Sur la Terre Arabia 36 - Pre-Spring 2015 by Firefly Communications

ARABIA

LANA DEL REY Inside the fascinating life of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern-day pin-up

SPRING AWAKENING

Fashion goes beautiful & bold this season

ESCAPE TO PARADISE

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Sur la Terre gets lost on the island of serendipity

n. 36

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does fa s h i o n w e e k

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Four fashion capitals, 28 days - we show you how to prep for fashion's busiest time of year

contents

issue 3 6

NEWS dec a de dr essing

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Nostalgia for the early 1970s dominated the runways this season, but, putting aside the trends, have you found your style decade?

fr inge benefits

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Back on the style agenda, we're no longer on the fringe of the trend - it's now time to dive head first

wor ks of a rt

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The world's top art spaces are turning their focus to fashion, making cool Warholian pop the boldest way to make a statement come spring

gr eat da nes

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Who would have thought the Scandinavians would have pulled out this season's most coveted cotton pieces?

Cecilie Copenhagen and the Danish captial proves us wrong with a slew of beautfiul Arabic-inspired numbers that have the style set in a frenzy

insider scoop

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Kara Ross spills the beans on collaborating with Instagram's favourite illustrator; Isabel Marant & Karl Lagerfeld fight for the Gulf's attention; Gucci names its design successor

STYLE tr en d r eport

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With spring around the corner, which trend will you fall for? SLT's seasonal runway report shows all the key trends, hero pieces and must-buy accessories you should be looking out for; this is what you will be wearing this spring

. sur la terre . contents .

shoot

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Garden State: plant the seed for a wardrobe in full bloom with lush floral prints, embellished buds and velvety brocade petals

BEAUTY fi n e fe ather s

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With Spring Summer 15 being the season of the lightly tousled, our love for its arch nemesis - the Bad Bob - has us splitting hairs on how to style our manes this season

b ac k s t ag e b e au t y

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After last winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tough and androgynous look, spring sees the revival of a more feminine and sensual approach to beauty

contents

issue 3 6

u n dergrou n d d i n i n g - 114 Meet the girls behind the UAE's secret Dinner Club by No.57

ou t of this w o r l d - 106 From rolling tea country to tropical swathes of sand, Lucy Williams explores the island of Sri Lanka

pe ta l push er s

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Embrace the light days ahead with our edit of scentsational notes to get lost in

PLAY a f u z z y a f fa i r

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An insight into the mad world of facial hair, one stache at a time

h a m i lt on gr a n d

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We get close to the origins of the game as we visit one of golf's most prestigious addresses. Find out how after a multi-million dollar, four-year redevelopment programme, the Hamilton Grand is faring

plug i n

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Sofiane Si Merabet, founder of urban t-shirt brand ba-ll-ad shares his e-habits and digital addictions

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Dine, dream and delight your senses like a local with the latest hotel openings, restaurant launches and luxurious goings-on for the global traveler

a rou n d the wor ld

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A guide to 24 hours in Brooklyn; because there is more to New York than SoHo, the Meatpacking district and East Village

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Dubai-based fashion designer Reema Ameer shares her little black book to the capital, spilling her secrets on everything from the best breakfast spots in the city to the top designer boutique hotels to rest your head in

CULTURE cinem a

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SLT catches up with Hollywood favourite, Salma Hayek, in Doha for the Ajyal Youth film festival. Read what she has to say on Arab heroines, Khalil Gibran and her new film

pag e s

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A bevy of books celebrating four of the most gifted chroniclers of the style scene is hitting the store shelves soon - find out what you should make room for on your coffee table

l a na del r ay

a rt

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Whether your taste is of the lyrical, luxury or local variety, this spring there is a must-see exhibit with your name on it

the list

Palace Hotel to the New York Times inaugural Art for Tomorrow conference in Doha - get ready for a busy few months

Accessories th e i n terv iew

Catapulted from the indie scene to chart- topping fame, the American singer shares her whirlwind four years

LIFE gl obe tro t ter

m y sr i l a nk a

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The start of the new year brings with it a slew of events to keep one's calendar filled to the brim. Here is a round-up of the season's most exciting, from tennis at the lush green grounds of Abu Dhabi's Emirates

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The British designer, Osman, talks Madonna, Middle Eastern women and how he Just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get on the social media bandwagon

or igi ns

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Known for the quality and handcraftmanship of its goods, find out how Tod's transformed a shoemaking business into one of the world's biggest luxury lifestyle brands to date

the scene

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An inside tour of the parties, happenings and pulse of the Gulf's bustling capitals

back page cu lt c lu t c h e s

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See what SLT's editors are coveting at the moment

Acne Studios SS15

ditor's letter

When it came to putting together what we call “our big fashion issue” we didn’t know quite where to begin, except that we wanted to highlight a unique local, as well as international, curation of the style world’s most beautiful pieces. One of the Columnists featured in this issue, Sophie Jones-Cooper, urges us to recall what style decade we belong to. Nostalgic to the noughties and a love of low-slung hipster jeans, she asks a question that has us puzzled season after season; do we really need to be dressing according to the trends? Some might feel we do, while others will disagree. Our plentiful fashion pages are here to guide you through such decisions - with it being a new season, you might find yourself standing at a very interesting, nevertheless, thrilling precipice, as is always the case with fashion; but who will take the plunge?

through her cigarette-in-hand global whirlwind lifestyle between stage, studio and road. “In the Coasts Less Travelled”, Lucy Williams takes on timeless ruins, crashing waves and endless lush green horizons on the island of Sri Lanka, in a photo journal captured by her partner and coveted British photographer, James Wright. In addition to their beautiful renditions, Dubai-based Reema Amer shares her own personal diary into its equally captivating capital and bustling cosmopolis, Colombo. Our feature on Emirati duo, Alamira Noor Bani Hashim and Buthaina Al Mazrui, who host secret rendezvous dinners, shows that good conversation and equally delicious food are the only ingredients needed for a winning evening. And we end with Hollywood screen siren and women’s activist, Salma Hayek, who sheds light on her Arabic heritage and production of Khalil Gibran’s The Prophet. I hope this issue will offer ample inspiration in the days to come, as spring slowly creeps its way into the region, and 2015 gets underway.

This issue’s cover star Lana Del Rey has one of the industry’s most recognisable voices – her dreamy ballads along with, what Hollywood has deemed, her “Sadcore” sensibility will break your heart one sultry verse at a time. She recounts for us her uphill battle to contentment, taking us

Dina Kabbani

SENIOR Editor

. sur la terre . editor's letter .

“My default style decade is definitely the noughties. And why, because this was where I spent my fashion prime – my twenties. Give me low slung hipster jeans over today’s high waisted variety any day.” Sophie Jones-Cooper, who bares her trials and tribulations in keeping up with the trends in “Decade Dressing”

“The thing is… when you're a designer of magazines, you mostly get a view of the outside world from your iMac 27-inch displays! And, if truth be told, we also get to see what's on the must-have/must-see/must-do lists. So, after designing this issue of SLT's travel section, I am planning my 'real world' vacation for 2015... and Sri Lanka is most definitely high on my list.” SLT’s design maverick Helen Louise Carter, on what she loved putting together this issue

“I’ll always remember crossing the torch-lit bridge to Elsewhere and eating prawn curry with our toes in the sand, the stars overhead and feeling incredibly lucky.” Fashion & travel blogger Lucy Williams, who shares her palm-lined, bargain-filled, barefoot adventures on her recent trip to the island of Sri Lanka

“The hottest art event to look out for in the next couple of months is surely the fast approaching 'March Madness' in the UAE – particularly the Sharjah Biennial, Design Days and of course this year's much anticipated Art Dubai!” Emergeast’s Nikki Meftah & Dima Abdul Kader, who shine light on some of the Middle East’s hottest emerging artists in “Art”

. sur la terre . contributors .

“It all depends, if I’m working (giving classes) all the hours are great, just because my students are amazing, and they make my hours look like seconds! But my favourite time of day is when I return home and know that everything is ok and done with.” Antonio Soares, who illustrated the beautiful timepieces in “Best Of Time”, on his favourite time of day

“The billowy kaftans seen at Lanvin and Chloé are my top picks for spring. I have a soft spot for anything oversized and crafted in a silky texture!” Julia Seidl, our Editor-at-Large, on the fashion trend she can't wait to try out for SS15

Director of Publications Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com General Manager Joe Marritt j.marritt@firefly-me.com - Editorial Regional Managing Editor James McCarthy j.mccarthy@firefly-me.com Senior Editor Dina Kabbani d.kabbani@firefly-me.com Editor-At-Large Julia Seidl j.seidl@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper

Sur la Terre International S.A.

- Contributors Lucy Williams Antonio Soares Dima Abdul Kader Nikki Meftah

Head office 26 avenue de la Praille 1227, Geneva, Switzerland. Tel: + 41 22 310 48 00 Fax: + 41 22 310 48 01

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ARABIA

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LANA DEL REY SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 36 > PRE-SPRING 2015

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SPRING AWAKENING

Fashion goes beautiful & bold this season

ESCAPE TO PARADISE Sur la Terre gets lost on the island of serendipity

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Sales Coordinator Masha Ivanova m.ivanova@firefly-me.com

Inside the fascinating life of today’s modern-day pin-up

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Cover image: Lana Del Rey - Rights Reserved

Logistics Manager Joseph Isaac j.issac@firefly-me.com

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- Publisher Firefly Communications PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar. Tel: +974 4434 0360 Fax: +974 4434 0359 info@firefly-me.com www.firefly-me.com

copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is prohibited. All content is believed to be factual at the time of going to print, and contributors’ views are their own derived opinions and not necessarily that of Firefly Communications or SLT. No responsibility or liability is accepted by the publishers or editorial staff for any loss to any individual or company, legally, financially or physically, as a result of any statement, fact, figure or expression of opinion or belief appearing in SLT. The publisher does not officially endorse any advertising or advertorial content for third party products. Photography and image credits, where not otherwise stated, are those of Getty/Gallo Images and/or Shutterstock or iStock Photo and/or Firefly Communications, each of which retains their individual copyrights.

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Decade Dressing

Nostalgia for the early 1970s dominated the runways this season, but, putting aside the trends, have you found your style decade? Words: Sophie Jones-Cooper

ccording to one of those magazine lifestyle surveys, I belong in the 1940s. This could perhaps be attributed to the fact that I chose Frank Sinatra over One Direction as my music of choice, and my idea of a good date was going to a concert in a park, so yes you could call me a little old fashioned, but when it comes to style and fashion, I am far from stuck in the ‘40s.

Belgian-born American fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg crosses a street, New York, New York, January 1, 1970. The man in background is the photographer's assistant. (Photo by SusanWood/Getty Images)

While I wouldn’t go so far as to label myself a retro renegade, my style is certainly more Sex and the City circa 2003 than it is World War II and the Great Depression. Yes, I do like the odd nod to the ‘60s (who doesn’t like the ease of a classic shift dress) and I have a penchant for a feminine ‘50s cinched waist, but my default style decade is definitely the noughties. This was where I spent my fashion prime – my twenties. Give me low slung hipster jeans over today’s high waisted variety, a billowing boho maxi skirt instead of the new under the knee mid hemline and ballet flats over trainers any day. In our twenties, we thrive in the fashion world. We are rid of those grotty teenage years and ahead of the realms of responsible thirty something life. We have a young body, an open mind, a comparatively carefree lifestyle and the confidence to experiment with style and for the rest of our lives, this era is imprinted on our style DNA. Just look at women like Helen Mirren, Joanna Lumley and Twiggy who spent their twenties in the swinging ‘60s and who today still sport a hint of a beehive and a pussy bow blouse and wear their trousers high waisted and skirts A-line. Or what about your fifty-five year old aunt who spent her twenties in the decade of excess, the ‘80s, alongside icons such as Michelle Pfeiffer and Madonna? I guarantee she loves a stiletto, bold shoulders, a lot of colour, statement prints and wears her jeans belted. But don’t get me wrong. Just because we label ourselves with a style decade, it doesn’t mean our wardrobe is a simple throwback to that specific era. Fashion is one big merry-go-round, and styles from every decade influence our wardrobes, not to mention the demands of our busy on the go lifestyles today. If I am feeling particularly feminine I become the image of a housewife circa 1957 or on summer holiday well, my capsule wardrobe pays homage to all things ‘70s bohemian luxe. Karl Lagerfeld in fact tells us to put aside the decades this season and embrace a ‘way of life.’ Talking about his SS15 collection he says: "They're all pieces everyone can play with. No '60s, no '70s, no whatever, more mode de vie than mode." So let’s take it from Karl. Whatever our age, whatever our style decade, whatever the trends and eras dominating the runway, let us embrace a century of style fit for every aspect of today’s modern lifestyle.

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The Edit fringe benefits

When it comes to the fun side of fringing, Charlotte Olympia’s SS15 accessory collection features animalinspired handbags and flats as well as a pair of discoready fringed turquoise wedges.

s a key player in spring’s seventies fashion throwback, fringing is back on the style agenda making its way onto bags, dresses, skirts, jackets and even shoes. The ubiquitous leather fringing (think boho meets cowgirl) is simple to style this season a brown suede skirt, soft black leather jacket or shoulder bag complete with long leather fringing will transport you right back into the heart of seventies haute hippy land. But fringing also takes on some chic new guises this season. For a new cool and somewhat glam 2015 twist, fabric tassel fringing is the way to go. Designers including Dolce & Gabbana, Celine, Proenza Schouler, Paule Ka and Louis Vuitton all opted for this lightweight elegant alternative. Or for fringing with an edgy tough luxe vibe, look no further than Saint Laurent’s Psych Rock collection. 

Every woman should own a chic black leather fringed handbag this season. Our choice – Saint Laurent.

Infusing fringing into its collection, Salvatore Ferragamo's sleek, modern, bendable clutch is the perfect arm candy to be holding by your side this season.

Alessandro Dell 'Aqua proves that fringing can be delicate, feminine and ladylike with his paillette embellished slingbacks for Rochas.

Fendi Ponchos remain a style staple this season and this Grecian inspired fringed version from Ètoile Isabel Marant (available from Net-a-Porter.com) is the ideal lightweight cover up for cool spring days.

Paule Ka

Rochas

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The Edit works of art

A Stuart Vevers’ quirky and youthful reinvention of classic brand Coach sees cartoon characters posing on totes and paint splattered across shoulder bags.

rt and fashion are certainly no strangers, but for 2015, they are set to become best buddies. The world of art is imploding on our new spring wardrobes and vice versa, with some of the biggest names in fashion taking inspiration from the paint palette and many of the worlds top art spaces turning their focus to fashion… The much-anticipated McQueen retrospective ‘Savage Beauty’ opens at London’s V&A in March following its super successful stint at the New York Met, while the National Portrait Gallery plays host to ‘Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon’ in July. The SS15 catwalks were a canvas for all things art, from bold splashes of paint and statement brush strokes to quirky pop art, whimsical watercolours and rich floral prints and edgy graphic motifs. Karl Lagerfeld thrashed a psychedelic palette of colour over skirts, boots and coat linings while Osman played with contemporary colour blocking and bold florals and Donatella Versace revamped the house’s signature Medusa motif with a cool Warholian pop art twist.

Sculpture inspired accessories offer a chic and elegant interpretation of the fashion meets art trend train. Check out Salvatore Ferragamo and Tod's for these beauties.

Never one to shy away from making a statement, Milly went for a playful artsty twist this spring.

For a hint of print, do it the Burberry Prorsum way and leave the brush strokes to your handbag.

Alexander McQueen’s SS 15 collection looks to the darker side of the paint palette combining rich black leather with striking monochromatic prints and art deco style colour blocking.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Tod’s opted for finger painting for their latest shoe collection.

Milly

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GREAT DANES CURRENT OBSESSION

editor's pick

double dribble

nown for its killer high-end leather goods and bags, KILLSPENCER, founded by LAbased industrial designer Spencer Nikosey, is taking the term courtside quite literally with a collaborative art installation with Cyrcle. The new “Ascension” piece consists of nine of their Indoor Mini Basketball Kits, all hand-painted and mounted on maple wood. Of course these are no ordinary basketball hoops – think premium leather nets with gold-foiled skirts and 24-Karat gold plated rims. The concept is rooted in the passion and perseverance of athletes and the fans who cheer faithfully for the ASCENSION of their idols. Order as a full set ($22,000) or individually; just make sure you know how to shoot them hoops first! www.killspencer.com

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Bally has jumped aboard the urban footwear wagon combining craftsmanship and streetwear cool with these standout high top sneakers, pairing multi-colour leather with suede. Available at Fifty One East, Lagoona Mall, Qatar 

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Work of Art

ot since the days of couturier Elsa Schiaparelli’s work with Salvador Dali in the 1930s has the runway been more reminiscent of a gallery exhibition. Here, four designers find brave new ways to mix art with fashion.

The Collaboration: Partnering with New York artist Enoc Perez was an easy task for Gilles Mendel – the two are close friends and even worked on a book together in 2013. For J.Mendel’s SS15 collection, the duo joined forces to bring Enoc’s abstract paintings from the frame to the frock. Enlisting the help of Italian mills, Gilles didn’t just create prints out of his confidante’s architecturallyminded masterpieces. Instead, texture was of prime importance. Furs, poplins and leathers were woven, even beaded, together in an attempt to replicate Enoc’s layered painting techniques. The result? Wearable art in its finest form.

The Mood Maker:

The Fusion:

Paris-based Each x Other doesn’t call itself a clothing brand. Instead founders Ilan Delouis, a designer, and artistic director Jenny Mannerheim refer to their three year-old company as an art-fashion label. That’s because every season the pair brings six or so artists on board to create limited edition “objets”, from books, films and of course, clothing. For spring, British sculptor Douglas White used pulled leather fringe, burnt fabric and over-dyed denim to reflect the industrial materials - think blown-out tires and burnt wood - normally found in his large-than-life pieces. 

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Donna Karan SS15

J.Mendel SS15

Donna Karan is nothing if not a true New Yorker. It should come as no surprise that the designer turned to fellow Big Apple alum, artist Jean-Michel Basquiat for inspiration this spring. Telltale signs of the late Brooklyn-born street artist and painter’s raw gestural style, his signature doodles and angular figures were incorporated into bra-tops, duster coats and full-skirted dresses for a look that even those of us without an NYC zip code can appreciate.

The Customizer:

Ever since Stephen Sprouse brought Day-Glo spray paint to canvas in 2000 for Louis Vuitton’s Monogram graffiti bags, the idea of mucking up a piece of designer arm candy has been a secret fantasy for many a handbag collector. Since we’re fairly inept with a paintbrush, we’ll leave the hard work up to Iraqi artist Sabah Arbilli who recently partnered with luxury leather goods brand Aigner to personalize the handbags of a few lucky shoppers at Doha's Blue Salon. Using the Arabic calligraphy that Sabah is known for, the artist customized Aigner Cybill bags with a verse of poetry of the customer's choosing. “We are working on a magnificent bag, which is a piece of art in itself, and our challenge was to add even more beauty to this great craft,” says Sabah. With no two bags the same, art aficionados genuinely walked away with an original.

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INSIDER SCOOP

DRESSING THEM UP Eva Boulos, designer of Assali, on "Silent Savages" the label’s SS15 collection.

KICK OFF

NEW RULES “I worked with an amazing company called 'Karolina York', who created a custom zebra and wood print for Assali, which I crafted into easy-to-wear silk dresses and tunics that can be worn from beach to bar. I also worked with artisans from India for the first time, who recreated the prints as beautiful hand embroidery.” LOOK “The Assali girl is always classic and effortlessly chic, and she is not afraid to mix up feminine with an edgier menswear silhouette.” DESIGN METHOD “I have such a diverse background, being part Haitian, Lebanese and Belgian, I find that when I design, there are certain elements that I always draw inspiration from which include my family, friends, world cultures and new adventures when I travel.”

ream team designer Mary Alice Malone and business partner Roy Luwolt, seem to know a thing or two about shoes (try one on and you’ll know we speak the truth!) with their recently launched, boldly understated label, Malone Soulier. Featuring a signature tension of retro stiletto lines and mules, their second collection pays homage to the strong female characters of Russ Meyer films; definitely making this one to add to your sole lexicon this year! www.malonesouliers.com

KICK OFF

ut a sun hat on and bring out the lemon spritzers, because we’re feeling fresh and bright just like Lilly Pulitzer’s collection for Target promises to be. The Palm Beach socialite, known for her retro inspired, vibrantly coloured 50s and 60s shift dresses, has teamed up with the American high-street giant for a 250 piece collection, out this April 19. Hot off the heels of some massive designer collaborations (Target has joined forces with some of fashion’s biggest guns; Peter Pilotto, Phillip Lim and Prabal Gurung to name a few), it’s time to dust off that rusty paypal account and get that online Ca-Ching going! www.target.com

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ON THE MOVE

on the menu

orget about those food guides compiled by so-called experts who, unbeknown to most readers, are sitting behind a desk googling away tips and pointers of what to eat and where to eat it. Produced by Phaidon Publishing, "Where Chefs Eat" is a guide by the real insiders; 600 of the world’s leading chefs spill the secrets on their favourite dining haunts. The new edition, which includes city maps, honest reviews and policies on reservations, has big shot names like René Redzepi, David Chang and Massimo Bottura showing us where they go to have a meal, with over 3,000 recommendations for everything from mustvisit breakfast spots to hush-hush neighborhood joints, all compiled into one book! www.phaidon.com

Yes, after ten long wonderful years shaping the fashion landscape in London’s Mayfair, a destination formerly known for its art galleries, Dover Street Market is moving shop to Haymarket, south of Piccadilly Circus. The retail arm of Comme des Garçons will be taking over the Burberry's old headquarters, which held their flagship store until 2007.

made in the middle east

id you know that Yves Saint Laurent was born and grew up in Oran in Algeria, or that Azzedine Alaïa left his native cosmopolitan Tunis for Paris when he was 17? New and upcoming, Dubai-based, urban street brand Ba-ll-ad is shedding light on some of fashion’s biggest names with its message-encoded, quirky take on Arab pride t-shirts. www.ba-ll-ad.com

battle of the cities Two of fashion’s biggest names fight for the region’s attention 3d

is abe

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ISABEL MARANT

She has built a cult following of boho beautiful women around the world and is now bringing her cool French chic to Dubai’s luxury fashion address, Mall of the Emirates. Get ready to join the IM tribe of oversized sweaters, printed jeans and the everyday favourite-fringed wedge boots.

erfeld

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KARL LAGERFELD

The Kaiser of fashion’s hit rock 'n' roll line has made its first debut in the Gulf, opening shop in Doha’s Lagoona Mall. With covetable pieces, including biker jackets, monogrammed Karl scarves and Choupette adorned clutches (yes that’s Lagerfeld’s eponymous kitty covering most of the accessories line), we’re sure his legions of fans, this side of the globe, will be looking super sleek this season. 

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MUSICAL CHAIRS

ashion’s biggest question mark since last December, the ‘who will fill Frida Giannini’s shoes’ turned out to be a big game of musical chairs. With names like Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci and Maria Grazia Chiuri, one half of Valentino’s creative duo, shouted as promising candidates, we also

heard whispers of Joseph Altuzarra and Tom Ford. But thankfully we didn't have to wait for Gucci's FW15 show in Milan this February to find out. The Italian fashion house has chosen Alessandro Michele, a rising talent who has been a longtime collaborator of Giannini’s, to take over the reigns!

gucci throughout the years 1990 Tom Ford joins as creative Director and makes Gucci skyrocket

1999 Luxury groups LVMH and PPR fight over the fashion house, with the latter winning the battle

2005 Frida Giannini takes the design helms as creative director for women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, becoming creative director for the entire label a year later

Gucci SS15

2004 Alessandra Fachinetti fills Ford’s shoes, but leaves after two seasons

2007 Gucci achieves astounding global success and is named the most desirable luxury brand in the world

2015 The serious question of who will take over the luxury Italian house is finally answered.

Gucci SS15

1981 Gucci stages its first ever runway show in Italy

Gucci SS15

1921 The House of Gucci opens its doors in Florence, founded by Guccio Gucci

Listen up

fter its huge success last year, the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers returns aiming to handpick the best rising new fashion talent. Offering one winner a 300,000 euro grant along with a yearlong mentorship from the LVMH team, applicants must be under the age of 40 and have presented and sold at least two women’s or men’s ready-to-wear collections. Sitting on the competition’s jury this year are nine creative directors of LVMH fashion houses - including Nicolas Ghesquière, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs and Riccardo Tisci to name a few. For more information check out www.lvmhprize.com

the year of celebrity

ove over Gisele, it’s Bieber's time to shine! Yes, you haven’t gone blind, that really is teenybobber Justin Bieber staring back at you from the latest Calvin Klein campaign. It seems that it’s not enough that they’re raking it in big time at the box-office or toping the Billboard Hot 100, but Hollywood’s darlings are now moving in on the fashion scene with their faces plastering almost every luxury label’s coveted Spring Summer 15 campaign. From Madonna for Versace (pictured), Julia Roberts for Givenchy and Nicki Minaj for Roberto Cavalli to the world’s most talked about power couple, Kimye, for Balmain, it seems like celebrities are giving models a run for their money and doing it in the most stylish way!

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UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL

Kara Ross The American jewellery designer on her first collection with Instagram's favourite fashion-meets-art illustrator, Donald “Drawbertson” Robertson. ON HOW IT ALL HAPPENED: “I had followed @DonaldDrawbertson for some time and loved his whimsical illustrations. We met on Instagram through our mutual friend, Lisa Perry. Donald teased me on Instagram and we finally decided to meet in person and the collaboration unfolded through that first meeting, starting with Donald designing the window display for our store and then to the totes.” On her favourite piece from the collection: “I love them all, it’s so hard to pick just one! I love the Lola the Lobster bag in white python which is based on the tabletop collection of lobsters I debuted this summer and also the cava ring bag since that ring is such a big part of my fine jewellery collection.” ON THE DUOS’ fascination with WHOLE FOODS: “Donald loves the idea of upcycling and the Whole Foods paper grocery bag has been a big medium for his art. He has transformed many of those bags into works of art. We decided to take it a step further and create a “Luxe” version from python, calfskin leather and waxed canvas for our collaboration.” On Instagram: “I follow a lot of stylists, fashion bloggers, editors, jewellers, nail art and furniture designers. I love the rich imagery of Instagram.” On her favourite hashtags: #diamondsandgaffertape, #lolathelobster and #gemnerds

Caption here for something about the person being featured. Caption here for something about the person being featured.

kara ross' ss15 collection can be found at Bloomingdales & harvey nichols in dubai On her current fixation with pop culture: “I am very interested in wearable tech. I just worked with the singer Will.i.am of the Black Eyed Peas on a special band for his new Puls smartwatch that makes it look like a great piece of jewellery.” On being obsessed with vintage fashion: “I am not a “label” person, I love vintage clothing. I think the word "vintage" is thrown around casually. A few designers I love are: Bonnie Cashin, vintage Pucci, Schaparelli, Halston, Zandra Rhodes.”  www.kararossny.com

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Prime time

alculating speed from one’s wristwatch has always been measured using a tachymeter scale, a figuration pilots and racecar drivers used for years before digital timers emerged. Proving that timepiece technology keeps moving forward, Breva has introduced a new solution inside its Génie 03: an actual mechanical speedometer. Dubbed as the world’s first-ever wristwatch with a functional speedometer, the Genie 03 can actually calculate speed in real time. We’re thinking this would look great on the wrists of those watch-obsessed motor heads, who can order theirs now for a cool $56,000. www.breva-watch.com

RAEY OF LIGHT

s any obsessed online shopper will tell you, finding a fashion destination that offers a mix of both luxury pieces and affordable, wear-everyday basics is hard to come by. That’s why MatchesFashion. com shoppers got excited when the fashion destination announced the relaunch of its womenswear collection, Raey, along with a menswear line under the same name, for Spring Summer 15. Designed by an inhouse team led by Creative Director Rachael Proud, the collection is rooted to a modern, minimal aesthetic with a relaxed attitude. The collection comprises luxurious, pared-down staples in a classic palette of white, navy and grey, highlighted with vibrant accents of lemon and pink. www.matchesfashion.com

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Eye spy

uxury eyewear label Linda Farrow, Bahraini designer Khaleda Rajab and Kuwaiti Fahad Almarzouq are giving us a reason to wear our sunglasses at night. The latest frames from the powerhouse collaboration are “fierce and fearless,” says Maryam Al Hamly, marketing director of online retailer The Style Chamber, which carries the brand. What to wear with shades this bold? High-tops and overalls all the way, says Maryam. www.thestylechamber.com 

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Power of Ten

hen Fiona Kotur launched her eponymous line of minaudières from the living room of her New York City apartment in 2005, she had one goal in mind: little bags with big personality. Ten years – and countless fashion fans later - her Spring 2015 collection of kaleidoscopic perspex grab bags is the embodiment of the brand’s DNA. “They are inspired by that certain 1950s American attitude in art and design that was bold, original and optimistic,” says the designer, citing Robert Indiana’s pop art signage and the flashy suits created for Elvis Presley by his personal tailors, the Lanksy Brothers, as inspiration. Using cuts of perspex that are hand assembled just like traditional mosaic, Fiona, who cut her teeth at Ralph Lauren before co-founding Tory Burch in 2004, updated the classic material by mixing solid, pearlized and laminated brocade finishes all in one rainbow design. “It’s been a rewarding journey,” says the designer of the past decade that has included the recent addition of a shoe line and her #getsmartbag, a glam yet innovative iPhone-friendly clutch that lets you place a call, take a photo or send a message without having to remove your phone from your bag. As for how the busy mother of four, who splits her time between New York City and Hong Kong, will be celebrating her tenth anniversary? “We have some things in the works for fall. You’ll have to wait and see!” www.koturltd.com

Enchanted Homecoming

abya Al Khelaifi has only been back in her native Qatar for a few months and already the Doha-born designer’s dresses are taking up prime real estate in the closets of the city’s best-dressed. The wife of a diplomat, Dabya recently moved back to her hometown after living abroad in Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lamper, London, Paris and the UAE. “It’s very interesting for me to be around people from other cultures. It’s interesting how people look at fashion and trends in other cities.” Since starting her eveningwear line in 2011, her cosmopolitan attitude has helped the selftaught designer to draw not only inspiration but also production prowess from around the globe. Using chiffon and silk from Europe with a focus on French lace, Dabya recently chose to manufacture her pieces a little closer to home - in the UAE. “I’m very happy with the quality. They are very advanced when it comes to production.” Drawing on her fascination with the rose – “I always have roses in my house!” – her Spring Summer 15 collection embraces Mother Nature’s most romantic floral in a rainbow of pastel gowns that are begging for an evening out. “You don’t dress up everyday," says the designer. "For me, it’s very unique. It’s the moment in which a woman can enjoy her femininity and this is very important to me.” 

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Dayba's eponymous line incorporates her signature fabric, French lace.

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Trend Report A whiter shade of pale, a palette of pastels and graphic black and white are spiraling their way to the top of spring’s colour wheel. 

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SPRING KALEIDOSCOPE Versace

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CUE THE CULOTTES

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The midi hemline is going nowhere this season and the coolest way to wear it as the heat rises â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a pair of culottes.

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UTILITARIAN CHIC Button up for spring with clean lines, impeccable tailoring, boxy silhouettes, pockets aplenty and an effortless air of luxe wearability. ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

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Steal your style from under the ocean and embrace whimsical sheer fabrics, shimmering sequins, whirling seascape patterns and a billowing maxi silhouette.

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URBAN MERMAID

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LUXE LEATHER From soft and supple to bold and bright, leather takes on a cool yet chic guise this spring.ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

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Take to dizzying heights in larger than life proportions with spring’s must-have chunky heels

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For a fierce and funky edge, kick it with a bootylicious number.

SHOE OF THE SEASON

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Combine two trends in one when you slip into Salvatore Ferragamo’s open toed chunky heeled mules. The canvas heel and platform will stand you in serious style stead, not to mention the versatile ‘wear with everything’ neutral hues.

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ankle straps Making a comeback, the ankle strap is the perfect accent for any sole-loving woman.

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pointy toes Sleek, sophisticated and the eptiome of lady-like glamour, we're itching to strut these around town.

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Metallics Gleaming and matte metal step into the limelight making these polished accessories a must.

BAG OF THE SEASON Chanel’s electric multi-colour knockout makes a serious style statement - no translation needed. Simply carry with pride and make heads turn.

Bright bags Burberry Prorsum

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As a single ray of colour or a bold medley of brights, handbags are hotter than hot this season

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Fresh and bold, red took centre stage on all the catwalk shows

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Rainbow bright

Stay fresh and airy with the season’s palette of lime, mint and our favourite, canary yellow

Colour’s mixed in a myriad of hues give spring that much needed style-oomph

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SLT DOES FASHION WEEK 4 FASHION CAPITALS | 28 DAYS

Image courtesy of Moez Achour

Plus countless outfit changes in the back of taxis, racing across the tuileries to catwalk shows in ridiculously high red-soled shoes and having to stop and pose along the way for tommy ton & co (remember, fashion people do not smile!) That’s not to mention – of course – the backstage shenanigans with kendall jenner (fashion’s it girl of the moment), reporting alongside the man repeller and countless after parties that you just have to show your face at – after all, you know what they say? That after the party there's always an after-after-party, so come prepared!

From red-eye flights, to jumping across the pond to make the front row at Roksanda (she dropped the "Ilincic" last month), prepping for fashion week is like training for a very stylish marathon. Here’s our guide to getting into serious preparation mode! 

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THE CLASS OF FW 2015

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Every new season brings a crop of fresh-faced rookies who descend on the runways looking to be the next big thing. We’ve done the dirty work for you, scoured the catwalks, asked the bookers and chosen our top contenders - “the ones to watch out for.” From reality star turned catwalk queen Kendall Jenner to the Campbell sisters, modeling's new dynasty duo, move our Delevingnes, here’s who you should really look out for this fall…

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#FASHIONWEEK

It’s time to brush up on your stalking skills and bring your social media A-game this month. We’ve put together the must-follow Instagram accounts ranging from our favourite fashion editors to the power bloggers you need to know. Here is where you’ll get inside access to the front row antics as well as backstage shenanigans… @derekblasberg

Derek Blasberg (@ derekblasberg) Because the dandy New York Times best selling author and coveted magazine editor knows everything and everyone note-worthy on the fashion scene. (Plus, it doesn’t hurt that he’s always surrounded by every It-Girl in town.)

@manrepeller

Cara delevingne (@ caradelevingne) The Brit model has us captivated — and in stitches half of the time – with her infectiously hilarious posts. You won’t see Naomi doing the chicken dance in drawstring sweats, now would you? Go Cara! @caradelevigne

The Man Repeller (@ manrepeller) Through her cult fashion blog, The Man Repeller, Leandra Medine narrates her daily fashion choices in a witty satirical tone that has many looking to her Instagram for hourly doses of comedic fashion relief.

Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz (@ deenathe1st) Fashion’s most prominent Saudi Royal, follow this street style photographer favourite as she travels the world in search of the next big thing for D’NA (her members-only stores in Riyadh and Doha.) @deenathe1st

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@evachen212

Eva Chen (@ evachen212) You may know her as the Editor of US magazine Lucky, but to most she’s the stylish brains behind Instagram’s #EvaChenPose – one inspired by her daily posts snapped from the backseat of a New York taxi cab.

Into The Gloss (@ intothegloss) Beauty aficionados will love following Emily Weiss as she goes behind-the-scenes, rummaging through the make-up bags – sometimes bathroom cabinets – of the famous and fashionable. @intothegloss

APPS TO KEEP YOU IN THE KNOW Stay ahead of the game with our favourite iOS downloads Moda Operandi: Picture this: you’re sitting front-row at Prabal Gurung and that little cocktail number catches your eye. Fear not, you don’t need to wait impatiently until the new season collections are out - that baby can be yours now! With Moda Operandi, the e-world’s first luxury retailer to allow members to pre-order tomorrow's styles today, you can shop straight from the runway (yes, you can do that!) within one hour of the show. Now how’s that for fast fashion? LIKEtoKNOW.IT: Have you ever scrolled through your Instagram feed and come across a jacket you just had to have? No idea where to buy it or what brand it is? Well now, you can simply sign up for LIKEtoKNOW.IT through their website then head on over and like a picture on your Instagram feed that has a “liketk.it” link. Your email will be buzzing with links to the products featured in no time. Popsugar Fashion Week: Your go-to source throughout Fashion Week, this little beauty brings you all the must-know highlights and news from Paris to Milan. With constant up-to-the-minute runway coverage as well as interviews with top designers and models, this is your insider to fashion’s busiest time of year.

SAY CHEESE!!

With cameras this way and that just ready to snap the next street style star we show you who to stop and strike a pose for Tommy Ton of Jak & Jil His favourite subjects are fashion editors, like Anna Dello Russo, who befriended the photographer and had him trail her for the first leg of his career. He now shoots exclusively for Style.com.

Bill Cunningham The legendary Times fashion photographer is still going strong at age 84, so if you manage to cross paths with Bill (as most of the fashion crowd calls him) make sure to strike a worthy pose!

Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist Call him the pioneer of street style fashion photography, this is the man who started it all.

Eddie Newton of Mr. Newton He went from DJ-ing at fashion shows to snapping fashion’s most influential, this man can be found capturing some of the best images either on the runway or off it on the sidewalk.

Adam Katz Sinding of Le 21eme We are obsessed with the bearded founder’s photo-journalistic take into the daily world of fashion. Garance Dore One of the early ones on the blogging scene, she is considered the queen of street style photography and can usually be caught side by side with hubby Scott Schuman snapping away in a frenzy.

Phil Oh of Street Peeper Capturing both the in-crowd as well as lesser-known faces, Phil has made a name for himself and has even been tagged by Vogue.com to shoot their street style features.

FASHION WEEK ETIQUETTE (Because those tips in your local guide won’t cut it!)

For those hitting up Paris, New York, London or Milan for the crème de la crème of Fashion Month, a few pointers on how to fake it and make it amongst the “in” crowd.

Excuse me, you’re in my front row seat: Language barrier or not, your spot sandwiched between Anna Dello Russo and Giovanna Battaglia was hard earned and you’d better make that fact known! Be fast with the tag: Embarrassing punctuation-filled half-hashtags are bound to follow the start of any show, so just make sure you get your Gabbana’s in order; remember it’s two B’s, One N!

Is this croissant gluten-free: Because we all know that surviving on just green juices and coconut water won’t last for long. You’re in Paris – the pastries are inevitable!

Thou shall carry a Band-Aid at all times: After all, you wouldn’t want Taylor Tomasi Hill catching you hobbling on the sidewalk trying to pull off the barefoot look – we’re not in The Hobbit...

No DMing at the after party: A total rookie mistake: you’ve finally been invited to where all the cool kids go and keeping your fingers to yourself in this paparazzo-free circle is a must. Posting something of someone that you shouldn’t is a big no no; nobody wants to get blacklisted after all.

Say no to photo bombing: We know as tempting as it may be to strike a pose beside Cara Delevigne post-Burberry as Tommy Ton snaps away, nobody likes a fashion leech, it’s so unbecoming! 

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THE #1 MUST-SEE SHOW We all love a comeback, and knowing John Galliano, it’s going to be a big one! Pen down the Maison Martin Margiela show – this is might be fashion history in the making.

3 SHOWS YOU CAN’T MISS

It’s out with the old and in with the (relatively) new! PETER COPPING Leaving Nina Ricci, the British-born designer has big shoes to fill at Oscar de la Renta.

NADÈGE VANHEECYBULSKI The former driving force behind The Row is the newly-appointed artistic director of Hermès’ women’s wear. GUILLAUME HENRY Having transformed Carven over the past five years, the designer is taking the reigns at Nina Ricci.

PREPPING 101 How to remain fresh & fabulous – From 28 days surviving on airport food, shuffling between continents, making it on the crumbs found in your overly-stuffed –now absolute messy–Fendi Peekaboo bag, staying up to the wee hours of the night meeting deadlines or rubbing shoulders with your entire Bloglovin' feed at some fashion show after-do in the Marais, we figured we’d share a few tips and tricks we have up our (perfectly rolled, mind you) Saint Laurent sleeves! Plane beauty routine: Some in-flight beauty steps are all it takes to ensure you disembark looking as well as feeling fresh. We suggest starting off with a luxurious moisturizer or serum pumped full of peptides and hyaluronic acid – this will keep your face nice and supple, nobody likes dry airplane skin after all. A cooling spray mist and drinking lots of water is key to looking human when you arrive. Blood circulation is also really important, so we recommend inflight socks, while they’re not super-flattering they definitely get the job done. Snacks to keep you going: Being constantly on the go, fashion folk usually have little time to stop and think about food. But maintaining energy levels will build up stamina and probably have you making that Alexander Wang after-party after all. We suggest starting off the day with a hero breakfast (think eggs or granola for some proper sustenance), followed by a midday green juice and some coconut water to keep nice and hydrated. Whether you have time to stop and grab anything in between, from then until midnight, is up to you and your schedule, but at least we know that the battery isn't half dead. Getting around: They say an Uber a day keeps the doctor away (as well as those nasty Fashion Week blisters!) And rushing from shows and appointments to presentations all day, we couldn’t agree more – getting from point A to point B has never been so smooth, or stylish!

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CAPTURED! Jet-setting street style photographer, Moez Achour, is becoming known for capturing the industry’s well-heeled crowd With his pictures cropping up on the Middle East’s favourite online fashion portal, Style.com/Arabia. he tells SLT how he’s doing it one fashionable click at a time. HOW DO YOU CHOOSE WHO YOU PHOTOGRAPH? I’m a street "style" photographer; the first thing I see is the style of course! If I find a big name, someone who has style as well, it’s a jackpot for me. WHO'S ON YOUR CAPTURE LIST? AND HOW DO YOU PLAN ON MAKING THAT HAPPEN? Sarah Jessica Parker or no, wait, Carrie Bradshaw. I really do not know how I can make that happen, but I’m sure I’ll find a way to get what I want. WHO ARE YOUR TOP THREE SUBJECTS? That’s a hard question but I would have to say: Model Larissa Hofmanm; member of the socalled “Russian Fashion Pack” Anya Ziourova; British Vogue's Fashion Features Director Sarah Harris. DO YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC APPROACH THAT YOU USE WHEN YOU GO UP TO PEOPLE? To be honest I don't approach people, because I’m always trying to catch a moment – something natural, real and beautiful. DO YOU ATTEND ALL THE FASHION WEEKS? HOW DO YOU MANAGE YOUR SCHEDULE? Yes, but I always skip London! It’s actually simple to schedule, shoot all the day and edit all the night – I always try to attend the biggest shows.

WHAT’S THE SCENE LIKE AT FASHION WEEK? IS THERE A LOT OF COMPETITION OVER GETTING PHOTOS? For sure! Season after season the number of photographers multiplies by 10 and our mission gets more difficult, but that's the deal; each one tries to get their vision, to catch what they need. WHAT ARE WAYS NOT TO GET PHOTOGRAPHED BY YOU? I don't like when there’s over thinking involved, when people confuse style and costume. WHAT CAMERA ARE YOU USING THESE DAYS? I use a 5D Mark|| with 85 mm; it's my partner more than my camera. WHERE DO YOU LOOK FOR INSPIRATION? Every thing is good for inspiration, but I spend a lot of time checking the runways and looking at my photography idols. TELL US, WHAT IT IS LIKE WORKING FOR STYLE.COM/ARABIA? Actually, it's a big responsibility to work for Style.com/Arabia. There are a lot of people who look at your work, so you have to keep the quality high. I get great pleasure seeing my work on a Condé Nast publication. ANY PARTICULAR PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT HAVE HAD AN INFLUENCE ON YOUR WORK? Hans Feurer; he's a god of natural light. I hope one day I’ll get the possibility to do something like him. HOW SHOULD PEOPLE POSE FOR THE MOST FLATTERING SHOT? Be yourself; create your style around yourself, not around someone else! 

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FASHION WEEK Survival Kit london

See how the arab world's hottest fashion blogger fares on cara delevingne's home turf TALA SAMMAN Fashion Blogger, MyFashDiary.com HOW DO YOU PREPARE FOR LONDON FASHION WEEK? I try to workout, eat healthy(ier!) and finish up a lot of writing work as fashion week takes up a lot of my time; so I don't have much time on the computer or to get ill!

WHERE DO YOU CATCH UP WITH FRIENDS BETWEEN OR AFTER SHOWS? I rarely ever have time to catch up with friends during fashion week but in London, Somerset House has a lot of fab cafes for a quick coffee catch up.

WHAT WILL YOU BE WEARING? People think that 'fashion people' dress oddly during Fashion week, but I always have a lot more freedom to be more fun during fashion week as I won't get as many stares as I'd probably get in Dubai...

THE BEST PLACE TO PEOPLE WATCH? Chiltern Firehouse and Cipriani post shows!

FASHION WEEK SURVIVAL LIST? Hand sanitiser, an extra charger, cereal bars, and a scarf for when it gets cold - it nearly always does!

WHAT DO YOU CARRY IN YOUR HANDBAG? My life - a box clutch during Fashion Week would never work. I'm usually gone from 7am to midnight so everything from makeup, flats to my survival list! THE BIGGEST NO-NO DURING LFW? Have fun, but don't go too crazy for attention.

THE MUST-SEE SHOWS FOR FW15? For London, Burberry of course!

THE HOTTEST INVITE IN TOWN THIS SEASON? In my opinion, the Burberry party.

HOW DO YOU FUEL UP IN THE MORNING? I tend to eat the most eggs during Fashion Week as they fill me up – eggs benedict, orange juice and a skinny latte.

WHERE DO YOU REST YOUR HEAD AT THE END OF THE DAY? London Edition hotel of course (the best for fashion week but books up very early!)

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Fendi SS15

Dolce & Gabbana SS15

Four Seasons Milan / Thuysbaert, Paul

FASHION WEEK Survival Kit milan

discover how the middle east's favourite girl about town gets by during fashion's craziest month rosemin manji Founder & Managing Director of RR&Co. Bespoke Luxury Management

HOW DO YOU PREP FOR MILAN FASHION WEEK? Check the weather first!

such a long day, so breakfast is really the most important for me.

WHAT WILL YOU BE WEARING? Vince leather leggings, Pearl & Rubies (Beirut designer) black cape blazer, Bottega Veneta embellished dress and Gianvito Rossi heels from www.matachesfashion.com (the most comfortable heels - I can last all day in these!)

WHERE DO YOU CATCH UP WITH FRIENDS BETWEEN OR AFTER SHOWS? I like drinks at the Bulgari Hotel or the Four Seasons.

THE MUST-SEE SHOWS? Tod’s, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta. Dolce & Gabbana was my favourite show last season; it was entertainment from start to finish. A beautiful collection, the show was choreographed and the models made you feel like you were in Dominico and Stefano’s world for those few minutes. WHERE DO YOU FUEL UP IN THE MORNING? I always have a big breakfast at the hotel. It’s

WHAT DO YOU CARRY IN YOUR HANDBAG? Phone charger, iPhone, Charlotte Tilbury Lipstick in Love Stone, Bobbi Brown compact powder and Charlotte Tilbury Black eyeliner. WHERE DO YOU REST YOUR HEAD AT THE END OF THE DAY? I stay at the Four Seasons or Principe di Savoia. The service is excellent and I love the old school feeling of a hotel with a lot of history.

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Gianvito Rossi

FASHION WEEK SURVIVAL TIP? Even after a long night, remove your make up! I always travel with my clarisonic face brush and Sisley Face Gommage.

THE BEST PLACE TO PEOPLE WATCH? The hotel lobby of the Four Seasons.

GARDEN STATE Plant the seed for a wardrobe in full bloom with lush floral prints, embellished buds and velvety brocade petals.

Photography by Emma Summerton/Trunk Archives Styling by Camille Bidault Waddington

Jacket, DOLCE & GABBANA | Jumpsuit, KENZO | Ring , SAINT LAURENT | Scarf, ANDREA CREWS

LEFT: Top, EMANUEL UNGARO | Rings, GIVENCHY & CHLOÉ | Skirt, OLIVIER CHATENET RIGHT: Skirt, vest, boots & earrings, LOUIS VUITTON | Blouse, OLIVIER CHATENET

Hair Stylist: Neil Moodie, Makeup Artist: Mathias van Hooff, Manicurist: Adam Slee

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Backstage at Marc Jacobs SS15

With Spring Summer 15 being the season of the lightly tousled 'do– we can vouch for how the swoosh style reigned runway supreme – our love for its arch nemesis has us splitting hairs on how to style our manes this season. Yes the Bad Bob, a term coined by a nonchalant group of bold fashion freethinkers, made a counter statement, proving that it really isn’t all about length after all. You have Tom Ford who sent out an army of shaggy rock ‘n’ roll inspired bobs, Kenzo’s homage to skater culture with manga-inspired spiky banged dos and Haider Ackermann, who gave us a slew of bowl-cut numbers to take inspiration from. Best of all, there really is no time wasted styling involved with this cool kid’s take on the bob; just a quick running of the fingers through the hair, a speedy toss and a bucket load of don’t-hate-mebecause-my-hair-looks-great attitude to pull it off. And if Kendall Jenner, fashion’s hottest new It Girl, can rock a raw textured bob the way she did at Marc Jacobs, then we think it’s time to get out the scissors. See you on the choppy side!

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Before you step into Rodarte’s over-the-knee gladiator sandals or tighten your grip on Chanel’s new Girl bag, get fresh faced with the makeup and hair trends that brightened the S / S 2015 runways.

Plum Role

If three is a trend, it might be best to call the plum coloured shadow that graced models’ lids a veritable purple reign. The regal shade was the crowning glory on many a runway, including Matthew Williamson, Derek Lam, Sophie Theallet, Guy Laroche and Vera Wang. The key to keeping the colour from verging into face paint territory is to blend, blend, blend. 1. Sephora Collection Colourful Matte Long Lasting Eye Shadow in Blueberry Mufffin 2. MAC Cosmetics Velvet Eye Shadow in Beauty Marked 3. Marc Jacobs Style Eye-con Plush Shadow in The Tease 4. MAC Cosmetics Velvet Eye Shadow in Sketch 5. Sephora Collection Colourful Matte Long Lasting Eye Shadow in Purple Stiletto

williamson

Matthew Williamson SS15

@ matthew

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Next to nothing

Leave it to Marc Jacobs, a year after launching his own makeup line, to send models down the runway with, well, no makeup. Concealer and lip balm were the only products used makeup artist François Nars. For us mere mortals who need a hit of foundation to feel complete, we’re faking the “no-makeup makeup” look with these new lightweight launches:

Marc Jacobs SS15

1) Clarins True Radiance Foundation: Light-reflecting pigments give great coverage without feeling like you’re wearing a mask. 2) Estée Lauder Perfectionist Youth-Infusing Makeup: Thanks to a built-in serum, this SPF-enriched formula corrects fine lines as it covers and brightens as it tightens 3) YSL Le Teint Encre de Peau Fusion Ink: An easy-to-blend formulation and a calligraphy-like applicator means just a little of this mattifying foundation goes a long way.

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Charlotte Ronson SS15

High Voltage Lips 1. Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in La Romanesque 2. Marc Jacobs Kiss Pop Lip Color Stick in Electric Rose 3. MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Girl About Town

1. Julep Oxygen Performance Top Coat 2. Formula X for Sephora Transformers Mind Over Matter Top Coat 2

Leave of Absence

fher rera

Carolina Herrera SS15

@ houseo

Sophie Theallet SS15

Five different shades of in-your-face pinks were used at Carolina Herrera but it was the juicy fuchsia that turned our heads. Top with a gloss for an extra hit of shine.

After countless seasons of dizzying nail art, the negative space mani is taking over. Leaving bits of nail beds free from colour means more subtle striping, like Sophie Theallet’s double French mani or Charlotte Ronson’s half moons, stand out from the crowd. Top with a high shine coat or toughen the look with a clear matte polish.

Double Duty

Kiehl’s Silk Groom Serum

Whistles SS15

Prabal Gurung SS15

Cushnie et Ochs SS15

Thanks to the team at Zac Posen, painting your lips and tips the same shade hasn’t looked this good since the days of glamour queens Lucille Ball and Princess Diana. No longer a bad word, matchy-matchy is at the top of our beauty vocabulary this spring.

How low can you go? 1947

1992

2015

Loose and wavy, polished and pin straight or double bubbled, the ponytail’s new hot spot is the nape of your neck. Only glossy strands need apply so treat locks to a shine-enhancing serum.

Walk the line

wild things

Makeup artists have yet to tire of graphic liner and neither have we. With a few flicks of the wrist, the winged look time traveled from mod 1960s-ticks at Oscar de la Renta to futuristic extremes at Cushnie et Ochs.

Lord of the rings Pop art eyes

Bobbi Brown Long-wear Gel Eyeliner

Make Up For Ever Ink Liner Matte Liquid Eyeliner

A Détacher SS15

Rodarte SS15

Vs.

Honor SS15

Too risky for 9 to 5, We dare you to get crafty and decorate your visage after dark.

Pretty in ink

Over a dozen rings decorated At Fendi, Dior and Honor, Chanel did them in 2010, model’s brow at Rodarte. thick strokes of rainbow Dior in 2012. The temporary Their mothers were happy to bright colours were tattoo trend may not be so learn they were all faux! painted across lids. temporary.

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petal pushers The latest crop of floral scents is fresh, youthful and anything but garden variety. These are not your grandmother’s buds.

From left to right: Diptyque Eau Plurielle, Penhaligon’s London Empressa Eau de Toilette, Armani Privé Pivoine Suzhou Eau de Toilette at Salam Stores, Byredo Parfums Mojave Ghost Eau de Parfum, Van Cleef & Arpels Cologne Noire Eau de Parfum from Collection Extraordinaire at Salam Stores

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Image courtesy of Rob Bailey

shower to keep things clean. Out of the shower I walk, dripping wet, to the bedroom where I style and dry my moustache with a hairdryer on cool heat, not hot, and this sets the style for me. Most days I do not use a moustache wax, just something to protect and hydrate the hairs and skin. Beard oil, beard balm are my preferred not-so-secret weapons. It’s important to treat the hairs gently and not to touch it too often after it’s styled too. I use handmade or saw-cut combs and brushes to prevent damage and carry one with me in case I need a tidy-up after eating. If you had to pick, what would your top 5 favourite moustache styles be? Hmm, tough call that. Natural handlebar is top spot for me, I much prefer a thicker, fuller moustache. The imperial moustache is a really special style, then I would say maybe the English-style moustache, which really tests a quality wax in holding tightrope straight tips. Then maybe the old faithful, let it hang down walrus-style, with maybe the petite handlebar in there, too, as keeping those in shape is a tough job.

A FUZZ ABOVE

THE REST

Running a site for the modern gentleman's grooming needs, Stuart Morse offers us an insight into his mad world of facial hair, one 'stache at a time! Why did you start "Hirsute for Happiness?" Well, to be honest the website came about as a bit of project after one of my Movember moustaches. This time around I decided that I would quite like to keep the moustache, as it had grown on me. In continuing to grow the moustache I began to suffer from the common problems of mouth invading hairs and curls that didn’t always appear to want to play. I was aware that moustache wax existed, but a cursory Internet search only gave me a few obvious online stores. I wasn’t happy and thought there must be more out there. I was very surprised to find very few that were still active, I think only three actually. Aware that I couldn’t be the only man in need of road-tested solid advice regarding moustache wax, I decided that I could become that man and so I created Hirsute for Happiness. We’re big into ‘staches here at SLT, and yours is pretty spectacular. How do you take care of it? Care of a moustache and indeed any facial hair has two schools of thought, one is just treat it like normal hair and the other is understanding that your facial hair is different and therefore needs a specific care routine. I sit firmly with the latter. My routine is something I have found works for me and might not be everybody’s ideal. I only use my soap two times a week on my facial hair, unless I happen to have got myself in a mess, and rely on water from the

You are now rocking a beard & lots of hair. Talk us through the steps you take to grow it, maintain it, etc. Indeed, my beard is at four months now and the moustache is over two years. For a long time I used to say that a beard was easy to grow, but a moustache takes real commitment and it’s often why many men with beards cut the moustache short. It can be difficult to manage but with a few simple tricks, which I cover on YouTube, you can have a moustache and enjoy it. I decided I should grow a beard, too, to see if what I was saying was true, but also to see if the product I am developing suits a beard as well, which it does. Any advice for other “growers”? My first point to make is: let your facial hair grow, whether that be a moustache or beard, goatee or partial beard. In letting it grow you will learn, firstly, if your hairs are coming in well, and also that longer hairs become more flexible allowing them to be styled more. The itch often puts people off, but this is because stubble at 2mm is as strong as copper wire and it digs into your skin causing irritation. Allowing it to grow out means it has more flex and feels softer. As it grows, learn to love what you grow, it’s your face, unique to you so love it for what it is and be proud. If you have an interest in moustaches, beards and grooming products check out Hirsute for Happiness at: www.hirsuteforhappiness.com

fast facts First time you ever shaved? I was 15 and used my Dad’s razor and old spice shave stick, I felt so grown up! Last time you shaved it all off? That would be November, 1st, 2012. This was to adhere to the Movember rules. Moustache or Beard? Moustache definitely! Who is your ‘stache icon’? World champion natural moustache Wolfgang Schneider, you must seek a picture of him. Freddy Mercury or Tom Selleck’s stache? That’s unfair! Erm Mercury owned it.

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'STACHES THROUGHOUT HISTORY FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE

The man who proved that an ordered mind doesn’t necessarily mean an orderly moustache; we guess philosophy didn’t care much for wellkept bristles.

VICTOR EMANUEL

Acknowledged as the beard for royals, this style was favoured by Italy’s king, whose ferocious bushy mass had him so tied down that he even refrained from eating at public banquets.

JOSEPH STALIN

The choice of facial hair for dictators’ of the time: thick, coarse, and – most importantly – kept in line. This is one ’stache you don't want to mess with!

STRUT YOUR WHISKERS To help you tame and care for those beloved moustaches, we went straight to Captain Fawcett Limited, the purveyor of first class gentlemen's grooming requisites. Here are the Captain's top tips for taking care of that facial hair: 1. Let it grow, let it grow, let it grow! This will give you an indication as to how quickly your beard grows and where your hair growth is strongest. 2. Use a top quality wax to train your moustache up and away from your upper lip - this will stop you accidentally chewing on your upper lip sweater. 3. Avoid applying direct heat i.e. tongs or a hairdryer to your beard as it might cause it to dry out and become brittle. Use a small natural bristle brush (Mason & Pearson is a personal favourite) to keep it presentable. 4. Patience is a virtue; as such do not be swayed from your noble objective by your girlfriend, wife or work colleagues. 5. Condition your facial hair growth with Captain Fawcett's Beard Oil. Use of the oil will also help alleviate the occasional itchiness that some experience in the second week of growing out.

"When you have sufficient facial hair by all means visit a good barber who can trim and shape your beard to your preferred style." Well done that Man. All hail the hirsute, Captain Fawcett. . sur la terre . play .

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For fans of golf, the Old Course at St Andrews, Scotland, is a place of pilgrimage; the stoic custodian of the sport’s values and tradition. True disciples can now enjoy luxury living at the spiritual home of the so-called Game of Kings. Words: By Phill Tromans

A home at the home of golf

he Game of Kings isn’t an unreasonably arrogant title; the roots of golf stretch back centuries. The Romans played a similar game using tree branches and a featherstuffed ball, and the Chinese had an ancestor of the modern game dating back from the 10th century. But golf as we know it today began in Scotland, in the early 1400s. It was on a patch of land known as linksland, between farmable ground and the sea in St Andrews, a small town south of Dundee. Shortly after its inception however, it was banned, ironically enough by the king. In 1457, King James II of Scotland was concerned that while the locals were getting pretty handy with a golf club, their archery skills were going to pot. So golf was outlawed in an Act of Parliament, and then again by more acts in the following years, described as “an unprofitable sport”. Of course, the monarchy eventually relented. How is not clear, but government records in Edinburgh from 1492 list golf as banned only on Sundays, and in 1502 King James IV was given golf clubs and balls as a present when visiting the town of Perth. Hardly a wise move if the ban were still in force. By the early 17th century golf’s popularity was spreading. In 1603 James VI of Scotland became James I of England, and when he and his entourage moved to London, they brought golf with them. From there it spread to the rest of the British Isles, and then to the world, but the spiritual home of golf remains in Scotland.

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In 1754, a local golf club was found in St Andrews. Called the Society of St Andrews Golfers, it remains today, only by a different name – the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews, and it’s one of the most important institutions in the game. Its offshoot, the R&A, is the ruling authority for golf worldwide, with the exception of the USA and Mexico. The club’s headquarters sits adjacent to the 18th hole of the Old Course, proudly overlooking the roots of a game that has spread to all corners of the globe. But next to the R&A is another building, built of imposing red sandstone and standing proud at the top of the course. In the late 1800s, a man named Thomas Hamilton decided to capitalise on golf’s growing popularity. His dream was to build Scotland’s most luxurious hotel, and in 1895 the 100-bedroom Grand 

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Hotel opened. Overshadowing the R&A building, it was the first hotel in Scotland to boast hot and cold running water in every bedroom, and the first to have a lift. In short, it was the finest hotel of the time welcoming royalty, politicians, Hollywood stars and, most importantly, winners of the famous Open golf championship.

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over the Old Course to the west and to the north the beach where the movie Chariots of Fire was filmed. The disparity dates back to the building’s roots, when the wealthier hotel guests would stay on the lower floors, and so were given the bigger apertures to look over the golf course.

past...

Most of the apartments are sold as white boxes, but fitted, appropriately, with Kohler bathroom fixtures. Kitchens are also outfitted with natural stone counter tops, stained wood cabinets and appliances. In the hallways, dedicated cupboards have been built in for golf equipment storage.

But during the Second World War, with Britain desperately fighting to keep the Axis forces at bay, the hotel was requisitioned in 1942 to house Royal Air Force pilots, and it never reopened. After the war it became student housing for the nearby University of St Andrews, but by the early 2000s, it had fallen into disrepair. ...present

Now though, the Grand has moved onto another chapter in its life. Herbert Kohler is chairman and CEO of the Kohler company, an American firm known best for its bathroom and plumbing wares. But Kohler also runs a sideline in hospitality, and Mr Kohler is mad about golf. The company already owns the Old Course Hotel in St Andrews, as well as the Duke’s Golf Course – another of the town’s 11 courses. In 2009, Kohler decided that the Grand hotel was perfect for a new project, one that would allow golf fans to buy a home at golf’s most famous locations.

Of course, such luxury and such a location do not come cheap. Prices start at $1.8 million, and the flagship four-bedroom, top-floor apartment, which includes a room in the building’s pepperpot turret, costs just shy of $12 million. The building is managed by the Old Course Hotel, and ownership of an apartment brings according benefits – priority use of the spa and dining facilities, as well as valet parking, housekeeping services and even a private chef if you’re hosting a soirée. Membership of the nearby Duke’s Golf

En ter in t o t he elega n t f oy er , modelled on t h at of 18 95 , a n d you’r e gr ee ted by one of t h r ee bu t ler s t h at a r e ava il a ble t o r eside n t s 24 hou r s a day. Course is also included – as the Old Course is publicly owned, nobody gets preferential treatment in the daily ballot for tee times.

The 26 apartments are accessible via corridors adorned with old golf clubs and memorabilia. The residences are two, three or four bedrooms in size, ranging in size from 97.8 to 158.1 square metres. Despite the age of the building, each apartment has large, open rooms that vary in style. The lower apartments have larger windows, but the higher floors get the more spectacular views

At the centre of the building, the original 19th century staircase remains in all its glory. Although refurbished, and surrounded by immaculate paintwork, the century-old characterful wear on the bannisters remains. Behind it, a multi-storey original stained glass window has also been preserved. On the sixth floor, there’s a roof terrace for residents, perfect for watching the golf tournaments on the Old Course. Downstairs, the Ham’s Hame pub and restaurant, complete with residents’ entrance, offers a traditional Scottish dining experience without leaving the building. A landscaped courtyard garden has been installed as well.

The Grand Hotel, now renamed the Hamilton Grand, has been the subject of a multi-million dollar, four-year redevelopment programme, the result of which is a series of luxury apartments that, for a golfer, are as close to the origins of the game as it’s possible to get. The complex has been completely restored and refurbished, using the original Grand Hotel as inspiration, offering what must surely be the most prestigious address in the golfing world. The finished article is quite something. Everything bar the shell of the listed building is new, but the character of the original design has been beautifully maintained. Enter into the elegant foyer, modelled on that of 1895, and you’re greeted by one of three butlers that are available to residents 24 hours a day. To the right is the member’s lounge, classically lined with dark wood, fireplaces, televisions and comfortable armchairs next to windows looking out over the 18th hole.

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Only a select few will get to experience the Hamilton Grand apartments. But if they’re mad about the sport – and you’d really have to be – they’ll have a luxurious home at the home of golf, where every morning they can open the curtains and gaze upon the place where the Game of Kings was founded.

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Archives Cartier © Cartier

JEWELLERY & WAATCHES

BLING RING!

SUR LA TERRE’S ULTIMATE GUIDE TO DOHA’S JEWELLERY & WATCHES EXHIBITION MAP - 2

THE FAIR'S FINEST- 4

BEST OF TIME - 8

WATCH & LEARN - 12

HERITAGE - 16

FRILLS - 20

DIARY - 22

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Illustration by Moona AlQahtani

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J E W E L L E RY & WATC H E S

DOHA JEWELLERY & WATCHES EXHIBITION 2015 At the beginning of spring, the city’s most prestigious will get together from the 24th to the 28th of February for the 2015 edition of Doha’s Jewellery & Watches Exhibition. Known for our peerless proficiency in selecting the most magnificent, SLT has rounded up the most exquisite of exhibitors to visit at this year’s fair. Here’s a map to guide you through the show…

MAP

AL ARDAN

AL FARDAN

ALI BIN ALI

9 10

AL MAJED

51 EAST

ALI BIN ALI

AL MAJED

4 Blue Salon

13 Al Bidaa

21 Versailles

5 Al Muftah

14 Mouawad

22 Matis

6 Amiri Gems

15 Tzarina

24 Blue Diamond

16 Malabar Gold

25 Makki Jewellery

9 Bulgari

17 Wazni

26 Al Malaika

10 David Webb

18 Tiara

27 Pari Gallery

11 Al Jaber Watches

19 Arts and Gems

28 Al Majid Pearls

12 Marzooq Al Shamlan

20 Al Zain Jewellery

34 Al Mawla

Graff

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A pendant from Garrard's Entanglement collection with a delicate bead tassel of sapphires below a gold and diamond knot

Garrard's Entanglement collection has got us all in a twist with mesmerizing sapphires Earrings from Garrard's Entanglement collection with a delicate bead tassel of sapphires below a gold and diamond knot

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Full Pave Diamond Watch

ALI BIN ALI Set to take over what is considered one of Qatar’s most luxurious events of the season, it really doesn’t come any bigger, better or brighter than Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Audemars Piguet, Omgea, David Morris, Richard Mille, Officine Panerai, Ulysse Nardin or any of the other high-end brands with which the mega-name Ali Bin Ali affiliates itself with. Founded in 1955, the luxury retail arm of the company has become so highly regarded and respected in the country, its name is now synonymous with everything and anything quality and excellence, boasting a clientele list of the most exclusive members of international VIPs, discerning debutantes and admiring aficionados alike. For those looking for the most stunning contemporary high jewellery pieces as well as quintessential quality in the realms of ultra-chic watches, do not miss out on catching a glimpse of greatness at the Ali Bin Ali stand.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Aladdin Solitaire ring in platinum with oval-cut diamond

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One of Doha’s oldest and most prominent, privately owned companies, Al Fardan has planted deep roots in the country’s luxury market, stemming from it’s humble beginnings back in 1945 to its colossal success over the years to now holding the title as one of the most renowned jewellery and timepiece distributors in the Gulf, let alone in its hometown of Qatar. A leading player in luxury, Al Fardan boasts a portfolio of some of the world’s most prestigious brands, rubbing elbows, as well as wrists, necklines and earlobes, with an impressive fleet of names such as Chopard, De Grisogono, Chaumet, Dior Jewellery, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin. 

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Piaget Rose Passion watch in 18K white gold set with 35 diamonds and 10 pink sapphires

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Earrings from Chopard’s Green Carpet collection

Chopard Happy Sport Medium Automatic Joaillerie Trio Earrings from De Grisogono’s Melody of Colours collection with white gold, rubies and amethyst

Ring from De Grisogono’s Melody of Colours collection with pink gold, pink tourmaline, white diamonds and sapphires

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Chanel Collier Spirale necklace in 18-karate white and pink gold set with a 1.3-carat brilliant-cut pink diamond

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Most insiders of the luxury industry in the Middle East are familiar with 51 East. Famous for its storied lineage as a staple in Qatar’s luxury lifestyle sector, it has firmly planted its feet amongst the country’s biggest premium product providers, a significant achievement from its establishment way back in the 1940s. Today, the name of 51 East is as exceptional as the magnificent jewels and timepieces it carries; Rolex, Armand Nicolet, H.Moser & Cie, Tudor, Boucheron and Pasquale Bruni are but a few of the prestigious names associated and carried by the group. For the 2015 edition of the exhibition, their stand promises a spectacular show; if the whisper of this year’s available collections are any indication. So if you’re looking for the most exceptional pieces in watch and jewellery, all you had to do is head east: 51 East.

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Chanel Bague Nebuleuse ring in 18-karat white gold set with 16 trapeze-cut diamonds

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster watch

Chanel Spirale earrings in 18-karate white and yellow gold set with 2 brilliant-cut yellow diamonds

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Exquisite diamond set from Bogh-Art

Patek Philippe Haute Joaillerie Aquatic Life watch

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TH E FA I R' S FI N E ST

Considered, back in the day, as one of the most prominent pearl traders the Gulf has ever seen, Al Majed Group brought entrepreneurship and ambition together in 1943 to form one of the city’s most sophisticated luxury addresses. Bringing Doha’s sumptuous, style-laden society only the most exceptional and sophisticated, Al Majed is well placed next to the jewellers with which it works with, such as, Moussaiff, Marco B, Roberto Coin and Bogh-Art. The high-end company also associates itself with timeless elegance dealing with masters of the minute like Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC Schaffhausen, Parmigiani and Hublot. Its stand showcases the best of the best at every Jewellery & Watches exhibition, becoming understandably one of its most popular exhibitioners.

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Illustrations by Ant贸nio Soares

B E ST O F TI M E

FORCES OF NATURE

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B E ST O F TI M E

THIS PAGE Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Extraordinaire watch at Ali Bin Ali Watches and Jewelry OPPOSITE Cartier D'Art Ronde Louis Cartier Filigree Panthers DĂŠcor watch at Ali Bin Ali Watches and Jewelry

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THIS PAGE Chopard Haute Joaillerie Animal World watch at Al Fardan Jewellery

J E W E L L E RY & WATC H E S

OPPOSITE Vacheron Constantin MĂŠtiers D'Art Les Univers Infinis watch at Al Fardan Jewellery

B E ST O F TI M E

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CRUNCH TIME Olympic swimmer Chad Le Clos’ day job may be hazardous to his watch collection, but after hours the Omega ambassador loves nothing more than a proper suit and something flashy on his wrist.

WATCH & LE A R N

or a man whose success can be determined by a mere hundredth of a second, timing is everything. Which is why when we met Olympic gold-medal swimmer Chad Le Clos, we made sure to arrive with time to spare. Surprisingly, the 22-year old South African and his crew were running a tad late, a perfectly acceptable situation given the superstar athlete had just spent the past week beating the clock and scooping up golds (four to be exact) at the FINA World Swimming Championships in Doha. If anyone deserves to be tardy, it’s Chad. When the Omega ambassador arrived, clad in a sharp navy suit with his Seamaster Aqua Terra London 2012 Chronograph secured firmly to his wrist – an accessible reminder of his triumphant win over Michael Phelps at the London Olympics – he wasn’t alone. His parents were sitting close by, visibly proud of their wunderkind. His father Burt has become a celebrity of sorts after his post-Olympic interview went viral (if you haven’t seen the video yet, we highly recommend you Google the feel-good moment ASAP). And even though Chad is happy to admit his family plays a huge role in his life, there is one place he isn’t taking them – on vacation. Just before he jetted off for a mini-break in Cape Town with his friends, SLT sat down with him to talk training, watches and that time he wore that shiny gold suit.

3h @chadle

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WHAT DOES AN OLYMPIAN’S SCHEDULE LOOK LIKE? I train six days a week, with nine to ten swimming sessions. My coach Graham is trying to get me to come in on Sundays, but I’m not buying that!

won’t change it. I got my green goggles right before the 2012 Olympics and I’ve worn the same colour since then, green for South Africa. I think a lot of people have started wearing that colour now, but it was me that started it.

HOW DO YOU PSYCH YOURSELF UP FOR A RACE? I always listen to my friend Ryan’s music mix before a race I know I’m going to win. I haven’t lost with it yet! You’ve got to be so focused for those two minutes, or sometimes 20 seconds. Music helps me get really pumped. More importantly, I need to be almost passive-aggressive before a race. I can’t be too relaxed.

WHAT’S THE BEST LESSON YOUR FAMILYTAUGHT YOU? Ever since I was young I was told never to quit and I think that shows in the way I race. I always fight to the end. For me, that’s more important than winning, to show character and belief. But you have to learn to lose. There’s always victory and defeat.

DO YOU BELIEVE IN LUCKY CHARMS? I’m very superstitious. If I have something that works, I

WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE AN OMEGA AMBASSADOR? Growing up and seeing Michael Phelps being sponsored by them, I thought that was very cool. To be

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associated with them is an honour and I would say we have a family type of relationship. We’ve had some really great times together. HOW DOES STYLE PLAY A ROLE IN YOUR LIFE OUTSIDE OF THE POOL? It's very important to me. If we could have swimming press conferences like the football players do, I would wear a suit everyday. My sister is always giving me grief for what I’m wearing. I think I made a mistake when I wore a gold suit [in 2012]. I’m going to blame my sister for that one. [Laughs] THE 2016 OLYMPIC GAMES IN RIO ARE COMING UP... I’ll be in the best shape of my life in Rio. I hope for my sake Michael is back. It would be nice to have a rematch!

J E W E L L E RY & WATC H E S

WH-ATCH YOU KNOW Ask any collector or watch connoisseur and they’ll tell you that, throughout the years, watchmaking has remained a highly complex science and art. Whether mechanical or electronic, there is a range of important industry terms to master before buying one of these investment pieces.

Here is a glossary to help you stay in the know.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE DUOMÈTRE SPHÉROTOURBILLON MOON COUNTER HANDS CROWN

DATE INDEX DIAL

WATCH & LE A R N

CARTIER ROTONDE ANNUAL CALENDAR

CASE BEZEL BRACELET

IWC PORTOFINO HAND-WOUND PURE CLASSIC

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J E W E L L E RY & WATC H E S

TIME'S UP

SLT gets two of the luxury watch world’s biggest names to give us an insight into their time ticking universes

MILVIN GEORGE, MANAGING DIRECTOR, OFFICINE PANERAI:

WATCH & LE A R N

ON THE MIDDLE EAST... The Middle Eastern customer wants the best value for their money that’s for sure. When they decide on a model they know what they want. Today in the region we have connoisseur collectors who are following us and are buying every single watch they can get their hands on. You have people who love the sea, who are sailors or maritime lovers so they like Panerai. You have clients who are outgoing, who follow the latest trends and are in touch with what’s in, so for them they will definitely come across Panerai. Collectors, connoisseurs and mariners are our core customers today. ON PANERAI AND THE SEA... We work a lot with vintage yachts and regattas in Europe, in the Mediterranean, which doesn’t exist in the Gulf. So for the Dubai International Boat Show, one of the oldest and most

CHRISTOPHE CHOR AO, MANAGING DIRECTOR, ULYSSE NARDIN: ON HOW WATCHES ARE STILL A NECESSITY... You have different kinds of clients: those that don't believe in watches because they have their mobile phones, and others who are high tech and won’t wear a mechanical watch. Ulysse Nardin is a brand for those who are looking to be different; it's not a mass product, we are niche producing only 25,000 pieces a year. ON THEIR FAMOUS TIMEPIECES... At the end of the 19th century Ulysse Nardin developed a new technology where we don’t use oil in the movement anymore, no more lubrication. You see, a watch is like the engine of a car, you have a mechanical part inside and just like a car you have to change the oil every 15 - 20,000 kilometers. For a watch it is the same,

you should renew the oil [we say] usually every five years but with this new technology you don’t need to change the oil at all. ON THE MIDDLE EAST... The culture and taste is changing. You have more and more watch collectors and watch lovers who appreciate the mechanical pieces. We are a niche product and our clients know that. ON THE WATCH TO HAVE THIS YEAR... There is a very specific model called Stranger, which plays the music of stranger in the night. This watch has a mechanical movement, where you have this disc turning and these seven blades jumping on the disc, creating the music with a sound that is so pure.

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established in the region, we sponsor the VIP lounge. We felt that this would be the closest way to interact with maritime lovers in the Gulf. ON THE LATEST COLLECTION... We promised our clients that we would continue our work on R&D as well as technical upgrades. So we have the chronograph collection, which we created some limited edition pieces for along with the Minerva movement. ON WHAT SETS PANERAI TIMEPIECES APART FROM THE REST... I think it’s the fact that we stay close and true to our DNA as a brand, we don’t follow a trend. We have always been a large watch even when the trend was against us. But somehow we set the trend in a way. We will continue to keep this as part of our DNA.

J E W E L L E RY & WATC H E S

editor's pick

the journal From getting whisked away to undisclosed hush-hush dinners by the Emirates favourite No. 57 girls, Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim, to our guide to 24 hours spent in New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite borough, Sur la Terre is drinking, dining and down-timing with the best of the best this issue. We also get lost with our travel crush, blogger Lucy Williams, as she explores the historic hill towns and ancient Buddhist temples that throng the island of Sri Lanka; check out her road trip musthaves for the perfect trip to serendipity.

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globetrotter Where to dine, dream and delight your senses like a local. the latest hotel openings, restaurant launches and goings-on for the global traveller.

los angeles With Elite Luxury Homes, you won’t need to pick up a map to the stars on your next visit to La La Land - you can book an evening stay (or several) in their not-so-humble abodes. An upscale version of Airbnb, the recently launched vacation rental site serves up handpicked uber-luxe estates and villas across California, including several owned by Hollywood A-listers. Extras like butler service, private jets and personal chefs are all on offer. www.eliteluxuryhomes.com

ISTANBUL Marking it’s 13th property around the world, the venerable Soho House is setting up shop in the historic Palazzo Corpi. Built in 1873, and once home to the U.S embassy and consulate general, extensive renovations of the palatial estate are set to complete this spring. Members can rub elbows with the crème de la crème of the city in the library bar, play ping-pong at dusk in the games room or catch rays year round at the rooftop swimming pool. An 87-room hotel and a rustic yet luxe Cowshed spa (complete with gym) add even more reasons to make this stylish spot a home away from home. www.sohohouseistanbul.com BARCELONA You never know where inspiration might strike but we’re betting that at The Serras Hotel, it isn’t that hard to come by. After all, Pablo Picasso painted his celebrated Science and Charity in the building, which housed his studio in 1897. And by restoring the original façade designed by Francesc Daniel Molina (the same architect behind the city’s famous Plaça Reial), a trip to this newly opened 28-room boutique hotel is like a lesson in art history. Watch super yachts pass through the new luxury Port Vell from the rooftop terrace or tuck into Catalan delicacies courtesy of Michelin star chef Marc Gascons’ seasonal tapas. www.hoteltheserrasbarcelona.com

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vancouver “Schmeckt gut” may soon be the most popular words in Gastown when Bauhaus Restaurant opens in late March. Owned by German film director Uwe Boll with former Berlin restaurateur and Michelen star chef Stefan Hartmann in the kitchen, the eatery aims to transform traditional European dishes into contemporary masterpieces. Let’s hope schnitzel with noodles still finds its way on the menu, albeit with an upmarket twist. www.bauhaus-restaurant.com

NAIROBI Nestled in one of the most

LOFOTEN ISLANDS Frozen fans (and their little ones) may not be able to resist a trip to Norway. If the frosty Scandinavian spot is on your horizon, wait to book a spot at Lofoten Opera Hotel. Once complete, the serpentine-shaped hotel will wind around the region's rocky archipelago, giving guests the sensation of being smack dab in the middle of the elements courtesy of both stunning mountain and sea views. At 11,000 square metres, it’s an ambitious project that will include apartments, a spa, seawater basins, hiking resources and an amphitheatre. www.snohetta.com

beautiful game reserves on the continent – and only a short flight from the Kenyan capital - lies the soon-to-open Angama Mara, a luxury safari lodge and the ultimate retreat for nature lovers. Inspired by the Swahili word for “suspended in mid air’, the location of the fifteen tented suites perched on the edge of the Ololoolo Escarpment offers a 180° view of the wildlife below. End-toend glass fronts, polished parquet floors, super king size beds and in-room massages put the luxe into classic African safari "tents", all modeled with a country club vibe. Not that you’ll be spending too much time indoors. Hot air ballooning plus daytime and nighttime (walking or chauffered) safaris are all available. www.angama.com

LONDON Come for the gardens but stay for the food! The much-anticipated Sky Garden has opened its doors atop 20 Fenchurch Street and rising above the lush public garden lies two new culinary destinations, Fenchurch Seafood Bar & Grill and Darwin Brasserie. Munch on naccarili caviar, loomswood duck breast and braised ox cheeks while overlooking the Thames from the impressive structure’s 36th and 37th floors. www.skygarden.london

JOHANNESBURG After an eighteen-

CAPE TOWN Sir Richard Branson has added another property to his Virgin Limited Edition Collection, Mont Rochelle. The 22room hotel and vineyard, nestled in the food and wine capital of the country, underwent a renovation before opening its doors, just in time for harvest time. Get in on the vinomaking action in March with an early morning (5:30am!) tour of the vineyards to cut the grapes with the hotel’s in-house winewaker. Grab a picnic basket lunch from the Country Kitchen and soak in the scenery. www.virginlimitededition.com

month renovation of the iconic Westfcliff hotel in Joburg’s poshest neighbourhood, The Four Seasons’ opens its door to its newest property. While the spiffy new look is picture postcard worthy, it’s Flames, their hot new braai (the local lingo for barbeque) restaurant has guests eager for a taste of char grilled goodness from executive chef Dirk Gieselmann, formerly of the famed Le Cirque in New York. It’s a fitting cuisine considering the country is so fond of the grill that they even created a National Braai Day. Sourcing all ingredients locally, menu favorites include the Wagyu beef burger with flambéed banana and ostrich tournedos. www.flamesrestaurant.co.za

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paris With so many sights to see in the City of Lights, spending hours on a traditional French meal can seriously cut into your shopping time. Chef Mathieu Pacaud, of 3 Michelin starred L’Ambroisie, aims to change the formal approach to his native land’s classic cuisine with his chic new 16th Arrondissement restaurant, Hexagone. A more relaxed, fashionable environment awaits guests, as does 1,200 different types of wine. Bon appétit! www.hexagone-paris.fr

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where in the world . . . A guide to 24 hours spent in the borough of brooklyn - because there’s more to New York than SoHo, the Meatpacking district and East Village. 3m milkbar

REST YOUR HEAD Housed in a renovated factory, the Wythe Hotel even has Manhattanites crossing the bridge to stay in its loftily apportioned rooms. And with a market-driven menu by Reynards and a rooftop watering hole with King Kong skyline views, we’re following the herd over to Brooklyn! www.wythehotel.com

LET THEM EAT CAKE THE TASTE MAKERS

CAN’T LEAVE BROOKLYN WITHOUT TRYING Here's A small list of gems that'll make your trip complete Rough Trade: Known as the giant music

meats by the pound, FS has been dubbed

store in the hood, the 15,000 square foot

the king of New York's barbecue scene;

repurposed film prop warehouse is great for

vegetarians needn’t go near!

checking out records and magazines.

Grand St. Bakery: Although there are no

The Blind Barber: More than just a

baked goods on sale, the vintage clothing and

barbers shop, the place has a French style

Danish furniture they serve up are

bistro restaurant rolling out delicious bites

certainly sweet.

and also doubles (triples?) as a bar once it

Nitehawk: With new indie releases and a

closes shop for the evening.

robust retro program, this is the perfect place

Fette Sau: Serving spectacular smoked

to catch a movie and burger.

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Fendi

Rodarte

We know that just about any little piggy will enjoy going to these markets

Dries Van Noten

A modern day Willy Wonka factory, Milk Bar is the bakery-inspired dessert branch of the Momofuku restaurant group. Headed by the ever-creative pastry chef of every child’s dreams, Christina Tosi, the place has managed to incorporate everything from marshmallows to cornflakes, bringing us madinspired creations such as the addictive Crack Pie® and Cereal Milk™ icecream (pictured above). Stop by if you have a major sweet tooth! www.milkbarstore.com

THE BROOKYLN FLEA

SMORGASBURG FOOD MARKET

CLINTON HILL FLEA

Rummage around for

For a real taste of Brooklyn,

Recently opened, the

vintage lamps, shaggy rugs

head over for some local

market carries everything

and things that you don’t

favourites like Red Hook

from Heartland Brewery’s

really need but must have.

Lobster Pound and Dough.

locally brewed ale to

This is the place to find

Definitely one of our

mouth-watering cinnamon

all those secret hidden

top things to do on the

rolls from Clinton Hill’s own

treasures that one loves.

weekend in Brooklyn!

Beigel’s Bakery.

YOU CAN’T SAY YOU’VE GONE TO BROOKLYN without knowing the names of its hottest neighbourhoods

Greenpoint, Williamsburg, Bushwick, Clinton Hill, Bed-Stuy and DUMBO

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OUT OF THIS WORLD

THE COASTS LESS TRAVELLED The teardrop island of Sri Lanka, aka “India lite” or “Little India” as some cynics might call it, is slowly putting to rest years of comparisons to its larger-than-life neighbour and making it on the to-do list of many an intrepid traveller. This is where the jet set, tired and worn out, come to escape and let their hair down, their inner boho allowed to roam free; where those visible come to be invisible. who can blame them? Historic hill towns and ancient Buddhist temples throng the island of serendipity. golden beaches on one side and lush rainforests on the other, make it a picturesque playground for culture lovers and adventurers alike, including one very stylish blonde and the brains behind fashion and travel blog, Fashion Me Now. Read on to find out about the palm-lined beaches, bargain-filled boutiques, and barefoot adventures that London-based Lucy Williams had on her trip to the island.

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Words: Lucy Williams Images: Lucy Williams and James Wright BEST BREAKFAST SPOTS Poonie’s Kitchen at the back of Mimimango in Galle was one of my favourite finds of the trip. Incredible healthy juices and superfood-based snacks in a pretty, walled garden helped this avocado-junkie get her fix.

“A f t er y e a r s on t he buck e t lis t, Sr i La nk a wa s fina lly in ou r sigh t s a n d w e spe n t t wo w eek s bef or e Ch r is t m a s e x pl or ing t he sou t h of t he isl a n d. From rolling te a cou n t ry t o t ropic a l swat hes of sa n d, t he cou n t ry wa s e v ery t hing w e e x pec ted a n d mor e .” — Lu c y Will i a m s

WHERE THE SURFER CROWD GOES Wijaya Beach is a little beach restaurant and bar near Galle that attracts lots of expats and surfers and has a great buzz and atmosphere around it without being overbearing or sceney. Go for the melt-in-your-mouth tuna carpaccio or a freshly made pizza and people watch from the terrace and sunbeds. BEST SPOT TO CATCH THE SUNSET We spent a great night at Wijaya swimming as the sun went down before ordering Arrack Sours and watching the sky turn red from the roof with friends. SCENESTER SNAPPING Cape Weligama on the southern coast is the latest luxury opening in Sri Lanka and has a huge amount of buzz around it at the moment. Stunning bungalows overlooking the bay and an enormous crescent pool make it something of a showstopper… Head to the Moon bar underneath the panoramic pool for an evening drink and some great photo ops. GETTING OFF THE GRID For some time out from the beach, visit the Mulkirigala Rock Temple near Tangalle for a culture fix. It’s over 500 steps to the top so head there around 4 p.m. to avoid the heat of the day and be rewarded with a sunset at the top. Beautiful brightly-coloured Buddhas and paintings can be seen inside the temples at intervals on your way up with prayer flags and lotus flowers dotted around in the trees. THE TEA TRAIL EXPERIENCE A few days at Ceylon Tea Trails are a must. On a working tea plantation, homey elegant bungalows line the banks of a stunning lake near Kandy. Long walks, kayaking across the lake, incredible views, delicious food, endless peace and quiet and of course lots of really, really good tea instantly put us into holiday mode. The perfect balance between doing lots and very little… HOTTEST TABLE IN TOWN Spoil yourself at the Amangalla hotel in Galle for delicious food and an old school, elegant atmosphere. Ask for a table on the terrace and sip gin and tonics under the whirling fans before tucking into scallops and steak. SHOP THE MARKETS Head to Galle for shopping. Inside the city’s walls, boutiques and craft shops line the quiet, pedestrianized streets. Try Mimimango for colourful tunics, kaftans, sarongs and jewellery made for Sri Lanka’s boho beach scene, and Barefoot for perfect presents to take home. Outside of Galle Fort, head to the fish and vegetable markets for a sensory feast and buy spices and dried vanilla to take home from The Spice Shack. THE FIXER OF SRI LANKA We organized our trip both independently and with I-escape.com and sorted transfers with Kings Tours. The cars come with wi-fi, which is always a plus for this tech addict! MOST STYLISH HOTEL Amanwella near Tangalle for the ultimate beach getaway. You often feel like you have the whole stretch of palm-lined beach to yourself and the service is like no other. The whole place feels incredibly zen and we left, very reluctantly, feeling totally renewed and very happy. Elsewhere, The Wallawwa just outside Colombo is a great boutique hotel to sleep off some jet lag after a long flight, and Kahanda Khanda near Koggala Lake is a great alternative to staying right in the thick of things while still being close enough to Galle’s beaches for day trips. Beautiful rooms, lovely fresh food and the friendliest pet dogs and cats make the place feel like a luxury home from home.

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Image courtesy of James Wright

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FAVOURITE HOLIDAY MEMORY OF ALL TIME When we went to Goa we had a few eventful moments! Our luggage was lost for the first three days and then our final hotel turned out to be under construction, stinking of sulphur and really unpleasant. We managed to book The Priest’s House at Elsewhere (pictured right) in North Goa very last minute so escaped to our new digs as soon as we could.… It turned out to be utter paradise so we ended our trip in total heaven. I’ll always remember crossing the torch-lit bridge to Elsewhere and eating prawn curry with our toes in the sand with the stars overhead feeling incredibly lucky and relieved! Opening our pale blue shutters the next morning to see an enormous, near-private stretch of beach was the icing on the cake.

travel notebook lucy williams The avid traveller loves Sri Lanka for brightly-coloured Buddhas, palm-lined beaches and really, really good tea. 3h

ms02

VACATION STYLE

Very casual (I’ve never taken a pair of heels on holiday,) simple and a bit bohemian. Jane Birken, Brigitte Bardot and Daria Werbowy are my biggest inspirations when it comes to being on holiday.

Taschen

@ lucy willia

TRAVEL BUCKET LIST

BEAUTY BAG ESSENTIALS

Costa Rica, Seville, the Norwegian Fjords, Jamaica, the east coast of America, more of the Greek Islands and Cappadocia and Istanbul in Turkey. The list goes on!

Piz Buin SPF, Lancaster Aftersun, Clarins Factor 50 for my face and Kérastase Hair Oil.

HOLIDAY ESSENTIALS

A pile of good books, my Sony RX100 and Fujifilm X100 cameras and a great travel buddy like my boyfriend Jamie.

WHAT DO YOU BRING BACK WITH YOU?

Sensi Studio available @ Net-a-Porter.com Zimmermann & Talitha kaftans available @ Net-a-Porter.com

Straw beach bags, homewares from the KK shop in Galle, printed beach trousers from Mimimango and shells collected from the beaches.

WHAT DO YOU PACK IN YOUR LUGGAGE?

Birkenstocks, Varley bikinis, embroidered kaftans, cotton shirts , LNA silk trousers and vests and vintage cut-off Levis.

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MY SRI LANKA Dubai-based fashion designer Reema Ameer still calls Colombo her home, so who better to share the Sri Lankan capital’s chicest haunts? Here’s her little black book to the city…

@ PR-H or

tonPlace

HEAD OUT Anytime between November to February when the climate is cooler and the stunning south coast is at its best.

This cute little fashion concept store is definitely quite the find amidst the growing number of boutiques in Colombo.

edited mix of local and international designer labels. It’s where my fashion line, Reema Ameer, is stocked. Buddhi Batiks, Trunk and Rithihi are also ones to check out.

SOUVENIR SHOPPING For sophisticated, less touristy souvenirs, Paradise Road and Barefoot are by far the best. For more token-like gifts head to Lakpahana or Lak salu sala.

FOODIE FAVOURITES For an authentic Sri Lankan breakfast Sugar Bistro at Crescat Boulevard in Colombo is a must-try; delicious eggs benedict with a twist are dished up at White & Co on Marine drive and the best croissants in town can be found at Café Francais.

COCKTAIL HOUR My ideal night would begin with a cocktail (Tamarind Chili Martini) and/or dinner at The Gallery Café - my absolute favourite dining spot in Colombo. Then for some alfresco partying, Sugar 41 plays the best beats in the city.

LOCAL OFFERINGS… Hoppers, string hoppers and kottu are three local dishes not to be missed. Head to either Nuga Gama at the Cinnamon Grand hotel for a more traditional experience, or just-opened Kaema Sutra to dine amongst more upmarket surroundings.

CITY SANCTUARIES The Angsana Spa is definitely the most luxe. I’d also suggest Spa Ceylon for a more authentic experience and a great foot massage!

SECRET LUXURY ADDRESS… Tintagel is a swanky little boutique hotel right in the heart of Colombo. Whether to sleep, dine or simply grab a drink at the cosy bar – it’s definitely Colombo’s place to see and be seen at. For a cute getaway, Havelock Bungalow has a charming and unpretentious vibe, without all the universal trimmings of a luxe boutique hotel.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Sri Lanka’s hill country is breathtaking. A wonderful way to take it all in is to do a tour of one of the country’s lush tea plantations. Check out Ceylon Tea Trails for a luxe experience.

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GETTING AROUND A local tuk tuk (rickshaw) will zip you around the city in no time – but that’s if you don’t mind a lil dust in your face! Otherwise I would suggest hiring a car and driver.

DESIGNER STOPS PR at 41 Horton Place in Colombo is a beautiful multi-brand boutique that carries a perfectly

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ReemaAmeer is available at www. reemaameer.com

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Imagine getting picked up and driven to an undisclosed location for a secret rendezvous dinner with a small group of the Gulf’s most stimulating creatives, for a night of good conversation and equally delicious food. The Dinner Club by No. 57, an invite-only, once-a-month event, is proving to be the hottest dish in town. Photos by: Victor Besa What is the Dinner Club by No. 57? How do people get invited? Noor: Our company name is called No. 57. We

SLT goes behind the scenes with founders, Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim, for one of their hush-hush dinners, this time at Etihad Towers in Abu Dhabi…

have the Dinner Club by No. 57 and the No.57 that is the boutique café. And why 57? It’s a secret we will never tell!(laughs) Buthaina: The Dinner Club started as a way to really market the café, the whole idea behind it was to honestly get our names out there and to introduce people to what our brand was all about. We look to invite very social people; we don’t want it to be awkward around the dinner table.

Tell us a bit about yourselves? How did you girls meet? Buthaina: Noor and I used to go to school together, a very long time ago! Noor: In terms of our personality, I’m the more crazy, stressed out person and Buthaina is very calm and relaxed. But then we’re both actually now fully merging into the same person – we’ve both taken a lot of the best traits from each other.

What inspires each dinner? Buthaina: I think mainly it’s the location that 

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really dictates what we are going to do; it helps us go crazy with the ideas we want to go for. Noor: It starts with “Oh it would really be cool to do it under the Sheikh Zayed Bridge for example or inside a bus.” Once we have the location and I go in, see the space, I know exactly what I want to do with the setup.

culture

it) that we really wanted to have one of our dinners on and we got an initial approval for it, but then for security reasons we had to find somewhere else. We are still hoping we can get it though.

Who does what? Buthaina: I’m really focused on the food and

If you had to pick your dream dinner party guests, dead or alive, who would they be? Buthaina: I have always wanted to have

the business side of things, and Noor is really purely on the design; she is a design genius. Even with our business I tend to manage that and give Noor her creative space. Noor: She’s one hundred per cent focused on the food and I never interfere and I trust her a million per cent and the same thing with design. We always take each other’s opinions.

Anthony Bourdain at my dinners. He has the most amazing personality - he’s so funny and he’s someone I want to travel with anyways, I would love to have him at the dinner table. Johnny Depp I wouldn’t mind having, also I’d love to host Leandra Medine from “The Man Repeller.” We would like to invite people with lots of personality!

Have you had any disasters? Buthaina: Every dinner of ours has a story behind it! Noor: The locations we go for are always inconvenient I guess, so we have had situations like when our generator stopped working literally minutes before the dinner – we just had to grab a bunch of candles, no one knew, they just thought we were meant to have dinner with candles as apposed to the beautiful chandeliers we had bought.

Craziest place you would like to have one of you dinners at? Buthaina: We don’t like taking no for an answer and there was actually one that got away! Noor: It’s an oil tanker (with the No. 57 on

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The Dinner Club in one word Buthaina: Unexpected I would say. Noor: Exclusive!

Italian or Asian? Buthaina: Italian. I’ll eat anything, but at the moment I am craving Italian. Noor: Italian.

Sweet or Savory? Buthaina: Savoury for sure! Noor: It has to be Savoury.

In high school, you would have been voted most likely to... Buthaina: Eat or most likely to feed; I’m always feeding people. Noor: To be an entrepreneur.

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cinema teacher of the year

Salma Hayek gives SLT a lesson in her Arabic heritage, Khalil Gibran and the power of memories.

Girl Power Moments The outspoken Latina co-founded Chime for Change, a charity focused on raising funds and awareness for education, health and justice for girls and women internationally.

alma Hayek can hold her own. Fresh from an intense interview session with eight male reporters from across the GCC, the petite actress walks over to our table at Katara and is clearly fired up after discussing the lack of movies featuring Middle Eastern women. “I said to each one of them, who is an Arab heroine to you? I told them to please write me an essay of who they would like to see as a star of a film and send it to me. Maybe we can…” She trails off, after she realises that she just assigned homework to the people who would soon be writing a review of her latest movie, an animated adaptation of Khalil Gibran's The Prophet. Despite her fierce enthusiasm, Salma is still as polite as can be. After apologising for insisting on drinking her Evian from a glass instead of the bottle – “I have to be a lady” - and gingerly sweetening her tea with pineapple bits and honey, the Mexican-born actress talks a mile a minute about her passion project. After spending the better part of her career playing roles that highlight her Latin side, the star is honouring her Arabic heritage (her paternal grandfather was originally from Lebanon) by producing and voicing the Roger Allers-

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directed film version of The Prophet. “I first saw the book next to my grandfather’s bed on his side table when I was really little. He always kept it there.” It wasn’t until her late teens, many years after her grandfather’s death, that Salma rediscovered the book. “I read it for the first time and it was a magical experience because it was as if my grandfather was teaching me things about life when I no longer had him.” Broken down into 26 poetic essays, Salma and her team concentrated on eight universal chapters set to music. Calling the book of prose a “love story with life”, Salma jumped at the chance to introduce the tale to a new generation, including her daughter with French luxury executive François-Henri Pinault, Valentina. “I heard her in the bath singing Frozen and after that she was singing [the chapter] On Children, every word of it. I got chills because I realised my daughter was reciting Khalil Gibran at age six.” It seems Valentina isn’t the only person affected by her mother’s lessons. Just as we’re wrapping up, Salma is delivered several pieces of paper. Not only had the group of journalists accepted her assignment, but they had handed it in early. A+’s all around.

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She may have been nominated for an Oscar for her role in Frida but it took ten years for her to convince Hollywood to get on board with the biopic on Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. Her production production company Ventanarosa was the driving force behind Ugly Betty, the cheeky television show about a quirky aspiring fashion editor that was adapted from a Columbian telenovela. She was honoured, alongside Gloria Steinem, as a women’s rights advocate in 2014 by Equality Now. “We need to make war against hate," she said. “I think that if you hate women you hate humanity.” In 2012, the star joined forces with friend Jada Pickett Smith to fight human trafficking. Their Don’t Sell Bodies campaign raised awareness about the exploitation of women around the world.

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pages the immortalisers

Behind every pretty face in print, there can be found a photographer or illustrator quietly capturing the moment or putting pencil to paper to document it for eternity. A bevy of books celebrating four of the style scene's most gifted narrators is hitting store shelves and we only have one thing to say: make room on your coffee table!

Horst: Photographer of Style Fashion’s first lady Anna Wintour gives her blessing to the first major book on Horst P. Horst via a plauditory foreword that honors the six decades that the GermanAmerican photographer shot for Vogue. Credited with capturing some of the most iconic images in fashion, Hollywood, art and design, this 336-page opus reveals the full breadth of the shutterbug’s talent behind the lens.

Sir, by Mario Testino

Models of Influence

Only 1,000 Testino zealots will get their hands on a signed numbered copy of the superstar's latest - and largest - book. Thanks to over 300 photos that document the evolution of the male identity over the past 30 years, those lucky chiliads will have the privilege of poring over portraits of the Peruvian photographer’s most handsome subjects, from Mick Jagger and David Bowie to David Beckham and George Clooney.

Fashion photographer and television host Nigel Barker can now add author to his CV courtesy of his latest project. Mixing his own portraits of today’s top supermodels with iconic works of his legendary predecessors from the 1940s to today (Richard Avedon, Irving Penn and David Bailey, to name a few) the dapper Brit has created a must-have companion for any self-respecting model junkie.

bloom boom Oscar de la Renta once said “Gardening is how I relax. It’s another form of creating and playing with colou\rs.” If you too yearn to stop and smell the roses every once in a while, Gardening in Arabia by former Qatar University assistant professor Shuaa Abdullah Al-Sada, is your first stop on the path to floral enlightenment. What sparked your interest in gardening? It became my passion when I married and began to travel abroad. I remember being enthralled with the beautiful window boxes full of flowers in

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London, and the brilliant landscaping in Hyde Park. I thank God that I have been given the opportunity to travel, as this has opened my eyes to a whole world of plants that I have been able to bring back with

me to Qatar. I believe I may have been the first woman in Doha with window boxes and hanging plants in my house! What advice do you have for novice greenthumbs? Be aware of the growing season here, which is winter. Many expatriate gardeners often make this mistake, as our growing season is the opposite of that in the West. Know your calendar; plant in October and enjoy your garden throughout April and May.

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Joe Eula: Master of Twentieth-Century Fashion Illustration Chanel, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior… these are just some of the legendary houses who employed Joe Eula to create runway and showroom sketches and illustrate advertisements during his over fifty-year career. Former New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn has gathered over 200 blackand-white and full-colour sketches in this stunning odyssey.

What flower brings you the most happiness? If I had to choose, it would be the Amaryllis. This is the first bulb I happened on here in Qatar. I’ve always felt that this flower has a strong personality; she’s like a confident, dependable woman. No matter how harsh the weather, every season she grows and blooms, reminding the desert that she is still here and she will persevere. www.gardeninginarabia.com

WWW.BOATSHOWDUBAI.COM Dubai International Marine Club, Mina Seyahi

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As Sur La Terre begins a conversation with Lana Del Rey, she admits last year was a hectic one. Sure enough, 2014 saw her spotted in dressed-down chic all over Europe; from the balmy shores of Italy to glamorous Monaco and the pyramid stage at the muddy Glastonbury festival. The past four years have been a whirlwind ride for the 29-year- old musician, who was catapulted from the indie scene to chart- topping fame back at the start of the decade.. Since then, the American singer has truly conquered the world.

A beautiful contradiction Words: Eva Steen

ana Del Rey’s twenties may be keeping her busy, but her younger days were hardly uneventful. Raised in upstate New York, Lana – then known as Elizabeth Grant – was sent to a strict Connecticut boarding school at 14 to conquer her adolescent habits. After what she refers to as “the wilderness years”, she returned to New York City at 18-years-old, and enrolled at Fordham University to study metaphysics, simultaneously entering the unpredictable New York music scene, a time in her life she calls “troubled but creative.” After two years of small-time gigging, Lana was offered every aspiring artist’s dream: a record contract. The singer upped sticks to a New Jersey trailer park and, two years on, her first EP Kill Kill was released by 5 Points Records, followed by her first full length album, “Lana Del Rey”, which was available on iTunes in 2010. But the singer withdrew her album just months later, buying the rights from her label. Then came a brief hiatus before she re-emerged with a new label and ‘debut’ album number two – the melancholic Born To Die. Since then Lana, complete with her sensual pout, long lashes and mane of thick, dark hair, has successfully cultivated a collection of well received tracks and a finely tuned retro-glam aesthetic. Whilst having a stylised presence is hardly new in the world of entertainment – take Beyoncé’s Sasha Fierce, Miley Cyrus’s provocative stage rebirth, or even the brilliantly bizarre world of Lady Gaga, Lana’s signature look and ‘story’ have been a source of contention. Some critics have judged her trailer trash riches-to-ragsand-back turnaround as a constructed image, but the singer is hardly short of admirers. She’s sold out arenas with her moody numbers and sensual voice - “Summertime Sadness”, “Born to Die” and of course, “Video Games” - and developed a devoted following. What’s more, if there’s ever a sure sign that someone has broken into mainstream popular culture, it’s being personally asked to perform at the Kimye wedding rehearsal

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dinner. “Kanye wanted me to come and sing and surprise Kim. I definitely wanted to be there”, she smiles modestly. “So we flew from the AMFAR reception in Cannes to Versailles, and the party was pretty much what you expected. It’s Versailles!” These days, though, you could substitute Lana’s ‘It’s Versailles!’ for any continental city. Hers is a cigarette-in-hand global whirlwind lifestyle, one where time is divided between the stage, the studio and the road. This may be ‘the high life,’ but the singer has been known to struggle. Of late, Lana’s romantic life has received a hefty wedge of column inches - there’s been her rumoured engagement to Kassidy musician Barrie- James O’Neill, an on/off split and now her supposed ties to 31-year-old Vogue photographer Francesco Carrozzini. Speculation seems to follow Del Rey like a sickly sweet aftertaste. So, it’s to be expected that whilst the American singer does noticeably relax when talk turns to music, she keeps quiet when it comes to her relationship status. Sur la Terre expected to meet a singer on the defensive – after all, the backlash after English newspaper The Guardian printed an interview where she stated “I wish I was dead already” has added to her already-awkward interview reputation. Her public image of unease may make conversation harder, but it bleeds deliciously into her lyrics. “I haven’t yet found that easy path towards happiness,” Lana shrugs, when asked about her melancholy tunes. “It’s been years since I’ve felt at peace.” Calling her trudge to happiness “the theme in my life,” she goes on to describe her uphill battle to contentment. “Happiness is not a static state, it’s an active state. That’s the ancient Greek definition,” she reflects. “It’s not a state of rest.” Instead, it’s “a process,” and one she’s steadfastly pursuing, “by being a patient person,

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Images: Rights Reserved

“Happiness is not a static state, it’s an active state. That’s the ancient Greek definition” lot of time driving around by myself and sitting in my car just thinking,” she says, describing the labour of love that resulted in “Ultraviolence”. “A lot of the music I’ve written over the last several years is a reference to the feeling I had when I was inebriated - which felt good for a while until it started to not work anymore and became very destructive.” The album’s development was spread over three cities and inspired by an unlikely partnership. “I started putting it together at Electric Lady Studios in New York before I met Dan Auerbach at a club one night by accident.” Dan, the guitarist and vocalist for The Black Keys, took a listen to Lana’s work-in-progress and opted to tone down the classic rock feel. With Lana looking for a “West Coast fusion with an underground jazz culture” mood, the duo headed to Nashville to re- record the album live.

surrounding myself with those I love and by being generous and seeking serenity.” It seems we could all take a page out of Lana’s book. The singer explains how, like many artists, she’s inspired by everything around her – as the saying goes, life imitates art and vice versa. So why the uncompromising title for her latest album, “Ultraviolence”? “I found the title before I had written almost any of the songs that are on it now,” she says. “I love the idea of having a one-word title because I think that has a beautiful simplicity.” An admirer of not only simplicity but also of opposing elements, Lana can find further similarities between herself and her titular art. “My essence is sweet but I also have this violence in my life that I’ve experienced over the last four years.” What’s more, the singer who battles “static negativity”, often finds the inspiration for her music when she is inside a moving vehicle. “I spent a

Jumping from East Coast to West then venturing South, the singer’s 1981 Mercedes convertible has bought some consistency to Lana’s nomadic lifestyle. She’ll spend hours sitting in her car in L.A. facing the shore. Calling herself a “nocturnal creature,” the real Lana comes to life after dark. “From 11:30pm, in L.A., it’s amazing to drive down Sunset Boulevard towards the ocean. There’s pretty much no one on the road and you find that you’re in your own little world on this historic street driving for miles and miles by yourself.” Close your eyes and picture Lana, smile on face, racing through the twilight hours. With an album emitting “West Coast vibes”, and a tendency to “just light up one cigarette after another,” it sometimes seems that Lana’s life is drenched in a sepia wash. The Lana Del Rey we meet is at once world weary, whimsical, and a breath of fresh air. A young woman inspired by an inner world of beautiful contradictions, she’s certainly getting something right.

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art Gallery Crawl

EMERGEAST SUGGESTS...

Whether your taste is of the lyrical, luxury or local variety, this spring there is a must-see exhibit with your name on it.

Online gallery EMERGEAST.com - created by art authorities Nikki Meftah and Dima Abdul Kader shines light on the region's hottest emerging artists. Amongst the heap of talent under their umbrella, the duo shares intimate insight on those with promising careers ahead of them. Here, they reveal two of the top shapers of the Middle Eastern art scene:

STYLE-CENTRIC Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Don’t hesitate to book a ticket to this retrospective on one of fashion’s greatest visionaries. If it’s anything like its New York run, expect a well-heeled queue outside the Victoria and Albert Museum. Trust us, it’s worth the wait just. March 14 – July 19. London

RCA Secret Dubai The Royal College of Art’s anonymous postcard experience is heading to the desert. Shop the exhibit for an original mini design by some of today’s top artists and designers (past fashion talents have included Manolo Blahnik and Burberry’s Christopher Bailey). What’s the big secret? The artist’s name isn’t handed over until you fork over payment. Surprise! March 16 – 21. Dubai

ANAS HOMSI “I always draw things I don’t know.” From: Damascus, Syria Latest exhibition: ‘Effect’, Art Circle Gallery, Beirut, Lebanon, 2014 Inspiration: The unconscious His art is: The result of everything he sees, hears and learns EMERGEAST says: His abstract works allows the viewer to lose themselves in his vibrant color palette and brushstroke. Anas’ poignant works evoke a palpable spectrum of emotions tangible in any room.

BEHIND THE MUSIC David Bowie is… Ground control to Bowie fans! The Thin White Duke is the centre of the Philharmonie de Paris’ first exhibit. Previously unreleased lyrics, recordings, photographs, drawings, instruments and costumes taken from David’s own archives document the rise (and rise) of Ziggy Stardust. March 3 – May 31. Paris

Björk Fans of Iceland’s alternative pop princess are in for a treat at the Museum of Modern Art. Drawing on over 20 years worth of sound, film, instruments and costumes, curator Klaus Biesenbach will attempt to tell the story of Bjork’s extraordinary music career. No word yet if her iconic swan dress will be on display. March 8 – June 7. New York

BOUTHAYNA AL MUFTAH “I always saw beauty in what surrounds me. I began to look for things in less obvious places.”

The Armory Show: Focus MENAM Manhattan takes on the Middle East at the city’s prestigious event, which this year highlights the Middle East, North Africa and the Mediterranean. Egyptian Omar Kholeif will curate contemporary pieces from the region’s brightest art stars. March 5 - 8. New York

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Global Art Forum The art community takes on technology at the 9th annual summit, which for the first time, will begin in Kuwait before heading to Dubai. Speakers include Jawbone founder Alexander Asseily and Google Cultural Project director Amit Sood. March 14-15, Kuwait; March 18 – 20, Dubai

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…All artworks available at www.emergeast.com

HOMEGROWN TALENTS

From: Doha, Qatar Latest exhibition: ‘Here There’ Exhibition, Al Riwaq Exhibition Space, Doha, Qatar, 2014 Inspiration: Her surroundings, her culture and heritage Her art is: A definitive spontaneous process EMERGEAST says: A highly unique artist in her style, brushstroke and subject matter, Bouthayna's star is rising rapidly so early on in her career. We can be sure Bouthayna will be regarded as one of Qatar’s most famous contemporary artists not long from now! After Bouthayna’s highly successful exhibition in Doha at the end of 2014, her works have gained notable traction.

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Maïmouna Guerresi,M-eating , Sufi

the list

18 - 21 Mar

Art Dubai Where: Dubai, UAE When: March 18 - 21 What: It’s that time of year when the creative crowd descends on Dubai for the most important week of the art calendar, this side of the world of course! Considered a cornerstone of the region’s booming art scene, (it’s where the street chic boho types and artsy cool come to mingle), Art Dubai promises a dynamic roster of around 90 galleries from the UAE and around the world, with select commissioned projects, film and radio programmes, as well as a dynamic mix of educational initiatives. We can’t wait to see Beirut’s Galerie Tanit, which will present a stimulating combination of Fouad El Khoury’s photography alongside poetry by Etel Adnan. Some of the standout solo shows during the fair include drawings by Nikhil Chopra at Chatterjee & Lal from Mumbai, and new work by the Syrian master Elias Zayat shown by Atassi Gallery from Damascus. This is one time of year you’ll want to catch up on your art, so get out your smart phones and block out those days on your e-calendars now! www.artdubai.ae

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Art For Tomorrow 2015

Sharjah Biennial

Bahrain F1 Grand Prix 2015

Where: Doha, Qatar When: March 14 - 16 What: With all eyes zoomed in on Doha, thanks wholly to one cultural pioneering woman - Sheikha Al-Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Thani - the tiny desert city is bang on the art map once again this March with the launch of The New York Times’ (yes, we told you it was big!) inaugural conference, that’ll explore the changing dynamics of art and architecture, and their potential to transform people and places. In layman’s terms, for those of us whose art-speak is not up to par, the two-day do will see some exciting conversations take part amongst a diverse mixture of figures with everyone from artists and architects to museum and gallery directors. www.artfortomorrow.com

Where: Sharjah, UAE When: March 5 – June 5 What: Whether it's the abandoned ice factory in Kalba or the former Taza chicken restaurant, the venues for the Sharjah Biennial 12: The past, the present, the possible, promise to be just as interesting as the art that they will display. And with works crossing the Emirate to sites in and around the city as well as on the Gulf of Oman, there’s no better time or excuse to hit Sharjah than during the Biennial. www.sharjahart.org

Where: Manama, Bahrain When: April 17 - 19 What: We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: the Middle East houses some of the planet’s most passionate petrol heads and Bahrain’s International Circuit (BIC) has definitely solidified itself as the so-called “Home of Motorsport in the Middle East.” Get ready for high-octane glamour as the jet set decamp to Bahrain for actual high octane action at the 2015 Formula 1 Gulf Airsponsored veteran event. www.bahraingp.com

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Dubai International Boat Show

Tennis At The Palace

International Gold & Jewellery Exhibition

Where: Dubai, UAE When: March 3 - 7 What: Let us set the scene. Imagine a mile long stretch of polished deck in the swanky Mina Seyahi marine club (Dubai’s playground for the rich and fabulous of the sea), crowded by towering super yachts 25 meters and above, and a visiting crowd with bank accounts that’ll have even those in Monaco salivating to get their hands on. Yes, DIBS is back, bigger and meaner than before and for its 23rd edition, it’s serving up a bevy of new show features dedicated to sailing, fishing, and water sports. It’s time to dust off that old captain’s hat that’s been laying in the closet and take to the seven seas! www.boatshowdubai.com

Where: Abu Dhabi, UAE When: March 12 - 14 What: It’s time to put on your Wimbledonworthy basics for what promises to be the classiest courtside affair this year. What awaits? Well, to start off you’ll be getting three days of thrilling tennis with the likes of Richard Krajicek, Pat Cash and Younes El Aynaoui just to name a few - you’ll want to write those down for naming dropping purposes later on – while mingling with the city’s chic in the lush gardens of the beautiful and ever so luxurious Emirates Palace Hotel. www.tennisatthepalace.ae

Where: Kuwait When: April 20 – 25 What: We know that we’re an easily excitable bunch over here (our abundant use of exclamation marks hasn’t helped us, we know!!) but put the words gold and jewellery in the same sentence and you will, undoubtedly, get a couple of good squeals from our end. Back for its 13th edition, the latest iteration is back to prove why the famed exhibition (one of the biggest in the region) is so beloved by its well-manicured throng of everything-that-glitters obsessed fans. Expect to have your love for bijoux reinvigorated and your credit cards on hand - this could get expensive!

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THE interview:

OSMAN

The British designer talks Madonna, Middle Eastern women and how he just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get on the social media bandwagon ď&#x201A;&#x201E; . sur la terre . features .

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met Osman before, five odd years ago when I was still a young bright thing ready to take on the publishing world. Although it was only over email, my brief encounter with an up-and-coming name in the fashion business had me fall head over heels for the industry. Now sitting precariously perched on the massive futon in the midst of the pre-opening hustle and bustle of the Per Lei Couture boutique, I feel the same rush I did at seeing my inbox fill with an email addressed from a one Yousefzada. In person, the timid character that is Osman, although quite shy, has an infectious laugh that surprises me, but instantly puts me at ease. “I’m not very good at interviews, always better over email,” he chuckles. Clad in a dapper blazer and blue denim, casually sporting a beautiful Goyard tote, he recalls how he first got sucked into the mad design world. “My mother had a dress making business and for me it really was like a drug seeing people try on clothes and it transforming them, making them happy. Then seeing this repetitively happen again and again and again. She [My mother] comes from a generation of tailors and carpenters, so making stuff is kind of in my blood.” He’s since skyrocketed into the fashion hall of

I’m quite a private person so I’m trying to get to grips with social media. It’s like yes Instagram this and tweet about that and hashtag this and hashtag that. I’m just at the basics at the moment. I don’t think I have enough time to do it all - it’s a full time job.” —Osman Yousefzada

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fame, last year dressing over 60 celebrities in Osman, including Academy Award winner Lupita Nyong'o who swears by his trousers. “The celebrity thing kind of happened by accident, it’s been absolutely phenomenal,” he says nonchalantly, “I think celebrity brings an element of awareness, it’s a beautiful woman who everyone actually knows. It’s about getting your message out really.” He looks down with pride at his iPad, where he flicks through image after image of Hollywood’s who’s who all draped in his designs. The Birmingham native is very much your typical British gentleman, but his dark colourings betray his proper English demeanour, proving his Afghan roots to be quite the cultural contender. So does he think his ethnic side comes out in his clothes? “It very much does, but it’s not very Afghan, it’s a very mishmash of cultures. You have tailoring which is a very western concept and then you have the way you make clothes which is in an Eastern element; like for instance the abbaya or the kimono. You start off by cutting in squares where you have folds of fabric being trapped in a certain way (Eastern), than bring in 

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OSMANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FAVOURITE THINGS Designer: Cristobal Balenciaga City: London / NYC SS15 Trends: Pearls Project: The Collective

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that element into tailoring (Western).” Having dropped his last name from the label, “I think Osman is easier, it’s more international, much simpler to have just one name; like Madonna or Prince,” Yousefzada hints that he’s only just getting started, showing off his growing baby The Collective, a biannual journal which he describes as ‘a dumping ground for the season.’ “Normally you just have a show, seven minutes long, and you have to develop one idea and I have too many ideas.” As we wrapped things up so he could prep for his Resort Collection trunk show at Doha’s newest multi-brand shopping destination, Per Lei Couture, I couldn’t help but wonder what he thought of the Middle East. “I think everyone is actually very aware and very sophisticated, very up to date. Women here tend to be a little bit more adventurous.” And he couldn’t be more right, after all, you know what they say; everything is bigger and better in the Arab world!

Osman sent out a bohemian SS15 collection inspired by a myriad of cultural influences. Sweet pearl embroidery covered almost everything, while geometric patchworks fought to take centre stage.

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origins

survival of the fittest

Tod’s. Just one syllable can convey a sense of refinement, upper-crust ambition and unhurried style. Nearly forty years after Diego Della Valle transformed a simple loafer into one of Italy’s most successful luxury empires, the president and founder proves adaptability is always an asset.

t isn’t hard to imagine the sighs of relief models must expel backstage at a Tod’s runway show. After a packed fashion week schedule that involves squeezing their battered feet into heels of every conceivable height, the Italian luxury purveyor’s buttery soft calf-leather loafers must undoubtedly feel like Shangri-La. This physical rendition of utopia, called the Gommino after the 133 rubber pebbles that line the flexible sole, is a staple at a Tod’s show. For Spring Summer 2015, creative director Alessandra Facchinetti introduced a new term into the brand’s design dictionary - the “spilla”, or the pin. The addition of this golden embellishment onto the vamp of the hand-sewn moccasin could serve as a symbol for Tod’s as a whole: Heritage is at their heart but adaptation is always on their mind. From the many reincarnations of the D-Bag to the hiring of buzz-worthy creative directors to oversee their ready-to-wear line (in which leather, the house’s founding fabric, is unfailingly incorporated), Tod’s has found firm footing in the theory of evolution. "It is natural,” says Tod’s president and founder Diego Della Valle from his office in Brancadoro,

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Italy. “Maintaining the DNA and heritage of our brand means keeping it alive forever.” The outspoken entrepreneur has built one of Italy’s finest luxury empires with one well-heeled foot pointed towards the future and the other deeply rooted in the artisanal past of his shoe-making ancestors, starting with grandfather Filippo Della Valle. In the early 1900s in the Adriatic region of Le Marche, Fillippo launched a small cobbling business. It was there, in the basement of his family’s factory amongst the piles of cowhides where he used to nap as a child, Diego soaked up the ingredients that would eventually become part of Tod’s secret recipe - “Be refined [with] timeless luxury, impeccable taste and enviable quality,” says Diego. At 15, under the stewardship of both his grandfather and father Dorino, the budding businessman designed his very first pair. His father grew the family business steadily, forging manufacturing deals with Calvin Klein, Azzedine Alaïa, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. It wasn’t until the end of the 1970s however, after dropping out of law school in Bologna, that

Diego made a purchase that would change both his family’s life and Italy’s definition of luxury. On a visit to New York, his eyes honed in on a pair of leather moccasins in a shop window. Crafted from rigid leather, the quality of material was as poor as the manufacturing. What interested the astute young businessman was the concept. Attached to the sole were a grid of rubber nubs used to grip the pedals of a sports car. Packing the driving shoe into his suitcase, he returned to Italy where despite his father’s assertion that the shoes were horrible, he recreated the loafer using the supple glove-like leather his family had become known for in addition to reengineering his own premium gommini grid.

professional, elegant or casual environment," says Diego. "I think this is the secret of the initial phenomenon and nowadays, the lasting success.”

Above: Tod's SS15 collection marks Alessandra Facchinetti's third season as creative director. Below: The Mini Cape bag incorporates production techniques used by saddle makers.

The result was more than just a driving shoe. It was Diego’s way of bringing the informal preppy style and casual elegance that had been dominating American country clubs to his Italian counterparts. The image that luxury goods should be saved for special occasions was shattered. Daily use was Diego’s vision. “I developed the idea of a driving shoe that could be worn in a

Legend has it that the name J.P. Tod’s (the J.P. having since been dropped by the brand) was selected by Diego at random from a Boston telephone book at the company’s inception in 1978. He has since dismissed this rumour, insisting he wanted a name that was charming yet still userfriendly, i.e. easy to pronounce. With a clear head for marketing, Diego developed a clever plan to bring his new product to the masses. He convinced a friend who was a protégé of Fiat patriarch Gianni Agnelli (who often wore driving shoes to televised races and football matches) to present his boss with a pair of Tod’s. And thus, a brand was born. Capitalizing even more on celebrity, photos of notable loafer fans Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant began appearing in ads, creating a visual history of a heritage brand overnight. It wasn’t until 1997 that Tod’s expanded into handbags and other leather goods with the launch of the D-bag. After Princess Diana adopted the structured 

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tote as her bag of choice (not as a gift from Tod’s; the trendsetter selected it on her own), they posthumously bestowed the now iconic bag with her initial. “These relationships [with celebrities] are absolutely important, especially if they are friends with Tod’s. They wear our products because they truly love them,” says Diego. Family remains at the core of Tod’s. Until his death last year at 87, Dorino oversaw quality control, riding his bicylce around the factory to monitor production. Diego’s wife Barbara Pistilli, an architect, designed the company's 85,000 square metre headquarters that includes an auditorium for lectures and exhibitions, a kindergarten for employee's children, a gym, full restaurant and a replica of a Tod's boutique. Younger brother Andrea is the vice-chairman of parent company Tod’s S.P.A. And on display outside Tod’s design workshop are Filippo’s original wooden workbench and his tools, the tools that started it all.

Above: A craftsman selects the hides used to hand-stitch a pair of Gommino loafer (middle). Below: Inside Tod's Brancadoro headquarters.

It was this family dynamic that designer Derek Lam has said kept him at the helm of the brand’s ready to wear line from when it was introduced in 2006 until his departure in 2012. With a family motto of dignity, duty and fun (also inscribed on Diego’s private jet), it’s easy to see why.

Despite the trend of many other esteemed brands to move manufacturing to less costly regions of the world, Tod’s remains Italian through and through. “The production is still based in our factory in the region Le Marche,” says Diego. “It has been improved in the last years, but it is still there - 100% made in Italy by highly skilled artisans. It is a duty for us as entrepreneurs to protect them and their skills, which are becoming rare nowadays.” These craftsmen hand-stitch 35 pieces of leather to make up a classic Gommino while exotic python, alligator and crocodile hides are reserved for premium handbags and their made-to-order J.P. Tod’s Sartorial Collection. His unwavering passion for the highest quality in the land means that Diego often uses his own two feet to test out new models before giving the ok for production. It’s these small, yet extremely meaningful, details that customers recognize when they slip into a pair of Tod’s loafers. “We have loyal customers because we are loyal to them.”

Alessandra Facchinetti filled Derek’s shoes in 2013. After stints at some of Italy’s top fashion houses including Prada and Gucci where she took over for Tom Ford, she was a clear successor. Mixing the couture techniques she learned as creative director at Valentino with her passion for unexpected colour combinations – a takeaway

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from her time at Miu Miu – she has cut, moulded and stitched her way into the hearts of leather lovers around the world. The re-emergence of leather (which Diego often refers to as the brand’s “religion”) as a seasonless material is in part due to Alessandra. The designer has incorporated supple hides into everything from tri-leather moto jackets to light-as-air tank dresses created with the same laser-cutting technique used to carve the sole of a Gommino. Bridging old world craftsmanship with modern technology is almost always an element of a Tod’s product.

. sur la terre . features .

the scene An inside tour of the parties, happenings and pulse of the Gulf's bustling capitals. See who was snapped out and about.

HIGH TEA

Zayan Ghandour, co-founder and creative director of concept boutique S*uce, hosted a light intimate lunch in honour of Vogue Brazil beauty editor, Victoria Ceridono, and international fashion & beauty blogger, Camila Coutinho, who flew to Dubai to shoot an episode for their fashion reality TV series #CamiEVictake. The beautiful lunch was prepared by culinary creatives @ faitmaisoncuisine, while the fashionable lovely ladies of Dubai mingled with the bloggers in the garden. ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

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WHAT’S IN STORE

Taking place under the stars at a private location at the Emirates Palace, Condé Nast's Style.com/Arabia and online retailer Farfetch hosted a private dinner to celebrate the retailer’s signing of prominent Kuwaiti boutiques AlOthman and Al Ostoura, their latest expansion in the Middle East.

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the scene

FRENCH FANCY

Doha’s who’s who of the fashion scene got together at the Celine boutique in Villaggio Mall for a private viewing of Phoebe Philo’s latest Spring Summer 15 offerings. 

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THE GENTLEMEN’S CLUB

Iconic Arabic-inspired jewellery brand, Bil Arabi, threw a fabulous cocktail reception in Dubai for a selected fashion crowd and the city’s top editors at China Grill at the Westin Hotel to celebrate the launch of the brand’s first ever men’s line. 

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ISLAND LIFE

After months of anticipation, Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara finally opened its doors to the public, with His Excellency Sheikh Abdullah bin Nasser Al Thani, Prime Minister of the State of Qatar unveiling the luxury brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first resort in Qatar.

THE RIDE TO VICTORY

HH Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai, won the 160-kilometre race of HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Endurance Cup presented by Longines and hosted by the Dubai Equestrian Club at the Dubai International Endurance City.

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A NOVEL DEBUT

Opening shop at one of Qatar’s most prominent luxury addresses, concept store Tanagara presented a wonderfil array of luxury lifestyle gifts and art de vivre to Doha’s high society at Villaggio Mall.

NEED FOR SPEED

Qatar's adrenaline junkies and motor enthusiasts got together at Doha’s Lusail Interventional Circuit for a one of a kind driving experience. Not holding back, they tore down the racecourse taking the newly launched Lexus RC F & Lexus RC350 for a whirlwind drive for the day.

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Our WorldWide Sales Network If you would like to advertise in Sur la Terre Arabia from outside the GCC, we are represented globally through a growing network of international sales representatives.

- Australia -

- Italy -

The Media Machine Tel: +61 89 447 2734 Email: okeeffekev@bigpond.com

Mediactiv Tel: +39 02 58322149 Email: info@mediactiv.com

- Benelux -

Mediactiv Tel: +32 2 335 1063 Email: info@mediactiv.com

- South Korea YJP & Valued Media Co., Ltd. Tel: +82 2 3789 6888 Email: hi@yjpvm.kr

- France -

- Switzerland -

Mediactiv Tel: +331 5688 2080 Email: info@mediactiv.com

Mediactiv Tel: +41 22 779 1289 Email: info@mediactiv.com

- Germany -

- Turkey -

IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH Tel: +49 8151 550 8959 Email: w.jaeger@imv-media.com

Media Ltd Tel: +90 212 275 84 33 Email: tanbilge@medialtd.com.tr

- Hong Kong -

- United Kingdom & Ireland Smyth International Media Representatives Tel: +44 (0) 208 446 6400 Email: jo@smyth-international.com

- India -

- United States of America WorldMedia Tel: +1 212 244 5610 Email: melissaworrell@worldmediaonline.com

Sonney Media Networks Tel: +852-2783-1603 / +852-2151-2351 Email: hemant@sonneymedia.com Media Star Pvt Ltd Tel: +91 22 42202103 Email: ravi@mediastar.co.in

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Covets

THE CULT CLUTCH In a region where accessories maketh the outfit, Bahraini designer, Noof Al Shekar, is marrying both bag and jewel together for her NS by Noof line, taking on Byzantine nights and architectural opulence all in one. For SS15, she brings hints of Islamic Andalucía and mother Russia to life, with a trio of architecturally inspired three-dimensional boxy clutches featuring the antique stone-clad “Shaikha,” architecturally smart “Noor,” and the “Shoug,” a geometrical tribute to a bygone era. Made from precious stones, exotic skins and beautifully dipped in 22-karat gold, it’s definitely time to forgo statement jewellery this season for one of these quietly luxurious clutches. www.nsbynoof.com

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