FIRST NOVEMBER 2021 ISSUE No 329 by FIRST Magazine (Malta)

ISSUE 329 NOVEMBER 2021

A CAPSULE OF THE WORLD

AUTUMN DREAMS “I am going to make everything around me beautiful – that will be my life.” Elsie de Wolfe

EDITORIAL AUTUMN DREAMS

“Some people feel the rain. Others just get wet.” Bob Marley

here is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under the heavens: a time to be born and a time to die, a time to plant and a time to uproot, a time to kill and a time to heal, a time to tear down and a time to build, a time to weep and a time to laugh, a time to mourn and a time to dance, a time to scatter stones and a time to gather them, a time to embrace and a time to refrain from embracing, a time to search and a time to give up, a time to keep and a time to throw away, a time to tear and a time to mend, a time to be silent and a time to speak, a time to love and a time to hate, a time for war and a time for peace. Ecclesiastes 3:1-8

ON THE COVER: ŻfinMalta, photographed by Alexandra Pace. Dancers from left to right Lotte la Haye, Emma Walker. Choreography Paolo Mangiola, for ŻfinMalta. See page 14. THIS PAGE: Photography courtesy Le Puy © ONEWINEPRODUCTION. “To be a winemaker is to be observant, curious, contemplative, hard-working, bold, meticulous, someone who loves nature and living beings and respects his fellow man.” In 2010 the Bordeaux wine estate Le Puy celebrated 400 years of a family legacy of natural organic vine-growing, applying biodynamic methods. See Moon-Gazing at Le Puy – Biodynamics for Beginners, page 46. EDITORIAL CONTENT AND SALES MANAGER SEAN ELLUL SELLUL@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT DESIGNER CONRAD BONDIN CBONDIN@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT PRODUCTION MANAGER ANDRE CAMILLERI ACAMILLERI@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT PUBLISHER STANDARD PUBLICATIONS, STANDARD HOUSE, BIRKIKARA HILL, ST JULIAN’S. TEL: 00356 2134 5888, WEB: WWW.INDEPENDENT.COM.MT FACEBOOK FIRSTMAGAZINE INSTAGRAM FIRSTMAGAZINEMALTA PRINTER PRINT-IT. FIRST IS PUBLISHED AS A COMPLIMENTARY MAGAZINE WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY AND IS NOT TO BE SOLD SEPARATELY. NO PART OF THE PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE PRIOR AGREEMENT OF THE PUBLISHER. FIRST MAGAZINE SINCE 1993. ISSUE NUMBER 329.

CONTENTS

Weaving Chaos. ŻfinMalta, National Dance Company. Photograph Leonard Cocks.

Gilded stucco, chandeliers, and large decorative painting. Inside Paris’s iconic LE TRAIN BLEU. Photograph © Le Train Bleu.

New York Interiors. Photographer Simon Upton’s Striking Visual Homage. Photograph courtesy Vendome Press.

THiS IS WiNE 3rd chapter in this issue

EXCLUSIVE SERIES: THIS IS WINE. Pauillac for Aliens. In this photo Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. Photograph courtesy Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande © Gunther Vicente.

CONTENTS [ISSUE 329. NOVEMBER 2021]

PARIS

Le Train Bleu. Inside this Magical Belle Époque Restaurant.

HEALTH & FITNESS

59 Let’s go Cycling. 64 67

AUCTION

ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE Photostory.

COFFEE TABLE

New York Interiors. Photographer Simon Upton’s Striking Visual Homage.

THIS IS WINE

Pauillac for Aliens. The 3rd chapter in This is Wine: its storied place and taste.

LACUNA. Looking at Saz Mifsud’s New Collection. Photograph Suzi Mifsud.

One Simple Life Style Change against Diabetes.

ARTS & CULTURE

Weaving Chaos. ŻfinMalta, National Dance Company.

PHOTOSTORY. The 2021 Rolex Middle Sea Race. Photograph © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo, courtesy Royal Malta Yacht Club.

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS

Sandro Botticelli. The Stunningly Modern Man of Sorrows.

Mediterranean Culinary Academy’s take on Wellington. Photograph Robert Pace.

The Very First Penny Black.

Moon-Gazing at Le Puy. Biodynamics for Beginners.

COMFORT FOOD

Food fit for a Duke. Pork Wellington with Mediterranean Culinary Academy.

FASHION

Lacuna. Designer Saz Mifsud’s New Collection.

AUCTION. The First Penny Black. Up for grabs this December – at an estimate of £4 - 6 million. Photograph courtesy Sotheby’s.

Sandro Botticelli‘s The Man of Sorrows. Photograph courtesy Sotheby’s.

AN EXPERI ENCE CREATED

EXCLUSI VELY FOR MALTA

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PARIS

MAGICALLY BELLE ÉPOQUE

Le Train Bleu Historic rooms, frescoes, sculptures, gilding, mouldings and chandeliers. This is the very Belle Époque Le Train Bleu, one of the most spectacular restaurants in Paris. Originally built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, each ornate room is themed to represent cities and regions of France and decorated with paintings by some of the most popular artists of the time. Today Le Train Bleu is a Parisian emblem, a place out of time that delights with its interiors, and remains a magnificent setting dedicated to gastronomic delights. Photography courtesy Le Train Bleu.

This page: Photography this page © Claps.tv. 7

PARIS

ocated on the 1st floor of Gare de Lyon station, Le Train Bleu was built in 1900 for the Universal Exhibition by the Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée ( PLM ) railway company under the name of “Buffet de la Gare de Lyon“. Built at the same time as the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais, the restaurant was inaugurated a year later in 1901 by the French President Emile Loubet and quickly attracted high society and artists. In its construction, the management of the railway company hoped to create an unmissable gourmet experience in a luxurious, modern, and legendary setting. They wanted a restaurant as prestigious as the trips they proposed so that the restaurant would become the first ‘stopover’ on a trip, which at the time was still an adventure. The stops on the Paris Lyon Méditerranée line inspired them to take full measure of the beauty of the regions of France. In 1963, the buffet was renamed “Le Train Bleu” as a tribute to the Blue Train “ParisVintimille” line dating from 1868, the legendary train that served towns in the French Riviera along the Mediterranean coast. Saved from demolition in 1966, in 1972, some of Le Train Bleu’s halls were listed as historical monuments, including the restaurant, the gold lounge, and the Tunisian and Algerian lounges, as well as the passageways and their decor. The huge dining rooms still have their original features, polished floors, woodwork, leather banquettes, mahogany service furniture, lush gilded stucco, chandeliers, state furniture, club chairs and 41 large decorative paintings on the walls and ceilings representing the major stages traveled to by the PLM Company, painted by some of the most fashionable painters at the time.

This page: The bar area’s main corridor. Photograph © Fabrice Labit. Facing page: The main mural in the great hall represents the Orange theatre by Albert Maignan (1845-1908). Photograph MBZT. Overleaf (pages 10,11): The great hall of Le Train Bleu still has its original features, including lush gilded stucco, chandeliers, and large decorative paintings. Photograph © Le Train Bleu.

PARIS

THE ORIENT EXPRESS

PARIS

makes an appearance alongside recipes that have contributed to Le Train Bleu’s success, like the iconic rum baba or even the tartare prepared at your table. Le Train Bleu prides itself on “French-style service”, and the restaurant is treated as an extension of the kitchen where meat is carved, cuts are chosen and dishes are flambéed before your eyes. This increasingly rare “French-style service” contributes to the experience of a moment frozen in time. In the course of its 120 years, Le Train Blue has welcomed a veritable who’s who of famous guests, including Brigitte Bardot, Coco Chanel and Salvador Dalí, and has also served as a backdrop for numerous film scenes, including Nikita and Place Vendôme. Visiting this magical place gives you the opportunity to experience the wonderful sensation of stepping inside a time machine and finding yourself in the Belle Époque. Above: Visiting this magical place gives you the opportunity to experience the wonderful sensation of stepping inside a time machine and finding yourself in the Belle Époque. Photograph © Le Train Bleu. Right: Le Train Bleu’s iconic roast leg of lamb, carved from the trolley. Photograph © Tetes a Claps.

ince 2018, Maison Rostang has worked with Le Train Bleu to develop a new gastronomic menu, in the tradition of the station buffet. Le Train Bleu and two-starred chef Michel Rostang share a passion for high-quality ingredients and seasonal cuisine. Regional produce from southwest France along the historic PLM (Paris-Lyon-Marseille) line takes centre stage. In the restaurant, everything has been designed to showcase the cuisine. Meat is carved and dishes are flambéed right in front of you for an absolutely unique show. Indeed Le Train Bleu’s iconic recipes have been given a Rostang twist. The result? A traditional gratin dauphinois with no cheese or eggs, Rostang’s signature dish, complements Le Train Bleu’s famous roast leg of lamb (carved from the trolley). Bresse poultry with fresh tarragon cream served with grilled basmati rice, another of Michel Rostang’s legendary specialties also

Gio. Batta Delia ESTABLISHED 1901

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ARTS & CULTURE

“Dance at this level of fullness and beauty is a miracle. This show will haunt memories and imaginations for a long time.” Trina Mounier in Les Trois Coups.com (2014) 14

ARTS & CULTURE

WEAVING CHAOS .

Performed by ZfinMalta, National Dance Company Choreography by Tânia Carvalho With colder months settling in and theatres returning to capacity, people are heading back indoors for entertainment and cultural experiences. Weaving Chaos is ŻfinMalta’s promise of an extraordinary night of dance in Malta’s beloved Teatru Manoel. Photography this page Neil Grech.

ARTS & CULTURE

“With Weaving Chaos, Tânia Carvalho imposes herself (if it is still necessary) as one of the freest and most inventive choreographers of today.” Renan Benyamina in Hétéroclite (2014)

Main photography these pages Neil Grech. Photo top left centre (seated dancers) Matteo Carratoni. Photo above (two dancers) Leonard Cocks

ARTS & CULTURE

f we are to believe the Maltese tradition claiming Gozo as Calypso’s Island of Ogygia, ŻfinMalta brings Ulysses on a different homecoming with Weaving Chaos by Portuguese choreographer Tânia Carvalho, one of Europe’s most important choreographers today. ŻfinMalta’s company dancers end the year with the performance of this highly acclaimed work based on Homer’s Odyssey, which summons its dancers to interpret the stubbornness, the pain, and the will of the epic hero returning home. Weaving Chaos was first premièred at the Biennal de la Danse de Lyon followed by the Centre Pompidou in September 2014. Since then, it has been performed on many prestigious stages throughout the world. Now Maltese audiences can see this astonishing work performed by our own National Dance Company, in the historic Teatru Manoel. Tânia Carvalho’s career as a choreographer spans over 20 years and includes works for the Lyon Opera Ballet, the Company of Elders in London, the National Ballet of Portugal, the Paulo Ribeiro Company, Dançando com a Diferença, and Ballet National de Marseille, among many others. Her work also encompasses music, drawing and film. ŻfinMalta’s Artistic Director Paolo Mangiola explains his choice of Tânia Carvalho as a guest choreographer in ŻfinMalta’s 2021/22 season programme as “not only because she is now at the forefront of the European scene and one of the most sought-after choreographers, but also because her work speaks to many, in a language that is brilliant and unique. She creates a world onstage that is mysterious and engaging, by combining theatrical elements and choreographic strategies. Audiences can expect to be captivated from the very first minute. Carvalho’s powerful and beautiful choreography appeals to our emotions on many levels, and then takes us on an entirely new experience of dance.” Weaving Chaos is supported by the Embassy of Portugal in Rome and Camões I.P. Experience a full season of dance with ŻfinMalta and mark these dates in your calendar now.

ŻfinDays 2022

A platform for the presentation of short works by choreographers in the spotlight on the international dance stage, ŻfinDays 2022 features Georgia Tegou (Athens/London) and Francesca Pennini’s CollettivO CineticO (Italy). Supported by the Italian Cultural Institute of Valletta. 18/19/20 February 2022, Valletta Campus Theatre.

Intimate Żfin

See the company’s extraordinary dancers up close in a series of choreographic miniatures created by ŻfinMalta’s artistic director Paolo Mangiola, in collaboration with singer and musician Alexandra Alden and her band from Rotterdam, set in the lavish surrounds of the Palazzo Parisio ballroom. Supported by Palazzo Parisio. 26/27 March 2022, Palazzo Parisio.

Requiem for Juliet

A new full-length work commissioned for ŻfinMalta, Requiem for Juliet is Riccardo Buscarini’s sequel to William Shakespeare’s 1597 play, Romeo and Juliet. The narrative is relived as an imaginary letter to the deceased Juliet from her bereaved mother, who is represented by an actress on stage throughout. Supported by the Italian Cultural Institute of Valletta. 27/28/29 May 2022, Teatru Manoel.

Sunrise Mass

A collaboration between ŻfinMalta, KorMalta, and Heritage Malta in a site-specific work at the Mnajdra Temples in Malta, and Ggantija Temples in Gozo, centred around Ola Gjeilo’s renowned ‘Sunrise Mass’, written for a chorus and string orchestra. 19 June 2022.

For full details and programme updates subscribe to ŻfinMalta’s newsletter on www.zfinmalta.org and follow on Instagram and Facebook. 17

ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE

PHOTOSTORY THE 2021 ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE Photography © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo, courtesy Royal Malta Yacht Club.

ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE

This page: The start of the 2021 Rolex Middle Sea Race from The Grand Harbour, Valletta, Saturday 23rd October. The start line is located in the centre of Grand Harbour, running from the Saluting Battery, just beneath the Upper Barrakka Gardens on the Valletta side, across to Fort St. Angelo in Birgu. Photo © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo. 19

ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE

Above: Start of the 42nd Rolex Middle Sea Race, 2021, leaving The Grand Harbour, Valletta. The organiser, The Royal Malta Yacht Club, traces its roots back to 1835. The club exists to serve the sailing community of Malta and all visiting sailors including those who participate in its most famous race. It has a membership of 700. Photo © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo. Right: Skorpios, a ClubSwan 125, is the Rolex Middle Sea Race’s largest ever entrant. Photo © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo.

1968 THE START

he Rolex Middle Sea Race was created as the result of sporting rivalry between two British yachtsmen residing in Malta, Alan Green and Jimmy White, and two Maltese sailors, Paul and John Ripard, both members of the Royal Malta Yacht Club (RMYC). Alan (who would go on to become Secretary of the Royal Ocean Racing Club) and Jimmy proposed a longer course than was typical in the region, and one designed to offer an exciting competition in windier autumn conditions. Originally the idea was a course that would start in Malta and finish in Syracuse one year, and then start in Syracuse and finish in Malta the next. In an inspired moment, Paul insisted that the race should be centred on Malta, starting and finishing there with a clockwise circumnavigation of Sicily including Lampedusa, Pantelleria and the Egadi and Aeolian islands. It would be slightly longer than the RORC’s own famous offshore event, the Fastnet Race, sponsored by Rolex since 2001. The main committee of the RMYC enthusiastically backed the concept despite only six months notice to the inaugural race. Alan Green agreed to run the event on two conditions: he was given complete authority over the arrangements and that he would compete. Malta embraced the race from the very beginning and Malta’s then Governor-General, H.E. Sir Maurice Dorman, who was also the RMYC Commodore, became one of the early supporters.

ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE

Above: Strombolicchio – Little Stromboli - is a volcanic plug of extremely hard compacted basalt, and is the remnant of the original volcano from which Stromboli was built up, lying 2 km to the northeast of Stromboli, with Strombolicchio Lighthouse, located on its summit. The Rolex Middle Sea Race course is approximately 606 nautical miles long and is sailed anti-clockwise, starting from Grand Harbour, Valletta, Malta. On leaving Malta, the fleet heads north to Capo Passero, the Eastern seaboard of Sicily and on towards the Strait of Messina. From Messina, the yachts head North to the second active volcano on the course, Stromboli, one of the Aeolian Islands, all of which must be left to port. At the islet of Strombolicchio, the fleet turns West along the Northern coast of Sicily towards the Egadi Islands. Leaving the Egadi Islands (except Marettimo) to port, crews head South towards the island of Lampedusa leaving Pantelleria to port. At Lampedusa, the course heads northeast to the South Comino Channel (between Comino and Malta) and the final leg to the finish line at the entrance to Marsamxett Harbour. Photo © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo. Left: Artie III, Sail no: MLT 2222, Boat Type: HH42, Entrant: Lee Satariano, Country: Malta, Skipper: Lee Satariano /Christian Ripard, Class 3, Passing Stromboli. Photo © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo.

ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE

or Alan, from the outset, the race’s success was unquestionable: “The qualities, challenge and attraction of sailing the seas of classical history with spectacular scenery including two active volcanoes, the only tidal strait in the Mediterranean, and the friendly island base of Malta with its British heritage - and not least the warmth of the water in autumn - contrasted sharply with [the] experience of offshore racing in northern waters. In matching the length of the Fastnet, Bermuda, and Sydney Hobart races, I was sure we had a winning formula.” Contributions came from all quarters. Vice-Commodore Colonel G. Z. (“Tabby”) Tabona secured saluting howitzers from the Royal Malta Artillery, Sir Hannibal Scicluna, Head of the Malta Museums Department, agreed to the use of Fort Manoel in Marsamxett Harbour, to host the start and Race Control. The British Navy installed telephone lines and the Malta Electricity Board hooked up a power supply and lighting. The Malta Tourism Board used its network to distribute the Notice of Race and other promotional material, and helped arrange free moorings for competitors. Closer to the event, the British Navy laid a trot of temporary moorings in Sliema Creek. During the race, the British Airforce flew a reconnaissance aircraft to take daily photographs, while both British and

Italian Navies engaged warships stationed in the course area to help with position reporting. The first race attracted eight entries. Alan Green and Jimmy White competed on Sandettie, John Ripard secured a Swan 36, named Josian, and Paul raced aboard the legendary maxi yacht, Stormvogel. The Italian Navy entered its training yacht, Stella Polare. Other entries included: the Nicholson 32 Barada, Pedlar, Yanda and Dream of Holland (which retired at Pantelleria). While Stormvogel was first to finish, the eventual overall winner was Josian giving John Ripard and Malta a landmark opening victory. The final prize giving was a black-tie affair, and the guest of honour was Sir Francis Chichester, fresh from his ground-breaking solo circumnavigation of the world. The race was not run for some years after 1983 until 1996 when the committee of the Royal Malta Yacht Club took a decision to re-instate the race. In 2002, Rolex SA came on board as the title sponsor. Since 2002, the event has witnessed a record number of entries every year and has also seen amazing growth in the quality of entries. Although bigger boats regularly participate with new technological improvements such as code zeros, canting keels and forward canards, the Course Record remained unbeaten for 7 years. One used to wonder when this would ever be broken. 64 hrs, 49 mins and 57 seconds was the time to beat...

Top: Skorpios, a ClubSwan 125, was the second monohull to finish the 2021 Rolex Middle Sea Race. Photo © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo.

ROLEX MIDDLE SEA RACE 2021 HIGHLIGHTS

his year’s Rolex Middle Sea Race was tough, especially for the smaller boats. At times, during the 606 nautical mile expedition, gale force winds and tumultuous seas battered the fleet in what many have described as a once in a lifetime weather system. Indeed the race narrative had to be altered in the early hours of Wednesday 27 October, with some 23 boats still on the racecourse. A serious and adverse change to the weather forecast led the Royal Malta Yacht Club Race Committee to invoke the alternative finish line, in the South Comino Channel as per the sailing instructions. The rule was written specifically in anticipation of the forecast severe north-easterly, which would have made Marsamxett Harbour extremely dangerous to enter. But the weather led to a perfect set of results for the fastest entries in both the multihull and monohull categories. Jason Carroll’s MOD70 Argo was first to finish, taking multihull line honours. The American trimaran posted a time that also secured a class win under MOCRA Time correction and lowered the outright race record by an impressive 14.5 hours, finishing the 606nm race in 33 hours, 29 minutes and 28 seconds. Overall victory in the Rolex Middle Sea Race under IRC time correction went to Comanche (CAY). Skippered by Mitch Booth with an elite crew of Olympic, America’s Cup and ocean racing talent, the 30.48m/100ft maxi completed the race in 40 hours, 17 minutes and 50 seconds, seven and half hours inside the previous race record. In taking line honours, Comanche has also set a new monohull race record, finally beating the time set by George David’s Rambler in 2007. At the final prize giving, Booth accepted the Rolex Middle Sea Race trophy on behalf of Comanche, making special reference to the fact that this was a team effort with some 30 people involved. Booth went on to acknowledge the significance of the victory: “The Rolex Middle Sea Race is one of the premiere events in offshore racing and to come away with the triple is very rare. This weather window was perfect, and we were lucky to get around the corners at just the right time. We had everything thrown at us strong winds, rain, lightning, huge waves sometimes. It was really challenging.” The HH42 Artie III, jointly skippered by Lee Satariano (15 races) and Christian Ripard (31 races), was the first Maltese boat to finish on the water. “We knew from the forecast it was going to be fast, so our preparation took this into account,” advised Satariano. “We adapted our watch system to ensure the drivers and tactician were kept fresh. Once or twice from Stromboli (to Trapani) we were on the limit, broaching more than once. We were prepared for these moments and kept the boat intact.” The current Artie project began in 2019 and the team has been steadily developing the boat from an inshore racer to a capable offshore steed. “We had been waiting for a race like this,” continued Satariano. “One that would fully test the boat and the crew. Our best points of sail are reaching and running, and the race delivered this. It was spectacular how the boat and crew responded to the tough conditions keeping on the tight rope between going fast under control and suffering damage that puts you out of the race.” Christian

Ripard has seen it all before and more. “It was great fun, good conditions, good boat, good crew. It was definitely the fastest race I have done on this size of boat. It was a constant balance between seamanship and going fast. During the day was one thing, but at night the conditions were much worse. You don’t want to wipe out with a big kite (spinnaker) up going 25 knots in the dark.” Sebastian Ripard is the grandson of John Ripard Sr, winner of the first race in 1968, and was a winner himself on his first race with his father on the J/109 Market Wizard in 2002. Skippering the J/99 Calypso was a memorable experience. “It was once in a lifetime forecast with that tight low pressure over the racetrack creating mainly downwind conditions. From Stromboli to San Vito lo Capo we had anything from 30 to 50 knots and five to eight metre waves.” It was not all simple. Their sail inventory resulted in a difficult situation at Stromboli. “We tried the A4 in about 30 knots, but the wind quickly picked up to late 30s, early 40s and the boat was unbelievably out of control, either broaching out or trying to scream into a Chinese gybe. Fortunately, we got it down unscathed. It would have been easier with a smaller kite.” This was Ripard’s 15th race and out of the seven crew, six were family. Calypso finished fourth in IRC Class 6 and 16th overall.

Above: The 2021 Rolex Middle Sea Race First Maltese Boat – Artie III Arrival. Artie III, Sail no: MLT 2222, Boat Type: HH42, Entrant: Lee Satariano, Country: Malta, Skipper: Lee Satariano / Christian Ripard, Class 3. Photo © Rolex/Kurt Arrigo.

The 43rd Rolex Middle Sea Race will begin on Saturday 22 October 2022. 25

COFFEE TABLE

COFFEE TABLE “I believe in plenty of optimism and white paint, comfortable chairs with lights beside them, open fires on the hearth and flowers wherever they “belong,” mirrors and sunshine in all rooms.” Elsie de Wolfe, The House in Good Taste (1913)

A STRIKING VISUAL HOMAGE

NEW YORK INTERIORS Simon Upton is one of the foremost names in interiors photography, with more than twenty-five years of published work to his credit. Sought after by the major design publications globally, he travels the world photographing people and their homes. His work appears regularly in The World of Interiors, Elle Decor, Vogue, and Architectural Digest. In his first monograph, New York Interiors he turns his camera on one of his most-loved destinations, with this personal selection of private homes in New York City, revealing a wide range of fabulous interiors and endless design ideas. Photography Simon Upton, courtesy Vendome Press.

Book Cover: The bright yellow cover of Simon Upton’s first book “New York Interiors” conjures up the image of New York’s iconic taxis. Left: The wooden slats of the tree-house-like porch are inspired by barn designs. 27

COFFEE TABLE

Top left: This apartment in the centre of New York, at Columbus Circle, with spectacular views over Central Park. Left: The landing in this 18th century home is filled with vintage photography from floor to ceiling, but the architectural details of the wooden flooring and window finishes still come through. Top: At her Manhatten home, Elle Decor editor Cynthia Frank has transported Paris flair to downtown New York. In this dining room, 19th century Chippendale chairs and an antique French mirror stand out. Right: Designer Michael S. Smith was appointed by President Barack Obama to the Committee for the Preservation of the White House from 2008-2016 and was responsible for the 2010 makeover of the Oval Office. His Park Avenue penthouse of is filled with Francophilic references.

rbane and characterful, New York Interiors unveils Upton’s favourite city interiors, intertwined with atmospheric images of the metropolis and portraits of some of its most stylish residents. He has been photographing these interiors for years, but this gives a collection of his favourite homes from his past quarter of a century of work.

COFFEE TABLE

resented in two parts – City and Getaway – the book showcases city living from Uptown to Downtown. Each home is referenced by different chapters including ‘Englishman in New York’, ‘Artist Provocateur’, and ‘Glamorous Fantasy’, giving a unique opportunity to have a personal look inside the homes of some of the biggest names in interior design today, including, among others, the homes of Elle Decor editor Cynthia Frank, designer Michael S. Smith – who was appointed by President Barack Obama to the Committee for the Preservation of the White House from 2008-2016 and who was responsible for the 2010 makeover of the Oval Office, interior designer Alfredo Paredes – the former chief creative officer of Ralph Lauren Home, and Hamish Bowles – who has been the European editor-at-large for the American edition of Vogue since 1995. The book also explores out-of-town retreats from the Hamptons to Hudson Valley, where New Yorkers such as visual artist Cary Leibowitz and David Mann – the founding partner of MR Architecture + Decor and an acclaimed architect and interior designer, head at the weekend to relax and unwind.

Above: A Warhol hangs in one corner of this bright and energizing office in downtown New York, in the very eclectic home of visual artist Cary Leibowitz. Right: Miles Redd was the creative director of Oscar de la Renta Home from 2003-13. His New York home is filled with a love of colour. His living room is painted Schiaparelli pink.

COFFEE TABLE

“N

ew York would never have kept me so faithful for so long were it not for the wonderful people I have met along the way”, writes Simon Upton himself. “ The selection of interior designers and architects, stylists, artists, writers, and “free spirits” revealed in this book – each of whom offers a personal glimpse into their own relationship with the place they call “home” – reflects the remarkable diversity of private spaces to be found both in New York City and the countryside beyond. From art-filled lofts and penthouse apartments to intimate and cozy pied-à-terre, and from cool coastal dwellings to idyllic country plots, some of the locations have never been seen before, while others

Left: The Living Room inside Hamish Bowles West Village New York apartment. Since 1995 Bowles has been the European editor-at-large for the American edition of Vogue. Bottom left: Interior designer Alfredo Paredes is the former chief creative officer of Ralph Lauren Home, having spent over 30 years designing stores around the world. For his East Village duplex he installed casement windows to let natural light flood in from the terrace to the main living space with 14-foot ceilings. The room builds on the strength of neutrals and earth tones. Right: The living room of style editor and decorator Carlos Mota’s New York Apartment. Below: Although known for his love of saturated colour, for this bedroom Miles Redd used a softer serene palette, with tones of blue and pops of colour.

COFFEE TABLE

have been revisited especially for this book.” The variety of very private places people call home allows for design inspiration on all fronts and budgets, offering design inspiration on how you can work with and experiment successfully with colour such as in Miles Redd’s (former creative director of Oscar de la Renta Home) Schiaparelli pink living room, to working tonally – but spectacularly – with neutrals and earth tones.

COFFEE TABLE

This page: For his Park Avenue penthouse, designer Michael S. Smith was inspired by 18thcentury France. In the master bathroom Carrara Marble cladding and hand-carved details reference The Ritz in Paris.

s Rupert Tomas, the editor of World of Interiors, says in the foreword, “the rooms themselves are wide-ranging: from rigorously empty to pleasingly jam-packed, rainbow-bright to chicly monochromatic, put together on a (relative) shoestring or lavishly decorated with money no object.”

ABOUT THE CONTRIBUTORS: Karen Howes is an interior design writer whose books include Private Ireland, Vacation Homes and Perfect Weekend Hideaways. She runs the Interior Archive, a Londonbased picture library and photographic agency representing some of the world’s best photographers. Rupert Thomas is editor-in-chief of The World of Interiors. New York Interiors by Simon Upton, edited by Karen Howes, foreword by Rupert Thomas. Published by Vendome Press. Hardcover, 250 colour illustrations, 360 pages.

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

www.halmannvella.com HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta T: (+356) 21 433 636 E: info@halmannvella.com

PAUILLAC

The third chapter in This is wine: its storied place and taste.

“Fruit of the earth, work of human hands, blessed be God forever”

FRANCE – BORDEAUX – LEFT BANK – PAUILLAC

PAUILLAC FOR ALIENS If Cabernet Sauvignon is famous it is due to Pauillac. As a riverside embankment and port, the town of Pauillac and its territory enjoyed advantageous access to Bordeaux and beyond. However its distinct terroir is what made it a cut above the rest. Vineyards in the region were sporadically planted throughout the Middle Ages, Château Latour has its origins in the 1300s, while some chateaux were founded by the 1500s. Yet, it was only with the increased international interest in Bordeaux wines from the 17th century onwards that the majority of chateaux and their vineyards were established. This was partly due to the importance of the river trading town of Pauillac itself. With increased diversification and discernment, Pauillac and its chateaux stood out as the overall frontrunner. One chateau in particular, a recent up comer, would distinguish itself as the market maker, writes Kris Bonavita. This page: Iconic fountain in Bordeaux's Place des Quinconces, Monument aux Girondins. Photograph Philippe Oursel.

THIS IS WINE ou’d be forgiven for not having a clue on how to pronounce nor where to place Pauillac on a map, but Pauillac is as famous and as quintessential Bordeaux as you can get. In fact so famous and quintessential that the names of chateaux situated on its fabled terroir eclipse its very name. Three out of five of what are arguably considered the best chateaux in the world call Pauillac home. Château Latour, Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Mouton Rothschild are all First Growths or Premier Grand Cru Classes. Another fifteen chateaux have Grand Cru Classe status. In all Pauillac wines represent 84% of production of all 1855 Grand Cru Classifications. This is a point that even America’s third president and most famous wine aficionado, Thomas Jefferson, believed in two hundred years ago, even before any official classification of wines became the norm. Jefferson may have toasted the declaration of independence from British rule and the acquisition of Louisiana from Napoleon (practically the whole of the Midwest at 18 dollars per square mile) with Madeira wine; but his cellars, if his enthusiastic advice to a friend is anything to go by, was well stacked with Pauillac, among many other bottles.

A WINE AMPHORA FOR THE PRICE OF A SLAVE

ut if we want to appreciate the pedigree of Bordeaux wines we need to go a bit further back in history. The ancient Romans were probably the first to plant vines in the region who judiciously thought wine was a daily necessity. Firstcentury A.D. wine amphorae from Burdigala, as Bordeaux was then known, have been found in Pompeii, and ampelographers (experts in the classification of grape varieties) note that the local Bituriges tribe had plantings of Spanish derived grapes; known locally as

Biturica, a corruption of Vidure, the French term for Cabernet Sauvignon and its ancestors. The local Gauls were already fond of wine with a single amphora valued at the price of a slave. Yet it was to the merit of the Romans, who valued the well-drained southfacing hills, to realize the potential of the region and the town of Bordeaux as a river port with easy access via the Gironde estuary to the Atlantic. And further afield as a means of supply of wine to garrisons in Britain in their ever-increasing military ambitions.

ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE’S MARRIAGE OF CONVENIENCE

y the 12th century this maritime link north to England would take on new meaning when Eleanor Duchess of Aquitaine (as the region was known), upon the dissolution of her marriage to the then King of France, Louis VII; in order to avoid being kidnapped and forced into a lucrative marriage, a viable option at the time as a rich and single heiress, hurriedly and surreptitiously married Henry II Plantagenet a couple of years shy of his own coronation. This would see the whole Bordeaux region become part and parcel of the vast Angevin Empire. Henry’s granting to the city of Bordeaux tax-free trade status with England would see the majority of wine produced there exported; resulting in the expansion of vineyards to accommodate foreign demand. Even after France’s repossession of the territory in the 15th century, this lucrative tie to the Anglophonic market in contrast to other French winemaking regions remained in place right through to the modern day. The region’s location between two rivers was not just good for the growing of grapes but for their easy export to the wider world. This in turn helped the continuous and intensive investment and knowhow into winemaking that has made Bordeaux what it is. Grape

varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon do not just owe their origin and fame to Bordeaux but equally the skills of winemaking and blending of varieties have had a worldwide influence. Yet, much of the Medoc or left bank of the Gironde estuary where Pauillac is situated was still barren marshland until Dutch traders in the 17th century, due to their interest in Bordeaux wines, built roads and water canals, draining the ground in order to be planted with vines. Vines that gradually surpassed in fame the gravel terrains further upriver around the city of Bordeaux itself, known as the Graves region. By the 1700s the interest in Bordeaux wines was so great that vineyards were divided into distinct areas and regions that gave rise to the modern appellations. As customers became more discerning, wine labels became more detailed of provenance and chateaux; and their wines were differentiated according to popularity and hence price. Until the classification of 1855 set in stone what in practice had already been happening between wine brokers for chateaux known as courtiers and wine merchants or negociants who in turn sold to the wider market, in distinguishing and ranking chateaux and their regions.

IF CABERNET SAUVIGNON IS FAMOUS IT IS DUE TO PAUILLAC

auillac in all of this would gain more than most. As a riverside embankment and port, the town of Pauillac and its territory enjoyed advantageous access to Bordeaux and beyond. However its distinct terroir is what made it a cut above the rest. Vineyards in the region were sporadically planted throughout the Middle Ages, Château Latour has its origins in the 1300s, while some chateaux were founded by the 1500s. Yet, it was only with the 38

increased international interest in Bordeaux wines from the 17th century onwards that the majority of chateaux and their vineyards were established. This was partly due to the importance of the river trading town of Pauillac itself. With increased diversification and discernment, Pauillac and its chateaux stood out as the overall frontrunner. One chateau in particular, a recent up comer, would distinguish itself as the market maker.

PAUILLAC

This page: Château Pichon Baron, is one of the great historic vineyards of Bordeaux. The 19th century château, with its two towering turrets, is emblematic of Pauillac's strength and power. Photography © Château Pichon Baron, Serge Chapuis. 39

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This page: Dovecote Tower of Château Latour. Many consider a small parcel at the heart of Latour known as L’Enclos (close to the iconic dovecote tower) as the best terroir in the whole of the Left bank. L'Enclos overlooks the Gironde estuary which gives a beneficial microclimate to the location, tempering extreme weather conditions. Photography Benjamin Zingg. 40

PAUILLAC

BARON ROTHSCHILD’S WINE REVOLUTION

hateaux often formed part of the landowning portfolios of illustrious noble families who were primarily focused on caring for vineyards, making the wine and barrelling it. Courtiers would take on the more mundane job of negotiating with wine merchants or negociants, who in turn took charge of bottling, distribution and guaranteed sales. This would all change when the twenty old son of the owner of Château Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac took control of the business in the 1920s. Baron Philippe had the overriding ambition to change the vine growing and winemaking techniques to catapult the chateau to new heights. In so doing, he changed how Bordeaux wine was made and sold where

his revolutionary ideas have become standard practice today. One of the first radical changes was to bottle all wine with the allimportant labelling at the chateau. A move that would further control quality and branding and equally influence how the wine was sold. Following a spate of poor vintages in the 1930s, he was also the first to limit production of the grand vin to high-quality grapes or vintages, and sell the surplus, branded under a second wine, known as Mouton Cadet, at more affordable prices. Standard practices today of all grand chateaux that have resulted in higher quality but reduced output of their grand vins, with second wines becoming the norm.

JUDGMENT OF PARIS

hâteau Mouton Rothschild already had Second Growth status, however his perseverance was rewarded with being the only chateau to be elevated to First Growth since the original classification of 1855. This decision would be vindicated when Mouton Rothschild in a blind tasting competition in Paris was famously the highest rated French red wine. In 1976 a British merchant who only sold French wine organized a competition where French judges blind-tasted red and white wines from France and California. To the shock of the wine-speaking world the Californian wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay won each category; with Mouton Rothschild coming a close second in the reds and a Meursault

Charmes Roulot a close second in the whites. In what has famously been coined the Judgment of Paris, (an allusion to a Greek myth where Prince Paris had the misfortune of being chosen to judge between three goddesses in a beauty contest with far-reaching consequences on the destiny of his city of Troy), brought forward the idea that good wine could be made anywhere even in the New World and that French winemakers had to re-examine some of the traditions and convictions that were taken for granted. This was indeed to the benefit of French winemakers and wine lovers in general as chateaux and vintages have never been so consistently above par as the last few decades.

MAJESTIC IN BODY AND STRUCTURE… PAUILLAC WINE GUIDE

he Bordeaux region is naturally divided by the Gironde estuary into the Right bank which includes St Emilion and Pomerol and the Left bank which includes the Medoc and Graves. Left bank wines are distinguished from the Right bank in being Cabernet Sauvignon dominated blends as opposed to Merlot. The Medoc comprises the entire western bank of the Gironde river up to the city of Bordeaux. The geology of the region is characterised by a series of gravel terraces some ten metres deep parallel to the estuary, laid down by retreating glaciers in the recent Quaternary period and overlying more ancient clay and limestone subsoils. The upstream or southern portion is known as Haut-Medoc; parts of which are divided into the more famous communes of St Estephe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux. The entire Medoc is bordered by Les Landes, a large coniferous forest that protects Bordeaux from the harsh cold winds of the Atlantic Ocean nearby. Both the town and region of Pauillac lie between the villages of St Julien and St Estephe and within a nine square mile area have only about 1200 hectares of vineyards (Malta is estimated to have 800) and 115 vine-growers out of which some 40 are chateaux. What makes the Medoc and in particular Pauillac so special is its terroir of reddish-brown gravel-rich soils overlying a limestone

foundation. In contrast to its neighbours the region is elevated rising to about 30 metres above sea level; where the best vineyards have gentle hillsides close to the river. More specifically its terroir can be further divided into two large tranches. The northernmost part, where Châteaux Lafite Rothschild and Mouton-Rothschild lie, the land is slightly more elevated with deeper levels of gravel and rocks overlying sand, clay and limestone. In contrast, the southernmost part, where Château Latour lies has a larger concentration of gravel rocks and stones overlying richer clay and iron deposits (similar to Pomerol) at lower elevations with easier access to water. Many consider a small parcel at the heart of Latour known as L’Enclos (close to an iconic dovecote tower) as the best terroir in the whole of the Left bank. Apart from the tempering maritime influence of the Atlantic Ocean nearby, chateaux (often classified) that border the river tend to have not only the best terroir and access to water but equally benefit from a slightly warmer microclimate which helps in grape ripening. The cooling influence of the Ocean also gives the grapes a much need acidity. Further inland away from the river the terroir of Pauillac tends to have less gravel, smaller stones and sandier soils. It is as such the deep rocky gravel soils that provide the best terroir for the kind of grape grown here.

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THE ART OF BLENDING WHERE CABERNET SAUVIGNON IS KING

auillac is Cabernet Sauvignon country, where other grape varieties; Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carmenere, are also grown and blended in smaller proportion. The art of blending in Bordeaux rose out of necessity. During the harsh cold years of the Little Ice Age that struck Europe between the 1600s and the 1800s, vine growers planted different varieties as an insurance policy in the hope of salvaging some of their harvest during erratic seasons. Grape varieties responded differently to wet and cold and had differing ripening times and conditions; allowing winemakers to cautiously harvest and vinify in stages and blend accordingly. Over generations it was discovered that the profiles of each grape variety could be used to complement each other and create better wines. Yet, it would take a further bout of disaster for the Left Bank to switch entirely to a predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Formerly Malbec was the main grape, however a pest infestation of phylloxera in the late 18th century resulted in most Bordeaux chateaux being devastated, until pest-resistant American rootstock saved the day. Chateaux took the opportunity to concentrate on varieties that responded better to grafting and suited their soils more with Cabernet Sauvignon on the left bank and Merlot and Cabernet Franc on the right bank. Cabernet Sauvignon is popular for its ease of cultivation, hardy pestresistant vines, and low concentrated yields that flower and ripen late avoiding frost. The grape has fostered a familiarity due to its full-bodied tannic structure, distinguishable flavours and acidity; all important factors in allowing wine to age gracefully. The type of terroir that it is grown in and climate affects both its flavour profile and tannic levels. However, changes in the wine-making stage allow chateaux to express different wine styles. The level of tannins and intensity of flavour and colour in the final wine can be determined by the length of maceration, where the thick skins are steeped in the grape juice, and the temperature of fermentation. Cabernet Sauvignon is known for its affinity for oak, where barrel aging softens the tannins and contributes some of the wood and spice flavours. In Left bank

blends, Cabernet Sauvignon provides the backbone of structure and body but due to its late and difficult ripening, it can sometimes be weak in fruit flavours. This is where the softer floral aromas and rounded fruit flavours of Cabernet Franc and Merlot respectively complement Sauvignon blends. Serendipitously, the stone and rock gravel and sandstone soils of Pauillac are ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon vines as they aid the late-ripening grape by reflecting sunlight, retaining heat and providing warmth. This is in contrast to the clay-rich soils of the Right bank more suitable for Merlot. The deep gravel also provides quick drainage in wet years; an important feature in a variety that is not fond of having wet roots, ensuring that the finest grapes are never diluted. In dry years the thick gravel forces the vines to extend their roots deep into the soil to access the clay and calcium-rich nutrients and river water. Something which aids the vines to both suffer and seek nourishment in a way that intensifies and concentrates the layers of flavour and characteristics of the thick-skinned small-berried grape. These elements make Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Pauillac consistently powerful. The poor soil unfit for most agricultural produce is also perfect in limiting the growth of canopy foliage and exposing the small grapes to sunlight. Indeed the best vintages for Pauillac are difficult to point out, where often some chateaux produce excellent wine even in disappointing years. Pauillac tends to have a cooler microclimate than the surrounding region, rarely resulting in overripe or over alcoholic wines. Very cold years could result in leaner more acidic wines, while hot dry summer years provide the perfect conditions for the richly styled vintages. Within the last two decades 2016, 2010, 2009, 2005 and 2000 were exceptional even by Pauillac’s high standards, with 2015 and 2014, 2012 and 2008 in close tandem. 2013, 2011, 2007 and 2006 are considered difficult vintages. The more recent but promising years probably need a bit more cellaring before delving into properly. While most good vintages require a number of years of cellaring, some of the difficult years can also be enjoyed quite early.

THE ARISTOCRAT OF THE MEDOC

auillac is considered the aristocrat of the Medoc due to its unique terroir and high concentration of chateaux enjoying Grand Cru Classe status. In 1855, Napolean III in order to showcase France’s best wines requested the Classification for Bordeaux wines. In practice, brokers and merchants already ranked chateaux and their wines according to quality and hence price. The classification officially recognized chateaux according to these historical prices from First Growth to Fifth Growth; a system which is more or less in place

today. 18 chateaux in Pauillac are Grand Cru Classes with another 6 enjoying Cru Bourgeois status (marginally below Fifth Growth Grand Cru). However some unclassified chateaux with wines in high demand due to their quality enjoy better ratings and prices. The majority of chateaux in Pauillac produce wines of a calibre that beneficially question the necessity for official ranking and offer exciting opportunities for discovering unsung wine heroes. The region itself received its AOC classification in the first round of 1936.

‘AN IRON FIST IN A VELVET GLOVE’ AND LEAD PENCIL SHAVINGS – PAUILLAC WINE STY LES

auillac has the kind of terroir and wine that is highly distinct but equally within that generalization, different soil compositions and microclimates, and differing winemaking styles and blends, result in distinct wines even from neighbouring chateaux. Indeed the top three chateaux are famous for having wines that are discernibly different as a result of distinct terroirs and winemaking styles. Lafite Rothschild is known for its restraint and subtly complex aromas, Latour for its bold power and Mouton Rothschild for its rich and exotic profile. Every winemaker skilfully emphasizes its own individualistic blend but broadly the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in a Pauillac wine is at least 70%, which provides the backbone in tannic structure and flavour (Latour and Mouton are some of the highest at over 75%). Merlot and Cabernet Franc are added to create softer more rounded blends or aid in difficult ripening years. On a lesser scale, Petit Verdot and/or Malbec are added to strengthen the tannic profile and intensity of colour; while Carmenere contributes spicy, smoky and red fruit flavours. Even if each chateau has its own distinct style, blends are altered from year to year in their pursuit of great wine. 42

Notwithstanding, Pauillac is considered the gold standard of what Bordeaux wine is all about, with wines that are famous for being dense, deep, concentrated, full bodied and tannic. They are both majestic in character and structure and yet elegant and austere. The predominant flavours are of blackcurrant, plum, black cherry, tobacco, cigar box, even lead pencil shavings; with aromas of spice, earth, cedar wood, and wet forest. Some have a delicate floral bouquet of violet, rose, iris, smoke or incense. The top wines have been best described as ‘an iron fist in a velvet glove’ due to their power and sophistication. Pauillac wines are also famed for their longevity due to their firm tannins that in good vintages can age and evolve for decades, even for a century or longer. Besides their ability to age well, Pauillac wines even from lesser chateaux are of consistently extraordinary quality, while also offering a diversity of styles and distinct flavours. Indeed many wine collectors have a preference for Pauillac due to their graceful combination of intensity and complexity and ability to convey a sense of place. Coming Next: St Estephe for Christmas.

PAUILLAC

This is Pauillac These wines have been chosen for their popular ratings, acclaim among wine critics, medium price point, rich terroir and great vintages. Our team has been given complimentary bottles from local suppliers to give our view on how they best express and characterize the various styles that characterize the appellation. Pauillac is a blend of grape varieties from a unique terroir that ranges from deep to shallower gravel soils or deeper alluvia further away from the river. Pauillac has made Cabernet Sauvignon famous as offering the best expression of this variety which is the predominant backbone of their wine; with Merlot and sometimes Cabernet Franc adding a mid-palate fruit, floral and wood dimension, especially in years where the late-ripening Sauvignon has been hard-pressed or to provide a more accessible younger wine. The gravel soils with their varying depths is what provides the rich serene austerity that deserves respectful aging and decanting if the true expression of the wine is to be enjoyed. While a signature minerality of flinty pencil shavings is also a hallmark of these soils, it is the complexity and depth of flavour and structure that makes Pauillac so savouringly delicious. Vintage is important only in terms of personal taste since Pauillac is one of the most consistently good Left Bank appellations. However in very broad brushstrokes from the bottles below: 2009 is a rich perfume and spice confection; 2010 is multifaceted, structured and bold with varying

degrees of intensity; 2012 is full-bodied fruit and well developed earthy notes; 2014 is an accessible year with a powerful balance of fruit, body and content. The wines have been placed in order of price, but roughly in order of full to more medium mouthfeel with highlights in character or style: Pauillac de Latour is rearing with power full of expression; D’Armailhac is voluptuous in fruit with great tertiary notes; Pedesclaux is perfect balance and structure with deep content; Le Cloître de Grand-Puy Ducasse is austere power and reserved opulence; Le Chartreuse de Croizet-Bages is an exotic spice and plump vintage; Tour Sieujean is soave and sleek all plum and wood. Bordeaux wines in the 40 to 70 euro price range when well-rated have all the panache and depth of much more expensive wines but are still enjoyable as being a cut above more massproduced cheaper wines. Pauillac is dominated by the high prices of its three main chateaux (Latour, Lafite and Mouton) who are the largest landowners in the appellation. While their grand vins are expensive, all three make other wines from their vineyards that are good value and of incredible calibre. The Bages motte has a few chateaux who have comparatively excellent wines at more accessible prices. Further away from the river, chateaux with slightly different terroir have a cheaper range of wines in a lighter style sometimes dominated by more Merlot. For the

better wines, vintage year is not so important since the well-draining soils allow Pauillac to make excellent wine even in very wet years. As for drinkability, the greater the wine the more aging required with some chateaux opting to style a second wine for early drinking. Differing vintage years are a blessing in disguise in also providing wines more accessible in price and needing less aging to enjoy (2014 is a drinker, in contrast, the structured 2010 is a keeper). Optimum years are worth delving into less classified wines since the vintage year guarantees a good value calibre throughout the appellation, especially in the case of Pauillac. In general the Vivino popular ratings tend to be overly critical, whereas the wine critic ratings ironically can be more spot on. Young to medium aged red wines should be decanted for a few minutes to a few if not many hours (depending on personal preference and age and type of vintage) to increase aeration and allow the wine to soften and unfurl its character and bouquet (it can be well worth the wait especially with full-bodied Pauillac – the gravel austerity makes wines that are strong but reserved requiring patience). Red wine should be served at 15 degrees.

The tasting notes are deliberately by a wine aficionado not by a professional sommelier. If wine is good it should be distinguishable to amateurs otherwise there would be no public interest.

FOR OTHER TASTING NOTES ON WONDERFUL WINES JOIN US ON INSTAGRAM/FIRSTTHISISWINE Above, from left to right: Château Tour Sieujean, La Chartreuse de Croizet-Bages, Le Pauillac de Latour, Château d'Armailhac, Le Cloître De Grand-Puy Ducasse, and Château Pédesclaux. 43

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Le Pauillac de Latour 2012

Château d’Armailhac 2014

Le Cloître De Grand-Puy Ducasse 2010

3rd wine of First Growth Grand Cru Classe Château Latour €69 from Farsonsdirect Vivino popular rating 4.1/5; Jeff Leve 90/100 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot/Cabernet Franc Terroir: average 40-year-old vines on what is considered the best land in Bordeaux at the southern end of Pauillac.

Fifth Growth Grand Cru Classe €65 from Mirachem Vivino popular rating 4/5; Jeff Leve 90/100 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot Terroir: average 50-year-old vines (some are the oldest in Pauillac at 120 years old) on two main parcels of land mostly gravel with sand, clay and limestone subsoils.

2nd wine of Fifth Growth Grand Cru Classe Château Grand-Puy Ducasse €58.41 from Attard & Co. Wines Vivino popular rating 4/5; Wine-Searcher popular rating 4/5 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon Terroir: 25-year-old vines on three groups of parcels of gravel, clay and sand soils dispersed in the appellation.

TASTING NOTES: THE BLACK PRINCE. SLOWROASTED SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH ROSEMARY, MINT, GARLIC AND A TOUCH OF ANCHOVY.

TASTING NOTES: A MAN FOR ALL SEASONS – ROASTED LAMB CHOPS WITH MINT SAUCE.

TASTING NOTES: ANNA KARENINA – SHEPHERD’S PIE WITH LASHINGS OF THICK GRAVY AND CHEDDAR CHEESE.

Pauillac de Latour 2012 is deep garnet in colour with a soft cherry red halo. The initial bouquet is a wrapped up amuse-bouche of creamy walnut, caramelized date and orange rind, cinnamon and nutmeg. The tertiary notes are already quite developed and neatly integrated with a reassuring backdrop of light cedar, tobacco, pencil shavings and forest floor. The plump fruit aromas of dark plum and cassis follow through in the flavours with a symphony of colours on the attack, mid-bodied strength on the palate, and cherry and almond finish. A fresh acidity and tongue-wrapping tannic structure adds shape to the sensory overdrive to make good on its promise that this can age and decant with good reward. After three hours the spring and autumn aromas have folded into a deeper summer and winter expression of riper and bolder fruit and wetter earth. Velvety textures, with more chew and a longer finish, add length and drive, with some of the wood notes morphing into baked clove and tree bark, game and herb. I suggest decanting this wine for as long as desired to relish a wider spectrum of flavours to accompany the already well-knit explosion of aromas.This wine is all about connectivity and expression: gravel, clay, limestone, inclement weather, and vines, vying to make the best grapes possible only to end up in a majestic concoction that only Pauillac can deliver with perfect poise and cerebral architecture.

Supplier details: Farsonsdirect also has Château Latour, Pichon Longueville, Clerc Milon, Pontet-Canet, LynchBages, Grand Puy-Lacoste, Lafite Rothschild, Les Grandes Murailles, Mouton Rothschild among others. Farsonsdirect, The Brewery, Mdina Road, B’Kara. Tel 00356 2381 4444. Web farsonsdirect.com 44

On opening Château d’Armailhac 2014 is a deep velvety red verging on the purple at the core. All plum fruit and orchard hits the air with cassis and dark cherry in trail and a comforting backdrop of baked apple pie spices; cinnamon, vanilla and clove. The attack is an audacious full-bodied bevy of dark fruit with a searing acidity, a medium dry palate, all ending in a plush tart cranberry finish. A vein of deep minerality rears its beautiful head with signature pencil shavings, creamy chalk and wet undergrowth forest floor. The Merlot and Cabernet are already in full swing but the lush tannins hint that this can be stored for the long haul. Upon decanting for three hours the aromas and flavours have merged into a ripe fruit-plucking autumn with bold timbre cedar and tobacco giving structure to a bountiful harvest. The already soft tannins have gone softer to reveal a more enduringly refined finish marked by an acidity that lures you on to savour more. I suggest decanting this wine to enjoy its full expression even if drinking straight from the bottle has its charms.The complexity of both primary and tertiary notes are a testament to an envious terroir of both gravel and clay lending themselves perfectly to a vintage that already has a Pomerol core opulence to the Merlot/Franc blend wrapped in a Pauillac power at each turn.The structure is all there but equally the voluptuous content, making this grand vin one of the most collectible and endearing with its illustrious owner clearly pouring some of the Mouton Rothschild kudos into each bottle.

Supplier details: Mirachem also has Château D’Armailhac 2012 and 2015, Lynch Bages 2014 and 2016, and Fleur de Pedesclaux 2015. Mirachem, Mira Building, Triq Kan K Pirotta, B’Kara. Tel 00356 2148 8590. Web wine.mt

Upon opening Le Cloitre de Grand-Puy Ducasse 2010 is a deep garnet red verging on the scarlet. The initial bouquet is of soft dry flowers; rosehip and violet; autumn leaves, dense fruit and chocolate pudding. The wine already at this stage is full swing spring turned into lush summer. On the palate more fruit; dark plum, cassis and maraschino cherry are laced in a veil of vanilla, nutmeg and flinty pencil. The mouthfeel is full fruit on the attack and mid-palate with mild acidity and supple tannins unfolding to a sherry mid-dry long finish. The wood notes are soft, elegant and understated with a serene but rich austerity. Gamey undertones of roasted caramelized gammon attest to the gracious aging. The wine is mildly bold, medium-bodied and well integrated. Upon decanting for an hour the wood and floral notes have shifted to darker autumn with deeper plum and berry. Upon further decanting the Merlot has risen more to the occasion with plumper undertones where the Cabernet has graced the structure with power and verve. Creamy textures throughout attest to a stellar vintage year ripe for the drinking, but this can age effortlessly with good reward. Savour at the moment of opening but decant for as long as one wishes to enjoy different tones and nuances of a Pauillac with understated power and opulence. With all the intricate filigree of Merlot, the gravel-grown Cabernet blossoms in all its regal splendour in magnificent and luscious union.

Supplier details: Attard & Co. Wines has a range of Bordeaux wines in the Cordier portfolio with a number of Pauillacs. Attard & Co. Wines, Canter House, P. Felicjan Bilocca Str., Marsa. Tel 00356 2123 7555 (Gozo Outlet: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria. Tel: 00356 2156 4570). Web attardcowines.com

ST EMILION

Château Pedesclaux 2014

Le Chartreuse de Croizet-Bages 2009

Fifth Growth Grand Cru Classe €53.63 from S. Rausi Trading Ltd Vivino popular rating 4/5; Overall critics 90/100 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot Terroir: 35 average-year-old vines on varying parcels of land all gravel over clay subsoil.

Cordier negociant wine of Fifth Growth Grand Cru Classe Château Croizet-Bages €50.40 from Attard & Co.Wines Wine-Searcher rating 4/5 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc Terroir: 35-year-old vines on one contiguous parcel of land on the Bages plateau.Terroir of gravel and sand soils.

TASTING NOTES: DANCE OF THE FAUN – ROASTED DUCK OR GOOSE BASTED IN THEIR DRIPPINGS WITH SIDE ORDERS OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND POTATOES. Château Pedesclaux 2014 is a deep garnet red verging on the crimson with a plush satin density. On the nose a bittersweet almond orchard with woody wafts of dry leaf, cigar box and leather laced in gun powder flint shavings and spiked in clove, cinnamon and aniseed. On the attack layers upon layers of berries; both fresh and forest; with savoury notes of light game, goose or duck with their trimmings; in quick succession giving way to a nice tangy acidity mid dry full-bodied mouthfeel and supple but serene finish. Afterthoughts of geranium and liquorice also come to mind. This wine is rearing to show its true colours but already sports its pedigree even at this stage. Upon decanting for three hours the previously reticent Merlot has taken its rightful place with strawberry and raspberry drippings while the Cabernet Sauvignon has filled in the details with more chew and delicious plum. This is for all intents and purposes a poster child for a well valued grand vin with great architecture but with perfect poise and super balance like a trapeze gymnast. But this needs time and patience to unfold even for a vintage that can be enjoyed on the younger side. I suggest decanting for a good while if you want Pauillac to live up to its storied name. The complex and textured aromas are all there for the taking – to translate into flavours that can be savoured with relish; yet with all the trappings of good shape and form.

Supplier details: S. Rausi Trading has a large range of French wines with an emphasis on Bordeaux. S Rausi Trading Ltd, Empire Stadium Str, Gzira. Tel 00356 2131 6210. Web srausi.com/shop

TASTING NOTES: THE BLACK FOREST – ROASTED PEKING DUCK WITH PANCAKES AND SPICY PLUM SAUCE. In appearance Le Chartreuse de Croizet-Bages 2009 is a scarlet red with a dark amber halo. The first notes are of deep timbre, oak and tobacco, cherry and allspice. The wine is already well fused into a bouquet of exotic spice with hidden depths. Caramelized onion, creamy molasses and unctuous rose all make their mark in quick succession. Upon tasting the flavours are as wild, savoury and oriental with dark and red fruit; prune and cherry; keeping everything in check. The attack is of pleasant fruit with a medium body weight; soft supple structure in acidity and dryness; and strong finish. Upon decanting for three hours the wine unfolds effortlessly to more of the same only even more integrated and with more volume; a stronger expression in the mid-palate; and a more rounded finish. The outer shell of flinty lead pencil and mint gives a vein of sleek minerality, while the spices and wood have turned more roasted and baked. The fruit have evolved to dark forest berries and dry leaves.

Château Tour Sieujean 2014 Cru Bourgeois €31 from Farsonsdirect Vivino popular rating 4.2/5; Overall Critics 85/100 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot Terroir: small family-owned estate with gravel and gravel and clay soils further west from the Gironde estuary in the Saint Laurent Medoc commune. TASTING NOTES: THE BEAUTY AND THE BEAST – ROASTED PORK FILLETS WITH APPLE CHUTNEY. In appearance Tour Sieujean 2014 is a mid garnet dark red plum. On the nose purple plum, woody cedar and oak, spicy cigar box and peppery anise come flowing through with an ambiance of misty autumn leaves soon following. On the palate the attack is strong on the dry notes with a medium body mouth feel and a sweet plum and almond finish. Soft acidity and smooth textures wrap around the structure with a signature graphite note hallmarking the Cabernet grape on gravel soil. Upon decanting for three hours the warm summer flavours have folded in to reveal more of a wet winter feel. The plum has gone more prune and olive, and the spice has turned to powerful musk and chocolate. Fleshier textures put more muscle on the svelt body with the Merlot possibly quelling or accompanying some of the louder Cabernet notes to a Pauillac of better standing.

Despite its venerable age I suggest decanting this wine for a few hours to let it unfold and blossom to reveal its inner depths.While having all the pedigree of a Left bank wine in structure and balance, the rich blend and exotic spice confection give a luscious dimension which is both a mark of the plump spice-inflected vintage and the specific terroir of gravel and sand. This is a fortunate combination of good things which are exceptional to savour.

I suggest decanting this wine for a while to allow a better expression of what this is all about.The shallow gravel soils give rise to a lighter kind of Pauillac that gives Cabernet Sauvignon a better run for those keen on milder reds than the more structured fare this region is famous for (Hence the gap in popular vs professional ratings). All the while the plump plum, cedar and spice dimension give a Left bank pedigree to a wine that can be drunk relatively young especially for this vintage.

THIS IS WINE

BORDEAUX – RIGHT BANK – CÔTES DE BORDEAUX – CÔTES DE FRANCS

MOON-GAZ ING AT LE PUY BIODY NAMICS FOR BEGINNERS Vigneron rule of law: don’t do to vines and wines what you wouldn’t want done to you. The French have a term for delicious wines which is not entirely translatable even if it can be taken literally. Digestibilite is the art of a wines’ ability to be so good that it is all consuming. And this word comes to mind when looking at a tiny region with a 50 hectare vineyard run by a 400 year old plus wine making family who are pioneers in biodynamic farming, writes Kris Bonavita. Main landscape and vineyard photography courtesy Le Puy, wine photography First Magazine.

ay before organic farming was even a la mode or part of modern appellation requirements, a movement in the 1920s gave rise to the idea that following the patterns of the moon and being attentive to the requirements of the earth could lead to a way of growing vines and making wines that could be just that bit a cut above the rest. The pursuit of good wine is ultimately about trying to extract the best possible expression of terroir from vines and their grapes which lead to wines that are so particular and distinctly good no one can mistake them for anything else.

This page: The Le Puy estate extends itself around a Bronze Age megalithic circle with half of its land dedicated to forests, ponds, pastures, fruit trees, bee-keeping and perma-culture to help foster the right environment for the vines to give their best. Photograph © ONEWINEPRODUCTION. 46

BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK

Fortuitously great vintage on the 80 year old birthday of grandfather Jean Pierre Amoreau:

THIS IS LE PUY EMILIEN 2018

hile moon watching and earth nurturing are nothing new, in fact they are as ancient as we are human, the level to which the chateau adheres to natural means rather than facile artificial chemical herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers is verging on the heroic. But with ample rewards; Chateau Le Puy has its followers and some vintages reach cult-like prices and can age gracefully for decades for good reason. The Chateau Le Puy 2003 vintage was called the best wine in the world in the Japanese manga comic Drops of God deeming it ‘a miracle wine… produced for 400 years without a drop of pesticide’. Ten kilometres east of St Emilion but still on the same limestone plateau lies one of the smallest and possibly least known or overlooked terroirs; Côtes de Francs, whose claim to fame is having some of the highest altitude vineyards in Bordeaux. Furthest away from the maritime influence of other Bordeaux regions, Côtes de Francs has the least rain and some of the coolest elevations ensuring a fresh acidity balances the full ripening of the grapes and leading to a gracious complexity in the wines that can be aged well. Forming part of a now larger wine region known as Côtes de Bordeaux, the Right Bank appellation of about 500 hectares is like its more famous neighbours a prime grower of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Within this setting the highlight of the geographic region, even if officially they opted out of the appellation, is the historic Amoreau family-run chateau that traces its foundations to 1610. Just as well the estate extends itself around a Bronze Age megalithic circle with half of its land dedicated to forests, ponds, pastures, fruit trees, bee-keeping and perma-culture to help foster the right environment for the vines to give their best. Attentive observation of the cycles of the moon and seasons is applied to organic vine-growing and wine-making practices, over and above maintaining a healthy soil and ecosystem. The molly coddled vines produce grapes which make up a number of blends or cuvees, the flagship one of which is Emilien; named after a vigneron ancestor but with ring tones of St Emilion in its soave structure and seamless blend balance.

€50 from Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s Vivino popular average vintage and Winery rating: 4/5 Overall critics rating: 89/100 Terroir: On the same limestone plateau as St Emilion the elevated limestone clay slopes are well suited to 50 year old vines leading to well structured wines.This blend is a summation of all they grow: 85% Merlot, 7% Cab Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec, 1% Camenere. Vigneron-style: Reverently traditional, the chateau has always been organic with horse driven ploughs, manual harvesting, native yeast fermentation and slow soft infusion, no new oak and without chaptalisation, fining or filtration. Vigneron: Amoreau family. TASTING NOTES: THE ROARING LIONESS – THICK RABBIT STEW WITH CHUNKS OF FRESH BAKED CRUSTY BREAD SMOTHERED IN BUTTER AND MUSTARD. On first opening Le Puy 2018 is a bright crimson cherry-red robe with a plush glowing red halo. On the nose a full bouquet of cedar, cherries, cigarbox and truffle-like forest floor pervade the air with crispy mint and liquorice giving rise to the crystal-clear minerality. Upon tasting a gamut of red fruit; cherries, rhubarb and wild berries; are cushioned with wafts of soft spring flowers, apple, pomegranate and mace. All the while a refreshing signature acidity dances on the palate to the tune of smooth roaring tannins and a dry tongue-tingling strong finish. The wine is medium-bodied, full of structure and composure that drinks well at a young fruitful age of a great vintage but equally already sports its calibre. This is going to age well, gracefully and for the long haul. After decanting for three hours the mid-palate aromas and flavours unfold with a wider spectrum of red fruit (think plum and red currant) and fleshier and meatier secondary and tertiary notes in sync. The wine has blushed to a deeper red; the florality has gone from spring meadows to autumn forest brambles; the spices from fresh herb to baked cinnamon and roasted nuts. The deep integrity and wide complexity are a good sign of the potential and expression of Merlot and Cabernet grapes grown on the right soils with the right pedigree. I would decant this wine for a few good hours to get the full expression of a still young vintage but dip in from the moment of opening to relish a steep-learning experience of what heights wine made with purity and precision can reach.The outer shape of this wine is totally in keeping with Right Bank heavy weights but has a somewhat, dare I say, Burgundian philosophical core in the way all the complexity is wrapped up and dancing or discreetly evolving in our midst, almost as if it was made from one grape.This is both one to drink and to cellar.

Supplier details: Vini e Capricci also have (Chateau) Le Puy Emilien in other vintages in two formats: 75cl: 2017 €53; 2005 €288; 1995 €336; Magnums: 2016 €121; 2000 €688; 1998 €704. Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s, Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija Gozo. Tel 00356 2156 3231. Web viniecapricci.com

Left: Horses are used for ploughing instead of tractors to prevent over compaction of the soil; the lifeblood of healthy vines. While horses snack on grapes they fortunately are not partial to wine. Horse ploughing in Le Puy. In this picture, Anne-Sophie and Eric, who own the horses (Unique in white and Theo in brown). Photograph © Rodolphe Escher. 47

COMFORT FOOD “Beef Wellington has to be the ultimate indulgence, one of my all-time favourite main courses, and it will definitely be on my last supper menu.” Gordon Ramsay

Fit for a Duke Wellington

n June 18 1815 Arthur Wellesley, already the 1st Duke of Wellington, famously defeated Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo. His long political career would later see him become Prime Minister twice. While being supposedly indifferent to food, Wellington did have a favourite and is reputed to have requested a dish consisting of beef, mushrooms, Madeira wine, and pate cooked in a pastry shell for every dinner he hosted. While the idea of cooking beef in a pastry shell dates back centuries, by the time Wellington became famous, it was a wellestablished part of English cuisine. Closely resembling the French filet de boeuf en croute, the dish may have been renamed patriotically Beef Wellington after the Battle of Waterloo – rather than being created specifically for the Duke. In the late 1950s the dish saw a resurgence in popularity (it was Richard Nixon's favourite meal) and set Wellington as a 'vintage' star dish, on par with classics like Baked Alaska. Most recently Gordon Ramsay has given Beef Wellington new life, declaring it his signature dish. It remains his favourite dish to cook at Christmas. While the original Wellington recipe is made using beef tenderloin, Mediterranean Culinary Academy's recipe is a take on the famous dish, shaped likewise, using mushroom duxelles to encase the loin. The difference lies in using locally sourced pork tenderloin and prosciutto to encase the pork.

While the original Wellington recipe is made using beef tenderloin, Mediterranean Culinary Academy's recipe is a take on the famous dish, shaped likewise, using mushroom duxelles to encase the loin. The difference lies in using locally sourced pork tenderloin and prosciutto to encase the pork. Cooking Mediterranean Culinary Academy, photography Robert Pace. 49

COMFORT FOOD

ROUGH PUFF PASTRY This quick version of puff pastry doesn't involve all the rolling and turning of real puff, but gives a homemade pastry made with butter which gives an exceptional special flavour. The secret lies in using partially frozen butter. This pastry can also be used for both savoury pies and sweet tarts. 350g all-purpose flour 200g grated frozen butter 60g grated frozen butter 7g salt 140ml cold water juice from 1/2 lemon

1. Combine flour, salt and 60g butter in a bowl. Rub butter into flour quickly. 2. Add lemon juice and water, a tablespoon at a time, while mixing with a wooden spoon or your fingertips to bring dough together. 3. Add enough water to form a firm dough (that is not too wet). 4. Knead dough on a floured surface for about a minute and leave to rest for about 5 minutes (in the fridge). 5. Roll dough out into a long rectangle (about 6-7 inches wide, and 15- 16 inches long). 6. Sprinkle 100g grated butter on 2/3 area of rectangle. 7. Fold over portion without butter, towards the middle. 8. Then fold other end over first fold. You have completed one fold. 9. Turn dough 90 degrees and roll out to form another long rectangle. 10. Repeat with rest of butter and fold over. You have completed 2nd fold with second lamination. 11. Wrap the dough in cling film or waxed paper and refrigerate until needed. 12. Allow to rest at least 1 hour before using. 50

COMFORT FOOD

MUSHROOM DUXELLES

180g button mushrooms, finely chopped 50g shallots, peeled and finely chopped 1tsp rosemary, finely chopped 15g butter olive oil as needed salt, pepper and coriander seed as needed

Mushroom duxelles, a flavourful mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots, and herbs, cooked in butter to a paste-like consistency, was created by the 17th-century French chef François Pierre La Varenne (1615-1678) while in charge of the kitchens of the Marquis d'Uxelles. Burgundian by birth, La Varenne was one of the great chefs and culinary writers of the time, and the author of Le Cuisinier François (1651), one of the most influential cookbooks in early modern French cuisine.

1. Cook mushrooms in a pan over high heat with a splash of olive oil. 2. Stir every minute or so and cook until all moisture has been removed and mushrooms lightly browned. 3. Clear a space in centre of pan, add butter and allow to melt. Add shallots, rosemary and a good pinch of salt and cook until pan is dry and shallot has softened. 4. Season with ground black pepper and coriander seed and cook for 1 more minute. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Remove from pan and leave to cool. 51

COMFORT FOOD

WELLINGTON PORK EN CROUTE For this take on Wellington, the mushroom duxelles is wrapped around the tenderloin with prosciutto crudo. SERVES 2 200g pork tenderloin 100g mushroom duxelles 1 double sheet filo pastry 4 slices prosciutto crudo 1 sheet rough puff pastry 2 egg yolks Dijon mustard to taste black pepper, ground to taste coriander seed, ground to taste salt to taste

1. Sear fillet to an even golden brown. Season liberally with Dijon mustard, salt, finely ground coriander and black pepper and allow to cool. 2. Lay a large length of cling film or waxed paper on worktop. 3. Lay a double sheet of filo pastry over one section of cling film or paper, separately lay prosciutto crudo, making a 15cm by 25cm rectangle. 4. Place a fine layer of duxelles over prosciutto, covering a 13cm by 20cm rectangle. 5. Place pork tenderloin across duxelles. 6. Roll prosciutto layer to secure and roll up filo pastry to follow. Tuck in edges around tenderloin and remove any excess pastry. Wrap tightly in cling film or waxed paper. 7. Roll out puff pastry into a large rectangle and chill well before using. 8. Combining egg yolks with pinch of salt and few drops of water

to make egg wash. 9. Lay out pastry, dock with a fork and brush with egg wash. 10. Centre filo parcel with one side of pastry, cutting pastry to line up with pork. 11. Roll up pastry until only 2cm of pastry overlaps itself. Push lightly to seal with egg wash and cut off excess. This overlap becomes base of pastry. 12. Fold in edges and press down lightly with a fork. Score pastry surface with the back of a knife for presentation purposes and brush lightly with egg wash. Allow to rest in fridge for 15 minutes. 13. Preheat oven to 200C and insert a baking tray to heat. 14. Remove Wellington from fridge, brush again with egg wash and sprinkle lightly with finishing salt. 15. Place onto baking tray and bake for 30 minutes or until a thermometer comes out and reads 55C. Allow to rest for 5 minutes. Slice and serve immediately. 53

COMFORT FOOD

CITRUS AND GREEN SALAD This light simple salad complements the richness of the Wellington. SERVES 1-2 FOR THE DRESSING 10g Dijon mustard 45ml extra virgin olive oil juice of half a lemon salt to taste black pepper ground to taste coriander seed ground to taste lemon zest to taste

FOR THE SALAD small bunch lettuce wedge cabbage, thinly sliced 1 orange, peeled and cut into small pieces 1 spring onion, thinly sliced 1 fennel, thinly sliced parsley to taste herbs to taste

1. For dressing, add lemon juice to a small jar. Add remaining ingredients and shake to combine and emulsify. Set aside. 2. Combine all salad ingredients in a bowl and toss together with enough dressing to lightly coat.

10% discount for Mediterranean Culinary Academy's Wellington Workshop Thursday 9th December Recipes are from The Mediterranean Culinary Academy's collection developed by their chef instructors and taken from a Wellington Workshop which will run Thursday 9th December. To reserve space and benefit from a 10% discount visit www.mcamalta.com or email contact@mcamalta.com – use code Firstmag10 Share your creations by tagging @mca_malta or sending MCA a photo on their socials. 54

FASHION “Silk does for the body what diamonds do for the hand.” Oscar de la Renta

FASHION

Lacuna Saz Speaks Silk Starting out as a painter, designer Saz Mifsud longed to see the rich colours she produces in her artworks on the clothes she wore. This inspired her and in 2013 she started creating digital collages using her own photographs and paintings. Saz digitally printed her designs onto pure silk and was immediately captivated by the richness of the colourful silks. Once the designs were printed, the silks were beautifully hand-crafted to create a versatile range of accessories and thus a brand was born. Difficult times inspired her latest collection - Lacuna. Photography Suzi Mifsud.

Opposite page: Inka Silk Shawl, available in 100% silk satin or 100% silk chiffon. Left: Azul Silk Wool Scarf, in a silk and wool blend with a fringed edge. Centre: Speculo Half Moon Bag in 100% silk satin. Right: Speculo Neckerchief in 100% silk satin.

az Mifsud's new collection, Lacuna, features silk scarves, headbands, handbags and shawls, all in keeping with the designer’s brand. But the collection came after a very tough time in her life, “it came at a time when I was reflecting a lot on the meaning of things: what friendship is, what love is, what grief is, what loss is and how blurred the lines can be between one and the other.” Reflection plays a key role in the collection. While Lacuna has its origins in a time filled with strong emotion, it also evokes calm and serenity, the result of an artist confident at facing her feelings yet having the strength and talent to reign them, and filter them out again

with grace and reserve. Lacuna – the Latin word for pond, also defined as an unfilled space, is apt perhaps, as she experienced a time in her life in which she felt emptiness, uncertainty and chaos; but also excitement, as it left behind a space filled with possibility. While the collection may have its origins in difficult times, it is also a testament to hope and aspiration. The collection was created from Sazʼs photographs of the reflections of buildings, trees and boats as she walked along Regentʼs Canal in London. “The myriad of autumnal shades, depicted through varied reflections thus come to mirror warmth and prospect, and to hopefully bring joy to all those who wear them. Let Lacuna hypnotise you with its dreamy reflections, moody, blue-lit nights, auburn hues and ochre foliage.”

HEALTH & FITNESS

WHILE CYCLING CAN MAKE YOU STRONGER – BOTH MENTALLY AND PHYSICALLY, IT PLAYS A KEY ROLE IN IMPROVING CITIES AND FIGHTING CLIMATE CHANGE.

5 BENEFITS OF CYCLING Since their first appearance at the dawn of the 19th century, bicycles have proven to be a great way of getting about and staying healthy. Today, they are also a crucial part of the fight against climate change. Across the world, cities are making themselves more cycle-friendly to cut emissions and improve air quality. But not all of the benefits of cycling can be measured by heart and pollution monitors. The World Economic Forum’s 2020 report Guidelines for City Mobility called on city authorities and mobility partners to collaborate to repurpose car parking spaces for use by sustainable alternatives like cycle infrastructure and bicycle parking. Here are five ways bikes are making the world a better place, writes Douglas Broom, Senior Writer, Formative Content on World Economic Forum’s AGENDA.

CYCLING PROJECTS AROUND THE WORLD

Around the world countries are tapping in to the benefits of cycling with projects that give more access to nature. In September 2019 the UK launched an 800mile trail to promote access to the countryside. Linking the Peak District to Scotland’s most northerly mainland points for the first time, The Great North Trail was created to answer a demand from cyclists for greater access to the countryside on routes largely away from traffic. Around 98 per cent of the Great North Trail is on bridleways, byways, cycle routes, unpaved roads and very low traffic minor roads. This page: The Peak District. Photograph Jose Llamas. 59

HEALTH & FITNESS

HUMAN HEALTH

arly on in the COVID-19 pandemic, the World Health Organization recommended cycling as a good way to exercise during lockdowns. Cycling also burns calories - roughly 300 an hour – and has been shown to reduce the risk of developing diabetes by 40%. Doctors say cycling lowers your blood pressure, increases the level of good cholesterol that carries away fat from your arteries. Some researchers have found evidence that cycling can also reduce harmful cholesterol too.

AIR POLLUTION Researchers at Oxford University in the UK found that emissions from cycling are up to 30 times lower for each trip than driving a fossil fuel car and about ten times lower than driving an electric one. They say focusing on electric vehicles alone will not cut pollution because of the emissions generated by making them and the batteries that power them. The study found that people who used a bike for their daily travel had generated 84% less carbon emission than those who didn’t.

CYCLING PROJECTS The US is building a bike trail that will run coast-to-coast. The Great American Rail-Trail is the nation’s first cross-country 2 multiuse trail, stretching about 6,000km between Washington, D.C. and Washington State. This will make it possible to pedal across the entire country on a safe, seamless and scenic pathway – or walk a local trail that connects along historic routes. This page: Panhandle Trail, located in West Virginia and Pennsylvania. Photograph Milo Bateman, courtesy Rails-to-Trails Conservancy. 61

NEWLY LAUNCHED COMMUNITY SERVICES BY ACTIVE AGEING AND COMMUNITY CARE PSYCHOTHERAPY SERVICE The psychotherapy service in residential homes has now been extended to the elderly living in the community. “The need to extend the psychotherapy service in the community was raised due to the increase in number of elderly who experienced difficulties attributable to the pandemic” stated Minister for Senior Citizens and Active Ageing, Michael Farrugia during the press conference to announce the extension of the service. Psychotherapy helps people who have difficulties on an emotional and behavioural level. Through psychotherapy, the person can identify and change these emotions, thoughts, and behaviours with the aim of living a better quality of life. The psychotherapy service can help senior citizens in Residential Homes as well as in the community to address issues that may be contributing to emotional difficulties. The service is provided in three community clinics in Żurrieq, Birkirkara and Mtarfa. Senior citizens in the community may be asked to attend individual or group sessions, depending on the presenting complaint.

For further information contact us or visit the website:

+356 2278 8800

aacc-services@gov.mt

Active Ageing and Community Care

activeagaeing.gov.mt

DOMICILIARY DIETITIAN SERVICE A new dietitian service for senior citizens. Minister for Senior Citizens and Active Ageing Michael Farrugia announced the engaging of a dietitian service with the aim of continuing to promote a better quality of life among senior citizens, as well as keeping them away from diseases as much as possible. The Domiciliary Dietitian Service is designed to assess, diagnose, and treat diet and nutrition problems. This service aims to provide access to housebound senior citizens to obtain a comprehensive dietetic assessment. The service includes: • Initial dietetic assessment and follow-up visits according to the client’s needs • Advice on the appropriate diet for specific clinical/ medical conditions • Training, advice and support to caregivers or other healthcare professionals

SILVER T SERVICE

A new pilot project launched to extend the free transport service to new locations. Minister Farrugia announced that the free transport service will now be extended to another two locations – Naxxar and Għargħur. The service consists of providing local transport for older persons to conduct their day-to-day errands within the community, without having to depend on their families, relatives, and friends.

HEALTH & FITNESS MENTAL WELLBEING

t’s not just your physical health that can be improved by cycling. Doctors say cycling reduces stress by stimulating your body to produce endorphins, hormones that relieve stress and reduce pain. Endorphins also help fight depression. Experts say that cycling promotes a state of mindfulness where you focus on the present rather than worrying about the cares of daily life, which helps reduce anxiety. Many people also enjoy the sense of achievement they get when they hit a self-imposed cycling goal.

BETTER CITIES As cities become more cycle-friendly they also become safer and less stressful places to live. Creating safe spaces for cyclists and pedestrians encourages people to swap cars for bicycles for the majority of journeys which are less than 5km, experts say. Across the world, city authorities used COVID-19 lockdowns as an opportunity to create new cycle lanes including in the Afghan city of Kandahar. France alone is spending about 19 million euro to launch a “step forward in cycling culture” including free bike repairs and cycle training.

CYCLING PROJECTS The Nelson Street Cycleway is a cycle skyway built above 3 Auckland’s (New Zealand) busy road system. The most well-known section is Te Ara I Whiti, the Lightpath – a hot pink state-of-the-art system crosses Aukland’s central road network – giving cyclists and in some areas pedestrians, safe and easy access around the city. This page: The Pink Path, The Nelson Street Cycleway, Auckland. Photograph Thant Zin Oo.

FIGHTING CLIMATE CHANGE A 2015 study found that if just over a fifth of urban journeys now made by car were made by bike it would cut global urban transport emissions by 7% or 300 megatonnes of CO2 by 2050. A study in the UK found that cycling’s carbon footprint is just 21g of CO2 per kilometre. That’s even less than walking or going by bus and 75% of the emissions come from growing the food to feed the cyclist. The rest are generated by manufacturing the bike – researchers calculated that building a 20kg Dutch commuter bike generates just 96kg of CO2. This article first appeared on World Economic Forum’s AGENDA.

DIABETES

Will the Real Slim Shady Please Stand Up? This one simple lifestyle change could help prevent diabetes and other deadly diseases, according to a new study. 1 in 11 people worldwide lives with diabetes, which causes 1.5 million deaths worldwide each year. The UN’s Sustainable Development Goal number 3 targets a one-third reduction in deaths attributable to non-communicable diseases, by 2030. A new study has discovered that standing up during long periods of sitting can reduce the chances of developing type 2 diabetes, even if someone is overweight. The findings, published in the Journal of Science and Medicine in Sport, found that when study participants interrupted long periods of sitting by standing up, their insulin function improved, writes Johnny Wood. Photography Elia Pellegrini.

t’s time to take a stand against chronic lifestyle diseases… literally. Standing can help prevent serious health conditions like type 2 diabetes, new research suggests. Scientists from Finland’s Turku PET Centre and UKK Institute have discovered a link between standing and better insulin sensitivity. Insulin helps regulate body metabolism and blood sugar levels. But factors like being overweight can disturb how the body’s insulin hormone functions, leading to a reduction in insulin sensitivity and an increased risk of developing chronic conditions like type 2

diabetes. People with diabetes are susceptible to complications like stroke, blindness, kidney failure and heart disease, and at increased risk of premature death. One in 11 people worldwide lives with the disease, which causes 1.5 million deaths worldwide each year. While it’s no secret that physical exercise can help with diabetes and other noncommunicable diseases, the study

in Finland was unusual in that it looked closely at how periods of inactivity impact insulin production. The findings, published in the Journal of Science and Medicine in Sport, found that when study participants interrupted long periods of sitting by standing up, their insulin function improved, even for inactive adults at higher risk of developing type 2 diabetes. Standing improved insulin

regardless of how long a participant sat, their activity and fitness levels, or whether they were overweight. “This association has not been shown before,” Taru Garthwaite, one of the study’s authors, told Science Daily. “These findings further encourage replacing a part of daily sitting time with standing, especially if physical activity recommendations are not met.” Taken from an article originally published in World Economic Forum Oct 5th, 2021. Johnny Wood is a Senior Writer at Formative Content, World Economic Forum.

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS

Lessons from the Dead Sea The Dead Sea – in Hebrew: Yam Ha-Melakh (the Sea of Salt) is the lowest point on earth. It is surrounded by the stunning Negev Desert. The high salinity means that no fish or plants can survive. The other result is that you can float naturally in them, and also the health and healing properties of the mud with high mineral content. Tours to the Dead Sea are available from across Israel to enjoy the experience making it a popular backdrop for holiday snaps and Instagram pics for visitors from around the world. Indeed The Dead Sea has attracted visitors from around the Mediterranean Basin for thousands of years. It was one of the world's first health resorts (for Herod the Great), and it has been the supplier of a wide variety of products, from asphalt for Egyptian mummification to potash for fertilisers. The reality though is that The Dead Sea is disappearing, and receding dramatically by nearly a metre a year, with dramatic landscape changes and environmental challenges and being overrun by sinkholes. 'The Dead Sea Revival Project' has a vision of the rehabilitation of the historical water flow to the Dead Sea from the Sea of Galilee and the Jordan River. Photography this page: The Dead Sea Israel, Dave Herring.

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS “People must feel that the natural world is important and valuable and beautiful and wonderful and an amazement and a pleasure.” “The truth is: the natural world is changing. And we are totally dependent on that world. It provides our food, water and air. It is the most precious thing we have and we need to defend it.” Sir David Attenborough

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS “Young people – they care. They know that this is the world that they're going to grow up in, that they're going to spend the rest of their lives in. But, I think it's more idealistic than that. They actually believe that humanity, human species, has no right to destroy and despoil regardless.” Sir David Attenborough

n the October edition of FIRST we featured American photographer Spencer Tunick's latest photography project. About 200 people covered in just white body paint walked across scorched earth near the Dead Sea in an art installation meant to highlight the dramatic changes happening to this famous – and well loved – body of water. Known for his large scale nude shoots around the world, this was the third time Tunick has visited South Israel to highlight the Dead Sea's plight. 10 years ago he photographed over 1000 nude models on floating on the water – the same location of which has become dry and scorched. Photography this page Ariel Schalit/AP.

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS

Building Back Better" has been a buzzword since 2019. Now we need to implement this to ensure a just transition and sustainable economic growth for the years to come –

Simone Borg Ambassador for Climate Change

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS “Real success can only come if there is a change in our societies and in our economics and in our politics.” Sir David Attenborough

ir David Attenborough is the world's most-loved naturalist, who has been broadcasting nature-related documentaries for over 60 years, including Blue Planet and Planet Earth. He is known for his love of the natural world and - ever increasingly - for speaking out about climate change which threatens it. He recently joined the UK Prime Minister at the UN Security Council telling its 15 members that while it is too late to avoid climate change, “if we bring emissions down with sufficient vigour we may yet avoid the tipping points that will make runaway climate change unstoppable. In November this year, at COP26 in Glasgow, we may have our last opportunity to make the necessary step-change.” So what can The Dead Sea teach us? Quite simply, that by doing nothing we risk losing some of the things we love and enjoy most. In the words of Sir David Attenborough, "it's surely our responsibility to do everything within our power to create a planet that provides a home not just for us, but for all life on Earth." The Dead Sea has attracted visitors from around the Mediterranean Basin for thousands of years. Photography this page: Keith Chan.

ENVIRONMENT PROMOTION

EUROPEAN WEEK FOR WASTE REDUCTION 20-28 NOVEMBER 2021

Circular Economy and Circular Communities In a circular economy, waste is eliminated, resources are circulated, and nature is regenerated. This approach gives us the appropriate tools to fight climate change and biodiversity loss, to fight pollution, and to fight waste, whilst addressing social needs. A circular economy gives us the power to grow, to increase jobs while cutting greenhouse gas emissions, waste and pollution, explains the team at WasteServ.

ake a broken mobile screen. Would you rather dispose of your mobile and go buy a new one or would you repair it instead? What you may not know is that, by extending the life of a smartphone by one year, a person would be saving two million tonnes in emissions. It is these conscious decisions that will help us move away from the linear economy model of ‘take – make – dispose’. This is the ambition behind the European Week for Waste Reduction (EWWR), the biggest gathering of awareness-raising actions about waste prevention in Europe. Schools, public bodies, companies, NGOs and others were all invited to take part, spread the word and reduce waste. During a single week in November, the EWWR promotes and implements actions about sustainable resources whilst always keeping in mind that the preparation and aftermath should not generate more waste. The EWWR Steering Committee together with all entities, work tirelessly all year round to encourage a wide range of audiences to get involved. WasteServ is a coordinator and contributor for EWWR in Malta and Gozo. The theme this year is “Circular Communities”

ENVIRONMENT PROMOTION

Above: This year's theme behind the European Week for Waste Reduction is “Circular Communities”, which aims to bring forth different members of the public, across Europe, uniting them by a common goal - that of promoting and raising awareness about better waste management. Left: WasteServ has embarked upon a new project which involves the opening of four Reuse Centres at the Civic Amenity Sites in Luqa, Ħal Far, Mrieħel and Tal-Kus in Gozo to be opened by next year. The objective behind these centres is to offer used and ‘pre-loved’ items that still hold value and most importantly can be re-used, instead of thrown away. Items on sale will include toys, ceramics, books, furniture and much more. Bottom: The ECOHIVE Academy facade, at the Visitor’s Centre in Marsascala. At the ECOHIVE children can learn about waste management and circular economy in a fun and engaging way.

procedures at the workplace, the collection of used toys to be given out as presents, as well as initiatives related to marine life and the conservation of water. All of these activities and initiatives have one common goal – that of reducing waste. The initiatives will later be judged and winners will be awarded during the Malta Waste Reduction Awards.

which aims to bring forth different members of the public, across Europe, uniting them by a common goal – that of promoting and raising awareness about better waste management. 41 initiatives will be happening around the Maltese Islands from 20 to 28 November 2021. These include clean-ups, online campaigns, upcycling projects, educational presentations, introducing waste separation

asteServ has been going through a very exciting period of growth and the results are already showing. Indeed, this year has been a record-breaking turning point in terms of the highest number of recyclables – that of cardboard and paper, metal, glass and plastic – ever processed. Another unprecedented project that WasteServ has embarked upon involves the opening of four Reuse Centres at the Civic Amenity Sites in Luqa, Ħal Far, Mrieħel and Tal-Kus in Gozo to be opened by next year.

The objective behind these centres is to offer used and ‘pre-loved’ items that still hold value and most importantly can be re-used, instead of thrown away. Items on sale will include toys, ceramics, books, furniture and much more. All this is part of a transition that as a country we are going through. The age of producing, consuming, and wasting without limit is becoming unacceptable as we look at a future built around a circular economy, where we all are taught to reduce, reuse and recycle materials as much as possible. For more information visit WasteServ on www.wsm.com.mt, facebook.com/WasteServ, instagram.com/wasteserv

ENVIRONMENT PROMOTION MALTA’S MARINE ENVIRONMENT

Whales, dolphins and plastic don’t mix The latest studies commissioned by the Environment and Resources Authority (ERA), stemming from the Marine Strategy Framework Directive (MSFD), shed light on the rich whale and dolphin populations living in Maltese waters. In short, the results were outstanding bar a few cross-boundary/international issues. Several cetaceans (whales and dolphin species) have been confirmed in Maltese waters and we can safely say they live happily under the waves around our islands, writes the ERA team.

ENVIRONMENT PROMOTION

owever, we know that some issues do affect our marine environment as well as our whales, dolphins as well as other animals and plants living in our seas. Indeed, together we can address one of the biggest threats to marine life – plastics!

Many are still unaware that the little plastic (and often unpractical) fork used to eat their takeaway will never vanish – it will breakdown into smaller and smaller pieces until it will eventually make it’s way into our own foodchain. Worse still – ingested plastic by marine species will lead to a painful death for the animal in question to no fault of its own. Whales, dolphins, turtles, fish, birds and other marine animals and plants all fall victims to our selfish behaviours – which are often due to our lack of awareness. Unfortunately the situation cannot be reversed, however small actions taken on a daily basis can change this tragic situation!

hat can we do to reduce marine waste? The number 1 principle is simple and needs to be: If you can’t reuse it – refuse it! AVOID SINGLE USE PLASTICS! Try using alternatives to single use plastics such as reusable cutlery or cups – take your tableware from home with you whenever possible.

Above: The common bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus). Photograph © KAI Marine Services. Far left: Tail of a sperm whale. Photograph © KAI Marine Services. Left: Distribution of cetaceans. This map highlights 1 or more cetacean sightings around the Maltese Islands.

DISPOSE OF YOUR LITTER APPROPRIATELY! Use designated areas and bins for your waste. Sorting it will help in further reducing our impact. BE RESPONSIBLE OF YOUR OWN TRASH! Carry a garbage bag with you and make sure you clean up behind you when you are “out in the wild” or on the beach.

USE REUSABLE BAGS FOR YOUR SHOPPING! Take your reusable bag with you for your shopping. Avoid using plastic bags as these are usually single use. CHOOSE PRODUCTS WITH LESS PACKAGING! Packaged items are necessarily the best products! Make a conscious choice to go for products with the least packaging and lowest carbon footprint. CIGARETTE BUTTS ARE PLASTIC TOO! Dispose of your cigarette butt in designated bins – thrown irresponsibly, they will make their way to the sea.

Top: Loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta) gliding through the water. Above: A discarded plastic plate – this photograph taken off the west coast of Malta. Even though this may have been discarded properly, many discarded plastic items end up blowing into the sea. The best solution is to re-use items – if you're going for a picnic or BBQ at the beach take plates and cutlery from home. It might take a bit more work a nd planning – but would you want your discarded plastic getting into your own food chain? Photograph OCEANA/Carlos Minguell © Life BaĦAR for N2K. Below: A discarded floating box used as a fishing beacon (no identification), this photograph taken off the coast of Gozo. Photograph OCEANA/Carlos Minguell © Life BaĦAR for N2K.

Remember, we are talking about our own foodchain! It is everyone’s responsibility to be part of the solution. Let’s work together to keep litter out of our seas. If you can’t reuse it – refuse it! For further information: era.org.mt

PROMOTION THE CONFERENCE ON THE FUTURE OF EUROPE

The Future is in Your Hands Have your say in building a more resilient Europe and be part of the Conference on the Future of Europe. With a dedicated digital platform where citizens can formulate recommendations to discuss with the Conference Plenary, you can make your voice heard. This is an opportunity to find and discuss ideas people are sharing across Europe. Photography EP/Kenton Thatcher © European Union 2021.

he Conference on the Future of Europe is a unique and timely opportunity for European citizens to debate on Europe’s challenges and priorities. No matter where you are from or what you do, this is the place to think about what future you want for the European Union. The European Parliament, the Council and the European Commission have committed to listen to Europeans and to follow up, within their sphere of competences, on the recommendations made. By spring 2022, the Conference is expected to reach conclusions and provide guidance on the future of Europe. Through a multilingual digital platform (www.futureu.europa.eu) you can easily be involved together with other Europeans in this Europewide initiative by sharing your thoughts on the changes you would like to see in the European Union in a range of topics. The platform is the hub of the Conference on the Future of Europe and gives you an opportunity to speak up, to say what kind of Europe you want to live in, to help shape our future. The first step to making your voice heard is registering on the Conference on the Future of Europe platform. Once you log in, it’s time to join the discussion. You can see what others are saying, take part in events and follow the progress and the outcome of the Conference. There are a whole list of topics including: climate change and environment; health; a stronger economy, social justice and jobs; EU in the world; values and rights, rule of law, security; digital transformation; European democracy; migration; education, culture, youth and sport. And if your idea doesn’t fit any of these topics you can still make it heard in a dedicated section for other ideas. For further information and assistance contact Servizzi Ewropej f ’Malta (SEM) on info.sem@gov.mt or phone 2200 3300.

AUCTION

Botticelli’s Man of Sorrows

nd here we have it, one of Sandro Botticelli’s greatest masterpieces, The Man of Sorrows, a stunningly modern and human portrayal of the resurrected Christ. This is one of a handful of the Renaissance master’s works remaining in private hands, and will star in Sotheby’s annual Masters Week sales series in New York in January 2022. It will be offered with an estimate in excess of $40 million. Executed in the late 15th/early 16th century, The Man of Sorrows, is a masterful late-period work by the artist, when Boticelli was greatly influenced by the fanatical Dominican friar Girolamo Savonarola - one of the greatest villains in the history of art for his destruction of secular art and culture - and adopted a syle characterised by Christian symbolism and visionary spirituality. During the final decade of his life, Botticelli’s output was

markedly different from his earlier career, which is often characterised as the epitome of Renaissance ideals of humanism and beauty. In parallel, the 1490s were a turbulent time - the Medici (a leading patron) had been expelled from Florence and Italy’s peace was disrupted by invasion and plagues. The Man of Sorrows symbolizes Christ’s suffering and death with an astounding degree of humanity that is the hallmark of Botticelli’s portraiture. The painting showcases Christ’s divinity with a stunning psychological depth. The subject spotlights Botticelli’s intense spirituality at the time, which greatly influenced his later period work and life. Works by Botticelli - from any period - remain exceedingly rare at auction. His late works, in particular, seldom appear on the market, with only three other works from this period (post 1492) known to be in private hands. Photography Courtesy Sotheby’s.

AUCTION

THE WORLD’S FIRST POSTAGE STAMP

THE FIRST PENNY BLACK This December Sotheby’s is set to offer the very first postage stamp - one of the most significant inventions in human history, the precursor of mass and global communication. Photography courtesy Sotheby’s.

ating to 1840, this small Penny Black to be sold by Sotheby's in London on December 7th 2021, with an estimate of £4 - 6 million is a pristine impression, unused, and from plate 1a (the very first printed sheet) and lettered A-I. The stamp has been authenticated by The Royal Philatelic Society and The British Philatelic Association “This is the stamp that started the postage system as we know it", says Henry House, Head of Sotheby’s Treasures Sale. "This stamp was a game-changer, allowing people to communicate from all levels of society and business to flourish.” Before 1840 it was the recipient who paid the cost of postage but, in a complete reversal of thinking, a competition was held to determine the best method to provide proof that the sender had paid. The eventual front runners were the Mulready and the Penny Black. Designed to be complementary, the public infinitely preferred the Penny Black. The design of the Penny Black is simple: a small and now iconic portrait of the young Queen Victoria’s head in profile with the words Postage One Penny and a pair of check letters on handmade watermarked paper with gum on the back. The idea of an adhesive postage label was revolutionary at the time. The first Penny Black is attached to 'The Wallace Document'. Dated April 10th 1840 it is named after Robert Wallace, an MP who successfully led a commission for postal reform. It is considered the most important piece of philatelic history in the world and comes from a personal scrapalbum. 'The Wallace Document' includes the Penny Black and a proof of the ‘Mulready Stationery’ that had been commissioned by the government as an alternative means to prepay postage. These pre-stamped envelopes and covers were originally conceived as the best and primary way for the public to prepay postage. At the time, the Penny Black was

seen as simply a means of paying excess postage on the Mulready envelopes and wrappers. However the Penny Black prevailed and was a runaway success.

rior to the establishment of the mails in the UK, the only systems for delivering letters resided with messengers in the employ of either the King, the Church, or the Universities. The first Master of the Posts was created by Henry VIII around 1512, responsible for overseeing the King’s messengers and the transportation of all official mail in and out of the country. Although it was expressly forbidden, these messengers began to carry private letters and, by the end of the century, the growing merchant class had created their own private services. To counter this Queen Elizabeth I proclaimed all mail had to pass through official channels - in essence this meant that all letters could be opened and read. In 1635 the first internal service was set up by Charles I to deliver mail between the major cities of England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland. Later named the General Post Office by Oliver Cromwell in 1657, the government still retained the right to open any letters in defence of “plots against the government.” During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries the mail was carried by relay up and down the country by teams of carriers on foot and horse from one point, or post, to another. At first, letters were only transported between post offices. Upon arrival they were collected and paid for by the recipient, the cost depending on the Treasury who regulated the postage rates and changed them regularly. Until the dawn of the Victorian era the General Post Office would remain a staid yet profitable bastion of the Treasury and was such a good source of revenue that whenever the government needed money, the public was made to pay through higher postage rates.

MELITA Silver Bullion The Central Bank of Malta, in collaboration with Lombard Bank Malta p.l.c., is issuing Malta’s first silver bullion coin. The obverse of the coin portrays “Melita” inspired by the 1922 postage stamp by Edward Caruana Dingli, while the reverse depicts the coat of arms of the Republic of Malta. The coin has been struck by PAMP mint of Switzerland, in 999.0 Fine Silver, being the purest silver possible. It weighs 10 ounces (311.03g) and bears a legal tender value of €10. The issue limit is set at 500. Technical Details Weight

Alloy

Diameter

Quality

Face Value

Thickness

Year of Issue

10oz (311.03g)

999.0 Fine Silver

79.5mm

€10

6mm

2021

Actual Size

Enquiries: e-mail info@maltacoins.com or Telephone: 25581163.