PoltronaPoltrona Frau Design FrauCenter Design Center 29, La Croisette, 29, La Croisette, Porto Arabia, PortoThe Arabia, Pearl The Qatar Pearl Phone: Qatar+974 Phone: 40027467 +974 40027467 www.pfdesigncenter-qatar.com www.pfdesigncenter-qatar.com
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T r endy D esigns - 36 We find out how modern architects, artists and designers inspire fashion and what trends this season are influenced by all three
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issue 40
news a new gener ation
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Fashion’s high street and high-end hook ups have caused many a hashtag hailstorm, but fashion and architecture collaborations are few and far between
the rom a n way
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Fashion designers are so taken by Roman architecture and its remains that it has influenced their collections on many occasions. SLT finds out why
r etro r evolution
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Loud, flashy and oh-so-much fun, it’s time to cavort in flares and fringes as the season’s designers pay homage to retro glamour
into the futur e
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Digitally printed dresses and 3D-printed designs are being hailed the next big thing amongst the fashion crowd. Bold and sculptural, we look to the future of fashion
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Classic combinations don’t get any better than this. Here, black and white rule supreme, making for easy seasonal glamour and the hottest trend to invest in right now. These are the hero pieces that you should have on the top of your shopping list
ga me ch a nger
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With a new season ahead, a call for reinvention beckons and the hunt for fall’s most trending accessory ensues
london c alling
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Throughout October Sotheby’s S2 Gallery in London will feature Rock Style, a photo exhibition curated by Tommy Hilfiger and Jeffrey Deitch that celebrates the sartorial choices of the music industry’s greatest legends
m a de w ith lov e
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Two local talents prove Doha is a burgeoning hub for interior design and one to watch out for
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night shif t
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With a grandfather who was Grace Kelly's personal clothier, Katie Ermilio has design in her genes.. But the young American star is carving her own path
rolling with r aoul
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Led by husband and wife team Douglas and Odile Benjamin, contemporary luxury label Raoul has taken the fashion world by storm thanks to their understanding of a working woman’s wardrobe. SLT catches up with one half of the dynamic duo for a quick Q&A
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issue 40
C row n Jew els - 53
K a r l's K astle - 80
Givenchy steals the spotlight this fall, proving that jewels do belong on the face
The prolific designer lends his talents to one of Toronto’s hottest condo developments
beauty all about that base
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A picture perfect face starts with the right foundation. Brush up with the best bottles of the season
jo goes boho
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Jo Malone London captures a bohemian spirit with their latest olfactory delight, Mimosa & Cardamom. Perfumer Marie Salamagne takes us on a behind the scenes journey into the making of their new floriental fragrance
stacy m a rtin
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As the face of Miu Miu’s first foray into fragrance, the French-English actress talks about life as the newest member of Prada’s family
the ultim ate tr eat
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Indulging in chocolate has never been more appealing. Find out why this treatment is guilt-free
oh heav enly h air
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sou nd in v estments
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Immerse yourself in an aquatic carousel or journey to an urban solitude in the Alps. These are the world’s most innovative public spaces
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With design high on our mind we go in search of the new, the inspiring and most importantly, the thoughtprovoking
globetrot ter
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Dine, dream and delight your senses like a local with the latest hotel openings, restaurant launches and luxurious goings-on for the global traveller. This is a must-have list for those planning a trip soon
a rou nd the wor ld
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Legends of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are what lure travellers to Istanbul but the bohemian neighbourhood of Cihangir is where the real magic lies
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Get your design creations and innovations in front of some of the biggest powerhouses in the industry with the Lexus Design Award that has everyone looking to their imagination for a chance to win one of the biggest prizes of the year
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Proving that the London design scene is one to watch, the next generation of British designers are turning heads. We track down three of the hottest new talent's to talk furniture, design and more
We’ve rounded up the places in Doha that can fix any bad hair day.. Here are the saviours of the moment
the design factor
br iti a n ' s talent
Bang & Olufsen’s new generation is every sophisticated audiophile’s dream. Find out what the brand has lined up for 2015
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In Seville – where extravagant Moorish architecture takes centre fold amidst royal palaces – the fiery passion of flamenco takes on a life of its own. From the Plaza de Toros to Christopher Columbus’ tomb, SLT explores the old town of Seville to get a taste of the sites and sounds of Spain’s southern gem
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collect
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Clean, contemporary and classic are proving to be the strongest contenders with designers opting for a simple take on popular luxury pieces
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Maximo Reira heads to the Gulf with his funky furniture collection
hot seat
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For fall, Katherine Pooley proves that it's all about the sofa when it comes to furniture
dubai in lights
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We bring you all the fun of the fair as Dubai prepares for its biggest design event ever. This is your guide on who and what to look out for during October's biggest event
the a rt of r ev i val Etqaan strives to hold on to a fading heritage
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Welcome
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A look at Temperley London's SS16 collection and the annual celebration at the designer's country home
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culture sna p h a ppy
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A new book by Taschen offers a scrupulous curation of Andy Warhol’s famed Polaroids for the world to see
music
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Christine and the Queens sits down with SLT to talk electro-pop, her musical journey and what she thinks about gender equality
a rt c alenda r
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Whether you are an avid art collector or just simply enjoy immersing yourself in artistic surroundings, SLT has compliled a list of all the standout exhibitions and mustsee art fairs happening around the world this year
the list
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L ik e It - 106 Emergeast explores the new age lingo and how it interprets itself in our modern day realm
features
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Online art haven Emergeast shines light on the region’s hottest emerging artists. Amongst the heap of talent under their umbrella, here the duo shares insights on those promising artists and bespoke advice for their young collectors
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alice temper ley
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As Alice Temperley celebrates 15 years of Temperley London and her 40th birthday, SLT is invited inside her Somerset home for her annual fête and a peek at her SS16 collection
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An inside tour of the parties, happenings and pulse of the Gulf's bustling capitals
last page fur r eal
Find out what’s going in and around the Gulf, including the hottest art shows to attend and the coolest bands to rock out to
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Part shaggy slipper, part preppy loafer, fall’s most coveted flat comes courtesy of Gucci
Ingrid Bergman by Andy Warho / CORBIS
ditor's letter
Different people have different ideas about what is beautiful. For one thing, beauty cannot be judged objectively, for what one person finds beautiful or admirable may not appeal to another. In this issue we pay tribute to those challenging conventional notions of beauty and indeed the very word itself; the ones taking design - and our imaginations - to the next level. The generation of fresh young talent coming out of London is a perfect example of this, where these newcomers, inspired by their surroundings, see beauty in the most organic and simplest of forms. It's the rawness in their work, pared down and minimal, that has them breaking with convention. Across the channel in Paris, the picturesque St. Germain apartment and studio of fashion’s Kaiser sets the tone of inspiration for a new condo development, where Karl Lagerfeld lends both his eye for detail and pension for the avantgarde, to the Toronto skyline. On page 80, see how his flair for the dramatic is translated in the city’s most talked about address.
Find out how a once fledgling fair and a lot of very passionate people are making this happen in our feature on page 88, Dubai in Lights. Beauty, like all forms of art, can be very personal. And that's particularly apparent in Andy Warhol: Polaroids, a 500-plus-page compendium of Warhol’s snapshots being published by Taschen this fall. It's the imperfections in his instant photos that tell a beautiful story that might otherwise go unnoticed; a cigarette totting Audrey Hepburn modestly smiling at the camera; a slightly out-of-focus wild-looking Jack Nicholson; Austrian superstar, Arnold Schwarzenegger, shirtless and flexing his biceps all naïve and young. Unedited and without retouching, the images in Polaroids give an unpolished glimpse at the lives of the rich and the famous. And it’s in these images that we find not an expression of beauty, but beauty itself and how it should always be - whole and unexpurgated, an organic extension of its makers. It’s a page from his book we’d all be wise to borrow.
Having long held the belief that 'if we build it, they will come', Dubai is determined to reinvent the world’s perception of the desert city with a design week that is set to help birth and foster curiosity in design within the region.
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. sur la terre . editor's letter .
Dina Kabbani
senior Editor
ontributors
“Today, collaborations are all about creating that social media buzz, a PR frenzy and a cultural perception of necessity.” Sophie Jones-Cooper explores the allure of fashion's high street and high-end hooks up, and whether everyone is happy with luxury taking on lower price tags
“I've been designing consumer magazines for fourteen years. My first job was at TIME Magazine, which enabled me to work in London, New York and Hong Kong. I then moved to Dubai to work on Grazia Middle East, and then to Qatar to work on Sur La Terre. Travel broadens the mind and exposes me to so many variations and interpretations of design the world over. I wouldn't change my job for anything.” SLT's design maverick Helen Louise Carter on what keeps her mind ticking
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“My mum introduced me to impressionist painters thanks to her love of Claude Monet. I had a framed poster of Vincent Van Gogh's Sunflowers in my bedroom growing up - it was the focal point of a whole sunflower theme I had going on back then. What can I say, it was the 90s!” Julia Seidl, our Editor at Large, on her first brush with art and design
“It would have to be a blue velvet armchair that was passed down from my grandparents. It's my go-to spot to hang out, watch TV, read, or even just doze off. Knowing that it belonged to them, both of whom I'm very close with, adds an extra sense of comfort.” SLT staff writer Yara Jishi on her favourite piece of furniture
. sur la terre . contributors .
“Due to my line of work I have to go online every single day – it goes hand in hand with what I do and my passion for design.” Nacho Álvarez, Creative Director of Mirabello Trading & Decoration, shares his e-habits and views on social media as the importance of being online grows
“It affects my decision making in whether I buy or use something. It kind of sets the foundation of why I'm attracted to something.” Budding young photographer Malak Kabbani on how design plays a role in her everyday life
DETAILS Director of Publications Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com General Manager Joe Marritt j.marritt@firefly-me.com Senior Editor Dina Kabbani d.kabbani@firefly-me.com Editor-At-Large Julia Seidl j.seidl@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper Staff Writer Yara Jishi
Sur la Terre International S.A.
- Contributors Malak Kabbani
Head office 26 avenue de la Praille 1227, Geneva, Switzerland. Tel: + 41 22 310 48 00 Fax: + 41 22 310 48 01
- Art & Design Art Direction Helen Louise Carter In-House Photography Jerome Elizaga Foto Arabia Paolo Mallari Finaliser Ron Baron - International Sales International Sales Director Julia Toon j.toon@firefly-me.com
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THE ART OF
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- Sales & Marketing Area Manager, Doha Chirine Halabi c.halabi@firefly-me.com Senior Sales Manager, UAE Nesreen Shalaby n.shalaby@urjuan-me.com
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Deputy Sales Manager Masha Ivanova m.ivanova@firefly-me.com
Logistics Manager Joseph Isaac j.issac@firefly-me.com
- Printer Ali Bin Ali Printing Press, Doha, Qatar
- Publisher Firefly Communications PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar. Tel: +974 4434 0360 Fax: +974 4434 0359 info@firefly-me.com www.firefly-me.com
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Cover image: The Grata Sofa by Rolf Benz, who will be exhibiting at Dubai's Downtown Design 2015
Š 2015 Sur la Terre (SLT) is published bi-monthly by Firefly Communications. All material is strictly
copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is prohibited. All content is believed to be factual at the time of going to print, and contributors’ views are their own derived opinions and not necessarily that of Firefly Communications or SLT. No responsibility or liability is accepted by the publishers or editorial staff for any loss to any individual or company, legally, financially or physically, as a result of any statement, fact, figure or expression of opinion or belief appearing in SLT. The publisher does not officially endorse any advertising or advertorial content for third party products. Photography and image credits, where not otherwise stated, are those of Getty/Gallo Images and/or Shutterstock or iStock Photo and/or Firefly Communications, each of which retains their individual copyrights.
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Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
Maison Martin Margiela for H&M
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or H&M are the two words designer aficionados do not want to find on their designer labels. If your favourite Marni, Versace or Lanvin label includes these two words, then it is not the real deal, but the product of one of the last 10 years’ nifty collaborations between the high street and the high-end.
Since Karl Lagerfeld kickstarted the collaboration bandwagon back in 2004 with his collection for H&M, the fashion world has embraced such joint ventures in a big way. The lure of making a quick buck on the back of a big name designer and vice versa, while targeting a new mass market high street audience, is reason enough for these long separated fashion powers to join forces. But the success of these hook ups is not so much about pennies in the piggy bank, but perception in the market. Today, collaborations are all about creating that social media buzz, a PR frenzy and a cultural perception of necessity. If you find yourself in a hashtag hailstorm, well done you. And if desperate shoppers camp out overnight by the doors of your store and the fashion furor makes the headlines, an even bigger pat on the back is coming your way. These collaborations are deemed a success when footfall to the high street store skyrockets and the designers broaden their audience horizons. And while the fashion snobs may turn their noses up at these lower quality collections, for the happy shopper, they are over the moon to own a piece of designer pie without the hefty price tag. Yes, you might own a ‘For H&M’ version of that revered Lanvin dress, and yes the design quality has taken a cut with sequins and studs glued on en masse as opposed to painstakingly hand stitched one by one, but at less than $100, I doubt the average owner bats an eyelid.
Maison Martin Margiela for H&M
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THE HYBRID GENERATION Fashion’s high street and high-end hook ups have caused many a hashtag hailstorm, but fashion and architecture collaborations are few and far between
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Beyond the hybrid success of fashion teaming up with fashion, designers have also hooked up with the music world. Big names in pop have that same mass market following as the high street, and so the hashtag hailstorms keep on coming. Singer Pharrell Williams is not only king of the charts but also king of collaborations, having produced collections with big names in the game including Adidas, Commes des Garçons and Moncler. Our favourite bad girl Rihanna launched a capsule collection with high street giant River Island then teamed up with Puma, and after a couple of successful creations went on to become the brand's new Creative Director. And finally, who could possibly forget Queen B who got together with both Topshop and Giuseppe Zanotti, bringing a bit of that Beyoncé flavour to the masses. But there is one cross-pollination that we haven’t seen quite so much of in the mainstream, and that is fashion and architecture. Designers are without a doubt inspired by the world of architecture but there have only been a handful of recognisable collaborations between the two. Most recently sportswear giants Adidas have teamed up with architect Zaha Hadid and fashion brand COS with Snarkitecture. But architects just can’t compete with the commercial mass-market audience of the high street. Well, not right now. Back in the 80s, Azzedine Alaïa, Jean Paul Gaultier and Issey Miyake all created clothes for the French mail-order catalogue Les Trois Suisses. But back then, they didn’t start a hashtag hailstorm. There was no Internet for starters. Society wasn’t ready. 30 years on, it is a completely different story. So who knows, in another 30 years, could architecture and fashion hybrids be the collections to covet? Only time will tell.
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Asymmetric styles, draped goddess gowns and gilded waists pay homage to the ancient ways as fashion looks to Rome for inspiration.
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lashback 2,000 years and what we know in the modern world as Western Europe, was then the Roman Empire and its architecture is still one of the triumphs they are most renowned for today. They pioneered new and important ideas, predominantly the arch, baked brick and the use of cement and concrete, but sadly many of their wondrous structures are no longer standing in all their glory today. But what is left is design splendor in itself. Fashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are so taken by Roman architecture and its remains, that it has influenced their fashion collections on many occasions and in particular their SS14 collection, inspired by the ancient ruins in Sicily (1 & 2). Roman frescos and wall carvings were another huge part of Roman architecture, and designs like this Roman fresco in Tunisia (3) and this wall carving on the Triana fountain in Rome (4) are in abundance and their style found in design aesthetics across the board today. Many a Roman column is still standing, and contemporary versions of these columns are being designed and built daily around the world. This art deco cover of Vogue from 1925 is testament to the column’s design appeal (5). The trusty ‘column’ dress remains a firm fixture of fashion, and this season’s collections also give a subtle nod to the shades and textures associated with Roman design (6, 7 & 8). Accessories replicating old Roman coins and artifacts (9 & 10) also evoke a keen nostalgia. Interiors too continue to take their inspiration from ancient days gone by, such as this beautifully detailed and ornate piece by Middle East design brand Etqaan (11). 6. Victoria Beckham FW15. 7. Magda Butrym FW15 available @ Bloomingdale's Dubai. 8. Alexander McQueen FW15. 9. Necklace available @ Sauce Dubai. 10. Céline FW15
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3. Alexander McQueen FW15. 4. Christian Louboutin FW15. 5. Dior FW15. 6. Celine FW15.
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Loud, flashy and oh-so-much fun, it’s time to cavort in flares and fringes as the season’s designers pay homage to retro glamour.
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here is no escaping the impact the shapes and styles of the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s are having on todays’ style – from our homes and wardrobes to city buildings and urban structures. You just need to look at any of fashion’s big hitters’ winter collections or walk into any interior design boutique to see the influence of this kitsch era of pop-culture and style rebellion. The swirling bold graphic wallpaper and fabrics of the 60s in avocado greens, oranges, red and browns (1 & 2) are dominating dresses, blouses, jackets, bags and shoes this season (3, 4, 5 & 6). Quirky ducks and ornamental knick-knacks have made their way onto Prada’s winter accessories (7 & 8) and cubist wooden shapes (9) are translated onto clothes as bold cube patterns and prints - this Loewe FW15 dress is a great example (10). In the field of interiors, slender wooden sideboards and side tables and kidney shaped coffee tables have become a style staple for many of today’s contemporary homes (11). The iconic Eames Lounge Chair has retained its original appeal and is as popular today as ever. Only last year French designer Ora-Ïto designed a conceptual trainer, nicknamed the ‘Nikeames’, as homage to the Modernist furniture designers, Charles and Ray Eames (12).
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Shaping The Future As Coco Chanel once said “Fashion is architecture: it’s a matter of proportions.” And boy was she right.
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rchitecture has come on leaps and bounds since the Roman days, and contemporary design feats such as London’s Shard, Dubai’s Burj Khalifa and LA’s many a looming skyscraper (1) will soon become relics of the past. Interior design never fails to embrace the future (2, 3 & 4) but with design moving at such a fast pace, can fashion keep up? Digitally printed dresses and 3D-printed designs are being hailed the next big thing amongst the fashion crowd, and haute couture designer Iris van Herpen is leading the way. Amongst her many ‘starchitecture’ collaborations was her FW11 collection, which she collaborated with digital manufacturers .MGX by Materialise and architect Daniel Widrig. This season she has created a collection featuring dresses made from metal gauze (5) and 3D printed shoes (6). As well as the world of interiors, fashion designers are also taking inspiration from the structure, engineering and design elements of contemporary architecture. Balenciaga’s structured silhouettes (7), Blumarine’s shimmering gown (8), Aigner's Cybil Metropolitan Bag for Qatar available @ Blue Salon (9), Giorgio Armani’s futuristic plexiembellishments (10), Roland Mouret’s graphic patterns (11) and Tory Burch’s embellished skyscraper block heels (12) all prove that this season architecture really does seem to be pushing fashion into the future.
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Chalk cheese Cl a ssic combinations don’t ge t a n y be t ter t h a n t his. Her e bl ack a n d w hite rule su pr eme , m a k ing f or e a sy se a sona l gl a mou r .
COS FW15
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Blazer Ted Baker
Anya Hindmarch Scarf available @ Fifty One East, Qatar Bag MarkCross @ Per Lei Couture Boutique, Qatar
Clutch Victoria Beckham
Ring Messika available from Ali Bin Ali Watches & Jewellery, Qatar Booties Boss
G o fo r modern m o no c h ro m e w i th s l e e k tai l o r i n g and clean si l h o u e t te s TH I S FA L L .
Shirt Cos
Gloves Mulberry
Earrings Carreray Carrera available from Al Fardan Jewellery, Qatar
Clutch Ashlyn'd available@ Etoile La Boutique, Dubai Cuff Salvatore Ferragamo
Necklace Swarovski available @ Lagoona Mall, Qatar
Vertu Cell Phone available @ Villaggio Mall, Qatar
Bomber Jacket Mira Mikati available @ Sauce Boutique, Dubai
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Turning your dream catering into Reality Wedding –Private –Corporate Catering
fauchon paris café opening soon at lagoona mall Souq Najd, Salwa Road, Tel : 4432 4888 | Royal Plaza, Al Sadd, Tel : 5588 4435
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GER N A H
It’s that time of year when the ushering of a new season beckons the need for reinvention and when breaking away from the previous year’s trends is welcomed with open arms. For fall that’s exactly where the hottest accessory piece will be; dangling from every It girl’s arms. Enter Candamill, the dynamic fashion label helmed by New York-based designers Cindy and Cristian Candamil, whose new mid century aesthetic is producing quite the conversation pieces. Trust us, everyone will be asking you where you got it and how they can they can get one too. This is the new architectural statement bag du jour, ideal for the girl who is looking to lead and not follow. www.candamill.com
editor's pick
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What’s in a name? Everything. Expand your vocabulary – and handbag collection – with fall’s latest “It” bags.
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Calling Card: The first Emirati designer to showcase her collection during New York Fashion Week.
FW15 Inspiration: Traditional folklore with a modern twist; think heritage prints and fabrics mixed with modern textiles and skins like untamed fur and luxe leathers dyed in a muted, autumnal palette.
Images from Fatema Fardan's FW15 inspiration board
London Calling
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ommy Hilfiger has credited the wardrobes of Mick Jagger, Pete Townshend and Jimmy Page as inspiration for his entry into design so it’s a natural response on his brand’s 30th anniversary to pay homage to the rock gods who ignited his flame. Throughout the month of October, guests of Sotheby’s S|2 Gallery in London will be treated to Rock Style, a photo exhibition curated by Tommy himself and art curator Jeffrey Deitch that celebrates the sartorial choices of the music industry’s greatest legends (before the invention of the celebrity stylist). Keep your eyes peeled for the six specially-commissioned paintings of David Bowie, George Harrison, Debbie Harry, Jimmy Hendrix, Joey Ramon and Sid Vicious by American street artist Shepard Fairey. www.sothebys.com
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Famous Fans: Model, fashion darling and fruit of Carine Roitfeld’s loins, Julia Restoin Roitfeld hosted Fatema’s 17-look FW15 presentation while Chanel muse Leigh Lezark spun tunes from the DJ-booth and super stylist Rachel Zoe scouted out potential pieces. Top: Sid Vicious, Debbie Harry and Joey Ramone by Shepard Fairey. Above: Elton & Diana by James Fortune. Left: David Bowie in Life on Mars by Mick Rock.
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Why we’re intrigued: Though her fall collection is only her sophomore effort, Fatema’s ability to seamlessly blend contemporary touches like fringe, Mondrian-inspired layering and cutout backs with culturally-appropriate silhouettes turned our heads. www.fatemafardan.com
Made with love...in Qatar Two local talents prove Doha is a burgeoning hub for interior design creu qa
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The brainchild of local architects Hazar and Hassam, Artikkan, which launched this spring, focuses on ‘moderiental’ pieces – a fusion of Arab and Oriental-influenced furniture with a contemporary twist. Using natural and authentic materials found in the region, including mother of pearl, camel bones, brass, leather and solid wood, the duo offers readymade pieces and custom orders, all handcrafted in Qatar. www.artikkan.com
Creu Qatar
Your dining room isn’t complete without a farmhouse breakfast table from Creu. Handmade-to order in their Al-Khor workshop by multi-national craftsmen hailing from Canada, the Netherlands, Sri Lanka, the UK and the US, Creu's wooden pieces are statements in themselves. Both hard and soft woods from oak, maple, teak and more are on offer with many designs created with 100% recycled materials. www.creuqatar.com
Tie one on
Viva Vita Kin!
Make summer last forever in one of Vyshyvanka by Vita Kin’ traditional Ukrainian folk dresses. The official “it” dress of warmer months and sandy beach vacations, the linen frock by Kiev native Vita Kin is the star of Instagram thanks to early adapters and street style stars Anna Dello Russo, Miroslava Duma, Leandra Medine, Amanda Brooks and Vivana Volpicella. The sold out styles are hitting Sauce Boutique in Dubai this fall so get shopping! www.shopatsauce.com
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hen Burberry launched their monogrammed poncho last year, the style set clamored to get their hands on the sold-out colour-blocked blanket coat. Now Burberry is bringing the monogram to their iconic Made in Scotland scarf with their new Scarf Bar, which launches at their Regent Street store in London, online and at their Mall of Emirates and Dubai Mall boutiques this fall. Available in over 30 colours in an expanded range of their classic and lightweight cashmere designs (not to mention the well-edited variety of thread colours for monogramming), your biggest dilemma will be selecting the right shades. www.burberry.com
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The designer, here, spent her formative years learning the tricks of the trade at her father’s custom clothing shop. Below: Her grandfather was Grace Kelly’s personal clothier.
Designing may be in her genes but Katie Ermilio is carving out a path that’s all her own.
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t might be tempting to look at a Katie Ermilio dress and focus on the nipped-in waist or calf-skimming hemline, two design traits often associated with the iconic wardrobe of Grace Kelly. It’s even more tempting to do so once you learn that Katie’s grandfather was once the Princess of Monaco’s personal clothier. But if you’ve ever slipped into one of her pieces and twirled in front of a mirror, you’d see that despite her love of feminine silhouettes, her designs offer modern day princesses like Hollywood clients Michelle Williams and Taylor Swift a palatable twist on the saccharine evening look of yesteryear. The Philadelphia-native’s use of modern fabrications (like her floral wool lace developed inhouse) and the gentle infusion of sportswear (cashmere funnel neck sweaters and satin jeans) prove her aesthetic is not just unique, it’s mesmerising. Here, the 30-year old designer talks about her latest collection and why you’d sooner find her in jeans than a floor-grazing gown.
Katie Ermilio's FW15 collection, available in Doha at Per Lei Couture.
You've said you like to let the fabric do the talking. tell us about that. I would say silk faille and double faced satin are trademarks of my brand although I do love working with coloured fur, I’ve used it in almost every collection. [For FW15] I developed a navy netted lace and a wool lace. They worked so well for the collection because they were the perfect canvas for the midnight navy Swarovski crystal pearls I used to hand embellish the pieces. All production is made in New York City. My textiles are sourced from France and Italy and my cashmere sweaters are knitted in Georgia. It is very important that I work with American manufacturers. The Ermilio brand has been domestically produced for more than one hundred years and I intend to honour the legacy. how do you approach a new season? In short, I am constantly designing. Even when I’m not physically sketching or creating samples I’m thinking about colours and outfits and draping. It’s something I never fully turn off. I don’t really work from a mood board or a single source of inspiration. I suppose the best way to articulate it is I start with the first piece and build upon that piece to bring the collection together, much like building a wardrobe. Do you find it a challenge to design evening wear in a climate that is becoming increasingly casual? I’m a feminist and minimalist at heart. When I’m
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designing, my looks are a balance of the two and I design pieces that can be worn from day to night and purchased with the intention of wearing them for life. It’s something that just comes naturally for me. What was the first dress you ever made for yourself? It was for my eighth grade dance. It was a mint green strapless baby doll in a stunning silk georgette.
"I’m a feminist and minimalist at heart. When I’m designing, my looks are a balance of the two."
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Are you a jeans or a dress kind of girl? Jeans for sure! I could live in jeans, sneakers, and an oversized sweater everyday in the winter.
New Dimensions
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f you aren’t familiar with the name Danit Peleg, say it aloud three times and store it to memory because this young designer is on the rise thanks to her skills with a 3D printer. Creating the world’s first complete collection with a 3D printer (from the comfort of her own home no less), the innovator has blown fashion critics away with her tech-savvy yet wearable designs. We look at her collection by the numbers.
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9
months in development
years old
100
percentage of printed materials
2,000 www.danitpeleg.com
number of hours of printing time
2015
6
number of printers running simultaneously during peak printing time
20
year Danit graduated from Shenkar College, an art and design school
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kilo of materials used
number of hours to print one A4sized sheet of textile
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dollars spent on buying and renting printers
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the year Eugène Delacroix painted Liberty Leading the People, the inspiration behind Danit’s collection
Rolling with Raoul
ed by husband and wife team Douglas and Odile Benjamin, contemporary luxury label Raoul has taken the fashion world by storm thanks to their focus on fine tailoring and their understanding of a working woman’s wardrobe. SLT catches up with one half of the dynamic duo. Your Fall 2015 collection is inspired by nature. Where do you like to relax and recharge outdoors? The Botanic Gardens in Singapore are probably one of the most beautiful and well maintained parks I have ever seen. The park is surrounded by water and divided into many areas, from untouched rainforest to manicured orchid gardens - so many colours and textures to be inspired by. How did you work this inspiration into the collection? I wanted to recreate some of the textures found in nature - flora, fauna, rough pebbled terrains and glistening mineral stones. I was very excited with the needle punch technique of the camouflage print on felt. We used colourful wool yarn to create
3D texture. That same print was also applied on a floral lace creating yet another dimension to complement the collection. We imagine working together with your husband can be challenging! What is your secret to your success? I think because we are married, egos are thrown out the window. Of course, sometimes sensitivity can be too, especially when we are both passionate and want success. However, it is precisely because we are married that we overcome these issues and find agreement. Also, our roles are divided - my husband looks at the business while I am in charge of design, development and communications. www.raoul.com
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" I am inspired by the scale of Georgia O'Keeffe's work and her bold and courageous use of colour," says Odile.
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Crown Jewels No matter how much illuminating powder or highlighting cream you apply, your face will never shimmer as radiantly as the cabochon-adorned complexions at Givenchy’s FW15 show. Using precious gems including rubies, emeralds, pearls and a close cousin to jet (a mineral used in mourning jewellery during the 19th century), makeup maestro Pat McGrath brought designer Riccardo Tisci’s “Victorian Chola” look to life. It took six hours and some heavy duty adhesive (temporary, of course) to figure out the final arrangements, which included faux nasal piercings and shoulder-grazing earrings. A more subtle spin on the 3-D makeup trend for fall were the Swarovskiencrusted lower lashlines at Rodarte. Sparkles all around!
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A picture-perfect face starts
with the right foundation.
Brush up with the best bottles
of the season.
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THE FULL MONTY
Full coverage formulations that last all day, minus the mask-like finish.
Clarins Everlasting Foundation+ SPF 15 Your best defense on hot, humid days, this 18-hour wear foundation (an update to their classic formula) boosts bamboo powder to absorb excess sebum while leaving behind a matte finish.
Clinique Beyond Perfecting Foundation + Concealer The magic wand applicator lets you spot treat where needed or blend all over. The oil-free formulation provides moisture while staying in place, all without clogging pores. Talk about a triple threat.
Bourjois Paris Air Mat 24H Hold Extra-fine mattifying powder, zinc extract and silica beads control excess oil in this lightweight foundation that focuses on texture as much as it does on coverage. The result? A second skin effect.
Diego Dalla Palma High Coverage Foundation SPF 20 at Merch stores, qatar Italy’s complexion magician Diego Dalla Palma has created a foundation that goes on like velvet and stays put all day. A little goes a long way.
SKIN SAVIORS
Multi-tasking workhorses that correct as they cover.
Guerlain Parure Gold Rejuvenating Gold Radiance Foundation Calling this oil-based foundation “liquid gold” might be taking it too far but if you haven’t already experienced the benefits of oil, now’s the time. Oil of myrrh is the not so secret ingredient in this glow-getter.
Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Foundation SPF 40 You can skip your layer of serum thanks to this all-star formulation that boosts radiance (i.e. targets dullness and dark spots), firms and hydrates all while offering a silky, natural finish.
Dior Nude Air Sérum de Teint Free of any talc yet loaded with antioxidising oils from cranberry plus a slew of nourishing vitamins and minerals, this vial is like a multi-vitamin for your skin. The prognosis? Glowing skin that’s the textbook definition of health.
Collistar Foundation and Concealer Total Perfection Duo at Merch stores, qatar Collagen and hyaluronic acid work together to smooth fine lines while Vitamin A, C and E work their magic on dark spots, redness and blemishes. Your dermatologist would certainly give this one her stamp of approval.
HINT OF A TINT
Master the “no-makeup” makeup look with these lightweight formulations.
Tom Ford Complexion Enhancing Primer Offered in two shades, this adaptable musthave can be worn alone to colour correct and revive dull complexions or under your foundation for an extra layer of coverage and pore minimising power.
Givenchy Teint Couture Balm Blurring Foundation Balm Less coverage than a foundation but with more correcting powers than a BB cream, this complexion helper glides on like a moisturiser and subtly blurs away imperfections.
Giorgio Armani Crema Nuda The Italian beauty brand knows that the way to natural-looking radiance is through hydration, which is why this tinted emulsion is packed with moisturising agents like hyaluronic acid.
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La Mer The Reparative Skin Tint SPF 30 Harnessing their signature secrets from the surf (think deep sea red algae, super-charged seaborn ferment and their iconic miracle broth), La Mer’s light as air tint is a welcome addition (and upgrade) to the BB and CC game.
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The Inspiration Architectural “Jo Malone London took me on a journey to the home of the orientalist painter, Frederick Leighton. It was built as an incredibly decadent showcase for his collection of more than 1,000 tiles collected in the Middle East and is filled with vibrant pattern.”
Works of art “One of Leighton’s paintings, Flaming June, was particularly inspiring. I liked the idea of travelling through the picture to discover the vivid colour, texture and atmosphere of the interiors and wanted to recreate these layers in the scent.”
Jo goes boho
Cool chicks
Jo Malone London captures a bohemian spirit with their latest olfactory delight, Mimosa & Cardamom. Perfumer Marie Salamagne takes us on a behind the scenes journey into the making of their new floriental fragrance.
Geographical “We looked at places like Marrakesh and Tangier which were bohemian havens in the sixties for people such as the Rolling Stones.
“Mimosa is a symbol of elegance, simplicit y, tenderness and friendship.”
What direction did you receive from the team at Jo Malone? They wanted to create a fragrance that captured the bohemian spirit of adventure from the Victorians, who travelled the world collecting intriguing objects, to the vibrant hedonism of the sixties to the modern day bohemian.
How did you feel about working with mimosa?
Tell us how you went about creating the right floriental blend. We wanted to bring a sense of modernity to the traditional construction and to give it a twist. The classic floriental is made with florals like orange blossom, jasmine or rose. All are infused with an oriental richness and sophistication. Jo Malone London wanted to update this idea with mimosa as the main ingredient which is innovative in itself. I was very inspired by this starting point. In fragrance history, mimosa had not been revisited for a long time so it was an intriguing challenge. I then wanted to create something bold and captivating around it. We chose the cool spice, cardamom, as it would add a new energy. I love its thrilling freshness and sparkling effect. We knew we had found an unusual yet perfect pairing. They are both radiant. Mimosa is the warm sun, cardamom the bright light.
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“We were intrigued by figures like the London fashion designer Thea Porter, the society beauty Talitha Getty and the iconic Loulou de la Falaise with her bohemian style.”
I had a strong memory of the mimosa flower which made it even more exciting to work with. It has always reminded me of my childhood and winter weekends spent near the coast in the South of France. It was a joy to see these blooms again when Jo Malone London took me to see the mimosa growing in the Tanneron Mountains in Provence. It was a cold February day with bright blue skies. The scent and spectacle of the fluffy yellow flowers was unbelievable; mimosa is the golden sun of winter! I took some branches back from Tanneron with me and put them in my office so every day I could be inspired by the smell of the bright yellow pompoms.
What was the process behind the scent? I chose to use a sumptuous absolute of mimosa from the South of France, rich with character to capture the beauty of these flowers. I worked with a 100% natural mimosa extract, sourced from Provence. The young branches are harvested by hand and the extraction is carried out on fresh flowers in Grasse and Tourrettes.” www.jomalone.com
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STACY MARTIN As the face of Miu Miu’s first foray into fragrance, the French-English actress talks about life as the newest member of Prada’s family.
It’s been on the lips
of fashion insiders for seasons – Miu Miu was getting into the fragrance game. Two years after the launch was confirmed, the Italian fashion powerhouse has bottled their olfactory ideology into a matelassé package (reminiscent of their quilted leather handbags) that is more quirky than pretty, just like their collections. The scent too is just what you would expect from a brand who burst on the scene 22 years ago as the antidote to 90s minimalism. “Lily of the valley is a delicate flower, small and pure but also very poisonous,” says 24-year old model and actress Stacy Martin, who is the face of the Steven Miesellensed campaign, of the eau de parfum’s top note. “I find the opposition very interesting, something that is so beautiful and lethal at the same time.” Here, the rising star – who just wrapped up filming five movies this year, including the much talked about High-Rise with co-stars Sienna Miller and Elizabeth Moss – talks scents and style with SLT.
On scent I’ve started to realise that perfume is almost an extension of myself. I’s become part of my morning routine, like putting on your favourite jeans or shoes. It’s something that makes complete sense without having to think about it because it continues to reflect who you are.
Miu Miu Eau de Parfum
On style I don’t particularly believe in adopting one style or “personality”. I actually enjoy being versatile with my work and with Miu Miu, that’s one thing that can easily be achieved. We are, as human beings always evolving, changing and searching who we are. I enjoy the idea of playing with that and searching a new side of myself.
On Miuccia Prada The first time I was invited to the Miu Miu fashion show at the Palais d’Iena I wasn’t too sure what to expect, I wasn’t too familiar with how shows proceed and had just shot with Steven Meisel for their campaign so everything was quite new. I remember being at the front row and thinking how great it was to have someone like Mrs Prada attract these strong personalities and put them together. There’s a real mixture of talent which reflects her nonconformist and exciting taste. And to use the word “family” is a reassuring and grounding word when you enter the world of fashion which I find sometimes very intimidating.
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Miu Miu Trapeze mini at Net-a-Porter
On beauty Beauty is something very personal and changes from culture to culture. It’s also changed with time. And having travelled a lot growing up, I realised that beauty is the freedom oneself can experience when they don’t pay attention to criticism based solely on their complexion. There is no right or wrong when it comes to beauty, it’s subjective opinion. And the most beautiful people I’ve met or seen are people who exude confidence, kindness and openness to others. www.miumiu.com
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THE ULTIMATE TREAT Indulging in chocolate has never been more appealing. Find out why this treatment is guilt-free.
THE SECERET TO AGING WELL Forget lotions and potions, this is the future of beauty. With the increasing popularity of luxury creams, cleansers and treatments, each promising a prettier and younger version of you, it’s become overwhelmingly difficult to stick to just one. Enter D/Codetm, a pioneering concept that uses cutting-edge science to unlock
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your genetic data and translate it into a clear, detailed wellness plan through personalised coaching and holistic wellness solutions. The secret to looking good apparently is not great Collagen, but genetic testing. In collaboration with Nordic Laboratories from Denmark and Prima-
Derm Research Center from Spain, B/Attitude Doha is launching a revolutionary personalised wellness concept in Qatar, which uses a unique genetic blueprint and the help of a multidisciplinary team of professionals, to deliver a highly customised regimen and real results.
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ou have cut out the sugar, haven’t touched carbs since summer started and never miss a spinning class. But what happens when that naughty sweet tooth of yours kicks in? Once in a while it’s ok to put down that green goddess juice and treat yourself, and in this case your significant other, to some pure indulgence, because after all, sharing is at the core of any relationship, n'est-ce pas? In the heart of Doha’s buzzing West Bay, B Attitude Spa is taking decadence to a newlevel, offering a delicious spa experience for the true chocoholic, with a promise to excite all the senses and sweeten the soul without piling on the pounds. The Chocolate Dream experience starts off in a candle lit room, where you are welcomed with the unmistakable aroma of chocolate, helping to relax you and give you that chocolate fix without the calories! Once you’re resting peacefully on the cushioned flat bed, your body is exfoliated with a cacao scrub, making the most of cocoa’s antioxidants and musclerelaxing magnesium to soften your skin. Next, after a refreshing warm shower, it’s time to get wrapped up like a Hershey Bar as your masseuse smoothers you in rich fondue with a special in-house chocolate concoction that she uses while working out all of your knots. From there, she applies a clay mask to your face and lets the caffeine, present in chocolate, work its magic as it stimulates circulation and improves blood flow, firming the skin and working on those fine lines. Another shower preps you and your loved one to distress even further in a bubbly Jacuzzi before finally getting a gentle rubdown with the spa’s signature cocoa butter-based moisturiser that will hydrate your skin even further. After your treatment, wrap yourself in a plush robe as the spa serves up a delicious dessert of, you guessed it, chocolate goodness in a tranquil space to enhance the sweet experience. www.battitudespadoha.com
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YEHIA AND ZAKARIA AT GRAND HYATT DOHA
Whether your hair is dry, damaged or just needs a little pick-me up, get it back to its former glory with a little help from Yehia & Zakaria. Having garnered more than 20 years of international experience, the much sought-after duo will do everything from colouring to extensions; a must-book for those who need a little hair salvation, especially after summer. To book call 44481056
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PACE E LUCE AT ST. REGIS DOHA
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BLUE BRUSH STUDIO AT HILTON DOHA
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FRANCK PROVOST AT FOUR SEASONS DOHA
You know what they say – everything is bigger and better in Beirut! One of Lebanon’s favourite hair destinations, the renowned salon with its trend-trained staff offer a one-stop haven for beautiful blowouts, quick snips and a spot of Doha gossip. Using only the industry’s hottest products from L’Oreal Professional to Kerastase, you’re bound to get the best of the best. To book call 4446 0261
Calling all Rapunzels, have you heard of the man with the blue brush? Ask those in the know (think the chic cool creatives you see running around town) and they’ll all tell you that David Martinez is the one to visit when it comes to matters of the hair. Having styled the tresses for the catwalk shows of some of fashion’s biggest names, the Parisian wonder boy is now responsible for the beautiful manes donned by Doha’s style savvy crowd. To book call 44233022
OH HEAVENLY HAIR!
Need a speedy shampoo? Humidity got the best of your hair? For every mane problem you might be facing, we’ve rounded up a place that can solve it. Here are qatar's favourite saviours of the moment. . sur la terre . beauty .
The ultimate one-stop hub for everything hair-related can be found neatly nestled inside the pristine walls of the Four Seasons Doha, where A-list tresses come to be cleaned, treated and repaired. For those thinking of booking, do so way in advance as the salon, a firm favourite with the city’s high society girls, is usually booked solid for months on end. To book call 44948844
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BLISS SPA AT W DOHA
For volume, curls and a bit of drama this trendy location is every beauty aficionado’s dream. Stop by for a quick consultation and chat with the resident stylists, who’ll offer their expertise whether you’re in the mood for a pop of colour or just looking for a simple shampoo and finish. To book call 44535555
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2014 Winners of the 2015 LDA, Italian designers Emanuela Corti and Ivan Parati produced a collection of items that can act as a form of therapy for people with autism, Tourette syndrome and other special needs.
THE
DESIGN FACTOR Get your design creations and innovations in front of some of the biggest powerhouses in the industry with the Lexus Design Award.
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
F
rom Archimedes to Thomas Edison and Tim Berners Lee, the world has seen many great creators in its time. But for the young designers of today, convinced they are ‘the next big thing’, how do they get noticed in the global sea of ideas, talent and innovation and get their concepts in front of the industry professionals that actually matter? Budding singers have The X Factor, entrepreneurs have Dragon’s Den and cooks
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Masterchef... the list goes on. But what about the world’s design talent? Thanks to Lexus International, one of the world’s most designfocused car companies, budding designers looking for their time to shine and get their talent noticed and nurtured, now have a competition to call their own – the Lexus Design Award. Established in 2013 to foster growth among young designers this international design competition aims to support up-and-coming creators from around the world offering global exposure and a unique mentoring
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system for winning talent. Each year, a theme is selected to encourage broad thinking and for 2016, Lexus are looking for innovative designs and unique interpretations based on their chosen theme of ‘anticipation’, something at the heart of Lexus’ ethos, as they strive to provide products and services in anticipation of their client’s and society’s needs. “Whatever the field of design, we encourage applicants for 2016 to submit their most creative ideas that are aligned with our theme of Anticipation,” explains Mark Templin, Executive Vice President of Lexus International.
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MEET THE JUDGES Introducing the six doyennes of design you will need to impress to make it to Milan. Between them, they have racked up a serious amount of creative credibility.
Unlike many such competitions across other genres, the Lexus Design Award selects and supports more than just one winner. Twelve finalists and their work will each receive an introduction to the design community and be invited to Milan Design Week 2016 to present their ideas. Four finalists will also be given the opportunity to develop prototypes of their designs (with a budget of around $24,000 for each prototype) ahead of Milan Design Week. At this stage the finalists will work with globally renowned industry mentors architects Neri & Hu, product and furniture designer Max Lamb, designer and architect Elena Manferdini as well as artists and architects Snarkitecture. Once the prototypes
are complete and exhibited at Milan Design Week 2016, one of the four finalists is awarded the ‘numero uno’ spot, and named Grand Prix winner. While it is still in its early days, the Lexus Design Award has already propelled design talent into the global market. 2015 Grand Prix winners Emanueal Corti and Ivan Parati’s Sense-Wear has been exhibited in Tokyo and Moscow while 2015 panel finalist Yuzo Azu is preparing his INSTAMP for commercial release at Lexus dealerships in Japan and one of the 2014 winners, Sebastian Scherer has already launched his own design label and exhibited at Milan Design Week 2015.
Twelve finalists and their work will each receive an introduction to the design community and be invited to Milan Design Week 2016 to present their ideas.
“At Lexus, we spend a great deal of our time thinking about the serious matter of how to improve our designs and their impact on the world.”
Pushing the boundaries of design Lexus may be most known for its luxury cars, but its focus over the last 25 years has been on technical excellence and a commitment to innovation and bold, cutting-edge design not only in the car arena, but all aspects of design.
– Mark Templin, Executive VicePresident of Lexus International
In 2013, Lexus launched LEXUS INTERSECT, a creative retail, design and restaurant space in Tokyo’s chic Aoyama district, which is home to not only an exhibition space
Paolo Antonelli: Senior Curator (Architecture and Design) and Director of Research & Development at NY's Museum of Modern Art.
Aric Chen: Curator of Design and Architecture at M+, the future museum for visual culture in Hong Kong.
Toyo Ito: Multi award winning Architect with honours including Architectural Institute of Japan Prize and the Pritzker Architecture Prize.
Birgit Lohmann: Chief Editor, Head of Educational Programming and Curator for International Exhibitions of designboom.
ALICE RAWSTHORN: Design commentator and critic of the International New York Times.
for car culture and lifestyle, but a shop featuring a capsule collection of exclusive design led lifestyle accessories. The CRAFTED FOR LEXUS concept is based on the Japanese idea of takumi, or highly-skilled craftsmen. In order to qualify, a manufacturer has to have a unique production technique and progressive designs. Lexus has selected traditional artisans to collaborate with young artists, whose obsession with detail and dedication to their art sets them and their products apart. Current products include a stylish hand held light powered by the sun, a unique cowhide travel case, a rustic coffee cup
How to enter For more information and details on how to enter go to Lexusdesignaward.com Closing date for entries is October 18th 2015
TOKUO FUKUICHI: President of Lexus International. Need we say more.
made with volcanic ash in the glaze and homemade sunglasses.
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SOUND INVESTMENTS Bang & Olufsen’s new generation is every sophisticated audiophile’s dream
www.bang-olufsen.com
A TRULY CINEMATIC EXPERIENCE... Put down your smartphones and tablets and prepare yourself for a visual experience nothing short of immaculate with Bang & Olufsen’s new 85-inch version of the acclaimed BeoVision Avant 55. With eight integrated driver units and
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C
reating the perfect audiovisual environment is one of the fundamental rules of design when it comes to luxury homes and how to bedeck them. Gone are the days where entertainment came as an afterthought to the interior landscape of a house; now audio and visual devices are picked at the same time wallpaper and tiles are chosen. And who better to turn to for matters of sound than the masters, Bang and Olufsen.
a surround sound module, this beauty provides sound performance unlike any other TV, meaning you will get exceptionally good stereo performance with optimised speech reproduction and sufficient bass for a truly cinematic movie experience unlike anything you have seen before.
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UPDATING A MODERN CLASSIC... The iconic BeoPlay A9 music system just received a technological update that will make it even easier and more convenient to use in daily life, streaming music from all your digital devices. Whether through Bluetooth, AirPlay
Bang & Olufsen is available at Fifty One East in Qatar
SLT ARABIA plugs in... Nacho Álvarez, Creative Director of Mirabello Trading & Decoration, shares his e-habits and digital addictions HOW DIGITALLY ACTIVE ARE YOU? Due to my line of work I have to go online every single day – it goes hand in hand with what I do and my passion for design.
DO YOU EVER UNPLUG? Only when I’m Opposite page, clockwise: BeoVision Avant 55; BeoSound Moment. This page, clockwise: BeoLab 18; BeoPlay A9; BeoSound Moment. Bang & Olufsen is available at Fifty One East in Qatar.
suggests music or radio programmes that fit with the relevant day of the week and the time of day, this is the latest in modern, cloud-based music systems. or DLNA, enjoy great music with a hassle-free and much improved magic touch interface, that’ll have you feeling the bass once it kicks in thanks to the five built-in speaker units including an imposing 8-inch woofer.
A MUSIC SYSTEM THAT MATCHES YOUR MOOD... Allow your family to collect, discover and share their favourite music with Bang & Olufsen’s BeoSound Moment. Using a new, intelligent feature that adapts your listening patterns and
SIGNATURE SOUND GONE WIRELESS... At the top of its new lineup of wireless speakers is Bang & Olufsen’s BeoLab 18, a buildup on the brand’s iconic column speakers. Besides its new built-in WiSA and astounding acoustic performance, the BeoLab 18’s most striking visual feature is no doubt its lamella front, available in black and white composite as well as solid oak. These lamella choices give decorators a range of options that all work beautifully with designer Torsten Valeur’s minimalist column of anodised aluminium.
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overseas or when the Gulf’s sun blacks out my phone’s screen.
WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICE CAN’T YOU LIVE WITHOUT? My JBL portable speaker 2015 Bluetooth charger!
SOCIAL MEDIA – LOVE IT OR HATE IT? I really used to hate it, but nowadays, you feel left out if you’re not using it.
FAVOURITE HASHTAGS? Interior design, lifestyle, inspiration, gentleman.
WHAT IS THE DIGITAL TRAIT YOU HATE MOST IN OTHERS? When people post pictures of their food, especially ones of ice creams melting.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE DIGITAL AGE? How easy it can change your mind, your mood and your feelings.
WHAT’S ON YOUR IPOD RIGHT NOW? Facing the sun by Fritz Kalkbrenner, Years & Years by Shine, Frenar Enero by Vanesa Martin and Firestone by Conrad Sewell.
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Image: White Cubes from Dubai Design Week
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the journal
With design high
on our mind, we go in search for the new, the inspiring and most importantly the thought-provoking. In Seville, where extravagant Moorish architecture takes centre fold amidst royal palaces, the fiery passion of flamenco takes on a life of its own. We travel to London, long a breeding ground for the humble creative, where a generation of fresh young talent is experimenting with form and design. In Canada, the Kaiser of high fashion Karl Lagerfeld puts his blueprint on the Toronto skyline; Dubai preps for its biggest design event ever; and a new book by Taschen offers a scrupulous look into Andy Warhol’s snap happy world of Polaroids.
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globetrotter Where to dine, dream and delight your senses like a local - the latest hotel openings, restaurant launches and luxurious goings-on for the global traveller.
LONDON Two of France’s greatest exports are their food and their wine, and when you combine the two – well let’s just say “santé and bon appetit”. And London is soon to be toasting a new French venue, the fine dining institution, Les 110 de Taillevent. Direct from the culinary capital of France, the two-Michelin starred restaurant is all set to open a branch of its brasserie on London’s Cavendish Square this fall. Renowned for its wine and food pairings, Les 110 de Taillevent London will focus on offering a unique wine experience (they have a whopping 110 wines by the glass) and its renowned Parisian brasserie menu, adapted for the London palate. www.taillevent.com
TORONTO
DUBAI
If you are looking to dine like the A-listers who flock to the city during TIFF, Toronto's International Film Festival, then make sure you book ahead for a table at the newly renovated Café Boulud at the Four Seasons. It is hard to know what steals the limelight – the chic brasserie style interiors courtesy of award-winning interior designer Martin Brudnizki (the man responsible for The Ivy, Hix and Cecconi’s Miami Beach) or the delicious French fare. As well as his signature dishes, Chef Daniel Boulud has created a delicious menu of French and Lyonnais classics including quenelles de brochet and escargots persillage. www.cafeboulud.com
MELBOURNE
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
Melbourne has experienced quite the foodie revolution of late and following a six-month ‘pop up’ of Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck at the city’s Crown, the British chef is replacing his migrating bird with the second outpost of his restaurant Dinner opening this October. As you would expect from the experimental chef, the dishes are not simply British classics, but modern re-works of historical British favourites. This is 15th century royal dining in the 21st era. And if you want the ultimate dining experience, go for the chef’s table for six. www.dinnerbyheston.com.au
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Bugatti lovers, this one is for you. The über luxurious French car brand is launching not a new car, but an exclusive limited edition collection of Bugatti-styled seven bedroom super-villas in Dubai with Damac Properties. The collection, named Ettore 971 after Bugatti’s founder Ettore Bugatti and the ‘971’ dialing code for the UAE, will be built within the 55 million sq. ft. Akoya Oxygen master development and overlooking the Tiger Woods-designed Trump World Golf Club. The villas are modeled on the iconic Bugatti Veyron and its signature curved front, and will incorporate a glass paneled indoor garage, so you can ogle over your car while kicking back on the sofa. All this, for a mere $9 or $10 million dollars. www.bugatti.com
MUMBAI
JOHANNESBURG There aren’t many places in the world where you can not only follow in the footsteps of a legend, but also actually spend time living where that legend once lived. But now, Nelson Mandela’s former country retreat within the Shambala Private Game Reserve north of Johannesburg is open for groups of up to 12 to hire. There is no better place on earth to reflect on Mr. Mandela’s legacy than at the new Nelson Mandela Centre for Reconciliation (NMCR). Here his books, his furniture and his art surround you, not to mention the neighbouring Big Five. This is more than a safari hotel, it is a home-away-from-home, and what a great home to call yours if only for a short stay. www.lhw.com
If you find yourself in Mumbai and fancying a very special Bloody Mary, make your way to the newly opened St. Regis Mumbai. Place your order for one of the brand’s signature Bloody Mary cocktails, born at the flagship St. Regis New York in the early 1900s. What was Mumbai’s Palladium Hotel is now flying a new flag as the very first St. Regis Hotel in India. The mega property houses 386 rooms including 60 suites and guests won’t be short of dining options too, with the choice of five restaurants, a club lounge and three bars. www.stregismumbai.com
HONG KONG BALI The newly opened Mandapa, a Ritz Carlton Reserve set along the Ayung River in the Ubud jungle in Bali, is the hottest new destination for wellness seekers. Pack for off-duty cool for those days you will spend plodding the reserve’s very own working rice paddies and organic farm – this place is based on a traditional Balinese village. At the end of the day, sink into a sanctuary of relaxation at The Spa at Mandapa which focuses on the six pillars of wellbeing. But don’t forget chic lounge gear and those all-important glam rags, as Mandapa is also luxe central. There are thirty-five 1,000 sq. ft. suites, 25 private pool villas and personalised private dining experiences anywhere within the reserve. www.ritzcarlton.com
SYDNEY Sydney is a city bursting with foodie finds, and now thanks to the opening of new boutique hotel The Old Clare Hotel in the inner-city Chippendale neighbourhood, there are some newcomers on the menu. The heritagelisted building once a former brewery and pub, now welcomes three top notch eateries - British chef Jason Atherton’s first Australian venture Kensington Street Social (opening later this year), Automata by former Momofuku Seiobo chef Clayton Wells and Silvereye, from ex-Noma chef Sam Miller. Get your reservations in pronto. www.theoldclarehotel.com.au
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With two super stylish openings under one exclusive new roof, this is a double whammy for Hong Kong’s luxe-trotters. Not only has Hong Kong’s Langham Place Hotel reopened as Cordis, Hong Kong at Langham Place (the flagship property of the new brand), but also with it comes Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Ming Palace and the award-winning Chuan Spa. For even more bang for your buck, the hotel houses more than 1,500 pieces of contemporary art and topping it all off, a tranquil rooftop swimming pool (complete with underwater audio) far from the bustle of the streets of Mongkok, 41 levels below. www.cordishotels.com
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where in the world . . . Legends of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are what lure travellers to Istanbul but the bohemian neighbourhood of Cihangir is where the real magic lies. Sidewalks overflowing with antique shops and vintage stores are a dream come true for interior enthusiasts. Be sure to bring an extra suitcase! Décor to Adore Strolling the streets of Cihangir is like leafing through the pages of Architectural Digest. Interior inspiration is endless thanks to antique shops stocked floor to ceiling with both restored and in-need-of-repair furnishings from days gone by (visit Hikmet Mizanoglu and Asli Gunsiray for tried and true treasures) and new design shops that offer modern, minimalistic pieces that are too good to pass up (stop by Hamm, Archive, Hane 78 and Som Interior).
Local Produce If you couldn’t find what you were looking for at one of the over 3,000 stalls at the Grand Bazaar, head north to Cihangir and stop off at 3rd Culture (pictured here) and Luna Park Shop for truly authentic finds. Both independent boutiques stock gifts and accessories created in Turkey by local craftsmen and artisans, with some finds coming from within Istanbul itself.
Treasure Hunting The Turkish jewellers worthy of a spot on your appendages Gasia It’s hard not to notice the bold baubles in the windows of this boutique. Passerbys are lured in by the couture-worthy designs but it’s the Turkish hospitality found at the family-run business’ latest showroom that has them sitting down to a cup of tea with the designers. Senay Sahin Fans of more minimal designs will feel at home in local jewellery designer Senay Sahin’s shop, Artefact. Stocking her signature
Feed & Forage
style of brass wire dipped in gold coating, bronze, copper and hand-cut silver, her subtle use of semi-precious and natural
Where to shop and snack (before and after you sink your teeth into some Turkish delight, of course).
stones results in Instagram-worthy finds. Tar Tar Goods
Blue Matters
Donerli
Savoy Pastanesi
Slip into a pair of these
It’s only been a year since
Rest your feet at this 65-
Founded in 2011, designer Pinar Gercek weaves vibrant textiles
locally produced jeans at
Turkey’s leading meat
year old patisserie while
with non-traditional objects like pipe fittings and popsicle sticks
the denim brand’s concept
supplier opened this modern
you overdose on their
for look-at-me-creations that would feel right at home on the
shop. You may never take
doner spot but it’s already the
oversized chocolate bombs
them off.
preferred choice for locals.
filled with marzipan.
Fürreyya Galata
Cuma
Civan
You could head to the
Blink and you might fail to
For a custom-made suit
waterfront for a traditional
notice this hidden terrace
with a vintage feel, head
fish sandwich or sink your
and you’ll regret missing their
to this cheeky mens tailor
teeth into this open air
simple yet sinful breakfast.
and stock up on blazers and
spot’s famous fish wrap.
The salmon is unforgettable!
their signature tie.
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runway at Miu Miu or Marni. Bet you can’t pick just one!
Sk ip t h e Turk i s h cof fe e a n d i n d ul g e i n a gl a s s of Ça y (pr onoun c e d c h a i), a t ra d it ion al bl a ck m ilk-fr e e t e a. For a t r u e t a st e, sip your st r on g con co c t ion c ur b si d e w it h t h e lo c al s.
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OUT OF THIS WORLD
being sevill-ised Spain is the party country of Europe. The Spanish know how to enjoy themselves, and if the beautiful people aren’t shaking their stuff on one of the many islands, they’re in Barcelona or Madrid. Despite its calling card as the home of flamenco, the city of Seville though is perhaps the forgotten one or even better, a well-kept secret for those who like their excitement with a shorter guest list. Located in the sunbaked southern region of Andalusia, the Moors occupied Seville for hundreds of years. The result is a Medieval city strongly influenced by the Islamic cultural heritage left by the invaders, evident in the ambience of the city, the food and most importantly, the architecture. From the Plaza de Toros (bullfighting’s finest venue) to Christopher Columbus’ tomb, SLT explores the old town to get a taste of the sites and sounds of Spain’s southern gem. Words: Julia Seidl Photography: Mark Schoemer
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Like a ll grea t cities, S eville has historica l layers t ha t a re just wa itin g to be exp lored!
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Sights to see La Giralda towers over the city. One of the three remaining Almohad minarets in the world, it’s all that remains of the Great Mosque that has now been replaced by Seville’s Cathedral. It was so venerated by the Moors, that they wanted to destroy it during the 1248 invasion when they lost their power, as the thought of their beloved minaret in the hands of the enemy was inconceivable. Luckily for us, that did not happen. It’s also worth the queue to head inside the cathedral for a peep at Christopher Columbus' marble tomb. The final resting place of history’s greatest explorer is held aloft by four mighty aristocrats, each representing the four kingdoms of Spain during Columbus’ lifetime.
Top it Off Heading home from Spain without a sombrero (translation: hat) in your suitcase is sacreligious. Make a pit stop at the sombrerira Maquedano. Dating back to 1896, it’s the city’s oldest hat shop and as legend goes, it’s where the “jipijapa" (panama hat ) was sold for the first time. It’s worthy of a visit even if you prefer your head hat-free.
Go Green Head into nature while staying within the city limits at one of Seville’s centrally located parks. Try the Parque Maria Luisa for a mix of architectural delights (including the Plaza de Espana, the site of the World Expo in 1929) with Moorish fountains blended seamlessly with hundreds of exotic trees and lush gardens. Or visit the greenery outside the Monastery of Santa Maria de las Cuevas where Christopher Columbus’ son Ferdinand planted an ombú tree that still exists today.
Tapas to die for It may not be the fanciest joint in town but if you’re after the best tapas the city has to offer, look no further than Los Coloniales. Munch on roquefort sirloin and crispy eggplant with honey as you cram in with the locals on their lunch break and watch the city pass you by.
Shop the Markets Find everything you’ve every desired at Spain’s oldest department store El Corte Inglés. Founded in 1934, there are four locations throughout the city, selling everything from designer must-haves to cheeky home accessories. Or if treasures from a time gone by (with a side of people watching) are more up your alley, head to El Jueves, Seville's famed antique market, open only on Thursdays.
Pop a wheelie See the city on two wheels and really get to know the nooks and crannies of both sides of the river with See by Bike tours. Their local and extremely knowledgeable staff will point out what your guidebook won’t tell you.
Fight Club If you happen to be in Seville shortly after the completion of Semana Santa (the holy festival in April), book tickets to the seminal bullfighting festival of the year at the Plaza De Toros, the city’s legendary arena, which began construction in 1749. Or grab seats to a fight during the regular season from April to September.
Dance the night away As the birthplace of flamenco, Seville explodes with tablaos and peñas (small private clubs) that offer shows and even lessons. If you’re looking for a truly authentic experience that will leave you dancing in your seat, head to Los Gallos, which has been on the scene since 1966.
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hen I first received my invite to try out the Gran Meliá Colón in Seville, I was more than a little excited. Tapas, sun, Islamic architecture and a five-star luxury hotel with a Jacuzzi on the roof? There can surely be no better way to start the hot, dusty summer in the Gulf than a little trip to Europe. It is however, rather difficult to reach from the Middle East, and after I flew to Madrid and caught a two-hour train to Seville, I was less excited and more overtired, and by some mistake, turned up at the wrong hotel. It's worth noting, more than one Meliá in Seville. When the taxi finally dropped me off outside the hotel, weary and grumpy, I wasn’t in the best of moods when I walked up the red carpet and into the lobby. The staff, however, was so friendly, that I quickly perked up, and took my time to appreciate the décor. Despite the grandeur and heritage of the Gran Meliá Colón, it has a truly modern feel. Spacious, with an artistic bent, walking through the entrance’s columns and along the red carpet, I had the feeling I had entered a semi-secret society, a feeling that turned into a bit of a buzz thanks to my welcoming flute of champagne.
Top: Salvador Dali's The Persistence of Memory; Here: Francisco Goya's Clothed Maya.
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With a view over the rooftops at Spanish and Islamic architecture, the Gran Meliá Colón's Jacuzzi proves to be the perfect escape come sunset.
paradise found Writer Laura Hamilton is star-struck (in more ways than one at Seville’s finest city hotel, the Gran Meliá Colón.
ready to go out for a late dinner, the sun was still shining.
www.melia.com
A lovely member of staff gave me a tour of the hotel, which is small enough to feel intimate. It certainly has the individual touch; each suite door features a reproduction of a famous Spanish painting, and as the doorframes have been painted gold with a light shining from above, it’s as if you are walking into a piece of art. Spain has a long history of artists, from Dali to Velazquez, The hotel's grand exterior is a headalthough my favourite remains turning site. Francisco Goya, and as chance would have it, my floor was dedicated to the Old Master. It was difficult not to sink into the cushions on the bed and be stranded in the marshmallow softness, but my friend Sonia arrived from London to release me from my reverie, and as we sipped Spanish sherry and got
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The next day, we explored the hotel. Up in the solarium were a few sun loungers, but more importantly, the Jacuzzi. With a view over the rooftops at Spanish and Islamic architecture, lush green gardens and the hills in the distance, it was an utterly divine spot to relax in our bikinis. In a hotel in such a venerable building, it was unlikely that it was going to have a pool but looking over the rooftops while up to my chin in warm bubbles was even better than a swim. One of Gran Meliá Colón’s nicest touches is the Red Level. In the same place where the sumptuous breakfast takes place (I have never seen so much cake at breakfast and I heartily approve) there is a spread of mouth-watering Spanish delicacies and a private area with an open bar. It’s the perfect place to unwind with a glass of Moët or a gin and tonic, looking over your purchases of the day before heading up to your room to freshen up. We saw a famous British actor in the Red Level, although discretion negates me from revealing just who it was.
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Britain's Got Talent Proving that the London design scene is one to watch, the next generation of British designers are undoubtedly turning heads. Here, three of the freshest new talents reveal how they are rethinking everything from textiles to furniture.
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Chris Yoshiro Green Sharon Jo Yun Hung
Native & Co Arita porcelain plates.
Top: Heavy canvas apron with leather straps.
Sharon Jo Yun Hung and Chris Yoshiro Green like to joke about how Native & Co came out of a peculiar set of events that didn’t make sense at the time but now do when connecting the dots of the past. The Londonbased duo met while studying at Central Saint Martins, and now together with specialist makers and local craftsmen, design and curate Japanese and Taiwanese homeware from their Notting Hill store. Most of their pieces are a combination of traditional craft with contemporary but simple design. Teapots, kettles, porcelain and cast iron kitchenware, wooden tableware, hand-bound brooms and linen tea towels make up their foundation. “Our aesthetic can be defined as simple pieces of a discreet nature with beautiful subtle details. Objects that have purity, where the material’s natural beauty is left untarnished. Home-ware that compliments as interior but does not dominate it,” says the duo. A good example is their recently launched Arita Porcelain Range, which combines 400 year old porcelain techniques from the Arita region of Japan with a contemporary, and simple design suited for everyday life. www.nativeandco.com
Clockwise: Japanese enamelled kettle; The designers busy at work at their workshop.
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.. Pia Wustenberg
Korkki Vases unstacked at Pia's studio.
Backstage at the workshop where all the magic happens.
The Raku Group, one of Pia's most popular designs.
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Counting nature and the urban environment as her influences, half-German, half-Finnish Pia Wüstenberg is no stranger when it comes to dealing with contrasts. Her work, of which she was nominated for the Elle Decoration British Design Award back in 2012, combines art and design, function and fantasy. Her latest collection, a cork and glass table, pays tribute to the precious nature of materials. Splitting her time between a studio in east London and a workshop by a lake in eastern Germany, Wüstenberg acknowledges the role her cultural background plays into her designs. “It works well. The contrast of city and country makes me appreciate what I can find in both. In London I get many influences and meet many people. In Germany I get some peace and can work.” This year she plans on slowing down. “It’s been an intense time building collections and my own company, and now it’s time to focus on making the foundations strong,” she says. www.piadesign.eu www.utopiaandutility.eu
Photography by Malak Kabbani
spandana gopal
Right: Founder Spandana Below: Seva, set of bowls and platter.
With a mission to change people’s perception of Indian design Spandana Gopal is proving that it’s more about the practical than it is about the ornate. Through her brand Tiipoi, she communicates functionality and sustainability using materials that have a true currency in India’s tradition, reinterpreting them through modern design. “We stand out because we think of design differently, as a tool that can be used to communicate between traditional makers and modern ideas towards creating things that serve a purpose rather
than exist purely for the sake of the designer,” she says. Her ‘Tiipoi in Colour’ range, which launched during the London Design Festival this September, brings these lesser-known Indian concepts of design to life, with a line of powder-coated tableware and the brand’s very first collection of textiles. “I want people to hold a Tiipoi product in their hands and for them to think about how it is made - the fact that they are hand-spun or hand-turned fills the product with a good energy.” www.tiipoi.com The Ayasa storage containers in different colours.
Sama colour nesting trays in different sizes.
Jama-khan rug, part of a new collection of handwoven rugs and cushions launching this fall.
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"Karl had never been to Canada before and was very excited to work on this project and visit the city for the first time,” says developer Jordan Dermer.
"Custom designed kitchens with islands take advantage of high ceilings, maximising storage yet providing open shelves for display of special and precious items,” says interior designer Elaine Cecconi.
“Our design incorporates a scheme of projecting picture frame elements that reference the Art Shoppe’s signature picture window façade," says architect Peter Clewes of Architects Alliance.
Fast Facts:
*Occupancy scheduled for 2019 *28-storey tower *80,000 square feet of retail space on two levels *Bachelor, 1, 2, 2+den, 3+den *Outdoor pool, hot tub and cabana lounges *Wine tasting room with private storage *Rooftop lounge with tranquility garden *From $200,000 - $2M
“First and foremost I want homeowners to be excited and thrilled with their personal space,” says developer Peter Freed of his team’s desire to embrace the legacy of the address’ former occupant. “The former Art Shoppe helped shape this property into the icon that it is today.”
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Haute Addresses
Off the runway, top fashion designers are getting into the world of interiors, from hotels to condos. Toronto skyline
Karl’s Kastle
The prolific designer lends his talents to one of Toronto’s hottest condo developments.
F
or 78 years, family-owned furniture emporium Art Shoppe reigned supreme over Toronto’s Yonge and Eglinton area. Their recent move across town to the city’s design district left a vacancy for a new neighbourhood sovereign of style and there was only one man up for the job – fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld. Toronto just upped its cool quotient.
Florida – Both Armani (right) and Fendi are creating oceanfront private residences (or “chateaus” in Fendi’s case) for Bal Harbour residents.
London – See the world through Diane von Furstenberg’s eyes in the Grand Piano Suite at Claridges. It includes pictures from her globetrotting life.
Manilla – Missoni’s first residential project, a flashy $315 million tower, incorporates the Italian brand’s kinetic patterns in the common areas and within each suite if desired.
New York – Zac Posen created his dream kitchen, complete with porcelain sink, when designing the interiors
Thanks to a collaboration with Freed Developments and CD Capital Developments, fashion’s favourite multitasker (Karl is the creative force behind Chanel, Fendi, his own eponymous collection and a bevy of other interior design projects around the globe) is making his mark on the lobbies of the new Art Shoppe Lofts + Condos. For a city with a reported 38,114 multi-family units currently underway, it isn’t hard to see why the Kaiser was brought on board. “In Toronto, you need to do new, exciting and different things to stand out, and I think that we achieved this through this association with Karl Lagerfeld,” says Peter Freed, president of Freed Developments. The team behind the project were invited to tour the designer’s apartment and studio in the St. Germain district in Paris to see his handiwork in action. “[His spaces] are very contemporary, clean-lined, and architectural yet he infuses interest and whimsy through his selections of furniture and artwork. He loves modern design and is a great supporter of contemporary avant-garde artists and furniture designers,” says lead interior designer Elaine Cecconi of Cecconi Simone. “The best analogy we could use relates to the fashion industry. Art Shoppe is an understated, elegant, sophisticated statement; the lobbies by Karl Lagerfeld are the pieces of jewellery that complete the ensemble.” But it isn’t solely the Lagerfeld lobbies that will have style aficionados flocking to the address. The neighbourhood itself is of prime importance, says Jordan Dermer, managing partner of CD Capital Developments. “People want to live in areas surrounded by public transportation, shopping, employment, schools, parks and amenities all of which are abundant at Yonge and Eglinton.” Not to mention the proximity to the future Eglinton crosstown light rail transit line. Location aside, a concerted focus on the building’s luxurious amenities [see Fast Facts on opposite page for more info] and the design of individual suites makes this spot worthy of any discerning homeowner with a flair for the dramatic. “The mostly white and lightwood palette is layered in natural materials giving a play of texture with light. Not an austere gallery space but warm, comfortable and welcoming,” says Elaine. “The homes act as a frame you'd find on a piece of art; the residents' life and life's objects are the art within, hence living artfully.”
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of 16W21, a nine-unit boutique building in Chelsea.
Mauritis - Alice Temperley created the most glamourous tipi at the One & Only Le Saint Géran, complete with a hand-sewn bejewelled exterior lit by an antique Murano chandelier.
Rome – Expect warm leather touches throughout the Tomas Maier-designed Bottega Veneta suite at the St. Regis Rome.
“It’s u p t o me t o fin d a n ide a of w h at w ill m a k e t his building differ e n t f rom t he o t her buildings. The min u t e you e n t er , you h av e t o feel t h at you’r e in a pl ace t h at’s speci a l .” - Ka rl Lagerfeld
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THE SEAGLASS CAROUSEL, BATTERY PARK, NEW YORK Architect: Layng Pew, WXY Architecture + Urban Design
What was the inspiration behind The Seaglass Carousel? “While The Battery is one of the oldest and most popular public open spaces in continuous use in New York City, The Battery Conservancy was established in 1994 to rebuild and revitalise the park. Since the 18th century, carousels have been a feature of many fairgrounds and later in public squares and parks, so it seemed like a good fit.”
IMMERSE YOURSELF IN AN AQUATIC CAROUSEL OR
WATCH THIS SPACE
The carousel features fish instead of horses. Why is this? “We wanted to connect the carousel to the harbour nearby and the history of the site, which was the location of the original New York Aquarium. So we designed a spiralling pavilion of glass and steel, a chambered nautilus, for the carousel. We partnered with George Tsypin Opera Factory to create the magnificent fish, so that visitors can sit within the figures rather than atop them.”
JOURNEY TO AN URBAN SOLITUDE IN THE ALPS. THESE
ARE THE WORLD’S MOST INNOVATIVE PUBLIC SPACES
P
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
ublic spaces are an integral part of any community, from the indigenous tribes of Africa to the city dwellers of downtown Manhattan. And while the square footage of public global space is continually being squeezed, new contemporary public super spaces and structures are popping up around the world. The traditional parks and concrete clad squares are being stampeded out of fashion by awe-inspiring feats of contemporary architecture and design. We spoke to the architects and design masterminds behind some of the world’s most inspiring new public spaces to find out what makes their public space, a super space.
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What do you hope the carousel brings to the park and the people who ride on it? “Urban regeneration is about creating meaning and reinforcing community, about allowing for public interaction and enjoyment as well as bolstering the economy, sustainability and resiliency. The SeaGlass Carousel creates interaction and energy in the public realm. And it creates fun and enjoyment too, one of the foundations for improving sustainable communities and local economies.”
"Since t he 18t h ce n t u ry, c a rousel s h av e bee n a fe at u r e of m a n y fa irgrou n ds a n d l ater in pu blic squa r es a n d pa r k s, so it seemed lik e a good fit.”
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UP NEXT... Watch out for these new proposed public spaces coming your way soon.
CABLE CAR, BOLZANO, ITALY Architect: Patrick Lüth, Snøhetta
What did you hope to achieve from this new cable car and public space? “Our main goal was to provide an extension of the city into the nearby mountains, for not only the tourists but the local people. The initial theme for our design was based on the narrative of a journey. We wanted to create one fluid movement from the city up to the Virgl Mountain. That’s why we ended up with the circular buildings that create this continuous motion.” What makes this project such a feat of design?
“It is the simplicity in its perception combined with a spatial complexity in the design. Also the combination of architecture and landscape architecture is very interesting. The boundaries between architecture and nature disappear. We bring part of the mountain into the city by creating a rich landscape of architecture around the base station and at the same time, by creating an urban place we bring part of the city up to the mountain.” What elements are important to you when designing public spaces? “We like to create democratic spaces, public areas that are not dominated by commercial usage but give a freedom in their use to the general public.”
CIRKELBROEN BRIDGE, COPENHAGEN, denmark Architect: Olafur Eliasson, Studio Olafur Eliasson
Tell us about this new bridge and what inspired its design? “Cirkelbroen celebrates pedestrians. The bridge is made of five circular platforms and it contributes to a larger circle that will form a pedestrian route around Copenhagen Harbour. Copenhagen has a strong maritime history, but the fishing boats I saw as a child in Iceland also inspired me. In the harbour the boats were often moored right next to each other and it sometimes seemed that you could even cross the harbour just by walking from boat to boat.” how would you like the bridge to serve the community?
“I hope that people use Cirkelbroen as a meeting place, and that the zigzag design will help them slow down and take a break. To hesitate on our way is to engage in bodily thought. I see such introspection as an essential part of a vibrant city.” What factors are important to consider when creating a public space? “As an artist, I work with abstract and emotional qualities, so I believe, art can play a role in creating quality in an urban space and nurturing an atmosphere. Politicians, urban planners, and developers need to expand their toolbox by bringing in what I call creative reality producers – artists, social scientists, anthropologists, historians, dancers, poets, environmental activists, and philosophers – to rethink urban spaces.”
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The Garden Bridge, London – Designed by Thomas Heatherwick, this $266m garden and pedestrian bridge spanning London’s River Thames, promises a noise and pollution-free walk in the city when it opens in 2018.
Cultural Corridor, Mexico City – This elevated linear park (due to open in 2017) will be madeup green space and walkways, as well as art galleries and other cultural centres, all raised above ground over the city’s central Chapultepec Avenue.
The Underline, Miami – Proposed by James Corner Field Operations, one of the studios behind New York’s popular High Line, is this 16 km-long linear park and urban trail under Miami’s MetroRailway. The team hopes to transform the unused urban space into a public space for art, recreation and commerce.
Thames Baths, London – This proposed floating open-air pool in the middle of the River Thames near Victoria Embankment reinvents the original lido concept for savvy swimmers.
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Roche Bobois
Roche Bobois
COLLECT & COVET
Clean, contemporary and classic are proving to be the strongest of contenders with designers opting for a simple take on popular luxury pieces.
Christopher Guy @ Living In Interiors, The Pearl, Qatar
Armani Casa @ Living In Interiors, The Pearl, Qatar
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From esta blished designer s t o lesserk now n na mes, cr e ati v e t y pes a r e show ing a ppr eci ation f or t he sim ple cl a ssic f or m
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Poltrona Frau @ The Pearl, Qatar
Whe n choosing pieces f or t he home , op t f or design eleme n t s t h at combine moder n tech niques a n d t r a ditiona l m ater i a l s, ones t h at t h at br ing elega nce of f or m t o t he most ba sic fu nc tions
Poltrona Frau @ The Pearl, Qatar
Miele @ WAW Showroom, The Pearl Qatar
Miele @ WAW Showroom, The Pearl, Qatar Hacker @ WAW Showroom, The Pearl, Qatar
Natuzzi Italia @ Al Mana Towers, Qatar
Natuzzi Italia @ Al Mana Towers, Qatar
Don’t be sc a r ed t o pl ay w it h col ou r a n d e x per ime n t w it h ne w te x t u r es
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The Cities exhibition of Máximo Riera’s work will take place from November 12th to the 16th in Dubai at the Mine Art Gallery.
to nd In line with their ongoing a e initiative to feature exciting artists and designers, be f r u Cities Boutique is set to showcase a dynamic and thought- ea at provoking collection in Dubai this November. From one angle, a
ubai nD di re tu
The F usio no fN
Má ximo Reir : t r A a
viewer sees a Rhinoceros in mid-movement, or a whale’s tail that looks as though it’s about to splash back into the sea. View the piece in entirety, however, and a viewer engages with the beautiful and seamless fusion of animals and furniture; a thought-provoking collection by Spanish artist Máximo Reira who has worked in photography, painting and sculpture for over thirty years.
ON THE MESSAGE BEHIND HIS COLLECTION…
“My intention is to bring the animal kingdom to the urban world; to create awareness in something we are all losing empathy with. I normally focus on endangered species for my creations. I want to point out their uniqueness and how special these animals are.”
ON WHAT INSPIRES HIM… “My inspiration comes from all the experiences I’ve had throughout my life – places that I have been and people that I have met. Travelling, to me, is the awakening of the senses, and it’s one of the best ways to stimulate your creative capacity and experience new sensations. Most people think that travelling is only about knowing new places and cultures. The way I see travelling, however, is as a process of self-discovery.”
ON HIS DESIGN PROCESS… “I have tried to combine both of my biggest joys, nature and art. I consider my creations, and these chairs specifically, pieces of art, due to the creative inspiration being motivated by feelings like memories, passion, sadness, and satisfaction. Functionality in this case, would represent a limitation during the creative process, resulting in something totally different to what we have now.”
ON WHAT ART MEANS TO HIM… “Every single stage of the creative process is exciting and satisfying for me. I like the challenge on turning an idea into something physical and tangible. From the initial brainstorming, I always have the intention to create something new and different. Art always has to break boundaries, and being an artist means that you have to take risks in order to create something unusual and innovative. This is the key making evolving art.”
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Sofas are having a moment and Katherine Pooley’s fall 2015 pieces are proof that the most versatile seat in the house can combine both modern techniques and traditional materials making for some serious sophistication. From royal blue and Miami orange to silky velvet and cold brass, here are the six pieces to covet and collect. www.katharinepooley.com
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Brokis Shadows / Martin Chum
DUBAI IN LIGHTS WE BRING YOU ALL THE FUN OF THE FAIR AS DUBAI PREPARES FOR ITS BIGGEST DESIGN EVENT EVER. Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
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hat began as just scribbles on a white board three years ago is now a flourishing reality on the cultural landscape of Dubai. 2015 marks the inaugural Dubai Design Week, an event focused on showcasing local and international design talent and acting as a catalyst for the design and creative industries. The journey began with the launch of Design Days Dubai in 2012, a collector’s fair and the only fair dedicated to design in the entire region, which was followed in 2013 with the announcement of Dubai Design District, d3 (Dubai’s newest integrated design community) and the launch of Dubai’s very own design trade fair, Downtown Design. Now in its third year, Downtown Design is at the commercial centre of Dubai Design Week and a highlight for not only the trade but also art and design enthusiasts worldwide. “Creating an authentic, credible fair that would bring the best of international design, both established and emerging, together with regional talent was ambitious, but three years on, we’re looking at a fair twice the size of last year, and already sold out,” explains Rue Kothari, Fair Director of Downtown Design. “Dubai Design Week will unite design in the Middle East and provide a global meeting point for cutting-edge design,” adds Cyril Zammit, Head of Design for the Art Dubai Group. Could Dubai Design Week and Downtown Design really be lining up to rival its international contenders? Could it be the next Salone del Mobile or Maison&Object? We spoke to Rue Kothari and Cyril Zammit to find out…
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Rue Kothari, Fair Director of Downtown Design
We Meet Rue Kothari, Fair Director Of Downtown Design To Find Out How Dubai Is Making A Serious Name For Itself On The International Design Stage. Dubai is fostering the growth of AN emerging design scene at an incredible rate. Do you see Downtown Design and Dubai Design Week finding a place on the international roster of design fairs? “Downtown Design, in the context of the Dubai Design Week, is a crucial step for the region in gaining credibility as an international design hub for the Middle East. It demonstrates how far we’ve come in a decade, and the breadth of opportunity for international design brands that exist in the region. Through our platform we want to facilitate opportunities for buyers to discover new products and brands, and reconnect with existing ones. This all helps to fuel the success of the regional industry.” How does Downtown Design compare to other international design fairs? “All the big international shows started in the same way as Downtown Design - an idea, a fledgling fair, an emerging design market and a lot of very passionate people. As for us, as one of the fastest growing design fairs in the world, we are trying to keep up with demand, while not compromising on our standards. It’s a balancing act, but worth it when you see the caliber of design brands present this year.”
really hope that events like this help to birth and foster curiosity in design – with the ultimate aim of inspiring potential designers. If we invest in manufacturing then we will help to retain local talent and start to drive an industry producing objects and furniture that are ‘Made in Dubai’.” Downtown Design is now in its third year. What we can expect this year? “Aside from being double the size and more diverse than previous years, there are around 90 exhibitors from 24 different countries this year. We are encouraging our brands to showcase fresh content for this market. We have a new home this year – at the Dubai Design District – and as the commercial centerpiece of the inaugural Dubai Design Week, we are anticipating a new wave of consumer interest.” What role do you see Dubai District, d3 playing in the growth of design in the region? “d3 is integral to supporting the growth of the design industry regionally. It’s not only providing a focal point, but as a creative community, will feed the industry with international design brands while supporting
''I really hope that events like this help to birth and foster curiosity in design – with the ultimate aim of inspiring potential designers.'' What attracts international design brands to the region? “One word: opportunity. So many of these brands’ domestic economies are in stasis. They look to the Middle East, and to Dubai in particular, as the most high profile commercial centre in the region, as a place where there are high levels of development, a new district dedicated to design, and the upcoming Expo 2020 – and that signals an opportunity for them to do business.” How do you see the design landscape progressing in the future? “What I’ve seen in the last decade has been immeasurable progress; evolution in our understanding of design, the sophistication of our tastes, and the expansion of our design vernacular. We’re even using this new vocabulary to define a broad regional style. I
the burgeoning domestic scene. Our company, The Art Dubai Group, will shortly move into the district – and will be surrounded by a wealth of creative talent, from architects and interior designers to fashion brands and PR firms. When you put this much talent into a relatively contained space you’ll find some super exciting collaborations taking place.” How important is Expo 2020 Dubai for design in the region? “The giant marketing wheel of the Expo 2020 can only help to boost the brand of Dubai, and all that it represents. The project itself, like some previous editions, Shanghai in particular, can bring huge investment to the city. Of course, we hope the trickle down will benefit the country as a whole, including Downtown Design and the Dubai Design Week.”
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RUE’S FAST FIVE 1. My interior design style: Quirky, natural and colourful. 2. Favourite design structures: In Dubai it has to be the building I work in, The Index Tower in DIFC, designed by Foster + Partners, and abroad Frank Lloyd Wright’s Falling Water Residence in Arizona – I want to live there! 3. Where I like to shop for stand-alone design pieces: In Dubai I shop at Comptoir 102, D.tales and The Odd Piece, and I also enjoy scouring online sites like Nest or 1st Dibs for interesting pieces. 4. Favourite design pieces in my home: My mustard Kartell masters chairs, Bocci wall lights and my Baccarat Mille Nuit glasses in blue. 5. Who I would most like to meet from the design world: She would need to be resurrected, but Eileen Gray. She broke barriers both as a designer and as a woman.
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WHAT’S ON AT DUBAI DESIGN WEEK C yril Z ammit, Design Director of A rt Dubai the company behind Dubai Design Week, tells us about what we can expect and experience at this October’s inaugural fair. Abwab UAE curators
GLOBAL GRAD SHOW “We are proud to present a world premiere, our Global Grad Show, where we will be showcasing 52 of the very best post graduate projects from the 10 most respected design universities and academies in the world including MIT, Pratt Institute and Eindhoven. Visitors will discover the newest technology, transport and innovation.”
Zao Zuo Ben Wu Studio, Beijing
Cyril Zammit, Head of Design for the Art Dubai Group
Abierto de Diseño
DOWNTOWN DESIGN AND DESTINATION “If you are interested in design brands, Downtown Design has aligned a very important list of 90 exhibitors and will also host for the first time emerging design brands brought to Dubai by our design week partners. We have worked together closely to cocurate their design booths. Visitors will be the first to discover talent from Mexico City, San Francisco, Helsinki, Istanbul, Beijing and Melbourne. Each city will bring three of their most exciting emerging brands. In my view, a successful design week is one that reflects the nature of the city within which it is held. Dubai is a truly global city with 200 nationalities and its design week needs to reflect that mix – the local, regional and international makeup.”
INSTALLATIONS “Dubai Design Week has commissioned some unique world premiere installations, which will be showcased around the city and will spice up the feeling of a journey of design discovery. Most of them will be interactive or linked to the local culture.” UAE pavilion exterior
ABWAB “Abwab is a new experience of discovery with a collection of six curated pavilions integrated into the walkways of Dubai Design District. Each pavilion will showcase work from artists from its country - Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Jordan, Tunisia and UAE. Each pavilion has a curator that has worked with designers to interpret the theme of Games: The Element of Play in Culture. The result is a great culturally immersive journey. Abwab is the Arabic word for doors and I hope everyone will enjoy ‘pushing the doors’ to discover what each one holds.”
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DUBAI DESIGN WEEK TALKS “Specialist talks will take place in the Downtown Design auditorium and will feature a mix of talks from big international designers and architects, to insightful discussions from industry leaders on the future of design in the region.”
AROUND TOWN “As well as Dubai Design Week’s main exhibitions and initiatives, interior stores and boutiques around the city will be hosting exhibitions and events, including Cities, Sauce, O’de Rose and Comptoir 102.”
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THE WHO’S WHO OF DOWNTOWN DESIGN Discover the latest cutting edge designs, international trends and beautiful, innovative objects for the home. NAKKASH GALLERY While Dubai Design Week is about to endeavor into its first year, Nakkash Gallery is a veteran of the interior design scene in Dubai. Established in 1983 and headquartered in Dubai, Nakkash Gallery sources furniture from around the world as well as a selection of fabrics, paintings and accessories for the home. For Nakkash Gallery’s clients, only the highest quality and most unique pieces are cherry picked across a wide spectrum of styles from the classic and traditional to the eclectic and contemporary. www.nakkashgallery.com
''If you are interested in design brands, Downtown Design has aligned a very important list of 90 exhibitors and will also host for the first time emerging design brands brought to Dubai by their design week partners. '' WHITE CUBES With its office in the avant-garde district of Kolonaki in Athens, it is no surprise that White Cubes’ furniture is equally, if not more so avant-garde. Each individual piece is functional yet undeniably aesthetically pleasing, characterised by modernity, tranquility, linearity, sculptural purity and fragility and aimed to appeal to all five senses. Architect, designer and founder of White Cubes Faye Tsakalides seeks to “achieve beauty, elegance and minimalism of form creating pieces of furniture that break down the rules of ephemeral to create a well established language of avant-garde eternal design.” Faye brings her designs to Dubai after exhibiting at design fairs worldwide. www.whitecubes.gr
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GINGER & JAGGER For over 10 years, Ginger & Jagger has been producing nature inspired pieces of contemporary wanderlust, handcrafted and produced in Portugal, land of craftsmen and age-old tradition. Through their homewares they hope to offer the pureness of nature, the origins of the world and its wilderness. They will be bringing their Earth to Earth collection to Downtown Design, a stunning range of forever pieces for the home that have been inspired by nature’s sculptural shapes and beautifully crafted using artisanal techniques and a stunning blend of materials including brass, copper, exotic woods and marble. www.gingerandjagger.com
TRIBUTO Inspired by what they call the “poetry of hands” and with a desire to communicate through objects, Tributo’s creations are the result of a very unique combination of experienced designers and the very best master craftsmen of Mexico. Their first collection of just 12 pieces is made up of furniture, accessories and decorative utility objects, with influences from four states of Mexico – Jalisco, Michoacán, State of Mexico and Hidalgo. Each piece is handmade and influenced by the heritage and history of the artisan that makes it. The above lamp named Tiripiti, which means gold in the Purepecha language and is also the name given to the gods that are manifestations of the sun, is made from hammered copper and influenced by preColombian cultures. www.tributo.mx
SAMOVAR If you are looking for a handmade carpet or handwoven rug with some accolades to its name, look no further than Samovar. The Kuwait-based family business dates back to the 1920s and has won several design awards in their time including the Guinness World Record for the largest handwoven carpet made in Iran in 2009. The team at Samovar travel the world to source only the finest handmade and handwoven carpets, furniture and antiques. They will be exhibiting four of their award winning brands at Dubai Design Week including Michaela Schleypen’s Floor to Heaven, which won the 2015 Carpet Design Award of ‘Best Liked’. www.samovarcarpets.com
BROKIS With production facilities in the Czech Republic rooted in more than two hundred years of history, and the use of the age-old Bohemian glassblowing tradition, Brokis do not produce historic and traditional lights, but some of the most modern lighting fixtures and decorative lighting objects on the market. Their award-winning original lighting collections are designed by world-renowned Czech and international artists and beautifully combine traditional hand-blown glass with juxtaposing materials including wood and hand-pressed metal and result in awe-inspiring contemporary designs. www.brokis.cz
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HELLO LUMIO Scoring full points for both beauty and function, Lumio’s lamp is no ordinary light but a super savvy lighting solution, which offers beautiful lighting and a design, unconstrained by space or power. The lamp’s minimalist design looks like a book, yet when opened turns into a mesmerising sculptural light. The design combines laser cut wood covers with long lasting water resistant Tyvek pages containing high-performing LED. Its shape can be adapted to suit your individual needs and used inside or out, at home or abroad and for dinner party ambience or story time in the nursery. www.hellolumio.com
IBDAA New to the Dubai design scene, local concept furniture brand Ibdaa was founded by interior designers Marwa Al Shamry and Christelle Bitta. Ibdaa is an Arabic word meaning ‘creativity’ and the two designers hope their work, which is produced and manufactured in the UAE, adds to the creativity and value of the local design market. They focus on culturally inspired pieces, which they feel strike the right balance between different cultures and contemporary design. www.ibdaa.ae
MOROSO Moroso’s story began in post-war Italy in 1952, when they first began producing luxury sofas and seating. The culture back then of ‘doing things and doing them well’ is an ethos that has stuck with the family and the brand, which is now headed up by the second generation of the Moroso family. Moroso continues to strive for excellence combining craftsmanship and tailoring with industrial processing techniques and drawing on the world of industrial design, contemporary art and fashion. Their 70 master artisans, network of trusted suppliers, use of high quality materials and attention to detail result in truly unique design pieces. www.moroso.it
GALANTER & JONES It may look like a regular designer sofa, but this super stylish sofa from Galanter & Jones is in fact heated for outdoor use. Founded in 2012 by brother sister duo Aaron and Miranda Jones, Galanter & Jones with their team of talented tradespeople in California, specialise in heated seating using quality craftsmanship, energy efficient technology and cutting-edge design. The duo recently won Best Outdoor at Dwell on Design 2015. www.galanterandjones.com
Dubai Design Week will run from 26th – 31st October and Downtown Design from 27th – 31st October at Dubai Design District (d3). For more information go to www.dubaidesignweek.ae and www.downtowndesign.com
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MUUBS Danish design is renowned for its functionalism, simple and elegant design aesthetic and Denmark-based furniture and design company Muubs certainly fits the bill and more. Their latest collection, which they will be exhibiting at Dubai Design Week is a handmade series of design items for the home, made by artisans, woodworkers and craftspeople and includes teak root bowls with burned shells and wooden spoons. Wabi Sabi, a Japanese aesthetic that accepts the imperfections of natural beauty, inspired the collection. www.muubs.com
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"My biggest challenge has been helping our clients learn about the history of our products. There’s a misconception about the heritage of Arabic or Islamic design, which comes from all over, starting from Egypt and Syria all the way to Turkey, Morocco and Persia. It will take time to spread this awareness but we are determined to educate the market."
"Naturally our products are human centered products. We sit on a chair, write on a desk and relax on a chaise lounge, so if it's not comfortable for humans it's simply not successful." "We use natural materials in our products and that makes the products nearer to human nature contrary to artificial materials that sometimes might not work in harmony with people."
THE ART OF REVIVAL
ETQAAN GOES ON A MISSION TO HOLD ON to A FADING HERITAGE
For centuries history
has witnessed Egypt become a melting pot for world cultures, and in tow, the perfect environment for the synthesis of diverse artistic inspirations was born. In the skilled hands of craftsmen to whom wood was a treasure, Coptic, Islamic and European influences have melded beautifully, engraving themselves in the old architecture and furniture designs of the time. From intricately crafted rooftop domes to mother of pearl inlaid tables and handsome mashrabiya screen doors, these pieces have come to symbolise Ehab Mokhtar, Creative Director of Iwan Crafts the legendary mystery of the Orient. With a mission to introduce Egyptian artisanal furniture to the world, Etqaan, a luxury design brand part of the established Iwan Group, teamed up with Hossama, a four-generation family business of original craftsmen whose work goes back to the early 1900s with a remarkable portfolio of historic restoration projects across Egypt - to create the exclusive Etqaan. Together the pair are reviving a heritage that was once almost lost, working side by side to produce beautiful furniture and artifacts for those who have a passion for authentic Arabian art and vast appreciation for an almost extinct craft. We spoke to Ehab Mokhtar, Creative Director of Iwan Crafts (pg.94-95) and Hossama, Etqaan’s Head Craftsman (pg.96-97) to find out how they are managing to hold on to this fading heritage.
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"Most of our products are hand made which is very important. You see, every artisan working on a piece of furniture naturally gives the product a human touch and in the process, a part of his soul, and we see people connect easily with these pieces."
"I wear three hats all the time. Architecture is my passion, education and it's the mother of all arts. Design is my hobby and I like to create and come up with new ideas. And finally entrepreneurship is my goal as I’m constantly trying to achieve new possibilities."
"I have regular meetings in the workshop with the production team and the artisans, and as a designer, I'm always eager to explore new possibilities so I spend a lot of time with them. These people are very patient; they don't rush things but take their time and that is key in our work."
"The sky is the limit for our dreams, and after having established Etqaan in the GCC and MENA region we are now looking towards the American and European market. We already work with international designers but we want our story to spread all over the world. Our heritage is a human heritage and we have a duty to deliver it as far as we can."
"At Etqaan we don't just sell a piece of furniture. We sell art, heritage and identity, three things our clients appreciate very much."
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"Our clients are very sophisticated people who have very high standards; they’re concerned about details and to them the most important thing is the identity of the design." „
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"In our line of work we have to trust our feelings. If we feel that the design is missing something, even if the drawings are correct, we have to go with what our eyes see."
Hossama, Etqaan’s Head Craftsman "I am at the workshop everyday, working side by side with our artisans. We always have challenges in our work, trying new ideas and new ways to push our limits; it has taught me that a real artist is never really satisfied with his work." Etqaan's craftsmen busy at work (centre & below left)
"Etqaan’s new line included a new generation of a more contemporary collection. We needed to send a strong message that our heritage is developing by time and it accepts new trends; it's not only about history but it's an art that can be compatible with any type of design."
"Our clients are people who appreciate genuine things, people who have a strong identity and who feel that our products share with them the same quality. They are intellectuals who know the value of this heritage."
www.etqaan.boutique
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"There is always a story behind each project. Our most interesting one would have to be when we were assigned to restore the Coptic museum, which had a wooden ceiling that was in very bad condition. It was very old, centuries old actually, and many experts had refused to work on it. We were scared that if we couldn't save it and it got more damaged we would lose a priceless piece of heritage. This project is a source of pride for us as a team, and for me personally as we managed to save part of our heritage."
"Although a big part of our new collection is made by machine, we still use our signature handmade inlays. After all, we can't compromise on our human touch."
ŠAndy Warhol 1972 All Images: The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts; Inc./Courtesy of Taschen
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SNAP HAPPY
before Instagram, there was Warhol. In an era when private moments were actually private, Andy was there, documenting everyone and everything. A new book by Taschen offers a scrupulous curation of his famed Polaroids for the world to see.
When it comes to the weird and wonderful world of the post-Internet age of all things digital, it seems like everything, is being snapped up in a photo, put through a filter (because life really does looks better in Valencia and Earlybird!) and unapologetically hashtagged.
People document everything these days. Cell phone cameras are whipped out at the first sight of food ready to capture that perfect #foodporn moment, and pets have moved on from just being loyal companions, now warranting their own Instagram accounts, sometimes with more followers than their actual owners. Thanks to rampant social media no detail is too trivial to post.
Cover: Andy Warhol. Polaroids Reuel Golden
But long before Kim Kardashian was snapping selflies of herself, which then resulted in Selfless - a book whose title needs no explanation Andy Warhol was taking photographs. A lot of them. And just like Kim, the Pop artist was an insatiable selfie-taker. With his handy Polaroid camera, he took more than 20,000 shots of the famous and fabulous, documenting his whole life in Polaroids. In a new book created by Taschen and the Andy Warhol Foundation, Andy Warhol: Polaroids 1958-1987, these snapshots are compiled together offering a glimpse into the colourful individuals who crossed his path, the great and the good of his era. From casual and impromptu portraits of celebrities and icons to intimate never seen before images of Warhol and his entourage, the 500-plus-page visual diary reads like the Instagram feed that might have been; a unique record of the life, world, and vision behind the Pop Art maestro and modernist giant.
“A picture means I know where I was every minute. That’s why I take pictures. It’s a visual diary.” - Andy Warhol . sur la terre . culture .
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Candy Darling, 1969 Candy Darling, the gorgeous, transgender first met Andy in 1967 when he (Warhol) and Fred Hughes were on their way to pick up some leather pants that he was having made at the Leather Man in Greenwich Village. He immediately made her one of his “Superstars” casting her in his film “Flesh” and most famously in the Paul Morrissey/Warhol feminist spoof, “Women in Revolt”.
Audrey Hepburn, 1973 The early 70s was the big era of print on print, and here Andy Warhol captures Audrey Hepburn relaxing on the sofa with a cigarette looking beautifully, her floral dress matching the paisley-print couch. Hepburn was a favourite subject for Warhol; her image was used in multiples in his famous silkscreen work.
Yves Saint Laurent and Bianca Jagger, Venice 1973 A candid snap of Bianca Jagger and designer Yves SaintLaurent relaxing on a beach in the south of France. Andy Warhol forged personal relationships with many fashion designers like Yves Saint Laurent, for whom he created a paneled portrait in 1972 based off a series of Polaroids.
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Dennis Hopper, 1970 One of the first people to buy one of Andy Warhol’s soup can paintings, the famous actor quickly became part of the artist’s Los Angeles circle after meeting back in the 60s. The 1972 screenprint from Hopper's art collection of Warhol’s portrait of Mao Zedong became super famous thanks to the bullet holes fired after Hopper mistook the portrait of the Communist leader for Mao himself one wild night in the 1970s, according to Christie’s. After showing it to the artist, Warhol drew circles around the holes, labeling the one over Mao's right shoulder "warning shot" and the one at his upper left eyelid "bullet hole."
Dolly Parton, 1985 Singer Dolly Parton was sexy and sweet, the girl next door as well as an object of desire, which made her instantan a target for Andy Warhol who used her as one of his art subjects. For "Interview," the magazine Warhol created, he described her as "The glittery country goddess from Tennessee."
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Andy Warhol, from Myths 1981 With a habit of shooting more than a full roll of film a day, Andy Warhol was obsessed with taking photos of his most famous friends as well as of himself. Using an array of different cameras, he would always go back to his preferred and most dependable, the handy Polaroid. The new book includes an impressive collection, which spans from 1958 until the artist’s death in 1987, and has been billed as an early type of Instagram account.
Yves Saint Laurent, 1972 When Yves Saint Laurent and Andy Warhol met in 1974, Yves Saint Laurent instantly became a subject for Warhol’s portrait pieces.
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Jean-Michel Basquiat, 1983 When Basquiat was 19 he met the Pop artist Andy Warhol, and the two men formed a close connection. The two artists collaborated on numerous paintings together that mashed up Warhol’s slick Pop imagery with Basquiat’s neo-expressionist brushstrokes in the mid-1980s. Warhol's death hit JeanMichel extremely hard, and a year later, he was found dead in his apartment due to an overdose.
Sandy Brant, 1970 Sandy Brant was the director of Interview Magazine and later became a major international editor for Vanity Fair and Vogue. She was Peter Brant’s first wife, who was a renowned business man, entrepreneur and great art collector, and was an early supporter of Andy Warhol.
Jack Nicholson ,1972 Andy Warhol socialised with many actors including Nicholson, Warren Beatty and Anjelica Huston. Warhol once asked Nicholson to consider starring in a movie about the painter Jackson Pollock at the instigation of Ruth Kligman, Pollock's mistress.
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MUSIC IDEAL GENDER
Collar buttoned, blazer belted, Christine has style. An androgynous silhouette embodied on stage, this young Artist, whose real name is Heloise Letissier, made her mark last year with the EP Nuit 17 à 52, performed live on stage at the Zénith in Paris during Victoires de La Musique. A French sensation, she has gradually worked her way across the pond, securing a legion of followers and winning fans in Madonna. Here, she opens up about her electro-tinged pop and what inspires the elliptic texts she spins. Words: Gaëlle Hennet
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choreographies owe a great deal to Michael Jackson, Pina Bausch, Bob Fosse and Chaz Buzan. In regards to inspiration, my sources are also very eclectic. I like the American hip-hop of Drake, Kanye West or Kendrick Lamar as much as pop distilled by David Bowie, or music by icons of the chanson française, like Serge Gainsbourg – Gainsbarre version – Alain Bashung, William Sheller or Christophe, whose Paradis Perdus I revisit, since it’s very close to my story, in that it traces a wandering route through London. I think these various influences come across in Chaleur Humaine, which moves between pop and chanson, mixing texts in English and French.” ye a
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On her musical journey… “Before I embarked on this adventure, I was pursuing my dream of becoming a director. Apart from having a boundless admiration for the plays of Heiner Müller and Paul Claudel, I love multidisciplinary productions, like those of Pippo Delbono, for instance. In fact, I claim the will not to have to choose between my artistic references, which are very varied. So while the title Science Fiction is inspired directly by La Planète Sauvage (The Wild Planet) – a wonderful animated film from the 1970s – my
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On Her Album Chaleur Humaine (Human Warmth)… “Unlike my first EP, which I made alone on my computer, I recorded this album in a studio in London with a sound engineer, Ash Workman. The idea was to mix analogous and synthetic sounds to create a hybrid whole, a bearer of life. Plus it seems to me that my texts, and the accompanying choreographies, exude human warmth. More broadly, the title of this album refers to a form of non-gendered otherness and hence a certain freedom.
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On why she picked the name Christine and the Queens… “Christine was the obvious choice. It’s a somewhat vintage name that I love and that I often used with my friends when I’d forgotten someone’s name. As for the second part of my stage name, it refers to an encounter than marked my life. I think I was born again during a trip to London four years ago, when I was feeling a bit depressed. In a Soho club called Madame Jojo’s, I met a trio of transvestite artists, the Queens, who regularly performed a number alternating rock ‘n’ roll and cuisine. As well as finding their performance very funny, I was fascinated by this group, and got rid of all my hang-ups. Those musicians have a lot to do with the birth of my project.”
On her views on gender equality… “I have to admit I have never been very comfortable with the codes of femininity and masculinity. I see gender as something very theatrical, and potentially destructive, especially once you start struggling to place it. In my artistic work as well as in my daily life, I favour and play with this uncertainty, making it a point of honour to accept others as they are.”
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A GRAND BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN THE HEART OF LONDON
This autumn will see the launch of our newly renovated rooms and suites. Experience a sense of indulgence, comfort and elegance in one of London’s ďŹ nest retreats. Only a few steps away from Harrods and the designer boutiques of Sloane street, the hotel offers a combination of British heritage and luxury.
11 Cadogan Gardens | Chelsea | London | SW3 2RJ | United Kingdom TEL: +44 (0)207 730 7000 | reservations@no11cadogangardens.com | www.no11cadogangardens.com
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“Follow me”, “double tap”, “how many likes”, “like it” – lingo that has become all too common in our daily language to cement one’s popularity in the digital sphere. The Emergeast “Like” Exhibition transcended the digital realm and transformed the concept of the ‘Like’ into a physical reality. Utilising artists and artworks from their platform, the team behind online gallery Emergeast manifested the contemporary convention of the like button that has become an integral function of our day-to-day actions.
For their first
pop-up group exhibition in London, the online platform stuck true to their digital persona and curated the show in accordance with the hits, clicks and…well, likes of the artworks and artists represented by founders Dima Abdul Kader and Nikki Meftah. The inaugural popup brought to the visiting audience a dynamic experience by immersing live in the visual feast usually dominated by our alternate digital life. A dichotomy typically overlooked, the exhibition created a bridge between virtual and physical interactions – by doubling as a live art installation, as visitors physically liked their favourite artworks – “Like” allowed each passing admirer to think and carefully consider their ‘Like’, a notion taken for granted on the world wide web. The digital age has allowed artists to travel beyond their borders. Influences, themes, inspirations and backgrounds have gone virtually global through modes such as Instagram, Facebook and other social media platforms, the primary modes of ‘human interaction’ for most. Yet, further to artists using the social media sphere to disseminate their work, the exhibition also brought to light the use of digital media as an art form to the young and new collector. It is no surprise the seasoned artist has taken to the digital sphere to manifest their thoughts and creativity as the digital realm offers an excess of opportunities to stretch one’s imagination. Nic Courdy, a rapidly rising digital artist based in Salt Lake City, has manifested through his digital compilations a contemporary fusion of past and present art. Further to the oil and acrylic works on
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canvas present at the show, Courdy’s digital compilations garnered much attention through challenging the preconceived notions of traditional art in the eyes of a new collector. “I enjoyed how diverse the visiting audience were, who all enjoyed and extensively inquired about the digital works” says the Palestinian-American. In turn, the exhibition gave Courdy’s fantastical works a chance to be appreciated and viewed in a different light using the diverse digital tools. As our region’s artists proliferate, so does their artistic production and means of which they reveal their creativity.
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EMERGEAST SUGGESTS... Online gallery EMERGEAST.com – created by art authorities Nikki Meftah and Dima Abdul Kader – shines light on the region’s hottest emerging artists. Amongst the heap of talent under their umbrella, here the duo shares insights on those promising artists and bespoke advice for their young collectors! Last issue we covered a variety of art genres that the region’s contemporary artists are currently exploring, shining light on the style that speaks to you. For this issue we delve further by taking a closer look at street art as an art form through Iranian Graffiti artist Keyvan Heydari….
Who: Keyvan Heydari What: Keyvan, a pioneer of the street art movement in his birthplace of Tehran, has taken to the canvas to fuse elements of the East and West in a pop culture format, calling to his fellow urban youth and provoking the thoughts of his native following.
Where: The Tehran born artist takes Eastern symbolism all the way West to the streets of San Francisco, tagging the San Fran walls with his signature streaks.
When: As a star that is quickly rising, it is often hard The Emergeast team encouraged their audience to take one step back to acknowledge the convergence of the digital world with our physical, aka ‘the real world’. “Like” brought forth not a reinvention of the traditional exhibition, yet a form of expression that had the audience engaging with the artworks to contemplate what they liked.
to keep up with Keyvan’s hybridised works. Keyvan combines Persian symbolism, references to Hafiz and Rumi, with the pop, trendy and iconic from the West, keeping us enthralled with each visual feast that is his canvas.
First of its kind, the “Like” exhibition captured the attention of an audience that is victim to the double tab culture. The interactive exhibition aimed to break down barriers and penetrate the young professional through the most relatable tool of the modern day: social media.
Why: Keyvan’s romantic and pensive self translate to his canvas through his choice of colours, themes and pop culture icons. A story line and subject matter come through reminiscent of Keyvan’s nostalgia and imagination of his native land. Keyvan Heydari is certainly a unique artist who strives to highlight identity and culture via his spray can.
The inaugural pop- up brought to the visiting audience a dynamic experience by immersing live in the visual feast usually dominated by our alternate digital life.
“I'm always feeling my inner child. Free from fear and hatred means demanding love, peace and freedom. In this sense, the smoke and commotion of city life becomes less visible.”- Keyvan Heydari All artworks available to order on www.emergeast.com
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WHEN FOR ART THOU...
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The Standout Exhibitions, Must-See Art Fairs And
ANDY WARHOL: SHADOWS For the first time in Europe, Andy Warhol’s largest ever installation will be on display at Paris’ Museum of Modern Art. The installation is part of an exhibition based around the pop artist’s monumental series Shadows, made in 1979. 102 works using 17 different colours will cover 130 metres of walls.
PERFORMA NEW YORK As America’s first and only visual art performance biennial, Performa explores the role of live performance in the history of twentieth-century art and encourages new directions in performance for the twentieth century. Founded by performance art pioneer RoseLee Goldberg, this is the event for those looking for something a little off the beaten art track. This is the fifth edition and the central theme is motion.
October 2nd 2015 – February 7th 2016 www.mam.paris.fr
FRIEZE LONDON If ever there was a reason for art lovers to visit London it would be for the Frieze Art Fair. Now in its thirteenth year, what is one of the world’s leading contemporary art fairs will this year represent 160 international galleries from almost 30 countries. “Both established and young galleries are planning special presentations of mainly new work so Frieze London will be a place to see art of the highest quality and discover emerging artists from all over the world,” explains Victoria Siddall, Director of the Frieze Fairs. Some of the big names to look forward to are Cheim & Read from New York, Galerie Kamel Mennour from Paris and local London gallery the Simon Lee Gallery.
AI WEIWEI EXHIBITION, ROYAL ACADEMY LONDON First up is the much anticipated and first major retrospective of the work of Chinese contemporary artist and activist Ai Weiwei at London’s Royal Academy. Back in 2010 he made a significant impression on the international art scene with his sunflower seed installation at London’s Tate Modern, but has since been off the radar having been detained by the Chinese authorities since 2011 for tax evasion. This exhibition, which includes some of his most important works from 1993 to present day and some specifically created installations, sees his return to the world art stage.
September 19th – December 13th 2015 www.theroyalacademy.org
October 14th – 17th 2015 www.friezelondon.com
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1st – 22nd November 2015 www.performa-arts.org
Definitive Design Events Around The World This Year
ART BASEL, BASEL The pinnacle of the Art Basel trilogy, and the original, you can’t beat Art Basel for variety and quality (especially if you miss Miami in December and Hong Kong in March). Last year’s fair showcased more than 280 of the world’s leading galleries and the work of over 4,000 artists. If you are looking for a very special modern masterpiece, Art Basel might just be the place to make your purchase.
MAISON & OBJET PARIS Along with London Design Festival and Salone del Mobile Milano (April 12th – 17th 2016), Maison&Objet is one of the most acclaimed design weeks and for five days, it is Paris’ chance to become alive with all things design. Attracting hundreds of the world’s finest doyennes of design, this may be a trade show by nature, but if you love your design and want to keep your finger on the pulse, Maison&Objet is a must for the agenda.
ART BASEL MIAMI Art Basel Miami is certainly the diary date and destination for celebrating the finer things in life, with contemporary art at the centre. But there is far more to Art Basel Miami than being America’s biggest art fair. This December art aficionados and the social savvy alike, will descend upon Miami Beach for the fair’s 14th edition to get their hands on some of the best contemporary and conceptual art from around the world, as well as attending some of the hottest parties come nightfall.
22nd – 26th January 2016 www.maison-objet.com
16th – 19th June 2016 www.artbasel.com
ART DUBAI Art Dubai may be a relative newcomer to the international art scene, but in 2016, the now internationally acclaimed art fair celebrates its 10th anniversary. In the last decade Art Dubai has certainly built a serious foundation and loyal following, exhibiting not only emerging local talent but also high profile international galleries and artists.
16th – 19th March 2016
LONDON DESIGN BIENNALE For the first time ever, London is being given its very own design biennale, based on the model of the Venice art and architecture bienniales. Up to 40 installations and exhibitions from around the world, on the theme Utopia by Design, will come to London’s Somerset House for next fall.
7th – 27th SEPTEMBER 2016 www.londondesignbiennale.com
www.artdubai.ae
3rd – 6th December 2015 www.artbasel.com
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
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the list
30 SEP - 15 Oct
Beyond The Canvas Where: Dubai, UAE When: 30 September - 15 October What: We have virtually no doubt in our minds that everyone is familiar with Banksy, the world’s most notorious street artist. But now, have you heard of Gully? He might be lesser known and come sans cult following like his British counterpart, but this contemporary Parisian has finally managed to steal a bit of the spotlight having switched wall for canvas in his big move from graffititurned-gallery artist, making waves in his wake. Have we got your attention now? After ten years of anonymous painting popping up on the streets of Paris, the French artist is now ready for his first exhibition in Dubai. “Beyond the Canvas” will see Gully manipulate art history inspired by art legends like Canaletto, Hopper, Warhol, Basquiat and Koons, remodeling and incorporating parts of their art into his paintings. His entire M.O. is centred on appropriated artworks that challenge the fetishism of the iconic and the comfort of the familiar, and why wouldn’t it be? As an ex-street artist, he knows that fine art goes hand in hand with mass culture and the streets. www.operagallery.com
19 SEP - 5 dec
27 - 29
19 oct - 30 Jan
Light Show
F1 Grand Prix 2015
Where: Sharjah, UAE When: 19 September – 5 December What: Sharjah Art Foundation's upcoming programme promises, quite literally, to be a bright affair. Originally organised by London's Hayward Gallery, Light Show explores the experiential and phenomenal aspects of light by bringing together sculptures and installations that use light to sculpt and shape space in different ways. The exhibition showcases artworks created from the 1960s to the present day, including immersive environments, freestanding light sculptures and projections. And following Light Show’s impressive views by more than 190,000 visitors back in 2013, we’re expecting an even madder audience this time around. www.sharjahart.org
Where: Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, UAE When: 27 – 29 November What: Whether you prefer taking your vintage Aston Martin out for a spin or racing your Ferrari GT along the Monte Carlo coastal road, it’s that time of year where your driving moccasins will have you making your way to the stunning waterfront setting of the UAE’s capital for the region’s biggest and hottest race of them all, the Formula 1 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix. In its seventh year, the Yas Marina Circuit will host Formula 1’s only twilight event, which last year saw Brit Lewis Hamilton clinch his second world title (we’re all still talking about that). As for the post-race concerts, there have been rumours of who might be playing but nothing has been confirmed as of yet. Watch this spot for updates. www.yasmarinacircuit.com
Luc Tuymans: Intolerance
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Where: Al Riwaq Gallery, Doha, Qatar When: 19 October – 30 January What: Looking to engage that intellect of yours or just want to rub shoulders with the cool art community? Whatever the reason, Doha’s Al Riwaq is the perfect joint to do it in. Having hosted some of the art world’s most brilliant talent such as Damien Hirst and Takashi Murakami, the culture hub is now opening its doors to its latest hit exhibition “Intolerance” by Luc Tuymans. This coming fall, the Belgian artist will present a retrospective, his first ever in the Gulf, including a series of wall paintings and a new body of work, 'The Arena', created specifically for the show. www.qm.org.qa
29 - 30
24 - 28
26 - 28
Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience 2015
Jewellery Arabia 2015
Classical Pilates Workshop
OCT
Where: Dubai, UAE When: 29 – 30 October What: The Middle East’s biggest fashion event is right around the corner and it’s time to get in serious prep mode. For those of you heading to the shows, or plan on attending one of the fashion talks led by renowned icons of the industry (this year’s list is no joke!), we recommend getting you’re A-game on as the crème de la crème of the fashion world flock to Dubai for the VFDE 2015. The two-day shindig will see everything from impossibly cool fashion parties to the first edition of ‘Who Is On Next Dubai,’ a scouting contest open to all fashion designers from the Middle East, Asia and Africa. We did say it’s prep time! www.vfdebyemaar.com
NOV
Where: Manama, Bahrain When: 24 – 28 November What: Diamonds, rubies, emeralds and basically anything shiny you can think of make up this modern-day bling fest, one that has us all checking that our bank accounts can handle some major damage. Back for its 24th season, the latest edition promises to show its well-manicured, glitter-obsessed fans why the famed exhibition (one of the biggest in the region) is so beloved by all. Trust us, this is definitely where you want to buy your jewellery essentials from, but warning, this will get expensive! www.jewelleryarabia.com
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NOV
Where: Doha, Qatar When: 26 – 28 November What: Calling all Pilates bunnies! Have we got a treat for you. Our favourite Doha-based Pilates haven LuzLife Studio is bringing the Joseph Pilates movement to a whole new level in the Qatari capital come November. Taking place in the zen room of the hip studio that is LuzLife will be a three-day classical Pilates workshop with none other than Amy Kellow, creator of Everybody Pilates. With an A-list clientele, the UK-based guru’s hands-on individual training methods has earned her a bevy of loyal followers who swear by her bespoke fitness service. Need we say more? Start booking! www.luzlife.com
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Welcome To Wonderland
As Alice Temperley celebrates 15 years of Temperley London and her 40th birthday, SLT is invited inside her Somerset home for her annual fête and a peek at her SS16 collection. By Julia Seidl
When inspiration strikes Alice Temperley, we imagine not an invisible light bulb going off overhead, but instead a shimmering disco ball beginning to twirl. Despite her reputation for putting an ethereal and romantic spin on all she creates, the designer has an affinity for the flashy bedazzled object, though not in the way most would expect. “There is no greater feeling than relaxing in my disco ball bathtub looking out onto the rolling hills after a hard weeks work,” says the Brit of the mirrored mosaic Victorian tub that lies near the picture window in the bathroom of her Somerset estate. Soaking her troubles away isn’t the only way Alice incorporates her pet objet into her life. When describing her annual summer soirée, which this year corresponded with the celebration of her 40th birthday, the designer is sure to mention her gown for the evening. Specially created to coincide with the myths and legends theme of the night, her jewel-encrusted creation was an homage to the spinning sphere, or as Alice puts it quite simply, it was “an amazing disco ball dress.”
The stage for the evening was the grounds of her eight-bedroom house, once owned by newspaper tycoon Lord Beaverbrook and only eleven kilometres down the road from the cider farm where she grew up (a short jaunt to the converted chapel where her sister Mary lives). “It is the one time I can have all my closest friends and family together and dance the night away,” says Alice of her legendary gatherings, this one marking the 22nd of such annual parties. A gaggle of the designer’s closest friends, abiding by the corresponding dress code, danced the night away under the stars as they munched on barbecue and basked in the nectar of the gods. Oriental rugs served as makeshift dance floors while wild flowers adorned tented tabletops. It was a scene worthy of Martha Stewart herself. And for Alice, who already has a line of scented candles under her umbrella and who is on the cusp of adding a lifestyle section to her growing empire, it was one more arena for her to display her natural affinity for entertaining. “I love having lots of people and children all over the house with a packed dining room.”
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While she is still mum on what exactly will be included in the launch of the global lifestyle brand (the rumour mill is churning with buzz that first on the list is a housewares line), she credits her new CEO Ulrik Garde Due with helping her to streamline while still working on an expansion plan for the future. “The brand has grown almost faster than the collections and it is something that can do so much more. It breathes lifestyle,” says Alice. Under the guidance of Mr. Garde Due (formerly of Céline and Burberry), the entrepreneur has closed her diffusion line, Alice, and focused on her main line, Temperley London and Temperley Bridal, which offers two collections a year. Since launching her eponymous label in 2000, with former banker and then husband Lars
Partygoers frolic on the grounds of Alice's Somerset estate at her annual summer party. Guests abided by the myths and legends theme with festive costumes.
von Bennigsen, Alice has pushed full steam ahead with her business, at times feeling like she was stuck on a hamster wheel, as she once described. Trained at London’s Central Saint Martin’s College of Art with a Master Degree specialising in fabric technology and print from the Royal College of Art, the designer has left her mark on the runway and red carpet thanks to her ability to create saccharine dresses with a slight modern twist. Celeb fans with widely differing tastes, from Kate Middleton to Jennifer Lopez, have all given their sartorial nods of approval, as has the Queen of England who appointed her the Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire in 2011. “Receiving this was one of the highlights of my career, though at the time I did think it was a joke when I first found out,” admits the designer who also says she forgot to curtsey after being pinned by Queen Elizabeth. 15 years in and Alice admits it hasn’t been an easy road to travel, especially running a successful business as a single mother with her six-year old son Fox under her wing (the designer separated from her husband in 2011). “I had no idea how much having a child would change my whole world. Your child is your focus and everything else comes second. I’m lucky to be surrounded by friends and family
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who are a great support. I have remained very focused as a mother and with my brand and the tough times are over. I feel incredibly proud and very old sometimes - and nostalgic about the journey.” For now, the designer has her head down as she prepares for the Christmas celebration of Temperley London's anniversary. One such project is the launch of a book by luxury publisher Rizzoli that captures the myths and legends theme of this year’s summer party. Until then, she has her eye behind the lens of her new LeicaQ camera, a birthday gift from a close friend. Always willing to embrace new passions (painting is also one of her latest hobbies), we can’t help but wonder how many disco balls are twirling overhead right now.
"B ehind the scenes at SS16"
A Cuban vibe pulsed throughout Temperley London's SS 16 collection thanks to the heavily embroidered sundresses that begged to be packed for a vacation by the sea.
QUICK SIX Favourite city... London Can’ live without... Family and laughter Your ultimate luxury... My disco bath and my jewellery box
Best advice ever received... Trust yourself and follow your passion. Intuition is everything.
Inspiration...The work of Edith Head (right) Definition of style... Effortlessness
Music lovers will be clamouring to get their hands on Alice's folky bohemian dresses come festival time.
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the scene An inside tour of the parties, happenings and pulse of the gulf's bustling capitals. see who was snapped out and about.
FASHION’S NIGHT IN
With Dubai’s who’s who of the fashion world in attendance, from Rosemin Manjii and Hikmat Al Kaitoob to Lady Fozaza and Nadya Hassan, Etoile La Boutique and House of Bazaar pulled out all the stops for a night of glamour showcasing fall 15’s must-have pieces.
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GAME ON
Equipped with game day spirit, Tommy Hilfiger’s FW15 showcase at Dubai’s Art Sawa saw sport meet fashion as it introduced the new season's collection to the city’s high profile influencers and bloggers.
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TOP OF THE POP
For their first ever-collective exhibition in the UK, online art gallery Emergeast gathered a variety of artworks from 13 of their emerging artists at London’s Artspace Gallery for “Like", a pop-up exhibition curated by the platform’s followers.
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THE ULTIMATE INVITE
To celebrate the brand’s first store in Qatar, Michael Kors teamed up with stylist Alanoud Badr for an in-store shopping event where guests were treated to cocktails and entertained by a DJ. „
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SHINE BRIGHT
Doha’s elegant society ladies flocked to the Swarovski store for the ultimate luxe treat, a private viewing of the new Fall/Winter 15 collection. „
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HIGH NOTES
Pari Gallery hosted a beautiful event to celebrate the launch of “Guerlain: The Exclusive Collections�, a unique exhibition by the French beauty brand.
TASTE OF INDIA
Contemporary restaurant Signature by Sanjeev Kapoor opened its spicescented doors at the Melia Doha with Master Chef Sanjeev Kapoor himself attending the grand launch.
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Our WorldWide Sales Network If you would like to advertise in Sur la Terre Arabia from outside the GCC, we are represented globally through a growing network of international sales representatives.
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Covets
FUR REAL! Part shaggy slipper, part preppy loafer, fall’s most coveted flat comes courtesy of Gucci, whose hybrid take on the classic slip-on has created a cult-status accessory with every fashion insider vying to get their pretty manicured toes into a pair.
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