Sur La Terre - Issue 25 by Firefly Communications

Editorial “I think I must be getting old, as my concept of what looks good seems to be significantly at odds with what you and your peers find extremely beautiful. Whatever happened to grace, elegance and flowing lines..?”

Erratum / Addendum Unfortunately, despite our best efforts, sometimes we make mistakes. In the last issue, Sur la Terre 24, we misspelled the name of the St Regis’ recently opened Hakkasan restaurant in The Scene. However, that has now been rectified and you will find a full review of the correctly monikered, five-star Chinese eatery on page 36. Also, we neglected to mention that the Four Seasons Doha kindly provided the beautiful location for our photoshoot. We wholeheartedly apologise for this oversight and thank the management and staff of the hotel for their continued support of Sur la Terre.

This was the lament of my uncle, as I extolled to him the virtues of the new Lamborghini Aventador Roadster. To a certain degree, he has a point. Cars of his era, and very much of my dreams, such as the Aston Martin DB5, the Jaguar E-Type and the Lamborghini Muira, are considered, along with one or two others, as the pinnacle of automotive design. However, they were built using metal panels that were beaten and bent by hand, while today’s supercars offer a different aesthetic, in part due to the evolution of the materials used to create them and a greater knowledge of aerodynamics, as well as their more extreme performance capabilities. It is these elements that chiefly define the way designers and engineers apply their expertise. So, while my uncle has a very valid point, the perception of what is beautiful in the automotive industry has shifted, in parallel, with the evolution of the machine. It’s like asking Da Vinci his opinion of Picasso’s Weeping Woman. That said, the same is true of art, and people’s attitudes to it; particularly art with massive cultural significance, such as Islamic calligraphy. Case in point is the work of eL Seed, the street artist who has shifted artistic paradigms with his Calligraffiti movement. Compare that to the august Haji Noor Deen, who recently completed a cross-cultural workshop, organised by McGill University in Montreal, with funding from the Qatar government. All of these things form the basis of two loose themes in this issue, with SLT Senior Editor, Steven Paugh, examining the artistic latter, while I get revved up about the latest and greatest in the automotive world, including a first drive of the new McLaren Spider. I also opine about the Arab world’s first hypercar and cast my view on the Qatar Motor Show. UAE-based motoring maven, Damien Reid, does the same for a rejuvenated Geneva Salon D’ Auto, while Rolls-Royce CEO Torsten Müller-Ötvös explains how the company has weathered the economic storm to post record results. Let’s not forget our usual forays into the world of fashion with Sophie Jones-Cooper, Laura Hamilton’s snowy sojourn to Turkey, SLT International’s pick-of-the-tickers from SIHH and our introduction to Shana Seligson, a boutique handbag designer that is bringing her latest collection to the region for the first time. With all of that high-octane stuff, and much, much more, it is with a Spring in our step that we invite you, once again, to slip into the sublime, turn the page and enjoy.

James McCarthy

Regional Managing Editor

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CONTENTS

DOHA NUMBER 25

the list A r t , c u lt u r e , l i f e s t y l e

the scene W e r e yo u s e e n o n t h e s c e n e ?

f o r y o u r e y e s o n ly Th e t h i n g s yo u n e e d to o w n

rev ue Hakk a san and gypsy juice

gl obe tro t ter Yo u r g u i d e to g lo b a l l u x u r y

st y le con fiden ti a l St y l e D r i v e

i n focus R o l l s - R oyc e c e o ta l k s e x pa n s i o n

u p cl ose & per son a l Ta l e n t e d & pa s s i o n at e p e o p l e

Acce ssor ie s I t â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s i n t h e b a g

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ESCAPE TO TRADITIONAL LUXURY Al Najada Boutique Hotel is an exquisite oasis in the heart of Dohaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world famous Souq Waqif. A member of the Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels collection, Al Najada offers sophisticated business and leisure travellers a timeless Qatari experience handcrafted from the finer things in life.

CoNtENtS

DOHA numBEr 25

i n Mo tion M c l A r e n â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s to p l e s s M o d e l

tr en ds con fiden ti a l A W i n n i n g WA r d r o b e

looK booK th e b e s t lo o k s f o r g u y s

fe atu r e h A u t e v o i t u r e : g e n e vA

fa s h i o n th e A r t o f d r e s s i n g

a rt opi a f r o M Q AtA r to c A n A d A t h r o u g h isl A M i c Art

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girls

20 13

hor iZons tu r k i s h d e l i g h t s

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b e au t y be Aut y Addic tion

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lifestyle th e b e s t o f

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o u t o f t h e b oX Q M s , t h e ly k A n A n d k h A r to o n s

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M a r K e t p l ac e p r o d u c t s AvA i l A b l e lo c A l ly

si h h

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H e is richest who is content with the least, f or content is the wealth of nature . - Socrates

the list arts and culture

7 Mar 16 June

22 April 20 July

Hey’Ya: Arab Women in Sports

Birth of a Museum

The Score - Amjad Ali Khan

WHEN: 7 March - 16 June WHERE: Doha, Qatar WHAT: Art Exhibition 2012 was the year of the female Olympians, whether it was Jessica Ennis, or Saudi runner Sarah Attar. This touring exhibition looks at Arab female athletes who have overcome obstacles to represent their countries. It’s a topic that is certainly touching the hearts of many; when Attar struggled to cross the finishing line, everyone watching was cheering her on to her own personal victory. Artist Abdullah Alshehri has made her into an icon and immortalised her in street art. Subjects of the exhibition include Nada Arakji, who represented Qatar in the 50m women’s freestyle, who has said that being in the water makes her feel free, and Amal Mohammed Awad, a basketball player who also played for Qatar. www.qma.org

WHEN: 22 April - 20 July WHERE: Manarat Al Saadiyat, Abu Dhabi WHAT: Art Exhibition The controversial Louvre Abu Dhabi has not yet been built, but that doesn’t mean that the Abu Dhabi Government can’t give art lovers in the region a taster of what’s to come. The sneak preview is a select collection of 130 artworks that the new museum has acquired so far. Although small, the collection is ambitious, offering a rereading of the history of art, a comparison between artworks from great civilisations and an exploration of the status of the works of art. Heavy stuff! There will also be more of the popular Louvre Abu Dhabi: Talking Art Series, which will give people the chance to discuss the museum’s growing collection. www.saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae

WHEN: 28 May WHERE: Dubai WHAT: Concert Amjad Ali Khan is an Indian classical musician, widely acknowledged as one of the century’s greatest masters of the sarod - an instrument similar to the sitar. He was only six years old when his father gave him his first sarod and he has since gone on to play all around the world, from Edinburgh to Adelaide, and has been the recipient of many awards for his talent and achievements. He has even become a UNICEF ambassador. He brings his handsome sons Amaan and Ayann for an evening of ragas, Indian folk songs and general merriment and improvisation to Dubai. “There is no essential difference between classical and popular music. Music is music. I want to communicate with the listener who finds Indian classical music remote,” he has said. www.thescore.ae

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May

the list ENTERTAINMENT

April

Bruno Mars

Prague Philharmonic in Istanbul

Metallica

WHEN: 12 April WHERE: Istanbul WHAT: Concert “Music is a higher revelation than all wisdom and philosophy,” said Ludwig van Beethoven, and it is true that music has the power to unite people. Ban-Ki Moon has recently said as much about Psy’s “Gangnam Style,” of all things. The most beautiful music, however, is classical, and studies have shown listening to and playing this style of music actually makes you smarter. If you’re in Istanbul, then you’re in luck, as the best orchestra in the Czech Republic will be in the beautiful city, where Jakub Hrusa will conduct Mozart’s “Symphony no 32 in G Major,” Beethoven’s “Piano Concerto no 4 in G Major” and Dvorak’s “Symphony no 8 in G Major.” www.praguephilharmonia.com/en

WHEN: 19 April WHERE: Yas Island, Abu Dhabi WHAT: Concert “WE’RE OFF TO NEVER NEVERLAND!” That’s what you will be screaming with glee as you’re on the way to Yas Island, to see the 7th biggest selling act in American history - Metallica. The Californian heavy metal band started back in 1981, when Lars Ulrich made guitar player/singer James Hetfield an offer he couldn’t refuse, and then slowly the band came together. Not long after they first started gigging, they became a hot commodity, reaching the top of the charts and staying there for over 30 years! Metallica plays all over the world and comes to Abu Dhabi regularly; the energetic and wild performances are hugely popular so make sure you get your tickets early. www.thinkflash.ae

WHEN: 12 April WHERE: Dubai WHAT: Concert The best radio dedication ever heard in Doha was when one possibly confused man asked for “Grenade” by Bruno Mars to be played for his girlfriend. For those who are unfamiliar with Mars’ music, it contains the line “tell the devil I said hey when you get back to where you’re from. Bad woman, bad woman, that’s just what you are, yeah, you smile in my face then rip the breaks out my car!” In other words, not exactly a love song. Yet, Mars’ beautiful voice lulls you into a revery and puts a smile on your face. Not only a seemingly effortless singer, he’s also a songwriter and he penned the hugely memorable “Forget You” by Ceelo Green. Not one to miss. www.brunomars.ae

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the list Lifestyle

4-7

April

11 - 17

April

MotoGP - Commercial The Gulf Film Festival Bank Grand Prix of Qatar 2013 WHEN: 4 - 7 April WHERE: Doha, Qatar WHAT: Motorcycle Grand Prix In the Gulf, it seems that your manhood is decided by how fast and recklessly you steer your motorbike. For those who do not wish to risk certain death on the roads, but love the aesthetic, the speed and the delicious noise of the motorcycle, then get yourself to MotoGP. Qatar’s only motorbike Grand Prix kicked off five years ago, and since then thousands have flocked to the Losail track to watch the floodlit night race. Last year’s winner Jorge Lorenzo will be back astride the Yamaha bike to defend his title from the likes of his teammate Valentino Rossi, who has claimed the Qatar GP trophy three times, as well as the challenge from four-time winner, Ducati’s Casey Stoner. With all this quality on display, it is guaranteed to be a thriller and, as the first fixture in the 2013 MotoGP championship, it will set the tone for the rest of the year’s racing. www.qmmf.com

WHEN: 11 - 17 April WHERE: Dubai Festival City WHAT: Film Festival Film is a fairly new art form, one that is being refined and redefined as we speak, but it is easily the most universal of all the genres of art, and that is why it is so important. The Gulf Film Festival 2013 is a seven day cultural event that inspires and supports regional filmmakers by both shining a spotlight on what is happening in the region and by creating partnerships with global studios. All the festival films are screened free of charge, allowing you to delve into a cinematic experience you would never have otherwise. There are also workshops, panels and other events to enjoy. www.gulffilmfest.com

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April

HSBC Youth Rugby Bahrain WHEN: 12 April WHERE: Bahrain WHAT: Rugby Championship Rugby is not just a sport, it is a way of life, and around the GCC, it is a way of life that HSBC is keen to introduce to children. The HSBC Youth Rugby Series concludes in Bahrain this April, where up to 1,000 junior rugby players will compete for the cup and glory! Last year, the Doha Rugby Club and the Bahrain Rugby Club were the clear winners, earning the most points. The two teams are again keen to win the grand prize - a new rugby kit for the whole team and a training session with an HSBC ambassador. HSBC is also hosting a new initiative, Kit for Kids, where parents and children will be encouraged to donate unwanted sports gear to underprivileged children. www.hsbc.ae

th e scen e

KPMG Celebrates 35 years in Qatar â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

C elebrating 3 5 years in Q atar , K PMG hosted an evening reception f or V I P s , local partners and clients at the R it z C arlton .

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6 1. Mr and Mrs Jacques Loubse. 2. George T.C. and his wife with Mr and Mrs Balan. 3. Mr and Mrs Jeroen Menting. 4. Ayman Kobeissi, Blake Pickering and Magdalena Szulzyk. 5. Babar Rais and his wife with Mujeeb Ur-Rehman Khan. 6. Global Chairman of KPMG, Michael Andrew (L), with Qatar Managing Partner, Jamal Fakhro (R). 7. Yacoub Hobeika and HH Sheikh Thani Bin Abdullah Bin Thani Al Thani meet the US Ambassador to Qatar, Susan Ziadeh.

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Mövenpick celebrates Chinese New Year —

VIPs and Guests at the Mövenpick in Doha ushered in the chinese year of the Snake in February, as the Chinese ambassador to qatar, H.E. Youzhen Gao presided over the festivities.

1. Jan Kaiser and H.E. Youzhen Gao, the Chinese ambassador to Qatar. 2. Sophia of Qatar Joy Travels and friends. 3. Ana Galuteva, Mark Angeles, Aprille Balbin and Allesandra Bell. 4. Hind Lachgar of QDVC, Saiful Rahman, Mr Jewith and Mr Mawish.

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5. Shamila Abdul Khader from CMU-Qatar and husband. 6. Kjetil and Solveig Stavenjord. 7. Zhang Bing, Wang Xin and Wang He. 8. Raul Acabado & family.

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The Emir’s Trophy the Racing and Equestrian Club, in association with longines, hosted the Emir’s Trophy in February. As well as the spectacular racing and beautiful — — horses on show, the ladies of Qatar turned out in force to add some glitz and glamour to the occasion with wonderful hats and outfits.

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The Emirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Trophy

9 1. HH Sheikh Abdullah Bin Khalifa Al Thani, special adviser to the Emir, rewarded Longines, represented by Juan-Carlos Capelli, for their support of the event with a trophy. 2. Kirsty and Sacha. 3. Lizette and Reshmi. 4. Nicolas, Christopher, Judy, Eric and Michael. 5. Piret, Ashleigh, Elisabete and Monica. 6. Marge and Maves 7. Sinta, Marepe, Grace and Ria. 8. Sanawagas and Mahnoor. 9. Oka, Putri and Erani. 10. Alina, Alona and Emilia.

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Rosa Clara â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Spanish bridal gown sensation, Rosa Clara, brings her elegant and feminine â&#x20AC;&#x201D; designs to The Gate Mall, after opening her first shop in Qatar

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1. Elias, Rala and Mowzer. 2. Managing Director of Salam Luxury, Pierre Khoury. 3. The Gate - Salam team pose with a model. 4. Rosa Clara, Mr Issa Abu Issa, the Spanish ambassador to Qatar, H.E. Mrs. Carmen De La Pena and Pierre Khoury. 5. Mr Issa Abu Issa, H.E. Carmen De La Pena and Rosa Clara cut a commemorative cake. 6. Jaya San Jose modelling a bridal gown. 7. Francesca, Linda and Gisele.

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Kuwait Yacht Show 2013 —

THE MIDDLE EAST’S GLIT TER ATI WERE INVITED TO THE INAUGUR AL KUWAIT YACHT SHOW ORGA NISED BY PUBLISHING HOUSE PH7, WHERE BIGWIGS COVETED THE PLEASURE BOATS ON SHOW.

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4 1. Local players Gulf Craft attended the event with its Majesty 61. 3. SLT’s Laura Hamilton with the media. 4. The sporty Super Air Nautique 230. 5. One of the luxurious floating palaces on show.

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For your eyes only

WELCOME To a world where money is no object and Cool comes at a price. FYEO is A millionaire’s shopping list that gives you an iNSIDE track to the things you need to own.

Super Garia Cart >>> Your golf game might very well rival the best in the clubhouse, but if you’ll pardon the thematic pun, you still have one “handicap” - style. That beat-up, old cart you’ve been rocking down at the club quite simply is not the hole-in-one statement you need to make while you’re shooting more eagles than a poacher. It’s time to up your game and find your sartorial swing, tiger, and you can start by hopping into the brand new, fresh from the 83rd-annual Geneva Motor Show, Garia Mansory Currus. Designed in a joint effort between Garia, the Finland-based automotive artistisan known for its work on Porsche and Opel, and Mansory, the car customiser made popular by its re-imagining of such

great marques as Bentley, Bugatti and Ferrari, the Currus revs up the style-factor in a game otherwise regarded for its ridiculous socks. Kitted-out with lithium batteries that give it an extended range of 60 km (37 miles), and a speed package that makes it both illegal in America and street-legal in Europe, this blingy little buggy even has three driving modes: Golf, Street and ... get this ... Race ! Bedecked in luxury, from a genuine leather dash to a carbon fibre body, this superexclusive cart (only seven will ever be produced) will look as good as it leaps when you take your victory lap around the links. www.garia.com

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High Stroller >>> Your child may not have cut his own teeth yet, but that doesn’t mean he hasn’t already begun developing discerning taste. Does he require his formula shaken, not stirred? Does he demand 100% cashmere in his nappies? If so, then, like you, legendary car manufacturer Aston Martin and renowned luxury baby carriage designer Silver Cross have given birth to something a bit more... refined. Behold, prosperous parents, the Aston Martin Silver Cross Surf! For a cool US$2,980, you too can swan your spawn about in this exclusive pram, which comes dressed to the nines in many of the same materials employed within Aston’s own automotive offspring, from sumptuous suede to luxurious Alcantara. Of course, Silver Cross, which has been producing quality carriages in Britain since 1877, is taking another page out of Aston’s book by putting a few bundles of joy “under the bonnet,” so to speak. These include an impeccable air-ride suspension system (good for all terrains), a multi-position hand-bar, aluminium wheels based on the Aston Martin One-77 and a chassis finished in an anodised aluminium and magnesium alloy. This (ahem) baby also comes stacked with a performance fabric hood and apron, a sun shade and a folding detachable shopping basket. It is also replete with the signature Aston Martin wings and is certified by a letter of authenticity, explaining that you are one in only 800 owners of this exclusive buggy, and justifying that your little bundle is one-in-a-million. www.harrods.com

Time Flies >>> As the old latin saying goes, “tempus fugit,” but perhaps never before has that expression been so apt as it is when describing MB&F’s latest horological heavyweight, the HM4 Thunderbolt! Inspired by founder Maximilian Büsser’s childhood obsession with model planes and aviation, the Thunderbolt indeed appears like something The Rocketeer, in his classic-cool, pulp action way, might sport. This infinitely unique timepiece is bound to propel the art of Time to stratospheric new heights, piloted as it is by an intricate, elegant engine with over 300 components and a titanium-skinned look that is at once light, lean and incredibly lethal. Its two instantly iconic, horizontally-configured dual mainspring barrels transfer power to twin displays indicating hours, minutes and a power reserve, while its powerful heart can be viewed beneath a veil of sapphire that has been machined and polished to perfection for over 185 hours. The true chronal connoisseur can also select from one of two limited editions (eight pieces each), Razzle Dazzle and Double Trouble, which feature actual rivets in the fuselage and hand-painted nose art inspired by the airborne artistry of the Allied forces in WWII. Other limited editions feature 5N red gold, titanium and sapphire or blackened titanium and sapphire. For timekeeping with proper thrust, accept no substitutes. www.mbandf.com

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a toy For lE MaNS iN your liFE >>> Let’s be honest, growing up is dumb, especially when there are such cool toys out there, but we’re not talking about the digital dalliances of today. We like video games and gadgets as much as the next guys, but give us a Hot Wheels track and some sugar, and we’ll be keyed-up for the rest of the week! That’s why we’re so happy about this full-sized Porsche 917 replica, which has something a bit more “fun” concealed beneath its hood; namely, a faithfully-rendered, 1:32-scale, working wooden slot car track of the legendary Le Mans raceway. Priced at $125,000 and inspired in both presence and colour by the classic film Le Mans starring king of cool, Steve McQueen, the body of this beautiful beast comes complete with raceworn GT prototype tires on aluminum three-piece rims and working headlights and tail lights. The fun continues on the inside as a button opens the 917 like a treasure chest, revealing a painstakingly articulated reverence for the iconic raceway, representing everything from the Marchal sign on the threelevel grandstand over pit row to the classic Dunlop tire bridge. This truly amazing labour of love will further excite your childlike sense of wonder with its detail, from realistic landscaping and working streetlights to hand-wrought aluminium Armco guardrails with weathered wooden posts. The entire package comes with 12 limited-edition slot cars meticulously designed after the models from 1970-71, including a Porsche 917, ferrari 512 Coda Lunga, and Lola T70, each of which can be controlled by dual analogue racing controllers. Prep the fizzy drinks, Mum... we’re gonna need some energy. www.hammacher.com

boXiNg MuSiC >>> Welcome to the place where vintage meets the vanguard. One of the quirkiest little implements we’ve seen in some time, the iReuge beautifully marries together the digital age with the forgotten analogue lustre of the mechanical music once made popular by the traditional music box. It is, by its own admission, “the first mechanical music station for mobile phones.” In setting your iPhone to vibrate and placing it on the $10,500 iReuge, there is activated a clever little mechanical system which initiates one of three separate Reuge musical movements. Once the mobile phone vibrates, a musical movement consisting of 72 notes plays, while simultaneously charging your phone via an imaginative system of electrical induction. Produced alongside a bevy of craftsmen, engineers and designers like Philippe Loup and Eric Meyer, with a musical movement made and assembled by hand and with traditional methods in workshops throughout Saint-Croix, this objet d’art is a fascinating fusion of function and, of course, form. Ruminating in a blackgloss lacquer box, decorated in rich Macassar ebony and enhanced by bronze polished glass, the heart of this tactile talking piece pumps with a musical movement that comes fitted with a nickel-plated finish and steel blue screws decorated with Côtes de Genève engravings. There’s nothing like mechanical music, particularly when vetted through the digital age. * The iReuge currently does not work with the iPhone 5. www.reuge.com

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r evu e r e stau r a nt

The Tao of Being Delicious: Hakkasan Four and a half pearls

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It could be said that Qatar’s corpulent reputation is only fuelled by the constantly evolving epicurean landscape of it’s capital, in which, it seems, a new restaurant opens up every other week to become the darling of Doha’s foodies. SLT’s Laura Hamilton goes to check out the latest culinary serving to have city’s diners salivating - Hakkasan at St Regis.

hen Hakkasan popped up in the St. Regis, it was with a bang. There were no word-of-mouth recommendations; everyone seemed to know it was coming, each had their opinion and set about comparing and contrasting it to its sister venues in London and the UAE. Within a day of opening, I was listening to friends talking about their trip to Hakkasan, marvelling at how quickly they had dined at the hottest new restaurant in town. Although Doha is filled with all kinds of Asian restaurants, places to eat Chinese are thin on the ground. Started over a decade ago by Alan Yau, Hakkasan promises to be the Nobu of Chinese food and has already won a Michelin star in London; this new restaurant has serious credentials. But as I asked CEO and fellow Scot, Niall Howard, the question is will it fall victim to the Doha curse. Many restaurants lose their international chefs after a few months and the standards fall, often dramatically. He reassured me that will not happen in Hakkasan. “Keeping standards high is very important to us. We have a traveling executive chef who is responsible for finding and training chefs, so we won’t be putting chefs in and then removing them.” There is a reason the restaurant is hugely popular - the cuisine is consistently delicious.

开胃酒 (apératif) The bar itself is a cool hangout spot; the place to go after work for those of us who are bored of Wahm. The bar is long, with blue lighting and a bar staff

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from London, who are hugely knowledgeable. While I was being a lone wolf (read: waiting for my tardy dining companion known as McKaren) at the bar, I ordered The Long Dragon; sake, Martini Bianco vermouth, prosecco, lime and ginger ale, which made me feel like an Eastern Katharine Hepburn, classy but also jazzy. The fizzy delight was refreshing and it cleared my palate for the meal ahead, without being citrusy. Another cocktail I would recommend is the Lychee Martini, but be prepared to flick through the cocktail menu as if you were reading poetry; it’s divided into Elegance Martinis, Strength and Grace, and Character, along with all the usual suspects.

前菜 (starter) After McKaren showed up, allowing me enough time to admire the low lighting, the intimate yet open space and music (Hakkasounds - which, amazingly for a bar area in Doha, has managed to balance being able to hear music, and being able to hear yourself), we opened our menus and the great debate began. After a discussion over what to have, in between talking about work, love lives, traffic and weekend plans, we ooh and ahh and finally decide dumplings are the way to start. The menu at Hakkasan is designed for sharing - the way of the future. Previously, the grass was always greener and whatever the person next to you had ordered was exactly what you didn’t realise you craved, and your plate is suddenly second best. Or, you couldn’t choose between two or even three dishes and ended up regretting your choice. Sharing ultimately means you taste more and eat more; the fattie/foodie philosophy. And so, we picked up our chopsticks and started with the Hakka Steamed Dim Sum, with scallop shumai, har gau, prawn and Chinese chive dumpling, and black pepper duck dumpling. It is delicious and colourful; with lime green, orange caviar, brown and transparent skins, the bright colours somehow made it more appetising. The pleated bonnet shrimp dumpling was delicious, and the har gau perfect with a soft interior and popping caviar, but the duck dumpling was too moist and a rather unattractive colour for a dumpling, unfortunately. But it is the Jasmine Tea Smoked Wagyu Beef Ribs that really took our fancy, with strips as soft as butter piled up in a bowl. It vanished within seconds, and I’m a reformed vegetarian, who usually doesn’t enjoy beef. It’s that good. It’s worth going to Hakkasan just to sample this smoky delicacy.

主菜 (main course) For the main course, we went for Pipa Duck, but unfortunately it was disappointing. After sampling the innovative and more-ish caviar duck pancakes at the opening, I had a hankering for tender, chewy duck. The presentation was a little lacklustre, very plain, but worst of all, under the crispy skin, there is a thick layer of fat, which mars the taste of the duck. Spending two minutes scraping off the yellow blubber almost killed my appetite. However, I am willing to admit that some people don’t mind fat as much as I do, and it is the traditional and authentic way to eat duck in China - with the skin and fat still attached for extra flavour and texture. If you like duck, I would recommend sticking to the Peking Duck with Caviar - a whole duck with cucumber, spring onion and 30g of caviar sprinkled into the hoisin sauce. It feels decadent paring duck with caviar, and the combination of thin pancake, crunchy cucumber and bubbles of caviar is truly divine. Or try the Crispy Duck Salad, which I learnt to assemble (alas, not make, as letting me near a wok would end disastrously) with Chef de Cusine Lai Min Wei and was allowed to devour. Crunchy salad and juicy duck is a match made in heaven. We also chose the Stir-fry Scallops with Chinese Chive, which were perfectly cooked (as there is nothing worse than overcooking scallops), but did not really need the vegetable mix they came in. The two vegetable dishes we picked in an attempt to be slightly healthy were perfect antidotes to the soft and chewy meat we chose. Crunchy and fresh, the French Bean with Minced Chicken is not something I would have thought of as typically Chinese, nor the Asparagus in XO Sauce, but they were delicious.

葡萄酒单 (wine list) Afterwards, my dining companion and I decided to rest our stomachs a little and indulge in some wine before dessert. Hakkasan takes its wine very seriously; wine found in the restaurant cannot be found anywhere else and every month it has a tasting session to check if the new vintages perfectly complement the dishes. If not, they’re off the menu. Pour over the menu and ask the sommelier for an expert opinion, safe in the knowledge that anything you choose will work. We chose the Cerejeiras, Companhia Agricola do Sanguinhal and despite

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being snobbish about Portuguese wine, found it was surprisingly delectable, fruity and rich.

Cooking Lessons

甜点 (dessert) For dessert, we chose the delightfully named Jivara Bomb and the Chocolate Orange with Orange Sorbet. The Jivara Bomb is an orb of hazelnut ice cream covered in rice crispies doused in chocolate sauce; a culinarily orgasmic treat of textures that varied between the popping rice crispies, smooth ice cream and the heat of the chocolate sauce. The Chocolate Orange was a lattice of chocolate melted by yet more hot chocolate, which the server theatrically poured. The juxtaposition between the tangy blood orange sorbet and the richness of the chocolate is just perfect.

The chefs in the Hakkasan kitchen are highly trained, whipping up delights on their woks and using their nimble fingers to fold together intricate dumpling shapes. I was offered some quick lessons in Chinese cuisine and let me say this: it’s harder than it looks. My spring rolls were slightly crooked, my dumplings were dumpy, but after following Chef Lai Min Wei’s instructions to the letter, my Crispy Duck Salad didn’t look too bad. And my, did it taste good.

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r evu e COS M ETI C S

Gypsy Juice Five pearls Gypsies are well known for their magical potions. Will Gypsy Juice live up to its name?

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“So I’m back, to the velvet underground Back to the floor, that I love To a room with some lace and paper flowers Back to the gypsy that I was.” Gypsy - Fleetwood Mac

ooking good in Qatar is a job in and of itself. Gone are the days when we rolled out of bed into the shower, smeared some lipgloss on and shot out the door. The harsh environment, the proximity to the desert, the humidity and the glaring sun results in dry skin, cracked heels, dull complexion, limpid and frazzled hair ... a general malaise takes over your wellbeing when you land in the dusty peninsula. It’s hard not to look like a hot mess. Some, namely the well-accessorised locals and housewives, take to hanging out all day in the spa to look effortlessly good. I would recommend a trip to one of Doha’s many spas and salons, with a copy of Sur La Terre under your arm if you have a few hours to spend. If time is precious, or chilling in a spa once a week is just not for you, then let me introduce you to Gypsy Juice. Australian hippy and gypsy nomad, Sommer (who is known by one name only, like Madonna, Cher and Britney) has taken to making lotions and potions after travelling the world for 14 years. Gypsy Juice is rather like a 19th century gypsy practice, but instead of venturing into her caravan and whispering my problems into her ear and getting a dubious tincture in exchange for a silver coin, I send Sommer an email detailing the many issues I have with my skin, and she gets to work. “Each Gypsy Juice blend is specially formulated and made fresh to order for each client, based on skin type and skin needs,” assures Sommer of the PETA-certified and organic brand. So, not only do I have the only Gypsy Juice in the whole of Qatar (probably), but my amber bottles of magic oil were specially formulated for my crappy skin! There is something that makes me quite smug about knowing that no one has the same products as me. And for anyone who has sensitive skin that has a bad reaction to certain products, tailor-made beauty treatments are a boon. But how do each of the products fare? Sommer’s products are made from ingredients you want to eat, like cocoa butter, pomegranate seed oil and macadamia nut oil, and are mostly oilbased. Do not be afraid of oil - it’s good for you. Something that we here in the Middle East have known for a while - oil keeps your skin hydrated, silky smooth and not oily. In fact, if you have oily skin you need beneficial oils to break down and emulsify oxidised oil that your body has secreted.

. sur la terre . revue .

“Gypsy Juice is rather like a 19th century gypsy practice, but instead of venturing into her caravan and whispering my problems into her ear, I send Sommer an email detailing the many issues I have with my skin.”

When it comes to oil, you need to strike a balance and Gypsy Juice will help with that. The Luxurious Cleansing Oil has performed some sort of miracle on my skin. Confession time; I used to have serious acne and only after two rounds on intense drugs did my skin clear up. The only downside was that it dried my skin out completely - at one point I was peeling transparent epidermis from my shoulders. So I went from oily skin and acne to dry but clear skin ... until recently, when the overabundance of oil started to creep back. The cleansing oil that I use every night keeps the moisture in my skin, unlike some face washes, and has evened out the blotchiness. I can see a huge improvement; a definite winner! Curiously, the Moroccan Rose Hair Oil has given my follicles much needed body. I stare at the looking glass in confusion; this is the opposite of what you expect to happen with oil. My hair has never been a lion’s mane, but much to my surprise, my hair is looking a little bouncier. However, my favourite by far is the Antioxidant Face Oil. I’m not going to lie, I didn’t restrict this bad boy to my face, it was massaged all over my body. I find that all sorts of impurities and build-up clog my pores here, probably due to the amazing amount of pollution in the air, and face oil was the perfect antidote to that grime. Using this oil was like getting a facial, except better than any facial I’ve ever had. My skin was glowing after I used it, as if it had been photoshopped. The Essential Vitamins Eye Balm has intense moisturising properties, which is perfect for those who are beginning to develop crow’s feet. A few weeks ago, I noticed a curious shadow under my left eye and on closer inspection, it was the beginning of a wrinkle. Shocked, horrified, aghast at this young age to be plagued by wrinkles, I started carrying the little pot of eye balm around with me. It sits on my desk while I type and in my handbag as I walk; at odd intervals, I open it and apply. It’s the opposite of a nervous tick; whenever the creative block strikes, or I have a moment’s rest between meetings and events, I rub the balm into my skin and so far, the wrinkle has been kept at bay. It’s small enough that it travels well and has already been to Abu Dhabi and Istanbul, and served me well through the various climates. Unlike most eye balms, it appears to be bottomless.

Made from the romantic-sounding Rosa Damascena, the Rose Blossom Mist smells divine and I have stolen a beauty tip from the luminous Liv Tyler; I like to spray my face after applying foundation to give myself a dewy, more natural work. It’s ideal for keeping your skin hydrated in dry weather and if you’re part of the jet set, or a business traveller, then it’s a must-have travel companion. I’ve handed it out to friends at airports and everyone loves the smell; that of real rose petals and not the sickly scent you may be used to in phonier perfume. It takes 4000kg of rose petals to produce 1kg of Rosa Damascena essential oil - so the Rose Blossom Mist is fairly precious. I’m fussy about what goes on my skin because I am allergic to everything. There are so many products discarded in my bathroom because on the second or third application they have brought on a rash, or made my face itch. So when I wax lyrical about a product, you can rest assured, from the bottom of my cynical and distrustful heart, that I really love it. Gypsy Juice is more witch doctor than gypsy and I am a convert to Sommer’s magic touch. www.gypsyjuice.me

. sur la terre . revue .

GlOBetrOtter

Where: kansas city, usa WhAT: fRida kahlo, diego RiveRa and MasteRpieces of ModeRn MeXico WheN: fRoM 25 May to 18 august

Where: national theatRe, london, uk WhAT: othello WheN: fRoM 1 to 30 apRil www.nationaltheatre.org.uk

www.nelson-atkins.org

Where: new yoRk, usa WhAT: the pRoclaiMeRs WheN: 11 apRil www.thebellhouseny.com

global gathEriNgS Global Gatherings is your at-a-glance map of magnificence, directing you to all of the culturally essential, entertaining and luxurious events and happenings that will be taking place across the world (or perhaps, we should say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;sur la terreâ&#x20AC;?) over the coming months.

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

Where: paRis, fRance WhAT: fRench open WheN: fRoM 26 May to 9 June www.frenchopen2013.net

Where: paRis, fRance WhAT: hÄnsel und gRetel WheN: apRil www.operadeparis.fr

Where: vienna WhAT: la BohÈMe WheN: 19 apRil www.wiener-staatsoper.at

Where: Japan WhAT: cheRRy BlossoM festival WheN: fRoM MaRch until apRil www.japantravelinfo.com

Where: kangaRoo island, south austRalia WhAT: seafood feastival WheN: fRoM 25 to 30 apRil www.goodfoodkangarooisland.com

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

GLOB ETROTTER

nightlife

SHOPPING

Artesian

Agent Provocateur

Where: London, UK GPS: 51˚ 31’ 05.06” N, 0˚ 08’ 37.62” W

Where: The Avenues, Kuwait GPS: 29˚ 18’ 07.95” N, 47 ˚ 55’ 49.26” E

This glamorous spot has recently been voted “The World’s Best Bar” and is the perfect place to take someone special to impress them. It has been remarked many a time that this may by London’s most beautiful bar. Located in The Langham Hotel, the epitome of elegance and grace, just off Regent’s Street, it cannot be disputed that Artesian has an understated majesty. The bar’s plush purple leather sofas are perfect for perching and sipping champagne cocktails. Although primarily a rum bar, Artesian’s award-winning cocktail menu will keep you enthralled. Try an “Artesian Classic,” the wonderfully named “Alice in Wonderland” or for the more traditional, a glass of Dom Perignon. www.artesian-bar.co.uk

Confident, sensual, feminine - Agent Provocateur has come a long way since its first boutique in the ever fashionable Soho in London. The British luxury lingerie brand opened in Harvey Nichols in Kuwait’s best and longest mall, The Avenues, at the end of last year. The Spring/ Summer collection is punctuated by bright colours and a saucy attitude, so whether looking for something particular as a young bride-to-be, or a sun worshipper, Agent Provocateur has something for everyone. Browse through the galleried hosiery library, or immerse yourself in the decadent boutique. A little something from Agent Provocateur is guaranteed to put a spring in your step - and his! www.agentprovocateur.com

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

HOTEL

restaurant

Vamizi Island Mozambique

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Where: Vamizi Island, Mozambique GPS: 11˚ 01’ 22.62” S, 40˚ 41’ 26.26” E

Where: London, UK GPS: 51˚ 30’ 08.76” N, 0˚ 09’ 26.01” W

The slender crescent-shaped island of Vamizi is a sanctuary in the Quirimbas Archipelago, and is fast becoming known as the “new Maldives.” Surrounded by kaleidoscopic colours of ocean, guests can sail out to the clear sea on a wooden dhow, enjoying the view of frolicking dolphins and humpback whales. Back on land, the restaurant and bar are the hub of the island. The sophisticated, lantern-lit glamour provides a luxurious and mellow ambience, where you can feast on local produce, like freshly caught fish and barbecues. If this doesn’t relax you enough, then head to the spa, where the best energy and body treatments are available, with natural recipes borrowed from local islanders. www.vamizi.com

Known for putting fun back into food, the mad scientist that is Heston Blumenthal can certainly cook, and his new restaurant in London has foodies across the country cocking an eyebrow with interest. Known for his invention, his daring, his whimsy and dare we say, his genius, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal steers away from gimmicks and lands on gastronomical skill. Try his “Meat Fruit,” chicken liver parfait disguised as fruit using mandarin jelly, or the “Beef Royale” cooked for 72 hours. For dessert, Heston’s signature theatrical flare ensures that ice-cream is never ordinary when it is made at your table, just for you. If you’re feeling more adventurous, the “Brown Bread Ice Cream” with salted butter caramel, pear and syrup is more delicious than it sounds! www.dinnerbyheston.com

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

style confidential

STYLE DRIVE As well as offering you the hottest fashion stories from around the globe, we race into action with the latest trends for men this spring.

Top Gear Getting behind the wheel is seriously stylish business and there is no excuse to let your fashion credentials slip once you are on the road. Make sure your look is as revved-up as your engine this season, and arm yourself with the best equipment to wear behind the wheel, with our five road-worthy style accessories for spring. The gloves

The watch

The bag

The shoes

These ultra sleek lambskin leather driving gloves from Dunhill offer maximum performance on and off road. The perforated fingers offer breathability while the lightly padded palms ensure optimum comfort. The tan leather gives a suave yet nonchalant feel for the ultimate in refined driving attire.

In keeping with the general tan colour scheme that works so well behind the wheel, complementing soft leather interiors, sleek black dashboards and gun-metal exteriors, this Mougin & Piquard x J.Crew timepiece is one with which to be armed.

Yes, a leather holdall is a classic choice when it comes to packing your weekend essentials, but for the new season, luxe backpacks are the way forward. Go for leather, wool or suede styles, such as this leather and canvas option from Givenchy, and inject a little street cool into your driving style.

Originally designed to make distance driving more comfortable, driving shoes today are quite the prerequisite for style-ready journeys, long or short. Simply slip on these immaculate, lightweight and flexible suede Bottega Veneta driving shoes and off you go.

The shades Along with their skin and eye protecting qualities, sunglasses are a fast-track route to statement style and nothing beats a pair of â&#x20AC;&#x153;look at meâ&#x20AC;? shades behind the wheel. This season, it is time to re-embrace the sweatbar and these Outdoorsmen Ray Ban Aviators with sophisticated leather trim and leather sweatbar are just the ticket.

. sur la terre . style confidential .

All accessories available from MrPorter.com

Follow suit When it comes to suits this spring, here are a few simple rules: 1. They are not just for the office 2. The three-piece is the new two-piece 3. Don’t be afraid of colour Take it from the A-list Brad Pitt proves that the three-piece needn’t look stuffy, in this Gucci two button notch lapel black Marseille suit with matching waistcoat and white dress shirt. Channel Brad’s style and wear without a tie for a seriously louche effect and a pair of black rimmed glasses for a cool geek-chic finish.

Brad Pitt (Getty Images)..

Bradley Cooper also opts for a sleek threepiece, this time a navy tuxedo by Salvatore Ferragamo, and keeps his look dapper and refined with a black satin notch lapel and classic bowtie. Patent shoes add a slick finish.

While it may not be quite the trusted tailored suit we know and love, David Guetta proves that smart dressing needn’t be dull. This DSquared jacket gives sharp tailoring a distinct rock ‘n’ roll edge.

Bradley Cooper (Getty Images)..

David Guetta..

Get the look... • Shake things up a bit in the tailoring department and opt for a bold coloured suit for your evening style. This pillar box red suit from Paul Smith at MrPorter.com will transform your off-duty style. Wear with a crisp white shirt and skinny tie. • The latest shirt fad is of the hidden button-down variety, so be sure to invest in one or two for both in the board room and the cocktail lounge. • A floral tie is the ideal new season wardrobe addition that will lift your office attire. This cool pastel shaded tie from Debenhams will add a subtle and sophisticated finish. • Suede shoes are everywhere this season, so be sure to give your suit the refined and style soaked finish it needs. • Invest in at least one three-piece suit and, as well as teaming it together for a suave spring style, why not max out the purchase and mix and match the waistcoat, jacket and trousers with existing wardrobe staples.

. sur la terre . style confidential .

Fashion on full alert Snap to it

The high street hits Paris

Forget searching the internet with a word, searching by image is the way forward, especially when it comes to the business of online fashion shopping. Snap Fashion is a fab fashion app that allows you to take a photo of a product you like and then match it to like products or even find the product itself. The app not only sources suitable products, but will also link you through to the retailer, and with brands including Topshop, My-Wardrobe.com, Gap and ASOS.com on-board, on-the-move shopping just got a whole lot more enticing. www.snapfashion.co.uk

First the designers came to the high street with collaborations such as Stella McCartney for H&M and Kate Moss for Topshop, and now the high street has made it to the designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stomping ground - none other than Paris Fashion Week. For the first time ever, high street giants H&M showed their AW 13 collection at the legendary Paris Fashion Week recently and rocked the MusĂŠe Rodin with its collection of beautifully tailored yet bohemian-infused collection. Celebs including Emma Roberts and Ashley Olsen were front row and with model of the moment Cara Delevigne taking to the catwalk, perhaps we will be seeing more Helen Hunt moments, ie. H&M gowns on the red carpet, in seasons to come. Recessionistas rejoice. The AW 13 collection will be available worldwide and online from September 5th 2013.

Maison of the moment Renowned for its unique and progressive designs for both men and women, Maison Martin Margiela is the ultimate brand for forward thinking fashion lovers and when it comes to menswear, is a must for any man wanting to up his style cred while retaining a cool and louche approach to his wardrobe. The SS 13 collection does not disappoint, offering a unique, contemporary and cool twist on classic designs including sleeveless double breasted jackets, luxe trenches, sleek twopieces and off-duty tailored trousers in crisp white. This is laid-back luxe at its finest. Maison Martin Margiela is also now available closer to home at Saks Fifth Avenue, Dubai.

Fenn Wright Manson is back After being thrust into the spotlight for going bust last year, classic British brand Fenn Wright Manson (akin to Whistles, Hobbs and Jigsaw) is now back and on the up after being snapped up by the daughter of billionaire founder of Matalan Maxine Hargreaves-Adams. With a new design team in place, the brand has relaunched for SS 13 and the new collection is already proving to be a hit with a stunning range of wearable prints, bright separates, chic day dresses and most recently gorgeous broderie anglaise and pastel pieces.

. sur la terre . style confidential .

Designer dabbles A lot goes on behind the scenes to bring us the beauty that is designer fashion. From time to time, designers and big names in the industry step out of their comfort zones into new creative areas to bring us some unique collections and collaborations. We take a look at some of the biggest moves in fashion for the coming seasons. Alexander Wang for Balenciaga

Mary Katrantzou and Current/Elliott

There is a new Creative Director at acclaimed Parisian fashion house Balenciaga - legendary New York-based designer Alexander Wang. All eyes were on the designer who recently showed his first collection for the house at Paris Fashion Week AW 13. The collection was strong, smart, sophisticated and feminine, focusing on minimal modern silhouettes and a distinctly monochrome palette. The benchmark has been set for what looks to be a fine future for both Balenciaga and Mr Wang.

The British Princess of Print Mary Katrantzou has joined forces with denim doyens Current/Elliott to launch her very own denim range for SS 13. And this is no ordinary denim. Each piece features Mary’s trademark prints, which for SS13 come by way of passports and visa stamps. The collection includes dresses, shirts, shorts, tshirts and jeans - all simple yet striking and a refreshing change to classic blue denim.

Rihanna for River Island Hotly tipped as THE fashion collaboration of the season, American superstar Rihanna’s capsule collection for British high street retailers River Island won rave reviews from the fashion jury after its catwalk show at London Fashion Week, and is already selling like hot cakes. “This is something I’ve wanted to do ever since I started loving fashion,” explains Rihanna, who designed the collection as pieces she would want to wear herself. “By teaming up with River Island, I am designing clothes for young women with young, sassy personalities,” she adds. The urban inspired collection features thigh-high slits, double denim, flashes of neon, skimpy cuts and body-hugging designs aplenty.

Katie Grand for Hogan Perfectly in tune with summer’s addiction to anything with a sporty edge, superstylist Katie Grand has teamed up with Italian brand Hogan to design her very own range of fashion trainers. The result - suede and leather hi-tops, which are not only designed to be worn with sportsinspired separates, but feminine, pretty dresses too. The range also includes accessories.

London Fashion Week stars at Debenhams As well as the much revered Designers at Debenhams range, Edition - the younger and edgier designer range, is the one to watch this season. The high street department store has teamed up for a second year running with some of London’s finest rising fashion stars including Jonathan Saunders, Marios Schwab, Preen and Henry Holland.

. sur la terre . style confidential .

i n FO CUS

Spreading

The Wealth Following the announcement of its 2012 financial report, it was revealed that the doyen of luxury car marques, and a good global indicator of the luxury market, has weathered one of the toughest economic storms since the 1930s, with record-breaking panache. Delivering more than 3,500 cars globally, Rolls-Royce posted a 26 percent year-on-year growth in the Middle East alone. Incumbent CEO, Torsten Müller-Ötvös, explains to Sur la Terre how expansion helped steer the luxo-barge through rough economic waters.

our strategy. When you are doing that, you can hopefully be prepared for slowdowns in certain other countries.

uxury cars aren’t immune to economic crises. Even we, as RollsRoyce, have seen that, in tough markets where the economic crisis is ongoing, we have also suffered and have seen a slowdown across all of our business. However, one of our major strategic advantages is that we are globally wellpositioned. When you look back in history, you have never seen the world fall completely apart during an economic crisis, so everything isn’t doom and gloom in every country. For that reason, our whole portfolio of markets is nicely balanced over the world.

In order to maintain that, we are looking to expand further. For example, last year we expanded in the South American market. For us it is an interesting opportunity; yes, when we started, it was low and slow, but my perspective in South America is that business should grow for us. We are constantly looking at any new fields that we previously haven’t explored. Africa is also interesting, with markets like Nigeria, but Rolls-Royce has never had a dealership in Africa. Like others, we are also looking towards new markets in Asia, such as Vietnam, which shows great future potential. There are still some areas that we have not exploited yet, and this is now

. sur la terre . in focus .

It should be noted that, even with territorial expansion, volume is not the answer. This is in complete contradiction of what a luxury brand should do. A luxury brand should look for a profit, that’s how a luxury brand should steer its business. I am more than happy to report that this was our third consecutive record breaking-year. Make no mistake though, the Middle East was quite difficult for us a couple of years ago when the whole crisis hit Dubai. Our bubble exploded, and we felt it immediately in our business. As things began to improve, people were bullish about what was going on; they are now back in the show rooms, and are rewarding themselves for the achievements that their business has earned them. I would say that our business is small, but it is also related to what is really going on in the economy, at least this is our experience. You could even say that Rolls-Royce is a certain indicator for how markets are doing on a global level and, as I said earlier, everything is not gloom and doom and not all countries are falling apart. We have seen fantastic growth in Thailand for instance, and that is just one example. The European market has been the exception rather than the rule. Going forward, looking into 2013, I would say that I am cautiously optimistic. I say cautiously because we all know that Europe is not in proper shape and we have seen, especially in

“Even with territorial expansion, volume is not the answer. This is in complete contradiction of what a luxury brand should do. A luxury brand should look for a profit.”

the southern markets, they have been very, very difficult. They played their part years ago, but now we have also seen that growth has slowed down in some Asian markets and aren’t any longer as strong as they used to be; Japan for instance. So it is very hard to forecast, except for here in the Middle East. I think if the economy doesn’t fall apart here, we should again see good growth in the region. I am also optimistic about the United States, our other big pillar of business. China should come back, it should become better. It was a little bit slower last year than originally expected, but the forecast for the total growth of the Chinese economy this year will be around eight or nine percent. All in all, though, I have a positive outlook. Europe remains lukewarm, but the bonus will be the United States. I am optimistic, now that the election is finished; it puts new stimulus measurements in place to really heat up the economy again, and that should play into our hands. China is going to start reaching a critical mass at some point and the economists are looking towards India and the South American markets as the next big places. India is traditionally an important market for Rolls-Royce, but is not currently the easiest of markets. The long term view, however, is that I definitely see India to be a strong part of our business. These are the so called BRIC markets, which also include Brazil and Russia. Russia is actually a great market for us, it has seen good growth over the last few years and we have even opened a second dealership in Moscow, which has proven to be a good decision. For that reason, the real potential for the luxury car market is in these new territories.

. sur la terre . in focus .

W hat is art? Nature concentrated. - Ho n o r e d e B a l z a c

LOVE HIM And HATEM

u p close a n d per so n a l

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

Hatem Alakeel

Thanks to one man’s aesthetic vision, menswear in the Middle East is no longer lost amidst the churning fashion shuffle. Saudi-born fashion designer Hatem Alakeel has often been called “The Tom Ford of the Middle East,” and it’s easy to see why he deserves the acclaim. Using the classic Khaleeji thobe as his muse, Alakeel has taken the region by storm, weaving a contemporary imagination within the traditional and instantly iconic Arab garb. In an exclusive interview, Sur La Terre speaks with the iconoclast about his “Kanduras” thobes, his new women’s line and his growing renown with some of the biggest celebrities in the world.

Interview conducted by Nagmani

ow did you first get involved within the fashion world? It has always been a dream of mine to work in fashion. Style allows me to experience the joy of life, but it started out as a matter of personal requirement. I could not find traditional garments that had the exquisite quality and finishing that I was looking for, so I decided to design my own thobes. I think that there is a lack of variety when it comes to traditional Middle Eastern menswear. I saw this not as an obstacle, but as a great opportunity to revive the men’s fashion industry by maintaining the sanctity of the traditional style, while fusing it with contemporary touches. What is the best part about being in the fashion industry? Fashion to me means turning visions into reality, and it gives me a lot of pleasure when I see people wearing my clothes. The best part of my job is seeing when my clients feel good about themselves. This is the most important aspect of what I do and makes me strive for the best every day.

Where did you study fashion? I didn’t, actually. I majored in marketing and communications from Northeastern University in Boston. It was more like an intuitive path I needed to find on my own. What made you come back to Saudi Arabia after spending so many years abroad? This is my home, and I felt the opportunities here were endless. It’s still an evolving market with tremendous potential to discover. Not surprisingly, all eyes are on the Middle East at the moment. How important are thobes for the Middle Eastern man? They are the equivalent of suits in places like Saudi Arabia, and are still very much a requirement for formal functions, meetings and weddings. What changes have you brought in your contemporary collection of Kanduras? Better quality with high fashion; simplicity with an edge.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

Fashion to me means turning visions into reality, and it gives me a lot of pleasure when I see people wearing my clothes. concept turns the traditional women’s abaya into a must-have fashion item. The multifaceted, versatile designs are worn fitted or loose, short or long, with or without sleeves. It features structured architectural collars with refined classic lines, dressed up with jewellery or accessorised with a belt. The collection complements the life of the Hatem Alakeel Femme’s lady throughout the day, taking her from impromptu lunches, business/ board meetings, formal receptions and red carpet gala events, to hosting glamorous soirées at home. It introduces a new concept of dressing for today’s women, who desire impeccably polished style. Refinement, timeless grace and elegance have never been easier to achieve. Which accessories are good to wear with thobes? From vests, shoes to even some of my couture jackets, the list is endless. What type of clothes do you feel comfortable working in? Sometimes, I like to don a thobe, whereas other times, I plod along in jeans and a t-shirt. It depends on my mood. Which fashion icons have you been most influenced by in your professional career? Elsa Schiaparelli and Alexander McQueen: they are legends who have radically changed the face of fashion. Which fabrics do you work with mostly? I love mixed Italian cottons that are soft and light.

Which colours do you think fit in well with the style of Kanduras? It’s tricky to judge exactly. A plethora of colours! It usually depends on the fabrics and what kind of a fashion statement you’re trying to make. However, my favourite ones are sky blue, navy, beige and white of course. Do you design other items as well? Yes, I design shirts, suits, children’s clothing and I am proud to say that Hatem Alakeel Femme, my women’s collection, is just about to be launched. Can you tell us the spirit and style behind your Femme collection? Hatem Alakeel Femme expertly blends elegant traditional accents, international avant-garde elements and the spirit of modernity in an innovative approach to womenswear. Its ground-breaking refined

Your brand “Toby by Hatem Alakeel” is doing particularly well. What’s your secret? There are three things that have helped my brand become popular: persistence, passion and authenticity. Another important factor is identifying the signature style by which people will remember and admire you. Finally, let’s finish with the men: who are the male celebrities that have worn your thobes? I’m fortunate to have had Christian Louboutin and many other celebrities wear the “Peace” bracelet, as well as Eva Longoria, Dian Von Furstenberg, Jermaine Jackson; the list goes on. Of course, I was over the moon to see Snoop Lion (aka Snoop Dogg) wear a Toby on stage at his recently-concluded Dubai concert, and also in his latest music video “Here Comes The King”. Thanks to Snoop, the word is out. I hope to have a stronger international presence soon, and will continue changing perception on tradition.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

Different strokes . sur la terre . up close and personal .

eL Seed Driven by a poetic, pre-Islamic proverbial tradition, the Frenchborn, Montreal-based Tunisian artist eL Seed has previously attributed his inspiration from the Mu’allaqat, a series of poems (seven in total), which previously hung on display within the Ka’ba at Mecca, and were originally compiled to inspire a love of the written and spoken word. Whether it is painting a simple message of peace over the decrepit facade of an abandoned building, or writing Qur’anic verses atop Tunisia’s highest minaret at the Jara Mosque, eL Seed is getting his message across to the international community. Master calligraffiti artist eL Seed tells SLT Senior Editor Steven Paugh about his inspirations, aspirations and interpretations in a freshly-painted world.

n your own words, what is calligraffiti? Where did it come from and what made you work within this unique style in the first place? Calligraffiti is a mix of graffiti street styles and techniques, and Arabic calligraphy. It comes from a line of experimental graffiti artists, such as Shuck2, who started blending their graffiti styles with Arabic lettering in the early ‘90s. I work with the style because it is comprised of my two big passions, and I found an artistic style through which I could express my authentic self creatively. It was a very progressive and natural process, everything about it just felt right. How much of it developed out of (or because of) your own identity with your culture? Do you feel, in fact, that graffiti is a natural extension of Arab art, or are you simply adapting it that way using calligraphy? My art has come out of my dual identity. Growing up within the hip hop culture of the ‘90s in Paris, and at the same time being very attached to my roots in North Africa, these two art forms reflected my own sense of belonging. I’m not sure that I can say graffiti is a natural extension of Arab art in general, but I think it speaks to an increasing number of younger generations that are part of an Arab diaspora in the West, and also those young Arabs inspired by graffiti culture, yet striving to find something that speaks to their own cultural markers. It’s sort of beautifully ironic that you are getting flown into another country and paid for an action for which, a few decades ago, most graffiti artists were often arrested. In your opinion, how did the international view of graffiti art change, and how has the Middle East and Arab culture played into that, if at all? The international view of graffiti changed a lot due to some street artists reaching world-wide fame. This created a niche, which then spread into a fad, and now street art and graffiti is a big part of

mainstream art; auctions, collections and so on. I think also the recent [Arab Spring] uprisings changed the way people view street art in North Africa and the MENA region, and also the rest of the world. Street art became fused with positive notions of free expression, citizen engagement and so on. Your name is a play on the French book El Cid, and means “The Master,” but why eL Seed? Is it a play on the English word as well? Seeds of peace, perhaps, or alternatively, seeds of discontent? I first chose the name because of the French and Arabic meaning, but as I moved to North America, the English meaning also began to matter. Now that I paint messages rather than my street name, the English meaning of “seed” has definitely come to the fore. You’ve previously attributed your inspiration to the Mu’allaqat. Can you tell us more about how these pre-Islamic, so-called “hanging poems” so greatly influenced your body of work? The Mu’allaqat and their inspiration were key to my transformation as an artist. Because of the example they set of putting a timeless and worldly message before a name, I was inspired to drop my street name and start painting words and phrases that I felt needed to be made more visible. Once I had read and researched the story of the poems and poets, I knew that was where I wanted my art to lead. How do you respond to what some commentators have called the corporate co-opting of graffiti art? As a means of expression, has graffiti lost a certain amount of its punch and credibility since it is now generally accepted within most societies, up to and including the Middle East? There is even a graffiti wall in Saudi Arabia. Do you think it is changing into a more savoury art form? Is that a good thing?

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

I think that graffiti is what graffiti artists make it to be. Graffiti has its roots of course, but it has always morphed and changed, and had different audiences across the world. Now that it has become a fad in mainstream art circles, there is definitely a notion of losing credibility as a sub-culture marker if you remain a purist. In my mind, art is what you make it; it can be many things at once, for the artist and for the viewer. I think that the visibility of Arabic graffiti especially has given it more power; bringing the concept into broad daylight and, I hope, inspiring a lot more people to catch on to this movement. You also have to realise of course that graffiti art is still only accepted within certain contexts, and therefore if you equate authentic graffiti with vandalism, there is still plenty of space for that! Obviously you were working before the Arab Spring, but how much about your work has been influenced by it, and how important do you believe your particular brand of artistry is to the modern Arab world? My art itself was not influenced much by the uprisings, but the projects I wished to take part in changed a lot. I felt a much stronger connection with Tunisia and had a strong desire to do more projects in my home country. The two projects I did, in Kairouan and my hometown Gabes, were a direct result of my reactions to the uprising in Tunisia and the way Tunisian society has been as a result of these big changes. You have just completed a project in Doha. What was it like working on that piece, and why was it important for you to come here to do it? Have you seen any of the graffiti work in town or regionally? If so, how do you see it developing here? Do you think it should or, to put it more bluntly, have a right to be in the Gulf? Bringing my art here to Qatar allowed me to work on a much bigger scale. The Salwa Road project has been my biggest feat yet in terms of size. People who know my work will notice that each tunnel is a sort of homage to different styles I’ve played with over the years. I think calligraffiti absolutely has a right to be anywhere an artist deems it should be. There are many ways to appreciate art and let it influence your life; why would people in the Gulf not have a right to this? What about your discontents? You haven’t dealt with many detractors from what we can see, but what do you say to those people who grumble about work like yours being “haram” on one end, or “fundamentalist” on the other? I take these comments with a smile and a pinch of salt. People who are extreme on either end are already set in their minds about what is acceptable, or what is unacceptable and I do not have the desire to try and justify myself to people who are not open to different visions. I let people grumble if they want to, it’s their right after all. Of all your pieces, which are the three most important to you and why? One of my first workshops in my hometown, Teboulbou (Gabes) was with young kids from the neighbourhood where I spent all my summers when I was younger. The workshop was such an inspiration to me, and it was the first time I felt I had contributed in a tangible way to my community. The second project I completed in Gabes, on the Jara Mosque minaret was also memorable. The sheer size of it, along with other contributing factors, made it the most challenging project to-date. I will be releasing a documentary shortly on the process of that project. Another important project was my solo exhibit in Paris last year. The preparation for that, along with the concept behind the series really pushed me in a unique way as an artist and made me realise new potential. If you had to paint on one major structure around the world, what would it be, and what would you write there? I would paint on any structure in an obscure environment, in a part of the world that had never been exposed to Arabic script or graffiti writing. This may be hard to find in this day and age – but that would be such a rush. *For more about eL Seed and his art, visit www.elseed-art.com

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

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. sur la terre . accessories .

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. sur la terre . accessories .

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. sur la terre . accessories .

i n m oti o n

McLaren Thrills

With Topless Model

. sur la terre . in motion .

James McCarthy takes to the mountain roads of the UAE in the McLaren MP4-12C Spider and gets caught in a web of indecision over which automotive arachnid he would rather have living in his garage. Pictures: courtesy of Phil McGovern, Awesome Group / McLaren Automotive

. sur la terre . in motion .

“

Marvellous effort, that,” quips my Aussie co-pilot and doyen of Dubai automotive journalism, Damien Reid, as I whip the nimble McLaren into a tight ascending bend on the mountain roads of Hatta in the UAE.

The car’s throttle response and handling is just sublime on roads like this, especially in the active “sport” setting and even more especially as this is the MP4-12C Spider, so I am doing it topless, so to speak, with a wheezing and growling twin-turbo V8 orchestra behind my head. Saying that, of course, for 50 years McLaren’s bread and butter business has been making very fast cars without roofs, so it is hardly a surprise that the job of lopping the top off the MP4-12C coupé has been done so incredibly well. Because, and let’s make no bones about this, McLaren is in direct, fierce competition with the Prancing Horse, both on and off the F1 circuit. As such, it seems that every part of the MP4-12C Spider has been bred to be just a little bit better than its rival, the Ferrari 458 Spider, a car that I was so captivated by when I drove it in Italy, I couldn’t think of another in its class that I would open my wallet long enough to consider purchasing. However, glinting in the sunlit car park of the Hatta Fort Hotel, in a range of colour schemes from the sedate to the screamy, I am starting to wonder, as I look at the Mac, that if it came down to it, whether or not I would be so certain now. The MP4-12C Spider is a good looking car. With similar, but slightly more pronounced, roll-safe buttresses to those on the 458, framing the 616 bhp M838T engine, this topless beauty is far more visually dramatic than the coupé. It almost looks longer. McLaren has even managed to maintain its dihedral door arrangement, a slight poke at the obvious inability of Mercedes to attach its iconic gullwings to the SLS Convertible, perhaps. The big Mac, it seems, is not content with just turning Italian ponies into Tesco burgers, but wants to make mincemeat out of its German rivals, too. But, as the old adage goes, beauty is not just skin deep and, as I press the brake and prod the start button, the powerplant whirrs into life and the car feels alive. As the epic V8 idles, almost growling with its low, rumbling timbre, the high-pitched whine of the twin turbo almost makes the Spider seem as if it is breathing. Even more so when, in neautral, you put your foot to the carpet and let the thing redline before easing off the throttle, allowing the engine to wind itself down. It is almost captivating. Despite driving the coupé a year-or-so ago at Yas Island and loving the way it handled, the power delivery, the clever pre-cog gear changes and all of the science behind the car, I still left feeling it was a bit too clinical; very much a driver’s car, but lacking that skittish playfulness you get with it’s Italian rival. But now, under a flawless Hatta sky, with rangy, sweeping bends and beautifully long straight roads and, perhaps more importantly, without a roof, the McLaren has become something far more visceral. As in its design, the performance of the car is understated; there is none of the usual supercar brutality as you imperceptibly shift up the seven-speed twin-clutch, Graziano-developed SSG gearbox and, under braking, there is little or no fuss and not a single hint of oversteer in tight corners unless, of course, you want there to be. Even then, it feels controlled. This is in no small part down to a raft of F1-inspired electronics and the same double wishbone suspension that can be found in its coupé stablemate, with hydraulically linked adaptive dampers - meaning that even in the harshest of the car’s settings, the ride quality and handling is nigh on perfect. It feels lithe and adroit, too, mostly thanks to its unique carbon “monocell” tub design, which has enabled McLaren to keep the weight-gain of the car to a positively anorexic 40kg.

. sur la terre . in motion .

For that reason, the car remains exciting, but feels utterly unflappable, almost like I am driving in a speciallydesigned “hero-mode,” guaranteed to make me feel like Jenson Button behind the wheel, but without the possibility of imminent death or, sadly, the beautiful girlfriend. Even McLaren can’t engineer those. What it has engineered, though, definitely captures the imagination. While Ferraris, Lamborghinis and Porsches are ubiquitous on our region’s roads, the McLaren, despite the company’s full order book and growing network of dealers, has not yet reached critical mass. Seeing a McLaren at the lights is as rare as spotting a Dutch wink on a nightclub dancefloor. As such, the Spider will always attract attention. As we parked up to admire the work of the British marque and grab a few phone shots of the car for Instagram and Twitter amidst the picture-perfect surroundings, passing cars would slow and honk their horns. Damien and I even briefly became a photo opportunity for two bus loads of Asian tourists who stopped, not to get holiday snaps of the stunning mountain views, but of us and the car - much to the amusement of McLaren PR, Michelle Hogan, who pulled up in the photographer’s Mitsubishi Pajero just to laugh heartily and declare in her endearing Irish brogue that, by the end of the day, we would both be “big in Japan.”

Shrugging off the fan club and Hogan’s jibes, we got back on the road to make the most of our last opportunity to give the Spider a bit of a workout before hitting the speed limited highways on the route back to the hotel. After taking what would ultimately prove to be a wrong turn past Hatta Police Station, I am met with an arrow-straight ribbon of empty tarmac, stretching toward the horizon and shimmering invitingly in the late afternoon sun. Needing no encouragement, I plant my foot in the carpet to revel in the acceleration and noise of that twin-turbo V8. When I do give it the beans, turbo lag is non-existent, there are vast reserves of power just waiting for a lead foot to set them loose, so there is never that embarrassing and trouser-soiling moment where you stutter into a roundabout, gaping with fear and waiting for the power to kick in as four speeding Land Cruisers suddenly appear from the left hand side. Just pedal it, and it goes - all too easily past 200km/h - without even breaking a sweat. Equally, it can run fairly quietly and sedately when required, such as when you need to creep meekly back the way you came, past the police station you just strafed, because of confusion with the manufacturer-supplied routebook... With just the right amount of feedback, the immense road holding and, of course, the V8 choir singing out behind me, I couldn’t think of a better place to be than in the cabin of this car. It is luxuriously well-appointed and you can feel the quality of the manufacturing in nearly every surface, but most importantly it is incredibly comfortable for a set of wheels in this category. Except once you hit the motorway with the roof down. Despite the best efforts of McLaren, on open, twisty mountain roads, the drop-top option is awesome but, on the motorway approach to Dubai, there was considerable buffeting.

. sur la terre . in motion .

In Modena a year ago, I gushed about the 458 Spider’s clever roof mechanism, comparing it to “automotive origami,” but in a spectacular show of engineering nous and, dare I say it, one upmanship, the boffins at McLaren have developed a two-piece retractable hard top that not only allows the 3.8-litre power plant to still show off its wares through a perspex engine cover but can also be operated at speeds up to 30mph; two things its Maranello rival cannot do. Once the roof goes up (in around 17 seconds) on the 12C Spider, you are as cosseted as you would be in the coupé, but that also includes being isolated from the engine’s aural pleasures. To counter this, a simple rear glass window that doubles as a wind deflector and can be lowered at the touch of a button. Do so when the roof is up and the full spectrum of engine noise, whooshing turbos and hissing waste gates fills the cabin to offer all the sonic entertainment but without the unsolicited exfoliating facial provided by the dusty desert wind. The company has also developed a somewhat gimmicky “Intake Sound Generator,” which enhances the engine noise in the cabin to levels that can be set by the driver, with nuances further based on the three driving modes; “normal,” “sport” and “track.” There are other tweaks and additions from the coupé, too, such as new cosmetic options, including a greater choice of wheel designs, some flashy new colour schemes and an entirely new line of interior materials, as well as some more technical improvements - chief among which is a newly remapped performance package which, among other things, squeezes the power of an additional 25 Woking-bred ponies out of the engine and offers even sharper responsiveness from the gearbox. The same package is being rolled out in the 2013 iteration of the coupé and, remarkably, for free to existing customers whose cars predate the update. It is this almost fanatical drive for perfection and customer service that could win over those in the market for a rear-mid-engined sportscar, who will now be facing a headache when it comes to choosing between this and the Ferrari. After spending a day in the company of both the Mac and the 458, I sympathise, because if someone had asked me 12-months ago which car in this class I would sell my right kidney to afford, with scalpel in hand, I would have already chosen the Rosso Corsa paintwork and purchased the branded-PUMA driving shoes. But, because the MP4-12C Spider makes such a compelling argument for buying British and offers such a completely different, yet no less exciting, driving experience, I am left wondering: would I get enough for both cars if I just sold my kidneys as a matching pair?

. sur la terre . in motion .

tr en ds confidential

A WINNING

Wardrobe Sophie Jones-Cooper finally admits to embracing the sports luxe trend that is racing ahead in spring’s new season trend-off.

rom our childhood days of purposefully forgetting our gym kit in order to “bunking off” PE class, to our adult self-torture of hitting the gym five times a week in order to attain a celebrity status bod, sport brings with it a hefty weight to our otherwise luxurious lifestyles of convenience. But sport shouldn’t be a burden. It should be a pleasure, a jolly pastime we look forward to indulging in when we’re off-duty; not only as a way to keep fit, but to socialise and get our endorphins flowing. When it comes to partaking in sport or exercise, it is not just the physical endurance element that is often the crucial off-putting factor, but the wardrobe attire that is required for getting involved. Skin tight lycra, flesh-baring crop tops, sweat-exposing jersey and neon lace-up shoes. As kids, we had no choice but to succumb to awful Airtex t-shirts and scrawny, scratchy gym pants, and still today, getting dressed for sport doesn’t generally rate highly on the pros and cons of exerting oneself in the physical arena. Take tennis for example, unless you have the legs of Anna Kournikova, who wants to bounce around the astroturf chasing a ball in an a-line white mini skirt? And what about swimming? Nobody chooses to parade around in a brightly coloured lycra one-piece. Wearing your skimpy Missoni bikini to the local swimming baths isn’t really the done thing, and the gorgeous cut-out one piece is more accustomed to St Tropez lounging than Middle Eastern indoor lengths. Sports bras are another great example; while they do the job very well, they are certainly not the most flattering of over-the-shoulder boulder holders. So if sportswear is so off-putting when we are actually partaking in sport, why then has it become such a mainstream phenomenon in our everyday and even evening wear wardrobes? In the past few seasons, the trend for sports luxe has spiraled out of control and is taking over the catwalks and high streets. Not only are Jessica Ennis and Victoria Pendleton sporting sleek lines and sporty silhouettes, but everyone from Victoria Beckham to the Duchess of Cambridge is channeling the sports luxe vibe. It is always a shrinking violet moment for me, the minute I read the words “sport inspired” in the show notes at Fashion Week, or see an emaciated model making her way down the catwalk in a laser-cut Airtex crop top, retro gym pants and hi tops. But after the last few seasons of sports luxe

. sur la terre . trends confidential .

Salvatore Ferragamo ..

Balenciaga ..

dominating the catwalks and bamboozling its way into our day-to-day wardrobes, I have had to take a step back and look at its continued rise to mainstream popularity. In doing so, I have come to realise that luxe sportswear is far from our feared PE days, and it neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out with the feminine dresses and in with an array of street-cool separates... Luxe sportswear is actually a very user-friendly trend, and this spring, more than ever before, it takes on an utterly versatile wearability and one that, while I surprise myself in saying so, I will surely be adopting. So what changed? Either I have grown up in the past few seasons, or the trend has. I think, perhaps, it is a mix of both. It has taken several seasons of the fashion heavyweights basking in the beauty of sport-inspired wares for me to truly believe that I, and everyday women around the world can look sophisticated, stylish and feminine in hi-tech stripes and athletic silhouettes. But as well as my softening to the style, the trend itself has also matured. A few seasons back, mesh tops and square boxy shapes were all the rage, but for me, this didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t offer a feminine enough aesthetic. Sporty was hard-edged and with a heavy street influence, but for the new season ahead, sporty-inspired separates and even dresses have a distinctly feminine edge, as well as a powerful and sleek minimalist feel. So it is time for me to up my game and embrace this trend in its splendour. To get the ball rolling (pardon the pun), an easy way to bring this mighty trend into our wardrobes is with minimal whites. Inspired by tennis separates, cricket whites and the general pure form of white that is the basis for many sporting palettes, crisp, sharp whites are a great way to adopt a sporty feel into your spring wardrobe. Go for high-tech fabrics, sculpted shapes and functional detailing. A white leather jacket teamed with louche wide-legged white pants or A-line culottes brings a fresh and effortless style, while a simple white shift dress oozes a subtle

Lanvin ..

. sur la terre . trends confidential .

femininity, as well as maintaining a utilitarian and functional approach to dressing. Look for textured white fabrics to add depth and tone to your whites, but be sure to keep lines cleanly minimal and shapes structured and sharp. Stella McCartney, ChloĂŠ and Givenchy all adopted this less is more approach to their minimal whites. Stripes are a simple way to bring in an added dimension to crisp whites while still retaining the sporty feel, and they couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be more in the spotlight this season. Proenza Schouler used black stripes on skirts and jackets as well as top to bottom vertical zips on high neck A-line dresses. The result, a feminine yet sporty dress that is defined by simplicity and sophistication. Bold, bright primary colour was another favourite amongst the designers on the new season catwalks and adds a very simple and basic sporty feel. Pillar box red and cobalt blue are two great hues to combine with white

Saint Laurent .

ChloĂŠ..

Paul Smith ..

. sur la terre . trends confidential .

(and black). Think football colours and green flash for your inspiration and don’t be afraid of head-to-toe colour for a grown-up take on basic primaries. Neon is also taking centre stage this season and adds the desired injection of hi-tech sporting prowess. Colour blocks of fluorescent green and yellow add a reflective flash, and if worn in moderation with black and white or simply through your accessories, can look beautifully serene and refined. For those off-duty moments, when your style calls for a “mufty day” approach, a simple sweatshirt and jeans or sweater dress can look a million dollars. This season, there has never been a better time to rock the sweater style. If you want to really up the style stakes then be sure to invest in some slogan or novelty tees and sweatshirts. Since Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took over at Kenzo a few seasons back, their tiger sweatshirt has garnered somewhat of a cult following and put novelty tees back on the map. Don’t worry, such sweaters are not just for the cool kids. Wear with a pair of skinny jeans and sky-high heels for added glamour, or city shorts and ballet flats for pared-down chic. If you simply want to add a few sporty inspired separates into your existing wardrobe, go for a chic and sleek biker jacket, a Breton t-shirt, a classic white or black and white shift dress, a primary coloured jumpsuit or a soft luxe white leather jacket. Even a blazer, silk singlet and a pair of city shorts hones in on the trend without feeling too overly athletic. When it comes to accessories, don’t be afraid to bring in some femininity and texture, with stacked bangles, chain bracelets and bold statement cuffs. Go for cool and sleek zero-detail compact clutch bags or bold oversized totes and holdalls.

Kenzo ..

Osman ..

Celine ..

Givenchy ..

It wouldn’t be fair to round up my newfound passion for spring’s sports luxe trend without mentioning the crop top. Yes, the crop top is back with a vengeance, much to my dismay. Chloé, Balmain, JW Anderson, Miu Miu, Victoria Beckham and Balenciaga all embraced this mid-riff exposing separate. If you do choose to embrace this look, and for those without the Jessica Ennis six-pack, there is a saving grace. Wear with a sheer layer over the top or minimise the flesh exposure by teaming with a high waist and a loose-fitting blazer. All in all, sports luxe is more than approachable when is comes to daywear this season. Just steer clear of the gold lame catsuit. Medal inspired gold, silver and bronze are best left to sparkle and shine where they do best glamorous metallics, rather than daytime or off-duty wares. Kick off your new season with sculptured athletic silhouettes, crisp whites, blocks of bold colour, sleek stripes, high-tech fabrics and sheer layers.

. sur la terre . trends confidential .

LO O K BO O K

Thorn in a rose garden

Florals are in full bloom this summer, and vivid hues, fierce designs and dark edges give this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s florals a tough luxe appeal.

CATWALK MOMENT:

DRESS Pied a Terre at House of Fraser, DRESS Very.co.uk, SHOES Dolce & Gabbana at Net-a-Porter, EARRINGS Asos.com, SUNGLASSES Urban Outfitters, NECKLACE Lanvin at Net-a-Porter.com, TOP River Island, BLOUSE Limited by Marks & Spencer, TOP Rocha. by John Rocha at Debenhams, SCARF H&M, CLUTCH Alexander McQueen at Net-a-Porter.com

. sur la terre . look book .

Marni combines textures to give their florals added dimension while Emilio Pucci goes for a more geometric and Asian approach to summer blooms. Team wild florals with geometric patterns and Asian inspired prints.

TOP TIP:

THE LINE UP Select your stripe from summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wanted suspects, which include everything from thin and vertical to bold and wide. CARDIGAN Crew Clothing, JUMPER Autograph at Marks and Spencer, SHIRT Marni at MrPorter.com, SWEATER Marc by Marc Jacobs at MrPorter.com, TSHIRT River Island, TSHIRT Next, TSHIRT J. Crew at MrPorter.com, POLO SHIRT Etro at MrPorter.com, RUGBY SHIRT Crew Clothing, SHORTS H&M, SWIM SHORTS House of Fraser, SHOES Dolce & Gabbana at MrPorter.com, HAT Marks & Spencer.

TOP TIP: If stripes are too OTT for your main wardrobe, introduce them in your accessories. A pair of stripey shoes or a stripy belt will add a quirky dose of character.

. sur la terre . look book .

T he earth laughs in flowers . - R a l p h Wa l d o E m e r s o n

fe at u r e

Haute Voiture Damien Reid watches the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest luxury car brands buck the economic trend with their latest Spring Collection at a depression-busting 83rd Geneva Motor Show. Pictures courtesy of Phil McGovern, Awesome Group / Getty Images

Lamborghiniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Veneno..

. sur la terre . feature .

The new hybrid LaFerrari..

or the past decade or so, legislators, doomsday profits and those who like to wear propellers on their caps have been predicting the demise of extravagant luxury and supercars.

The need to cut CO2 emissions, improve fuel economy and reduce the carbon footprint, has pushed the industry into developing some radical feel-good technology like hybrid systems, hydrogen-compatible engines and zero emission cars. Which is great, except they’re boring and, even according to one senior industry insider I spoke to at this year’s Geneva auto show, it’s “not what anyone really wants.” Now, if you grab all that goodness and strap it to a 700bhp or 800bhp multi-turbocharged V8 or V12 supercar then you’ve got something that will both keep the propeller heads and legislators at bay, yet still deliver a product that’s good enough to hang on a teenage boy’s bedroom wall.

its 6.3-litre V12 at 9250rpm and a further 163bhp from its electric motor. And yet, how many reports also cited that this electric engine helps it to produce 50 percent fewer emissions than the Enzo it replaces? Geneva represented a new era of supercars spearheaded by the LaFerrari, which has the most powerful engine ever developed by Ferrari for the road while the equally exciting McLaren P1 also drew Hollywood star-style crowds to its stand. Despite an abundance of small, eco-friendly bubble cars on display that escape emission taxes and city congestion charges, the McLaren and Ferrari stands were the ones that needed bouncers manning a velvet rope across the entrance and holding a guest list. And this was on an invite-only media and industry day! After standing in line for nearly an hour and trying to talk my way past the doorman on the Ferrari stand, a tap on the shoulder and a discreet nod from the bouncer gave me the allclear to sneak on board. It would have been easier to shoulder charge my way into an Oscar’s night after-party at the Viper Room in West Hollywood, but things weren’t far different over at McLaren. Just 20 minutes was all it took to get the approval to wander around the P1 and pretend I knew people. According to Ferrari president, Luca di Montezemolo, they have already taken 700 paid deposits from invited existing owners for the LaFerrari. The problem is that they are only building 499 units, making it “tough for us to make the right choice” as to who will eventually get to own one. Owners will visit the factory for a seat fitting, where it will be fixed to offer an F1-like driving position developed by Fernando Alonso and Felipe Massa with an adjustable steering column and pedal box. The factory claims it will exceed 350km/h and take less than three seconds to get from zero to 100km/h.

Welcome to the 83rd edition of the Geneva International Motor Show, where two of the headline supercars were so awesomely powerful and drop dead gorgeous that everyone forgot they were also green and clean.

Unlike most hybrids, which use the electric motor to substitute the petrol engine around the city, the Ferrari uses an F1-developed KERS system, which means it won’t run on electric power only. The company says that it doesn’t fit the mandate for a worthy Enzo successor but it hasn’t ruled out electric-only drive in future Ferraris like the FF and California.

For example, the undisputed star of the show, the Ferrari LaFerrari develops 800bhp from

British rival, McLaren, has gone down a similar path with the P1 that uses a heavily modified version of the 3.8-litre, twin-turbo V8 borrowed from the 12C.

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Additionally, there’s a single electric motor, which gives a further 176bhp just in case the 727bhp provided by the petrol engine doesn’t quite give you the edge you need. McLaren has made its Formula One connection patently clear with the P1 by incorporating two modern innovations that were developed for F1 and put them on the road. F1 developed a concept called the Drag Reduction System (DRS) which is a button the driver presses to open the rear wing for added speed on straights. During a Grand Prix, this added speed is the equivalent to around 65bhp and it’s been adopted for road car use for the first time with the P1. On the road car, pushing the DRS button will reduce the rear wing angle by 23 degrees in just half a second, while a second button on the wheel operates IPAS, which is McLaren-speak for KERS. This is the same use of hybrid technology as used on the LaFerrari and when you press the button on the McLaren it releases the 176bhp from the electric motor in one clean surge. This should be good enough to get it from zero to 100km/h in under three seconds and 200km/h in just over six seconds on its way to an electronically governed 350km/h, but only 375 units will be built. Not to be outdone, especially as they ramp up for their 50th anniversary celebrations, Lamborghini came out fighting with a challenger that may not be the equal in terms of its technological advancement, but delivers a knock out punch for rarity and quite literally, show-stopping looks. Just three units of the US$4.4 million Lamborghini Veneno were built for sale and have all been sold with a fourth - the Geneva show car - remaining with the factory. Each of the three 750bhp, 6.5-litre V12 monsters will be painted in either red, white or green to represent the Italian colours and according to hushed whispers, two will go to the United States with the third finding a home in the Middle East, most likely in Saudi Arabia.

Alfa Romeo 4C..

Made entirely from carbon fibre and weighing in at just 1,450kg, which is 125kg lighter than the Aventador, the company claims it accelerates from zero to 100kmh in just 2.8 seconds and has a 355kmh top end. Somewhere in between this hypercar craziness and the responsible push for eco-friendly transport, there needed to be common ground, and as expected, there was a solution in the form of the Alfa Romeo 4C. With styling that lies somewhere between a Lotus Elise and a Ferrari 458 Italia, the mid-engined, rear-wheel drive baby Alfa is being built in Maserati’s Modena plant and will also spearhead the company’s return to the US market. The limited build 4C immediately brings to mind some of the traditional, iconic models from the company’s past including the 33 Stradale that still gains recognition 45 years later. Previewed as a concept at the 2011 Geneva show, the 4C uses a carbon fibre monocoque tub that weighs 65kg giving it a total weight of just 850kg and is powered by a 237bhp, 1742cc, turbo-charged engine, which will be

The LaFerrari..

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good enough for 4.5 seconds to 100kmh and a 250kmh limited top speed. Though not set in concrete, this scaled-down supercar is almost certainly confirmed for the Middle East, either towards the end of the year or in early 2014 with pricing of around $64,000. However, stepping away from the fantasy of LaFerrari and the absurd Lamborghini Veneno, of more significance to the well-heeled Middle Eastern customer was the metal sitting on the Bentley stand. In marked contrast to last year’s Geneva show, when the EXP 9 F concept SUV made headlines around the world and was touted as the next big thing for the Middle East, the Flying Spur reveal was subdued by comparison, but more meaningful. Bentley saloons are big news in the Gulf, particularly Saudi Arabia, so while the Mulsanne caters for the extreme high end, the Flying Spur remains the cornerstone of Bentley’s range here. With that, one of the key interior features in the 2013 Flying Spur was developed largely with the Middle East in mind.

McLaren’s P1..

two of the headline supercars were so awesomely powerful and drop dead gorgeous that everyone forgot they were also green and clean.

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Lamborghiniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s limited edition Veneno..

Rear seat passengers can now download a smartphone app or eject the phone-like device from the centre console cradle to remotely alter the climate control settings, seat cooling functions, sat nav and multimedia systems. It is a system that was developed by Bentley rather than borrowed from another arm of the VW empire and is partly the result of discussions with local customers, particularly women in Saudi Arabia, who can now control the systems on their own without having to ask the chauffeur.

storage capacity. Two LCD screens are installed in the backs of the front seat while top-loading multimedia players sit in pockets beneath.

The new Flying Spur also has its own WiFi connectivity, allowing portable devices, laptops and tablet computers to connect to the internet, and includes 64Gb of internal

With 800Nm of torque on tap, coupled to an eight-speed ZF transmission and despite weighing in at 2,475kg, the

The Rolls-Royce Wraith..

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A V8 Flying Spur will follow later, but, in the meantime, the 6-litre W12 cylinder engine is standard. Developing 616bhp, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the most powerful four-door model in the range.

Bentley Flying Spur..

Spur has a 14 percent better power-to-weight ratio over the old model, allowing it get from zero to 100km/h in 4.3 seconds on its way to a terminal speed of 322km/h. Unlike the previous Flying Spur, which looked like a four-door version of the Continental GT, this 2013 model distinguishes itself from the Coupé with fresh lines that take in a beefy “Coke-bottle” hip, similar to the Mulsanne and a more distinctive tail. Meanwhile, the interior has also come in for a makeover to differentiate it from the Conti and the result is that rear seat passengers get even more legroom, which makes it one of the most spacious cars on the market. However, while Bentley was going bigger and targeting the chauffeured markets of China and the Middle East, old foe Rolls-Royce was heading in the opposite direction by releasing its most driver-focused car in several decades. The Wraith is a fastback coupé based on the Ghost and is the first two-door coupé from Rolls-Royce in over 30 years as well as the most powerful car in its range. Its twin-turbo, V12 engine has picked up an additional 61bhp over the Ghost and now dumps 624bhp through an eight-speed auto which gives it the zing to get to 100km/h in 4.4 seconds. To keep its velvety ride, Rolls-Royce has employed clever technology to reduce the number of gear changes by being able to read the conditions ahead using GPS data. Called “Satellite Aided Transmission,” it uses GPS info to anticipate a driver’s next move based on location and the driving style. Corners, highways, roundabouts and junctions are all anticipated in advance. While local pricing is yet to be announced, it will retail for around $320,000 in Europe.

Bentley Flying Spur..

About Damien Damien began writing motorsport columns and assisting with car tests for major motoring magazines and newspapers even before he left school at the age of 15. He was the youngest fulltime motoring editor and Formula 1 correspondent of a national broadsheet newspaper, News Corp’s, The Australian, at age 18. He held this position for six years before going freelance to establish the public affairs division of a major car manufacturer in Australia and New Zealand. Returning to journalism at age 30, he has travelled the world covering motoring and motor racing at all levels and, in 2005, settled in Dubai to spearhead the Middle East editions of Autocar and F1 Racing magazines. He is currently a freelance contributor to radio, TV, print media and various websites across the Middle East, South East Asia, Australia, the United States and Europe.

Yep, there were Honda Accords and VW Golfs galore, but Geneva is about fantasy becoming reality and, for all of the petrolheads out there, boy, did it get real.

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fa s h i o n

The art of dressing Embrace your creative side with this season’s array of prints and add an edge to your look with a touch of leather. Photographed by Marc Ninghetto Styled by Mélanie Hearnden Hair & make-up by Julie Monot Models Sylvia Dimitrova and Will Glass from Charlotte Fischer Models

She wears: Velvet dress by Bottega Veneta, brocade gold bolero by Lanvin, Burakuyan ankle boots from La Muse, African ruby, quartz and black diamond ring from Ponti Joaillier and “Harmonie” earrings by Caspita. He wears: Cashmere, zibeline and lambswool sweater by Hermès, flannel trousers by Bally, shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo and LM1 watch by MB&F Background artwork: Triptyque by Rafael Lozano Hemmer.

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Reversible lambskin jacket by Hermès, Windsor jumper from Globus, APC jeans from l’Adresse, derby calfskin shoes by Hermès and “Dandy Grande Date” watch by Chaumet. Opposite page: N°21 tunic from Sab’s, blue foal fur belt by Gérard Darel from Globus, Just Cavalli trousers from Bon Génie, lace and velvet shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo and ring by Vhernier. Background artwork: Installation De Solysombras by Daniel Orson Ybarra

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Chiffon and leather blouse by GĂŠrard Darel from Globus, cardigan by Vicedomini, leather trousers by Helmut Lang from the Drake Store, shoes by Chanel, ring and earrings by Vhernier.

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Pucci top from the Drake Store, trousers with leather detail by Balenciaga from Bon Génie, ankle boots by Louboutin and “Josephine” grey gold and diamond necklace by Chaumet.

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A rtopi a

Oh, Qanada! The State of Qatar and McGill University host an education in the diversity of Islamic arts.

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At first glance, the casual observer may not immediately see a definitive link between Qatar and Canada, but it is a bond that has quietly been growing ever stronger, particularly over the past few years. Admittedly, this partnership has, at least in the public eye, taken the form of business ventures, with Qatar Airways’ opening of direct flights between Doha and Montreal being the paramount and most well-known example. However, as formerly Doha-based, currently Montreal-bound Senior Editor Steven Paugh recently discovered during his straddle between the countries, Qatar and Canada’s diplomatic ties are growing both ever more intimate and intricate, with a keener focus on the mutual sharing and appreciation of each other’s culture, showcasing Qatar’s increasingly ubiquitous position on the global stage as a discriminating international purveyor of Arab arts and culture to the world.

t came as something of a surprise to us both when my wife, herself once a curator at Doha’s own Museum of Islamic Art, found out a year ago that the State of Qatar would begin providing significant funding to the Institute of Islamic Studies at McGill University, where she now studies as a PhD student. Of course, this was more a shock of coincidence than one of principle. It is, after all, public knowledge that the Gulf state has been expanding its scope within the arts community, not only within its own borders (as you will see in the other arts-driven projects we highlight within this very issue) but also internationally. Still, while we remarked on our shared orbit with international giants and made jokes that centred around, “You can take the expat away from Doha, but you can’t take Doha away from the expat,” we quietly wondered why, when and how this union came to its most fortuitous fruition. Perhaps surprisingly, before 2011, there had never been a Qatari ambassador to The Great White North. Being that both nations carry considerable cache and international clout, however, that was bound to change. And so it did in the spring of that year, when His Excellency Salem Al-Shafi was honoured with the inaugural appointment. Ambassador AlShafi quickly proved that he is not the kind of man to sit on his laurels. “Upon my arrival here in Canada,” the ambassador told me in an exclusive Sur la Terre interview, “I immediately embarked on a challenging and exciting journey of cementing the bridges that connect the people of Qatar

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with the people of Canada, which involved following up on the social, economic, political and educational aspects of the friendly relationship between the two countries.” Indeed, the interaction between Qatar, Canada and their peoples has been and remains uniquely strong. According to the ambassador, there are more than 6,000 Canadians currently living or working in Qatar, coupled with an impressive group of leading institutions and organisations, from the College of the North Atlantic and the University of Calgary School of Nursing to the Qatar Gas LNG tankers, which deliver natural gas to Canada through Repsol to St. John’s Canaport terminal in New Brunswick. Of course, this is a partnership that is built on more than just business. “I believe,” said the ambassador, “that the similarities we Qataris share with our Canadian friends outnumber any differences. Both our people have close aspirations towards progress and prosperity, and share a strong commitment towards human rights, tolerance, multiculturalism and towards assisting other nations in their time of need. “These factors, joined by a strong determination of both governments to strengthen bilateral relations and further coordinate international efforts to promote peace and stability around the world, have been constantly at the core of the relations between Qatar and Canada.”

Powerful words befitting his office, perhaps, but ones that he has very quickly proven to be more than just lip service. Within a year of his appointment, on March 26, 2012, the very first Qatari Ambassador to Canada proved that bilateral commitment by offering, on behalf of his government, McGill’s Institute of Islamic Studies a generous funding package of CAD $1.25 million. But the question remains ... why McGill? It begins, as all studies do, with a perspective that comes grounded in history. In other words, this eventual partnership was simply a matter of time ... and inevitability. McGill’s prestigious Institute of Islamic Studies (ISL) was first founded in 1952 as an academic entity dedicated to the study and applied understanding of Islamic culture throughout history. By

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integrating a diverse student body and faculty of both Muslims and non-Muslims, the Institute has, throughout its existence, reached out to the world in a way almost identical to that which the ambassador spoke of earlier. Now in its 60th year, it continues to bridge the divide between cultures by affording not only its students, but the entire population of its mother city, Montreal, with a host of programmes, events and otherwise academic and cultural pursuits. These showcase not a “clash” of civilisations - a terribly divisive turn of phrase - but rather an appreciation, a reconciling of one within the other. Such an academic body with its storied lineage proved too enticing a model for the ambassador and his home nation to pass up: “In Qatar, we believe in the integration of cultures and civilisations and reject the concepts of their conflict. We believe that Islam has represented itself in world history as a religion,

culture and civilisation that has positively contributed towards our modern world and its heritage. Hence, supporting the McGill Institute’s programmes and events that study a wide spectrum of issues associated with Islam, whether in terms of theology, languages, philosophy, science, astronomy, arts or calligraphy, allow further understanding of Islam, its past and its continuous contributions, but also contribute towards interfaith dialogue, which my country strongly advocates. “McGill University’s Institute of Islamic Studies enjoys a worldwide recognition,” the ambassador continued, “and as one of the leading institutes in the field of Islamic studies, it was an inevitable attraction, to which the Government of Qatar envisioned the merits of providing a contribution to support the institute, as part of its numerous international contributions that are provided annually in support of science and research around the globe.” So it was, in his words, that a shared vision of knowledge and education would provide the key to meeting the challenges of a changing world and contribute to the well-being and coexistence of peoples, and the two formidable world players entered into an equally robust and mutually-beneficial partnership. But what exactly would that union yield?

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Hard-lined skeptics might immediately jump to the argument that such funding comes with its own price; a caveat, perhaps, that the Institute would be forced to garner its funding-driven events and lectures calendar with lessons solely based on the Gulf. In actual fact, however, the allocation has funded an impressively diverse set of events, which thus far have succeeded in fostering a widely-sweeping, yet cohesive appreciation of Islam’s vast cultural breadth. The first events to benefit from the State of Qatar’s grant centred around the sound of Islam. Invited to the Institute as a visiting Musician-in-Residence for 10 days in October 2012, Dr. A.J. Racy not only brought a background as a distinguished performer and composer renowned on the world stage, but also with academic chops as the Professor of Ethnomusicology at the University of California at Los Angeles (UCLA). His free workshops, concert and successful public lecture, “Art and Ecstasy in Arab Music,” culminated in a celebration of both sound and substance. Joined by Souhail Kaspar, a famed percussionist best known for recording the song “Desert Rose” with Sting, Dr. Racy delighted all in attendance with a symphony of history, culture and of course, the resounding tonal notes that so often thread them together.

Further showing the diversity inherent in the funded programmes, the Institute also presented another night of music, this hosted by the Ambassador of the Republic of Indonesia, HE Dienne H. Moehario, who, with the Schulich School of Music, held a workshop, reception and concert, all of which celebrated the 60th anniversary of Indonesia-Canada diplomatic relations. Replete with a company of dancers and musicians from the Indonesian Institute of Art, Yogyakarta, and the Indonesian Gondang Orchestra, this free-to-the-public series was a waltz through time and culture that simply would not have been possible without Qatar’s funding. There followed a series of events that verged on the slightly more academic, yet no less fascinating and beautiful. Curated by Adam Gacek, former Head of the Islamic Studies Library and Research Assistant, RASI Project. “Strokes and Hairlines: Elegant Writing and its Place in Muslim Book Culture” is an intriguing and pervasive exhibition that taps into the rich manuscript collections of the McGill Library. Analysing both literally and thematically the calligraphic sweep of influence enjoyed by the Arabic language’s written aesthetic, which stretched from the Maghreb to India, the exhibit includes everything from parchment from Qur’ans produced in the early Abbasid period (9-10 centuries) to the delicate writing implements used by its practitioners. This celebration of the written word was further focused with some of Islam’s most gorgeous and long-lasting artistry: calligraphy. The Institute first welcomed famed Turkish master calligrapher, Dr. Hilal Kazan, whose book, Female Calligraphers Past and Present and Art Patronage in Ottoman Court in the 16th Century, reshaped the modern idea of women’s

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involvement within the historical context of calligraphy. Dr. Kazan was then followed by a familiar face to regular Sur la Terre readers. A long-time, dear friend of our humble publication and regular visitor to Doha, the renowned master of Arabic calligraphy and current lecturer on Arabic calligraphy at the Islamic College in Zhen Zhou, China and the Zaytuna Institute in California, Haji Noor Deen Mi Guang Jiang first appeared within the pages of SLT in June 2009, where he spoke with us at length about the history of Islam, Arabic calligraphy and the culture of both within his homeland of China. We were fortunate enough to have a special piece commissioned for the article, and as anyone in Sur la Terre Towers will tell you, his unique style, which mixes traditional Chinese calligraphy with that of the Arab world, is nothing short of stunning, and still finds itself in a hallowed position on our walls. His lecture via the Institute of Islamic Studies at McGill, Sini Calligraphy - “Arabic Calligraphy in the Chinese Tradition”, was nothing short of engrossing, a captivation matched only by his magnetic personality and gentle effervescence. Having attended several of these events myself, I can assure both you and His Excellency the Ambassador himself that the funding provided by the State of Qatar to institutions such as this is being spent with excellent, enthusiastic and elucidatory purpose. It is good to know that while other nations consolidate their declining wealth by cutting programmes like that which McGill’s Institute enjoys, Qatar still stands as a beacon, lighting the way to a world of continuing cultural appreciation, both domestically and internationally.

A Few More Questions with the first Qatari Ambassador to Canada, His Excellency Salem Al-Shafi Obviously Qatar has invested millions in creating an arts culture within its own borders, but why is it important for the state to establish that presence within the arts scene outside of the country itself? Qatar’s role and contributions are not confined to its borders, as my government has constantly adopted policies of strong engagement within the international community, whether in terms of mediation, conflict resolution or providing humanitarian assistance and participating in relief efforts. Furthermore, Qatar has continuously provided generous contributions globally to support research and education, as well as undertaking genuine initiatives such as the most recent “Educate A Child,” which was introduced last November by HH Sheikha Moza, Consort of His Highness the Emir of Qatar, and was aimed towards assisting 61 million children around the world who are missing out on basic education. What was it like being named the first ambassador from Qatar to Canada? That must have been a daunting undertaking. It was a great honour to be entrusted with this task and a privilege to have the opportunity to serve Qatar in a country as beautiful and important as Canada. Yet, much has to be achieved to grasp the possibilities and invest in the wide opportunities that would bring the two countries closer together. However, I have been fortunate to receive candid support from the Government and people of Canada towards facilitating my mission. Finally, and on a more personal note, what do you like best about Canada, and what do you miss most about home? I would say the friendly warm Canadians first, and secondly, the lovely scenery that this country provides from its east to its west shores. Though, I wouldn’t mind a milder winter next year. As for home, once you leave it, you miss every single detail that reminds you of it.

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Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair . - Khalil Gibran

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ho r izo n s

Turkish Delights SLTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Laura Hamilton visits Turkey during the winter months and discovers what Istanbul, Bursa and UludaÄ&#x; have to offer in terms of culture, luxury and winter sports.

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“Istanbul was Constantinople Now it’s Istanbul, not Constantinople Been a long time gone, Constantinople Now it’s Turkish delight on a moonlit night.” Istanbul Not Constantinople - They Might Be Giants

traddling both East and West, Turkey has always ignited a spark of interest in foreigners, from the Ottoman Empire, to Whirling Dervishes, to doner kebab, to the novelists and poets that have sprung out of the country and its culture. Turkey seems to have one foot in the past and one in the future; the old fashioned, tea drinking society seems to clash with the ultra-modern aspirations of this growing and rich nation, but the end result works and is definitively Turkish. More importantly, Turkey makes for a good holiday; I can vouch for that personally. Here in the Gulf, surrounded by myriad shopping malls and mounds of sand, sometimes we forget what it is like to walk down an avenue and be confronted by street art, by merchants selling silk and the smell of roasted chestnuts, and then to glimpse a beautiful and grand mosque, eclipsing the sun with its magnificence. Turkey has long since shed its reputation for being a less than aesthetically pleasing country; Istanbul is still crowded and busy, but it is growing in population and beauty. Each area of the city has its own particular character; Taksim Square is the best place to go for nightlife, Bebek is lovely for a romantic meal and Sultanahmet, the old city, has interesting and historical places to visit.

Visiting the Topkapı Palace immerses you within the past. In the opulent rooms that are devoid of furnishings yet still manage to be grand and imposing, you can imagine how the sultans of old must have lived, and I envied them. Sultans even had rooms dedicated to their harem, a word that causes much controversy in the modern world, but had very different connotations back then (less concubines, more ladies of the court). Still, there is an alcove where the sultan could voyeuristically gaze at his harem without them knowing. However, arguably the best view in Topkapı Palace is the one over the balcony, of the city of Istanbul, which is impressive.

With a history as intricate as the silk carpets, there is no need to visit dusty old museums - I found that it’s alive in the city. Word of warning; Turkey is bitingly cold during the winter. This is the time to break out the Barbour jackets, don the Burberry trench, wrap the pashmina tightly, pull on the cashmere and the leather boots.

Topkapı Palace To reach Topkapı Palace you need to walk down an avenue lined with dead-looking trees (at least in winter) and enter the Imperial Gate, which is inscribed with mirrored calligraphy; “Enter in Peace and Security!” Once inside, you will quickly realise that Topkapı Palace is not like European palaces - it has a far more Arab feel although the space and attention to detail is definitely palatial in every sense. It’s a network of low rise architecture, structured around courtyards. Peppered with trees that have fallen victim to disease and have become hollow, it has a timeless atmosphere. You can enter whatever room piques your interest; all are lined with intricate mosaics and are beautiful in their own right. In the Armour Room, you can see enormous broadswords, old rifles and sharp bows; testament to the might and ingenuity of the Ottoman Empire. There are also holograms of the three kinds of soldiers in the Ottoman army (archer, swordsman and gunman) in their distinctive costumes, which demonstrate how to use their weapons with aplomb. Across the courtyard is a series of rooms in which the jewellery and thrones are displayed behind glass, decorated with jewels as big as your eyes, emerald drop earrings and Ottoman chairs.

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Hagia Sophia Turkish mosques are unlike any other mosques in the world; they are just as influenced by the Christian churches that came before them as by Arabic architecture. There are two mosques in Istanbul that are on every traveller’s bucket list, Hagia Sophia and The Blue Mosque. For 900 years, Hagia Sophia, which means “The Church of the Holy Wisdom” in Greek, was the centre of Orthodox Christianity until the Ottomans conquered the city in the 15th century. The Sultan of the Ottoman Empire is alleged to have seen a man looting the church, crying it was a temple for infidels, and commanded the thief stop. So moved by the beauty of the church, he had it converted into a mosque. Apart from its age, what makes Hagia Sophia stand out from other places of worship, is the contrast between the two religions that reside in the architectural stunner; a metaphor for Turkey. The Christian mosaics are a wonderful juxtaposition with the Islamic calligraphic roundels, gold writing on black, and the low hanging chandeliers give the mosque an atmospheric wonderment.

The Blue Mosque Close by is Sultan Ahmed Mosque. It’s only the tourists that call it the Blue Mosque, after the fading blue grey tiles on the tops of the domes. Inside it is a smorgasbord of mosaic tiles, a beautiful kaleidoscope of patterns. It is still a working mosque, unlike Hagia Sophia, which was converted into a museum almost a hundred years ago. It feels strange to be admiring the intricate designs of artisans long dead while men pray. After spiritual enlightenment and admiring artistic achievement, it’s always a good idea to swap cultural enrichment and spirituality for consumerism and to do some shopping. For souvenirs to spoiling yourself,

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avoid the malls and visit the Grand Bazaar. Worthy of a visit just for the architecture alone, this is the place to buy trinkets for family and friends, and to splurge on a gold necklace or watch for yourself.

Bursa If you want to see something more of Turkey and head off the beaten track, then head northwest to the historical town of Bursa. The winter season in Turkey is from October to May, and although you will only feel a slight chill in Istanbul, up north and in the mountains, there are several feet of snow. Bursa claims that it is the birthplace of the famous Turkish dish, Iskender, a strip of kebab meat layered over yoghurt, tomatoes and bread; a delicious must-have when eating your way through Turkish cuisine. There are many things to do in this picturesque town; plenty of tombs and museums to visit, but to really get to know the city you need to visit Bursa’s Grand Bazaar. It’s a labyrinth, one in which you will happily get lost. From the familiar burnt orange gold market with Turkish jewellery designs, to the boutiques, to the food stalls selling figs and walnuts, there is something for everyone. In a courtyard to the right, almost hidden away, are several cafes and the silk market, where beautiful silk scarves can be purchased. Unlike silk/wool hybrid scarves that are sold in the Gulf, these scarves are made in Bursa and are of superior quality. A trip to Turkey without a hammam experience is incomplete. Unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance to go to a spa - so clearly I will just have to return to Turkey. However, I heard good things about Çekirge, an area in the suburbs of Bursa that is famous for its hot mineral water baths. After walking around all day, something we’re not used to in Qatar, luxuriating is never a bad idea.

Uludağ

After culture, shopping and bathing, you might want to be prepared for a little adventure. In yesteryear, it was en vogue to travel to a chalet in the Alps, or Aspen, but that’s getting a little tired. All the cool kids (and the trendy sophisticates) are heading to Turkey, for an altogether different experience. Uludağ (which means “Great Mountain”) has several feet of snow in the winter and is sprinkled abundantly with evergreen trees, making you feel like you wandered through the wardrobe into Narnia. Uludağ boasts a great ski slope; the fresh snow falling and skiers and snowboarders whizzing down the slope at great speed make for a picturesque view. There are plenty of places to hire equipment if you don’t have your own skis and skiwear. If you’re not an experienced skier, or want to brush up on your skills, then instructors are available, some will even ski down to struggling tourists and help them - for a small fee of course. If you’re not keen on braving the slopes, the infamous “skidoo” will have to do. The only snowmobile worth mentioning, this makes an hour or two bouncing about the snow feel like being on a rollercoaster!

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I stayed in My Mountain, a hotel that was a luxurious and warm retreat from the chill outside. With a stunning open structure that reminded me of a doll’s house, the hotel’s cafes and restaurants are open all hours, so that you never have to wonder from where your next Turkish coffee will come. Its only downside is that it doesn’t have a Hammam. However, it does have a spa, where massages of all kinds are available. Apart from that, the bar is under reconstruction, although you can enjoy a glass of wine or two in the cafe. Otherwise, after a day tramping about in the snow, it’s likely you’ll fall into a deep slumber, only to awaken several hours later in the bright morning sun. Staying in Uludağ is the perfect antidote to the desert dust of the Gulf. The fresh air alone will cleanse your lungs with all that oxygen and make your skin glow. www.mymountainresort.net After you’ve visited Turkey, you’ll wonder why you hadn’t been before. It’s been a well kept secret for the last few years, but the slopes were busy with Turks enjoying the snow. There were relatively few tourists in the cities, meaning that there were no queues and it was relatively easy to find a chic bistro in which to lunch.

Getting There The fastest growing airline in the world, Turkish Airlines is the only way to travel to Turkey. Its business and first class seats are spacious, and its emphasis on serving the customer is second to none. Along with the delicious cuisine from Do&Co, you will be impressed by its Western efficiency and Eastern hospitality. In Ataturk Airport in Istanbul, the CIP lounge, exclusive to Turkish Airlines passengers, is the epitome of comfort - you can relax in a reclining leather chair in their cinema area, watching opera or music events. There are beds and showers available for long haul travellers, numerous eating stations and children’s areas where you can let loose on Playstations. It was easily the best lounge I have ever been to and it made a real difference - I was much less tired after travelling. It takes roughly five hours to fly direct from Doha to Istanbul. Flights are available between Istanbul and Bursa, or alternatively in the near future you will be able to travel by sea plane to Bursa. The Bursa tourist authority is planning its own airlines in the next few years. From Bursa to Uludağ, you can hire a private car to drive you along the picturesque route up the mountains. www.turkishairlines.com

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B E AUTY

Beauty addiction Refined scents, irresistible colour palettes, creams with magical powers... An overview of the latest beauty innovations, each one as essential as the newest fashion accessory. Photographed by Marc Ninghetto

From

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left to right:

Fan Fendi , 1932 Chanel , Jour HermĂ¨s , Bronze G oddess EstĂŠe Lauder

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From left to right and top to bottom: Sisle每a A nti-Aging Concentrate Firming Body Care Sisley, Advanced Body Creator Super Slimming Reducer Shiseido, Deep Comfort Body Butter Clinique, Soothing After Sun Mist, Face & Body La Prairie, Cellular Energizing Body Spray La Prairie, Sensual Bare Body Cream Kenzo, Youth Perfection Lotion Carita , Celluli Eraser Biotherm

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From left to right and top to bottom: Orchidée Impériale Care Cream Guerlain, Age Perfect Cellular Rebirth Serum L’Oréal, Advanced Time Zone Estée Lauder, Revitalizing Supreme Global A nti-Aging Eye Balm Estée Lauder, Age Perfect Cellular Rebirth Cream L’Oréal, Absolue Premium Regenerating and Replenishing Care Cream Lancôme, Super Aqua-Serum Light Lancôme , Blue Therapy Eye Cream Biotherm, Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream Clinique

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l i fe s t y l e

Time for innovation On 21 January, the 23rd Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) opened its doors in Geneva. In an exhibition space of over 30,000m2, 16 internationally famous brands unveiled their latest innovations to a hand-picked audience. On the same day, at the centre of the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices, the 4th Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE), an unmissable event for new designers in the field of fine watchmaking, provided a showcase for timepieces by brands such as Alpina, Hautlence, Laurent Ferrier, Milus and Ratel. These innovations displayed real technical and aesthetic prowess, and fascinated watch-lovers and collectors, alike. Over the next few pages, Sur la Terre International highlights the pick of the tickers. Text: Gaëlle Hennet Photographs : all rights reserved

Luminor Submersible 1950 2500m 3 Days Automatic Titanio, Officine Panerai

Throughout its history, Officine Panerai has developed timepieces capable of functioning at the most extreme depths, to meet the challenge of the deep seas. Today, the firm is keeping its proud tradition alive while adding new technical features, to offer diving watch fans a professional instrument that performs exceptionally well. The 47-millimetre Luminor 1950 Case is made of satin finish titanium, a material which is lightweight yet sturdy enough to withstand high pressure. It’s guaranteed to stay waterproof at depths of up to 2,500 metres, thanks to its Panerai Crown Guard. Protected by a sapphire glass just 5.9 millimetres thick, the black dial is adorned with indicator marks in the shape of batons and dots, applied in relief and covered with a luminescent substance, to allow optimal visibility in the dark. Finally, the Luminor Submersible 1950 is animated by the automatic winding, calibre P.9000, entirely designed at the factory in Neuchâtel, with its distinctive pendulum that oscillates at 28,800 alternations per hour, and has a power reserve of three days.

Tirion TriRetrograde, Milus

The brand is now extending its emblematic Tirion TriRetrograde collection, with the addition of a new 42 millimetre diameter alongside the 45 and 47 millimetre versions, so there’s something to suit all wrists. Of course, the case size isn’t the only innovation. The tirion is also establishing itself as a new model in its own right, available with two dials in complementary styles. The classic dial on the Clous de Paris version has a fine guilloché decoration at its centre. Blue openwork hands with luminescent inserts mark the hours, minutes and seconds, while the silver-coloured rehaut features roman numerals and surface-mounted indications, which are also blue. The avant-garde dial of the skeleton model has an anthracite rehaut, framing a view of the TriRetrograde mechanism. Finally, the technical feel is reinforced by small blue screws attaching the silver-coloured bridges and open work hour and minute hands, highlighted by a luminescent coating.

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Patrimony Traditionnelle Automatique, Vacheron Constantin

With its clean lines and harmonious proportions, this new timepiece meets the new Geneva seal requirements - far from being confined to the movement of the watch, these standards also take the watch as a whole into consideration. Capable of appealing to an increasingly demanding clientele, the pink gold case protects a silver-coloured opaline dial, with long surface-mounted indications in 18 carat pink gold. At the heart of its 41 millimetre case lies the extra-flat 1120 automatic movement, with a power reserve of over 40 hours. To complete the look, Vacheron Constantin has given its new Patrimony an elegant brown alligator bracelet with a pink gold-tongued buckle.

Sailing Yachttimer, Alpina

Ideally suited to a sportsman’s wrist, this new model is equipped with many features that will come in handy when out sailing. Because in a yacht race, it’s the seconds that count, not the minutes, the Yachttimer’s triangular, neon orange second hand stands out very clearly. Its transparent sapphire glass case offers an untrammelled view of the complex calibre AL-880 that drives this exceptional mechanism. The Yachttimer also has a number of extra features, such as a countdown window that goes from ten to one before displaying a neon start sign. It also has a water resistance of up to 30 atmospheres. Finally, when the race is won, this timepiece’s black rubber strap can be replaced by a metal and chainmail bracelet, ideal for an evening at the Yacht club restaurant!

Clifton 1830, Baume et Mercier

This new piece by Baume et Mercier, made of 18 carat red gold and driven by a proprietary calibre with an automatic winding mechanism, aims to be the most faithful reproduction of the historic model that inspired the Clifton Collection. Delicate and sober, the watch case is waterproof at depths of up to 50 metres, and reveals a calibre with a running time of 90 hours, once the springs in the two cylinders are fully reloaded. Visible through its sapphire glass base, the exceptional heart of the watch also possesses a number of features that will ensure it defies the passing years without going out of style. Like the pendulum, which completes 21,600 alternations per hour, each piece has been optimised to avoid being placed under stress. Worthy of the best Baume et Mercier chronometers, this calibre also has an exceptional finish: its bridges are adorned with a “côtes de Genève” decoration, while the delicately blue-stained steel screws are directly visible.

Avant-Garde HLrq, Hautlence

After the launch of the Hlq line in 2009 and the Hl classic line in 2011, the Neuchâtelbased watchmaker presents the Hlrq. With its distinctive contemporary look, this model is more elegant and more powerful than its predecessors. Thus, while the 44 millimetre steel box is more imposing due to the increased proportions of the lugs, the sapphire dial displays a mechanical movement with a manual winding mechanism, entirely designed in-house, with jump hours, retrograde minutes and date. The first two models in this line will be available in the summer.

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Excalibur 36, Roger Dubuis

The Excalibur 36 is an ode to femininity from the new Roger Dubuis collection, heavily inspired by the world of knights in shining armour, where daring and power are the order of the day. This pink gold model has plenty to admire, with its bracelet set with 624 diamonds, bezel revealing 48 diamonds, and extraordinary mechanical movement with an automatic winding mechanism. Featuring 172 components, the calibre rD821, certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), boasts a power reserve of 48 hours. Bearing the prestigious Geneva seal, a guarantee of exceptional skill, the Excalibur 36 is undoubtedly destined for the brightest of futures!

UAC Skeleton SKB, Ratel

Founded in 2004, the Genevan watch brand is adding a variety of models to its UAC collection, each with its own distinctive, high-quality finish. The UAC Skeleton SKB, produced in a limited edition of 50, is a good example. This elegant timepiece stands out from the crowd thanks to its Vallée de Joux automatic movement, a running time of 42 hours and 28,800 alternations per hour, not forgetting its black steel case, which emphasises the dial’s refined design. An exclusive, must-have item!

Galet Micro-Rotor, Laurent Ferrier

Always on the lookout for technical innovations, this year Laurent Ferrier presents the Galet Micro-rotor, a unique collection with several exclusive features. In keeping with the current trend towards thinner cases, the Genevan brand has designed a compact, extremely thin micro-rotor calibre with an automatic winding mechanism. The calibre has a gold oscillating mass with unidirectional winding. The winding mechanism of the movement itself is optimised by an exclusive silicium escapement, with a double impulse directly to the pendulum. As well as its technical features, the model also stands out thanks to its curved case, in red or grey solid gold, its dial in silver or slate grey, and the exceptional finish on its movement, whose bridges are adorned with a “côtes de Genève” decoration.

Big Bang Zebra, Hublot

This year’s ultra-hip zebra print is making an appearance at Hublot. After the success of the leopard Bang and Boa Bang, say hello to the extremely feminine Big Bang Zebra in black ceramic, in a limited run of 250. Featuring a bezel set with 48 topazes and spinels, and a dial decorated with diamonds, this timepiece (waterproof at depths of up to 100 metres) also has a distinctive automatic mechanical chronograph movement. Also available in 18 carat red gold and white ceramic, it’s sure to win the heart of many a fashionista!

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Lady Arpels Papillon Extraordinaire, Van Cleef & Arpels

Every year, the new Cadrans Extraordinaires pieces offer a totally new and enchanting interpretation of the passing of time: landscapes from all over the world, sparkling constellations, good luck motifs, butterflies and kites. With its Lady Arpels Papillon model, the company revisits one of its emblematic motifs, with a bright new colour palette dominated by blue and pink. A fine display of skill, this prestigious watch brilliantly combines lapis-lazuli inlaid in the pietra dura style, carved mother-of-pearl and gold for the background and outline of the butterfly, wings coloured with enamel, and a dial set with diamonds. Harmoniously combined, these various techniques add relief and depth to this three-dimensional scene which you’ll never tire of admiring.

Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication, Audemars Piguet

Created in 1993, the iconic royal oak model has distinguished itself over the decades, with its ultra-sporty look and extraordinary technical features. It now comes in an exceptional limited edition version. This timepiece, equipped with a 44 millimetre titanium case that is waterproof at depths of up to 20 metres, is driven by a Grande complication movement with an automatic winding mechanism, and a running time of 45 hours. This model’s features include a minute repeater, a complication with a bell that can be set to the hour, quarter-hour or minute, as well as a perpetual calendar displaying the day, month and lunar phase.

Extra-flat Emperador Coussin Minute Repeater, Piaget

The latest expression of Piaget’s virtuosity in the field of extra-flat watches, this pink gold model, entirely made in-house, sets a double record for thinness in its category. Indeed, the dial, which boasts the highest quality hand finish, is just 4.8 millimetres high, while the minute repeater box is 9.4 millimetres thick, despite its 69 components. Based on the calibre 1200P, which was already the flattest movement ever made, the 1290P was developed by no fewer than six engineers, who worked for three years to design a calibre featuring parts that are as thin as a hair. The case has been made as hollow as possible to offer the best resonance available. Discover these amazing technical feats without delay!

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Tonda 1950 set, Parmigiani Fleurier

Like its predecessor, the Tonda 1950, this new model, set with 84 diamonds, showcases the brand’s trademark features, such as a streamlined profile, a round, cut crown and elegant delta-shaped hands. Boasting an extra-flat automatic movement, it also has a running time of 42 hours, while its movement has an eccentric platinum oscillating micro-mass to guarantee inertia. The dial, available in graphite or grained white, shows hours, minutes and seconds, with its twelve rod-shaped indicators laid out in a sober arrangement.

Ingenieur Chronograph Racer, IWC Schaffhausen

The new Ingenieur watch collection by IWc Schaffhausen honours the brand’s new partnership with AMG Petronas, Mercedes Benz’s Formula 1 team. Materials frequently used to make racing cars, such as carbon fibres, ceramics and titanium, make for some exceptionally well-made timepieces. Sober, functional and technically advanced, the Ingenieur Chronograph Racer is a real measuring instrument which can be used for timing races, including pit stops, and its tachymeter scale can measure the speed of a car over a given distance.

Classics Manufacture Worldtimer, Frédérique Constant

Available in two models, the new Frédérique Constant collection combines technicality and elegance more effectively than ever. While both models have stainless steel cases and have the particularity of using the crown to set the watch, one of the models has beading and a circular “côtes de Genève” decoration on the movement. What’s more, the shiny silver dial has a complex guilloché pattern in the middle, surrounded by hand-polished black oxidised hands and roman numerals. The other offers most of the same features as the first model, and has a magnificent silver map of the world at its centre.

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out of the box

QMS’13: Putting The Car In Qatar Qatar’s motor show tends to be the poor relation when compared to the region’s flagship automotive showcase that shares its time between Dubai and Abu Dhabi, often relying on family-oriented stunt shows with pro drifters and Red Bull X-Fighters to draw the crowds. This year, however, in its third iteration, the Qatar Motor Show, with heavy support from VW Group, pulled off a few global and regional coups with several big-name brands choosing the event to unveil their latest wares and wheels for the first time.

W Motors’ Lykan Hypersport revealed..

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Lamborghini Aventador Roadster..

erhaps the big headlines were written by Lebanon-based W-Motors, which unveiled its Lykan Hypersport (see page 122). Billed as the Arab world’s first super sportscar and boasting all the right stats, like a limited run of just seven cars, an eye-watering $3.4m price tag, diamond-studded headlights and a “free” exclusive Cyrus Klepcys watch (again, one of seven) worth around $300,000 with each car sold. The Lykan is due to be a reality in October this year, and is more likely to become a collection piece in the garages of the super-rich, alongside their raft of Ferraris, Bugattis and Lamborghinis, rather than their replacement. Speaking of Lamborghini, the legendary Italian brand delivered the biggest coup of the lot, courtesy of the time difference between Miami and Doha. Around eight-hours before the scheduled global unveil of its new Aventador LP700-4 Roadster on South Beach, the covers were pulled back to popping flash bulbs and an enthusiastic reception from the assembled throng in Qatar’s Exhibition Centre, giving our tiny emirate’s motor show a genuine world first. A day later, SLT jetted out to Florida to put the topless Bull through its paces as part of another Qatar exclusive which you can read all about that in the next issue.

Bertone Aston Martin..

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Maserati’s Quattroporte..

The pick of the regional launches came in the shape of the all-new Maserati Quattroporte, at least the front of it, anyway, because I am convinced the back-end looks more like that of a Kia. The Quattroporte, unveiled to the world just days earlier at the Detroit Motor Show in the US, is the sixth-generation of the acclaimed car and celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. The most notable difference from its predecessor is the longer wheelbase, offering more space for rear passengers and more volume in the boot. However, despite its growth spurt, the car doesn’t look unwieldy, though, again, the designers could have done better with the back-end. Under the hood beats an all-new, Maserati-designed 3.8-litre, twin turbo V8 heart (there is a 3.0-litre, twin turbo V6 option, too) with direct injection that delivers 530hp and a sprint from 0 to 100km/h in a not-toosluggish 4.7 seconds. The Quattroporte is capable of a top speed of 307km/h and the all-wheel-drive system with a balanced 50/50 power distribution between front and rear enables greater traction when driving at speed. The other standout feature of the car is the lack of clutter around the centre console. Its predecessor looked like the pilot’s seat in the space shuttle with its myriad buttons and switches. The new touch control system removes most of this, leaving a much more aesthetically pleasing and much-less confusing interior. Japanese giant, Mitsubishi was giving the other 4x4 brands a run for their money at the other end of the hall with an impressive “Mountain Range” booth set up. As well as the latest iterations of Pajero and ASX, the gem in, quite literally, the rough, was the 2014 Outlander, which had been shipped in especially from Japan to preview at the show. It’s the third generation of the 7-seater SUV, and is more carlike than last year’s model, possibly targetting the growing crossover SUV segment that was led last year by Nissan’s Juke. The new Outlander is more

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Mitsubishi’s 2014 Outlander..

rounded and less aggressive than its predecessor, but the new Hideaki Kanazawadesigned bodywork is said to be aerodynamically more efficient by seven percent. It will maintain its 2.4-litre four-stroke block, which delivers a more than respectable 166hp, though SLT has heard that there may be a 3-litre V6 GT version on the horizon, too, which might play better in this market with its greater power output and quicker acceleration. Staying with the letter M, McLaren Automotive made its Qatar, and regional, motor show debut. While Mark Harrision, Regional Director for the company’s MEA operations, gave an insightful presentation on the 50-year history of the Woking-based marque, we were more interested in the MP4-12C Coupé that had been given the McLaren Special Operations Team custom treatment at the behest of the local dealer. To our surprise, it wasn’t at all as hideous as we might have expected, in bright yellow with an offset black stripe running the length of the car. An inverse colour scheme for the interior worked very well indeed. The company also had its MP4-12C Spider on show, which we got to drive in Dubai in February (see page 68).

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McLaren’s MP4-12C..

The motor show wasn’t just about cars, there was also a fine selection of bikes on show, too, with Harley Davidsons in abundance, alongside Japanese and Italian crotch-rockets, such as Kawasakis and Ducatis. However, the SLT favourite was the epic two-wheeled behemoth that is the Triumph Rocket III. When this bike first hit the roads, it had the largest displacement of any mass production motorcycle at a staggering 2,294cc. We’ll wager that it probably still does, as this 140bhp monster looks capable of towing a Land Cruiser. Triumph’s self-styled “ultimate muscle streetfighter” would do it in some style, with its vast black fuel tank and massive polished chrome engine block. There ought to be an honourable mention for the likes of Bertone, which at the back of the showfloor was displaying some wonderful coachbuilt concepts, such as the Aston Martin hot-hatchback, among others. A shout-out must also go to all of those who displayed the wonderful classics, including the 1950s Corvette Stingray and the original AC Cobra; they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. In summary, then, what has been, essentially, a glorified dealer show in its first tentative years, finally offered up some hope that QMS can become a calendar event in the region’s automotive diary, despite some brands opting out this year. Not that they were terribly missed, as there was plenty to keep everyone entertained, from the jaded motoring hacks to those just coming to kick tyres and get up close to cars they otherwise wouldn’t be able to. It was billed as the best one yet, and QMS 2013 lived up to the hype, leaving us hoping that it can continue to get better in 2014 and eventually start to challenge Dubai for the region’s automotive honour. The last few shows have been the warm-up laps, but this year, Qatar finally entered the race. The grid is set, so gentlemen, start your engines...

Triumph Rocket III..

An original AC Cobra and Corvette Stingray..

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Lykan The Idea,

But Talk Is Cheap. To much applause, the covers were pulled off the Arab world’s first hypercar at the recent Qatar Motor Show, with much talk about a regional challenge to the likes of Lamborghini and Bugatti. Amidst all of the buzz surrounding the Lykan Hypersport, perennial sceptic James McCarthy remains hopeful that W Motors will deliver on its promise, and not be just another gimmicky flash-in-the-pan.

he question on most of its competitors’ lips at the recent Qatar Motor Show was, “how Arabic is the Arab world’s first hypercar?” Considering that the bodywork, chassis and engine of the W Motors Lykan Hypersport are all produced in Germany and put together in Italy, it might seem that the Lebanon-based company is stretching the regional credentials of the car a bit far. However, there is absolutely no doubt that Lykan Hypersport is Arabic in spirit, if not entirely in body. Priced at an eye-watering $3.4m, it is expensive enough to show the world you are a man of means. With only seven being built, it most definitely has the exclusivity so desperately craved by the GCC’s wealthy. With headlights encrusted with diamonds, sapphires emeralds and rubies, as well as solid gold wire stitching in the upholstery, it is most certainly bling enough to cater to certain regional tastes. There is even a whiff of local arrogance about the way the company claims that it will choose the seven worthy owners of its flagship car. Quite bold for a first foray into the reasonably saturated super sports car market. Bold, it seems, is very much the watchword, particularly with its performance claims. W Motors says that the carbon composite Lykan, which looks like some illicit automotive husbandry has been undertaken with a Lamborghini, a McLaren and a Koenigsegg, is capable of delivering 750bhp from a twin turbo boxer type flat six engine, built by RUF Automobile in Germany, with a 0-100km/h sprint time of 2.8 seconds and a top speed

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of 385km/h. According to company bigwigs, these are tried and tested statistics, even though the unit on show was still just a static model. Perhaps the most Arabic characteristic of the Lykan, though, is the company’s belief that anything is possible if you are willing to make the investment. Clearly, there is no way that W Motors is making its six-years’ worth of R&D money back on just seven cars, even at such an astronomical price. In fact, CEO Ralph Debbas admits that, if it was only a short term project, the company would be making a staggering loss on each car. However, like many leaders in the region, he has a vision. “It is a ten year programme,” he explained to me on the company’s stand in Doha. “We are already working on the successor to the Lykan Hypersport, a car that will be announced

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in November this year at the Dubai Motor Show, The Supersport edition, which will be cheaper at $1.8m and will have a production run of 25-30 units worldwide. “After that we plan to launch a new model each year after,” he continued. “Then we will have one-off editions, so we can tweak it and design it for clients who want a car that is totally unique to them.” It doesn’t stop there, Debbas is looking to establish research and design centres in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Qatar, all within a year, in order to create the first Middle Eastern hub for automotive technology. “W Motors isn’t just building cars, we are developing new technologies as well - like the hologram integrated inside the Lykan - we are the only ones in the world with this technology, so these are the many things we are trying to promote through this first vehicle.”

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Ah yes, the hologram. While extensive details weren’t available, the console of the Lykan will include the automotive world’s first holographic display system with interactive motion, developed in conjunction with ID4Motion. Essentially this means that, with simple hand gestures, the driver can control the multimedia interface and certain vehicle control systems. As cool as that sounds, I am still not sure that motorists in the region need any further distractions when they are driving. A revolutionary system that disables cell phones from all but Bluetooth connectivity or physically restrains children in their car seats might be more appropriate technology. That aside, Debbas’ intentions are admirable and his bold vision ambitious, but it all rests on the company doing that most un-regional of things and delivering the product on time. If W Motors pulls it off and meets its October deadline for delivery of the car - and fulfils its promise of putting one on the track at Yas Marina in Abu Dhabi - then the motoring world will be completely convinced that this is a lasting venture. The truth of the matter is that so few automotive startups, many with much less ambition than W Motors, actually make it past the first few years. Those that do can struggle for decades before capitulating. You only have to look at the likes of TVR, AC and Bugatti (which was dead and buried before being resurrected by Ferdinand Piëch and VW Group) to see that even long-established marques can fall foul to the vagaries of the luxury car market. Even Aston Martin has spent the

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best part of the last two decades lurching between fiscal crises and different owners before achieving its current, albeit fragile, stability. So, while we here at SLT hope that Debbas and his extraordinary car can buck the trend, talk, as they say, is cheap. If that turns out to be the case with W Motors, then the Lykan could prove to be a very costly statement indeed.

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A Change of Art with Khalid Albaih Born in Romania to Sudanese parents, local artist Khalid Albaih has lived in Qatar for over 20 years, and has been pursuing a life in art for about as long. His series of political cartoons, affectionately called Khartoon!, have realised their own international awakening parallel to the Arab Spring, and his name is quickly becoming synonymous with political art in the Gulf and Middle East as a whole. In a Sur la Terre exclusive, Albaih shares his thoughts on the rise and renaissance of regional art.

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hen I was growing up in Doha, art appreciation didn’t really exist. Back then, there was no interest, no respect for it. Getting a job in the arts, becoming an artist, it was never considered a career. It was a hobby. In the Arab world, your job is all about one thing: having a title, a name value. Our parents wanted us to be doctors, engineers, accountants; these titles that define you as a person, but what is your title as an artist? There was no such thing. Artists were not classifiable. But to me, “Artist” is a big word, and it deserves respect. In today’s world, anyone on Tumblr can call himself an artist. But I think you should have to work for it. It has to be earned. To do that, I think it’s important for artists to create a dialogue around a particular point of view, not by working with people who already know everything, but by informing those who don’t. If you look at someone like [famous Palestinian cartoonist] Naji AlAli, that’s the level I’m trying to reach; not because of his name recognition or popularity, but because of what he achieved as an artist. He made a mark, which everybody - Palestinians and Israelis, Arabs and Westerners - could recognise and appreciate. Yes, his images were intense, even blunt, but he did it without being vulgar. Being a Muslim artist in the Middle East is all about how you perceive yourself and how you are being perceived by others, whether it’s your family or even your enemies. People always ask about challenges artists face with censorship, but here, it’s about self-censorship. Say whatever you want, but don’t be vulgar; the point is to express, not insult. And Naji Al-Ali did that. He gave his life, everything he had, to deliver that message, and he did it simply through his medium. It’s why I got into cartoons in the first place. When I was a child in Sudan, we used to have to watch the president speak on TV for hours. It might take me up to two weeks of research, but I can sum up that same

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speech with one image, speaking simply and strongly, writing without writing. Whether you know about the subject or not, cartoons are easy to approach and speak to a wider demographic. I’m fortunate to have had my stuff appear in some very specialised political magazines, which is great exposure, but that’s not necessarily the audience I want to communicate with; I want to reach everyone else. It took me a while to figure out how I was going to do that, but eventually, I did. When I first started, I met with a lot of old men behind big wooden desks, not a computer in sight. These newspaper men wouldn’t even give me a chance. You could feel this huge generation gap between those who were leading and the young people, who were trying to do something different. That’s why people turned to the internet during the Arab Spring. Things like Twitter and Facebook, the way they were used during the Egyptian revolution to organise and assist, it was amazing. All the art that came out online and on the streets during the Arab Spring was incredible. It became almost a personality of the revolution. The difference between now and how it was three years ago under Mubarak’s rule in Egypt, for example; it’s night and day. Today, people in the Middle East are exploding with expression because they were kept silent for more than 40 years. Political cartoonists aren’t just in newspapers anymore, they are sprayed on walls and posted on pages. One of the proudest moments in my life was when someone in Egypt emailed me and told me he had sprayed my cartoon on a wall during the protests. And the great thing is, it’s still happening. There are still people out there, fighting for their art.

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I have a lot of respect for people like another personal role model, Sudanese artist Ibrahim El-Salahi. After finishing his degrees in London and coming back to Sudan as a Minister for Arts and Culture, he was jailed, but he kept at it and his work has been exhibited at the Museum of African Art and the Tate Modern. There are certain cultures that are not made for artists, but there are still those who persevere within them, like the new filmmakers in Iran or artistic groups like Edge of Arabia in Saudi, who are doing a magnificent job in one of the hardest place in the world to be an artist. Then there’s Comics for Syria, a collective of exiled Syrian cartoonists who are still making their art from Egypt with a Facebook page. They inspired me to keep going, to go online and have my own Arab Spring. The internet gave them the power to take charge, and that’s exactly what it did for my art. Things always change, and it’s up to you to either keep up or step down. That was proven in places like Egypt and Tunisia, and it’s still going on in places like Syria. Don’t let anyone ever keep you down. Do what you can with what you have, but if you want to do something, and you’re not doing it, especially in today’s Internet age, that’s your own fault.

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if you want to do something, and you’re not doing it, especially in today’s Internet age, that’s your own fault.

There are a huge number social media and social funding sites like Kickstarter to get yourself started, and there is no reason not to create. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not easy - you have to build a marketing strategy around yourself, you have to push. You’ll get shot down, turned away and hurt, but you have to make the most of the opportunities we have today, you have to fight for it. That’s what I learned growing up in the Middle East, and it’s also why I love working within the arts in Qatar now, because things here are changing, too. The Gulf is more privileged than anywhere else in the Arab world today, and I think its leaders are beginning to use that wealth to build an artistic link between the West and the East. But we’re not just parachuting-in big names for no reason; we’re building a culture here by merging those worlds together and fostering an arts generation by exposure. Just like I want to do with my cartoons, we’re connecting art with people who normally wouldn’t be exposed to it, bringing the bestof-the-best here to inspire them. I would have loved the opportunities these kids have now. My generation had one museum, and it was ... typical: old things packed in boxes, pieces that never changed from year to year. Dust. Now, people realise that museums have evolved; they have workshops, educational departments, concerts. Kids come away learning about their experiences, doing homework on the artifacts, building the belief that doing this, participating in art, could lead to a real career. This country isn’t just creating doctors and engineers, we’re creating art historians and curators. We’re creating artists by inspiring them. We are also becoming leaders again in art, which has always been a big part of our lives as Muslims, but somehow disappeared. Now, all we are known for is war, terror and suicide bombs. It was never like that before. I mean, we had art before the Renaissance; it was rooted

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in our society, and now we’re trying to bring that back. When I mention Qatar, I want people to say, “Oh yeah, the Museum of Islamic Art!” When I mention Sudan, I want them to think of Nubian culture, about this amazing place that has the most pyramids in the world. I don’t want them to just think about Darfur. That’s not how we should be remembered; it should be for our region’s beauty, not for its war. If we continue going in the direction we’re going, the arts scene here will flourish and become part of our society, which is something we as Arabs lost for a very long time. We may be young, but we have opportunities we never had before, and we’re already in competition with the best in the world. In ten years’ time, we’ll be the best in the world. It’s important to remember that in other places, they’re laying off staff and cutting spending on the arts. But in Qatar, that culture is just beginning. We’re just getting started. I’m just getting started.

. sur la terre . out of the box .

M A RKETPL ACE

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© 2013 Sur la Terre (SLT) is published bi-monthly by Firefly Communications. All material strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is prohibited. All content is believed to be factual at the time of going to print, and contributors’ views are their own derived opinions and not necessarily that of Firefly Communications or SLT. No responsibility or liability is accepted by the publishers or editorial staff for the loss of occasioned to any individual or company, legally, financially or physically, as a result of any statement, fact, figure or expression of opinion or belief appearing in SLT. The publisher does not officially endorse any advertising or advertorial content for third party products. Photography and image credits, where not otherwise stated, are those of Getty/Gallo Images and/or Shutterstock or iStock Photo and/ or Firefly communications, each of which retains their individual copyrights.

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