representing 120 artists. He recalls, “It gave me everything I wanted and the space to do what I needed.”
From crimson sunsets to shimmering shoreline, St. Pete-Clearwater, Florida looks and feels like a work of art. So, it’s no wonder the destination has drawn creatives from far and wide, earning it the nickname The Arts Coast.
Duncan McClellan, an award-winning glass artist and founder of St. Pete’s Warehouse Arts District, always knew there was something special about St. Pete and saw potential in an old tomato packing plant in an underdeveloped area. There, he would go on to open the Duncan McClellan Gallery—a multifunctional space complete with a gallery, charity and hot shop
Once his vision became a reality, McClellan sought out other artists to join his growing community. As more makers moved in, the Warehouse Arts District was officially named one of St. Pete’s seven arts districts. From the eye-catching murals of the Edge District to the unique storytelling of the Uptown Arts District, each area offers a unique charm, personality and history, and McClellan wanted to be a part of that. “I just started calling it the Warehouse Arts District, and slowly but surely we were able to garner enough artists to put together a board and receive a city designation,” he says.
While each district is bonded by the arts, their social impacts are of equal importance. Take the vibrant Deuces Live District, an area that became a hub for St. Pete’s Black residents, businesses, places of worship and entertainment during segregation. Although the Deuces, named for its 22nd Street location, faced decades of disruption from the construction of Interstate 275, the heart of the community still beats with resiliency, creativity and pride. You can experience this energy for yourself at the annual Tampa Bay Collard Greens Festival,
THERE’S JUST SO MUCH TO DO HERE.
—DUNCAN MCCLELLAN, GALLERY OWNER “ ”
along the African American Heritage Trail, at The Woodson Museum, or over satisfying soul food, cocktails and jazz music.
In addition to these inspiring arts districts, you can’t talk about The Arts Coast without praising the area’s impressive offering of museums. From the breathtaking glass masterpieces of the Chihuly Collection and the Imagine Museum to the worldrenowned Salvador Dalí Museum which McClellan calls “the crown jewel” of St. Pete, art lovers and sunseekers alike will find endless ways to explore the arts through legendary collections and extraordinary exhibits.
While the Sunshine City is aptly named, a great deal of that shine comes from the burgeoning arts scene, where visitors can experience galleries, museums, public art installations, glasswork and so much more. Let’s shine.
Duncan McClellan
The Dalí Museum
As twilight descends, Naples Botanical Garden transforms into a sparkling haven, where Johnsonville Night Lights in the Garden weaves a dazzling display of illumination throughout the lush, tropical landscape and serene water lily ponds. This year marks the 15th anniversary of this monthlong spectacle, which begins Nov. 29 and bathes much of the 170-acre oasis in vibrant colors, igniting a sense of wonder in all who visit.
A favorite holiday tradition in Collier County, this luminous event draws families, couples and curious travelers eager to create unforgettable memories.
“Johnsonville Night Lights in the Garden allows guests to celebrate the unique beauty and energy of winter in the tropics,” says Renée Waller, director of communications and marketing at the Garden. “It's an experience that only Southwest Florida can offer.”
While the Garden is a popular destination during daylight—boasting an impressive collection of tropical plants curated by landscape architect Raymond
Jungles—the nighttime experience offers a whole new realm of beauty. As the gardens glow with soft light, a stroll along the winding pathways invites guests to inhale the intoxicating scents of night-blooming flora.
Beyond the visual feast, visitors can savor a delightful meal at Fogg Cafe, where a culinary adventure awaits alongside special dining options. “The event is a staple in Southwest Florida, and we see travelers from all over the state on road trips to the botanical garden for a weekend winter adventure,” Waller notes.
Since opening its doors to the public in 2009, the Garden has increasingly welcomed guests, now regularly topping more than 260,000 annually. Just a stone’s throw from Naples’s vibrant downtown, it stands as one of the region’s most beloved attractions.
The Night Lights experience beautifully showcases the Garden’s dual charm—revealing its daytime splendor alongside its evening allure, all within just a few hours. But the magic doesn’t stop there. During the day, guests can explore the grounds on expert-led tours or
dive into engaging learning programs that range from birdwatching to botanically inspired arts and crafts.
As one of the highlights of the Garden's bustling fall and winter calendar, this twinkling event is complemented by live music performances, such as the Music in the Garden series, which runs from October to June. The first weekend in November brings the vibrant celebration of Día de Los Muertos, offering a colorful homage to this cherished Mexican holiday. January will see a celebration of plein air painting and an original exhibition reframing how we see nature with Frame & Flora. In February, visitors will see the return of crowd-favorite flower shows.
Visitors from all corners of Florida have discovered the unique charm of the Garden during the fall and winter months. Whether wandering through by day or under the shimmering lights by night, the atmosphere buzzes with life—both botanical and human. So, embrace the enchanting spirit of the season at Naples Botanical Garden.
SHOP UNIQUE HOLIDAY MUST-HAVES FOR YOUR NICE LIST AT OVER 100 RETAIL DESTINATIONS.
Celebrate the Holidays
AT DISNEY SPRINGS®
Enter a world of whimsy and holiday delight when you immerse yourself in a winter wonderland of indulgence at Disney Springs®. Here, you’ll find merrily whatever you’re after this season; gifts for your loved ones, unique and limited-time, palate-pleasing dining options, and one-of-a-kind Yuletide experiences that will bring joy to you, your friends and family.
DINE
with friends and family while taking in the vintage fun at Jock Lindsey’s Hangar Bar, where you can enjoy casual fare with a daring flair, all wrapped in festive holiday décor. Are you in the midst of gift-shopping and checking items off your list? Enjoy a holly-jolly reprieve as delightfully decadent desserts tempt you at The Ganachery and Amorette’s Patisserie.
SHOP
the perfect gifts at over 100 retail destinations including World of Disney® store where you’ll find highly coveted holiday merchandise collections. From matching PJs for the family to holiday Mickey ears and more, you’ll find distinct and Disney-exclusive must-haves for everyone. And if you’re looking for festive home décor and even ornaments that you can personalize, Disney’s Days of Christmas has just what you need to make your holidays merry and bright.
‘Tis the season of merrily whatever you’re after, Nov. 8th–Dec. 30th.
PLAY among a splendid tapestry of décor while you explore 21 uniquely themed trees at the Disney Springs® Christmas Tree Stroll presented by AdventHealth. As nightly "snowfall" accompanies the joyous atmosphere, live holiday entertainment adds a spirited presence with musical performances, snowflake skaters and toy soldier stilt walkers. And of course, you and the family can meet the big guy himself, Santa Claus.
Spend the most wonderful time of year wrapped in holiday magic at Disney Springs® where you can shop, dine and play in the most festive way.
Amelia Island UNWRAP THE CHARM
Step back in time to the Victorian era and spread Christmas cheer at Dickens on Centre.
Every December, something just shy of a Christmas miracle unfolds in downtown Amelia Island. The fresh scent of evergreens drifts along an ocean breeze, steam rises from mugs of hot cocoa and the opening notes of “The First Noel” echo down cobblestone streets. Local vendors sell nutcrackers, seashell ornaments and other wares while marketgoers flit past wearing petticoats and bonnets on their way to a late-night soiree at The Lesesne House. The ghosts of Christmas past and present are out to play at Dickens on Centre, Amelia Island’s annual jolly jubilee based on Charles Dickens’s classic, “A Christmas Carol.” More than a festival, this winter weekend boasts a Victorian market, musical performances, parades, a beach fun run, outdoor movie screenings and more, attracting visitors from across the Southeast. In honor of their 10th anniversary, here’s where to eat, stay and play at Dickens on Centre.
Joyful Spirits
box from Luxe Picnics by Les, which includes Italian black truffle cheese, berries, Swiss milk chocolate toffees and more. After the frosty fantasy, wander around the Christmas market in search of a sweet treat or stop by the fleet of food trucks. Try a mug of gluhwein, a traditional European warm mulled wine, from one of the festival’s on-site pop-up taverns, The Portly Gentlemen or Fezziwig’s Courtyard.
Victorian Charm
Travel to Amelia Island for the four-daylong festival and stay at elegant resorts not far from downtown like Omni Amelia Island Resort, with 402 guest rooms, a full-service spa and 46 holes of golf.
Begin the festivities with the Illuminated Procession, a parade where visitors don their Victorian-era garb and walk down Centre Street with homemade lanterns and decorations, welcoming in the holiday season and kicking off the Dickens festivities. Furry friends can strut their stuff, too, in the Parade of Paws, an animal costume contest. These proud pets compete for titles such as Best Victorian and Looks Most Like Owner, but with cute wagging tails and joyful faces, they’re a shoo-in for Santa’s nice list. Attend musical performances from local bands, choirs and orchestras across two stages.
Hang out at Tiny Tim’s Kid Zone, where families can watch holiday movies, write letters to St. Nick and even meet the jolly man himself. While the children play, adults can sneak away to Dickens After Dark, a 21-and-older soiree at the historic Lesesne House, built in 1860. This year’s theme is Marley’s Masquerade—complete with crinolines, waistcoats and masks—featuring stilt walkers, acrobats, live music and a seemingly endless flow of merriment. Staying off the naughty list might be harder than anticipated.
Inside a Snow Globe
Bring your whimsical spirit and prepare to experience magic at the winter wonderland that is the Dickens Enchanted Village, where guests can spend time inside of a larger-than-life-sized snow globe. Reserve a private hour at one of 10 festively decked-out domes and enjoy a charcuterie grazing
Just up the coast also lies The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island, which boasts seaside vistas, oceanfront tennis courts and epicurean adventures at their renowned restaurant, Salt. For a true Dickens experience, embrace the Victorian-era vibes created at the Amelia Island Williams House, one of several historic inns in town. Built in 1856, this storied home hosts 10 rooms and suites, allowing guests to stay a block away from the many holiday happenings on Centre Street.
In the midst of the merriment downtown, turn toward the sky on Thursday, Friday and Saturday of Dickens on Centre for the Finale Above the Harbor, the annual holiday drone show in which 500 remote-controlled aircrafts digitally paint the spirit of the season. This Dec. 12–15, come make unforgettable holiday memories at Amelia Island’s Dickens on Centre as they celebrate 10 years of Christmas cheer.
Look to the skies for the Finale Above the Harbor, Dickens on Centre’s annual holiday drone show with 500 remote-controlled aircrafts.
On the cover:
CONTENTS
FEATURES
60
THE HOTTEST RESERVATION IN FLORIDA IS ON THE FARM
BY CARRIE HONAKER
Meet the farmers and chefs opening the barn doors for guests to experience the homegrown bounty of a Florida harvest through open-air epicurean dinners taking place this fall and winter across the state.
70
RECORDING HISTORY
BY CRAIG PITTMAN
Lay down a track with rock-and-roll legends at Miami’s music mecca, Criteria Recording Studios, where Eric Clapton spent hours jamming, the Bee Gees first broke into a falsetto and Aretha Franklin recorded her signature hit, “Young, Gifted and Black.”
80
TAMPA TASTE TEST
BY ERIC BARTON
Embark on a gastroexcursion as we eat our way through the state’s underdog city, where the mighty Michelin Guide has bestowed its stars on a new generation of innovative, chef-led dining concepts that reign supreme and where a good ol’-fashioned Cuban sandwich is still king.
Cov er Photography by STEFANIE KEELER
Jacksonville farm and restaurant Congaree and Penn hosts an open-air, six-course chef’s tasting dinner.
15
WADING IN
16 /// ONE-ON-ONE: Professional party girl Seri Kertzner shares insider secrets to throwing the best soiree.
22 /// GIFT GUIDE: 20 Florida-made goods to add to your holiday wish list
29 /// THE SPREAD: Florida’s bourbon boom is on fire.
32 /// MADE IN FLA: Hang ten on Cocoa Beach’s hi-fi wave.
37 /// THE STUDIO: A 30A seamstress breathes new life into storied quilts.
41 /// MY FLORIDA: Chef Art Smith gives a hometown tour and dishes out his family recipes.
46 /// DIVE BAR: Five Miami musicians harness their sound after a long strange trip.
50 /// JUST HATCHED: 12 new places to dine and unwind
DEPARTMENTS
57
COLUMNS
57 /// CAPITAL DAME: Diane Roberts takes us through the fearsome and fickle art of preserving.
90 /// PANHANDLING: Prissy Elrod’s menu for culinary mayhem includes a handsaw, bullet casings and a stubborn high chair.
118 /// FLORIDA WILD: Learn why burns aren’t always a bad thing 93
ON THE FLY
95 /// THE SEASON: 37 ways to celebrate the holidays across the state
107 /// DESIGN DISTRICT: A Miami interior designer likes to live uncomfortably.
112 /// GROVE STAND: Throw back some Salty Birds with the man behind the Panhandle’s Pelican Oyster Co.
116 /// BIRD’S-EYE VIEW: Here’s where to eat, stay and play in Fort Pierce.
120 /// FLORIDIANA: The Junior League of Tampa’s tried-and-true recipes fit for a pirate’s palate
On this spread: Guests enjoy cocktail hour before dinner at Gainesville’s Swallowtail Farm.
Photography by MAVEN
PHOTO + FILM
EDITOR’S NOTE
You’re Invited
Years ago, when my husband and I lived in Northern Virginia, we started a tradition of hosting a New Year’s Eve lobster boil with our extended families. We’d fly in crustaceans from Maine and heat a gigantic pot of water over a burner out in the driveway. In went artichokes, potatoes, corn on the cob, bags of Old Bay seasoning and, of course, the live lobsters. When the medley was done cooking, we’d spread the colorful feast over newspapers on our kitchen island for everyone to dig in.
After dinner, we played a drinking game
So, we invite you to pull up a seat at the table of Flamingo’s inaugural Taste Issue, an ode to Florida’s food culture and everything in good taste—including our holiday Gift Guide and a curated list of seasonal entertainment and road-trip-worthy events. Inside this edition, we embark on a farm tour across the state with writer Carrie Honaker, who introduces us to a cadre of growers and chefs united in the name of sustainability and sunset suppers. Next, contributing editor Eric Barton takes us on a gastro-excursion through Tampa’s thriving dining scene, full of newly minted Michelin stars, under-the-radar eateries and Cuban sandwich standouts. Then, Craig Pittman provides a musical interlude marked by legends and lore in our feature on Miami’s famed Criteria Recording Studios.
In addition, there are personal stories to devour from the childhood tales of Sunshine State chef Art Smith to the family recipes of Flamingo columnist Diane Roberts. Meet a party-throwing guru, slurp Salty Birds with an oyster aficionado, take a peek inside Miami’s finest restaurants and jam to a band with a tangy sound. Like those early lobster boil
jamie@flamingomag.com
unexpected flavors, entertaining inspiration,
FLAMBOYANCE
THOUGHTS FROM THE FLOCK
Floating in an inner tube on the Ichetucknee, my tube rotated so I was traveling backward and I nearly ran over a trio of otters. Someone alerted me just in time!
—Clueless Tuber
I enjoyed reading this wonderfully written article. It’s nice to know the history of some of our state parks. Save our parks.
—Passionate For Parks
If you’re a South Floridian and a lobster roll lover like me, head to City Oyster in Delray Beach or the Dive Bar in Jupiter. It’s the best bite of tender lobster on a pillowy soft bun you’ve ever tasted. Bar none!
—Lobster Snob
My favorite memory of Florida’s freshwater springs is when my daughter and I learned to put up a tent and make a fire by ourselves in Gilchrist Blue Springs State Park. We also jumped off the high jump platform. —Proud Mom
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief and Founder JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com
The Caeleb Dressel interview got me so hyped to cheer for a fellow Floridian during the Olympics. —Super Fan
I spent some time considering this hotel for an upcoming birthday celebration, and a couple hours later, I got your email about it. Must be a sign that I should book it!
—O-Town Bound
Have been a subscriber for as long as y’all have been around and love every single story. Y’all encapsulate the spirit of Florida so well and still find people and places I didn’t know about! —Flamingo Pal
“FRESH SQUEEZED” FEEDBACK
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
My family was vacationing on the Weeki Wachee River and we went for an early morning paddle in our canoe. We wandered into a dead-end canal in a neighborhood and two manatees came up to the canoe and started to check us out. The spray from their snouts landed on us—that’s how close they were. They would pat the sides of the canoe with their flippers, and we just got to sit there quietly and take it all in. One of the single most incredible experiences of my life, sharing that with my family. —Manatee Lover
Long before it became a park, Fanning Springs was paradise. My family had a cabin just up from the springs on the Suwannee River. Everyday we would boat into Fanning Springs and swim. Then we’d jump from the old two-story dock into the bubbling spring. Manatees would wander in and out, and we would swim beside them yet instinctively knew to leave them be. The masses of rivergrass held so many fish and, yes, an occasional water moccasin. It was idyllic. —Spring Purist
Creative Director Holly Keeperman art@flamingomag.com
Contributing Designer Ed Melnitsky edit@flamingomag.com
Art Production Manager Kerri Rak
Senior Writer and Contributing Editor Eric Barton
Contributing Writers
Steve Dollar, Prissy Elrod, Carrie Honaker, Nan Kavanaugh, Alyssa Morlacci, Craig Pittman, Melissa Puppo, Diane Roberts, Maddy Zollo Rusbosin, Nila Do Simon, Art Smith, Jeffrey Spear, Carlton Ward Jr.
Contributing Photographers & Illustrators
Leslie Chalfont, Beth Gilbert, Stephen Lomazzo, Jules Ozaeta, Kristen Penoyer, Savannah Young, Carlton Ward Jr.
Readers share their state park stories after reading our feature, “Into the Wild,” which includes a special edition illustrated poster detailing all 175 state parks.
Join the flamboyance (a flock of flamingos) by signing up for our weekly “Fresh Squeezed” newsletter at flamingomag.com, and tell us what you think.
Advertising Sales Director Janis Kern janis@flamingomag.com
Newsstand Distribution Tom Ferruggia tferruggia@msn.com
Contact Us
JSR Media LLC 13000 Sawgrass Village Circle Bldg. 3, Suite 12 Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32082
P: (904) 395-3272 // E: info@flamingomag.com
Above: Paddlers on the Weeki Wachee River
CONTRIBUTORS
covers food and culture as a senior writer and contributing editor for Flamingo.
In our inaugural Taste Issue, the Miami-based food critic heads to Tampa to take a deep dive into the city’s booming dining scene, in which Barton says he was impressed to see chef-driven concepts on par with the epicurean momentum in his own hometown. Tampa holds a special place in Barton’s heart, as it was there—as a student at Florida Southern College—that he discovered his favorite wouldn’t-expect-this pierogi spot in Ybor City. Read about his culinary return to Tampa in our feature story on page 80
KRISTEN PENOYER is a South Florida native and forever Florida girl at heart, despite having lived and worked abroad in five different countries. An artist since childhood, she’s an acclaimed culinary photographer and has produced work for many of the world’s most admired brands. Her latest project, “Florida is Beautiful,” is a collection of one-of-a-kind, large-format, black-and-white photographs that she develops in a dark room, embodying her affection for home and reverence for the South. Inside this issue, her photos can be seen in our Holiday Gift Guide on
NAN KAVANAUGH is a sixthgeneration Floridian and an awardwinning editor and writer. Having lived on the Gulf and Atlantic Coasts, as well as the swamplands in between, she has a deep appreciation for the cultures and biodiversity of the Sunshine State. She is co-author of the acclaimed “Southern Cooking, Global Flavors,” named one of the best cookbooks of 2023 by the Los Angeles Times. In this issue, Kavanaugh explores the culinary heritage of Junior League cookbooks and the women who created them. Read her take in our Floridiana department on page 120
ART SMITH, native Floridian and James-Beard-Award-winning chef, discovered his love of Southern cooking growing up on a farm in North Florida, where he credits his mother and grandmother for shaping his culinary instincts. Today, he is the owner of Homecomin’ Florida Kitchen & Southern Shine Bar at Disney Springs in Orlando and Blue Door Kitchen & Garden in Chicago. In this issue, Smith shares his untraditional path to success, from the Florida Governor’s Mansion to the hills of Hollywood and many points in between. Don’t miss his My Florida essay on page 41
ED MELNITSKY is a seasoned art director and graphic designer with a career spanning print and digital work for healthcare brands and national luxury magazines such as Redbook, Seventeen, Mademoiselle and regional publications such as Naples-based Gulfshore Life. Devoted to combining words and visuals that engage and resonate with audiences, Melnitsky also creates graphic design for indie comic books and graphic novels in his spare time. In his Flamingo debut, Melnitsky’s keen design aesthetic is evident
SAVANNAH YOUNG is a lifestyle photographer based in Santa Rosa Beach, where she says the picturesque settings make it easy to capture memories that last a lifetime. A Memphis, Tennessee native, Young brings passion to her work with families, couples and lifestyle brands, helping clients bring their visions to life. Her laid-back and professional style shines through each project she tackles. In this issue of Flamingo, Young captures the craft of Santa Rosa Beach-based textile artist and clothier Mary Ellen DiMauro. You can see her work in the Studio department on page 37
THE SLICE
PRODUCTS + EVENTS + PROMOTIONS
PRODUCTS + EVENTS + PROMOTIONS
Start our inaugural TASTE ISSUE with these BITES, BEATS and
GIVE THE GIFT
DELICIOSO
SUNSHINE TREATS
.
Spice up your kitchen with “Real Housewives of Miami” and Food Network Star Ana Quincoces’s “Modern Cuban” cookbook. From sofrito to tangy mojo criollo and Cuban-style fried chicken, Quincoces reinvents the classics with personality and some surprises. Think: gluten-free, vegan yuca frita and tostones. And don’t miss the pastelitos de guayaba y queso (guava and cheese pastries)—dessert for breakfast, anyone? Whether you’re craving comfort food or something on the lighter side, this cookbook fuses old-school Cuban flavors with today’s culinary creativity.
TURN IT UP
Feel the rhythm of 1970s Miami with the classic Eric Clapton album “461 Ocean Boulevard,” inspired by the street he called home while recording it at the city’s Criteria Recording Studios. With tracks that chronicle heartbreak, redemption and the pursuit of love, Clapton takes listeners on a deeply personal journey. Press play and immerse yourself in the rich, sunsoaked vibes of Miami’s golden era.
Share the spirit of the Sunshine State with an annual subscription to Flamingo, delivered quarterly. Each issue features stories of fascinating Floridians, off-the-beaten-path destinations and the culinary traditions that define the state. From new music to timeless style, this is the perfect gift for anyone who loves Florida’s wild beauty and rich culture—or keep the collection for yourself and savor the best of the Sunshine State. flamingomag.com
COOKIE CRAZY
Get swept up in Florida’s cookie craze, where sweet-toothed artisans are baking up nostalgia with a modern twist. Meet five visionary bakers who’ve turned their kitchens into cookie wonderlands, creating everything from gooey, melty bites to crispy, crunchy perfections. Ready for your next sugar fix? Scan the QR code to discover your new favorite cookie spot, and let the cravings begin.
— Floridians, fare, finds —
WADING IN
One-on-One
—
How Seri Kertzner made partying her profession
Gift Guide —
Santa’s Workshop has nothing on these Florida makers.
The Spread
—
Blue skies and brown liquor
MADE IN FLA —
DJ’s got us falling in love (with speakers) again
the studio
Heirlooms turn into stylish threads on 30A.
My Florida
Chef Art Smith takes us home for dinner.
Dive Bar
Mustard Service, anyone?
Just Hatched
The butcher, the baker and the book-box maker
WADING IN:ONE-ON-ONE
CONVERSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STORIES
By Emilee Perdue
LIFE’S A PARTY
Professional party girl Seri Kertzner dishes on her hosting must-haves and top tips for throwing the hottest holiday celebration.
WADING IN:ONE-ON-ONE
CONVERSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STORIES
For Seri Kertzner, event stylist, business owner and professional partier, every day is a celebration. From throwing extravagant soirees in New York for brands such as L’Oréal Paris and Maybelline New York—not to mention the wrap party for Steven Spielberg’s “West Side Story”—to opening her first brick-andmortar storefront in Ponte Vedra Beach, where she and her family have lived since 2020, Kertzner’s life is raining confetti. And even though it looks like effortless fun, this party girl has spent the past decade working hard for what she wants. “A lot of people will look at my life and say to me, ‘You’re so lucky,’” Kertzner, 45, told Flamingo while giving a behind-the-scenes tour of The Social Society, her new party goods and gift store. “And my husband’s always like, ‘You’re not lucky. You make your own work.’ When I want something, I just make things happen. I’m a doer.” Kertzner’s make-it-happen approach is present in every detail of The Social Society, from the personalized water bottles reading “Dylan’s 12th birthday” to the Rifle Paper Co. oversized number balloons to the mural in the back office that reads, “Work hard, party harder.”
Flamingo recently caught up with Kertzner in her new retail space to talk about soiree essentials, hosting tips for the holidays and the best party she’s ever thrown.
YOU WERE INSPIRED BY DINNERS WITH YOUR GRANDMOTHER WHEN YOU WERE A CHILD. WHAT WERE THOSE LIKE?
Seri Kertzner: I was very close with my grandmother. She died just a couple years ago. She was 100, so she lived an amazing life. I called her my Bubbe. She was a Holocaust survivor. I haven’t talked about her in a while. She was an amazing woman, and she would host Friday night dinners every week. I had another grandmother who I was very close with, and they would both host. Every week we would gather and they would set the table, and it was all our family and our cousins. It was matzo ball soup and chicken and potatoes and salad. I love to host because that’s ingrained in me. I host all the major holidays like Thanksgiving and Rosh Hashanah and Passover. I love doing it, and I go all out. I do flowers, I do name
cards and it’s a big deal. It’s just the nicest way to gather family together.
WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS THAT MAKE A PARTY STAND OUT?
THE SOCIAL SOCIETY
— LOCATION—
300 PINE LAKE DRIVE PONTE VEDRA BEACH
—PHONE — (904) 709-4550
thesocialsociety.com
SK: It’s attention to detail and making your guests feel comfortable in your home. If you host and are stressed, your guests are going to be stressed. I think it’s really important to plan in advance and have everything you need on hand before everyone arrives. If you’re doing the cooking, make sure everything is well-prepped and you’re not running around sweating in the kitchen. Pretty plates and party crackers that you can set at everyone’s place so they have something fun and engaging to do when they sit down. The cups, the utensils, napkins, fresh flowers. All of that goes a really long way.
WHAT IS ONE WAY YOU HOST OVER THE HOLIDAYS?
SK: Every Christmas we do Christmukkuh (with friends). We combine our two traditions between Hanukkah and Christmas. We do it at their house because they have the big Christmas tree. I bring over my special electric frying pan and make latkes, and then we do a gift exchange. This is an almost potluck-type dinner, where you’d have the cute paper plates, the Christmas crackers, the kids are there, and it just feels very comfortable and relaxed and fun and thoughtful.
HOW DO YOU CREATE A CHIC HOLIDAY ATMOSPHERE WITH MINIMAL EFFORT?
SK: Candlelight is really nice over the holidays. Soft lighting, festive music and being prepared. Being able to put out a plate that’s festive, that’s shaped like an ornament or a Jewish star or red, white and green tableware that you can bring out at the last minute. If you have a fireplace, it’s always nice to turn on the fire. It’s nice when you decorate inside. I don’t celebrate Christmas, but I love decorating for Christmas. We’re going to sell these holly balls. They’re inflatable ornaments. They’re so fun; you can just have those blown up and styled around your house.
HOW CAN OUR READERS HOST WITH CONFIDENCE?
SK: Being prepared is the best advice I
Above: In September 2024, Seri Kertzner hosted a ribbon-cutting ceremony for The Social Society, Kertzner’s first brick-and-mortar party goods and gift store in Ponte Vedra Beach.
SERI’S HOSTING TIPS
1 2
Be prepared. Don’t go crazy cleaning your whole house before a party. Make sure everything’s tidy, but do the major cleanup afterward.
3 4
Music! You need playlists that are long enough and fun, and you don’t want it to be boring.
Make it festive. Think about how you’re going to decorate and set your table.
This page: Kertzner inside her new retail space in Ponte Vedra Beach
WADING IN:ONE-ON-ONE
CONVERSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STORIES
have. Key essentials to me are cups, napkins, cocktail plates, candles. It’s really nice to have a pretty set of matches on hand for lighting candles. Being prepared with your gifting helps with your hosting so you’re not thinking, “Okay, I now have to buy 14 gifts for my family members and friends, and I haven’t done that, that’s stressing me out.” After Thanksgiving, make your list and get that all done, get it all wrapped. That becomes decor, having gifts wrapped under the tree.
HOW DO YOU MINIMIZE PARTY CLEANUP?
SK: With disposable party wear, throw it all in the garbage. Except for your Party People cups that I made, because those could be reused. I really love disposable party wear. Some of it is biodegradable that we sell. Some of it is recyclable. People aren’t hosting with disposable items every day, so to be able to do that for the big holidays just makes your life easier. It’s a much faster cleanup, it looks pretty and you’re not slaving at the sink for hours after. I don’t like having to then go clean up in the kitchen, and it feels like the party breaks up. If you’re setting the table with disposable items that you can toss into a trash can after, and continue with your night.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PARTY YOU’VE THROWN?
SK: We got to do the wrap party for the “West Side Story” movie for Steven Spielberg. That was like a time to pinch myself. That was crazy, and it was such a success. It was such a cool party, and everyone was so lovely and such nice people to work with.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE COCKTAIL TO HAVE ON HAND?
SK: When you’re stocking your pantry and fridge, you should always have prosecco on hand around the holidays. That’s just so easy and inexpensive. I keep tons of juices: cranberry, orange, pomegranate. I cook a lot at home, so I always have fresh herbs in the fridge. Around the holidays, I always have rosemary, prosecco and a splash of cranberry. Put in a sprig of rosemary. Keep some frozen cranberries in your freezer. They act like ice cubes—amazing and easy and festive.
WHAT ITEMS SHOULD EVERY HOST HAVE AT ALL TIMES?
SK: A serving tray. Cocktail napkins. Don’t ever put out food without cocktail napkins. People are going to need them for their hands or to put (food) on there. And then glassware. I’m a huge fan of real glassware from Ikea. It’s like $1 a glass, but they have such cool glasses in unique patterns and shapes. If it breaks, then you don’t feel bad about it.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE WAY TO CELEBRATE THE HOLIDAYS?
SK: I have traditional parties with certain people. One is our Christmukkuh. We do that every single year. Another tradition is with my staff. We do a gift exchange that we take very seriously. At every one of these traditional parties, I make my latkes. Everyone loves my latkes. It’s got a whole serving bar. There’s sour cream and chives and all different kinds of toppings. Other than that, the holiday season is a time for me to travel with my family. The first half of December are my party weeks. My birthday is also Dec. 8. The last two weeks are (spent) traveling with my family. Last year we went to South Africa. This year we’re going to Japan and Thailand.
IF YOU COULD THROW THE ENTIRE STATE OF FLORIDA A PARTY, WHAT WOULD IT BE LIKE?
SK: To me, this truly is the Sunshine State. When we moved into our house, the backyard was just grass and I completely built it out. I put in an outdoor kitchen, a lounge area with couches and a TV, a pool and a mini golf area. I can’t tell you how much we host in that backyard. If I could have the entire state of Florida in my backyard, it would be a backyard barbecue. You’d be playing golf and throwing footballs in the pool. We’d have the Jags game on. We’d have great food, great drinks, great music. I’d put out speakers. I’ve got stunning lighting back there. It would be fun in the sun, and then the sun goes down, and you’re under the palm trees that are lit up beautifully under the stars. That would be my dream party for Florida.
Top left: Kertzner’s event styling company, Rev New York, put the sparkle in Hallmark’s 2023 holiday party in New York.
Right: Kertzner is ready to party in her Ponte Vedra Beach home.
This page: Kertzner’s kitchen table is prepped for Hanukkah with a menorah and latke spread.
Seri’s Latkes
Serves 16
4 large russet potatoes (9 to 11 ounces each)
1 small white onion
2 eggs, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Corn oil for frying
Desired toppings
PREPARATION: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Place a wire rack in a shallow baking pan. Peel potatoes. Use the coarse blade of a box grater to shred potatoes into a large bowl of
ice water. Grate onion on the fine blade of a box grater (approximately 1/2 cup of grated onion). Drain potatoes, and transfer them to a bowl lined with a clean flour sack towel or a fine-mesh 100% cotton cheesecloth. Gently wrap and squeeze the towel, removing as much liquid as possible. In a large bowl, combine potatoes, onion, eggs, flour, salt and black pepper, then stir. Heat 1/4 inch of oil over medium-high heat in a heavy nonstick skillet until the oil shimmers. For each latke, scoop a small handful of potato mixture, about 1/4 cup, and squeeze gently over the bowl. Flatten mixture and add to skillet. Repeat, adding a few at a time so as not to overcrowd the pan. Fry each side for 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown. Transfer to wire rack in shallow baking pan to drain and keep warm in the oven while preparing the remaining latkes. Serve warm with toppers.
Seri’s Latke Topping Combos
Honey-Nut: sliced apples or pears, honey, chopped pistachios
Salmon-Dill: smoked salmon or lox, creme fraiche, fresh dill
Sour Cream and Onion: sour cream or labneh or Greek yogurt, plus fresh chives or scallions
Of course, you can always simply serve your latkes with the traditional toppings of applesauce or sour cream on the side.
MEET THE SUNSHINE STATE’S MERRIEST MAKERS
By Maddy Zollo Rusbosin
Wrapped in Local Love
Fa-la-la-la-la, it’s the holidays in Florida! No matter how you plan to celebrate, ’tis the season to Give gifts that encapsulate our state’s sunny disposition while supporting local businesses and artisans. We've curated 20 finds—from bar-cart essentials to stylish accessories—sure to make the holidays merry and bright.
This page: Infuse some sunshine into your holiday giving with a range of gifts and goods such as Orchard Pond's gift boxes, Kozuba & Sons Distillery BarBox or citrus vodka, J.F. Haden's flavored liqueur, Corkcicle's Palmpress, savory bites from Meat N' Bone or sweet surprises from Cupcake Sushi.
1. FARM TO SKIN
Give the gift of good skin. Inspired by its Lake County roots, this woman-owned beauty company formulates all its products, including this trio, with hand-harvested, complexion-boosting ingredients.
Healthy Skin Trio: Organic Retinoic oil cleanser, Renewing Essence, Seeds of Today facial serum and Facial Shammy, $176
2. ADRIANA CASTRO
Petite in size, big on style: This python clutch with a removable horn shoulder chain checks all the boxes for accessorizing. The Miami designer’s bags, popular among the celeb set, are made to order, ensuring quality and craftsmanship.
Alicia Mini in Python, $1,685
3. MARGOT LARKIN
Has there ever been a prettier backgammon board? We think not. Artist Margot Larkin hand paints each one, like this mushroom-adorned design that’s part of her collaboration with Palm Beach’s Casa Branca x Nine Fair, making it an heirloom piece that’ll be the talk of the next game night. Mushroom Backgammon Board, $2,500
4. CORKCICLE
Channel your inner barista with the Palmpress. The travelfriendly, portable press brews in just three minutes so you can get a serious java fix at your desk, on the road or wherever the caffeine craving strikes. Palmpress, $49.95
5. CUPCAKE SUSHI
Skip the plum pudding! Instead, wow guests with Key West’s gourmet Cupcake Sushi. Every bite-size creation has a moist cake with premium fillings rolled in chocolate. Served in a bento box with chopsticks, they’re almost too pretty to eat. Cupcake Sushi, $23-$850 1
6. J’DA PALM BEACH
While this boutique is brimming with gift-worthy clothes and accessories, a leather cigar case is a sophisticated stocking stuffer for the stogie lover in your life. Choose between four bold colorways and a single or double cigar design. Cigar Case, $65-$75
7. PLANT THE FUTURE
This isn’t your average plant store— it’s an international biophilic design and art movement. The Wynwood horticultural brand offers moss chandeliers, living murals, moss wall decor, like this Lightning Bolt, and so much more.
Lightning Bolt, $90-$510
8. BURNIE
Never struggle with building or cleaning up a campfire again. This Jacksonville company has created a single-use, all-wood, self-burning portable grill that dissolves to ash once it’s done. It’s an eco-friendly solution for tailgates, camping, backyard s’mores and more.
Essential Burnie Grill Set, $49.99
9. MEAT N’ BONE
A mouthwatering steak is the easiest way to spread holiday cheer. Miami’s Meat N’ Bone delivers curated gift boxes and baskets with premium meats ranging from wild boar chops to venison fillets to bison ribeyes. Gift boxes and baskets, Starting at $9.99
10. ALEPEL
Leopard-adorned mules? Yes, please! Alepel’s crafted leather goods are brought to life with hand-painted motifs by a team of Miami artists, making each piece a work of art.
Leopard beige slide, $245
11. RIFLE PAPER CO.
Winter Park’s blooming lifestyle brand is infusing florals into a new collection of melamine serveware. These playful scalloped dinner plates are durable, lightweight and the perfect addition to your next al fresco dinner party—whether it's poolside or on the beach.
Melamine plates, $42 for four
12. CHAOS FISHING
“Your gear, your way” is the mantra of Pompano Beach’s Chaos Fishing, a haven for rods and reels, like this Chaos ECL 30-50 2PC Butt 6-ft gold rod, plus they also offer completely custom builds.
ECL 30-50 2PC Butt 6-ft gold rod, $269.99
13. NAHLA ARTESANO
Two Central Florida friends are behind this home decor and tabletop accessories brand. Artisanal designs, like these woven napkin rings, are handcrafted in Colombia and embody a distinct tropical-chic vibe, perfect for Sunshine State tablescapes.
Napkin rings, $8; Basket, $95
14. ENGEL COOLERS
Any Florida outdoorsman will tell you that quality gear makes all the difference. Case and point: this versatile drybox/cooler from Jupiterbased Engel Coolers. Use it to keep food and drinks cold or electronics and first aid kits dry. 13 Quart Drybox/Cooler, $79.99
15. KOZUBA & SONS DISTILLERY
Thanks to this St. Pete brand’s BarBoxes, boxed booze is back and better than ever. Each container (as seen on page 22) serves more than 14 ready-todrink, all-natural craft cocktails. Or simply give the gift of cheer with a bottle of flavored vodka. BarBox, Lemon Flavored Vodka, $24.99 each
16. ORCHARD POND
Farm-to-table has never been easier thanks to this Tallahassee organic farm’s variety of holiday gift boxes, brimming with local flavors straight from their fields with products like tupelo honey and a made-from-scratch nutty granola mix.
Holiday gift boxes, $50-$150
with all-natural ingredients,
Mike and Maurkice Pouncey created J.F. Haden’s to take
cocktails. Inspired by tropical vibes, these flavored liqueurs
kitchen. Part cookbook, part insider’s guide, this collection of recipes—from Miami-based food writer Sara Liss—pays tribute to the Magic City's vibrant culinary scene and culture with dishes straight from some of South Florida's most famous chefs. “Miami Cooks” cookbook, $32.99
20. KATARINA TIFFT ART
Deck the halls with a oneof-a-kind commission from Katarina Tifft. The Florida sculptural artist is known for her intricate geometric shellscapes, which you can customize to fit your style and range in size from large statement pieces to small tabletop decor.
Pricing upon request
As the leaves begin to turn and the air grows crisp, there’s no better time to discover the beauty of life at Palmetto Blu —and make it your own. Nestled in the heart of the South Carolina Lowcountry, our 20,000 acres and 32 miles of shoreline o er the perfect setting for your next adventure and, perhaps, your forever home. Experience the magic of fall at Palmetto Blu .
WADING IN :THE SPREAD
FLORIDA-FRESH BITES & BEVS
By Jeffrey Spear
FLORIDA’S BOURBON BOOM
The Sunshine State’s Craft Distilleries are Coming of Age.
In the land of sunshine and sand, Florida is crafting a bourbon revolution that’s as rich and complex as the state’s own history. The following are four whiskey distillers that capture the essence of the state’s fledgling, albeit ambitious, movement.
The spirit of America’s oldest city seeps through wooden barrels and into clinking glasses filled with specialty ice, warming the palate's of eager imbibers soaking up Old Florida folklore on the ground floor of a historic ice plant, now known as the St. Augustine Distillery. Bessie,
the stripping still, and Ella, the spirit still, take the grand stage as guests mill about, sampling the smooth amber bounty and learning about the century-old building’s past life.
The St. Augustine Distillery, which opened in 2014 in the historic FP&L Ice
This page: St. Augustine Distillery's 750-gallon stripping still, nicknamed Bessie
2 ounces 30A Distilling Co. Blue Mountain Beach Bourbon
1/2 ounce black currant puree
1/2 ounce Earl Grey tea
1/2 ounce lemon, juiced
2 dashes of Angostura bitters
1 scoop of ice
PREPARATION: In a cocktail shaker, muddle fresh blackberries, then add all other ingredients. Shake, strain and pour into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and a skewered blackberry. For added aromatics, lightly singe the rosemary with a torch.
THE SPREAD
FLORIDA-FRESH BITES & BEVS
Plant, is one of the well-known bourbon giants in the state. The popular American aromatic beverage is aged in charred white oak barrels for at least three years, making the Northeast Florida distillery—and the rest of the state’s bourbon scene—younger than other tried-and-true producers nationwide.
Based on the heat, humidity and salt air in which St. Augustine Distillery produces their bourbon, and the flavors imparted by the water and high-quality grains, the golden elixir that results is marketed as Florida bourbon. St. Augustine pours a straight bourbon that’s perfect for everyday drinking, a port-finished bourbon that’s matured in port wine barrels and the Saint Bourbon, their undisputed finest.
Heading south from North Florida
through green pastures and under mossy oak trees lies James Two Brothers Distillers, an Ocala-based microdistillery that takes a hands-on approach to make smoother, more delicate bourbons compared to their mass-produced counterparts. Paul James and his son, Taylor, oversee the distillery, including tours and tastings, and produce a properly postured bourbon. This family-owned-and-operated business hails from a long line of distillers, dating back to Civil War-era Kentucky.
Marlin & Barrel Distillery in Fernandina Beach is another small company with a curated craft. According to Roger Morenc, the distillery’s owner,
Left: The Smoke N Berry cocktail from 30A Distilling Co.
We experiment and make a lot of bourbons that never get beyond our front door.
— ROGER MORENC
“We experiment and make a lot of bourbons that never get beyond our front door.” He welcomes whiskey enthusiasts looking for a new batch to visit their stillhouse. Their cask-strength Shoreline straight bourbon, aged for at least three years, is a single-barrel release often in short supply.
One of the state’s newest craft 30A Distilling Co., located in Santa Rosa Beach. Having opened in 2022, their small batch whiskey program is still emerging, meaning that their output of properly aged bourbons is relatively small,
sometimes just a few dozen bottles. Considering the successes this distillery has achieved with other spirits—especially their rum, gin and limoncello—their bourbon is one to watch.
Bourbon is marked by innovation, creativity and experimentation. Sometimes the most flavorful ideas are brewed in a barrel and revisited years later. When asked which of his bourbons is his favorite, Ric deMontmollin, the vice president of production at St. Augustine Distillery, said, “It’s the one that’s just gone in the barrel and won’t be released for at least five years.”
This page: Visit the St. Augustine Distillery for guided tours, educational courses on the science behind the craft, a bourbon and truffle pairing flight and a fill-your-own-bottle experience.
Below: Single-batch bourbon from James Two Brothers Distillers, based in Ocala
WADING IN :MADE IN FLA
By Steve Dollar
HI-FI REVIVAL
How Chris Baus’s vintage hi-fi refurbishment hobby fueled a listening movement Across Florida
Audio designer Chris Baus isn’t afraid of a weird niche. When he and his wife, Eylin, launched their hi-fi studio Cathode Bias in Miami amid the COVID-19 pandemic, they wanted to break the norm. “Our philosophy is that hi-fi and PA systems in particular have gotten pretty boring,” says Baus, who currently runs his business out of Cocoa Beach and Reno, Nevada. “It’s a black box in the corner.”
Not so, however, for Cafe Sound, the line of vintage-style speakers Baus custom builds for bars, DJ pop-ups and home systems as well as hi-fi lounges, trendy new spaces where vinyl records spin amid fancy cocktails and the glow of refurbished tube amplifiers. One recently updated La Modesta, the signature model they work
with, is as citrusy as the state that spawned it, boasting a lime-green cabinet topped with a cast aluminum horn in bright orange. One of the couple’s larger-scale systems comes in pink. “My wife’s a big influence,” Baus says. “She’s from Venezuela—bright colors are in more common play.”
Baus posts photos of the speakers and various works in progress on his Instagram account @cathodebias, a handle that references vacuum tube electronics lingo. The account also steers the curious to two related Instagram pages and a website. He was surprised at the response. “Turns out people actually want them,” he says. “We’re also working on another pair that’s going to be bright yellow and green. It was kind of an experiment. But honestly, we got a lot of interest in what we’re doing.”
This page: A close-up of the pink horn system that Baus keeps in his listening room.
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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA
My wife’s a big influence. She’s from Venezuela—bright colors are in more common play.
—CHRIS BAUS
If the bold colors grab the eye with innovative flair, what catches the ear is a throwback to a classic era in audio. Baus takes cues from the kind of old-school analog systems popular in Japan, where dedicated fans of record listening frequent cafes known as jazz kissa. The tradition dates back to the 1920s, when jazz, among other American cultural exports, found a fascinated audience in Japan. The concept has traveled back to the United States (and worldwide), with dozens of spots across the country like Bar Shiru in Oakland, California; Shibuya HiFi in Seattle; Public Records in Brooklyn; and Miami Sound Bar and Dante’s HiFi in Miami.
A vintage hi-fi enthusiast for more than 30 years, Baus looks back to the cabinet design of JBL speakers, a brand launched
after World War II, and Altec Lansing, famous for its Voice of the Theatre speakers, a 1940s standard for America’s bijous. “But we bring sort of a modern componentry to it,” he explains. “Modern woofers, modern compression drivers, modern horns.” Because the speakers are high-efficiency, they can be driven by lowwatt tubed electronics—another throwback to technology that predated the market takeover of by solid-state electronics in the ’60s and ’70s. The Cafe Sound speakers, which can be made to order, range in cost from $3,200 for the La Modestas to $15,000 (and up) for a large system such as the vintage Altec A5 bass cabinets Baus recently “restromodded”—restored with handcrafted birch veneer, vintage components and multi-cell horns fashioned
Thise page, clockwise: Two lime-green La Modesta models, set up for a Latin vinyl night in Reno, Nevada; Cathode Bias founder Chris Baus behind the turntable; vintage Marantz 8B stereo tube amplifier
Before there was the internet, music was part of our culture a lot more than it is now.
—CHRIS BAUS
in Baltic birch from a design first in use in the 1930s. Besides looking cool, the horn design widens the sweet spot for anyone not sitting right in front of the speaker. Baus also discovered another benefit. “They smooth out even roughersounding vinyl. You’ll be able to fill the room but also to naturally attenuate some of the noise that you get from vinyl on typical speakers.”
This back-to-the-future aesthetic has leapt beyond the hobbyist and audiophile realms to a newly fashionable status. Devon Turnbull, who designs and builds distinctive hi-fi systems in New York, often collaborates with fashion houses and art galleries and counts numerous celebrities as clients (along with selling DIY kits on his ojas.nyc website and out of a Soho storefront).
Baus hopes to offer guidance to any entrepreneurs who get the bug. “A lot of people in this market make the mistake of using standard hi-fi speakers and finding they don’t fill the room quite the way they expect,” he says. And unlike in Japan, where silence is the golden rule among patrons who listen intently, Americans like to talk a lot. “In a lot of ways, the music is a background to what other people are doing.” Nonetheless, the music cuts through and makes a connection.
“For my generation, and other generations before there was the internet, music was part of our culture a lot more than it is now,” Baus says. “People are wanting to return to that a little bit. I think the momentum is growing.”
This page: This lime-green La Modesta model is a favorite for listening cafes, DJs and private home systems.
WADING IN :THE STUDIO
FLORIDA ARTIST PROFILES
By Carrie Honaker • Photography by Savannah Young
STORIED STITCHES
MARY ELLEN DIMAURO takes treasured heirlooms and crafts them into stylish, wearable art.
Beams of morning light slice through the concrete dust hanging in the air inside Mary Ellen DiMauro’s soon-to-be storefront when a soft rap on the door draws her attention. Amy Owens, a repeat customer and the artist who told her about the space, eagerly holds up an antique dresser scarf. DiMauro, clad in one of her own tops fashioned from vintage towels, meets her outside the shop and away from the construction noise inside.
Owens spreads the fabric out so DiMauro can see the intricately embroidered bluebirds tying a ribbon of pink flowers and delicate lace trim. “I call my daughter little bird and thought you could make something from this I could wear,” Owens says.
DiMauro examines the treasured dresser scarf and begins drafting ideas aloud right there on the sidewalk as Owens scrolls through images on her phone of tops made from antique doilies, handkerchiefs and tablecloths.
“I trust you to make something beautiful,” Owens says.
DiMauro grew up in Athens, Georgia, dreaming of making art at the beach as she ran around her neighborhood pool houses foraging Capri Sun pouches to craft into purses. When she was 10, her grandmother gave her a sewing machine for Christmas—19 years later, she practices the craft her Mimi taught her while living her dream on the Emerald Coast of Florida.
Inside the shop, an antique handcarved mirror made in India and found in New Orleans leans against the back wall, waiting to become the focal point of the try-on space. Industrial plumbing pipe will become racks to hang her vintage quilt collection, destined to become coats and apparel like her upcycled denim line and reversible kimonos. A collection of ’40s vintage handkerchiefs, waiting to be patchworked into dresses with angled hemlines and straps crafted from vintage
Previous page: DiMauro makes custom, one-ofa-kind clothing and accessories using vintage fabrics like quilts, tablecloths and handkerchiefs.
This page: DiMauro recently opened her first storefront in Santa Rosa Beach selling her popular quilt jackets, towel tops, custom orders and more.
lace, pile high near where she will install her sewing machine.
“I’m a people person. I have so many customers online that I’ve never met,” she says. “With the increasingly massproduced world today, people want to see the person making their clothes, know they can entrust their tablecloth passed down through the family and their quilt honoring their grandmother’s memory. And the old soul in me never wants brick-and-mortar to die.”
As the pandemic raged and everything shut down, DiMauro took a year off from her business, designing and sewing dresses and jumpsuits made from sustainable deadstock fabric and sold on Instagram, to travel to Costa Rica and think about her
WADING IN :THE STUDIO
FLORIDA ARTIST PROFILES
to wear at her celebration of life ceremony.
“These were handmade pieces I had the honor of remaking into something that reminds them of her every time they put them on,” DiMauro says.
When her dream storefront opened on 30A in Santa Rosa Beach in August, she featured the works of other makers, with local art hanging on the dove-colored walls and a variety of sustainable clothing
lines populating the built-in shelves. A future collaboration with local artist Juli Stever includes a project fusing lace from DiMauro into Stever’s handmade coffee mugs, bowls and soap dishes.
Today, she sources completely from previously owned fabrics and garments, breathing new life into something once loved but discarded. She adds, “Whatever piece I find tells me what it wants to be.”
creative process. “I saw the Earth healing. Water became clean again because factories closed down. I worked with deadstock gauze silk, but I felt a need to operate even more sustainably after witnessing nature rebound,” she says.
When she returned from the trip, a friend gave her an old quilt. She looked at the quilt and could see the jacket she could make. With some scraps, she fashioned a bucket hat. People clamored on Instagram to buy both pieces, and she knew she had something. Now, she scours estate sales, thrift shops and eBay looking for treasure in the form of vintage tablecloths, handkerchiefs and, most recently, brightlycolored towels from the ’60s and ’70s.
But the most special pieces come from family members looking to memorialize their loved ones or preserve precious memories in fabric. Her eyes shine as she talks about a recent commission where she lovingly made a grandmother’s quilts into coats for her daughter and granddaughters
Above: DiMauro handstitches a dress made from handkerchiefs.
Right: The seamstress and store owner makes a variety of dresses, coats, hats, crewnecks, tank tops and more from vintage fabrics.
PEEBLES
the art of cooking
recipes. Fresh-caught fish from nearby fence conversations of neighbors. It and Marjorie Harris Carr—three
women who inspired me to see Florida’s riches for what they are.
I can relate to every one of Ms. Rawlings’s stories. The characters mirror many of my family members’ lives. She captured it all so well. Her love for food and entertaining brought the Florida table to the world. And it’s my belief that every Florida home should have a copy of Rawlings’s cookbook, “Cross Creek Cookery.”
My Florida
SUNSHINE STATE STORIES
citrus trees after they’d been zapped by a hard frost. My mother, Addie Mae Smith, would usually cook, bake or roast vegetables. Turnip greens were one of her specialties. I can’t remember a week during my childhood without a large pot of greens simmering away in her kitchen. When the cooking was complete, we would parade down the street to my grandmother’s house with dishes and pans cradled in kitchen towels for the
All of my accomplishments can be traced back to my florida table.
—ART SMITH
Homegrown
I am a sixth-generation Floridian with deep farming roots—and several uncles and cousins who ran their fair share of moonshine decades ago. My hometown of Jasper is in Hamilton County in the northern lowlands between Jacksonville and Tallahassee and south of Valdosta, Georgia. This region of Florida boasts cooking traditions as traditionally Southern as the Sunshine State ever gets.
On our farm, we had cattle and a bountiful vegetable garden. The aroma of slow-cooking pot roasts with carrots, onions and potatoes takes me right back to my youth.
When my mother’s kitchen was buzzing and packed with people, the occasion usually revolved around God: cakes, quick breads and pies for Wednesday evening church meetings and covered dishes of deviled eggs and casseroles for the fellowship hall after Sunday services.
Sunday supper culminated with my favorite dessert, a sour orange pie. We would collect the fruit from the
meal. Both of my grandmothers always prepared the protein centerpiece of beef, pork or chicken.
Local poultry, beef, sugarcane, pecans and citrus were important ingredients in my family’s recipes. Their repertoire of hearty, straightforward food influenced the family fare in my homes and restaurants in Florida and Illinois.
When we opened Chef Art Smith’s Homecomin’ Florida Kitchen & Southern Shine Bar at Disney Springs
in the summer of 2016, my Florida business partners, Guy Revelle, Mark Gibson and I focused on recreating a snapshot of my rural Florida with architectural and culinary inspiration from regional growers and ranchers.
In Tallahassee, where I went to Florida State University, I was the chef for two Florida governors: Democrat Bob Graham and Republican Jeb Bush. I loved both iconic Florida leaders and am proud to be friends with their families to this day.
During my days in the governor’s mansion, I learned the power of food in politics and life. Bring people together over food and they will listen to one another. They may not walk away best friends, but they will walk away with a renewed understanding of each other’s perspective. My favorite hashtag remains #FriedChickenTakesNoSides.
The dining table has magical powers. It is a daily communion that is both spiritual and provocative. By the time you bring out the cake—and there will be cake—shoulders have relaxed, smiles are apparent, and conversation has shifted to all we have in common.
From left: Smith's restaurant, Homecomin' Florida Kitchen & Southern Shine Bar, opened in 2016 in Disney Springs; Smith with Gayle King (left) and Oprah Winfrey (right)
My Disney Era
My Florida also exists in and around Orlando in the tourist corridor. During my college days, I won a coveted spot in the fledgling Disney College Program, an internship and incubator of sorts that allowed Walt Disney World to identify young talent in a variety of fields.
I lived on Seven Dwarfs Lane— seriously—and while they kept trying to interest me in many aspects of the industry, I found my home in the kitchens. I had no formal culinary training. But in my Florida, everything that sustains life was a skill to learn no matter your gender. Parents taught boys and girls to cook, clean, farm, build, mend—you name it.
My mother and my aunts were tough culinary instructors who made sure my brother and I knew when to harvest cabbage, carrots, okra and more from the garden. I may not have been on my way to a culinary degree at that time, but I had the fundamentals down.
During my tenure in the Disney College Program, there was a bake-off among the students, many who were attending top-notch culinary schools. This kid from Jasper, a self-taught young thing from the North Florida countryside, won that baking contest. It was with a hummingbird cake, a Southern staple of dessert sideboards. Later in life, when I cooked for Miss Winfrey—Oprah to the world—she thought I invented that cake. I told her no, that there was not a church or Junior League cookbook in the South that did not have a variation of that impossibly moist, cream-cheese frosted, three-tiered centerpiece dessert. After I baked one for her, I told her she was the one who made it famous all over again.
Chef Art Smith’s Hummingbird Cake
Serves 12
CAKE
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups ripe bananas, chopped
1 cup crushed pineapple, drained
1 cup vegetable oil
2 large eggs, beaten
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 cup (4 ounces) pecans, finely chopped
PREPARATION: Arrange racks in the center and bottom third of oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Lightly butter two 9-inch round cake pans, sprinkle evenly with flour and tap out the excess. (Or, butter the pans, line the bottoms with rounds of parchment paper and then flour the pans.) Sift the flour, sugar, baking soda, cinnamon and salt into a bowl. In a separate bowl, hand stir or whisk the bananas, pineapple, vegetable oil, eggs and vanilla extract until combined. Pour into the dry mixture and fold together with a large spatula until smooth. Do not beat. Fold in the pecans. Spread evenly between the two pans. Bake
until the cake springs back when pressed in the center, around 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the cakes onto wire racks and cool for 10 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the racks. Turn right side up and cool completely.
ICING
8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature
4 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
PREPARATION: Using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter in a large bowl on high speed until combined. On low speed, gradually beat in the sugar, then the vanilla, to make a smooth icing. Place one cake layer upside down on a serving platter. Spread with about 2/3 cup of the icing. Top with the second cake layer, right side up. Spread the remaining icing over the top and sides of the cake.
RECIPE NOTE: At chef Art Smith's Homecomin' Florida Kitchen & Southern Shine Bar at Disney Springs, the cake is prepared in three layers and served with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and a seasonal fruit gastrique on the side. In his home kitchen, chef Art often serves this two-layer version garnished with edible flowers, washed citrus leaves or cut sprigs of fruit from the garden.
6 hibiscus tea bags
6 cups boiling water
1/2 cup of raw sugar or to taste
1 sour orange or 2 lemons, juiced
Sliced citrus fruit (oranges and lemons) for garnish
PREPARATION: Steep tea in boiling water as preferred. Pull out tea bags. Stir in sugar until completely dissolved. Place ice and sliced fruit into serving glasses. Add tea, and serve.
Sunshine State Blessings
All of my accomplishments can be traced back to my Florida table. Cooking aside, the table teaches communication skills, budgeting and hospitality. Years after leaving Tallahassee, I received my formal education papers. I hold an honorary MBA degree from the Dedman College of Hospitality at Florida State and an honorary doctorate degree in culinary arts from Johnson & Wales UniversityNorth Miami.
My two James Beard Foundation medals are on display at Homecomin’
My Florida
SUNSHINE STATE STORIES
in Disney Springs. They are casually pinned into a small craft store shadow box. No fuss. No bright lights. Just something to remind guests you can achieve your dreams.
Many Disney College Program graduates go on to work for The Walt Disney Company, but I was the first to return as an “Operating Partner” with my own independent restaurant. Half of Jasper attended the pre-opening friends and family party. My mother cried, and, that evening, her reaction meant the most to me. It was a beautifully loud and boisterous night, much in the same way a Smith family reunion would unfold.
Then, on July 12, 2016, I officially opened Homecomin’ in the way my
overlook the water. And yes, greens are always on the menu as well as my mother’s chicken and dumpling soup and her fried green tomatoes.
Florida is an amazing state, and we have an agricultural diversity like no other region. Florida is Key lime pie, swamp cabbage salad and other things. But the state is also Cuban sandwiches, island jerk chicken, Asian vegetables and bold seasonings. Florida is a melting pot of many cultures, and it is important that we portray that.
Since I have been so blessed, my husband, Jesus Salgueiro, and I created Common Threads, a national nonprofit that provides children and
The table inspires conversation and innovation.
—ART SMITH
mother raised me to be: grateful and humble. On opening day at 11 a.m., I pushed open the double glass doors to the public with my servers flanking me and said, “Welcome home to Homecomin’, y’all.” This restaurant truly represents my Florida—from the reclaimed local wood on the walls and bar to the enclosed porches that
families with cooking and nutrition education to encourage healthy habits.
Over the past 30-plus years, I have cooked for royalty, heads of state and industry, superstars and the executives and artists who keep the spirit of Walt Disney alive. But what strikes me about the power of the table is that once we all sit down for a meal, titles and resumes fall by the wayside. The table inspires conversation and innovation. It is where we find our common ground.
Today, Florida remains my foundation. It influences my business decisions and my love for farm-totable cuisine. No matter where I am in the world, I am grounded by my past and those who raised me to know no limits, to keep learning and know the magic of a meal.
Above: Art Smith learned the value of a homecooked meal from his mother, Addie Mae Smith.
WADING IN:DIVE BAR
FLORIDA MUSICIANS ON THE RISE
By Steve Dollar
Miami’s Secret Sauce
Through a hazy turn of events, MUSTARD SERVICE found modern pop’s missing ingredient.
Touring extensively behind its third album, 2023’s “Variety Pack,” Mustard Service slathers a lot of spice on its energetic fusion of melodic pop, Latin American rhythms and touches of everything from surf-rock to old-school funk. The fivepiece band coined its own genre—zest pop—to describe its musical style and continues to refine its sound through constant gigging.
“The demographic is very varied, as far as like, culturally,” says Marco Rivero Ochoa, the band’s frontman and rhythm guitarist. “I will see people in Omaha, Nebraska, sing songs that we have in Spanish, and they know every word, which is crazy to me.”
We caught up with Ochoa in transit after the band had a big night headlining the fabled El Rey Theatre on Los Angeles’s Miracle Mile. He talked about the band’s inspirations, its favorite music spots and, yep, that name.
Above from top: Drummer Adam Perez, frontman Marco Rivero Ochoa, guitarist Gabriel Marinuchi, keyboardist Leo Cattani and bassist Sebastian Holmes
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I KNOW IT’S A CORNY QUESTION TO START WITH, BUT I CAN’T NOT ASK. WHAT’S A MUSTARD SERVICE?
Marco Rivero Ochoa: It’s a funny story. I think we were 19 years old, before the band had even started. We’re all South American, so we love a good barbecue. But we didn’t have any mustard. On our way over to go get some mustard for the meats, no one mentioned to us that someone had laced the fruit punch with a little bit of LSD. By the time we finished purchasing the mustard, we were super high. We got back to the house with all the mustard, somehow miraculously, and someone said, “Who’s got the mustard?” Leo, our keyboardist, opened the cap on a mustard bottle and started pouring (it) on himself, and he started saying, “I am the mustard service!” And then somehow we retained that. “You know what? We should start a band.”
THAT’S A ZANY ORIGIN STORY RIGHT THERE. SO THE BAND WAS FORMED AROUND BARBECUES ... MRO: And camaraderie, and Corona and mustard. Absolutely, it was. It was a great day.
THE BAND’S MEMBERS HAVE ROOTS IN CUBA, ARGENTINA AND URUGUAY, AMONG OTHER PLACES. HOW DO THOSE RICH CULTURAL INFLUENCES PERCOLATE?
MRO: The guys from Argentina love cumbia and love Latin-Afro rhythms. It comes out naturally in some of the music. Aside from being big fans of American music, British music, we also have the benefit of speaking Spanish and being able to appreciate South American music, music from Spain. You have reggaeton, you have cumbia, you have salsa, you have merengue, you have bachata. It’s just so many different kinds of music.
I think it’s more of a subconscious thing. I grew up on a lot of Spanish folk artists like Silvio Rodriguez or Joaquin Sabina, and they were like our Jesus Christ growing
up, especially Silvio Rodriguez. He’s a little controversial, because he’s from Cuba, and he was part of the Communist propaganda program. But this guy’s propaganda music was absolutely incredible, and I’ve been trying to write like him ever since.
“Variety Pack”
I think he’s, in the purest sense of the word, an absolute troubadour.
WHAT WAS IT LIKE INCUBATING A NEW BAND IN MIAMI?
MRO: Miami, and South Florida in general, didn’t really have much of an indie scene. It was hardcore bands, punk bands, metal bands. We would get on the end of these hardcore bills, these punk bills. There’d be a few hours of absolute crazy moshing, and then Mustard Service, the indie rock band, is going to play a few tunes to close the night. After we started picking up traction, people would come to our headlining shows and they would start moshing to indie rock, and we’re like, “Dude, this is the chillest song of all time. Why are you guys moshing?” But it was just the culture—going to the show and pushing people around a little bit and just having a little bit of fun.
WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE BAR TO PLAY?
MRO: It’s going to break my
heart to say it: Churchill’s Pub. It was absolutely legendary. That’s where we played our first show at a bar. After that place closed down, it’s almost like bands just didn’t want to come down to Miami anymore. There’s another spot called Las Rosas, which was like the baby brother of Churchill’s. Miami is lacking good, midsized venues. That’s part of the reason why the music scene has suffered a bit since Churchill’s and Las Rosas fully faded out. But I have it on good authority that the former Las Rosas is going to make a bit of a comeback, so I’m waiting on that.
RIGHT NOW, YOU’RE CALLING AS THE BAND TRAVELS FROM LOS ANGELES TO SAN FRANCISCO FOR ANOTHER GIG. DO YOU HAVE ANY ROAD RITUALS?
MRO: We do a lot of “20 Questions.” “Would You Rather” is an absolutely degenerate game, but absolutely necessary. When you’re four hours in and everybody’s eyes are bloodshot and the driver’s trying to stay awake, it’s better if there’s a tactic. One of the rituals is, if you’re very sleepy, you get cold water and pour it all over yourself, and you blast the cold AC, and you’re not falling asleep on that drive.
Know a band with Florida roots?
SCAN THE CODE AND TELL FLAMINGO!
This page: Mustard Service’s hit, “The Dominoes,” released in 2022, has more than four million streams on Spotify; Mustard Service’s “C’est La Vie” and
Fall is a wonderful time to explore West Volusia. From hiking a trail, biking a path, or checking out our famous Wings of the West to meandering unique downtowns as you enjoy artisan coffees, smoothies and award-winning local craft beers and wines. Visit soon, the good times and the holidays are just around the corner.
DeLand Fall Festival of the Arts - Nov. 23-24 | CoolCraft Christmas - Nov. 29th – Dec. 30th
CONVENIENTLY LOCATED BETWEEN ORLANDO AND DAYTONA BEACH | VISITWESTVOLUSIA.COM
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By The Editors
COOKIEBIRD
ICE
CREAM BAR
ST. AUGUSTINE
Husband-and-wife team
Mike and Kate Alfieri never lost touch with that eternal childhood astonishment— the simple, yet somehow miraculous wonder of ice cream. Specifically the classic soft-serve variety, whether dispensed with a jingle from a neighborhood-roving truck or swirled atop a sugar cone in a vintage soda shop. The couple went back to the future, launching Cookiebird Ice Cream Bar as their contemporary take on an old-fashioned ice cream parlor, renovating a historic 1930 storefront on San Marco Avenue as an artdeco cremerie. Their artisanal
(NORTH)
CHANCHO KING
JACKSONVILLE
soft-serve ice cream may be the main attraction but there’s also an enticing variety of accompaniments including waffle cones in birthday cake, orange creamsicle and matcha flavors, exciting toppings (including Oreo and Biscoff cookies!) and sauces like pistachio and marshmallow. And don’t miss their innovative milk bun: soft serve inside a warm brioche bun. cookiebird.co
THE SOCIAL SOCIETY
PONTE VEDRA BEACH
Welcome to the latest chapter in the career of fashion, design and party entrepreneur Seri Kertzner, who gained some buzz with her event-planning and styling companies, Little
Miss Party Planner and REV New York, as she executed a lively transition away from the corporate runways. Now she’s bringing her unique flair for the festive to her new home on the southern Atlantic Coast. The Social Society is the nightlife maven’s first brick-and-mortar boutique, stocked with fanciful party supplies, gifts and more—with multiple fun themes to choose from. Looking for disco ball paper plates? Lightning bolt balloons for a superhero party? A robot pinata? The Social Society has it all, and if you’re in need of inspiration, opt for a custom-made “party in a box,” curated by expert stylists to suit any occasion. thesocialsociety.com
Inspired by the flavors and traditions of Ecuador, where the chancho—pig in Spanish—reigns supreme, Chancho King first hit the city streets in 2019, when partners Chason Spencer and his wife, Maria Delia La Mota Guerra, started a successful pop-up shortly after their honeymoon. Their specialty, a roasted pork sandwich with meat marinated for 36 hours, now lends its name to their new restaurant—a diner with daytime and late-night menus and a Sunday ceviche bar. Each bite, from the signature pork sammy (dressed with lime-pickled red onions, pork crackling and more) to platters like the encocado de camaron (shrimp and coconut stew), is infused with generations of culinary magic from Guerra’s family. And never fear, there are vegetarian options as well. chanchoking.square.site
THE SALTY BUTCHER
SANTA ROSA BEACH
Inspired by the Old World traditions of Italy and France, beverage specialists and good friends Harrison Holditch and Aubrey Craig have brought the spirit of the European sandwich to the 30A beachfront with their boutique butcher shop and wine bar, located in Greenway Station. Hungry patrons can find cuts of high-quality meats and cheeses, sourced both locally and much further afield, perfect for charcuterie boards, and sandwiches made with bread from South Walton County’s Black Bear Bread Co. thesaltybutcher30a.com
Above: Stop by The Salty Butcher on 30A for prime meats, fine wines, artisan cheeses and European sandwiches.
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CHAYOTE BARRIO KITCHEN WINTER PARK
With famed Puerto Rican chef Mario Pagán at the helm (it’s his first venture stateside), Chayote Barrio Kitchen is out to introduce Winter Park residents to the concept of Nueva Mesa Latina, Spanish for New Latin Table, where traditional Hispanic flavors merge with contemporary ones. Think: Chilean sea bass with truffled yuca mousse and port foie gras; adobo lamb confit with apio gnocchi; chevre crema
their bar offerings either. Their artisanal cocktails, along with an impressive rum selection, are the perfect addition to start—or end—an evening. Salud to that! chayotewinterpark.com
AUTHENTIC BOOKS ORLANDO
Love getting swept up in a novel? Walk into fictional worlds supplied by Authentic Books, an Orlando-based company that puts a unique spin on their monthly book subscription service. Not only do readers choose the
Getaway to a tropical oasis with six unique restaurants, a rejuvenating spa, panoramic views, oceanfront pool and semi-private beach for the ultimate
Retreat to a featuring six unique restaurants, a rejuvenating spa, an oceanfront pool, and a semi-private beach—all framed by stunning views. This holiday season, elevate your getaway with festive entertainment, packages, and holidayinspired dining.
Above: Moxy St. Pete has 163 rooms, a rooftop pool, a complimentary cocktail on arrival and is one block away from Tropicana Field.
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candles to cocktail mixes, to create an immersive, athome experience for the five senses. Now, Authentic Books is bringing their concept of multisensory reading to the next level with a brick-andmortar bookstore in Orlando’s Ivanhoe Village. Once a title is selected, grab a bag and shop for three other items that capture the essence of the narrative, like themed candles or drink mixes. They also hold events inspired by popular novels, like their recent candlepouring workshop based on the series, “A Court of Thorns and Roses.” authenticbooks.com
MOXY ST. PETE ST. PETERSBURG
In the heart of St. Petersburg’s Edge District near Tropicana Field stands the neighborhood’s first lifestyle hotel, Moxy St. Pete. As soon as you enter its urban chic lobby that feels like a city loft, you’re greeted with a vibrant mural depicting the city’s tropical flora and fauna, reflecting the district’s signature art-centric vibe. The 163-room property is home to a happening lobby bar, featuring a stage for local live music and entertainment, and a coffee shop. There’s also a podcast studio, conference rooms, workspaces and the area’s only
rooftop pool. Adjacent to the top floor’s swimming hole is the just-opened Sparrow Rooftop, a retro-inspired bar and lounge that serves up unrivaled, panoramic views of downtown St. Petersburg, along with sushi, steak, spring rolls and seafood bites that pair perfectly with their creative sips. mariott.com
OYSTER SHOOTERS RAW BAR & GRILL COCOA
The world is your oyster at this casual seafood spot in Cocoa. While they have all the coastal favorites—from conch fritters to grouper tacos—the small but mighty oyster is what makes
this place the real deal. With an extensive raw bar menu, it’s the spot if you’re craving something shucked and salty. The different varietals are served with color-coded toothpicks, allowing you to easily track what you’re sampling. If you want to wash the mollusks down with something other than cocktail sauce, there’s also plenty to drink. With creative cocktails, multiple types of oyster shooters and other shots, and a seafood Bloody Mary that includes jumbo shrimp, a snow crab leg, bacon and more, you won’t leave this Central Florida eatery hungry. oystershootersrawbar.com
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THE FEDERAL FORT LAUDERDALE
What do you get when you drop a world-class dining venue in the middle of a professional sports complex?
The Federal, a vibrant hot spot that bills itself as more than just a restaurant. Sure, you can find contemporary American cuisine with touches of global comfort food at The Federal, but you’ll also find a dynamic upscale atmosphere that overlooks two ice rinks within the newly built Baptist Health IcePlex (where the Stanley Cup champion Florida Panthers practice) and easy access to the nearby pickleball courts. Created by the same masterminds as some of Fort Lauderdale’s most innovative entertainment venues, like Rhythm + Vine and The Wilder, The Fed, as it’s affectionately known, allows guests to indulge in a sports-adjacent atmosphere, no matter what kind of fan they are. thefederalftl.com
LA MÀRTOLA
MIAMI
One of Miami’s most exciting new neighborhoods is getting a taste of the European riviera with the recent opening of La Màrtola, an indoor-outdoor restaurant that’s an ode to coastal cuisine. Located in the Buena Vista neighborhood of Miami, La Màrtola’s signature is its cooking process—mostly through a wood-fired grill or pizza oven. Speaking of pizza, the restaurant prepares a 36-hour dough with a flour blend sourced from Italy, resulting in Neapolitan-style pies that are said to embody “La Dolce Vita,” (Italian for The Good Life). The light and airy space, accented with wood furnishings and minimalist
decor and design, evokes modern coastal vibes, making a lunch or dinner date here an easy, unfussy proposition. lamartola.com
HOUSE OF PERNA
DELRAY BEACH
A “Project Runway” alum is making Florida even more fashionable this fall with the opening of her brand-new atelier. Fashion designer Amanda Perna, a two-time contestant on the reality TV fashion competition, has opened her first flagship store in Delray Beach. The House of Perna atelier features two unique spaces: The front of the store houses the retail center with House of Pernadesigned ready-to-wear
clothing, accessories and gifts, and the rear is a fully functioning design studio. This high-minded concept is an extension of Perna’s mission to give women further validation to wear pieces that inspire happiness and vibrancy. Says Perna, “I truly believe clothes have the power to boost moods and create conversations between strangers who may actually end up becoming friends.” thehouseofperna.com
BAKERY AT GRAPPINO NAPLES
European charm makes another landing in Southwest Florida. Bakery at Grappino, a new cafe that speaks to the Italian roots of its co-owner,
brings authentic Mediterranean cuisine to the city’s downtown. Made-in-house Italian breads, pastries and desserts are paired with authentic cold cuts and espresso to give diners a feel of chef and owner Fabrizio Aielli’s Italian heritage, which includes working in kitchens since he was 14 years old and becoming the executive chef of the famous Taverna La Fenice in Venice. The artisan bakery complements Aielli’s portfolio of Naplesbased restaurants that he co-founded with his wife, Ingrid. In the mood for pasta? The bakery has you covered with its freshly made takehome pastas and a variety of homemade sauces. aielligroup.com
Above: La Màrtola’s lobster cobb salad, which includes baby gem lettuce, bacon, eggs, avocado, cherry tomatoes and white cheddar.
coastline Our is also monumental
With so many serene escapes and larger-than-life masterpieces to admire in The Palm Beaches, exploring all 47 miles of our breathtaking beaches might have to wait.
— Unfiltered Fodder —
Capital Dame
By Diane Roberts
FAMILY TRADITIONS PRESERVED
Diane Roberts shares childhood memories, the secret to preserving and her family’s recipe for dewberry jelly.
MY MOTHER HAD MANY SKILLS.
She could change a tire, throw a lump of clay on a wheel and turn it into a bowl, rewire a lamp and behead any cottonmouth dumb enough to slither across her path. She kept a machete in her van for just such eventualities, which, in North Florida, are fairly common. Mama could also preserve,
pickle or render into jam just about anything that could, however loosely, be defined as “food.” Not solely the standard cucumbers, strawberries, blueberries and squash, but rose petals, basil leaves, bourbon, bacon and stinging nettles. She made more kinds than I could keep up with, stacking them on a special shelf in the kitchen. When the morning sun hit just right,
the jars threw off reds, purples, golds and greens like a stained glass window. While making jelly, my mother’s kitchen looked like the mad scientist’s lab in an old movie: boiling cauldrons, Pyrex beakers and a sinister-looking antique potato masher used to crush leaves and flowers. She liked to experiment. One year it was kudzu jelly.
The reactions were decidedly mixed: Some people couldn’t get over the very idea of those choking, crawling vines producing anything edible, while others pronounced it sublime, especially when spread on a water cracker with brie.
These days, weird jams and jellies have become fashionable, showing up on the menus of nouvelle Southern restaurants that make down-home feel uptown. Mama, however, was not trying to make a point. For her, preserving was practical—except when it was sheer aggression. A friend of ours who loved absurdly spicy food informed my mother the habanero pepper jelly she’d made for him was good, but not, he said, “hot enough to make me cry.” She took that as a challenge and set to work on a recipe with more than double the recommended amount of habanero peppers and some Carolina Reaper chili flakes thrown in. It was the color of a Sarasota sunset: damn near DayGlo orange. Mama cooked it wearing
Capital Dame
UNFILTERED FODDER
When I was little, I’d sit and eat pound cake while watching her and my grandmother grind bell peppers, chop sand pears or strain elderberry juice through three layers of cheesecloth. They stirred with long wooden spoons as they silently counted, heads bobbing a little. Most jellies
that might render that necessary. I became ashamed of my stereotypical egghead uselessness. By God, I could learn to jam. And jelly. And preserve. I could learn my mother’s occult secrets. “OK,” I said. “Give me a lesson.”
Despite what Big Pectin wants you to believe, making jams and jellies is not easy
My first attempt at blueberry jam was a disaster.
and turmeric. My mother said, “People don’t know how to do things. You don’t know how to do things.” It was true. I could not change a tire or rewire a lamp. If pressed, I might manage killing a snake, though I’d prefer to avoid any situation
Despite what Big Pectin wants you to believe, making jams and jellies is not easy. My first attempt at blueberry jam was a disaster. It would not set. When that happens, you have to cure it by dumping the syrupy non-jam back into a pan, adding more sugar and Sure-Jell. It usually works, but not always. Mama figured I should go for something easier: fig preserves. “The cat can make fig preserves,” she said. Step one: Go out back to the fig tree, and pick about 5 pounds of ripe (but not mushy) Brown Turkey figs. Make sure you’ve applied Off! Deep Woods insect repellent to every inch of your body to slow down the plate-sized mosquitoes determined to suck your blood. Step two: Wash and de-stem the figs, put them in the largest heavy-bottomed pot you own with the juice of two lemons and five pounds of sugar. Step three: Bring the mixture to a low boil and panic. Mama had disappeared somewhere outside and failed
She finally reappeared carrying a basket of okra destined for pickling. Seeing me trying to find the index card with the recipe, she rolled her eyes and said you simply keep stirring until the figs “feel right.” If you don’t stir for long enough, they don’t turn that silky sweet mahogany brown color. If you stir for too long, they’ll cool into a mess
My mother’s recipes are inscribed on 3-by-5 index cards. In code. The one for mayhaw jelly says, “Smith Crk nr Slough pick yellow bucket. Simmer 1-1.5 cups H2O. Strain. 4 cups, 6 sugar, SuJ, 1 min. Pink.” Translated, this means drive down to the family swamp in Wakulla County
(seriously, we own Florida swampland) and pick berries by the slough—mayhaw trees prefer watery soil. Use the yellow bucket that holds 3 to 4 pounds of berries, which, once cooked with a cup or so of water and then strained, yields 4 cups of juice. Add a box of Sure-Jell and bring the mixture to a rolling boil for a minute. Not sure why my mother felt the need to note that mayhaw jelly is pink. Many of her recipes give instructions on where to get the thing you mean to preserve. My favorite dates from the early 1970s and starts like this: “Dewberries—best north pasture lock up pony.” Behind our house was a field home to rabbits and small birds with a tangle of vines that grew along about 40 feet of fence, covered in white blossoms in March and fat, dark berries in April. Mama’s note reminds her to put Ricky, the ineffably hostile Welsh pony, in the barn. His hobby was
biting people on the back of the neck. In case you’ve never encountered dewberries, they’re an undomesticated cousin of the blackberry, sweeter, richer, wildertasting and native to North America. The most common variety in the South is rubus trivialis, and it grows damn near everywhere. Blackberries—available in stores and at farmers markets—are fine, but they are not dewberries. You have to work for dewberries. They’re a bit shy, hiding under leaves. Pull them gently off the vine, one by one, and try not to let your hands be cut to ribbons by the prickles. They don’t all ripen at once, of course, so you have to pick day after day after day. Don’t pick any that have red showing. Those are still sour. But once you get a decent-sized haul, you’re ready to make the best and most beautiful jelly—a jelly that tastes like spring sun. My mother didn’t give
away her dewberry jelly. It was reserved for family, for Christmas breakfast, Easter brunch or favored house guests.
I made a successful batch of dewberry jelly in June. It was dark purple and sweet but not so much as to overcome the scent of the field and the rain in the fruit. Sometimes I just eat a spoonful of it and taste my mother’s love of creation, the care she put into food. I taste my childhood. Here’s the recipe, rendered, more or less, into standard English. Cherish it.
Betty Roberts’s Dewberry Jelly
Makes 6 to 7 J ars
3 3/4 cups dewberry juice
4 1/2 cups sugar
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
8 tablespoons Sure-Jell
PREPARATION: Cook dewberries in just enough water to cover them until the juice is released. Strain through cheesecloth. Be careful when you squish them—the berries can stain your hands purple. Take juice and mix in sugar and fresh lemon juice. Cook on medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil and keep on high heat for one minute. Stir in Sure-Jell. Remove from heat, and let cool for one minute. Skim off the foam that settles on top. Pour into jars, tighten the lids and then put in a boiling water bath for eight minutes. Remove and don’t touch the jars for 24 hours. Disturbing them could affect the setting process. And you don’t want to do that.
Diane Roberts is an eighthgeneration Floridian, educated at Florida State University and Oxford University. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian and the Tampa Bay Times. She has also authored four books, including “Dream State,” a historical memoir of Florida.
Above: Roberts learned the art of preserving from her mother, who experimented with odd fruits, vegetables and even vines to make creations like kudzu jelly and habanero pepper jelly.
THE HOTTEST RESERVATION IN FLORIDA IS on Farm
rShowcasing the path from seed to soil to plate, these dining experiences connect people with the provenance of their food.
By CARRIE HONAKER
ON
of Noah Shitama and Melissa Muller. Strains of live jazz, the smell of charred oyster mushrooms and wood-fired pork loin filled the air as 75 guests made their way to the communal din ing table, draped in white linen. Pale peach Gerbera daisies plucked from the gardens grace the table nestled in a stretch of ancient trees. Local beers, kombucha and coffee flowed along with thoughtfully curated wines. Shitama led guests around the farm, talking about how golden beets, ginger root and other produce grows, how the Jersey cows and chickens are raised, and what modern farm life means.
Every spring and fall for the past 14 years, the agri-couple have opened the farm to the public for ticketed culinary expe riences, partnering with local chefs like Clay Conley, owner of Palm Beach’s Buccan, Imoto and Grato; Phil Bailey-Anderson of Afternoon restaurant; and Charlie Keller of Spurrier’s Gridiron Grille to create a feast featuring their freshest crops. It’s an epicurean showcase rooted in community building and, maybe more importantly, sustainable farming.
“We have more and more people moving to Florida every day, and farmland gets eaten up in the process because it’s not the best use in the current valuation scheme,” Shitama said. “It’s hard for people to afford to even keep land in farming because pressures come to bear where they need to sell for development. But I think the one step farms can take is imple menting agritourism.”
Shitama grew up in Gainesville, right around the corner from where his farm is now. He left to study religion at Emory University but became disenchanted with his program’s abstract direction. His father, a builder, instilled a love of the practical and concrete. Back in Florida, he followed his father’s path into building and also started gardening in his yard with his two young kids during his time off, which led him to farmers mar kets and volunteering at local farms.
When Shitama left the build ing trade and turned the ground at his first farm in Alachua in 2009, about 12 swallow-tailed kites cir cled overhead. He took it as a sign. That experience, combined with the inspiration from his farming mentor,
Patrick Ross, who owned Sandhill Farm at the time (named for another iconic native Florida bird), inspired his farm’s name, Swallowtail Farm.
“I had two small children at the time and was feeling like our food choices weren’t superb,” Shitama said. “We started as a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farm, practicing regenerative agriculture before it was vogue. I wanted to reconnect people with their food.”
He and Muller happened onto the land of his current homestead on a bike ride one afternoon while exploring some trails outside Gainesville. A long, skinny driveway lined with live oak trees drew them into the lollipop-shaped property. Smitten, they decided this would be their farm’s new home.
“We feel humbled by the privilege of stewarding this extraordinary place, where sandhill cranes, white-tailed deer, foxes, fox squirrels, coyotes, snakes of every stripe, hawks, eagles, kites, gopher tortoises, turtles and an occasional alligator all coexist with the planted fields, cows, chickens, pigs, sheep, cats, dogs and humans here,” Shitama said.
Coming soon are glamping tents for farm stays, weddings and other events highlighting the beauty of bucolic North Florida.
FINDING HOME ON AN URBAN FARM
Early on most Saturdays afternoons, starting in September, the scent of moqueca de peixe (Brazilian fish stew) and pao
From Rice to Riches at Congaree and Penn
In 2014 , a patch of dirt brimming with weeds located about a 30-minute drive from downtown Jacksonville transformed into four acres of rice paddies under Scott and Lindsay Meyer’s care. Chefs around the area started requesting their custom-milled rice and 10 years later, Congaree and Penn is a thriving 330-acre farm of orchards and animals, and a slate of dining options including a chef’s tasting dinner set among their grapevines.
Lindsay grew up on a farm in New Mexico and Scott, a Jacksonville native, spent his childhood among his father’s orchards. Neither thought agriculture was their path, but when Scott’s father offered them the clay-dense land, all of a sudden they had a farm with chickens, guinea fowl, blackberry bushes and rows of muscadine grapes.
Following their success with rice, the couple waded into cider and started food service. “It was rudimentary at first, but then we started pairing with chefs from around the country who
used our rice in their restaurants for ticketed farmers tables,” Lindsay said.
The culinary concept evolved into an on-site restaurant that offers a limited counter service menu in the summer, and in 2020, at the height of the pandemic, they began including fine dining options and the Chef’s Tasting.
But you can’t visit Congaree and Penn without also soaking up all the farm life. There are wagon rides, animal feedings, fruit picking, a winding creek to stroll alongside and a cornucopia of vegetables to view with a farm pass.
“There’s a growing disconnect between people and their food. People don’t understand what goes into growing and raising food, and why it’s expensive,” Lindsay said. “The world keeps getting bigger and a little bit more tumultuous, but something is grounding to being outside and understanding this is where your food comes from.”
For more details or to make a dining reservation, visit: congareeandpenn.com.
Congaree and Penn
LOCATION: Jacksonville
PRICE: $150 per person congareeandpenn.com
Feal the Rancho
LOCATION: Homestead
PRICE: $250 per person fealhospitality.com
Regina’s Farm
LOCATION: Fort Lauderdale
PRICE: $65 per person reginasfarm.com
Swank Specialty Produce
LOCATION: Loxahatchee
PRICE: $185 per person swankspecialtyproduce.com
Swallowtail Farm
LOCATION: Gainesville
PRICE: $200 per person swallowtailcsa.com
de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread) tempt a long line of hungry diners waiting for a coveted seat at the table on Regina’s Farm in Fort Lauderdale, a converted backyard tucked away from the bustling city and beach. Guests are greeted by swags of bis tro lights, colorful Brazilian banners, a fire pit for roasting marshmallows and enough tables for 150 people. Colored wristbands are distributed to help the flow of courses.
The evening always begins with soup, six or seven varieties chock-full of oxtail, corn, chicken, grits and more. It is all you can eat (and take home). Next up are salads, plantains, collard greens, rice, feijoada (Brazilian black bean stew), pinto beans, sausage, eggs and yucca. Then comes the chicken pie, ribs, fish, oxtail, beef and vegetarian options like rice and beans with yucca. After dinner, marshmallows roast over the fire pit and Brazilian coffee made with sugarcane from a Homestead farmer fills mugs.
When Regina Rodrigues landed in Florida, she longed for her Brazilian home state, Minas Gerais. She started Regina’s Farm as an oasis, shaded by palm trees and a tall fence, with chickens pecking the ground, wild green onions sprouting in her garden and a Brazilian hammock swinging in a tree. Minas Gerais, known for its gastronomy, inspires all of her dishes.
“I thought, if I could not go back, I could bring Brazil to me.
Happiness cannot depend on where we live. I asked my husband to build a wood stove in our backyard, a chicken coop and everything I dreamt about, like tables, swing sets, a little train,” Rodrigues said.
She began entertaining friends from church with her cooking. In 2006, the community of Brazilians in Florida found her, flooding her with requests to join and get a taste of home. In 2013, she established Regina’s Farm as a nonprofit that funds causes such as stopping gun violence in schools, building artificial reefs and funding college scholarships through a portion of her dinner sales.
“It gives us great joy to see our compatriots easing the longing for Brazil and also to see Americans and people from all over the world falling in love with Brazil without even needing to travel,” Rodrigues said.
Dinners fill up fast and the secret to getting a reservation is her son Matthew. He mans the text stream for her. Yes, you must text him to get a table: no web reservations, no phone calls, no reservation app.
“Make friends with Matthew,” Rodrigues said. “Ask him a question, talk to him about skydiving or dance. If you’re a friend of Matthew, it’s going to be easy for you to come.”
Brazilian music fills the air as people relax in hammocks, children ride the makeshift choo-choo train and friendships are formed over a shared meal. “Some people cry. Some people say I can’t believe I have this smell, this food. They bring the kids to see the wood stove like the one their mom cooks over in Brazil, and they’re so happy. I’m representing the culture,” Rodrigues said.
THE MARKET GROWS
In 1982, Epcot debuted The Land exhibit. Darrin Swank, a then 15-year-old who grew up roasting freshly shucked corn and riding wagons filled with hay on his family’s farm in Pennsylvania, glided on a boat through the Disney greenhouse filled with hydroponic lettuce, tomatoes, lemons and other food grown with just water and nutrients, but no soil. Darrin
This spread, clockwise: Regina Rodrigues of Regina’s Farm, which specializes in Brazilian food and is located in the heart of Fort Lauderdale; the cafe at Congaree and Penn is housed in an old airplane hanger in Jacksonville; a charcuterie board from Congaree and Penn
knew in his bones it was the future of farming.
Jodi and Darrin Swank sowed their first seeds at Swank Specialty Produce in 2001 in Loxahatchee, about 17 miles from West Palm Beach, growing pesticide-free, hydroponic produce just like Darrin saw decades ago on that family trip to Orlando.
When the first crops came in, Jodi sent letters to about 15 local chefs in Palm Beach County offering to sell them their lettuce. She received one response—Leonardo Cuomo, the chef at Buonasera Ristorante visited the farm, saw their produce and became their first customer.
Soon she started knocking on the back doors of Delray Beach restaurants, armed with a box of fresh-picked greens to show to the chefs. Café Boulud signed on, and sales exploded as word got out to chefs around Palm Beach County. She expanded and began to attend the West Palm Beach farmers markets, toting her lettuce, arugula and basil to sell every Saturday. The farm’s following grew so much Darrin decided to try his hand at other seeds. They diversified from three products to 30 in one year.
Chef Dean Max, fabled mentor to chefs Paula DaSilva, Adrienne Grenier, Jeremy Ford and more, visited the farm and became their first guest chef. That relationship led to him cooking lunch on the farm.
At that first lunch, platters of smoked fish dip with farm-harvested radishes, broccoli florets and sweet baby carrots for
This page: Grilled chicken from a dinner at Swallowtail Farm; at Congaree and Penn, diners can expect local ingredients like Mayport shrimp.
Opposite: Guests gather at long tables for dinner on Swallowtail Farm; Swallowtail Farm owners Noah Shitama and Melissa Muller produce everything from eggs to produce while raising cows, pigs, chickens and more.
dipping circulated among the guests. Deviled eggs with crispy shallots bobbed around the communal tables set up on the haystrewn ground. Next came bowls of chilled curry cauliflower soup with spicy peel-and-eat royal red shrimp on the side along with salad dishes overflowing with those famous Swank greens. And for the finale, fried fish with all the fixings, grilled pork loin with kumquat chutney and mache greens landed at the tables.
“We had absolutely no tent, nothing. It was a gorgeous day in January 2012. The sky was as blue as could be, and we had 65 guests,” Jodi said.
Lunch led to dinner, and the Swanks invited charities to get involved as a fundraiser. They brought in popular mixologists, and more guest chefs followed. Today, the farm grows over 350 varieties of food, and they challenge the guest chefs to incorporate the bounty into their menu.
“We are the growers, but we support other small businesses that can help guests learn about what’s in the local community and the local support that is so desperately needed,” Jodi said.
Then the pandemic hit and the Swanks had two shade houses full of lettuce, greens, micros and vegetables. Like other Florida farmers, they started offering a drive-thru farm share. As sales ebbed, they started a farmers market and invited 10 other essential vendors. The line went from the barn to the parking lot as they monitored the crowd level of the
MAVEN PHOTO AND FILM, STEFANIE KEELER, ELI MEYERS STUDIO
Firing Up the Senses at Feal the Rancho
Chef Niven Patel and partner Mohamed “Mo”
Alkassar started a farm in Homestead to cultivate fruits, vegetables and herbs to supply their restaurants Ghee Indian Kitchen, NiMo, Erba and newly opened Paya. They wanted their staff to understand the work and love it takes to grow the produce they serve daily. Their venture, Feal the Rancho, brings guests to the farm where they harvest some of the produce prepared for the evening’s tasting menu.
It started with a cozy dinner for eight cooked in a wood oven in 2022. That led to an event for about 35 people where a storm rolled in, drenching everybody including Patel who was working under a rickety plastic cover and braving the rain every time he plated. Even soaking wet, diners showered Alkassar and Patel with praise for the food and the community they brought together. That wet evening catalyzed Feal the Rancho.
“We invested in a permanent awning, manufactured a cool wooden bar, and
it grew from 35 to 60 to 70, and now we’re at 100,” Alkassar added.
Starting in November, Patel and Alkassar will hold one monthly dinner through April. It starts with a welcome cocktail incorporating seasonal farm ingredients like star fruit and holy basil. Wood-fired pizza piled high with freshly picked squash blossoms are passed around the crowd. Alkassar, Patel and their farmer lead the guests through the rows of romano beans, Everglades tomatoes, bronze fennel and more, and teach them about what they’re growing and what’s in season.
“(During) one of my favorite (dinners), a guest harvested carrots and just stood there smelling them. People are so used to supermarket carrots that they don’t realize they can almost taste a fresh-from-the-ground carrot just by scent,” Alkassar said. “It was the first time I noticed how much the experience touched people. They harvested carrots, we cleaned them up and they became part of the menu.”
Following the tour, everyone sits down to a family-style farm feast filled with
market, ensuring it stayed at the allowed 35 people. Post-pandemic, as people returned to grocery stores, Jodi leaned on her 19 years of experience at West Palm Beach farmers markets and a lengthy rolodex of vendors to go all-in on their market.
Each year the markets shut down June through September when the Florida heat rages, and Jodi looks for new culinary vendors while plotting the schedule of Swank Table Family-Style Dinners. She limits her selection to artisan food and drink producers. No jewelry, crafts or art. Come fall, 30 or so vendors, some who have been at their market since the beginning, are ready for business.
Farming is Hard Work. We do everything on this farm by hand.
instructors teach the art of weaving, scooting and brushing on the temporary dance floor. Farm boxes full of great gifts for the holidays are available for purchase and a menu of wood-fired and house-cured meats, crisp watermelon radishes, red-veined sorrel and whatever else is popping at the farm, fuels the shindig. Also on the list for this season is a Día de los Muertos celebration of life dinner and an Alice Waters tribute dinner celebrating her iconic Edible Schoolyard project and the international Slow Food Movement.
—JODI SWANK
“I am not trying to expand it to 100 vendors. All I want is for you to come to the farm, shop the four or five aisles that we have, and go home with local food that will last you the week,” Jodi said.
During the market, local bands play on the stage, excited children feed the sheep and cows, and visitors amble through the field where bags of fresh crops grow hydroponically, just like Darrin saw on his trip to Epcot in 1982.
“Farming is hard work. We do everything on this farm by hand. We have one tractor and workers that have been with us for a very long time,” Jodi said. “It is expensive to grow food sustainably, but I love partnering with charities for our farm dinners—I can help a battered woman, a child, an animal, a library. I know what we are doing will help at least one person.”
Starting in November, Swank Specialty Produce lights up with a 10-dinner series, including a Farmers Market Hoe Down. Bales of hay dot the space and country singers Jordan Oaks and Tommy Lynn supply the tunes. Dance
THE FUTURE ON THE FARM
The fear Shitama has about the available land getting gobbled up is evident along U.S. Route 441 in Palm Beach County, where big farms have disappeared to make room for development. But small farms, like Swallowtail Farm, Swank Specialty Produce and Regina’s Farm, that are engaging in agritourism may be protected through a state statute which allows them to continue growing food for their local communities.
“When you give people food that you grow and they keep coming back for more, that’s something really personal. They believe in us, they trust us—they allow our food into their home, their bodies and their kids,” Jodi said.
This page: Guests can tour the property at Swank Specialty Produce in Loxahatchee as part of the dining experience.
Opposite: Chef Nivan Patel and his partner Mohamed “Mo” Alkassar started a farm in Homestead to support their restaurants, but it turned into a special venue all its own; octopus escabeche from Feal the Rancho
By CRAIG PITTMAN
RECORDing HISTORY
INSIDE THE VATICAN OF RECORDING STUDIOS
Illustration by JULES OZAETA
This spread: Berry Oakley, Tom Dowd and Dickey Betts during the The Allman Brothers Band “Eat A Peach” recording session at Criteria Studios in Miami
You’ve probably never heard of Criteria Recording Studios in North Miami. Most people haven’t.
It does no advertising. It sits on a nondescript section of highway where it’s easy to overlook. In a part of Florida that’s frequently full of glittering celebrities, its staff prefers to fade into the background. But if you’ve ever turned on a radio, you’ve heard some of Criteria’s handiwork.
Hits by everyone from James Brown to Missy Elliott were cut at Criteria. It helped produce some of the most famous albums in music history, including “Rumours” by Fleetwood Mac, “Young, Gifted and Black” by Aretha Franklin and “Layla and Other Assorted Love Songs” by Derek and the Dominos. The Eagles named their most well-known album “Hotel California,” but they recorded it in Florida at Criteria.
In other words, these musical creations are as much of a product of the Sunshine State as a box of Indian River citrus, a Weeki Wachee Springs State Park mermaid show or a Jimmy Buffett album (take a guess where “Margaritaville” was cut).
Criteria “put Miami on the map as far as the rock world was concerned,” said Alberto de la Portilla, a music historian who writes the Long Play Miami blog.
There are hundreds of stories about the parade of talent that’s passed through Criteria. Perhaps the best one to explain what a central role it has played in the history of pop, rock, soul and funk is the one about legendary producer Tom Dowd. Dowd needed just 30 minutes at Criteria for remixing, but he couldn’t get an appointment.
“They told me all the studios were taken, 24 hours a day,” Dowd recalled. “So I drove there, figuring I could sneak in and do my half-hour edit.
lightning struck there once, so everybody wanted to be there in case it struck again.
—Grant Gravitt Jr.
I get into the parking lot, and here’s
Bob Seger, the Bee Gees and Crosby, Stills & Nash— the three groups that have the studio locked out 24 hours a day—and they’re shooting baskets.”
One music industry veteran referred to Criteria as “the Vatican of recording studios” because it’s holy ground. If that’s true, the high priest is Trevor Fletcher, its current vice president. He’s its historian, and you could say he lived much of it.
“My mother started answering the phones here in 1969,” Fletcher said (she later became general manager). “I was a little kid. I grew up running around in here.”
His childhood memories are different from your typical playground encounters. At one point he walked in on Bob Marley smoking a joint that looked as big as Fletcher’s leg.
It’s appropriate that Criteria once functioned as Fletcher’s day care center, because it started out as a way for one parent to keep his son entertained.
laying down the track
Mack Emerman loved jazz. At Duke University, he played trumpet for the Duke Ambassadors, a big band. After serving in the Navy during World War II, he wound up in Miami, where his father ran a candy company.
During the day Emerman made deliveries of saltwater taffy
Above: A control room at Criteria Recording Studios in North Miami, where scores of legendary artists have cut some of their most iconic albums.
Right:
Eric Clapton recorded his album “461 Ocean Boulevard” at Criteria Recording Studios.
for his dad. Then at night, he’d use the same station wagon to haul a couple of Telefunken microphones and a Concertone tape machine to different jazz clubs in the area to record the local bands.
He even set up a studio in his garage, running cables into the family living room. His talent, it turned out, wasn’t for playing music but recording it.
“I had hoped to be a good trumpet player, but I was never good enough,” Emerman told the Miami Herald in 1998. “I got very interested in the recording industry. That became a hobby, and the hobby became a business.”
By 1958, his father was ready for Emerman to stop bringing his musician friends over to the house to play. He loaned him the money to buy and open his own studio near WTVJ-TV.
The new studio owner benefited from an early meeting with a Fort Lauderdale high fidelity expert named Jeep Harned, who ran a small company known as Music Center Incorporated. A mutual friend of both men played Harned a record Emerman
“The studio had all custom-built equipment, and obviously Mack was having some problems with some of it,” Harned said, recalling their first meeting. He said he “loaded all my test equipment into my car, and we went down to Criteria. Mack’s new studio was very pretty,” but some equipment was causing
The pair had a long talk, and Emerman “made the decision to rebuild all the electronics in his control room … After about a year, we had rebuilt almost everything at the studio—including
The experience helped Harned create the audio powerhouse known as MCI Inc. (eventually bought out by Sony). Meanwhile, he said, “Mack and Criteria got a reputation for getting a really solid low end from the equipment that I had
A Miami Herald columnist wrote about the new studio venture and offered this opinion: “I don’t think Emerman is going to get rich. But he deserves praise for offering the young musicians in the area a chance at a wider audience. I’ve heard many a musician complain that Miami is one of the toughest towns for a jazz musician.”
Then the man they called “The Great
Jackie Gleason grew up in the tough-luck streets of New York, where he discovered he had a talent for comedy. He started out as an insult comic (“Is that your head, sir? Or are you diapering
a baby?” he once asked a movie executive with a receding hairline). Then he developed a series of funny characters for sketches that made him a wildly popular television star.
Gleason loved to play golf. When he found out he could play nearly year-round in Florida, he moved there in 1964, building a home at Inverrary Country Club in Lauderhill. And he brought along his hit variety show, “The Jackie Gleason Show,” which usually featured him playing blustery bus driver Ralph Kramden in “The Honeymooners.”
Gleason had his own orchestra, so they needed a place to record music for the show, which ran through 1970.
“They were doing the music for the show’s soundtrack,” Fletcher explained. “[They] needed music for the segues between scenes, and there were virtually no other recording studios here, so they came to Criteria.”
That led to other well-known musicians deciding to use Criteria, too—Duke Ellington and Ahmad Jamal to name
two. They were impressed with Emerman’s attention to the technical side of recording music because he invested in top-of-the-line equipment.
But most of Criteria’s business involved taping local a dvertising jingles and the University of Miami band—not exactly the stuff of legends.
That was until the Godfather of Soul came calling with a musical emergency.
A Hail mary
In 1965, James Brown was on tour at a stop in Miami. And he needed help.
Brown had already recorded what would become his first huge hit, “I Got You (I Feel Good).” But there was a problem.
“There was some sort of contractual snafu,” Fletcher said.
called Tel-Air that produced a broad range of shows and documentary films.
Emerman told him his problem: None of the banks wanted to lend him the cash he needed so desperately. Fortunately, Gravitt was on a bank board, said his son Grant Gravitt Jr.
“My dad could get the loan for Mack to build more of his studio,” Gravitt Jr. said. In exchange, Tel-Air could use one of the studios they helped build whenever needed. Meanwhile, young Gravitt Jr. started hanging out in Criteria’s game room after school.
that was also part of the sound— the pizza box on top of the piano.
—Howard Albert
According to Songfacts.com, Brown recorded the number in September 1964 and lease it, along with some of his other songs, to Smash Records. Smash planned to release it as a single, and Brown had been performing the song while on tour.
But Brown’s usual record label, King Records, sued to block the release. In October 1964, a judge ruled that Smash Records would be allowed to issue only instrumental recordings by Brown—no vocals.
That’s why Brown needed Criteria, Fletcher said: “They needed to rerecord it.”
The second version turned out to be much better. “The original 1964 version of this so had no guitar,” says Song facts.com. “When Brown redid it in 1965, he made his screams more pronounced and added some instrumenta tion,” including more sax by Maceo Parker.
When it was released by King Records, the rerecorded number shot to the top of the R&B charts and stayed there for six weeks. It also went to No. 3 on the Hot 100.
It became Criteria’s first gold record. There would be another 240 or so more to follow.
Brown’s blockbuster brought more artists to Criteria.
“The best advertisement for a studio is a hit record,” Fletcher said. With this new demand, though, Emerman needed money to expand. In 1966, he met with a Miami TV and film producer named Grant Gravitt Sr. to ask for a favor. Gravitt had started working at WTVJ the day it opened, ran the audio for Gleason’s shows and the second performance of the Beatles on the Ed Sullivan Show. He’d created a company
Below: Aretha
“I’d ride my bike over and play pinball for an hour or so,” he said. “It was a cool place.”
Two giants of the music industry soon discovered that, too: Dowd and Jerry Wexler of Atlantic Records. They loved fishing off the South Florida coast. Wexler even bought a home in Miami. For them, Criteria was a godsend—a way to do their business in the place where they liked to play.
Left: Criteria has six recording studios, each with their own private entrance; Southern rocker Gregg Allman and the other members of The Allman Brothers Band recorded “Idlewild South” and “Eat a Peach” at the famed Miami recording studio.
Franklin’s Grammy awardwinning hit “Don’t Play That Song (You Lied)” was recorded at Criteria.
“It was a bit of a challenge because Aretha was playing the grand piano live with the band, as well as singing the song live with the band,” Criteria recording engineer Ron Albert told a trade magazine called Mix years later. “So it was our job to get as much separation and sound quality as possible, because all of her vocals were keepers. She may have overdubbed a line here and there, but Aretha Franklin never sang a bad note in her life.”
Part of the sound quality came from something you wouldn’t expect—something from a nearby Italian restaurant.
“We’d close the lid on the piano and cover it with moving quilts, and close-mic the piano,” Albert’s brother Howard, also a Criteria recording engineer, told Mix. “And we always got pizza from Marcella’s. That was also part of the piano sound— the pizza box on top of the piano.”
That song hit No. 1 on the R&B charts and earned Franklin a 1971 Best Female R&B Grammy. She recorded the rest of her album “Spirit in the Dark” at Criteria, including the title tune, then returned to record more hits there, including “Spanish Harlem.” Her landmark LP, “Young, Gifted and Black,” recorded at Criteria and produced two more major hits with the ethereal “Day Dreaming” and funky “Rock Steady.”
Dr. John, renowned for his New Orleans-flavored style, played keyboards on some of those sessions. He then used Criteria to record his own biggest selling album, “In the Right Place,” which featured the hits “Right Place, Wrong Time” and “Such a Night.”
Dowd also made sure to bring to Criteria a pair of Florida’s own musical stars—Duane and Gregg Allman of Daytona Beach. The Allman Brothers Band recorded “Idlewild South” and “Eat a Peach” there. Then Duane wound up playing with an artist some people called God.
461 Ocean Boulevard
Eric Clapton first made a name for himself in the ’60s as a dazzling guitarist for the Yardbirds, John Mayall’s Bluesbreakers, Cream and Blind Faith. Fans wrote on walls in London “Clapton Is God.”
Then in 1970 he put together a new group, one where he’d be doing more than showing off his prowess with a power chord. The band called itself Derek and the Dominos, and his publicist sent tips to the newspapers that said, “Derek is Eric.” Their manager sent them to Dowd, who took them to Criteria to record an album that became known as the classic “Layla and Other Assorted Love Songs.” Things didn’t start well.
“During the day we would go swimming and have saunas,
and then it was off to the studio to jam, sometimes with chemical assistance,” Clapton wrote in his memoir. “We were staying in a funky little hotel on Miami Beach where you could score hard drugs in the gift shop … You just placed your order with the girl who worked there, and you’d come back the next day and she’d hand it to you in a brown paper bag.”
One day when Clapton arrived at the studio, Dowd explained he couldn’t record that night because he had to see the Allman Brothers Band perform in Coconut Grove. Clapton asked to tag along.
drummer Butch Trucks recalled on the “Ultimate Classic Rock Nights” radio show years later. “That’s the one time I think I remember Duane being nervous.”
After the concert, the pair jammed in the studio for hours. Clapton wound up inviting Duane Allman to play on the record as they laid down tracks.
“Duane and I became inseparable during the time we were in Florida,” Clapton wrote in his memoir, “and between the two of us, we injected the substance into the ‘Layla’ sessions that had been missing up to that point.”
Critics later agreed that Allman’s abilities spurred Clapton to do his finest work ever. The album’s jacket contains a message of thanks to Emerman—but misspells his name.
Four years later, when Clapton had kicked his three-year heroin addiction and was ready to cut his comeback record, he returned to Miami. He rented a house at 461 Ocean Boulevard in Golden Beach while he spent a month recording the album by that name at Criteria.
Miami is a crossroads for musical influences, including funk, soul, Latin and Caribbean. One of the Miami musicians hired to play on the album, George Terry, brought in a record by Bob Marley and the Wailers called “Burnin.’” Clapton found the sound mesmerizing. Terry especially liked one Marley song, “I Shot the Sheriff.”
“You ought to cut this,” Terry told him. Clapton wasn’t sure but recorded a cover version anyway.
“I wasn’t that enamored of it,” Clapton recalled in his memoir. “When we got to the end of the sessions and started to collate the songs that we had, I told them I didn’t think ‘Sheriff’ should be included, as it didn’t do the Wailers’s version justice. But everyone said, ‘No, no, this is a hit.’”
She may have overdubbed a line here and there, but aretha franklin never sang a bad note in her life.
—Ron Albert
“So we walked out on stage, and here, sitting on the front row, is Tom Dowd and Eric Clapton,” Allman Brothers
They were right, and that cover version recorded at Criteria wound up introducing reggae to a lot of new listeners.
When a trio of fellow artists in the United Kingdom who had the same manager asked him to recommend a place to record in the States, Clapton wholeheartedly endorsed Criteria.
“Maybe the change of environment will do something for you?” he told them.
When brothers Barry, Robin and Maurice Gibb formed the Bee Gees in Australia in 1958, the focus of their music was
Above: Silver, gold and platinum records, representing the artists who have worked here, line the studio’s game room.
Left: Five-time Grammy-winning rapper Missy Elliott reserved studio time at Criteria for her verse in “1, 2 Step.”
their harmonies. Mostly they sang emotionally-soaked ballads, recorded in England.
But by 1974, their style of music had become passe. They couldn’t get desirable gigs anymore.
“We’d lost the will to write great songs,” Barry recalled later. “We had the talent, but the inspiration was gone.”
Then, at Clapton’s suggestion, they flew to Miami, rented 461 Ocean Boulevard and began recording the album “Main Course” at Criteria. This was the album that would vault them back to the top of the charts by introducing elements of funk and R&B.
“Basically, we’d lie all day on the beach, then work over at the studio in the evening and late into the night,” keyboardist Blue Weaver said. The biggest hit from the album came from their drive to the studio each day.
Barry heard a rhythm their car’s tires made on the 163rd St Causeway Bridge (now known as the Julia Tuttle Causeway)
as they crossed it. The sound inspired him to compose a song called “Drive Talking,” later that was changed to “Jive Talking.” Other hit songs from the album include “Nights on Broadway” and “Fanny (Be Tender with My Love).”
“Nights” marked a breakthrough of a different kind.
“Barry, can you give me some really wild ad libs to use on the fade?” the producer asked, according to a writer from
Duane and I became inseperable during the time we were in Florida.
—Eric Clapton
After that album’s soaring success, the Bee Gees cut several more LPs at Criteria, including the “Saturday Night Fever” soundtrack. When the writer from Playboy visited, he described the scene: “The studio, even with its inlaid wood, stained-glass ‘skylight’ and multicolored couches, looks severely lived in. Brown bags from the 7-Eleven, teacups, soda cans, ashtrays full of butts—all attest to the months of recording.”
Other bands flocked to Criteria. “They were the home of the hits,” Gravitt Jr. said. “Lightning struck there once, so everybody wanted to be there in case it struck again. You got that mojo in that room.”
But the place still had a family vibe, he said.
“Barry Gibbs would buy out a whole theater so he and his family could see a movie, and he’d invite everyone else at the studio to go, too,” he said.
There were limits, though.
“I once got kicked out of an Eagles recording session because I was playing Nerf basketball with them in a studio that was costing $300 an hour,” he said.
Criteria now seemed enormously successful. Even the Bee Gees couldn’t depend on being able to line up studio time there, so they built their own. Dowd and Emerman began making plans for a joint venture they called “Criteria West.”
It would be located in Southern California.
“We went so far as to buy the Walter Lantz Animation
Studios,” the Criteria boss told Studio Sound magazine. “It would have been a great location. Between us we came up with a fantastic design and actually started construction ... and January 1980 came, business stopped and interest rates went to 21 percent. We had to say stop, and stop we did thank goodness.”
Worse was yet to come.
the b-side
You can tell when some Florida fixture has become a legend: when it merits a mention in one of Tim Dorsey’s 26 comic crime novels about Florida-obsessed vigilante Serge Storms. In “Hurricane Punch,” Storms uses a crowbar to break into Criteria so he can record his own hit single there. He says he’s going to cover the final cut from Clapton’s “461 Ocean Boulevard” album, a song called “Mainline Florida” written by Terry. Instead, there’s a shootout (followed by sex on the mixing board).
Left: Criteria Recording Studios opened in 1958.
Below: Gloria Estefan recorded her three most successful albums at Criteria, including “Primitive Love.”
By the time that 2007 novel hit bookstores, though, Emerman was no longer overseeing Criteria.
“My father was a gearhead, a tech guy and not a good businessman at all,” his daughter Bebe Emerman told The New York Times when he died in 2013.
Deep in debt, he sold the studio in 1988 to a South Florida concert promoter named Joel Levy who also worked for his family’s real estate development company.
“It was scary and there was some skepticism,” Levy told the Miami Herald in 1998. “But now, we’ve definitely had to turn business away. Business is good.”
Just a year later, though, Levy sold Criteria. By the time Dorsey saluted the studio, the place was owned by a historic New York City studio called The Hit Factory. The new owners renamed it The Hit Factory Criteria Miami and launched an extensive renovation.
“Located near Biscayne Boulevard in northwest Miami, Hit Factory Criteria now has six full studios, including a large scoring room; a mastering studio; a digital audio editing suite; several pre-production rooms; and a host of other enhancements, technical, acoustical and aesthetic” the Mix reported in 2000. “Replete with African slate floor tiles and Italian porcelain fixtures, the environs are as palatial as those of its new northern parent.”
But by 2017, the name had reverted to Criteria Studios. Fletcher won’t say who owns it now. His employer has required him to sign an NDA.
The staff numbers 17 now, none of them recording engineers. Instead, he said, they maintain a list of freelance engineers with expertise in each genre who can show up when needed.
Criteria is a much more privacy-minded place now. Each studio has a separate, secure entrance. There’s little of the mingling that was once so common. You’ll never again find artists from multiple acts shooting baskets in the parking lot.
Yet people still seek out Criteria, hoping to hit the same jackpot as James Brown, Aretha Franklin, Eric Clapton and the Bee Gees. Sometimes they do. In Fletcher’s emails, there’s a link to a Spotify playlist of Criteria-made hits—438 songs. To listen to all of it takes 30 hours.
The diversity of the more modern years is astonishing. There are numbers by Missy Elliott, R.E.M., Toby Keith and Céline Dion. Sisqó’s “Thong Song” plays a few spots before Warrant’s “Cherry Pie.”
But how can Criteria still hold such allure in a time when new singers pop up who claim they can record great music with just a laptop?
“You can also do heart surgery with a Ginsu knife,” Fletcher said. “But should you?”
T A
A M P T STE
We travel to the city by the bay to explore a dining scene invigorated by Michelin stars while still fiercely loyal to the Cuban sandwich.
By ERIC BARTON
Test
Editorial Note:
At the time of print, Hurricane Milton was headed for Florida's Gulf Coast communities. Our staff decided to run this story because we did not know at that time what the future would hold. However, we do know that whatever happens, the residents and business owners of Tampa, St. Petersburg and the surrounding areas will likely need our support and patronage more than ever.
It’s the same in a lot of cities: somehow everybody has agreed on a shared personality. Friendliness in Kansas City. Brash-talking Boston. Philadelphia, the town that boos Santa. For Tampa, the personality of the city is founded on the backs of cigar factory workers, soldiers and mullet fishermen. It’s a city of pioneer women who became some of the first in the country to demand the right to vote. Tampa, it seems, is the city of the underdog.
Tampa is where pirates ducked into bays to outsmart armadas. Where natives chased away conquistadors. And Tom-effing-Brady—too old, past his prime. Yet a champion again, the ultimate Tampa story.
It happened again in 2022. Like the introduction of a new antagonist in Tampa’s backstory, the Michelin Guide arrived in Florida that year. Its inspectors scoured the dining scene of Tampa, Miami and Orlando. And to the restaurants in Tampa, they awarded a grand total of zero stars.
Since then, I’ve heard stories about how that rejection became fuel in the bellies of the city’s chefs. Restaurant owners and chefs wanted more than ever to show just how good things were in the city’s dining scene. Not only to prove the French tire makers
through an entirely new entertainment district that didn’t exist just a few years ago. I’m going to spoil the ending here by saying what I discovered was a vibrant food culture worthy not just of Michelin’s recognition but also a trip of your own. Here’s what I found in Florida’s city of comebacks.
Finding Religion
in a Sandwich
Jeff Houck was a cub reporter at The Palm Beach Post when he sat down alone for lunch at a table for four in West Palm Beach’s famed Havana restaurant. He ordered the Cuban. It was 1993.
“The heavens opened, and I heard the angels and everything became sunny and beautiful,” Houck said with a dramatic flourish in his voice, only half kidding. He realized right then that there were about seven or eight recipes represented in just that one sandwich. Somebody had spent considerable time baking Cuban bread, roasting and shredding pork, slicing ham and brining pickles.
Houck eventually landed at the then Tampa Tribune and became obsessed with the Cuban. He started writing about the sandwich, a habit that would turn into a book he co-authored, “The Cuban Sandwich: A History in Layers.”
I met Houck, 59, on a rainy-then-sunny-then-rainy afternoon during my trip to The Boozy Pig. It’s a West Tampa butcher shop that makes a version of the Cuban sandwich with nearly every ingredient made from scratch. “This place is the new standard-bearer for the Cuban,” Houck said.
A couple hours after my lunch with Houck, I knocked on the door of Koya restaurant and found the sous chefs working on their mise en place a couple hours before service. Owner and chef Eric Fralick, 48, offered his hand and then took a seat beside me at the counter.
Koya exists today largely because Fralick ended up with roommates from Japan when he moved to New York. They convinced him to go home with them, and what he figured would be a three-month trip turned into five years. Once
The food we loved, it wasn't available.
—Eric Fralick
Those are big words considering Houck’s day job as the vice president of marketing for the 1905 Family Of Restaurants, which owns the Columbia Restaurant, maker of one of the city’s most famous Cuban sandwiches. But Houck said The Boozy Pig represents a new era in Tampa where chefs have begun meticulously sourcing their ingredients. It’s not just sourcing ingredients from local farms, as so many chefs began doing in the past generation, but also obsessing.
back in New York, he met his wife, Adriana, a Tampa native who convinced him to move home with her in 2014. He found a city where restaurants were dominated by big-box chains. “All the food we loved in New York and Japan, it wasn’t available.”
So in 2019, they opened a sushi place, Noble Rice. After it took off, they began offering omakase, essentially chef’s choice sushi. People liked it so much that soon 75% of their business was the omakase menu. They moved Noble Rice in 2020 to a
Previous spread: Specialty sushi from Koya
This spread from left: The Boozy Pig's Cuban sandwich; a dish from Rocca; the dining room at Rocca; cocktails are key to the experience at Noble Rice.
bigger location at Sparkman Wharf and converted the original space into Koya, an eight-seat sushi counter where people now pay $295 for a multicourse omakase. It’s rare to find an empty seat.
It’s not just that omakase was new for Tampa. It’s also that Fralick goes to insane lengths to source ingredients. While nearly every Japanese restaurant has to go through the same purveyor for fish, Fralick figured out in 2019 how to buy directly from Tokyo’s fish market. He arrived to the cargo area at Tampa International Airport one day five years ago to find cardboard boxes with his name on them. Inside were Japanese newspapers wrapped around Styrofoam coolers of fish. “The quality of the product, it was just a night-and-day difference,” he said.
The end result, for instance, is an uni, or sea urchin, far creamier, richer and tasting more of the briny ocean off northern Japan. He keeps the Easter-egg-colored boxes they come in on shelves behind the sushi counter, lined up like heirlooms. What follows is a course served every night at Koya, where a slice of the sunrise-colored uni sits above milk bread toast with fuji apple, light soy, aged balsamic and a brown butter. It came to him, he said, as most of his dishes do, from “many sleepless nights.”
In 2023, Koya joined Rocca and Lilac to become the first three Tampa restaurants to receive a Michelin star. It’s helped reservations, no doubt, but it’s also led to something few people would’ve predicted: young chefs who want to work at a renowned restaurant send their CVs to Fralick’s inbox daily. And it definitely wasn’t always this way.
The Michelin Touch
For one of my favorite meals during my Tampa trip, I didn’t go far, just down 12 flights to the lobby of the JW Marriott Tampa Water Street. It’s one of the towers in the Water Street development that took up what used to be an unloved bit of land near downtown and is now full of hotels and condos and a trolley line heading to the historically Cuban Ybor City. From my booth in the JW’s restaurant, Driftlight Steakhouse, I could see the open kitchen, where sous chef Gayeon Baek, 33, was teaching two of her new line cooks how to plate her scallop dish. She walked the dish over to me afterward, and I asked if she had a minute to join me. It’s a stunning arrangement, plated all on the left side of a big platter, the crispy-seared scallops over a light parsnip puree, crunchy ribbons of celery and fennel, wellseared mushrooms and a sweet-smoky bacon marmalade. It’s delicate and balanced, like everything I ate of Baek’s cooking. Afterward, I walked a block north to Lilac, which takes up one end of the Tampa Edition luxury hotel’s lobby. They do a four-course dinner for $150 with stunning tweezer-plated dishes designed by New York chef John Fraser. Baek and Fraser, two talents who could be working anywhere, simply wouldn’t be in Tampa without Michelin. It’s also true for Bryce Bonsack, 35, who went to Tampa
Above: The dining room at Lilac inside
The Tampa Edition
Right: Lilac's chef John Fraser delicately plates a dish.
Clockwise: Seating area at Streetlight Taco; The Boozy Pig's Hillsborough hash; the dining room at Noble Rice; a scallop masterpiece at Driftlight Steakhouse
Catholic High School and eventually ended up at culinary school in New York. He worked at two, two-star Michelin spots in the city before coming back to Tampa to visit his folks while he was between jobs. That’s when he got talked into opening Rocca, named for a family he stayed with while traveling through Italy. It opened in October 2019, suffered in the pandemic and then was nearly lost to a fire and a flood. It quite literally rose from those ashes to receive the first 10/10 rating from the notoriously fussy Tampa Bay Times writer Helen Freund before receiving its Michelin star.
Since then, Bonsack has seen a consistent stream of emails from chefs wanting to work at his Michelin-starred place. “What Michelin brings to the table is it brings the level of talent back to Tampa,” Bonsack said. “People like me who grew up here and want to establish their resumes can now do that in Tampa.”
The fact that Michelin-quality places are working in Tampa said something, too. On the morning before I left town, I dropped into Boulon Brasserie and Bakery, a French restaurant in one of Water Street’s office towers, Thousand & One. Back in a tiny corner of the kitchen I joined pastry chef Summer Bailey, 47, as she rolled out pie dough, making sure not to overwork it so the chunks of butter would stay together, assuring the cooked pie dough would be flaky.
As she worked, Bailey recalled how last year somebody suggested she sell pies from Boulon’s attached bakery (a steady stream of people were buying baguettes, madelines and vegan-yet-luscious chocolate zucchini muffins on the morning I was there). To get the pies out in one day, Bailey arrived at 3 a.m. to go on to sell 120 of them. For $38, people could choose between pumpkin cheesecake with a Biscoff crust, pecan with a pretzel crust or salted caramel apple. They sold out before midday.
“People were excited because they were visiting family and they could say, ‘Hey, I got this great pie from Boulon, and it was made with love,’” Bailey said. As she spoke, she folded the dough in half, laid it out over a tin and then crimped the edges using a three-finger technique.
The fact that people in Tampa wanted her pies and were willing to pay a few dollars more than at the supermarket across the street, it says something about where things are in the city, she believes. “I don’t know if something changed or if people here always wanted to eat better, but there are so many places in town now doing really amazing things.”
After coming from New York, Bailey got her start in Tampa at an old classic, Bern’s Steak House. I told Bailey I had been the night before. “Okay, so, how was it?” she asked. We talked about Bern’s like two football fans analyzing yesterday’s Bucs game. Was it good? Worth the money? It’s a sport of sorts in Tampa to analyze the city’s oldest restaurant, and my answer to those questions is coming soon.
Bern's truth &
One great tortilla
I’d never been to Bern’s Steak House before and so, on my second night in town, I took a college friend I hadn’t seen in 20 years. I wondered why Michelin had passed Bern's over, and I started my night with a tour, something any dinner guest can do, weaving through all its dining rooms with alabaster statues, light box artwork and plush carpets and then into the kitchen so busy it feels like a Christmastime airport.
They sat us in a tiny dining room where they say presidents
This page: Bern's Steak House is a Tampa icon.
Opposite: An assortment of pastries at Boulon Brasserie and Bakery
Taste for Yourself
BERN’S STEAK HOUSE bernssteakhouse.com 1208 S. Howard Ave.
THE BOOZY PIG @theboozypig 3255 W. Cypress St.
BOULON BRASSERIE AND BAKERY
boulonbrasserie.com 1001 Water St.
DRIFTLIGHT STEAKHOUSE
driftlighttampa.com 510 Water St. (Located inside JW Marriott Tampa Water Street)
KOYA koyatampa.com 807 W. Platt St.
LILAC editionhotels.com/tampa 500 Channelside Drive (Located inside The Tampa Edition hotel)
ROCCA roccatampa.com 323 W. Palm Ave.
STREETLIGHT TACO
streetlighttacos.com 4004 Henderson Blvd.
Over the Bay in St. Petersburg
Intermezzo Coffee & Cocktails
This is the coffee-cocktail spot everybody needs close to home. By day, this Edge District cafe is about coffee, pastries and digital nomads on laptops. By night, regular live music transforms it into the ideal cocktail bar.
1111 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, FL intermezzo.co
Tampa Bay’s more bohemian twin city isn’t part of the Michelin Guide, but that hasn’t stopped a restaurant revolution there, too. Here are three spots we’re watching
Taverna Costale
Squid-ink linguini and grilled swordfish piccata are among the coastal Italian fare on the menu at this two-year-old concept from celebrity chef Fabio Viviani.
200 Central Ave. Suite 165, St. Petersburg, FL tavernacostale.com
House of Vegano
Sushi gets a vegan treatment at this spot in St. Pete’s emerging Warehouse Arts District, earning a spot on the Tampa Bay Times 2022 list of the best dishes. 1990 Central Ave. S, St. Petersburg, FL houseofvegano.com
have sat at a four-top near the door to the kitchen, just in case they needed to be whisked out by Secret Service agents. By many measures, Bern’s is outrageously dated, in no way a Michelin-quality restaurant. That’s obvious by the starters and sides that come with every steak order: cracker-like slices of bread, a bone-dry baked potato, a cafeteria-quality iceberg salad and soft green beans.
But if I lived in Tampa, I’d still go to Bern’s for every birthday. The tuxedo-clad waiters, the ice-cold martinis, the strip steak with its perfect sear, the parade of well-dressed wedding guests: it’s a celebration. There’s also the wine list, said to come from what may be the country’s largest restaurant cellar with a half-million bottles. Unbelievably, more than a hundred of them are offered by the glass. I ordered a glass of a 1974 Rothschild cabernet, the oldest wine I’ve ever consumed. The price: $28.
Still, though, it wasn’t my favorite meal in Tampa. That happened on my way out of town, when I stopped at Streetlight Taco and talked with Michael Brannock, 44, the chef and owner, while sitting at the bar. Brannock was in fifth grade in Sparta, North Carolina, when he found himself captivated by Spanish class, this idea of deciphering a foreign language was fascinating to him. He’d befriend anybody who spoke Spanish in school and soon found himself invited to quinceaneras and birthday parties. That’s where he had tortas and tamales—the food that would become his obsession.
By the time he opened Streetlight in January 2024, Brannock had already become a regular visitor to Mexico. He wanted his restaurant to serve the lesser-known regional dishes and ingredients of Mexico. The tortillas here, for instance, are made from corn sourced from farmers in Mexico and then ground in-house using stone wheels in the molino to create fresh ground masa and hand-pressed that day into imperfect circles. They are, I’ll tell you, the best tortillas I’ve ever had, the corn smooth and flavorful, nutty and earthy. I liked them best with the sweet potato taco, dotted with pomegranate seeds for crunch and thin-sliced charred jalapeno.
It would be easier and cheaper to buy tortillas from a restaurant delivery service, and there was a time in Tampa when customers would’ve thought that was just fine. “That’s just not the way I’m going to do it,” Brannock said. “I get obsessive about something like this, and it has to be perfect.”
lower-cost food. It happened just three months after opening. Now he has locals who come weekly, sometimes more. And tourists who come directly after getting off their plane, having read about Streetlight in the Michelin Guide. Like I did, people ask Brannock whether he’s going to open other spots. Such success can quickly lead to that. But for now, he said, he’s thinking about what new regional Mexican dish to obsess over.
I get obsessive... It has to be perfect.
—Michael Brannock
His obsession got the attention of Michelin, which gave him a Bib Gourmand, which recognizes restaurants that serve good,
Streelight, I should mention is located in the space of a former barbecue restaurant on Henderson Boulevard, one of those quintessential Florida roads of congestion and chains. There’s a UPS store next door.
It’s like that in Tampa
these days, good food in so many places. This underdog city, where the restaurant scene has seen its rise, is finally receiving the recognition it deserves as a place where you can undoubtedly eat very well.
This page: A cornucopia of Mexican dishes at Streelight Taco
Opposite: Grilled bone marrow from Taverna Costale in St. Petersburg
Panhandling
THE FORK & THE GRAVE
Prissy Elrod learns the power of good cooking, for better or worse.
If someone had told me I’d be married to a man whose idea of fine dining was a medium-rare steak, I would have laughed them out of the room. But life, as I’ve learned, serves up surprises you never saw coming.
I grew up in a household where the most exotic dish was meatloaf with a hint of paprika. As a child, I mostly survived on butter and sugar sandwiches made from
white Wonder bread, as I found most meats too chewy. My mother, a staunch vegetarian and early advocate of plant-based diets, often shared her unique food philosophies, which I found perplexing. Yet, time has proven she was ahead of her own.
Her culinary catchphrases echoed in my mind: “Throw that away, it’s poison,” “You are what you eat,” and the most alarming, “Red meat sits in your colon for three days.” That
last one struck a chord and led me to avoid red meat. Though I thought her ideas were a bit extreme, I later realized some had merit, especially with the revelations about Teflon cookware and talc in baby powder. Perhaps I should have given her more credit, aside from the whole meat-in-thecolon farce.
Despite her food wisdom, my mother was perhaps the worst cook to ever come
out of New Orleans. My father, on the other hand, appreciated the hearty flavors of his Alabama upbringing. Raised in Lafayette, where meals came from garden-fresh produce and the occasional yard chicken, he must have been shocked when my mother served her first meal.
They settled in Lake City, where my father opened his medical practice. One day, a young woman named Mazelle Patterson walked in to apply for a janitorial position. When my father asked, “Can you cook?” and she replied, “’Bout anything,” she was hired right there on the spot. Mazelle became a beloved family member and the most influential person in my life.
French and Italian, while my father’s roots were Southern. I had been unknowingly hungry for years, yearning to learn how to make the foods I loved in Italy and France.
Six months after returning from Europe, I married, entering a new chapter of cluelessness in the kitchen. I had spent years with Mazelle but never learned from her. My husband, Boone, was no better in the kitchen. Raised as one of eight children with a 25-year age gap between the oldest and youngest, his mother was too tired to cook.
“The kitchen staff.”
Still a bit woozy from the Nyquil, I dragged myself to Boone’s Jeep, and we sped to Wendy’s. We found our daughters happily munching on french fries while Boone and the grinning grill cook worked to free our greased-up toddler.
It wasn’t the worst thing Boone ever did, but it was close.
He explained that our youngest had gotten stuck in a high chair, and Boone, unable to free her, had left the restaurant to retreive a saw.
Her Southern cooking was the epitome of comfort food— stuffed green peppers, country-fried steak smothered in gravy and her specialty: fried chicken. I missed her on the rare days she wasn’t there, but never more than on one particular Saturday. My mother had concocted a vegan imitation meat dish she’d found in Gainesville. My father took a forkful, chewed, and then my mother said, “Mazelle’s cooking will kill you one day; she’s digging her grave with a fork.” My father, ever patient, pushed back his chair, picked up his plate and walked to the sink. The shatter of the plate echoed in my mind as he stormed out, “You pick how you die, and I’ll pick how I do.”
Crisco and Bullet casings
After college, I toured Europe with a friend, and there, amid the vineyards of France and trattorias of Italy, I had an awakening. For the first time, I loved food. I fell in love with French and Italian cuisine, realizing I had never truly belonged to the Southern food tradition. My mother’s ancestors were
Three weeks into our marriage, I came down with the flu and asked Boone to make me some soup.
He handed me a bowl of hot water, an undissolved beef bouillon cube and a raw egg floating on top. His cooking skills never improved, and the only thing worse than his culinary attempts was his babysitting.
One memorable incident occurred when I was sick again. I suggested Boone take our daughters, aged 2 and 5, to Wendy’s for lunch. I fell asleep, only to be awakened by loud banging. Groggy, I stumbled into the kitchen to find Boone holding a saw. “Where are the girls?” I screamed.
“They’re still at Wendy’s,” he said calmly.
“Are you crazy, you left them alone?”
“No, they’re with the kitchen staff.”
Two toddlers left with strangers—did he hear himself? He explained that our youngest had gotten stuck in a high chair, and Boone, unable to free her, had left the restaurant to retrieve a saw.
“We tried Crisco,” he said.
“We? Who is we?” I demanded.
Another disaster occurred one Thanksgiving when he brought home a wild turkey for our family’s feast. I roasted the bird, filling the house with its savory aroma. But when we all sat down to eat, the first bite was met with an awkward silence from all 14 guests, followed by the crunch of shotgun pellets lodged in the meat. Bless Boone’s heart and that overkilled turkey.
A Low-cal Lifespan
In life’s twist of irony, my mother outlived my father by 30 years and Boone by 20. Boone was health regimented and ran three miles a day, never smoked or drank and ate strictly organic. Yet, he died of a brain tumor at only 50. Mazelle passed away at 98 and outlived my mother, who passed away at 90, by three years. In the three years between their deaths, Mazelle often reminisced about my mother, her fondness peppered with sarcasm.
“That woman ’bout drove me crazy with her fork and grave talk. I be listening over 70 years to her crazy ass. Now here I be, and where is she?” Mazelle would say, and we would both burst out laughing.
Refined Palates
After two years of widowhood, I reunited with my college boyfriend, Dale. A lifelong
Panhandling
sunny dispatches from NW FLA
But when we all sat down to eat, the first bite was met with an awkward silence from all 14 guests, followed by the crunch of shotgun pellets lodged in the meat.
bachelor from the Midwest, Dale was a man of few words and simple tastes. He didn’t know a croissant from a croquette and had never heard of quinoa. I tried to introduce him to my penchant for gourmet cooking— truffles, osso buco and my deep-seated belief in the power of kale—but he stayed steadfast in his culinary simplicity. After my years of chasing culinary extravagance, for whatever reason, I found his lack of epicurean pretension refreshingly honest.
When we first married, Dale didn’t care about organic farm-to-table or the latest gastro trend, but he did care about me. He embraced my health choices without trying to change me, and I eventually gave up trying to change him. Recently, he’s become a resolute carnivore, eating only meat. Can you see the irony? The girl who avoided red meat for decades now shares her life with a man who eats nothing but meat. But we’ve found a way to blend—this carnivore
eater and whatever I am. In my quest, I have discovered one thing for sure: a well-poured glass of wine, rich with depth and character, pairs with just about anything.
Dale and I may come from different culinary worlds, but we’ve found a way to blend them into something uniquely ours, navigating life’s buffet together.
Prissy Elrod is a professional speaker, artist and humorist, and the author of “Far Outside the Ordinary.” She was born and raised in Lake City and now lives in Tallahassee with her husband, Dale. She has authored two nonfiction books: “Far Outside the Ordinary” and “Chasing Ordinary,” the sequel.
— favorites, flings & Finer things —
ON THE FLY
— THE SEASON
—
Marathons, markets, museums and more across the state
— DESIGN DISTRICT
—
How to create comfort in the uncomfortable grove stand
Pearls of wisdom from Pelican Oyster Co.
— BIRD’S-EYE VIEW
—
18 places to sip, shop and stop in Fort Pierce
— FLORIDA WILD
—
These ladies are fireproof.
— FLORIDIANA
—
There’s nothing junior about a Junior League cookbook.
This page: La Màrtola in Miami specializes in European-style, brick-oven pizzas
On point PIcks
Your can’t-miss cultural calendar for Florida’s most exciting time of year, with events spanning performing arts, food fests, music weekends, art fairs, holiday extravaganzas and more.
SUPER GIRL SURF PRO
JACKSONVILLE BEACH
Nov. 8–10
Catch the wave of female empowerment as the World Surf League’s fiercest women compete for the iconic red cape. Enjoy beach yoga, a live concert series, a bustling festival village and more. supergirljax.com
SPIRIT IN THE LAND
JACKSONVILLE
Nov. 9–Feb. 9
Step into “Spirit in the Land,” a world-class exhibit in which vibrant outdoor art celebrates the wild beauty of nature and its deep connection to humanity, now on display at Jacksonville’s Cummer Museum. cummermuseum.org
PENSACOLA EGG FEST
PENSACOLA
Nov. 10
DONNA MARATHON WEEKEND
JACKSONVILLE AND THE BEACHES
Jan. 31–Feb. 2
Tighten the laces on your running shoes, pin your bib and press shuffle on the custom iHeart Radio
Donna Marathon playlist for a weekend full of personal bests and dollars raised for The Donna Foundation, a nonprofit focused on providing financial relief for families fighting breast cancer.
Founded in 2003 by Jacksonville Mayor Donna Deegan—a three-time breast cancer survivor—the organization partners with the Mayo Clinic Breast Cancer Genomics Program as they diligently search for a cure. Start with a 5K, or sign up for a challenge with an ultra, full or half-marathon next to thousands of racers as they jog up and down the idyllic neighborhoods throughout Jacksonville, Atlantic and Neptune Beaches. Every step you take supports the foundation’s mission to provide hope and relief
30A SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL
WALTON COUNTY
Jan. 16-20
festival. Enjoy carolers, festive and sweet treats as the charm
Feel the magic of 30A as more than 175 artists light up intimate beachside stages. From folk to rock, this music festival celebrates 16 years as the ultimate coastal getaway with a soundtrack to match.
30asongwritersfestival.com
Above: Pensacola’s Snowball Derby
Above: Run through the seaside neighborhoods of Jacksonville Beach at Donna Marathon Weekend.
Brooke Armstrong, Shoulders Like Wings, Porcelain, wire, silk, steel, 46x30x14 in.
ORANGE BLOSSOM REVUE
LAKE WALES
Dec. 6-7
Sway in the shade of towering oaks and palmetto trees as blues, soul, folk and country music transport you to simpler times. Between sets from artists such as JJ Grey & Mofro, The War and Treaty, Robert Earl Keen and Emily Nenni, grab bites and brews from local food trucks and craft beer vendors. orangeblossomrevue.com
TAMPA BAY BLACK
HERITAGE FESTIVAL
TAMPA
Jan. 10-17
Celebrate 25 years of empowering and honoring the Black community during the Bay Area’s largest African American festival, featuring seminars for business and leadership growth, a 5K run/ walk and a week of cultural experiences leading up to MLK Jr. Day. tampablackheritage.org
FELLSMERE FROG LEG FESTIVAL
FELLSMERE
Jan. 16-19
Hop into a weekend packed with live music, carnival rides and artisan tents during this 34-year tradition. The real adventure begins when you sink your teeth into frog legs or gator tail on a stick. froglegfestival.com
FLORIDA MANATEE FESTIVAL
CRYSTAL RIVER
Jan. 18-19
(CENTRAL)
Embark on a guided manatee boat tour along Kings Bay, where sightings of these gentle giants are almost certain. Back on shore, stop by craft vendors offering sea cow-themed art and wares, and take the free shuttle to Three Sisters Springs for a quick dip. gomanateefest.com
SURFING SANTAS
COCOA BEACH
Dec. 24
GASPARILLA PIRATE FESTIVAL
TAMPA
Jan. 18, Jan. 25
Unlock a treasure trove of thrills with Ye Mystic Krewe of Gasparilla and search for the key to the city at this pirate party. Hoist the colors and prepare for an acrobatic airshow, fireworks and a parade filled with beads and booze on Bayshore Boulevard. gasparillapiratefest.com
IMAGES: A FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS
NEW SMYRNA BEACH
Jan. 24–26
Celebrate creativity in diversity at the 49th year of this premier juried art festival, located in Riverside Park. Admire ceramics, paintings, textiles, photographs and sculptures from more than 230 artists from across the country, all vying for $30,000 in cash prizes. imagesartfestival.org
Suit up, paddle out and hang ten in a sea of Santas on the morning of Christmas Eve. During this annual tradition hosted by the Florida Surf Museum, ride the waves alongside more than 800 surfers or watch from the shore with upward of 10,000 spectators. Catch the sunrise and set up for a day of holiday stoke and festivities, featuring an annual costume contest, a performance by the Brevard Hawaiian Dancers, live music and the first Surfin’ Mingle street party, a line of food vendors and local makers along Minutemen Causeway. This jingle-bell-rocking surf session raises money to support the Florida Surf Museum and Grind For Life, a nonprofit that provides financial support to patients and families fighting cancer. surfingsantas.org
Above: Listen to folk musicians at the Orange Blossom Revue.
Above: Surf with hundreds of Santas on Christmas Eve morning in Cocoa Beach.
XIMENEZ-FATIO HOUSE MUSEUM
Every room has a story
Discover 226+ Years of History!
Immerse yourself in the 19th-century lives that once thrived here through our captivating Guided and SelfGuided Audio Tours. With specialty events and everevolving exhibits, there's always something going on at the Ximenez-Fatio House Museum!
Join us from November 23rd to January 26th for our "100 Years of Music" exhibit, a creative collaboration between the Ximenez-Fatio House Museum and the St. Augustine Art Association. Artists will transform our fireplaces with displays inspired by music from 1924 to 2024, highlighting genres, instruments, artists, or albums. This unique exhibit is featured on both self-guided and guided tours.
20 Aviles Street, St. Augustine, FL, 32084 904-829-3575
At MOCA Jacksonville, creativity has no age limit! From budding young artists to seasoned creatives, the museum has a class for you. Dive into diverse art-making programs, including fun seasonal camps for kids and teens, engaging classes for children and specialized courses for adults in ceramics, figure drawing and more.
EXPLORE NEW SKILLS AT MOCA JACKSONVILLE!
Jacksonville
MOCA
TIFFANY CHAPEL: 25 YEARS AT THE MORSE
WINTER PARK
On going
What better way to celebrate 25 years of “Tiffany Chapel,” an intricate glass mosaic by Louis Comfort Tiffany, on exhibition at the Morse Museum, than with another magnificent work?
Witness “Fathers of the Church” by Tiffany on view this season. morsemuseum.org
WRITERS OF SURREALISM: SALVADOR DALÍ
ST. PETERSBURG
Now–Jan. 5
Known for the power of his paintbrush, Dalí also packed a punch behind his pen. Learn the artist’s inner thoughts at this presentation of writings such as “Diary of a Genius” and “The Secret Life of Salvador Dalí.” thedali.org
GASPARILLA MUSIC FESTIVAL
TAMPA
Feb. 14-16
Belly up to the stage as homegrown talent and nationallyknown bands belt out their best hits. Enjoy music from artists like Aidan Bissett all in support of Recycled Tunes, a program that helps to keep music education alive in the Tampa Bay area. gasparillamusic.com
ARTS WEEKEND 2025
WINTER PARK
Feb. 20–23
90TH ANNUAL FLORIDA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL
PLANT CITY
Buckle up for an unforgettable pre-race performance featuring
pumping before NASCAR’s top drivers rev their engines and go head-to-head in the Great
Let creativity flourish at this four-day arts festival, featuring a plein air concert by the Bach Festival Society of Winter Park. Stretch out and rejuvenate during yoga in the Mead Botanical Garden, enjoy exhibitions at the Rollins Museum of Art and catch shows at the Winter Park Playhouse. cityofwinterpark.org
Feb. 27-March 9
Get ripe and ready to celebrate this sweet start to strawberry season. The annual fruit-themed fair is filled with musical performances, carnival rides (like the “berry” big Ferris wheel) and, of course, strawberry shortcakes, milkshakes, jams and more. flstrawberryfestival.com
Above: Spend the Gasparilla Pirate Festival on the Jose Gasparilla II, the only fully-rigged pirate ship in the world.
Above: Matt Shultz at the Gasparilla Music Festival.
TIFFANY CHAPEL
Celebration begins October 15, 2024
The Tiffany Glass and Decorating Company (1892–1902) exhibited a magnificent chapel interior as the centerpiece of its display for the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. On exhibition at the Morse since 1999, the Museum proudly celebrates the 25th anniversary of its installation at the Museum.
407-645-5311 | morsemuseum.org
SARASOTA INT’L CHALK FESTIVAL
SARASOTA
Nov. 8-10
Watch as global artists transform the streets into stunning canvases featuring mesmerizing chalk art, interactive 3D illusions and intricate flower “carpets” by master artisans. chalkfestival.org
COUNTRY BAY MUSIC FESTIVAL
MIAMI
Nov. 9-10
The 305 goes country as it welcomes an unforgettable festival lineup featuring the Zac Brown Band on Miami’s stunning waterfront. countrybaymusicfestival.com
MIAMI BOOK FAIR
MIAMI
Nov. 17-24
Celebrate the 40th Miami Book Fair with captivating author talks and lively discussions featuring legends like author and performer Patti Smith, as well as a vibrant street festival. miamibookfair.com
HOLIDAY IN PARADISE
WEST PALM BEACH
Dec. 1-31
Catch the holiday spirit with Sandi, the world’s only 700-ton Christmas tree made entirely of sand. A nightly light show takes place throughout December. thepalmbeaches.com
ART BASEL
MIAMI BEACH
Dec. 6-8
(SOUTH)
The global art scene converges on Miami Beach, where 238 remarkable exhibitors will showcase their works. Discover innovative galleries and immerse yourself in the dynamic celeb-studded atmosphere of exclusive parties and Miami’s thriving art culture at this world-class event. artbasel.com/miami-beach
IGNITE BROWARD
PALM BEACH FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL
PALM BEACH
Dec. 12-15
Feast, sip and mingle at this year’s four-day fest, featuring dishes from 60plus restaurants, multicourse dinners, over 100 top wineries and a thrilling chef competition. Taste plates from chefs like Clay Conley, Michelle Bernstein and more. pbfoodwinefest.com
DANIA BEACH & FORT LAUDERDALE
Feb. 14–23
KUMQUAT FESTIVAL
DADE CITY
Jan. 25
Stroll through historic Dade City while tasting the flavors of kumquats, affectionately known as “little gold gems.” Savor citrus delights such as kumquat-infused pie, peanut butter, ice cream and more while exploring a maze of artisan tents at this familyfriendly fruit festival. kumquatfestival.org
Experience this immersive fusion of art and technology as Dania Beach and cities in Fort Lauderdale come alive with the fourth annual Ignite Broward, presented by the Broward County Cultural Division in partnership with Mad Arts. Witness cutting-edge creativity through massive 3D projection mapping, interactive art displays and innovative light sculptures. Transforming Broward County into an electrifying art scene, the 10-day free event promises its biggest edition yet, spanning nearly four locations. With over 20 talented artists and 30 installations, guests can immerse themselves in performances, artist-led talks, workshops, hands-on experiences and more. Don’t miss a chance to witness art transcend its canvas and technology redefine creativity at one of Broward’s premier cultural events. ignitebroward.com
Above: Light up your imagination at Ignite Broward, an immersive art exhibition in Dania Beach and Fort Lauderdale.
Above: Miami’s Art Basel showcases 238 global exhibitors.
L’ABBINAMENTO PERFETTO FEAT. DUCKHORN WINES
CORAL GABLES
Nov. 19
Savor the elegance of renowned reds and indulge in a five-course dining experience by chef Vladimir Blanes at The Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables, featuring sophisticated pairings, glazed beef short ribs and gourmet cheeses such as caciotta al tartufo and more. biltmorehotel.com
QUINTESSENTIALLY WE
LAKE WORTH BEACH
Nov. 22–Jan. 18
Dive into culture, heritage and identity at Palm Beach’s latest artist exhibition. Curated by Cultural Council for Palm Beach County Director of Artist Services Jessica Ransom, this viewing brings personal stories to life in a dynamic celebration of what connects us all. palmbeachculture.com
BUGS
MIAMI
Nov. 23-April 20
Step into the curious world of insects with the Frost Science Museum’s newest exhibition, revealing the secret world of these tiny titans and their surprising impact on technology and innovation. Learn the physics behind dragonfly flight,
THE SEMINOLE HARD ROCK WINTERFEST BOAT PARADE
FORT LAUDERDALE
Dec. 14
Set sail into the magic of the holidays with this annual maritime procession. Watch as dazzling, decked-out boats light up the water, bringing cheer to the Intracoastal Waterway. winterfestparade.com
OH, FLORIDA!
PALM BEACH
Jan. 21–April 20
Step into Old Florida’s lush, untamed beauty with The Harn Museum’s Vickers Collection, on view at the Flagler Museum. Through paintings, experience the state’s exotic landscapes as Henry Flagler once did. flaglermuseum.us
SOUTH FLORIDA
GARLIC
FEST
WELLINGTON
Feb. 1-2
The “Best Stinkin’ Party in South Florida” returns to the Wellington Amphitheater, where revelers don their cloviest costumes, relish in garlic-infused dishes and groove to a mix of eclectic musical acts. garlicfestfl.com
55TH ANNUAL EVERGLADES
SEAFOOD FESTIVAL
EVERGLADES CITY
Feb. 7-9
COCONUT GROVE ARTS FESTIVAL
COCONUT GROVE
Feb. 15-17
Consider BYOB (bringing your own bib) to this fresh seafood fest. Enjoy live country music, carnival rides and more at this threeday feast, supporting local fishermen and communities. evergladesseafood festival.com
This sun-kissed winter celebration of creativity and culture features more than 280 artists in over 15 mediums. Highlights include an Arts & Drafts beer garden and a 360-degree art projection experience in the heart of Coconut Grove. cgaf.com
SOUTH BEACH
WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL
MIAMI BEACH
Feb. 20-23
From burgers to fine dining, don’t miss a weekend of foodie fun, where celebrated chefs, such as Kenny Gilbert, Michelle Bernstein and Bobby Flay, craft epic eats that take over the sands of Miami Beach, attracting celebs like Charlie Day and Neil Patrick Harris. sobewff.org
Above: The Country Bay Music Festival in Miami
Above: Dine at more than 60 restaurants at the Palm Beach Food & Wine Festival.
Flagler’s Footprint
Celebrate the Florida magnate’s lasting impact.
Walk the heralded halls of Henry Flagler’s 100,000-square-foot estate at the Flagler Museum, Palm Beach’s center for preserving and protecting the magnate’s legacy. Learn what it was like to sit in Flagler’s private Railcar No. 91 and explore Whitehall’s polished Beaux-Arts style architecture. View more of the visionary’s accomplishments at the museum’s latest exhibition, “In the Golden Dreamland of Winter: Henry Flagler’s FEC Hotel Company,” which takes guests up and down Florida’s coast, highlighting iconic destinations such as Hotel Royal Poinciana, The Breakers and Hotel Royal Palm, and is open until Dec. 29. For more information, visit flaglermuseum.us.
This page from top: Hand-colored photograph of Henry Flagler’s first hotel, the Hotel Ponce de Leon in St. Augustine, opened in 1888; Whitehall, Henry Flagler’s Gilded Age estate in Palm Beach, now the Flagler Museum
Weekending In Winter Park THE ART OF A PERFECT GETAWAY
Old World charm isn’t a phrase you hear often when describing Florida cities, but those three words encapsulate what Winter Park is all about. With its oak tree-lined neighborhoods, brick streets and Spanish revival architecture, the quaint village is a breath of fresh air from the surrounding hustle and bustle of the greater Orlando region. While the heart of Winter Park is anchored around Park Avenue, a haven for al fresco dining and boutiques, it’s also home to one of the Sunshine State’s most vibrant art scenes. Winter Park provides a different sense of charm than the shows of Art Basel, the street murals of Wynwood Walls, or Sarasota’s Cultural Coast. The concentration of Winter Park’s visual and performing art hubs, within a 10-square-mile radius, puts the city on par with the state’s other top players in terms of culture and creative ventures.
Zoom In
The interesting thing about the city is at first glance you don’t notice just how deeply embedded the arts are within it. Between its serene chain of lakes and lush treetop canopies, it’s easy to get distracted by Winter Park’s surface beauty, but like sitting with a painting, the longer you look, the more you’ll find. Take The Alfond Inn. With an idyllic rooftop pool, first-rate Floridainspired accommodations and posh lobby, it’s hard to beat. But as you soak in your surroundings, you’ll notice how it’s truly a work of art unto itself, from the mosaic of more than 300,000 sculpted yellow flowers leading the way to the spa to other eye-catching installations and paintings in the atrium. Not to mention, The Alfond Inn is the only hotel in the country that serves as an extension of an art museum, and it’s always featuring new pieces that are a part of The Alfond Collection of Contemporary Art from the Rollins Museum of Art, which now includes more than 630 works.
Explore Mixed Media
With so many museums, galleries and performing art establishments within such close proximity to each other, Winter Park launched their Arts & Culture Alliance in 2017 with the hope of accomplishing a common goal: to enhance and improve awareness and visibility of the arts within the community. The 24 nonprofit organizations in the Alliance meet monthly to collaborate, discover and inspire each other—and to see how they can work together to enrich locals and visitors
alike. There’s always something happening in Winter Park for those looking to get their culture fix, making it easy to spend an entire weekend enjoying the arts.
Discover Fresh Perspectives
If you’re looking for an artsy escape, mark your calendar for Feb. 20-23, when Arts Weekend, an annual event sponsored by the Arts & Culture Alliance, returns after a six-year hiatus. All the members are coming together for a celebration centered on creativity and connectedness. On Thursday night, the festivities officially kick off with a keynote speaker on arts and wellbeing. On Friday evening, “Big Band Spirituals” will perform in Central Park, where African American soul and jazz music is transformed by the Bach Festival Society of Winter Park. Saturday’s lineup is an afternoon affair where booths representing the Alliance members are set up across Central Park to educate the community about their missions and programming. There will also be a rotating slate of performances on Central Park’s Main Stage, from dance routines to musical and theatrical acts, alongside kid’s activities and other interactive art experiences. On Sunday, the Alliance is encouraging everyone to get out to see firsthand what their members are all about, with many of the members offering specialty programming and discounts. And
Meet the Arts & Culture Alliance Members
• Albin Polasek Museum & Sculpture Gardens + Capen Showalter House
• ArtReach Orlando
• Bach Festival Society of Winter Park
• Blue Bamboo Center for the Arts
• Casa Feliz Historic Home Museum
• Central Florida Vocal Arts & Opera del Sol
• Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art
• City of Winter Park Public Art Collection
• Crealdé School of Art + Hannibal Square Heritage Center
The Alfond Inn
This page from left: Winter Park Playhouse Performers; Albin Polasek Museum & Sculpture Gardens
ON THE FLY: DESIGN DISTRICT
By Nila Do Simon
Miami's Most DAring designs
This page: The entry hall of Queen Miami Beach inside the historic Paris Theater
How Carlos Rodriguez turned discomfort into a design philosophy
ON THE FLY: DESIGN DISTRICT
By his own account, Carlos Rodriguez likes to be uncomfortable. Like when, as a young adult, the interior designer left behind some of Miami's most glamorous spaces, forgoing the comforts of his tropical South Florida abodes for the concrete jungles of New York City to study architectural design at Pratt Institute. And when, after graduating from Pratt, he eschewed working at a traditional architectural firm to seek a job in the grittier world of construction.
“I’m the type of person who puts himself in the most uncomfortable sector to learn about it,” said Rodriguez, who admits that as a gay man, being in the toughguy construction field gave him additional reason for unease.
“Life is too short, and the discomfort is what makes you better. If you don’t allow yourself to take risks, the possibility your design (will) have a voice that echoes is very short.”
The ability to be comfortable with the uncomfortable has served Rodriguez well as of late. In the past two years, Rodriguez and his studio, Escala Forma, have bestowed form and function on the highly anticipated Lafayette Steakhouse in Miami’s trendy Brickell neighborhood, as well as the luxurious Japanese restaurant, Queen Miami Beach. Most recently, he designed the interiors of the reopened Marion, a
restaurant-nightclub crossover that helped launch Miami’s clubstaurants era.
Despite each space’s obvious differences, it can be said that a Rodriguez design has certain qualities that make it distinct from its contemporaries. Artwork and bespoke linens drape every corner of a room, and a hat tip to old-world elegance melds harmoniously with contemporary aesthetics. And his use of lighting? That’s best described by Rodriguez himself.
“I’m a firm believer that lighting is what controls design. A beautiful chandelier can control a story and help tell its story.”
Including the tale of Aiko, an ultra-
I’m the type of person who puts himself in the most uncomfortable sector to learn about it.
—CARLOS RODRIGUEZ
This page: Carlos Rodriguez founded Escala Forma design studio, which has transformed some of Miami's most iconic spaces and structures.
Next page, clockwise: Queen Miami Beach's dining room inside the Paris Theater; Aiko, an exclusive and private lounge at Queen Miami Beach; Queen Miami Beach encapsulates elegant refinement.
exclusive private dining room, bar and lounge inside Queen Miami Beach. Aiko, the Japanese word for "little loved one," is a marriage between Japanese restraint and Miami flair, all housed inside the historic art deco-styled Paris Theater, built in 1945 by architect Henry Hohauser. Already a melding of multiple cultural concepts, Aiko’s melting pot story forced Rodriguez to be intentional about how to incorporate lighting into the historic room. With ceilings that had pockets of recess, Rodriguez thought, why not put design on its head and include an inverted Japanese sand garden on the ceiling? The result created not only a beautiful nod to the calmness of a Japanese sand garden, but also a functional, organic indentation to place glass chandeliers from Murano, Italy. Rodriguez’s tie to design is deep-seated. Born into a family of doctors who supported his love of art and painting, he remembers his father, Jorge, converting their family shed into a workshop for them both to design and create together. There, the two made time for each other and bonded over discussions of art and style. As Rodriguez took an interest in architecture, he began building models in the shed, where he and Jorge would shared “these moments together and really, really connected to understand two different versions of architecture: I, being younger, had this brighter approach, and my dad had this strict approach.”
ON THE FLY: DESIGN DISTRICT
Conversations with his father led Rodriguez to appreciate the confluence of new and old ideas, a characteristic that served him well when he went on to work at Faena Group as a designer and project manager in 2014. Working alongside visionary Alan Faena to transform a stretch of Miami Beach into a new revolutionary art and hospitality district, Rodriguez helped turn the historic Saxony Hotel, built in 1948, into a lavish luxury resort filled with artful moments. Working on the public areas, Rodriguez helped translate concepts created by designer Catherine Martin and her husband, film director Baz Luhrmann, to restore the old hotel, each talking “about design in a cinematic way, how the person would be impacted in a space and making it feel residential, but also a little bit regal.”
Two years later, Rodriguez branched out, first opening design firm ModPlay Studio with a business partner, and then Escala Forma on his own. Using his degree and background in architectural design, Rodriguez said he’s been able to translate the technical aspects of a building’s structure, including structural engineering and electrical plans, when he’s designing interiors. That way, he said, clients can feel more protected, as if they have an ally in him at every step of the building and design process.
Above all, Rodriguez said, “I want my space to be fearless, to be impactful.” As much as that statement is about his design, one couldn’t help but wonder if it’s also a message about who Rodriguez is himself.
“Yes, it’s partly my aesthetics, but I’m not going to live in this space, the client is,” he clarified. “I believe that this life is comprised of all these moments: You work hard, and you just want to go to these venues for dinner, and you want them to have an impact on you. That’s what I’m creating: spaces with impact.”
Above: In addition to glamorous commercial work, Rodriguez’s design studio also reimagines residential spaces for clients who appreciate Escala Forma’s daring approach, seen here in this Boca Raton home.
ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND
SEASON’S EATINGS
By Steve Dollar
Oyster Rock
An artist and musician at the heart of a new wave of Up-andcoming oyster farms is not letting anything stand in his way.
This page: Freshly harvested Pelican Oyster Co. oysters
As the frontman in multiple punk and hardcore bands in the early aughts, Cainnon Gregg spent his youth slamming full tilt on the Jacksonville bar circuit, a scene blaring in the long shadow of Southern rock demigods.
“We used to play Freebird [Cafe],” recalls Gregg, of the venue founded by Ronnie Van Zant’s widow Judy Van Zant and daughter Melody. “That was one of the coolest things.”
It might seem surprising that he’s reinvented himself two decades later as an up-andcoming entrepreneur amid a new wave of Gulf Coast oyster farmers. More punks probably grow up to become CEOs than acute connoisseurs of the much-cherished bivalve who actively pioneer the future of an endangered marine legacy. But Gregg is both. He’s the founder of Pelican Oyster Co., farming alongside an intrepid assortment of budding aquaculturists in Spring Creek, about 30 miles south of Tallahassee in Wakulla County. His oysters are served at some of the Southeast’s finest restaurants and beyond. Find them on menus at culinary hot spots such as Automatic Seafood and Oysters in Birmingham, Alabama, The Catbird Seat in Nashville, Tenneesee and Peche Seafood Grill in New Orleans.
“Growing up in Jacksonville, I never even thought about where the oyster was from, right?” he says, reflecting on how his awareness was raised and taste buds aroused after he left home for a peripatetic career as an artist and carpenter moving around the Southeast. While living in Decatur, Georgia, several years ago, Gregg was hired to build butcher block tables for a new restaurant called Kimball House that was being constructed inside an old railroad station in his neighborhood. “Of course, I said I could do it, but I’d never really done it before,” he says, offering a kind of life philosophy on a recent morning as he enjoyed a coffee at Ology Midtown in Tallahassee. After Kimball House opened,
Gregg became a frequent guest. “That’s where I got introduced to how different oysters could be.” Gregg and his wife, Kiki, adopted a new gustatorial agenda. “We started being oyster tourists,” he says. “Whenever we’d go back to Charleston, or when we’d go to Savannah or New Orleans, it was like, ‘Alright, let’s try whatever.’”
farm, as it did to many others on the Forgotten Coast, and he had to start over again. And then the pandemic hit, knocking the restaurant business on its side. While many of his fellow farmers gave up, Gregg did not.
PELICAN OYSTER CO.
Flash forward to 2018, and Gregg—now living in Tallahassee— gave up his corporate job and was suddenly at loose ends. Aquaculture was starting to take off amid the collapse of traditional wild oystering in Apalachicola where the world-renowned industry had been decimated by environmental woes, overharvesting, hurricanes and the infamous Georgia-Florida water war over control of the Apalachicola River basin. After initial success, Gregg was faced with almost immediate adversity. Hurricane Michael wiped out his
— LOCATION — SPRING CREEK
—INSTAGRAM — @PELICANOYSTERCO pelicanoyster.com
“He is extremely determined,” says Katie Harris, co-owner of Full Earth Farm, a Certified Naturally Grown farm in Quincy, and Gregg’s friend of about a decade. “He’s a smart farmer and business person and (is) extremely charismatic,” she says, though it wouldn’t mean much if his oysters didn’t deliver. “I’ve had oysters where—I don’t know, they taste like sea boogers,” Harris continues. “I get why people don’t like this stuff. It’s really a weird texture and, if it’s not amazing, why would you? His are so good!”
Pelican Oyster Co. offers two different types of oysters. There are Salty Birds, which
Above: Since founding Pelican Oyster Co. in 2018, Cainnon Gregg has overcome adversity, including Hurricane Michael, the COVID-19 pandemic and Hurricane Helene in September.
ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND
are smaller “boutique” oysters, with 2.5 inch shells, and there are Big Gulps. “Big Gulps are my Old Florida oyster,” Gregg says. “I wanted to grow an oyster that was more like the oyster I grew up with. My dad was in the Navy (and) my mom was in the Marines, so I grew up hanging out in Mayport. But we were probably eating Gulf oysters.” Gregg farms in the same water basin as those legendary Apalachicola oysters. “A lot of people tell us they taste like what they remember. We’re 60 miles from Apalachicola. It has that pluff-like taste to it that I think is beautiful.”
that reeks intoxicatingly of decay and rebirth.
“When you take care of animals or plants, it’s called husbandry,” Gregg explains. “And the husbandry is what will make the flavor cleaner and maybe more pure. If you let your oysters stay dirty and grimy, then you’re going to get a little more mud and algae in that
Of course, I said I could do it, but I’d never really done it before.
—Cainnon Gregg
And by pluff, he means pluff mud—a term specific to the salt marshes of South Carolina Lowcountry, that can also refer more broadly to the dark brown, sucking glop of grassy estuaries where oysters flour-
oyster. You keep them super clean, you’re going to get a little more of that ocean taste. I’m probably somewhere in between. I think that you can’t really change the flavor, but you can change the quality. So oysters are going to taste like whatever the ocean tastes like.”
The term he uses to describe “that ocean taste” is merroir. It’s similar to the French term terroir, which describes the flavor imparted to wine from the environment in which the grapes are grown. Swap out the root “terre” (earth) for “mer” (sea), and the same concept applies to oysters. “I like to say that they’re almost wild. I try to keep them a little less uniformed and let them get kind of weird,” says Gregg, who grows his Salty Birds and Big Gulps in separate sections of his leased parcel of Oyster Bay. “A lot of the oysters from our area are grown in pretty close proximity, but we’ll see them on menus right next to each other with entirely different tasting notes. My little acre and a half of water tastes different because of whatever’s going on there.”
Ironically, even as Gregg strives to recapture the delicate balance of salinity and sweetness
Pelican Oyster Co. offers two different oysters: Salty Birds, a smaller “boutique” variety, and Big Gulps, which Gregg calls his “Old Florida oyster.”
that made a legend of the Apalachicola oyster, most of Pelican Oyster Co.’s business is out of state. “Florida has so much ocean that we are used to very cheap seafood,” he says. “But Florida doesn’t get to eat its own seafood.” Instead, Gregg argues, the best stuff is exported while the home market relies on cheaper (and ecologically damaging) harvests from other states. “I touch every oyster that I’m growing. Every oyster that I sell somebody is an oyster I planted, which means that another oyster got to stay in the wild.” He praises the example of clients like Jacksonville’s Chancho King, an Ecuadorian diner that serves Pelican oysters and relies on local sources for its fish and pork.
“The funny thing is, if we (all) were doing that, the price would probably go down and become more affordable, right?” he says.
This fall, Gregg plans to step up his direct sale business with bags of 100 Birds or Gulps available for $100 a pop (plus overnight shipping if local pickup isn’t an option) and continue to begin defining the Gulf Coast oyster in his merroir image. “I do it different than anybody in our area,” he says. “There’s no right or wrong way. In 20 years, there’s going to be a standard operating procedure, kind of like when you drive through south Georgia and every cotton farm looks exactly the same. We’re still figuring it out.”
Turns out, Gregg’s youthful adventures on the Jacksonville music scene may have offered a pretty accurate forecast of his adult endeavors, after all.
“What I think about a lot is that punk music and skateboarding, that DIY attitude and the creativity that comes with those two cultures, have led me and served me on all these different paths I’ve ever been on,” he says. “Because I got really into wheatpasting posters and stuff like that. I learned how to do large-format art, which helped me land a job as an artist. Being creative and learning how to work with what you got is how I figured out how to oyster farm. People are always like, ‘How did you figure out all this stuff?’ Well, I didn’t let anybody tell me no.”
Chancho King Grilled Buttered Oysters
By Chason Spencer and Maria Delia La Mota Guerra
Serves 4 to 6
OYSTER BUTTER
8 ounces butter
1 ounce garlic cloves, minced
1 ounce kosher salt
1/2 ounce fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 ounce fresh cilantro, chopped
1/2 ounce scallions, chopped
1/4 ounce coriander seeds, ground
1/2 lime, juiced
PREPARATION: Heat all ingredients on stove on low heat, careful not to overheat and boil the butter. This will separate the milk fat solids from the butter. If using an induction cooktop, set temperature to 180 degrees and heat until butter is melted. Once melted, reduce heat to 160 degrees and let the ingredients macerate for 10 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Strain butter mixture through a mesh strainer. When done correctly, the butter is creamy and the herbs aren’t overcooked or bitter. Reserve at room temperature if using right away or refrigerate for future use.
OYSTERS
1-2 dozen Pelican Oyster Co. Salty Bird oysters
PREPARATION: Roast Salty Bird oysters with the top shell still on over an open fire or on a closed grill. Once oyster liquor starts boiling out of the sides (typically takes under 2 minutes), remove from heat and set aside. Using an oyster knife, shuck the oyster by inserting the knife near the hinge, release the top shell and discard. Drizzle warm oyster butter on top of the Salty Bird oysters and enjoy.
This page: The term Gregg uses to describe “that ocean taste” is merroir, similar to the French word terroir, which describes the flavor imparted to wine from the soil in which the grapes are grown, swapping out the root “terre” (earth) for “mer” (sea).
ON THE FLY :BIRD’S-EYE VIEW A
GUIDE TO OUR FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOODS
By Emilee Perdue • Illustration by Leslie Chalfont
FAlling in Love
Favorite fishing spots, art galleries,
01. A. E. BACKUS MUSEUM & GALLERY
An anchor of Treasure Coast culture since 1960, this museum and gallery hosts an array of original Backus landscapes, plus a select few works from the Florida Highwaymen. 500 N. Indian River Drive
02. MANATEE OBSERVATION AND EDUCATION CENTER
This environmental education center helps the community get to know Florida’s favorite aquatic mammal on a new level. Learn about the threatened species and say hello up close on the observation deck.
480 N. Indian River Drive
03. SUNRISE THEATRE
After opening its doors in 1923, this theater has seen its fair share of rock-and-roll legends and stars. The venue underwent a renovation aimed at preserving its original glamour in 2006 and now offers 100 shows, plays and events annually.
117 S. Second St
04. MELODY LANE FISHING PIER
Drop a line with locals at the go-to fishermen’s hangout and find out why Fort Pierce is named the Sunrise City. Reel in drum, bluefish, snook and trout against pink and orange skies.
Melody Lane and Boston Avenue
05. FORT PIERCE CITY MARINA
Though it originally opened in 1937, this town treasure is nothing short of hot and happening. Dock your prized vessel, visit the on-site bait-and-tackle shop, meander into the heart of downtown or stop by the Saturday farmers market next door.
1 Avenue A
06. FORT PIERCE INLET STATE PARK
Once the training grounds for the World War II Navy Frogmen, this serene stretch of beach is now home to surfers, birdwatchers, scuba divers and sunbathers. Kayak through the inlet, hike the Coastal Hammock Trail and spot sea turtles making their nests. 905 Shorewinds Drive
07. ST. LUCIE CULTURAL ALLIANCE AT THE VAULT
This edgy art space offers classes of all modes and means, like acrylic and oil painting lessons, decorative tile workshops and a concert series, plus local art exhibitions. 111 Orange Ave.
08. SAILFISH BREWING COMPANY
With more than 18 taps, fresh ale flows at this locally-owned-and-operated brewhouse. Order a pint of one of their core beers like Sunrise City, an India pale ale; White Marlin, a witbier; or Tag & Release, an American amber ale, all brewed in-house.
130 N. Second St.
09. NELSON FAMILY FARMS
In 1938, Alfred and Hilda Nelson started to sell citrus directly from their home. Now, their family operation is one of the largest open-air markets in the area, selling fresh fruits and vegetables, gourmet products, garden supplies and a range of flora.
875 W. Midway Road
with Fort PiercE
state parks and more in Sunrise City
10. PIERCED CIDERWORKS
Located in a 117-year-old building in what was formerly known as the Fishing Village, this cider brewery brings the flavor to downtown. Try their house-made pours, such as peach habanero, ‘Merica Dry and orange creamsicle. 411 N. Second St.
11. OLD FLORIDA COFFEE CO.
Grab a Floridaccino at this coffee shop located in the P.P. Cobb Building, a trading post built in the nineteenth century. Order espressos and crepes, such as the Cracker Trail crepe, made with scrambled eggs, bacon, smoked sausage and drizzled with maple syrup. 100 Avenue A
12. BLIND CREEK BEACH
Toss all your cares—and your clothes—to the wind and get some sun without the tan lines at St. Lucie County’s only clothingoptional beach. This secluded mile-anda-half stretch of coastline is also home to green and loggerhead sea turtles during nesting season. 5460 S. Ocean Drive
13. HAVANA GEORGE CAFE
Owners George and Zaida Quesada wanted to share the flavors of their home countries, Cuba and Peru, with Cubanos, cortaditos and guava pastries, and ended up with one of the best Hispanic eateries on the Treasure Coast. 100 S. Second St.
14. THE FORT STEAKHOUSE
Just across from the Sunrise Theatre is a modern-style steakhouse serving up grilled bone marrow, sturgeon caviar, calamari steak and more. Murals by local artists decorate the interior, and photos of Adams Ranch, where they source their beef, adorn the walls. 106 S. Second St.
15. HEATHCOTE BOTANICAL GARDENS
Stroll along a winding path under palms and cycads, past the reflection pond and through the butterfly garden at this green oasis. Pause at the James J. Smith Bonsai Gallery, featuring over 100 trees. 210 Savannah Road
16 THE HIGHWAYMEN HERITAGE TRAIL
Visit the significant stops for the Florida Highwaymen. See the artists’ homes, hangouts, resting places and artworks while learning more about the troupe’s history. 482 N. Indian River Drive
17. JETTY PARK
Settle down on your own swath of sand for a sunny beach day at this park, wedged between Fort Pierce Inlet State Park and Hutchinson Island. Hit the rocks in the morning with rods and reels at the ready to fish for sheepshead, snapper and ladyfish. 2098 Seaway Drive
18. THE NATIONAL NAVY UDT-SEAL MUSEUM
As the only center completely dedicated to honoring Navy SEALs and Frogmen, the museum offers a closer look at antique weapons, retired aircraft and a 52-plus ton boat used by the Navy.
3300 N. Highway A1A
This spread from left: The National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum, Melody Lane Fishing Pier, Nelson Family Farms, Sunrise Theatre, Manatee Observation and Education Center, A. E. Backus Museum & Gallery
ON THE FLY: FLORIDA WILD
PHOTOGRAPHS & FIELD NOTES
By Carlton Ward Jr.
Born to Burn
In this photo, fire worker Char’Rese Finney uses a drip torch to light a controlled burn at The Nature Conservancy’s Disney Wilderness Preserve, an important conservation and restoration area in the Everglades Headwaters National Wildlife Refuge. I was excited to spend a day with Finney and her other all-female fire crew members from land trusts and government agencies throughout Florida. While a team of women burning the woods was a strong story on its own, my motivation was also from the perspective of showcasing how fire is important for maintaining and restoring wildlife habitats.
NOTES
— HABITAT— THE NATURE CONSERVANCY’S DISNEY WILDERNESS PRESERVE
I arrived at this controlled burn through advocating for the protection of the Florida Wildlife Corridor. For my work with Wildpath and the Path of the Panther project, I had been focusing on the Florida panther as an ambassador for conserving a connected network of wildlife habitat from the Everglades north to Georgia and west to Alabama. In addition to needing more wild lands and ranches to be protected from development, Florida’s wildlife also needs existing conservation lands to be managed to ensure the best quality habitat.
— SEASON — SPRING
— TIME OF DAY — 11:40 A.M.
— SUBJECT — CONTROLLED BURNS
That’s where fire comes in. Florida’s uplands were born to burn, especially pine forests in savannas. Surrounded by oceans and baking in subtropical sunlight, Florida has the moisture and heat engine to be one of the thunderstorm capitals of the world. These conditions bring frequent cloud to ground lightning—a powerful fire starter. As a result, over millennia, most of Florida’s pinelands have naturally caught fire every one to five years. These fires often start in the late spring or early summer when the rain and lightning season would begin and the sandy soils were still dry enough for foliage to ignite and carry flames for miles. Fire is a natural process in Florida and prescribed burns, like the one Finney and her crew are managing, emulate historic patterns for the subtropical savannas. When the vegetation grows back, wildlife like Florida’s endangered grasshopper sparrow living in the habitat thrive in the short new growth. Longleaf pine ecosystems can support as much species diversity as tropical rain forests and are important stepping stones in the northward recovery of the endangered Florida panther.
After this burn, the first thing I did when I got home was share photos with my daughters. The fire crew had assembled from all over the state, from as far away as the Florida Panhandle and down to the Florida Keys and had executed a textbook perfect burn of a few hundred acres of restored longleaf pine and wiregrass savanna. As people have moved to Florida by the millions and the resulting pressure of climate change has never been more evident in our state, I am thankful for these land managers who care for a valuable piece of the Florida Wildlife Corridor and protect the Everglades Headwaters from overdevelopment.
28°6’55.926” N 81°26’10.68” W
ALL THINGS VINTAGE
By Nan Kavanaugh • Photography by Kristen Penoyer
Tampa’s Treasure Trove FLORIDIANA
A food writer reflects on the staying power of this historic community cookbook.
Whenever my husband enters a used bookstore, he asks the clerk where to find the cookbooks. An executive chef for three decades and a restaurateur for the past two, he owns a cookbook collection pushing 400 tomes. It isn’t first editions by masters that he seeks, but rather The Junior League cookbooks. He will tell you that there is nothing junior about a Junior League cookbook. They are troves of the best recipes of any locale. From a chef’s perspective, they provide a true glimpse into the essence of a region’s food culture.
Today there are more than 23 Junior Leagues in Florida, but only one league cookbook has garnered national fame. “The Gasparilla Cookbook: Favorite Florida West Coast Recipes” published by The Junior League of Tampa in 1961 has sold over a quarter of a million copies and has been reprinted more
than 20 times. Self-described as a “treasure map of good eating,” the book celebrates family recipes from Tarpon Springs down the coast to Boca Grande. It’s a cookbook my grandmother, a third-generation Floridian, gifted to my aunt in 1965 and to my mother, her daughter-in-law, in 1979. Today it sits on my shelf too.
Named for the famous pirate José Gaspar, the namesake of the Gasparilla Pirate Festival, Tampa’s original carnival hosted annually since 1904, the hardcover cookbook holds over 700 recipes. It’s just as much a manual of cookery as it is a history of place. Illustrations by legendary cartoonist Lamar Sparkman of the Tampa Times and Tampa Tribune are peppered throughout. With a hooped-earring swashbuckler on the cover, the book is divided into 22 chapters, each opening with an essay delving into the bounty of Florida’s farmland, sea fare and people who migrated from all over the world to the Sunshine State. The
cuisine runs the gamut from tiropita (cheese pie) to kingfish salad to iconic recipes like Pink Elephant sauteed shrimp from the Pink Elephant restaurant in Boca Grande to filet steak salteado from the Columbia Restaurant in Tampa. Not to be outdone, the desserts are just as impressive, featuring sweets like Sunshine Island cake, the second prize winner of the second All-Florida Orange Dessert Contest. Among the 700 recipes, there’s one constant ingredient: diversity. The people of Tampa in the ’60s reflected the melting pot of immigrants that still make Florida one of the most culturally vibrant states in the nation. If new Florida wants to unlock the secrets of Old Florida, this cookbook is a good place to start. Because, in the words of its many authors, “The food of a land tells the life of its people, and we would like to share our good life with everyone.”
Above “The Gasparilla Cookbook: Favorite Florida West Coast Recipes” was first published by The Junior League of Tampa in 1961.
