Wedding special

WEDDING LIFE THE QUALITY WEDDING GUIDE • FEBRUARY 2014

White Hot Weddings

HEADMASTERS VERSION: FISH MEDIA TRIM: W 210MM × H 280MM BLEED: W 216MM × H 286MM TYPE: W 185MM × H 255MM

Your Perfect Wedding Dress The Happiest Day of your Life Your Wedding Planner

LOCAL WEDDING SPECIALISTS Eastwell Manor Ashford 01233 213000

Annabels Chislehurst 07714 189 674

Ifloatspa Petts Wood 01689 637142

Bea Das Sevenoaks 01732 740959

Leia Bluewater 01322 313887

Bio Sculpture 0845 331 2347

My Events Sidcup 0208 304 3828

Blackburn Bridal Blackheath 0208 318 2333

Roakes Westerham 01959 565659

Bromley Register Office Bromley 0208 313 4666

Rowhill Grange Wilmington 01322 615136

Cakebox Gravesend 01474 353101

Victoria Allinson Limpsfield 01883 722663

Dominic Walmsley Sevenoaks 01732 779 555

Victoria’s Bridal Boutique 01689 637007

THE PAVILIONS, EAST ROAD WIMBLEDON, LONDON SW19 1UW Tel: 020 8254 3434

Adam Swaine Photography 07798 526569.

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Your

Ultimate Wedding Planner BY SARAH O’MEARA

I

n our day-dreams, the romantic proposal of marriage is effortlessly followed by a Cinderella-style wedding day, and the planning process is carefully edited out.

As lovely as these fantasies are, they’re hardly a blueprint for organising the big day.

Whether you’re planning a modest yet elegant affair or a week’s worth of wild hedonism, every dream wedding needs a strong plan to transform it from an idea into reality.

Don’t panic, just make sure you’re asking the right questions at the right time, says wedding planner and author of Wedding Bible Sarah Haywood.

There’s no point in worrying about the details of the day until you’ve made five key decisions.

Your big five are... how, where, when, who and budget.

Do you want a religious or civil ceremony, in which geographic location, at what time of year, who will you invite and how much can you spend?

People rush out and buy magazines and make decisions about having peonies before they know what month the ceremony’s going to be in. You wouldn’t think about furnishing

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your home, until you’d found the house, would you!

“The Big Five, as I call them in my book, are your road map and until they’ve been agreed upon you can’t get down to the details.”

Follow Haywood’s tips to make sure your wedding day is a success... tWelve to nine months to Go

Having enjoyed the luxury of travelling to venues, perhaps trying on a few gowns and looking at pretty pictures in magazines, now’s the time to firm up those plans.

Imagine that this phase is called ‘Ideas and Decisions’ and that now you’ve got a sense of the key elements which will define the look and style of day, it’s important to hire suppliers who can make sure those are all in place. ✱ Set the date, book the ceremony and venue(s) ✱ Book key suppliers (catering, florist, photography, transport, stationer) ✱ Compile guest list ✱ Book entertainment (band, DJ etc.) ✱ Reserve suits, purchase bridesmaids’ outfits and select wedding gown ✱ Send out ‘Save the Date’ cards/email

nine to three months

don’t forGet:

Having sketched the outline of your wedding and hired the key players, it’s now the fun part - filling in the details of the day and designing your perfect wedding!

Think about what it’s going to look like - and if you’re not sure, get help. It’s important for all the elements to be coordinated otherwise you’ll end up with something random, like a cake that doesn’t work with the venue.

You need a design overview.

✱ Confirm menu ✱ Mail invitations 12 to 8

don’t forGet: ✱ Menu tasting ✱ Choose cake, flowers,

readings and music ✱ Purchase wedding ring(s) ✱ Register for gift list ✱ Choose stationer and agree invitations ✱ Book honeymoon three to one months to Go

At this point, you’ll hopefully be tying everything together, confirming all your plans and adding those final details.

For those who feel that there’s simply too much left to do, or are worried about being stressed on the day, you might consider bringing someone in to bring it all together.

weeks before wedding ✱ Confirm order of service with officiant ✱ One month to go, chase outstanding RSVPs ten days Before the WeddinG

A key point to remember is that if everyone involved has the same expectations of the day, then the day should run smoothly.

If you’ve talked through the Big Five at the beginning, then any last minute controversies should be avoided.

Listen to suggestions from friends and family throughout the process. Some people just want to be heard and by hearing them out, you know they’ll be supportive on the day - even if you’ve ignored what they said! don’t forGet: ✱ Confirm final guest numbers with venue and caterer ✱ Collect Orders of Service, menu and place cards if necessary ✱ Prepare ‘Wedding Day Schedule’ and distribute as required ✱ Confirm shot list with photographer

© Camilla Harney

FEBRUARY 2014 47

AWARD WINNERS BLACKBURN BRIDAL COUTURE were winners of this year’s Best Independent Bridal retailer award at the ‘You and Your Wedding’s ‘ magazine awards ceremony in London January 2014.

Russell Blackburn the boutique’s Director said “We are delighted and very proud to have won this prestigious award because it is based on customer service and overall look and design of the store” Blackburn Bridal is situated in the heart of Blackheath village. To arrange an appointment to view the Bridal Collection call 0208 297 1188. www.blackburnbridal.co.uk There is also a stunning collection of Mother of the Bride outfits in their Occasion Wear Studio. To arrange an appointment call 0208 318 2333. www.blackburnoccasionwear.co.uk

www.blackburnbridal.co.uk 0208 297 1188 or email info@blackburnbridal.co.uk 48 MONTH 20132014 FEBRUARY

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W E D D I N G S P E C I A L with natural character, modern finishes and it’s very own award-winning Utopia Spa.

WHAT MAKES THE HOTEL UNIQUE? The immaculate grounds and delectable views add to the unique qualities of this stunning property. The hotel has 38 impressive bedrooms, a newly refurbished lounge bar as well as a collection of intimate lounges and a private function suite that sits separately from the hotel. The spa is one of the hotel’s most notable features and with awards such as Best Hotel Spa of the Year and the World’s Top 50 Spas it is unsurprising that Rowhill Grange is one of Kent’s most sought after venues.

WHAT MAKES ROWHILL GRANGE A SPECIAL WEDDING VENUE? Brides and grooms have a wealth of options for their special day. You can exchange vows in the stunning outdoor gazebo, enjoy the magic of a picture perfect backdrop and be king and queen of your very own Clockhouse Suite. The suite can cater for up to 150 guests and has its own courtyard, entrance and bar.

Just Say the Words.....

I DO

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DOES THE HOTEL PROVIDE WEDDING FAIRS AND SHOW ROUNDS? Throughout the year Rowhill Grange organises both wedding fairs and open evenings attended by handpicked wedding suppliers; visit www.rowhillgrange.co.uk for the latest dates. If you would prefer a personal show round, you can book your private appointment by contacting the team on 01322 612778 or email sales@rowhillgrange.com.

et at the end of a sweeping driveway, Rowhill Grange Hotel is one of Kent’s finest countryside retreats and a magical venue for your big day.

ROWHILL GRANGE AT A GLANCE Built in 1868, Rowhill Grange was once a Victorian summer house. Today the hotel is a stunning AA 4 Star Hotel brimming

Rowhill Grange Hotel and Utopia Spa Wilmington, Kent, DA2 7QH 01322 615136 ROWHILLGRANGE.CO.UK

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Victoria’s Bridal Boutique

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very girl dreams of the perfect wedding day and with the perfect day comes the perfect dress and that’s where Victoria’s Bridal Boutique steps in…

With over 12 year’s experience in the Bridal industry, Victoria has a great knowledge of design and style and is committed to giving each bride a very personal and individual experience when searching for their ideal dress.

Victoria’s Bridal Boutique holds a number of stunning collections from designers including, Stella York, Maggie Sottero and Lillian West, along with a vast selection of beautiful gowns

to choose from, the boutique also offers a made to measure service to ensure the perfect fit.

Victoria believes attention to detail is key and she strives to give each bride an extremely special overall experience when visiting the store.

Once you have found your dress for the big day, Victoria’s Bridal Boutique will also help you with all your accessory needs, from head dresses and veils to shoes and lingerie, the boutique has a range of decadent accessories to enhance your wedding day look.

“Thanks to our years of experience and close customer contact, we at Victoria’s Bridal Boutique know what you want, make time for you and have made it our goal to fulfill all our customers’ dreams. Nothing is impossible and we will go the extra mile to make the experience of choosing your bridal gown as close to perfect as we can.”

Tel: 01689 637 077 www.victoriasbridalboutique.co.uk

Victoria’s Bridal Boutique

t: 01689 637007

e: info@victoriasbridalboutique.co.uk

Catering for all your bridal needs Bridal gowns by Maggie Sottero, Lillian West, Stella York and Lilly

Free Accessory

Victoria’s Bridal Boutique would like to offer readers an introductory offer of a free accessory up to the value of £80.00 with a bridal gown purchase - on production of this voucher

Bridesmaids by Sorella Vita and VBB Opening Hours: Tueday to Saturday 10am to 5pm Out of hours appointments available, just give us a call

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STUNNING

White Hot Numbers

BY LISA HAYNES

YOU MIGHT ASSOCIATE FALLING IN LOVE AND FINDING ‘THE ONE’ WITH YOUR HUSBAND-TO-BE, BUT THE VERY SAME PRINCIPLES APPLY TO YOUR WEDDING DRESS.

J

ust as you need to kiss a few frogs in the dating world, the search for your dream frock can be a real journey.

You’re looking for the right shape, the right shade and exactly the right amount of sparkles, feathers or flounce.

If in doubt, turn to the catwalks for inspiration. Bridal designers are seasons ahead of the aisle game so you can tap into the fashion mood for your upcoming nuptials.

Check out the trends and find a wedding ensemble you’ll be smitten with. Fabrics to fall for Satin, silk, tulle, taffeta - the bridal options are endless but one fabric is sending everyone wild. “For this season, it’s lace, lace and more lace,” explains Susi Rogol, editor of trade magazine Bridal Buyer.

Not only as full-on gowns, but as accents too. “Lace is being used in little sculpted shrugs to give a hint of cover-up through to strapless gowns and as detachable straps to complete top layers,” says Rogol.

Meanwhile edgier brides are loving laser-cut fabrics to create surface texture and 3D effects, also achieved with swirls of ribbons or fabric forming an entire skirt of flowers or petals.

BRIDING YOUR TIME If you’re looking ahead to a wedding next year, look back in time for inspiration. 2013 will be a vintage year, according to Rogol. “Vintage is the direction that every influential designer is taking, harking back to the Thirties and Fifties in particular.

“So, slinky body-clinging dresses in slippery satins with clever fabric manipulation to form shape and accentuate curve on one hand, boat necklines and ballerina lengths on the other.”

Think Audrey Hepburn for inspiration, with Fifties hallmark details like nipped-in waists, bell skirts and crisp silhouettes.

SWEET ON SILHOUTTE Use your body as a guide to choosing a shape that will flatter as you saunter down the aisle. There are two major silhouettes this season: curve-enhancing fishtails or retro ballgown styles.

Samantha Neville, founder of Mamfii Bridal, says: “Fishtail shapes accentuate the classic hourglass figure and look fabulous in full lace, or very simply made in the finest silk duchess where the beauty of the gown is all in the fabric and cut.

“Ballgowns are cut with a slightly lower waist, ensuring a flatteringfit for all figures. Damask fabrics are making a comeback in classicshapes and are a beautiful choice for the fashion-forward bride, as are softer fabrics such as tulle and chiffon but cut into a fuller shape.”

HEART THE HIGH STREET For brides who are short on time or cash flow, buying off-the-peg is the obvious option and, thankfully, the trusty high street is going from strength to strength.

“It’s obviously a completely different experience to buy your wedding gown from the high street to experiencing the service of a boutique,” Neville warns.

“But stores such as Coast and Monsoon have some lovely styles that are both stylish and cost-effective.”

Increasingly, big bridal manufacturers are also introducing diffusion lines at accessible prices so brides can still get a killer cut andperfect fit, all within budget.

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Fabulous Lingerie and Swimwear at

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f you’ve not already paid a visit to Leia Lingerie, you’re missing out! The store in Bluewater (located on the 1st floor between John Lewis and House Of Fraser), is fast becoming the ‘go-to’ boutique for the women of Kent… and beyond! Specialising in lingerie collections for every occasion, from cup sizes A-K there really is something for everyone. Whether that be bridal lingerie or something more seductive, shapewear, perfectly fitting Swimwear or even a new sports bra!

Store Manager Leigh is keen to promote the importance of the correct fit. She tells us, ‘So many women come to us wearing completely the wrong size…without even realising it! We also offer help and advice for those picking out gifts for special occasions, which is really helpful for partners.’

ifloat spa Floatation, Holistics and Nail Spa

If you crave pampering in surroundings, iFloat Spa is your Place. Located in Petts Wood (Kent), we are the first Floatation, Holistics & Beauty Spa in Southeast London.

Here you can easily stay a day, experiencing the world´s most relaxing therapy - Floatation - or having one of the massages or relaxing treatments that we have to offer on our extensive menu.

Bookings is advisable but not always necessary.

Details of our Menu, Price list and Opening times are on our website.

Single Float 60min £39 Manicure £17 Shellac Manicure £23 Pedicure £23 Facials from £35 Body Treatments from £40 Back & Shoulder Relax £35 Swedish Massage 60min £50 Deep Tissue Massage 50min £60 Hot Stone Massage 60min £60 Tui-Na Massage 60min £60 Refexology 60min £50 Woman Spa Rituals £95 Man Must Package £125 Himalayan Energie Package £125 Pre-Holiday & Bridal Packages available from £105

59 Queensway, Petts Wood, BR5 1EB TEL: 01689 637 142 www.ifloatspa.co.uk

Get £5 Off

When You Spend More Than £40

Get £10 Off

When You Spend More Than £70 (1. Not Redeemable for cash. 2. Selling Terms & Conditions Apply) FEBRUARY 2014 53

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Sweet Carts Come to Chislehurst!

Sugar ‘n’ Spice and all Things Nice

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Sweet Sundae

atisfy your guests’ sweet tooth with a scrumptious sweet cart filled with a delicious range of traditional confectionary provided by Sweet Sundae.

Tantalise your taste buds with your very own selection of sweets, pick all of your old favourites or choose a theme and the Sweet Sundae team will put your personalised sweet cart together for your big day!

Prices start from £275.00 and this includes cart hire, your selection of confectionary, display sweet jars, scoops and candy bags. Sweet Sundae also offers free delivery and collection with the M25.

Stuck for Imaginative and affordable ideas for your wedding favours? Sweet Sundae has an array of creative confectionary themed favours available, or opt for a delicious and eye catching alternative to floral centrepieces with the latest trend- Sweet Trees! Sweet Sundae offers a number of sugary trees that not only look good but taste great too!

Don’t forget, Sweet Sundae also host’s children’s birthday parties and can provide personalised party bags for your special occasion!

Enquire in store for Sweet Tree and wedding favour price packages.

Sweet Sundae, 13 High Street, Chislehurst, BR7 5AB https://www.facebook.com/sweetsundaechislehurst

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Dominic Walmsley Jewellery

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ffering a highly bespoke service, Dominic Walmsley appreciates the importance and meaning of every piece of jewellery he creates. He particularly enjoys the process of working together with his clients to design and make unique pieces that meet their individual tastes and requirements.

Here we have a selection of stunning rings he has created to symbolise the devotion and lasting affection with which they were given.

Old to New Old and dated jewellery totally transformed into stunning new pieces that can be worn and treasured.

Appointments with Dominic can be made in his Riverhead shop or London studio to discuss your ideas and see some more examples of his beautiful work.

Please call to arrange an appointment.

3 The Square  Riverhead 01732 779 555

www.dominicwalmsley.com

Made in London

www.dominicwalmsley.com 01732 779 555 Info@dominicwalmsley.com 3 The Square, Riverhead, Sevenoaks, Kent TN13 2AA

♦ IN STORE ♦ ♦ BY PHONE ♦ ♦ ONLINE ♦

✦ Eggless Fresh Cream Cakes for all occasions, birthdays, weddings, anniversaries etc. ✦ Personalised Cakes While you Wait ✦ Cakes ordered and ready SAME DAY. Over 1500 designs in store. Bespoke Cakes available on request. ✦ We can design cakes for corporate Christmas Parties and more

QUOTE RE010 WHEN ORDERING TO CLAIM A 10% DISCOUNT 158 Milton Road, Gravesend, Kent DA12 2RG

01474 353101

Opening Hours: Mon – Sat: 11am-7pm Sunday: 12am-4pm 56 FEBRUARY 2014

eggfreecake.co.uk

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Bio Sculpture Gel The original everlasting manicure Nothing Less than Perfection for your Big Day

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io Sculpture Gel is the original, everlasting manicure.

Perfect for brides, Bio Sculpture Gel provides a glossy colour finish that won’t smudge or chip and will look stunning on the big day and throughout the honeymoon.

Bio Sculpture Gel is a flexible and durable nail coating that is cured under a UV light. The treatment provides a professional and glossy colour finish that nurtures and protects your natural nails. Your nails are instantly dry to touch and they won’t smudge or chip for up to three weeks on hands and six weeks on toes. Bio Sculpture Gel can also be used to build and shape your nails; they can be lengthened and re-shaped to have them looking their best for your wedding day.

Due to the durability of the gel, your nails can be ready days before the big day, meaning that you don’t need to leave anything to the last minute. The days leading up to your wedding will be filled with friends, family and excitement so make sure the last moments are as stress free as possible.

Whether you choose a French manicure, a soft neutral shade or something different altogether, there is a

colour to suit everyone.

The full collection includes over 150 colours, including a bridal selection, suitable for any bride from a classic bride, to a vintage bride or a glamorous bride. For brides who are looking to something to add even more sparkle to their day; crystals, glitter and studs can all be embedded into the gel and sealed for a smooth finish. For those who prefer a subtle style on their hands, add a little glitz to your toes for a hint of added glamour.

To find your nearest Bio Sculpture technician or salon visit www.biosculpture.co.uk or call 0845 331 2347

Beautiful Bridal Nails Collection 1 French White

68 Rose

67 Crème

2003 Nude

Bio Sculpture Gel is the latest must have nail care product.

Unlike varnish that chips and peels, this durable Gel is applied as an overlay onto natural nails by a qualified nail technician. The Gel is set under a UV Lamp giving it that strong, flexible, glossy finish which lasts for three weeks.

Easy removal without damage to nails. For your nearest salon or information on training courses for beginners and experienced nail technicians, call 0845 331 2347. www.biosculpture.co.uk

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Gorgeous Bridal Boutique

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ictoria Allinson Couture is a gorgeous bridal boutique offering dresses by award winning British designers Alan Hannah, Naomi Neoh, Sabina Motasem and Lyn Ashworth as well as their own couture label. We are proud to fly the British flag with all our gowns being designed and made in the UK with love.

We are pleased to announce we are the new stockists for Sabina Motasem. Sabina is the UK’s best kept bridal secret in luxuriously understated and elegantly modern wedding dresses. The glamour and sophistication of old and new Hollywood shines through, inspired by a bygone age using the finest silks and a superior cut.

Our Victoria Allinson Couture label is very exciting as our gowns are made onsite at our Surrey boutique and are made using the finest silks and French laces. We offer the flexibiltiy to choose which skirt shape, neckline and bodice you desire and what mix of fabrics. With lavish accessories, veils, lace boleros and sashes, once the gown has been styled to suit you it means each bride will have a unique gown.

In the last year we have moved from Westerham to our stunning new Limpsfield, Surrey boutique.

Crisp white walls, sparkling chandeliers and lavish highlights

of gold whisk you into a wedding wonderland. It is a treasure trove of all things gorgeous, bridal and romantic.

Run by a mother and daughter team with a wealth of experience in the bridal industry, we believe that choosing your wedding dress should be one of life’s most magical experiences. Brides are welcomed into the boutique with open arms, your experience at Victoria Allinson is a little bit like going shopping with a really good friend – honest advice and expert knowledge.

To receive the best possible expertise and guidance, Victoria and Jayne operate an appointment system to guarantee you get the best customer service from the moment you arrive in store until you have left with your gown. Saturdays are always popular so we highly recommend booking in advance to not be disappointed. We are open Tuesday-Friday 10am - 4pm and Saturdays 10-5pm. We are closed on Sundays and Mondays. We are happy to offer late night appointments by request. For more information or to make an appointment please call 01883 722663, email info@victoriaallinson.co.uk

Accessories Evening Thursday 20th March 7-10pm RSVP Come and join us for an evening of champagne and fun. We have top makeup artist Jane Sinclair who has worked with many society brides giving a demonstration on perfect bridal makeup and Vardy from Grace Hair design in Westerham on hand to give advice on your hair. We will have our new ranges of headpieces, jewellery, sashes and veils for you to browse all at 10% off. Please call the boutique to RSVP on 01883 722663.

Accessories Party 20th March 7-10pm RSVP Hair and make up demos 10% off veils and headpieces

VICTORIA ALLINSON COUTURE * SABINA MOTASEM * NAOMI NEOH * LYN ASHWORTH * BESPOKE SHOES * VINTAGE HEADPIECES

Victoria Allinson Couture, Kiwi House, Limpsfield High Street, Surrey, RH8 0DR * 01883 722663 * victoriaallinsoncouture.co.uk

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Independent Party Planners

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ur heartland is event design and implementation; we are not caterers with bolt-on services or a marquee company claiming event organizing capabilities. We are independent party planners who recommend, source and manage the elements involved which allow us to choose and tailor what is right for the client.

It is our fundamental belief that the atmosphere is the core of a fabulous party and that all elements must complement one another perfectly. Our aim is to provide you with the peace of mind that enables you to relax and enjoy the party as much as your guests secure in the knowledge that through our meticulous attention to detail, creativity and passion, your party will be a roaring success.

You will not need to lift a finger, just turn up, welcome your guests and enjoy yourself at the best party in town. It’s your party, after all!

It would be our pleasure to work with you and deliver the celebration you and your guests will remember for a very long time. Get in touch for a noncommittal conversation about your party and we will discuss a realistic budget to create the party you desire.

We very much look forward to meeting you…

My Events

“Planning all your needs"

Now taking bookings and inquiries for the below services: ✮ ✮ ✮ ✮ ✮ ✮ ✮ ✮

Event and Party Management Party Catering Party Marquees Party Styling and Themes Party Entertainment Party Lighting Party Venues Party Hosting For further information please call 0208 308 9715 or

07967 188 504 or email

myevents@email.com

ADAM SWAINE PHOTOGRAPHY

Interiors Weddings Landscape

07798 526 569 www.adamswaine.co.uk

adamswaine@rocketmail.com FEBRUARY 2014 59

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KEEPING COMPANY WITH PANTANAL’S BIG CATS on a honeymoon with a difference A jaguar on the move along a riverbank

A family of capybara on the banks of the Three Brothers river, Porto Jofre

Giant otter eating fish in the Three Brothers river, Porto Jofre

A

s the pink dust clouds settle, a weathered cowboy and his herd of cattle come into view, the warm, apricot early evening sun casting them in a spotlight.

Like us, they’re travelling along the Transpantaneira, the single bumpy dirt track that cuts through the Brazilian Pantanal and the state of Mato Grosso. It’s taken me 35 hours to get here, but on horseback, venturing off track at times, they won’t reach the cattle market for another two days.

Wild, harsh and largely impenetrable, South America’s Pantanal is the world’s biggest swamp - stretching across Brazil, but spilling into Bolivia and Paraguay - and the continent’s richest source of wildlife.

It’s a far cry from the bright stadium lights of Rio and Brasilia, where football fans will be heading this summer.

But thanks to increased media interest, such as BBC Two’s recent documentary Wild Brazil, it’s steadily gaining worldwide exposure.

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Once used mainly by farmers and wealthy sports fishermen, who come to cast off in the area’s many waterways, the 145km Transpantaneira now attracts increasing tourist traffic, the majority searching for the Pantanal’s most awe-inspiring resident: the jaguar.

This is undoubtedly the best place to see these big cats in the wild, and hoping to spend some time in their company I’m heading to Porto Jofre, in the heart of the Pantanal and the very centre of South America.

As our journey takes us deeper into the thorny scrub, we pass a large water hole speckled with Jabiru storks touching down and taking off in quick succession.

Hundreds upon hundreds of gnarly-skinned caimans lie motionless in the shallow water, mouths open as if catching one of the many encircling flies. When the swamps dry out completely in September and October, they will remain submerged in the mud for three to four

months, only their beady eyes protruding from the ground.

A lack of water also drives jaguars to the riverbanks, giving wildlife enthusiasts the best opportunities for sightings during this dry season.

Sat on the banks of the Cuiaba river, at the end of the Transpantaneira, Porto Jofre is one of the best bases for jaguar tours. Accompanied by my guide Juan Silva da Cruz, one of the region’s most knowledgeable and passionate guides, I will spend the next few days exploring the river and its tributaries by boat, in search of wildlife.

that they’re bottom of the food chain and the preferred dinner option for most predators, it’s hardly surprising they look miserable.

The sour stench of fishy urine floats upstream, indicating an otter’s den is not far away. We smell, then hear them, their urgent bleating and squealing almost as stomach-churning as their perfume. It’s as if a thousand teenage girls have been granted an audience with Justin Bieber.

As babies scamper up the bank, adults duck and dive for fish, brutally ripping apart their catch.

We set off on our first outing at 5.30am, accompanied by a chattering soundtrack of birdsong. In the treetops, a golden howler monkey scowls at us, his 15-strong harem cowering in the background.

On the riverbank, a family of capybara, the world’s largest rodent, resemble grumpy old men, their expressions locked in a permanent frown. Given

Giant otter fishing in the Three Brothers river, Porto Jofre

d over a pond fille Dawn breaking il az Br fre pads, Porto Jo

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with Victoria lily

Above them, exposed tree roots hover in the air, about to plunge their bony hands into the water. It’s a sign of how much the water level has dropped in the past few months, improving our chances of seeing jaguar.

Sadly, luck is not on our side today, and we return home without seeing one of the big cats.

The journey back, though, is far from disappointing.

Silhouetted by the setting sun, parched trees appear charred by the burning red sky, as clouds coil like plumes of cigar smoke, twisting and curling upwards.

Nothing can detract from the beauty of this place.

Estimates suggest there are 7,000 jaguars in the Pantanal, Juan tells me, but he suspects there are many more, so our outlook for the days ahead looks positive.

The following morning we head to the Black Water Stream, just off the Three Brothers River. Slowing down the engine, we slowly scan the riverbanks, passing a dead caiman, belly up in the water, its carcass picked apart by vultures.

It’s at this point that I really appreciate having a local guide. Most tourists’ attempts at spotting are pitiful; directing someone to look at ‘that branch’ in dense forest, or ‘over there by that triangle’ isn’t particularly helpful.

“Are you referring to the isosceles or quadrilateral?” jokes one of our party sarcastically.

“Using local guides not only gives you the best chance to see jaguars,” says Juan, whose

key to wildlife rewards.

As midday approaches, the sun burns at an uncomfortable 34 degrees.

Wedged at a 45-degree angle, my knees start to cramp, while meaty black flies feast on my arms and legs.

Finally, the stocky, brash young male slowly saunters into the open, turning his muscular head in our direction and locking his gaze.

His power is quite humbling; his jaw so strong, it can crack a caiman’s skull.

“You can actually hear it crunch,” shudders Juan.

Slinking back into the bushes, the apex predator licks his paws and rolls on his back like a domestic cat.

Brazilian cowboy

Other boats inevitably join us, but for those few moments, we have him to ourselves.

grandfather hearding cattle owned a along the It’s the first of Transpantaneira. ranch in 13 sightings. From the area, “but the jaguar swimming if locals benefit through reeds in pursuit of financially, it also a capybara, to a hulking male helps educate the community sunbathing on a sandbank, about conservation.” every encounter is as charged He’s referring to the fact that before jaguars became the focus of a lucrative tourist industry, they were considered a nuisance for killing cattle and were often shot dead.

Then there it is, a flash of a sleek tawny pelt covered in darker rosettes. We sit, and wait. Patience is, after all, the

A Yacare caiman

and exhilarating as the last.

According to Andre von Thuronyi, who runs a farm

and the Araras ecolodge, it’s becoming much easier to see these animals in the wild.

“It took me 11 years to see my first jaguar, now they’re everywhere,” he tells me.

Originally from Rio, Andre arrived in the Pantanal in 1976 “when the road did”. With a shock of long, wiry unkempt hair, it’s as if he’s embodied the very thing that attracted him here in the first place: the wild.

Armadillo, tapir and deer are just a few of the creatures seen in his hotel grounds, and at breakfast we’re joined by dozens of red-crested cardinals, some so bold they even perch on salt cellars.

Andre wants to encourage other farmers in the area to turn their properties into small scale hotels in the hope more people will realise the importance of protecting wildlife. He understands the threat of jaguars to farmers, and uses water buffalo to protect his own team of 100 Pantanal horses.

“People think I’m crazy to live here,” he laughs.

“Brazilians don’t come here; they think it’s full of flies and insects.”

I have to agree. But for me, that’s the very draw.

All creatures great and small, the Pantanal has them in abundance.

Travel Facts Sarah Marshall was a guest of Exodus (www.exodustravels.com; 0845 863 9601) on their 10 day Land Of The Jaguar tour, priced from £4,599 per person, including flights, accommodation, activities and some meals. The next departures are July 27 and September 1, 2014.

Jabiru (a white stork) flying close to the Transpantaneira in Pantanal, Mato Grosso, Brazil

A red-breasted kingfisher on the Three Brothers River, Pantanal

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