PRESTIGE English Edition 01/2016

VOLUME 2 l SPRING 2016

PROV EN A N C E PR E- OW N ED

Purchasing a Rolls-Royce should always be an exceptional experience, regardless of its age.

That’s why only the finest Pre-Owned Rolls-Royce motor cars attain the Provenance title.

Our uncompromising standards ensure that every Provenance Rolls-Royce motor car not only delivers total reassurance but, thanks to our minimum two-year servicing and Warranty cover, is also a sound investment for the future.

Find us at www.rolls-roycemotorcars-zurich.ch

Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Zurich Stinson-Strasse 2, 8152 Glattpark/Zurich Tel. +41 (0) 43 211 44 41 www.rolls-roycemotorcars-zurich.ch Š Copyright Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Limited 2016. The Rolls-Royce name and logo are registered trademarks.

CONTENTS 70 20

TRAVEL 64 FRASER ISLAND Journey across the biggest sandbox in the world 70 THE BEGINNING OF MASS TOURISM Departure of the tourists

COVER STORY

73 ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT The Father of Modern Fieldwork

20 «COME DANCE WITH US …»

A brief history of dance

74 EXKLUSIVE YACHTCLUBS In the heart of the «Sport of Kings»

38 PRESTIGE PRESENTS …

Imagery you can dance to

77 CELEBRITY HOTSPOTS IN AMERICA From Hollywood to the Hamptons 78 INSIDER VIEW Amsterdam

CULTURE & ART 44 KIEFER SUTHERLAND Career Toppers 49 AGATHA CHRISTIE The Queen of Mystery

44

50 SPRING DIARY From African masks to Cowboy Poetry 52 THE SPIRIT OF AMERICA Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Crazy Horse Memorial 56 DIETER BLUM The photographer of the cowboys 62 GOYA Precision portraits

64 10 | PRESTIGE

M ANUFACTUR E DE H AU TE H OR LOGER IE

TONDA 1950 TOURBILLON Automatic flying tourbillon Platinum micro-rotor Titanium tourbillon cage Hermès calf strap Made in Switzerland www.parmigiani.ch

CONTENTS

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

102

80 WATCHES & WONDERS Exciting news from the world of watchmaking 98 PETER HENLEIN The «Inventor» of the Portable Watch 99 THE PAST IS ALWAYS PRESENT Urban Jürgensen 102 MURDER & DESIRE Diamonds and their crimes

106 DRIVE STYLE 106 VERY BRITISH Morgan 110 IN THE FAST LANE Lewis Hamilton 112 INSIDE FERRARI DESIGN Prestige meets Ferrari 116 CONVERTIBLES The stuff that dreams are made of 120 PACIFIC CRUISING California Car season

120

12 | PRESTIGE

** The Greenhouse gas CO2 is main responsible for the global warming; the average CO2 emission of all offered vehicles in Switzerland is of 139 g/km.

INSTEAD OF HIRING A SUPERMODEL WE BUILT ONE

MASERATI GHIBLI DIESEL. STARTING FROM CHF 67’000.–* MASERATI GHIBLI – AVAILABLE WITH MASERATI’S Q4 INTELLIGENT ALL WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM *

MASERATI GHIBLI DIESEL ENGINE: V6 60° 2987 CC - MAX POWER: 275 HP AT 4000 RPM – MAX TORQUE: 600 NM AT 2600 RPM - MAX SPEED: 250 KM/H 0-100 KM/H ACCELERATION: 6.3 SECS – FUEL CONSUMPTION: (COMBINED CYCLE) 5.9 L/100 KM (PETROL EQUIVALENT 6.6) – CO2-EMISSIONS**: 158 G/KM EFFICIENCY CLASS D Illustrated model: Maserati Ghibli S Q4 with aluminium-brake calipers CHF 95’994.– incl. VAT; List Prices and Offers: Subject to revocation and always actual on maserati.ch, recommended net retail price, CHF incl. 8 % VAT.

www.maserati.ch

YEARS MANUFACTURER WARRANTY & ROAD ASSISTANCE

CONTENTS FASHION

145

128 FASHION ACCESSORIES Hats, gloves, handbags 132 FASHION CLASSICS The Panama Hat

BEAUTY

134 FORGOTTEN FASHION LEGEND Charles James

152

140 THE BIG TEN Ten beauty Classics 145 BEAUTY NEWS Spontaneous luxury, rose fragrances & perfume classics

136 SAVILE ROW Bespoke Tailoring 139 DID YOU KNOW …?

New York Fashion Week, Jeans & ties

146 SIX SENSES From scented tassels to wine lovers 148 FACE GYM Beauty Training 152 ALOE VERA The Miracle Elixir from the Desert

128

LIVING

154

154 HENNING LARSEN The Master of Light 160 NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF DESIGN I Bath, Vase & TV 162 DESIGN CLASSIC Thonet No. 14 164 NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF DESIGN II Daybed & Lamp 165 THE ARCHITECT DUO Herzog & de Meuron 166 PRESTIGE PRESENTS …

Europe’s Abandoned Places 174 GAETANO PESCE Designing a Difference 175 DID YOU KNOW …?

Elevator, subway & desert sand

www.gellner.com

272

CONTENTS

186 CULINARIUM 176 CHAMPAGNE Ennobled World Heritage 182 SPARKLING BEVERAGES Collectibles and Tsar 184 CULINARY CURIOSITIES Snake wine & Casu Marzu 186 MAKE IT NICE Daniel Humm 191 PURE PLEASURE Coffee

176

NEWS 97 100 105 109 131 135 151

THE GOLDEN MEAN SPLENDOUR OF THE SEAS WARMING ORNAMENT SPORTY ELEGANCE BLAZE OF COLOUR EVENING GLOW SPRING RADIANCE

16 | PRESTIGE

191 19 EDITORIAL 192 IMPRINT

SWAROVSKI

Unparalleled performance, for all of life’s roads.

Bentayga.

Introducing the extraordinary SUV. Visit Zuerich.BentleyMotors.com or call +41 (0)43 211 44 42.

Bentayga fuel consumption – EU Drive Cycle in l/100 km: Urban 19,0; Extra Urban 9,6; Combined 13,1. CO2 Emissions 296 g/km. Efficiency class F. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2016 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Bentayga.

BENTLEY ZÜRICH

FIRST MOVERS WILL ALWAYS CHANGE THE WORLD. BUT WHICH ONE? >> Discover our approach at juliusbaer.com/visionary-thinking

Julius Baer is the leading Swiss private banking group and present in some 50 locations worldwide. From Dubai, Frankfurt, Geneva, Guernsey, Hong Kong, London, Lugano, Monaco, Montevideo, Moscow, Mumbai, Nassau, Singapore to Zurich (head office).

ESTEEMED READERS

W

e welcome you to our Spring Edition in which we delve into the history of dance. Dancing is a ritual, a custom, a performing art, an occupation, a sport, a form of therapy, a form of social interaction, or simply an expression of emotion. Briefly: Dancing has many functions in society, but it can also be just for fun. Why do bees dance? Who is the most beautiful dancing couple in film? Where did the Tango originate? And why does contemporary dance today disturb the audience? This and much more can be discovered when reading our cover story on this journey through dance.

On the other hand, if you want to learn more about classic beauty or facial gymnastics, you should immerse yourself in our beauty section. Prestige has chosen for you ten beauty products that absolutely deserve to be called «classics».

Talking about classics, a real motor classic is the Morgan. This car lives the past, now. Its shape, the material and the family factory in Malvern stand for a sports car which has only a shrug left for sumptuous furnishings. And we also delve into the mysteries of the classics to be found on Savile Row, which doesn’t even measure 300 metres, although is called the «golden mile of tailoring», the home of the perfect bespoke suit. Even today, the Row is the epitome of high tailoring.

So sit back and relax, while enjoying a glass of your favourite wine and immerse yourself in your exciting and informative Prestige reading.

Francesco J. Ciringione Verleger

Yvonne Beck Chefredaktorin

Bahnhofstrasse 33, T +41 (0)44 221 27 27 www.meister-zurich.ch

& ART

CULTURE

«Dancing is the poetry of the foot.»

– John Dryden–

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DANCE

«COME

DANCE WITH US …»

Dancing is a ritual, a custom, a performing art, an occupation, a sport, a form of therapy, a form of social interaction, or simply an expression of emotion. Briefly: Dancing has many functions in society, but it can also be just for fun.

Yvonne Beck

T

he subject of «dancing» is divisive – men, so the stereotype goes, almost never want to dance, women, however, almost always do. In the world of birds, on the other hand, it is rather the males who dance to impress the females. Dance shows on TV prove how popular dancing is. Whether it’s «Stepping Out», «Got to Dance» or «Let’s Dance», dance shows record high ratings. But where does this phenomenon come from?

The luxurious way of life | 21

«No one can take from me what I have danced.»

– Spanish proverb –

The ritual dance

Happiness & Therapy

Before people could write, they danced. Most people have the urge to move themselves. They love to jump, spin or stomp. The repetition, a structure, a certain rhythm turns this into a dance. Nowadays dancing should above all be fun. Rhythmic movements to music make you happy. This was not always so, as there were times when dance had primarily a ritual purpose. Even the belly dance, as a fertility dance, is rooted in ritual. Ritual dances point to energetic patterns, concentrating the forces or even moving the dancers to ecstasy (for example in Voodoo). In tribal cultures around the world ritual dances and / or trance dances are known and are in use to this day. Ethnologists suspect that the trance dance was present during the Palaeolithic era, the Old Stone Age. Today, it can still be observed in African tribes, Caribbean healers and indigenous peoples in the Americas – provided their homeland still remains – among other groups. Dance is a form of communication. Dancing as a group is something that connects people at a very deep, non-verbal level. Indian culture is known for their precisely recorded temple dances. On every continent there originated dance forms of each individual cultures, which due to their long existence are called traditional dances or folklore.

Dancing is a physical expression of joie de vivre.

Dancing is an expression. Dancing is «singing with the body» rather than with the voice. Dancing is «making music with the body» rather than with an external instrument. For some dancing is life. Dance can help. Dance can heal. Dance may even be worship. The motivations are varied. They can have cultic, ritual, sacred or ceremonial characters, for example they may be performed to contact gods or to ward off demons. We know fertility, funerary and sacrificial dances, courting dances to find the right partner (even Helmut Kohl said, «I dance to become closer to the woman».) or playful combat training in the form of Polynesian men’s dances.

Dance, however, can also be used in therapy. Experienced dance educators and therapists know from experience how beneficial dancing can be for a child’s development. With competent educational or therapeutic guidance, improvements in both physical skills, and openness, self-confidence and experimentation can be observed among children when they dance over an extended period.

Ballet The Sun King Louis XIV, – known as a dance fanatic – founded the first ballet school in Paris (Académie de Danse Royal) with the court composer, Lully.

The most popular ballet piece in the world is Swan Lake. Tchaikovsky’s famous work was first performed in 1877. It flopped, however. Only a revised version from 1895 brought the success that it maintains to this very day.

In Italian «una ballerina» simply means a dancer. In German a «ballerina», means a solo dancer, who dances the lead in the ballet repertoire. A «Prima Ballerina» is usually the most senior, most experienced and best of ballerinas in a company. «Prima ballerina assoluta» was a title of honour, which was awarded only twice during the Tsar’s ballet.

Recently, the British «Royal Ballet» appointed Margot Fonteyn as «prima ballerina assoluta».

22 | PRESTIGE

How the dance is performed also depends on the occasion, the place and the social strata to which the dance belongs. On a village dance floor it will be rougher than at a court ball, and at a carnival it will be freer than the five-o-clock tea dance in the Kursaal. On the African plains it is dustier and wilder than on the dance floor of the ballroom.

They all have only one thing in common – dance is communication and expresses a certain mood.

Whether ballet, Spanish flamenco, youthful breakdancing or Irish Riverdance – «Dancing is the best thing that feet can do!»

© Damir Yusupov

CULTURE & ART

THE ELITE FORGE

BOLSCHOI BALLET ACADEMY

It is one of the oldest and largest dance schools in the world and is considered one of the most prestigious and famous ballet academies, which in its 200 years of movement and rich history, has produced stars and prima ballerina assolutas. On 28 March 1776, when Empress Catherine the Great granted the Russian prince Ussurow the privilege to organize balls, performances and masquerades and to create a theatre group, no one knew that it would give rise to the Olympus of ballet.

Helena Ugrenovic

F

inancial difficulties as a result of its central location in Moscow and the constant changing of hands brought the Petrovka theatre to a halt over and over again. It finally opened on 30 December 1780. In 1806 it received the status of «Imperial Theater» after the first theatre building burnt down in the autumn of 1805 which meant that the artists had to perform on private stages until a new wooden theatre was built in 1808. But such a status did not bestow the theatre a long life, as Moscow was set ablaze shortly after the arrival of Napoleon’s troops.

Eight Columns and Apollo In the years 1820–1825 a new building was constructed in the former Russian capital of St. Petersburg, which was even larger and more magnificent than the Bolshoi Theatre and was the best theatre in Europe after the Scala in Milan. At the top of the pointed roof, which is supported by eight columns, is Apollo, God of art, enthroned in his chariot. On the stage, dramas were mainly performed before the operas and ballets which featured more and more frequently the repertoires and international composers such as Rossini or Verdi who presented their works.

The luxurious way of life | 25

© Damir Yusupov

CULTURE & ART

Today’s Bolshoi Theatre, opened in 1776.

The Imperial Bolshoi Petrovsky Theatre opened its doors again in 1825 and continued the Russian ballet tradition even stronger than the Mariinsky Ballet of St. Petersburg, staging the two most important operas in Russian culture: «A Life for the Tsar» (1842) and «Ruslan and Lyudmila» (1846 by Mikhail Glinka, both a crowd-pleaser, and he became the undisputed favourite who managed to oust the formerly dominant Italian opera from Russian theatres. Even today in the Bolshoi Theatre, each season traditionally begins with a Glinka opera.

Danced and Lived Dramas Another fire broke out in 1853 and completely destroyed the theatre building together with its decorations, rare musical instruments, costumes and the national library. It was rebuilt by the RussianItalian architect Alberto Cavos, who decorated it with ornate chandeliers, red velvet and gold.

2300 spectators can fit into the six-story auditorium which has outstanding acoustics and at the time it was the largest theatre in the world.

The real breakthrough for the Bolshoi Theatre occurred in the 1870s with Russian opera after Russian opera being staged. Ballet then boasted elite dancers who were to go down in history in the heyday of the early 20th century.

Centuries to be Remembered Maya Plisetskaya and Ekaterina Maximova, wehre honoured with the highest awards of all, prima ballerina assoluta, Vladimir Vasiliev, Vladimir Malakhov, Natalia Osipova and Nikolay Tsiskaraidze are among the world-famous elite dancers who performed at the ballet Olympus. Ethereal beings who glide with an airy graceful ease over the ground and melt into the magical atmosphere. People tend to forget the hours of hard work, iron discipline, bleeding feet and the eternal competition for the lead role.

In 2011 the Bolshoi Theatre reopened after six years of renovation. Now, one of the world’s best stages shines with a new splendour.

➥ The Bolshoi Theatre has more than 1800 seats. ➥ There are currently around 900 actors, dancers, singers and musicians working here. The stars are usually on tour throughout the world, and are therefore rarely encountered in Moscow. ➥ The image of the Bolshoi Theatre was minted on a silver coin and printed on the 100-ruble note. ➥ On 17th January 2013 the director Sergei Filin was attacked with sulfuric acid and lost his eyesight.

26 | PRESTIGE

THE DREAM DANCE PARTNERSHIP GINGER & FRED Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire were the perfect symbiosis. Like strawberries and cream. They were the best couple on the Hollywood screen. They sprinkled their magic across ten films – and are today icons of dance film. They met for the first time in 1933 for the film «Flying Down to Rio».

Rogers had been cast at the last moment. The studio bosses quickly discovered that with these two they had hit the mother lode. Astaire was a born dancer and Rogers coaxed the best out of him.

Kathrin Hepburn once said: «He gives her class, she gives him sex appeal». Both were also very successful as solo artists. Astaire was an icon of entertainment. Ginger Rogers was a gifted actress.

For the role of «Kitty Foyle» she even won an Oscar in 1941. At that time, she was Hollywood’s highest paid star. However, the audience loved them best when they were together, and was sure that they must be a couple offscreen too. They appeared onscreen together in a total of ten films, of which «Top Hat» was the best. As in most of the films, the plot is rather inconsequential and unimportant: Fred wins Ginger over by dancing with her. Two of the best dance scenes in film history can be found in this film: «Cheek to cheek» – because of her dress trimmed with feathers, Ginger Rogers earned the nickname «Feathers» – and «Isn’t this a lovely day (to be caught in the rain)?» – Fred and Ginger dancing during a thunderstorm. The pair was so successful as a dance duo that their ten musical films contributed to the survival of the small, financially weak RKO Studios in the 1930s. With each new film, Rogers and Astaire developed the playful, artistic, partly breakneck dance scenes together with a choreographer at a first meeting. And today they are regarded as one of the most successful couples, who slipped apparently effortlessly across the stage.

«Do it big, do it right and do it with style.»

– Fred Astaire –

5 QUOTES «Either the camera will dance, or I will.»

– Fred Astaire –

«Dance is a telegram to the earth with the request for a waiver of gravity.»

– Fred Astaire –

«My mother told me that I was dancing before I was born. She could feel my toes tapping wildly inside her for months.» – Ginger Rogers – «I worked until my feet were bleeding.»

– Ginger Rogers –

The luxurious way of life | 27

CULTURE & ART

CONTEMPORARY DANCE

IDEAS OF MOVEMENT In the 1960s western culture experienced various influences.

Young people were inspired by new music from England. In France, Michel Foucault and Jaques Derrida established a new way of thinking, Andy Warhol was exhibiting his pop art and in Dusseldorf Joseph Beuys explained art to a dead hare.

David Renner

A

nd just like thinkers, painters and musicians, more and more dancers were rejecting traditional forms of their art and were finding newer, more suitable means of expression. When Yvonne Rainer wrote her ÂŤNo-ManifestoÂť in 1965, it showed how radically she rejected the old style of dance. It expressed a fundamental departure from the old forms and the classical understanding of dance, which the Judson Church Theatre Group in New York had already tried for years with Trisha Brown, Steve Praxton, Douglas Dunn and David Gordon.

Among other things, Rainer discarded elegance and virtuosity, symbolism and shine, hero and antihero and with them the story, the beautiful appearance, solid forms and camps, and finally the audience.

Be Part of the Dance Even today contemporary dance can unsettle the viewer. Rather than being entertained or being taught something, you are challenged and left alone to your own interpretation. It is a new role that the dance expects of you. You are no longer an observer of the performance but rather a resonating body. In this self-understanding, contemporary dance links the ideas and experiments of the 60s, which democratised art as happenings and performances, conceptual art and Fluxus.

The viewer is a fundamental part of the performance. Instead of witnessing a plot, virtuous in execution, you can experience a narrative backbone, banal everyday scenes that alienate more and more into an ongoing repetition, a panopticon of moods or even short, narrative sequences.

Sasha Waltz: Matsukaze.

28 | PRESTIGE

© Bernd Uhlig

CULTURE & ART

© Phillipe Weissbrodt

«Dance is a universal language; an ambassador of a peaceful world, for equality, tolerance and compassion.»

– Sasha Waltz –

Compagnie Phillipe Saire: Utopia mia.

© Sebastian Bolesch

CULTURE & ART

Sasha Waltz: Orfeo.

The viewer is forced to engage with their experiences and opinions. They have to fill in the plot themselves, to question their daily experiences, to sympathise or simply associate with them. Contemporary dance takes place through its effect on viewers.

From Portrayal to Discourse Abandoning the narrative is the expression of changing interests. It’s no longer about performing a story, but rather to raise questions, to question, without trying to provide answers. As Helmut Ploebst said: «We organize no movement in time and space on stage. It is more a game, a pingpong relationship between stage and auditorium.

We change things, look at the audience, and then question or criticize what they perceive. This is the main factor in our choreographic performances.»

With the new idea of the audience, the dance floor becomes a place for discourse and not of its performance. As a spectator, you have to contribute to the discourse.

Changing Steps For dancers and choreographers this new interest results in an uninterrupted quest for form and expression, in which they engage with their body and biography. With the deliberate avoidance of coding and solid forms each piece leads to a new exploration of one’s own body and its movements.

The dance steps and choreography develop over a long process of improvisation, concept and theme.

In this way, every staging becomes its own brand of contemporary dance, with its own forms and rules. The very essence of contemporary dance is its continual change.

Moving Bodies A new project is an ongoing battle against the degradation of found forms.

Through improvisation, contact improvisation and deconstruction of movement, to name just a few methods, one tries to find a new language for this topic. By forgoing solid forms, code and a unified narrative, a natural body has been an issue since the 1990s. Given these problems, the contemporary dance theories turn to the body, which is capable of making the voiceless lump of flesh and blood speak. With the ideas and exercises of Moshé Feldenkrais, F. M. Alexander and Joseph Pilates, the dancers not only protect their bodies from the crusting? of their movements and their musculoskeletal systems but are also looking to develop a kind of natural language of movement. Nowadays, the body and its individual expression have even more importance than in the early days of contemporary dance. For example, for Meg Stuart a central question is the reintegration of movement in current social contexts. Therefore, it is no surprise that the choreography of contemporary dance emancipates from dance itself.

For the audience a performance is always an adventure, which they themselves must embark on. A piece is therefore good when it moves without jumping sequences and without the need for virtuosity.

Star Dancers and Choreographers There are many good and dedicated dancers, choreographers and dance companies. Prominent and successful ones include Jérôme Bel, Boris Charmatz, the Compagnie Phillipe Saire, Meg Stuart and Sascha Walz. They do guest appearances and might be performing near you soon.

The luxurious way of life | 31

«Tango Argentino is a sad thought that can be danced.»

– Enrique Santos Discépolo –

32 | PRESTIGE

CULTURE & ART

THE TANGO FROM SOUTH AMERICA

MELANCHOLY

AND

PASSION

Tango is music and dance, life and passion, the game between man and woman, tango is the soul of southern America.

T

he Tango is a child of two mothers born in the sister cities of Buenos Aires and Montevideo. In the bellies of the ports, whose water the people of Buenos Aires still refer to as a river and in Montevideo a sea.

The Sound of the Castaways In the harbour’s taverns, on the southern edge of the new continent, which promised a new beginning and opportunity, are those who remained behind. Here, the ships loaded the wealth of the former colonies, wheat and beef, which was torn from the country and its people. The ships steered a few goods from the old world together with its people, who flocked to the cities and the expanses of Pampas looking for a new start.

In the taverns sit those, whose new beginning is now over. In a haze of liquor and beer they sway to the sounds of their fathers like waves breaking on the shore. Spain’s Flamenco, the song of the Pampas and the Habenera, the rhythms of the former slaves who had nothing left to lose but are still lost themselves. The sounds mingle like the haze in the two-four beat of the tango. Just like the disillusionment, the new sound from the ports works its way into the suburbs, the magnificent buildings of past rulers, the streets, the tenements, into its taverns and brothels and roars like a fire.

David Renner

The First Tango Pandemic Gangs of teenagers dance to the tango in the suburbs like the gauchos who fight with their knives. The prostitutes in brothels dance between food and sexual intercourse with the rich sons of high society. Since women are scarce, men dance together to the sound of guitar and flute to learn the new steps. But it was only in 1870 when the bandoneon arrived at the Río de la Plata that the Tango found its voice – a pair of bellows gave the end of the world a character. The tango is slow, melancholic and deep and finds its rhythm in four eighth measures. On one of the boats which transported goods to Europe, the new dance arrived at Marseille and conquered Paris like syphilis.

It was as if the fashion capital had been waiting for a new dance and – unlike in South America – it was the high society who surrendered themselves to the tango. In 1912 in the salons around the Place de l’Étoile, in the cafes, theatres and cabarets, Paris swayed to the four eight beat, discussed dance steps and forms, desperately sought teachers and infected London, New York and Berlin. It covered 390 dance steps which became a fanciful yet sensual and watered down standard dance.

The tango even influenced the fashion. People wore orange, the corset was ditched to allow for better mobility and people put vertical feathers in their hats. «Argentina» was shocked: the

The luxurious way of life | 33

CULTURE & ART

dance, music and language of the pimps, prostitutes and criminals – in other words, the poor – became a symbol of their homeland and their new role model, since Paris determined fashion.

The Golden Age And this is how Argentina and Uruguay involuntarily inherited their national treasure. The tango migrated to the cafes and clubs in the city centre as a result of changing social structures and Paris’ influence.

People took the national bastard and turned it into their own authentic child. By 1923 the Prince of Wales had already been received at the Casa Rosa to the sounds of the tango and in the tango salons the tango orchestra played at the dances.

Fairly good bandoneon players soon earned more than a high-level employee and the Avenida Corrientes buzzed like a beehive. This was the golden age of tango. There were milongas every day in every neighbourhood. Each neighbourhood had its own club, own dialect and own way of dancing.

Between 1935 and the military coup in 1955, more or less the whole of Buenos Aires was dancing.

They continuously refined the dance, the music and the sons. Even when it had lost its wicked reputation, it remained a sensual and impulsive dance, but not as rough as in the early days. The man would lead the way on the dance floor. His steps would give the woman some room for free play, which required attention and devotion. It was a game of desire. But only a game. The hips do not touch. The most famous dancer was El Chafaz, José Ovidio Bianquet who danced from the most vicious establishments all the way to the highest Argentine society and on to Europe. Apart from his choreographies he was famous for his elegant steps and figures, which took him to the Metropolitan Opera. With the advent of Rock n Roll and the military coup in 1955 which overthrew protection measures for indigenous music, the golden age of tango abruptly came to an end.

34 | PRESTIGE

The Renaissance of Passion As Argentina was freed from the burden of the dictatorship, people looked around and started to dance. It was the young people who discovered the tango for themselves and revived the dance – albeit incorrectly. New moves were shown to others and Buenos Aires slowly began to sway to the beat again. The political situation became stable and the old dancers from the golden age ventured out again and started teaching their dance. Nelly and Miguel Balmaceda were the most influential teachers in the ’80s and went on to resurrect the tango. They danced complicated sequences of steps and revived the techniques of the ’40s and ’50s. Many stage dancers learned from Antonio Todaro, which sparked the tango craze in the ’90s with shows such as «Tango por dos» and «Tangopassión». This was followed by «Estilo Milonguero», a tango without complicated shapes, a sensual dance, which was danced in private. With its newly discovered cultural asset, the tango, Buenos Aires has become a pilgrimage site for Tangueros. And today, in many of the cafés, the stars of yesterday still perform.

CULTURE & ART

The passionate game comes alive in the show: Mariano Balois Pardo & Silvana Allevi.

«Tango is a vertical expression of a horizontal desire»

– George Bernhard Shaw –

The bandoneon is the soul of the tango: Tango Passion on 142 keys.

The luxurious way of life | 35

THE GOD OF DANCE RUDOLF NUREJEW Rudolph Nureyew joined the St. Petersburg Kirov Ballet at a young age, was hosted? in the West and ended up in Paris in 1961. He reached the peak of his career when he danced with the London prima ballerina Margot Fonteyn. The two of them were regarded as the classical dancing couple par excellence. However, it is not just his stage presence that Nureyev is admired for. His beauty and erotic aura attracted both men and women alike. He is said to have had numerous affairs, mostly of a homosexual nature. During a tour of Denmark, he met the ballet dancer Erik Bruhn, ten years his senior, who became his long-term partner.

It was only in 1987, after 26 years, that he briefly returned to his hometown, Moscow.

Despite being diagnosed with AIDS in the mideighties, he continued to dance. During the last decade of his life, however, his performances became increasingly weaker. Even his theatre appearances became less and less noteworthy. Once the God of dance, he had become a tragically sad figure. He retired from dancing and turned to choreography almost too late. Towards the end, Nureyev, now chief choreographer of the Paris Opera, was no longer able to stand. In his prime he was able to fit up to an incredible 250 performances each year as a result of his tremendous will power. For his last production, «La Bayadère» at the Paris Opera, he received a standing ovation once more. He died shortly afterwards, being just 55 years old. His name, however, has become synonymous with dance in the 20th century. He was the first pop star of ballet and his biography contains stuff from which legends are made.

Colum McCann created for the Russian virtuoso a literary monument in his novel «The Dancer». But Nureyev was also someone who considered himself different from everyone else. His life story is like that of many great personalities, magnificent yet tragic.

3 QUOTES «Obsession is the engine – doggedness is the brake.»

– Rudolf Nurejew –

«My ancestral Tatar blood flows ever faster, it is always on the verge of boiling.»

– Rudolf Nurejew –

«As long as you can stand, you can dance.» – Rudolf Nurejew –

36 | PRESTIGE

The expression of new thinking.

When it comes to innovation, we Swedes have a very unique way of thinking. It must never be an end in itself, but must first and foremost serve people – with the goal of making every journey as comfortable and safe as possible. In 2016, with the new Volvo V90, we will be putting a premium estate car on the road that expresses this way of thinking more than any other car in its class.

PILOT ASSIST WITH STEERING ASSIST T8 TWIN ENGINE MOTOR POWER PULSE SENSUS CONNECT VOLVOCARS.CH

INNOVATION MADE BY SWEDEN.

CULTURE & ART

PRESENTS

IMAGERY

YOU CAN DANCE TO

by Andreas Gemperle

S

wiss photographer Andreas Gemperle developed his hobby into a profession. He can best be described as an «all-round photographer focusing on people»: Advertising, CD covers, portraits, stills and interiors, combined with perfect digital image processing are maintained by Andreas Gemperle and his studio photoworkers.ch with passion and success. His customers are companies and agencies on the one hand, and on the other hand, artists (musicians and dancers) and private individuals. In his open-plan studio, the photographer can work creatively under ideal conditions. However, he also loves to implement his ideas on location. Versatility, spontaneity and a sense of adventure in addition to high aesthetic and technical quality, these are his trademarks. The management of many national and international conferences and workshops brought Andreas Gemperle the «Oscar» of the German Förderkreis Portrait as the best speaker from 1998 to 2008. Besides commercial photography he is dedicated to his own free photographic work, such as the long-term projects «Fashionhomestory» (2007–2013), «The Reconquest of …» (2008–2012), or video projects with various artists.

38 | PRESTIGE

PAWEL

IZABELA &

«Dancing is the best opportunity to step on one another’s toes.»

– Walter Ludin –

The luxurious way of life | 39

CULTURE & ART

ARAM HASLER

«Dance is devotion to the passion of the music» – Helga Schäferling –

40 | PRESTIGE

SPITERI

VANESSA

CULTURE & ART

«One can not see any volcano without dancing on it, one can not dance without creating a volcano among themselves.» – Manfred Hinrich –

The luxurious way of life | 41

CULTURE & ART

MELANIE ALEXANDER

42 | PRESTIGE

CULTURE & ART

«Wherever there is dancing, from the dust rises the source of life.»

– Dschalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi –

Curriculum Vitae 1998 Establishment of the sole proprietorship photoworkers.ch 1998 – 2000 freelance and part-time work as an assistant to an advertising photographer in Zurich 2001 Opening of his own studio in the Winterthur industrial estate.

2010 Group exhibition «Cocaine chatroom», Mondejar Gallery, Zurich 2013 Exhibition «The Reconquest of …» at the Photo Münsingen 2014 Book launch «World Wide Girls Fashion Home Stories» in Zurich In his studio photoworkers.ch, he now works with two other photographers and 1– 2 interns. www.andreasgemperle.com www.photoworkers.ch Project Website: www.fashionhomestory.com

The luxurious way of life | 43

ÂŤI lived as if there were no tomorrow.Âť

CULTURE & ART

CAREER TOPPERS As an action hero he constantly hacks, shoots and kicks the bad guys. And the audience loves Kiefer Sutherland in this role. But how does the future look for the terrorist hunter from the hit series «24»?

P

eople who he does not like, he gets. But this is only what he’s like in the movies. Or on TV. Because in private, he is an absolute treasure.

He makes time for everyone – whether they are journalists or fans. Regardless of whether it’s raining cats and dogs, or whether a nervous PR woman wants him hurriedly dragged away to his next appointment. Nothing ruffles him.

Dominique Zahnd

patiently until he threw them a pose. «In the 30 years of my career, I have never seen such a perfectly organised photo opportunity. Thanks guys!»

Sutherland has seen it all. Including all the ups and downs that come with a life in the limelight. He had an impressive start in the movie business.

Visit to Switzerland

© Fox

Alongside Tom Cruise and Will Smith, he is definitely one of the friendliest and most gracious celebrities in Hollywood. To give you an idea: During his recent visit to Switzerland, he marvelled at the mob of photographers who were waiting for him as he was taken into a press conference room.

No one pushed, nobody screamed, they all waited

© Fox

Likes to play the TV hero: Hollywood star Kiefer Sutherland.

© Fox © Fox

«24» Returns Fox has recently confirmed that the show will return. The authors are currently working on the screenplays for another series of «24».

«I’m no longer around to see it», says Kiefer Sutherland.

«Jack has seen so many crazy things. But eventually it becomes implausible. I wish the producers only the best.»

CULTURE & ART

«I’m a workaholic and stand by it.»

The mystery series «Touch» (2012, only 2 seasons) could not emulate the success of «24».

First, he played the leader of a teenage gang in the coming-of-age milestone «Stand by Me» (1986). A year later, he played the boss of a sexy vampire pack in «The Lost Boys». Both films are now considered cult classics. After his successful debut it seemed as if no one could get enough of the dangerous blond-haired star. Each one of his films became a hit. Regardless of whether he starred in a revamped Western («Young Guns») or a gloomy horror thriller («Flatliners»).

Fame did not treat him well He particularly suited the role of movie villain. Kiefer’s performances improved and he went on to star in more flicks: from the incredibly captivating courtroom drama «A Few Good Men» (1992) to the abduction thriller «The Vanishing» (1993) and the science fiction adventure «Dark City» (1998). You would think his meteoric rise made him the happiest man in the world, but that was not the case. He succumbed to the many temptations that came with his glory. «I was 20 years old and I totally lost it», he admits. «I thought I was invincible and lived like there was no tomorrow. It was an unhealthy time.»

In addition, the paparazzi stalked him everywhere. Especially when he dated Julia Roberts between 1989 and 1991. The two even got engaged. But the wedding never happened. Also, in the mid-nineties he didn’t star in any major roles, but taking time out was not an option for Kiefer Sutherland. He liked working too much. «I’m a workaholic and stand by it», he says. «However,

I didn’t always get the jobs I wanted. It was hard sometimes.» Everyone knew he had talent. Superficial critics would put it down to his genes – after all, he is the son of Hollywood giant Donald Sutherland. But Kiefer didn’t learn much from him. His father left when he was just three years old.

He has since made peace with his father. The resentment vanished a long time ago. This proved beneficial for Kiefer’s most recent film – the Western «Forsaken». For the first time, father and son can be seen together. «I was quite nervous beforehand», admits Kiefer. «But I later found out that it was exactly the same for my father.» «Forsaken» revolves around a long-estranged father-son duo who try to become closer in the heat of battle.

According to the crew there were often clashes both on and off camera. Kiefer confirms this: «Yes, we quarrelled. But only about of certain scenes and how to improve them.» What is his verdict after shooting? «Honestly, it was strange. Because I spent nine weeks with one of my parents. This

The luxurious way of life | 47

CULTURE & ART

isn’t normal for adults.» Kiefer Sutherland is now himself a father. His daughter Sarah is also an actress. She belongs to the ensemble of the acclaimed US series «Veep». He offered her a part in «Forsaken», but she refused. «I think that’s pretty cool. She wants to go at it alone.» She loves to wind up her father – for example, over how computer illiterate he is. «She’s always laughing at me», says Sutherland. «Mainly because I sometimes struggle with all of these gadgets in my films. Even after someone has shown me how to use them.»

TV role as a career saver In 2001 Kiefer’s career rocketed once again. He was offered the lead role in a new TV series. Its name? 24! He did not hesitate, because it had long been known that the best scriptwriters were now working for television. Hit sensations such as «Breaking Bad», «Friends», «The Office», «Game of Thrones» and «Homeland» highlight this.

brutality did not frighten viewers. Quite the contrary: Jack Bauer has been idolised as a hero. The cuts, the harshness and the overall style of the show has significantly changed action cinema. Whether Bond or Bourne: special agents have now become much harder. This has all been a direct result of Kiefer Sutherland and his hit series.

He played the dream role in 8 seasons and 192 episodes. It offered him the opportunity to cover the full spectrum of emotions. This was not an easy run for Jack Bauer. He also had to constantly cope with heavy blows of fate. His loved ones were constantly targets, as well as his work colleagues. Sometimes it seemed as if he would be travelling from one funeral to the next. His role had to endure incredible amounts of suffering - physically too. Because his enemies wanted to see him bleed. But he got up again and again in order to protect his country and its president. In our meeting at the «Zurich Film Festival», Kiefer Sutherland called «24» a gift for his career. «Any actor would be pleased to star in in such a hit. Now I can only hope that I get a similar offer again.»

The action series «24» follows the life of 48-yearold agent Jack Bauer. And his hunt for terrorists is not for the squeamish. If a terrorist doesn’t come clean, he is tortured. And the camera doesn’t turn away. But this directness and this unvarnished

© Inkwhale Films

«My daughter wants to go at it alone.»

In the Western «Forsaken» Kiefer and Donald Sutherland were in front of the camera together for the first time.

48 | PRESTIGE

QUEEN OF CRIME AGATHA CHRISTIE

Agatha Christie, 1890–1976A is referred to as the «Queen of Crime» only because of her huge commercial success: The estimated total circulation of her work amounts to over two billion copies. In addition to plays and «ordinary novels» that appear under the pseudonym Mary Westmacott, in the course of half a century Christie published about eighty detective stories and thirty volumes of short stories. In the 50s she began to adapt her crime stories for the theatre. Her best-known crime drama «The Mousetrap» is today, after more than 40 years, still performed in St. Martin’s Theatre in London’s West End. In 1971 Agatha Christie was awarded one of the highest honours of England – the title «Dame Commander of the British Empire».

5 QUOTES «The truth is a double-edged sword.»

«Good advice is almost never observed, but that’s no reason not to give it.»

Here the most famous creations are the Belgian detective Hercule Poirot with his friend Hastings, and spinster Miss Marple and her boyfriend Mr. Stringer. There are other recurring characters like Tommy and Tuppence or Inspector Battle, Sir Henry Clithering or the crime writer Mrs. Ariadne Oliver. In addition to her career as a writer, Agatha Christie supported her second husband, the archaeologist Max Mallowan, in his excavations in northern Iraq and Syria, particularly in the restoration of prehistoric ceramics and in the photographic documentation of the finds. She also contributed significantly to the financing of these expeditions. In March 2011, the British Museum spent millions to buy a collection of arts and craft works in ivory, which were recovered during an archaeological excavation in ancient Nimrud, in modern-day Iraq,

by Christie’s husband. Christie cleaned the exhibits by hand using her face cream and according to experts, thus made a significant contribution to their rescue.

On 12th January 1976 Agatha Christie died at Winterbrook House. In the next two years, two of her books were published: The last case of Hercule Poirot, «Curtain», in which he dies, and the last case of Miss Marple, «Sleeping Murder», which appeared in the year she died. Both books had laid in her desk for decades.

«The most important recipe for a crime novel: The detective may never know more than the reader.»

«The strong, introverted man rarely commits crimes.»

«One usually has more friends than one suspects.»

The luxurious way of life | 49

CULTURE & ART

Wine for Argentina

Argentinean wine from Mendoza is honoured in the provinces from December to February in the «Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimi» and converges in the capital for a grand finale. After the wine is blessed by the Archbishop on 28th February, street parades take place throughout Mendoza on 4th March where the wine is celebrated. The next day, the «Via Blanca de las Reinas» takes place with its wine queens and trains of Gauchos with their horses. The celebration ends on Sunday at the Greek theatre, where the region’s history is colourfully retold. www.mendozawinetoursandtravel.com

SPRING DIARY Valencia in Light and

Gunpowder Smoke

From the 15th to the 19th March Valencia finds itself in a state of emergency, where the boundaries between day and night are blurred. The districts are competing with each other over who has the best Fallas, paper-mâché figures, the most beautiful fireworks, the most beautiful woman, the best paella etc. Each day there are symphonies of canons that are celebrated like pop concerts. In addition, there are countless fireworks – especially during the nights of the 16th and 17th of March. Each day is a huge celebration.

At the end of the festival, the house-sized fallas are set on fire and the nightmare is over. www.fallasfromvalencia.com

Customs of the

© CMike Pennington

Rau – The

50 | PRESTIGE

North

Once up on a time, the Vikings spread fear and terror.

Nowadays, they gather in Lerwick on the 26th January for Yule, the Scottish Christmas. Even during the day, the savage hordes move through the streets in their impressive costumes and take over the city during «Up Helly Aa», with the exception of a tea break. But the Nordmen really show their true colours in the evenings. A huge torchlight is placed on a galley which is then set on fire. Afterwards, songs are sung and celebrations are held in the city. www.uphellyaa.org

CULTURE & ART

Africa’s Dancing Masks

The mask is the epitome of tradition and transformation.

In Dédougou (Burkina Faso) from 27th February to 5th March crocodiles, monkeys and colourful birds all come together to dance. The magical transformation can be seen and felt at the FESTIMA, every other year, when masked dancers and musicians from West Africa come together to share their dances, masks and rhythms. As well as telling «griots» (stories), there is also a large market. www.festima.org

Howdy © Charlie Ekburg /Sweetlight Photography

Poet!

Each year in Elko, Nevada, cowboys and enthusiasts get together for the «National Cowboy Poetry Gathering».

Here people celebrate not only the Wild West and its people, but also its music, dances and stories. Between the 25th and 30th January people come from all reaches to meet and listen to thousands of poems, learn the Two-Step dance, watch movies and enjoy themselves. www.westernfolklife.org

Desert

The is Alive …

In Rajasthan, 40 km from Jaisalmer, the region displays its culture to tourists between the 20th and 22nd February. Set among the Sam Sand Dunes is a large festival which lasts for the three days. In addition to traditional music, camel racing and turban-binderies there are camel dances, camel polo and other camel-related activities. A serious, yet entertaining event, is the moustache competition, in which visitors get to decide who wins. www.jaisalmer.org.uk/desert-festival.html

The luxurious way of life | 51

CULTURE & ART

MOUNT RUSHMORE NATIONAL MEMORIAL It is hard to imagine attempting to reflect the spirit of an entire nation in a single sculpture, but that was the task of Gutzon Borglum (1867–1941), when he began his work on the Mount Rushmore National Memorial, America's Shrine of Democracy, in the year 1927.

Yvonne Beck

«I am a storyteller in stone.»

– Korcazak Ziolkowski –

52 | PRESTIGE

CULTURE & ART

T

oday Borglum’s massive granite sculpture sits majestically above the forests of the Black Hills – forever a symbol of rich American history, rugged determination and lasting achievement. The heads of four presidents carved in stone, proudly protrude over the landscape. They are like silent stone watchmen guarding over the land. George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. The monument pays tribute to 150 years of American history – birth, growth, preservation and development of the United States.

and bad weather extended the duration of the project from four to fourteen years. And because the mountain was sometimes reluctant to cooperate, Borglum had to perform time-consuming changes.

Despite all his efforts, the sculptor did not live to see the completion of his dream. On the 6th March 1941 he died during surgery. His son Lincoln continued the project. But the project was finally brought to a halt when the USA entered the Second World War. Funding simply stopped. Hence, what we can see today is how Gutzon Borglum’s project was left.

The Stone Faces of the Presidents

The Gigantic Scale of the Original Idea

Gutzon Borglum was a second-generation American. From an early age he was filled with love for the USA. His father, a Mormon Missionary from Denmark, had to wait ten years for his departure to America. Gutzon Borglum was extraordinary: he loved everything about America and was one of the most famous sculptors of his time. He also had an enormous desire for recognition. He wanted to secure a place in history and therefore wanted to create something extraordinary and unique. In 1923 he came up with the plans for his most ambitious project so far, a 30 metre relief carved into the rock of Stone Mountain in Georgia.

It was supposed to show three figures of the Confederate States of America. He even joined the Ku Klux Klan to get financial support. But after finishing the portrait of General Robert E. Lee, Borglum quarrelled with the organizers. He destroyed his entire work and angrily left the KKK and the project. Fortunately, the historian Dorian Robinson from South Dakota became aware of Borghum. He had a vision of a huge stone sculpture on a mountain slope in the Black Hills. In 1924 they spent several weeks searching for a suitable mountain for the project. When Robinson and Borglum saw Mount Rushmore, they knew that was their mountain.

The sculptor actually had bigger plans for the project. Much bigger. The upper bodies of each president were left unfinished. There is also a 25-meter tunnel behind the presidents’ heads, which was going to serve as the entrance to Borglum’s «Hall of Memories» – a kind of museum which would recount the first 150 years of American history.

The preparation, planning and financing took three years. On the 4th October 1927 the 60-year-old sculptor finally got to work. He had 400 helpers on the project. Gradually, they transformed the granite hillside into a work of art. Financing difficulties

But despite the sculptor’s plans not being fully realised, each visitor to Mount Rushmore is overwhelmed by the scale of the sculpture. The heads of the presidents, which are approximately 20 metres high, can be viewed from several viewing platforms around the monument. If you want to get a little closer, you are better off taking the «President Trail» – a hiking trail that takes visitors to the foot of the mountain.

TIPS The «Avenue of Flags» with its 56 flags of the American states and territories leads to the largest viewing platform.

During the summer months you can visit Borglum’s studio, where the models used by the artist are on display.

Each night in the summer, the presidents are illuminated during a ceremony in the amphitheatre.

The luxurious way of life | 53

HORSE MEMORIAL

CRAZY

IN HONOUR OF THE NATIVE AMERICAN

«My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes, too.» This was written by Lakota Chief «Standing Bear» when he requested that the sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski (1908 –1982) carve the «Crazy Horse» memorial.

Yvonne Beck

CULTURE & ART

M

ount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial, which is still in progress, are only 27 kilometres away from each other and are two of the world’s modern wonders. Each one represents a stone illustration of different aspects of American history.

The World’s Largest Mountain Sculpture The face of Crazy Horse, which was completed in 1998, is now the fifth granite face in the Black Hills. When completed, the monument will stand 172 metres tall and 195 metres long. The four presidents at Mount Rushmore combined are about as big as Crazy Horse’s head. Work is currently taking place on the horse’s head, which is situated at the centre of the sculpture at a height of 64 metres (22 storeys). The outstretched arm will be as long as a football pitch. 4000 people could fit into it. Crazy Horse is planned to be the largest sculpture in the world.

Drilling and blasting on the colossal mountain began in 1948. 748 wooden steps were used to reach the top of the mountain. On some days, Ziolkowski had to travel up and down the stairs ten times to fire up the compressor at the foot of the mountain. He began work alone and with $174 starting capital.

He worked on the project for 36 years until he died at the age of 78.

Some Indians are critical of the project. They complain that the Black Hills are being desecrated and point out that Crazy Horse never allowed himself to be photographed because he never wanted to be depicted. Crazy Horse never sat for artists, and whenever someone asked to photograph him, he would say: «My friend, why should you wish to shorten my life by taking from me my shadow?»

But the majority of people admire the tireless efforts of the Ziolkowski family. Nobody knows when the monument will be finished. Too many factors play a role such as weather and financing. However, it is estimated that it will not be completed for another 100 years. But as Ziolkowski already said: «It does not matter when exactly the monument is completed. The main thing is that we carry on working on it and it will come together piece by piece». One thing is certain: The Crazy Horse Memorial is already a proud symbol for all Native Americans in the land of the Black Hills. And one day, the dream of «Crazy Horse» will come true.

Continuing a Dream Since work began, approximately 10 million tonnes of granite have been blasted out of the rock face. Despite this, only the face is completed.

Ziolkowski died in 1982, and his work was supported by his wife Ruth (who died in May 2014) and continued by seven of his ten children. Each family member has their own task. Using the sculptor’s models, they continue to build his vision. They share Ziolkowski’s philosophy that Crazy Horse should not be a government project, but should rather be a non-profit, humanitarian work, which is financed mainly by entry fees.

«My land is where my dead lie buried.»

– Crazy Horse –

TIPS You can visit the sculptor’s home and workshop, which is filled with art and antiques.

The mountain is illuminated every evening for half an hour after dark.

The luxurious way of life | 55

BLUM

THE

Is there anyone who doesn’t know the all-American myth of the Lonesome Cowboy, who eventually became a universal symbol of freedom, adventure and independence due to Western heroes such as Clint Eastwood?

Lone K. Halvorsen Dieter Blum

56 | PRESTIGE

DIETER

COWBOY PHOTOGRAPHER

Texas oil.

CULTURE & ART

A

well-known cigarette concern had this subject in mind, when in 1992 it commissioned Dieter Blum with an advertising campaign that was to write the history of photography. In a project lasting almost twelve years, Blum travelled repeatedly to Texas, New Mexico and Utah – home of the «American Cowboys». In his search for authenticity he limited himself to the essentials: a man and his horse. Whether it’s the lasso-swinging cowboy on an impetuous mustang galloping away across the Texan Prairie, or the lone rider, behind which the glowing red sun slowly sinks below the horizon, Dieter Blum’s «Cowboys» have long since become icons.

A Life as a Photographer Dieter Blum was born almost 80 years ago in Esslingen, Germany. At the age of eight, he had already discovered his love of photography. Since taking his first shots of his sister he never let go of his camera, because he knew: «I shall become a photographer». As early as 1982 he was awarded the renowned «World Press Award» for his series on Herbert von Karajan and the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, published in «Stern». Later he became known to the general public due to his Marlboro campaign, although his pictures of the ballet star Vladimir Malakhov, and the political friends Gerhard Schröder

and Vladimir Putin, have also travelled the world.

The coarse grain and the exaggerated colours which give an almost cinematic drama to his photographs, are unmistakable hallmarks of the artist.

What he seeks in his work, is the authentic, the genuine.

In addition to his photographs and the publication of over 70 coffee-table books worldwide, his extensive «œuvre» is appreciated worldwide in numerous national and international solo exhibitions.

A few months ago, he was awarded the «Vermeil Medal» from the French Academy of Science, Arts and Literature in Paris for his life’s work. This is the first time in the 100-year history of the Academy that this accolade has been awarded to a photographer. PRESTIGE spoke to Blum about his fascination with cowboys and horses as well as the world-famous Marlboro advertising campaigns.

The luxurious way of life | 57

Wild Water.

CULTURE & ART

58 | PRESTIGE

CULTURE & ART

PRESTIGE: A museum director once said about you: «A world-renowned photographer who the world has never heard of!» Is this statement true or have you experienced the fame of a world-renowned photographer?

DIETER BLUM: Personal fame is not relevant to me. My pictures are important, and ultimately I am also wellknown since my photos have been made into posters in 150 countries. Even though only very few people know the photographer behind these pictures.

How did it happen that, a man from Esslingen, of all things, should photograph the campaign for Marlboro cigarettes?

In the summer of 1992 I got a call from Klaus Erich Küster.

At that time he was the creative director at Leo Burnett (advertising agency for Marlboro). Up until then, six American photographers had photographed for the Marlboro campaign. He wanted to hire me for the campaign, on the grounds: «Because you see the world differently!» We arranged a test shoot in Texas and he immediately used ten pictures of mine for a concept change of the advertising campaign. However, Philip Morris was shocked and it took almost half a year, until they said: «Yes, we think you’re good».

Was it your first experience with cowboys and horses?

I had previously done a lot of nature photography, but it was my first experience with cowboys and horses.

Are you fascinated by the old cowboy movies?

Definitely! When a cowboy film comes on; count me in!

You have been photographing dancers for decades, but a horse is considerably faster in its movements. How do you manage to capture the decisive, perfect moment in a movement?

At the shoot for «Marlboro Man» everything I needed was made available: lighting technology, wind, and rain machines, 20 cowboys with their horses, 50 cows, helicopter … For example, with the helicopter we had to fly backwards to capture the cowboys in perfect perspective.

Despite the enormous challenge: the conditions were simply ideal for taking the perfect pictures.

Did you ever think at the time that the pictures would gain such international renown?

For me they were quite simply «normal pictures» and nothing extraordinary. In this respect I never thought of international fame.

When one looks at the pictures, one would suspect you had been lying in the bushes and photographed the cowboys unobserved?

The «head-cowboy» said back then, «We love you, because you get your subject finished in ten minutes», whereas an American photographer would need half a day for the same thing. I know what I want and the

Cowboy telephone, Texas.

The luxurious way of life | 59

CULTURE & ART

face of a model never slips just because I need several hours for a single image.

Is it an «innate eye» that creates such pictures?

I was eight years old when I got my first camera and even then I knew I would become a photographer.

Were there certain subject demands from Marlboro which you had to fulfill, or were you totally free to do as you wished?

I could and should determine my own thoughts as well as the look. A photographer must always be able to perform his task without any instructions.

In recent years, the advancement of photography, with respect to image processing, has developed rapidly.

Were your cowboy pictures completely real, or even then was the odd wrinkle edited here or there on a horse?

At that time, nothing was touched up and I deliberately used a grainy film.

The time of the Marlboro man is over, but the distinctive cowboy pictures live on. What led to your current cooperation with the LUMAS Gallery?

The photographer, Werner Pawlok, (also part of the LUMAS portfolio) convinced me of LUMAS’s concept. We finally got into discussions and I’ve been with them since May of this year. Thanks to LUMAS the pictures can now be seen in New York, Paris, London and Berlin! And this is despite the fact that at the beginning I had refused to publish the pictures in this manner.

What are the criteria you used to select the pictures for LUMAS? Of my major works, there are six pieces that cost around 300,000 Euros per picture. This price does not fit the LUMAS target group. Therefore, we have deliberately chosen pictures, which fit into LUMAS’s concept. Currently there are seven cowboys and two other pictures in the LUMAS portfolio. But others will be added for sure.

LUMAS Art should be for everyone. Prior to LUMAS this was often only a dream: Galleries usually offer high-priced unique items in large format or very exclusive limited edition works. But who can afford that? LUMAS offers selected works from various artists as autographed original photographs. These editions generally comprise 75 to 150 copies and thus it is possible to offer the works at an affordable price. Thus, everyone can afford high-quality artistic photographs – even in larger formats.

Lonely Cowboy, Texas.

www.lumas.com

60 | PRESTIGE

With a c i ga r i n th e h a n d a n d a t Wi n k le i n th e e y e, yo u Wo n ’ t fi n d a m o r e entertai n i n g co m pa n i o n to c eleb r ate th e c h i n e s e n e W y e a r With th a n th e m o n k e y n e v er a d u ll m o m ent

·

a n d fi lled to ov er floWi n g gath er i n g

·

·

fo r th e m o n k e y, th er e i s

th e y, li k e davi d o ff, s ee ti m e a s so m e th i n g to b e fi lled b e au ti fu lly

·

·

a liv ely a n d i r r ep r e s s i b le s pi r it, th e p l ay fu l p r e s en c e at a n y

th e y a r e s i m p ly lova b le enth u s ia s ts , e ag er to e xp er i en c e a ll th e va r i o u s

fl avo rs li fe h a s to o ffer

·

fl avo rs Wh i c h davi d o ff a r e eq ua lly e ag er to s u p p ly

davidoff.com

·

CULTURE & ART

© Colección Banco de España

«His innovative, unusual approach enriched portrait art to a whole new dimension.

Goya had the ability to reveal the inner workings of his models, which manifests itself even in the most sublime and memorable formal portraits.» – Dr. Xavier Bray, Chief Curator

© Museo de la Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, Madrid

Self Portrait in his studio | 1793 – 5 Oil on canvas | 42 x 28 cm

© The National Gallery, London

Self Portrait with Doctor Arrieta | 1820 Oil on canvas | 114,6 × 76,5 cm

© The National Gallery, London

Vicente Isabel Osorio de Moscoso y Fernández de Córdoba | Count of Altamira | 1787 Oil on canvas | 177x108 cm

© The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, Minnesota, The Ethel Morrison Van Derlip Fund

National Gallery London –

London

Exhibition at the National Gallery

Don Andrés del Peral Before 1798

62 | PRESTIGE

For the exhibition «Goya: The Portraits», around 70 of the painter’s most extraordinary portraits have been gathered from international, public and private collections. Among them are some of his works that have only very rarely been loaned. Others which have remained in the possession of the sitters’ descendants, have never before been shown to the public. The exhibition also illustrates the range of resources and materials that Goya used for his portraits; from life-size paintings on canvas, to miniatures on copper and fine black-red chalk drawings. In the chronologically and thematically structured showcase, Goya’s technical, stylistic and psychological development as a portraitist will be open to scrutiny for the first time www.nationalgallery.org.uk

CULTURE & ART

PORTRAITS

Francisco de Goya y Lucientes (1746 –1828) is one of Spain’s most celebrated artists. He stands out due to his trenchant social criticism and his extraordinary talent as a painter and who has elevated the genre of portraiture to an entirely new level.

Lilly Steffen

O

ne third of Goya’s work consists of portraits. Of these, more than 150 copies have survived to this day. He sees more than just the exterior of his models and allows their inner character and psychology to shine through subtly.

Royal Portraits with Sharp Brush Strokes Goya’s life spanned more than 80 years. He was born before Mozart and Casanova, survived Napoleon and was a witness to dramatic events that decisively influenced the course of European history. His career began at the court in Madrid. He later became the first court painter of Charles IV and the most popular portraitist of the Spanish aristocracy. Especially in his royal portraits, Goya manages to combine his keen sense of observation and technical sophistication to create equally unique and impressive works of art. In them he summarizes the different aspects of his model’s personality in a subtle look or a gesture that does not often flatter the sitter. Charles III’s pose in his hunting costume (Duquesa del Arco) is reminiscent of the hunting portraits of the Spanish royal family which Velázquez painted the previous century. The candid portrait of the weather-beaten face with its pronounced wrinkles and ironic gesture (to some extent) of his model is absolutely typical of Goya.

National Gallery London

In this way he is able to convey the King’s personality as that of an enlightened man who loves nature and his people and who wanted to be addressed as «Karl before King». In a similar fashion, in the portrait of Ferdinand VII, (Museo del Prado, Madrid) you can imagine Goya’s distrust of the haughty monarch who overruled Spain’s liberal constitution and reintroduced the Spanish Inquisition.

In contrast to the formality of royal portraits are Goya’s more personal works, including a series of self-portraits in different materials and the portraits of his friends and family. 47 years lie between the first self-portrait (circa 1773), which Goya completed in his late ’20s, and the last, the revealing self-portrait with Doctor Arrieta, which he painted after a disease from which he almost died at the age of 74. In addition, Goya often made portraits of people close to him, such as his wife Josefa Bayeu, his son Javier Goya and his best friend and lifelong correspondent Martin Zapater. Goya’s last work is a portrait of his beloved grandson, Mariano Goya. He finished it only a few months before he died on the 16th April 1828 and is a testament to the ingenuity of the assets and tireless creativity of an artist who continues his craft down to his last days.

The luxurious way of life | 63

TRAVEL

JOURNEY ACROSS THE BIGGEST SANDBOX IN THE WORLD

ISLAND Kilometres of white sandy beaches, hundreds of tropical islands, colourful coral gardens and a bright blue sea – Queensland has plenty to offer. The «Sunshine State» follows through on what its name promises. In short, it is the Australian holiday paradise.

«

Yvonne Beck

Warm, friendly and above all big» – the Queenslanders praise their home. And it’s no wonder: Queensland is home to the largest coral reef and the largest sand island in the world.

The only tropical rainforests of Australia are in Queensland, and inland people are attracted by the rugged beauty of the almost deserted outback.

Queensland is not only a vacation paradise – it’s Australia in miniature! «Miniature» should not be taken too literally though, because with its 1.73 million square kilometres, the State covers 22.5 per cent of Australia. Nearly five times as big as Germany, it takes up the entire northeast route of the fifth continent. Moreover, Queensland also boasts

the largest variety of habitats in Australia. More than 400 national parks and other protected areas preserve the natural heritage of the state – including five of the eleven major World Heritage Areas in Australia. Even the famous Pacific Coast between Brisbane and Cairns holds some titbits – especially Australia’s «Nature Coast». It offers more than 200 kilometres of beaches and has a total of 47 state and national parks and two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. One of these World Heritage listed regions is Fraser Island – 123 kilometres in length, it is the largest sand island in the world and the only place where all the vegetation grows on sand – also it’s a rainforest!

The luxurious way of life | 65

TRAVEL

Climate Queensland’s climate is subtropical, or tropical in the north. The water temperature at the Great Barrier Reef hovers between 25–30 degrees and is ideal for diving and snorkelling.

In principle, Queensland – especially in the south and centre – is an all-seasons destination. The peak season is considered to be the period from April to November.

Getting There

A flight from Europe to Australia will take 19 –25 hours – depending on the route and stopovers. The two main international airports in Queensland are Brisbane and Cairns.

Singapore Airlines flies daily via Singapore to Brisbane and also goes 3 times a week to Cairns. The flight lasts 19 to 21 hours. www.singaporeair.de

66 | PRESTIGE

Lake McKenzie

TRAVEL

The rainforest and its inhabitants Rainforests cover the entire east coast of Australia in a patchwork pattern down to Tasmania. Hundreds of different species of trees and striking tree ferns and palms thrive there. Ferns, mosses and lichens give the forest a mystical atmosphere. Sometimes you have the feeling that you are in the «Jurassic Park» and at every corner you expect a group of raptors. However, it is safe to wander through the woods, even alone, but you should not leave the landscaped paths, because in the undergrowth there lurk quite a few poisonous nettle plants and spiders. We only made acquaintance with the «Wait-a-While» vine. Contact with this hook-covered plant is almost unavoidable. Sooner or later, everyone will get hooked on this climber. The name Wait-a-While already indicates the prescription against violations by this plant. One has to wait and release the hooks carefully out of clothes before going on. Otherwise it can quite possibly rip the fabric, You should also keep your distance from the metre-high Nettle tree, the «Stinging Tree», which is located at the edges of jungles. With its heart-shaped leaves, it is reminiscent of a harmless lime, but on these leaves sit numerous stinging hairs which inject a liquid into the skin when touched. At worst, the injury can be fatal, but pain and inflammation are observed in all cases for weeks. Otherwise, however, a trip into the rainforest is an impressive experience into a magical world.

Laughing Hans and the silent giant The wreck of the Maheno is perfect for a selfie stop.

Nothing but sand?

Travelling to Fraser Island for the first time, one expects the sand island to be a kind of «Sahara in the water», with many dunes and a comparatively shallow sandbar. So: nothing but sand … That sounds a little monotonous, however the habitat diversity of the island is enormous because the majority of the up to 240 metre high dunes are overgrown. Yes, Fraser Island is surprising with its lush greenery. And if you fly over the island, the fascinating rainforest is especially striking in the north.

The island’s interior is a breathtaking natural paradise with wild and romantic streams. Dense mangrove forests alternate with mysterious swamps and colourful wildflowers. Fraser Island reaches up to 244 metres high, with windswept dunes and endless forests with ferns and huge trees. The island used to be a welcome source of timber at the water-repellent Satinay-pine was, among others, used in the construction of the Suez Canal. Since 1991, no trees have been felled, and the forests are becoming an ever more interesting jungle.

Most of the island is covered by grasses, shrubs and eucalyptus trees. Prehistoric palms and giant kauri pines form the island rainforest.

The east coast of Fraser Iceland is formed by more than 100 kilometres of sandy beach, where there are more than 50 shipwrecks. And like little blue beads, more than 200 freshwater lakes sparkle across the island. The three most popular lakes are Lake Wabby, Lake McKenzie and Lake Garawongera.

Lake McKenzie is particularly attractive due to its extremely clean, clear and soft fresh water, its ideal location and the brilliant white sand. It gives an incomparable «Raffaello-South Sea Feeling», surrounded by 1000-year-old trees and the call of kookaburras. The Kookaburra is an unmistakable, characteristic bird of Australia. It belongs to the family of kingfishers and is the by far the largest representative. Its loud, rattling laughter is so unmistakeable that it has earned the German name ’Laughing Hans’. They live in the open forests, parks and gardens of Queensland. When more animals compete with each other on the area border, it makes for an acoustic spectacle that will remain in one’s memory. However, they are also known as cheeky thieves. It can happen that they steal the meat from unwary barbecuers directly from the grill.

Another notorious resident of Fraser Island is the Dingo. Warning labels and codes of conduct can be seen everywhere, because his poor reputation precedes the Dingo. In a pack they even challenge red kangaroos, and sometimes they even attack people. Fraser Island is one of the last refuges of the dingo, the original form of the Australian wild dog – in other places he has long been supplanted by civilisation. Along the sandy highways at 75 Miles Beach on Fraser Island, however, you can still spot him still relatively often. But even without dingoes, a ride on the «sandiest highway in the world» is a unique and exciting experience.

And you can enjoy one of the most impressive animal experiences in Queensland from August to October. At this time, on a regular basis, humpback and sperm whales can be seen in Hervey Bay. Between 4000 and 5000 of these impressive animals make a stopover in the shallow waters of Platypus

The luxurious way of life | 67

TRAVEL

The silent death Even when everywhere offers gorgeous water to swim, caution is necessary here! Bathing in the sea can be perilous. There is a threat from frequent treacherous currents, the waters are very fast and deep, and many sharks lurk off the coast of Australia. In addition, this is the home of one of the most dangerous animals in Australia: the box jellyfish. It floats through the coastal waters of Australia with its football-sized body, trailing about 60 thin tentacles of five meters in length. On the tentacles sit millions of stinging cells that inject the victim with one of the most dangerous poisons known. A crab dies usually within seconds, a person after 5 minutes depending on the intensity of the contact, but always accompanied by excruciating pain. A fully grown box jellyfish has enough venom to kill 60 people! While an antidote is available, often it is not administered fast enough to help. Although vinegar prevents further discharge of nematocysts, it does not act against the poison itself. During much of the winter (May to October) swimming is absolutely safe, however. Otherwise, you should, be very careful!

At 1840 km², Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island.

Bay on their trail along the east coast. Hervey Bay is rightly called the «Whale Watching Capital of Australia». Every year, humpback whales from the Antarctic Ocean travel north towards the subtropical waters off the coast of Queensland to mate. Guests can visit the animals at this time on whale watching tours (www.tasmanventure.com.au). The silent giants approach the boats, coming within metres, because they are by nature very curious. And if one of the huge sea creatures rises out of the water right in front of your nose, it will take the breath away from even the most cynical amongst us, it’s so impressive. Most recently, visitors have been able to experience humpbacks from a completely new perspective in Queensland. The diving school «Sunreef» (www.sunreef.com.au) in Mooloolaba on the Sunshine Coast, as well as the company «Hervey Bay Whale Watch» (www.herveybaywhalewatch.com.au) on the Fraser Coast, offer for the first time in Australia the opportunity to swim with the ocean giants.

68 | PRESTIGE

Fraser Island is the only place where all of the vegetation grows on sand – even the rainforest!

trip in order to be scrapped in Osaka. She was pulled by a smaller ship. To reduce the flow resistance, they had expanded her screw and rudder, which meant that they could not manoeuvre the ship themselves. On the 7th July, both ships came upon a storm which tore the connecting cord and stranded Maheno on Fraser Island. Attempts to rescue the stranded ship failed. In the early years, the Maheno was used by the inhabitants of the island for, among other things, weddings and celebrations. Later it served the Royal Australian Air Force as a target object. Today the upper decks of the ship are still visible. And the old lady rusts slowly in front of your eyes.

Humpback and sperm whales are frequently seen in Hervey Bay.

Travelling to «Paradise» Car Ferries to the island run from Inskip Point (12 kilometres north of Rainbow Beach), Hervey Bay’s Urangan Harbour and the nearby Mary River Heads.

It’s easiest to experience the diversity of the island with an organised tour. A network of trails covers the island, but if you would rather explore on your own, it requires a four-wheel vehicle, a good map, two to three days and some 4WD-experience. There are fascinating sand dunes, shipwrecks, and colourful sand formations of Rainbow Gorge, The Pinnacles or The Cathedrals, not to mention the «Indian Heads» – Fraser’s most beautiful vantage point.

Even the river Eli Creek and the Maheno wreck invite you to stop for a photo op.

Here in 1935, on the east coast of the island, the former luxury liner SS Maheno ran aground during a cyclone. Between 1905 and 1935, the SS Maheno was used as a passenger ship between New Zealand and Australia. It could carry 420 passengers. On 3rd July 1935 the former luxury liner set out on her last

In the language of Aborigines, Fraser Island is «K’gari», which means something like «paradise».

You couldn’t really find a more appropriate name for the largest sand island in the world. Only a shipwreck in the 19th Century led to the renaming of the island. In 1836, a ship under Captain James Fraser of Sydney set out for Singapore. At the Great Barrier Reef the ship’s hull was damaged and the ship sank. The surviving castaways, including Captain Fraser and his wife Eliza, rowed back towards Brisbane. After about a month the lifeboats landed on the sand island. Over the several months waiting to be rescued from the island, some of the shipwrecked, including Captain Fraser, died – but Eliza Fraser survived thanks to the help of the natives. She was later rescued and told the story of their shipwreck as a fairground attraction in London’s Hyde Park. She padded out the story with ever more riotous details and was eventually admitted to a mental hospital. The island then got its present name from Captain Fraser, although «paradise» appears more appropriate.

The luxurious way of life | 69

TRAVEL

«To travel you need money, money, and more money.»

– Karl Baedecker –

70 | PRESTIGE

TRAVEL

THE

RISE OF THE

TOURISTS In modern times, travel was a privilege of the nobility, and British Nobles were always trendsetters. With the rise of the bourgeoisie and the invention of the steam engine, the masses also began to move.

David Renner

A

fter the Grand Tour was ruined for the nobility due to the revolutions on the continent and all of the artists and intellectuals moved to Italy, they set their sights on health spas and seaside resorts.

But the middle classes were hot on their heels as a result of the money that industrialisation brought. The exclusive residences between promenade, casino and ballroom were spoiled for the aristocrats. They then distanced themselves from the masses and went back to touring the continent. They withdrew to the French Riviera or ventured further to Italy, Egypt or Palestine to be among their equals. However, new means of transport meant that travel lost its exclusivity. The train and steamboat were relatively cheap and fast. It only took five days from Rotterdam to Strasbourg.

From the Red Book to Baedecker

The good society promenades to the casino in Nice.

British travellers always used to carry a little red book. It was John Murray’s: «Handbook for Travellers on the Continent». Karl Baedecker, who had owned a publishing company since 1827, noticed how astonishingly good Murray’s books were selling. The Quick Travel Guide, which he published himself, however, was a shelf warmer. The resourceful publisher then took a leaf out of the British top seller and edited Klein’s «Rhine journey from Mainz to Cologne» twice. His aim was a simple, entertaining and informative guide which travellers could rely on. He divided his book into three parts and pedantically reviewed its contents himself. Through its systematic and comprehensive layout, he freed travellers from having to depend on tourist guides of the time. He stressed the Protestant value of good food and lodging at low prices. Hosts clearly tracked his recommendations and warnings. In the years that followed he wrote more travel guides for those travelling during the warm months.

The luxurious way of life | 71

TRAVEL

«Kings and governments may err, but never Mister Baedeker.»

– Jacques Offenbach; La Vie Parisienne –

The train was the backbone of Tourism.

Paris was a must-see even before the world expo.

The bourgeois romantics travelled to the Middle Rhine and then on to Holland and Belgium, Paris, Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The Rhine Line from Cologne to Mainz opened in 1827 and by 1850 the ship was ferrying over one million visitors a year. Baedecker sold travellers his books, which soon bore the red cover and which marked highlights with Baedecker stars. The travelling educated middle classes rushed from the romantic views of the Middle Rhine to excellent paintings and special churches. Kaiser Wilhelm I was infected with Baedecker’s verbatim nit-picking: «People come here because in Baedecker it states that I observe the changing of the guard from my window».

Package Holidays à la Thomas Cook While the bourgeoisie went off exploring with their red books, Puritan Thomas Cook was fighting

72 | PRESTIGE

against the drunkenness of the working class. By 1845 they came in the hundreds of thousands on the weekends by the steam train to the formerly luxurious beach resorts, where they escaped to the piers with their brass bands, flea circuses, rollercoasters and pubs. To keep them away from the inn on Sundays, he began to organise tour packages. He made deals with transport companies for low prices and organised meals and entertainment. He organised trips to Cardiff, Dublin or to the World Exhibition in London in 1851. Due to its huge success, in 1864 he expanded his packages to the continent and then to Egypt. He introduced coupons and later on the traveller’s check, not only for the working class. Europe became a village for travellers. Even America was close and in 1867 an American tourist arrived in Hamburg. His name was Mark Twain. In his pocket was a red Baedecker.

THE FATHER OF MODERN FIELDWORK ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT Few scientific stars shine brighter in the sky of German science. Humboldt was convinced, loosely based on the principles of romanticism, that knowledge and science could never be exhausted. He spent his life meticulously studying flora and fauna and in his work Kosmos, he provides humanity with a better understanding of the interrelationships in nature.

Early on, Alexander started to collect insects, stones and plants and made drawings of them. He cherished the desire to understand the world and to experience as much as possible of it. However, he was confident that he could gain this knowledge only when traveling. In 1799 he set off on his first adventure and travelled to South America – a region, which at this point in time, people in Europe hardly knew about. Humboldt was overwhelmed by the colours, the light, the animals and plants of this new continent. He wanted to hold everything, to describe everything and to measure everything.

After three months he had already collected 16,000 plants, classified species and made an infinite number of drawings. He wanted to understand the individual parts of nature in order to grasp the whole picture. Many organisms and things appear for the first time in his writings. His work laid the foundation for modern science. At that point in time, biology did not yet exist. Even Darwin based his ideas on Humboldt’s records. But Alexander was also interested in people: their different languages, traditions, customs and their economy.

Every aspect was important to him and he cherished everything.

6 QUOTES «The most dangerous world view is the world view of those who have not viewed the world.»

«Even in science, one of the strongest forces is envy.»

«Science always proves what early ancestors already knew.»

With his records he not only wanted to impart knowledge but he also desired to generate an understanding of scientific studies. For this reason, Humboldt’s records are never dry, but are full of passion. He is the greatest scientific traveller who ever lived. A polymath who made essential contributions to almost every branch of science.

«But it is not enough to complain, rather you have to work to erase the complaints.»

«Everyone must have the courage to have their opinion.»

«A man must be enough in himself.»

«All scientific work is nothing more than applying new material to general laws.»

The luxurious way of life | 73

TRAVEL

EXCLUSIVE

YACHT CLUBS New York, Hamburg, Monaco, Palma, London: Among the yacht clubs around the world there are some that stand out because of their history, sporting activities and their social scenes.

Y

acht Clubs were founded with the goal of establishing common grounds for sailing. Since sailing was once the «sport of kings», many yacht clubs have preserved their royal structures and thus possess a certain exclusivity. If you want to become a guest or a member, you have to abide by certain rules. Only then can you gain an insight into the sporting and social networks that bind these clubs. The Royal Nautical Club Palma de Mallorca has been transformed from the smart-set hangout for actors such as Errol Flynn (hero of many pirate films) to one of the world’s most prominent sailing clubs – under the active patronage of the Spanish royal family who are sailing enthusiasts themselves. Influential, long-standing figures such as Aga Khan, the Roosevelt family and members of the British royal family were and still are involved in the social and sporting success of the yacht clubs. For these reasons, the yacht clubs have developed and continue to preserve a certain etiquette. And from these once eccentric old gentleman’s circles, companies with modern business structures have emerged, which are willing and able to organise major sporting events.

Lilly Steffen

The club library with its mahogany shelves and glass cabinets has a very British feel to it and is well frequented. It contains the most unique collection of over 14,000 books on yachting. Many of the interiors refer to the history of the America’s Cup. The heart of the club is the model room which contains 1700 full and half model racing yachts.

They were once needed to determine race rankings. These models form a unique collection of the history of yacht building. The collection of all of the full models includes all yachts that have competed in the America’s Cup. This collection culminates with the model of the victorious Swiss Alinghi of 2007. With the advent of multi-hull era, the collection has been closed. Floating billboards have no place in the sanctuary of sailing. The NYYC considers itself as a custodian of the maritime tradition.

The Yachting «Cathedral» – New York Yacht Club Built in the style of the belle époque, the clubhouse on 37 West 44th Street (just around the corner from the fashionable Fifth Avenue) has been the residence of the legendary New York Yacht Club since 1901. Its front is reminiscent of the stern of an old galleon and its Grill Room behind the facade corresponds to a liner’s wardroom. Here you can sit down with a Dry Martini and New York steak in a circular restaurant reminiscent of the days of Lord Nelson.

74 | PRESTIGE

Founded in 1844, the New York Yacht Club (NYYC) is probably the most prominent sailing club in the world. The admissions committee votes only after careful examination of a person’s sailing CV. Values such as tradition, sportsmanship, seamanship and etiquette are held especially high among its 3000 members. Foremost, however, is always fun

«Sailing is a rather expensive sport because the sports equipment is expensive. Therefore, many of the big clubs are home to very wealthy people. It is also true that all clubs put a great deal of effort into training young talent.»

– Svante Domizlaff – New York Yacht Club

followed by promoting yachting and the sailing regatta. The NYYC is therefore not a society club, but a real yacht club – with a noble ambience and an exceptional size.

Under the protection of the Royal Family – Royal Thames Yacht Club Where other yacht clubs have framed photos of their commodores on their walls, the Royal Thames Yacht Club has oil paintings of its dignitaries. The London club will lay claim to being the longestrunning yacht club in the world. After the accession of King William IV, the Duke of Cumberland, the brother of King George III, was awarded his honorary title as a result of founding «Cumberland Fleet» in 1775. And like all traditional British yacht clubs the «Royal Thames», as it is known, is under the protection of the royal family.

Royal Thames Yacht Club

The club maintains a close relationship with the Royal Navy, is in a befitting location and offers its guests a traditional British club atmosphere. The smell of gin and Darjeeling tea, the collection of awe-inspiring historical paintings, maritime antiques and a serving of Royal dust have influenced its

The luxurious way of life | 75

Real Club Nautico de Palma

style and have made British clubs renowned around the world. Despite the distance from the water, the Royal Thames is much more than a social club. Its interests cover all areas of sailing. It has a dedicated club life with lectures on historical maritime issues.

a yachtsman and behave accordingly, you will most likely be allowed in. The yacht club currently has 2000 members. It only accepts new members when vacancies open up – be it through resignation or death. No wonder that there is a long waiting list. Nevertheless, the RCNP is not just a club for socialising.

It is home to many Olympic champions as well as successful maxi yacht sailors such as Thomas Bscher and Albert Roemmers.

Around 900 Berths – Real Club Nautico de Palma Whoever is into sporty sailing in the Mediterranean will know about the bay of Palma de Mallorca and the important race weeks like the Trofeo Princesa Sofia, the Palmavela, the Trofeo Ciutat de Palma, the Copa del Rey and, let’s not forget, the Superyacht Cup. The focus of all these sporting and social events is the Royal Yacht Club, the Real Club Nautico de Palma (RCNP), which has grown under the active patronage of the Spanish royal family who are sailing enthusiasts. In sporting terms: it is one of the world’s most important sailing clubs.

The RCNP was founded on the 28th August 1948.

It lies at the centre of Palma in a privileged location within the bay. The RCNP is known to be a regular port of call for ships sailing in the waters of the Balearic Islands.

During major events, the club is largely accessible to the general public. For the rest of the year, entrance is controlled. But if you present yourself as

MEMBERS ONLY

Exclusive Yacht Clubs Svante Domizlaff Delius Klasing Verlag

The most exclusive yacht clubs are for members only.

Sailing fan Svante Domizlaff really wanted to get into one.

«Sailing is a rather expensive sport because the sports equipment is expensive. Therefore, many of the big clubs are home to very wealthy people. It is also true that all clubs put a great deal of effort into training young talent.»

According to Svante Domizlaff in an interview with the magazine Spiegel.

In his book he describes ten incredibly exclusive yacht clubs, which include the Royal Yacht Squadron and the New York Yacht Club.

76 | PRESTIGE

CELEBRITY HOTSPOTS IN AMERICA THE TOP

FROM HOLLYWOOD TO THE HAMPTONS

There is no country in the world where you meet more celebrities than in the land of opportunity. Whether at a sports event or during a shopping spree – kitted out with autograph book and selfie stick, the hunt for the stars is on.

Hollywood, Los Angeles California Celebrity spotting in Hollywood is a thriving business.

There are countless bus tours through the Hollywood Hills.

With a guide you are driven directly to the doorsteps of celebrities such as pop star Britney Spears, film director Quentin Tarantino or «Friends» star Courteney Cox and will learn need-to-know insider tips. The Sunset Strip and Hollywood Boulevard are other prime locations for seeing stars. You should also keep your eyes open during the flight.

It is quite possible that there is already a star in the cabin.

Long Island New York Long Island is considered a playground for the rich and famous and is home to countless celebrities, such as actress Sarah Jessica Parker, singer Jennifer Lopez and comedian Jerry Seinfeld.

The Hamptons is a group of villages on the eastern end of Long Island.

In the towns of Southampton and East Hampton the chances of meeting a star having dinner at one of the many luxury restaurants or shopping on Main Street are high.

Las Vegas Nevada In recent years, celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Paris Hilton have been frequently spotted at pool parties in one of the hotels in this gambling mecca. Don’t worry if your name is not on the guest list – the city has plenty of clubs that are often frequented by the stars. One of the most popular is the LAX nightclub at the Luxor Hotel. With a little luck you might even end up meeting the co-owner, Christina Aguilera.

Miami Florida

A-list stars such as ex-footballer David Beckham, singer Rihanna and Hollywood actor Zac Efron are among the most famous fans of the NBA team Miami Heat and sometimes even steal the limelight from the players on the court. Combine the sports event with some celebrity-hunting in Miami Beach, where even more stars stay, for example, in the exclusive members-only Soho Beach House.

TRAVEL

INSIDER

AMSTERDAM This lively city is a treasure trove of exceptional works of art and represents a 900-year history, during which it was also the centre of a world empire.

After a period of decline Amsterdam has now become a tolerant and modern metropolis. Whatever you are looking for – you will find in Amsterdam.

Flowers, Flowers, Flowers The Bloemenmarkt is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque places in Amsterdam. Residents come here to purchase flowers for their homes. Visitors are better off purchasing bulbs which they can take home. Once upon a time, merchants would come straight from their nurseries by boat to the market on the Singel to sell their goods directly from these boats. Although the market stalls are on the water, don’t worry, they are firmly moored.

Hidden from the Nazis The Anne Frank House tells the tragic story of Anne Frank. In 1942, when the Nazis began deporting Jews from Amsterdam, the Frank and van Pels families hid for 25 months in a secret building behind Otto Franks office on the Prinsengracht, which is known today as the Anne Frank House. You can visit the narrow room where eight people lived and get a sense of the claustrophobic atmosphere. On one wall you can even see the pencil marks that record Anne and her sister Margot’s height. You can also visit the offices and warehouses of the office building and see the rotatable bookshelf that camouflaged the entrance to the secret Annex.

78 | PRESTIGE

TRAVEL

Spiegelkwartier At the end of the 19th century antique dealers opened shops on the Nieuwe Spiegelstraat which led to the newly opened Rijksmuseum. Today, there are more than 80 such shops with antique porcelain, furniture, glassware and books. Eduard Kramer’s antique shop includes Dutch ornamental tiles, Delft Blue, pewter and candlesticks.

Red-Light District The oldest profession in the world occupies the oldest part of the city, de Walletjes, bounded by Zeedijk, Kloveniersburgwal, Damstraat and Warmoesstraat.

Today, the red-light district is one of the Amsterdam’s greatest attractions. Prostitutes display their prices in shop windows, even though the city council has been trying for years to gentrify the district with shops and businesses.

Canals, Channels & the Bizarre It’s fun exploring Amsterdam’s 75 km long network of waterways with its bridges (1281 in total), typical gable facades and inviting cafes along the waterfront. One of the most prestigious canals is the Herengracht. It is known for its elegant and very classy golden arches and houses that belonged to rich merchants. Many attractions are situated along Amsterdam’s canals, such as the cellars of the Dutch national bank. They are situated at a depth of approximately 15 metres. In the event of an alarm, it can be flooded with water from the Singelgracht. Built in 1624, Café Chris, situated on Bloemstraat, is also worth a visit. It is the oldest café in the city. Interesting fact: The chain to flush the toilet is on the wall at the bar.

Pannekoeken & Poffertjes There are pancake houses situated all around Amsterdam, which offer a large selection of pancakes. Those with a sweet tooth should definitely visit the Pancake Bakery, situated on the Prinsengracht. Large pancakes with thick «Stroop» (syrup) are particularly popular. Deliciously sugared «poffertjes» (mini pancakes) are sold at the Dam and Leidseplein.

The luxurious way of life | 79

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

&

WATCHES

Standing still means going backwards.

As a result, the watch industry has continued to showcase exciting innovations, such as those seen by the Richemont Group brands during the exclusive Watches and Wonders in Hong Kong this September. Because their competitors are just as creative, they cannot afford to miss out under any circumstances.

Gisbert L. Brunner

80 | PRESTIGE

ROLEX Rolex Datejust: Noblesse à Discretion The profound internal and external value of the Rolex «Oyster Perpetual LadyDatejust 28» is subtle. This is for women who love luxury but show it in a very discrete manner. The 28 mm case and bracelet are made of platinum which is extremely discrete to the eye. The dial features nine diamonds and the IX numeral itself contains eight diamonds. Ceramic inserts increase the bracelet’s scratch-resistance. This officially certified chronometer contains an automatic movement, a «Siloxi» silicon balance and is waterproof up to a pressure of ten bar.

The luxurious way of life | 81

Watch with a Rope: Hublot Big Bang Zermatt People first climbed the Matterhorn 150 years ago. Hublot used this anniversary to release 150 limited edition watches in both tungsten or rose gold cases. The chronograph, named after Zermatt, the village at the foot of the mountain, has a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel. The double caseback displays the in-house automatic HUB 4100 calibre. Between the two rear sapphire crystals, there are three centimetres of mountaineering rope, which was allegedly found 4320 meters above sea level on the north-eastern edge of the Matterhorn. Hence, it is engraved with the message ÂŤOriginal rope from the Matterhorn. 4320 metres above sea levelÂť. The sporty cases are waterproof up to a pressure of ten bar.

82 | PRESTIGE

HUBLOT

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

BAUME & MERCIER

W&W

Baume & Mercier: Ringing Clifton In 2012 Baume & Mercier launched the first editions from their «Clifton» range.

Its style, which stresses nostalgia, has proven to be a success. A successor to the 2013 «Clifton» Tourbillon watchstrap, the 2015 limited edition comes with a watch housing. They are unique in that they have a five-minute repeater striking mechanism. An «all-or-nothing safety mechanism» prevents the subdial from striking incorrectly, thus never telling the incorrect time. The modular design watch mechanism consists of a skeletonised hand wound Eta 6498 calibre with a frequency of 2.5 Hertz and a Dubois Dépraz repeater. The opulent gold case measures 50 millimetres. Baume & Mercier have produced 30 individually numbered editions.

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

FERDINAND BERTHOUD

Glashütte Original: The Sixties are Back An era which emphasised style has been revived in the «Sixties Iconic Collection». This special collection of five colourful timepieces brings back memories of the 1960s. Back then the VEB Glashütter watch companies (GUB) had the «Spezimatic» with a self-winding rotor. The designers were inspired by these sought-after collectors’ editions. Today, the 39-millimetre steel case comes with a modern automatic 39-52 calibre and a power reserve of 40 hours. Customers are spoilt for choice with the dial colours: Sixties Red, Sixties Gold, Sixties Aqua, Sixties Brown and Sixties Grey.

Ferdinand Berthoud: The Return of a Grand Name The watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud lived in the 18th century. Accurate pocket watches, clocks and marine chronometers originated from his work. As a member of the Chopard Group, the new «Chronometrié Ferdinand Berthoud» has twice recently released 50 limited edition «Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1» chronometers in white gold titanium and rose gold ceramic cases. Through side viewing windows and a sapphire crystal back you can see the exclusive hand wound FB T.FC calibre. The historical control elements include a chainscrew system for constant driving force. The backwards rotating tourbillon in a titanium mounting is reminiscent of Berthoud’s contemporary, AbrahamLouis Breguet. Technical refinements also include the truncated cone-power reserve indicator and the centre second hand with a patented direct drive.

The luxurious way of life | 83

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

MONTBLANC

Only One Push-Button: IWC «Portofino» Monopusher Chronograph At IWC, the 45 mm «Portofino» – models 515 103 (White Gold) and 515 104 (rose gold) have flourished after extensive optimization for series production. The chronograph is controlled by a single push-button, which is integrated into the winding and time-setting crown. The mechanism which receives its power supply by winding the crown, features a stopwatch that can measure time for up to 60 minutes. This model has a hand wound 59360 calibre, eight days power reserve, four Hertz frequency, stop-seconds function, date and power reserve dials. IWC manufactures their watches in Schaffenhausen.

IWC

W&W

Retro Look Chronograph: Montblanc 1858 Montblanc has released its new 1858 collection as a tribute to the founders of the original watch manufacturer Minerva. 100 limited editions of this chronograph have been made. Each one has a 44 mm rose gold case and was inspired by watches made in the 1930s. Its winding crown controls the three functions: start, stop and zero setting. The classic manufacture MB M16.29 calibre consists of 252 carefully refined components. Gear train and horizontal clutch mechanics are a given. The classic elements also include the large screw balance, Breguet spring, 2.5 Hertz frequency and an elegant swan-neck fine adjustment for the back. Around the edge of the black dial with its distinctive luminescent numbers is a tachymeter for measuring speeds over a predefined distance of up to a kilometre.

W&W

W&W

PANERAI New Caliber: Panerai P.1000 Panerai has put forward another chronograph from its factory in Asia. This relatively small hand wound P.1000 calibre, which measures 26.8 mm in diameter, is housed in a Radiomir 1940 case in either steel or pink gold. The chronograph, which consists of 152 components with a frequency of four Hertz, has a famous design with a minimal height adjustable balance bridge, two serially connected barrels, a three-day power reserve and the small seconds at «9». A further feature of the 3.85 mm P.1000 is a zero reset for synchronising the second hand with a time signal. When winding the crown, the movement stops and the small second hand moves to the vertical position.

With a 42 mm case this watch can also be worn by women.

84 | PRESTIGE

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Girard-Perregaux 1966: Pure Retro Look Girard-Perregaux has released its Antoine de Saint-ExupÊry model for its 1966 line, which is reminiscent of precisely that year. In his opinion, perfection was achieved not when nothing more could be added, but when nothing more could be taken away. This also applies to the latest 1966 model. Up to this point, the collection only consisted of precious metal cases. Now, the classic timepiece is available in stainless steel. The flat 40-millimeter shell has a sapphire crystal caseback. Behind it, the balance of the in-house automatic GP03300-0030 calibre with a power reserve of at least 46 hours, a central second hand and date aperture performs 28‚8000 vibrations an hour. It is water-resistant up to three bar.

The luxurious way of life | 85

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

TAG HEUER Intelligently Connected: TAG Heuer Connected In a collaboration with the computer chip manufacturer Intel and the software giant Google, TAG Heuer returns with its brand new «Connected». At first glance, it appears that this is a classic titanium «Carrera» featuring an analogue time display. The various SmartWatch features only become apparent with an in-depth analysis of the integrated microcomputer. After turning the watch on, several dials are available. Further dials, for example those created

by Cara Delevingne and David Guetta, can be downloaded via Wi-Fi. There are also smartphone independent timing functions such as a stopwatch, timer and alarm. Sensor-controlled applications are used for sleep control, speed measurement and the activity tracker «Google Fit». Many more apps are available in Google’s Play Store. Bluetooth is required to communicate with sensors, speakers or smartphones. TAG Heuer is also compatible with Apple and Microsoft operating systems.

86 | PRESTIGE

Super Premium

www.imperialcollection.ch

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Jumping every second: Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second In 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a line of watches whose future has now begun with the «Geophysic True Second». Its second hand jumps like a quartz watch. With a 6.75 mm automatic 770 calibre, date aperture, 40-hour power reserve and a unilateral rotor, no less than 30 of 275 components have been allotted to the jumping mechanics of the second hand. Another new feature is the reminiscent balance on the brand’s logo with external gold elements which oscillate at four Hertz. For the second hand to jump, a small spiral spring has to be counted and preloaded. It is released after eight balance oscillations. For globetrotters, the hour hand is independently adjustable. The 36.9 mm case comes in factory steel or pink gold.

W&W

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Pure nostalgia: Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 The hand wound 1142 calibre chronograph is based on the 2310 Nouvelle Lemania, now called the Breguet. Due to thorough production processes and enhanced components such as a specially designed train and an increased frequency of three Hertz, Vacheron Constantin has rechristened the Ébauche.

Each edition consists of 164 components. When fully wound, the mainspring guarantees a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. This enhanced chronograph can be found in the «Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955». The cow horns are a reminder of the lugs that were popular in the 1940s and 1950s.

The platinum case with skeleton back measures 38.5 millimetres. Proof of its Geneva origin is marked with a seal bearing the city’s coat of arms. This noble chronograph will deviate no more than a minute in a week with its tachymeter.

88 | PRESTIGE

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Audemars Piguet: Including a Calendar Week Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak first debuted in 1983 with an ultra-flat perpetual calendar. A new generation of mechanism, under the name of «Grand Tapisserie» has brought several specialised innovations to their dials. A larger diameter allows for better readability. An astronomical moon phase display has now joined the date, weekday, month and leap year cycle displays of the 4.31 mm high, 5134 calibre chronograph, which consists of 374 components.

It takes 125 years and 317 days for the watch to deviate by one day. The moon optic is actually modelled on a NASA photo. The current calendar week takes up a third of the centre dial with rotating hands. The steel case has increased to 41 millimetres.

W&W

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

OMEGA Double Tested: Omega «Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer» Two certificates demonstrate the quality of the Omega «Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer». The Chronometer has an automatic 8900 calibre, a frequency of 3.5 Hertz, two barrels and a power reserve of 60 hours. Each one must be examined by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

Each one must also pass the even harder METAS check. The 8 stage process developed by the Federal Institute of Metrology examines both the mechanism and the entire watch. As a result, each watch can perform effortlessly in magnetic fields up to 15,000 gausses. The balance is made from berylliumfree titanium and the escapement from silicon. The Master Chronometer title also means that the chronometer has been tested for water-tightness and accuracy in six positions under realistic conditions. It is only given to models that deviate less than five seconds each day. Slow is not tolerated.

The luxurious way of life | 89

BREGUET

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

90 | PRESTIGE

Devoted to Tradition: Breguet Reference 7097 The Reference 7027 has amazed viewers with its visible mechanics since 2005. The «Tradition» collection reminds us of the heritage of horological genius Abraham-Louis Breguet. Breguet celebrated the first anniversary of its successful line with the release of the «Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde7097». Once again, the model name is a message. In addition to the conventional rotating hour and minute hands, this newcomer, which ticks at three Hertz, also has a retrograde second hand. The second hand is situated on the top left of the 40 millimetre white gold case in a circular segment.

After a minute it accurately jumps back to the starting point of its pilgrimage.

The armature and the Breguet balance spring of the automatic 505SR1 calibre is made of silicon.

A. Lange & Söhne: Honey Gold Anniversary In 2015 Ferdinand Adolph Lange would have celebrated his 200th birthday.

This was worthy of an A. Lange & Söhne limited edition anniversary watch.

To mark the occasion of the 200th anniversary of the 1815 F. A. Lange, a total of 200 copies were made. Staying true to the company’s philosophy since 1994, the 40 mm case is made from precious metals. The base of the special gold alloy is 18-carat white gold – no palladium, nickel or silver. The honeyglow is caused by the addition of copper, zinc and silicon. A secret thermal process results in a Vickers hardness of 320, 140 more than normal gold. Inside the precious case, the hand wound calibre L051.1 ticks. Features: 55-hour power reserve, balance wheel with variable inertia, three Hertz frequency and a drop-in anchor setting with an elegant swan-neck fine adjustment.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

W&W

W&W

CARTIER Cartier and the Mysterious Clé In 1913 Cartier debuted their «Pendule Mystérieuse». Its hands appeared to float in a vacuum. In 2013 Cartier put this fascinating feature into a watch. It mysteriously told the time without appearing to be powered. The trick: two interlocked sapphire glass discs placed on top of each other. It has a hand wound 9981MC calibre and a power reserve of 48 hours. The model calmly handled a shock and drop test of 500-g from a height of one metre. But would the «Clé de Cartier» be spared the same inglorious fate of one of the mysterious clocks which broke, as the Duchess of Westminster describes in her memoirs, during a night-time marital row when it was hurled against the bedroom wall?

H. MOSER & CIE. H. Moser & Cie. Shows its Sporty Side A new, sporty era has dawned upon A. Moser & Cie. with their new «Pioneer» collection. The elegant red gold and titanium case with a screw-down crown is waterproof up to pressures of twelve bar. The family-run company has produced a chronograph which transmits the time with a 4.7 millimetre automatic HMC 230 calibre. The in-house oscillation system performs 21,600 vibrations an hour. A rotor carries energy to the mainspring in both rotation directions. After full winding, this chronograph has a power reserve of at least three days.

The luxurious way of life | 91

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

W&W

Renaissance of an Icon: Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas The original design of the yellow gold «Cadenas» by Van Cleef & Arpels comes from 1935. Since then, this feminine watch has become a real style icon.

During Watches & Wonders, a new version of this very «Cadenas» debuted with a striking armband as part of a Renaissance of famous creations. Women can choose from nine different models according to personal tastes and preferences. Each model uses a quartz movement.

ULYSSE NARDIN Feminine by Ulysse Nardin Created by Ulysse Nardin especially for women, the «Jade» comes in an oval pink gold case which measures 36 x 39 mm and features the automatic UN-310 calibre, a power reserve of approximately 48 hours and a small second dial. It is well-known that the manufacturer is one of the pioneers in silicon technology, hence the swing and escapement are made of silicon. The crown no longer needs to be pulled to set the time and date. There is a push-button located at 4 o’clock to switch between its three functions. A small hand points to the selected function. The entire watch contains diamonds with a total weight of 1.73 carats.

PIAGET

W&W

92 | PRESTIGE

Under the Sign of the Moon: Piaget and the Limelight Stella Piaget has revealed its first complication watch with automatic movement designed especially for women. More specifically, the new «Limelight Stella» includes a large moon phase display. In the synodic month, a lunation, i. e. the time it takes from one new moon to the next, 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds or 29.53059 days. For the sake of simplicity, watchmakers round this up to 29.5 days. This is not the case with this feminine timepiece. Under its dial is a complex gear train, which – driven by the automatic 584P with a 42-hour power reserve – only requires a one-day correction every 122 years.

The moon is framed with «lucky» constellations. All models contain diamonds.

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

PARMIGIANI Parmigiani «Tonda Hémisphères»: At Home Anywhere in the World.

Women enjoy travelling just as much as men. For this very reason Parmigiani Fleurier has created the feminine «Tonda Hémisphères». This watch features two time zones on its dial that are accurate to the minute. This means that it is suitable for countries with time zones that differ by half or a quarter of an hour. This is made possible by the exclusive automatic PF33 calibre. To avoid any misunderstandings and unpleasant untimely calls, Parmigiani has equipped each set of hands with a day-night indicator. The steel case measures 42 millimetres. Its bezel contains 80 diamonds. To ensure comfort on the wrist, the chronograph features a blue calfskin strap made by the Parisian bag designer Hermès.

The luxurious way of life | 93

BLANCPAIN

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

94 | PRESTIGE

Bathyscaphe: Submerged with Blancpain The automatic F385 calibre of the «Bathyscaphe» diver's watch from Blancpain includes a fly back function. Fleet five Hertz frequency allows precision of up to a tenth of a second – even at depths of 300 metres. The balance spring is made of lightweight, highly elastic and, above all, non-magnetic silicon.

Lovers of mechanics can look through the sapphire crystal on the back of the 43 mm ceramic case. The innovative character of this timepiece is carried forward with a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with Liquid Metal-indexing.

It consists of a patented metal glass alloy which connects to the scratchresistant carrier material thanks to its amorphous structure.

ROGER DUBUIS

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Gang of Four: Roger Dubuis and the «Excalibur Quatuor» It divides the time in equal sections to create a balance. The hand-wound RD 101 calibre in the Roger Dubuis «Excalibur Quatuor» has four sprung balances which oscillate at an angle of 45 degrees. Each one produces 28,800 vibrations an hour, which works out to 115,200 vibrations all with the purpose of compensating positional changes and other irregularities. This combined cooperation requires three differential gears, which are connected to the balances and the central motion work. The average of each gear is always displayed. A fourth differential drives the power reserve indicator and the fifth serves to tighten the two mainsprings. In total, the watch consists of 590 components which all work together in the 60mm «Excalibur Spider Pocket». Each of the 28 titanium watches comes with a Geneva Seal.

W&W

ORIS Watch with an Altimeter: Oris Big Crown PROPILOT Altimeter Oris’ «Big Crown PROPILOT Altimeter» takes us back in pilot-watch history to 1938. A distinctive feature of the pilot’s watch was a large, non-slip crown, which could be wound when wearing gloves. The steel «Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter» is the first automatic wristwatch with a mechanical altimeter. The 47 mm in-house design with an automatic Sellita SW-200 calibre is intended for pilots, mountaineers, mountain bikers, researchers and scientists. Strictly speaking, this Swiss timepiece is a combination of a watch and a mechanical altimeter with laminated carbon fibre hands. The altitude scale situated on the outer ring of the dial is for heights of up to 15,000 feet or 4500 metres.

Oris designed the patented crown to ward off moisture.

WEMPE Wempe Zeitmeister: Chronometer from Glashütte From the «Time Master Scuba Diver Chronograph cermet» Wempe in Glashütte is releasing its own series. This striking diver’s watch is waterproof up to a depth of 300 metres. Its case is made of steel and on one side is a «Cermet» scratch-resistant bezel. Metal and ceramic are combined to create a robust, high-tech material. Copper elements give the timepiece a rose gold hue. The heart of the chronograph, an SW 500 calibre, is produced by Sellita.

The modifications carried out by Wempe allow for the «Made in Germany» inscription on the dial. Once manufactured, each timepiece must pass the German Chronometer Test in Glashütte.

The luxurious way of life | 95

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

RADO Rado True: True Beauty is Eternal Rado first debuted the «True» with its naturally scratch-resistant gloss and matt ceramic outfit in 2006. 2015 brings a striking facelift. Similar to the «Hyper Chrome» which debuted in 2014, the «True» is made from plasmatreated high-tech ceramic. At the beginning of the advanced production process, the casing is created from finished ceramic and polished ceramic when necessary. They are then placed in a special furnace where a plasma column produces gases at 900° C which pass through the porous material into its core. After this process, the surface shines in a warm grey despite not having a metal coating. The 40 mm «True Automatic» is fitted with an Eta C07.611 movement. This is an optimized 2824-A2 with a power reserve of 80 hours.

96 | PRESTIGE

THE

Golden MEAN The radiance of gold and diamond is the most comprehensive framework to cast others in the best light. Clear Poppies in the dial or the deep hues of gemstones are also set in the right light as subtle rosé or colorful animal patterns.

Timeless for the wrist or ears.

I

BY LAURA

II III

V

IV VI

I FABERGÉ II HARRY WINSTON III OLIVER HEEMEYER IV V VI VII

STENZHORN CHOPARD PASQUALE BRUNI PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

VII The luxurious way of life | 97

THE «INVENTOR» OF THE PORTABLE WATCH PETER HENLEIN Nowadays, most people look at their mobile phones when they want to know the time. For a long time, people could only find out the exact time by looking at the church clock or at the sundial in the garden. Mobile timekeeping was first brought into being by the invention of the pocket watch. Their inventor was Peter Henlein – a master locksmith from Nuremberg. Although no watch produced by Henlein has ever been found, he was mentioned in Johann Cochlaeus’ 1512 «Short Description of Germany» as a manufacturer of small, portable mechanical clocks. Henlein’s portable watches probably had a housing in the shape of a can or a drum or were spherical like the pomanders of the time.

Little is known about Henlein’s life. It is known that he became master of the Nuremberg locksmith’s trade in 1509, he was born in 1480 and died in 1542.

Due to the lack of accurate biographical data that survived, his birth year was worked out based upon a back calculation made from the year he earned his Master Craftsman’s Certificate. However, it is certain that Henlein manufactured and repaired watches. He also manufactured mechanical clocks which earned him a high reputation and substantial wealth. By 1511 he was regarded

5 QUOTES

alongside Albrecht Dürer as one of the most prominent Nuremberg artists and craftsmen. His clientele included German kings and princes. From the 1520s, Nuremberg city records mention Henlein more frequently as a contractor and a payment recipient. The little marvels, as pocket watches were called at the time, were passed on as gifts from the state to high-ranking figures. One was given to the imperial secretary Johann Hannart Graf von Lombecke, another was given to the confessor of Duke George of Saxony, Christof Ering.

Whether Peter Henlein invented the pocket watch himself, is still unclear. However, it is certain that he enhanced pocket watches through the development of new technologies and opened up the watchmaker’s trade to methods unknown until then for their production.

«The clock has question marks for hands.» – Manfred Hinrich –

«The perfection of a clock is not to go fast, but to be accurate.» – Luc de Clapiers, Marquis de Vauvenargues – «Even if we do away with all the watches, we cannot stop time» – Walter Ludin – «Whether pendulum or quartz: the speed is fixed.» – Walter Ludin – «You do not see the danger present in a timepiece.» – Siegfried Wache –

98 | PRESTIGE

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

DIMENSIONS OF TIME AND THE

WATCHES OF URBAN JÜRGENSEN At first glance, time is like a restless friend who’s always moving forward. It’s already later than we thought and we still have to take care of this and that by precisely this time—and yet there are other dimensions of time reflected in high-quality watches as well.

Georg Lutz

T

he ever-progressing hand tells us that time is a scarce commodity and that our time will eventually come. It’s time that’s constantly driving us forward. That hasn’t always been the case. In the Middle Ages, people still oriented themselves by years and harvest times as well as religious holidays in the calendar. Time wasn’t of particular importance. It was the modern era that brought the passing of time to our wrist.

Now and then, however, time does take a backseat. Lovers lost in a warm embrace, when asked how long their kiss lasted, will just stare blankly back at you. In the same way it’s all too easy to lose track of time on a rainy Sunday afternoon in front of the fire with a glass of red wine. Only when the telephone suddenly rings does time return to the forefront. Therefore, time isn’t an independent actor. It’s just the medium in which everything happens. It’s at rest on its own.

In any case, time has dug deeply into our conscious and unconscious lives.

Time is simultaneously our daily life, the history of philosophy, and the promise for the next generation. It shapes our past, present, and future. For this reason, watches that reflect these different dimensions are needed.

The watches of Urban Jürgensen embody the timepiece, breathe history, shape our daily lives, and point to the future at the same time. Here, modernity isn’t

in austere factory buildings, but rather in studios that are closer to classical workshops, where artisanal craftsmanship with individual perfection are fostered. Despite all the advances in productivity, for 240 years the same high standards of craftsmanship continue to live on at Urban Jürgensen.

The focus was and remains a constant quest to push the boundaries of horological perfection ever farther. Thus the art of craftsmanship gives rise to distinct products that bring joy. In this setting, the concept of authenticity is the promise of quality by which leaders want to be judged.

III

II

Splendour I SEAS

BY LAURA

OF THE

The perfect shape of the pearl does not need much to show off its lustre. Beads in silver, white gold or red gold edged in dark green, aubergine and white enchant the rest of the outfit with its gentle elegance this spring. A successful performance requires only a slight accent.

IV BUCHERER BULGARI TÃœRLER OLIVER HEEMEYER V LALIQUE VI PANDORA VII BUCHERER I II III IV

V VI

VII

SUBSCRIBE CHF 39.– / € 35.– / YEAR

www.prestigemedia.ch

© Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

MURDER AND

LUST DIAMONDS AND THEIR CRIMES

Diamonds capture light and sparkle in our eyes but their charm arouses desire, which sometimes leads to crime.

David Renner

aris is the site of the biggest diamond heist in history. During the turmoil of the French Revolution, the French Crown Jewels collection was on show in the Garde-Meuble on the Place de la Concorde. On the night of the 17th November 1792, resourceful thieves broke in and stole the jewels on display. Cadet Guillot, the head of the gang, escaped with the Crown jewels which contained the «Hope» diamond. The diamond only emerged from the shadows after the amnesty. The blue stone, the name given to the jewel by its future owner, is said to have been cursed. However, not all of its owners were unlucky. Well, a dancer was gunned down by her admirer, other relatives died prematurely or perished on the Titanic – but not all.

102 | PRESTIGE

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Lies and Deceit The «Orlov» diamond, which currently lies at the centre of the Russian sceptre, was the result of a cunning temple robbery. A French deserter who found refuge in Madras in Srirangam, eventually heard of the wealth of the nearby temple. In its innermost grounds was a sacred Vishnu statue whose eyes were two huge diamonds. The temple is situated on an island and is surrounded by seven walls, but it is not open to Christians. So the Frenchman pretended to be a Hindu convert and earned the trust of the guards over the following years. On one stormy night, he snuck into the holiest part of the temple and stole one of the sacred God’s diamonds, but then lost his nerve. In the pouring rain, he scaled the seven walls and plunged into the water. He retreated through the jungle and finally arrived at an English settlement.

Trickery and Deceit However, the most elegant robbery was the robbery of the Koh-i-Noor, the most famous stone in

the world. Its history dates back to Ala-ed-Din Khalji, the ruler of Delhi in the 13th century and continues to today where it is part of the British Crown Jewels. It has changed owners numerous times over the centuries, often resulting in bloody throne disputes and conquests. Nadir Shah acquired the priceless stone after the Battle of Karnal in 1738. After moving to Delhi, he learned from a concubine that the inferior Mohamed Shah hid the precious «light of the mountain» in his turban. Nadir held a banquet with wine and music and offered Mohamed Shah confraternity in front of all of the guests.

It is a sign of deep connection, sincerity and infinite friendship, which is completed with the exchange of turbans. Mohamed Shah had no choice but to reciprocate the gesture of friendship and Nadir later removed the stone from the meter-long cloth. Today, the Koh-i-noor sits in the English Crown.

Greed and Poison The same Nadir Shah had a large collection of diamonds and after his death, a simple Afghan soldier came into possession of them. He moved to Bassohra where the Armenian merchant Grigori Safras wanted to purchase the gem.

Safras wanted to meet at night in the suburbs but the soldier found the idea a bit fishy and moved on to Bagdhad. He sold the stone to a Jewish merchant without knowing that Safras had followed him. Down a narrow alley the Armenian cornered the soldier and learned the name of the buyer. Safras offered the new owner twice the price, but he refused. But Safras wanted

© T & Co

© Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution

The art of diamond cutting is hard. In the New World, Tiffany was the address to go to for the finishing touch.

The luxurious way of life | 103

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

The Hope Diamond, they say, brings its owners misfortune.

© Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution

Evalyn Walsh McLean was the last private owner of the Hope Diamond. She lost three of her children, her ex-husband went to the lunatic asylum and died prematurely.

the stone so much, so he later confided in his two brothers. The Jewish merchant had to die and with him, the soldier in order to leave no trace. The corpses ended up in the Tigris but there was a dispute over the spoils. Once again, Safras showed no mercy and his brothers ended up in the river too after having their food poisoned. With the precious stone all to himself, Safras continued on to Europe, where he sold it to Count Grigory Orlov.

Blown Away Disputes over ownership can also take place in the most civilised way before a court. In South Africa a litigation occurred between Lilienfeld and DMMA. Both parties claimed that they had discovered the stone and therefore wanted it for themselves. The person who had actually found it, a Griqua named Swartboy was abducted by both parties in order to convince the court. Swartboy actually came off quite well. The «Regent» as it is known today, was found in Hyderabad by a slave. He believed that this was the ticket to his freedom and so cut a deep wound in his leg in order to conceal the stone in his flesh. Despite the valuable wound he managed to escape out to sea and confided in an English captain. The Englishman agreed to let the slave on board for half of the profit. But on deck the captain was taken over by greed and ended up murdering the optimistic slave and throwing his body overboard. The heartless captain later sold the stone but his conscience got the best of him and he hanged himself a few days later.

104 | PRESTIGE

Cautiousness is the Key When Charles II, Duke of Brunswick, fled to Paris after been driven out by a marauding mob, he took his diamonds with him. His passion for his jewels led him to build a palace in Paris, which was more for the protection of his stones than it was for his own comfort. The Duke slept in front of the safe, which had four loaded pistols inside that would shoot any intruder, with twelve loaded revolvers around him behind a door, which was secured with a secret locking mechanism. He thought it best to protect the diamonds himself. And a look at history shows that he was not far wrong.

WHERE BRUTE FORCE PREVAILS …

An unsuccessful robbery on the 7th November 2000 would have been the largest heist in history. The «Millennium Star» which was displayed in the «Millennium Dome» was the target of seven single-minded crooks. Shortly after it opened, they managed to break in with an excavator and proceeded to pound the bulletproof glass of the display case with nail guns and sledge hammers. However, the police had been on to them for a while and the criminals never made it onto their getaway boat on the Thames.

Ornament WARMING

I

This spring is enlivened by colourful trinkets w ith f loral desig ns. The playful masterpieces not only bring light into the darkness but offer a breath of spring with their vital auras. The woman of the world dispels the harsh cold of everyday life with scattered brilliance.

I II III IV V VI

BY LAURA

VI

BULGARI PASQUALE BRUNI HARRY WINSTON TIFFANY & CO. GRAFF BUCHERER

II

V III IV The luxurious way of life | 105

DRIVE STYLE All Morgans are handmade, and the bodies are made of ash wood.

106 | PRESTIGE

VERY BRITISH A Morgan lives in the past. Its shape, the material and the family factory in Malvern stand for a sports car which has only a shrug left for sumptuous furnishings.

David Renner |

Morgan Motor Company Limited

T

he Morgan Motor Company has been around since 1909 and has manufactured the car with the longest production run in the world, the Morgan 4/4.

The interior is lined with the finest leather. The fixtures have a soothing function and the seat heating makes it warm and toasty. After starting the engine almost reverently, the roar of the engine passes through your body and reminds you of the brute force of its speed. Each Morgan is a throwback to the elegance of the 30s, of gasoline, burnt rubber and its own past.

A Gust of Sentimentality The first success story was in 1909. A young engineer at the time, Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan, or HFM for short, created the 3 Wheeler in his workshop. The vehicle became a two-seater in 1910 – and was the first and only vehicle to be displayed in the window of Harrods. Until the ’30s, cyclocars were popular and widespread. The Morgans had started to break records, win races and gain popularity. The original workshop quickly became too small. As a result, the company outsourced part of its production to a premises on Picksleigh road which they acquired in 1913 and which is still in use today.

The two World Wars interrupted production but the small company managed to reposition themselves both times on the market.

The luxurious way of life | 107

DRIVE STYLE

Methuselah on Four Wheels In 1936, HFM released the Morgan 4/4, a car with four wheels and cylinders, a classic automobile with a steel chassis on an ash frame which had already come 13th place in the 1937 Le Mans with a 1098 c. c. Coventry Climax engine. In the decades after the second World War, Morgan achieved racing success and in 1962 Christopher Lawrence and Richard Sheppard-Baron won the Le Mans 2-Litre Class (GT cars 1601–2000 cm³) in a Plus Four Super Sports, whose development Lawrence was involved with. After the war, Peter Morgan, HFM’s son, who was himself a passionate race car driver, excellent engineer and designer, accelerated the development of the cars. He took over the firm in 1959 after his father’s death. With the Morgan Plus Eight, Maurice Owen developed the most famous classic car, which is powered by a Rover V8 engine which impressed Mick Jaegger among others. For PM, growth, profit maximisation and comfort were

foreign words for drivers. A Morgan was more comfortable than a motorcycle and it only had a limited circle of enthusiasts. It was built on a personal dealer network and thus the company survived the crisis of the 70’s amazingly well. The employees did well and remained in Malvern. Since 2013, Andrew Duncan, a friend of Peter Morgan, who died in 2003, has been in charge of the business.

Reminiscence About Modern Technology Nowadays, the factory on Pickersleigh road produces seven different, carefully crafted cars. And since 2009, it has been producing another threewheeler. The Methuselah is the 4/4, which with its octogenarian design impresses as an anachronism with the latest technology. The other three classics have lost just as little of their elegance. Neither the Plus 4, whose fenders and tires are wider than than the 4/4’s and which has a more powerful engine, nor the Roadster, whose Ford 3.7 Cyclone V6 engine guarantees a no-frills sports car. As a compromise between sport and city cars, the Plus 8 with its BMW 4799CC V8 is still an incorruptible statement of extravagance. Launched in 2000, the Morgan Aero 8 featured at the Geneva Motor Show.

Christopher Lawrence was involved in its development. The company’s classic design has been re-interpreted and the Aero 8 is a modern as flagship of the British sports car and its history.

The interiors are custom made.

The Aero 8 gives design a new guise.

108 | PRESTIGE

�le�ance � �

SPORTY

I II

Taste is paving the way in d iscreet reticence, and you’re in the picture. This spring, muted earth tones del iver harmon ious shapes which highl ight the offered u nderstatement. As style-conscious men, we k now that qual ity is primarily for ourselves: W hether on the

BY LAURA road or in the even ing lou nge.

X IX

III IV I CHIVAS REGAL DAVIDOFF TAG HEUER RADO SCOTCH & SODA Z ZEGNA BENCI BROTHERS GENTLEMEN’S HARDWARE IX HUBLOT X MERCEDES-BENZ C-KLASSE COUPÉ

II III IV V VI VII VIII

VIII VII

V VI

IN THE FAST LANE LEWIS HAMILTON He is already the most successful Formula 1 driver in British history and Lewis Carl Davidson Hamilton knew early on that he wanted to race for McLaren.

As a ten-year-old kart racer he came face to face with McLaren’s team boss at the time, Rod Dennis, and reportedly said: «I want to race for you!» Just three years later he appeared in McLaren’s junior programme. By 2007 he had already made the leap into Formula 1 and had impressed. He had Alonso, a two-time world champion in his team, but the rookie made it hard for him.

In Brazil it came to a neck and neck finale between the teammates and Kimi Raikkonen. After Hamilton made a driving mistake, the Finn became world champion but in the following season on the final corner, Hamilton became the youngest world champion – until Vettel undercut him in 2010. After his first world title, he received the knighthood «Member of the British Empire».

Hamilton got his driving style from Ayrton Senna, who he admired as a child, and went on to mature on the track over the following years. After six years without a title, he won the World Championship again in 2014 during his second year at Mercedes and then went on to win it in 2015.

3 QUOTES «I have been racing for twenty years and I like to think that this year is my best year as I have been learning with every year that passes by. Even when looking at 2014, I know that I made tiny steps forward – and that I am driving now to the best of my ability.

To live to the maximum of my potential!»

«My first season in Formula 1, alongside a world champion – a double world champion – and I blew him away. I beat him.

No-one’s ever come in their first year and been at the front, let alone beat a world champion, beat the mentality and the strength that he would have, and his experience in Formula 1 already up to that point.»

110 | PRESTIGE

«People say I have an aggressive style and sometimes I don’t think that is all just me. I think it’s partly because I watched Ayrton Senna when I was young and I thought: This is how I want to drive when I get the opportunity .»

«WHERE BRANDS & COMMUNITY BECOME ONE» A SUPERLATIVE WORLD NOVELTY GOES ONLINE! REGISTER FREE AND BECOME A PART OF IT.

PRESENTS

INSIDE FERRARI DESIGN

T

he Ferrari California T embodies elegance, versatility and exclusivity – properties which have characterised each California model since the 1950s properties for which Prestige magazine has stood for almost ten years. Thus, the Ferrari design team has set to work to design a Prestige Ferrari.

112 | PRESTIGE

DRIVE STYLE

Prestige meets Ferrari. The magazine is always on hand, so that designs will hold true to the layout and contents of the magazine.

In the Ferrari creative centre.

The luxurious way of life | 113

DRIVE STYLE

1

2

114 | PRESTIGE

DRIVE STYLE

3

1 | Inspiration source 275 GTB. 2 | The separate materials are coordinated.

3 | Interiors: simple & elegant.

4 | Exclusivity & sportiness combined in the body.

EDITION FOR PRESTIGE

4 The luxurious way of life | 115

DRIVE STYLE

1

2

DRIVE STYLE

CAR DREAMS THE STUFF THAT

ARE MADE OF

Spring time is also, paradoxically, cabriolet season: During these months, many new soft top innovations come to dealers.

We have selected ten of the latest models.

Stefan Lüscher, sb |

Luuk van Kaathoven, Werk

1 | Donkervoort D8 GTO

3

You can’t get more cabriolet than this: Since 1978, the Dutch small-volume manufacturer has built the most radical roadster based on the designs of Lotus Seven. The concept is always the same – detached front wheels, a long bonnet, rear-wheel drive, minimum weight and a narrow, minimalist interior furnished for two people. With the significantly larger and visually more aggressive 2013 D8 GTO, Donkervoot has now arrived in the modern age. A new release is the «Bare Naked Carbon Edition»: A 380-hp Audi TFSI five-cylinder makes the 690kg two-seater made of composites go from 0 to 100 km / h in 2.8 seconds and 0 to 200 km / h in 8.6 seconds. Its top speed is 270 km / h. www.donkervoort.com

2 | Jaguar F-Type Roadster AWD The crisp Jaguar two-seater is just as fascinating as when it debuted in 2013. Nevertheless, it did not become a bestseller straight away, which is why the manufacturers went one better at the end of 2014. They gave the series a small facelift and an optional all-wheel drive (externally recognizable by a special hood) as well as a gearbox (only with RWD). The 4x4 also comes with «Intelligent Driveline Dynamics», short IDD, electronically controlled active differential (S-models: mechanically) plus coupled stability control. We have driven an AWD with 380 hp and were pleasantly surprised: even better tracking and more fun to drive! The extra weight is hardly noticeable and fuel consumption is virtually identical. www.jaguar.com

3 | Double Charge: Lamborghini launches new roadster and Spyder models Diversification begins: Two years after the introduction of the Huracán LP 610-4 the Italian manufacturer has released the awaited open version.

Like the highly successful Gallardo (2003–2013), which was the first Lamborghini to sell for a fivefigure price, the successor comes with a soft top and the additional name Spyder. It ought to sell just as well as its predecessor. There is no shortage of power: 610 hp and 560 Nm from a 5.2 litre engine with 10 cylinders. The performance figures should correspond to those of the Coupé (0 –100km / h in 3.2 sec. Vmax 325 km /h). The new decision to have a fabric roof was based on both aesthetic and functional reasons: a retractable hardtop was out of the question because it is heavier, more expensive and out of fashion. Furthermore, any snippets of fabric that were present in the Murciélago Roadster have not been included due to lack of practicality.

The result is an electric roof that functions while driving up to 50km/h. The Huracán Spyder will be available from spring 2016. However, 500 limited edition Aventador LP 750-4 Superveloce Roadsters are being released at the end of 2015. It goes from 0 to 100 km / h in just 2.9 seconds with its two carbon roof shells – each one weighing 6 kg – which fold away into its boot leaving hardly any room for luggage. There is just about enough room for a toothbrush and some credit cards. But that is plenty, seeing as an extra 50kg of additional weight would hinder the car’s 750 hp. It has a top speed of over 350 km /h. www.lamborghini.com

The luxurious way of life | 117

DRIVE STYLE

4 | Hype from Hethel: Lotus 3-Eleven

7 | Porsche Boxster Spyder

This manufacturer doesn’t hold back with superlatives: the radically open racetrack model, based on the Exige S, is no less than the fastest and most expensive of the Lotus range. And we believe every word of it, seeing that it boasts a 456 hp, 3.5 L engine as well as weighing under 900 kg. The cockpit is protected by a small transparent wind deflector; the highest point, the 1.2-metre-tall rearwheel drive roll cage. The rear spoiler is fixed. The 290 km / h road version comes with two seats and a manual six-speed transmission. The single-seater race track model (Vmax:280) comes with a sequential transmission. Limited to 311models, the 3-Eleven will debut in April 2016. www.lotuscars.com

It is a true athlete, no doubt about it. And yet, this Porsche is often underestimated – not only by those who can’t afford a 911. To remedy this, the open mid-engine series has been upgraded similar to the closed Cayman with the GT4 and Spyder models.

The latter resembles 718 Spyder from the 1960s with the make-up of a GT4. The fact it only comes as a manual without air conditioning and a radio doesn’t harm it at all: The Spyder is the fastest Boxster to date. It can go from 0 to 100 km / h in 4.5 seconds and has a top speed of 290 km / h thanks to its strong 375 hp 3.8 litre boxer. www.porsche.com

5 | Intimate Togetherness: Smart Cabrio III For many years, the cuddly Smart Fortwo was the cheapest and most popular Swiss convertible. Now the third generation is on the way. It is based on a 2.69 metre-short vehicle (model 453) which Mercedes has developed together with Renault. Like its predecessor, it features an electrically operated fabric soft top hood, which can be folded over the small vertical boot lid. For the best possible openair feeling, the roof bars have once again been removed. It has a new three-cylinder engine with 61, 71 or 90 hp, as well as a new, smooth-transition dual-clutch gearbox. Market launch is in 2016. www.smart.com

8 | Beat it: VW Beetle Denim In 2016 Volkswagen will relaunch its Jeans Beetle as a convertible. In the 1970s there was already a model with the same name to match the times – but it did not come as a convertible. A good 40 years later another Beetle Denim has appeared, which was displayed at the last New York Auto Show and should, along with other special models, create nothing less than a new Beetle mania. The jeans variant comes exclusively as a convertible and has a dark blue soft top, which can be opened in 9.5 seconds. Fittingly, the paint colour is called «Stonewashed Blue Metallic», while the interior is decorated with striped leather / cloth seats in subtle jean tones. It features the 1.8 TSI petrol engine with 170 hp. www.volkswagen.com

6 | London, Milan, Rüsselsheim: Opel Cascada The positive way in which Opel has changed is a sight for sore eyes. And it is perfectly adapted to cruising down country roads with the whole family: The Cascada will lift your spirits at first glance and is a well-equipped four-seater. Its roof can be opened and closed in just 17 seconds while driving at speeds of up to 50 km / h. Its bodywork is especially tough and of high quality. The Cascada boasts 380 litres of boot space or 280 litres when closed.

In terms of engine technology, the front-wheel drive has been recently upgraded: The turbocharged direct injection petrol engine comes with 140, 170 or 200 hp. The 2-liter turbo diesel engine comes with either 170 hp or 195 hp. www.opel.com

118 | PRESTIGE

5

DRIVE STYLE

7 8

6

4 The luxurious way of life | 119

PACIFIC While it gets colder in Europe, the California car-season is far from over.

It gets particularly iconic after dark. |

www.timmaxeiner.com

«The art of driving a car: go as slowly as possible to win the race.»

– Emerson Fittipaldi –

DRIVE STYLE

«You can tell a man from the way he drives» – Anna Magnani –

t the end of the main street of San Pedro, where palm trees replace lampposts and it abruptly ends at the sea, Donald Galaz is living his very own automobile dream. He is sitting on a stool in front of his garage door. In his workshop old license plates hang on the walls between tools and photos of past car shows. The floor is smeared with oil like Donald’s hands. Next to his 1950 Chevy «Five Window Custom», his friends have parked their collectibles: a 1967 Chevrolet El Camino Big Block, a ’62 Chevy Impala Wagon and a 1970 Pontiac GTO. His stepfather’s old 1952 Chevy has also found a home here. But Donald’s pride is parked outside on the street – a 1941 Chevy Deluxe Special Hot Rod, which even bears its own name: «Donco», short for «Donald Company».

Cars are a Part of Culture «We’re a bunch of Mexicans who love to play with cars», says Galaz, «cars are part of our culture, we’ve grown up with them». His first car was a gift from his stepfather; Donald was 15 years old at the time. «It was a 1950 Chevy pickup truck», he recalls. Or rather: It was the remains of one on flat tires. The thing had been left in a backyard to rust. His stepfather bought the scrap heap for $ 300 and Donald laboriously restored it. «I like it when a car has to be stripped down to its frame and built completely from scratch», he says and romanticises about the moment, «when you start your engine for the first time and it rolls out of the garage on its own power». It launches itself to a certain extent. Donald’s Hot Rod, with its minimalist, raw appearance in rat grey, belongs to the sub-species of «Rat Rods». There is rust on the former chrome parts of the patina and the hood is missing altogether. It allows for a clear view of the eight-cylinder engine with dual quad carburetors.

Each air funnel is as big as a spaghetti bowl. Donald has just finished the fine tuning. «It’s set to kill», he says proudly.

The luxurious way of life | 123

DRIVE STYLE

«Citizens need to know that in our cities, a decrease in the number of cars does not lead to a decrease in the quality of life. It leads to an increase in the quality of life» – Johannes Rau –

124 | PRESTIGE

DRIVE STYLE

Whenever the 42-year-old is on the street in front of his workshop, almost every passer-by waves or honks their horn at him. «Everyone here loves to cruise to the coast and beyond», says Donald. In August, the LA-car scene meets for the «Legends Car Show by the Sea» at the nearby Point Fermin park. It is situated on top of the cliffs and on good days offers views as far as Catalina Island.

Hundreds of automotive treasures from all over Los Angeles congregate around the lighthouse.

The San-Pedro Cruise Night takes place the night before.

Many drive up and down central Pacific Avenue, others park their cars on the pavement and bring out camping chairs and coolers. Huge BBQs are set up outside the garages and workshops and long queues form at the taco trucks. The sound of the roaring engines mixes with Mexican songs, which boom from large speakers outside the Cabrillo Top Shop. Even the last dive bar is packed. People end up standing in the streets with their drinks.

Lowriders, Classic Cars and Hot Rods compete for the attention of passers-by. And in the middle is Donald in his Chevy Hot Rod. Pacific Avenue, a salty sea breeze in the north of Los Angeles, the smell of oil refineries in the south, the port cranes in the east, the hills of Palos VerdesPeninsula in the west. It features a mix of different architectural styles, wooden houses and apartment blocks from the 1940s. And of course, the characteristic Los Angeles-«shoebox» architecture. San Pedro is the waterfront of the metropolis and is Pacific Avenue’s main artery. The street scene has changed over time; half a century ago, the coastal community thrived from fishing and sardine factories in the harbor and the military base, Fort MacArthur, boosted the local economy. Back then, the large shopping centres you can see today, were still open fields. Anyone who browses the San Pedro Bay Historical Society photo archive will discover a Pacific Avenue with small independent shops. «Mom & Pop»-Stores on every corner,

The luxurious way of life | 125

DRIVE STYLE

«The secret of the car: You are within your own four walls.»

– Gerhard Uhlenbruck –

126 | PRESTIGE

DRIVE STYLE

«In the past we went where there was something beautiful to see.

Nowadays we go where there is a parking space.»

– Françoise Amoul –

shoe shops, electrical shops, women’s fashion shops, bakeries and bookstores can all be seen in the black and white photos. The photos have a special charm for car lovers. Outside the shopfronts are today’s classics: Chevys, Fords and Cadillacs parked bumper to bumper.

The fishing fleets have long been a thing of the past, the military has retreated and many of the old shops are no longer there. But San Pedro is committed to a comeback, with Pacific Avenue playing a big role. The road has retained its atmosphere and if you travel three miles south from Barton Hill to Point Fermin, you can still see many cars from that era. Hence, the car scene is making its very own personal contribution to the district.

Hot Rods - The Cheapest Way to Race

name of the car’s piston rods, but is also a slang word for gun. Hot Rods were definitely the cheapest way to race cars. Every unnecessary part was removed to save weight. And then, an oversized V8 engine was installed.

«I take Donco out on the streets so that the kids get jealous», says Donald. If they like, he’ll try to teach them the «basic skills»: «I have an opendoor policy», he says. «A young person who needs a bit of advice for their car can come in, and I’ll help them as best I can.» For Donald it is a «community service», a service to the general public: «When I hand them a tool, I hope they like it better than gangs or drugs.» His girlfriend Megan’s twoyear old son always gives him great compliments.

When Connor sees an old car, he simply says: «Donald».

It is said to be former soldiers who invented Hot Rods in the late 1940s – as a cost-effective way to arrange car races, which were mostly illegal. with cheap revamped pre-war vehicles. People still argue about the origin of its name: «Rod» is the

The luxurious way of life | 127

FASHION «The coherence of these small important details has transformed style into a science and fashion expertise into a question of power.»

– Ulf Poschardt –

RIE Accessories play an enormous part in fashion and true fashionistas will carefully select the right one for each style.

Yvonne Beck

You are not a lady without your hat» was the successful milliner’s slogan. It was therefore understandable why women would keep their hats on when in company or the theatre. And in the 50s, handbags also had to match the colour and style of your gloves and footwear. The ultimate was a Hermès handbag with a leather strap clasp. The American actress Grace Kelly used to wear one and made the «Kelly Bag» the epitome of highest distinction. The High Society showed up with travel bags and other fine leather goods from Gucci or Louis Vuitton. For women who could not afford such exclusive items, bags made of imitation leather or crocheted bags made of bast with metal brackets and clasps were fashionable. In the USA, the first transparent plastic bags caused a sensation. The bags were very extravagant. They were produced by famous brands such as Llewellyn and Rialto and came in various shapes and were made of hardened coloured plastic – often combined with metal.

Women also wore gloves in summer that were white or nylon. Evening gloves were made of the finest glacé leather and the longer they

were, the shorter the sleeves, while a mink stole warmed their bare shoulders. The shoes in fashion, pumps with round toes and thick block heels were replaced in 1955 / 56 by the stiletto heel, which made walking seem much more delicate. Haute couture demanded extravagant footwear: Charles Jourdan and Roger Vivier, who worked for the House of Dior, delivered it. By contrast, athletic young girls demonstrated their independence by wearing flat ballerinas. This was complimented with a small neckerchief.

The only constant in the world of fashion is constant change.

Although there are always new styles and trends, over the years the accessory has transformed from a purely functional object into an aesthetic form of expression. Particular emphasis is placed on the four major accessories: shoe, hat, bag and jewellery. Hence, a woman’s dream partner is not called Harry or Tom, but handbag and / or shoes.

The handbag in particular appeals to the female sex. Even in the Stone Age, women wore small leather bags for collecting edibles, while the

The luxurious way of life | 129

Beautiful Sparkle

men swung their clubs. However, handbags only became a true fashion accessory around the year 1790. In the 18th century, pompadours or reticules were in fashion. A reticule was a bag sewn mostly from silk without a solid base which could be closed with two cords, which then served as a handle or shoulder strap. The small bag was for ladies of high society to store small everyday objects that were necessary to have at all times, such as a handkerchief and smelling salts or powders. About 50 years later, the metal frame was «invented», which meant the handbag significantly differed from its pouch-shaped predecessors and gained a greater practical and fashionable significance. The first durable handbags with handles, which could be taken when travelling, were made of leather. They looked more like a small suitcases and had latches. By the end of the 19th century, the handbag had finally become a fashion accessory for women.

❦ Did you know …?

– Women spend 76 days of their lives searching for things in their purses.

– Margaret Thatcher used to snap her purse shut in order to intimidate opponents. She described her bag as the «only safe place in Downing Street».

– Italians are the biggest «bag fetishists». On average, Italian women own between 20 and 60 bags.

130 | PRESTIGE

But it was not only the handbag that triumphantly entered the Mount Olympus of fashion accessories.

Costume jewellery also showed up sparkling at its side. A sparkling necklace, a glittering gold ring, a diamond-studded bracelet – whoever has all of that has to be filthy rich, right? No! Because the beautiful appearance of jewellery can often be deceptive!

Thank God for costume jewellery! Because costume jewellery can look so incredibly convincing that only experts can distinguish it from real gems.

The history of fashion jewellery began with the invention of the rhinestone by George Friedrich Strass. The Alsatian goldsmith devoted his life to studying gemstone imitations. By adding bismuth and thallium he improved the way imitations sparkled. He enhanced their colour by adding metallic salts to them. By lining them in metal foil he considerably increased the gems’ luminosity. As a result of his success, he was given the title of «King’s Jeweller». In 1730 he invented «diamonds» made of glass, which became popular and sought after all around the world. This was a no brainer, seeing as they were so much cheaper than real diamonds yet sparkled just as beautiful in the candlelight. But jewellery makers did not only develop a substitute for real diamonds. They also discovered a gold imitation, which consists of a mixture of zinc and copper.

The pioneer of costume jewellery was none other than Coco Chanel. They adorned their models with meter-long faux pearl necklaces. Every woman should be able to afford jewellery with their own money!

To date, costume jewellery is more than just cheap knock-offs! Costume jewellery has its own variety and can act on current fashions even quicker! That makes it very popular in the fashion world!

VII

Blaze OF COLOUR The jungle of the metropolis will be colourful!

A little piece of paradise relaxes the outfit and brings to mind the tropics. Hand-painted fabrics, colored crocodile leather and feathered earrings enhance every glance.

Less patterned accessories shine in daylight like the

BY LAURA azure Mediterranean skies.

VIII VI

V IV

I II III IV V VI VII VIII

PRADA FABRIC FRONTLINE MIU MIU NAVYBOOT PARMIGIANI FLEURIER LOUIS VUITTON BULGARI HERMÈS

II

I

III The luxurious way of life | 131

FASHION

Verschiedene Qualitäten.

132 | PRESTIGE

FASHION

THE

FASHION CLASSICS

The Panama hat is unquestionably the king of the straw hats and the most stylish summer companion. The straw is the colour of ivory and shimmers under the burning sun. The hats of the true maestros are thinner and lighter than a sheet of paper and the wickerwork is barely visible to the naked eye.

David Renner |

D

espite its name, the Panama hat comes from Ecuador and is by far the best ever handmade hat to date. Connoisseurs call it the Montecristi or Jipijapa, according to its cities of origin, or the Toquilla, according to the hats worn

by Spanish conquistadors whose straw came from the Toquilla palm. The Toquilla was imported through Panama, which led to the confusion of names, which Theodore Roosevelt set in stone with his Montecristi, which he always carried with him during his visit to the Panama Canal.

The Panama hat found its way into the European fashion world with the 1855 World Expo in Paris.

The dealer Phillipe Raimondi who was selling the hats from Ecuador had them practically ripped out of his hands. The fabric made from straw, the name of the fine material, created such enthusiasm that even Napoleon III was sent a Montecristi. The newfound luxuries quickly found a home in the major fashion capitals and were stocked by the hatters Gibus, Gelot and Motsch in Paris and Herbert Johnson in London. Berlin and Rome soon followed with the new trend. The «Montecristi superfino», the name given to a hat of the highest quality, has graced the heads of those who can afford one, such as kings and counts, as well as actors, writers and fashion connoisseurs. Since the 19 th century a simple, black fabric hatband has been the most elegant

The Hattitude

decoration of the hat. Those who want to push the boat out choose the cloth in dark blue, cameo or coarse ribbed silk.

Weaving Masterpieces The «natural Toquilla» is carefully crafted by the hatters in the metropolises. It is delicately designed, heated and finally crowned with a hatband on both the inner and outer sides in order to keep its form. They come in all sorts of shapes: as a Borsalino from Italy or as Stetson from the USA, as Planter or Colonial for travel and the timeless Fedora. The masters of Montecristi weave the hats at dawn in the morning and in the twilight of the evening so that the sun does not dry out the delicate straw. After they have woven the rosette while seated, they then bend far over the three-legged stool on which the hat is now woven. With their long, skilled fingers they weave knot upon knot, and row upon row. The finer the straw, the finer the knots, the tighter and more evenly spread the rows, the more perfect and more expensive the hat. The masters can take up to 8 months to weave a superfino, the best of the best. But today, the old Maestros talk of the hats of yesteryear which were woven even more closer together and were even more beautiful. The craft of creating Montecristis is gradually dying out, as it is a strenuous and barely profitable trade for weavers. Furthermore, the younger generations, like everywhere else, are trying their luck in the cities.

The luxurious way of life | 133

FORGOTTEN FASHION LEGEND CHARLES JAMES He was an artist and a creative genius whose form of expression was working with fabrics, and who went on to influence many designers. His creations are often compared to those of Balenciaga, who once wrote that Charles James was the «best and only fashion designer in the world who transformed fashion into a pure art form».

Obsessed with his art, James created about 1000 items, of which his evening dresses brought him lasting fame. From the very beginning of his career as a couturier, James was fascinated with the idea of mass-produced clothing.

But being the perfectionist he was, only the best was good enough for him and he found the cost-saving techniques and the inevitable loss in quality and sophistication of his original designs all too hard to accept.

But James was, among many things, a visionary. He was one of the first people who put zips on dresses and, together with Schiaparelli, one of the first to use zips for decorative purposes. In addition, he used unorthodox materials such as baize (the felt used to cover pool tables) and for more than three decades, he continuously designed newer versions of his «ribbon dress», a skirt which consists of an infinite plethora of tapered strips. James was a style-defining couturier of the forties and fifties. His only shortcoming: he worked in the USA and at the time, people were still drawn to trendy impulses from Europe. He never had the opportunity to transform his name into a label and died, a poor man, in 1978 in New York’s Chelsea Hotel.

3 QUOTES «James was a complicated person, who loved creating myths about himself.»

– Jan Reeder –

«James was an artist whose medium was fashion.»

– Harold Koda –

«Mr James is madly in love with cut.»

– Mainbocher –

134 | PRESTIGE

Evening

BY LAURA

GLOW

Spring does not mean that you have to hide.

Step out confidently and stimulate your energies.

The strong red stands out from the crowd and enjoys the superiority of the contrast. Gold jewelery gives the outfit the necessary emphasis and round sunglasses protects you from being blinded.

VI I V

I II III IV V VI

MICHAEL KORS LONGCHAMP YVES SAINT LAURENT VERSACE MEISTER HUGO BOSS

II IV III The luxurious way of life | 135

FASHION

BESPOKE TAILORING IN

SAVILE

ROW

Savile Row, the «golden mile of tailoring», home of the perfect tailored suit, is not even 300 metres long. To this day, the Row is the epitome of couture, whose Palladian façade was transformed with the influx of tailors in the first half of the 19th century.

David Renner Christopher Simon Sykes

136 | PRESTIGE

FASHION

«

Bespoke» is a promise, where your measurements are taken, where you choose your cloth and decide on a cut. It is the promise to return again and again, to make alterations little by little. It is the promise of quality; that masters are at work sewing each stitch and each seam by hand. Masters of trousers, of jackets, of buttons. Since 2004 savilerowbespoke has been the label for this promise on Savile Row, which continues to honour this tradition.

From Street to Fashion Tradition is deeply rooted in English fashion. In 1846 Henry Poole was the first tailor to move into the Row. However, it was the home of English fashion

even earlier. Until he fled to France in 1816, Beau Brummel, the first dandy, was a guest of Lord George Cavendish at number 1 Savile Row. Brummell, whose taste in fashion was keenly observed by all of London, dressed conspicuously inconspicuously. His minimalistic, masculine elegance is the godfather of English fashion’s identity. More tailors moved into the Row and transformed the Palladian buildings to suit their needs. And as the façade opened to fashion, fashion on Savile Row opened itself up to new forms. The bowler hat was created by James Lock & Co in 1850 for William Coke; it was supposed to protect his gamekeepers from falling pheasants and poachers. The tuxedo was originally tailored in 1860 as a dinner jacket for Edward, Prince of Wales, and later Edward VII. James Potter of Tuxedo Park ordered one and wore it to the Tuxedo Park Club. Savile Row tailors never forget. Be it their own history or their clientele, which reads like a who’s who of history, or even old invoices. This is how a hat for Oscar Wilde, which he received in 1895, was finally paid for 100 years after his death.

On the Row, there is a master for everything. Training takes between 3 and 5 years.

The luxurious way of life | 137

FASHION

Bold Colours, Perfect Design However, tradition does not restrict itself to the classic, muted style of understatement anymore.

In 1969, Edward Sexton along with Tommy Nutter opened «Nutters of Savile Row» at number 35a.

Together they tailored colourful, flamboyant suits which reflected the spirit of the times. The brash colours, sweeping lapels, bell-bottomed trousers and eccentric shapes delighted not only Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr and Mick Jagger but also Rupert Murdock and Kerry Pecker. The two tailors at Nutters presented themselves as expressively and confidently as their garments, with an open display from Simon Doonan situated behind a large pane of glass. More and more middle-class names find themselves amongst the classic clientele of aristocrats in their order books.

of the three to purchase a shop on Savile Row. With a budget of £10,000 and a shop that was as small as a fitting room, he sold ready-to-wear suits, ties and overalls. As a designer and not a tailor, he caused concern on the street, although as we have seen, he was very successful. Shortly after, London became a metropolis for trendy fashion with Savile Row as its prime address.

Richard James now has the largest shop on the Row and has devoted himself to savilerowbespoke.

Nowadays, fashion designers face new challenges. The tailors are fiercely defending the character of their street. In a joint effort they prevented an Abercrombie & Fitch children’s store from opening at number 3 Savile Row in 2012. Even though ready-made fashion is being sold, they do not want any fashion chains amongst their ranks. In addition, rents are also increasing on the Row and with them, concern about the future. In order to promote themselves on the international market, tailors have been taking part in exhibitions and organising fashion shows since 2007. Since 2006, Ozwald Boateng has had his own TV-show in which he champions the London suit. The Row is well dressed for the future.

«New Bespoke Movement» After fashion’s first wake-up-call, it took until the mid-90s for Timothy Everest and Ozwald Boateng (who both learned the art of tailoring at Nutter) and Richard James to launch the «New Bespoke Movement». They wanted to combine craftsmanship with modern design on Savile Row and not simply retreat into their shops. James was the first

SAVILE ROW BESPOKE The label «savilerowbespoke» is dedicated to the tradition of bespoke. The 16 members, who have their businesses on or around the Row, have to comply with the high tailoring standards.

A suit must therefore be produced with at least 50 hours of manual work, the pattern must be developed individually by a master tailor, the business must employ an apprentice at all times, there must be a fabric expert on the business premises, and so on and so forth. That such a suit is expensive is obvious.

After the measurements are taken, the cutting patterns are worked out.

138 | PRESTIGE

DID YOU KNOW …?

New York Fashion Week

The Tie The tie was invented by the Croatian hussars and was named accordingly, à la croates. The scarf, which was looped around the neck, appealed to both men and women alike and complemented the colourful costumes worn under Louis XIII. During the French Revolution, the colour of a person’s tie was an indicator of their political views; white signalled nobility whereas more colourful ties were worn by revolutionaries. The Saint Hilaire textbook for ties from 1827 mentions 32 different styles of knot. Today there are as many as 85 knots.

The «New York Fashion Week» takes place every February and September.

It is part of the «Big Four» fashion weeks, along with London, Paris and Milan. It started in 1943 as «Press Week» for American fashion and was held in the Pierre and Plaza hotels.

It was covered by Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar who were incredibly impressed with it. Until then, American fashion had only received minor recognition and stood in the shadows of French designers. But as France was occupied

by Germany, French models were inaccessible to the rest of the world. As a result, US fashion started to triumph.

Jeans During the California Gold Rush, thousands of people turned to digging up earth in order to make their fortune. There was a clear need for durable clothing. The tailor Jacob David came up with the idea of reinforcing seams with rivets, but he had no money. He approached a merchant by the name of Levi Strauss and together they filed a patent application. The trousers were sewn from cloth from Nimes and wool from Genoa. «Serge de Nîmes» from «Gênes», or plain denim jeans.

Ready-to-Wear Fashion Ready-to-wear is the name given to clothing which is not tailored to fit individual customers. In contrast to haute couture, ready-to-wear clothing comes in standard sizes. As a result, it is much more affordable. However, unlike haute couture, it does mean that the garment loses its exclusivity.

The luxurious way of life | 139

140 | PRESTIGE

TEN BEAUTY CLASSICS

THE

There are some beauty products that are simply indispensable.

Prestige has selected ten cosmetics that are absolutely worthy of being called ÂŤclassicsÂť.

Steffi Hidber

BEAUTY

3

2

1 | CRÈME DE LA MER Launch Year: 1995

1

The story of how this product was created is almost legendary: When the astrophysicist Max Huber decided to treat his skin himself after suffering an accident in his laboratory, he did not know that the cream he created would go on to be regarded as one of the best – and most luxurious facial treatments in the world. The heart of this rich cream, which is always bottled by hand, is the so-called «Miracle Broth». Its key ingredient is fermented sea kelp. It took more than 6000 experiments to perfect the process which resulted in a «visible transformation» of the skin’s appearance. Good marketing and consistent placement in the luxury market has also added to the number of loyal followers who swear by its velvety effects – and apply it almost religiously. For best results, warm it up for a few seconds between your fingertips until it becomes transparent and then apply it.

2 | LAURA MERCIER TINTED MOISTURIZER SPF 20 Launch Year: 1998 There won’t be many customers who, after reading for the tenth time in a magazine how amazing this tinted day care is, did not go and purchase one of the rather inconspicuous tubes for themselves. And the vast majority of newcomers will still remain faithful to it, even after the invention of BB Cream!

Laura Mercier’s tinted moisturizer still regularly wins awards due to its unique light texture with just the right level of cover. It was developed by the French make-up artist after she wanted an embellished but not too pasty complexion for her models, which would leave their skin still visible. For years, this successful day care has also contained a sun protection factor of 20, making it the perfect everyday companion.

3 | GUERLAIN MÉTÉORITES Launch Year: 1987 «Glow» was one of the big buzzwords of Beauty World 2015. But the trick in having a radiant complexion has long been known … thanks to «Météorites»

by Guerlain. At the end of the 80s the outdated beauty Label caused a sensation with the release of a completely new product: Delicately shimmering,

142 | PRESTIGE

BEAUTY

6

4

loose powder in various flattering skin shades was compressed into small pellets, which were then mixed and applied with a thick, soft brush. It gave skin complexion a whole new glow. The unique packaging which came in a collectible tin and was re-designed each year, made Météorites a perennial favourite of the beauty world, which has experienced another boom as a result of the «strobing» craze.

4 | KIEHL’S CRÈME DE CORPS Launch Year: 1970 For more than 40 years, the ultra-rich body lotion «Crème de Corps» has been one of the absolute best-selling products of the New York pharmacy brand Kiehl’s. Although loyal fans of the traditional company were concerned about the much more commercial orientation of the brand following its sale to L’Oréal (in 2000), it has remained remarkably faithful despite tremendous growth: Simple skincare products with the best ingredients from science and nature. Beta carotene gives the cream its typical yellowish colour, but the luxurious, almost, «buttery» feel comes from an exclusive cocktail of various vegetable oils – including cocoa and shea butter, sesame, olive and avocado oil, which quite rightly justifies the high price. Despite this, fans are constantly buying the half-litre versions which comes in a pump bottle.

5 | YSL TOUCHE ECLAT Launch Year: 1992 The concealer for covering blemishes and shadows: These have been around for ages. But what

5

7

Yves Saint Laurent did in 1992 was tantamount to a quantum leap in terms of make-up – because this little pen with its fresh fillable brush was the first highlighter of its kind, which could do much more than just conceal dark circles. Interestingly enough, a woman who is just as famous was responsible for this coup: Terry de Gunzberg, one of the most famous make-up artists in France who now has her own beauty label that has been working closely with Yves Saint Laurent for 15 years, was responsible for the «revolutionary» formula in Touche Éclat. The fact that the product has not changed at all in appearance or in texture is a sign of its success: Worldwide a Touche Éclat is sold every ten seconds.

6 | ESTÉE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR Launch Year: 1982 It is not only the world’s most successful repair serum, but also the first! The herb-scented skin care cream has been one of the bestsellers of beauty giant Estee Lauder for over 30 years. It has more than 25 patents worldwide and is constantly enhanced according to the latest scientific findings. However, how it works has remained the same: it repairs the cells overnight (when they are most active) while a powerful combination of antioxidants neutralises free radicals and provides a high dose of hyaluronic acid for moisture. The fact that the serum is for all skin types and ages - and may also be combined with any facial treatment - has contributed to its success.

7 | NARS ORGASM BLUSH Launch Year: 1999 Stylist and photographer François Nars has probably made more women happy with this little pot than any other man – and not just because of the products risqué name! «Orgasm», a peachy blusher with golden shimmer pigments was launched just before the turn of the millennium but then suddenly became a hype product two years later after countless make-up artists and beauty editors raved about it. The winner of countless beauty prizes is sold in the US alone twice every minute – and, according to NARS, the total weight of «Orgasm» sold annually roughly works out to a Lamborghini Diablo.

The luxurious way of life | 143

BEAUTY

10

9

8

8 | REVLON SUPER LUSTROUS LIPSTICK IN «FIRE & ICE» Launch Year: 1952 Granted, with its iconic «Super Lustrous» lipstick, Revlon has a great home field advantage, as for over 70 years it has been the most successful lipstick in the world with 82 different colours. Among its best-selling shades is number 720, the pink red «Fire & Ice», which for over fifty years has belonged to the range without interruption and – depending on the fashion and era – was more popular in the 1950s and less popular in 1970s. The colour has caused divides in the online community, as it can appear almost orange depending on the complexion. But for those who find the deep blue-red (also a classic) «Ruby Woo» lipstick from MAC too bold, this classic is a charming must have with its lovely retrodiem touch.

9 | OPI NAIL LACQUER IN MALAGA WINE Launch Year: 1989 Few Beauty brands were able to take advantage of the major economic crisis in 2008 as much as the Los Angeles-based brand OPI («Oh-Pii-Ei»): In difficult times, women tend to treat themselves to «smaller fashion luxuries», such as striking nail polish instead of an expensive designer handbag.

144 | PRESTIGE

The OPI co-founder and current Brand Ambassador Suzi Weiss-Fischmann already created the biggest bestseller in the company’s 25 year history with the very first 30-shade colour collection. She continues to surprise herself even today – the flattering, deep red tone has hundreds of fans all around the world who are not only tempted by the product’s charming name.

10 | NUXE HUILE PRODIGIEUSE HUILE SÈCHE MULTI-FONCTIONS Launch Year: 1991 It’s easier to ask what you can’t use the velvety French care oil for: Huile Prodigieuse is by far the number 1 care oil in France – every minute ten bottles are sold worldwide – and thanks to the oil boom in the beauty sector, the product is experiencing a brilliant revival. The dry oil consists of six valuable vegetable oils (macadamia, hazelnut, borage, sweet almond, camellia and amber). It nourishes, repairs and makes both skin and hair supple. Because of its very soothing, but non-greasy formulation and the unmistakable joyful scent, it has also turned into somewhat of a cult product outside of France – and does not contain preservatives, silicone, mineral oil or dye; it contains 97.8 % natural ingredients. In line with the times or what?

BEAUTY

1 | The exciting fragrance for the modern Muse

1

Like the other two Modern Muse fragrances from the house Lauder, the new Modern Muse Le Rouge is also based on the duality of dynamism and softness. The chord of seductive rose and sensual cream leaves two very different impressions from the first spray of the fragrance. An exciting fragrance combination for women who inspire others with their selfimage, glamour and elegance. For those who like to take centre stage and live their lives.

2 | The reinterpretation of a scent The Hermès perfume classics stand for the history and the message of the house. And so since 2013 attention has been devoted to increasing the perfume classics. Playing with reinterpretation, Jean-Claude Ellena confides that presently his interpretation of the «Amazon» is a focal point.

The mythical character of the original perfume corresponds to a free, emancipated woman whose focus is on achieving absolute freedom. He agrees perfectly with the zeitgeist of the 70s, that period in which the perfume was created.

The gallopping horse sets the pace of today’s story. It is the story of a new Amazon. She is absolutely modern, bold, powerful and unmistakably feminine, just like the heroine of a video game or comic book. Jean-Claude Ellena has opened this young and futuristic fantasy world and sees this woman as engaging, perky and iridescent. In brief: A colourful, lively and cheerful perfume.

3 | Glamorous Indulgence & spontaneous luxury Marc Jacobs Decadence is an invitation to pamper yourself.

A statement on expressive styling, luxurious workmanship and revolutionary fragrance design, inspired by one of the most iconic bags from Marc’s collection. Decadence lifts the unconventional spirit of the Marc Jacobs fragrance collection into a whole new dimension of luxury. The luxurious and sensual woody fragrance fascinates with its sexy top notes of Italian plum, golden saffron and velvety iris. The heart of this sensual fragrance is a bouquet of opulent Bulgarian rose, which merges with lush iris root and creamy Jasmine. Passionate liquid amber and warm papyrus wood unite in the base note to create a signature which exudes sophistication and luxurious pleasure.

2

3

The luxurious way of life | 145

BEAUTY

Luxurious gift for wine lovers In the year of the 100th birthday of Grange-inventor Max Schubert, the top Australian winery Penfolds created an exceptional gift. In honour of the grand vintner and in time for Christmas, a casket with one of the most celebrated Grange vintages will be on the market: a magnum of the Grange 2010 (99 Robert Parker points) packed in a valuable box. A sought-after collector’s item for true wine enthusiasts. The Penfolds Grange Magnum Edition 10 will be available as a luxury gift in a very special design. This bottle is in itself an anniversary edition, since 2010 was the 60th consecutive year that the Grange was bottled (every year since 1951). A magnificent detail here is the «Timeline» function. Opening the box demonstrates the development of each Grange vintage since the first Grange 1951 to the 60th year of 2010. For the first time, these luxury wooden caskets offer wine collectors the opportunity to create their own label with a custom message. This special feature will be in all Grange gift boxes. www.penfolds.com

SENSES

«

»

We always make the same mistake: We invest our emotions, rather than giving them away.

– Werner Schneyder –

A jet-black comedy about youthful idealism and the battle of the sexes

Purity Jonathan Franzen 4 MP3-CDs 1157 minutes runtime

146 | PRESTIGE

The young Pip Tyler does not know who her father is. This is not her only problem: She has student debt, her office in Oakland is a dead end, she loves a married man and her mother suffocated her with love and secrecy. When one day she is offered an internship with the whistleblower Andreas Wolf, she hopes that he can help her find her father. She offers her mother a choice: Either reveal the secret of her birth or Pip sets out for Bolivia, where Andreas Wolf carries out his work revealing secrets. And a little later she leaves … Once again damaged family relationships play a dominant role in Franzen’s new novel. In this brilliant American-German social novel by one of the greatest writers of our time, the action comes thick and fast, and hooks the reader or the listener, to the very end.

Aromatic fragrance tassel Maître du Parfum is featured in each room for a pleasant and refined fragrance. The fragrance tassels can be placed both on the door handle or in the closet, in the car or in your purse. The tassels, enriched with essential oils, are available in three unique fragrances: Tao (White Lotus and Yi Yi Ren), Savage Garden (vetiver and nutmeg sage) and Holy Basil (basil and ginger). Even Cleopatra was known to seduce Julius Caesar with their fragrances … why not try your luck sometime. www.rituals.com

The best actresses From the beginning of the Oscars in 1929 until today, one of the most important categories is the «Best Actress». This exhibition is a tribute to the 73 actresses who, in nearly nine decades of Oscars® history have been awarded the coveted trophy for «Best Actress». Among the winners are such diverse actresses as Katharine Hepburn, Luise Rainer, Kate Winslet, Ingrid Bergman, Halle Berry, Liza Minnelli and Meryl Streep. They have marked international film history and are style icons of their time.

Original costumes and designs, film props, photographs, posters and audiovisual installations provide insights into fashion and zeitgeist, stardom and media hype of the 1930s until today.

BEST ACTRESS Oscars ®. Rolls. Pictures until 1st May 2016 German Cinematheque – Museum für Film und Fernsehen, Berlin www.deutsche-kinemathek.de

Rediscovered pleasures One of the most popular designs is the famous Tiffany key ring in sterling silver with the ball-closing horseshoe and the tag with the words «Please Return to Tiffany & Co. New York», which came on the market in 1969. In 1997, the Return to Tiffany ™ motif was expanded to a jewellery collection. Now there are 29 new designs in this legendary, world-famous Return to Tiffany™ collection: bracelets and belts, earrings and necklaces in sterling silver, 18 carat yellow gold and Rubedo®, some with diamonds. And everyone who has ever lost something valuable or connected with many memories knows how beautiful the feeling is to get it back. www.tiffany.com

The luxurious way of life | 147

BEAUTY

GYM

BEAUTY TRAINING

It is hailed as a non-invasive alternative to Botox and facelifts. But does facial gymnastics actually help to banish wrinkles and signs of fatigue?

Steffi Hidber

148 | PRESTIGE

BEAUTY

T

he frightening statistics have been long known: The older you get, the faster the skin’s collagen breaks down.

Life, UV rays and pollution all contribute to the first signs of skin aging, which can become visible as early as in your 30s. But between expensive anti-aging creams and the tightening, wrinkle-reducing interventions is the good old do-it-yourself method to looking younger: Namely through targeted training of the 43 individual muscles in the face.

The 63-year-old founder of «Face Gym», Jennifer Wade, also relies on muscle power to beautify. Her gentle facial workout is said to «make you appear five to ten years younger» and smoothen out existing wrinkles with just five minutes of exercise each day. The dance teacher recommends doing the exercises in front of a mirror and training each muscle individually – and that is all there is to it. Switzerland also has its own facial workout guru: Benita Cantieni is the former editor in chief of Vogue and Anna Belle and also has a fitness company. Her «CANTIENICA®» method can also be used on the face («Faceforming») and – in addition to the cosmetic effect – is said to ease cases of chronic tension headaches and other symptoms.

Beautifully Trained The British face yoga expert Danielle Collins explains the effect of such a «fitness program» as follows: «These exercises activate the hypodermis, the dermis or the epidermis. Getting these ‹layers› to work properly improves blood circulation and increases the oxygen and nutrient supply to cells».

The result is a clear, healthy complexion with a beautiful «glow» – which can also be much better at absorbing moisture.

FACE GYM: Beauty insiders have sworn by it for a long time … but does this facial muscle training really work?

A brief history of beauty training, exercise suggestions and addresses.

The luxurious way of life | 149

BEAUTY

Assisted Training Those who prefer to train under professional guidance – including their faces – can do so by booking a workout at the Spa Junkie Face Gym at Selfridges in London: From a 30-minute «Signature Workout» to «Jet Lag Cure» or the luxurious «Hollywood Lunchtime Lift» with radio frequency, ultrasound and a collagen booster. You can be promised visible results in a luxurious setting.

Whether yoga, specific exercises or specialised fitness techniques: face training is simple, you can do it anywhere and it’s free. This is surely an incentive to try out this anti-aging cure for yourself! The grimaces and contortions that result in younger, firmer skin are worth doing regularly. All that is required is ten minutes of peace in the day where you can complete these facial workouts behind closed doors. Here are some exercises for beginners and advanced DIY anti-agers:

BOOK TIPS «Entfaltung – Gesichtstraining für strahlendes Aussehen mit Soforteffekt» with DVD

by Tanja Kuntze Koha Verlag.

«Faceforming mit Tigerfeeling für sie und ihn»

by Benita Cantieni Südwest Verlag.

«The 5-Minute Facial Workout»

by Catherine Pez Robert Rose Verlag

For a Beautiful Mouth: Hide the lips by pulling them over the teeth and then make an «O» shape with your mouth. Make a wide smile without showing your teeth. Repeat six times.

Tighten Your Neck: grit your teeth while pulling your lower lip down firmly. You should almost be able to feel the tension in your upper chest. Hold for ten seconds and then release.

Smoothen the Forehead: Place the fingertips of both hands in the center of the forehead, so that they touch. Massage outwards ten times with small, circular movements. Then gently brush outwards ten times.

Alleviate Eye Wrinkles: Open your eyes as wide as possible. Then look upwards until you feel a slight pull on the upper eye area. Hold for five seconds.

Then look to the left and right, holding for five seconds each time. Relax and repeat five times.

YOUTUBE-CLIPS «Understanding Face Yoga» with Ranjana Khan an 8-minute clip on YouTube «Face Gym»-Clips with Asha Bach Anni 30 2-minute clips on YouTube «Face Yoga – 6 Exercizes To Do at Home» with Danielle Collins a 6-minute clip on YouTube

150 | PRESTIGE

VIII

Spring

RADIANCE

Fresh glowing complexion, thick hair and supple skin help keep the icy weather at bay.

Bring the sun with you, and wrap yourself in the tropics. With a floral scent and velvet lips you can transform any room into a spring dream.

VII

I BULGARI

BY LAURA

I

«GOLDEA EAU DE PARFUM»

This miniature work of art gives the impression of looking into the depths of a gold drop. It is a floral-oriental fragrance.

II GUER L A IN

BASE»

«L’OR MAKE- UP

Sparkling with 24-carat gold for a radiant, in-

III DIOR «DIORIFIC MATROUGE COULEUR VELOURS» A powdery finish gives extraordinarily velvety lips. IV CHANEL tense, fresh complexion.

«LES 4 OMBRES SIGNE PARTICULAR»

This

exclusive creation guarantees mysterious, mesmerising eyes.

V HELENA RUBINSTEIN «LASH

QUEEN PERFECT BLACKS»

VI V

For perfect volume

and clear definition. VI PHILIP B «W H I T E TRUFFLE SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER» Absolute moisturising luxury haircare with Italian white truffle.

VII ARGAN

CREAM»

«1001 NIGHTS BODY

Especially rich care with pure argan oil is

available in two fragrances.

ROLF

VIII VIKTOR &

«FLOWERBOMB»

An opulent, floral

II

bouquet; a secret weapon of seduction.

III IV

THE MIRACLE ELIXIR FROM THE DESERT

ALOE VERA Beauty of the Nile Even the Egyptian queen Cleopatra knew of the miraculous effects of aloe vera gel and had two of the most powerful men in the world, Caesar and Mark Antony, wrapped around her finger with her legendary beauty.

BEAUTY

It is fleshy and prickly, but it is not a cactus. It favours sandy and dry conditions, but it is not lifeless. It contains bitter resin, but it is not toxic. It is neither rose nor orchid and gold particles do not sparkle on its slightly dusty-looking leaves.

The desert lily with the melodious name Aloe Vera (true aloe), is both a miracle cure and remedy. A true healer of beauty. She is the queen of medicinal plants.

Helena Ugrenovic

The doctor helps, but nature heals», said Hippocrates (460 – 370 A. D.) the most famous doctor in ancient times and founder of medicine as a science. In the jungle of pots and pans, pills and powders and the increasingly adventurous names of pain-minimising and beauty-maximising drugs, thousandyear-old herbs, plants and essences – the native inhabitants of planet earth – are still trendier and more effective than many of the chemically sophisticated pharmaceuticals of today.

Royal Medicine Cabinet With over 200 active ingredients in its biochemical composition and the best ever healing properties, Aloe Vera dwarfs all other medicinal plants. Besides a true source of minerals and trace elements such as calcium, potassium, magnesium, iron, manganese, selenium and sodium, it contains a high proportion of various amino acids such as the amino acid lysine vital and also vitamins A, C and E: essential materials for our immune system and its strengthening. Aloe vera gel helps against insect bites, sunburn, relieves stomach problems and acne and heals cuts or harmless burns.

Give me Your Gel The active ingredients are found inside the leaves nestled in a gelatinous mass, which mainly consists of water. This is also where the main extract is contained, polysaccharide acemannan. It is a sugar and a vital carbohydrate for human beings. The human body only pro-

duces acemannan until puberty, which is incorporated into the cell membranes and protects against bacteria, viruses and fungi. After puberty we get acemannan from food. The benefits of aloe vera are readily available without any processing but the plant must be between 3–4 years old and have at least 12 leaves. Of the 300 different varieties of desert lily aloe vera barbadensis miller is most abundant in valuable ingredients and properties.

The all-rounder can be used both internally and externally. The gel can be extracted from the rinds of the leaves and their chlorophyll, which contain the yellowish resin aloin. In the cosmetics sector, the gel is used primarily for face creams, beauty masks, shampoos or hair tonics. When the plant is carefully pressed, the juice can be extracted, which is an invigorating, stimulating and complementary food supplement.

Mirror Mirror on the Wall …

The natural aging process cannot be stopped, but it can be slowed down and the skin kept supple. Aloe vera contains valuable regenerative substances that penetrate deep into the skin, activate cell regeneration and cell growth, making the skin revitalize quicker which delays the formation of wrinkles. Some of the ingredients contain antiinflammatory properties, giving skin an even complexion. Aloe vera gel also pulls the pores together, tightens the skin and gives it more vigour. When used in combination with other plant extracts, it successfully helps combat annoying cellulite.

The luxurious way of life | 153

LIVING The Royal Opera House in Copenhagen, Denmark.

THE MASTER OF LIGHT

LARSEN Like most architects who do well for themselves, he naturally has an opera house in his portfolio. Perhaps not as well-known as the legendary opera house in Sydney, which he helped construct, but no less spectacular.

Lone K. Halvorsen |

Henning Larsen Architects

The towering glass faรงade with its impressive light and colour designs in the foyer of the Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik, Iceland.

LIVING

Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik, Iceland.

W

e’re talking about Henning Larsen – one of the longest-serving, Danish architects. For 50 years he has combined beauty with functionality. He was called the «master of light» and became one of the most successful Danish architects. In June 2013 Henning Larsen died in Copenhagen aged 87. The Director of the School of Architecture at the «Royal Danish Academy», Lene Dammand Lund, said in an interview, «Denmark has lost not only an internationally recognized architect, but an inspiration and a mentor to many generations of Danish architects».

An Opera House with Complications Henning Larsen worked on numerous cultural buildings. Germany has him to thank for the Würth art gallery in Schwäbisch Hall (2001). He gained international recognition through the construction of the Copenhagen Opera House (2004). This opera house was in many regards problematic for Henning Larsen. He had the tricky task of designing a world-famous opera house, which would go on to attract attention for centuries with its acoustics and architecture. The architect was unhappy over the course of the project, since the construction work was «bodged» by the man who funded everything, billionaire Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller. More and more charming comparisons were made – and in exceptional cases not only by the media but also the professional sector. Both the roof and the glass front of the Opera House were disputed over.

The uncompromising contractor, Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller, added 40cm-wide steel strips across Larsen’s transparent facade. This completely ruined Larsen’s idea of letting light shine through the spherical auditorium like a piece of amber. In an interview on the subject he said: «We made a compromise which failed. And this makes me sad». If the Little Mermaid on the other side of the harbour could turn around, she would see the most expensive «gift» to Danish history: The structure cost 335 million euros. But time is the healer of wounds and the Opera House has made a huge impression with its unique location in front of the royal family and with its clear glass, limestone and metal contours. Even after Henning Larsen’s death his office, «Henning Larsen Architects» continues to plan and develop cultural buildings. The office is currently planning an opera house in China which will be the centrepiece of a new cultural district near the metropolis of Hangzhou. In addition to the Opera House, the project includes a theatre, two museums, an art school and retail space. Situated in the middle of an artificial lake, the opera

The luxurious way of life | 157

LIVING

house will certainly stand out in its free and playful design not only because of the musical performances.

The Last Prize The international breakthrough came for the architect, who was born in 1925 in Opsund, West Jutland and educated in London and Copenhagen, when he designed the Foreign Ministry in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia in 1979. In this monumental building, he creates a brilliant synergy between European and Islamic architectural traditions. Even then he demonstrated that his central theme would be playing with light.

© Thomas Mÿlvig

Throughout his life he led a creative agency that saw great international success. A year before his death, he received the «Praemium Imperial», which is regarded as the Japanese «Nobel Prize for the

Arts» and in the category for architecture competed for the Pritzker Prize. For the Harpa concert hall in Reykjavik he was awarded the «Mies van der Rohe Award» in 2013. The facade of the concert hall was created in collaboration with the Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. Eliasson designed the spectacular facade and, as so often seen in his work, he combined the beauty of nature with the technically refined. The individual elements of the glass facade are reminiscent of the cross-section of basalt. The building merges with its surroundings through its reflections and questions its static nature. The chairman of the «Mies van der Rohe Award» jury, Weil Arets, expressed his enthusiasm at the awards: «Harpa has captured the myth of a nation – Iceland – that has consciously acted in favour of a hybrid-cultural building during the middle of the ongoing Great Recession. The iconic and transparent porous «quasi brick» appears as an ever-changing play of coloured light, promoting a dialogue between the city of Reykjavik and the building’s interior life. By giving an identity to a society long known for its sagas, through an interdisciplinary collaboration between Henning Larsen Architects and artist Olafur Eliasson, this project is an important message to the world and to the Icelandic people, fulfilling their long expected dream.» And with these words, Henning Larsen received his last prize.

© Thomas Mÿlvig

The Wave in Vejle, Denmark.

158 | PRESTIGE

Tradition meets Innovation

Suter Global Communication

Zbären Kreativküchen AG Bahnhofstrasse 26 . CH-3777 Saanenmöser . Telephone +41 33 744 33 77 design@zbaeren.ch . www.zbaeren.ch New: Showroom Bern, Gerechtigkeitsgasse 29, CH-3011 Bern, Telephone +41 031 311 18 80 Official Dealer

Saanenmöser . Gstaad . Lenk . Bern

Official Dealer

3

2

5 4 160 | PRESTIGE

1 CHRISTOFLE – MOOD With MOOD, the famous French silverware producer Christofle has combined two hundred years of tradition with an ultra modern design, bringing a touch of understated luxury to the kitchen and the beautifully laid table. The 24-piece cutlery set has its home in a highly polished, streamlined «egg» made of stainless steel. The cutlery set includes six table knives, six table forks, six spoons and six teaspoons. www.christofle.com

2 CANAL GRANDE The Canal Grande bath is inspired by the historic washing areas made of stone or concrete, where women would wash clothes in a washtub with a wooden board.

Thanks to its regular shape, its modest design and its short length the Canal Grande is ideal for smaller bathrooms. Its distinctive feature is the wide surface which resembles a shelf and offers space along both of its sides. www.agapedesign.it

3 SCENERY

1

Scenery, the new vase collection by Rosenthal, captures a dialogue between light and shape, colour and shade. The bottle-shaped vases are fascinating with their skilful, two tone colour patterns in orange-green or blue-green and their hand-rolled metallic shiny ribbons. With their modern colour patterns, these vases are a great decorative accessory with or without flower arrangements. www.rosenthal.de

4 LOEWE REFERENCE The Reference 85 «Made in Germany» by premium television manufacturer Loewe, offers the highest quality home theatre experience. The large format TV is characterised by brilliant sound, sharp Ultra HD picture and a timeless design. Its high-quality, aluminium frame, the anti-reflective filter and perfectly crafted surfaces are all evidence of a premium product. www.loewe.tv

5 THONET FOR CHRISTMAS If you are still looking for ideas for gifts and there is only ten days left until Christmas...Thonet is here to help! To avoid making the most peaceful time of the year stressful, Thonet offers a wide range of products that are available for fast delivery. Even for last-minute shoppers. This is thanks to shorter delivery times for the most popular products. Simply order from either a Thonet-dealer or the online shop to get stylish gifts under the Christmas tree in time. www.thonet.de

6 NORDIC FLOWER Flowery wool carpet for cold days – it is so simple and fascinating, just like the nature of the northern plateau: a flat, tightly woven ivory wool-viscose with coloured cotton yarn. A sea of yarn, delicate flowers provides the necessary contrast with fresh accents. The result – a playful carpet with organic feel and its very own dynamics. www.kymo.de

6 The luxurious way of life | 161

LIVING

NAME Michael Thonet BORN AND DIED *2nd July 1796 in Boppard, Germany † 3rd March 1871 in Vienna, Austria DESIGN CHAIR NR. 14: 1859 / 60 PRODUCTION 1865 to present MANUFACTURER Gebrüder Thonet, Vienna MATERIAL bent beechwood

«Nothing has ever been created that is more elegant and better in conception and more precise in execution and practicability» – Le Corbusier –

162 | PRESTIGE

LIVING

DESIGN CLASSICS

NO.14 Master carpenter Michael Thonet is considered a pioneer in the metamorphosis of the chair from a handmade unique item to an industrially mass-produced piece of furniture.

D

uring the World Exhibition in Paris in 1867, a miracle occurred: Michael Thonet’s No. 14 chair plunged 57 metres from the Eiffel Tower and remained intact. The chair’s robustness – proven not only by this incident – in combination with its elegant, simple design and the revolutionary possibility of mass production significantly contributed to its unparalleled success.

The story of the No. 14 chair did not begin with the Eiffel Tower but a few years earlier. The Austrian House, Court and State Chancellor Klemens Prince von Metternich became aware of Michael Thonet’s experiments with bent wood and brought him to Vienna in 1842. The young man from the Rhineland moved to Vienna and for the first few years worked for the furniture manufacturers Clemens List and Carl Leistler before starting his own carpenter’s business with his sons in 1849.

Although Thonet is not regarded as the inventor of bentwood, he perfected the process through years of experiments. He spent the first few years in

Lone K. Halvorsen

Vienna further refining and improving the bentwood process. He achieved his breakthrough by subjecting long pieces of wood to steam and pressure thus making them malleable and then bending them with a special machine into a desired shape.

The No.14 chair – today no. 214 – is the most successful result of the bentwood process.

The icon quickly became a symbol of Viennese coffeehouse culture. However, it was not just the simple appearance of the bent wood that was critical to its success. For the first time ever, the innovative manufacturing process made the industrial mass production of a chair possible – a real milestone in furniture production. The No. 14 could be produced by specialised labour and could be completely broken down into six individual components. 36 chairs can be packed into a one cubic metre box and sent all over the world. The history of modern furniture has taken its course.

By 1930, Thonet had already sold 50 million No. 14s and is still considered today the most famous chair in the world.

You can immediately tell a real 214. The company’s logo is branded on the underside of the seat frame – both on the historical and contemporary models.

The luxurious way of life | 163

PZ04, PZ05, PZ06, PZ07, PZ08, PZ09

VIPP DAYBED Since 1939 Vipp has been producing functional pedal bins. But after 75 years of garbage swallowing the time has come to relax. The newest member of the family, the Vipp daybed, offers a way to relax during the day. Intended for those wishing to have a lie down, the Vipp daybed is equipped with a mattress made of one hundred per cent aniline leather which is supported by a sturdy aluminium frame. Aniline leather is made from the finest unprocessed rawhides and gives the daybed a soft surface with a natural leather texture.

The salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and sugar containers have an important place in the Alessi catalogue. Over the years, many designers have worked on these items and have created some bestsellers. Peter Zumthor, an internationally acclaimed architect, launched an unprecedented interpretation of this category of household items after a long and diligent development phase. It is based on the natural shapes of crystals, stalactites and stalagmites. To mimic the natural formations of the minerals, he uses materials such as crystal glass for the containers and silver fine cast steel for the covers. www.alessi.com

www.vipp.com

EM77 Reverse The colours of the iconic EM77 vacuum jug bug Stelton have been turned on their heads. With a matte black finish and a gloss lid, Erik Magnussen has raised the bar once again in terms of elegance and exclusivity. The jug's patented tilt latch allows you to operate it with just one hand. For the perfect look, serve your coffee with the matching elegant cream pot and sugar bowl. www.stelton.com

Lumiere 25th In 1990, when the lighting manufacturer Foscarini was still making a name for itself in the world of contemporary design, they released a lamp that was made of blown glass. The company worked with designer Rodolfo Dordoni on the lamp’s design, which is a reinterpretation of the classic lampshade. Lumiere was born and quickly became a world best seller. For its 25th anniversary, a special edition of the Lumiere has been released, which skilfully draws attention to its uniqueness and impressive design. www.foscarini.com

164 | PRESTIGE

THE ARCHITECT DUO HERZOG & DE MEURON

© Forgemind ArchiMedia

Jacques Herzog (born 1950) and Pierre de Meuron (born 1950) have known each other since their childhood in Basel. After completing their studies at the ETH Zurich, they opened an architect’s office in their hometown in 1978 and it was from here, on the banks of the Rhine that they started to shape the world. Today Herzog & de Meuron is a well-known, successful and popular company. The clear structure of their designs surprises in its detail as a prism for the environment, matter and functionality. Seemingly sluggish buildings are transformed into a subtle game of fundamentals, such as their early signal tower for the train station in Basel. The concrete core of the building is covered with copper which catches the light and makes it vibrate with the passing trains. After their international breakthrough with the development of the «Bankside Power Station» for the Tate Modern, they dedicated themselves to both large and small projects. They have often cooperated with artists such as with Ai Weiwei, for the construction of the Bird’s Nest for the Olympic Games in Beijing. They build private houses, blocks of flats, highrise buildings, stadiums and museums. They devote more and more attention to space and volume, which is reflected in their newer buildings. Both are visiting professors at Harvard and the ETH in Zurich.

3 QUOTES «We try to find our architectural designs the same way a detective finds evidence at a crime scene and a scientist finds a system in nature.

It’s all there, it just takes a great effort to piece it all together.»

«Architecture is the extension of the architect’s body into a new, projected manifestation. It is a kind of reproduction, an impression, or rather an expression of the architect’s sensory experiences..»

«A desire to learn, has always been one of our motivations.

And we have always learnt thanks to new collaborations which brought us further in our work. We always sought dialogue, from the very beginning. Originally, the dialogue only took place between ourselves, Herzog and de Meuron. Later, we sought it from others, especially artists.»

The luxurious way of life | 165

LIVING

«I knew straight away that I wanted to photograph forgotten relics of Europe’s recent history. Exploring the hidden side of these places is for me a bit like modern archaeology, which, through the artist’s impression, can inspire peoples’ imaginations.»

– David de Rueda –

This abandoned radar station is located in the Italian mountains. After a nearly three-hour walk through snow that was 50 cm deep, we reached the huge, frozen antennas.

With full moon, the clear sky and the snow everywhere: The atmosphere seemed unreal. I wanted to create something post-apocalyptic in the middle of nowhere.

166 | PRESTIGE

LIVING

PRESENTS

EUROPE’S

ABANDONED

PLACES

Photographer David de Rueda has toured some Europe’s historical relics and has managed to capture the mysterious beauty of these forgotten places.

Lilly Steffen |

PHOTOPRESS | Nikon | David de Rueda

H

e travelled to nine different countries with his camera with a clear focus on the former Soviet Union. He travelled from Paris to Milan, Kiev and Chernobyl; to Russia, Estonia, and Bulgaria; and Iceland, Kazakhstan and Cyprus. The result is a unique series of photographs.

During his extraordinary journey, David de Rueda focused his attention on the Cold War era. He experienced some highlights: In an abandoned warehouse a few hundred kilometres out in the Kazakhstan desert, he first photographed two prototypes of the Soviet space shuttle Buran. In southwest Iceland, he photographed an old wreck of a Douglas DC-3 airplane, which shimmered in the Northern Lights. He explored Chernobyl and the local ghost town of Pripyat with his Nikon D810. He took his shots from the tallest building he could find. He photographed the ruins of the hospital in Pripyat and even managed to photograph the interior of one of the nuclear power plant’s cooling towers. Photographer and director David de Rueda ventures to remote locations with his camera. In his photos he has the ability to capture and visualise the aesthetics of these locations and their abandoned buildings.

As a result, he has been able to take his urban exploration photography to a new level.

David de Rueda photographed these places as part of Nikon’s «Project Spotlight».

The luxurious way of life | 167

LIVING

This picture was taken in a disused power station near Moscow, which was heavily guarded by half a dozen dogs. After some persuasion the guard let us in. As the sun was setting, I only had a few minutes to find the perfect view point. A bird which flew overhead by chance made the scene seem even more poetic.

168 | PRESTIGE

LIVING

The luxurious way of life | 169

LIVING

This image shows the interior of the abandoned power station near Budapest, Hungary. Its size is impressive. There were abandoned machines everywhere and a strong, haunting atmosphere. I felt like I was in a science fiction movie and wanted to create my own world with these photographs.

An anonymous room in a former hospital in Pripyat – one of the first buildings in Pripyat that I explored. The furnace seemed to have exploded from the centre and destroyed everything in its surroundings.

170 | PRESTIGE

LIVING

Our last day in Pripyat.

Before that wondered for three days, how I could capture the famous Ferris wheel from a new, original perspective. Fortunately, my wish for snow came true. This completely changed Pripyat from the ground up. From a roof next to the Ferris wheel, I could finally take the photo I had been looking for.

The luxurious way of life | 171

LIVING

172 | PRESTIGE

LIVING

Linnahall is a former concert hall in Tallinn, Estonia. With an exposure time of two minutes I could capture the architecture of the building which is otherwise shrouded in complete darkness. The central focus gives the picture its power because it directs the eye into the centre of the image.

To me, it almost looks like a spaceship.

The luxurious way of life | 173

DESIGNING A DIFFERENCE When Marcel Duchamp opened art to design, it caused a snowball effect and the works of Gaetano Pesce (born 1939) became (no less than) an avalanche. The son of a Venetian and a Florentine, he studied architecture in the tradition of «bel disegno» in Venice but had already founded the «Gruppo N» in Padua. The young artists explored the possibilities of kinetic and programmatic art. Still a young student at the time, Pesce opened his own office for interior design in 1961. In his hands, pure functionality in architecture and design implode like a supernova. His works leave the conveyor belt and live through stigmas and become political. Gaetano Pesce understands the past but sets his gaze towards the future. He transformed new materials into an Iconoclasm in the skyline and living room. His chair UP5 (or UP6), shaped like the archaic fertility statues of antiquity, cast in foam with a chained, spherical footstool depicts the oppression of women. Success collides with the experimental. He has taught in Strasbourg, New York, Hong Kong and Milan. He has lived in London, Helsinki and Paris and since 1980, New York. He continues to tear down the walls between art, design and industry. His buildings, furniture and drawings, surprise, entertain and make you wonder.

«I am sure we can give people their lost individuality through design. That is also super-important politically speaking, because you push people to be very conscious of what they are – they are different. Democracy is something that we don’t understand very well yet. Most people think democracy equals equality. It’s not true. Democracy is the protection of difference.»

– Gaetano Pesce, Media 10 –

«Marcel Duchamps was more important than Picasso.

Picasso was still stuck in the romantic period.

But Duchamp understood that the romantic era was over.» – Gaetano Pesce –

3 QUOTES

«I strive to seek new materials that fit into the logic of construction, while performing services appropriate to real needs. Architecture of the recent past has mostly produced cold, anonymous, monolithic, antiseptic, standardized results that are uninspiring.

I have tried to communicate feelings of surprise, discovery, optimism, stimulation and originality.»

– Gaetano Pesce –

174 | PRESTIGE

© courtesy of B&B Italia

© courtesy of B&B Italia

GAETANO PESCE

DID YOU KNOW …?

The End of Free Falling There have been skyscrapers as far back as in ancient Rome.

Made from brick and wood, they stood up to 30 metres tall.

However, in modern times, it was only with the invention of the automatic elevator brake that buildings could reach the clouds. Elisha Graves Otis demonstrated his impressive invention at the 1854 New York World's Fair. To the horror of the audience he let an elevator rope snap, however no catastrophe occurred. And with a call of «All safe, gentlemen!», the buildings could grow.

Like Selling Ice to the Eskimos Dubai is built on sand. But because the desert sand is too round, too even and too smoothed by the wind to mix to make concrete, the desert city imported vast quantities of the tiny grains. In Australia alone, 1700 companies are supplying the United Arab Emirates, and over 3500 the Arabian peninsula. The Burj Khalifa, the tallest tower in the world, consists of 257,000 cubic meters of sand.

The Craziest Buildings in the World Earth houses, UFO-like museums, futuristic restaurants – there are no limits to architects’ imaginations.

For sometime, extravagant buildings have become places of pilgrimage for architecture enthusiasts. For fans of creative architecture, there is the website www.strangebuildings.com – a real goldmine. It is a type of virtual guide to the world’s architectural peculiarities.

The Modern Underground Map Nowadays, it is no problem finding your way around a foreign city with public transportation. We have Harry Beck to thank for this, a technical draftsman, who, in addition to his normal work, came up with the idea to base the London Tube map on a circuit in 1931.

Before this, you had to orientate yourself by using geographical features and the maps were somewhat confusing.

Beck did not receive a great amount of money for it even though this new layout was imitated around the world.

CULINARIUM

RECOGNISED AS WORLD HERITAGE SITE BY UNESCO

176 | PRESTIGE

© CIVC – Alain Cornu

«Brothers, come quickly.

I am drinking stars!»

Dr. Thomas Hauer

I

t is likely that Dom Pérignon, patron saint of arguably the most prestigious Champagne cuvée, who is still often praised beyond historical fact as the creator of the noblest of all sparkling wines, never actually said the above quote. This is because the noble brewery had long discovered fizz before they appointed the Benedictine monk in 1668 to cellerman of the Abbey of Saint Hautvillers, situated between Reims and Epernay. Still, champagne has become a cult. And so the image of the monk with the first ever bottle of champagne in his hands, surrounded by his brothers in a cellar lit only by torches, is more an expression of a deeply rooted desire for a creation myth – be it about the cosmos or popping corks.

UNESCO World Heritage Site In any case, 350 years after its birth in the chalk cellars of Champagne, the epitome of luxury beverages has finally earned the rank of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. More specifically, the «Coteaux, Maisons et Caves de Champagne». It refers to the historic wine regions around Hautvillers, Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and the Saint-Nicaise in Reims, the historic champagne houses, the famous Avenue du Champagne in Epernay and a series of cellars that span approximately 250 kilometres underground.

However, the AOC, i.e. the area within which sparkling wines may be produced and marketed under the champagne label is considerably larger than the area classified by UNESCO. It comprises some 34,000 hectares of vineyards, 320 towns and no less than five Departements, namely Marne, Aube, Aisne, Haute-Marne and Seine-et-Marne. The best wines come from the world famous Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards of Montaigne de Reims, des Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs or Côte de Bar. Hence, place names such as Aÿ, Ambonnay, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize or Bouzy – identical to the Cru vineyards – are music to the ears of any true champagne fan.

An estimated 1.5 billion bottles of champagne currently waiting for connoisseurs in the region’s cellars.

The «Invention» of Champagne Although the tradition of wine growing goes as far back as Roman times, champagne as we know it today has a relatively short history. Although Reims became an important trading centre in the Middle Ages due to its convenient location, only about 130 kilometres north east of Paris, the noncarbonated and mostly red Vin de Champagne or Vin de Reims had almost nothing in common with champagne as we know it today. Nevertheless, the wines of the region were very popular. The fact that French kings were crowned in the local Notre Dame Cathedral, or its predecessor, gave the local wine a royal touch from the outset. As a result, it had become very popular in the courts during the 15th and 16th centuries – not just in Paris, but in London as well. We owe the actual «invention» of champagne to chance. In the 17th century, merchants started to partially fill bottles with wine, which was exclusively shipped in barrels, before they were transported. Due to the comparatively harsh climatic conditions in the Champagne region, the alcoholic fermentation often stopped before the sweetest grape had completely fermented.

During spring, the wild yeasts in the bottle would become active again as a result of the rising temperatures. This gave rise to what we refer to today as méthode champenoise. The bubbles which formed during the second fermentation were trapped in the bottle and, if you were lucky, provided a pleasant tingling sensation on the tongue once opened. Voilà! Champagne was born.

Less lucky champagne pioneers would have the contents of the bottles shoot out everywhere often with a loud bang. This is where the rather unflattering epithet for champagne originated: vin du diable – devil’s wine. When one bottle exploded, it would often result in a chain reaction causing all of the poor winemaker’s delicious treasures to blow up in his face. Chronographers have reported that for some years, up to 80 per cent of all champagne production ended up this way. It was

The luxurious way of life | 177

CULINARIUM

© Michel Jolyot – Association Paysages du Champagne

The Marne Valley in Aÿ with its world famous Grand Cru on the horizon.

INFOS Information on vinitourism deals in Epernay, Reims and their surroundings: www.ot-epernay.fr and www.reims-tourisme.comInformation about medieval Provins: www.provins.net

only in the mid-19th century, with the scientific description of the alcoholic fermentation process by Louis Pasteur, that winemakers were able to bring the process under control. Had the clientele across the Channel not loved the sparkling wine from the start – Great Britain is one of the major importers of champagne – the fizzy elixir would have met an early end, as the bubbles were originally considered an unwanted production error.

Bottled Business Cards This is where the bustling Dom Pérignon and his friend Jean Oudart, cellarman of the Saint-Pierre aux Monts de Châlons Abbey, finally came into play and transformed the art of winemaking, which was still in its infant stage. The two monks discovered that it was not only the bubbles that increased the quality of the wine from the region but also the deliberate blending of wines of different layers and grape varieties. They also learned that white wine could be made with red grapes. This method is known today as assemblage.

To make a simple champagne, 4 to 6 wines from the Grande Marques are partially blended with more than 300 different base wines of different terroirs, years and grape varieties to make a harmonious cuvée which bears the typical mark of a champagne house or winemaker. Hence, most Brut wines are a sort of bottled business card.

178 | PRESTIGE

CULINARIUM

Shortly before disgorging, the champagne bottles are tilted gently, thus undesirable sediment and suspended matter accumulate in the bottleneck.

lived and traded here more than 750 years ago. It is around this time that the wines of the region were first mentioned in documents. Once a year, Provins is now the scene of the largest medieval spectacle in France. But now it’s finally time to advance into the centre of Champagne.

© Fulvio Roiter

The Heart of Champagne

But enough of the theory. In celebration of the UNESCO classification, wine leaders in the region gathered in early October in the Champagne strongholds of Reims and Epernay to celebrate this historic event. We begin our tour de Champagne just outside of the current boundaries of the region, namely in one of the UNESCO World Heritage towns called Provins. However, during the Middle Ages, it was actually under the protection of the Counts of Champagne. In the 12th and 13th centuries, one of the most important markets took place several times a year, attracting merchants from all over Europe. We can be sure that at this market in France’s third largest town at the time (after Paris and Rouen), wine from Champagne was traded – or even consumed – along with wool, furs, spices and precious fabrics. Even today the perfectly preserved medieval town centre, which is surrounded on several sides by a monumental city wall, gives a vivid impression of how people

To first provide us with a bird’s-eye view, let us start having taken off from the grass runway of the Aérodrome de Plivot, a small airfield just outside of Epernay, in a single-engine Robin Major, flying through the royal blue autumn sky. In the cockpit is Gilles Marguet, a pilot in his free time, he works as an oenologist at the winemaker cooperative in the Grand Cru-village of Mensil-sur Oger and claims to know every vineyard that passes underneath us like the back of his hand. Marguet takes us in circles over the smooth rolling hills of Montaigne de Reims and the Vallée de la Marne. Below us, a river lazily snakes through the densely forested hills, topped with vineyards while the powerful autumn sun bathes the landscape in liquid gold. This is the heart of Champagne. Passing the famous windmill, the landmark of the Mumm champagne house, we continue towards Reims with is distinctive cathedral, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then we made a sharp left turn over the hilltops towards Hautvillers before we headed back towards Epernay. Back on the ground we set off to the centre of the Champagne capital, Epernay.

More specifically, the legendary Avenue de Champagne, where some of the most famous champagne houses in the world are situated, like pearls on a string, such as Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët or Pol Roger. In total, there are around 30 producers, each with their own magnificent buildings. 10 to 20 metres beneath the avenue span more than 110 kilometres of cellars. The longest belongs to the industry leader Moët and is 28 kilometres, closely followed by the Mercier cellar which is 25 kilometres. In this underground labyrinth more than 200 million bottles of champagne are kept at a constant humidity and a temperature of 10º–12º.

The following day we took the bus en vignes to the Moët cellars which opened again to the public at the beginning of October after a year of renovation. This unique opportunity offers champagne enthusiasts the chance to travel around Epernay in a luxurious vehicle, which is even equipped with its own kitchen, and to see the most beautiful views and fascinating producers in the region. Always on board: An Ambassadeur du Champagne, who offers tastings at the various stops on the tour. But it gets even more exclusive: On-board we enjoyed a full meal. While we were enjoying the panoramic views of the vineyards of Champillon down to Epernay through the glass front, our mobile chef, Eric, tempted our palates with juicy snails, nettles à la crème, cod with wakame or avocado ice cream. Meanwhile, our champagne expert Geoffrey Orban informed us of the subtle differences in taste of a selection of wines which came from different terroirs. Our favourite: a 100 % Pinot Meunier champagne – the third grape approved for champagne production after Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – which was aged 50 % in an oak barrel. The bouquet is an intense roasted hazelnut and caramel! Cornalyne, as it is called, is produced by a cooperative in Passy-Grigny, which markets its champagne under the label Dom Caudron. Here you can get a good deal for 30 euros but you can expect to pay between two to three times as

The luxurious way of life | 179

CULINARIUM

© Juergen Rohrscheid

© Civa – Claude et Francoise Huyghens Danrigal

Base wines for champagne Cüvée are vinified separately according to location. Wooden casks are in recent years once again in fashion here.

Historic labels tell a lot about the eventful history of the luxury elixir.

much at the larger champagne houses thanks to elaborate marketing campaigns. Only a stone’s throw from Champillon is the small village of Hautvillers – home of Dom Pérignon. When visiting the old abbey church, we lit a candle for the Benedictine monk as a sign of thanks for his services to the world’s champagne connoisseurs – an act of honour!

The social highlight and conclusion of our tour was an evening gala at the festively lit Palace du Tau. The former residence of the Archbishop next to the Cathedral of Reims was the place for luxurious banquets and feasts after the Kings’ coronation ceremonies for centuries. Hence, it was the ideal place to host the illustrious champagne gala.

And that night we commoners felt like kings as we had the opportunity to enjoy a first-class dinner, accompanied by exceptional champagnes in the historic vaulted cellars. Our favourites: an excellent Blanc des Noir Verzenay from the Mumm house that perfectly complemented the tender chicken breast in Truffeljus and the Grand Cru Rose Louis de Sacy, which turned out to be the perfect companion to a strawberry champagne soup with almond biscuits.

180 | PRESTIGE

Wedding Cake-Sytle Chateau By the way: If you ever travel to Reims, be sure to visit the Champagne Pommery. Situated under the wedding cake-style chateau are perhaps the most beautiful vaulted passages in the whole of Champagne. Unlike in Epernay, Champagne houses in Reims could rely in part on so-called crayéres, ancient underground limestone quarries whose history dates back to Roman times. Many of the underground galleries at Pommery, which span approximately 18 kilometres in total, are therefore more reminiscent of the insides of cathedrals than disdainful maturing cellars. Santé!

CHAMPAGNE

SPARKLING BEVERAGES The popular Prestige champagne Krug is seen among many experts as the best champagne producer and Krug Grande Cuvée is the heart of the Maison Krug. Since 1843, Krug Grande Cuvée has embodied what Joseph Krug, founder of the Maison Krug, strove to offer his customers: breathtaking champagne that – regardless of the Year – combines power and finesse. Over twenty years are needed in order to create a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée. The fine wines are produced from the assemblage of 120 wines from over six different vintages. www.krug.com

A new Prestige Cuvée A new Prestige Cuvée is now joining the exclusive Moët & Chandon champagnes – the MCIII. MCIII is a brand new chapter in the history of Moët & Chandon.

It is the ultimate expression and the synthesis of the Savoir-Faire of the Maison who have perfected the art of winemaking over more than 270 years, from Moët Impérial through the Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage up to Moët Ice Impérial. For the first time Moët & Chandon has assembled a champagne from vintage wines that have matured in the three main environments: metal, wood and glass. As the quintessence of the different ways that wine can mature, for the MCIII fine vintage wines were chosen, which were matured in stainless steel tanks and in oak barrels, and these were combined with more mature vintage champagnes from glass bottles. With the combination of the different qualities of wine resulting from the specific environment, Moët & Chandon has developed a champagne with the perfect balance of harmony and complexity. www.moet.com

Collectible Laurent-Perrier sold its popular Rosé Champagne as a limited edition in a special gift packaging: a golden-pink shimmering mesh. The gracefully curved bottle can be recognised only dimly. Liberated from the mysterious envelope she presents her undying elegance. The Cuvée Rosé has a nose and palate seduced by a bouquet of red berries and black cherry. Lovers of rosé Champagne who do not wish to dispose of the packaging itself, can use it as a lantern or for storage of small treasures. www.laurent-perrier.com

182 | PRESTIGE

Champagne for mixing Thanks to a higher degree of taste and a special compilation, Veuve Clicquot Rich makes it possible to create your own champagne drink and to experiment with new taste sensations.

The signature of the wine can be intensified by carefully selected ingredients: for example, Pineapple, grapefruit, cucumber, celery, pepper, basil or tea. Always best enjoyed with ice.

Discover the mixologist, or better yet the Clicquotlogist in you! www.veuve-clicquot.com

The Tsar’s bubbly pleasure At the request of the Russian Tsar Alexander II, the 1876 Cuvée Cristal was created exclusively for him. The world’s first «prestige cuvée» was born. From the grapes of the very best land of Louis Roederer, a wine was developed of outstanding quality. The transparent crystal bottle made the Cuvée of the Tsars unique and instantly recognisable. The tsar feared assassination, so the bottom of the bottle was flat to leave no space for explosives. In 1908, his grandson Nicholas II bestowed the honour upon the house of nominating it as ’official purveyor for his Majesty, the Emperor of Russia’. Since that time, Cristal has proudly worn the coat of arms of the Tsar. Now, the 2007 vintage is available: Gold colour with a light orange hint and warm hues. Perfect bubbles, fine, regular and dynamic.

Classic, an equally elegant and discreet bouquet. This wine is just waiting to unfold its expression. www.louis-roederer.com

So Bubbly With its So Bubbly limited edition, the champagne house Moët & Chandon has once again shown the way, and is letting the energy and bustling Christmas and New Year mood shine through stylishly. In this year’s collection the famous Moët Impérial Brut is appearing in another dress, depending on the occasion: classic and tingling in the 75 cl bottle, something covered in the Bubbly Box, refreshingly cool in the bucket or in the Bubbly Bath, easy to transport thanks to the Bubbly Bags, as a couple in the Bubbly Twinset and imposing in the 3 litter Jeroboam bottle. The «Bubbles» embody in a wonderful way the Esprit, the solemnity, the savoir-faire and the pioneering spirit of Moët & Chandon. Their sparkling radiates the happiness of Christmas and decorates each table with golden glitz and glamour. www.moet.com

The luxurious way of life | 183

CULINARY CURIOSITIES Casu Marzu

© Shardan

This stuff is sold on the quiet. Casu Marzu, a sheep milk cheese which packs a punch. This hard cheese is stored for a long time, a very long time. Under the Sardinian sun, cheese-flies lay their larvae in the cheese and the maggots once hatched, eat their way into and through the loaf. Their digestive system changes the consistency and flavour of the cheese. It turns it soft and gives it a strong and spicy flavour. The maggots are also eaten if they do no not fly away in time.

Thousand-Year-Old Eggs Their beauty is unsettling. And even though the name suggests it, you don’t have to wait a thousand years. For Song Hua Dan, duck eggs are placed in a mixture of tea, salt, ashes, charcoal and lime and are set aside to ferment for three months. There are many variations, but the result is always the same. The egg white glows an amber black and the yolk turns green. Depending on the mixture of powders used, the yolk can be hard or even gelatinous. The semi-solid yolk has a pleasant, mild flavour without the bitter taste of lemon and doesn’t leave an aftertaste. Pidan with hard yolks have a slightly pungent, slightly salty flavour and a lingering aftertaste.

Insects In many places in Europe, eating insects is eyed suspiciously. In Mexico, large grasshoppers are fried and garnished with a little salt, some cayenne pepper and a drizzle of lemon. This crunchy delicacy is available as a snack between meals in many areas. In the Congo, red ants are considered a health-promoting delicacy. But first, they have to be caught.

They are lured into baskets and infused with the smoke of burning herbs. They then end up in the frying pan and are used to garnish vegetables. Or how about a scorpion on a stick, which can be bought at Beijing food stalls? The shells and the stings are not consumed.

184 | PRESTIGE

Funazushi Sushi comes to mind when you think of fish and rice in Japan.

At Lake Biwa, Shiga Perfecture, Funazushi still exists, which is a type of fish delicacy made from crucian carp. Fresh fish are gutted (leaving the gills and eggs intact), filled with salt and stored for a year in a barrel. They are then placed in rice, which ferments.

The rice is changed each year and after four years, the Funazushi is ready. This sour delicacy is either eaten in thin slices or is used as an exclusive ingredient.

© Qaswed

Hákarl

Snake Schnapps In Southeast Asia, snake venom is mixed with rice wine to give the drinker good health and potency. The reptile venom is denatured and its «essence» passes into the liquid. The venom of poisonous snakes such as cobras and kratises is often accompanied by that of smaller snakes and scorpions. Herbs are often added too. The mixture is either consumed straight or is refined through the humours of a snake. The latter is freshly prepared and consumed straight away. Strangely enough, a new species of snake was discovered by staff at the Cologne Zoo in one of these schnapps bottles in 1999, the three-horned pit viper.

© Kida Yasuo

It is a slow shark which dives up to 1000 metres deep in the polar seas of the arctic and becomes old and large.

The Greenland shark is processed in Iceland to make Hákarl and is considered a delicacy. The fish is gutted, cleaned, cut, and the meat is then buried in gravel pits and left to ferment.

In the depths of the gravel pits the shark's urea turns into ammonia which later evaporates in dry huts. It is edible after four months. The brown crust is removed and underneath it is white meat which is salty and rubbery. It is often eaten with a shot of the local spirit, Brennvín.

CULINARIUM

CULINARIUM

«MAKE IT NICE!»

DANIEL

HUMM

© Francesco Tonelli

Yvonne Beck

Foto: Francesco Tonelli

At 38 years old, Daniel Humm has achieved everything there is to achieve as a chef. His restaurant in New York is one of the best in the world. It has been awarded three Michelin stars.

The luxurious way of life | 187

© Francesco Tonelli

CULINARIUM

D

aniel Humm was born in 1976 in Strengelbach, Aargau. At fourteen he began training at Zurich’s Restaurant Baur au Lac. The first Michelin star came ten years later. When he was 25, he moved to San Francisco, without speaking a word of English.

He later moved on to New York. In 2011 he managed the incredible jump from one Michelin star to three stars. Humm went from rags to riches like no other. The man from Aargau has demonstrated that those who work hard, are always on the ball and simply do things right will go far in life. In autumn, Humm made another appearance in Switzerland and gave the Hotel Baur au Lac a culinary guest appearance. Prestige met the likeable star chef and talked to him about Swiss products, the presentation of dishes and the best sources of inspiration for cooking.

PRESTIGE: You left school aged 14 and began an apprenticeship as a cook. With all your awards, I don’t suppose that you have ever regretted that decision. Or was there ever an alternative to becoming a chef?

DANIEL HUMM: When I was 14 and dropped out of school, my future didn’t look very promising. I only flourished when I was learning in the kitchen. I eventually managed to make it onto the best apprenticeship course in the whole of Switzerland. Simply put, cooking is my passion and my life. For a while I considered becoming a professional athlete but no matter how hard I tried I never quite came out on top. However, I did achieve it when cooking – so the decision I made was absolutely right. Sports is something I do on the side.

188 | PRESTIGE

© Francesco Tonelli

© Francesco Tonelli

CULINARIUM

We hear that you’re running a marathon …

Yes, I find that running completely relaxes me. But at the same time it is also a challenge. I really want to set a personal record at the NY Marathon. ( NB. From the Editor: This is currently at 2:42).

What type of cooking did you grow up with? And did it influence what’s on the menus in your restaurants?

Traditional Swiss cuisine and regional produce. My mother always bought her food from farms and I subconsciously adopted this habit. Most people are unaware of everything that grows and thrives around New York. For many people, caviar, foie gras or truffle are luxury products – for me, fresh beans, potatoes and carrots are luxury products. I try to get the diners in my restaurants to change their way of thinking and to focus on seasonality and regionality.

Which Swiss product is never lacking in the Humm household?

I love Swiss cheese. Nobody can do better than the Swiss when it comes to cheese. And in a city like New York, everything is so easy to get hold of. And although I’m not really that keen on them, every time I’m here i drink a green Rivella – simply out of nostalgia. It takes me back to

my childhood. That’s the beauty of flavours – you can travel with them through time.

Is there anything you miss when you’re in New York?

Not really! New York is my home. I love the city. My children are there. And so is my company with several hundred employees – I never want to leave.

You have been rated the best chef in the USA. With the Eleven Madison Park New York you own one of the top ten restaurants in the world (awarded 3 Michelin stars). What else do you want to achieve in the world of cooking?

Why not number 1 in the world ranking of the top 50 restaurants? There aren’t that many more in front of me. (laughs) Otherwise, I would like to work with a lot of fun and passion.

Are there any «cooking styles» that you don’t use?

I don’t really care what other chefs are up to. I just try to do things my way. Therefore, I can’t say much about the cooking methods of my colleagues.

But does it ever feel like a competition?

No. I just try to do my thing. I don’t want to be influenced too much from the outside.

The luxurious way of life | 189

© Francesco Tonelli

CULINARIUM

Where do you draw new inspiration from?

I really like going to the library. There are tons of old cookbooks. Interpreting ancient recipes is an exciting challenge.

I also draw my inspiration from music, art, architecture and design. I also get some inspiration from the Union Square Market, the farmer’s market in the heart of Manhattan, where the producers in the region sell anything from goats’ cheese to carrots and fresh pears or herbs.

The «Nomad» cookbook was released this September.

The book places emphasis not only on food but also drink. How important is it to match drinks on your menu?

Oh, very important. Eating and drinking go together. There is an additional book inside the cookbook for drinks. It has its own secret hiding place like in the times of the Prohibition.

In the past, hotels were a haven for entertainment, a place where people met, drank, danced and celebrated. And this is something we would like to see again. A hotel should be more than a place where you sleep. We want to offer you a complete package.

© Daniel Krieger

How would you describe your cuisine?

My cuisine focuses on regional and seasonal ingredients, which are combined with traditional cooking and modern technology. The taste of the individual components is always the priority. Ingredients and seasonings must always highlight their individual flavours and should never be too overwhelming. A tomato has to always taste like a tomato! The best tomatoes are sun-ripened and freshly picked from the vine. Our dishes have to taste good, look beautiful, be creative, be surprising and tell a story.

have tried to drastically reduce our dishes. Some dishes just look like a slice of tomato. But there is a lot more to them. The less food on your plate, the fewer mistakes you can get away with. Everything has to be perfect.

What’s the first rule in your restaurants?

«Make it nice» is written on the wall at Eleven Madison Park. And this is my most important motto. It was the first English sentence that I perfected.

Do you consider yourself an artist or a tradesman?

I am a chef. And cooking is clearly a trade.

If you could choose, what would your last ever meal be?

Oh, … It’s not as easy as that. I think the people who you would share the meal with would be more important than the meal itself. Nothing beats a meal prepared with love and made with fresh, good ingredients in good company.

But your dishes look like works of art …

Taste is always the most important thing. However, appearance is also key. Especially at Michelin star level. We

Who cooks at home?

It changes all the time. But I tend to cook a lot because cooking is not just a job. It’s my passion and an important part of my life.

190 | PRESTIGE

CULINARIUM

PURE PLEASURE

COFFEE THE SECRET OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE COFFEE

Where does the world's most expensive coffee come from?

The mountains of Sumatra. The beans are harvested and then not roasted, but fed to the civet cat.

I

Yvonne Beck

n Indonesia there is a viverrid, whose love for mature, purple coffee cherries is the starting point for the most exclusive coffee in the world. The animals’ digestive tracts can only digest the pulp – the nuts, i. e. the coffee beans, pass through untouched. Before this happens, the bean is refined by digestive enzymes and stomach acid. With the breakdown of the proteins, the bitter substances in the beans are destroyed at the same time. The coffee beans remain intact.

Through this extraordinary fermentation, the beans maintain their unique flavour. Coffee connoisseurs describe the coffee as: «earthy, musty, mild, syrupy, rich and with undertones of the jungle and chocolate».

However, many of the coffee lovers are not bothered by this. The final product is exclusive. And for that they pay – in London, for example, a cup of Luwak Coffee costs 35 pounds.

Elephant Coffee – Black Ivory

Other groups, however, are already looking for alternatives and one has been found in Thailand. The speciality coffee «Black Ivory» is similar to «Kopic Luwak» and what the Indonesians do with the civet, the Thais do with the elephant.

They feed the elephants a mixture of rice, fruit and Thai Arabica beans. In the digestive tract the bitter substances are removed from the beans. 30 kg of raw beans are needed to Animal Welfare produce 1 kg of refined beans. Furthermore, Civets are predators who are mainly found not every bean passes through unharmed. in Asia, Africa and Madagascar and feast on Some are crushed between the elephant’s smaller animals, insects, worms nuts and teeth and are therefore destroyed on their the ripe red coffee fruit. But according to way out. 70 kg are currently produced each – Helga Schäferling – PETA, the growing interest in coffee has a year. Unlike the civets, the elephants are dark side: In the beginning, the animals’ not abused. This is because the animal cofdroppings were collected but now there is a fee processing takes place in the «Golden tendency to use intensive livestock farming methods. Driven by Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation». The institution’s aim is to profit, the omnivorous civets are either caught in the wild or bred provide a safe home for elephants. And part of the coffee proin captivity. The helpless animals are kept in cramped cages and ceeds goes to the veterinary care of the elephant foundation. force-fed coffee cherries to continuously refine the coffee beans. Coffee lovers can expect to pay 1100 euros for 1 kg.

Needless to say that this is extremely detrimental to the wildcats who love climbing and is tantamount to a death sentence due to malnutrition.

Coffee time is the witching hour.

It awakens the spirits.

«WHERE BRANDS & COMMUNITY BECOME ONE»

PRESTIGE appears four times a year English Edition Switzerland, Germany and Austria in german Publisher Francesco J. Ciringione Owner Prestige Media International AG, www.prestigemedia.ch Publishing Director Boris Jaeggi | b.jaeggi@prestigemedia.ch Editor in Chief Yvonne Beck | y.beck@prestigemedia.ch Editors Markus Allemann, Kiki Baron, Yvonne Beck, Thomas Borowski, Gisbert L. Brunner, Geraldine Friedrich, Wilhelm J. Grusdat, Lone K. Halvorsen, Dr. Thomas Hauer, Steffi Hidber, Hubertus Hoslin, Jochen Kruse, Stefan Lüscher, Tim Maxeiner, Angelika Möller, Anka Refghi, David Renner, Lilly Steffen, Jasmin Taylor, Helena Ugrenovic, Dominique Zahnd Correctors Ronald Garry Head of Production & Art Director Sandra Rizzi | s.rizzi@prestigemedia.ch Grafik Design Sandra Schneider | s.schneider@prestigemedia.ch Sales sales@prestigemedia.ch Product Public Relation Laura Giarratana | lg@prestigemedia.ch News product@prestigemedia.ch Yvonne Beck, Laura Giarratana, Lone K. Halvorsen, David Renner Photographs Yvonne Beck, Dominique Zahnd, Luuk van Kaathoven, www.boote-exclusiv.com, Ferrari, www.timmaxeiner.com, HATO, Leading Hotels of the World, Deutsche Kinemathek, Dirk Bartling, National Gallery London, Morgan Motor Company Limited, The Hattitud, Nikon, David de Rueda, Lalique, Taschen Verlag, Delius Klasing Verlag, McLaren, Patek Philippe, Bolschoi Theater, Herzog & De Meuron, Travel South Dakota, shutterstok, Fotodatenbanken.

Cover Picture STEFANIA PAPARELLI | BLAUBLUT-EDITION.COM Main Office & Production Prestige Media International AG St. Jakob-Strasse 110, CH-4132 Muttenz T +41 (0)61 335 60 80, F +41 (0)61 335 60 88 info@prestigemedia.ch | www.prestigemedia.ch Editorial Office Pfingstweidstrasse 31a, CH-8008 Zürich, T +41 (0)44 210 09 20 IT-Support & Web Dejan Djokic Internet prestigemedia.ch Online PR Katharina Gering | k.gering@prestigemedia.ch Hayri Goks | g.hayri@prestigemedia.ch Evin Akarsu | a.evin@prestigemedia.ch Eric Yornik | e.yornik@prestigemedia.ch Admin & Coordination Julia Steller | j.steller@prestigemedia.ch Abo Service Serpil Dursun | s.dursun@prestigemedia.ch Ombudsmann Giuseppe Brasiello | g.brasiello@prestigemedia.ch Price Issue CHF 10.– / € 9.50 | Year CHF 39.– / € 35.– Representative Offices Deutschland NIELSEN 3b + 4 MMS Marrenbach Medien-Service Bruno Marrenbach Tucherpark 6 | D-85622 Feldkirchen Kr. München T +49 (0)89 430 88 55-5 | F +49 (0)89 430 88 55-6 info@mms-marrenbach.de NIELSEN 2 Medienservice + Beratung | Nicole Haubner Vereinsstrasse 20 | D-41472 Neuss T +49 (0)2131 406 37-0 | F +49 (0)2131 406 37-10 nhaubner@medienservice-und-beratung.de

NIELSEN 3a + 7 Verlagsbüro Weipert | Helmut Weipert jr.

Palais Kronberg | Westerbachstrasse 32 D-61476 Kronberg / Taunus T +49 (0)6173 325 09 70 | M +49 (0)171 802 24 48 helmutjun@weipert-net.de Medienservice + Beratung | Petra Funke-Krieg Vereinsstrasse 20 | D-41472 Neuss T +49 (0)2131 406 37-0 | F +49 (0)2131 406 37-10 funke-krieg@medienservice-und-beratung.de

NIELSEN 1 + 5 + 6 Medien Kontor | Norman Sauer Poppenbütteler Weg 222 | D-22399 Hamburg T +49 (0)40 605 50 770 | F +49 (0)40 605 50 772 medienkontorsauer@t-online.de

A SUPERLATIVE WORLD NOVELTY GOES ONLINE! REGISTER FREE AND BECOME A PART OF IT

Österreich Angela Kindermann Projektagentur Angela Kindermann Porzellangasse 20 | Top 34 | A-1090 Wien M +43 (0)664 922 24 80 angela@kindermannprojektagentur.at

International Publicitas International DACH Region Silvana Imperiali Chételat M +41 (0)79 774 01 64 silvana.imperiali@publicitas.com

PRESTIGE prestigemagazin.com is a registered trademark. (IGE 596’147) The reproduction of articles and images, including parts or excerpts, is permitted only with permission of the editors.

The editors and publishing house do not assume any responsibility for unsolicited submissions.

192 | PRESTIGE

W W W.PRES TIGEHOME.CH

MY HOME IS MY CASTLE THE REAL-ESTATE SITE FOR SWITZERLAND’S MOST LUXURIOUS PROPERTIES.

BOUTIQUES GENEVE • GSTAAD • LUZERN ZURICH • ZERMATT

hublot.com

Classic Fusion Aeromoon King Gold.

King Gold case, an exclusive red gold alloy developed by Hublot. Dial in sapphire revealing the movement, displaying moon phases, calendar, day and month.