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contents
issue 43
news smart fashion - 20 Is wearable technology the future of fashion? Sophie Jones-Cooper finds out why the industry is going all out digital this season
the new line up - 22 Super-sized, bold graphic stripes and lines scream high impact appeal
from the future- 23 Metallic accents and futuristic embellishments take centre stage as fashion takes on a modern space age feel
jaunts in jeddah - 25 Stylist and Saudi Arabia-based Aram Kabbani shares her must –dos when in the buzzing city
lanvin's new lady - 26 Everything you need to know about the maison’s new artistic director Bouchra Jarrar
a fierce fit - 27 Influencer Nadya Hasan, founder of online style haven The Fierce Diaries, debuts a new line of 1920’s-inspired SS16 footwear collection
fine feathers - 28 Known for its famed feather dials, the Dior VIII Grand Bal Cancan gets a fresh new colour scheme just in time for the spring season
blue jean baby - 29 Starlit midnight blue diamonds and other precious stones prove to be awfully bedazzling and quite the conversation piece if you are looking for one
love is in the air - 30
On the Hunt-38
Moda Operandi supports ethical fashion with the launch of Middle Eastern jewellery brand Seeme
A look behind-thescenes at FFWD 16
connected - 31 Tag Heuer jumps on the tech bandwagon with the world’s first smart luxury watch the Anroid Wear. Find out everything you need to know about the new smart watch here!
cool wrists - 31 From Karl Lagerfeld to Queen B herself, it seems that even celebrities have been bitten by the smart watch bug
STYLE flash forward - 32 Sharp lines, sleek finishes and high shine metal - the future of fashion is out of this world
new arrivals - 38 Highlights of our favourite up and comers at Fashion Forward Dubai who are already in a league of their own
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Travel Diary - 56 The region's hottest trio share their secrets to the Gulf
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issue 43
BEAUTY la vie en rose - 43 Notice-me sculpting had its moment in the sun. What’s blooming for spring are soft flushed cheeks with just a hint of shimmer
the net set - 44 Available online only, these beauty entrepreneurs turned their digital dreams into reality with their own lines of niche cosmetics and savvy skincare solutions
play laser sharp - 46 Bespoke suiting goes 3D with digital body scanning technology for a custom fit like no other
assisted living - 47 Hack your way through life with these apps designed to make your daily routine a whole lot easier
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plug in - 47 PR Director at one of the leading luxury PR agencies in the Middle East, Shawn Stephens breaks away from it all just enough to share with us what it’s like to live in his digital world
joy ride - 48 The launch of the fourth generation Toyota Prius isn’t just a step up in the hybrid game. It’s also the first time the Japanese automaker has introduced the Prius to the GCC. SLT heads to Tokyo for one very smooth - and very eco-friendly - ride
life the journal - 51 With summer already making an unexpected appearance, SLT is going city hopping around the Middle East before it gets too hot, bouncing from one buzzing capital to the next, with tips from some of the most stylishly influencial women in our region
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globetrotter - 52 Dine, dream and delight your senses like a local with the latest hotel openings, restaurant launches and luxurious goings-on for the global traveller. This is a must-have list for those planning a trip soon
around the world - 54 You don't need a dirndl or a pair of lederhosen to feel like part of the scene in Munich. Grab a stein and soak it all in
keeping it local - 56 Whether it’s dining under a blanket of stars or dune hopping around the sand banks of the desert, the Middle East offers an immense playground just waiting to be discovered
double trouble - 64 Palestinian twins Simi & Haze Khadra are proving that two is definitely better than one
Sister Act - 64 Find out everything about the world's coolest twins
culture the list - 70
features
fashion attack - 72
SLT sits down with Moda Operandi’s CEO Deborah Nicodeamus, to find out her thoughts after her visit to Dubai’s FFWD 16
film forward - 73 From rumbling 4DX motion sensor cinema seats to the must-see mini series on Instagram, a new era of film is upon us
carla sozzani - 74 Curator Andrew Bolton gives us a behind-the-scenes look at the MET's new exhibition
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Digital artist Zaina El Said shares her views on her divine works and what they represent
Find out what’s going on in and around the Gulf, from the hottest art shows to hit to the coolest bands to check out and the craziest markets not to miss out on
This season intergalactic fantasies and sci-fi chic are taking over the runways, thanks to a little movie magic
At the Met - 78
special effects - 82
Head of the world’s biggest concept store empire and a mainstay within Milan's art and design circles, Carla Sozzani shares the secrets to her success
fashion vs tech - 78 As the Met’s new Costume Institute exhibition 'Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology' opens this May, the show’s curator Andrew Bolton spills the beans on what we can expect
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on the hunt - 68
the scene - 84 An inside tour of the parties, happenings and pulse of the Gulf's bustling capitals
backpage coat collective - 92 Burberry’s perennial classic is back and with new faces from around the Middle East
Image Credit: Agency/CORBIS
ditor's letter
Remember “Video killed the radio star”? Back then when The Buggles dropped the super catchy hit that catapulted MTV into stardom (it was after all the first music video shown on the channel) no one would have ever dreamed of the technological revolution to come. Flash-forward 35 years to the hyper-real cyber world craziness that is 2016. If you’re still barely getting the hang of Snapchat, well, you might as well just dust off that VCR and pop in a VHS or two. Because let’s be real, this is Generation Y’s time, where technology has touched on and impacted just about everything; from the way we shop to the way we work and play. MTV has been replaced with listen-as-you-go music apps such as Soundcloud and Spotify; downloading blockbusters and streaming films in the privacy of your own home is the new way to watch things (ever heard of Netflix and chill?); and Instagram feeds have become (wait for it) better than any gallery. Digital innovation doesn't stand still - you either jump on the bandwagon or risk getting permanently left behind. So this issue we did just that – looked for those making waves, waves of the digital kind of course. In The Net Set (page 44) six beauty entrepreneurs turn their digital dreams into reality, launching their very own lines of niche cosmetics and savvy skincare solutions. Our Play section (pages 4649) follows suit, quite literally, showcasing four of the hottest boutiques worldwide tossing out the tape measure for 3D bespoke suiting. Find out where to go for that custom fit!
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With the Gulf’s weather at its finest right now and our Insta-feeds exploding with stunning locales as far as ones’ fingers can scroll, we turned to Middle Eastern influencers Dalia Nsouli, Tala Soubra and Bana Abujaber, for their insider tips on what to do, see and explore in the wonderful GCC. Forget about jetlag - who needs Europe and the Americas when right at your doorstep there’s a world waiting to be discovered. Check out the trio’s detailed city guides for the very best of the #MiddleEast. If you’re like most and have been living behind a screen (be it computer, phone, tablet, whatever) you have most likely come across the world’s hottest double act: Simi & Haze Khadra. The Los Angeles-based, Palestinian duo is making waves as they try their talented hands at everything, from DJing to modelling, proving that great things do come in twos! And finally, for those fashion, art and technology devotees who plan on hopping over to New York this May for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s new Costume Institute exhibition Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology, we got the inside scoop for you as the show’s curator Andrew Bolton spills the beans on what to expect from the highly anticipated showcase.
. sur la terre . editor's letter .
Dina Kabbani
senior Editor
@SLTM iddleE a s t
slt arabia
ontributors “The electronic device I can’t live without would be my laptop. It’s like a time machine in a way, storing each story and interview I’ve written over the years.” - Declan Etcan, who interviews Carla Sozzani, shares the one piece of technology he would never give up
“El Said utilises the technique of collage art, both digital and hand cut, to create art where no specific time era or space is visible. Her pleasure in working with collage is the sublime timelessness each piece presents.” - Emergeast’s Dima Abdul Kader & Nikki Meftah, on the Middle East’s new face of digital art Zaina El Said
“A message to all socially active influencers. Don’t you think you should leave your phone aside and enjoy the moments life is offering you? This time and moment will never come again.” - PR Director and man about town Shawn Stephens dishes out some advice to the digitally addicted
“Desert camping in the north. It's highly recommended and super Instagram-worthy.” - Style vixen Dalia Nsouli on where to get off the grid in Doha
“For me, sunset equals the beach. There’s nothing more relaxing then sitting on the cool sand and watching the sky change colours while the sun goes down.” - Digital influencer Tala Soubra shows us what spots to hit when in Dubai for an unforgettable few days in the buzzing emirate
“For me it may be some time before I’ll found hanging a Google next to my Gucci or an Intel next to my Isabel Marant.” - Writer Sophie Jones-Cooper expresses her feelings on the new wearable technology movement in fashion
“I love how easy it is to find answers to questions, look up directions and be able to shop online 24/7 but I also hate how easy it is to be digitally connected. What happened to being able to escape for a while, uninterrupted? Snuggling up under a down duvet with a good book is the best way to unplug.” - Julia Seidl, our Editor-at-Large, on what she thinks of the digital world we live in
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“Walking through Rainbow Street and downtown is one of my favourite things to do especially when I’m shooting for my blog. Definitely a must-do if you are ever in town.” - Fashion blogger Bana Abujaber on places to check out in Amman
. sur la terre . contributors .
DETAILS Director of Publications Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com General Manager Joe Marritt j.marritt@firefly-me.com Senior Editor Dina Kabbani d.kabbani@firefly-me.com Editor-At-Large Julia Seidl j.seidl@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper
Sur la Terre International S.A.
Staff Writer Yara Jishi
Head office 26 avenue de la Praille 1227, Geneva, Switzerland. Tel: + 41 22 310 48 00 Fax: + 41 22 310 48 01
- Contributors Declan Etcan - Art & Design Creative Director Helen Louise Carter In-House Photography Jerome Elizaga Von Wyli Peñaranda Foto Arabia Finaliser Ron Baron
n. 43
SUR LA TERRE > ISSUE 43 > SPRING 2016
- International Sales International Sales Director Julia Toon j.toon@firefly-me.com - Sales & Marketing Area Manager, Doha Chirine Halabi c.halabi@firefly-me.com
the big picture
Senior Sales Manager, UAE Nesreen Shalaby n.shalaby@urjuan-me.com
digital blitz - like it or love it?
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- Printer Ali Bin Ali Printing Press, Doha, Qatar
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© 2015 Sur la Terre (SLT) is published bi-monthly by Firefly Communications. All material is strictly
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copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is prohibited. All content is believed to be factual at the time of going to print, and contributors’ views are their own derived opinions and not necessarily that of Firefly Communications or SLT. No responsibility or liability is accepted by the publishers or editorial staff for any loss to any individual or company, legally, financially or physically, as a result of any statement, fact, figure or expression of opinion or belief appearing in SLT. The publisher does not officially endorse any advertising or advertorial content for third party products. Photography and image credits, where not otherwise stated, are those of Getty/Gallo Images and/or Shutterstock or iStock Photo and/or Firefly Communications, each of which retains their individual copyrights.
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MAKING SENSE OF SMART FASHION David Bowie circa 1973
Is wearable technology the future of fashion? If this season is anything to go by, perhaps our underwear can tell us Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
Wearable technology is certainly nothing new. With each season comes the latest tech-led dress or smart garment stealing the limelight away from classic tailoring and true fashion focused design. We had Ralph Lauren’s PoloTech shirt and Diane Von Furstenberg’s collobaration with Google Glass smart glasses a few seasons back, but more often than not, these designs are just a flash in the pan failing to make it from the front-page headlines to our wardrobes (with the exception of the Apple Watch). True fashionistas don’t seem interested in code-ridden frocks or video-enabled glasses. A pair of trainers that measure your heart rate mid-jog. Perhaps. When it comes to wearable technology, there are two distinct categories - tech-powered clothing (think yoga pants incorporating wireless sensors for coaching tips) and sartorial separates which incorporate technology and push the boundaries of design, for example,
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Image Credit: Moez Achour
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ucci’s Alessandro Michele may have hailed the rebirth of geek chic this season, with his model troupe of eccentric beauties marching down the SS16 runway, but the revenge of the nerds is not limited to granny glasses and floral carpeted frocks. Taking geek chic to super high-tech status, the world of technology has once again teamed up with some of our favourite designers to grace the runways with their digitally mastered designs. Big hitters including Google, Intel and Apple, have all entered the fashion arena this season for a little fun, or as some would say, seriously high-tech stylings.
LED lit gowns and 3-D printed works of art. With these two styles of wearable tech come two very different buyers. The former attracts the tech boffins in search of the most state-ofthe art trackers and notification gadgets, who really don’t give two hoots about traditional fashion. The latter captures the attention of the style set, looking to make a statement with the most headline-making feat of design. Somewhere in the middle of these two camps is where most of us can be found. Happy to move with the times, track the odd fitness status but not requiring our jacket to take our holiday snaps for us. This season once again though, designers and collaborators are keen to win us over with their ‘smart’ offerings. For their latest watch
. sur la terre .news .
creation, Apple has teamed up with Hermès, hoping to bridge the gap between luxury and technology. At New York Fashion Week SS16, Intel showcased designs which track biometrics to trigger shape-shifting movements. And model of the moment Coco Rocha showed off Zac Posen’s collaboration with Google - a ‘Made with Code’ dress featuring changing pattern LED lighting. These latest offerings, combined with the rise in popularity of the Fit Bit, mean that if we do embrace wearable technology we won’t need to fully update our wardrobes every season. Instead, we’ll simply update the software. For me though, it may be some time before I’ll be hanging a Google next to my Gucci or an Intel next to my Isabel Marant.
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Tommy Hilfiger
Balenciaga
Marc Jacobs
Stuart Weitzman
Dolce & Gabbana
Moschino
THE NEW
Dior embraces striping of the vertical variety
LINE UP
Add some high impact appeal with super-sized, bold graphic stripes
Paule Ka
Iris & Ink @ Theoutnet.com
Dior
Tory Burch
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
Tod's
Big and bold is the motto this season at Max Mara
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Christian Louboutin
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Louis Vuitton
Balenciaga Chanel serves up spring on a silver platter
Opening Ceremony @ Bysymphony.com
ChloĂŠ
Giuseppe Zanotti
Chanel
Dior Anita Ko
OUT OF THIS WORLD
Give your wardrobe a modern space age blast with high shine metallic accents and futuristic embellishments
Bold retro-esque accessories look back to the future at Marni
Roksanda @ Bysymphony.com
Loewe
Versace
Emilio Pucci
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
Temperley London
DKNY
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Jaunts inJeddah editor’s pick
Saudi Arabia-based stylist Aram Kabbani shares her selects for your next visit to the buzzing city. SHOP: For the best in luxury, Boulevard and Khayayt Center are must-visits. DO: For a real taste of Saudi take a tour of the old town, then head on over to the Corniche by the beautiful red sea for some pictures. PACK: A white Alexander Wang dress for a fresh look, a Rick Owens sweater in case it gets chilly, Joshua Sanders sneakers to stay comfortable and a Chanel backpack to tote around the kingdom. STAY: After hopping all over the city, rest your head at the Park Hyatt. „
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O #C
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R I G HT G N I ET
BOUCHRA JARRAR LA N VIN’S LEADING LADY What to know about the maison’s new artistic director...
W
ith summer slowly creeping in, sole mecca Level Shoes is taking the humble espadrille and giving it a makeover in an exclusive capsule collection in collaboration with All Things Mochi designer Ayah Tabari and Mary Katrantzou. The ladies, both known for their affinity for bold designs and even louder patterns, each injected their signature prints and motifs into the perennial resort favourite. The results are some very eye-catching slip-ons that are a must-have when beach season hits. www.levelshoes.com
1. She’s of Moroccan Descent The French designer was born in the seaside town of Cannes to Moroccan parents. 2. Killer Resume The 45-year-old designer worked under Christian Lacroix (where she was couture head of design) and Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga (as studio director) before launching her namesake label in 2010. 3. In with the Big Boys Jarrar’s eponymous label became a couture house in 2013 when the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture granted her its official appellation. 4. Girl Power She is the fourth woman to take the design helm at Lanvin, despite the house being founded by one (Jeanne Lanvin) back in 1889. Watch out for her first collection for Lanvin, which will debut SS17.
editor’s pick
Chloé
www.shopatsauce.com
HAMMER TIME
Dubai gets all dolled up for a good cause
D
ubai’s Sauce Boutique has collaborated with Dumyé on #27dresses, a project launched to raise awareness and support of charity organisation Start. At a silent auction at The Annex Burj Khalifa, Dumyé dolls dressed in creations by regional designers Rami Kadi (middle), All Things Mochi, Reem Al Kanhal and international talents Self Portrait, Notte by Marchesa (left), and Maria Lucia Hohan (right), went under the hammer with all proceeds going to help refugees, orphans and children with special needs across the Middle East and India.
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. sur la terre . news .
ARM CANDY
Available in two sizes, Chloé's new limited-edition Drew Bag - made exclusively for the UAE and KSA - is the hottest thing to tote around this side of the GCC.
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LOOK OUT FOR...
Image Credit: The Fierce Diaries
A FIERCE FIT
WHAT: Rami Al Ali’s FW16 pret-a-porter collection WHERE: This May at Fifty One East & Dress Me, Qatar WHY: The latest from our favourite regional fashion hero, the collection emphasises the raw beauty of the womanly figure, focusing on traditional accents but with a contemporary twist, proving that Al Ali is king when it comes to honouring the signature feminine aesthetic. www.ramialali.com
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standout shoe is the most accessible way to make a statement without being too showy about it. Influencer Nadya Hasan, founder of online style haven The Fierce Diaries, is doing just that with the debut of her 1920’s-inspired SS16 footwear collection. Between the dreamy shades, soft pony hair and lacey numbers, making a style statement is way too easy. Available at Galeries Lafayette at Dubai Mall, The Luxury Arcade at World Trade Center Abu Dhabi, and online at www.nadyahasan.com
Bettmann/CORBIS
#showtosee
Parisian shoemaker Roger Vivier is sharing his story with the world in a travelling exhibition that will be bouncing around the Middle East. Stopping first in Dubai, the “Icons Connected” will pay tribute to the man behind the eponymous label, showcasing some of the luxury maison’s most iconic pieces. From Queen Elizabeth's 1952 coronation shoes to designs worn by Elizabeth Taylor and Brigitte Bardot, this is one for the shoe addicts. The Roger Vivier “Icons Connected” exhibition will run from May 3-14 at The Dubai Mall.
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A R N OW E W
© © WATFORD/Mirrorpix/Corbis
M
ade from 18K gold and often paired with precious and semi-precious stones, Elena Syraka’s Noor contemporary jewellery collection is steeped in history, paying tribute and often taking inspiration from EasternMediterranean civilisations. www.elenasyraka.com
FINE FEATHERS C oo over F rench masion
dior ' s
latest timepieces
T
thanks to their famed feather dials, the Dior VIII Grand Bal Cancan is anything but subtle this season with a fresh new colour scheme that would ruffle just about any peacock’s feathers. A bright palette of blue, yellow and red plus grey and white set the stage for pretty delicate diamonds and matching leather straps, with a limited production of only 88 pieces. www.dior.com
BOUCHERON’S BLEU DE JODHPUR A n homage to the F rench jeweller ’ s ties to I ndia
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he outcome of a magical encounter between Boucheron’s creative director, Claire Choisne, and the current Maharaja of Jodhpur, His Highness Gajsingh II, the jeweller’s latest High Jewellery collection is an ode to India, a country that holds special significance for the 157-year-old Parisian maison. Enter the standout piece - the Jodhpur necklace. Set with a 6.0 ct. kite diamond, marble, rock crystal and paved with sapphires and diamonds on white gold, this is definitely the pièce de résistance. www.boucheron.com
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. sur la terre . news .
Van Cleef & Arpels
Chopard Haute Joaillerie
SSSSHHH! IT’S A SECRET
D
ating back to the 18th and 19th centuries when women’s timepieces were created to double as pendants and brooches, secret watches have since become an artful blend of meticulous gem settings, and of course ingenious design. Today, these jewel masterpieces are the chicest way to tell the time.
1.
Dior Fine Jewellery 2. The Signature de ChanelCampaign
BLUE JEAN BABY
Starlit midnight blue diamonds, sapphires and other precious stones prove to be awfully bedazzling and quite the conversation piece if you are looking for one!
ALL HANDS ON DECK
T his season it ’ s time to set sail as Ulysee N ardin introd u ces not one b u t two fine timepieces that are j u st asking to be tried , tested and taken to sea . T he G rand D eck M arine T o u rbillon and D iver C hronograph H ammerhead S hark are proof that when it comes to matters of the water , nobody does it better than the l u x u ry S wiss watch man u fact u rer . www.ulysse-nardin.com
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1. Cartier Tortue Secret Watch in 18k white-gold 2. Chanel Signature Diamond Secret Watch in 18-karat white gold with a 5.26-carat briolette diamond 3. Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewellery Rubis Secret Watch with white and pink gold, diamonds and 115 oval-cut rubies set case
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LADY LUCK
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ist came Love, then came Juste un Clou and now Cartier has us hooked with their latest collection Amulette de Cartier - a series of pink and yellow gold talismans designed to act as precious lucky charms. The pendants open and close as a padlock would, so you can unlock your wishes, then close them again to protect your luck. www.cartier.com
ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE
M
oda Operandi supports ethical fashion with the launch of Middle Eastern jewellery brand Seeme. The online luxury retailer debuted the line (based on hearts made by women determined to survive) in support of the movement to replace violence with love amongst women in the region. www.modaoperandi.com
RAINBOW HUES
Ya Noor El Ain “ I t is always inspiring and self challenging when one collaborates with an international brand , coming u p with something tr u ly e x cl u sive that also resonates closely with my signat u re design ethos . Using pearls for Y a N oor E l A in was a bea u tif u l voyage into a world , which I normally do not to u ch u pon . I t was a poignant jo u rney of discovery for me personally as an artist , � Nadine Kanso on her collaboration with Robert Wan on t h e Ya N o o r E l A i n r i n g. www.robertwan.com
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F
ounded back in 1969 by three master goldsmiths from Valenza, RCM has produced some of the finest jewellery to come out of Italy. And following in the footsteps of her father Lorenzo Ricci (the R of RCM) is Emilia Carolina, who is bringing a modern feel to the heritage brand with Emelia, a collection of stunning pieces for the 21st century. www.rcmgioielli.it
CONNECTED...
Tag Heuer introduces the world’s first smart luxury watch
COOL WRISTS
It seems that pop stars, celebs and even the Kaiser of fashion are just as addicted to wearable tech as the masses.
www.tagheuer.com
BeyoncÉ
Karl Lagerfeld
Drake
katy perry
" T he T A G H e u er C onnected watch gives yo u the means not only to connect to the f u t u re , b u t also to connect to eternity . " - J e a n - C l a u d e B i v e r , CEO o f T A G H e u e r & P r e s i d e n t o f t h e LV M H G r o u p 's Wa t c h e s D i v i s i o n .
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Pharrell
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he s e s i in k f s‌...th e e of l s , s m etal o ut e n e s p li sh i n io n i . Sharh igh fa sh orld d an u re of i s w th fut
Giuseppe Zanotti leather stiletto.....
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.....CĂŠline transparent acetate sunglasses
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Dior white gold earrings.....
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.....Dior metallic calfskin bag
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S/S 2016
Aigner iridescent leather bag.....
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.....Prada sequin ball earrings
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New Arrival s
At Fashion Forward Dubai, a new breed of super star designers showed off their wares.
SLT highlights our favourite up and comers who are already in a league of their own.
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Hussein Bazaza
From: Beirut, Lebanon Launch Date: 2012 Claim to fame: Interned at Maison Rabih Kayrouz in Paris before Elie Saab snapped him up to join his design team. FW16 inspo: A medieval princess who has found the secret to immortality. (We’ll take a bottle of that!) Why we love him: His gowns inspire a fairytale ending. „
Materials: cashmere, chiffon, lace . sur la terre . style .
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Kristina Fidelskaya
Based in: Dubai, UAE Launch Date: 2014 Made in Italy: A former student at Dubai’s Esmod Fashion Institute, the designer produces her contemporary luxury pieces in Italy. FW16 inspo: The search for harmony, for balance – the yin and yang. The results? Mixed textiles and minimalistic silhouettes. Why we love her: Classic enough to wear to a job interview, her pieces are still cool enough for the street (just ask street style star Natalia Shustova, far right, in Kristina Fidelskaya).
Materials: silk, cashmere, jacquard
Soltana 40
From: Tunisia Launch Date: 2015 It’s a bling thing: Her flashy, sequin-adorned pieces belong on the stage. If Beyoncé is looking for a new tour designer, Soltana designer Fatma Ben Soltane is her gal. FW16 inspo: The opulent gilded crowns worn in ancient Rome. Why we love her: Show stopping pieces for your inner showgirl. Enough said.
. sur la terre . style .
Materials: silk, sequins, embroidery
Lama Jouni
From: Lebanon Launch date: 2013 Why we love her: Before striking out on her own, she cut her teeth at Balmain, Rad Hourani and Reed Krakoff. Translation? She’s got mad skills.
Salta
From: Kazakhstan Launch date: 2008 Why we love her: Designer Saltanat Baimukhamedova’s billowy silhouettes beg for a warm summer breeze to rustle their folds. Anyone who can make oversized shapes look this good is a winner in our book.
Sotra
From: Saudi Arabia Launch date: 2015 Why we love them: Any designer bold enough to put a hefty dose of white in a fall collection deserves major accolades. Designers Nouf Hakeem and Mariam bint Mahfooz do white right.
Jelena Bin Drai
From: United Arab Emirates Launch date: 2014 Why we love her: Gowns that evoke Valentino and statement making toppers that make an outfit all on their own – what’s not to love?
Bedouin
Bint Thani
From: United Arab Emirates Launch date: 2012 Why we love her: We’ve seen the future of fashion and it’s Khulood Thani’s almost dystopian-like cuts. We say, bring it on!
Based in: London Launch date: 2014 Why we love her: Central Saint Martins graduate Andraya Farrag makes us want to reach out to the runway and touch the bevy of rich, tactile textures that make up her collection.
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La Vie en Rose
Notice-me sculpting had its moment in the sun. What’s blooming for spring are soft flushed cheeks with just a hint of shimmer.
Top row from left: Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick Compact in Rose, Nars The Multiple in Copacabana, Estée Lauder Pure Colour Blush in 06 Hot Sienna. Second row from left: Chanel Sunkiss Ribbon Powder Blush Harmony, Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour Stick Blush in 22, Sephora Collection Colourful Blush in 10 Oh My Gosh! Nars The Multiple in Puerto Vallarta. Third row from left: Dior Diorskin Nude Air Glow Powder in 003 Warm Tan, Sephora Collection MicroSmooth Baked Sculpting Contour Trio in Sassy
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The Net Set Wa n
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these beauty entrepreneurs, whose wares are only available online, turned their digital dreams into reality with their own lines of niche cosmetics and savvy skincare solutions.
www.stowawaycosmetics.com
www.trestique.com
www.wanderbeauty.com
Founders Chelsa Crowley & Julie Fredrickson
Founders Jack Bensason & Jennifer Kapahi
Co-Founder & supeRmodel Lindsay Ellingson
Bigger isn’t always better. Ask Stowaway founders and buds, Chelsa and Julie. Frustrated by their ever-expanding makeup bags, the duo has drawn from their experiences as a former makeup artist and digital marketer, respectively, to create a line of “right-sized” premium products. Their travel-friendly sizing means you aren’t stuck with three quarters of a tube of lipstick before the expiry date arrives.
If someone told us they could cut our morning makeup routine down to five minutes flat, we’d say, pass us a stopwatch. That was the goal of these two beauty industry gurus when they launched last spring. The line is chockfull of multi-tasking sticks with built-in brushes and sponges for a complete kit that weighs less than 0.5 lbs.
Effortless Eyeliner: At only three inches tall, this pint-sized pencil sets in 30-seconds, a nonnegotiable combination for any woman on the go.
Bronzer Stick Thanks to a custom magnetic seal, you never have to worry about the cap coming off this creamy bronzer and leaving a sun-kissed glow inside your Chanel 2.55 bag. Leave that for your cheeks.
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Wander Cushion |Keep your fingers out of the equation and use this latex-free sponge to create a streak-free finish with your foundation.
Highlight Stick Strobe your way to Kardashian-worthy cheekbones with this subtle yet shimmery highlighter. Exquisite Eye Liquid Shades |You can skip the eye cream with these green tea, aloe and Vitamin C and E-infused shadow sticks.
Extreme Lash Mascara | You never have to worry about your mascara drying out with this mini-me version. Extra long lashes are only a swipe away.
Cheek & Lip Rouge Jam packed with moisturising cocoa and shea butter plus apricot kernel oil, this creamy twoin-one proves good things do come in small packages.
You’d expect a model who has walked the runway for Chanel, Dior and Gucci to pick up a few beauty tricks backstage. Enter Wander Beauty, the brainchild of model Lindsay Ellingson. The skincare-infused makeup (translation: super hydrating) draws on the supermodel’s countless hours spent in the makeup chair. She puts her informal beauty school education to work in the beautifully packaged and super luxe product line.
Concealor Crayon |Streak marks and dirty fingers are a thing of the past thanks to the tear drop shaped rubber blender built into one end of this concealing stick.
LIP Crayon |A shiny lip balm on one side and a matte Crayola-shaded crayon on the other equals the perfect lippie.
. sur la terre . beauty .
On the Glow Blush and Illuminator | The hero product of the collection, this cream-to-powder multi-tasker is a blessing for a picture-perfect selfie. Bonus points for the inclusion of HD pigments.
" Fo r m u l at e d fr o m go o d -fo r -yo u i ng r e di e nt s t hat ar e i n fac t c o m p l e t e l y e di b l e - t hi nk kal e, A fr i c an c u c u m b e r, c o c o nu t o il and
d rago n fr u it - it’s e v e r y he al t h nu t s d r e am c o m e t r u e ." - Tr u l y O r gani c
www.trulyorganic.com
www.ilnp.com
Founder Jessica Lafleur
Founder Maxx Appelman
Founder Barbra Salet
Handcrafted in her Montreal, Canada studio, Jessica uses a “slow-apothecary” process to create micro-batches of her in-demand vegan skincare line. Crafted from botanical ingredients, Stark’s aim is to help city dwellers by focusing on repairing environmentally damaged skin. UV rays and pollution are no match for her fresh goodies.
This 100% organic, vegan line of hair and skin products gives new meaning to the term “pure”. Formulated from good-for-you ingredients that are in fact completely edible - think kale, African cucumber, coconut oil and dragon fruit - it’s every health nuts dream come true. And its monthly subscription-based delivery system means you’ll never have to do without.
Before she formulated her own line of cult polishes, lacquer lover Barbra created a Facebook page as an ode to her favourite polish shades. Aptly named, I Love Nail Polish (ILNP), the page soon turned into an Etsy store where she sold her own line of 3-Free polishes, all made in the USA. Four years later, the indie cult brand is going strong with new shades and formulations debuting every season.
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Everlasting Calm & Smooth Infusion |Like a thirst-quenching drink for your skin, this super serum soothes inflamed complexions.
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Health Scalp Super Shampoo Tame tangles and knots even before you condition with a little help from this paraben-free daily wash. Deep Sea Mud Scrub Super body bars Get that Hammam-like feeling with this super exfoliating soap loaded with sea salt and whole grain sugars.
Green Tea Detox Clay Mask Banish blemishes with this mineral rich weekly mask. Two types of clay - rhassoul and French green - work their detoxifying magic while the alpha hydroxy acid found in apple extract exfoliates dead skin.
White Willow Bark Perfecting Tonic You can practically hear your skin give a sigh of relief after a spritz of this anti-oxidant rich astringent.
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Ultra Chromes We never thought it was possible to replicate the rainbow of shades found in an oil slick but ILNP did just that with their chrome line and now we don’t know how we did without the multi-shaded bottles.
Spring 2016 collection Pretty pastels meet molten metals in the latest collection from the princess of polish. Our picks include Apricot Cream for mastering the mannequin mani and Skyscraper for a bolt of blue.
Ultra Rich Super Face Cream |Ultra moisturising oils from sunflower, olive and coconut help battle fine lines while minimising pores.
. sur la terre . beauty .
Spring 2016 jellies For a glass-like shine and sparkly finish, swipe on one or multiple coats of ILNP’s jellie collection. A completely opaque finish is only three coats away.
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Laser Sharp
Toss out the tape measure. Bespoke suiting goes 3D with digital body scanning technology for a custom fit like no other. NEW YORK Acustom Do you have 15 minutes? Then you have time to order a custom suit at Acustom’s Soho boutique. Their 3D body scanner named Molly (whose sultry voice guides clients through the process) collects 200,000 data points to create a three-dimensional model of your body in a matter of seconds. Combine that data with your fit preferences and in three to six weeks, you’ll be strolling down Mercer Street in your new threepiece. Molly also lends a hand when it comes to measuring for other items of custom clothing from jeans to shirts. www.acustom.com
is moving abroad. But Gay Giano is hoping to change that with their 3D measuring technology. 14 infrared sensors (eight aimed at the front of the body, six at the back) provide 120 precise measurements in a matter of minutes. Compare that to the 25 measurements traditionally taken by tailors with a measuring tape and it’s no doubt that your custom suit will fit like a glove. www.gaygiano.com
LONDON Tailor Made London The Shoreditch shop combines the oldworld quality of Saville Row fabrications with the new-school technology of their in-house 3D body scanner. Sourcing over 3,000 seasonal fabrics from the finest British and Italian weavers (think Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Loro Piana), all suits are either half-floating canvas or fully canvassed using hand stitched natural fibers and horsehair - no fusing or glues used here. Their scanner produces body measurements within one tenth of a millimeter, meaning the best fit is just one consultation away (without any intrusive hands-on measuring). www.tailormadelondon.com
Traditional tailoring meets the 21st century with 3D body scanners. Below: High end Saville Row fabrications go high tech.
HONG KONG Gay Giano Despite its reputation as a go-to spot for high-quality tailoring, Hong Kong only houses about 200 tailors. Not a lot for a population that tops 7 million people. Cheaper labour in mainland China means business
A three-dimensional scanner produce s body
measurement s within one tenth of a millimeter,
meaning the be st fit is just one consultation away (without any intrusive hands-on measuring)
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DUBAI The Custom Shop The first bespoke tailor in the GCC to implement 3D body scanning technology, The Custom Shop has launched the concept in their Jumeirah Beach location. Boasting an accuracy rating of 76% more precise than measuring by hand, their body scanner gathers 300,000 data points to create your virtual shape. If you’ve been hitting the gym extra hard, they even offer repeat scans to compensate for any changes to your shape. Which may be a good idea since your scan concludes with a fitness report that measures your BMI, body fat percentage and ideal weight. TMI? Perhaps! www.customshoponline.com
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Assisted Living Need a PA? Look no further than your smartphone. Hack your way through life with these apps designed to make your daily routine a whole lot easier. It’s like having your very own butler in your pocket.
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The Social Convener Building on the Dunbar principle that believes humans can only successfully maintain sustainable relationships with 150 people, Next Society works with your social networking sites to determine the 150 people you really need or want to K.I.T. with, both personally and professionally. It’s a new social hierarchy.
The DJ Never miss a live performance of your favourite band with Songkick. The app scans your music library on your phone and notes your location to keep you informed of upcoming concerts in your area by artists you listen to the most. They even help you book tickets so you’ll never be at the mercy of scalpers again.
The Private Chef We’ve all been there - staring into a seemingly empty fridge without any idea what to cook. Enter Handpick. Dubbed a “food discovery app”, it helps you come up with recipe ideas by inputting whatever ingredients you have on hand. By combing cooking sites, food blogs and culinary magazines, it generates recipe ideas for anything from anchovies to acorn squash.
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SLT ARABIA plugs in...
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The Travel Agent
For your next vacay, go completely paperless without having to sort through a gazillion emails to find your hotel reservation, flight info, etc. Trip It keeps all your travel details in one easy place by creating a master itinerary. It also shares your itineraries with friends and even helps you snag the best seat on the plane.
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The Personal Shopper
Need a helping hand when picking out that new pair of loafers? PS Dept is a shopping app that connects you with personal stylists from major luxury brands like Gucci, Burberry and Lanvin. The brand reps do the shopping live from the boutique floor, sending you snaps of items that match your request. Free shipping and free returns are part of the deal.
The Personal Trainer A high tech version of a food journal, My Fitness Pal uses nutritional values from over 5 million foods to keep track of your calories while creating a food log so you can monitor your daily consumption. Their exercise tracker allows you to input over 350 types of physical activities to offset your calorie count. #Fitspo
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He’s the dapper PR Director at one of the leading Luxury PR agencies in the REGION, constantly surrounded by fashion press, street photographers and bloggers. Shawn Stephens breaks away from it all to share with us what it’s like to live in his digital world WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICE CAN’T YOU LIVE WITHOUT? My iPhone, which helps me stay connected with my family, friends and loved ones around the world. I can live without it but at the same time can’t imagine my life without it. SOCIAL MEDIA – LOVE IT OR HATE IT? If used in moderation can be a blessing but from what I see around me, it’s becoming more of a curse to society. WHAT IS THE DIGITAL TRAIT YOU HATE MOST IN OTHERS? It’s extremely annoying when you are talking to your second circle of friends and social acquaintances at a reception or dinner and they are constantly on their phone posting or snapchatting; how unhappy are all these men and women? HOW DIGITALLY ACTIVE ARE YOU? Off and on throughout the day. I never check my email when on the go though. Anyone and everyone has to wait for me to get to my laptop to receive a response. When I am digitally active, I am using WhatsApp, Instagram and Facebook to connect with family and loved ones. I use FlightStats to check flight status and the Mrporter.com app to make my online purchases. Zeina El Dana, our founder, convinced me to get an Instagram account and I enjoy it the most because of the photography and video aspect of it. It allows me a chance to share my life, quick and easy, from my perspective. Find me @theurbanmaharaja DO YOU EVER UNPLUG? I love to sleep almost 10-12 hours in the day and when I sleep, I am unplugged. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE DIGITAL AGE? The connectivity. One can connect with almost anyone in a matter of seconds across the globe, amazing!
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Joy Ride The launch of the fourth generation Toyota Prius isn’t just a step up in the hybrid game. It’s also the first time the Japanese automaker has introduced the Prius to the GCC. SLT heads to Tokyo for one very smooth - and very eco-friendly - ride.
It’s been
almost twenty years since Toyota debuted the world’s first mass-produced hybrid vehicle in 1997 but for drivers in the GCC, the launch of the 2016 Prius marks the first time they’ll be able to get behind the wheel. And lucky for us, it was worth the wait. The Japanese automaker rebuilt the fourth-generation Prius from the ground up, under the development concept of ‘a beautiful car for a beautiful Earth.’ According to Kouji Toyoshima, Chief Engineer of the Prius, joy played a prominent role in their concept: joy of efficiency, joy of ownership and joy of driving. Eco-enthusiasts looking to offset their carbon footprint will be overjoyed (pun intended) with the decrease in emissions. Each generation of Prius delivers on average a 10% reduction in CO2 emission than its predecessor, meaning the fourth generation offers the greatest chance at helping Mother Earth. Proving that bigger isn’t always better, the engineering team worked diligently at reducing the size and weight of the axes, electric motor, battery and
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gasoline engine to create a smaller and lighter hybrid system. The results? Better fuel economy and a maximum thermal efficiency of 40%, which is the world's highest level compared to mass-produced gasoline engines. Even though you won’t be taking your Prius off-roading any time soon, an all new double spindle rear suspension system has been developed to make for a bump-free ride while significant improvements have also been made in the shock absorbers on all four wheels. (We imagine you’ll be gracefully gliding over those speed bumps). A lower centre of gravity and a 60% more solid structure (thanks to the use of laser welding technology) means greater stability, reduced noise levels and much smoother turns. Talk about joy of driving. And thanks to newly re-designed seats that aim to reduce stress plus the inclusion of support pillows, never-ending traffic jams no longer have to be a nightmarish experience. That’s where the joy of ownership comes into play. When you’re as comfortable in your car as on your couch, the road ahead is infinite.
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The Hollywood A-listers who proudly park their Prius (or let the valet do it for them)
Prius by the numbers 1997
- Year Toyota introduced the first generation Prius
Harrison Ford
Natalie Portman
Bradley Cooper
Gwyneth Paltrow
3.5 Million - Number of Prius customers around the world Leonardo Dicaprio
Jessica Alba
Matt Damon
Demi Moore
60 - Percent more rigid structure of the 2016 Prius compared to earlier models
1.8 - Number of liters = engine size of 2016 Prius
1898 - Year that the first hybrid engine was created
40km - Maximum speed at which the vehicle will switch from electric motor to gasoline motor
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The Ja pa nese au t om a k er r ebuilt t he f ou rt hge ner ation Pr ius f rom t he grou n d u p, u n der t he de v el opme n t concep t of ‘a be au tiful c a r f or a be au tiful Ea rt h.’
- Number of horse power (combination of electric and gasoline engines)
40 - Percentage greater thermal efficiency of 2016 Prius than earlier models
43 - Number of litres of the fuel tank capacity www.toyota.com
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the journal
WITh SUMMER ALREADY making an unexpected appearance, SLT is going city hopping around the Middle East before it gets too hot, bouncing from one buzzing capital to the next, with tips from some of the most stylishly influencial women in our region. Find out what the pros of page-worthy shots, Dalia Nsouli, Tala Soubra and Bana Abujaber, have to say about Doha, Dubai and Amman. Across the ocean, Palestinian twins Simi & Haze Khadra are living it up, proving that two is definitely better than one. We try and live vicariously through their Instagram feed in “Double Trouble.” Plus, find out why Zaina El Said is the new face of digital art; how Carla Sozzani has managed to keep 10 Corso Como at the forefront of fashion; and why the MET’s new exhibition is all everyone is talking about.
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globetrotter Where To Dine, Dream And Delight Your Senses Like A Local – The Latest Hotel Openings, Restaurant Launches And Luxurious Goings-On For The Global Traveller.
MONACO Bubbly and Monaco go hand in hand so if both of these make it onto your spring wish list, jet yourself over to the tiny nation and check yourself into Hotel de Paris’ popup Dom Perignon suite. Monte Carlo regulars will be fully aware that the iconic hotel is closed for renovation for another three years, but its Suite 321 will be available to book until May 30th for the epitome of gourmet getaways. Kick off proceedings with a cocktail at the hotel’s Bar Américain (yes it remains open for hardy night cappers) before slipping away to your room for a bottle of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2006 followed by a five-course dinner inspired by the hotel’s Alain Ducasse restaurant and you guessed it, paired with even more bubbles. À votre santé! www.hoteldeparismontecarlo.com
HONG KONG Fans of J Sheekey (one of London’s finest seafood restaurants) will have to leg it all the way to Hong Kong as the eatery’s previous Head Chef James Cornwall takes to the helm of new restaurant Seafood Room in Causeway Bay. Opening this April from the Russian restaurateurs behind Movida and Cipriani in Dubai, Tower 535 offers an expansive interactive dining room complete with rooftop lounge and epic views of Victoria Bay. This is high dining in every sense of the word. www.seafoodroom.hk
MIAMI, COSTA RICA & CARRIBBEAN Private jets are certainly streamlining the way we travel and fast becoming the way to holiday today. So why not extend the pleasures to your next round of golf or golfing holiday, with the Four Seasons’ latest venture, the Private Jet Tropical Tee and Golf Tour? From April, enjoy a weeklong golf tour, playing 19 holes not only at one world-renowned championship golf course in the tropics but three – at the Four Seasons in Miami, Costa Rica and Nevis in the Caribbean. With space for up to twelve golfers, this could be just the sporting escapade you have been waiting for. www.fourseasons.com
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper, Helen Louise Carter
ROME The phrase ‘shop ‘til you drop’ is taken to a whole new level in Rome this year thanks to Italian fashion favourites Fendi who have created their very own private suites on the third floor of their flagship store in the heart of Rome’s fashion quarter on Via Condotti. With seven guestrooms and several communal lounges, the Fendi Private Suites offer Rome’s chic-seekers more than just another designer hotel but an opportunity to reside in a luxury clad seventeenth-century residence and the House of Fendi. www.fendiprivatesuites.com
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MIAMI SANTORINI With its iconic crescent shape, whitewashed cliff-clinging houses and a dormant volcano as a neighbour, Santorini is an island of beauty. The island’s historic village of Megalochori - literally meaning ‘Great Village’ - plays host to Feggera, a fantastically chic restaurant that magically blends ambience with new age Aegean cuisine. Blessed with scenic views of traditional blue domed roofs, epic sunsets and the Agean sea, the atmosphere conspires to make the perfect setting to unwind and bask in typical Greek company. Paying close attention to food quality sourced locally from both the island and Crete, as well as using it’s nine time award-winning Cretan olive oil, Feggera serves mouth-watering dishes such as chicken fillet with citrus sauce accompanied by black rice in basil sauce, as well as the alluring spinach salad with beetroot and posse egg. Not only that, but guests can hone their kitchen skills to impress friends with Feggera’s very own cooking courses, gaining expert knowledge in the preparation process of local traditional meals alongside the restaurant’s chef. www.feggera.gr
We ‘heart’ the relatively new Miami Design District but there is a new cultural district in town that is getting tails wagging - the Faena District Miami Beach. Nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Creek and spanning 32nd to 36th Street (where many of the yet-to-be-completed shops, restaurants, residences, public plazas and the highly anticipated arts space Faena Forum are popping up), the Faena Hotel Miami Beach, designed in collaboration with film director and producer Baz Luhrmann and his wife, is open for business. www.faena.com/miami-beach
TANZANIA Once the epitome of island escapism, luxury island resorts are now being railroaded in favour of private islands for those in search of an utter switch off. Set on a private marine reserve, Thanda Island (which opens this April) offers privacy and intimacy yet with all the staff and facilities you could wish for. This is all inclusive, including unlimited fine vinos and cigars, a private chef on call for bonfire beach dinners and picnics on the coral reef, not to mention a pristine 1.1km private beach on which to indulge in a private massage. Now how does that sound for an escape? www.thandaisland.com
CHICAGO For a celebration with a difference, why not book a trip stateside and check yourself and your plus ones in at DL Loft Space. Chicago’s party planner extraordinaire, Debi Lilly has recently opened this gorgeous and unique loft space or party-pad as we like to call it, in the heart of the city. The stunning property is beautifully designed and modelled on a chic Parisian apartment, with a DJ loft built in the balcony, an antique bar and bar cart for serving martinis. You can also have a sleep over, with accommodation for up to six guests (three-nights minimum). www.debililly.com/dl-loft/
LONDON Back in the late 19th Century, Victorian aristocrats, politicians and celebrities would stay at what is now known as 11 Cadogan Gardens in Chelsea, basically a home away from home for noble gentry. Today, the hotel is about to welcome a new era of guests, following an extensive one-year renovation. With the original distinct décor and Victorian features kept in tact - but every modern luxury attended to across the 56 rooms and 25 bespoke suites - this is one of London’s finest urban retreats. Whatever your requirement, you can count on award-winning Head Concierge Richie Long and his team. If reading is your penchant, the library’s collection of antique books dating back to 1845 should more than suffice or for lounging, why not settle in the Drawing Room for an indulgent afternoon tea? www.11cadogangardens.com
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where in the world . . . You don’t need a dirndl or a pair of lederhosen to feel like part of the scene in Germany’s third largest city. Home to the Glockenspiel, Oktoberfest and the BMW Museum, Munich is bursting with old world charm meets 21st century sophistication. Grab a stein and soak it all in! GARDEN STATE It’s easy to forget you’re in the middle of a bustling metropolis thanks to the many parks that dot Munich’s terrain. For sun bathing by the Isar River, grab a spot in the Englischer Garten, Germany’s answer to Central Park. Created in 1789, it’s much larger (and older) than New York’s urban lawn with over 3.7 square kilometres of green space. Or stop and smell the roses (literally) at Westpark. With over 20,000 roses and 500 different species, it’s not just the gardens that are impressive. Open-air movie screenings, live music and theatre shows are frequent events in the warmer months. Don’t forget your picnic blanket!
TO MARKET, TO MARKET You could grab lunch at one of Munich’s many Michelinstarred spots (try Tantris if you’re looking for gourmet goodness) or you could sample fresh bites from the over 140 stalls and shops in Munich’s über-market, Viktualienmarkt. Spread over 22,000 square metres, foodies can eat to their heart’s content in this open air market located in the city’s centre. Originally created in 1807, it’s a dizzying maze of butchers, cheese mongers and bakeries. Follow your nose to the ready-made delights on offer but you’ll have to fight the locals for a seat near the blue and white Maibaum (Maypole).
REGAL RUCKSACKS These luxury brands call Munich home
LIP SMACKERS Beyond brats and brew, these are the traditional Bavarian bites to order like a local
Aigner
MCM
Escada
Founded in 1965, the brand
Also known as Modern
Husband and wife team
still focuses on handmade
Creations München, their
Margaretha and Wolfgang
craftsmanship - and cutting
iconic logo pays homage to
Ley started the brand
edge designs - at their
Germany’s legendary King
in 1976, naming it after a
Munich Modelleria.
Ludwig I.
winning racehorse.
Whether you’re visiting during Oktoberfest or not, these are the “Big Six” breweries that dominate Munich’s suds scene > Hofbräuhaus, Löwenbräu, Augustiner, Paulaner, Hacker-Pschorr, Spaten
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Weisswurst: A southern German fave, this white veal stuffed sausage was once only served before noon. Now available all day, it’s still best to ask a Munichener the proper way to eat one (or risk giving away your tourist status).
Spargel: If you’re itching to sink your teeth into a piece of crunchy white asparagus, book your plane ticket for the spring when the markets are flooded with this delicacy.
Radler: This refreshing beverage is made up of 50% sparkling lemonade and 50% brew. Enjoy an icy cold stein at one of the city’s 180 outdoor biergartens. Prost!
Spezi: You’ll never drink a Coke the same way after you’ve wet your whistle with this bubbly refreshment. Part cola, part orange soda, it’s not just for kids.
Knödel: Germany’s take on the dumpling is a warm, soft round concoction crafted mainly from bread or potato. Try one in a piping hot goulash or as a side dish with a healthy dose of gravy.
Brezel: A trip to the bakery (or corner shop or tavern) isn’t complete without a warm, salty doughy pretzel. Smother yours with sweet or hot mustard for an extra treat.
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،ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﺗﻜﻮن ﺑﻌﻴﺪًا ّ ﻣﺠﻠﺔ أﻟﻒ ﺗﻘﺮّب اﻟﻤﺴﺎﻓﺎت ﻣﺠﻠﺔ أﻟﻒ ﻫﻲ ﻣﺠﻠﺔ ﺛﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﺨﻠﻴﺞ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻲ ﻗﺼﺺ�ﻋﻦ�ﺍ��ﻴﺎﺓ����ﺍ��ﻠﻴﺞ ﺳﺖ�ﻣﺮﺍﺕ����ﺍﻟﺴﻨﺔ�ﺑﺎﻟﻠﻐﺘ�ﻥ�ﺍﻟﻌﺮ�ﻴﺔ�ﻭﺍﻹﻧﺠﻠ��ﻳﺔ
When you're far, Alef brings you near Alef is the cultural journal of the Arabian Gulf Stories about life in the Gulf, six times a year in Arabic and English
@alefmagazine
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Ke e p i ng it l o c al o u r b e auti fu l r eg i o n wi ll have yo u stayi n g put for a wh i le Whether it’s dining under a blanket of stars, dune hopping around the sand banks of the desert or lounging on a luxury dhow under the blistering sun while sipping on lemon spritzers, the Middle East offers an immense playground just waiting to be discovered. Here, three of the region’s top influencers share snaps of the cities they live in, proving that you don’t need to hop on an 8-hour flight when right at your doorstep there is so much to see, do and explore. Read on to find out what buzzing hotspots to hit, where to grab the creamiest karak, how to maneuver the spice-scented souks like a pro, and more importantly, what to pack for an Instagram-worthy vacation.
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N A M E:
Dal ia N s o u l i
C IT Y:
DOH A , QATA R
@ da li a nsouli
Images: Dalia Nsouli
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START THE DAY OFF At the Four Seasons on the beach. They have excellent Lebanese and continental breakfast options, served seaside. MOST STYLISH ADDRESS I would say it’s the W Hotel. The staff is young and friendly and the crowd is always vibrant. The decor is modern and stylish and I think their restaurants are the best in town. I would recommend it if you’re looking for a stylish stay. Otherwise, there's the Four Seasons or the St Regis for a more classical option. HOTTEST TABLE IN TOWN Hakkasan, for both ambiance and good food! It’s constantly packed, with good music and service. WHERE THE COOL CROWD GOES Here in Doha, crowds are still very much based around restaurants and the most popular ones are Hakkasan at the St Regis, Opal by Gordan Ramsey and the Jazz Club. Nobu and Elements at the Four Seasons are good options, and Market by Jean Georges as well as NYC's Spice Market (both at the W) are always buzzing every day of the week. Stick to those hotspots and you’ll be sure to get a glimpse of the rich and beautiful. TOP THREE MUST-DOS WHILE IN TOWN Visit the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA), which is one of the most iconic buildings in Qatar designed by the legendary architect I.M. Pei. It has permanent and rotating exhibitions from around the world so there is definitely something for everyone. Head to Souq Waqif to experience Qatari culture first hand. Get lost in the tiny streets which are lined with small stores selling local textiles, artisanal finds and spices. Catch a dhow from the Corniche. This is how locals used to move around many years ago and the traditional small wooden boats are still used mainly for short touristic rides across the water, offering up perfect views of the city. SHOP THE MARKETS Fifty One East has the best selection of Western designers and a concession booth by Maria Luisa, which is heaven. You can find something for any occasion. If you’re looking for a more traditional selection then Souq Waqif would be a good place to go to for local textiles and designs. WHAT TO TAKE HOME Spices or pearls in my opinion; they’re both very traditionally Qatari and not very available elsewhere. BEST SPOT TO CATCH THE SUNSET The cafe at MIA. It’s practically in the water and you have the view of West Bay’s beautiful towers, the Corniche and of course, the sunset. They make excellent coffee and it’s in the heart of one of my favourite museums in Qatar. FOR THE PERFECT PICTURE A high tower from The Pearl or any high-rise hotel will give you a full view of the city and the beachfront; you can’t beat that! There’s the Anvil Rooms as well, a steak house at Tornado Tower, which has amazing views and steaks of course. GETTING OFF THE GRID Desert camping in the north. There are many tour operators and packages to choose from. They include activities such as dune bashing, eagle feeding, indulging in local cuisines in an open bonfire and other local activities. It’s highly recommended and super Instagram-worthy. WHAT TO PACK Qatar is a bit more conservative than UAE, but with the same climate. Pack for a hot summer but nothing too short. It’s important to respect local culture to properly enjoy your stay. Pack a beautiful summer dress for a nice dinner out and a swimsuit. Shorts and skirts are fine so long as they aren’t too revealing.
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N A M E: CIT Y:
Tal a S o u b ra
DUBA I, UA E
@ ta l a soubr a
Images: Tala Soubra
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BEST BREAKFAST SPOTS It all really depends on your mood. If you're craving something sweet then the Blueberry pancakes at Baker and Spice will hit the spot. But if you’re in the mood for something savoury, I would go for Raju Omlet on Sheikh Zayed road. For fifteen of the top brekkie recommendations in town, DB001 Dubai Breakfast is your best guide. TOP THREE MUST-DOS WHILE IN TOWN The Beach, the desert and restaurant-ing! MOST STYLISH ADDRESS I’m very picky with the hotels that I enjoy. Large, gaudy hotels will never hold my attention. My favourite hotel in Dubai is the Park Hyatt. It feels like a sanctuary; the cool blue and white colours and the fragrant smells take you to another place. On Friday afternoons the restaurant Traiteur has one of the best brunches in the city. WHERE TO SEE AND BE SEEN At the moment, a new sports bar called Brunswick Sports Club is taking everyone’s fancy. It has a relaxed vibe, with industrial cool interiors and really tasty bar food. HOTTEST TABLE IN TOWN That would probably be Cipriani in Dubai International Finance Centre. The food offerings are simple, but the vibe during the evening is electric. My favourite elements are the traditional saucer glasses for some bubbly as well as their small tables, which force intimacy with your fellow companions. BEST SPOT TO CATCH THE SUNSET For me, sunset equals the beach. There’s nothing more relaxing than sitting on the cool sand and watching the sky change colours while the sun goes down. You will probably find a Dutchies waffle in my hand though, which you can get from their beautiful kiosk on Kite Beach. FOR THE PERFECT PICTURE Pass by the Terrace on Friday and Saturday, you’ll have a beautiful panoramic view of the Dubai skyline. MUST BUY SOUVENIR My favourite items to take back home when I’m on vacation are always magazines and food. I would pick up a copy of Brown Book and order a box of dates. ESCAPE THE CHAOS At the top Burj Khalifa. There’s something about looking down at the sparkling city that makes me dream of beautiful ideas. WHAT TO PACK Essentials are sunscreen, a swimsuit, camera, trainers for the desert, a cardigan (it gets cold indoors with the AC) and something fancy for that one splurge-worthy dinner.
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Bana A b u jab e r N A M E:
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A MM A N, JOR DA N
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FOR BREAKFAST HEAD TO Blue Fig has been a favourite spot of mine for as long as I can remember. They have delicious manakish. I would recommend the cheese & zaatar as well as the PB&J. Books@ Café Abdoun is a cute little spot offering your typical breakfast - eggs benedict, omelettes, French toast and fresh juices. If you are looking for more of a traditional breakfast Al Usra serves the hummus and foul type of breakfast. HOTTEST TABLE IN TOWN OTR [Off The Record] is currently the hottest spot in town, which recently opened. Think New York, speakeasy, retro style bar that takes you back to the 1920s. WHERE TO SHOP During the summer, you don’t want to miss Souk Jara, a flea market offering antiques, crafts, street wear, art and food! It's every Friday from May to September. HIPPEST HOTEL La Locanda Hotel is a boutique hotel located in the heart of Jabal al Weibdeh. With only fourteen rooms, each room celebrates a different Arabic artist such as Um Kalthoum and Sayed Darwish. TOP THREE MUST-DOS WHILE IN TOWN Jasmine House Art & Food is something you shouldn’t miss. It's a gallery that promotes local culture and architecture. And the best part is that you can enjoy it over a delicious bowl of pasta. Walking through Rainbow Street and downtown is one of my favourite things to do in the city especially when I’m shooting for my blog. Pass by the soap house and get lost in Jabal Al Weibdeh’s vast alleys and stairways. If you're in the mood for some art, hop around Amman and visit some of the art galleries we have. There’s Wadi Finan, Darat Al Funun, Nabad Art Gallery and a lot more. FOR A REAL TASTE OF AMMAN Head to Beit Sitti to learn how to cook traditional Arabic dishes such as mansaf and magloobah, plus you get to sample your hard work afterwards. So much fun! END THE DAY At the café at Wild Jordan – perfect spot to catch the sunset. FOR A NIGHT OUT Try one of the Pizzeria brunches on Friday for the nice atmosphere and a good bloody mary. There’s also Canteloupe at the Boulevard, which is a great option if you’re looking for a nice dinner. And the 90s Parties at Champions is a must if you’re into old school Backstreet Boys and Britney Spears dance parties! SCENE STEALING For a good view of Amman, downtown has some pretty awesome spots. MUST BUY SOUVENIR Traditional Jordanian head scarf, which is mostly worn in the desert and is traditional for the Bedouin culture. OUTSIDE OF THE CITY Camping in Wadi Rum! It is a must-see for any visitor coming to Jordan. It has the most extraordinary desert scenery you’ll ever see! WHAT TO PACK Amman is a pretty laid back city, so you don’t have to worry about packing anything fancy. For daytime, you can throw on a pair of jeans and sneakers. Don’t forget to pack a light leather jacket; it gets a bit chilly at night.
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DOUBLe
tro uble
Although it might be like looking in a mirror with these two, there’s nothing predictable at all about these twins. The Los
Angeles-based,
Palestinian duo have worn just about every hat they could get their stylish fingers on, from style influencers and DJs to creatives and models. As they traipse around the globe with the ultimate all-girl crew (#squadgoals) in tow think hanging poolside with Rita Ora to going on Safari with Kendall and Kylie Jenner - simi
and haze Khadra are proof that two is really better
than one. After all, isn’t one the loneliest number? Images: @simihaze
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“What’s next? Big things! We have big ideas and we are working on music much more seriously.”
"We haven’t worn our hair curly for about a year now. Our look has evolved and it just happened very gradually and naturally. We have straight/wavy shoulder length hair now. It’s pretty easy to take care of!"
Simi “We don’t agree on everything but one of us always convinces the other into agreeing with their opinion. We have a natural process just being twins and complementing each other throughout our lives. I used to play the violin and Haze used to play the double bass. We would play together and harmonise and I think that’s a great metaphor for every project we do together.”
"We have phases with music because we’re always discovering new stuff. Right now we are listening to a lot of Nao, Mura Masa. The Drake and Popcaan song Controlla is currently on repeat."
“We have a secret written language that we made up in detention in 6th
grade. We can al so speak gibberish.”
"We’ve been lucky enough to do what we love and because we are visual people, we love modelling and working with other creative people we look up to. Buying has taught us a lot about fashion and has really developed our eye. Music is a huge passion of ours so DJing is just something we really love to do because we have so much fun doing it!"
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“In high school, we
would have been voted mo st likely to get
kicked out of clas s for laughing.”
"Sometimes people don’t really know what we do because we do so many different things. It’s all about building a 360-degree career with us because we are visionaries. We love music, art and fashion. Our goal is always to merge these things in a beautiful and authentic way."
HAze “Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist was one of the first photographers to take our picture. We don’t know why really. It might be strange to know. It’s just like the fact that we don’t really know why people are attracted to us on a daily basis. We are so appreciative and grateful that we can inspire people by just being us.” "It is a great thing to see the Middle Eastern fashion scene emerging very quickly. There are some amazing designers who make really highend stuff! The contemporary and streetwear world in the Middle East is still underdeveloped. More emphasis needs to be made on quality and turning aspects of Middle Eastern culture into something new and fresh. "
“O u r mo m
ain p l aye d a m ging ro l e in b rin wo rl d u s int o t he o f fa s hio n.”
"We call Los Angeles home. London is our second home. We lived in Dubai for 4 years during high school. We absolutely loved our time there, but it’s changed so drastically since then that every time we go, we feel like it’s the first time! It is an amazing place and we are inspired by all the development it’s gone through in the past few years."
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Moda Operandi has proven to be instrumental in the success of many brands from across the world. And with their sights now set on the Middle East, after a visit to Dubai’s FFWD 16, SLT sat down with M'O’s CEO Deborah Nicodeamus, to find out what they have up their very stylish sleeves.
THE
ON
HUNT THE WOMEN BEHIND M’O
ON TAKING PART IN FFWD… We are looking forward to becoming more familiar with the regional designers, the city and its extraordinary culture. We are also interested to share the Moda Operandi story during our talks and hope that it will inspire young fashion entrepreneurs in the region. ON E-COMMERCE & THE MIDDLE EAST… Over the past few years, clients have increasingly chosen the e-commerce platform for their fashion needs and truly appreciate the editorial perspective as they gain a global feel for fashion. Middle Eastern clients are renowned for being super sophisticated fashion customers as well as avid followers of trends and styles. They are keen to always be at the forefront of what’s hot and e-commerce has certainly made new collections and new designers more accessible to the region.
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ON THE REGION’S CONSUMER… Middle Eastern clients continue to favour international luxury brands yet we see a trend towards emerging designers and their unique fashion point of view. ON THE REGION’S FASHION SCENE… Dubai is making its mark on the global fashion industry and with the help of Emirati designers such as Madiyah Alsharqi are quickly becoming well-known names in the style arena. We look forward to discovering new designers and collections during our trip. ON moda operandi's MIDDLE EASTERN designers and talent… We continue to grow together with our established ME designers. Our clients appreciate the design inspiration from Elie
. sur la terre . features .
Lauren Santo Domingo Co-Founder
Deborah Nicodemus CEO
A street style favourite and muse to Proenza Schouler, the Connecticut beauty - and Vogue contributing editor - co-founded Moda Operandi in 2011.
With an extensive background in luxury brand management, Deborah oversees M'O's business strategy and overall operations.
Saab and Maison Rabih Karyouz. In the last year, we have discovered great designs from Madiyah Alsharqi, Sandra Mansour and Mira Mikati. Our clients love what these new designers have brought to the fashion space.
2009 Lauren Santo Domingo and Aslaug Magnusdottir come up with the idea for an online site that allows customers to pre-order looks directly from designers, immediately after their runway show
ON THE PRE-ORDER CONCEPT… The Middle Easter customer is sophisticated and follows fashion trends and styles. The preorder empowers her to pre-buy her favourite pieces as soon as they are presented, ensuring that she will not have to search or loose the opportunity to purchase since many of the high fashion looks are not purchased by traditional retailers or e-commerce sites.
Alexander Wang
2011 The site goes live with an Alexander Wang trunkshow for his FW11 collection
ON PLANS FOR A PRIVATE SHOPPING SALON IN THE ME… We are working to identify the perfect location for a showroom in the Middle East which would expand our existing invitation-only showrooms in London and New York. It took a while to find our New York space so we expect it will take some time to find a space in the region that meet our needs. www.modaoperandi.com
2012 Moda Operandi launches “Boutique”, which offers a curated selection of in-season designer products, available for immediate delivery 2013 Moda Operandi sponsors the 2013 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘’PUNK: Chaos to Couture,’’ at The Metropolitan Museum of Art 2014 Spread over two floors, Moda Operandi’s first private shopping salon in Europe opens its doors in West London’s Belgravia neighbourhood
Clockwise: Jacket, Elie Saab; Top, Maison Rabih Kayrouz; Sneakers, Mira Mikati; Jeans, Zuhair Murad.
“Bef or e ecommerce , t he wor ld wa s v iew ed a s con tine n t s a n d now it is a bou t commu nities. This spir it of commu nit y is k eeping w it h M'O’s business phil osoph y of being high t ouch a n d st rong on clie n t r el ationships.” . sur la terre . features .
2015 The online luxury fashion retailer introduces a new shop-in-shop section on its website teaming up with Burberry to kick off its flagship concept
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the list
9 Apr14 May
Shurooq Amin: It’s a Mad World WHERE: Kuwait City, Kuwait WHEN: 9 April – 14 May WHAT: If you follow the Middle Eastern art scene, you may be familiar with Kuwaiti artist Shurooq Amin whose controversial work led to her last Kuwaiti exhibition being shut down in a matter of hours for ‘inappropriate content’. Shurooq has since gone on to showcase her contemporary work with the support of Ayyam Gallery in worldwide art hubs including London, Venice and Dubai. This exhibition, It’s a Mad World, marks her return to Kuwait. Held at the Contemporary Art Platform and with eighteen artworks and one installation on exhibit, this promises to be the highlight of Kuwait’s artistic calendar for 2016. www.shurooqamin.com
3 - 30 may
apr
16
mid may
Abu Dhabi Festival
Dubai Desert Road Run
Rose Festival
WHERE: Abu Dhabi, UAE WHEN: 3 – 30 April WHAT: Abu Dhabi is working its socks off to become the UAE’s cultural capital. In addition to the various international art outposts rising up, its many cultural festivals are putting it at the forefront. One in particular, the annual Abu Dhabi Festival, is a month-long cultural kaleidoscope that includes recitals, concerts, exhibitions, films, courses…the list goes on. Our must-sees include the Portrait of a Nation Exhibition, which brings together 30 commissioned artworks and 30 loaned works from leading contemporary arts practitioners and the Little Prince Orchestral Concert performance featuring Hugh Grant as narrator. www.abudhabifestival.ae
WHERE: Dubai, UAE WHEN: 16 April & 4 June WHAT: Dust off those running shoes if you’re heading to Dubai this April or June, and join other members of the community and UAE athletes as they head feet first into the desert for the Dubai Desert Road Run. Do not fret, there are no sand dunes involved, just tranquil traffic-free desert roads. And while not quite as tough on the joints and heart rate as a 42km marathon, the 10km (or milder 3km) course should still put you through your paces thanks to the dusty desert heat. Even if you are not the hardy sports type, this is a great way to experience the Dubai desert-scape or enjoy an early morning run, without the looming city skyscrapers and urban fumes. www.dubairunning.com
WHERE: El-Kelaâ M’Gouna, Morocco WHEN: Mid-May (depending on harvest) WHAT: Morocco is renowned for its colour and scents, so this spring celebrate both in a fragrant journey into the Atlas Mountain’s for the country’s annual Rose Festival. Nestled among rocky mountains lies the Valleé des Roses, where every spring a lush carpet of pink Persian roses dominates the scenery. To celebrate the beauty and wealth these roses offer the locals (rosewater is big business here), the small town of El-Kelaâ M’Gouna holds a three-day festival to mark the harvest. There’s singing, dancing, feasting, markets, sword fighting, folk performances and a chariot procession with a scattering of rose petals. It is also worth a visit to the Valleé des Roses itself for a stroll in the pink pastures. www.kasbahdesroses.com
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5-8
22
Ends 23 Apr
May
Qatar Festival of Music
Spring of Culture
Impossible
WHERE: Doha, Qatar WHEN: 22 April WHAT: If you prefer your music festival to be of the refined classical genre rather than the raw contemporary variety, the Qatar Music Festival should definitely please your ear drums. The Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra (QPO) are presenting a full day of music at the Qatar National Convention Centre, kicking off at 2pm with Music by Mozart in the foyer followed by an afternoon of music including a family concert, Carnival of the Animals, the Qatar Music academy students on stage with QPO and for movie soundtrack fans, Music from Star Wars and classic films. To close the day’s entertainment, the QPO will perform an evening ensemble performance entitled ‘Carmen… Boheme… And the 1812 Overture’. www.qatarphilharmonic.org
WHERE: Bahrain WHEN: Until 23 April WHAT: You might have missed singing along to Gregory Porter and Seal who both performed earlier this year as part of Bahrain’s Spring of Culture event, but this art and culture soaked festival is just as jam packed with international and regional concerts, performances and exhibitions. In fact, April could be described as art month as there is a wide range of exhibitions across the city at art spaces including Albareh Art Gallery, La Fontaine Art Centre and Al Riwaq Art Space. At Bahrain’s National Museum, you can also enjoy a collection of historic Indian royal costumes, which are on display for the Magnificent Maharajah Splendour of Indian Royal Costumes, which runs until 15 April. www.springofculture.org
WHERE: Beirut, Lebanon WHEN: 5 – 8 May WHAT: If you think magic is just producing a bunny from a hat or sawing a pretty lady in half, think again. Magic in today’s world is far from silly trickery and if there is one show that proves this, it is ‘Impossible’, which comes to the Forum de Beyrouth direct from London’s West End. Six of the world’s leading magicians have come together to perform everything from close-up magic and grand stage illusions to technical trickery and death defying stunts. This is magic on a whole new level, reinventing some of the greatest illusions of all time - the Cirque du Soleil of magic, if you may. www.productioneight.com
apr
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FUTURSTIC FILMS LAND ON THE RUNWAY This season, intergalactic fantasies and sci-fi chic are taking over the runways thanks to a little movie magic
W Preen
Peter Pilotto
Loewe
ho would have thought that the official date Marty McFly and Doc Brown landed in the future has now actually passed? That’s right, Back to the Future hit the future last October, and thank goodness we aren’t dressed quite as predicted. Instead, there is a new breed of futuristic films influencing our wardrobe with designers including Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela and J.W. Anderson all bringing an intergalactic sci-fi spin to our spring wardrobes.
Louis Vuitton
Su bt le Sta r Wa r s u n dert ones
M a d M a x chic
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Star Wars and fashion have long enjoyed an odd but intriguing partnership but for spring, there is no need to brazen a bold "May the Force Be With You" slogan across your sweater or an R2-D2 character tee to feel the force of this epic intergalactic fantasy. This season, it's all about incorporating the futuristic silhouettes and sci-fi prints, patterns and colour palette from the film into your wardrobe. “We don’t reference a single character in particular, it’s more the general visuals and the set that fascinate us,” explains Peter Pilotto whose SS16 collection features futuristic digital prints, geometric patterns and a pared down palette. Both J.W. Anderson’s collection for Loewe and his own, embody a distinct Star Wars-inspired futuristic vibe, with space cadet style trousers, jumpsuits and accessories. Referring to the movie, the designer says, “the clothes are hyper-modern, but they have this organic oddness to them, which is why they so often inspire my collections.” It is the organic aspect of the film that also inspires Preen, “whether it’s a white minimal collection, or a natural, beige, organic, wrapping collection it all comes from the same [Star Wars] source,” explains Preen’s design duo Justin Thornton & Thea Bregazzi.
Ever fancied yourself as a video game heroine? Well, now is your chance to parade around as a bionic warrior, anarchic amazon or urban vixen. Think Mad Max dystopian design – the sort of clobber Mad Max’s spirited female counterparts would wear to fight their own battles. You only need to glance at Nicolas Ghesquiere’s SS16 collection for Louis Vuitton, and its hand-painted leather kilts and jackets, zips, bandaged hands and silk jumpsuits, to see the impact of this post-apocalyptic punk style.
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Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
La by r in t h-esque pu nk rock David Bowie has been the reference for many iconic fashion styles over the decades and in an ode to the late style star, his defining futuristic punk-rock style is back with a vengeance this season. Hints of his Goblin King character from the 1986 classic Labyrinth landed on Maison Margiela SS16 couture catwalk. Classic Bowie make-up and mullet hair, was paired with futuristic glossy leather, punky gold and metallic accents, statement necklaces and chunky knee boots.
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FILM FORWARD David Bowie lives on with Instagram
When Instagram is mentioned, many of us picture image sharing of the ‘nth degree of style, but did you know Instagram also has its own channel that creates mini series - InstaMiniSeries? Don’t miss their latest series UNBOUND, offering a unique visual interpretation of David Bowie’s enigmatic new album « (pronounced ‘Blackstar’). Watch on instagram.com/instminiseries
From rumbling 4DX motion sensor cinema seats to the must-see mini series from Instagram, a new era of film is upon us…
Films f or a ll t he se nses
Thanks to 3D and IMAX technology, today’s cinematic masterpieces really do come to life. Taking the movie going experience one step further, 4DX cinemas are fast becoming the movie world’s latest treat for the senses. With cinemas decked out with motion sensored seats, mist and scent pistons, wind machines and even drizzles of rain, watching or should we say experiencing a 4DX movie brings you right into the heart of the action. It's been seven years since the 4DX effect was launched in Korea in 2009 (there are now over 200 around the world) however 4DX only recently made its New York debut at the Regal Union Square Stadium 14 theater with its showing of Batman v Superman, and in April another will open in Times Square. London is also set to follow suit later this year. Let’s just hope the thrills of 4DX last longer than the 1960s one-hit-wonder of Smell-O-Vision where plot related scents were pumped into the cinema, for one film and one film only.
Unsee n Sta r Wa r s f oo tage
This April, Star Wars: The Force Awakens is released on Blu-ray giving fans of the cult film a chance to watch the epic saga in the comfort of their own homes, but also the opportunity to see hours of unseen footage. There are casting videos, an hour-long documentary about the film production, rehearsal footage and of course the long awaited deleted scenes.
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
Ult r a HD Blu-r ay
Since the 90s, we’ve swapped our VHS for DVD, DVD for Blu-ray and happily welcomed streaming and downloads, and now there is another at-home movie technology about to hit the market - Ultra HD Blu-ray. Without getting too techy, this basically means even better sound and even better quality pictures. And with movies including Mad Max: Fury Road, Pacific Rim, Ghostbusters, The Fifth Element, Sicario and all new big 20th Century films being released in the new format, it looks like we might need to invest in the Ultra HD Blu-ray player if we want to keep up with the times.
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Conversations with Carla Writer Declan Eytan makes the journey to Milan to find out the secret behind one of its resident's most successful ladies
She’s a mainstay
within Milan’s art and design circles, and heads a concept store empire which reaches far beyond the borders of her native Italy, with branches across Shanghai, Seoul, Tokyo and Beijing. Carla Sozzani, founder of the Milan-based Galleria Carla Sozzani art gallery and the now-infamous 10 Corso Como department store (which happens to be world’s first concept store since its 1991 inception) has managed to make quite the name for herself. Last year marked the Galleria Sozzani's 25th anniversary, and 2016 marks the same milestone for 10 Corso Como Milan. “Things have changed a lot. I remember those days of Milan in the 60s, 70s and 80s, when people would regularly visit the galleries of Gió Marconi or Lorenzelli. A friendship would ensue between buyers and gallerists, as the gallerists would suggest the work of exciting new artists all the time,” Sozzani says when we meet in her Milan office, located inside the Corso Como 10 premises. She’s dressed in typical Sozzani style, defined by a less-is-more attitude: black on black, no trace of make-up, and her wavy blonde locks tied together in a low ponytail. Nevertheless, what her personal style lacks in excess, her office more than makes up for. Her loft-like office space features a wall covered in colourful art works and polaroids, some design objects here and there, and desks covered in paperwork. Controlled chaos at its finest.
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Azzedine Alaia & Carla Sozzani - Schiaparelli show during the Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 Š Stephane Cardinale/People Avenue/Corbis
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“Nowadays people are less likely to visit galleries, and more likely to visit art fairs. Galleries have become less popular amongst collectors, which is why the gallerists participate in these art fairs,” she points out. “The market that was there in the 60s and 80s doesn’t exist anymore. Today everything is much faster, so everything is centred around fairs. The thing I don’t quite like about art fairs, is that the participating galleries rarely suggest the work of one artist in particular. Generally speaking, they’ll suggest an array of different artists, since it’s very much centred around commerce. It’s difficult to
“Things have changed a lot. I remember those days of Milan in the 60s, 70s and 80s, when people would regularly visit the galleries of Gió Marconi or Lorenzelli. A friendship would ensue between buyers and gallerists, as the gallerists would suggest the work of exciting new artists all the time.”
Clockwise from top: The Garden Cafe at 10 Corso Como Milan; The facade of what was once a former garage, now one of the most important concept stores in the world; The Roof Garden of 10 Corso Como Milan where private events are held; Galleria Carla Sozzani, Milan.
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understand the work of an artist however, based off of one or two paintings,” she says in her calm voice, almost like a loud whisper. Though she keeps a low profile, Sozzani is no stranger to occupying some of fashion week's most coveted front row seats. Not surprising, considering she started her career in publishing as an editor at Italian Vogue, and subsequently became the first editor-in-chief of Italian Elle magazine. In addition, she is close friends with designer Azzedine Alaïa, and big sister to Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani. Regarding the link between the world of art and that of fashion, she says “Fashion is a minor form of art, that’s more focused on consumerism. It’s a form of expression however, the same way an artist expresses himself in his work - like Rei Kawakubo does. In the past I’ve also done clothing exhibitions with designers including Paco Rabbane and Pierre Cardin.” Sozzani remains optimistic when it comes to the future of Italy’s art scene. “I believe that galleries will make a comeback. In a similar way I’ve seen the books at 10 Corso Como make a comeback, following a period in which there appeared to be a decline. I’d like to see more paintings and sculptures also. The thing with photography and other types of visual art, is that everybody thinks they’re able to do it. When it comes to painting and sculpting however, it’s commonly understood that only few can create these classic forms of art.”
Clockwise from top: Customers visit a gallery inside the 10 Corso Como store in Shanghai, China; The roof garden at 10 Corso Como Milan; Carla Sozzani attends Valentino show during PFW14.
Tables at 10 Corso Como Milan (left); Gufram on the Rocks at Galleria Carla Sozzani, Milan (middle); Inside 10 Corso Como Milan (right).
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Dress, Iris van Herpen (Dutch, born 1984), Autumn/Winter 2013-14 haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
HIGH-FASHION meets HIGH-TECH As the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s highly anticipated new Costume Institute exhibition Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology opens this May, the show’s curator Andrew Bolton spills the beans on what we can expect and discusses the impact technology has over fashion, revealing in fact, this is nothing new.
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Wedding Ensemble, Karl Lagerfeld (French, born Hamburg, 1938), for House of Chanel (French, founded 1913), Autumn/Winter 2005-6 haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper
W
hen one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious fashion houses marries traditional couture techniques with the most contemporary technologies, you know times are a changing, and machine-made fashion is taking couture to new technological heights. Chanel’s tweed suits featuring 3D-printed lattices from Karl Lagerfeld’s FW15 collection for the maison are the perfect example of fashion’s intrinsic relationship with technology, and many of the new SS16 collections also feature technological, digital and machine production. But if you look back to the advent of haute couture, technology has always been making its mark on our threads and the relationship between man and machine remains in constant flux.
Opening on 5th May, New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s new Costume Institute exhibition ‘Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology’, explores this intriguing relationship. SLT gets the lowdown on the upcoming exhibition from its curator, Andrew Bolton.
What inspired the title 'Manus x Machina'? “Several people have asked if it was inspired by Alex Garland’s movie Ex Machina, but it was in fact inspired by an earlier science fiction movie – Fritz Lang’s Metropolis. The entire plot unfolds as a dialectical treatise of man versus machine.” Do you think the battle between the manmade and the machine-made has always been part of the fashion world? “This oppositional relationship has played out in fashion since the birth of haute couture in the mid-nineteenth century, when designers began to construct a dichotomy between the hand and the machine as discordant instruments in the creative process. The advent of the haute couture coincided with the advent of the sewing machine, and one can’t help but wonder if the haute couture emerged as a response to fears surrounding the democratic possibilities of the sewing machine.”
Do you think fashion traditionalists fear technology and its impact on fashion? “In the history of fashion, ‘fear and clothing’ are inextricably connected when it comes to technology. There have been times when the hand has been celebrated and the machine has Ensemble, Iris van Herpen (Dutch, born 1984), Spring/Summer 2010 haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
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been denigrated, and vice versa. The fashion system itself is defined by this dichotomous relationship, as the traditional distinction between the haute couture and ready-to-wear is based on the handmade and the machine made.” How does the exhibition explore this relationship? “The exhibition questions this distinction, not least because the haute couture and ready- to-wear are increasingly embracing the practices and techniques of the other. At the same time, the exhibition questions the traditional values associated with the hand and the machine. Instead of presenting the handmade and the machine made as oppositional, the exhibition suggests a spectrum of practice, whereby the hand and the machine are equal and mutual protagonists in solving design problems, enhancing design practices, and, ultimately, advancing the future of fashion.”
Evening dress, Yves Saint Laurent (French, 1936-2008), Autumn/Winter 1969-70 haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
Dress, Iris van Herpen (Dutch, born 1984), Spring/Summer 2012 haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
"Vilmiron" Dress, Christian Dior (French, 1905-2057), Spring/Summer 1952 haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
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So what can visitors expect? “The exhibition will be structured around the trades or métiers of dressmaking as outlined in Diderot’s Encyclopedia of the Sciences, Arts and Crafts, which was published in France between 1751 and 1772. This encyclopedia placed the métiers of dressmaking on the same philosophical footing as the liberal arts and sciences. Diderot’s valorisation of these métiers was a provocative challenge to the longstanding prejudices against manual labor, prejudices that Diderot sought to counter by showing the skill, creativity and complexity involved in dressmaking. In fact, in the pages of Diderot’s encyclopedia, we can see an earlier expression of the exhibition’s subject matter - manus x machina - the hand and the machine. The space will unfold as a series of case studies in which examples of the haute couture and ready-to-wear will be examined with the intention of unraveling the realities and mythologies of the hand/machine conundrum.”
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"The fashion system it self is defined by this dichotomous
relationship, as the traditional distinction between the haute couture and ready-to-wear is based on the handmade and the machine made.”
Flying Saucer Dress, Issy Miyake (Japanese, born 1938), for Miyake Design Studio (Japanese, founded 1970), Spring/Summer 1994: Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
Above: Ensemble, Raf Simons (Beglian, born 1968) for House of Dior (Frenech founded 1947), Spring/Summer 2015 haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
A conundrum, which has in fact been around since the 1700s...… “The métiers defined by Diderot remain at the centre of the haute couture today, and they provide the organising principles of the exhibition. These principles reflect the various métiers in service to haute couture, including pleating, lacework, leatherwork, embroidery, featherwork and artificial flowers.” with 150 ensembles on display dating from the early 20th century to today, do you hope any prejudices about technology’s role in fashion will be dispelled? “All of the haute couture ensembles on display - like their ready-to-wear counterparts - have been constructed by machine. It’s only in their surface embellishments that the hand comes into play. What all these examples reveal is that the hand and the machine work in tandem in the creation of fashion, whether the haute couture or ready-to-wear. By attempting to unravel as well as reconcile the oppositional relationship between the hand and the machine, the exhibition attempts to advance a new paradigm for fashion that is more germane to our age of technology.” Dress, Christopher Kane (British, born 1982), Spring/Summer 2014; haute couture; Photo © Nicholoas Alan Cope
Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology opens at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City from 5th May – 14th August 2016. For more information and to book tickets go to www.metmuseum.org
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Counter clockwise: Bedouin Flower, 42cm x 30cm, $350; Oriental Sophia, 112cm x 89cm, $775; Queen Zebra, 112cm x 84cm, $775.
SPECIAL EFFECTS A r t m o v e s i n t o t h e digi t al e ra
A rising artist in the Jordanian art scene and Emergeast’s latest find, Zaina El Said is the new face of digital art. Through her collages and prints, she presents a unique compilation of images that are reflective of her origin’s past, present and alluding to an imaginative future. Here she shares her views on her divine works and what they represent.
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HOW THE DIGITAL ERA HAS AFFECTED HER… It has a lot of benefits on my work, namely being able to uncover my work to a larger audience. Also the facilitations and speed it lends to creating artwork, communication and vast options of innovative production.
ON THE THEMES SHE EXPLORES IN HER WORK… I love exploring historical, ancient characters and epochs in history. Moreover, I emphasise in showing the arts, architecture and patterns of bygone eras, and mix them with contemporary facets. I also focus and weave elements from nature in my themes, aspiring to convey the importance of balance between humans and nature. WHY SHE creates COLLAGES… Being able to mix and match different mediums and pasting different images together to create a unified body of work is where I find the most satisfaction. It is in the freedom of endless creations (from whatever material is available) that I love. HER FAVOURITE PIECE SO FAR… “Bowie” and a new piece I have just finished named “A Portrait”.
Clockwise: Buddha of Liberty, 75cm x 56cm, $550; Bowies World, 112cm x 84cm, $775; Milky Mountain, 112cm x 80cm, $775.
ON ART MOVING FROM GALLERIES TO THE WEB… I think it’s wonderful in terms of conveying this era’s fast pace mode. It is joining talents from different continents into one place. Moreover, it is giving new talents opportunities to be exposed internationally. For more information and to purchase Zeina Al Said's work, head on over to www.emergeast.com
EL SAID IN FIVE QUESTIONS Must-have electronic device... Mobile phone Social media - love or hate it? Love Do you ever unplug?... Sometimes Your work in 3 words...Contrast., colour, symmetry. If you weren’t doing art you would be an... Anthropologist
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EMERGEAST... Online art gallery EMERGEAST.com – created by art authorities Nikki Meftah and Dima Abdul Kader – introduces the region’s hottest up and coming artists to aspiring collectors. Head on over to www.emergeast.com to see the heap of talent under their umbrella!
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the scene AN INSIDE TOUR OF THE PARTIES, HAPPENINGS AND PULSE OF THE GULF'S BUSTLING CAPITALS. SEE WHO WAS SNAPPED OUT AND ABOUT...
A Taste Of NYC
A night under the stars is what guests were promised as the Peregrine Courtyard at the One & Only Royal Mirage transformed into an underground New York Bar, all to celebrate the new Alice & Olivia store opening and its Director and Founder Stacey Bendet.
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Meet & Greet
Etoile ‘La Boutique’ invited guests for a special event with Sachin & Babi Noir’s design maverick Sachin Ahluwalia, who offered personal styling tips during the preview of the brand’s stunning SS16 collection.
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New Address
To celebrate the opening of the first Carven store in the UAE, the brand’s creative directors Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud flew in to Dubai for a special press viewing.
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Pastel Dreams
Fresh, whimsical and innovative, art exhibition “Fashion Dream House” opened with a bang at Salam Stores in Doha, featuring colourful installations by celebrated Qatari artist Noor Abuissa.
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The Fair’s Finest
The world’s most iconic and beautiful watchmakers and jewellers upped the ante this year with a stunning three-day showcase at Doha’s prestigious DJWE16.
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Clockwise: Anas & Harith Bukhash;editor's Sanaz Askari; Tarik Zaharna; Elissa Freiha; pick Nafsika Skourti; Sara Naim & Athier Mousawi; Butheina Al Kazim
The Coat Collective Bu r ber ry’s per e n ni a l cl a ssic is back a n d w it h ne w faces
The British fashion house is back for part two of its much coveted campaign, this time tapping seven new Middle Eastern influencers for the project. Familiar faces such as Jordanian fashion designer Nafsika Skourti, Iranian gallery owner Sanaz Askari, Womena co-founder Elissa Freiha and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim and Buthaina Al Muzrai of Dinner Club No. 57 are just some of the names championing the gorgeous portraits.
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