Editorial
In his 1957 collection of critical essays, Mythologies, French literary theorist Roland Barthes wrote the following:
“I think that cars today are almost the exact equivalent of the great Gothic cathedrals; I mean the supreme creation of an era, conceived with passion by unknown artists, and consumed in image, if not in usage, by a whole population which appropriates them as a purely magical object.” Even though this was written over 50 years ago, the sentiment behind Barthes’ words still holds true in 2012, particularly in regard to the luxury segment of the automotive world. Cars have become these great structures, these pillars of almost impossible brilliance, upon which we set the end goals of both our human aspiration and its inevitably breathtaking achievement. At the same time, they have almost become mythical creatures.
“Cars have become these great structures, these pillars of almost impossible brilliance, upon which we set the end goals of both our human aspiration and its inevitably breathtaking achievement.”
At events like the Doha, Geneva, Dubai and Frankfurt motor shows, car marques unveil brave new concepts and models to the public, and in so doing, reveal what is akin to a new species or undiscovered civilisation. Like any great structure, their designs capture the imagination and reset the rules of the aesthetic, only to be overwritten once again the following year. If then, as Barthes postulates, cars are the new cathedrals, then it is up to Sur la Terre to preach the good word! That is why we have chosen the automotive world as the tread upon which our thematic thread finds purchase this issue. With a review of the new Bentley Continental V8 and the McLaren MP4-12C, a rundown of the Geneva Motor Show and an exploration into what has made Lotus one of the most enduring names in the automotive industry, we are, in the spirit of Barthes, taking all of the pilgrimatic petrol heads to church! Of course, that doesn’t mean we are ignoring the other great saints of a luxury life well-lived. Highlights this time include two very special travel features, one extolling the divine virtues of MAIA Luxury Resort & Spa, the most luxurious spot on the Seychelles, and the other celebrating Cape Town, the home city of our very own Megan Masterson, who tells you why it was just recently named TripAdvisor’s Best Destination in the world. We also continue to rub shoulders with the clerics of celebrity, not only getting firsthand insight on the art world and trends therein from our friends at Christie’s, but also discussing the finer points of finery with Mads Kornerup, whose guru-like guidance of Shamballa Jewels has made it the go-to atelier for everyone from Jay-Z to Karl Lagerfeld. Quite possibly out most impressive content coup this time, however, is our exclusive interview with Mr. Smooth himself, Justin Timberlake, whose status of “cool” continues to rise unabated, seemingly no matter what he does! These features, along with our other great regular articles covering international fashion, exclusive events and household names in luxury, make the copy of SLT you now hold in your hands, in the words of Barthes, a “purely magical object.” Enjoy! Steve Paugh
Senior Editor
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CONTENTS
DOHA NUMBER 19
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the list A r t , c u lt u r e , l i f e s t y l e
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the scene W e r e yo u s e e n o n t h e s c e n e ?
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f o r y o u r e y e s o n ly Th e t h i n g s yo u n e e d to o w n
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st y le con fiden ti a l Th e fa s h i o n w o r l d ’ s to p
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gl obe tro t ter Yo u r g u i d e to g lo b a l l u x u r y
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rev ue We r e v i e w c u i s i n e a n d c a r s
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i n focus A u c t i o n a d v i c e f r o m c h r i s t i e ’s
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u p cl ose a n d per son a l Ta l e n t e d a n d pa s s i o n at e p e o p l e
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tr en ds con fiden ti a l Haute tim e s and high streets
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fa s h i o n Fa s h i o n ’s g a r d e n o f e d e n
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3’ s
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CONTENTS
DOHA NUMBER 19
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look book Th e b e s t lo o k s f o r g u y s
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i n mo tion Th e b e n t l e y c o n t i n e n ta l v 8
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fe atu r e Th e g e n e va m o to r s h o w
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lifestyle Th e M A I A l u x u r y r e s o r t
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b e au t y Th e f r a g r a n t g a r d e n
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m a r k e t p l ac e P r o d u c t s ava i l a b l e lo c a l ly
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or igi ns Th e s to r y o f lo t u s
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o u t o f t h e b ox Harro ds , bru n i & nou dar
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hor i z ons Th e b e a u t y o f c a p e to w n
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be t w ee n t h e li n e s Luxu ry by n u m b e r s
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girls
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“ T he wi n n er ai n ’ t the o n e with the fastest car , it ’ s the o n e who refuses to lose .” - D a l e E a r n h a r d t
the list arts and culture
FEB
11 mar6 Apr
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Gallery One
Abu Dhabi Festival
Modern & Contemporary Arab, Iranian & Turkish Art
WHEN: Daily WHERE: The Pearl-Qatar, Doha WHAT: A new one-stop spot has opened for locals looking for decorative and collectable contemporary artworks for the home or office. Gallery One, a leading retail art gallery brand in the Middle East, has picked the perfect spot at The Pearl-Qatar to showcase its unique selection. Located overlooking La Croisette marina, the gallery features art from local, regional and international artists, offering high-end collectable prints by big-name photographers as well as impressive large-scale canvas works. One of our favourite product lines is the “Signed By” section, which features prints and memorabilia signed by the subject, such as Usain Bolt’s gold track shoes. www.g-1.com
WHEN: 11 March – 06 April WHERE: Abu Dhabi WHAT: Organised by the Abu Dhabi Music & Arts Foundation, the Abu Dhabi Festival is a celebration of art and culture, bringing together incredible musicians, performers and artists from the East and West. From dance, music, film and theatre, to literature, the traditional arts and visual arts, the Festival is a cultural smorgasbord of the best the world has to offer. This year’s event pays tribute to the legacy of Abu Nasr Muhammad Al Farabi, the ninth century musician, philosopher and scientist, in Bayt Al Farabi, a series of three concerts, and has confirmed performances from one of the world’s greatest sitar players, Anoushka Shankar, and Oud master, Naseer Shamma, and the Global Music Ensemble. A full programme of events can be found at the Festival’s official website. www.abudhabifestival.ae
WHEN: 17 – 18 April WHERE: Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, Dubai WHAT: Christie’s’ two-part Modern and Contemporary Arab, Iranian and Turkish Art auction will be a treat for all serious investors and collectors. Last year’s event earned a combined US$7.3 million, and while most buyers were from the region, Christie’s has confirmed that buyers are now from as far afield as South America. The sale this year includes works by Louay Kayyali, Paul Guiragossian and Nasrollah Afjehej, and will feature pre-sale viewings from the Sunday prior to the auction. One highlight of the sale is the large-scale canvas by Afjehej entitled Wave, estimated at US$80,000 to US$120,000 and depicting the movement and energy of a crashing wave through tightly-written words that expand and contract in parallel “strands.” Another highlight is an oil-on-masonite painting of an Old Man, by Syrian master, Kayyali, estimated at US$50,000 to $70,000. www.christies.com
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APR
the list ENTERTAINMENT
30 mar6 Apr
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Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge
The Eagles
Madonna World Tour 2012
WHEN: 30 March – 06 April WHERE: Abu Dhabi WHAT: This five-day motorsport extravaganza is a rally across some of the most dramatic and demanding terrain in the world. The Desert Challenge is the season-opening round of both the FIA Cross Country Rally World Cup and the FIM Cross Country Rallies World Championship, and sees competitors from all over the world battle it out across the Liwa Desert and the Moreeb area of the aptly-named Empty Quarter with their motorbikes, quad bikes, cars and trucks. The event begins with a ceremonial start in Abu Dhabi, and fans are able to watch the action and join competitors at the Moreeb Hill Bivouac, close to the Liwa Oasis. Tented accommodation and catering, as well as attendance at the gala dinner and prizegiving can be arranged for visitors. www.abudhabidesertchallenge.com
WHEN: 12 April WHERE: The Sevens Stadium, Dubai WHAT: For the first time, The Eagles will be appearing in concert in the Middle East on the 12th April. Tickets will no doubt be in demand for this multi-award winning band that has sold an incredible 120 million albums worldwide. Glenn Frey, Don Henley, Joe Walsh and Timothy B.Schmidt will perform classic hits such as Hotel California, Take It Easy and Life in the Fast Lane, as well their solo hits, such as Don Henley’s Boys of Summer and Joe Walsh’s Life’s Been Good. With 6 Grammys under their belt, they have topped the singles charts five times and their Greatest Hits 1971-1975 is the best-selling album of all time. Book your seat soon and take a trip down nostalgia lane. www.eaglesdubai.com
WHEN: 03 – 04 June WHERE: Yas Arena, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi WHAT: She’s controversial, provocative, ambitious and the biggest selling female artist in history, and thanks to overwhelming demand, Madonna will perform her World Tour 2012 in Abu Dhabi for two nights only. Following a record sell-out of her 3rd June show (tickets sold out within 24 hours), a second and final concert has been added to the legendary diva’s schedule. There are VIP hospitality packages for those who want to truly experience the best of the Material Girl’s performance, including a Golden Circle ticket, exclusive tour gift, official tour programme, a dedicated VIP reception, private entrance to the concert site and a VIP parking pass. Be sure to book your spot to see one of the greatest live acts of all time. www.thinkflash.ae
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thE liSt LIFESTYLE
15-17
20-21 APR
MAy
Dubai International Horse Fair
Middle East Film and Comic Con
International Jewellery & Watch Show Abu Dhabi
WHEn: 15 – 17 March WHERE: Dubai International Convention & Exhibition Centre, Dubai WHAT: The one equine event sure to attract thousands of visitors this year is the annual Dubai International Horse Fair. The event, now in its 8th year, showcases almost everything related to horses and the equine industry, including the widest range of international equine products, services, equipment and technology, from leading local and international companies such as Al Awani, Dubai Equine Hospital, Jebel Ali Race Course and Shadwell Estate. It also includes supplier presentations and demonstrations in dressage, show jumping and falcon displays, riding classes, pony rides and an equestrian art exhibition. With its strong traditional roots in a region rich with horsemanship and sporting equestrian history, this is a must-attend. www.dihf.ae
WHEn: 20 – 21 April WHERE: Mina Seyahi Hall, Dubai International Marine Club, Dubai WHAT: Look! up in the sky! It’s a bird! It’s a plane! no, it’s... the first ever Middle East Film and Comic Con! From the 20th to the 21st of April, the world’s greatest defenders of truth and justice will converge upon the Dubai International Marine Club to save the worlds of comic book geeks, anime nerds, manga dorks and shut-in film snobs. The MEFCC will have something for everyone, including the usual convention stuff like action figures and other collectibles, science fiction films and of course, comic books and graphic novels. There will also be more mainstream fare for weekend heroes, like pop art displays and epic gaming sessions, as well as the requisite autograph signing sessions from industry giants. To keep up with the quickly-developing goodness of the Gulf’s first Comic Con, make the official website your loyal sidekick. www.mefcc.com
WHEn: 01 – 05 May WHERE: Abu Dhabi national Exhibition Centre WHAT: This exclusive and high-end jewellery and watch event celebrates its 20th anniversary this year with a line-up sure to delight the most avid collector and connoisseur. For five days, from 4pm to 10pm, the world’s leading brands will be showcased across three halls at the Abu Dhabi national Exhibition Centre. More than 140 exhibitors representing countries such as Brazil, Italy, Japan, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, the uAE, united Kingdom and the uSA, will display their rare and breathtaking pieces for an appreciative audience. From diamond and gold jewellery and luxury designer watches, to pearls and precious and semi-precious stones, you’re sure to find something that will make your eyes sparkle. www.jws.ae
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Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition —
T he S u lta n s of Bli ng ret u r n ed to the D oha E x hibitio n — ce n tre to show off their wares as the 9 th D oha J ewellery & Watches E x hibitio n got u n derway.
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3 1. Eric Loth, Founder of Graham 2. The beautiful girls of Van Cleef & Arpels 3. Pedro de Aranda, Chairman and CEO of Prologue Group 4. Pascal Mouawad, Former Miss Universe, Natalie Glebova, and Fred Mouawad 5. Milvin George, Brand Manager at Panerai
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Infiniti Showroom Launch —
S aleh A lhamad al M a na C o. lifted the hood o n its lu x u riou sly appoi n ted n ew i n fi n iti showroom i n qatar .
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5 1. Nadia Gaoua and Julia Toon 2. Gilles Normand and Hisham Al Mana 3. Raja Bou Said, Suhaib Ziadan and Omar Sinno 4. Hisham Al Mana, Gilles Normand, Infiniti Corporate Vice President (AMEI) and Kamal Al Mana 5. Gilles Normand presents Hisham Al Mana with a special gift to celebrate the opening 6. The Infiniti G37 Sedan makes its debut on the runway 7. A harpist and violinist set the mood
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London Fashion Week —
Dedicated followers of fashio n desce n ded o n lo n do n i n february for fashio n week . as u s ual , s u r la terre ’ s style mave n , S ophie J o n es - cooper , a n d photographer , lottie ettli ng , were there to capt u re the class .
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1. Fashionistas from around the globe flocked to London for its A/W 2012 Fashion Week 2. Model Rosalind Jana rocks spring’s candy colour blocking trend 3. Looking sleek in the city, Jessica Psaila and Timothy Popob 4. Downton Abbey’s Laura Carmichael and Michelle Dockery sit with Marilyn star Michelle Williams in the front row at Mulberry 5. The Mulberry A/W 2012 show finale 6. TV presenter and model Alexa Chung en route to the Marios Schwab show 7. Stylist and blogger Elina Galuga
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Maya La Chocolaterie Opening —
T he sweet life comes to qatar as the re n ow n ed chocolaterie ope n s its V illaggio bou tiqu e .
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1. Dora Evangelaki and Elena Ene 2. Maya team from left: Mr Nelson, Mr Aref, Mr Tamer, Houssam Chouman and Ahmed Gamal 3. Chocolate lollipops waiting to be enjoyed. 4. Houssam Chouman and Dany Dagher 5. Cynthia Souhaid, Hiyam Souhaid and Nehal Maher 6. Nothing says “I love you” better than a heart-shaped box of Valentine’s chocs 7. Sigrid Rath, Efi Liataki, Elena Ene and Dora Evangelaki 8. Mr. Khalil Al Niss, Dany Dagher
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Al Gassar Resort Opens —
T he latest lu x u ry lifestyle desti natio n ope n s o n D oha’ s W est Bay waterfro n t
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St. David’s Day Celebrations —
The first day of M arch saw the inaugural revival of Doha’s W elsh Society a nd Eisteddfod - style celebrations for St — David’s Day, sponsored by Shell , Clogau G old a nd QDC .
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5 1. Nollceig, Sally, Sara and David 2. Gareth Lewis, Janet Beckham-Evans and Angela Evans 3. Angus, Sue Dunkley and Julia Calleja 4. Jane, John, Kevin and Carolyn 5. David Holdway, Leni Toladana, Tony Rees and Tony Williams 6. A traditional Welsh Harpist welcomed the guests 7. One of the event’s organisers, Alun Griffiths poses with the harpist 8. Lee, Darryl, Glyn, Jacky, Lee and Laura
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wElCoME to a world whErE MoNEy iS No oBJECt aNd Cool CoMES at a PriCE. FyEo iS a MillioNairE’S ShoPPiNg liSt that givES you aN iNSidE traCk to thE thiNgS you NEEd to owN.
tiME-oNdS arE ForEvEr >>> We love it whenever world record-breaking jewellery house Mouawad rolls into town for the Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibiton, because they always satisfy our lust for luxury with some of the most expensive - and creative - bits of bling around. We have had bejewelled footballs bearing the Qatar 2022 logo, gemstone bikinis and, who can forget, the most expensive handbag in the world, the 1,001 nights Purse. Well this year they did not disappoint either! As well as showing off its stunning re-imagining of Rolls-Royce’s Spirit of Ecstasy hood ornament ( SLT17), made to celebrate the Centenary of the famous “Flying Lady,” the company unveiled its uS$6.8 million Snow White Princess Diamond Watch. Crafted from 18-carat white gold and meticulously layered with 233 colourless diamonds of varying sizes, the watch’s gems weigh in at a staggering 106.93 carats! The stones are also some of the most pure flawless cut-diamonds in the world, and quite stunningly large, too. Without a doubt, Mouawad can expect another visit from the folk at the Guinness Book of World Records some time soon. www.mouawad.com
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Flight Of Fancy >>> The first of a Parmigiani Fleurier double header, this one of a kind objet d’art was unveiled at the DJ&WE. Entitled “Falcon”, the piece encapsulates Parmigiani’s watchmaking brilliance, as well being an interpretation of the Middle Eastern tradition of falconry. Worth $4.11 million and crafted in a style inspired by Art Deco, the bird is depicted mid-swoop, about to pounce on its prey, the bustard. The polished silver falcon’s wings and cap on its head are highlighted by 6,000 brilliantcut diamonds in a drop setting, while its beak and talons are made of gold. The bustard ultimately cannot evade the falcon, which seizes it six times every hour. Perched on a block of smoky quartz, which depicts the desert landscape, the falcon relentlessly pursues its prey. The cage supporting the base, also in smoky quartz cut into a 70 kg block of glass from Brazil, is made from silver, chased with a rosette pattern and set with specially-cut white and chocolate baguette diamonds. www.parmigiani.ch
Bugatti Bling >>> Parmigiani also unveiled a Limited Edition Bugatti Type 370 watch, which has been given a, quite literally, “sparkling” facelift. The Type 370 watch was originally created as a tribute to the high-flying creative spirit behind the Bugatti Veyron super car, with a subsequent model being created for the World Record-holding Veyron Super Sport ( SLT12 ). Like its pace-based predecessors, this bejewelled version offers an ultimately more feminine treatment, but still uses the incredibly unique and revolutionary transverse movement pioneered by Parmigiani. Only six pieces have been created so far, and each comes with an 18-carat white gold case encrusted with 130 brilliant-cut diamonds and a white mother of pearl dial. All of this is capped by the choice of either a calfskin or black alligator strap from Hermes with an 18-carat white gold Ardillon buckle. Priced at $349,838, the Type 370 is as rare as the cars that inspired it and, very nearly, as expensive. There are only one or two models left, so you might need the speed of a Bugatti Veyron to get to the Al Majed Jewellery showroom before they are all sold out. www.parmigiani.ch
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Driving Glasses >>> Tapping into our Motoring theme, we bring you one of the priciest pairs of sunglasses we have ever featured here in the hallowed pages of your favourite lexicon of luxury. Rocking your pocket to the tune of $41,500, these aviator-style shades are the latest accessory for the owners of Bentley automobiles. Commissioned by the Crewe-based car maker to complement its flagship luxo-barge, the Bentley Mulsanne, the limited-edition shades are already adorning the eyes of Hong Kong millionaires and at least one member of the Dubai ruling family. Created for the car-makers by Austrian eyewear d’art specialists Estede, with lenses from Zeiss, the shades are hand-crafted from platinum with surfaces engraved to emulate the style of a Bentley’s interior quilted leather. Each pair is made to order and measured to fit the wearer. The frames can either be engraved with the owner’s initials or decorated with precious stones, including diamonds, at extra cost, and all frames come emblazoned with Bentley’s famous “Flying B” logo in polished enamel. Only 100 pairs will be made and each will be stamped with its own unique number, but fear not, other models are available in 18-carat yellow, rose or white gold for just $10,200. All models include a bespoke presentation case, fashioned from the the same fine leather hide that adorns the wearer’s car seats. www.bentleymotors.com
Music Box >>> Audio-video supremo Bang & Olufsen has launched a new line of products under the banner B&O Play. The collection starts with this, the Beolit 12, a strikingly beautiful compact music player designed to target the hip, tuned-in digital music generation. With an emphasis on contemporary and less formal design, the Beolit 12 looks like a picnic basket, a cool box or a mop bucket, but with James Bond stealth, this innocuous looking block of plastic contains enough cutting edge technology to make even Q’s head spin. Designed by Danish-born Cecilie Manz, Beolit 12 harnesses Apple’s AirPlay technology in order to play music or radio wirelessly from your iPod, iPhone, iPad, Mac or PC, when connected to the same wireless network. Its built-in power supply and rechargeable battery ensures you can tote it around with you wherever you go, meaning you can listen by the pool or on the beach while the iProduct happily stays safely out of the melty Doha sun. Better yet, the multifunctional rechargeable battery allows you to charge your iPhone or any other connected device, while still pumping out the tunes. Available from B&O outlets and selected Apple Stores, this bucket-shaped boom box is priced at around $1,000. www.beoplay.com
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Driven By Design >>> It is well known that Ralph Lauren loves rare and beautiful cars. Since the Paris exposition of his finest models, it is even clearer that he views them as functional works of art, and no other car exemplifies this than his Bugatti T57SC Atlantic Coupe. So inspired was he by this incredibly rare automobile, one of just four in the world, that for 2012, he designed this Automotive watch, with its wooden dial that employs the same elm burlwood of the T57’s dashboard, a steel bracelet and is studded with rivets that will draw comparisons with the body-length “fin” of the iconic car. Using a movement from IWC, the 44.80 mm watch has a convex sapphire crystal face that covers a dial reminiscent of the speedometer in the T57, and a water resistance to 50m. This beautiful $13,400 watch may hark back to the days of the great grand touring cars of a bygone age, but is truly a modern masterpiece of haute horologie. www.ralphlaurenwatches.com
Functional Flamboyance >>> Objets d’art tend to be pretty useless; that is, they are pretty, but generally have no use other than they are nice to look at. However, you are about to discover the work of critically acclaimed silversmith, Kevin O’Dwyer, a man who produces functional, yet stunningly-crafted pieces that will definitely start a susurrus of approval from your sybarite dinner guests. The 59-year-old Irishman’s angular creations include tea sets (like the teapot pictured from his Architectural series), coffee pots, condiment collections and table centrepieces, all of which range in price from $1,300 to $40,000. All of the pieces and collections are unique, limited to a maximum of ten sets and all incorporating elements of his Ireland home, such as 4,000-year-old bog yew or the same stone that was used in Neolithic Irish structures. Custom pieces can also be commissioned and you will be in good company if you do place an order; his work has been snapped up for a place in the permanent collections of, to name just a few, The High Museum in Atlanta, The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, The Ulster Museum in Belfast, The Stolichany Bank in Moscow, The Company of Goldsmiths of Dublin and the Governor’s Palace of Liege in Belgium. www.millenniumsilver2000.com
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style confidential
fashion 1,2,3 They say things come in threes, so we have selected fashion’s top threes for the new season and beyond
The New Faces 1. Cameron Diaz for TAG Heuer
After her stunningly elegant red carpet moment at the Oscars (we loved both the cream Gucci gown and eye-popping orange Victoria Beckham she slipped into for the after party), it comes as no surprise that Cameron Diaz has been snapped up as brand ambassador for one of the world’s most luxury brands, though not, as you might expect, for fashion, but for the TAG Heuer Lady Link watch collection. “It is modern yet timeless, sexy and elegant,” explains Cameron. “I’m equally comfortable wearing it on the red carpet or in my day-today life,” something which is important to Cameron. “I want a watch that is more than just a timepiece, it should be like my favourite piece of jewellery.”
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2. Lana Del Rey for Mulberry
She made the front cover of the March issue of UK Vogue, the front row at Mulberry’s AW 12 catwalk show and is now one of the frontrunners in the race for the title of “it” bag of the season thanks to the Mulberry handbag she inspired – the Del Rey. “It’s an honour that such a classic and prestigious brand would name a bag after me,” explains Lana.
3. Charlotte Casiraghi for Gucci
The beautiful daughter of the Princess of Monaco and granddaughter of beauty icon Grace Kelly, Charlotte Casiraghi is the new face of Gucci for their Forever Now campaign, which over the next two years will celebrate the Italian house’s renowned icons. It appears there is a mutual appreciation between the two. “Charlotte brings the spirit of Gucci to life so elegantly,” says Frida Giannini, Gucci’s Global Creative Director, while Charlotte adds, “I admire Frida’s talent as a designer and she has really managed to reinvent the codes of Gucci by giving them a modern twist and a timeless elegance.”
. sur la terre . style confidential .
THE COLLABORATIONS
THE ACCESSORIES-NEON
When you combine the design talents of print maestro Peter Pilotto with swimwear designer Lisa Marie Fernandez, the result is a gorgeous swimwear collection fit for even the most sophisticated and sporting underwater adventures. (Available from Net-a-porter.com)
We couldn’t agree more with Marc Jacobs, who stated: “the ultimate accessory is a man to carry your bags” (his Paris catwalk show for Louis Vuitton saw porters carrying the bags for the models). However, if you have to settle with another type of accessory this summer, then make sure it is neon. Seen all over the streets of the London, New York and Paris Fashion Weeks, make sure you add at least one neon accessory to your new season wardrobe.
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New York fashion designer Anna Sui has designed two limitededition versions of Coach’s classic Duffle Sac bags.We love the boho chic vibe she has brought to the iconic bag. (Available from Coach this autumn)
Keep things old school and ditch the diary on your smartphone for one of British designer Alice Temperley’s gorgeous creations for Filofax. The Guinea and The Affair come complete with personalised additions such as recipe, market and festivals recommendations. (Available from www.filofax.co.uk)
Tory Burch
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Peter Pilotto..
Anna Sui ..
Topshop...
The ones to watch... Filofax..
And one for luck! Amidst the hype surrounding Mary Katrantzou’s collection for Topshop, comes another collaboration from the budding British designer, this time for French handbag brand Longchamp. For SS 12, the queen of dazzling prints has designed two gorgeous totes each of which sports vibrant and colourful eastmeets-west digital prints.(Available from Longchamp)
1. Not only do we need to thank Dolce & Gabbana for helping us look and smell great, but with news of the launch of their very first bike – the leopard print Animalier, could it be that Stefano and Domenico will even help us look chic while cycling this summer? Very sporting of you. 2. New York fashion designer Oscar de la Renta is turning his hand to make-up. His collection, Essential Luxuries, will be made up of six lipsticks and six nail polishes (three of which he showcased at his recent AW 12 show). 3. Where do we start with 2012’s game of designer musical chairs? To sum up, Jil Sander is back at the creative helm of her eponymous label following the departure of Raf Simons. Hedi Slimane is taking over at Yves Saint Laurent and his first show is due in June with the resort collection, while Jean Paul Gaultier has been named Creative Director of Diet Coke. Potentially the biggest news of the season, however, and the last piece of the jigsaw will be whether or not Marc Jacobs ends up at Dior. The verdict is still out…
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GlOBe trOtter
Where: neW york WhAT: the mUSeUm of modern art (moma), print/oUt WheN: from 19 feBrUary to 14 may 2012 www.moma.org
Where: panama WhAT: internationaL fiLm feStiVaL of panama WheN: from 26 apriL to 2 may 2012 www.iffpanama.com
Where: monaCo WhAT: grand priX f1 of monaCo WheN: from 24 to 27 may 2012 www.grand-prix-monaco.com
gloBal gathEriNgS
Global Gatherings is your at-a-glance map of magnificence, directing you to all of the culturally essential, entertaining and luxurious events and happenings that will be taking place across the world (or perhaps, we should say, “sur la terre�) over the coming months.
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Where: London WhAT: nationaL portrait gaLLery, LUCian freUd WheN: from 9 feBrUary to 27 may 2012
Where: pariS WhAT: frenCh open tenniS WheN: from 27 may to 10 JUne 2012 www.rolandgarros.com
www.npg.org.uk
Where: moSCoW WhAT: the moSCoW goLf ShoW WheN: from 20 to 21 apriL 2012 www.moscowgolfshow.ru
Where: BerLin WhAT: gaLLery Weekend WheN: from 27 to 29 apriL 2012 www.gallery-weekend-berlin.de
Where: geneVa WhAT: artgenĂˆVe WheN: from 25 to 29 apriL 2012 www.artgeneve12.ch
Where: miLan WhAT: miLan image art fair WheN: from 4 to 6 may 2012 www.miafair.it
Where: VeniCe WhAT: 4th arSenaLe deLLa danZa WheN: from 30 JanUary to 17 JUne 2012
Where: Singapore WhAT: Singapore artS feStiVaL WheN: from 18 may to 3 JUne 2012 www.singaporeartsfest.com
www.labiennale.org
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GLOB E TR OTTER
nightlife
SHOPPING
f.Bar & Lounge Tokyo
Lissa Boutique
Where: Tokyo, Japan GPS: 35˚ 39’ 24.77” N, 139˚ 44’ 06.92” E
Where: Chicago, USA GPS: 41˚ 53’ 46.63” N, 87 ˚ 38’ 09.15” W
It’s okay, you can admit it. Fashion TV is your guilty pleasure. We understand. You watch it, see the hot fashions parading down the runway, with red-carpet footage of the plush after parties and you wish you were able to mingle among fashion’s finest. Now you can, but you have to go to Tokyo to do it. Into its second year of operation, f.Bar Toko is a decadent and opulent venue, which provides the gorgeously elite of Tokyo a place where they can really shine. The cosmopolitan crowd includes models, fashion designers and anyone associated with the business of beauty. Hit it up earlier in the evening for a light meal of Mediterranean delicacies, and watch the venue transform from lively restaurant into a throbbing club lounge, complete with flashing lights and a live DJ. It can also host private events and like all good Japanese clubs, f.Bar also offers private karaoke rooms where patrons can belt out their favourite songs in style, and, of course, for the truly elite, there is a VIP room that allows the socially exclusive to party in private. www.fbar.jp
Garnering much critical acclaim from the off, Lissa has quickly become Chicago’s destination clothing boutique for hard-to-find, fashion-forward pieces. Catering to a discerning shopper seeking unique products, owner, Melissa “Lissa” Shipley, ensures that the store maintains a specific focus on emerging designers. Lissa offers a well-edited selection from the industry’s emerging designers and “under-the-radar” lines. The modern and sophisticated, edgy yet refined collections span the globe, plucked from New York and Chicago, as well as international destinations such as Brazil and Sweden. Mandy Coon (whose collection is pictured above), Rodebjer and Kaal E Sukate are just a few of the designers you will find along the walls of the clean, minimalistic store layout, which also offers a heightened appreciation for the art of fashion, that is fitting really as, adding to the boutique’s cool credentials, Lissa is located in the heart of the River North gallery district, where the best of Chicago’s fine art, design showrooms, restaurants and nightlife converge. www.lissachicago.com
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HOTEL
restaurant
Corinthia Grand Hotel
é by José Andrés
Where: London, UK GPS: 51˚ 30’ 21.52” N, 0˚ 07’ 28.40” W
Where: Las Vegas, USA GPS: 36˚ 06’ 33.89” N, 115˚ 10’ 24.90” W
The location of the Corinthia Grand Hotel in London’s Whitehall Place could not be more prestigious. Literally a few minutes from 10 Downing Street and close to world-class cultural institutions such as the National Gallery and Royal Opera House, London’s lavish and illustrious past is brought right up to modern-day luxury standards with 21st century comfort nestling among some of the most spacious and sumptuous suites in the British capital. Based in an eminent building, with a rich history and dating back to 1885 and the Empire days of Queen Victoria, the Corinthia blends the beautifully restored original facade with inspiration from world-class designers that have created vast lobbies and high ceilings to create a hotel on the cutting-edge with iconic public spaces flooded with natural light. If that doesn’t tempt you into making a booking, then the massive suites, with spectacular individual rooftop vistas over the grand old dame of capital cities should be enough to take your breath away. With 294 opulently-appointed rooms and suites, stylish destination bars and speciality restaurants, together with the city’s largest spa and wellness facility right on the lazy waters of the Thames, this is truly one of the best places to call home during your London visit. www.corinthia.com
If you are looking for a seriously fine example of molecular gastronomy, as well as one of the most exclusive dining experiences in the world, then look no further than é by José Andrés. We say look no further, but the venue is a well-hidden eatery and one of the hottest dining tickets on the Las Vegas Strip. Based somewhere in the Cosmopolitan Hotel, to understand é, you need to understand the man himself, “I have had restaurants where I served hundreds, even thousands of people a week, but as a chef-artist there are certain things you cannot do for the masses.” At é, there are just two seatings of eight diners, only five nights a week. It is one of the world’s hardest reservations to secure, and if you do, you are sent Golden Tickets. Half-circle tables surrounded by surrealist furnishings are attended to by three chefs and three servers. There are 15-plus small plates on the evening’s set menu and a big show is made of their preparation. Reservations are only available via the e-mail address on the website’s homepage a month in advance, unless you want to guarantee your place by booking the entire room for a mere $3,000. www.ebyjoseandreas.com
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r evu e foo d
The Grill from Ipanema For being Steve Paugh’s new favourite place to meat and greet.
Very often, my fellow Americans are looked upon with derision throughout the international community for what is perceived to be a fundamental lack of understanding in basic societal constructs. These include, but are not limited to, the following: geographical acumen, sporting event etiquette, complex mathematics and of course, “wit.” Whether or not any of this is true is subject for debate amongst the red-coated supercilious, the “ironically” mustachioed and Al Jazeera, but conversely, there is at least one notion upon which I believe we can all agree for better or worse, and that is this: Americans can eat.
of the Americas, I am quite well-versed. For those of you not “in the know,” a churrascaria is essentially a Brazilian steakhouse known as much for its plentiful and varied cuts of meat as for its “rodízio” style of service, wherein the waiting staff saunter from table to table armed with an unwavering feeder mentality and large swords of skewered and freshly sizzling meats.
As is evidenced by my home country’s uncontested standing as the world’s most obese nation, one thing we do know how to do successfully is consume massive quantities of food. What can I say? Consumption is in our blood ... which sounds like something we should probably have looked at. Along the same lines, another thing we know well ... is meat. Thus, it was no surprise when, in a bid to fit type, I, the lone Yank at Sur la Terre, was chosen to review what promises to be Doha’s ultimate “meAting” place - the Brazilian churrascaria, Ipanema.
When Steve and I arrived at Ipanema, it was already simmering with a potent social marinade, peppered with lively conversation and feverish mastication - an impressive feat for a place, which, at press time, is still operating under a “soft opening” capacity. Of course, it’s not surprising that so many people are already hungry to frequent Ipanema. The energy at Qatar’s first authentic churrascaria is instantly noticeable, and is as pungent as the smells wafting lustfully from its kitchen.
Luckily, I would not have to face the seemingly insurmountable challenge of eating my weight in meat alone, as I was happily joined by a dinner guest, who, quite coincidentally, is both American and named Steve. Join me then, fair and hungry reader, as on behalf of myself and my fellow countryman, friend and colleague, Mr. Stephen Riechelman, I invite you to join me for a flavour-filled, beef-brimming dinner, the scope, taste and scale of which I have never before experienced here in Qatar. Prepare yourself for the bromantic journey I like to call ... “A Stevening for Two.” To set the scene appropriately, I should first describe what is at the heart of Ipanema, a concept with which, thanks to its longstanding inclusion within the culinary landscape
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Bright, modern and vivacious, the interior stretch at Ipanema heralds its guests’ journey as every good quest should - with a drink at the bar! Helmed by its head tender, Martin, whose spin on the classic Caipirinha, the traditional Brazilian aperitif, should NOT be missed, the bar is Ipanema’s inaugural highlight, thanks to the Brazilian band that now rocks the house on a nightly basis. However,
“I t ’ s not su rprisi ng that so ma n y people are already h u ngry to frequ en t I pa n ema . T he en ergy at Q atar’ s first au then tic ch u rrascaria is i nsta n tly noticeable , a n d is as pu ngen t as the smells wafti ng lustfu lly from its kitchen .” -
Martin’s habit-forming Caipirinhas and the promise of Brazilian rhythm only serve to whet the appetite for the restaurant’s true raison d’être. After taking in the colourful surroundings, we are seated by our hostess, served a few more irresistible Caipirinhas and greeted by Senior Sous Chef Alexandre Kachan, whose personable humility belies his São Paolo-born and bred culinary mastery and internationally renowned creative vision. Having lived and worked in Brazil, throughout the United States and London, his most recent stint at the Chamas Brazilian Churrascaria in Abu Dhabi led it to award-winning heights, as well as him to personal nominations for the Emirate’s “Best Chef” honours. Perhaps what Chef Kachan most importantly brings to the table, though, is his commitment to authenticity. It was he that found and arranged the Brazilian band a group he used to work with in his hometown of São Paolo. It was he who brought over his award-winning team from Abu Dhabi to continue their success here in Doha. It was he who meticulously remastered the menu (perhaps at the expense of a timely opening, but to the benefit of its depth), to make it more true to traditions
and tastes. Yes, Ipanema may be the spiritual brainchild of the Renaissance, but it is most decidedly Chef Kachan’s baby. Having sampled the chef’s passion, and after drinking in his mellow yet effervescent charm, Steve and I were left awash in both the spirit of this place and, thanks to the piles of meat that had paraded around us since we arrived, a deeply resonant hunger. The first thing presented, and what would be “a sin not to try,” in the words of the good chef, was the complementary basket of cheese bread, which is sure to become an icon in Doha. You heard it here first! Thick, gooey and the very definition of “moreish,” the toothsome flavour of Ipanema’s cheese bread is matched only by its doughy consistency, and is an ABSOLUTE MUST when frequenting the restaurant, albeit in small quantities (if you can), to save room for the meat. With that in mind, it was time for the “Stevening for Two” to get REAL ... and that meant flipping a coin. Once again for the churrascaria neophytes out there, the flow of the “all-you-canmeat” restaurant is controlled not by pillaging unappetising steam trays at the buffet cart, but rather by manipulating a small disk at your table. Much like the comic book villain Two-Face, whose scarred coin allowed his fevered mind to more easily make decisions, each guest at Ipanema is lent a two-coloured coaster-sized disk to facilitate the direction of his or her own desires. Flipping to the red side means “STOP,” and indicates to the brigade of meat-festooned-sword brandishing waiting staff that you are not yet ready for, or have had enough, food. However, flipping to the green “GO” side is when the real fun begins, and your table becomes a verdant pasture where an impossible amount of never-ending meat from nearly every conceivable animal comes to graze.
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There are an astounding 15 different variations of meat at Ipanema, including, just to name a few, chicken wings, lamb chops, duck breast and the entire range of the beef family, like top sirloin and its Brazilian cousin, Picanha. These are all set beside traditional sides, such as rice, beans, “farofa” (Brazil’s answer to couscous) and fried bananas, as well as an impressive (albeit somewhat redundant) salad bar, with an assortment of mezze as good, if not better, than any local Arabic restaurant here in town. Some might say that implementing an Arabic “twist” to classic Brazilian fare decreases its authenticity, but as Chef Kachan is quick to point out, Brazil is not only a renaissance culture that benefits (at least in terms of cuisine) from former international colonisation, but also boasts the largest Lebanese population outside of Lebanon. Global and traditional Arabic food, in particular the cuts and styles of meat (such as kafta, for example), are already part of the Brazilian culinary ether, and are just as authentic there as they are here in the Middle East. After a smattering of salads and a few rounds of cheese bread, Steve and I flipped our coins, braced ourselves and committed to seeing how long we could “go green.” What came after the flip was an unabated cavalcade of carnivorousness, the breadth of which had heretofore not been seen since episodes of The Wild Kingdom. We made it a solid 20 minutes before once again seeing red. Within that time, Ipanema waged a salvo of succulence upon our salivary glands. In quick-fire succession came first the perfect tang of a flank steak, followed by the dark, musky richness of duck, the robust spice of kafta, the thick, gorgeous taste and texture of the expertly barbecued top sirloin, the mouthwatering melt of lamb chops and the heady spice of the marinated lamb cubes. Favourites were hard to establish for each Steve, but general consensus named a marginal victor in the short ribs, which seemed to melt with the engrossing consistency and unforgettable flavour of a perfectly pan-fried fois gras, so soft and delicate was its wake of flavour. As Steve mentioned, the only conceivable pitfall at a place like Ipanema’s is that, in the wrong hands, it could almost be too much of a good thing, with an impenetrable meat-based phalanx of salty flavours attacking for dominance all at once. However, as if on cue, one of our attentive waiters suddenly rocked up to our table with a welcome relief. What initially looked like a miniature kebab was in fact something very different.
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“Roasted pineapple,” he said with a smile, “to cleanse the palate.” And cleanse it did, with a sweet, cinnamon burst that massaged my mouth once again into compliance and rededication to my meaty cause. Even without the pineapple, which Steve did not partake in to save room, none of the meat becomes “samey,” and each cut or type maintains its own signature flavour and presence. This comes down to preparation, and whether he is watching his team directly or leading while managing the front of house, Chef Kachan has his menu prepped and completely under control, making sure that each element is different and unique enough to foster further exploration into what could possibly come out of the kitchen next. As Americans, both Steve and I have proven hours within the hallowed halls of the traditional Brazilian churrascaria, it being a popular institution in the States, but neither of us, it was agreed, had ever tried anything like Ipanema. This is not a shovelling of mediocre meat to stuff and feed the masses; this is a well chosen, unbroken symphony of substantive sustenance. Thanks to Chef Kachan, Ipanema just gets it right, with the quality that lacks in other like-minded establishments, while maintaining a comparable value for money. One can never be sure about the introduction of such new and bold concepts as a churrascaria, especially in Doha. Best laid plans, after all, often go awry. However, if it is one thing that my “Stevening for Two” taught both myself and Steve, it is that Ipanema is more than just filler, and may very well be the true meat of Doha’s growing culinary story.
r evu e Car
The science of Soul For making advanced maths cool and making James McCarthy admit he was wrong. A fter dismissi ng the M c L aren M P4 -12 C as a “bit of a bori ng , sou lless , science project,” James M c C arthy is forced to eat his words after seei ng the light on A bu Dhabi’ s F1 track . -
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Ok, so the name still sounds like it should belong to a Canon fax machine, and admittedly I am not a huge fan of the metallic ochre colour scheme, but on one sunny day in January, on the F1 circuit “du jour” at Yas Island Abu Dhabi, I had any pre-conceived notions and misconceptions I might have had about the McLaren MP4-12C well and truly shattered. We were invited by McLaren Automotive to meet its new regional director for the Middle East and Africa, Mark Harrison, witness the filming of the company’s latest video starring the MP4-12C and get a hot lap or two around the circuit, where the company’s F1 arm enjoyed success at the close of the 2011 season, with the car’s chief test driver, Chris Goodwin. Normally, here at SLT, we see very little point in being driven in these cars, as it doesn’t allow us to really give an accurate assessment of their capabilities or the experience of driving them. This, however, was different. For well over two years now, McLaren has been rolling out the same spec-heavy buzzwords about things such as carbon-fibre MonoCells, Proactive Chassis Control, Pre-Cog capable gearboxes and Intelligent Damping systems. This was an opportunity to put all of this technobabble into some sort of realworld perspective. Now, I will be the first to admit that, for me, the McLaren MP4-12C came across as a rather benign and sterile supercar, designed by boffins wearing white overcoats, in an airless cleanroom arguing over where to place the (mp4 + ½+c)=Y in the equation that would form the car’s mathematical soul. It was too perfectly engineered to be fun, too plain looking to be extreme and just, well, a bit dull... I couldn’t have been more wrong.
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Yes, you read that correctly. I admit, I was totally wide of the mark. So far wide, in fact, that you could comfortably say that the Chrysler design team was more on the money with the look of its PT Cruiser, than my preconceptions of the MP4-12C.
With my first tentative foray onto the floodlit track, I could feel the raft of technology working underneath, in front and behind me. The “brake steer,” where the computer brakes the inside rear wheel to reduce understeer in the corners, was particularly obvious, but that is a very over-simplified description of it.
Even as a passenger under the extreme driving of Goodwin, I felt a thrill that I had not expected, despite his promise to deliver a bladder weakening experience. The 3.8-litre V8 Twin Turbo screamed its instructions to the 592 British-bred horses caged in the rear mid-mounted engine as the MP4-12C careered from the straights and into the corners as if on rails, and was spat back out the other side at face melting speed.
In addition, the power to each wheel can be individually controlled by the clever damping system to ensure the most efficient entry and exit to even the tightest corners without any pitch or roll, making even mediocre drivers like me feel like Jenson Button.
My heart was nearly thumping out of my chest as I raised the dihedral door and clambered out in an ungainly fashion. I was halfway to realising my initial mistake and completely re-writing this article in my head when I was informed that, after dinner, I would get my chance to take the wheel.
It took less than half the circuit to get a handle on the McLaren, made especially easy thanks to the “Pre-Cog” transmission, which allows you to pre set the next gear up or down. By applying light pressure to the desired paddle, it alerts the dual-clutch gearbox whether or not it will be an upshift or a down shift, meaning that the engage is instantaneous (perhaps even quicker than that).
Eventually, after what seemed like an age of small talk and endless Dim Sum, I was handed my helmet once again and given the keys. The first thing I noticed as I sat behind the wheel and pulled the door shut was just how comfortable the cockpit was. There was none of the hardness you associate with supercars of a similar stature, the seats cosseted my frame and the controls were arranged in a well thought-out layout.
It was just as I hit the last straight and I ploughed my foot into the carpet, redlining the rev-counter and whooping with joy, that all of a sudden the maths finally made sense: (mp4 + ½ + c) = (Y + n0t)? And that’s the moment I realised that this car does have a soul after all.
There was a lot of talk from McLaren about the compromises made to the driving position to make this a more viable everyday car compared to the old F1, with its centrally-mounted steering column, but even in the MP4-12C, it felt as if you were hugging the centre line of the road.
It is a quintessentially British soul, though; reserved and discreet, but more than capable of making an emotionally-charged racket when pushed hard enough. However, like Nelson, Churchill and Lawrence of Arabia before it, the MP4-12C will always do it with an air of unflappable dignity and total control over the situation at hand.
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i n FO CUS
Change of
Art
Isabelle de La Bruyère, Director of Christie’s Middle East, reflects on the world famous auction house’s record-breaking sales of both Modern and Contemporary Arab Art since its inaugural GCC-based auction in May 2006, how it helped place Dubai as a new destination in the Arts calendar and her excitement at what the future may hold for the fine art market in the region.
I
t began in May 2006, with Christie’s first international auction of Modern & Contemporary Arab Art in the region. Through the publication of the sale catalogue, a fresh, new imagery produced by young regional artists, previously known only by a savvy few in the Arab world, was for the first time in the hands of an international set of collectors. This inaugural sale, which brought in over 650 participants from 17 different countries, many of whom were bidding at auction for the first time, exceeded all presale estimates and marked the turning point for this previously oft overlooked market for fine art. Many of the great modern artists have been known and collected by the knowledgeable few for decades, but those collectors who do not live in the Middle East did not have easy access to such works prior to 2006. For the first time, the best works by these artists were placed on an international platform and achieved a new-found recognition. Since then, the combined efforts of government bodies, foundations, international auctioneers, visionary gallery owners, art fair organisers, private collectors and museum curators have jointly played a part in the fantastic expansion of the market and helped to fuel the appetite for art in the Middle East, and for works by its regional artists. Thus, in the last five years, world-record prices for artists have broken from one season to another. However, as demand has radically grown in a seller’s market, quality works are harder to come by. Nonetheless, many Middle Eastern artists still remain “reasonably” priced when compared to contemporary art sold in other major markets, such as London or New York. Estimates in any Middle Eastern Art sale catalogue can start from as low as $2,000, whilst $20,000 will get you a very good piece by a particularly promising young artist. And, as the market for the great modern Arab and Iranian masters is slowly drying up, collectors old and new are shifting their interest towards the rapidly growing younger generation of regional artists.
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About Isabelle
Isabelle joined Christie’s in 1998 as a Picture Specialist in the 19th Century, Impressionist & Modern department, and in 2003 concentrated her skills on the Client Advisory side of the business. Now based in Dubai, she travels frequently to New York, London and Paris, following Christie’s most important sales and advising private clients. Isabelle’s role as Director for the Middle East has taken her all over the MENA region to lead Christie’s activities in this part of the world, meet collectors, discover local artists, give lectures and chair charity auctions. With the team, Christie’s has achieved record-breaking auction prices for both Modern & Contemporary Arab artworks.
The industry is interested in their message, especially in today’s current political environment. The surge in interest for art, and the new class of artist it brings, is a fact which should be seen as a promising element of a growing cultural landscape in a region which can finally bask in the spotlight shining on its artistic production. How will this all develop within the next five years? With this new appreciation for modern and contemporary art comes a new crowd of collectors, buyers and investors, each able and willing to acquire great works of art. There is a new global depth to the market that did not exist three years ago and, with government entities, institutions, and internationally renowned collectors starting to look into the region, the breadth to which the world will be exposed to these artists can only expand. Museums, such as the Tate, have now formed acquisitions committees devoted to art from the region. The Metropolitan Museum recently unveiled its new purchase, a work by the celebrated Monir Farmanfarmaian, while the LACMA exhibited works by Saudi artist Ahmed Matar in its most recent exhibition Gifts of the Sultan. Qatar unveiled the Mathaf Museum of Modern Arab Art, while Abu Dhabi hosted the acclaimed Opening the Doors: Collecting Middle Eastern Art exhibition, which showcased some of the best works of art from private regional collections. Such measures from the industry’s cultural leaders brings even greater international stature to the artistic production of a region, which six years ago was still largely overlooked by the art market.
There is also a remarkable artistic focus around the various regional art fairs. The same can be noted at the 2011 Venice Biennale, which included five national pavilions from the Middle East representing Egypt, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Syria and the United Arab Emirates, as well as the first-ever Pan-Arab exhibition and other independent shows. Such a strong regional presence at the Venice Biennale is an indication that Arab artists are quickly gaining an international following and that the world is interested in what they have to say. As more players enter the market, the enthusiasm and appetite for art is escalating rapidly. The MENA region is a key market for Christie’s in regards to new client recruitment and, as more competition enters the regional scene, new collectors can only multiply in numbers. Christie’s has been very active throughout the MENA region and, at the beginning of the 2011, we supported Edge of Arabia in Jeddah and we just held our second highlight exhibition in Doha, where we showcased works of art covering 12 centuries from the Islamic world. It should be no surprise, therefore, that Christie’s regular Dubai sales have now moved to a twopart format, in line with its most important international sale centres, such as New York, Hong Kong and London; an undeniable testament to the globalisation of the Middle Eastern Art market and the continued maturity and international interest for sales in this category.
Christie’s next sale of Modern and Contemporary Arab, Iranian and Turkish Art will take place in Dubai on April 17th and 18th, 2012 at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers hotel.
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“ Life is a highway. I wa n t to ride it all n ight lo ng .”To m C o c h r a n e , “L i f e i s a Hi g h w a y”
Justin Time
u p close a n d per so n a l
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Interview : Laurence Gallier.. Photographs : all rights reserved..
. sur la terre . up close and personal .
Justin Timberlake -
Time goes by pretty fast, especially for Justin Timberlake. At just 31 years old, he is living the good life at full speed. his latest phenomenal success is not a musical hit, but a Hollywood blockbuster. Time Out, which has just been released on DVD & Blu Ray, tells the story of the year 2070, when time has replaced money, and The countdown to death has never been more perilous. It is decidedly less dangerous when we sit with the Über-cool superstar for an exclusive interview. he’s a busy man, after all, but he makes us feel like we have all the time in the world. -
S
ur la Terre : Cinema, music, fashion... You never stop! Do you ever feel like you are short of time? Justin Timberlake: You have to make choices. First and foremost, you have to learn how to benefit from the time you have. I know now that the more I appreciate the things I’m doing, the more slowly time passes. If I start thinking about all I could do, time speeds up fast ... too fast, and I risk not doing anything at all. You know, I am very lucky that I did so many things in 30 years. Now, to be able to spend time living my own life is more and more precious.
Do you identify yourself, even a little bit, with your character in the film? When you play a character, you hunt for those things that resonate in you. I think that this is the most personal role I could ever do because of that - because he seems real. There is probably a lot of me in this character because, honestly, I come from a blue-collar background. Up until now, I have been exceptionally lucky, but I still never take anything for granted. Everything that happens to my character in the film makes you want to anchor him in real life, because Andrew wrote it in a way that gives it this authenticity.
So, what do you enjoy doing with your time ? Well, I love to eat! I have a great job, but it requires a big time commitment, especially with all of the travelling, and that takes it out of me, physically. The more you commit yourself to your job, the more you need to take time to reload your batteries, so I always try to take time between sessions to sit down and enjoy what’s around me.
I think of Will as an ordinary man, but he is a man who has also reached the point of no return. We understand what he experiences, particularly in the episode with his mother, and I can identify myself with that love he feels for her. Of course, I would like to think that I would behave the same way he does in the film. I guess we all want to believe that we have it in us to do something heroic, and that’s exactly what Will ends up doing.
What does your latest movie, Time Out, tell us about today’s world ? I think that all the movies by Andrew Niccol tell us something about today. He has the genius to place us face-to-face with our own mirror through fantastic storytelling. I still remember the first time I saw Gattaca and The Truman Show, because they really moved me, and I believe that they influenced the public too. These films were not only topical, but truly visionary, and the subjects he addressed were at their heart. The economy, the class systems, the extinction of the middle class… I think Andrew knew years ago what was yet to come. I also like the obsession with youth and immortality, two interconnected themes that he has developed, especially in this film. We see a multi-million dollar industry whose unique task is to keep us young.
Speaking of heroics, in your personal life, you do a lot of charity work. Is it important for you to give in return? The appreciation of giving back is the way I was raised, and it’s really gratifying to see its effects in the world. It’s wonderful to say we can act, and this pushes us to do more. Was the shooting of the movie physically exhausting? It was a pretty physical film. I was in much better shape during the preparation of the movie because I had to run a lot. I did sprint training and also had some stunt driving lessons, which was great fun, as was our shooting training. Even after filming, we went back to keep our bodies in good shape. Now, I have to confess that I am not feeling my best [laughs] .
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Can you say a few words about the deleted scenes from the film? There were a lot, but one in particular sticks out. It was a love scene with Amanda (Seyfried), but it wasn’t kept in because it would have limited the movie’s distribution and rating. It was in the back seat of a limousine and it was rather torrid. But don’t worry, you can still find the scene in the bonus features! Honestly, working with Amanda was great. She is instinctive and the camera loves her. We really enjoyed working together. Speaking of collaborations, why did you decide to invest in MySpace? I never considered MySpace to be a purely technical project. I think that it will one day turn into a place for entertainment and not simply a social network, so I want to turn it into that - a place that people can use to their artistic advantage rather than just somewhere to meet friends. I want to provide people with tools to exploit their skills. In what other ways do you think new technologies like this are useful? They are helpful for work. I think that social media is very useful in my job. I can, for example, share on Twitter the fact that I’m having an interview right now, and that there is a woman who keeps asking me about technology. Then I can tweet that I don’t know what to answer.
In pursuit of lost time
Welcome to 2070, a near future where the true luxury is time. The rich and smart now accumulate years like money, while others beg or rob the few minutes that separate them from death. When Will (Timberlake) is falsely accused of killing an Eternal, he begins a race against time itself. Time Out, with Justin Timberlake & Amanda Seyfried
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We’ll see about that! What is your favourite high-tech gadget ? I like listening to my iPod while driving. I prepare my playlists on my computer, and then transfer them to my iPod. So, I’m never really without music. [laughs] Then, of course, there’s video games. For a long time, I used to have an Atari console with joysticks. But then, Nintendo revolutionised things. I still remember this game called Contra, it was just unbelievable. It seems you have a busy schedule, between making movies and playing video games do you have time for a holiday? Last winter, I had a break and spent time with my family and my friends. I like travelling a lot, but when it’s for business, you only see places from a car or a hotel. You don’t really have time to appreciate anything. I like the idea of travelling at my own pace. What do you take with you when you travel? My iPod and my computer. It also depends on the place, as I can take my snowboard or my golf equipment. I was raised in Tennessee, so I like being outdoors and discovering nature. Finally, if you only had one more day left to live, what would you do? I would play golf, listen to music and live life to the max.
Is there a return to music for Justin Timberlake?
Since his surrender to the cinema, the “Cry Me a River” star has abandoned the recording studios, deciding instead to focus on other projects. In the span of four years, appearing in such films as Alpha Dog and Social Network , the singer, who was discovered in 1995 in the boy band N’Sync, has revealed some truly impressive acting chops. However, it is difficult for the ex-boyfriend of Britney Spears to forget music! Thus, between two movies, Justin Timberlake collaborated with Ciara in “Love, Sex, Magic,” and with Madonna in “4 Minutes.” Last summer, the ambassador of Givenchy acted as producer, via his label Tennman Records, to sign the group FreeSol. It was a real coup for the artist, who produced and participated in the first clip of these young talented musicians, who, like him, hail from Memphis. It even inspired the artist to hint at a solo album, which will be released by summer 2012. This is the kind of news that should delight his legions of fans, who have been waiting patiently for the return of the singing, dancing wunderkind since his album Future Sex/ Love Sounds, produced in 2007 by Timbaland. M.B
. sur la terre . up close and personal .
I BRING TO YOU CULINARY EXCITEMENT FROM THE FAR EAST
MY NAME IS
The Mads Man of Jewellery
u p close a n d per so n a l
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. sur la terre . up close and personal .
Mads Kornerup Thanks to its distinctly earthy style and richly spiritual essence, Shamballa Jewels has been turning heads in the fashion world since its official launch in 1994, gaining fans in seemingly everyone, from Karl Lagerfeld to Jay-Z. The driving force behind both its international renown and transcendental philosophy is Mads Kornerup. -
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he living embodiment of all that is Shamballa, Mads is instantly welcoming, flashing through a thick topiary of beard, a smile that seems to light up the room. That is no small feat when that room is the sumptuous Al Fardan show floor at the annual Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition. Caught in the gravitational pull of his cosmic charm, Sur la Terre sat down with the yogic guru of jewellery to see what makes his designs, his brand and his spirit so... enlightening. We understand that you were not always involved with jewellery design. Where did you originally start, and how did you get into the jewellery-making business? I was living in New York as an assistant fashion photographer, working for, amongst others, Peter Lindbergh and Albert Watson - some of the biggest fashion photographers in the world at that time. I was also working on doing my own portfolio, and for that I needed to borrow clothes and accessories. So, when I was back in Copenhagen, I borrowed a lot of these beautiful handmade Indian chains in silver, and loaded up my model with them. After that, I bought some really big bracelets on my next trip because people kept giving me a lot of compliments on them. Then I started to bring them all over from Denmark and started making more money during my lunch breaks than snapping cameras all day. So that became my business until I opened my first shop in Paris in 1994 and then in New York in 1995. That’s when jewellery took over my life and I followed its path. The inspirations behind the designs at Shamballa are growing increasingly famous for their inherently spiritual ethos. There is a mysticism, a certain magic within Shamballa. What is behind your design philosophy and how do you feel these ideas come through in your pieces? My first earthly and spiritual connection with Mother Earth and the universe came in Brazil on my 20th birthday. I was hiking the Bahia interior, in a very rich crystal diamond area. When I climbed to the top of this mountain, it dawned on me that I was connected to both heaven and earth. Since that day, the biggest force in my life has been this willingness to be open to and investigate anything that can happen. If I see an open door in a beautiful courtyard, I am way too curious. I have to sneak in and take a peek, smell the flowers and see what I can get from the experience. I think that is what it takes if you want to get the magic out of life.
This has something to do with what my old yoga teacher spent a month telling us every day: “Whatever that has happened, happened exactly the way it was supposed to.” Reason is only a part of it, and I think that is a really powerful thing to learn, because then you are free to forgive all of the things that you think you have done wrong. These are all little aspects of what Shamballa really stands for. I love to search for stories, and I love that a piece of jewellery has a story in it. I mean, okay, some pieces might just look cool! [laughs] But I like to research and prove whether symbols or writings in the jewellery have an ancient story with a bit of wisdom. Some people need it, some people search for it and some people don’t. I don’t sit down and say that I have to put this philosophy or this thought into a piece of jewellery. These things come very organically, but once the space is there, you can fill it with magic. Speaking of the magic of stories; when you think about your pieces, is there a story that you see inside one of them that you like the best or that speaks itself the loudest or most clearly? I think the most powerful story that developed was that of the double thunderbolt symbol. The single thunderbolt was the weapon of Indra, the sky god. Indra would reach into the sky and with a thunderbolt in his hand, channel the lightning to empower himself to overcome his inner demons. Based on this image of a double Vajra (Sanskrit for thunderbolt), symbolising the energy of the universe, I drew my own, which ended up looking a lot like a star. This image renamed itself the Star of Shamballa, and its own story began to emerge. It says that we, as human beings, are stars. My cousin once said that Man is made of a similar matter to planets and stars in the universe, and to me, the comparison makes sense. We are in constant movement, we emanate heat and light, and there is also the romantic side: we are all able to shine. So the Shamballa Star, which is pressed into all of our jewellery, becomes a reminder that if you can clear your mind and think about something that makes you feel really good, you can shine. That is the point of “Shamballising” - to get us all to realise how lucky we are that we are the result of a million-to-once chance.
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Unlike many jewellers, your pieces are quite masculine. Was that always the case or simply something that arose during the creative development of the company? My jewellery has always been geared towards men. I mean, my foundation and inspiration has always been to make something that my brother and I would wear. I figured if I make something that we would like, there might be a couple of other guys that might be interested in it, too. The Maharajas used to do the same thing, wearing this sort of jewellery, so I try to bring a little bit of that essence back into the world of men. I always thought it was really unfair that only women got to wear these big stones - the big beautiful energies of Mother Earth - so I’m trying to bring that back a little bit. We all know that women love diamonds, but to get the men involved ... now that’s the real challenge, especially in the Middle East. Then again, we’re up to it! I mean, the Crown Prince of Fujairah wears a Shamballa bracelet, as do a couple of the Princes of Brunei. Hopefully, I will be able to start the trend! I will Shamballise the Middle East! Speaking of your masculine pieces, the most iconic of these, thanks to celebrities like Michael Jordan and Jay-Z to name a few, is the Shamballa bracelet. Where did the inspiration for that piece come from specifically? That piece translated directly from my interest in Malas (Buddhist prayer beads). I renamed them “Breath Beads,” because when you take a breath, in a sense, it is an homage to God; you breathe in life. I have been collecting beads for some time now, and my vision was to make the most exquisite Malas. There has been a lot of influence in Shamballa from the Indian tradition. I started working in Nepal and Bali, so all of the handcrafts that I saw there really inspired me. Another powerful thing about the Shamballa bracelet is the possibility of changing it and the diversity that you have with the same bracelet. You can come to a dinner party and there will be five people wearing a Shamballa, but you will very seldom see anybody wearing the same one. All of our points of sale around the world take customised orders. I did this because I didn’t want a piece of jewellery to just lie around. I wanted there to be the possibility to adapt. If you get sick of your bracelet, then we will make it into a necklace or cufflinks. We don’t want it to lie there and gather dust, we want you to wear it. We also want you to give you the option, if you are not wearing it, to change it into something you WILL wear.
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Many stars from screen and stage have been seen in Shamballa, but do you think there are there any celebrities that “define” the look, feel and verve of the brand? Karl Lagerfeld. I love him and got to meet him in Cannes last year. A friend came to pick me up for dinner one night and said, “Come with me,” and she drags me over to Karl Lagerfeld, who is talking to Uma Thurman. My friend goes over to introduce me, and Karl immediately leaves his conversation, comes up to me and says, “I’m a really big fan!” I was like, “No no no, I’m YOUR fan!” Then he pulls up his sleeve and he is wearing a Shamballa bracelet. I died. Of course, Valentino has two Shamballa bracelets and always wears one. Giorgio Armani has bought two bracelets, too. So we have this portfolio of designers that I have always admired and they are all wearing Shamballa bracelets! But Karl Lagerfeld? I mean, he is the grand master of fashion! Of course, without Jay-Z, I don’t think I would be here. He is amazing. It was a coincidence when Jay came into the shop in 2001. Our mutual friend said that I should make him a really cool, meditative yogic piece of jewellery that was not bling, and what I made for him became the first Shamballa bracelet. I’m actually just now making him a black diamond chain with Beyoncé on one side and Blue Ivy on the other. He has always been a special, very loyal client. How do you plan to make the Shamballa name grow even more from here? I will continue growing by sourcing the best materials that Mother Earth provides. As long as I keep maintaining that level of fineness with the jewellery and the stones, Shamballa will always be the most exquisite jewellery line in the market. Shamballa has already developed so quickly! We have doubled our sales over the last five years, and it looks like we will continue to have the same result in years to come. Internationally speaking, we have sold well in Paris, London and Zurich, with America starting slowly to grow over the last year. Al Fardan is starting this year here in Qatar, so it’s been quite amazing. We are also going to Baselworld for the first time this year, which will be the first time we launch our brand along with other big players, so that is very exciting. We are also getting more exposure, like the Danish national TV documentary (Big City, Big Spirit), which compares the stories of Shamballa and Cartier. In terms of markets, Beijing is also going to be next year, and this year the focus for me is Germany and the Middle East. Qatar is a wonderful place to be, especially with the Al Fardan family. I feel very fortunate to be here.
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tr en ds confidential
The haute side of the street From the thrones at the top of the fashion emporium to the high street shelves, Sophie Jones-Cooper explores the trend for designer collaborations.
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hat came first? The chicken or the egg? This is a long-standing question to which one seems to have the answer. It continues to baffle – one does not precede, nor follow, the other and we continue to ponder whether you can have one without the other.
But what does this have to do with fashion? Well, while I did see a girl wearing a pheasant on her head (real, but dead of course) at the Temperley London show at London Fashion Week recently, it has nothing to do with a newfound fashion craze for our feathered friends. Although, as it turns out, said pheasant wearer is a handbag designer for Topshop, so watch out – the pheasant could soon be squawking its way to the high street next season. But will it fly off the shelves? A poor joke… I digress. So, back to the chicken and the egg and, yes, still unanswerable. But ask the same question about two of the fashions world’s most pivotal beings, and the answer is plain and clear. What came first? The designers or the high street? There is only one answer: the designers take gold, the high street follows in second place. Every season, the high street waits with bated breath for the designer catwalk shows to spoon-feed them with next season’s trends. They pick out what can readily be copied and easily worn on the everyday woman. Six months later, the catwalk looks are on the high street shelves – replicated at a fraction of the quality and a fraction of the price. Designer fashion is the feed for the high street. Without the designers, the high street would be trendless. The designers are well aware of the workings of the high street, but it is of no real concern. These are two very different worlds with two very different types of clientele. A knock-off Diane Von Furstenberg wrap dress on the high street does not stop the true DVF fans wearing the real
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thing. Clients of designer stores are looking for quality and exclusivity and they get it, while high street shoppers are looking for accessibility and affordability, and they find this on the high street. In recent times, however, the two worlds have found some common ground and designers have started working hand-in-hand with the high street. Unless you are immune to the endless buzzing of the social media, blind to the giant billboards and anti TV and magazines, you too will be very familiar with the latest trend of designers creating one-off capsule collections for high street stores, offering designer style at more affordable prices. Ever since legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld (of Chanel and Fendi fame) stooped to street level and collaborated with Swedish chain store H&M back in 2004, designer and high street collaborations have continued to flourish. Topshop, Adidas, Gap and Debenhams are just a few of the high street favourites who have all teamed up with bigwig fashion designers including Lanvin, Jimmy Choo, Stella McCartney and most recently Versace and Marni, whose collaborations with H&M have dominated the fashion news. While collaborating with the high street may be a relatively new trend, creating more affordable collections is nothing new for designers. Before the high street hook ups, designers have been churning out what they like to call “diffusion lines” for years now. Marc Jacobs launched Marc by Marc Jacobs in 2001 to appeal to a younger audience and offer his designs at a lower price point, and today it is selling just as fast as his main line. See by Chloé, Chloé’s spin-off line has also seen huge success. It even held its first catwalk show this season at Paris Fashion Week. This also marked another first – the first virtual catwalk presentation - a pre-recorded catwalk show streamed by invite only to fashion editors and buyers around the world. Relative newcomer to the fashion elite, Victoria Beckham has already launched a secondary line, although she doesn’t like to call it that, rather: “another
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Marni for H&M..
line, another side to my wardrobe.” Victoria by Victoria Beckham, with its lower price point and more casual style is already becoming just as popular as her ‘other’ collection. So if designer diffusion lines are doing so well, why do designers head down the high street, to the exact place that is knocking off their mainline designs in the first place? A new question is raised and it is not about who came first, but who needs whom? Are the designers looking for the mass market numbers of the high street following and the ego boost of the extra recognition from Jo Bloggs, or do the high street giants need the big designer names to up their ante and attract the queuing hoards that only a designer, or celebrity, can pull in? For the designers, by choosing to work with the high street, it allows them to take back the control of what is being sold to style-hungry high street shoppers. Instead of seeing others create copycat pieces, they are creating them themselves and that too brings in financial rewards. Why should the high street stores benefit from the hugely successful replica pieces, when these pennies can go straight into the fashion designer’s piggy bank by designing their own knock-offs?
Mary Katrantzou for Topshop..
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Take British designer Mary Katrantzou, for example. The hugely successful designer’s exuberant trademark prints have made her quite the pride and joy of new British fashion and in turn, a favourite high street copycat victim. So this season, Mary has collaborated with one of the biggest names of the high street, Topshop, designing a capsule collection for SS 12. The designs, as expected, have flown off the shelves. It is not just the style hungry and money-poor general public who have been queuing up to get their hands on the highly respected collection, but the celebrities too. Singer and TV presenter Alesha Dixon, model Poppy Delevigne, Topshop heiress Chloe Green and Made in Chelsea costar Amber Atherton were all papped in the very same floral lantern tulip dress from the collection. Exclusivity – I think not. But for the high street stores, the publicity and hype surrounding such a collection is what the designer brings them. If the speed at which these collections sell out is anything to go by, it is surely a win/win situation for both parties. What about the shoppers? Exclusivity is pretty much out of the question with these collaborations, so many serious designer shoppers will steer well clear of such collections, but when it comes to accessibility, these collections win hands down. Bagging a designer bargain has never been easier. But what about quality? unfortunately, more often than not, this is somewhat lacking. With such mass-produced clothing, quality is never going to be of the highest standards, especially if compared to the designers’ usual quality and craftsmanship. A Mary Katrantzou dress for Topshop or Marni skirt for H&M will be of higher standard than your usual Topshop or H&M dress, but it is really the name you are paying for, not top quality fabric or superior craftsmanship.
versace for H&M..
Then there is affordability. While many pieces from such collections are a steal compared to the mainline (starting at just £40), when it comes to Mary Katrantzou’s floral lantern tulip dress at £350, this is over many high street shoppers’ budget. That’s pretty steep when you consider you can buy a dress from her mainline collection for £530. When you aren’t getting the exclusivity, affordability doesn’t rank so high. However, for recessionistas who can’t or won’t spend their monthly salary on designer gear, a piece designed by their favourite name in fashion that is a gorgeous version of the real deal and includes a label with the designer name on it, sure makes up for cheaper fabric and the odd mis-stitch. Take a look at the Marni for H&M collection, and it is easy to see why this trend of more affordable designer gear is here to stay. Who can resist those clashing Marni prints and signature shifts, even if they aren’t true Marni? Some may frown upon such collaborations, but there are plenty of people jumping for joy. I myself prefer to focus on exclusivity and affordability and that is where emerging designers, vintage and one-off boutiques come into play. For me, there’s nothing worse than turning up to an event in the same dress as someone else, and with such limited capsule collections, this is inevitable. It cannot be denied that the combining of designer fashion with the high street has created a new trend phenomenon of affordable luxury that is winning over everyone from students to fashion editors. Even fashion heavyweight, Anna Dello Russo, couldn’t wait to get her hands on the Versace for H&M collection. Are our fashion morals slipping? Will this be the demise of designer and haute couture? I don’t think so. This is just another fashion trend that will be replaced by something else in time. As Coco Chanel once said: “Trends come and go but style is eternal.”
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Marni for H&M
fa s h i o n
Garden of Eden
Photographed by Fred Chapotat www.fredchapotat.com , S tylist’s assistant: Jennifer Lumbroso. Models : S tasya /Oui M anagement, A lexandre Gaillot/ City Models . H air and make -up by Luc Drouen. Photographer’s assistant and retouching : UH armony.S tyled by J ean -Pierre V iafora www. mtproductions . net
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Python, cotton and paper blend shorts LANVIN, Sleeveless jacket and felt hat DIOR HOMME. Page before: Orange leather dress DIOR Page on the left: Silk sweater and trousers LANVIN
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Dress ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER, «Ice Cube» necklace and «Temptations» earrings CHOPARD Page on the right: Draped sleeves JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER, Dress ARZU KAPROL
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LO O K BO O K
Candy couture
Style so good you could eat it. Pick ‘n’ mix spring’s sweet shades and juicy hues
TROUSERS Monsoon, TROUSERS Elizabeth & James at Boutique1.com, BALLET FLATS Bloch at Net-a-porter.com, SUNGLASSES Marni, SWIMSUIT River Island, CLUTCH Accessorize, WALLET Proenza Schouler at Boutique1.com, BAG River Island, TOP Ralph Lauren at Net-a-porter, SHOES Christian Louboutin, DRESS Chloé at Net-a-porter.com, DRESS Preen at Net-a-porter.com
Take inspiration from Mulberry’s latest ad campaign – think candy cane kook, sherbet sorbet sweetness and bucket and spades full of sunshine yellow.
DESIGNER MOMENT:
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TOP TIP: Go for one candy colour head to toe or combine individual pieces in contrasting shades for true dolly mixture appeal.
LO O K BO O K
Geared up
Fuel an injection of Ryan Gosling’s Drive style behind the wheel BAG Dolce & Gabbana, GLOVES Dents at MrPorter.com, SUNGLASSES Topman.com, JEANS 7 For All Mankind at Boutique1. com, BOOTS Topman.com, WATCH TAG Heuer, HENLEY TSHIRT Vince at Boutique1.com, SUEDE BOMBER JACKET Marc by Marc Jacobs at MrPorter.com, SUEDE & LEATHER BOMBER JACKET Maison Martin Margiela at MrPorter.com, COTTON BOMBER JACKET Richard James at MrPorter.com TOP TIP: Keep this 80s bad boy look slick, simple and
oozing attitude with slim fitting jeans, a Henley Tshirt, bomber jacket and aviators.
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“ L o ng may you ru n ... with you r chrome heart shi n i ng i n the s u n .” - Ne i l Yo u n g , “L o n g Ma y Yo u R u n”
i n moti o n
Continental
Shift
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uxury is something we at Sur la Terre are obviously big on. If it’s expensive, exclusive, exciting or dynamic, we selflessly throw ourselves into the task of experiencing, reviewing and dissecting the minutiae of really lovely stuff. As the saying goes, it’s tough but someone’s got to do it, and we are at your service. Don’t mention it. When it comes to four-wheeled transport, it doesn’t really get much more luxurious than Bentley. Whether it’s the sumptuous leathers that you sink your derriere into, the deep polished timbers that cap the doors and house the instruments, or the metal organ-stop pull/push controls that operate the vents so you can cool your fevered brow, everything about a modern Bentley is the very embodiment of sheer opulence and indulgence. They look, smell, feel and sound glorious. However, certain beardy types would dare to suggest that Bentleys and their ilk are slowly destroying this planet of ours. What’s a company like Bentley to do about that? While there will always be a certain demand for gas-guzzling, solar-system destroying performance cars, manufacturers have had to sit up, take notice and develop a conscience of sorts. In the past few years, new car launches have been more about lower emissions, increased efficiency and recyclability than performance statistics and handling which, while admirable, is all a bit dull, isn’t it? So when Bentley’s top brass said, on the record, a couple of years ago that its cars would soon be greener to the tune of 40 percent yet still retain that quintessential Bentleyness that we’ve come to know and love, the motoring press raised a collective eyebrow, sighed and thought, “yeah, whatever.” Yet here I am, on a cold, snowy and blustery day in Spain, at the superb Navarra race circuit, climbing into a brand new Continental GT that Bentley says delivers on that very promise.
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. sur la terre . in motion .
Some say that when he dreams, Porsche Panameras spontaneously combust and that his morning breath emulates the fresh smell of Wednesday. All we know is... he’s called Kevin Hackett and, after hearing how he beat The Stig’s lap times (sort of) on the Top Gear test track*, we decided to ship him off to snow-covered Spain to thrash the new Bentley Continental V8.
*While test driving the McLaren MP4-12C around the Dunsfold airfield in the UK, where BBC TV’s Top Gear.. is filmed, Kevin’ posted a time that was marginally faster than that of The Stig’s effort in a Porsche 911 Turbo...
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Mere facts and figures can never sum up an experience that’s supposed to be emotive, but with this new car they’re entirely relevant, so bear with me while I go through a few of them. This new model has four fewer cylinders than the usual Conti GT. That’ll be eight, then. And those eight cylinders displace two litres less, making it a 4.0. Then there’s the matter of 25kg saved by having this smaller engine (hardly earth shattering that one, I grant you), a price point 10 percent lower than the W12 and, here’s the really important bit: it has a range between visits to the fuel pumps that’s increased by 50 percent. You might be shrugging your shoulders thinking, “So what? Give me the full fat W12 with all the trimmings!” But wait, think about this: it means that, if you drive one of these on a regular basis, you’ll spend more time enjoying it rather than queuing up at the pumps for a tank full of super unleaded, and that has to be a good thing, even if your wallet is deep enough to slake the W12’s ridiculous thirst for fuel.
So, in the name of duty to you, the beautiful people, I pull a black balaclava thingy over my round face and squeeze a helmet onto my bonce. I look ridiculous – not at all suitable for such as esteemed motor car – but my plan is to go so damned quickly that nobody will see my hamster cheeks. I open the reassuringly heavy driver’s door and relax into a seat that would not be out of place in a royal family’s LearJet. There’s nothing whatsoever to give the game away that this is the W12’s lesser brother – it’s still as Bentley as ever. Twisting the key, the differences start to become apparent because the W12 has one of the deepest boombox exhaust rumbles out there and this V8 sounds very different. It’s still a meaty beat but there’s a hint of hot rod about it, too. I rather like it. So far, so good.
The Continental GT has always been the consummate grand tourer. With its glorious cabin roomy enough for four adults to sit in total comfort, combined with truly effortless and staggering performance from its twin-turbo 6.0-litre W12 engine, it was the car that put Bentley back on the map after too many decades in the shadow of Rolls-Royce. To tinker around with that winning formula in any way whatsoever must have been a brave step. What we now know is that, behind the scenes, Bentley joined forces with VW stable-mate Audi to develop an engine with four fewer cylinders, which could be used in either the Continental or Audi’s upcoming S8. It had to offer tremendous levels of torque, huge top end speed and, as mentioned sip 50 percent less fuel. However, for it to be a fitting powerplant for a Bentley it also needed to feel like it was always like this. Going by the numbers alone, the prognosis is not good.
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Just a few minutes ago, I’d been familiarising myself with this extremely technical circuit by practicing on a bespoke video game. I’d managed to embarrass myself (I actually have a life, not a PlayStation) a number of times, but at least I have the general hang of the layout ahead. This is advantageous because I’m with the first batch of journalists in the world to do this and Bentley would rather have a full complement of V8s to see out the rest of the six-week event. The track surface is slippery thanks to the melting snow, so knowing where the bends are is bound to be a plus. Heading out of the pit lane, I emerge onto the track and immediately boot it. It would be rude not to. Despite its four cylinder deficit, this thing moves like a W12, which means it’s blisteringly fast. After three laps my confidence builds sufficiently for me to throw it into the twisty bits and stamp on the throttle whenever there’s a straight worth
exploiting before swapping pedals so the brilliant brakes can wipe off speed in huge dollops with a retardation that shifts my internal organs. All the while, the cabin reverberates to the bass baritone of a V8 that sounds like it could be under the bonnet of a de-tuned NASCAR racer. It’s nothing short of extraordinary and, after just six laps behind the wheel of the new Bentley, I can’t understand why anyone would want the W12 instead of this. I’ve made up my mind: this is easily the best drivers’ Bentley there has ever been. Being told there’s just 25kg less weight over the front axle meant little to me just a few minutes ago, but in reality it means the handling is more sprightly than ever before. It actually feels like they’ve reduced the weight by ten times that amount. This thing is alive – less ocean liner and more speedboat. Even the crazy bio-fuel Continental Supersport, which I also drove on a race track, didn’t feel like this. There was no disguising that car’s weight, no matter how many seats were missing from the back or bits of carbon fibre blighted the interior. This V8, though, really handles. At 2,295kg, it’s still extremely heavy, don’t get me wrong, but it just doesn’t feel it. I need to find out more, so before I get carried away and bin it on one of the trickier corners, I pull in for a chat with the guys responsible. Brian Gush (yes, that is his real name) is Bentley’s chief development engineer and he shows me round the exterior changes first. There’s a new, sharper front bumper treatment; a new, more upright and black-painted grille; new 21-inch wheel designs; a new rear valance; new “figure eight” exhaust tips and, if all that wasn’t enough to tell you there’s only eight cylinders under the bonnet, the Bentley badges have red centres instead of black. These subtle differences all combine to make the Conti V8 actually more attractive than its W12 brother, so why would anyone buy the more expensive car, especially when this one drives so well?
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“It is nothing short of extraordinary and, after just six laps behind the wheel of the new Bentley, I can’t understand why anyone would want the W12 instead of this. I’ve made up my mind: this is easily the best drivers’ Bentley there has ever been.” “We think there’s still a market for the W12,” says Gush. “The two cars have very different personalities and there will always be a base of customers for whom only the biggest and most expensive will do.” Still I’m not convinced, because the technology under this familiar skin is incredibly impressive. The all-new aluminium quad-cam 4.0L engine is slightly different from the unit Audi has fitted in its S8. Tuned to produce more torque but less top end power (it’s still 500hp), it feels unburstable and gives away very little in feel or performance to the old W12. Here’s the really clever bit, though, at low speeds it isn’t a V8 at all, it’s actually a V4. All eight cylinders operate at idle but it shuts off the end cylinders of one bank and the middles of the other when being driven sedately. The seamless change between eight pots and four takes just 40 milliseconds and to remove the potential problems of extra noise and vibration in V4 mode, there are “switchable” hydraulic engine mounts and the sound produced by the induction and exhaust systems has been carefully tuned. There’s also a new eight-speed automatic transmission, through which flows oil that is heated during the engine warm-up, as well as a variety of other energy saving advancements, all of which combine to make sure Bentley kept the promise it made back in 2008. The suspension has been tuned for a more sporting ride, but it’s still extremely comfortable and refined, as you’d expect. Even though the V8 is priced at just 10 percent less than the W12, it seems like a bit of a bargain. The W12 just seems pointless now. I’m getting cold standing around in the garage, so I grab the opportunity to get back on track. In doing so, my initial observations are hammered home as being correct, but tomorrow there’s a road route to take in so as darkness begins to envelop the Spanish tundra, I head back to base which, in this
case, is the insane Frank Gehry-designed Marques de Riscal hotel. It is deep in the heart of the Rioja region, and looks like a molten spacecraft has crash landed in the middle of a huge vineyard. Like the Bentley, it’s a fusion of cutting edge materials and olde worlde luxury, but we’ll leave that for another time and another issue of this venerable organ. The following morning sees almost blizzard-like conditions as we set off on a route of roughly 300km, but the interior is as welcoming as ever. It’s weird using the heaters, but the cabin is soon toasty and enveloping me in feel-good sensations – I feel secure in here. It’s safe through the slush and standing water on the roads and even the occasional patch of ice isn’t enough to upset progress as I power on, revelling in the almighty punch it delivers every time I floor the throttle. Every component seems to be finely honed for each specific job, everything working together in complete harmony to make sure the experience for driver and passenger alike is beyond compare. It’s a truly superb car and no, even if I had enough money to buy and run a W12 and had no environmental awareness whatsoever, I would still plump for the V8. It feels like a sports car on a track but you can still travel huge distances in it without feeling the slightest bit flustered. With a CO2 output rating of 275g/km, it’s heartening to note that a Bentley can still drive, look and sound like a Bentley should, and that when car company bosses say they’re serious about changing the way their products harm the planet, they’re actually serious. The GT V8, at first, sounded like a bad idea (although nothing like as bad as the monkfish-on-wheels SUV they unveiled to gasps of horror at the Geneva show), but in reality it’s the best thing Bentley has ever built, and that’s quite a statement.
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Swiss Cheers As James McCarthy takes an(other) opinionladen look through the offerings of a subdued Geneva Motor Show he finds that, despite hard market conditions, some seriously haute metal is still being forged by the big boys.
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The Bentley EPX9-F SUV Concept..
W
ith the weakening of the Euro as a viable currency and rising fuel prices casting a pall over the industry, many of the mainstream motor manufacturers were embracing an austere attitude at this year’s Geneva Motor Show. Most of them; Mercedes, Fiat, VW and GM included, unveiled cars that could be run on a budget; smaller and more family - and environment - friendly vehicles that they all hope will make more sense to a struggling market, especially as factory backlots continue to overspill with unsold saloons. In the face of another likely Euro-zone recession, Europe’s car market heads into its fifth straight year of declining sales and as the debt crisis, exacerbated by an imploding Greek economy, portends even more, hoping for better times seems to be no longer an option.
This is evident in the number of luxury car manufacturers turning to the SUV platform that served Porsche so well with the Cayenne. Yes, these cars are still expensive and, in some cases, very gas-guzzling, but if it means you can condense the luxury into a single car to ship the family around, surely that makes greater financial sense, right? Well, I’m not so sure, but what it does give these manufacturers is the opportunity to exploit markets where the luxury SUV is king, and a “mine is bigger than yours” mentality extends to wallets as well as cars, in a bid to bolster income, or the lack thereof, from the currently depressed Euro-zone markets.
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Of course I am talking about the GCC and China, mostly, but India’s stature is growing as a market for free-spending millionaires. Let’s not forget that Russia, too, still has a great deal of financial clout, thanks to the billions of dollars commanded by its oligarchs. It doesn’t matter where the money comes from, as long as the cheques clear and keep the coffers ticking over in Western Europe.
The Space Race In the wake of the hideous looking (and ridiculously named) Maserati Kubang in Frankfurt, Geneva was always going to deliver a raft of luxo-barge space wagons. For instance, it was no secret that Bentley was going to announce an SUV this time around and, to be fair, it is not a great leap from the super-sized, leather-upholstered and rich mahogany-laden W12-powered gentleman’s clubs they already produce for them to come up with a fat version of the Continental GT. Personally, I am not a fan of the aesthetics (it’s the nicest way I could say it in print) of the Bentley EXP9-F. I think it looks like the boys at Crewe simply stapled the grille of a Conti GT to an inflated Mini Clubman; but fortunately, beauty is not just skin deep. Underneath the hood, Bentley performance reigns supreme, with a 6.0-litre, twin-turbocharged W12 engine coupled to an 8-speed transmission. The company says that the recently-launched 4.0 litre, twin-turbocharged V8 or even (gasp) a hybrid drivetrain could also meet the performance requirements of the new Bentley bus. There were no more performance stats on offer, apart from a claim that the car still produces 600bhp and 80nm of torque. Also joining the race was Jaguar. With considerable market experience right across the hallway in the offices of its sister brand, Land Rover, I expect that this could work out well. The Jaguar XF Sportbrake, as the name suggests, is based on the lithe sportiness of the brilliant XF range and is powered by Jag’s four-cylinder 2.2-litre and V6 3.0-litre diesel engines. The company reckons success will come on the back of its “exemplary combination of refinement, fuel economy, low emissions, plentiful power and refinement.” Did they mention that it’s refined? In fact, it looks more like an XF “estate” than an SUV and, so far (at least until the Beijing Motor Show), is the front runner in terms of cars-cum-SUVs that I
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The Jaguar XF Sportbrake..
can stand looking at. On paper, powered by the XF powertrain, I wouldn’t expect the Sportbrake to be a slouch in terms of performance either, though JLR didn’t provide specs for the concept. The last newsworthy SUV concept to hit the showfloor was Range Rover’s Evoque Convertible. After throwing down the design gauntlet with the “coupe” version last year, then wowing the crowds with the Land Rover DC100 Sport at Frankfurt,
it seems like JLR liked the idea of a drop top 4x4 so much, they took an axle grinder to its Range Rover fashion wagon. Personally, I love it and I think it will clean up in markets such as the GCC, where top-down driving is viable for large swathes of the year, and doing that in a large powerful off-road SUV is a novelty that many here will love.
The Range Rover Evoque Convertible..
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Molten Metal Despite all the depressing stuff, Geneva did pour out some seriously sexy metal this year, which, frankly, is what we all want to hear about. Despite the best efforts of an everincreasing army of tree-hugging beardy-types, mammoth V12 engines are not dead yet, as the Maranello masters demonstrated with the pant-wettingly beautiful Ferrari F12 Berlinetta. As well as being the most powerful and high-performance road-going Ferrari ever built, there is literally not a single angle from which this Prancing Horse doesn’t look stunning. Pininfarina and Maranello’s Centro Stile have completely outdone themselves this time. As well as imagining, in my special “alone moments,” just how amazing this car will sound when tearing through the Italian countryside, in reality you just know this thing will burn road quicker than the heat from a dying star, thanks to its 730bhp, top speed of 339km/h and 8.5 second sprint from a standing start to 199 of those. These impressive stats are also aided by the car’s innovative aerodynamics, thanks to two clever pieces of design engineering. Firstly, an Aero Bridge that uses the shape of the F12’s bonnet to funnel air down towards the sides of the car to increase downforce. Then its Active Brake Cooling, which opens vanes to the cooling ducts at high operating temperatures to reduce drag. Additionally, an all-new aluminium spaceframe chassis mixes different kinds of alloys to reduce weight and improve structural rigidity by up to 20 percent. In turn, this helps the V12 beast flick a perfectly justified twofingered salute to the environmental lobby, thanks to a 30 percent less fuel consumption than its closest Maranello rival. Couple that with CO2 emissions of just 350g/km, and it becomes clear that if polar bears had opposable thumbs, even they would drive an F12 Berlinetta. Take that, Al Gore!
AC Cars’ 378 GT Zagato..
As much joy as I get at poking fun at environmentalist car haters, it didn’t compare to the thrill of seeing that the old school British marque, AC Cars, is back with its first launch in a very long time. The $140,500 AC 378 GT Zagato was definitely one of the surprise new cars to hit the show floors at Geneva and will only be sold in the UK and Germany. AC Cars is 110 years old, and the svelte new coupe, which packs some serious heat under its hood, courtesy of a 434bhp-tuned 6.2-litre V8 lifted from GM’s Chevy Camaro, is the perfect way to celebrate. However, the birthday fun doesn’t stop there. The company also unveiled a modern retooling of its classic Cobra, the AC Mk VI, which once again utilises a Chevy block; this time a 430bhp, V8 effort from the Corvette, and will ship with a price tag of around $147,500. Sweeping onward after a healthy dose of Anglo-Germanic auto, we alight on that most mental of Italian exotics, Lamborghini. The crafty Sant’Agata lot nearly convinced us at the recent Doha Motor Show that Geneva wasn’t the one to watch, instead pointing us further East in April for the big news. However, Geneva saw the unveiling of possibly the most exclusive Lambo ever to leave the Bullpen: the, quite literally, one-of-a-kind Lamborghini Aventador J (the “J” is a tip of the hat to both the 1970 Jota, a Miura with improved performance and virtually redesigned in every detail, and the rules of the FIA’s “Appendix J,” which defines the technical specification of race cars in the various classes). Looking like something more akin to a science fiction movie prop, the roofless, windscreenless car is technically based on the platform of the amazing Aventador LP 700-4, but in
Ferrari’s F12 Berlinetta..
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The Lamborghini Aventador J..
this open version, the monocoque has a largely new design, including two safety bars behind the seats. The absence of a roof and large windshield, as well as some Middle East-essential electronics, lowers weight even further. Then there are the soft furnishings. In its first automotive application, Lamborghini has been liberal with its use of a new carbon fibre fabric called “Carbonskin,” made of woven carbon fibres soaked with a very special epoxy resin that stabilises the fibre structure and keeps the material soft. Back to the science fictiony bit, then, as the company claims that the space-age material fits perfectly to every shape. In the Aventador J, the complete cockpit, along with parts of the seats, are doused in the stuff. Such is its pliability as a material, Lambo has us believing that, in the future, our underwear could even be made from it. Batman’s probably already is. With the $2.6 million-plus-tax price for this one-offwonder nearly as extreme as the design of the car itself, let’s talk about what the lucky owner will not be getting for his hard-earned cash; firstly, a windscreen. While this may not seem as important on, say, a Caterham 7 or an Ariel Atom, the Aventador J is capable of speeds in excess of 300km/h. So, in order not to have the driver’s head torn off by centrifugal forces and wind buffeting that would make an afternoon in West Bay seem “just a bit breezy,”
Lambo has designed twin air deflectors, which are just two, small, see-through humps on the front that, in the absence of any explanation from the Bull-building boffins, one assumes will just disperse the wind past both driver and terrified passenger. The company does offer some advice for dealing with such exposure to the elements, though, simply stating that “the right clothing is a prerequisite for every trip.” Thanks for that, Lambo. The car also doesn’t come equipped with a navigation or audio system. Air con, too, is seen as an extravagance that would simply detract from the car’s raison d’être, which is to scare the living pants off you. It is an automobile that appears to have been designed by a raving madman who has done so, just for the sake of its sheer lunacy. As such, that probably makes it the best thing that Lamborghini has ever made.
To Infiniti and Beyond The most interesting of the concept cars, for me at least, came from none other than Nissan posh boys, Infiniti. The Japanese maker unveiled its first mid-engined sports car concept called the Infiniti Emerge-E. Of course, with that many capital Es, coupled with the fact it is the first Infiniti that has been developed in Europe, it is obviously a green machine. Despite these points, I am putting my faith in the fact that a) it looks awesome and b) its parent company is still the same Nissan that created the GT-R. To be fair, the mid-engined twin electric motor does pump out a solid 402bhp and is capable of chucking the car from zero to 100km/h in just four seconds, as well as from zero to 209km/h in a single, seamless 30-second burst. It is credit to Infiniti, then, that it can do all this as zero-emission car over a 30-mile range. A three cylinder range-extending petrol engine can also function alongside the twin electric motors, though even then it only pumps 55g/km of CO2 into the atmosphere - yet another win for the polar bears.
The Infiniti Emerge-E Concept..
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l i fe s t y l e
My, Oh, Maia Senior Editor Steven Paugh sails away to the Seychelles, and in the process, gets lost in a world of luxury.
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ike most fascinating people, I am very often set-upon by a profusion of interesting looks from those around me. I like to think this is thanks to my magnetic personality, but let’s be honest, it’s probably just my piquant musk. Perhaps the most “acute” of these reactions are those that I elicit from my loving fiancée. Each one espouses (if you’ll pardon the marital pun) any point in the wide range of emotions at her disposal, from a sort of innocent, childlike sense of wonder to a vague, yet measurable discontent. It was no different when I informed her that we would be spending our winter holiday in the most luxurious and exclusive resort within the Seychelles archipelago. Knowing that she would be staying in the internationally renowned MAIA Luxury Resort & Spa on the main island of Mahé, she very quickly enjoyed the “keen” end of her emotional spectrum. However, thanks to my personal eccentricities, her disposition soon ran to the latter with the proportionate speed of a Kenyan sprinter. Admittedly, this change was based largely on the “Manilow Syndrome” I developed from the moment we arrived and which continued pretty much the entire length of our stay. “Why do you keep whistling that song?” she oft inquired, with an indignation that became increasingly more British. Unfortunately, I had no answer. The heart, after all, expresses its marvel through a plethora of different media. Sometimes, mine does so through writing. Other times, it manifests through the magic of jazz dance or the jaunty birdsong version of well-known Hollywood theme tunes. In this case, I opted for the song or, more specifically, the melody, from Jurassic Park .
You might think that strange, and you would be right, but in my defense, the Seychelles is a place that roars with ancient natural beauty, and immediately evokes the same awe as that felt within the non-dinosaur protagonists of Jurassic Park. Unlike them, however, the only things we were consumed by were beauty and colour, the like of which neither of us had ever before borne witness to. Everywhere you look in the Seychelles, impossible greens crash about in surging forest hills and across frozen swells of granite, meeting, in a froth, the piercing blue of an Indian Ocean that meanders around the 150 islands that comprise the nation like a canvas of rippling sapphirine glass. Indeed, it still appears today as something straight out of the Jurassic period; unspoiled and natural, it is a true Lost World. Thus it was, with an evocative backdrop provided by our natural surrounds, and a musical accompaniment provided (much to Katy’s chagrin) by me, that we readied ourselves to be transported even further into the new soul of ancient Seychellois beauty. MAIA Luxury Resort & Spa, like nowhere else on the islands, taps into the inherent beauty luxuriating within the Seychelles, and serves it to its guests like one of the coconuts that grow naturally there. It is the sweet flesh, hidden, but laid bare after shucking and devouring a world of texture and wild wonder. Try as you might, when it is offered, you will find it impossible not to hungrily lap it up with the relish of a fresh castaway. To put it simply, there is no better place in the Seychelles to slake your thirst for luxurious nourishment than MAIA. Immediately upon crossing the threshold of MAIA, which bids you welcome through the seamless growth of a thatched archway within a dense thicket of vegetation, you feel the resort’s presence ... or indeed lack thereof. MAIA’s philosophy is a simple one - “Peace and Privacy” - and it comes handed down directly from its namesake. In Greek mythology, Maia was the diminutive daughter of the mighty Atlas, who, known for her gentility, was named the goddess of spring, and is even today remembered for her grace and beauty during the month named after her: May.
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In the same way, MAIA meets its visiting pilgrims with a divinely demure spirit. There is no check-in desk, no bellhop, no receptionist and no concierge. Every aspect of your stay (including your food and even music preferences) are arranged before you arrive. There are no trappings of the expected, as in other clichéd resort experiences; there is simply a deep and inviting forest, and a lone, smiling man, beseeching you, hand-on-heart, to go with him into the waiting jungle. Just so we’re clear, thematically speaking, following a strange man into the woods would be a very bad idea in Jurassic Park. At MAIA, however, it’s a bit more like Alice following the white rabbit into Wonderland, and it is the first step to one of the most amazing voyages you will ever undertake. In our case, this man’s name was Vishal, and his ubiquitous yet subtle presence ended up being one of MAIA’s most welcome charms. Unlike most other highly-touted butler services within five-star accommodation, MAIA’s feels ... organic. I don’t normally take advantage of such things on my travels, preferring to do or arrange most things myself, but at MAIA, it is part and parcel of the experience as a whole and became, in a way, like breathing; I was aware it was going on, but it became such a natural process, I really didn’t notice it ... until it stopped. Everything at MAIA is done through your butler and with the exception of the few rare moments when you happen to bump into other guests who are similarly “stranded” in sumptuousness, he will be your only contact with the outside world. After snaking through the well-kept winds of vivid foliage that inspired the South African Landscapers Institute to name MAIA’s gardens the “Best Landscape and Turf Maintenance in Africa,” we finally arrived at what appeared to be a smaller, wooden version of the gate in King Kong. Hanging on its handle, equally enigmatically, was what appeared to be a pre-op siamese twin coconut, but was in actuality the very symbol of the Seychelles: the visually suggestive coco de mer, or “coconut of the sea.”
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“We call the coco de mer our ‘tree of life,’” Vishal tells us, further explaining that every part of the tree can be used for something in Seychellois life, whether it is food, shelter or transportation. In this case, its second life is lived in the name of peace, privacy and tranquility ... as our Do Not Disturb sign. As Vishal gingerly removes it and opens the door from which it hangs, he steps aside and welcomes us to our private villa, and suddenly, I feel lost all over again. As Katy and I walk down a path that leads into a private garden, and see just in the distance a deck overlooking the Indian Ocean, I think to myself, “Wait...where is our room?” And then I realise, this is it. MAIA does not separate its guests from the natural environment, it incorporates you into it. Surrounded on all sides by the jungle we have just traversed, our private villa is not only the precipice palace lording over what is, for all intents and purposes, our own private empire of sand and sea, it is also woven into the nature that swells around and against its walls. Made up of two main structures - the outdoor lounge, dining area and bar (which welcomes every guest with a complimentary bottle of champagne) and the main cabana, which houses the bed and bathrooms, the entire villa evokes the feeling of something fictional millionaire Thurston Howell, III might have lived in on Giligan’s Island. The spine that brings this body of relaxation together is a villa-length infinity pool (another feature in each MAIA villa), which overlooks the sea and, indeed, an infinity of Seychellois beauty. Within the far end of the pool, flaunting itself like a pearl set in blue topaz, is the outdoor jacuzzi, in which a special bath can be arranged and drawn by your butler. Vishal was kind enough to surprise us with one during an afternoon, and I can personally say there is nothing quite like sitting in an outdoor, flower petal-festooned bath and toasting the setting sun with a glass of champagne. A close second, however, is taking in the view from one of the three outdoor showers at the villa, a feat you can
enjoy safe in the knowledge that you are blissfully secluded. Luckily, all of these options are available to every guest of MAIA, no matter where his or her villa is placed. While allowing access to different parts of MAIA’s expansive private peninsula, all of the resort’s signature villas have relatively the same space, layout and features, but at the same time, each comes with its own set of seductions. The few beachfront properties, for example, have amazing front lawns and fun hidden paths to a gently lapping sea, and are ideal for small families, while those at or near the top of the hill boastfully curate breathtaking vistas, especially near the resort’s private helipad - yeah, they have one of those, by the way. We were lucky enough to get the only of MAIA’s signature villas with access to its own private beach, which really made it the best of both (Lost) worlds. Life at MAIA is a slow, timeless saunter, where everything you could possibly want comes at the lazy press of a button, and arrives from the depths of nature with an unwavering smile. It is safe to say that the three days I spent at MAIA were unlike anything I have ever experienced for Sur la Terre, and it is by far the most indulgent of anything we have ever covered in my tenure here, which is saying a lot. So in-tuned was I to the haute harmony of the resort’s ethos, both in its luxurious offerings and closeness to the natural world, that prying myself away was next to impossible. It has been months since my stay at MAIA, and I can still smell the ocean on the dewey wind of an early Seychellois morning. I can still taste the fresh seafood lovingly cooked by our own private chef, and enjoyed under the canopy of stars that decorated our evenings. I can still hear the music of the rainforest at night, and with the complete forgiveness of my fiancée, whistle along to the tune it inspired within me, and dream of my life in a Lost World of luxury.
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whErE to Eat Tec-Tec restaurant: Mirroring the spirit of MAIA as a whole, Tec-Tec exists as a culinary enclave set amongst thatched cabanas and a canopy of trees. Its small army of chefs, each one specialising in a world region, includes Arabic, French and Creole, amongst others. We decided to try the local fare. The bespoke meal he catered for us started with gorgeous deep-fried prawns, which were followed by what is called a “Millionaire Salad” (getting its name from the much-prized palm hearts at its base) and then a sampler of fresh fish cooked in bamboo and an amazing octopus curry, a local favourite. When finished with a fried banana and coconut sorbet dessert, this was a culinary story we lapped up with much glee. Your room: With all due respect to Tec-Tec, the best food you will experience at MAIA will be via room service. Opt for MAIA’s signature private BBQ, which is a smorgasboard of lobster, the highest quality beef and local vegetables, all prepared to perfection invilla by your own private chef and served by your butler. This toothsome repast is the freshest, most delectable and by far most romantic thing we experienced on any of the islands, and was quite possibly THE highlight of the entire trip.
what to do Island Excursions: While the islands of the Seychelles are not as easy to access as other geographically similar regions (such as the Maldives), hopping from Mahé to others, such as the incomparably beautiful La Digue and Praslin, is made effortless at MAIA by arranging day trips with your butler. On Mahé, I personally recommend a trip to Le Jardin du Roi Spice Garden, which is very close by and definitely deserving a trip by anyone who wants to see how a spice garden and rainforest can coexist peacefully with the Seychelles’ most famous denizens, giant tortoises! deep Sea discovery: Motorised boats are not allowed around MAIA’s private peninsula, which only adds to the peace, so you’ll have to go a bit more “analogue” near the resort, with canoes and kayaks available to traverse the surface of the Indian Ocean, and local scuba courses and equipment available for deeper exploration. More adventurous excursions, such as fishing trips, jet skiing jaunts and parasailing adventures can all be arranged with your butler, however, and MAIA will be happy to drop you where the action is. The MaIa Spa: not usually one for spa treatments, it took MAIA’s affable general manager, Frederic Vidal, to convince me that experiencing the resort’s world-famous services was a must. The nearly innumerable treatments at the spa, which take place in any one of its 120m2 pavillions, each of which features its own garden, changing rooms and showers, all looked impressive, but our 90-minute couple’s massage was more than enough to make a believer out of me, and inspire “I told you so” taunts from my fiancée.
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Sizes range from 38 up to 54 Villaggio 4413 5064
B E AUTY
The Fragrant Garden
Photographed by Fred Chapotat www.fredchapotat.com , Photographer’s assistant and retouching : UH armony, S tyled by Jean-Pierre V iafora www.mtproductions .net, S tylist’s assistant: Jennifer Lumbroso. The One by Dolce & Gabbana for men. Jewellery by Vhernier. Crab : White gold brooch with diamonds, crystals and Frog : White gold brooch with diamonds, crystals, carnelian and jade. Frog : White gold brooch with diamonds, crystals , onyx and jade. Large caterpillar : W hite gold brooch with diamonds , crystals and onyx. Small C aterpillar : W hite gold brooch with diamonds , crystals and jade. gemstones.
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Guilty by Gucci for her. N°19 Poudré by Chanel for her.
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. sur la terre . market place .
“A n y c ustomer ca n have a car pai n ted a n y colou r that he wa n ts ... so lo ng as it is black .� - He n r y Fo r d , o n h i s Mo d e l T
Origins
Esprit De
Corps
Like Enzo was Ferrari and Frank is Williams, Colin Chapman was Lotus. Conceiving, designing and constructing racing cars was not merely a career, it was his very existence. Sur la Terre looks at the rich racing pedigree and noble heritage of the quintessentially British sports car marque.
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1982 Lotus Esprit Turbo..
A
vivacious spirit, eagerness and brilliance of success. What do these three great characteristics have in common?
Well, first off, each of them could be applied Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman CBE, the founder of Lotus; whose lust for speed and eagerness to win, along with an intelligence and ability to innovate, enabled his creations to attain both commercial success and sporting glory. Secondly, when you apply his design philosophy, by simplifying each one and “adding lightness,” you condense them into three descriptive words, Esprit, Élan and Éclat. These are not just any words, of course, but the names of cars, the meanings of which not only espouse the characteristics of their creator, but have become badges of British automotive excellence in the sports car arena. When it comes to British sports cars, there are few manufacturers that can match the pedigree and success of Norfolk-based Lotus. Of course, Aston Martin can boast a few Le Mans titles, as can Jaguar and Bentley (which also has a couple of early Grands Prix to its name), while Triumph and Mini enjoyed some success on the World Rally Stage in the 1970s before the Germans invaded with the allconquering Audi Quattro. But as the rest of the best of British enjoyed sporadic successes on the track, between 1958 and 1994, Lotus’ cars were consistent in racking up no fewer than 79 out of 491 Grands Prix, collecting seven F1 World Championships as Constructors alongside its six Drivers’ titles. The little British car that could also went across the pond to the Indianapolis 500 and won, as well as a constant string of class wins at the Le Mans 24-Hours. That’s a pretty impressive record, before the shutters finally went down on the racing arm of the business.
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Jim Clark and Colin Chapman celebrate the 1963 F1 Championship..
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For [Chapman], conceiving, designing and constructing racing cars was not merely a career, it was his very existence. His restless intelligence thrived on competition and, where he led, others eagerly followed. During this time, Lotus established a racing pedigree that fuelled the development of some of the most entertaining, stylish and enjoyable two-door sports cars to tear down a public highway. From the iconic Lotus Seven (the design and construction rights to which were sold in 1973 to Caterham Cars, who still produce it to this day), which found cult status in the 1960s TV series, The Prisoner, to the sweeping curves of The Elite, The Élan and The Europa. Then there was the Éclat and the Esprit, both which capitalised on the trend set by Lamborghini, Lancia and Maserati for wedge-shaped sports coupes. The 1977 Esprit Series 3 Turbo became a global superstar and an icon of 1980s British Supercars when Roger Moore was presented with one that had submarine capabilities in the 1981 James Bond flick The Spy Who Loved Me.
Patrick McGoohan (L), star of The Prisoner, with his iconic Lotus Seven..
Driven to Succeed
To really explore the history of Lotus and understand the ethos behind the cars and their success on road and track, you have to meet the man behind the marque, whose initials still adorn the company crest. The story of Lotus is inextricably bound up with the pioneering and hectic life of Colin Chapman. For him, conceiving, designing and constructing racing cars was not merely a career, it was his very existence. His restless intelligence thrived on competition and where he led, others eagerly followed, such was his charisma. With a degree in structural engineering, Chapman learned to fly during his National Service in the Royal Air Force and served an apprenticeship at aircraft manufacturer, De Havilland, where he became familiar with state-of-the-art aeronautical technology. His first steps in car design embraced aircraft principles. Joined by a trio of De Havilland design engineers, Mike Costin, Peter Ross and Gilbert “Mac” Macintosh, Chapman and his associate Michael Allen espoused 750 Motor Club ideals and came up with the Lotus Mk 6, forerunner of the famous Lotus Seven. By the late-1950s Chapman was operating a DIY race car service, through which he provided the customer with the components of a car that they built and raced. Chapman creamed off the start money, bonuses and winnings as well as retaining ownership of the car. Up-and-coming drivers like Graham Hill and Trevor Taylor could handle state-of-the-art machinery like the Eleven and Type 18, which they knew inside out as they’d constructed the cars themselves. This was an extension of the self-build philosophy that prevailed in the post-war years, and Chapman founded the Lotus road car business producing Mk 6s and Sevens in component form on the back of the purchase tax-free rules governing kit car sales.
James Bond with his 1977 Lotus Esprit Turbo..
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A handy racing driver himself, he won numerous races in his own sportsracing cars in the early 1950s and he was hired by the Vanwall F1 team as third driver alongside Mike Hawthorn and Harry Schell for the French GP at Reims in 1956; a crash during practice put paid to his ambitions, as his insurance company forbade him to race thereafter. It was a pivotal moment; no longer the racer, he would henceforth be a constructor.
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The Lotus Type 49 (sans rear wing) in.. which Lotus enjoyed success in the late 1960s..
Colin Chapman CBE, Founder and Chief Engineer of Lotus..
It was the Mk 9 with which Chapman made his first entry at Le Mans, but it was the sublime Lotus Eleven, made from 1956 to ‘58, that yielded class wins at Le Mans three years running. The Elite sportscar appeared in December 1958, as elegant as anything to emerge from an Italian styling house. Not just a pretty face, it won its class at Le Mans six years running and took Lotus into the mainstream car industry. Meanwhile, the Type 33 F1 car was driven by Jim Clark to two World crowns in ‘63 and ‘65, with its ground-breaking aluminium monocoque tub setting the agenda for a generation of F1 cars. At the same time, Lotus was getting more involved in saloon car racing with the Cortina, sports racing with the Type 23, Formulae 2 and 3, as well as the Indianapolis 500. It seems as though Chapman virtually founded the British racing car industry. Where Chapman led, the rest followed. In 1967, the Type 49 was first to run an engine configuration, whereby the 3.0-litre Cosworth DFV engine was bolted directly to the rear chassis bulkhead. Previously it had been mounted within a spaceframe or monohull. A couple of
seasons on, this engine configuration was ubiquitous across the grid on everything but the Ferrari. Lotus was the first European constructor to experiment with lofty adjustable rear wings, mounted on the Type 49’s rear uprights. The driver could tilt the aerofoil to achieve more downforce as he approached the bend and feather it on exit for maximum straight line speed. Chapman and Lotus entered a period of pioneering creativity and racing dominance throughout the 1970s, so much so, that people waited to see what Chapman would do, then copy it. As they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and Chapman himself wasn’t above that. Enzo Ferrari produced and sold road cars to enable him to go racing, and Chapman held the same philosophy. Moreover, this ambition spurred him on to a great extent, resulting in the upmarket shift from Elan sportscar to wedge-shaped Elite Grand Tourer in 1974. With the launch of the Giugiaro-styled Esprit in 1975 and the turbocharged version in 1980, Lotus was knocking on the door of the exalted supercar brigade.
The Lotus Mk 9 with which Lotus made its Le Mans debut..
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The Original Lotus Elan, superceded by the Elite and later the Esprit..
Around that time, the Type 88 twin-chassis F1 car, along with the McLaren MP4/1, became one of the first cars to employ carbon fibre in large quanties - a practice that these days is no longer confined to the racetrack. However, after the Type 88 was banned from competing because of its unique design of having one chassis inside another (an ingenious way to curcumvent the newly-enforced ban on side skirts), Chapman was considering turning his back on the F1 authorities and preparing to focus his talents on the development of microlight planes when he died of a heart attack, aged just 54.
The controversial Type 88 twin-chassis F1 car in action..
It is perhaps the greatest testament to the man that, during his lifetime, Chapman saw Lotus beat Ferrari to becoming the first team to achieve 50 Grands Prix, despite Ferrari having won their first nearly a decade earlier than Lotus. Despite the loss of one of the great automotive innovators and such a strong character at the helm, Lotus continued to develop racing cars and road cars that thrilled drivers and motorsports fans alike. Until the late 1980s, with the likes of Nigel Mansell at the wheel, Lotus continued to be a major player in Formula One, pioneering the use of active suspension as well as winning with the great Ayrton Senna who, between 1985 to 1987, achieved 17 pole positions. By the time the chequred flag dropped on Lotus’ last Formula One race in 1994, the cars were no longer competitive and Team Lotus bowed out gracefully.
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Former F1 World Champion, Nigel.. Mansell,..cut his racing teeth at Team Lotus..
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Ayrton Senna, one of the greatest F1 drivers of all time, drove with Lotus between 1985-87
The new Lotus Esprit is due to arrive in 2013..
With the launch of the Giugiaro-styled Esprit in 1975, Lotus was knocking on the door of the exalted supercar brigade. After 28 years, the arrival of a new Esprit in 2013 could see Lotus reaching for the doorbell once again. -
History Repeated
Fast forward to 2012, and Chapman’s beloved Lotus is once again competing at the highest levels of Formula One with the new Renault-Lotus E20, and on the road with the current range of the Elise, Exige and Evora S. The next five years will also see a raft of new street-legal Lotuses roll off the production line. Perhaps the most exciting will be an all-new Lotus Esprit. With design cues reminiscent of the Lamborghini Gallardo, it is due to hit the streets next year. Powered by a 4.8-litre Lotus Performance V8 pressure-charged engine, it will surely become as much of an icon as its 1980s forebear. The Esprit will be followed by the Lotus Elite, a front mid-engine four seat V8 GT that is slated for release in the spring of 2014. The following year, an updated Lotus Elise will make its debut and, by 2017, there will be a new Lotus Élan which will feature a 4.0-litre V6. There are also plans for a four-door, four-seater sports GT with a 5.0-litre V8, the Lotus Eterne, which will be designed to compete with the Porsche Panemera, Aston Martin’s Rapide and the Maserati Quattroporte.
The Lotus Evora S..
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With a clear vision of where the company is headed in the next few years, it appears that Chapman’s philosophy of “Simplicate, then add lightness” still holds true, though not necessarily for the cars themselves. However, the roadmap is simple and, in this case, the “lightness” is the shimmer of a bright future for the plucky British marque.
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Thus Bespoke
Harrods Ever since Qatar Holding bought Harrods from controversial Egyptian businessman, Mohammed Al Fayed, in the early days of 2010, the international community has been clamouring to see just how the brand would evolve.
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erhaps in a bid to prove that its quintessentially British integrity would be upheld, though, things at “The World’s Best-Loved Corner Shop” have remained pretty much the same for the past two years.
However, just as H.E. the Prime Minister, Sheikh Hamad bin Jassim bin Jabr al-Thani said directly after the monumental purchase, “We are dedicated to making Harrods even better.” As the new developments at the store will prove, this statement was anything but hyperbole. Not only has the iconic store doubled its 90,000 sq m of space to accommodate a new Fine Watch room, which now houses Europe’s largest watch collection, as well as a Fine Jewellery room, which celebrates over 100 years of Harrods’ gemstone heritage, it is also contextualising its motto, “Omnia Omnibus Ubique” (All Things for All People, Everywhere) with a brand-new retinue of bespoke services.
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Under the directive of its new dedicated events arm, dubbed “Bespoke Events - Designed & Delivered by Harrods,” everyone’s favourite Knightsbridge haute spot has created some pretty exciting packages that will give exclusive access to its estimated 15 million annual visitors. Sur la Terre got a sneak peek, and we are happy to announce the menu of new events, which will be ready starting in September 2012.
The Olympics Package Celebrating the London 2012 Olympic Games, which will have just wrapped, Harrods will offer its guests an exclusive bevy of golden opportunities to enjoy the brand in a whole new way. Including private breakfasts and its world-famous afternoon teas, the Olympics Package will also offer behind-the-scenes tours of the store, each one customtailored to the interests of those in attendance. As indulgent as this particular package is for the individual, it also offers what will prove to be amazing events for larger groups, including special wine tastings, bespoke cigar tutorials and even dinner and dance evening events.
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Supper Clubs
External Events
This one taps directly into the great British lineage of the store. Beginning with a Diamond Jubilee Party within the famed Food Halls on May 31, the series of Supper Clubs that will take place at Harrods throughout 2012 will offer after-hours access, which will surely tantilise the tastes of its guests. Using at its basis the “Dine Around” tradition of the United Kingdom, Harrods is all set to serve up some modern twists on favourite classics, including potted shrimp, mini fish & chips and lip-smackingly quirky cocktails, such as rhubarb and raspberry martinis.
Harrods, of course, is a brand that transcends the walls of its main store and locations elsewhere. It is a presence that follows you from when you first enter and leave swinging the instantly recognisable green bag. Encapsulating that “Everywhere” part of its maxim, the External Events will allow you to bring the unique Harrods experience and quality to you, no matter where you want to be. In fact, in an effort to help source both ideas and places, Harrods has teamed up with One Events, allowing its customers the use of, amongst other lush event sites, the Grade 1-listed Mayfair and One Marylebone venues, which are ideal for the most sumptuous and unforgettable balls, parties and dinners. Speaking of dinner, this particular package will also allow customers to bring all of the culinary masterpieces available at the Food Halls and Restaurants to them. It will truly bring new meaning to the term “take away.”
Children’s Parties Not forgetting its more pint-sized patrons, Harrods is unlocking its inner child and opening the doors into the playroom of imagination, offering your little ones some big adventures. While the Harrods team will leave the particulars up to your planning prowess, some of the ideas already on the table for this particular package are a Toy Story Adventure-themed day, a Teddy Bear’s Picnic Party for toddlers and what has been called an “All Glued Up” arts and crafts party. This is not even mentioning the treasure hunts, private shopping-sessions and candy-making classes that will be available to your trendy tykes. There is even rumoured to be a tailor-made menu-making service that will allow parents to cater their kids’ goodie bags with the best treats available from the Harrods Food Halls. Talk about sending a kid to the candy shop.
Harrods has been the epicentre for London’s shopping lifestyle since it was first established by Charles Henry Harrod in 1849, and its evolutionary rise, while not forgetting its familial traditions, has only highlighted its positioning and staying power. The new menu of bespoke events packages will undoubtedly continue its status as a key institution in international retail. Based on all of this, we here at Sur la Terre can’t wait to take part in the bespoke experiences come September, much less see what they come up with next.
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Pasquale Bruni Here at Sur la Terre, we are lucky enough to experience an amazing amount of artistry and excellence from some of the world’s most amazing jewellery ateliers. Not that we don’t love pouring over all those sparkles, but being inundated daily with indulgence sometimes leaves us a bit ... “jaded” ... if you’ll pardon the gemological pun. That is why we get so excited when something truly unique comes across our desk. This recently happened with one of the most significant industry icons in the jewellery business: Pasquale Bruni.
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runi first established a name for himself back in 1976, under his Gioielmoda brand. Using landmark designs and innovative techniques to revolutionise the jewellery world, he helped reinterpret the art of the gemstone and showed, even back then, a keen eye for capturing the light that bounces about naturally within the facets of cut stone. After condensing his business’s identity in the late 90’s into simply “Pasquale Bruni,” the Italian maestro further evolved his image and brand thanks to the talents of his daughter and Creative Director, Eugenia, whose natural passions helped make the brand’s design fingerprint more delicate, enchanting and contemporary. Over the last decade, the Brunis’ creative clout has led to a meteoric rise in its international presence, with exclusive partnerships in the Middle East region via Damas, and flagship stores in Paris, Moscow and Dubai. Qatar itself enjoys an exclusive connection to Pasquale Bruni through ubiquitous stalwarts of luxury, Fifty One East. Indeed, the past ten years have been kind to Pasquale Bruni, but once you get a glimpse of the jewellery designs that emanate like wisps of glittering inspiration from the house, it is easy to see why. The two newest collections that have come down the Bruni pike perfectly exemplify that groundbreaking imagination of the brand, and show how the creative direction is upping the ante everywhere in the world of gemstones.
Pasquale Bruni..
Both collections are singularly unique and beautiful to behold, and even the amazing pictures we share here in Sur la Terre don’t do them justice! We were fortunate to get some face time with them on a recent trip to Fifty One East at Lagoona Mall. During that dazzle-filled trip, Sur la Terre also met with Daniel Bruni, son to Pasquale, who not only spoke volumes about the company’s important partnership with Fifty-One East, but also gve us some interesting insight on the new collections. Pasquale Bruni’s Butterfly Collection is inspired by the delicate spirit of true feminine liberty, and each piece seems to evoke the light and beauty of an unspoiled summer’s eve. Using as it does, white topaz highlights on yellow gold wings as the stylistic fulcrum, around which all of the pieces in this inspirational collection flutter, even the most casual observer will feel Pasquale Bruni’s “creative lightness of being.” In a similarly breathtaking, yet stylistically divergent way, Pasquale Bruni also presents the Bon Ton Collection. This garden of earthly delights uses as the epicentre of its homage, the class and fashions of the 1950s, and timelessly appears as a bouquet of Kogolong white, onyx-black, gold and even precious pinks. Each piece is a flower of precious petals, beset with brilliant bejeweled hearts of diamond, and beautifully encompasses Pasquale Bruni’s attention to what it calls “natural refinement.” With these two newest collections, Pasquale Bruni once again proves that it is an atelier to admire, and should be closely watched for many years to come.
Eugenia Bruni..
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Ringing A
Change
B
ored of your rings? Then let fledgling jewellery brand, Noudar, ring the changes in your perception of Arabesque finger trinkets. Invoking the spirit and aesthetics that shaped the 10th Century Islamic renaissance, but extending their boundaries right to the cutting edge of 21st Century jewellery manufacture and design, Noudar unveiled its first collection pieces at the recent Doha Jewellery & Watches exhibition.
manufacturing philosophy of creating jewellery that becomes one with its wearer, from the way it fits on the finger to how it moves and moulds to the body, creating these pieces has become a constantly evolving process.
Taking a cue from its homeland, the stunning selection of rings and earrings from this new Qatari jewellery brand seamlessly blends tradition with modernity through several spectacular pieces; each one an artistic synergy of design, quality and practicality that evokes not only the luxury of a bygone era but a funky, contemporary style.
Because of the intricacy and the mechanics of the rings especially, the craftsmen have to be incredibly diligent when it comes to the finer details. Everything they learn from creating each piece is adapted into the crafting of the next.
Noudar is the culmination of long held ambition, with every piece designed and conceptualised by the brand’s principal, Noor Alfardan. The foundations of the brand are built on her background in jewellery design and a pedigree borne from her experience working at Chopard in Geneva, as well as designing pieces for other jewellery houses. Each Noudar piece is lovingly created at the hands of a small number of master craftsmen in Italy. By understanding Noudar’s design and
It is an evolution, both in terms of the way Noudar is reinventing the perception of Arabesque jewellery and in the way each piece is born, meaning that every single item is, in its own way, unique. “We pay a lot of attention to the way the pieces are created and the methods used. My entire collection is mainly earrings and rings, because these are the pieces that are most often visible when wearing an abaya. I try them all on myself and I don’t release them until I am a 100 percent satisfied,” Noor explained when SLT met with her at the show. “It is nice to use just a few master craftsmen, who really pay attention to what they are creating. It makes it more personal.” “I want to make jewellery that is a lot more fun and much more accessible, while still maintaining its status as a luxury item,” she added. “With the way the economy has been recently, I think when you are spending so much on a piece of jewellery, it had better be either a good investment or a conversation starter, I like to think Noudar’s pieces are both. “It really is amazing and fun to see the limits you can push those traditional designs and methods to, in order to create something modern that the wearer can enjoy - even if they are just wearing jeans and a t-shirt,” she continued. “When you start to see it as less formal, it becomes much easier to play around with it. “I always wanted to design my own jewellery, where I had full creative license to do what I wanted. With this philosophy of taking Arabic jewellery, which is often considered to be confined to formal occasions, and translating it into a contemporary design, the sky is the limit.”
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ho r izo n s
You don’t need a holiday.
You need Cape Town.
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Cape Town’s Atlantic Seaboard enjoys another perfect day..
Voted one of 2011’s Most Beautiful Cities in the World by Forbes magazine, Cape Town – with its ultra laid-back lifestyle, soft, sandy beaches, verdant winelands and granite mountains – is a metropolitan paradise waiting to be explored. SLT appoints hometown girl, Megan Masterson, to be your guide. -
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ape Town. Take a deep breath and let out a sigh. As those in the know will tell you, this is the city where time practically stands still. No one does suits, Havaianas are perfectly acceptable work shoes and locals can be spotted by their aversion to wearing wristwatches. The rest of South Africa knows it as The Mother City, the joke being that this is because it takes nine months to get anything done here.
And can you blame them? Who wants to be trapped in an office when there’s suntanning to be had at Clifton Beach, a picnic basket to be savoured on the grassy riverbanks of the Spier Wine Estate next to a cheetah reserve or when surfing lessons are being given by Sports Illustrated swimsuit models at Muizenberg? This legendary laid-back attitude is frequently bemoaned by their faster-living northern South African cousins in Johannesburg, but when you’ve been voted Best Destination of 2011 (TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Awards), topping the likes of Rio de Janeiro, Sydney, Paris and New York City; one of 2011’s Most Beautiful Cities in the World (Forbes magazine); World Design Capital 2014; and one of the 10 best cities in which to live in the world (The Telegraph and Sotheby’s International Realty), why would you care? Cape Town is both comfortable and cosmopolitan, wearing its accolades and awards with an insouciant attitude that seems to say, “Well, duh.”
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Surfing is a popular pastime..
Life happens outside With a mere 3.5 million inhabitants spread out between the omnipresent Table Mountain and unspoilt beaches, the city offers the visitor everything they could possibly want from a holiday away from the rest of the world. The air is crisp and clean, thanks to the Cape Doctor, the local nickname for the strong southeasterly wind that regularly clears the city of pollution. Taking full advantage are the inhabitants, often found at outdoor restaurants, bucolic wine estates or sandy beaches, doing what Capetonians seem to do best: lounging. Yet, paradoxically, the city is brimming with adventure sports and adrenaline junkies, with many in pursuit of the outdoorsy lifestyle that makes the most of the Mediterranean climate.
Groot Constantia..
As much as the iconic Table Mountain dominates the skyline, it is also an almost daily destination for hikers, yoga devotees seeking to salute the sun as it rises, mountain bikers, nature enthusiasts, or paragliders and base-jumpers, who climb it only to jump off its rocky precipice. Visiting the top of Table Mountain is a must-do for any visitor, either by walking up one of the well-marked steep paths (a two-and-a-halfhour trek) or by taking the cable car. The spectacular view from the plateau lays out the entire topography of Cape Town, presenting to you the Twelve Apostles, Lion’s Head and Devil’s Peak mountains, the City Bowl (as the CBD is known) and the outlying suburbs.
Poolside at POD Boutique Hotel..
Among these numerous mountain ranges is Chapman’s Peak, which lies between coastal suburbs, Noordhoek and Hout Bay, and is another mustvisit for the tourist. Chapman’s Peak’s twisty-turny road, hewn out of the face of the mountain, is considered one of the most spectacular marine drives in the world. Initially constructed after the First World War, it’s a ninekilometre-route with 114 curves, almost 600 metres above the ocean. Drivers negotiate its hairpin bends while trying to enjoy the jaw-dropping view, though we suggest you pull over to one of the many viewing sites to safely take in the sweeping vista. Note that those who travel Chapman’s Peak by tour bus are only able to travel in one direction – from Hout Bay to Noordhoek – in the interest of safety.
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Penthouse at One & Only Cape Town..
Penguins at Boulders Beach..
If a nerve-wracking drive along Chapman’s Peak isn’t enough to get your heart pumping, then a trip to the ocean could do the trick. Here you can go eye-to-menacing-eye with a Great White shark – an animal at the top of the ocean’s food chain – in its natural habitat. A number of shark cage-diving tours are offered throughout False Bay, which is known internationally as a breeding ground of Great White sharks, so you can be assured of a decent encounter with one of the larger “johnnies” out there.
Take the cable car to the top of the Table Mountain..
Be sure to keep an eye out for The Submarine, a Great White said to be so large that its circumference is equal to that of a Volkswagen minibus. Whether The Submarine exists or is a mere urban legend, stories of sightings and near-misses from local fishermen abound, and are far more entertaining than the usual tales of the “I caught one this big” variety. If you’d prefer to try waters other than False Bay, we recommend Marine Dynamics (www.sharkwatchsa.com), a professional shark cage-diving outfit with a marine biologist on staff, that will pick you up at your hotel and drive you to Gansbaai for the experience of a lifetime. Note that the season for Great White shark cage-diving is May to October. If the Great White gives you the heebie-jeebies, but you’d still like a similar experience, the Two Oceans Aquarium at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront will take divers into their ragged-tooth shark tank, after they’ve been fed their dinner of course.
Enter the shark tank at the Two Oceans Aquarium..
Should sharks, hiking and hair-raising drives not be your thing, a far more relaxing way to enjoy the Cape summer would be attending an outdoor summer concert. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden was the first botanical garden in the world to be established to protect local flora. Located at the foot of Table Mountain, it’s a stunning 1,300-acre garden established in 1913, complete with ponds, streams and paved pathways.
Chapman’s Peak drive..
During summer, Capetonians flock to Kirstenbosch to laze on the lawns and enjoy live music. The natural ampitheatre is an ideal spot to indulge in a gourmet picnic basket (preferably one filled with goodies from Giovanni’s Deli in Green Point) and watch outdoor concerts featuring jazz, R&B, hip hop, folk, rock, big band swing and classical music. The concerts, which are suitable for the entire family to attend, run from November to April and are very popular, so be sure to book tickets ahead of schedule.
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Sundowners at Cafe Caprice in Camps Bay..
Ellerman House..
Planet Bar..
With a neverending landscape for foodies to explore, Cape Town is ready to serve up whatever you’re in the mood for; from fish and chips at Kalk Bay harbour and traditional Malay curries at family-run restaurants in the Bo-Kaap, to a seafood barbecue on the beach up the glorious West Coast or a red meat extravaganza at a vibey, no-frills township spot.
Yet no cuisine quite captures the local lifestyle better than the braai, or barbecue as it’s known throughout the rest of the world. What better way to take advantage of the glorious weather and a Saturday afternoon rugby or football game than to light a fire, grill some meat – and then a lot more meat – and enjoy a social get together as the food slowly caramelises to smoky perfection?
Apart from the low-key dining options, the city boasts five of the S.Pellegrino Top 100 Restaurants in the world, including Jardine’s, Le Quartier Francais, La Colombe, Aubergine and Rust-en-Vrede.
Indeed, to be invited to a local’s home for a braai is to be given a firsthand look at South Africans’ love of red meat – matched perhaps only by the Argentinians – for it is the star of the show. There’s boerewors (a spiced sausage), sosaties (kebabs, or meat threaded onto a skewer), lamb chops, steaks, and then possibly a rack or two of spareribs. In the summer, a seafood braai is also favoured with yellowtail, prawns and kreef (crayfish) taking preference.
Chow time
Cape Town’s culinary history is rich and extensive, peppered with influences from the Dutch settlers, Javanese slaves and immigrants from all over the world, whose contributions have been adjusted and adapted over the centuries to create what is now Cape cuisine. From the Dutch came melktert (a delectable milk tart, similar to a flan), koeksisters (sweet fried pastries), and potjiekos (a meat and vegetable stew slow-cooked in a cast-iron pot over coals). From the Malays came a mouthwatering array of spicy dishes, such as Cape Malay chicken curry, rotis, samoosas and bobotie (a delicately spiced lentil, raisin, rice and mince dish). And the African migrants brought chakalaka (a spicy tomato and onion relish), umqombothi (traditionally brewed beer), smileys (an entire roasted sheep’s head) and pap (a maize-meal porridge similar to grits).
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If you can’t wangle an invitation to a private home, book a tour through your hotel to Mzoli’s, a township butcher in Gugulethu that is frequented by politicians, international celebrities and sports stars, all hankering for an authentic African experience. Here you can buy your meat and have it braaied to your liking as you hang out at your table and take in the unique township vibe. Or take a day trip out of the city, up the West Coast, to Langebaan, where the Strandloper restaurant is a no-frills beachside joint barbecuing all kinds of fish and seafood in a myriad of ways, catering to a food-loving crowd from all over the world.
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Foodie favourites: For the sheer love of food:
Five Flies Restaurant, one of Cape Town’s most iconic restaurants situated inside a national monument, a bank on Keerom Street. The 200-seater restaurant is made up of private dining rooms, a bar that opens onto a courtyard, a cigar lounge, and a dark, intimate wine cellar, originally the bank’s vault, that has only one table set for two.
For the ocean views:
Harbour House, a simple whitewashed building overhanging the rocks of False Bay, where the waves crash below you as you sip your sauvignon blanc and savour your seafood platter. Blues, on Victoria Road, is a Camps Bay institution. This all-white, Californian-style restaurant offers perfect views, so grab a table on the narrow balcony, or request one near the huge windows to celeb-spot or marvel at the beautiful people on Camps Bay beach.
Wakame also lays out a view from a brochure, capturing the stretch from the Lighthouse in Mouille Point, to the lights of Table Bay, where dolphins frolic metres away. With its raised wooden decks with cherry inlays and three-metre-long fish tanks, it is both modern and warm, attracting a trendy crowd enjoying a unique menu that blends Pacific Rim with Asian fusion and French influences.
For a taste of the vineyards:
Immerse yourself in the city’s Dutch colonial history by visiting Groot Constantia, the oldest wine estate in South Africa, and enjoy a meal at one of their award-winning restaurants. Simon’s at Groot Constantia offers a beautiful setting for light, outdoor, casual meals. Or dine under the trees at Jonkershuis Restaurant, where the breakfast menu is especially tempting, as is the list of Cape Malay specialties. Either dining option allows you to take in the vineyards, mountains, distant ocean and Cape Dutch architecture.
For dinner and dancing:
If Frank Sinatra were around today, he would have made it to Pigalle, the Green Point secret that is beloved by locals looking for a special experience. Pigalle is maximalist, a throwback to the old school, with ruby red walls, Art Nouveau chandeliers and oversized paintings, to an era when dinner was served by white-gloved waiters, ladies wore their best dresses and a fantastic meal was enjoyed while watching a live big band playing Rat Pack classics, rounded off with some dancing afterwards.
For an East-meets-West experience:
Kitima in Hout Bay serves incredible Asian food in a centuries-old Cape Dutch homestead. Opulent and luxe, Kitima has private dining rooms, a lounge, bar, veranda and gardens, all dotted with exceedingly comfortable nooks and crannies, and a menu offering the best dim sum, sushi and Thai food in town.
For a refined afternoon:
The influence of the British on the Cape couldn’t be more apparent than it is at Afternoon Tea, served every day at Mount Nelson. In fact, some would say that no visit to Cape Town is complete without the experience. Delicate finger sandwiches filled with roast beef and rocket, smoked salmon or cucumber are accompanied by confectionery, mini-quiches, petit fours and a variety of loose leaf teas. Individual egg-timers are placed beside each teapot to ensure that the correct infusion time is adhered to, and a grand piano tinkles its relaxing tunes throughout the elegant lounge, onto the sunny terrace and into the rose garden.
On the scene:
Bungalow, a newly opened beachside restaurant and lounge at Clifton beach, that is already a firm favourite with the city’s fabulously fashionable – little wonder as Clifton is the home of the billionaire set, and one of the most expensive slices of real estate in the southern hemisphere. While the food is good, Bungalow is the ideal spot to grab a table and watch the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean. Just down the road from Bungalow, in Camps Bay, is Café Caprice, one of the most popular spots in the city. Locals and tourists arrive long before the sunset to bag pavement tables, sip cocktails and chill out. The location is fantastic, literally across the road from Camps Bay beach, making it the ideal spot not only for sundowners but for truly entertaining people-watching. The Planet Bar has no beach view, but it offers an entirely different social experience. Located in the Mount Nelson, it has hosted some seriously famous faces, all of whom are left to enjoy their dry martinis in a classically chic setting. With its glam, almost rarefied atmosphere, it’s where most well-heeled Capetonians – those with the double-barrelled surnames – will likely be found.
Where to stay:
Ellerman House is a classic top-drawer choice, one that featured on the Conde Nast Traveller Gold List 2012. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean above swishy Bantry Bay, it’s all about the finer things in life. A Cape Edwardian mansion with verandahs, tiered gardens and one of the best private art collections in the country, Ellerman House offers luxury rooms, suites and spa rooms. Also part of the hotel is Ellerman Villa, accessed via a private tropical garden. Sleeping six or 10 (if you include the lower-floor), the ultra-modern villa has two swimming pools, uninterrupted views and minimalist interiors typical of the Atlantic Seaboard. www.ellerman.co.za POD, a hip new boutique hotel in Camps Bay, is already proving popular with those who love clean design and a laid-back aesthetic. Quietly discreet with only 15 rooms, wraparound glass walls, raw-wood-clad walls, a lap pool, and a terrific view of the palm-lined beach, it’s no wonder the world’s design-savvy folk are flocking here. www.pod.co.za One & Only Cape Town was South African hotelier, Sol Kerzner’s, first urban One&Only and it’s perfectly situated on prime real estate at the V&A Waterfront. All 131 rooms are at least 60 square metres, and have magnificent views of either Table Mountain or the marina. www.capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com Mount Nelson, or the Pink Lady as it’s affectionately called thanks to its grande dame pale pink façade, is a colonial masterpiece filled with hushed old-school elegance, and is considered one of the best hotels in the world. A firm favourite with Hollywood A-listers and royalty, and for good reason. www.mountnelson.co.za The 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa sits between the mountains and the ocean, on the scenic drive between Camps Bay and Llandudno. This luxury five-star boutique hotel has 55 deluxe rooms and 15 suites, all of which enjoy stunning views and absolutely no neighbours, even though it’s just minutes from Camps Bay, the city and the Waterfront. www.12apostleshotel.com
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