Sur La Terre Arabia 45 - Pre-Fall 2016 by Firefly Communications

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for reservations or enquiries please call +974.4446.0105 or email diningreservations@stregis.com

CONTENTS

ISSUE 45

NEWS In Crisis - 18 With this season’s flat sandals, pink wedding dresses and a sprinkling of ready-to-wear, is couture veering off its heritage path? Sophie Jones-Cooper investigates

Couture Report- 28

Trend Report20 What you need and what you really need for the season ahead

A roundup of our favourite shows from the Fall/Winter ’16 couture collections

That’s Haute - 29 Twice yearly, the fashion crowd flocks to Paris to see Europe's top haute couture creations but for the past few seasons, many have made the journey to witness what a few Arab couturiers have devised for a very select clientele

Bricks for Clicks- 32 Middle East style purveyor Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz launches online retailer DNACHIC.com. Shopping addicts beware!

STYLE Save the Last Dance - 44 As Van Cleef & Arpels celebrates their recent partnership with Dubai Opera, SLT chats with the jewellery dynasty’s CEO and Creative Director Nicolas Bos on their latest spin on the dance floor

BEAUTY Fade to Black - 47 Lips lacquered in shades of wines and berry are giving way to their darker side. Goth goes glam with deep plum hues bordering on black

Backstage Diary - 48 Dubai-based M.A.C Cosmetics Senior Makeup Artist for the Middle East and India, Vimi Joshi, lifts the curtain on what really happens behind the scenes during Paris Couture Week

Sha Wellness Spa - 50 Where the haute set go to de-stress, decompress and recharge after the summer holidays

Some Like it Hot - 54 One writer tells us the secret to rejuvenating your skin after summer

Local Escapes - 55 Unwind at the latest luxury relaxation retreats

Freeze Time - 56 Cold therapy is nothing new, but thanks to innovative techniques, Cryotherapy is promising faster fat burning and smoother skin in just three minutes

High Heels -27 The must-have '70s style has returned, making a comeback and taking fashion to some seriously new heights

Anatomy of a dress -30 From first stitch to final fitting, Beirut-based couturier Rami Kadi shines a light on the making of a couture gown

. sur la terre . contents .

CONTENTS

ISSUE 45

PLAY Strike a Pose - 58 Dubai-based influencer Elias El-indari gives us a lesson in posing and how to take the perfect picture

Cut the Cord - 59 The latest Bluetooth earpieces for wireless listening

Plugs In - 60 Interior design aficionado Hazem K. Al Jesr shares his ehabits and digital addictions

LIFE The Journal - 69 SLT jets across the world looking for the hottest vacation spots to hit this fall

Globetrotter - 70 Dine, dream and delight your senses like a local with the latest hotel openings, restaurant launches and luxurious goings-on for the global traveller. This is a must-have list for those planning a trip soon

Around the World - 72 Aptly named the land of fire and ice, Iceland’s breathtaking terrain is a nature lover’s dream

CULTURE The List - 70 Find out what’s going in and around the Gulf, from the hottest art shows to to the coolest bands to check out

Yves in Marrakech - 70 The countdown is on for the opening of a new museum in Marrakech, dedicated to the work of legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent

FEATURES Origins - 78 New York-based heritage brand Coach celebrates 75 years

Names To Know -34 With fall on the horizon, here are the region’s homegrown brands to invest in right now

Rock Stars -40 The bling that debuts during Couture Week almost upstages the swoonworthy gowns. Here, the best of the season's high jewellery collections

Keeping it Local -74 The talented Rami Al Ali shows us how to do Beirut like a Middle Eastern couturier

BACKPAGE SLT Covets - 88 Usher in fall with a signature shearling number from Acne Studios

Emergeast Picks -86 Find out why you should be buying one of Yassine Alaoui Ismaili's pieces right now

. sur la terre . contents .

Image Credit: Reemami FW'16

ditor's letter

With the sweet smell of the sea and the last bit of colour slowly fading from our golden bronze skin – a reminder that the end of summer is imminent – it’s back to reality and the daily grind of busy lives led in the crazy concrete jungle. One might not be ready for the new season just yet but with fall’s bold knitwear and skinny-ribbed sweater dresses the transition from our uniform of breezy dresses and matching espadrilles will be an easy one. SLT’s detailed trend report (page 20) will have you discover the indispensable pieces to steer you stylishly through those crucial in-between months as the temperature yo-yos and your shopping list heats up.

regional designers right to our manicured fingertips. Forget perusing the store racks, it’s all just a click away (page 32)! For those who pride themselves on staying “in the know” there’s a new fixture on the cultural calendar for us to pine over – Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, a museum dedicated to the work of the legendary French designer, due to open in Marrakech next autumn. Get an exclusive first look at the highly anticipated fashion museum before anyone else (page 84). Finally our issue ends with another couturier, Rami Al Ali, who shares his little black book to the rowdy and intoxicating city of Beirut (page 74). Join us as we go on a whirlwind tour of the Mediterranean capital, meeting the movers and shakers making this the new city of cool.

Speaking of the new, in need of some fresh sartorial inspiration our fashion editors went on the hunt for the region’s hottest homegrown brands to invest in right now (page 34), from burgeoning Beirut to dazzling Dubai. We’ve got the names you should be committing to memory now. We promise, they won’t disappoint. Also known for a sharp eye for spotting what’s hot and upcoming is fashion’s most prominent Saudi Royal Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz. This summer she caused quite the stir with her big decision to shut her shop in Riyadh and Doha to launch Dnachic.com, an online version of her haute boutiques. A bold move, she’s foever changed the way we’ll shop for luxury fashion in the Gulf, bringing the very best of emerging international and

. sur la terre . editor's letter .

Dina Kabbani

SENIOR EDITOR

@SLTM iddleE a s t

slt arabia

ontributors

“I look forward to the Chanel show every season. As top ‘chien’ of the industry, Karl Lagerfeld not only wows with some of the world’s finest couture creations, he certainly knows how to put on a show.” - Writer Sophie Jones-Cooper shares her favourite must-see show during Haute Couture Week

“You’ll find me mostly rocking a funky graphic tee-shirt (think Zoe Karssen) and my Rag & Bone jeans or leggings with biker boots and a leather jacket. I’m often in front of my iMac so I do like to be comfortable, yet able to take it from day to night by adding statement jewellery and swapping boots for killer heels (I love shoes!).” - SLT’s design maverick Helen Louise Carter, on what she feels most comfortable in

“My favourite accessory is a timepiece. Right now strapped onto my wrist is a beautiful IWC Portugieser Automatic that plays as the finishing touch to all my outfits. No one likes a naked wrist!” - Dubai-based founder of gentlemen’s style site, SMF-blog.com, Elias El-indari on his must-have accessory of the moment

“Yassin Alaoui Ismaili is poised to make his mark as one of the Middle East’s most sought after artists. His definitive series is set to make its way to estemeed collections and exhibitions worldwide!” - Nikki Meftah & Dima Abdul Kader on who we should be collecting art from

. sur la terre . contributors .

“The element of surprise! Tucked away in some small side road in a deserted building are the most interesting spaces, ones you never would have thought you would find there.” - Designer Rami Al Ali shares his favourite things about the crazy and wonderful city of Beirut

“My grandmother’s antique cream-coloured leather clutch. It’s super soft with a delicate clasp and it is definitely showing signs of age but that’s what makes me wonder about its past - the parties my Omi attended with it, what shade of lipstick she stashed inside, what gentleman carried it for her...it’s a little bag of secrets.” - Julia Seidl, our Editor-at-Large, on her go-to piece to feel glamorous

DETAILS Director of Publications Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com General Manager Joe Marritt j.marritt@firefly-me.com Senior Editor Dina Kabbani d.kabbani@firefly-me.com Editor-At-Large Julia Seidl j.seidl@firefly-me.com

Sur la Terre International S.A.

Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper

Head office 26 avenue de la Praille 1227, Geneva, Switzerland. Tel: + 41 22 310 48 00 Fax: + 41 22 310 48 01

- Contributors Katy Morrison Charbel Najem Noha Kabbani - Art & Design Creative Director Helen Louise Carter In-House Photography Jerome Elizaga Von Wyli Peñaranda Foto Arabia Finaliser Ron Baron

n. 45 QR40

TREND REPORT

AED40 BHD4

- International Sales International Sales Director Julia Toon j.toon@firefly-me.com

Senior Sales Manager, UAE Nesreen Shalaby n.shalaby@urjuan-me.com

KEEPING IT LOCaL Regional designers to fill your closets with this fall

Oh so hauTE! Bespoke couture at its best

- Printing & Distribution Logistics Manager Joseph Isaac j.issac@firefly-me.com

OMR4

SUR LA TERRE > ISSUE 45 > PRE-FALL 2016

- Sales & Marketing Head of Sales, Lifestyle Chirine Halabi c.halabi@firefly-me.com

KWD3

how to master transeasonal dressing

ThE BIG SPa GuIDE Where the jet set go to de-stress, compress & recharge after summer

Rami al ali’s little black book to beiRut / D’Na lauNch oNliNe shoppiNg poRtal

SLT45 Cover.indd 1

9/8/16 4:34 PM

Cover image: Photographer: Francois G. Durand

- Printer Ali Bin Ali Printing Press, Doha, Qatar

- Publisher Firefly Communications PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar. Tel: +974 4434 0360 Fax: +974 4434 0359 info@firefly-me.com www.firefly-me.com

copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is prohibited. All content is believed to be factual at the time of going to print, and contributors’ views are their own derived opinions and not necessarily that of Firefly Communications or SLT. No responsibility or liability is accepted by the publishers or editorial staff for any loss to any individual or company, legally, financially or physically, as a result of any statement, fact, figure or expression of opinion or belief appearing in SLT. The publisher does not officially endorse any advertising or advertorial content for third party products. Photography and image credits, where not otherwise stated, are those of Getty/Gallo Images and/or Shutterstock or iStock Photo and/or Firefly Communications, each of which retains their individual copyrights.

. sur la terre . details .

NEWS

STYLE

BEAUTY

PLAY

LIFE

CULTURE

COLUMN

COUTURE IN CRISIS? Image courtsey of Olivier Saillant

With this season’s flat sandals, pink wedding dresses and a sprinkling of ready-to-wear, is couture veering off its heritage path? Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper

hen Karl Lagerfeld swapped heels for flats and sent models down his SS14 couture catwalk in trainers, we knew haute couture was on the move. No longer reserved for that one-of-a-kind breed of old-school gown collectors who wouldn’t be seen dead in a pair of Stan Smiths, today couture attracts a new modern fashion army and has without a doubt entered a new era. But is this influx of 21st century style causing an unnerving sense of forgotten identity for the age-old industry? This season in particular we saw mixed messages coming from Paris. There were those designers who honoured the traditions of couture with their classic fairytale gowns, while others put a more contemporary foot forward, namely Dior with their flat leather sandals and flip flops worn with said fairytale gowns and at Viktor & Rolf, black brogues were worn with black ankle socks. And with the front row akin to a marathon lineup from the knee

down, whatever direction couture is taking, it is doing so in comfort. Steering away from tradition once more, both Chanel and Elie Saab chose not classic white or ivory for their show stopping wedding gowns, but pink. Then there was the controversial inclusion of non-couture brands on the couture calendar. Ready-to-wear brand of the moment, Vetements showcased their SS17 collection and Miu Miu showed their inter-season collection at this season’s Haute Couture Week. This was much to the dismay of many couture maisons and in particular, industry legend Karl Lagerfeld. If anyone knows couture and has the prowess to lead the couture army and its direction, it is Karl Lagerfeld. I look forward to the Chanel show every season. As top ‘chien’ of the industry, Karl Lagerfeld not only wows with some of the world’s finest couture creations, he certainly knows how to put on a show. His front row is star studded for a reason. For FW16, he didn’t take a trip to a casino or a garden, but a step back to the core of couture, saluting its magic makers and the

. sur la terre .news .

intricacy, intimacy and the importance of hand craftsmanship within couture. His set (pictured above), a replica of the Rue Cambon attic space and Chanel atelier was complete with working seamstresses, who, during the show were busy sewing, measuring, cutting and stitching as if no one was watching. Lagerfeld’s show was a tribute to this army behind his creations, ‘les petites mains’ as they are known. Yet while paying homage to these women (and a few men), and saluting their expertise and their importance to the house and its couture creations, it was also a nod to today’s reality obsessed society. Traditionalists may feel the magic and mystery that surrounds couture is taken away when you reveal what happens behind the scenes, but somehow Karl Lagerfeld managed to retain the magic, and by allowing us to take a peep, he took us back to the essence of what couture is historically all about. And the clothes themselves, well, he hit the jackpot once again with the perfect balance of the classic and the contemporary. If haute couture en masse does need directions along its new path, my suggestion is follow Lagerfeld and enjoy the journey.

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When you're far, Alef brings you near Alef is the cultural journal of the Arabian Gulf Stories about life in the Gulf, six times a year in Arabic and English

@alefmagazine

6 1 0 2 l l a F e r P Trend Report:

Victoria Victoria Beckham

. sur la terre . news .

. sur la terre . news . Ellery

PLAY LIFE

Bottega Veneta

Gucci

Fendi

Versace

BEAUTY

FUNKY FUR For wintery weekends abroad

Alexander Wang

Rochas

Giambattista Valli

ANIMAL PRINT Day and night

STYLE

Carven

Gucci

Coach

Tommy Hilfiger

M Missoni

LETTERMAN School is in session

Burberry Prorsum

Joseph

Veronique Branquinho

SHEARLING Soft, chic and oh so cuddly

NEWS CULTURE

O V E R C O AT S F O R T H E O V E R D R E S S E D

Throw one on and go. Heads will turn (for all the right reasons)

PLAY

. sur la terre . news .

LIFE

Max Mara

Zac Zac Posen

BEAUTY

Joseph

Gucci

Temperley London

Christopher Kane

Max Mara

STYLE

Iris & Ink

Joseph

Sally Lapointe

No. 21

3.1 Phillip Lim

Sportmax

Calvin Klein

Ralph Lauren

ROOM TO GROW Cropped or full length, wide leg is best. Say sayonara to those skinnies

NEWS CULTURE

P R E C I O U S P L E AT S

The skirt of the moment takes tame accordion folds and mashes them up with precious metal shades to put a swish in your step

CHEERS FOR TIERS

Multi-layers are a multi-must, as seen at Lanvin (below), Gucci and Giorgio Armani, among many

. sur la terre . news .

LIFE

SHOULDER CUT-OUTS

DISCO DETAILS

Michael Kors

ORANGE & WINE

Michael Kors

PLAY

Versace

Carven

SHEER SLEEVES

Opening Ceremony

Versace

Alexander Wang

BEAUTY

Sonia Rykiel

Rachel Zoe

Joseph

Carven

Sportmax

Max Mara

Valentino

Givenchy

STYLE

Giorgio Armani

MM6 Maison Margiela

FLORALS

Tory Burch

Giambattista Valli

Gucci

SLIP DRESSES l

Lanvin

Jason Wu

SORBET SHADES Pastel hues and candy coloured coats are lightening up the season Jason Wu

NEWS CULTURE

R U N WAY A R I T H M E T I C

='90s

='70s

Burberry Prorsum

. ric b fa

matchy keeps

get ti n gb

et te

fun in ever ybod y’s fav ou r

on denim, f o r i nsp enim ir of d

ati o n .I t

Alexis Mabille

e ac pl th

t ’s

he es t m i t

CANADIAN TUXEDO

Rag & Bone

d north to Ca heade n a d ers a, t ign h e es bi r

Valentino

tchy Ma

D r.

ite

6397

Brooks Brothers

See by Chloé

Carven

. sur la terre . news .

Roland Mouret

Givenchy

Alexander McQueen

Giambattista Valli

Givenchy

SUITS WITH SASS Push your black blazers to the side and make room in your closet for the printed power suit. It won’t help your 9 to 5 hours fly by but it will make getting dressed a whole lot more interesting

NEWS

STYLE

BEAUTY

PLAY

LIFE

CULTURE

LIST

WANT

New Heights THE MUSTHAVE '70S STYLE has returned, taking fashion to some seriously new heights. Forget adding a little extra lift. We’re talking Ziggy Stardust-approved platforms meet Spice Girls’ vertigo-inducing boots. A word of advice: practice at home before taking them out on to the street; these clodhoppers need a test drive if you want to avoid taking a tumble!

Marc Jacobs

EDITOR’S PICK

. sur la terre . news .

COUTURE REPORT

A ROUNDUP OF OUR FAVOURITE SHOWS FROM THE FALL/WINTER ’16 COUTURE COLLECTIONS

FENDI

CHANEL

Leave it up to the King of Couture to turn Rome’s Fontana de Trevi into an enchanting backdrop for Fendi’s Legends and Fairytales “haute fourrure” show. With Kendall Jenner as their leader, a bevy of fur and leather clad models walked - better yet glided - atop a Perspex runway suspended on the city’s most famous fountain. What a magical sight it was!

Chanel Haute Couture FW16

Valentino Haute Couture FW16

Celebrating the unsung heroes that work behind the scenes at high-fashion ateliers, Karl Lagerfeld paid tribute to the house’s “petit mains” with a collection that put Chanel’s seamstresses centre stage at Paris’ Grand Palais in an homage to couture’s true savoir faire.

VA L E N T I N O

Elie Saab Haute Couture FW16

Fendi Haute Couture FW16

With everyone wondering what Valentino will look like without the teamwork of former co-creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri and her longstanding partner, Pierpaolo Piccioli (who takes over the house now), the pair offered one last hit with sumptuous brocades, taffeta cloaks and austere organza gowns that make even Romeo & Juliet’s goodbye seem trivial compared to the dashing duo parting of ways.

AT E L I E R V E R S A C E No one does sexy the way Donatella Versace does, but for FW16, the Italian design queen took a break from the racy for a walk on the more demure side. Elegant draping replaced swathes of nude skin, while the usual shimmer and sparkle were turned down in favour of colourful contrasts that really celebrated the female form.

VETEMENTS Demna Gvasalia twisted the conventions of everything related to the world of haute couture for his first ever show. From collaborating with a whooping 18 other brands to showing amidst a department store, this was definitely a first for high fashion!

Vetements Haute Couture FW16

With New York on his mind, the Lebanese couturier conjured up an Art Deco-inspired collection that bid homage to the Big Apple, its architecture and resident birds as well. Besides the NYC jazz age theme and feathered friend motif, Saab introduced for the first time Mummy and Me gowns – a line of pint-sized frocks for little girls that are just as beautiful and detailed as those he designs for his adult clients.

. sur la terre . news .

Atelier Versace FW16

ELIE SAAB

TONY WARD

ZUHAIR MURAD

GEORGES HOBEIKA

RAMI AL ALI

GEORGES CHAKRA

H A S ’ UT T A H OF

E! IO NA

OUTURIERS L C . sur la terre . news .

THE RI SE

Twice yearly, the fashion crowd flocks to Paris to see Europe’s finest haute couture creations but for the past few seasons, many have made the journey to witness what a few Arab courturiers have devised for a very select clientele. This season was no exception. Whether it was Zuhair Murad’s take on luxe bohemia with his suede thighhigh boots under tasseled goddess gowns or the ethereal water nymphs that took to Georges Hobeika’s show in a kaleidoscope of pastel numbers, it was full-blown glamour from the Arab gents with each collection sparkling more than the other.

NEWS

STYLE

BEAUTY

PLAY

LIFE

CULTURE

ANATOMY O F A DRE SS From first stitch to final fitting, Beirut-based couturier RAMI KADI shines a light on the making of a couture gown

. sur la terre . news .

The allure of couture lies in the painstakingly handcrafted elements, visionary designs, exotic materials and imaginative embroidery that, when mixed together, produce nothing short of magic. Despite what you’ve heard, magicians do sometimes share their secrets and Lebanese-American designer Rami Kadi is revealing what goes into the makings of a couture collection, particularly one extraordinary ensemble that made its debut at the storied Plaza Athénée in Paris during the designer’s Fall/Winter 2016 couture presentation this past July. Read on as we discover the labour of love behind Dress #8. Words: Julia Seidl

200 Hours

150

Flowers

Fittings

Weeks

365 Days

OF WORK WENT INTO THE GOWN AND CORRESPONDING COAT “The idea of this outfit is part of the theme of the collection - women empowerment, dare to think outside the box,” says the 29-year old couturier of the two-piece ensemble. Silicone formed the basis of the gown. A process called hyper-tubing was employed which consists of molding silicone into a specific pattern. Strips of black leather were treated in order to exhibit a glossy sheen and, using a technique often used on handbags, were braided in order to retain strength. While much of the craftsmanship remains in house at Rami’s Beirut atelier, the production of complicated pieces are sourced from suppliers all over Europe including Italy, Paris and Switzerland.

www.rami-kadi.com

WERE EMBROIDERED OUT OF 50 DIFFERENT MATERIALS Known for his incredible use of embroidery, Rami didn’t disappoint his loyal fans, including the 90 guests that were in attendance in Paris, with the floral embellishments that enveloped the 160cm long coat. “They are all hand embroidered directly on the fabric of the coat from crystals to cut out fabrics, leathers and fishnet,” says Rami, who credits the hands of his entire atelier with their application on the dress. As for the number of beads that dotted both the dress and coat? “Uncountable!” laughs the designer.

WITH THE FIT MODEL Multiple fittings were needed to get the pieces just right before show time and even then, it was Rami’s gut that told him when the ensemble was ready to reveal to the world. “I know it was ready after verifying a hundred times every detail in the finishing,” says the designer. “And when I was satisfied enough to shoot it and see the results in a photograph.”

ARE NEEDED FOR PRODUCTION After the show, an order was placed for the ensemble but this being couture (where “custom” is the magic word), this client had a special request – to replace the dress with a jumpsuit. A production time of two months is needed to complete the order. “First step is to have the measurements of the client taken, then we proceed with the fittings,” says Rami, which in this case amounted to two.

FROM CONCEPTION TO CREATION Rami began thinking of ideas for his Fall/Winter 2016 collection a year before its presentation. “I find inspiration anywhere I go, in nature, in a museum, from a friend’s perspective and I give myself a year interval from moodboard to production,” says the couturier. “Nothing comes out of imagination. Everything is the fruit of hard work on paper, research, alteration and repetition until it seems to fit the mood we set for the collection.”

. sur la terre . news .

DNA Exclusive Nico Panda

. sur la terre . news . DNA Exclusive Paul Andrew

DNA Exclusive Prabal Gurung

NEWS

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BRICKS FOR CLICKS

MIDDLE EAST STYLE PURVEYOR DEENA ALJUHANI ABDULAZIZ LAUNCHES DNACHIC.COM – ONLINE SHOPPING ADDICTS BEWARE.

DNA Exclusive Rauwolf

Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper

iyadh and Doha are not usually top contenders when it comes to cutting edge luxury shopping destinations, particularly amongst the international style set who spend most of their days perusing the likes of Paris, New York and London in search of style perfection. But since 2006, style savvy residents of both cities have been lucky enough to have super chic fashion and accessories boutique D’NA on their doorsteps. And although far from the fashion filled European avenues and aisles, D’NA has certainly made a name for itself on the global style radar thanks to its unique curated approach to fashion and the limited edition and custom-made designer pieces it offers its clientele. Founded by style purveyor extraordinaire, Saudi Princess Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, this haute haven of unique international and regional fashion and accessories became the first Middle Eastern store to feature on Farfetch.com. Its creator was also named one of Business of Fashion’s top 500 individuals shaping the fashion industry. Deena’s unique and impeccable one-of-a-kind curator-esque eye for style, brings together an art gallery-worthy collection of fashion. If you want a limited edition Mary Katrantzou dress, Marni abaya or a one-of-a-kind pair of Gianvito Rossi heels, this is the boutique for you.

DNA Exclusive Mary Katrantzou

But now as D’NA celebrates its 10th anniversary, you can forget window shopping and perusing the rails, as Deena has shut up shop (in the bricks and mortar sense), and re-launched as DNACHIC.com, an online version of her boutique. Move over Net-a-Porter and MyTheresa.com, there’s a new kid on the block. As you would expect from such a style setter, there is far more to this ‘screen shopping’ experience than just cut out clothes and pages of run of the mill-modeled separates. Not only are many of the clothes unique and custom designed for the site, they are also modeled and shot like a fashion shoot for the ultimate wardrobe inspiration, with outfits beautifully put together courtesy of Deena’s renowned expertise. You can browse and shop by ‘moment’, ‘colour’ or ‘weather’, ideal for that last minute dinner date dilemma or for a clued up city break capsule wardrobe. If that isn’t inspiration enough, then click on The Chic section of the site, which features editorials on emerging talent, global inspirations and some of the world’s most cosmopolitan women. For vintage purveyors, The Vault is the site’s vintage shopping area where you can buy never-before-worn custom evening gowns made exclusively for D’NA from designers including Rodarte, Sophie Theallet and Prabal Gurung. www.dnachic.com

SLT WISH LIST...

OUR DESIGNER CRUSHES...

Gianvito Rossi’s exclusive animal print heels. Just the ticket for putting the wild into our walk this season. l The stunning floral print dresses designed by Sophie Theallet exclusively for DNA. l We’ve already placed our order for one of Alexander Lewis’ cult worthy DNA-exclusive slogan sweaters. l A Natalie Trad clutch please.

Prabal Gurung – the epitome of modern luxury Reemami – eclectic, quirky and modern Adam Selman – out of the box cool Tome – cutting edge defining silhouettes Vika Gazinskaya – architectural shapes meet whimsy

. sur la terre . news .

NAMES TO KNOW HERE ARE THE REGION’S HOMEGROWN BRANDS TO INVEST IN RIGHT NOW…

. sur la terre . style .

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PLAY

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BUY NOW Her signature mix & match earrings!

D o nna H o u r a ni If the name Donna Hourani isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t part of your vocabulary yet then jot it down now. With a degree in interior architecture and a certificate from the Gemology Institute of America, the Lebanese mother of two is creating beautifully modern pieces that reflect her thrill for storytelling and minimal design, which results in a juxtaposition of simplicity, innately chic forms and edgy design. Soon everyone will be rocking the single earring look thanks to her signature 18k gold, gemstone encrusted earpiece, so become an early adopter and say you got it first! www.donnahourani.com

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HOW TO WEAR Team this flowing, floorskimming Endemage orange number with Chloé’s Faye shoulder bag and Saint Laurent crystal clip earrings

End e mag e They say good things always come in two and they couldn’t be more right! Brimming with major attitude are the dashing Omani duo Lubna and Nadia Al Zakwani (@endemage) the brains and brawn behind Enedemage, a modern day line producing a pretty mix of casual separates (we are obsessed with their sheer cropped tops!) and floor skimming gowns. Prepare to see Arabia’s style set decked out in their joyous, colourfueled velvets and organzas, beautifully embroidered with delicate pearls and sparkly crystals. Dreamy! www.endemage.com

BUY NOW The embroidered trumpet palazzo pants

Ree mami

When designer Reema Al Banna first started training, it was as a graphic designer rather than a fashion one. But thankfully for us, she changed career paths. Her playful concepts and hand-drawn illustrations are just begging to be worn out and about. Think eclectic, bold and loud, this is a brand for the young at heart and those who don’t feel like growing up just yet! www.reemami.com

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Racil

Born in Lebanon, raised in Paris and currently based in London, designer Racil Chaloub’s sartorial re-workings of the classic tux has us wanting to step out in one of her Saville Row-sourced line of smoking jackets on a nightly basis. Think of the classic but amped up with a bit more flair – bold luminous shades, hypnotically graphic prints and super seductive cuts. This is borrowing from the gents but with a flamboyant sensuality the guys definitely cant handle! www.racil.com

BUY NOW The midnight blue lined jacket

Ho u s e O f No mad

BUY NOW Their must-have super luxe jumpsuits

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When it comes to a fashion forward edge the boys of House of Nomad know a thing or two about making a statement. After all, its difficult not to standout if you are wearing one of their pieces – think sleek minimalistic silhouettes paired with brilliantly modern cuts and clean lines. Basically, the epitome of sporty sophistication. www.houseofnomad.ae

M ad i yah Al Sharqi

BUY NOW One of her forest green numbers

Growing up as the daughter of the Ruler of Fujairah, surrounded by private tailors and lavish gowns, you learn a thing or two about elegance. And now the young royal, Sheikha Madiyah Al Sharqi, is making her mark on the world of high fashion after graduating from Esmod with a label that has been dubbed as one of the most promising emerging brands to come out of the GCC. Invest in her intricately embroidered pastel pieces brimming with her sophisticated needlework and sparkle to your heart’s content. www.madiyahalsharqi.com

BUY NOW The Dudley clutch in black & white checkerboard

L’ a f s h a r Founded in 2014 and based in Dubai, Lilian Afshar’s quirky little label has been making waves thanks to her bug-adorned clutches that have already buzzed their way into the arms of the biggest street style stars across the fashion world. From coloured Perspex to white marble, the sleek geometric pieces are fast becoming a signature on many a wishlist. Try snapping one up before they sell out! www.lafshar.com

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BUY NOW The grey tweed bomber jacket

Ka g e If you don’t already have a Kage piece in your wardrobe, invest in the label now and we promise you won’t regret it. With androgynous streamlined silhouettes as her trademark, designer Basma Abu Ghanzaleh’s approach to simple dressing is anything but basic. Everything from her soft cotton shirts to statement tees and timeless bomber jackets is the embodiment of quiet luxury. You wont want to wear anything else! www.bykage.com

BUY NOW A printed flowy maxi dress

D i na Kh a l i fe Playful, colourful textiles with an offbeat quirky attitude – that’s what makes up the Madrid-based label. Founded in 2011 by Lebanese accessories designer Dina Khalife, the brand’s printed sundresses made from happy, bright colours have managed to garner quite the following, with Middle Eastern cult boutique D’NA picking Dina to design an exclusive capsule collection. www.dinakhalife.com

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ROCK STARS

The twinkling gems that illuminate the salons of paris during couture week almost upstage the swoonworthy gowns. Here, the best of the season's high jewellery collections. Bet you can't pick just one.

CHANEL

Yellow sapphires, diamonds, Peridots and crystalline are pieced together to evoke the wheat harvest of Gabrielle Chanel’s childhood, forming a 62-piece collection entitled, Les Blès de Chanel.

"Brins de Printemps" earrings

"Impression de Blé" earrings "Épi Solaire" bracelet

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"Premiers Brins" bracelet

"Moisson d'Or" brooch

CHAUMET

Mother Nature knows best and the fruits of her labour - from the mighty oak leaves represented by pink spinels and scintillating diamonds to the vibrant petals of a fiery lily as embodied by mint-green tourmalines and Rhodolite garnets – were anything but garden variety. "Firmament Apollonian" earrings

"Racines Célestes" ring

"Métamorphoses de Daphné" earrings

"Offrandes d'Été" earrings

"Firmament Apollonian" ring

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DIOR

Versailles. Could there be a more glamourous place on earth? The chateau by night â&#x20AC;&#x201C; more importantly the contents of its gilded walls - served as inspiration, from the woodwork in the Hall of Mirrors to a chandelierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crystal tassel.

"Appartements de Mesdames AlcĂ´ve" ring

"Appartements de Mesdames Marqueterie" ring

"Salon de Mars" earrings

"Guirlande" earrings "Salon de L'Abondance" ring

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MESSIKA

Look up at the stars tonight and you might catch a glimpse of the constellations that served as inspiration for Valerie Messika’s celestial-inclined collection. Greek gods and goddesses immortalised in diamond sparkle almost as bright as their twilight partners, with the addition of our favourite seasonal stand-outs.

"Thea" earrings

"Cassiopee" ring

"Persée" earrings "Persée" necklace

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"Private Colllection" ring

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SAVE THE LAST DANCE

As VAN CLEEF & ARPELS celebrates their recent partnership with Dubai Opera, SLT chats with the jewellery dynasty’s CEO and Creative Director NICOLAS BOS on their latest spin on the dance floor, including their final curtain call with L.A. Dance Project. Words: Julia Seidl On a summer evening in late June, London’s well-heeled turned up at Sadler Well’s for a performance that celebrated the marriage of two worlds, that of contemporary dance with the classical stylings of high jewellery house, Van Cleef & Arpels. The union was led by Benjamin Millepied, renowned dancer, choreographer (and husband to actress Natalie Portman) and his company, L.A. Dance Project and marked the third-installment of Gems, a trilogy of works by Mr. Millepied commissioned by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Clockwise from top: George Balanchine and dancer Suzanne Farrell wearing Van Cleef & Arpels for Balanchine's ballet Jewels in Paris, 1976; Benjamin Millepied rehearsing; Van Cleef & Arpels Danseuse clip from 1943

That evening’s performance, entitled “On the Other Side,” was a milestone in the maison’s love affair with dance, one that began decades earlier with a chance encounter between Claude Arpels and George Balanchine, the choreographer and co-founder of the New York City Ballet. The window displays at the jeweller’s 5th Avenue boutique had captivated Mr. Balanchine, who found himself invited inside to meet Claude Arpels, a passionate lover of ballet and the nephew of Louis Arpels. “That meeting was about to seal the link between the maison and the world of dance,” says CEO and Creative Director of Van Cleef & Arpels, Nicolas Bos. Their mutual love of ballet and baubles blossomed into Balanchine’s ballet, Jewels. First performed in New York in 1967, Mr. Balanchine divided his ballet into three sections, each inspired by and named after precious gems: “Emeralds” recalled the elegance, comfort and dress

www.vancleefarpels.com

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Photo by Patrick Swirc

of 19th century France; “Rubies” is crisp and witty; and “Diamonds” celebrates the grandeur of Imperial Russia, where Mr. Balanchine was trained. “Of course, I have always liked jewels; after all, I am an Oriental, from Georgia in the Caucasus,” the legendary choreographer once said of his masterpiece. “I like the colour of gems, the beauty of stones.” Nearly half a century later, Mr. Balanchine’s chefd’oeuvre still resonates amongst dance fans the world over. “On a fortuitous meeting one evening, Benjamin and I were chatting about dance and realised we had in common a passion for Balanchine,” says Mr. Bos. “We wanted to give another interpretation of his ballet, Jewels.” And so, Gems was born. Debuting in 2013, the first chapter entitled “Reflections” debuted at Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris followed by part two, “Hearts & Arrows,” a year later at the Olympia Theater in Miami. This summer’s chapter marked the finale to the collaboration but one that poignantly celebrated the union. “I really enjoyed this last chapter,” says Mr. Bos. “It was colourful, dynamic, emotional and even kind of romantic. It was almost like Van Cleef & Arpels’ creation process: we reinterpret our patrimony with a contemporary eye and design to give birth to new lines and collections. Millepied reinterpreted Balanchine’s ballet with his own style and sensitivity.” Even before Jewels, the fine, graceful figures of dancers inspired the jewellery maison. The 1940s saw the introduction of their celebrated Ballerina clips which reproduced the posture of dancers in gold and precious stones, a tradition that continues in the present, when each season they create a new interpretation that have become highly sought after collector’s items. “Today, the Pas de Trois clip, made of spinels and white mother-of-pearl and the Pas de Deux Nacre clip, made of yellow sapphires, white and golden mother-ofpearl, show the continuity of this inspiration,” says Mr. Bos. The high jewellery house is expanding its relationship with dance right here in the Gulf thanks to a recent partnership with Dubai Opera. The venture will exclusively support ballet and dance arts, starting with the venue’s first two classical ballets, Coppélia on the 15th and 17th of September and Giselle on the 16th September, both performed by The Russian State Ballet and Orchestra of Siberia. It’s sure to be an evening worthy of an encore.

Ali Bin Ali is the exclusive agent for Van Cleef & Arpels in Qatar

Clockwise from top left: Van Cleef & Arpels CEO Nicolas Bos; Scene from the third installment of Gems; Van Cleef & Arpels Pas de Trois clip, 2016; Scene from the third installment of Gems; Sketches of the Danseuse clips from Van Cleef & Arpels archives

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FADE TO BLACK

LIPS LACQUERED IN SHADES OF WINE AND BERRY ARE GIVING WAY TO THEIR DARKER SIDE. GOTH GOES GLAM WITH DEEP PLUM HUES BORDERING ON BLACK.

Bobbi Brown Nourishing Lip Colour in Black Plum

Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in Rouge Audace

Dior Rouge Dior in Poison Matte

Bite Beauty Amuse Bouche in Whiskey

Kat Von D Studded Kiss Lipstick in Homegirl at Sephora

Sephora Rouge Cream Lipstick in Bewitch Me

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t was all abou "'Rami Al Ali a h it w en ant wom clas sic el eg e.” ey y ok on of the sm moderni sati

M.A.C. Eye Shadow in Prussian

RAMI AL ALI “Rami’s stylist Benjamine had a very strong clear vision of what the makeup should look like, it had to incorporate the grey blue undertone of Rami’s colour palette.”

B ac k st age (l e ft ) w it h R am i A l A M .A .C Pu b li (ce ntre) lic Re lati o an d n s Aya E la m in e (r ig h t)

BACKSTAGE DIARY

“ The b e feel yo s t thing abo u u where are par t of t being bac k s t a ge a n e xc m os t o lu is and w e’re t a f the de sig n sive, lu xurio that you k e B ac k s t age w ing our loc a rs are M idd u s club le lr ith Dia la M ak elationship E a s ter n global. ki. ”-

DUBAI-BASED M.A.C COSMETICS SENIOR MAKEUP ARTIST FOR THE MIDDLE EAST AND INDIA, VIMI JOSHI, LIFTS THE CURTAIN ON WHAT REALLY HAPPENS BEHIND THE SCENES DURING PARIS COUTURE WEEK AS SHE KEYS THE BEAUTY LOOKS FOR SOME OF THE REGIONS’ BIGGEST TALENTS INCLUDING RAMI ALI ALI, TONY WARD AND MICHAEL CINCO, PLUS HER TIME BACKSTAGE AT ELIE SAAB.

TONY WARD

“Flat comfortable shoes are the key to surviving!”

M.A.C Fluidline Gel Liner in Black Track

was ard ny W o T nd e at ed a stag ani s k g c r a o , “B cal m th .” v e ry s mo o

Vimi creating the beauty look at Tony Ward

ick on the eyeliner fl “Create the t then draw th eyes firs side s of bo ect.” iner to co nn in yo ur eyel

“I went to Tony Ward’s atelier in Paris and he showed me the entire collection and the inspiration was birds that fly. That’s why we did the winged eyeliner.”

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MICHAEL CINCO

“My favourite place to grab a pre-show meal is the St. Germain Café which is one minute away from our hotel.”

“The inspiration for Michael Cinco was gorgeous girls

from the 1990’s supermodel

era - brown mascara, brown glossy eyes with soft

contour and nude lips.” “Line the upper and lower lash line with M.A.C Eye Kohl in Teddy, smudge using M.A.C 219 brush for instant smoky eyes in seconds.”

“We’v e b e e n s ta ying at St. Ger the K & main fo K in r year s, ho me a it’s like way fr o m ho m e.”

ELIE SAAB

“The inspiration at Elie Saab was 1920’s New York, with a deep blood matte red lip.”

“Elie Saab had a section of his show where little girls came out with models and it was just so cute!” M.A.C Retro Matte Liquid Lip Colour in Dance with Me “It’s an honour to be at Elie Saab! Backstage was madness with a

touch of magic. The highlight for me was doing the makeup for the finale

bridal model, to see her come out – it took my breath away.”

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The Qu e s t t o Fi nd Bal anc e Where the haute set go to de-stress, compress and recharge when enough is enough

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Yoga to de-stress instead of an evening marathon of Netflix and sweat pants; miso soup with a side of seaweed for lunch instead of office birthday cake remains from last Sunday; genetic testing instead of franticallu googling “why is my pinkie turning a weird shade of blue.” That’s exactly what has everyone saying sayonara to their busy lives – from stressed out bankers wanting to decompress and fizzled out housewives looking to reverse the signs of time to celebrities and spa junkies Kylie Minogue and Naomi Campbell (even world leader Vladimir Putin has been known to check in) – all in the name of clean living, pound-shedding and bucket loads of relaxation offered by Spain’s Sha Wellness Clinic.

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A m o s t s t yl i s h s p a ...

This is not your run-of-the-mill wellness centre, no. Setting foot into Sha is more like booking a stay at one of Ibiza’s most happening boutique hotels. The sleek interiors, modern space-age design and loungeworthy infinite pool beg for young-thirty something’s to be partying the night away welcoming in the morning sun on no sleep rather than waking up at the crack of dawn to get their Om on with a less exciting schedule of colonics, cupping sessions and a diet of 500 calories to carry them through the next 24hours.

The l o wd o wn... But what has made Sha the go-to name whispered amongst the jet set elite who make the journey to the beautiful town of Alicante – where the spa is located amongst the rugged mountains of Altea – is its principle towards macrobiotic living. It is here where the clinic assumes a leadership role amongst its peers, all thanks to its founder and creator Alfredo Bataller Parietti who chose to share this new way of living after it helped him overcome health issues that had been ailing him for years. The backbone of Sha, macrobiotics preaches the philosophy of finding balance in life, forgoing diary and meat for a diet of whole grains, vegetables, soya protein and seaweeds. Merging western science with ancient Oriental therapies, Sha has managed to bring together the very best of cutting edge medicine with the Japanese/ Mediterranean fusion diet that promises a healthier, more holistic long-term existence. G o t he r e fo r ... At Sha you can try almost everything. Discover what the future might hold with genetic testing – at more than $3,000 and a month’s long wait for results, this is not one for the overly impatient! Having trouble sleeping? Insomniacs can tackle slumber issues with a specialised sleep-recovery programme where the only problem you’ll face later on is getting yourself to turn off that snooze button. There’s also the new Cognitive Development Unit run by Professor Bruno Ribeiro where the most up-todate corroborated scientific knowledge and latest technology are used to evaluate an individual’s mental status. A stellar team of world-class therapists is also on hand to ensure that body, mind and spirit are in sync with therapies such as acupuncture, shiatsu, moxibustion, reiki and more.

The spa's wet zone offers therapeutic pools, such as a physio-hydromassage, tone-up pool, , tepidarium, sauna, calidarium, sensation shower and more

Sha's founder Alfredo Bataller Parietti and his family

Pr e t t y yo u ng t hi ng...

For beauty seekers Sha will tackle it all – from cellulite and varicose veins to sagging necks and aging hands, you’ll shed your old skin for new and drop those unwanted pounds just in time for fall’s slim sexy flares. Days are spent differently at the clinic according to each person and their needs. Once checked in a consultation with your designated doctor is followed by several meetings with a nutritionist, schedule coordinator and personal trainer – all to ensure a bespoke tailored made journey that makes up the ethos of Sha. They’ll tell you which journey to follow and how to get the best results from your stay at the clinic.

Do n’t l e av e wit ho u t ... A far cry from the strict and controlled routines sparred on by it neighbouring European medi centres, this is a place where guests can escape the medicinal and remedial humdrum of their stay and enjoy some activities that don’t involve any of the above. Miss the kitchen? Roll up your sleeves for a macrobiotic cookery class, or give your tired locks some TLC with an organic hair treatment at the salon followed by a relaxing cup of tea with a hit of O from the oxygen bar. Don’t forget to sign up for the lighthouse walk, a must if you enjoy hiking and killer views. www.shawellnessclinic.com

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Sha offers a range o programs that blend Eastern and Western therapies and philosophies.

The backbone of Sha, macrobiotics preaches the philosophy of finding balance in life

The spa's suites feature minimal contemporary interiors with killer views on the rugged mountains of Altea

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SOME LIKE IT HOT ONE WRITER TELLS US THE SECRET TO REJUVENATING YOUR SKIN AFTER SUMMER Words: Noha Kabbani

THE RED CITY Marrakesh is difficult to describe to someone who has never visited. The historic city runs on its own unique energy that comes from a mixture of vibrant colours, a fusion of conflicting sounds and an air of mysticism attached to its people who still seem to live in a bygone era. For years, wanderlust travellers have been intoxicated with its beauty, a raw chaotic nature known to be hypnotising. But it’s the strong sense of grandeur, one best reflected in the magnificent hotels and Riad’s throughout Marrakesh, that is the city’s undisputed jewel – none more so than the Royal Mansour.

SPA TIME After a very long summer in the sun my body was practically tingling with excitement at the prospect of much needed TLC. And walking through the lush green gates of the Spa I could feel my senses instantly engaged, my worries, stresses and life checked at the door. A grand tour of the main lobby and heart of the spa (mint tea in hand of course) can only be described as what I would image the lounge of heaven to look like – four seating areas beautifully housed within crisp white wrought iron cage-like structures each boasting traditional designs delicately etched onto them.

WHAT WE TRIED Being in Morocco I opted for the Royal Mansour’s - as well as the country’s signature treatment - the “Moroccan Hammam” (after all, when in Rome…). The spa’s high-end version of the traditional bathing ritual promised the whole works: fragranced steam, warm water, marocMaroc hammam products and a cold plunge pool to revitalise the body and soul – exactly what my tired summer skin needed! For those who might not be tempted to try the world-famous rubdown, the spa also features 13 treatment rooms, three of which are private spa suites, with treatments ranging from ancient, holistic rituals using all-natural local products through to the latest in antiageing facials, manicures, pedicures and a hair salon offering a full range of treatments.

GETTING PAMPERED Just as one would expect, the hammam itself is grand with white marble floor, walls and a large white basin. The ritual to follow is interesting; after preparing the skin and lying on the hot marble for some time the therapist uses herbs to rub and brush the body before exfoliating it with a special bath mitt called a Kessa to help remove dead and old skin. After the exfoliation is finished you are rinsed off by having a large brass bucket filled with water poured over you; although odd it was extremely calming in a way. A gentle rinse of the hair followed by a clay mask on the body and a soothing shower outside of the hot marble room and you are left feeling reborn, both mind and body revitalised.

NICE TOUCH To complete the hammam experience a plunge in the cold-water pool located in the treatment area is the final step. Warm up after in the relaxation room with seemingly unlimited mint tea. www.royalmansour.com

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Quick fixes THE ELIXIR CLINIC, DUBAI Get on board with the latest craze amongst the health conscious style setting elite - Vitamin-infusion drips. Who needs juicing when you can pump an instant hit of vitamins straight into your blood stream? We suggest a quick treatment during lunch hour at The Elixir Clinic, who specialise in bespoke intravenous infusions. www.theelixirclinic.com SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY, OMAN Tired of being tired? Us too! If you need to catch some shut-eye, try the Yogic Sleep Program at Six Senses Zighy Bay. It is an insomnia beating, energy boosting retreat that will have you juggling yoga, meditation and massage with the goal to unwind and chill. End the day with a sleep smoothie and your choice of support from the pillow menu for some much needed Zzzs! www.sixsenses.com THE RAW PLACE, ABU DHABI With every nutritionist from LA to Tokyo singing the praises of juicing, we can’t help but get sucked into the cycle of drink, cleanse and repeat. So forget about that store-bought smoothie and drop that morning Frappuccino from your routine - it’s time for Instagramworthy Acai bowls and probably the best green juice this side of the globe courtesy of juice & plant-based food kitchen The Raw Place. We’re still deciding whether we want their Almonchino or Lait De Coconut to go! www.therawplace.com

GO THERE FOR If you're looking for a remote utopia in which to recharge, recoup and most importantly relax your mind and body after the urban madness of everyday life in the city.

Forget a 60-minute do and go for one of Chi’s ultimate Relaxation Journeys. A trio of treatments, they offer a myriad of relaxing and revitalising treats from sensual rose baths and aromatic based massages to caviar infused facials and detoxifying body wraps. You’ll never want to leave!

The Shangri La Doha is the Hong Kong-based franchise's fourth hotel in the Middle East. With 272 rooms and suites, including 42 serviced apartments, this is a must-visit while in Doha. www.shangrila.com

TOTAL BLISS

ALTHOUGH DOHA MIGHT BE A BUSTLING JUNGLE FROM AM TO PM, IT’S ALSO A CITY THAT KNOWS HOW TO RELAX. FOR AN HOUR OF “ME TIME” HIT THE SHANGRI LA’S CHI SPA FOR SOME R’N’R

SPA FACT

Designed for couples to experience together, the Romantic Indulgence Journey encourages the beautiful union of body, mind and soul – a treat for those looking to spice things up.

orget about waiting in line for your turn on the treadmill, lace up those Yezzy’s and make your way to Doha’s hottest (dare we say – revolutionary?) way to break a sweat. With a kick-a** motto of “We are not a gym, we are a fitness lab” and a squad of international instructors OXFitness will have you honing an A-list celebrity derriere faster than you can say Beyoncé who?

CHI, The Spa is the only luxury Asian-themed spa in Doha

All massages and treatments are based on authentic natural healing methods found in traditional well-being practices shared by many Asian cultures. They say yoga is good for the mind, body and soul. So to help find some inner peace and relief, there’s no one else we would open up our heart charkras to than Niya Yoga, the new studio and holistic healing centre where everyone is getting their Om on. Spearheaded by Qatari entrepreneur and one of the most in-demand yoga instructors in town, Jawaher Al Fardan is on a mission to promote not only physical, but also emotional wellbeing, helping us deal with the inevitable anxiety of everyday life. With over 35 classes per week, internationally led workshops, holistic therapies, wellness weekends as well as teacher training courses, you’ll be doing the scorpion (eyes closed!) in no time. That’s not all - there’s also the added bonus of being able to treat yourself to a delicious raw pressed juice (mmm kale!) or glutenfree, plant-based meal afterwards.

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With Evergreen Organics, Qatar’s first ever fully vegan café right next door, it’s time to jump on the green goddess bandwagon. Forget about sad wilted greens and say hello to things like Raw Tacos and Jungle Bowls filled with Amazonian quinoa and lime banana dressing (just trust us on this one, okay?) You’ll also be saving the planet thanks to their concept of use, recycle and reuse – even the ink for their menus is plant based!

GET YOUR FREEZE ON

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COLD THERAPY IS NOTHING NEW, BUT THANKS TO INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES, CRYOTHERAPY IS PROMISING FASTER FAT BURNING AND SMOOTHER SKIN IN JUST THREE MINUTES

Words: Helen Carter

ike a scene from the 1993 cult movie Demolition Man, billowing white frozen clouds are spewing over the top of a cylinder shaped machine standing menacingly in the room. An electronic read out is displaying a rather chilly temperature of -174°C which will drop another six degrees before things really get going. Wearing nothing more than underwear, socks, thermal slippers and a pair of mitts for my hands, I derobe and step in to the now cooled to perfection -180°C degree CRYO chamber. I get the distinct impression that this could be the longest three minutes of my life. Welcome to a new age and to a new must-do health regimen. Cryotherapy, technically, is nothing new, in fact it has been around for a while. The Greeks and Egyptians used cold therapy to help treat pain and inflammation. Fast forward numerous centuries, further investigation in to the benefits of cold therapy have found that Cryotherapy is so effective that this sub zero, three minute treatment for the whole body promises a multitude of

surprising benefits that include cell stimulation, joint strength, better blood flow, an increase in burned calories and fat, toxin flushing, line reduction and weight loss. Sports enthusiasts both in the professional arena - think Christiano Ronaldo and David Beckham - as well as us mere recreational gym and training mortals find that it can help reduce inflammation, reduce aching and swelling muscles as well as enhance training with a quicker recovery time. The fact is, this process works quickly and simply by lowering the temperature of the body using air cooled to between -140C and -180C. Once inside the CRYOSauna the door is closed with only the head protruding outside the cold cloud of dry-ice. The sub zero air is blown all over the body for three minutes. It is advisable to wiggle and jiggle about a little during the three minutes - at around the 2.5 minute mark a prickly sensation may occur (which does subside a few minutes after exiting the chamber). There is no need to worry, this is what three minutes, semi naked at -180C feels like, alongside an

impressive potential of 800 calories being burnt. You are quite literally, feeling the burn! As well as the full body treatment, the CRYO Facial is being hailed as the new, less invasive, alternative to botox as it exposes the skin to temperatures of, yes you gussed it, -140C. Several types of facial treatments are available ranging from Glow which takes a mere 10 minutes (handy for those lunctime breaks) to the Indulgence & Rejuvenation which takes 60 minutes. Starting with a simple cleanse, a hand held wand fitted with ELT (infrared light technology, which uses a coloured light to help stimulate collagen production as well as rejuvenate skin) is wafted over the face and decolatage area cooling the skin, a notably more relaxing and tolerable process than the full body treatment. Post facial skin feels taught for several hours after and regular treatments will show benefits in the form of smoother skin and a reduction in fine lines. Currently CRYO locations can be found in Dubai at Emirates Towers and Dubai Ladies Club, and a single session costs as little as $95. What’s not to like

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about this super fast, super beneficial full body and facial treatment? Absolutely nothing we’re all about the cold! www.ae.cryo.com

BENEFITS OF CRYOTHERAPY l Improves muscle and motor activation l Boosts metabolic rate l Increases circulation & elimination of toxins from the blood and body l Helps with Pain management in joints l Improves collagen production l Reduces cellulite, skin blemishing & skin aging l Removes wrinkles & erases varicose veins l Helps with anxiety, fatigue & insomnia l Enhances energy and endorphin release

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STRIKE A POSE ELIAS EL-INDARI’S 35,000 INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS CAN ATTEST. NOT ONLY DOES THE DUBAI-BASED FOUNDER OF GENTLEMEN’S STYLE SITE, SMFBLOG.COM HAVE A KEEN SENSE OF STYLE, HE IS ALSO A MASTER AT CAPTURING THE ATTENTION OF PHOTOGRAPHERS ALL OVER THE WORLD. HERE, THE INFLUENCER OF LEBANESE DESCENT GIVES US A LESSON IN POSING AND HOW TO TAKE THE PERFECT PICTURE. WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL STYLE MOTTO? You can never be overdressed. WHAT MAKES FOR A GREAT IMAGE? A beautiful, clean and subtle setting, paired with the perfect outfit. You never want to over do it with the background. I always look for either a nice clean wall that allows the image to solely focus on the outfit, like European limestone or wooden doors. Florence to me is the ultimate location. The beautiful cobblestone streets paired with historical buildings and landmarks create the perfect setting for a photo shoot. I love for all my images to be clean, people-free and sharp.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP 3 TIPS FOR MASTERING A POSE? Be natural in your stance, give a little smirk and find a beautiful setting.

WHO TAKES YOUR PICTURES FOR YOUR BLOG AND SOCIAL MEDIA ACCOUNTS? When I travel across Europe, my good friend Darrel Hunter of ModeHunter.co.uk tags along with me on all my adventures. Over the years Darrel has become a very close friend, so I am comfortable telling him when I do and do not like a shot. WHAT POSES ARE YOUR FAVOURITE? The walking shot is always great. It allows the photographer to capture the entire outfit and focus on the details. It is also a very natural shot as opposed to a standstill pose, which may come across as awkward.

WHAT’S THE SECRET TO GETTING NOTICED BY STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHERS? You need to be able to grab their attention with your unique outfit. Small details go a long way. It might be the collection of bracelets you have on or the studded shoes you are wearing. Be different and you will be noticed.

WHAT IS THE MOST NUMBER OF “TAKES” YOU HAVE EVER TAKEN TO NAIL ONE IMAGE? For a recent magazine photo shoot, they had me jumping off walls like some sort of Spiderman to capture the right frame. Let’s just say it was not easy and took well over half an hour to master. YOU’VE COLLABORATED WITH MANY DIFFERENT BRANDS. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR FAVOURITE PROJECT? A recent trip with Bulgari to celebrate the launch of their new Le Gemme men’s fragrance collection, sticks out for me. It was such an incredible experience as the entire trip was spent on a 1920’s Orient Express train that travelled through Prague, The Alps and then through Italy to reach Venice. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE ACCESSORY OF THE MOMENT? My favourite accessory is a timepiece. Right now strapped onto my wrist is a beautiful IWC Portugieser Automatic that is he finishing touch to all my outfits. No one likes a naked wrist!

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ßSONY H.EAR IN WIRELESS The introduction of LDAC, an audio coding technology for the transmission of high-resolution audio (about three times more data than the conventional Bluetooth audio), means unrivaled sound quality in a rainbow of shades.

âMASTER & DYNAMIC MW60 The personalisable retro styling (lampskin wrapped ear pads anyone?) behind the New York City-based brand’s wireless set is just one reason to unplug. High range, noise-isolating microphone and a dual-antenna are three more.

CUT THE CORD

If the rumours are true, Apple may soon be ditching the headphone jack on the iPhone. Here, the latest Bluetooth earpieces for wireless listening.

áBOSE QC35: 40 years of research went into the noise cancelling technology behind their new wireless Quiet Comfort headphones. The result? Up to 20 hours of cord-free listening between charges and the ability to literally tune out the world.

SONY WS413 WALKMAN: à Salt water, dust and rust proof design means you can take your music to the sea or the desert without missing a beat. The all-in-one wire free earpiece and music player also incorporates an ambient sound mode, meaning you don’t need to hit pause to hear the world around you.

EDITOR'S PICK

ANTIQUE ROAD SHOW

You may be waiting with baited breath for the launch of Google’s self-driving car, but until then Taschen is shining a light on the days before wheels came equipped with a robotic chauffeur. Their new tome, Automobile Design Graphics is a feast for the visually inclined, covering eight decades of automotive history through the car brochure – the glossy tool once used to wet drivers’ appetites in showrooms and auto fairs. Featuring the most obscure models (the Ruxton?) to the classics (the Ford V8), over 500 brochures, some of which have gone on to become rare collector’s items, demonstrate the best graphic design the industry ever created. www.taschen.com

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Images: Getty Images

THE STREET STYLE AT THE FLORENTINE MEN’S TRADE SHOW, PITTI UOMO, RIVALS THAT OF FASHION WEEK. THIS SEASON’S TAKEAWAY? INVEST IN A CHECKERED VEST PRONTO!

SLT ARABIA PLUGS IN...

INTERIOR DESIGN AFICIONADO AND OWNER OF DUBAI AND RIYADH-BASED CITIES BOUTIQUE, HAZEM K. ALJESR, SHARES HIS E-HABITS AND DIGITAL ADDICTIONS WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICE CAN’T YOU LIVE WITHOUT? Definitely my iPhone 6S. I really can’t function without it. DO YOU EVER UNPLUG? My phone may always be on but I’m not always actively answering emails or phone calls. I think removing oneself from it for an hour or two on a daily basis is a necessary act to recentre. One always has to remember to slow down and enjoy the world around us. WHAT IS THE DIGITAL TRAIT YOU HATE MOST IN OTHERS? I’m not a fan of oversharing. I’m happy to learn about my friends’ experiences and accomplishments, but I don’t think anyone wants to

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hear overly personal information or all the mundane details of our daily routines. IS THERE ANYONE YOU’RE ADDICTED TO FOLLOWING? There are quite a few design sites that I follow on a regular basis. My favourites are probably Architectural Digest Middle East, Design Milk, and Wallpaper magazine. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE DIGITAL AGE? I think the instantaneousness of it is quite appealing. There is always an answer, an event, an experience; something to discover right at that moment. It’s a very real reminder that no matter what is going on in our individual lives, the world around us goes on.

MR PORTER SAYS - If you’re the guy in a pair of standout – nay, shoutout – shoes, like the jacquard fur slippers (think Rococo Yeti) designed for Gucci by Alessandro Michele, you’ll definitely be heading in the direction of the cuttingedge avant-snug. If you’re not quite ready to go out on that particular limb, there are plenty of other examples of hoof-adelia around this season, from baroque boots to psychedout sneaks, to ensure ypu put your best-dressed, if not trippiest, foot forward.

Photography Ben McMahon for MR PORTER

www.mrporter.com

TRENDING

SHOW-OFF SHOES FROM ATTENTION-GRABBING SOLES TO OVER THE TOP EMBELLISHED KICKS, WEAR THESE TO GET NOTICED! . sur la terre . play .

The Range Rover Sport SVR is available exclusively at Alfardan Premier Motors, Qatar

the sporting life LUXURY & PERFORMANCE ARE TAKEN TO NEW HEIGHTS AS THE RANGE ROVER SPORT SVR S40 MAKES ITS DASHING DEBUT ON THE ROAD PHOTOGRAPHERS: Von Penaranda / Jerome Elizaga MODEL: Ali Ravesh ART DIRECTOR: Charbel Najem PRODUCER: Charbel Najem / Angie Alexopoulou MAKEUP: Givenchy @ Fifty One East, Qatar Shot on location @ Losail International Circuit, Qatar All clothes available @ Fifty One East, Qatar

Above: Polo shirt, sweater & shoes FRED PERRY Jeans, LOW BRAND Watch, ROLEX GMT-MASTER II Opposite: Polo shirt, SERGE BLANCO Watch, ROLEX GMT-MASTER II

Polo shirt , BRIONI Jeans, LOW BRAND Watch, ROLEX GMT-MASTER II

Polo shirt, SERGE BLANCO Jeans, LOW BRAND Shoes, LANVIN Watch, ROLEX GMT-MASTER II

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ALTHOUGH THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS may already seem like a mirage in the distant desert, for the avid traveller these memories have only added fuel for more voyages to come. To continue this high octane need for adventure, we kick off in Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital and a nature lover’s dream and where, come October, this is the spot to catch a glimpse of the mesmerising Aurora Borealis. It’s back to the Middle East after that, where the countdown is on for the opening of a new museum in Marrakech dedicated to the work of legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Speaking of fashion, haute couturier Rami Al Ali shares his little black book to the Mediterranean city of Beirut. In the past the Lebanese capital might have only brought connotations of war and conflict, but these days thanks to a new breed of artists, designers, architects and chefs, Beirut has finally gotten its groove back. Turn the pages to meet the movers and shakers making this the new city of cool.

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GL OBETRO T TER Where to dine, dream and delight your senses like a local – the latest hotel openings, restaurant launches and luxurious goings-on for the global traveller.

LOS ANGELES Australian celebrity chef and television star Curtis Stone has caused quite a stir with his new restaurant Gwen (it’s named after his gran), which he opened on Sunset Boulevard with his brother Luke in late June. Half of the eatery serves a five-course fine dining menu, but the other side is a butcher’s shop where locals go to buy top-line Wagyu steaks to cook at home or grab dry-aged meat sandwiches for their lunch. www.gwenla.com

PARIS

Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper

GENEVA The Swiss city’s Hôtel Royal Savoy Lausanne has reopened after a five-year renovation. Built in 1909, former members of Spanish and Thai royal families have lived here in the past. But it’s the future that is special about this opening, in particular its new spa. Inside you'll find eight treatment rooms offering hot stone and lymphatic treatments, two pools, a hammam and a Clinic Lemanic, a Swiss private treatment centre that offers anti-aging products, laser therapies and plastic surgery. www.royalsavoy.ch/en

On the corner of the Rue Saint-Honoré, close to the Place Vendôme, is Paris’ spanking new overnight address Le Roch. French contemporary interior designer Sarah Lavoine is the creative force behind the hotel & spa’s chic yet subtle rooms – think sage, chartreuse and milky green furnishings matched with natural, authentic materials, such as walnut flooring, alongside furniture by Italian company Cassina. Michelin star French chef Arnaud Faye is the man in the kitchen, while awardwinning architect Vincent Bastie, the man who reinvigorated Les Bains Hotel, has created an exterior that embraces the city’s artistic side, while feeling like a home away from home. www.leroch-hotel.com

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YORK British chef Andrew Pern knows how cutthroat the culinary world can be. He held a Michelin star for nine years before losing it in 2011 only to win it back three years later. Now, he’s the talk of the UK foodie scene again after opening gin and tapas bar Mr P’s Curious Tavern in July. Pern collects what the Brits call ‘nick nacks’, or oddities, old books, antiques, and curiosities such as stuffed hare heads that line the walls. The menu also strays from the norm – you can tuck into venison chilli with black rice or fried quail eggs with burrata. www.mrpscurioustavern.co.uk

VANCOUVER

LOS CABOS It’s the attention to detail that makes the new Ty Warner Mansion stand out from the crowd. Situated on the coast by the Sea of Cortez in Mexico’s Los Cabos region, we don’t envy the poor builder who had the job of laying 7.5 million tiles into the hotel villa’s floors. It also features a 328-foot long infinity pool, a glass elevator that takes guests to a rooftop terrace, a whirlpool spa, a bar, a putting green and a massage pavilion. Its most stunning feature though is in the master bedroom – look up at the ceiling and you can wave at your fellow guests swimming in the lap pool. Millionaire toy maker Warner came up with the idea himself! www.rosewoodhotels.com

Canada is a country on the up, in part thanks to charismatic prime minster Justin Trudeau, but also because many Americans are thinking of moving there if Donald Trump is elected president. But another form of escapism should lure you to Vancouver. Aboriginal Tourism BC offers threeday trips exploring the city; including a two-night stay at Skwachays Lodge, Canada’s first aboriginal art hotel. You’ll have time to shop at exclusive boutiques on Robson Street but you’ll also need a head for heights on this trip – day two sees you head to the North Shore rainforest to walk across the 450-foot long Capilano Suspension bridge. Definitely not for the fainthearted! www.aboriginalbc.com

PHUKET The Infinite Luxury Spa at Thailand’s ultra-luxurious, five star Kata Rocks resort is often called the worlds best, and with good reason - it has the gongs to prove it. A recent double winner at the 2016 World Luxury Spa Awards, Infinite offers guests three and fiveday programs called Glow Retreat, Detox Retreat and Energy Retreat that include daily juice detoxes and pamper sessions with Amazonian mud masks and body scrubs using marine flora and Himalayan salt crystals. www.katarocks.com

MADRID The Spanish capital’s new Gran Meliá Palacio de Los Duques hotel is an intriguing combination of regal décor, local culture and history. Located in the artistic and historical heart of Madrid on the former site of Santo Domingo, one of the 13th century’s most famous convents, you can get lost in the past thanks to the lobby’s 19th century wrought iron and wooden staircase and historical garden or you can enjoy a modern take on fine dining thanks to the Torres Brothers, holders of two Michelin stars. Or opt for adventure at its spa where you’re actively encouraged to rub silkworms over your faces to banish wrinkles. www.melia.com

Courtesy of Laurel & Wolf

NEW YORK Have a love-hate relationship with the great outdoors? Well Manhattan’s W Hotel is offering the ultimate camping experience sans mosquito bites and sleeping bags. Designed by Californian interior design company Laurel & Wolf and situated on the hotel’s 17th Floor terrace is the Extreme Wow Outdoor Glamping Suite, a new luxe rustic oasis for New Yorkers and tourists to experience a night under the stars amidst the concrete jungle. Out go muddy wellies, tin cups and gas cookers, in come comfy loungers, a fire pit, a yurt tent, fake grass, hanging chairs and colourful throws. www.wnewyork.com

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WINTER IS COMING. EMBRACE THE DROP IN TEMPERATURES AND GIVE YOUR SYSTEM A REAL SHOCK WITH AN ADVENTURE-PACKED STOP IN REYKJAVIK, ICELAND. TRADE YOUR LOUBOUTINS FOR SOME SNOW SHOES, YOUR LAND ROVER FOR THE BACK OF AN ICELANDIC PONY AND YOUR HAMMAM SPA FOR A DIP IN THE COUNTRY’S NATURAL GEOTHERMAL HOT SPRINGS. IT’S NATURE AT ITS FINEST, ALL AVAILABLE WITH A CHILLY YET LUXURIOUS TWIST.

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W HER E I N THE WOR LD... Aptly named the land of fire and ice, Iceland’s 103,000 sqaure kilometres of breathtaking terrain is a nature lover’s dream. The island nation’s capital of Reykjavik is a hop, skip and a jump away from Mother Nature’s finest but it also plays host to some of the countries top design talents, swankiest spas and is home to the darling of this year’s Euro Cup. WILDEST DREAMS Its worth the one-hour drive out of Reykjavik to reach the ION Luxury Adventure Hotel in Selfoss. Perched on the side of an active volcano and built in former housing for workers at the nearby Nesjavellir geothermal power plant, the décor of the boutique hotel is accented by locally salvaged driftwood. True to it’s name, the rugged terrain that surrounds the award-winning 45-room spot means getting your outdoor adventure game on is as easy as calling the concierge to book a glacier hike, snowmobile ride or a jaunt on the back of an Icelandic horse. www.ioniceland.is

WATER WORLD The average daily low can drop to a chilly -10°C come winter but that shouldn’t stop you from taking a dip in the balmy geothermal waters of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon. (If Beyoncé can do it in an itsy bitsy white bikini, so can you). The bright blue lagoon holds an impressive 9 million litres of self-cleaning fresh and seawater harnessed from 2,000 metres below the surface and retains an average temperature of between 37-40°C for an outdoor spa experience like no other. Swim up to the Silica bar to slather on a gooey white mud mask or opt for an inwater massage. The minerals do a body good. www.bluelagoon.com

THE GREAT OUTDOORS YOU DON’T HAVE TO TRAVEL FAR TO SOAK IN MOTHER NATURE’S BEAUTY IN AND AROUND REYKJAVIK.

WATCH OUT FOR HULDUFÓLK (TRANSLATION: ELVES)! Icelanders take their FOLKLORE pretty seriously and have been known to ALTER CONSTRUCTION PROJECTS so as not to damage the ROCKS where huldufólk are believed to live.

RETAIL THERAPY Souvenir shopping takes on a new name at these sartorial hot spots FARMERS MARKET

GEYSERS Boiling mud

VOLCANOES In the

WATERFALLS There is

pits and 30 metre high

past 500 years, Iceland’s

no shortage of waterfalls on

exploding geysers that

volcanoes have erupted a

the island. One of the most

blast off every few minutes

third of the world's total

iconic is the Skógafoss. As

are all in a days work in the

lava output. Make time to

seen in Thor: The Dark World,

extremely active Geysir Hot

hike some of the 130 active

it’s worth a walk up the metal

Spring area.

and inactive bumps.

stairs for a rainbow-filled view

NORTHERN LIGHTS

FJORDS Formed by

Your best chance of catching

a glacier tongue, Iceland

GLACIERS Book a day

a glimpse of the mesmerising

boasts 109 of these

trip from the city to explore

Aurora Borealis is from October

U-shaped coastel inlets of

the icy terrain of the

Your one stop co-op shop

yarns woven at the brand’s

to March. Book a twilight boat

land. Rent a car or grab a

country’s crowning jewel,

for access to eight Icelandic

downtown studio make up

ride for a romantic view (and

sea-kayak to get the best

the Jökulsárlón Glacier

talents, including minimalist

the bulk of the cosy yet chic

don't forget to wear layers!).

views - and photos.

Lagoon.

Snuggle up in the brand’s contemporary take on the lopapeysa sweater, a traditional Icelandic style of sweater.

from the top.

GEYSIR KIOSK

womenswear brand Kyrja.

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Locally sourced textiles and

knitwear collection.

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Keeping It Local HOW TO DO BEIRUT LIKE A MIDDLE EASTERN COUTURIER Rowdy and intoxicating are two words that beautifully sum up the Lebanese capital, a city where amidst bullet-scarred buildings lie independent boutiques, stunning grand mosques, designer art galleries and a high-octane boisterous nightlife that never sleeps. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a place where Syrianborn haute couturier Rami Al Ali finds peace, solace and an escape from his work and Dubai atelier. With legions of loyal fans, from celebrities to society darlings, who better to show us around roaring and humming Beirut than the handsome industry heavyweight? Follow the designer as he explores the Mediterranean city, shares his inspirations and takes us on a whirlwind tour of what was once known as the Paris of the Middle East.

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BEST BREAKFAST SPOTS A great way to start the day would definitely have to include a stop at Mandaloun in Ashrafieh. HIPPEST HOTEL The charming and luxurious Hotel Albergo. It has extraordinary views of Beirut, the sea and the Lebanese mountains. MUST-TRY RESTAURANTS Onno in the trendy district of Badaro. They serve things like Basterma with quail eggs as well as a superb Ras Asfour karaz (meat with cherry glaze). TOP THREE MUST-DOS WHILE IN TOWN l Coffee downtown, watching the traffic and people buzzing in and out. l Go to the bookstores in Mar Mikhael to discover hidden jewels. l An early morning jog at the corniche. WHERE TO SEE AND BE SEEN For the trendy and the glamorous, that would have to be Lux in the port FAVOURITE LOCAL DISH & WHERE TO TRY IT I am a big fan of all Lebanese cuisine, especially dishes that are made using old recipes. For me, the best place to try good old authentic Lebanese food is Tawlet - Souk el Tayeb, a farmer’s kitchen where every day a different cook takes on the task of making different dishes from a certain region. FAVOURITE PLACE TO SHOP Orient 499. It's a boutique featuring various items from antiques to modern furniture, clothes and accessories mainly made in Lebanon, Syria, Turkey and Morocco. HOTTEST TABLE IN TOWN The private room at Grand Factory for sure. SECRET HANGOUT SPOT MYU in Gemmayzeh. It’s housed in a former factory. FAVOURITE THING ABOUT BEIRUT The element of surprise! You can go into deserted buildings tucked down small side streets and find the most interesting retailers, restaurants or coffee shops. SOUVENIRS TO TAKE BACK Anything from Nada Debs, the modernised artisan of mother of pearl hand crafted furniture. BEST SPOT TO CATCH THE SUNSET Sporting! FOR THE PERFECT PICTURE A boat ride from the marina with Beirut in the background. WHAT TO PACK Something comfortable and practical yet dressy. Lebanese people love when you put effort into your outfits.

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ORIGINS

the american dream

He may have been born in the United Kingdom but Coach Creative Director Stuart Vevers credits his outsider status as one reason he has been able to separate the kitsch from the cool in American culture. As the New Yorkbased heritage brand celebrates 75 years, SLT speaks to Mr. Vevers on his ambitious plans for leading Coach into the future while staying true to its star-spangled roots. (Hint: it involves more than just a new handbag or two) Words: Julia Seidl

IT’S BEEN THREE YEARS SINCE Stuart Vevers, Creative Director of Coach, moved to the United States and he is still as taken with the nation as the first time he stepped foot on American soil. “I’m an outsider to America, so I romanticise it. The dream of it pulls me in,” says the UK-born designer, who has spent many summer vacations exploring the country, probably more extensively than most natives. And not via private jet or first class as would be customary for most

fashion designers, but by train. Yes, train. Cross country trips to Chicago, Seattle, LA, Memphis and Charleston on the good old Amtrak railway with nothing but the vast countryside speeding by his window have helped him get to the heart of the land, a necessary act for the designer of a brand whose national pride goes back over seven decades. Cinema has proven to be another way. “Growing up in Yorkshire, American films felt so exotic and aspirational,” says Mr.

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Coach Rogue Bag at their FW16 show.

Vevers. “I still go back to many of those films that I watched back then.” He has cited the sweeping landscapes of Terrence Malick films as “perennial references” and counts Working Girl as an all-time favourite. Two very different types of film indeed, but both are very much ingrained in American culture, much the same as Coach has worked itself into the very fibers of American fashion. In the 75 years since the brand was founded in a New York City

loft by six leatherworkers in 1941, Coach has retained its footings in the often fickle industry. If anything, it’s upped its cool factor in the last few seasons, thanks in large part to Mr. Vevers and his focus on a fresh core client base. “New codes of luxury are being defined by the next generation,” says the designer. “They want something that reflects their lives and personalities but still has the fantasy of fashion.” The “they” he is referring to? The cool girl. The death of

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the “it” bag has given way to the birth of the “it” girl and the front row of Coach’s Fall 2016 runway was loaded with pretty young things that are street style photographer magnets - Chloë Moretz (the face of their ad campaign), Dree Hemingway, Emma Roberts and Ciara, to name a few. These stars, like Coach’s target customer, are the kind of girls you’d see walking down the street and want to chase after (or silently stalk on Instagram) to find out where they bought their shoes, their dress, their bag, their everything. That’s part of the motivation behind Coach’s Shop the Runway feature on their website. It allows customers to purchase a bag moments after it makes its debut on the catwalk. For a millennial audience, instant gratification mixed with first dibs is paramount but it’s just one part of Mr. Vevers’ new direction. “Offering a few pieces for sale after the show is a fun extra, rather than a new business strategy,” says Mr. Vevers. “The anticipation of waiting for a runway piece to arrive in stores can be exciting and part of the magic of fashion, at least for me.” For Coach, the runway itself is a relatively new avenue, spearheaded by Mr. Vevers and part of his new vision for the brand (a pre-fall collection is also a new addition). September 2015 marked their first full-blown runway show under the newly minted label Coach 1941. High-end leather goods had always been their staple but with Coach 1941, Mr. Vevers showed a more luxurious side to the heritage brand, resulting in a genre that Coach CEO Victor Luis has called “American luxury”. For Fall 2016 that meant cuddly shearling, layers of sheepskin and fur-lined high-top sneakers, as well as the brand’s new Rogue bag. Available in bell-and-whistle form (think tea rose appliqués or enveloped in rivets), the Rogue also comes in a more basic model

was hired as creative director in 1961, led Coach into women’s fashion and a new era. Brighter colours, innovative hardware (including the turn-lock) and now iconic styles like the Saddle and the Bucket Bag were takeaways of her tenure, which also included the American Handbag Designer of the Year award in 1968. Under Reed Krakoff, who was named creative director in 1997, Coach exploded on the international stage thanks in part to the signature “C” logo, which was inspired by materials from the brand’s archives.

Clockwise from top right: Coach 75th anniversary ad campaign, 2016; models walk the runway at Coach 1941 FW16 show; Coach ad campaigns from the 1960s to 1980s

where what stands out is the material - glovetanned leather, the same material that made Coach a household name. Miles Cahn, who joined Coach in 1946 with his wife Lillian, can be credited with using this glovetanned cowhide leather for the first time in the 1950s. A thicker yet more flexible cowhide that until then had mainly been used in making baseball gloves, it went on to become the house’s signature leather. Sportswear designer Bonnie Cashin, who

When Mr. Vevers arrived on the scene in 2013, vintage Coach provided inspiration for his first season. “I had a good rummage in the archive and then walked away,” says the designer. “I did incorporate some Coach design signatures into the first collection. The turn-lock, hangtag and horse and carriage. But I wanted them to sit within a new context. I deliberately didn’t limit myself to Coach’s heritage. I wanted to trust my instinct on how Coach could be relevant today. The heritage is there, but it’s in the past.” Even before he came on board as creative director, Mr. Vevers felt that America’s premier leather goods brand had already played a role in his own design past. “Every brand I’ve worked with has had Coach pieces in its inspirational archive,” says the designer who, after studying fashion design at the University of Westminster, got his start in the business with Calvin Klein in New York. He was headhunted by Bottega Veneta where he breathed new life into the Italian luxury purveyor’s interwoven leather, after which was followed by time in the accessories departments at Givenchy and Louis Vuitton. Next came

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Creative Director Stuart Vevers

the creative director position at Mulberry in 2004. Fashion fans would agree that the magic Mr. Vevers wove at Mulberry led to some of the period’s most talked about bags (his work on the Bayswater tote is the stuff handbag legends are made of) and earned him the Accessory Designer of the Year at the 2006 British Fashion Awards. 2007 saw the designer at Spanish leather house Loewe where he redesigned their Amazona bag to critical acclaim before he found a new home in New York City at Coach’s new High Line offices. In the three years since his arrival, Mr. Vevers has managed to not only create an escalating buzz around Coach not seen since the days of the logo-happy handbag, but he’s also been able to guide customers to come to Coach for more than just a jacket, handbag or pair of shoes. It’s grown into a fullfledged ready to wear line for both women and men but one that is not so luxurious that it isn’t attainable. “There’s something honest about Coach, in that you want it and you can have it, as opposed to wanting it because it is out of reach,” says Mr. Vevers. “I find that refreshing. As a designer it has been liberating.” Leave it to America to give a man his freedom.

“ The a n ticipation of wa iting f or a ru n way piece t o a r r i v e in st or es c a n be e xciting a n d pa rt of t he m agic of fa shion, at le a st f or me .”

Top: A look from Coach 1941 FW16 collection; inside Coach's archives; bags from Coach 1941 FW16 collection

www.coach.com Left:The craftmenship behind a Coach handbag; Right: footwear from Coach 1941 FW16 collection

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UNTIL 15 SEP

Micro Invasion

WHERE: Doha, Qatar WHEN: Until 15 September WHAT: The post-apocalyptic wastelands in Disney’s WALL-E look like a weekend on Banana Island compared to the worlds brought to life by Japanese painter Masakatsu Sashie. In his latest exhibition Micro Invasion, Sashie paints pictures of dystopian wastelands, offset with large floating orbs built with parts from old vending machines, computers and fast food signs. And you don’t have to be a lonely robot with a dustpan and brush to understand the message – humanity’s obsession with over-consumption and our casual abuse of the environment is going to end in tears. www.animagallerylounge.com

AUGUST

Mid

1 AUG 15 OCT

7 - 11

Setti Fatma Moussem

ART JAMEEL

WHERE: Ourika Valley, Morocco WHEN: Mid-August (dates TBC) WHAT: The Setti Fatma Moussem is regarded as one of the most important festivals to take place annually in Morocco, and usually runs for around three or four days in the middle of August. It’s held in Setti Fatma, a small village in the Ourika Valley, some 60km south of Marrakech and celebrates the local marabout (a Muslim holy man or religious leader) whose shrine, known as a koubba, sits upstream from the village. Ourika Valley is a popular tourist spot for hikers, thanks to its seven spectacular waterfalls, and while only Muslims can enter the Koubba during this special time, other visitors can spend their cash on local fare at a huge market and party the night away when a carnival atmosphere takes over the town. www.visitmorocco.com

WHERE: GCC WHEN: 1 August – 15 October WHAT: It’s that time of year again for all aspiring photographers across the Gulf region to get snappy as the Art Jameel Photography Award is back up for grabs! The latest iteration of the competition will focus on overlapping fields of culture, urbanism and social experimental photography, encouraging artists to experiment with different techniques of image making in all mediums ranging from photography, video and drawing to installation and sculpture. Artists residing in Saudi and all over the GCC are encouraged to apply. www.ajpa.artjameel.org

Varekai by Cirque Du Soleil

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WHERE: Beirut, Lebanon WHEN: 7 – 11 September WHAT: In Greek mythology, Icarus flies too close to the sun, gets burnt and falls into the sea below and drowns. But Canadian theatrical giants Cirque Du Soleil are playing a game of ‘what if’ with one of their most popular shows, Varekai. In this version of the story, Icarus doesn’t end up under the waves – instead he falls into a forest full of fantastical creatures. What follows is a spectacular theatrical performance featuring acrobatics, dance, jugglers and performers flying around the stage attached to aerial straps. Another highlight is a sequence called the Limping Angel, a dexterous performance conducted entirely on a set of crutches. www.entertick.com

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29 SEP 1 OCT

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Giselle

Romeo and Juliet

Yanni Live

WHERE: Dubai, UAE WHEN: 16 September WHAT: The UAE’s new performing arts theatre, Dubai Opera, actually opens on August 31 with a performance by Plácido Domingo. But your chances of seeing the Spanish tenor are slim unless you know people in very high places – the 2,000 tickets sold out in three hours. The good news is this new arena (built to resemble one of the dhow ships made famous in the region) is hosting plenty more world-class talent, including an evening of dance from The Russian State Ballet and Orchestra Of Siberia. This tale of a peasant girl who dies of a broken heart after finding out her lover is betrothed to another debuted in Paris in 1841, and is lauded as one of the greatest romantic ballets of all time. www.dubaiopera.com

WHERE: Muscat, Oman WHEN: 29 September - 1 October WHAT: Happy birthday to Muscat’s Royal Opera House, which turns five this year, and is kicking off its 2016/2017 calendar by celebrating another birthday. William Shakespeare turned 400 this year and the Omani capital’s season of culture starts with perhaps his most famous play, Romeo And Juliet, performed by the Opera De MonteCarlo. Juliet is played by Georgian soprano Nino Machaidze who has been described as the Angelina Jolie of the operatic world and has been voted one of the ten best sopranos on the planet by the respected Opera World magazine. www.rohmuscat.org.om

WHERE: Abu Dhabi, UAE WHEN: 30 September WHAT: His new-age, instrumental music might not get much of a look-in on commercial radio stations, but that won’t worry Greek composer Yanni. During his 36-year career, he’s performed live for more than five million people in over 30 countries and in some pretty spectacular locations, too, including the Taj Mahal, China’s Forbidden City, Dubai’s Burj Khalifa and at Egypt’s pyramids. He’s been known to shift a record or two as well – he’s sold around 25 million copies of his first 16 albums, and will be playing tracks from his 17th, Sensuous Chill, at Abu Dhabi’s du Forum in September, with a 15-piece orchestra. www.thinkflash.ae

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Situated on Rue Yves Saint Laurent, , the new building spans over 4,000 m2 and is designed by by the French architecture firm Studio KO, founded by Olivier Marty and Karl Fournier (pictured below).

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YVES

MARRAKECH THE COUNTDOWN IS ON FOR THE OPENING

MARK YOUR CALENDARS

OF A NEW MUSEUM DEDIC ATED TO THE WORK , H C E K A R R OF IN M A LEGENDARY FASHION DESIGNER YVES SAIN T LAUREN T

Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper

Here at SLT we do love a new museum opening and especially one on home turf in the Middle East. And now as well as continuing to wait with baited breath for both Abu Dhabi’s Louvre and Guggenheim to open, there is a new fixture on the cultural calendar for us to pine over – Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech (mYSLm), a museum dedicated to the work of legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent, due to open in Marrakech next autumn.

The museum will open its doors near the renowned Jardin Majorelle, a garden Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent bought back in 1980. The duo considered the city their second home.

You will want to get your finest frills on for a visit, not to mention a sensible style of shoe (i.e. a pair of flats) as there will be a copious amount of style per square foot, and spanning over 4,000 sq. ft. that is a lot of ground to cover. Designed by French architecture firm Studio KO, the stunning building will not only house a permanent display of the designer’s work staged by Christophe Martin (a selection from the impressive Foundation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent collection), but there will also be a space for temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bookshop, a research library housing 5,000 books (including history, literature, poetry and volumes on botany, Berber culture and of course Yves Saint Laurent’s oeuvre), and a café-restaurant with a terrace, all of which as you can imagine, are set to be nothing short of style central. This is without a doubt a destination not only for fashion followers, but art purveyors, literature lovers and design aficionados.

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MARRAKECH TALES The opening will coincide with the Foundation’s Parisian museum opening next autumn, so there is plenty of time to scrub up on your fashion know-how and the YSL oeuvre. Depending on the level of your YSL knowledge to date, you may wonder why Marrakech was chosen for

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NEWS

STYLE

BEAUTY

PLAY

LIFE

CULTURE

The new museum will house an important selection of 5,000 items of clothing, 15,000 haute couture accessories as well as tens of thousands of sketches.

the museum’s location. Paris, mais oui, but Marrakech? You can thank Yves Saint Laurent’s first visit to the city in 1966 with companion Pierre Bergé when the pair fell in love with the place. It became a favourite spot for the duo, who treated the city as their second home. Throughout his career, Marrakech remained a huge inspiration for his work. “Yves Saint Laurent and I discovered Marrakech in 1966, and we never left,” explains Pierre Bergé, President of the Foundation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent. “This city deeply influenced Saint Laurent’s life and work, particularly his discovery of colour,” he adds. Yves Saint Laurent’s passion for the city and its rich colour and style is beautifully reflected in the museum’s design, which has been inspired by his work and the duality between curves and straight lines, and the succession of loose and clean cuts. The exterior sees a stunning blend of terracotta, concrete and earthen coloured terrazzo with Moroccan stone fragments designed to create a pattern resembling threads of fabric, while inside, the style resembles that of the lining of a couture jacket – luminous, velvety and smooth. The museum will open its doors on the very apt, Rue Yves Saint Laurent near the renowned Jardin Majorelle, a garden Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent bought and saved from demolition in 1980, and where today his ashes are scattered. The Berber museum stands housing Bergé and Saint Laurent’s vast collection of Berber art, a must-visit particularly for art fans.

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THINGS TO KNOW 4d

l Yves Saint Laurent was born in Algeria in 1936, when it was still considered part of France.

l He moved to Paris aged 17 and following some time at fashion school worked at Dior until the designer’s death in 1957. l His friend Pierre Bergé organised the financial backing for him to set up his own fashion house in 1962. l In 1966 he introduced le smoking, his iconic smoking suit and in 1968, the jumpsuit. Villa Oasi s © Nicolas Mathéus

Yves Saint Laurent first fell in love with Marrakesh back in 1966 on a visit with Pierre Bergé (left). The duo then went on to save the Jardin Majorelle (top) from demolition, turning it into their home.

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l Together, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre created a multi-million dollar business and in 1989 became the first fashion house to be floated on the Paris Bourse. l Saint Laurent showed his last couture show in 2002.

Emergeast Suggests

WATCH OUT FOR... With the Middle Eastern art scene constantly evolving, it’s difficult for budding young collectors to know who they should be spending their hard earned dimes on. That’s why online art gallery EMERGEAST.com – created by art authorities Nikki Meftah and Dima Abdul Kader – are the ones to turn to when it comes to the region’s hottest up and coming artists to invest in. Amongst the heap of talent under their umbrella, Yassine Alaoui Ismaili is proving to be the one to watch. Read on to find out why you should be buying one of his pieces right now. WHO: Yassine Alaoui Ismaili aka YORIYAS is poised to make his mark as one of the Middle East’s most sought after artists. With the lens of his camera capturing moments often unnoticed to the naked eye, the medium of photography has chosen this self-taught artist to turn our eye to scenes that are both intimate and enlightening. WHAT: YORIYAS’ inaugural photography series follows the ripples of his homeland Casablanca. Coined “Casablanca…not the movie”, the series captures the multi faceted social fabric of Morocco today. Taken over the last five years, the artist has built a comprehensive yet unique collection of moments of his travels never captured before. Witty yet insightful, YORIYAS manages to effortlessly embody whole definitions of a society through one shot.

Clockwise from top: Street Prayers, 62cm x 100cm, $1,800; The Mirrors, 65cm x 100cm, $1,200; Untitled, 50cm x 70cm, $950; Casagrafic, 65cm x 90cm, $950.

WHERE: The artist has exhibited worldwide where his raw and rare talent was rewarded in the Middle East Photography competition, winning first prize. He was also chosen to feature in the World Street Photography book as well as for the cover of APF Magazine Street Photography. Furthermore, YORIYAS’ works have been chosen to feature in the coveted National Geographic magazine and he has been picked to exhibit in PhotoLondon and PhotoIreland. This is just the beginning for the unique artist. His works have not been available commercially until now, with his series available for sale for the first time on Emergeast.com. WHY: YORIYAS in simple terms fits the bill of a true emerging artist to keep a keen eye on. The artist’s definitive series is set to make its way to esteemed collections and exhibitions worldwide. Get collecting! www.emergeast.com

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COVETS EDITOR’S PICK

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