Kayaking
OLD
Rainy day yakking BRISBANE
Troy Brown
We’ve all had days when getting our kayak on the water isn’t possible, regardless of how much we desire it. It may be the wind, rain, broken gear, work or family commitments and a multitude of other disasters. Whatever the reason, these absences from the water can become prolonged, which for a keen kayaker is its own form of water torture. How do we overcome these inevitable separations from our kayak? It’s time to get busy!
‘forget’ they require maintenance becomes a touch overwhelming. I typically only address this maintenance once the box starts to overflow onto the shelf. Repairing regularly makes this task less daunting, rather than the monumental job I normally encounter. To make the repair process simpler, I always have a stockpile of common split rings, hooks and other hardware. To avoid discovery of a pile of rusted misery, I also rinse lures in freshwater and hang them to dry, prior to placing them in the repair pile. Adding rust repair to the job is something you should avoid at all costs,
The author’s PLB is showing signs of many weekends on the water. Its battery is well within the expiry date and it tests fine, so it can stay a little longer. If your commitments allow and you really need that kayak fishing buzz, the best medicine is preparing for your next journey. I’m not talking about simply throwing a couple of rods and tackle trays into a corner, as the best means of overcoming the yakking blues is a full assault on those often forgotten maintenance jobs. The following suggestions won’t just reduce your boredom, they’ll also make upcoming trips more productive, enjoyable and cost effective. TACKLE YOUR FISHING GEAR FIRST If you’re like me, there’s a good chance you may have some tackle lurking in a dark corner, waiting for some new hooks, rust removal or a simple clean. I have a container specifically marked for lure repairs, so after each trip I toss any damaged lures into the container, with the knowledge that I’ll one day return to effect repairs. My tendency to throw tackle into the box and continually 46
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as I discovered recently. Rusted parts are usually best replaced, but you can save many items with some rust killer and then a quality lubricant. Rusted hooks and split rings should never be saved, as they’ll inevitably fail at the moment you hook that ‘fish of a lifetime’. STAY SAFE Once your tackle repair is complete, it’s time to move onto a boring, but incredibly important maintenance item. Safety gear is generally overlooked, so you should have a regular schedule to check the items, which may save your life, or that of a fellow kayaker. Some tasks are recommended to be completed by the manufacturer, although many can be performed easily at home. If you own an EPIRB or PLB, check the condition of the beacon, plus battery replacement or unit expiry dates. Those test switches are fitted for a reason, so make sure a quick test is part of your regular routine. Check
the general condition of the beacon to ensure there’s no obvious damage, then replace any items that are broken or out of date. We never want to use our emergency gear, but regularly ensuring they’re in operational condition is common sense. My PLB is looking a little daggy, but it’s in good operational condition and well within the battery lifespan, so I can overlook its declining looks. Luckily, my wife does the same with me! Many kayakers don’t wear a PFD, either for comfort reasons, or simply because they’re confident of being able to “self rescue”. The fact remains, a PFD is there to save you, when you cannot save yourself. If you’re injured, separated from your kayak and unable to reach land, that ‘uncomfortable’ or ‘uncool’ floatation device may be your only lifeline. If you do wear a PFD, it’s recommended by many manufacturers that you return your vest at least annually for servicing, especially if it is an inflationtype jacket. If you don’t wish to do that, servicing these devices is relatively simple, with most brands offering a well-defined procedure for annual servicing. As a minimum, check the jacket and webbing for any rips, brittleness, mould or loose stitching. If your vest inflates, check the firing mechanism, weigh the cylinder to ensure there’s been no gas loss, or replace components if they’re outside the recommended expiry date. Manually inflate the vest, then leave it to sit for 24 hours and ensure the vest retains air. I’m always surprised that some will spend a fortune on their fishing gear, but won’t invest
PFDs are vitally important in the event of an accident or health issue. Check general condition, webbing, floatation material and firing mechanisms (on self-inflating models). a small amount to protect their life on the water. TAKE CHARGE OF MARINE ELECTRONICS Quality sounders can be expensive tools, but they’re also extremely effective when used on a kayak. The downside is our close proximity to the water, which places our gear closer to the potential effects of salt damage. Most models are made for saltwater use, plus are waterproof, but connectors are a constant cause of failure. To avoid costly repairs or replacement, ensure o-rings on connectors are in good condition, regularly check for corrosion and apply dielectric grease, if a little extra protection is necessary. If you find corrosion on connectors, deal with it immediately, as this can spread to the pins on your sounder if left connected for long periods. Avoid using petroleum-based lubricants, as these can cause o-rings and some plastics to deteriorate. Lanolin-based sprays are typically safe, but always
check before application. Over-use of dielectric grease can also cause issues, even though it’s both a protectant and lubricant, as it can stop release of air around a connector and make insertion nearly impossible. Frayed or distorted o-rings can do the same thing, causing the connectors to
or while opening hatches in the rain, so it makes sense to secure connectors above any potential water ingress. Pay close attention to the casing of any lithium batteries, as water and lithium are a dangerous mix. WHAT THE HULL SHOULD I DO NEXT? It seems obvious, but
This old rod has a crumbling cork grip. This DIY repair with some flexible filler and sealant will keep it usable, until I can get it to a rod repairer.
Don’t let your tackle cleaning tray get to this point! This photo is only a fraction of the lures that needed attention.
continually dislodge. Don’t use conductive greases (such as carbon grease), as these can cause a short and destroy your unit. Non-conductive products don’t stop connectors from working, as correctly designed plugs are a firm physical fit and always get enough physical contact. After you’re done with your sounder, check all in-hull cable connections, as well as the battery. Ensure all below-deck connections are watertight, rust-free and secured as high as possible inside the hull. Regardless of how water-tight your kayak may be, some water will always enter during cleaning,
checking the hull of your kayak should be another regular maintenance item. Look for any cracks, especially around scuppers, seat supports and any other stress points. If you have floatation or support materials in the hull, ensure they’re positioned correctly and in good condition. If you have a cheaper kayak without any integral floatation material, adding some foam blocks (or even pool noodles) may be enough to stop you from sinking in an emergency. Scratches are an unavoidable addition if you actually use your kayak, but
