by Mona Hatoum

Rail Against the Machine

Eat, Malay, Love

100 years of Maserati

Products available regionally

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â&#x20AC;&#x153; T he earth laughs i n flowers ." - e.e. cummings

the list arts and culture

8-10

26 June 6 July

june july

Rusalka Opera

Jerash Festival for Culture and Arts

Ramadan

WHEN: May 8th - 10th WHERE: Oman WHAT: Opera One part Little Mermaid, one part traditional Czech folklore, Rusalka is one of the most beautifully tragic stories to ever be told within the operatic medium, which is saying a lot, quite frankly. Following a water nymph’s desperate attempts to capture the heart of her “prince charming,” it is, as its playbill touts, “a mystery about love, defeat and salvation,” and it is not one you should miss. As the promotional materials say of the show, it “has been increasingly recognised as a major part of [famed Czech composer] Antonín Dvorák’s oeuvre; a celebration of love stronger than death, and forgiveness stronger than hate.” Boasting musical direction from Jaroslav Kyzlink and the theatrical composition of Vladimír Morávek, this classic opera is beloved in refined circles the world over for very good reason and is a must-see when it comes to the Royal Opera House Muscat. www.rohmuscat.org.om

WHEN: June 26th - July 6th WHERE: Jordan WHAT: Festival One of the most highly-anticipated cultural and entertainment events in the Middle East, the annual Jerash Festival, which takes place in the Roman-built city of the same name, is a veritable smorgasbord of incredible music and unforgettable performance art. Last year boasted performances from renowned Iraqi singer Kadim Al Saher and Lebanese vocalists Najwa Karam, Aasi Hillani, Nancy Ajram and Dina Hayek, amongst many, many others. The show reportedly drew an audience of well over 100,000 music lovers to its diverse programme of activities and concerts. All signs point to the festival’s 29th iteration this year being even bigger and better, as the two-week extravaganza takes on a more international feel. If you haven’t experienced the festival - or simply appreciated the remarkable backdrop of Jerash for its historical significance and beauty - then 2014 should definitely be your year! www.jerashfestival.jo

may

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WHEN: June - July WHERE: International WHAT: Religious Observance It’s time for your yearly reminder: Ramadan is coming! With it will follow all of the introspective contemplation, revelatory sacrifice and family togetherness you could ever want in a cultural / religious holiday. Though perhaps its most well-known aspect, daily fasting, is really only part of the Ramadan experience rather than its defining feature (the especially lavish and sumptuous Iftar and Suhoor meals here in the Gulf, notwithstanding). The most important thing to focus on during this holiest of months in the Islamic calendar, however, is expanding the overall human capacity for patience, humility and to a grander extent, forgiveness and brotherhood, not necessarily just within Islam, but the whole of Mankind. Regardless of whether or not you are Muslim, Ramadan is a fantastic time to take stock of yourself and recommit yourself to attaining the truest luxury of all: becoming a better you.

the list ENTERTAINMENT

may

july

Black Sabbath

Neil Young

Paul van Dyk

WHEN: May 29th WHERE: Abu Dhabi WHAT: Rock Concert Often cited as the forebears of modern Heavy Metal, Black Sabbath has a history that goes back almost 50 years, if you can believe it! To celebrate the release of last year’s 13 - the immortal band’s nineteenth studio album and its first in 35 years - Black Sabbath has embarked on a world tour that will lead it through a non-coincidental 13 countries, one of which is the UAE! The fine purveyors of unmitigated rock anthems like “Paranoid,” “War Pigs” and “Iron Man” have, throughout their combined illustrious careers, brought down the thunder during their gigs, and while the bandmates have perhaps grown both older and wiser, the set they have planned for Abu Dhabi is bound to be no less impressive. It may not be one of the endless retinue of House DJs that incessantly come through the region, but for a true tour de force in musical mayhem, be sure to observe the Sabbath! www.abudhabievents.ae

WHEN: July 15th WHERE: Istanbul WHAT: Rock Concert Accomplished director, passionate environmentalist, and most importantly, rock and roll legend, whether you like him or not, Canada’s own Neil Young has had a truly lasting presence in music for almost five decades. His solo career, along with significant stints in both Buffalo Springfield and as a latter member joining Crosby, Stills & Nash, have garnered him unequivocal accolades in the industry, including his standing as a two-time inductee into The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Young’s unmistakable voice, introspective songwriting and singular guitar work has made him a perpetual stand-out amongst a long line of wannabes and imitators. If you have not yet had the opportunity to see this amazing talent live and in concert, take this great opportunity to do so as he rocks Küçükçiftlik Park in Istanbul this summer! www.biletix.com

WHEN: July 4th WHERE: Cyprus WHAT: Electronic Concert Long-known as one of the godfathers of EDM, Paul van Dyke may not be to everyone’s taste, but to say that he has helped transcend a style of sound would be an understatement. He is, without question, one of the world’s first and still-steady celebrity DJs and producers, enjoying a surprisingly lasting prominence within such a transitory genre. Even the quickest perusal of his awards and accomplishments is enough to make any music lover swoon, and it’s clear that the prolific and multi-talented electronic artist is here to stay. A regular visitor to the Gulf and the Middle East at large, PvD is heading to a place that provides the ideal backdrop to his rich sonic stylings: Cyprus. Only a hop, skip and relatively short dance floor shuffle away from the GCC thanks to Qatar Airways' new route to Larnaca, you can bet his throng of loyal local supporters will be there in force! www.thecastleclub.com

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the list Lifestyle

12 June 30 aug

6-8

may

12 June 13 july

Dubai Sports World

Gulf Interiors Exhibition

2014 FIFA World Cup

WHEN: June 12th - Aug 30th WHERE: Dubai WHAT: Sports Festival Surprisingly to those insufficiently-versed in the regional obsession with the stuff, the Arabian Gulf has become a focal point for international sport in recent years. It’s no secret that many of the area’s states and emirates have shared hosting duties of internationally lauded sporting events, the most significant of which of course is Qatar’s winning 2022 Fifa World Cup bid! To make sure you’re in shape for that literally game-changing event, you’re going to want to make the most of Dubai Sports World, which annually transforms its 28,000 square-metre arena into a fortress of sporting importance! Whatever your game of choice - be it football, rugby, tennis or even billiards - it will be on offer at the 2014 Dubai Sports World for two solid months! Game on, everybody! www.dubaisportsworld.ae

WHEN: May 6th - 8th WHERE: Bahrain WHAT: Interior Design Exhibition Much like sport, the realm of interior design in the region we call home is one that is fuelled by the passion of a growing group of trendsetters. Feeding that need is the upcoming 2014 Gulf Interiors Exhibition, which will be held in the capital city of Bahrain and, in the words of its press materials, will “provide the unique opportunity for manufacturers, suppliers, retailers, designers, architects and contractors to showcase a range of luxurious, designer and innovative products for home or commercial spaces.” They’re not lying, this event will purportedly run an expansive gamut of interior design, including, but not limited to, the following: Furniture, Textiles, Upholstery Fabrics, Flooring, Wallpaper, Kitchens, Bathrooms, Art, Antiques and Ornamental Accessories, and of course, Interior Design Services. If you too are a holistic homebody, you’re going to want to check this out! www.gulfinteriorsexhibition.com

WHEN: June 12th - July 13th WHERE: Brazil WHAT: Global Sporting Jamboree To some, it may seem strange to put our World Cup reminder here in the Lifestyle section, but let’s be honest, the World Cup isn’t just a sporting event, it’s a way of life! Chances are, if you’re reading this, you’re about 10 different shades of excited for the planet’s most popular sporting event to finally roll around after its terribly lengthy four-year hiatus. Don’t get us wrong, the Olympics this year were great, but in our humble opinion, they don’t hold a candle to the uncontested biggest and best sporting event since its inception in 1930. Will the fleet feet of Spain be able to defend their first ever World Cup title? Will host nation Brazil pick up its sixth tournament victory? Or will a dark horse rise to claim the highest prize in the land? Tune-in this summer to find out! www.fifa.com/worldcup

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th e scen e

2014 Dubai International Boat Show —

Thousands visit the 22nd iteration of the region’s top leisure marine event

Over 750 exhibitors from 50 countries drew thousands of international visitors to Dubai Marina in early March. Visitors of 70 different nationalities came to experience the event, which saw more than US$50 million in sales before the end of the first day with the sale of Sunseeker’s “SS 155” 48-metre Super yacht and Turkish shipyard, Bilgin’s, latest 50-metre vessel occurring in the first few hours. These were just two of the 19 super yachts that moored up among the 430 total boats on display throughout the week-long show.

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TheDressRoom.com debuts its offline showroom in Dubai —

E-commerce fashion retailer offers easier access to women shoppers

Online fashion retailer, TheDressRoom.com, launched its offline showroom at Jumeirah Lake Towers, Dubai, earlier this month. The showroom complements the online store and offers a place where women can preview, order and buy a selection of gorgeous designer dresses and gowns. Founders, Samantha Kayruz Chami and Dina Abdul Hadi Daryani, hope it will also become a social space for female fashionistas of the region as they enjoy TheDressRoom.com’s extensive online selection of over 3,000 designer dresses.

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th e scen e

Opening of "Turbulence" by Mona Hatoum —

MATHAF hosts critically-acclaimed artist for the first time in the GCC

1. Sandra, Leonore, Sabine and Hannah 2. Eva, Diana, Kathrina and Thomas 3. Federica, Louma and Rania

4. Caitlin, Omar and Nour 5. Nicole, Lisa and Jeanne 6. Simon and Katie 7. Lema and Rhoda 8. Tara and Shurooq

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th e scen e

Al Wajba Motors Opens New Showrooms —

Qatar gets its first McLaren and Bugatti showrooms

VIPs went to witness the opening of, arguably, one of the most awaited car showrooms in Qatar. Al Wajba Motors finally opened Qatar’s first McLaren and Bugatti showrooms, as well as new-look premises for both Lamborghini and Bentley. Senior representatives of the brands joined the General Manager, Sahar Baaj, to inaugurate the facilities, including Ian Gorsuch from McLaren, Dr Stephan Brungs from Bugatti and Kevin Rose from Bentley.

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th e scen e

2014 Qatar Motor Show —

The 2014 Qatar Motor Show welcomed 40,000 visitors, according to organisers.

The VW Group and Qatar's car dealerships came together for the fourth Qatar Motor Show. Despite its move further out of town to the Qatar National Convention Centre, it didn’t seem to dampen the spirits of the country’s petrolheads, who still turned out in force according to official numbers. There were some more regional premiers again this year, from the new entry-level luxury of the Porsche Macan and the Maserat Ghibli, the billionaire playthings, such as Lamborghini Roadsters and Bugatti Veyrons, to cool concepts like the Audi Nanuk and BMW i8. The Renault Twizzy micro-mobile also took its regional bow at the show.

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u r eyes o

WELCOME To a world where money is no object and Cool comes at a price. FYEO is A millionaire’s shopping list that gives you an iNSIDE track to the things you need to own.

The NEW-kah Pipe

>>>

By now, the shisha (or hookah) pipe is pretty much a standard fixture in or around most homes in the Gulf, and Middle East at large, as a means of enjoying the rich and flavourful traditions of the region’s culture. Acting as both a functional centre-point of camaraderie and, quite simply, as an ever-impressive objet d’art, the various styles that have been developed for the hookah throughout the ages are near-endless. However, never before have we been so captivated by a pipe’s design as that of the I00I. In direct contrast to the ornate affairs of the past, the I00I is an exquisite exercise in ultra-modernity, implementing sleek lines to give it the appearance of something you might see in a mad scientist’s laboratory / armoury. That’s just the beginning of what makes this piece so unique, though. Created by Italian designer Christian Zanzott, who recently received Gold Newcomer accolades at the German Design Awards, the minimalistic I00I is comprised of anodised aluminium, polished brass, crystalline glass and... get this... 3D-printed parts! Tradition meets technology now that’s what we call smokin’ hot design! www.thousandandone.org

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Safety in Wonders

>>>

If you’re reading Sur la Terre Arabia, chances are you have, at least once in your life, contemplated swimming through a large vault of money, a-la Scrooge McDuck from Disney’s classic show Duck Tales. Hey, we don’t blame you! However, while you may not have the good fortune to live in the anthropomorphic environs of Duckburg, you can still enjoy the security Uncle Scrooge himself must have felt with your very own Fortress Safe. Made from the most luxurious materials, such as the Spanish cedar which lines its humidor interior, the Fortress boasts its own security class of VdS/EN 5, which is tested to insure your valuables up to a cost of US$1 million. Prepped to link up to your favourite security alarm (which includes a built-in silent function), the design of this safe is also crafted to your specifications to an infinitesimal degree, particularly as regards your combination formulation. It also includes an integrated Colosimo two-door safe and the aforementioned Wempe humidor, allowing you to control literally everything about how your money is kept. Available in multiple colourful derivations and permutations, and robustly upholstered in rich calfskin, the Doettling Fortress is twelve shades of gorgeous, and will keep your goods well and truly away from the criminally covetous. www.doettling.com

Perpetual Prose >>> Fellow writers, rejoice! The old adage that “the pen is mightier than the sword” has been further proven true, thanks to a unique collaboration between two Italian design firms: the ever-iconoclastic-fantastic Pininfarina and the stationery revolutionaries at Napkin. Made in the country of both companies’ origin, the 4.EVER Pininfarina Cambiano pen is so named because it uses neither the graphite nor ink usually associated with the traditional writing instruments that have now officially become outmoded. Instead, the 4.EVER implements a remarkable new metal alloy to divine

your words permanently from your mind to the page. Sharpening and buying ink cartridges are now practices relegated to the past thanks to this stylish pseudo-stylus, which boosts its name and inspiration from the Pininfarina Cambiano concept car, and is hewn deliciously into existence in aluminium and wood. With the precision of a pencil and the permanence of a pen, the 4.EVER also comes with a notebook made of “stone paper,” which to us sounds like industrial wizardry, but the manufacturers assert is stronger, water resistant and more eco-friendly than its tree-based alternative. We’ve often been accused of “going on and on endlessly” in our pursuit of peerless copy; now we’ve got the pen to match! www.napkin4ever.com

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Boxcartistic >>> Sometimes, luxury craftsmanship and artistry can be found in the most endearing of places. Take Stuart Gurr, for example. A UK-native with over 20 years experience in tuning, restoring and building cars, Stuart heads a company called Vmaxscart (www.vmaxscart.co.uk), which is dedicated to outfitting supercharger kits. However, his perhaps more charming passion lies in creating bespoke box and electric cars for his young daughters, Scarlett and Maddie... and they are pretty spectacular. So far, Stuart has forged a Mini Cooper (Scarlett’s first electric car), an AC Cobra, a pair of old Bugatti Type 35s, a Ferrari 250 GTO and even a re-creation of the iconic car from the film Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, which,

upon completion, measured a slight disappointment in Scarlett after she realised it couldn’t fly. His next project, according to the website, will be to work on a 1954 Mercedes-Benz W196R, with an open wheel design, a 2.2m alloy body and stainless tube chassis based around the car’s instantly-recognisable original design. It’s expected to be completed this summer, so make sure you check back at his site for an update. Obviously, it’s no surprise that we fell in love with Stuart’s cars, not to mention the fatherly love that inspired them. That’s the kind of luxury money just can’t buy! www.scarlettsgarage.co.uk

A Chair-rible Fate Awaits >>> Emperor Palpatine, Dr. Claw and Skeletor. What do all of these individuals have in common? If you guessed an insatiable thirst for power and an amoral ethos, you’d only be half right. What links these well-known ne’er do wells together is not necessarily just the commonality of their criminality or an air of being superior, but where they choose to park their nefarious posteriors. Any true villain worth his, or her, weight in laser death rays and ill-tempered mutant henchmen will tell you that the true secret to being bad is sitting pretty and looking good! Behold then, fellow fiends, the appropriately-named Villain Chair by Suck UK. Like many amongst the world’s clandestine criminal element, little is known about this “seatanic” chair, other than that it is hewn with the finest leather, chrome, steel, aluminium and, of course, pure evil! Okay, maybe it’s not actually evil, but you can bet that once you are seated in its plush, all-encompassing cushion and, for the first time, are able to fulfill your Blofeldian fantasy of slowly turning on its swivel base to address your nemesis, the feeling of power that will swarm you will be most diabolical indeed! If you like a dash of panache in your dastardly plan, accept no others. Now then, time to start building that moat... www.suck.uk.com

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r evu e h ote l

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Keeping up with the kempinski Deputy Editor, Laura Hamilton, continues her love affair with Bahrain.

’m not really a burger fan. I don’t like buns, minced beef or eating with my hands if I’m outside of my own home and liable to be messy. On the other hand, this slider is delicious...“What is this?” I asked, mouth half-full, incredulous. It didn’t taste like a normal burger, it tasted softer, fresher, tangier and meatier. I couldn’t get enough. I was salivating in ecstasy and masticating with glee; which sounds disgusting, but such is the lexicon of gastronomy. The answer was brisket mixed with BBQ sauce, perfectly sized in tiny, wee slider mouthfuls; heaven in a bite.

I love Bahrain, but it wasn’t always thus; the first time I saw the mall, I was a little dubious. It was one of those dour, grey days, and Bahrain City Centre had a lacklustre appeal. In the drizzle and greyness, I assumed, wrongly, that the architecture was old, and not as luxurious as one which has been ruined for real life by the jet-set travel that SLT journalists such as myself have come to expect.

As I sat in the Mezzanine Lounge, licking the BBQ sauce from my chops, I considered the sad finality of leaving beautiful Bahrain, one of the most welcoming countries I’ve ever visited; a place of culture, sunshine and brisket sliders, to return to the dusty peninsula from whence I came, metaphorically summed up by my empty plate of brisket sliders. Only mere crumbs remained, but I was satiated.

The way the architects have integrated The Kempinski Grand and Ixir Hotel City Centre into the mall is similar to how its sister property in Dubai acesses the Mall of the Emirates, and far more convenient than connections to the Dubai Mall from its neighbouring hotels. If you were meandering around the mall, you would only see the charming cafe Tspoon, and if you took a pew and looked around, you would realise you were already in the hotel. It’s a very seamless transition. The mall itself has stores that Dubai Mall has only dreamed of having, without any pesky children running around excitedly, jabbering about the aquarium, covered in ice cream.

This just goes to show how much you can and should change your mind; a woman’s prerogative, some would say.

There are actually two hotels - the Kempinski Grand and Ixir Hotel, with two very distinctive personalities, separate entrances (although they are connected) and different restaurants, cafes and bars. The Ixir has a more conservative Arabic feel to it, whereas the Kempinski stays true to the stylish and modern decor that it’s known for; very purple (the colour of royalty) and luminous. After checking in, I had a quick tour and met Sari Mabire, the PR Manager for the Kempinski, who invited me to dinner in Saveur and over a gourmet version of a turkey dinner, we compared the neighbouring countries

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we live in, which differ greatly despite being geographically very close. Spent, and happily full, I retired to my room, sinking deeply into my soft bed.

Hammam The Kempinski boasts the only authentic Hammam in Bahrain. Having learned to arrive early to these kinds of things, I relaxed in the Jacuzzi for a while, softening my skin up before I was led to the Hammam. Standing in the huge marble room, it felt strange to be one person taking up all of this space, but no stranger than having someone wash you. After lying down on a towel, pails of hot water were tipped over me and I was thoroughly scrubbed; flecks of dry skin fell from my body like snowflakes, leaving my skin glowing and fresh. A swathe of bubbles floated over me, tickling my body, more hot water... and then came something rather more unexpected. To seal-in the effects of the hammam and close your pores, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re encouraged to sink into a pool of cold water. After having hot water poured over my body, I will admit submerging myself in the icy water produced a few shrieks and I barely managed to get in ankle deep and splash myself. Nevertheless, I felt hugely refreshed for it. After relaxing for a bit, and drinking copious amount of tea and water to re-hydrate myself, I walked out of the spa and into the sunlight, with a laid back attitude and sleepiness I can attribute entirely to the magic of the Hammam staff.

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Bakarat After gorging myself on breakfast at Saveur, where I had eggs benedict and a waffle, the idea of brunch was quite daunting. However, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to retain my journalistic integrity and report on every restaurant that comes my way. With that in mind, I dragged myself to Bakarat, the resident Arabic restaurant, to partake of its cuisine. Brunch in Bahrain, it turns out, is a lot less scandalous than in Qatar. It was a relaxed affair, with delicious Lebanese cuisine and the usual range of brunch delicacies. My rules for brunch are simple: stick to the starters, munch your way through the sushi, salads and smoked salmon, ignore the main courses and go straight to dessert. This way, you get to taste a little bit of everything without requiring a postbrunch siesta.

The Pool Despite being December, the weather was fairly warm, so I took myself to the pool. With a bar area and an infinity pool, I swam

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A swathe of bubbles floated over me, tickling my skin, more hot water... and then came something rather more unexpected. a few lengths before deciding to set up in the outdoor Jacuzzi. In the warmer months, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d imagine it would be a great place to come with friends and grab a few drinks while in the pool, but unfortunately for me, it was a little too chilly.

The Mezzanine Lounge Back at the Mezzanine Lounge, where the delicious sliders can be found, I reclined in one of the media pods. The Kempinski operates as a business hotel as much as it does a leisure Â&#x201E;

destination, and the media pods have been designed to facilitate some much-needed time out for the business traveller; simply pull the curtains round the table for some privacy, relax on the sofa, charge your various devices and flick through the channels as the staff bring you refreshment. This setup works very well for the non-professional, too. The media pods are a great place for a quiet date, or a small private party, or even a few hours away from it all, where you can order as much food as you want and zone-out with the tv. In my case, it became a place to plan my imminent return to my favourite new country.

Bahrain Formula One Grand Prix The home of motorsport in the Middle East once again hosts the Formula One Grand Prix, on the 5th to the 6th of April. Kempinski Grand & Ixir Hotel Bahrain City Centre offers a number of sweet deals for the motor enthusiast, including the “F1 Diamond Package,” which invites guests to stay in the prestigious Diamond Suite. The package includes Main Grand Stand race tickets, a surprise VIP F1 gift and transportation to and from the race. The hotel is also hosting an exhibition by Armin Flossdorf, a renowned F1 artist, whose work can be seen in the both the Kempinski Grand and Ixir Hotel.

Out and About Farmer’s Market A few years ago the Farmer’s Market started up in Budaiya Garden. It runs from December to June, taking advantage of the colder months. Even if you’re not a local and don’t need to buy fresh fruit and vegetables, it’s well worth a trip to the Farmer’s Market. Not only is the park a lovely place to walk around in the sun, it’s also a great place to grab breakfast. The gardens are very popular with the locals, who can be seen lounging on blankets and having picnics. The sweet aroma of al fresco cooking is the cherry on top. Block 338 Manama’s cultural centre is Block 338, where the Al-Riwaq Art Space was hosting the yearly art festival Market 338 when I visited at the end of last year. I managed to catch the final day of the art festival, where young Bahrainis were selling their wares, from funky custom made t-shirts to homemade fizzy drinks. It was well worth a wander around, basking in the winter sunshine and taking in the street art and creativity happening around me. The art gallery, Al-Riwaq, has some interesting installations and a cafe, making it a fun place to hang out and absorb some culture.

(Left) The Kempinski is centrally located in the heart of Manama, offering the perfect base for exploring the city.

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style confidential

Fashion Forecast

Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper

Get sorted for spring and ahead for autumn, starting with the lowdown from London Fashion Week AW 14 from the designers and front-rowers, themselves!

With 76 shows adding up to almost 96 hours of non-stop fashion over just five days, it can only be one thing: London Fashion Week. The jet-setting style elite and star-studded front row were out in full force to get the first glimpse of our autumn must-haves. “London is like nowhere else,” explains Kelly Osborne, who we spotted at the John Rocha show. “London Fashion Week has now replaced what New York Fashion Week used to be,” she added. So we headed to some of London’s most style-savvy front rows to find out what the A-listers make of London’s best in show.

The collection: Floaty autumn florals and dreamy boho prints. Designer insight: “Fashion is about making you smile. Your esteem is often based on the way you look and I think that is what Burberry is about.” Christopher Bailey MBE

BURBERRY The Burberry show always attracts some serious A-list attention, and this season it did not disappoint, with the boys and girls of British music out in full force. Harry Styles, Tinie Tempah, Paloma Faith (who performed to close the show) and actors Bradley Cooper and Naomie Harris took to the front row for an array of swirling and wistful water-colours.

“Burberry is subtle and classy.” Harry Styles

“It’s a very prestigious brand with great heritage.” Tinie Tempah

Burberry..

“Burberry is so honest and true to its British roots.” Paloma Faith

Burberry..

. sur la terre . style confidential .

Henry Holland..

henry holland

Topshop Unique..

With his bevvy of cool kids on the front row, including pals Harry Styles and Radio 1’s Nick Grimshaw, Pixie Geldof and Lily Allen, Henry Holland needed to put on a party-pumping show, and the sequins, bright faux fur and retro sunnies did just that.

The collection: Loud and proud disco-ready must-haves. Designer insight: “The show is debauched debutantes. It’s the idea of a debutante ball that’s accidentally found itself on Facebook and been trashed.” Henry Holland

“He comes up with stuff you would never have thought of.” Eliza Doolittle

“Henry Holland’s collection is colourful; it’s beautiful.” Lily Allen

topshop unique High Street favourite Topshop has really made its mark on the London Fashion Week circuit and had a front row to rival the best of them. Kate Moss and her sister Lottie, Kendall Jenner, Poppy Delevigne and Daisy Lowe made it a very starry affair.

The collection: Luxury daywear with a 70s twist. Designer insight: “It’s about English heritage, but our girls are rebels. There are beautiful soft delicate prints and a different silhouette for us.” Emma Farrow, Head of Design

“I shop at Topshop all the time with my sister.” Kendall Jenner

. sur la terre . style confidential .

Arme de L’Amour

Bracelets and rings are joining forces to create a brand new accessory to add to our collection – the handlet, which is quite simply, a bracelet for your hand. Be inspired by Sarah Jessica Parker’s Fenton Fallon cuff and adorn your day or evening ensemble with a chunky style cuff to fit snugly into your palm. We love this gold-plated cuff by L’Arme De L’Amour, which will bring a tough luxe edge to spring’s feminine florals. For a more delicate approach, a subtle chain version such as Rosantica’s bohemian-inspired “Penelope” handlet made with golddipped brass and green agate beads adds a chic finish to off-duty attire.

Sarah Jessica Parker..

Hand-cuffed Maria Black

Pamela Love

Rosantica

All available at Net-a-Porter.com

. sur la terre . style confidential .

GET A GRIP

New season, new bag. Yes please! Midi on the rise With news of Mulberry’s drop in profits (shares recently plunged by 27%), and the rising cost of designer handbags, with most costing upwards of £1000, the “midi” bag is quickly making its way to “it bag” status. Setting you back a more respectable £350 - £650, yet still not lacking in quality and craftsmanship, a mid-range tote is a savvy purchase. Go for brands such as See by Chloé, LK Bennet, Coach, Hobbs and Whistles for your next arm candy crush.

Betty bag , Hobbs

Extra baggage Searching for a handbag with baggage? Look no further than www. itsvintagedarling.com. Their collection of vintage clothes, home wares, bridal wear and accessories are all hand-picked from around the globe to bring you a fab selection of vintage and retro goodies, each with more gusto to its name than, “new for SS14.” We love this 1960s beaded clutch bag in mint.

Rihanna

The bum is back Another more surprising bag that is storming the style charts is none other than 80s icon, the bum bag. Though not the most likely contender for a comeback, once style siren Rihanna is spotted in one, then it becomes fashion gold. Bum bags, both designer and high street are selling out like hot cakes, so if this tidy little carry all (phone, wallet, keys and gloss check) tickles your fancy, then this Marni option from Net-a-Porter. com is chic yet practical.

Bon bons If you are heading to Paris this month or know someone who is, be sure to put one of these tropical inspired bags on your shopping list. Design duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the two parts that make up New York fashion label Proenza Schouler, have launched a specially-curated capsule collection for Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche in Paris. The bags, as well as scarves, T-shirts and sweaters, will be available in-store as part of an exhibition running until March 22nd.

Marni bagx

. sur la terre . style confidential .

GLOBETROTTER

Where: GLASTONBURY. What: Glastonbury Music Festival When: 25th to 29th June www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

Where: NEW YORK What: Met – The Metropolitan Museum of Art Charles James : Beyond Fashion When: 8th May to 10th August

Where: GENEVA What: Nuit des Bains When: 22nd May www.quartierdesbains.ch

www.metmuseum.org

Where: SAINT-BARTHELEMY What: Les Voiles de Saint-Barth When: 14th to 19th April

Where: MONACO What: Grand Prix F1 When: 22nd to 25th May www.grand-prix-monaco.com

www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com

Global Gatherings

Where: PANAMA What: IFF – International Film Festival When: 3rd to 9th April www.iffpanama.org

Global Gatherings is your at-a-glance

map of magnificence, directing you to all of the culturally essential, entertaining and luxurious events and happenings that will be taking place across the world (or perhaps, we should say, “sur la terre”) over the coming months.

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

Where: BRAZIL What: FIFA World Cup When: 12th June to 13th July www.fifa.com

Where: PARIS What: Roland-Garros When: 24th May to 8th June www.rolandgarros.com

Where: ST. PETERSBURG What: White Nights Festival When: 28th May to 5th June www.balletandopera.com

Where: BASEL. What: Art Basel When: 19th to 22nd June www.artbasel.com

Where: MILANO What: Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fashion Week When: 21st to 25th June

Where: BEIJING What: Art Beijing When: 30th April to 3rd May

www.fashionweekdates.com

www.artbeijing.net

Where: CANNES What: Festival de Cannes When: 14th to 25th May www.festival-cannes.fr

Where: SINGAPORE What: World Gourmet Summit When: 26th March to 5th April www.worldgourmetsummit.com

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

GLOBETROTTER

nightlife

SHOPPING

GQ Bar Dubai

Bugatti

Where: Dubai, UAE GPS: 25˚ 11'07.95" N, 55˚ 15' 28.36" E

Where: Hong Kong, China GPS: 22˚ 16' 57.07" N, 117 ˚ 09' 48.17" E

Did you know that Conde Nast doesn’t just have an empire of magazines, but is well on its way to conquering the competitive restaurant world, too? GQ, or Gentleman’s Quarterly to those in the know, is Dubai’s newest and coolest hangout. A sleek bar and restaurant that embodies the refined spirit of the magazine, it encompasses a two-storey bar, a fireplace in the lounge area and a global magazine wall. It’s the kind of place where young dandies and gentlemen can be seen quaffing signature cocktails, which include scandalous libations such as "Crime of Passion" and "Pommie Punch," and modish couples go on swanky dates. GQ Bar can be found in the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel in Business Bay, making it a perfect post-work pit stop for cocktails. www.gqdubai.com

Bugatti, the legendary sportscar manufacturer with a curiously Italian name despite being French (although it is now owned by Volkswagen), opened its latest luxury showroom in the cosmopolitan city of Hong Kong at the beginning of 2014. The first exclusive showroom in the region can be found in the heart of the financial and business district of the citystate, the unveiling of which also marked the 19th country in which the French marque is present. Boasting a Lounge and Configuration Area, the team is in close contact with the Bugatti factory in Molsheim in France. Customers can choose from an endless range of colour and trim options to tailor their Bugatti to the most individual specification, and truly put their own stamp on the iconic marque. www.bugatti.com

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

HOTEL

restaurant

One&Only Reethi Rah

Hand & Flowers Restaurant

Where: Where: Maldives GPS: 4˚ 31' 13.84" N, 73˚ 22' 01.08" E

Where: Marlow, UK GPS: 51˚ 34' 32.66" N, 0.46˚ 57' 15" W

Has anyone ever needed encouragement to think of the Maldives as a paradise on earth? With 130 private villas along the beach, 98 villas secluded in the jungle and 32 water villas set above the clear, protected waters of the lagoon, One&Only Reethi Rah is one of the largest villa resorts in the world. However, it is the Grand Sunset Residence nestled in the island’s natural greenery, with the largest stretch of private beach and the resort’s largest villa, that comes with the SLT seal of approval. With three bedrooms, a private swimming pool and an outdoor dining area that comes complete with its own chef, Bang & Olufsen sound systems, sunken fire pit, shisha lounge and a pergola so guests can enjoy treatments or yoga, Grand Sunset Residence will set you back a mere $15,000 a night. www.reethirah.oneandonlyresorts.com

With dishes on the menu like “South Coast Sea Bass with Cep, Oxtail and Baby Gem Tarte Fine,” and “Demi En Croute of Whole Baby Truffle with Foie Gras and Port,” you can see why this country pub has two Michelin stars. In fact, it’s the only pub with that honour in the entire UK. Suitably rustic, Hand & Flowers Restaurant has a provincial charm that is not necessarily associated with fine dining, but Tom and Beth Kerridge, who started the pub in 2005, have combined strong British flavours with authentic French cuisine. Hand & Flowers Restaurant can be found in the picturesque Georgian town of Marlow, and unlike most Michelin star restaurants, the pub boasts four luxurious cottages where you can stay if one meal at the pub just isn’t enough. www.thehandandflowers.co.uk

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

i n fo cu s

Trouble with The Curve While the number of people achieving "high net-worth" status continues on an upward curve, car sales at the top echelon of the market aren't following suit. Bentley’s Director of Sales, Marketing & Aftersales, Kevin Rose, waxes lyrical about the challenges facing the crowded high-end automotive segment and ponders how the concept of luxury car ownership might have to evolve to overcome them.

hen we talk about the luxury car market, I think the most important thing is to put it in to some perspective. It’s about 50,000 cars a year, probably a little bit less at the moment. That’s in a total global car market of more than 60 million, so it’s just a little piece. It has grown over the last few years, with the recovery primarily coming from China up until the last year or so. However, we are seeing growth in the US, Europe and definitely here in the Middle East, though it is still not back to the level of 2007. From our point of view, that means success is relative. It’s about trying to be the most successful brand in this particular part of the market. We’ve got our obvious competitors: RollsRoyce, Aston Martin, and so forth, but there is also strong competition coming from the likes of Mercedes-Benz, BMW and Porsche, all of which are introducing more premium models. While they are not direct competition, it’s becoming a crowded market without growing. What is fascinating, though, is why sales remain constant year-on-year when there is a continued upward growth curve in the number of people achieving high net-worth status. There are three categories, there’s “high net-worth,” the millionaire next door as they say, probably quite relevant here; “very high net-worth,” which is between five and 30 million dollars of liquid assets; and then there is “ultra high net-worth.” The middle category is the interesting one, because globally there are about 1.4 million of these people who can easily afford to buy whatever they like, but are not buying luxury cars. It’s a dilemma for us, because if we can tap into that and get people excited about buying a luxury car, then that would open up the market quite significantly. There are probably a number of reasons for this malaise. However, the key issue is that the car has become no more than a commodity. The task for us is to make a Bentley more of a possession than just a functional entity; a beautiful thing to own and enjoy owning. Equally, it’s true that a lot of people with this kind of money live in cities, so owning a car is not a particularly essential or a practical thing to do. Interestingly, I met one customer not so long ago who said, “I’ve got a Bentley, but I didn’t realise it was mine. It pulls up outside my home or office, takes me somewhere and then brings me back, but I genuinely didn’t realise that my company owned it.” It makes you wonder how

many of these guys probably own a luxury car, but don’t realise it? There are clues in there, maybe, for the future as well. We are doing some work on this and trying to understand it more, but it is one of the interesting aspects of where we are in the marketplace. Bentley currently has around 25 percent of the luxury car market, but our challenge is, I think, staying ahead in a market that is not growing all that much and is being pushed from underneath by the likes of Mercedes-Benz. We have to maintain our uniqueness, keep our position and then try and find a way to persuade more people to come and buy - and enjoy - a real luxury car. I think those are similar challenges faced by watch manufacturers; for example, you can buy a Seiko watch that does all kinds of stuff. It probably tells you when it’s going to rain in Kuala Lumpur, or something, but I would still rather have a Brietling that just tells me the time, but does it exceptionally well and with style. I always talk about watches because they offer such a good reference point. A watch is a truly international product. You can buy one anywhere and you can wear it anywhere. Cars are not; we are unusual in the luxury market in that we make these great big things that you can’t just pack away when you want to move from country to country. This is significant, because wealthy people today aren't as geographically bound by their businesses as they were 40 or 50 years ago. The traditional entrepreneur with a factory, making things using materials from suppliers nearby, doesn’t really exist anymore. As such, there is a new internationalism, whereby it’s not the product that’s mobile, but the customer. We have to think very, very carefully about this, because it means the very wealthy in Dubai and so forth, are probably not spending more than 50 percent of their time here. So maybe, in the future, it could be that we show the cars here, we show what they can do, but where people actually buy it is another thing entirely. Perhaps the market will evolve to incorporate a different kind of ownership, whereby you buy a Bentley and you don’t have the car physically in one place, but wherever you are in the world, there is "your" Bentley. It doesn’t necessarily mean that you own it in a traditional sense, but you can always enjoy it. We are doing a lot of research into this and looking at these behaviors because, within them, there could be the answer to being reasonably successful and very successful in this market.

. sur la terre . feature .

â&#x20AC;&#x153; S pri ng is the time of pla n s a n d projects .â&#x20AC;? - L e o To l s t o y, A n n a K a r e n i n a

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

u p close a n d per so n a l

A Man of Vertu Interview: Laura Hamilton

Now that every Tom, Dick and Harry has a smart phone, it’s time to up the game with something truly luxurious. SLT speaks to Vertu's new CEO, Massimiliano Pogliani, a man reaching for the stars with the new Vertu ConstellatioN. It's the product he hopes will will propel the company To post-nokia success and erase the brand's reputation for crafting beautiful products which don't always stack up in the technology department.

ow has Vertu’s relationship with Nokia changed, now that Nokia has sold its majority share in the company? When Nokia created this company ten years ago, it was the luxury division of Nokia. It was very important for us that Nokia was there in terms of investment in the beginning. Only a big company, that was very successful could provide us with the financial means to start our operations, but then it started to become a disadvantage because we were linked to it, and its way forward was divergent from ours. At that point in time, we thought the best way was to separate, and we were bought by EQT, a private equity company which was keen to push for growth and we were able to choose our technological platform. Even when we were using Nokia technology, the design and materials were aways our own. We had to learn about the technology and now we have our own software engineer, our own technological engineer and everything is handmade in England. Nokia retains a 10% financial participation, but they are no longer involved in making decisions. What is the difference between a Vertu phone and any other smart phone on the market? With an iPhone or a Vertu, the functional benefit is the same. It’s like driving in a car, it will get you from A to B, but if it’s a luxury

car, then it will feel different. In the past, our technological specs were inferior to what the normal market was offering. We were using a completely different technological platform, the old Nokia. Now we’re an independent company and we can choose our own way forward, so we changed the operating system and moved to Android. For us, technology must be there, people are very tech-savvy these days, everybody is used to having technology at his or her fingertips. However, what is the end point for all the other phone companies, for us is just the starting point. We look at how we can build around the beautifully-crafted object and also offer selected services that make the overall combination unique. What are the services that Vertu offers? It depends on the phone. Constellation offers Vertu Life, our lifestyle service and Vertu Certainty, whereas TI offers an extra service, Vertu Concierge. With Vertu Life, all our customers have access to exclusive, closed door events, like the Oscar ceremonies, London Fashion Week or the opportunity to buy a special luxury object, and all of these are updated on a constant base. There is a full team in Vertu dedicated to working on it in conjunction with other brands. The more you use Vertu Life, the more we can tailor it to your tastes. We can see if you prefer music, food or art and make our offers to you more relevant.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

It also has to match the titanium and leather and keep its weight at a level that’s acceptable. These considerations take a lot of time. What is the market like in the Gulf for Vertu? Along with the Asian market, this is our biggest. In general, the Middle East is a very interesting place for the luxury market. Given the price of our phones, which are ten times more than your average smart phone, this isn’t a phone for everyone. You need to have a certain level of wealth to be able to afford it. This is a part of the world where there is a high concentration of a lot of wealthy people; but again, wealthy people who have developed a high level of understanding and discernment. They travel around the world, they know what quality objects are, so they want to buy an object which is handmade. Vertu’s products are made of a combination of refined materials, which require a level of expertise and craftsmanship to put together. I don’t want it to be everyone’s phone, I’d actually like us to have more competitors, because it will allow the luxury category to be enlarged. At the moment, we are a category of one, I would say.

"the end point for all the other phone companies, for us is just the starting point."

What are your ambitions for the future? We will continue to look at the customer base and continue to identify what they want. When we talk about “high net-worth individuals,” we’re talking about individual people. A community of people is not all the same, be it split by a gender, age or geographical perspective. There are still possibilities to further segment our offerings with a different combination of design materials, services or price points. By staying on the upper part of the market, we are not going to compete with the lower part. The US market, for example, is one in which we are still very small. Previously, we didn’t have the right phone to break into it, but with our new collection, we do. From a geographical point of view there is a big opportunity for growth. We need to deliver a perfect equilibrium of design, material, craftsmanship, service and technology at the same level. When you are selling a luxury item, the customer looks at it aesthetically and likes it, and then they start asking what it can do, but the first feeling has to be an appreciation of design. Then you start asking about the technology, then services... it’s a build-up and overall, our product is unique.

To access these events, you can use the ruby button at the side of the Constellation. Vertu Certainty is for the peace of mind of our customers, who always want to stay connected. We collaborated with Ipass, the world’s leading commercial wi-fi network, so we offer a special deal. Customers have access to 1.3 million hotspots around the world, with unlimited data, which is perfect for anyone who travels all the time. We have also collaborated with Silent Circle, a private communications firm that deals with encrypted text, which has developed a special version of the application for us and is complimentary for one year. When you use the application, all your communication is totally secure and encrypted; you can communicate with another Vertu device, without fear of hacking. For the business community and VIPs, this is essential. Vertu Concierge is the customer service access in the phone. If you have a a problem or a question, they can assist you remotely with your permission and reconfigure the phone for you. How long does the product take from conception to the market? It takes around 18 months. We are, of course, working on the products that will come into fruition in the next three to five years. The shorter the developing period, the more compelling you can be on the market; not just in terms of technology, but you can be more appealing in terms of colours and design. Constellation has a sapphire screen which is 100 karats and takes two weeks to render. It consists of a layer of anti-reflection, a filter, a touch screen; it’s a lot of technology.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

u p close a n d per so n a l

An Eaterrogation of Alain Ducasse What better way to celebrate the one-year anniversary of IDAM than with a chat with the chef behind it? Sur La Terre meets the man with the most Michelin stars in the world, Alain Ducasse. Â&#x201E; Interview: Laura Hamilton Pictures: Von Wyli Penaranda

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been very oriented towards the garden; in Provence, I grow my own vegetables. 66

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

s an advocate for healthy eating and sourcing local food, why did you decide to open a restaurant in Doha? It all started with the unique success of the Museum of Islamic Art, and how we could link that with gastronomy. We looked at what the local clientele wanted; culinarily speaking, what they appreciated, and then it took three years of hard work. We wanted to capture what they eat at the local market, and blended those local tastes together to create a French Mediterranean cuisine with an Arabic twist. The expectations were high; HE Sheikha Jawaher bint Abdulaziz al Thani came to Paris to try out dishes and we worked very hard to be precise. Then, two years ago, when the shape of the food was coming together, we finally looked at the beverages. There was a lot of sharing and discussion, and it took a long time to develop it to be harmonious with the Museum. The concept and process is the same in every restaurant, but every one of my restaurants is unique in itself. It’s haute couture for me. Monaco, Paris, London, Doha - they are my four collections! So you’re a designer of food? Chef creator! I carry the vision, along with the executive chef, and the culinary line is very clear. It’s a creative and collaborative process. My corporate chef has been with me for 20 years; he supervises everything and we share ideas on a daily basis. We are supportive of all of the executive chefs and we are involved in everything. Can you tell us about the food you create for astronauts? Eight years ago, I was approached by the European Space Agency. All the astronauts travelling around in space, they have a problem: there is no good food! We worked at it for three years before we came up with something. Now, we are the only ones offering haute gastronomy to Chinese, American, Russian and Dutch astronauts ... all the people who go to space buy our food. It’s not the everyday food we make for them, however, it’s more special than that. It’s important to take time around the table, although they are there to work, not eat! On a special occasion, however, they have this menu offered to them, and it’s a nice treat. It was such a special project, something we’d never even thought of before. It was good for the brain!

vegetable I’d never even heard of before, a mix of tomato and red pepper. It was amazing. What do you think of “foodies?” Fantastic! I think they’re fantastic. They’re passionate. We should only have foodies! They’re curious, they have high expectations, they’re never happy! I never like habits, you should never get stuck in a rut and foodies are always looking for something new. I don’t mind if they take photos! I love their enthusiasm. What’s your favourite restaurant? Mine! I love a lot of restaurants. Anywhere that is really good.

Alain Ducasse’s Favourite Restaurants Alain Ducasse name-dropped a few restaurants during the visit, and if Ducasse, (a man who has, throughout his career, been crowned with 21 Michelin stars,) likes a restaurant, you know it’s something special. The “best burgers in the world” can be found at Honest Burgers in London, Dabbous in London is run by “a fabulous young English chef” and Tom Kitchin, of The Kitchin in Edinburgh is “the best Scottish chef in the world”.

Global Gatherings Recently, there has a been a paradigm shift in how we see food. The focus has changed from dieting to be skinny, to eating clean to be strong. On the 27th of May in 1987, we started a menu in Monaco that was entirely cereals and vegetables. One or two or three guests would order the menu back then, and now 25% of the guests order it, so it is becoming more popular. It’s a menu based on the seasons, so it changes every day. There is less salt, fat, butter and oil. This is what they eat in the Mediterranean - I was inspired by what was around me, this way of eating. I’ve always been very oriented towards the garden; in Provence, I grow my own vegetables. What do you think of juice diets? Do you consider them healthy? I think it’s healthy. I actually tried it once, but now I only drink a juice shot in the morning, which is a mixture of ten juices and spices. When I tried it, I spent eight days only drinking juice - I survived!

What do you like to eat? Everything that is good! I ate at Gordon Ramsay’s last Tuesday in London. He’s done a lot for British gastronomy, I think that he’s very important. Has your palette changed over the years? When I’m travelling, my palette keeps developing. I discover tastes that I have never come across before. I travel six to eight months a year; last year, for example, I went from Hong Kong to China, to the Philippines, then Peru, Brazil and Denmark. So I ate everywhere, and I was surprised. There is always a place with an artistic cook that will surprise you with what they are doing. There was a restaurant next to the train station in Machu Pichu, somewhere in the middle of nowhere, which served a

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

acc e s so r i e s Photographed by Ian Abela: www.ianabela.com Styled by Mélanie Hearnden: www. justmelane.com Special thanks to Michel Vuadens, Pulp68, Jim Zbinden and his snake Chaussette

Time to play

Spring

is here and it ' s time to hit the street with

chunky sports watches and skater- cool accesories with a funky, retro feel .

"Big Bang Jeans" watch by Hublot "Pilot watch d’Aéronef" by Zenith "Premier Feathers" watch in limited edition by Harry Winston "Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph" by Harry Winston "Steel with Maori bridge" watch by Manufacture Royale "Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronograph" by Omega "Rendez-vous Night & Day" watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre

. sur la terre . accessories .

"Tribu" shopping bag by Longchamp Basket by Philippe Model Fuchsia wallet in crocodile leather by Todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sunglasses by Illesteva

. sur la terre . accessories .

Bag by Paul Smith Y-3 painted sneakers by Yoji Yamamoto Y-3 skateboard "Haitian Vetiver" perfume by Ermenegildo Zegna Nintendo Micro System Donkey Kong 3

. sur la terre . accessories .

. sur la terre . in motion .

i n m oti o n

Aqua-drama If you had to pick the best looking v12-powered Lamborghini, which would you choose? The Muira? The Diablo? The Aventador? Suprisingly, we would probably disagree, because the most glamourous Bull of them all isn’t even a car... Words: Kevin Hackett Images: Riva-World / Sante Crepaldi / Silvano Marini

amborghini: the name found on the world’s most exciting and outrageous supercars and the surname of founder Ferruccio, who 51 years ago turned the motoring world on its head by attempting to beat Enzo Ferrari at his own game. So many achievements, so many accolades, it’s difficult to know where to begin telling the story of this stalwart of the supercar establishment.

What if we were to make a list of the really glamorous machines graced by that name? Obviously, the timeless, heart-breakingly beautiful Miura would top the bill, but what about those with enough room to seat four normal-sized adults? The stunning 1970s Espada, yes? Actually no. The most glamorous Lamborghini of all isn’t even a car. It’s a boat. Ferruccio Lamborghini, long before setting up a car company, was a wealthy industrialist who enjoyed the trappings of that personal fortune amassed through manufacturing air conditioning units and agricultural equipment. He owned Ferraris, he had houses and lots of land, but the ultimate plaything for millionaires in the 1960s was a Riva Aquarama and Ferruccio ordered one of those, too, in May 1968. Has any boat before or since conjured up such emotion as the Riva Aquarama? As iconic as the Miura itself, the Italian craft was a darling of the beautiful ones; the jet set in an era when conspicuous consumption was carried out with taste, style and panache. The Aquarama was expensive – almost twice the price of Ferrari’s road cars at the time – but the sheer gorgeousness of it was enough to have the great and the good finding space for one on their private jetties. With a distinctive, wraparound windscreen and a sunbathing area and separate front seats, this lacquered legend is still, decades later, viewed as the epitome of sophistication on water.

. sur la terre . in motion .

This page: The two mighty V12 engines as they looked in 1968 and as they look today post-restoration; Ferruccio Lamborghini at the helm of his Aquarama; (below) The fully restored boat in all its glory. Opposite page: (Top) Doing what any Lamborghini does best: looking good going fast; (below) Ferruccio showing the Riva top brass a Lamborghini V12 and pitching his idea to drop two of them into his Aquarama.

Ferruccio, however wasn’t sold on the idea of American small-block V8 engines powering the Aquarama he’d been allocated, and he tasked Riva with installing a couple of his own V12s. Can you imagine that? The world’s most glamorous boat powered by not one, but two of the world’s greatest engines? A marriage of convenience it was not, but Lamborghini got his way and, after the required redesign and reengineering to make them fit, he took delivery the following August. Problems soon reared their heads. His Aquarama had been fitted with upgraded Borg Warner transmissions normally used with big-block V8 engines, to cope with the extra power produced by the V12s, but it wasn’t enough. Designed for use in his sports cars, those engines generated power and torque at higher revs than was suitable for a boat, and Riva had to send its chief engineer to Ferruccio’s boat, which he kept at his second home in Cervia. The engines were removed and the American V8s retrofitted, after which Riva basically washed its hands of the problematic project. Ferruccio remained convinced that his Riva should be powered by his own, superior and more powerful V12s, and had his best engineers make some pretty complex alterations to them so they were more suited to a marine application. This worked because Ferruccio had them reinstalled and he went on to race his Riva in a couple of championships in 1969 and 1970, after which he used the boat with less and less frequency, no doubt due to his renewed interest in farming after ridding himself of his troubled car company.

In 1989, those engines were once again removed and the boat was sold with two V8s under its flanks. The Aquarama, as you might expect, began to succumb to the elements and it remained languishing in a rather sorry state until it was rediscovered in 2010 in an Italian boatyard. According to the man charged with its painstaking threeyear restoration, Sandro Zani, who founded a company called Riva-World after restoring his first Riva 12 years ago, Lamborghini’s boat was remarkably complete, with its bespoke fittings all present and correct. Apart, that is, from those two V12 engines, one of which resides on display in the Lamborghini factory museum, the other in the private museum set up by Ferruccio’s grandson, Fabio, so two more had to be sourced to bring Ferruccio’s Riva back to the specification he had always intended for it. A German Lamborghini specialist supplied one, while another was bought from US collector, Gary Bobileff. Even so, a large number of parts had to be made from scratch and others were sourced from GT Car Parts

It was The world’s most glamorous boat powered by not one, but two of the world’s greatest engines.

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in Phoenix, Arizona, who allowed Zani to rifle through their stocks until he found whatever he needed. He says Fabio’s museum was also extremely helpful, granting him permission to borrow components from the original engine to copy and remanufacture. California’s Carobu Engineering manufactured the long-blocks and final assembly was carried out back at Riva-World in Uithoorn, Holland, with the modifications Ferruccio’s own engineers had made back in the late 1960s, while enlarging their capacities from 4.0-litres apiece to 5.5-litres. Apart from the two V12s, the Riva’s hull needed serious attention, too. It’s impossible to overstate how intricate the woodwork is on these Rivas and much of it needed replacing. Everything was stripped and cleaned and all the rotten timbers were replaced. As Zani explains, it’s impossible to disguise bad wood on an Aquarama because of the crystal clear lacquer that’s applied. Speaking of which, once the woodwork is complete, the varnishing, sanding and re-varnishing process takes at least three months. The results, as you can see, are spellbinding. With a deep gloss finish that looks like you could sink your hand into it, this unique piece of Italian maritime history is now better than when it was new. It has a new owner, too, who’s intent on showing it off at a number of boat shows in the near future, but its natural habitat is surely the glamorous Italian lakes, such as Como or Garda. To see it carving up the surface, bow up, stern down; to hear its epic soundtrack and catch a glimpse of those individual chromed letters on its rump spelling out the name of one of the motoring world’s most revered characters, will be to experience the unforgettable. Could this be the world’s most desirable boat? Right now, yes, it probably is. With thanks to Sandro Zani and Riva-World

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tr en ds confidential

The New Couture club With trainers at Chanel, raised hemlines at Giambattista Valli, goddess gowns with hoods at Versace and a young generation of starlets taking centre stage on the red carpet, is it all change for haute couture?

Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper

wards season might be big news for the film, TV and music industries, but it is also a pretty important time of the year for the fashion world; in particular, the lavish world of haute couture. This is the designers’ chance to get their gowns gleaming in the international media spotlight. With society’s current addiction to Instagram and Twitter, where every opinion, glance, back stab and stitch is caught on camera for the world to see (and where hats have their own accounts), there is really no room for error in the style stakes. That goes not only for the celebrities themselves, but also for the designers of those all-important red carpet masterpieces. Red carpet old timers, the likes of the Jolies, Therons, Bullocks and Blanchetts, don’t usually put a foot wrong when it comes to getting the dress right. Whether they play it safe in an impeccably-tailored classic gown (like so many of the stars did at this year’s Oscars) or take a risk with a more daring and statement flesh-baring number (how could we forget Elizabeth Hurley’s revealing Versace number), they know how to dress in and with the designs and designers that work for them. Recently, however, I have noticed a whole new breed of celebrities stealing the red carpet limelight: the young, twenty-something newbies. What really gets the cameras flashing and social networks buzzing (or even blocked) at such red carpet events, is the new generation of rising stars – the Jennifer Lawrences, Miley Cyrus’ and Biebers of our celebrity world. Take twenty-three year old actress, and face of Dior, Jennifer Lawrence. At this year’s Oscars, even though she tripped (for the second year running, but this time on the red carpet), it was her head-turning red Dior couture gown that caught our attention. She looked like a million bucks, and certainly won my prize for best dressed female. While such young starlets may get away with bedecking themselves in skimpy street wear, metallic boob tubes and leotards instead of dresses, and pull off high street separates day to day; on the red carpet, only

Chanel

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Chanel

Atelier Versace ..

Dior..

Chanel

haute couture will do. For haute couture, such a young crowd is a relatively new scene. Since the 19th century, haute couture has been ruled by old money, and its clientele a somewhat rare and very private breed of shopper… a very different type of woman to Miss Cyrus and Miss Lawrence, that’s for sure. I don’t suppose the ladies who make up what is known as the private members club of haute couture have the same taste as a barely out of school internet made pop star. One would never dream of twerking in one’s pyjamas, let alone in couture. So is haute couture ready for this new breed of wearers, and are the designers ready to adapt their gowns for this new and younger generation? Can haute couture become modern? If the latest SS 14 season of haute couture collections on show in Paris just a few months back are anything to go by, then yes, the designers are doing just that: bringing haute couture up to date. Famed haute couture heavyweights, including Chanel, Christian Dior and Armani Privé, all showed refreshingly modern collections fit for today’s contemporary woman.

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Look at Chanel, one of the true icons of haute couture since the early 20th century. This season, Karl Lagerfeld, who has been at the creative helm since 1985, brought his collection bang up to date, not only with a very wearable and relevant collection, but choosing trainers as his footwear of choice to accompany his dazzling gowns, suits and separates. I don’t think he could have made a bigger statement towards this new era of haute couture than putting his 65 models in running shoes rather than ballet flats or slippers.

There is no doubt too that Raf Simons designed his collection for Dior to appeal to this modern audience. He would be a fool not to, if he wants to keep his troop of young red carpet fans, which includes Jennifer Lawrence, and with whom he is ontrack to score a dress hat trick at the 2015 Oscars. “I see my SS 14 collection as almost abstract,” said the designer, whose dresses were fresh and relevant with a light and airy feel, yet beautifully structured. The intricacy and detail associated with haute couture was still there in abundance with layers of minute embroideries and intricate fabric lattices, pleats and folds that without a doubt took endless hours of patient and extremely talented seamstresses. Mr. Simons pulled off classic elegance but with a contemporary twist.

Now, when I say running shoes, these are not any ordinary trainers. Each shoe has been handmade at heritage shoemaker Massaro’s workshop in Paris and then embroidered, bejeweled and chiffon-laced. As well as the trainers, Mr. Lagerfeld injected a very youthful feel to the collection with the clothes themselves. Jackets were T-shirt shaped with chopped sleeves and barely visible buttons and pockets, trouser suits dressed down, skinny trousers were teamed with hip-skimming tunic jackets and skirts were buttoned and A-line, and the gowns, dropwaisted and feathered. These were clothes designed to appeal to the younger generation and with twenty-one year old “it girl” of the moment, Cara Delevigne as his muse, he couldn’t be better placed to pull in some new couture fans. While the more old school clientele may prefer a kitten or stiletto heel with their SS 14 gown, Mr. Lagerfeld is adamant that trainers can be worn with couture. “Why shouldn’t they be at couture? It’s just flat heels,” he remarked. If Karl says it goes … it goes!

Ralph & Russo..

It has been nearly a century since a British couturier has been invited by the powersthat-be, the Chambre Syndicale in Paris, to show in its official haute couture schedule. This season saw British couture house Ralph & Russo closing Paris Couture Week, and with only an estimated 2,000 haute couture clients around the world, Ralph & Russo’s 500 is a stonking achievement just six years since it began. So what is their recipe for success as modern haute couturiers? “We do really feminine pieces. Our designs are modern and young, but classic; feminine and elegant, but glamorous,” explains designer Tamara Ralph. “They are flattering to the female form and we always do a beautiful waist,” she adds.

Chanel wasn’t the only maison to do away with the skyscraper heels. Schiaparelli showed feathered pool sliders and Raf Simons put some of his models in hand-beaded trainers with their Dior gowns. Even Donatella Versace took her heels down a notch or two, as well as creating eye-catching draped and hooded goddess gowns and a studded romper suit, all very appealing to a younger crowd. “I love to combine the traditions of couture with the daring of contemporary life,” explains Donatalla. She clearly knows her audience and understands what they want: “They are young… with gorgeous bodies, and they want to wear unique clothes.” Italian-born French couturier Giambattista Valli agrees, “They are fresh, sexual, contemporary and international,” he says of his new couture clientele. “They are wearing couture but in an easy way,” he adds. Mr. Valli has interpreted this “easy couture” by raising his hemlines, showing a stunning collection that included some gorgeously wearable mini dresses with large peplum shaped skirts; the epitome of easy elegance.

Dior also made a bold move this season to focus on a new generation of designers, staging an exclusive fashion show of their SS14 collection for over 50 fashion students from the most prestigious fashion schools around the world. They also opened up their atelier doors for select students to give them a glimpse of the magic that is haute couture. What a way to inspire a new generation of designers! This is an important move for the future of couture, as being accepted into this exclusive world of fashion is no easy task.

Ralph & Russo..

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In this very short space of time, Ralph & Russo have got it right - understanding that to keep couture relevant today for all its clientele, it requires just the right blend of the classic and the contemporary. Whether Cara Delevigne and co, the Duchess of Cambridge and fellow royals or the long-standing wealthy women hidden behind closed wardrobe doors believe it or not, all women want to look good. Some may just do it in sparkly trainers, while others prefer sticking to heels. We lie in wait to see if Cinderella’s fairytale ending will be rewritten with Prince Charming searching for his Princess to live happily ever after, with a trainer in hand rather than a glass slipper!

LOO K BOO K

Languid beauty

Take a truly feminine approach to spring with billowing fabrics, delicate pleats and a whimsical pastel palette.

CATWALK MOMENT:

Burberry

Dior and Burberry both added a pop of colour to their relaxed and neutral palette with a splash of green.

Dior

TOP TIP: When it comes to hemlines, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid of floor-skimming maxi skirts or under-the-knee dresses.

SKIRT Giambattista Valli at Net-a-Porter.com, SKIRT Paul & Joe at Net-a-Porter.com, DRESS Hobbs, SKIRT Marks & Spencer, DRESS No. 1 Jenny Packham at Debenhams, DRESS Marks & Spencer, BLOUSE Lanvin at Net-a-Porter.com, TOP Marks & Spencer, DRESS Marks & Spencer, DRESS Miu Miu at Net-a-Porter.com, BLOUSE Phase Eight

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prints charming There is nothing simpler than shorts and a T-shirt, but make sure your winning pair is spring-ready and bursting with pattern and prints.

Image courtesy of River Island

T-SHIRT Next, SHIRT Diesel at House of Fraser, T-SHIRT River Island, T-SHIRT Givenchy at MrPorter.com, T-SHIRT McQ Alexander McQueen at MrPorter.com, T-SHIRT AMI at MrPorter.com, SHORTS Next, SHORTS Givenchy at MrPorter.com, SHORTS House of Fraser, SHORTS Mantaray at House of Fraser, SHORTS Folk at MrPorter.com, TRAINERS Asos.com

TOP TIP:

While tropical prints are a foolproof way to inject some print into your look, try florals, geometrics and even the fruit basket.

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BEAUTY

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The Alchemy of Aroma Sur la Terre sniffs out the olfactory origin of legendary perfumery and grooming house, Penhaligon’s of London. Words: Steven Paugh Pictures: Penhaligon’s

t first glance, you would be forgiven for mistaking the name Penhaligon’s for one perhaps more closely associated with British myth and lore; that being Pendragon, of King Arthur surname fame. And yet, that coincidence, while perhaps merely nominal, is also a happy one. Like King Arthur and his illustrious court, the Penhaligon’s name is likewise steeped in a rich British lustre; a history of royal, even mythic proportions. To the already enlightened, the Penhaligon’s story conjures in its telling a world where sorcery and swordplay are swapped for an equally magical and scintillating discovery that can only be described as extrasensory, harkening perhaps not from a “king of dragons,” but rather, as is its name’s meaning, the “high land of willows.” It is a place where irresistibility was

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“T

hough we may be over 140 years old, that doesn’t mean our techniques are ancient, exploring new fragrance technology is at the very heart of what we do. From CO2 extraction to nature print technology, each bottle contains a blend of the very old and the very new.”

first breathed on the oftentimes bitter British wind, where the very nature of fragrance was divined, distilled and bottled. This is the tale of Penhaligon’s perfumery; it is a story of kings, of catalysts and aromatic alchemists, and it spans a lineage of over 140 years. It is said that William Penhaligon, founder of the brand that bears his namesake, was blessed from youth with an inquisitive mind. Born in the small southern UK town of Penzance in Cornwall, William’s curiosity soon grew beyond place and later led him to move to London in the 1860s, a fateful venture that would lead him from obscurity into a place of timeless history. In an age of uncommon economic growth for the UK capital - and within the excess that subsequently ensued - William quickly established himself as a well-known purveyor to the elite as a hairdresser at the Piccadilly Turkish Baths on Jermyn Street. It was here that William developed his affinity, familiarity and understanding of the perfume business. Once again, William’s natural interest in experimentation pushed him to discover potent new potions of sundry scents, and after establishing his reputation and knowledge foundation as a barber, he used his now-honed skills and client base to found the Penhaligon’s perfumery in 1870, on the very same street where he got his own auspicious start. There followed, with the creation of the house’s first scent, Hammam Bouquet (1872), a bona fide cavalcade of fragrance, including Blenheim Bouquet in 1902 (created specifically for the 9th Duke of Marlborough at Blenheim Palace, whose title passed to Winston Churchill, a regular user of the fragrance), English Fern in 1910 and Douro Eau de Portugal in 1911. Much like his odiferous elixirs, so too did his name’s renown begin wafting through the upper echelons of the country, and secure him his own footnote in the annals of time.

A Very British Bouquet:

Far from turning their nose up at his skill, the British Royal Family under Queen Victoria soon recognised William’s talents and appointed him the Royal Barber and Perfumer to her Court. It was this position which then begat a veritable litany of Royal Warrants awarded to the Penhaligon’s name, granted first by Queen Alexandra in 1903, then by the Duke of Edinburgh in 1956 and

Penhaligon's continues to bottle its fragrances in the United Kingdom and maintains the traditional bottles and packaging that made it famous.

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of course, The Prince of Wales in 1988, each one firming the brand as a regular provider of goods and service to the Royal Family throughout the ages. Of course - through really no fault of the brand’s own - it wasn’t always a steady climb for the Penhaligon’s name. Racked by war in the mid-20th Century, London was bombarded by The Blitz, and in 1941, the Penhaligon’s base on Jermyn Street was destroyed, perhaps ironically, by the Germans. However, a lineage this potent could not so easily be diluted, and in 1975, at the behest of Italian film director, Franco Zeffirelli, the shop was reopened in Covent Garden by industrious author Sheila Pickles, who saved the Penhaligon’s name and business from a then-relative obscurity and reaffirmed its position within the social ether as a household name to the British elite.

in crystal-clear glass and crowned with a ribbon about its stopper. Within these bottles, there remains the same blissful marriage of scents there always has been at Penhaligon’s, rendered lovingly from natural ingredients and those created by the historic perfume house’s hand-chosen fragrance aficionados. As the brand says, “Though we may be over 140 years old, that doesn’t mean our techniques are ancient, exploring new fragrance technology is at the very heart of what we do. From CO2 extraction to nature print technology, each bottle contains a blend of the very old and the very new.” Like the fragrances with which it has become inseparably known, the Penhaligon’s name taps into a kind of sense memory that has been proven lasting, lingering in history’s halls and undoubtedly perfuming the future with equally as strong a resonance.

Over time, the awards and accolades garnered by Penhaligon’s have become almost as legion as the multitudinous, iconic perfumes and colognes associated with it. Because of that - and much like William himself - it has transcended its position and become a truly international brand, with a presence in Japan, South Korea, Russia, Ukraine, America and Singapore, amongst many others. At the same time, however, Penhaligon’s remains a uniquely British institution, a notion echoed in its traditional packaging, which is still made in England and distributed in hand-finished bottles. Indeed, the signature appearance of Penhaligon’s wares ruminates with the evocative spirit first used by William those many years ago, with tinctures encased

Fragrance Profiling One of the hallmark services at Penhaligon’s is the brand’s commitment to what it calls “fragrance profiling.” According to the brand, the fragrance experts there explore each customer’s favorite smells, but also their memories and the personal associations certain scents have with an individual. In so doing, they build a “personality profile” based on fragrance families (citrus, floral, oriental, etc.), carefully noting the reactions to each scent. The purity of this process is staunchly maintained for each customer by keeping the name of each fragrance hidden. Thus eliminating “visual clues,” the exercise becomes one of an entirely olfactory nature, and is further nuanced by exploring the finer notes of each scent and discovering their reactions with individual skin chemistry. After about 30 to 60 minutes, a singularly-catered fragrance presents itself, along with a pot of tea, biscuits and a glass of champagne. As the brand says, “It’s the best way to ensure a match made in heaven,” a sentiment with which we here at SLT most certainly agree.

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“ You ca n cut all the flowers but you ca n not keep S pri ng from comi ng .” - Pa blo Ne r u da

fe at u r e

All Revved Up Once again, the automotive marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2014 started with Swiss cheers, as the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s manufacturers, big and small, gathered for the 84th iteration of the Geneva Motor Show. Words: James McCarthy Pictures: Newspress / Koenigsegg

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ith the heady aroma of a slight economic recovery in the US and Europe getting the pistons pumping, nobody minded that the Chinese economy has stalled slightly and that India hasn’t quite taken off as a viable market just yet. The halls of the PALEXPO were brimming with optimism.

The Maserati Alfieri concept

While many, including some of the luxury segment, pushed the electric and hybrid agenda (arguably with considerable success if you consider the semi-mythical McLaren P1 and Porsche 918), there was plenty to suggest that this region’s petro-carbon wealth is safe, and perennial rumours that the big-bore internal combustion engine is ready to join the choir invisible are still greatly exaggerated. The launch of a new V10 Lambo, the Huracán we reported on last issue, is testament to that, if nothing else. However, there was something else, plenty of it, too. It starts with a chap called Alfieri and he once wielded a Trident to devastating effect.

Alfieri Rides Again Yes, as you can read about on page 116 in our celebration of the marque’s centenary, Maserati, without revealing all the spoilers in our Origins feature, was the brainchild of one of four brothers. It’s fair to say that Maserati was keen to kick off its 100th year with a roar, and Il Tridente’s concept was, arguably, the best looking of this year’s show. In a bid to reconnect with its sporting heritage, and in honour of the founding father, it was named the Alfieri. A slick four seater that’s billed as being "sportier in character than the GranTurismo," it still packs the same 4.7-litre, naturally-aspirated V8 which drives 460 Modena ponies through a six-speed sequential gearbox. The gorgeous design was overseen by Lorenzo Ramaciotti, a former chief designer for Pininfarina who was responsible for designing the Quattroporte, not to mention countless Ferraris and Alfa Romeos. Inspiration was drawn from the classic 1954 Maserati A6 GCS, but it is carried into Maserati’s second century by some clearly modern additions, like LED headlamps, 21-inch wheels and LCD instrumentation throughout its minimalistic cabin. Rich Poltrona Frau leather covers every surface that isn’t anodised palladium-coloured aluminium. All of that is crowned by a special exhaust layout that reportedly produces a “breathtaking” sound. Maserati recently won huge critical acclaim for its Superbowl advert, which suggested that the marque would soon be a giant-killer. A hundred years ago, Alfieri Maserati took on the then giants of motorsport - the Auto Union and Mercedes - and stood victorious. There is a suggestion in automotive circles that a Maserati with the name Alfieri can, once again, take on the giants - this time of luxury sports coupés - on a level playing field. Maserati has to build it first, though, it is only a concept after all. However, I think I speak for a significant chunk of the world’s petrolheads when I say, by taking a leaf out of the Hollywood book of tropes that Maserati borrowed for the Superbowl: “build it and they will come... and they won’t question why.”

Along Came A Spider Alfa Romeo’s 4C was a highlight of the show last year, and no less so was its topless stablemate, the 4C Spider, this year. Gone is the roof and instead we have rollover bars, spoilers and a windshield frame all made of carbon-fibre, lightweight canvas and, of course, Italian magic. As a result, the 4C Spider has piled on just 59kg more than its solid-topped cousin.

One thing that remains unchanged, other than its striking family looks, is the 1.75-litre, four-cylinder turbo, which delivers 0-62mph in 4.5 seconds and hits a top speed of around 155mph. The Spider also has the same sixspeed, dual-clutch gearbox, the 40/60 front/rear weight distribution, but has enjoyed a slight facelift with, oddly, less bug-like headlamps.

perennial rumours that the bigbore internal combustion engine is ready to join the choir invisible are still greatly exaggerated. A new central exhaust system made by Akrapovic, a company more associated with two-wheeled street fighters than two-seater roadsters, which is hewn from aluminium and titanium features on the Spider, offers an electrically-operated valve system that is designed to improve performance and enhance the exhaust note for some emotive top-down driving at the push of a button. While Alfa’s marketing team referred to it as just a design preview, the company has since said that it is due to start production of the 4C Spider by Spring 2015. Just in time for a Summer drive over Jebel Hafeet.

Disco Inferno While Alfa Romeo’s Centro Stile has been knocking out the classics of late: the 4C, the aforementioned 4C Spider and, of course, the eye-wateringly pretty, limited run 8C Competizione, it has been outdone by legendary Italian coach building house, Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera, with a reworking of one of its own cars no less. Aficionados and regular viewers of British motoring TV show, Top Gear, will have recently seen Jeremy Clarkson haring around the Italian

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Alfa Romeo 4C Spider

Touring Disco Volante

countryside in a Touring Disco Volante. For those that didn’t, it’s essentially an even more prettied-up and even more exclusive version of the Alfa 8C.

suitably deep pockets, will be customised to their exact specifications. That’s one reason why it is so hard to pin a price on one; after all, if you have to ask...

Alfa only built 500 of the 8C, but that makes it positively ubiquitous compared to the eight examples of the Disco Volante which Touring will produce at its atelier in Milan. Based on the rolling chassis of the 8C, the compact 4.7 litre, V8 engine and the sequential, transaxle gearbox, all that remains when Touring is finished is the dashboard, and that’s only for the legal paperwork.

The Disco Volante, which means “flying saucer” in Italian, clearly has the hint of a futuristic, yet retro, sci-fi design language, without it looking kitschy and, well, retro. Unsurprisingly, perhaps, it is inspired by the 1952 Alfa Romeo C2 designed by Touring, a “car-of-the-future-today” design icon, as there is no doubt, the Disco Volante will be considered in years to come. Which is why, if you have the cash to invest in an 8C, only to watch touring dismantle it, then charge you goodness-knows-what to rebuild it as the Disco Volante with all the trimmings you want, then there is no question that you should. It is most definitely a future classic of tomorrow, today.

Other than that, every one of the eight cars, most of which (if not all, by the time you are reading this) have already been sold to enthusiasts with

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The Koenigsegg Agera One:1

The fact that it is rarer than an un-hatched unicorn egg means that the rest of us will just have to make do with those everyday supercars. You know, like those Bugatti Veyrons and Pagani Zondas that you see all over the place.

One:1 Direction

Other headline-grabbing stats include the fact that 3D printing was used to produce a patented variable turbo housing, which the company claims gives improved response and bottom end torque, as well as using the technique to create a 3D printed titanium exhaust end piece, which saves an important 400 grams compared to its aluminium counterpart.

From the sublime to the ridiculously extreme, we arrive at Koenigsegg which, to celebrate its 20th birthday, introduced the Agera One:1 – the world’s first and only car to have a 1:1 power to weight ratio. That’s one horsepower per one kilogram. How many is that, you ask? A bottomclenching one-thousand, three-hundred and forty-one, to be exact.

The Scandnavian marque also notes that the One:1 is also the world’s first Megacar. Yup, forget those Supercars and Hypercars, the land of the midnight sun has given us the world’s first homologated, four-wheeled, one megawatt powerplant. It’s simply a jaw-dropping titan of a vehicle.

The mind-bending insanity of the car’s stats can be pinned on its twinturbocharged, 5-litre V8 that, in addition to the 1,341 horsepower, puts out an equally tarmac-shattering, eyeball-bleeding 1,011 poundfeet of torque.

Want one? Unfortunately, unless you’re one of the lucky half-dozen gazillionaires who have already stumped up the US$2.4 million required to reel in this automotive Moby Dick, then you’re out of luck, as all six of these track-eating beasts have already been claimed.

Even on road legal rubber, the One:1 can pull around 2Gs of cornering force, with just some clever electronic active ailerons and other aero bits to keep you from spearing off into oblivion. You know, things like a hydraulically-actuated, top mounted rear wing and independent, left and right flaps under the front splitter, which Koenigsegg claims will stop you taking off like a small fiery jet with 610kg of downforce at 160mph. It says nothing about helping to stop your head exploding, though one would probably suggest some kind of helmet. And some rubber underwear.

The Best Brits Fortunately, keeping its head, while all around, other makers were clearly losing their minds, was, of course, the epitome of the Stiff Upper Lip: Rolls-Royce. No fuss, but all of the frills adorn the new Ghost

While the company hasn’t offered up any figures for the time it takes to get to 60mph from a standing start, we suspect it’s because the speed of light is quite a complicated volume of digits. However, the car, according to the company, can potentially hit a top speed in excess of 270mph. At least, that's what the simulator says, as no-one has been silly enough to try it yet. Koenigsegg was able to achieve these staggering numbers thanks, in no small part, to a 20 percent lighter carbon chassis and body, due to the implementation of “M46J & M55J high modulus fibres,” apparently. No weight is spared in the cabin, either, with in-house developed carbon fibre ventilated memory foam racing seats also adding lightness. Colin Chapman would be proud.

Rolls-royce Ghost Series II

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Ferarri California T

Series II. It's essentially the same as the outgoing model, but benefits from a host of minor updates. The styling has been subtly revised, you’ll notice an ever-so-slight facelift on the front with a “squintier” headlight array, while the sumptuous cabin space has been updated with a new infotainment system, rotary controller and trim, most of which is borrowed from the recently unleashed Wraith. The 6.6-litre twin-turbo V12 remains, but it is now mated to the Satellite Aided Transmission technology that uses GPS data to "read" the road ahead and choose the right gear for approaching corners and blind bends, again, adopted from its nefarious fastback brother.

The headline news is not the gorgeous styling, with newly-designed front end, created to evoke memories of the great Fezzas of the fifties, nor is it the automotive origami that is the retractable hard top which turns it from a coupé to a spider in under 14 seconds. Is it the 49 percent more torque and 15 percent less CO2? Not really. It is the new 8-cylinder turbo engine. Maranello's engineers have created an entirely new power unit which Ferrari claims will deliver absolutely superb levels of performance, blistering pickup and “the most exhilarating soundtrack any turbo has ever yielded.” The Prancing Horse-whisperers also reckon that it is also the first time virtually zero turbo lag has been achieved on an engine of this type, guaranteeing

Arch rival, Bentley, showed off its muscular Continental V8S, and the new GT Speed - the fastest production Bentley ever. Unveiled in both coupé and convertible form, its 6-litre twin-turbo W12 engine has been tuned to deliver 626 horsepower to all four wheels. While the previous Supersports could reach 204mph, the new GT Speed can hit 206, while the drop-top GTC Speed is quoted at 203 mph, one tick faster than the Conti Supersports convertible. Both the GT and GTC Speed have benefitted from the styling of the V8S, too, with the defined muscular haunches, a more purposeful stance, highlighted by the pronounced shoulder line that runs through the length of the car. The Crewe crew are on a bot of a roll with this lot and, if the GT Speed is the fastest ever, we look forward to the inevitable Supersport refresh later in the year. Aston Martin's Vantage N430 took its motor show bow. A lightweight, hardcore version of the V8 Vantage boasts 430 horsepower driven bay a 4.7-litre V8 and looks for all the world like a hungry shark waiting to devour a Cygnet. The 0 to 60mph sprint takes 4.6 seconds and the car can hit speeds up to 190mph, all to an armageddon-inducing soundtrack thanks to its retuned exhaust. If that doesn’t float your boat, Aston will fit a 1,000-watt Bang and Olufsen stereo. A six-speed manual gearbox is fitted as standard, while a seven-speed Sportshift II automatic is optional. The N430 is available in both coupé and convertible variants, but regardless of which body style you choose, you'll be getting weightsaving carbon-kevlar seats and lightweight, ten-spoke wheels and a rather epic paint job, harking back to the glory days of Le Mans in the 1950s.

California Dreaming We finish our round up in California for tea, Ferrari California T, to be precise. Supposedly the entry-level offering for the famous Maranello marque, the new California T offers more bang for your buck than ever.

Aston Martin Vantage N430

instantaneous response to commands as good as its naturally-aspirated power units. The 3.9-litre, turbocharged V8 delivers 560 horsepower and can cover the distance between 0 to 62mph in just 3.6 seconds. The car also boasts a new steering box, improved magnetic dampers and an upgraded traction control system, which, when coupled with that new Pinifarina design, is sure to make California the most sought after motoring destination this year.

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A rto pi a

Mona Hatoum is one of the most intriguing and mysterious artists in the world today and is making her GCC debut with a new exhibit, Turbulence, at Mathaf in Doha.

the art

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of turbulence Words: Laura Hamilton Pictures: Herbert Villadelrey

athaf is well-known for its challenging and evocative exhibits that don’t pander to the masses, giving a much-needed platform to Arab artists in Qatar. Its latest exhibition is Turbulence, Mona Hatoum’s first in the GCC. Considering Hatoum’s origins lie in Palestine via Lebanon, although she now splits her time between the UK and Germany, it is surprising that her work has never before been exhibited in the region. She has courted controversy for performance work, with her penchant for using body hair in her artwork, and is unsurprisingly extremely critical of the political fallacies that dog the region. She also defies expectations, being both a feminist and very politically aware. The exhibition has a dreamy quality, but it would be simplistic, if tempting, to feel we are offered a look into Hatoum’s head; that these works are indicative of her personality, that to see the exhibition is to understand her. “I have to be satisfied with the work myself first,” Hatoum explained, “But it is always created with the viewer in mind and the space where it will be first shown. In fact, most of my work is initially created for a specific exhibition, a specific space and therefore a specific audience.” Turbulence, is a carefully-crafted exhibit curated with the audience in Qatar in mind. Indeed, Hatoum visited Mathaf a year ago to check out the space and plan her exhibition with curators Sam Bardaouil and Till Fellrath, who have collaborated twice with Mathaf before. “Till and I usually think of curating as conducting an orchestra,” said Bardaouil, “You have so many different instruments, and your job is to make them come together and create an experience. It’s a form of storytelling, you take your audience on a journey, and at certain times you want them to stop and take notice of something you’ve highlighted.” Turbulence begins with Bunker, a series of sculptural structures depicting the war-torn landscape of Beirut placed in Mathaf’s lobby. The 22 schematic structures are caught between construction and destruction; it looks like the architecture is half-finished, but it bares the evidence of shrapnel, from the various conflicts that plague Lebanon. It’s a bold start; Bunker dominates the room and demands attention and inspection.

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"most of my work is initially created for a specific exhibition, a specific space and therefore a specific audience."

It would be wrong, however, to merely look at her work in a political framework. Hatoum and her two curators are quick to dispel the idea that her work is purely political and place the emphasis on the formalism of her work. “You hear the title, Turbulence, and you think it’s going to be very politically overt,” noted Bardaouil. “But you come and realise it’s predominantly a statement about the dichotomies in the work; formally, aesthetically.” On entering the exhibit, the first of her works you are confronted by are Daybed, a cheese grater that has been grossly enlarged so it resembles a piece of furniture; Paravent, which is based on a three-part folding grater and looks like a room divider; and Le grande broyeuse, which is a kitchen implement used for slicing vegetables. The three works are domestic in nature, but on a larger scale they become violent; like instruments of torture. “The cooking utensils are great examples of her feminism,” mused Fellrath. “And this is maybe one reading, but we are made to rethink

an object that we see daily, when it is shown on a larger scale.” It is, perhaps, a lesson in reevaluating what we consider normalcy. One of the most hypnotic works is + and -, a comment on the cyclical nature of life and time, of destruction and creation. A motor-driven rotating arm going anti-clockwise both creates grooves in the sand and wipes them out again. It’s repetitive, but oddly calming to watch; a work of art that creates and then destroys itself. A metaphor, perhaps, for Man’s inhumanity to Man, and the notion that everything that can be made, can be unmade. For a contemporary artist who has had such a long career, Hatoum is surprisingly sanguine about the longevity of art. “I don't believe that art has to last forever,” she explained, “Otherwise, I would not have engaged in creating performances for over a decade or in using perishable or unstable materials in some of my installations and sculptures.” With a cinematic feel, Over My Dead Body is an arresting piece. The most aggressive work in the exhibition, it is also the most confrontational. Hatoum shares its evocative title with 19th century Catalonian artist Ramon Casas, and although the two artists worked in different mediums, both depict a woman resisting and defying danger. The work is a bridge between Hatoum’s performance work and her visual art, and in some ways it feels like another photograph of her performance work, which is documented around the exhibit. In the photograph, Hatoum uses herself as a

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protagonist, dwarfing the toy soldier that is climbing up her face, threatening her. However, it is Hatoum that has the power. The toy soldier is like an annoying fly she cannot swat; her size and her expression dominate the photograph. Although Hatoum’s work can be seen through a feminist lens, she doesn’t want to be labelled as one. After all, definitions are limiting. “No one wants to be labelled a “female artist”. There’s more to her than being a female artist, even though she may choose to explore that,” explains Fellrath. One of her more playful works is Suspended. The installation is composed of red swings that sway as the viewers walk in; suspended from the ceiling by transparent wires, it appears they are hanging in the air. On each seat, a map of a different city is engraved. Reducing the city to a rectangle, a swing which is constantly in motion, swinging back and forth suggests a constant flux of migrants, in and out of the cities. Although the swings are red, traditionally the colour of a warning and blood, the swings have a ludic quality to them, as if it would be fun to play on all the swings, to live in all the cities. At the edge of the same room is the piece that gives its name to the exhibit, a sculpture of transparent glass marbles. Turbulence seems a very negative name to give to a work of art so beautiful, but it is slightly eerie and ethereal. The light shimmers around the handmade marbles and the colour distorts as you move around it, suggesting it’s an organic mass. It could be a metaphor for people, the small and irregular marbles, piled on top of each other, either in unity or in a desperate struggle. Hotspot shows that Hatoum’s focus is a lot wider than her lineage might suggest. The giant globe looks like a wire cage; using orange as a warning colour, the neon wraps around the whole globe - there are no crisis hotspots in the world. “What’s really important about Mona’s work is that it’s universally relevant,” explained Fellrath. “When you look at Hotspot, it makes it clear that there are no political borders. I think it’s important that these topics aren’t always framed here in the Middle East; these kind of conflicts, they exist all over the world. Mona herself has spent more than half her life not living in the Arab world; she’s as much British as she is German, to a certain extent. I think people will resonate with the criticisms inherent in her work, raising awareness of conflicts, whether they are internal, or whether they are political.” Despite the state of disturbance that the title of the exhibit suggests, there is an element of vulnerability in Hatoum’s work. It’s a theme that runs through her performance work, which has been captured on video and displayed around the exhibit. “In some of my early performances,” Hatoum

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explained, “I did put myself in vulnerable situations as a metaphor for the vulnerability of the individual to certain social, political systems of control and various constraints. “There can be a political nuance to the work; sometimes it recedes into the background, sometimes it’s more pronounced,” continued Bardaouil. “At the end of the day, the main focus is not about aligning itself with a certain political agenda or opinion, it’s a personal exploration of how these political axes manifest themselves, in a condition of tension, ambiguity, border, grappling with stability.” On the opening night, the exhibit was packed, and swathes of people poured around, stopping to admire certain works, being entranced by others. It was one of Mathaf’s most popular exhibitions to date. “Contemporary art is niche,” admits Bardaouil, “Turbulence will definitely relate to Qatar, because people are very culturally and politically informed, and I think they will look at the political connections in a different way. We always encourage people not to frame the work in a strictly politicised way; it’s about the formal quality of the work. If the art happens to relate to human rights or politics or feminism, that’s always secondary when it comes to Mona.” Mona Hatoum's Turbulence will exhibit at Mathaf until 18th May

fa s h i o n

Photographed by Ian Abela: www.ianabela.com Styled by MĂŠlanie Hearnden: www. justmelane.com Hair by Quentin Lafforgue & Christophe Durand : www.lebaldescreateurs.wordpress.com Make-up by Adeline Willi: www.lebaldescreateurs.wordpress.com Models : Fiona Couzon & Bruno Fabre courtesy of VIP Models

RAIL AGAINST

The MaChine This season is expressed through vivid block colours and bold, lively prints that combine to embody a youthful and rebellious street style.

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Her “Folklore“ printed blouse by Hermès “Folklore“ printed skirt by Hermès Platform block heel sandals by Navyboot “Possession“ rings in white gold with diamonds by Piaget “Possession“ earrings in white gold and diamonds by Piaget Orange and white “Ivy Classic“ bracelet by Van Der Bauwede Geneva “Calla“ necklace in pink gold and Kogolong by Vhernier Him Printed polo by Gant Pale green short by Hugo Boss Green loafers by Boggi

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Blue jeans shirt by Fendi Pink cotton trousers by Boggi “Rebel“ sneakers by Hogan “Full black and skull bridge“ watch by Manufacture Royale

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“Olga“ painted canvas and silk top by Leonard Denim jumpsuit by Paul&Joe (Bongénie) “Tatoo” sneakers “Rebel R182“ by Hogan Yellow “Tondo by night“ watch by de Grisogono Yellow gold earrings and bracelet, set with diamonds, lapis lazuli and chrysoprases by Cartier Y“Giotto Piccolo“ turquoise / chrysoprase and rose gold necklace by Vhernier “Cardinale“ turquoise / chrysoprase and rose gold necklace and “Spire“ rose gold ring by Vhernier

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White shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna Pink pullover by Ermenegildo Zegna White coton trousers by Ermenegildo Zegna Kangaroo leather loafers with braided band by Ermenegildo Zegna â&#x20AC;&#x153;El Primero Synopsysâ&#x20AC;&#x153; watch by Zenith

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Purple georgette combi by Eres “Brazil“ Maxi Twilly shawl by Hermès “Gum Tee Shirt“ cuff with black mat soft and pink gold finish by Dior “Pan di Zucchero“ ring in pink gold, turquoise and rock crystal by Vhernier “Re Sole“ ring in pink gold, sugilite and rock crystal by Vhernier Green “Big Bang Pop Art“ watch by Hublot “Pan Di Zucchero“ earrings in pink gold, girasole quartz, sugilite and rock crystal by Vhernier “Neige du Sahara“ carbon necklace in white and yellow gold with diamonds by Adler

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Rose lambskin and vison bolero by Inès&Maréchal (Picibi) Tie & Die tank top by Fine Collection (Noa) Striped jogging by NSF (Sab’s ) Blue sandals by L’Autre Chose (Picibi) “Vegetal Spirit“ earrings by Van Der Bauwede Geneva “Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial“ watch by Omega “Allegra“ ring in grey gold with black diamonds, yellow, orange and pink sapphires by de Grisogono Monogram shawl by André Saraiva for Louis Vuitton

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Two tone leather jacket by Fendi White t-shirt by Gant Blue jeans by Boggi Red suede derby by Navyboot “Grande Seconde Quantième“ with blue Côtes de Genève watch by Jaquet Droz

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Blue printed silk jumper by Gant “Boyfriend“ jeans by NSF (Sab’s) Belt by Haute Hippie (Picibi) “Miss Dior“ mini bag in lambskin by Dior Necklace in white gold set with diamonds, onyx and lapis lazuli by Cartier “Red Carpet” bracelet by Harry Winston “Caftan” earrings by Harry Winston

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h o r izo n s

Eat, Malay, Love Laura Hamilton goes the furthest east she has ever been and takes you through her Malaysian meals.

s one eats kimchi, one eats the universe, and in so doing becomes part of the universe and the universe becomes a part of man.” - Anonymous It was the last meal in Kuala Lumpur and I had insisted we go to a Korean restaurant - at this point we’d been to a fancy

Malay restaurant (more on that later), a couple of Chinese restaurants, a vegetarian Indian restaurant, a Japanese restaurant and a few others. We hadn’t, however, tried a Korean one and I had seen several advertised round town, calling to me with a rumble of stomach and the allure of kimchi. The way it rolls off the tongue, kimchi sounds like a term of

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One of Kuala Lumpur's many orante mosques.

skyscrapers. Suria KLCC is six floors of expansive high street and high-end shops. My favourites were Kinokuniya, a Japanese bookshop where they curiously cling-film the books, so you can’t flick through them, and the bizarrely named British India, an Indian brand that had beautiful silk, and shirts with men playing polo on elephants embroidered on them. However, we were on a mission, and after wandering around Bukit Buntang for a while, trying to resist the street food, we found our destination.

endearment, a promise, a caress. It sounds and tastes a lot better than what it means - marinated cabbage. I used to mock my father, who measures his holidays by the meals he has, but it is the folly of all progeny that they turn into their parents. Bulgogi, thinly sliced marinated beef, so soft and tender after being barbecued that it almost melts in your mouth, was the clear winner that night, as we piled fluffy rice onto our plates and held our chopsticks aloft. When I think of Malaysia, I think of food, of dishes I can barely pronounce, of outdoor cafes, of menus where I want everything, of fig juice, sushi and nasi goreng. Eating is a national past time; the restaurants were full, I was continually out-eaten by tiny women, but I didn’t put on any weight, actually I lost some. As Malaysia is a multi-cultural, multi-ethnic melting pot (try saying that three times fast) there are a lot of different cuisines represented, all authentic, all delicious and when I landed in the airport my mission was clear: eat all the food. Expecto Petronas! My brother and I were keen to go to Hutong in Lot 10, a gourmet heritage village in a mall that is very popular with Malaysians. But first, my parents had planned to meet their friends and former Qatar expats outside Suria KLCC, a luxury shopping mall not far from our hotel, which sits below Kuala Lumpur’s most famous skyscrapers. After hopping in a cab, we jumped out and stared up at the immense towers in front of us. Dominating KL’s skyline are the Petronas Twin Towers, built in the 90s, my parents’ friend worked on the construction and told us that he personally went to the jungle to pick out the palm trees that decorate it, although I’m sure he also had some more technical responsibilities in the creation of the skyscrapers. Although we didn’t manage to make it up to the observation deck, which requires prior planning if you want to avoid the lengthy queues, I did check out the mall inside after craning my neck to look at the 452m of glorious

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Hutong was not what I was expecting. We took an escalator down into the labyrinthine hub of activity where there were over 40 different and busy cafes, humid and full of fresh cuisine. The aromas washing over me were enough to put me in a daze, and after circling the area trying to choose the best cafe, I was sorry I couldn’t eat at every single one. We sat down on a little table beside two diminutive Malaysians, and tucked into a huge bowl of noodle soup with meatballs, our stomachs thanking us. It is well worth a visit for the smell alone. www.lot10hutong.com Culture and Enak Of course, there are hours to fill in between meals, and Malaysia is a beautiful and interesting country. We travelled to the Batu Caves, a religious site just outside Kuala Lumpur. A giant golden statue stands guard next to the caves, which you reach by climbing up a few hundred steep steps. A word of warning: this is not for those who suffer from a fear of heights or vertigo. However, if you can manage it, the monkeys lining the walk up to the caves make it worthwhile; baby monkeys hugging their mothers and cheeky monkeys unscrewing tourists’ water bottles and taking a sip, and the view from the top was amazing. While the caves are about as interesting as caves get, it is eerily spooky to wander around inside them, and look up at the sky through the cracks. Down at the bottom, sticky with sweat, we drank Gatorade in an attempt to try and re-hydrate. We all needed a nap. After using my journalistic skills, I found a Malay restaurant that had a fair amount of hype behind it. Malay food is often forgotten; the myriad selection of pan-Asian cuisine on offer overshadows it, but I thought it was important and indeed necessary, not only to seek out some authentic Malay food, but to do it in style. After donning our glad-rags, we headed to Starhill Galleries, one of the most luxurious shopping spots that has a host of fancy restaurants. After walking through a wall of glitz, which makes you feel like a VIP or an A-lister, we sat down in the intimate restaurant and found out Enak had prepared a special tasting menu; a boon, considering we were out of our depths when it came to ordering dishes. Anticipating gourmet goodness, we sat there, rubbing our hands with glee and smiling as the sommelier appeared. We started with Udang Kempompong Daun Selasib, prawns wrapped in fresh basil and fried

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"Quick, Robin. To the Batu Cave!"

wonton skin, a perfect mix of textures, and then moved onto Ikan Bakar Kulat Paku, butterfish marinated with lemongrass, which was delicious; the fish was surprisingly meaty and went well with the lemon. The star attraction, however, was the Sotong Sumbat Kelapa Muda, fresh squid stuffed with coconut and chilli; two things of which I am not particularly fond, but somehow work together. Spicy enough to give a kick to the coconut, the marriage of the chewy texture of squid and the desiccated coconut was sublime. After that came Ayam Lengkuas Bayam Merah, which is boneless chicken with red spinach, but frankly paled in comparison to the coconut squid. Finally came the Manisan Kelapa Mud Enak Pisang Raja, a duo of desserts, creamy custard and caramelised banana in bite-size portions. As vulgar as it may sound, I would suggest venturing to the bathroom, where the water in the sinks is powered by pumps; a cute nod to the past, although it feels quite colonial for someone to be pumping water for you to wash your hands. www.enakkl.com Not so down with Chinatown Is there anything better than wandering around a tea shop, buying pretty porcelain and smelling loose leaf tea and then meandering to the cafe next door for dim sum? Despite my brother’s desperation to get his hands on chilli crab, we couldn’t find any and instead settled in a little cafe that was chosen purely for the sheer number of dim sum wooden boxes that were steaming there. Apart from the odd shop selling tea with Chinese decorations, Chinatown was a disappointment with hoards of people buying the kind of fake goods you see in a lot of cities these days. However, there is much to be said for seeing your dim sum being personally steamed for you. My brother tried chicken’s feet, but I felt that was a step too far. Next to Chinatown is Central Market, an Art Deco building that is well worth a look. Outside it’s surrounded by stalls where you can find all sorts of things from sculptures to Nepalese jackets to Afghan jewels.

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Traditional Chinese architecture in Malacca

A beautiful cheongsam caught my eye, navy silk with a floral pattern. Modern enough not to look dated, but vintage enough to look interesting, the shop tailored the traditional Chinese dress to fit me like a glove. Try a coffee from one of the many cafes - a curious mix of milk and soy makes it taste like a chai latte. Malacca's melting pot Although Kuala Lumpur is not the sort of place of which you can easily tire, we fancied seeing more of the country. The reason there are so many different cuisines available in the country is that Malaysia has an interesting history, long and convoluted, that bares influences from many other countries and cultures. The Portuguese, the British and the Dutch have left their respective colonial imprints, and immigrants from China have left a mark too. I never felt this fusion so acutely as on our brief visit to the melting pot that is Malacca City. Hotter and more humid than Kuala Lumpur, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage site and only a few hours away from the country’s capital. As Malaysia’s train system is unbearably slow, we decided to get a taxi, which came with a guide, who was rather annoying and insisted that we stop at every juice stall to describe the very authentic fruit on offer, which cut down on important wandering around and “looking at stuff” time. I would, however, recommend avoiding any churches as they were quite dull. Cheng Hoon Teng, the oldest still functioning temple in Malaysia, on the other hand, is quite amazing. A Chinese temple practising the Three Doctrinal Systems of Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism, it was honoured with a UNESCO award for architectural restoration. The 17th century temples are remarkably intact, and the detail on the shrines is amazing, the spiral dragons and the carvings were magnificent and so vivid for a building so old. An interesting peek into an aspect of Malaysian culture can be found at the Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum. Malaysia, as previously mentioned, is multi-ethnic, which is why it is considered to be “Truly Asia.” One of the most prosperous groups was the Perankan Chinese (descendants

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of whom now refer to themselves as Malay-Chinese), the 15th and 16th century Chinese immigrants to Malay, who created the hybrid culture that still exists today in Malaysia. The museum is three terraced houses that have been owned by the Chan family since 1861. Tiny and immaculately preserved, they offer a glimpse into the life of Baba and Nyona Chan, who were very prosperous farmers and filled their beautiful house with Chinese silk and elaborate furniture. We can thank the Perankan for the delicious influx of Chinese cuisine in the country. www.babanyonyamuseum.com

Where To Shop Kuala Lumpur is known for its luxury shopping - there are some great Asian brands I discovered that I had never heard of before. Suria KLCC and Pavilion are among the best malls to peruse high-end brands; huge and airy, Pavilion has a Japanese section on the top floor where you can find interesting boutiques (and sushi!). On A Cloudy Day on Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar is also a good boutique full of electric luxury brands and is well known amongst the locals. Where To Stay There is no shortage of five star hotels in Kuala Lumpur. Shangri-La boasts the most magnificent views of the city, while The Majestic Hotel used to be the hotspot during World War II and retains an old school charm and style. Le Meridien has a more contemporary feel and is located behind KL Sentral, the train station. Where To Eat Tamarind Springs is just outside the city in the lush jungle that has a great reputation for serving contemporary Indochinese cuisine. Enak was a great restaurant for exploring authentic Malay dishes and had not only a great atmosphere but a stylish decor to match. All of the restaurants in Starhill Galleries have a great reputation for haute cuisine.

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origins

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A Fork On The Road

F1 world championships, iconic cars, bankruptcy and revival, SLT salutes the centenary of Italian luxury motoringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oftforgotten, but always pioneering marque: Maserati. Â&#x201E; Words: James McCarthy Pictures: Maserati / Newspress / Getty

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ver the years, and across a multitude of long-famous brands, the Italians have delivered some of the most beautifully crafted automobiles to grace the tracks and thoroughfares of the world’s most affluent cities. However, when asked, the first names that trip off the tongues of laymen and women are usually Ferrari and Lamborghini, followed by “oh yeah, and Maserati.” Given its turbulent history - the company's ownership has changed hands more times than James Bond's tuxedo - it is, perhaps, unsurprising that Maserati is perceived to be the "third wheel" on the Italian luxury motoring machine. Il Tridente has long lived in the shadow of its Maranello-based counterpart, that of the prancing horse, and its slightly more mentally unhinged cousin from Sant’Agata Bolognese that bears the mark of a raging bull. Yet, Maserati, which is preparing to celebrate a centenary of fine motoring, arguably has a greater pedigree than either of its more flamboyant friends. In fact, the story of Maserati starts a good 15 years before Enzo established Scuderia Ferrari, and a half-century before Ferruccio figured that feuding with Enzo was more fun than building tractors. Some would argue that the original Modena-based motoring company is more in keeping with the Italian ethos of style than its competitors, too, with the understated, yet voluptuous shapes that both its historical and modern fleet of cars have adopted. Equally, there are those that would argue that such style comes at the cost of substance, but Italian motoring is an incredibly partisan environment and a competitive racing spirit is ingrained in its very fabric.

Such spirit can be found in the DNA of Maserati, a car company forged in the crucible of competition by five brothers, Alfieri, Bindi, Carlo, Ettore and Ernesto Maserati, on December 1st 1914, all of whom were automotive engineers and had been involved in some form of motorsport since the turn of the 20th century.

The Racing Years

After WWI drew to a close, Alfieri, Bindo and Ernesto built 2-litre Grand Prix cars for fellow Italian marque, Diatto, until the company suspended production of racing cars in 1926. This led to the creation of cars bearing the Maserati moniker. One of the first, the Tipo 26, with Alfieri at the wheel, won the Targa Florio, an open-road endurance race held in the mountains of Sicily. While the brothers got to work building four, six, eight and 16-cylinder racing cars, Mario Maserati, an artist and the only non-engineering brother, designed the now famous Trident logo; a symbol of strength and vigour, based on the Fontana del Nettuno in Bologna, the city in which Maserati had established its headquarters. He settled on a red and blue colour scheme that matched that of city's crest, and a legend was born. By 1929, Maserati set its first world record when, at Cremona, Baconin Borzacchini finished the 10 kilometre race flying at an average speed of 246.069 km/h, a speed record that would remain intact for another eight years. As the 1930s rolled around, the marque registered its first international victory at the Tripoli Grand Prix and, by the time the Italian GP at Monza loomed large, a chap called Enzo Ferrari was just starting to stoke a rivalry that would shape the next two decades of Italian motorsport. Maserati dominated the first encounter and was the only constructor on the winners’ podium. The Tipo 26M succeeded in the Grands Prix of 1931. Among other titles it won that year was the Mountain Championship at Brooklands in the UK under the control of renowned gentleman racer and former “Bentley Boy,” Tim Birkin.

(Top) Four of the Maserati brothers outside the Bologna factory; (above) Alfieri Maserati at the wheel; (right) Alfieri's Tipo 26 winning the Targa Florio.

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In 1937, the remaining Maserati brothers sold their shares in the company to the Italian businessman Adolfo Orsi, who, in 1940, relocated the company headquarters to their hometown of Modena, where it remains to this day. The weight of business responsibility lifted from their shoulders, the brothers did what they did best and continued in engineering roles with the company. More racing successes followed, even against the giants of German racing, Auto Union (known today as Audi) and Mercedes. Away from the Grands Prix, in back-to-back wins in 1939 and 1940, a Maserati 8CTF became the first, and only, Italian car ever to win the Indianapolis 500, the jewel in the crown of US motorsport. Following a hiatus in racing operations during WWII, the forerunner of modern Formula 1 was born. It was a golden age for Italian motorsport with the intense rivalry between Maserati and Ferrari heating up race tracks across the world. Modena became a city divided on race day, as the two marques duelled it out for supremacy of the track and rival fans traded verbal barbs in bars, factories, offices and across farm fences, hoping it was their team that would earn them Monday morning bragging rights.

“M

aserati is a marque forged in the crucible of competition.”

The famous Argentinian driver, Juan-Manuel Fangio, who, after winning his first world title with Alfa Romeo in 1951, joined Maserati in 1953 and produced a number of stunning victories for the team, securing second place in the championship. It was a black day for Maserati fans when he decamped to Daimler-Benz midway through the 1954 season, and blacker still when, in 1956, he joined bitter rival Ferrari, winning the world title with each of them. However, in 1957 he made his triumphant return to Il Tridente and delivered the company’s first (and his fourth consecutive and fifth overall) world championship in the Maserati 250F. Shortly afterwards, the motor racing world was devastated by the tragedy which took place in the village of Guidizzolo during the 1957 Mille Miglia. Spanish driver Alfonso de Portago's Ferrari veered off the road and tore through a group of spectators, killing him, his co-pilot and nine bystanders, five of which were children. It all but marked the end for the famous 1,000 mile enduro, and in the immediate aftermath, Maserati decided that, while it would continue to build cars for privateers, the company would retire from factory racing participation and switch its focus to creating road cars under the mantra “Excellence Through Passion.”

On The Road To Success

Even though Maserati handed Italian racing dominance to its equinebadged neighbour in favour of road-going reward at the end of the 1950s, its stall had been firmly set out a decade earlier with one of the company’s critical post-war projects. At the beginning of March 1946, the prototype of the first Maserati destined for daily use and not for racing was unveiled at the Geneva Motor Show. Simply christened “A6” in honour of the late

(Right and far right) Juan-Manuel Fangio in the Maserati 250F during the World Championship-winning 1957 Grand Prix season.

(Above and right) Maserati's Modena factory as it looked in the early 1960s.

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tipo 26m 1953 A6gcs

Alfieri and denoting the number of cylinders, the project was initiated by Ernesto Maserati before the brothers decided to leave the company. The design and originality were a hit with the public and production started in earnest. In 1948, at the Turin Motor Show, Maserati exhibited the first A6 1500 model which, in true Italian automotive fashion, wore the incredible styling of renowned designer Pininfarina. This was the beginning of an era that would see Maserati, under the watchful eye of its chief engineer Guilio Alfieri, produce some of its most iconic cars. Among them, the “White Dame,” the first prototype of the 3500 GT. The Shah of Persia was so impressed, he commissioned something even more exclusive. Alfieri took up the challenge and finally realised a long-awaited dream of putting the eight-cylinder engine of Fangio’s 450S endurance racer into a grand tourer. The resulting car, The Shah of Persia, is still considered to be one of Maserati’s finest models by collectors and car historians. Its gold and precious wood finishes quickly earned it the title of the most exclusive and luxurious car in the world at the time. In 1961, Maserati also introduced the 3500 GTI, famous for being the first car in Italy with a direct fuel injection engine. A cold wind from the South of France gave its name to Maserati’s next iconic car, the Mistral. With its long swooping bonnet and glass fastback design, it was presented at the 1963 Turin Motor Show. The Mistral was the last Maserati to be fitted with the dual ignition, twin camshaft, six-cylinder engine derived from Fangio’s world championship winning 250F, and nearly a thousand were produced. A spyder version launched with the 3500 GT’s 3.5 litre engine.

1957 3500gt

1963 quattroporte

More significantly, at the same show, the company debuted its first Quattroporte, a four-door sedan fitted with a race spec engine, after a suggestion made to Adolfo Orsi by Italian motoring journalist, Gino Rancati. The Quattroporte, exuding elegance, sportiness, power and luxury as imagined by Alfieri and Pietro Frua, immediately became Il Tridente’s flagship car, and remains so to this day.

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Shortly after the success of the Quattroporte, in the mid-1960s, Maserati began a collaboration with well-known Italian designer Giorgetto Giugiaro, forging a relationship that would last for years to come. His first project, the 8-cylinder Ghibli, debuted at the Turin Motor Show in 1966 and was an immediate success. Originally planning to produce just 100 cars, Maserati soon raised production to 400, based on the public’s response. By the end of 1972 when the first iteration of Ghibli ceased production, Maserati had turned out a total of 1,295 models, a figure comprising both spyder and coupé versions. Business was booming, so in 1968, realising that the company needed to expand and produce cars in greater numbers, Orsi sold the company to French car manufacturer, Citroën. Orsi remained the nominal president, but Maserati changed a great deal. The company became more prolific and experimental as new models were launched, and built, in much greater numbers than before. Citroën borrowed Maserati’s expertise and engines for its vehicles, while Maserati incorporated Citroën technology, particularly in hydraulics. Among the new cars that were conceived during the honeymoon period of this new marriage were 1971’s Bora, the first mass-produced mid-engined Maserati, and the 1975 Khamsin, both exhibiting the de rigeur wedge-shape sported by most performance cars in the 70s. The much-anticipated redux of Maserati’s flagship, the Quattroporte II, however, never made it into mass-production, but seven were made to special order. Unfortunately, the Citroën-Maserati alliance, despite its success, was short-lived as demand for fuel-hungry sports cars came to a grinding halt when the world fell foul to the global oil crisis. Citroën went bankrupt in 1974 and, in May 1975, Maserati followed suit by announcing it was in administration. However, propped up by Italian government funds, the company was kept in business until a buyer was found later that year in the form of Argentinian former racing driver, Alejandro de Tomaso, and his Benelli Motorcycle company. De Tomaso’s tenure at the pointy end of Il Tridente, while not greatly changing the fortunes of the company, did oversee the launch of the Quattroporte III in 1979.

1965 mistral

1967 ghibli

1975 khamsin

2004 MC12 GT

The 1980s were a bit of a wasteland of style, creativity and profit for Maserati, which largely abandoned the mid-engined sports car in favour of boxy, front-engined, rear drive coupés. These included a short twodoor coupé, the Karif, and a cabriolet, the Spyder, which was designed by the legendary coachbuilder, Zagato. In 1990 and 1992, respectively, two new, but uninspiring additions, the Shamal and the Ghibli II, were released to an apathetic world. There were further projects that never saw the light of day, one of which was the epically-styled, but unfortunately-monikered V8 mid-engined Chubasco. Seventeen examples of a pretty spectacular looking small, open-top, mid-engine sports car, designed by Carlo Gaino of Synthesis Design, called the Barchetta made it out of the factory. These were nothing more than concepts, though, and it seemed that Maserati was spent as a motoring force. Then, in 1993, Fiat Auto bought the company and breathed new life (and a ton of money) into the brand, before selling it to arch-rival, Ferrari, in 1999. Ironically, given the history of the two Modena-based marques, it fuelled something of a renaissance for Maserati. New manufacturing facilities were built to replace the now archaic 1940s factory, and a flush of investment in the 2000s saw the company regain its creative - and competitive - spark with the MC12 GT racer, which was based on the same chassis as the ultra exclusive Ferarri Enzo, taking its bow in the American Le Mans series. At the same time, the new, criticallyacclaimed, Quattroporte marked the return of Pininfarina’s design touch to the marque. Sporty roadsters like the GranTourismo and GranCabriolet

soon followed, helping to return the company to profitability. As the internal machinations of the Fiat Group saw Maserati partnered with Alfa Romeo, commercial success continued and Il Tridente once again regained its lustre. With the launch of the new Ghibli in 2013, and the Levante SUV in the works, Maserati is once again a force in the world’s luxury sports car market, producing more than 6,000 vehicles in 2011 and returning a revenue in excess of US$800m in the same year. These figures are set to continue growing in the coming years as global operations expand to new markets and flourish in established ones. The "third wheel" has finally turned a full revolution on the road to success. Back on the race track, back in profit and with a renewed sense of innovation, this sprightly centurion, it seems, has designs on becoming the "steering wheel" of Italian luxury motoring in the next 100 years.

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M AR K ETPLACE

WelcomE

to the SLT Market place:

a go-to guide

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CH Carolina Herrera men’s shoes, available At Carolina Herrera stores region-wide.

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M AR K ETPLACE

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M AR K ETPLACE

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31 > WINTER SPRING 2014 SUR LA TERRE > ISSUE 29 2013

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