— winter 201 6 /201 7 —
CONTENTS
F E AT U R E S
36
48
58
68
78
SEVENTEEN SUNDAYS
FORGOTTEN MERMAIDS
CUBA CONFIDENTIAL
BEAUTY AND THE FEAST
THE ROD AND GIRL CLUB
BY CRAIG PITTMAN
B Y T E R R Y WA R D
B Y S A R A H S T E WA R T
B Y K AT I E H E N D R I C K
Controversy stirs over whether or not these gentle giants should still be protected as an endangered species.
Journey off the beaten path on the enigmatic island before it loses its mystique and becomes fully discovered by tourists.
Alfresco high-end dinners taking place in Florida’s hinterlands combine freshly harvested ingredients with culinary brilliance.
Four saltwater afficionados embark on an adventuresome girls’ weekend of lobstering, fishing and friendship in the Keys.
BY CHRISTINA CUSH AND JAMIE RICH
The inside scoop on Florida polo season and a candid interview with high-goal player, Brandon Phillips.
Cover Photography by MARY BETH KOETH Brandon Phillips leads Honey Badger, one of his polo ponies, out of the barn at Postage Stamp Farm in Wellington.
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D E PA R T M E N TS
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33
91
WADING IN
COLUMNS
ON THE FLY
14 /// COQUINA: Shore things from
our waterways
15 /// THE SLICE: A noteworthy numerical
take on our state
16/// FLAMINGLE: A flock of fascinating
Floridians you need to know
19 /// THE SPREAD: Florida-fresh bites and bevs 22 /// M ADE IN FLA: Homegrown products,
designers and shops
27 /// F LEDGLINGS: Up-and-coming musicians
to follow and their playlists
29 /// J UST HATCHED: Openings around
the state
33 /// CAPITAL DAME: Diane Roberts
takes a holy rolling ride through Florida’s wacky attractions of yesteryear and today.
88 /// MY FLORIDA: Author Tim
Dorsey looks back on the legend of reclusive wildman Trapper Nelson.
102 /// F LORIDA WILD:
Carlton Ward Jr. debuts his photo column with a complicated angle on the reef at Loggerhead Key in Dry Tortugas.
93 /// PLUME: Author recommended
must-reads
94 /// CULTURE: Commentary on travel,
music and more
96 /// BIRD’S EYE: A walking guide to our
favorite neighborhoods
97 /// G ROVE STAND: Seasonal recipes
and chef profiles
105 /// THE ROOST: Regional real estate
comparisons
108 /// THE TIDE: Road-trip-worthy events 112 /// FLORIDIANA: All things vintage Florida
WINTER 2016
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Uniquely grown in its native forest environment, Guayaki Yerba Mate is cherished as a sacred beverage. Reach deep into yerba mate culture and you’ll discover people have long gathered to imbibe mate to awaken the mind, perform extraordinary feats and to exchange confidences. Even Yari, the mythical goddess of mate decrees it the symbol of friendship. Guayakí’s 2020 mission is to steward and restore 200,000 acres of South American Atlantic rainforest and create over 1,000 living wage jobs.
EDITOR’S NOTE
IT
started off as just another Wednesday morning. Hurricane Matthew swirled out in the Atlantic, but inside the Flamingo offices, brains were storming, writing headlines and editing copy, paying no mind to the tropical cyclone headed for Florida. We had blown off earlier reports because our area had not been hit by a serious hurricane in more than 50 years. Then a text message from a friend popped up on my phone: “Are you evacuating?” A little extreme, I thought, and kept sipping my coffee. Then a push notification came through that area schools were cancelled for the next two days. But a few weeks earlier, schools had been canceled for a hurricane, and it didn’t even rain at our house. This time would be no different—or so I thought. That afternoon, as the winds picked up, so did the warnings from rain-jacket-clad local officials: “leave now!” Words like “catastrophic,” “100-year storm” and “deadly” were zipping across the internet. One weatherman choked up on air during his plea for people to leave. Rightly, we decided to fly the coop, situated off of A1A, one mile west of the Atlantic Ocean. We quickly unplugged the computers, stacked boxes of our first three issues on top of desks and rolled up our favorite zebra rug. Then two other editors and I hugged and promised to keep each other posted on our plans for evacuation. We closed the door to the “Roost,” as we call it, and went to tend to our families and houses and leave the beach, not knowing what we would find when we returned a couple of days later. The whole state tuned in to watch weather reports, as Matthew made his way up the coastline, wreaking havoc along the way before unleashing most of his force on the beaches and towns north of Daytona
and even washing away portions of A1A near Flagler Beach. Matthew surprised and spared us by veering a few harrowing miles offshore. Most of us made it through the storm unscathed, with little more than yard debris to clean up. But many of our neighbors to the north and south, including one of our contributors, lost homes to the rising waters of the Atlantic and the Intracoastal. The wrath of Matthew, not to mention Hermine earlier this year, reminds us that just as Mother Nature gives, she takes away. As much as she hurts, she also helps. And Floridians know better than anyone how to rebound, reconnect and reopen our doors to neighbors and visitors after the storm clouds have cleared. Our winter issue celebrates the greatness of the Florida outdoors, from lobstering and fishing in the Keys to dining on farms in the countryside, saving the manatees in Crystal River and kicking up dust on the polo fields of Wellington. In this issue, we also introduce two new departments: Florida Wild, a photography column by Carlton Ward Jr., a National Geographic Explorer, who captures moving images deep in the Florida wilderness; and Fledglings, a showcase for up-and-coming musicians and their curated playlists. With hurricane season officially behind us, the sun on our faces and that slight winter chill in the air (or a balmy 70-degree ocean breeze in Miami), we dedicate this issue to Florida and all her natural splendor.
Editor in Ch ief & Pub lishe r
let us know what you think. Email us at editor@flamingomag.com
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PHOTOGR APHY BY INGRID DAMIANI; ST YLING BY ALIX ROBINSON
bring on the sunshine
AUTHENTIC
INTU ITIVE
A LW AY S I N Y O U R E L E M E N T â„¢
O N E O C E A N B O U L E V A R D | AT L A N T I C B E A C H , F L O R I D A 3 2 2 3 3 ( 9 0 4 ) 2 4 9 - 74 0 2 | W W W . O N E O C E A N R E S O R T. C O M
ISSUE
FLAMBOYANCE
4
By Floridians. For Floridians.
O UR FLO C K H AS S P OKEN
• FOUNDED IN 2016 •
— w i n t e r 20 1 6/20 1 7 — [on Tedeschi Trucks Band] Awesome musicians who still make their home in Jax. I saw Derek at his son’s baseball game. They played my son’s team a couple of years ago. Very humble and down to earth, much like the Van Zants, who also live here. Musa
My friends have put up with me going on and on about JJ Grey…this interview is an awesome insight to why he and his music are so loved! We went to Buckingham Blues Bar to see the show! St Augustine too… Twice! Once in a cane field and the other by the Bridge of Lions.
Farmand, Jacksonville
Kevin Howell, Winter Park
Reading the fall issue during air travel today; excellent edition! Thank you! Margaret Gnann Platt, Pace
Jo Clark, London, U.K.
Hillary Lake, Chicago, IL
Executive Editor Christina Boyle Cush christina@flamingomag.com Consulting Creative Director Holly Keeperman h o lly @ f l a m i n g o m ag.com
Judy Blume! I lived on her books when I was growing up… ‘Are you there God? It’s me, Margaret.’ Love it… Everyone I knew had read that book.
Congratulations!! That was the first issue I bought while visiting family in Jacksonville. Now I am thinking of moving down to Ponte Vedra! Love this magazine and Florida!!
Editor in Chief, Publisher, Founder JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com
Fantastic article on JJ Grey!! Having seen him in concert several times and loving his take on life in general, I thought your article uncovered the true man behind the soul who’s loving every minute he lives! Kimberly Adkins Bolton, Corbin, Kentucky
”There was Grey Goose, now there’s Pink Flamingo™ - the vodka that comes in a keepsake plastic bottle. Enjoy Responsibly (unlike Janice and Carol from Accounting)” @philip_herold
Senior Designer Ellen Patch e ll e n @ f l a m i n g o m ag.com Contributing Associate Editor Katie Hendrick kati e @ f l a m i n g o m ag.com Cont ributin g Writers Jane Bianchi, Tim Dorsey, Vanessa Garcia, Robin Hartill, Victor Maze, Brad Meltzer, Craig Pittman, Laura Reiley, Diane Roberts, Sarah Stewart, Terry Ward Contributing Photographers & Illustrators Jenny Adler, Leslie Chalfont, Beth Gilbert, Mary Beth Koeth, Stephen Lomazzo, Jessie Preza, Jack Spellman, Carlton Ward Jr., Terry Ward Copy Editors & Fact Checkers Brett Greene, Marcy Lovitch, Katherine Shy Social Media Christina Clifford I n t e r n : Kelsey Magennis
I just bought my first copy of Flamingo Magazine mostly to read Prissy Elrod’s story of our shenanigans (I’m the sister and partner in crime). What a beautiful and interesting magazine. I’ve read every word cover to cover and will now order the subscription. Thank you! Deborah Landrum Hook, Tallahassee
Baelea Bains says, “Mama’s got a new obsession and subscription!” The SunShineLife is in love with the Flamingo Mag! @thesunshinelife
Letters to the editor Wonderful article on Derek Trucks and Susan Tedeschi! They are two of the most deeply caring, immensely talented and utterly kind and genuine people on the planet. Fabulous job of having them explain how their home state of Florida influences their music and their lives and what it’s like to tour the world creating amazing songs with their peers and jamming with their heroes. I was quite enthused to see an interviewer get on their level!
Having lived in Florida for 50 yrs. (Key West, North Port, Ocala), it is exciting to read and recognize familiar locations and subject matter, while at the same time, be introduced to new & wondrous locations/events in the beautiful state of Florida. Thank you,
Stuart Raper, New Orleans, LA
Pat Stanley, Ocala
Advertising Sales Janet Hynes, janet@flamingomag.com Mel Intemann, mel@flamingomag.com Manny Mejido, mannymejido@gmail.com Tiffany Goddard Snyder, tiffany@flamingomag.com Sonia Thomasino, sonia@flamingomag.com General inquiries: ads@flamingomag.com Contact Us Phone: (904) 395-3272 Email: info@flamingomag.com TO GET A YEARLY SUBSCRIPTION (4 issues) go to flamingomag.com or send a $30 check made out to JSR Media, P.O. Box 3253, Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32004-0018. All content in this publication, including but not limited to text, photos and graphics, is the sole property of and copyrighted by JSR Media and Flamingo. Reproduction without permission from the publisher is prohibited. We take no responsibility for images or content provided by our advertisers.
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C
writing excellence • 2016 •
A Z I N E • AS AG SO
AWARD WINNER
•M
— CHARLIE —
CONTRIBUTORS MARY BETH KOETH
BRAD MELTZER has
had more than a dozen titles on bestseller lists in a staggering number of categories, including fiction, non-fiction, children’s books and graphic novels. He is best known for his political thrillers, including The Inner Circle, The Book of Fate and The President’s Shadow. In addition, he co-created the television series “Jack and Bobby” and currently hosts “Brad Meltzer’s Lost History” on H2 and “Brad Meltzer’s Decoded” on the History Channel. The Hollywood Reporter named him one of Hollywood’s “25 most influential writers.” Meltzer lives in Miami with his wife and kids, but Flamingo’s editors first met up with him at a book signing in Jacksonville earlier this year.
launched her career as a designer for Hallmark, first in the U.S. and then in the United Kingdom, where she spent her weekends traveling Europe with a camera in hand. Her pastime led to a career change. She studied photography at the Miami Ad School and apprenticed in Norway and Los Angeles before branching out on her own. These days, she roosts in Miami Beach, a city rife with visual candy for her to capture. Her work has appeared in Southwest Airlines Spirit Magazine and Vogue Italy, among others, and has won numerous awards. Mary Beth dodged a hurricane and a nasty rain storm to nail her assignments for us, including two features and a cover, and still managed to keep a big smile on her face. This is the first time her work has appeared in Flamingo.
CARLTON WARD JR. is
VANESSA GARCIA is a multidisciplinary
artist working as a novelist, playwright and journalist. Her debut novel, White Light, was named one of the best books of 2015 by NPR, Flavorwire and numerous other publications. Her plays have been produced in cities around the world, including New York, Miami and Edinburgh, and her editorial work has appeared in the LA Times, The Miami Herald, The Washington Post and The Rumpus. She’s currently in the process of completing a memoir entitled My Cuban Routes. Garcia is a first-time contributor to Flamingo but not a first-time patron of Hoy Como Ayer, which was highlighted in our Fall 2016 issue.
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an eighthgeneration Floridian devoted to keeping Florida wild. The outdoors activist frequently contributes photography and writing to Audubon, Smithsonian Magazine and National Geographic. He has authored three awardwinning pictorial books: The Edge of Africa, Florida Cowboys and Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition, the last of which earned him a place among National Geographic’s “Explorers.” He was also the Explorers Club’s 2015 Rolex Artist-in-Exploration. His home gallery is in Tampa. Carlton’s first call with us occurred while he was driving back into the wilderness, far from cell towers. This is his debut contribution to Flamingo.
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(904) 285.6927 2 8 0 P O N T E V E D R A B LV D , PONTE VEDRA BEACH, FL 32082
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2017
— f lor idians, far e, f inds —
WADING IN — COQUINA —
A n c i e n t A r t i f a c t s Wa s h e d A s h o r e
— THE SLICE —
A N u m e r i c a l Ta k e o n t h e S t a t e
— FLAMINGLE —
A Flock of Fascinating Floridians
— THE SPREAD —
Pirate-Approved Party Fare
— MADE IN FLA — Earthy Designers
— FLEDGLINGS —
Up and Coming Artists to Follow
— JUST HATCHED — PHOTOGR APHY BY JESSIE PREZA
Openings and Reboots of Note
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WADING IN :COQUINA
Top: (left to right) Fossilized horse tooth; tapir, tortoise shell fragment
SH O RE TH INGS F R OM OUR WATERWAYS
Below: A glimpse of a very impressive collection of 15,000 shark teeth
B y Vi ct o r M a ze
TOOTHY Treasures Make no bones about it: Our beaches abound with artifacts, from creatures that lived millions of years ago
FOUND
2002
S
“The fossils that people find on the beach often came from land animals during the Ice Age,” Hulbert says. Today, the first few miles of ocean cover what once was land, where all sorts of animals roamed. These animals’ remains now lie in sedimentary beds offshore, washing up over time through erosion caused by rough surf, thunderstorms and dredging. Although fossils decorate beaches and riverbeds throughout the state, certain communities have a higher concentration of them, Hulbert says. Venice, on the Gulf Coast,
is a standout for shark teeth, which can be millions of years old. On the East Coast, the beaches south of Jacksonville, particularly at Ponte Vedra and St. Augustine, are also fossil hot spots. Over the last 14 years, Bermudez has amassed a collection that includes more than 15,000 shark teeth, which she displays in glass bowls on her coffee table. “I bring a few shark teeth with me everywhere I go and leave them as little gifts for people,” she says. “It’s incredible what the ocean has to offer.”
Your beach finds could be in Flamingo Send pics & stories to info@flamingomag.com
PHOTOGR APHY BY JESSIE PREZA
hortly after moving to Ponte Vedra Beach in 2002, Jalene Bermudez noticed waves of beachcombers bent over, searching for something on the shore. “They were finding shark teeth,” Bermudez recalls. Intrigued, she started searching as well, although she soon realized that identifying the tiny teeth among the shells and sand was difficult. So a friend taught her what to look for. “There’s a science to finding them,” Bermudez says. “You have to train your eye, and it helps to have someone show you the shapes and
sizes, what the sun does to the teeth, and how they reflect light.” Bermudez’s passion flourished. Sometimes she found as many as 125 teeth in a prolonged search; other times, she spied different curiosities, which spurred her to contact the Florida Museum of Natural History. There, she connected with Dr. Richard C. Hulbert Jr., the museum’s Vertebrate Paleontology Collections Manager. He’s helped Bermudez identify shark teeth; fragments of teeth from prehistoric land mammals, such as mammoths, tapirs, and bison; and pieces of bones from whales, turtles, and a now-extinct giant armadillo.
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WADING IN :THE SLICE
A N OTE WO RT HY, NUMER ICAL TAKE ON OUR STATE
$120,000 TORTOISES When the state OK’d the $2.3 Billion project to widen 21 miles of Interstate 4, the gov’t anticipated that road workers would discover burrows with shelled critters— gopher tortoises. So far, they’ve found 60. The contractor is legally responsible for rescuing and relocating the endangered tortoises, at a price of $2,000 per critter, to upgrade them from roadkill roulette to the Alan Broussard Conservancy, a 4,000-acre sanctuary.
dates
63.4K
OUTDOORSY FOLLOWERS
We scoured Instagram to find follow-worthy, rapidly-growing Florida accounts
ILLUSTR ATION BY VEC TORSTOCK .COM
GRAYOUTDOORS (15.2K followers) Gabriel Gray, athletic adventurer, North Floridian, and river conservationist, shares nature snaps from the Everglades, the Apalachicola River and the springs.
ZEROEYE (33.6K followers) Mario and Sel Cisneros take sublime shots of their South Florida aquatic expeditions—in the Keys, through the Everglades, on the Miami River and near Sanibel Island.
7 flakey
FL_WILDCORRIDOR (14.6K followers) This non-profit posts snapshots from various Sunshine State shutterbugs who share this mission: to respect and protect 15.8 million acres of the Florida Wildlife Corridor.
2 NASTY SINKHOLES
In September, a sinkhole opened under a fertilizer plant in Mulberry (near Tampa), estimated to have a 110-footwide mouth and a depth of 220 feet. Though different in scope than the famous 1981 Winter Park pit, which was around 350 feet wide and 75 feet deep, Mulberry’s jumbo crater quickly earned a bad rap by leaking millions of gallons of contaminated water into Florida’s main aquifer. The Winter Park hole was infamous for gobbling five Porsches, a car repair shop, a three-bedroom home and part of an Olympic pool, amongst other neighborhood assets. Which ditch is worse?
WINTER 2016
•
Our tropical paradise, a winter wonderland?! The first recorded snow in Florida fell in 1774, but there are more recent snow moments to know: JAN. 19, 1977
Flakes fell on Miami Beach sand. DEC. 23, 1989
The first White Christmas in northeastern Florida. MAR. 12, 1993
The Storm of the Century spread four inches across the Panhandle. JAN. 8-9, 2010
Light snow made its way to West Palm Beach and Kendall. FEB. 12-14, 2010
An Alberta clipper dumped light fluff in the northwest. JAN. 28–29, 2014
A wintry mix pounded Tallahassee, closing parts of I-10.
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WADING IN :FLAMINGLE A FLO C K OF FASCINATING F LOR IDIANS
ECO ACHIEVERS These Floridians’ offices are in the great outdoors and their work is making waves across the globe
KELLY SLATER Surfer
Paddleboarder
After high school, this Florida Keys native traveled the globe for eight years as a professional yachtswoman before returning home in 2014 to pursue a career as a standup paddleboarder. She holds a Guinness World Record for paddling 110 miles in 24 hours and the title “Fastest Paddler on Earth” for winning a 200-meter time trial in Germany last summer. Channeling her passion into philanthropy, she lugged her board to South America and trekked across Lake Titicaca to raise funds for environmental education for Peruvian schoolchildren. When not journeying, Hattingh leads yoga and fitness classes—on paddleboards, of course.
JAMES BILLIE Former Chief
Since his childhood spent wrestling alligators for tourists, James Billie has led an extraordinary and controversial life. As chairman of the Seminole Tribe of Florida (1979– 2001 and 2011–2016), he launched the Indian gaming industry, hunted down cocaine pilots operating in the Everglades, established a museum of Seminole history and culture, and thwarted developers keen on touching Seminole land. Before he was voted out of office (after his second stretch), he filed a lawsuit against the state over new rules allowing more toxins in drinking water sources. The chief was also tried and acquitted for shooting and eating a Florida panther and produced two folk albums.
WENDY KISO, PH.D. Elephant Doc
Since it opened in Polk City in 1995, the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Center for Elephant Conservation, a 200-acre sanctuary for retired circus performers, has welcomed 26 bundles of joy. Expect that number to rise ever higher thanks to Dr. Wendy Kiso, who joined the team of researchers in 2011. Her groundbreaking work in semen biology and sperm cryopreservation helps endangered Asian elephants in facilities throughout the country reproduce with genetic diversity thanks to artificial insemination. She also contributed to a study that identified why elephants seldom develop cancer and is working with pediatric oncologists to determine how these findings might help human children.
JAMES POCHUREK Archaeologist
As the president of SEARCH, one of the world’s largest archaeology companies, this Jacksonvillian digs dirt. So much so that for 13 years, he and his family cultivated a 140-acre ranch in rural Citra, where he devised the Big Land Conservation Company. Through Big Land, James and 10 stewards pledge to buy 1,000,001 acres of remote lands, primarily in Florida, over ten years. Parcels will range from 75 acres to 50,000 acres, be situated about 100 miles from any major cities and have a few small environmentally-friendly cabins and barns built for owners to enjoy. Pochurek, also a photographer, helped develop an archaeology series airing soon on a major network.
ILLUSTR ATION BY STEPHEN LOMAZZO
Crowned World Surf League Champion a record 11 times, Kelly Slater is both the youngest and oldest person to win the prestigious competition. Born and raised in Cocoa Beach, he also made waves in Hollywood, appearing in several surf films and two seasons of “Baywatch.” These days, he uses his fame to protect our waterways. Outspoken about how human behavior impacts the oceans, he founded the Kelly Slater Foundation, which benefits marine and ecological causes. For his unprecedented achievements, the U.S. House of Representatives passed a resolution declaring him our country’s official surf ambassador.
SEYCHELLE HATTINGH
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History does repeat itself. 2016 marks the 6th time that we have been selected as a Barron’s Top 100 Independent Wealth Advisor. Most importantly, we are the only firm headquartered in Florida to make the list in 2015 and 2016.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMIAH STANLEY
For Floridians. By Floridians.
WADING IN :THE SPREAD FLOR IDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS
By Chri st i n a C u sh • P h o t o g ra p h y b y Jessi e P reza
Gasparilla Brunch Hit Parade ARRR.S.V.P. FOR PARTY INSPIRATION FROM TAMPA’S ANNUAL WINTER FÊTE
E
ach winter Tampa overflows with pirate-themed parades and revelers. Can’t get to The Big Guava this January 28th? We discovered a treasure-trove of Gasparilla social secrets from Andy Huse, a University of South Florida associate librarian and archivist. “The Tampa elite, around 1904, wanted a Mardi Gras, without the religion,” Huse explains. “They made up the story of a pirate named Jose Gaspar. The parade was a very exclusive event until around 1992.” Eventually, the Krewes (groups that build parade floats) became super inclusive, and Gasparilla has now far outgrown its original posh purpose.
This page: (Clockwise) Scrambled eggs; picadillo; guava tarts; picadillo on Cuban bread
WINTER 2016
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WADING IN :THE SPREAD FLO RIDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS
Huse drops anchor with friends in South guava tarts (from Ybor City’s La Segunda Tampa to take part in the day-long parties Central). His menu floats for a boatload of that punctuate the parade route around seasonal events calling for a feast, like New Bayshore Boulevard. At these house bashes, Year’s Brunch or the Super Bowl. he says, you’ll munch all Andy Huse shares his Tampaday on bbq, crawfish, black fied version of this Cuban LA SEGUNDA beans, grilled wings, mac ‘n “Sloppy Joe,” loaded with tangy CENTRAL BAKERY cheese, calzones, enchiladas olives, peppers, and garlic. He — LOCATION — and sciaciatta (Cuban pizza). incorporates olive brine to zip 2512 N. 15TH ST. YBOR CITY “Every hour something comes up the flavor profile and, with — HOURS — out of the kitchen,” Huse says. some raisins, adds just enough MON-FRI 6:30 A.M.–5 P.M. Like a good guest, he brings sweetness to balance the savory. SAT-SUN 7 A.M.–3 P.M. a big meal. “It’s a long day You can temper the spice factor by lasegundabakery.com of rum flowing, so I make a adding hot sauce or cayenne as it hearty breakfast,” Huse adds. cooks, keeping your merry mateys’ He feeds his ship of fools with a batch of preferences in mind. For brunch, raise the flag picadillo (made the night before) scrambles and fire the cannons: slice open some up two dozen eggs on site, and Cuban bread, spread on some picadillo, serves fresh Cuban and add a dollop of bread and scrambled eggs.
Gasparilla Picadillo S e rv e s a b i g g r o u p 6 pounds ground beef 5 tablespoons olive oil 2 large onions, diced 5 large bell peppers, seeded and diced 15 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 4 teaspoons dried oregano 18 bay leaves 3 teaspoons cumin 2 32-ounce cans whole peeled tomatoes, crushed and chopped 1 can crushed tomatoes 1 14-ounce jar of sliced pimento-stuffed olives 2 tablespoons olive brine (to taste) 2 3.5 ounce jars of capers, drained 1 1/2 cups raisins 3 tablespoons white vinegar 1 1/2 cups red wine, such as burgundy 1/2 cup ketchup 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons lime juice Hot sauce (to taste) Salt and black pepper (to taste) PREPARATION: Brown the meat, set it aside, and drain the remaining grease in the pot, leaving a bit to sauté the onions and peppers until soft. Add all the tomato products, garlic, and spices and cook for 2 minutes. Mix the meat back in and simmer for 5 minutes. Add capers, olives, raisins, wine, sugar and vinegar. Then partially cover and simmer for one hour. Adjust the flavor with cayenne, salt, pepper, hot sauce and the olive brine before serving.
Left: Gasparilla Picadillo
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WADING IN :THE SPREAD FLOR IDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS
Buccaneers’ BOOTY BOTTOMS UP WITH TWO RUM-BASED GASPARILLA REFRESHERS
Y PICADILLO PREPARED BY CHEF BRIAN MAHONE Y OF PONTE VEDR A BEACH; DRINKS PREPARED BY AND GR APEFRUIT SHRUB RECIPE FROM WILLIAM. J NICOL OF THE ICE PL ANT IN ST. AUGUSTINE; DRINK RECIPES COURTESY OF THE BRICKS YBOR IN TAMPA; FLOWERS BY CITRON OF JACKSONVILLE BEACH; PUNCH BOWL FROM SAILORS SIREN OF ATL ANTIC BEACH
o! Ho! Ho! And two bottles of rum, one blonde and one dark, to concoct these Gasparilla-themed drinks. Blow your hearties away with these jolly recipes featuring Papa’s Pilar—a fine spirit made in Florida by Ernest Hemingway’s son.
Winter in Florida
Sassparilla Punch
S e rv e s o n e
S e rv e s a b i g g r o u p
1 1/2 ounces Papa’s Pilar Blonde 1o unce pineapple juice 1o unce Coco Lopez 1/2 ounce lemon juice 1/2 ounce sugar 2 f resh strawberries
10 1/2 ounces Papa’s Pilar Dark 7o unces black tea, room temperature 5 1/4 ounces grapefruit shrub (recipe below) 3 1/2 ounces fresh lime juice 3 1/2 ounces orange blossom honey 1 3/4 ounces Root Liquor (or root beer syrup)
PREPARATION: Put all of the ingredients together in blender and add a scoop of ice, blending until smooth. Serve in a gold-tipped glass and garnish with a fresh strawberry half, pineapple leaves or other edible greenery (mint works).
PREPARATION: Mix all ingredients in a big pitcher and stir with a long spoon to fully blend. Put ice in a pretty punch bowl and pour the mix over it. Ladle out individual glassfuls. Garnish with a dehydrated grapefruit or a fresh lemon peel and a cinnamon stick.
GRAPEFRUIT SHRUB
1 peeled grapefruit, seeded and pith removed 3/4 cup apple cider vinegar 3/4 cup sugar in the raw
Right: Sassparilla Punch (Top and Bottom); Winter in Florida (Center)
PREPARATION: Add all ingredients together in a Mason jar, seal the lid, then vigorously shake until the sugar dissolves. Let the mix ferment for at least 24 hours, then strain the pulp. You can make it up to 14 days prior.
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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA SEA
boards & roses
An ode to the classics with this Northeast Florida surf brand
IN 2010,
Jacksonville native Justin Quintal burst onto the global surfing scene by winning the Vans Joel Tudor Duct Tape Invitational. He’s since racked up the accolades, including four longboard championships at the U.S. Open of Surfing; starred in a documentary in Iceland; and, in early 2016, ventured into the business side of the sport, producing longboards. Quintal bucked the trend
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of moving to California or Hawaii by founding Black Rose Manufacturing in the city where he honed his skills on the water and in the classroom. The University of North Florida graduate teamed up with Ricky Carroll, a craftsman with 40 years of experience and 40,000 boards under his belt. Carroll spends six to eight weeks shaping a board that resembles a style popular in the ’60s and ’70s. Black Rose boards
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feature Volan cloth, a wide weave fiberglass uncommon today that gives them heft; a customized deck and tail patch; and a sanded gloss finish. Designs are mellow with earth tones and dark stripes, a contrast to bubbly motifs associated with contemporary surf culture. “We want each board to work well in the water, but to also be something you could display on your wall,” Quintal says. blackrosemfg.com
PHOTOGR APHY BY LOGAN BOWLES, JENSEN HANDE, MADISON WEST
Above and right: Austin Allen surfing a Black Rose in Jacksonville Beach; the Trip Reaper model (left), a modern take on the 1967 Gordon and Smith HYII Model, and the Darkhorse model (right), a classic nose-rider Below: Justin Quintal in the shaping room
WADING IN :MADE IN FLA STR E ETS
Road Warriors PHOTOGR APHY BY ALICIA OSBORNE, WHITNE Y BORKOWSKI
BEFORE IT WAS HOME
Above, clockwise: A variety of bags for day trips and short jaunts; Convertible Commuter Pannier; the Southern Tier Randonneur Bag, for the commuter
to Florida’s state government and the Florida State Seminoles, Tallahassee was Anhaica, capital of the Apalachee tribe. It’s here that Marina Mertz hand stitches bicycle bags hardy enough to endure long rides in the rain but with a refined enough look for off the trail. A DIY-er with a penchant for sewing, Mertz embraced cycling while volunteering at a bike collective after college. Once
she became a distance rider, she identified an overlooked niche in the equipment. “I didn’t see my style reflected in any of the commercial offerings,” she says of the overtly atheletic fashions. In 2013, she launched Anhaica Bag Works,and has sold approximately 3,000 pieces. Her designs include clever details such as detachable straps that convert panniers into messenger bags.
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Crafted in Tally, wax-coated and versatile bike bags For protection from Florida showers, Mertz coats the canvas bags with beeswax. “They smell delicious, like fresh Tupelo honey,” she says. A nylon liner provides extra waterproofing. Mertz sends her products on a five-week bicycle tour to test their durability. The bags are sold online and in a handful of shops around the country, including Camp Folks, in Tallahassee. anhaicabagworks.com
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fossilized
This page: Cresta Bledsoe transforms
prehistoric material into structural, luxurious pieces.
FOR GENERATIONS, Cresta
Bledsoe’s in-laws have foraged for shark teeth on Ponte Vedra Beach. Upon first viewing their huge assemblage, she considered the fossils’ ancient history and how they conjure memories from the seashore. “They’re a connection to something bigger than you,” she says. That idea seared in her mind, she contemplated turning the natural material into
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something feminine and precious. In 2008, she started sketching concepts and two years later launched her eponymous line. Leaning on her training as an interior designer, Bledsoe envisions pieces that play with negative space, flatter the female form and accentuate each tooth’s shape. One of her master jewelers, based in Florida, is also a stonecutter and watchmaker; his diverse skillset helps Bledsoe
create accessories with singular appeal. Among her bestsellers: architectural cuffs, petite chokers, stacked rings and drop necklaces. While many luxury items involve poaching, Bledsoe’s fine jewelry stands out as a crueltyfree choice. “Shark teeth are just as rare and organic as ivory or fur,” she says. Collection sold in select boutiques, online and at private showings. crestabledsoe.com
PHOTOGR APHY BY KELSE Y MAGENNIS; CRESTA BLEDSOE FINE JEWELRY (LEFT TO RIGHT): 18-K FOLLIZED SHARK TOOTH WHITE DIAMOND PAVE TRIANGLE COCK TAIL RING, SHARK TOOTH WHITE DIAMOND PETIT CHOKER, 18K HINGED-LINK BLUE TOPAZ NECKL ACE. 18-K SHARK TOOTH WHITE DIAMOND STACK RINGS, 18-K SHARK TOOTH SAPPHIRE AND TURQUOISE CUFF, 18-K SHARK TOOTH WHITE DIAMOND PAVE SURROUND AND HUNGARIAN GREEN OPAL DROP EARRINGS, 18-K BL ACK DIAMOND ASYMMETRIC BAR L ARIAT NECKL ACE
Ancient shark teeth as jewels in a modern collection
WADING IN :MADE IN FLA B y Vi ct o r M a ze
Above: To stay rooted in their home state, Flomotion sponsors a handful of Florida-based brand ambassadors—artists, musicians, and athletes.
GO WITH THE FLO PHOTOGR APHY BY (THIS PAGE AND NEXT) JACKSON BERGER
Started in a Stetson University dorm, a cool clothing company celebrates sunny livin’
F
or many years, Florida lacked a mainstream clothing company that celebrated its unique lifestyle—flip flops in winter, year-round outdoor pursuits, and more beach to stroll than any other state. Big brands like PacSun and Hollister had extolled the virtues of California surf culture with great success, but when was it Florida’s turn to have its day in the sartorial sun? Starting in late 2009, Camiel Canters,
who’s been a Floridian since 2006, grappled with this question during discussions with a friend on frequent drives from Stetson University’s Deland campus to their favorite surf spot in New Smyrna Beach. “There are shops here in Florida that sell California flag stuff; why is there not a similar reverse effect?” they wondered. Eventually, from these conversations, the idea for Flomotion was born. Using his dorm room as the operations
hub, Canters built the company with three close Stetson friends. Each partner had a specialty, ranging from logistics to networking to graphic design. By 2011, they were selling t-shirts online and in a few small retail outlets, including surf and skate shops and resort boutiques. “Initially we focused on creating a brand that would support Florida athletes,” says Canters, now 29 and an avid surfer and fisherman. “Over time, we realized that
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locals and visitors took to our brand, and we started focusing on the Florida lifestyle all together.” Although it was cost prohibitive to manufacture the clothing locally, the team felt it was important to keep design and printing operations in Florida as much as possible, a practice the company still employs today. From the start, much of the brand’s charm grew from its visual simplicity, as evidenced by the graphic nature of its logo, which replaces the first “o” in Flomotion with a simple fresh-off-thetree orange. This iconic element makes an appearance in many of the company’s products, including an “I (orange) FL” t-shirt. Other bits of Florida iconography—sharks, gators, panthers and flamingos—
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are used on some of the company’s most Canters says the products sell best in popular products. Organic designs like coastal towns, from the Panhandle to Key palm leaves, waves and Native AmericanWest. T-shirts remain Flomotion’s bread and inspired patterns pop up throughout the butter, but more recent lines have included current collection. shorts, hats and swimwear. Canters does more than aesthetically “We’ve really tried to zone in on what appreciate Florida’s many natural our community wants from resources, he gives back to the state Flomotion,” Canters says. “It’s easy in meaningful ways. CommunityFLOMOTION to get carried away with a brand consciousness has been part of and want to grow fast, and in all — LOCATIONS — BC SURF & SPORT Flomotion’s DNA since they different directions.” FT. LAUDERDALE launched. Flomotion sponsors In 2015, the company, BUNULU several beach cleanups each year, headquartered in Jacksonville JACKSONVILLE, WEST PALM & ESTERO and also sells t-shirts with the Beach, retracted its efforts to grow RON JON SURF SHOP slogan “Support Local Fishermen.” outside of Florida, for the time COCOA BEACH & ORLANDO “That’s the community part that being. That business move has flomotion.com a lot of big brands forget about,” allowed them to focus on tripling Canters says. revenue from 2015 through the To stay rooted in end of 2016. their home state, Flomotion Although Canters is the only founding sponsors a handful of member still on staff, he says the best part Florida-based brand about owning Flomotion is embodying the ambassadors—artists, lifestyle it exalts. musicians, and athletes, like “The outdoors inspires everything we surfers Corey Howell and do,” he says. “We are lucky to live in a state Pat Nichols. where you can wear board shorts and a Although free-standing t-shirt year-round.” Flomotion stores may This page, clockwise from top: Trucker hat with be a possibility signature “orange” logo; lifestyle stickers; T-shirt in the future, with Florida design in shark teeth for now the apparel is sold online and in more than 100 retail locations throughout the state.
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WADINGIN IN::FLEDGLINGS FLEDGLINGS WADING FLOR IDA MUSICIANS ON THE R ISE FLO RIDA MUSICIANS ON THE R ISE B yB yx xCxhxri x st x xi n xa x xCxuxsh xxx
WE’RE JONES’N With their Florida-infused folk-indie-pop sound Laney Jones and the Spirits collect fans and critical acclaim across the country
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L
FLORIDA SONGS
aney Jones, a fresh-faced singer-songwriter from Orlando, discovered music as a creative outlet while studying business at Rollins College in 2009. Soon after, a scholarship to Berklee College of Music and an apprenticeship with record producer Kara DioGuardi catapulted her talent to the next level. Since then, the banjoplayer shared the stage with Alison Krauss and licensed her music to Disney-Pixar. The release of a self-titled album in early 2016 landed Jones on Rolling Stone’s “Top 10 New Country Artists You Need to Know.” Jones and her bandmates, the Spirits, have been crisscrossing the country, playing at folksy festivals (like High Sierra). When we caught up with Jones, she dished on her success, mentors, dream stages and goat-eating gators.
on Laney Jones’s Play List
1
“Show Me Love” by
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
“Chinese New Year” by Sales
“Sleeping Sideways” by
WHERE’D THE BAND NAME, “THE SPIRITS,” COME FROM?
LJ: What I like about the name “the Spirits” is its multiple meanings—ghosts, liquor, personalities. I’m learning and building who I am as an artist right before your eyes.
HOW DO YOU DESCRIBE THE BAND’S VIBE OR SOUND?
LJ: The sound is changing all the time. But at its core, the writing is honest, and the tone is soulful. I used to write folkand bluegrass-oriented music, and for a while I studied pop songwriting, but now I fall somewhere in between.
TELL US ABOUT THE GUYS IN THE BAND.
LJ: They are some rad fellows! The Spirits
Hundred Waters
Someday River
“She’s Fine, She’s Mine”
are Matthew Tonner, Tre Hester, and Brian Dowd. Matthew has been with me the longest and is my main collaborator. He’s really great at all the stuff I’m bad at, so it works out well. We all grew up in the Central Florida area and love basketball and pizza.
Bo’ Diddley
by
“What Would Tom Waits Do” by
Kaleigh Baker
“Long Way Back” by
Terri Binion
“Sun Go Down”
WHICH OF THE FLORIDA ARTISTS HAVE IMPACTED YOU THE MOST?
by Fat
LJ: Mark Johnson has been a huge mentor. He lives way out in a town called Dunnellon and is very accomplished in the banjo and bluegrass world. He’s worked with legends, including Steve Martin. I was looking for about a year to find someone to teach me how
WINTER 2016
Night
“Sittin’ on Top of The World” by
Austin Miller
“I Want That” by Good
Graeff
KC and 10 the Sunshine Band “Give It Up” by
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WADING IN :FLEDGLINGS FLO RIDA MUSICIANS ON THE R ISE
to play clawhammer. I couldn’t find any teachers in the Lake County or greater Orlando region. It turned out that one of the best players lived just 3 hours away, round trip. Today, I can say I play banjo the way I do because of him.
IS THERE A BIG STADIUM OR AMPHITHEATER YOU’D LIKE TO PLAY?
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE FLORIDA VENUE TO PLAY IN?
HOW DID THAT ROLLING STONE ARTICLE IMPACT YOU?
LJ: Will’s Pub. It’s a pseudo-dive bar, but it’s like “Cheers” to me. Musically speaking, I grew up at the shows there, and it’s nice to go where everyone knows your name. One real hidden gem in Florida is Fogartyville Community Media and Arts Center, in Sarasota. It’s put on by the local radio station, WSLR 96.5, and has the best sound and listening audiences of anywhere I’ve played in the state.
LJ: St. Augustine Amphitheatre. I’ve played there before, but only during the day for a small crowd. I would love to go back and play at night for a full stadium. LJ: The most tangible impact was all of my friends and acquaintances congratulating me, some of whom didn’t even know I did music until I shared the article, which was weird. My mom gave my latest album two thumbs up which is the most important review in my book.
HOW DOES IT FEEL TO COME BACK HOME TO FLORIDA AFTER A LONG TOUR?
LJ: Some people like dry, cool weather, but I am not one of those people. I lie on my parents’ driveway for 15 minutes,
and then I finally feel like I’m actually back at home.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE FLORIDA MUSIC SCENE?
LJ: I can only speak for Orlando, which has a history of pop divas and boy bands. It’s hard to shake that stigma, but today Orlando has a thriving music scene covering everything from punk to electronic to Americana, and it’s been a great hometown scene for me.
ARE ANY OF YOUR LYRICS OR SOUNDS INSPIRED BY FLORIDIAN EXPERIENCES?
LJ: I had a song on my first album about an alligator eating one of my goats on the Jones family farm. It’s a true story called “Midnight Snack.” To find out where Laney Jones and the Spirits are playing next, visit laney-jones.com
ILO
RS SIR
EN
SA
Salt air goods and gifts with a southern accent
Specializing in Florida, Southern and American made goods, Sailors Siren is your headquarters for entertaining, home and gift essentials. SAL
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T AIR GOODS
217 first street / Neptune Beach • in the beaches town center • sailorsiren.com
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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE B y K a t i e H en d ri ck
(NORTH) LUCKY GOAT COFFEE CO. • TA L LA H A S S E E •
On June 1, Lucky Goat Coffee branched out with a second location in Tallahassee’s Midtown neighborhood. The company roasts 20 coffees, from a mild, almond-flavored brew to an espresso with a slightly acidic, black-pepper kick. “You won’t find a lot of syrups here,” says retail manager Lindsey Sheets. “Our emphasis is on the beans.” Lucky Goat also specializes in Nitro cold-brewed coffee, sold by the cup or in a growler. With exposed brick and piping, the shop has a modern vibe. Take a break from the grind with a diverse crowd, including college study groups, companies hosting business meetings and people meeting for first dates. luckygoatcoffee.com
BURLINGAME
PHOTOGR APHY BY LOGAN BOWLES
•FERNANDINA BEACH•
In 2014, newly retired from the timber industry, Eric Fanelli signed up for a cooking class at the local Ritz-Carlton, where he had instant rapport with his teacher, Chad Livingston. Two years later, the two have collaborated with Burlingame, an elegant eatery in a 1947 cottage. Décor is minimal (namely large-format food photographs), putting the focus on Livingston’s menu, which rotates seasonally. “He has a knack for combining simple ingredients in the most interesting and beautiful ways,” Fanelli says. A customer favorite: pork tenderloin with barbecue sauce and blue cheese crumble, fingerling potatoes, and green beans and buttermilk dressing. We’re game! burlingamerestaurant.com
Above: Guest room at Hotel Palms, a refurbished, vintage motor court inn
NONA BLUE
•PONTE VEDRA BEACH•
An upscale tavern, co-owned by professional golfer Graeme McDowell, debuted in Sawgrass Village on September 14. McDowell’s flagship is on Lake Nona in Orlando. The new beach-town branch of Nona Blue is centered around its wood-fired grill. If you’re seated by the front, you’ll enjoy views of round-the-bar flat-screens playing the must-see sporting events of the day. The private dining room provides an intimate setting, while the open-air patio welcomes the social set. Popular menu items: mac & cheese with lobster and bacon, ahi tuna steak, fish and chips—and, for dessert, carrot cake. Select from 16 craft beers, an extensive wine list and
fun cocktails like “Cheaper than Therapy.” nonablue.com
HAMMOCK ORGANICS CAFÉ AND BOUTIQUE PA L M C O A S T
HOTEL PALMS
• AT LA N T I C B E A C H •
Palms Retro, a motor court inn built in 1947, underwent an extensive make-over, reemerging in October as the Hotel Palms. The reboot introduced clean and airy furnishings, such as reclaimed wood headboards and artwork made from palm tree bootjacks, while maintaining the hotel’s original concrete floors, which are dotted with coquina shells. Private courtyards, an outdoor shower and fireplace, a beer and wine lounge, and free beach cruiser and foam board rentals encourage guests to kick back. thehotelpalms.com
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Named for Palm Coast’s scenic stretch of oaks and palms, Hammock Organics Café and Boutique opened in late March. The establishment serves coffee, juices and homemade breakfast and lunch items, including their very popular lemon poppy muffins, curried chicken salad sandwiches and pan-seared grouper, in a relaxed environs complete with courtyard seating. Inside, you’ll find fresh fruits and vegetables for sale, along with other refrigerated items and dry goods, Florida artwork, and various household trinkets, such as Depression-era glass. hammockorganics.com
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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (C E N T RA L ) NJOY
MINI DOUGHNUT FACTORY
Inspired by her late father, who kept meticulous notes from his bootlegging days in 1940s Ireland and Scotland, Natalie Goff and her husband, Kevin, officially entered the distilling scene in 2014 but sold their first bottle in 2015. They’ve racked up several gold medals for their Wild Buck Rye Whiskey and Mermaid Rum at international spirits competitions. At NJoy Spirits, the Goffs do everything by hand, from growing grain for their whiskey to bottling the liquor. Their products appear in some of Florida’s most iconic establishments, including Bern’s Steak House in Tampa and The Breakers Resort in Palm Beach. They host monthly open houses at their operations, located in the middle of the Chassahowitzka Forest. wildbuckwhiskey.com
Anyone who’s ever decided to indulge with a doughnut can relate to the agony of choosing one that best pulls its caloric weight. In November 2015, believing that people shouldn’t have to commit to a single taste, Patrick and Zezura Ruddell launched Mini Doughnut Factory, where three diminutive treats equal one standard-sized doughnut, offering patrons a chance to experiment. Four flavors of doughnuts, 12 icings, 19 toppings and five drizzles make for dozens of customized options, but fan favorites include “Sweet Pig” (maple icing with bacon) and “Cotton Candy” (strawberry icing with Pop Rocks). For something truly decadent, try a doughnut milkshake or sundae. minidoughnutfactory.com
• W E E K I WA C H E E •
• TA M PA •
Left: A Tampa culinary icon returns Above: Bite-sized sugary joy at Mini
Doughnut Factory
GOODY GOODY Growing up in the ’60s and ’70s, Richard Gonzmart relished trips to Goody Goody for burgers, pies and milkshakes. For more than a decade, the fourthgeneration restaurateur (his family founded The Columbia in 1905) has worked to resurrect the iconic diner; his efforts came to fruition in August with a grand opening in historic Hyde Park Village. Gonzmart expanded the original menu with fare that has ties to Florida (such as a shrimp po’ boy) and his family (the meatloaf has a hardboiled egg in the center, just like his mom made it), but
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SALTY MERMAID INN •NEW SMYRNA BEACH•
Above: Pamper yourself at Salty Mermaid Inn.
old-timers will recognize orange and lime freezes, egg and olive salad, and the “POX” (pickle, onion and special sauce) burger. goodygoodyburgers.com
Craving privacy? With only five rooms, Salty Mermaid Inn, open since May, offers guests an exclusive hideaway that’s mere yards from the ocean and a few blocks from the shops, bars and restaurants of Flagler Avenue. Each 325-squarefoot room offers luxurious amenities, including RitzCarlton mattresses, Egyptian cotton towels, 400-thread count linens, down pillows and comforters, Pharmacopia bath products, a 50-inch smart television and a Keurig coffee maker. Sliding glass doors lead out to individual travertine sun pads with chaise lounges and umbrellas. Golf carts, scooters, bicycles, paddleboards and surfboards are available for rental. saltymermaidnsb.com
PHOTOGR APHY BY (CLOCK WISE) MINI DOUGHNUT FAC TORY, BLUE ISL AND DIGITAL PHOTOGR APHY, GOODY GOODY
• TA M PA •
WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (C E N T RA L ) FROSTY’S CHRISTMASTIME LOUNGE • O R LA N D O •
At Frosty’s Christmastime Lounge, it’s always the most wonderful time of the year. A sleigh hangs from the ceiling, a 6-foot-tall toy soldier guards a wall, a leg lamp provides campy mood lighting, an electric train runs along a track suspended above the bar, and a snow machine spontaneously fills the bar with flurries. Even beverages connote yuletide whimsy: cocktails come over snow cones and only holiday beers are served on draft. The Christmas-themed bar, which opened in August, has been a longtime dream of Todd Ulmer and Mark Angelo, partners known locally for their theme lounges. “People feel happy during the holiday season, so we wanted a place that captured that joy,” says Ulmer. frostys-orlando.com
Above: Captain’s chairs at Veronica’s
Fish and Oyster Bar
Avacoa. Stocked with labels such as Bella Dahl, Yumi Kim and Ella Moss, Marston peddles premium denim, luxury t-shirts, and classic and contemporary wear for women. She also carries accessories and giftware from up-and-coming designers and young girls’ clothing (sizes 0-6x). “I know a lot of moms don’t have time for separate shopping trips for themselves and their kids,” Aronson says. shopmarston.com
City’s Gramercy Tavern and Miami Beach’s Estiatorio Milos. His menu includes a mix of iconic dishes—spanakopita, grilled octopus, moussaka— and modern plates such as pan-fried Icelandic cod fillet served with quinoa tabbouleh. An open kitchen and raw fish bar encourage diners to watch and learn how their meals are prepared. nisigroup.com
NISI
In May, Ciao Cucina and Bar joined the lively lineup at The Promenade. The Italian gastropub boasts a robust selection of handmade pastas and Neapolitan-style pizzas. Clients think the octopus, poutine and Nutella bread pudding are delizioso. The bar’s cocktail program shines the spotlight on Italian liqueurs, with
•COCONUT CREEK• • F O R T LA U D E R D A L E •
MARSTON BOUTIQUE •JUPITER•
Katrina Aronson spent years working in finance, then fashion, in New York City. Now back in her home state, she’s using her business and style savvy to run Marston Boutique, which opened in January in downtown
CIAO CUCINA AND BAR
A palette of white and earth tones, accented with olive trees and driftwood sculptures, evokes Mediterranean landscapes at Nisi, a contemporary Greek eatery that opened in late September. At the helm: veteran chef Joshua Wahler, formerly of New York
Below: Designer threads and accessories at Marston Boutique
(SOUTH) VERONICA’S FISH & OYSTER BAR
PHOTOGR APHY BY GENE POLLUX (TOP); SHAYE BABB PHOTOGR APHY (BOT TOM)
• S A R A S O TA •
July ushered in one of Sarasota’s most anticipated openings, Veronica’s Fish & Oyster Bar. Owner Mark Caragiulo built the Southside Village restaurant around an Elvis Costello song, interpreting the lyrics as a woman’s longing for her lover away at sea. He depicts Veronica’s melancholy with murals, mermaid statuary, and velvet curtains and sofas. Specialties include oysters, ceviche, whole fish (served in a crispy Thai or grilled Indian manner), crab fazzoletti (a deconstructed lasagna), and craft cocktails, named after ships. veronicafishandoyster.com
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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (SOUTH) drinks like the Vacanza Romana (Averna Amaro with sweet vermouth, mint, fresh lemon and raw sugar). Exposed wood panels and Edison light bulbs blur the lines between rustic and refined. From the dining room, guests can look into the kitchen through large window panels overlooking the brick pizza oven and glassenclosed pasta studio. ciaocucina.com
PLAYA LARGO RESORT AND SPA • K E Y LA R G O •
The upper Keys’ first new resort in more than two decades
opened just in time for Labor Day weekend celebrations. Situated on 14 pristine waterfront acres, Playa Largo Resort and Spa flutters with outdoor and indoor activity— at its tennis and basketball courts, beach and pool, spa, marina and three gourmet restaurants. Drawing on its sun-kissed natural surroundings, the resort exudes a relaxed, refined atmosphere. For those guests desiring a little seclusion from the main resort, there are 10 bungalows and a three-bedroom beach house with a private plunge pool. playalargoresort.com
Above: Loungers at Playa Largo Resort and Spa overlook the beach.
The Icons Issue
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PHOTOGR APHY BY PL AYA L ARGO RESORT AND SPA
C O M I N G S P R I N G 2 0 17
— Unf ilter ed Fodder —
CAPITAL DAME By Di a n e R o b ert s • I l l u st ra t i o n b y Ja ck S p el l m a n
LAW OF ATTRACTIONS Take a holy rolling ride through Florida’s wacky theme parks of yesteryear and today
You had to pay a quarter, and the lady at the cash register had to light the cigarette, but the monkey would smoke it with a look of deep melancholy on his little face. Nasty, unhealthy habit, of course, but you’d smoke, too, if you were doing hard time in a low-rent roadside attraction attached to a Gulf service station about 18 miles south of Perry, Florida.
The place was called Florida Reptile Land, not that it was particularly focused on reptiles. Sure, there were snakes of various flavors, a sleepy iguana, an alligator in an oily little slough out back; a dancing chicken, a possum who’d hiss at you and a giraffe in a wire pen out front by the gas pumps also occupied the park. The giraffe mostly kept his (or her) head up in the pecan trees,
chewing. When I was seven or eight years old, I was obsessed with the giraffe: did she (or he) long for the savannas of Africa? I didn’t know what a savanna was, but National Geographic said that’s where giraffes were supposed to live. I was obsessed with Reptile Land: in those pre-interstate days, US 19-98 went right by the place, so every time we drove to Miami to stay
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CAPITAL DAME UNF ILTER ED FODDER
with our cousins I’d beg to stop. You could get cold Cokes in bottles and sugary divinity thick with pecans and bags of orange-flavored gum balls there. The “zoo” was free. There was a box for donations to “Feed the Animals,” and my mother would always put several dollars in there, causing my father to complain that the owners would just keep the money and not feed the animals and she was wasting her money, as usual. The animals did look hungry, even the monkey, the star, brandishing his Marlboro. I heard later—in the mid-1980s, I think— that some guys in Tallahassee hatched a plot to liberate the cigarette-smoking monkey. He was, after all, a fellow primate, practically kinfolk. They took some wire cutters and a bunch of bananas. But when they got to Reptile Land, it was closed, out of business, and all the animals gone. You’d have thought that Florida’s flora and fauna were dramatic enough, with lapis lazuli seas, giant turtles, glorious springs, and cypress trees tall as a cathedral spire, yet the people who moved to the Sunshine State could not help but want to fancy it up a bit. Florida had manatees and alligators, why not add some lions? And a giraffe? And parrots? Why not build hotels that look like the Alhambra or Versailles, towns that look like Seville, and golf courses where the grass is tricked into thinking it lives in Scotland? At Cypress Gardens, an idyllic spot near Winter Haven,
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real estate entrepreneurs Dick and Julie Pope didn’t content themselves with a simple flowers and trees: In the mid1930s and 1940s they built a Florida-shaped swimming pool and a fake plantation house. They added girls in hoopskirts and girls on waterskis turning high-speed somersaults on Lake Eloise. There’s something about Florida that inspires fantasy and excess. From the 1920s onward, Florida heaved with improvised, low-rent, magnificently weird tourist lures parked by the side of the highway, conveniently spaced so that, just when
Florida as Florida ceased to be the point; the theme parks themselves became the destination.
the kids in the back seat were about to throw up or stage mutiny, parents could stop and divert them at Dinosaur Wildlife in Spring Hill, with its pink quasi-brontosaurus statue and taxidermied two-headed rattlesnake; or Six Gun Territory near Silver Springs, a fake “Western” town with shoot-outs almost hourly; or the Tom Gaskins’ Cypress Knee Museum, which beckoned you off 27 South with signs hollering: “Come See Tom’s Knees” and “hey lady if he won’t stop hit him on head with shoe.” These treasures are all lost, along with the Moonshine Still exhibit, the Honey Bee Observa-
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tory, Rattlesnake Headquarters (where you could buy canned rattler meat in “Supreme Sauce”), the Waltzing Waters Aquarama, Petticoat Junction Amusement Park, Clyde Beatty’s Jungleland and the beloved Atomic Tunnel, home of “Happy the Walking Fish,”—all returned to kudzu jungle or palmetto scrub, paved over, or turned into an outlet mall. Before the interstates, before the advent of what Carl Hiaasen calls “Team Rodent,” tourists on the South Dixie Highway or Route 19 along the Gulf Coast would jam on the brakes when they saw a sign that said “Coral Castle” or “Live Mermaids.” How could you not stop? Edward Leedskalnin, a Latvian immigrant, took decades to singlehandedly carve an intricate building out of coral rock, supposedly in tribute to his lost love back in the old country. As for the mermaids, Weeki Wachee presented strong-lunged young women in zip-up lamé tails and sequinned brassieres drinking Coca-Colas and performing underwater adagios 16-20 feet beneath the surface of the spring. Of course, when the Mouse colonized Central Florida with his princesses and talking dogs, a fountain lit by Christmas lights or an orchid shop pretending to be a nuclear fallout shelter didn’t entice the way it once did. Even the sirens of Weeki Wachee struggled to compete with a CGI Ariel you can visit in her sea kingdom without getting a drop of water on you. And how magical can Goofy Golf (the name doesn’t refer to Disney’s Goofy but the aesthetics of the place) on Panama City Beach be compared to flying around Hogwarts on the Flight of the Hippogriff ride at Universal Studios? Florida as Florida ceased to be the point; the theme parks themselves became the destination. You can choose the world you want to lose yourself in: Hogsmeade, a Daffy Duck cartoon, The Simpsons’ Springfield, Queen Elsa’s Ice Palace, or, if your pilgrimage might be spiritual, first-century Jerusalem, conveniently
CAPITAL DAME UNF ILTER ED FODDER
located 15 miles from Orlando International Airport and rendered exactly as Jesus would have known it (except for the air-conditioning). I speak, obviously, of The Holy Land Experience, located just off Interstate 4 exit 78—not to be confused with Holy Land USA of Bedford, Virginia, which has been closed since 2009, the replica of Noah’s Ark now converted into a nine-bedroom house; or Holy Land USA in Waterbury, Connecticut, abandoned and rapidly becoming a picturesque ruin; or Holey Land in Palm Beach County where the python hunting is particularly good. According to its official history, Central Florida’s Holy Land Experience “was born in the heart of a Jewish believer named Marvin Rosenthal,” who felt called to build a Christian theme park. In 2007, Rosenthal’s organization sold the park to Trinity Broadcasting Network, an outfit founded by evangelists Jim and Tammy Faye Bakker and Paul and Jan Crouch, who made it even bigger and better and more Jesus-y. For the price of a $50 day pass, you can visit The Wilderness Tabernacle and see “Aaron, the High Priest” prepare the sacrifices right there next to the shiny Ark of the Covenant. You can walk into the belly of Jonah’s whale, feast on a Samson Foot-Long Dog or Elijah Flatbread Pizza at Esther’s Banquet Hall, and buy sanctified souvenirs at the Jerusalem Market. Jesus gets crucified pretty much every afternoon, too, and you can watch. Like many of Florida’s other monuments to unreality (the ones outside Universal and Disney, anyway), The Holy Land Experience has fallen on some hard times. TBN stopped being its sugar daddy and Jan Crouch, the pinkwigged Pentecostal diva who oversaw day-today operations, died this past June at the age of
78. Crouch, said to be the “soul” of the park, famously claimed to have raised her pet chicken from the dead after it got hit by a car. She also swore her long struggle with depression was healed by a dream in which she saw Jesus laughing uncontrollably. But when she went to meet her maker, she left a trail of scandal and debt: The Orlando Sentinel reported that The Holy Land Experience “has seen years of ongoing litigation with the Crouches’ granddaughter, Brittany Davidson (formerly Koper), over allegations of embezzlement and spending charitable donations on extravagant lifestyles.” To raise a bit of cash, the theme park recently held an estate yard sale, offloading such righteous junk as a gilt camel with a jeweled crown, a white Harley-Davidson festooned with angel wings, a number of thronelike chairs, Roman Centurion outfits and a large fake snake. How will Florida’s Eden cope without its serpent? Maybe the plan is to upgrade and get an animatronic Tempter to slither through the concrete and plastic. Many of our last masterpieces of tackiness are struggling: Cypress Gardens, once the flowery wonder of the world, is now a Legoland. Goofy Golf, with that kitschy collection of statues rarely seen on normal greens—giant monkeys, turtles, dinosaurs, alligators, fish and a Sphinx painted a febrile, Trumpian shade of orange—was looking a trifle shabby last time I saw it. I pray it will continue to confound good taste on Panama City Beach. At least the mermaids of Weeki Wachee will swim eternally in their sky-blue spring, hair floating, tails fluttering: The state of Florida took over the park in 2008, ensuring a steady flow of revenue. I can think of no better use of our tax dollars
than to support the lovely naiads of Hernando County. As for The Holy Land Experience, I’m not sure Jesus would dig that show. Your tax dollars don’t pay for The Holy Land Experience, but the attraction does get a break from the state—it’s tax exempt. Thanks to a law passed by the state legislature in 2006, any place with a “biblical history display” can charge admission and make a profit, but needn’t render unto the government one red cent—or in this case, $2.2 million, the Orange County’s estimate of what the Crouches’ do-it-yourself Judea would otherwise owe. Jan Crouch, the pearl-draped patron saint of The Holy Land Experience, was paid more than $400,000 a year in salary, along with $300,000 of meal expenses a year. She bought Conway Twitty’s grand estate in Tennessee and his-and-her mansions in a gated community in California and, according to her granddaughter Brittany, rented two adjacent rooms in a deluxe hotel in Orlando for close to two years for her and her Maltese dogs, as well as an air-conditioned motorhome for her two pampered pooches. The Ministry tried to claim two Lake Windermere homes as a “parsonage” and thus also tax-exempt, but the state didn’t buy it. This is the prosperity gospel at work, y’all. But isn’t there something in the Bible about Jesus kicking the money changers and deposit takers out of the Temple? Ah well, this is Florida. As the old tourist board slogan used to say, “Florida. The Rules are Different Here.”
Diane Roberts is an eighthgeneration Floridian, educated at Florida State University and at Oxford University. A long-time NPR commentator, her work has appeared in the New York Times, The Guardian and the Tampa Bay Times. She has also authored four books, including Dream State, a historical memoir of Florida.
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SUNDAYS Flamingo flew south for the winter—for polo season that is. From the luxurious International Polo Club grandstand to a small square of a picnic blanket, here’s how to enjoy the Sport of Kings Flamingo style. Photography by MARY BETH KOETH
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Above:
Sunday 3 p.m. highgoal polo action at the International Polo Club in Wellington
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can’t-miss matches
NINE OF THE COOLEST COMPETITIONS — International Polo Club —
T
hundering down a grassy pitch nine times larger than a football field at speeds nearing 40 miles per hour, professional polo players and their 1,000-pound horses kick up quite a fuss on rural pastures in Wellington. On sunny winter Sundays, when the small white ball goes sailing through the two goal posts, the scoring player raises his mallet and gallops across the grass in triumphant glory while well-dressed fans, gathered at the International Polo Club, respond with a Champagne salute. It’s a scene straight out of the movie Pretty Woman that has become synonymous with the Sport of Kings.
HERBIE PENNELL CUP 20 GOAL Over the course of the game’s almost 100-year history in our state, Wellington has grown into the winter polo capital of the world. But players and their horses have mesmerized fans for nearly 2,000 years, beginning in Central Asia, then spreading to India, England, Argentina and finally the United States. Florida has 28 polo clubs, 16 of which are in Wellington, according to the United States Polo Association. Polo people help pour more than $200 million into the Wellington economy— including about 150,000 hotel stays. On Sunday afternoons from January 1 through April 23 (about 17 weeks), the IPC in Wellington is the place to see high-goal polo, as well as a few celebrities and nobles.
RULES and REGALIA
Though polo has royal origins, particFor all the pomp and circumstance at the IPC ipating in the sport at its highest level is not for stadium on the seventh day, however, Wellington the pampered wimp: Last season, Prince Harry, insiders know that, on the other six days of an amateur player, reigned over the field and the week, polo matches unfurl in the party scene at Wellington’s Valirefreshingly stripped-down fashion: Opposite clockwise: ente Polo Farms for his charity’s raw athletic talent, equine beauty Players wear sixth annual Sentebale Royal Salute protective helmets and country-style tailgating (liter- in the high-speed Polo Cup. game; Polo ponies ally) with pickup trucks pulled up Polo is a difficult contact sport, travel at speeds next to a field. In fact, though polo up to 40 mph in according to George DuPont Jr., Phillips is commonly seen as an elite part of matches; executive director of the Museum of rides his horse Florida culture, the game is equally Honey Badger; Polo Polo and Hall of Fame in Wellington mallets, made of appreciated by sportsmen and social- manau, are designed since 1988. The game, played by to curve during play ites, families and singletons, and two teams of four, unfolds in six locals and tourists. periods known as chukkers, each “How many people think they lasting seven and a half minutes. In can’t watch the game because they’re about one and a half hours of game not royalty?” says Brandon Phillips, a profes- time, players ride eight to 12 different horses. sional five-goal player who rides for Postage The horses, which are constantly compared to Stamp Farms in Wellington. “Anyone can do it. Ferraris, train a minimum of three to five years And it’s fun to watch.” before playing in a match. To make things more
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December 29, 2016– January 1, 2017 The season opener is festive and glamorous
JOE BARRY MEMORIAL CUP 20 GOAL January 4–22 In honor of an exemplary polo player, on- and off-field
YLVISAKER CUP 20 GOAL
January 25–February 19 A tribute to the guy who won 3 U.S. Open titles
IGLEHART CUP 20 GOAL
February 22–March 4 Final 20-goal battle of the season; only 4 teams
C.V. WHITNEY CUP 26 GOAL
February 22–March 5 Single-elimination format; first of three 26-goal tourneys
USPA GOLD CUP 26 GOAL
March 5–26 Two brackets, four teams each, one shiny cup
USPA U.S. OPEN POLO CHAMPIONSHIP 26 GOAL March 29–April 23 Final, most prestigious tournament
8TH ANNUAL INTERNATIONAL GAY POLO TOURNAMENT April 6–9 Senators Cup trophy and tailgating prizes
— Further Afield —
LA MARTINA MIAMI BEACH POLO WORLD CUP April 27–29
Between 20th and 22nd St., Miami Beach Bring sunscreen and a bathing suit
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Up close, you can feel the power and speed and
challenging, players swing the mallet from their right hand and control the horse with their left. A player’s line of sight and strike zone for hitting the ball can vary 18 inches due to riding turbulence. Professional players are given handicaps, similar to golfing, on a scale of -2 to 10 goals. Only a handful of athletes in the world attain 10 goal status. Polo’s elite reputation stems from its ancient, regal history, but also from the uber-wealthy owners of modern-day teams, known as patrons or patronas. Few people have amassed the wealth necessary to take the reigns as a patron. Some experts estimate costs upwards of $5 million a season just for horses and players’ salaries. Patrons are unique compared to other professional sports team owners because they typically play with the team, despite their amateur lower handicap status. The relationships between the big boss and the players are often as close as they are complicated. “You’re friends with these people, but you’ve
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ipc party profile FOUR DIFFERENT SOCIAL SETTINGS TO MATCH YOUR MOOD PREPPY:
Sipping champs on the Lilly Pulitzer Patio at The Pavilion
CHILLAXED:
Toasting craft beer in your refillable growler while chomping on charcuterie in the Funky Buddha Beer Garden
DECADENT:
Munching a rich brunch in a refurbished vintage English double-decker bus known as the Coco Polo Lounge, valet parking and gift goodies included
VIP:
Bubbling in and out of the Veuve Clicquot Airstream Lounge, keep it popping during the game
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also got to ask for the check,” says Phillips. “One little thing goes wrong in [the patron’s] life: they get divorced, get hurt, market goes bad, business goes bad, the first thing they cut is their fun money. That’s us. I wake up every day wondering if I’m getting a call saying, ‘It’s not fun anymore.’”
CHANGING of the GUARDS A substantial chunk of “fun money” drained out of Wellington in 2010, when one of the biggest patrons, John Goodman, founder and then-owner of the IPC, killed a 23-year-old man in a drunk driving accident and was later convicted and incarcerated. The fate of the IPC hung in the balance until this March, when the CEO of Wellington Equestrian Partners, Mark Bellissimo, purchased the club for $72 million, according to reports. Speculation swirled that
see the horses—the real great athletes —matt baran the show horse king might turn the grounds into a dressage and show-jumping venue, but so far, to the polo community’s delight, Bellissimo and his team have planned renovations for the IPC starting in the spring. Another sign of change came in May of this year when the 93-year-old Gulfstream Polo Club, Florida’s first polo grounds, was sold to developers, with plans to build homes on the site.
POWER PLAYERS Dark days and new developments haven’t slowed the play. Every year from October through May, a barrage of equestrians, polo players, fans and about 10,000 horses come to Wellington for a series of events held in stadiums and on fields throughout the area. When polo season peaks, 100 fields on private farms and polo clubs within a 20-mile radius transform into an eques-
trian wonderland populated by equal parts polo fanatics and horseshow folks (who spend their time at the Winter Equestrian Festival, another big draw to town). A parade of trailers, carrying millions of dollars’ worth of horses, pulls into town. Then the glitterati appear: the horse-riding offspring of movers and shakers like Bill Gates, Bruce Springsteen and Michael Bloomberg. For those looking to parachute into the social scene during the polo season, these A-listers mingle with Argentinian mallet-swingers and Palm Beach partiers—all under the comfort of white tents at the IPC, sipping Harry’s fresh-squeezed lime fizz or lemonade cocktails. Beyond the Sunday Champagne brunches, wide-brim hats and millionaire scandals, the sport also breeds a more accessible, stripped down culture that celebrates the athleticism of the animals and the players with scrimmages and matches held throughout the week. For more of a jeans and t-shirt kind of outing, some polo clubs and fields allow fans to park cars a mere
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Above from left: 15 to 20 feet from the The iconic clock sideboards and watch the tower on Worth game from the tailgate of Avenue in Palm Beach; Honey a pickup truck. Badger, dressed for a match, gazes out “Up close, you can of her barn window; The view from feel the power and speed the grandstands and see the horses—the on Sunday at the real great athletes on the International Polo Club in Wellington field,” says Matt Baran, sport marketing manager of the United States Polo Association. It’s power—of ponies, players, patrons and parties—that keeps fans electrified and returning to these green acres in South Florida year after year. At the center of it all, the players jockey a complicated course, competing as athletes for titles and rank, caring for a troop of horses, cutting deals with patrons and even cavorting on the social scene. Florida pro polo player Brandon Pillips breaks it all down for Flamingo in a revealing interview.
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Phillips makes his home in Wellington when not traveling the world playing high-goal. Opposite: Phillips takes a moment with his horse Honey Badger at the barn at Postage Stamp Farm near his home.
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the polo boy next door Inside Wellington sporting culture with Florida high-goal player, cancer survivor and life-long horseman Brandon Phillips
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randon Phillips grew up on a horse farm outside of Toronto and came to Florida for the first time as a 17-year-old on Christmas break. A week later, the young cancer survivor, had a spot on a professional team in Wellington. Phillips, 39, now calls the South Florida equine community home and has been playing high-goal polo around the world ever since. Flamingo recently caught up with Phillips at Postage Stamp Farm, the team barn where he keeps his 12 horses, to talk ponies, patrons and someday winning the big prize.
What’s the polo crowd like? BP: Every year is different. It’s either a really young crowd or Vero Beach seems to come over and hang out. One or the other.
Who are the best players? BP: Argentines are the best in the world. They dominate. Americans playing polo are like Argentines playing in the NFL.
WHen were you playing your best polo? BP: In the last five years. This is one of my biggest seasons in many years. I’m playing in
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Above:
Phillips in the barn at Postage Stamp Farm with Honey Badger, 5, a polo horse he bred and has owned since she was a foal
the 20-goal, wich is the highest level here in the winter. The last few years we have played in a lower level, but now we have a team in the big show. It’s time, we want to do well for [our patrona].
How long can you keep playing?
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Do you have any favorite horses? BP: My favorite horses are those that perform better, faster, and easier, like a Ferrari versus a Toyota. Out of 15 or 16 horses, maybe you’ll have eight Ferraris.
Do you own your horses?
BP: Players can last into their 40s.
BP: Players and pros usually own their own
So I have at least 10 more years. I’m feeling good, but I’m one broken leg away from being done.
horses. Some of them I own, some of them I don’t. Annabelle [my patrona] has recently bought a few that I play.
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polo crash pads
Are there sports agents in polo?
WHERE TO STAY AND PLAY
BP: Sometimes you have longer-term contracts, but it’s not like you’re a hockey player with a three-year deal and an agent handling it. It’s so personal. It’s more of us sitting down at dinner and saying, “So what do you want to do next summer?” I wish it wasn’t this way. I wish there were more agents to deal with the money.
WELLINGTON THE BENEFIT:
Less hoofing to see the hoofs
HOT SPOTS:
Hampton Inn & Suites, Two convenient locations, book quickly, 2155 Wellington Green Dr. or 8205 Lake Worth Rd.; hamptoninn3.hilton.com
Tell us about your fight with Cancer? BP: I had non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma when I was 15. I had a polo game on Thursday, a rugby game on Friday, soccer game on Saturday, and woke up on Sunday—June 7, 1992—and my left leg was aching, like growing pains. I had a grapefruit-sized tumor.
PALM BEACH THE BENEFIT:
Closer to world-class shopping and strolling on Worth Avenue
How did overcoming cancer impact you? BP: I appreciate what I do, but much differently. When you hear people freaking out about stupid things and about pressure, they have no idea. Pressure is sitting in your hospital bed waiting for your doctor to tell you if you’re going to die or not. That’s pressure.
HOT SPOTS:
The Breakers An iconic experience with old-school glamour 1 S. County Rd., Palm Beach thebreakers.com The Brazilian Court A romantic getaway 301 Australian Ave., Palm Beach thebraziliancourt.com
When did you start playing professionally? BP: My last two years of high school,
Horses are expensive, how do you manage the financials? BP: It’s like owning a trucking company. You have to keep buying trucks for business, constantly reinvesting. You sell off the older ones or the weaker ones and bring back new ones. Some guys sell their best horses to make ends meet. Then, all of a sudden, you get the good job and buy two good horses with that money. You need consistency, which this sport doesn’t have because people who pay us, this is their fun money.
Kimpton Tideline Ocean Resort & Spa Relax by the beach or pool after the ponies 2842 South Ocean Blvd., Palm Beach tidelineresort.com
I started playing here. I had a tutor down here, so I finished high school while I started playing professionally.
What did your parents think? BP: They planned it. I actually came down Christmas break and had never been to Florida. I thought I was visiting a friend who happened to be a team manager. They put me in a practice and the owner said, “So you’re going to stay and play the season with us.” And I was like, “I have a flight tomorrow morning. I’m going back to school.” My parents organized for me to spend the winter here. But they never told me.
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The Brazilian Court
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galloping gourmet IT’S TROUGH TIME! WE HAVE YOUR MEALS COVERED FROM MORNING TILL NIGHT BREKKIE HOT SPOT: TAYLOR MADE CAFE
Open weekdays and Sat. at 9 a.m. to start your caffeine drip and grab a healthy, quick parfait, protein ball or egg wrap 12160 Southshore Blvd., Wellington taylormadecafe.com
BRUNCH HOT SPOT: OLI’S
For five kinds of eggs benedict and Florida-fresh mimosas 10610 West Forest Hill Blvd., Wellington olisfashioncuisine.com
LUNCH HOT SPOTS: FRANCO ITALIAN BISTRO
Keep it light with a savory salad or soup, or splurge on a thin crust pizza or heaping plate of pasta. 10160 Forest Hill Blvd., Wellington francoitalianbistro.com
THE GRILLE
Indulge with their classic mac n’ cheese (aged cheddar, bacon, truffle essence) or dine like an Argentine on a grilled skirt steak with chimichurri. 12300 South Shore Blvd., Wellington thegrillefashioncuisine.com
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Avocado and tomato crostini at The Patio at Polo
You have a Michael Jordon, and then you have a league minimum guy. —Brandon Phillips
Is Florida home? BP: This is my favorite place to be. I’m not into the snow or cold anymore. You go to Aspen for a week, go skiing and then get the hell out. I’m excited to come home. You have horses here, and you’re 15 minutes from the beach and an hour from Miami. I was supposed to go do a thing in Hawaii this week, and I canceled. I’d rather hang out here.
What does a polo player do to stay in shape? BP: I’m in the gym five to six days a week. Like a soccer player, I do a lot of cardio, agility, band work and repetition. You’re not like the guys there with the mouth guards, grunting, lifting 5,000 pounds.
BP: In Houston, 10 years ago, my horse fell. I went over the side, and it stepped on my chest, ripped cartilage on my sternum.
Do you wear a unitard when you work out, like wrestlers?
Do polo players get rowdy?
BP: Only on Sundays!
BP: Horse show people are worse, but
How often do you practice? BP: Three days a week, we do drills, but those practices are more of a scrimmage. So eight players get together every Tuesday, Above from left: Stomping the Thursday and Saturday divots at half time at the IPC; Phillips morning. Then we’ll riding with friend have team practices and fellow player Nic Roldan at the where we’ll rent the Greenwich Polo Club field out. in Greenwich, Ct.
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Have you ever been seriously injured?
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horse race people are absolutely nuts. Being in polo, especially at this level in a small town, everyone knows everyone. If you’re going to have more fun than the rest, you have to be careful.
How much money is spent on a team? BP: We have 12 horses for myself and my patrona has eight, with a budget of around $23,000 a month to keep them healthy and fit.
Above:
The bar at Imoto
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HAPPY HOUR HOT SPOT: LA FOGATA
Fresh-made guacamole, margaritas and all-day happy hour Sat. and Sun. 11924 Forest Hill Blvd, Wellington lafogatawellington.com
DINNER HOT SPOTS: BUCCAN
Award-winning chef’s wood-grilled menu features ingredients from local farmers. 350 South County Rd., Palm Beach buccanpalmbeach.com
CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS BY INTERNATIONAL POLO CLUB AND UNITED STATES POLO ASSOCIATION, THE BR AZILIAN COURT HOTEL AND WORTH AVENUE ASSOCIATION
IMOTO
How are players Compensated?
What is the make-up of a 20-goal team?
BP: Ten-goal players make $2 to $3 million,
BP: I’m ranked five-goals. [My Patrona] is
after expenses, for a Florida season. There’s five or seven guys doing that out of a couple hundred. Then there are guys making $1,500 dollars a game. You have a Michael Jordon, and then you have a league minimum guy.
an amateur. She starts at zero. Then I’ve hired a nine-goal player and six-goal player. So the nine, six and five, we add up to 20.
Can you explain the professional rankings?
BP: The one year we won all the 20-goal
BP: The higher ranked you are, the more money you get. A committee watches you yearround, and you stay the same, go up, or down.
What does your five-goal ranking mean? BP: I’m in the top 20 for Americans. There are 25 of us at that level. 80 or 85 percent of polo players are two-goal and below.
Buccan’s sister restaurant next door serves Asianinspired dishes like tuna tataki and lobster ceviche. 350 South County Rd., Palm Beach imotopalmbeach.com
MEAT MARKET
For playful bar hobnobbing and sassy steak sauces such as Touch of Fire Mango and Scotch Bonnet. 191 Bradley Place, Palm Beach meatmarketpalmbeach.com
Which moments stand out in your career?
THE PATIO AT POLO.
An outdoor dining option within the Palm Beach Polo and Country Club. 11198 Polo Club Rd, Wellington thepatioatpolo.com
[tournaments] for one team. I think only one team had done that before.
How do you feel about the U.S. Open?
Below:
BP: That’s the one thing left, the U.S. Open.
Dinner at Meat Market
I lost the final once, and I lost the semi-finals in overtime twice. I may not have a chance to play at that [26-goal] level and win it. —by Christina Cush and Jamie Rich
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PHOTOGR APH BY JENNIFER ADLER .
Manatees have been swimming in Florida’s waterways for centuries.
PHOTOGR APH BY JENNIFER ADLER
Above:
The gentle manatee is now considered by many as “threatened,” not “endangered.” But is the sea cow’s proposed status downgrade a good thing?
FORGOTTEN
Mermaids By CRAIG PITTMAN
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animal might seem unlikely. But the fight over the protected status—and thus the future—of the Florida manatee has gone on for 17 years. Most endangered species are easy to recognize and difficult to spot. Florida panthers, for instance, despite being the official state animal, hunt at night and thus are seldom seen by humans. Manatees are the endangered species that we Floridians are most likely to encounter. They’re out in the daytime, hanging out by our backyard docks, cruising past where we’re swimming at the beach, or clustering by the hundreds next to a power plant when the weather turns cold. Most of the time, they are solitary creatures, except during cold weather when it’s mating time. That’s when TV stations often report beachgoers seeing seven or eight manatees that appear to be “in distress”—actually, it’s
PHOTOGR APHY BY BILL GARVIN (THIS PAGE); JENNIFER ADLER (PREVIOUS PAGE)
O
ne Saturday afternoon last January, a 10-year-old girl with blonde hair, a blue dress and a very determined manner marched to the front of an Orlando hotel ballroom carrying a pink stool. She plopped it down in front of a wooden lectern, stepped up and leaned toward a microphone. Her name is Megan Sorbo, and she had a message to deliver to the adults at the front of the room, employees of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Too many manatees, she said, keep getting hit by boats. Do you know, she asked, what it feels like to a manatee to be hit by a boat? She said it was “like a human getting hit by a bus.” Sorbo was one of about 70 people gathered in that ballroom who wanted to convince the federal bureaucrats that the manatee should continue being listed as an endangered species. Another vocal contingent of perhaps 50 or so, many of them from a town in Citrus County where the economy is largely manatee-dependent, argued just the opposite. They have gone to court to get the manatees removed from the federal endangered list. “The evidence is overwhelming” that manatees are no longer endangered, said Lisa Moore, a fourth-generation Floridian who’s president of a pro-boating, anti-regulation group called Save Crystal River. That people could argue so hotly over such a placid, peaceful
PHOTOGR APHY BY FLORIDA FISH AND WILDLIFE INSTITUTE (LEFT); PATRICK M. ROSE (RIGHT)
and beef. As early as the 1880s, some scientists worried that so many manatees had been killed that they might disappear forever. Their solution: Kill some to make taxidermied displays for museums. Florida passed its first manatee protection law in 1893. Anyone who wanted to kill a manatee had to get a county permit showing that it was for science. The law generally went unenforced. In 1907, a new manatee menace emerged when Ole Evinrude, a Norwegian-American inventor, developed the outboard motor. By the 1940s, people were spotting Florida manatees with propeller scars across their backs. These days, there are so many scarred manatees that scientists use wound patterns to distinguish them as individuals. When federal biologists first issued an endangered species list, back in 1967, they included manatees on it—but not for the reason most people might expect. The biologists consulted a manatee expert, Craig Phillips, who was the first curator of the Miami Seaquarium. Phillips warned the federal biologists that there was no way to reliably count manatees. They surface about every five minutes or so to breathe, but spend the rest of their time underwater, making them nearly invisible to humans on the surface. Thus, the size of their population couldn’t be the basis for any decisions about whether they were endangered, he said. Instead, Phillips suggested they deserved federal protection based on the threats they faced, particularly from speeding boats. The biologists agreed, putting them on the list. At the time, the endangered species law was fairly weak. When Congress passed the far tougher Endangered Species Act in 1973, and it was signed into law by then-President Richard Nixon, manatees were protected—or were supposed to be. But every year the number of manatees killed by speeding
Opposite:
Sea cow squads assemble in Homosassa Springs State Park (left) and in Three Sisters Springs in Crystal River (right). Below:
Manatees cluster in Blue Springs
a group of males relentlessly pursuing a lone female. Manatee sex apparently makes for great TV. Physically, manatees aren’t impressive. Their plump bodies resemble a dumpling with flippers and a fluke. They have shoebutton eyes and whiskers that they brush together in greeting, like a kiss. They swim, eat and poop—helping spread the seeds of seagrass, which provides nursery space for a wide variety of fish species.
FOES AND FRIENDS Manatees have been swimming in Florida’s waterways for centuries, according to fossils found at our springs and reports from a naturalist in the late 1700s. Early settlers and Native Americans thought manatees were a tasty alternative to venison
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boats increased until finally, in 2000, a coalition of environmental groups, led by Save the Manatee Club, which was founded by Jimmy Buffett and former Senator Bob Graham while Graham was governor, sued both the state and federal governments, contending they were violating the law. The suits also took aim at the loss of habitat to waterfront development, particularly new boating facilities. Both state and federal officials settled the suits, agreeing in 2001 to impose new restrictions on boating speeds and to limit or even ban human access to some areas considered important for manatees. The settlements, as is usual with civil suits, resulted from backroom negotiations. Boaters and developers raised an outcry, contending they had been left out of discussions crucial to their future (even though the developers and boating industry both were parties to the lawsuits). In 1999, the year that the environmental groups had originally filed a notice of their intent to sue, a wily boating industry lobbyist named Wade Hopping recommended his clients try a new attack: Get manatees taken off the endangered list.
All the evidence currently available indicates the manatee population is stable and growing, Hopping wrote in a memo that was reported in the St. Petersburg Times. He most likely based that conclusion on the state’s annual aerial surveys of manatees, in which biologists on a cold winter day fly around and try to count the manatees huddled up in the warm water outfalls of power plants. Robert K. Bonde, a biologist and co-author of The Florida Manatee: Biology and Conservation (University Press of Florida, 2006), has compared the reliability of this method to counting popcorn as it pops. Hopping’s memo became the blueprint for groups opposed to the new restrictions: get manatees removed from the endangered list or at least knocked down a peg to “threatened.” Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission board members nearly took that step in 2007, but dropped the idea after Buffett himself lobbied then-Governor Charlie Crist backstage at a Tampa concert. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, though, is required by law to review the status of its endangered critters every five years. In 2007 it came out with a review suggesting manatees might no longer fit the endangered definition. It based that ruling on something that wasn’t around when Phillips was advising the federal government: a computer model that predicts the future of the species. Then the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s move toward dropping the level of protection for manatees stalled. Wildlife officials blamed federal budget cuts for the delay. That didn’t
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PHOTOGR APH BY CARLTON WARD JR .
CONTROVERSY CRYSTALLIZES
THEY MIGHT BE GIANTS
Fascinating facts about these flippered creatures Hangouts Manatees lack gills, so they’re adaptable, able to live in either fresh or salt water. They live wherever they find sea grasses to eat. Find them year round at Homosassa Springs, and at certified manatee rehabilitation spots (Lowry Park Zoo in Tampa, SeaWorld in Orlando and the Miami Seaquarium).
Hardiness Snooty, the oldest manatee in captivity, has surpassed age 65. Nobody knows how long manatees can live in the wild, but here’s a clue: Their closest evolutionary relative, elephants, can live to be 86.
Hightailing When startled, they can zoom along at about 25 mph. Unfortunately, if a boat has rattled them, they can turn to flee in the same direction the vessel’s traveling. Many manatees sport zipper-like scars up their backs from being run over by boats.
Hubba-hubba Manatees reproduce very slowly, and thus recover from a major die-off slowly. Most manatees have one or two calves at a time. Their sex drive is so strong, though, that when breeding, seven or eight males chase an individual female.
Above:
Tourists participate in a guided encounter with manatees in Three Sisters Springs in Crystal River.
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Below: Visitors watch manatees swim in Homosassa Springs. Manatees live year-round at the state park in Citrus County. Opposite:
A manatee drinks fresh groundwater from a pipe.
satisfy Lisa Moore’s Save Crystal River group. Ever since Jacques Cousteau featured the sea cows of St. Johns and Crystal Rivers in a 1972 TV special called “The Forgotten Mermaids,” the town, north of Tampa, has drawn thousands of tourists every year who want to swim with those magical manatees or ride boats out to look at them, especially when they gather in spring-fed Kings Bay during the winter. The city sponsors an annual manatee festival, and the stores sell manatee-themed wine-bottle stoppers, toe rings, shower sponges and cayenne pepper sauce. But not everyone in Crystal River loves manatees that much after federal officials proposed limiting boat speeds in Kings Bay during the summer as well as the winter to protect the 500+ manatees that now live there year-round. The city council, the county commission and the Citrus County Tea Party raised a ruckus about the proposal. “We cannot elevate nature above people,” Edna Mattos, leader of the Citrus County Tea Party Patriots, said in a 2011 interview. “That’s against the Bible and the Bill of Rights.” As a result, Save Crystal River worked with the Pacific Legal Foundation, a libertarian group, to file a suit accusing the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service of dragging its feet on the issue of whether manatees are endangered. The suit got the federal agency to move.
THE BIG DOWNGRADE
PHOTOGR APHY BY SUSAN STR AWBRIDGE
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service took action in January 2016, announcing a proposal that manatees no longer fit the legal definition of endangered. “Endangered” means on the brink of extinction, while “threatened” means facing serious threats but not about to disappear any time soon. “It’s like taking manatees out of intensive care and putting them in a regular care facility,” U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service biologist Jim Valade told reporters at a Miami press conference. Valade said the agency had calculated there are now more than 6,000 manatees in Florida, far more than in the past 20 years—although no one knows how many there were in 1967, when they were originally put on the endangered species list. Once again, the numbers being used are based on the aerial
surveys, and violate Phillips’s counsel about how to think about manatees. The move also stands in contrast to the continued listing of other marine species considered endangered, even though no one knows how many there might be—sharks and sea turtles, for instance. The federal agency was ready to downgrade the manatees’ protected status, not because the threats of 1967 had been alleviated, but because of a computer forecasted model of the species’ future. The model, prepared by U.S. Geologic Survey modeler Michael Runge, showed the Florida manatee population had a less than 2.5 percent chance of falling below 4,000 over the next 100 years, “assuming current threats remain constant.” Critics of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s move, when they got up to speak at the public hearing in the Orlando hotel, complained that that assumption sounded wrong on its face. Manatees’ only predator is man, and the number of humans zooming along Florida’s waterways continues to grow every year. That means, critics said, that “current threats” could not possibly “remain constant.” The model had other problems. Runge, when interviewed by a reporter, conceded that his model failed to include some important factors. Start with the mass die-offs, known among scientists as “unusual mortality events.” In 2010, a record number of manatees died: 766, far surpassing the old record of 429, set in 2009. The reason: a long cold snap in January and a second one in December claimed 400 manatee lives. The other 366 most likely died from boatingrelated deaths and there’s the loss of young manatees that have been orphaned. In 2013, the record was broken again, as 829 manatees perished. A red tide algal bloom killed more than 200 of them. Meanwhile, between 2012 and 2015, 158 manatees died of a mysterious ailment in Florida’s Indian River Lagoon, once known as the most diverse ecosystem in America. (Pelicans and dolphins died by the score in the polluted lagoon, too.) That die-off sputtered out, then began anew in 2016—no one knows why. Runge’s model did not take into account either of those
It’s like taking manatees out of intensive care and putting them in a regular care facility. —Jim Valade
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events, even though each wiped out a big chunk of the population. But he said he would adjust the model to try to include those “mortality events.” The larger flaw in the model, though, was another thing it left out: the loss of waterfront habitat, one of the original threats from 1967. Every time a developer turned shoreline into a seawall or converted mangroves into a marina, manatees lost a place to swim, feed and bear their young. There was no way to account for that in the model. Yet the TV coverage and headlines about the announcement convinced many people that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s move was a done deal, and often, a good one.
PHOTOGR APHY BY BRIAN COUSIN/ FAU HARBOR BR ANCH OCEANIC INSTITUTE (LEFT); LOWRY PARK ZOO (RIGHT)
ADVOCATES IN ACTION “People keep coming up to me and saying, ‘Gee, isn’t it great that manatees are no longer endangered?’” says Patrick Rose, the longtime executive director of Save the Manatee Club. “And I have to tell them, ‘That would be great if it were actually true.’” Rose, an avid boater and diver, is a bearded man with a deliberate way of speaking and a fondness for loud ties. He used to be a federal biologist (on contract)— in fact, he had a position similar to Valade’s, Project, agreed in an April statement that overseeing efforts to defend the manatee. the issue of habitat loss and other threats to Then Rose went to work for the state, setting the manatees remained unaddressed by the up manatee speed zones, before joining Save proposal: “In my opinion, many of these threats the Manatee Club. are very likely to continue to increase and are of “I’ve worked my whole professional life for great concern.” The only supporting reasons the this,” he says with some heat, referring to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service gave for saying change in manatee listing. “I can’t sit by and the threats facing manatees had lessened were see them do it for the wrong reasons.” “the existence of protective regulations, which Rose predicts that, despite assurances by in many cases are on paper only and not effective federal officials, the change in status will mean in the field.” a change in regulations. Already, pro-boating Eleven members of Florida’s congressional groups are pushing for relaxing the boatdelegation have written to U.S. Fish and speed rules. Wildlife Service Director Dan Ashe opposing —Patrick rose Rose would not rule out filing another the proposed change, too. Ashe’s agency is lawsuit against the wildlife service if it goes expected to make its final decision in 2017. ahead with the change. Such a suit would, in part, be based on At the Orlando public hearing, Valade and his colleagues comments opposing the agency’s actions by scientists whom contended that changing the manatees’ status would not alter the service asked to review its work. the regulations that now protect them. Lynn Lefebvre, Ph.D., who led the U.S. Geological Survey’s But several speakers said they just do not trust the state or Sirenia Project, a team in Gainesville that’s been studying federal governments to hold the protection line once the status manatees since the 1970s, wrote in an April e-mail to Valade that has been adjusted. the manatee deaths in the Indian River Lagoon followed an algal One speaker suggested that manatees are not the real bloom that wiped out 40,000 acres of sea grasses. That was “a problem at all. catastrophic loss…in the most important manatee habitat on the “The manatee is not the issue; it’s the people,” said Captain Atlantic coast, yet it is barely mentioned,” she wrote. Arthur Eikenberg of New Port Richey. “We don’t seem to be Thomas J. O’Shea, who preceded Lefebvre at the Sirenia able to coexist with anything in nature.”
People keep saying, ‘Gee, isn’t it great that manatees are no longer endangered?’ That would be if it were actually true
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Above:
Researchers feed an orphaned manatee at Lowry Park Zoo. Opposite:
Manatees aggregating in the ship channel at Florida Atlantic University’s Harbor Branch Oceanic Instititute.
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CUBA
Confidential
Exploring the lesser-known parts of our simpรกtico next-door neighbor before she changes Story and Photography By TERRY WARD
Above:
The view from the Loma de la Cruz overlook in Holguin, Cuba
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As a travel writer I’ve built a career on finding adventures in new-to-me-places.
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T
he nerves kick in as my 45-minute flight from Jamaica descends toward the airport in Holguin, Cuba—and not because of the bumps in the clouds or the fact that I’m nearly eight months pregnant. I’m about to finally meet my boyfriend Javier’s mom and brother, whom I’ve greeted just a few times via shoddy video chat. As a travel writer, I’ve built a career on finding adventures in new-to-me places. I’m approaching my 41st birthday full of worldly experiences and at ease almost everywhere I go. But this was no ordinary tourist visit to Cuba. From the arrivals area, I spot a petite brunette named Susana and her son, Janier, waving to me from a gated area outside the doors. With a bright pink shirt and shiny black curls, she looks far younger than her 60 years. The jitters melt away as soon as I step outside, far from my hometown of Tampa, and we exchange hugs. I feel my baby kicking inside me and tell Susana he’s happy to be in Cuba, too. She only speaks Spanish. I’m grateful for my high school lessons, but am now wishing I’d paid more attention. “You have to eat mucho for my nieto,” she says, referring to her future grandson and giving my belly a little pat. I’d heard about the warmth of Cuban culture, but I’m surprised by how instantly welcomed I feel. Janier, 34, a thinner version of my boyfriend, with the same thick eyebrows, mischievous eyes and jet-black hair, hails a Russian Lada taxi and we drive toward town. Horse-drawn carriages share the streets with antique Chevrolets and Dodges. Javier was beyond disappointed that he had to stay behind in Jamaica, where he lives. He’s mired in the bureaucratic system, waiting for his resident permit there to come through before he
Opposite:
Holguin’s main pedestrian street Below, from left:
The Shrine at the Loma de la Cruz; Holguin’s historic Casa Consistorial; fresh snapper at La Cueva Taina outside of GIbara; a classic taxi can take you to the top of Loma de la Cruz; Susana and La Mujer en route to Guardalavaca Beach
But this was no ordinary tourist visit to Cuba.
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can finally travel back to Cuba. He’s made a video for me to share with his family, and on the ride to his childhood home, I pass my iPad to his mother and brother. They play his short, sweet message promising to visit soon, and Susana tears up. “It’s been two years since I’ve seen my son,” she says. Janier puts his arm around her. We soon arrive at the family’s house, a simple cinderblock construction with a small yard with guava, mango and papaya trees and orchids sprouting from plastic bottles tied to a chain-link fence. Susana points to similar houses nearby where Javier’s grandmother and aunt live. We go next door to meet them and they welcome me just as warmly. I feel a tinge guilty that I’m here without Javier. How is he doing, they ask longingly. When I show his grandmother and aunt his video message, they tear up, too. His aunt tells me, sadly but as a matter of fact, that her son left for “the Atlanta” 13 years ago, and she hasn’t seen him since. It’s normal for Cubans to miss someone so close but yet so far away. Sitting down for a meal in Susana’s dining room, where the brightly flowered tablecloth matches a vase of fake orange tiger lilies, lightens the mood. You can tuck into a hundred “authentic” Cuban meals across Florida, but nothing prepares you for sharing a meal in the vibrancy of a Cuban home, where the food piles on your plate as the voices around you urge you to eat more. I gush, “Muy rico,” as Susana adds chicken quarters and yucca topped with a citrusy mojo sauce to my plate. For my “nieto,” she insists. I topple into bed feeling full from the food and comforted by the kindness. In the morning, a neighbor’s crowing rooster makes my baby kick— jolting me awake, too.
mojitos billowing with yerba buena at the iconic Hotel Nacional. I never imagined I’d one day have family ties to the island at this pivotal time in Cuban-American history. Since President Obama eased travel restrictions to Cuba, Havana has lost part of its mystique. Javier’s family lives in Holguin, which is Cuba’s fourth largest city but is largely off tourists’ radar. This is an added bonus for me. I’d never heard of Holguin before meeting him, and now American Airlines offers twice daily direct flights from Miami. Working with his family, Javier planned ahead everything he wanted me to see during my 7-day journey. After a simple breakfast of strong Cuban coffee, fruit, toasted bread and hardboiled eggs, we set out to see Holguin, known as the “City of Parks,” for the five open green spaces built into its neatly gridded streets. In the Parque Calixto García, the city’s main square, art deco buildings like the pre-Revolution Eddy Suñol Theater create a postcard scene. For tourists looking to see Cuba “before it changes,” it’s hard to imagine a better destination. In the park itself, though, the people are all glued to their cell phones. The country’s public parks were recently set up for Wi-Fi. Additionally, hotels are places to connect. The $2 per hour online fee is steep for many Cubans, who barely make $20 per month, Janier tells me. Still, the park teems with eager internet users, many chatting with loved ones abroad—a grandmother seeing her grandbaby in Florida for the first time, a woman in skintight jeans sweetly asking her Canadian papi about her visa. “To know everyone’s business in Holguin, just come to a park,” Janier laughs. Nearby, we stop to see Holguin’s pretty new tourist spot, Hotel Caballeriza, an immaculate 21-room respite. Like all hotels in Cuba, it’s government-owned. This one’s part of the charming boutique-style “Encanto” chain. Encantos run about $120 per night, which is why casas particulares—rooms for rent in Cuban homes—have gained momentum, priced
...but nothing prepares you for sharing a meal in the vibrancy of a Cuban home where the food piles on your plate...
BEYOND HAVANA Before I met Javier, the travel journalist in me longed to visit Cuba: to cruise in vintage American cars along the Malecon in Havana and sip
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VAMOS A IR A CUBA
Details to get you to the Island Travel to Cuba is
restricted, except for Americans who meet one of 12 conditions for authorized trips including humanitarian projects, family visits, journalistic purposes and academic programs.
In August, JetBlue became the first U.S. carrier since the ’60s to offer commercial service to and from Cuba with flights from Ft. Lauderdale and more distant airports. American Airlines flies twice-daily from Miami to Holguin. Many other airlines—Frontier Airlines, Southwest Airlines, Alaska, United, Spirit, Delta and Silver Airways—are expected to start service too. Cuba’s national carrier, Cubana, offers several daily flights from Havana to Holguin, with a flight time of about 80 minutes (cubana. cu). CubaJet also flies weekly between the two cities (cubajet.com).
Americans must acquire a visa or tourist card and Cuban health insurance to
Above:
Calm turquoise water awaits visitors in Guardalavaca Beach
enter the country. JetBlue and American Airlines provide visas at check-in. Tour operators such as Ker & Downey also provide visas (kerdowney.com). Some airlines operating from the U.S. include health insurance in ticket prices.
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Travel Gems
What you need to know before visiting Cuba, the Pearl of the Antilles CURRENCY:
ATMs are rare and don’t accept U.S. bank cards. Cuban businesses reject U.S. credit cards. So cash is king; bring enough U.S. dollars for your trip. Cuba has two currencies: the National Peso (CUP) for Cubans, and the Convertible Peso (CUC) for tourists. The exchange rate for CUC and USD is 1:1. If you have to convert cash to CUCs in Cuba, use an official bank, not a street-side converter.
at around $25 per person per night, BEACH BOUND The resident donkey at Mirador de Another day, we—Susana; Janier; including breakfast. Mayabe, a hilltop my boyfriend’s 11-year-old son; his We leave the hotel and hail a pristine hotel outside 83-year-old grandmother, La Mujer; ’53 Chevy to bring us to the top of the Holguin Opposite, top left: and me—head to the beach at GuarLoma de la Cruz, Holguin’s mirador. Its Susana decorates a dalavaca. La Mujer immediately asks balcony, 856 feet above sea level, can be cake in her Holguin home; a common me if my breasts have milk in them reached by climbing 458 stairs. Holguin street scene; yet, while giving her own chest a The Loma de la Cruz is named for the the inside of Encanto Ordoño in Gibara; squeeze, ensuring nothing gets lost wooden cross placed here in 1790 by a roadside fruitstands in translation. I tell her no and we friar and is used today as a shrine. When are ripe with tropical favorites laugh together. we arrive, I follow Susana and Janier to We pile into a Gumby-colored ’55 the overlook. Dodge and drive 33 miles northeast “You can throw my ashes from here to Guardalavaca, where government-owned all-insomeday,” Susana says to Janier, taking in how the clusive resorts, attracting mostly Canadians and emerald hillsides cradle the city. When Holguin’s lights twinkle and the sun sets, Europeans, stretch across a beautiful white sand beach. we head down to town. In a shady spot under some palms, the family That night we dine at 1910 Restaurante & unpacks a bottle of Havana Club rum to mix with Bar, an example of a paladar, a family-run restaurant similar to a casa particular. Reservations are Ciego Montero cola and settles in. I leave everyone to their cocktails and head into the water. normally not necessary in Holguin. Paladares When I towel off, Susana smiles and tells me offer better and more authentic fare than government-run eateries. Trip Advisor ranks the best that pregnant women in Cuba avoid the ocean paladares, and locals are happy to casually discuss for fear that the movement of the waves brings on early labor. She appreciates my boldness. “Javier their recommendations. We settle in for a feast of Serrano ham, salad, told me you were a loquita [crazy girl],” Susana grilled octopus, garlic shrimp, whole snapper and laughs. I realize any trepidations I had about a plates of congris (rice and black beans). Our bill week with strangers have disappeared. We spend the day swimming and exploring the for five people comes to around $50, including shoreline on pedal boats, rented for $5 an hour. La beers and piña coladas. It’s astronomical for most Cubans, who rarely dine out. I feel guilty about the Mujer, as spry as a 40-year-old, poses for a selfie with me under a palm and says, “The secret to not meal’s affordability for me. Above:
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HEALTH:
The CDC advises updating your vaccinations. Take sensible precautions against Zika and drink bottled water.
PLANNING ONLINE:
Most of Cuba’s larger, government-owned tourist hotels, such as the Cubanacan chain, can be booked online (hotelescubanacan.com). Research casas particulares at casaparticular.com. Airbnb constantly updates lodging listings, and Trip Advisor is an increasingly good source for hotel and restaurant recommendations. Restaurant reservations are typically not necessary.
CUSTOMS:
In October, the U.S. government lifted limits on the amount of Cuban cigars and Havana Club rum Americans can bring back with them. Get the biggest carryon you can possibly manage!
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Above:
Digging into lunch at La Cueva Taina in Gibara Opposite:
Janier rides shotgun in a taxi through the streets of Holguin.
feeling old is never feeling bitter. Focus on the positive things, even when life is hard.” I promise her I’ll cherish this advice. Later, I spot a colorful sail nearby and suggest we rent a Hobie Cat for ourselves to enjoy. “Cubans aren’t allowed on a tourist sailboat or catamaran,” Janier says with a laugh accompanied by an eye roll. “The government fears we will let the wind take us to Miami.”
OLD-WORLD CHARM On my last day, we’ve planned a day trip to Gibara. I booked a tour through the company Ker & Downey to see how I might have experienced the region without my Cuban family’s help, though Janier and Susana decide to join me.
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Our guide is Yusmara Gonzalez, a Holguin native who speaks flawless English. I’ve been speaking only Spanish up to this point, so it’s a relief to revert to my native tongue. We make the hour-long drive, going 22 miles northeast of Holguin, in a comfy air-conditioned van on roads that grow more rutted as we approach Gibara. “Gibara needs tourists,” Gonzalez tells me. “The people are proud of their town. It’s a combination of a small city with colonial architecture, a beautiful bay and a few beaches.” The 19th century brought Gibara’s golden age of trade and commerce, but in the 20th century, things unraveled when the bay was deemed too shallow for big ships. “After the glamour years, it was a ghost town,” Gonzalez says.
wooden tables set in palm thatch huts. There are stuffed crabs, land crabs (which biannually migrate between Cuba’s coasts), whole snapper, grilled shrimp, tuna, tostones and boniato (sweet potatoes). The lunch is included in our tour, and I make a quick call to assure my boyfriend that his mother is enjoying “all the shrimp she wants,” as he’d requested of me before I left. Then we set out together for our final adventure into the Cueva de los Panaderos—a cave named by a group of friends who worked together at a local bakery in the early 20th century and liked to escape here in their downtime. Bats patrol the gaping entrance and hermit crabs stalk the sand as we enter the cave, one of 28 in the area, following our guide Leonel Tauler with headlamps lighting the way. Stunning crystal formations and stalactites appear at every turn. The cave winds more than 1.5 miles back, Tauler says, finishing at an underground lake filled with shrimp and fish. “We have so much to show visitors,” Tauler says. “We are just waiting for them to come.” Before we exit, he asks us to turn off our headlamps, linger in the complete darkness, and make a wish. I think about something Janier said to me earlier in the day. He said my visit had made it easier for everyone to stay strong until they see Javier again. I have an inkling what Janier and Susana are wishing for in that cave. I’m grateful for how well things have gone, meeting my Cuban family. Then I make my wish that when I return to Cuba, it will be with my two boys—Javier, and our half-Cuban, half-American son.
I think about something Janier said to me earlier... my visit made it easier for everyone to stay strong until they see Javier again.
Today, Gibara seems ripe for a comeback. Colonial-era buildings line the street overlooking the water, along with casas particulares and a few beautiful government-owned hotels, including the recently revamped Hotel Ordoño; parks lined with tropical trees; a cathedral; a few bars and an art gallery. In April, the annual Festival Internacional de Cine Pobre spotlights independent filmmakers from Cuba and from as far away as Burkina Faso and Lebanon, screening works for an increasingly international crowd. It’s one of Latin America’s best-kept secrets. For lunch, we find La Cueva Taina Restaurante, a family-run restaurant in a farm-like setting on the outskirts of town. For around $10 a head, a lavish seafood spread materializes at long
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beauty
the feast
Florida’s most creative chefs and farmers combine their passions for the local bounty, fueling a culinary tour de force through exclusive sensorysatiating dinners in pretty pastures and other peculiar places By SARAH L. STEWART
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rom the moment Caroline Moran took her place at a long, rustic dinner table in Loxahatchee four years ago, she knew she had found culinary nirvana. “The bucolic atmosphere of being on the farm makes it special and different,” says Moran, a Wellington resident who has since become a regular patron of Swank Specialty Produce’s seasonal dinner series, Swank Table. “It’s just fun to be outside with a lot of really interesting people that you would not get to meet otherwise.” Swank Table is one of a handful of dinners put on in the state’s hinterlands by top local farmers and chefs to show off home-grown produce, meats, cheeses and more.
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This page: Swank Table’s annual spring fling for 200 plus guests— Diner en Blanc in Loxahatchee
PHOTOGR APHY BY GYORGY PAPP PHOTOGR APHY
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This page, from top:
A plate of fresh oysters with a spicy garnish in a mini Mason jar; a crescent-row of chairs awaits beachy gourmands; red and yellow tomatoes, covered with leafy lettuce Opposite, from top:
Servers in denim add to the relaxed ambiance of an Oustanding in the Field event; guests gather at Lake Meadow Naturals Farm
You couldn’t see over the greens. It took me three days just to clean and Chop and Wash them. —Chef Ferrell Alvarez
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For Serious Foodies Outstanding in the Field —V A R I O U S FA R M S STATE W I D E —
PHOTOGR APHY BY HANNAH GLOGOWER, JIM DENEVAN
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he mountain of collard greens arrived on a January day in the back of a Jeep Liberty, stuffed floor to ceiling for the hour-long ride from Beasley Farm in Brooksville to Rooster and the Till, a 70-seat restaurant in Tampa’s Seminole Heights neighborhood. Once unloaded, the leafy summit took over the central bar. “You couldn’t see over the greens,” recalls executive chef Ferrell Alvarez of his preparations last winter for a one-night dinner hosted at the 18-acre family farm. “It took me three days just to clean and chop and wash them.” As Alvarez knows, feeding 175 foodies paying nearly $200 per ticket—some of whom have
Above: Chicks and chickens at Lake Meadow Naturals Farm Below: Loading guests’ plates with outstandingly fresh goodness
flown in from Illinois or Connecticut just for supper—would challenge even the most seasoned chef. But diners at Outstanding in the Field, a roving international farm dinner series that will host six Florida dates this winter, see only the end result: a long, artfully arranged table set in a pastoral paradise, its white tablecloth and tidy place settings juxtaposed against verdant vegetable fields and a jewel-blue sky. On the table, four painstakingly crafted courses beckon, created from locally sourced ingredients by some of the state’s best chefs. Roasted beets atop a bed of mini red romaine. Fall-apart-tender pork shoulder humanely raised on a nearby estate. Grilled squid tossed with gigante beans and eggplant. What can’t be prepared ahead of time is cooked on-site, using just a charcoal grill and a couple of burners. “Just because we don’t have [the means] to cook an elaborate meal doesn’t mean that the guests should suffer,” Alvarez says. Host farms for this season’s lineup include a fourth-generation seafood purveyor in Apalachicola, an egg, poultry and meat producer in Ocoee and a certified organic vegetable farm in Alachua County’s tiny Island Grove. Each venue features a different Florida chef, from awardwinning Greg Richie of Soco in Orlando to Kenny Gilbert, whose cooking C.V. includes the James Beard House in New York and his own Gilbert’s Underground Kitchen in Fernandina Beach. Alvarez will again take the helm alongside the antique tractors and lush fields of Beasley Farm— bringing with him one key lesson learned last season at the foot of his vegetable Everest. This year, he says, “I’m not doing greens.”
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OUTSTANDING IN THE FIELD — PRICE— $190 TO $220 PER PERSON —SCHEDULE — SIX DINNERS FROM JAN. 21 TO JAN. 30 — DURATION — 5 HOURS — RAIN OR SHINE — YES — LIVE MUSIC — NO — DIETARY ALLOWANCES — LIMITED, WITH ADVANCE NOTICE — ALCOHOL — WELCOME DRINK, LOCAL BEER AND WINE PAIRINGS INCLUDED outstanding inthefield.com
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For eclectic gourmets The Legend Series —JACKSON V I LLE —
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THE LEGEND SERIES — PRICE — $250 TO $400 PER PERSON —SCHEDULE — ONE DINNER IN JANUARY (DATE ANNOUNCED AND TICKETS SOLD IN DECEMBER) — DURATION — 4 TO 5 HOURS — RAIN OR SHINE — YES — LIVE MUSIC — YES — DIETARY ALLOWANCES — NONE — ALCOHOL — COCKTAILS, BEER AND WINE PAIRINGS thelegend seriesjax.com
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eneath mossy oaks and a full moon, the diners huddled amid the tombstones in the soft glow of chandeliers, their conversation and clinking dishes punctuating the autumn gloom. Among the 160 warm bodies gathered for dinner that October night in Jacksonville’s Evergreen Cemetery, many more souls lay at rest, including generations of local residents, the city’s founding father and even two 19th-century Florida governors. By the light of day, the guests were gone— all traces of the graveyard gathering vanished like the footprints of a ghost. “We’re essentially creating a high-end experience absolutely from scratch in one day, and then breaking it down,” says Cari Sanchez-Potter, owner of The Legend Series, a program of pop-up dinners at unusual venues around Jacksonville. “[Each] event is literally never going to happen again.” That ethereal quality has made The Legend Series one of the hottest tickets in town. Its semi-annual gatherings sell out online in mere seconds—at around $300 per person. Diners purchase tickets without any knowledge of the event details other than the date, chefs involved, approximate location and suggested attire. The menu, theme, venue and entertainment are all kept secret until the morning of the dinner, when guests receive an email with location details. “Whether they admit it or not, I think people like the surprise,” says Scotty Schwartz, co-founder of the series and chef-owner of 29 South in Fernandina Beach. “You don’t know what to expect until you show up.” The events’ minimum five-course menus are as varied as their venues, with past dinners ranging from an urban feast of octopus sashimi, tomato juice spaghetti and potatocrusted sable in a downtown parking garage to a black-tie banquet of butter-poached lobster tail and stuffed duck in an abandoned 1920s-era skyscraper. Carefully curated décor and entertainment complete each evening’s
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It’s like a ballet, Everybody just falls Top left:
The Legend Series at the Evergreen Cemetary in Jacksonville Above:
Diners are delighted by the mystery location— The old Barnett Building in Jacksonville. Opposite, clockwise, from top:
Punch bowl panache in the cemetary; a menu from the Legend Series’ White Oak party; a tablescape from the White Oak event; Chefs Brian Whittington and Craig Richards work in tandem perfecting plates for White Oak.
theme: Burlesque performers, break dancers, and even graveside historical reenactors have all taken a turn on the Legend Series stage. But the real performance is in the makeshift kitchen, where rotating guest chefs join the core group of five regulars—including Schwartz, Tom Gray of Jacksonville’s Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails, and Waylon Rivers of Black Sheep Restaurant in Jax’s Five Points neighborhood. “It’s like a ballet,” Schwartz says. “Everybody just falls into their positions and we’re all having fun.”
into their positions and we’re all having fun PHOTOGR APHY BY AGNES LOPEZ, JAMIE BORL AND, MARK BRIAN
—Chef Scotty Schwartz
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if they were all the same it could get boring. it really is a beautiful experience. — Jodi Swank
Higgins at Swank Table’s 3 Little Pigs party; in April, 250 guests mingled amongst the wildflowers at the 3 Little Pigs fete; feeding the music lovers in the crowd; a toast at Diner en Blanc in Loxahatchee; palatepleasing apps
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PHOTOGR APHY BY GYORGY PAPP
This page, clockwise, from top: Chef Jarod
For Culinary Revelers Swank Table —L O X A H ATC H E E —
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ards of sheer white fabric drape the rafters, giving the open-air barn the soaring majesty of a cathedral. On the hay below, a congregation gathers: 240 guests dressed all in white, seated at long tables illuminated by the flicker of candlelight. At one point in the evening, the masses all stand and twirl their napkins overhead, hundreds of white pinwheels lifted to the heavens. Each spring, the annual Diner en Blanc at Swank Specialty Produce in Loxahatchee brings the flavor of France to rural Palm Beach County. Borrowed from a pop-up dinner concept begun in Paris in the late 1980s, it’s the most popular of the nine themed dinners that the 20-acre farm hosts each season in its Swank Table series. “It’s just gorgeous,” says farm owner Jodi Swank. “That’s probably the event that sells out the quickest.”
Sellouts are commonplace at Swank Table, which pairs a festive atmosphere with a fourcourse meal prepared by an ever-changing array of some of South Florida’s best-known chefs. The dozens of chefs slated for this season—many of whom also purchase the farm’s produce for their restaurants—include Adrienne Grenier, who cut her teeth at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Los Angeles before taking the helm of 3030 Ocean in Fort Lauderdale; executive chef Jeremy Ford of Matador Room, a Latin-infused concept by renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at The Miami Beach Edition; and internationally trained Clayton Carnes of Cholo Soy Cocina in West Palm Beach. In addition to Diner en Blanc, this year’s supper themes include a ’70s disco night, where guests wear bellbottoms and dancing shoes; a Year of the This page, from Rooster Chinese New Year top right: Succulent pork celebration complete with at 3 Little Pigs; cocktails bloom dancers in traditional lion at Diner en Blanc costumes; and the return Left: Roasted purple of Gauchos Asados—a potatoes at 3 South-American-inspired Little Pigs barbeque that previously featured whole lamb roasted over a fire. “If they were all the same, they could get boring,” Swank says. “It is a really beautiful experience.”
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SWANK TABLE — PRICE — $160 PER PERSON —SCHEDULE — NINE DINNERS FROM DEC. 18 THROUGH APRIL 23 — DURATION — 4 HOURS — RAIN OR SHINE — YES — LIVE MUSIC — YES — DIETARY ALLOWANCES — NONE; ONE VEGETARIAN DINNER PER SEASON (MARCH 26) — ALCOHOL — WELCOME VODKA COCKTAIL, LOCAL BEER TASTING AND WINE PAIRINGS swankspecialty produce.com
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For True Locavores Swallowtail Farm —ALACH UA —
W SWALLOWTAIL FARM — PRICE — $95 PER PERSON —SCHEDULE — SIX DINNERS FROM DEC. 10 THROUGH JUNE 3 — DURATION — 5 ½ HOURS — RAIN OR SHINE — YES — LIVE MUSIC — YES — DIETARY ALLOWANCES — LIMITED, WITH ADVANCE NOTICE — ALCOHOL — COCKTAIL, LOCAL BEER AND ORGANIC WINE swallowtailcsa.com
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hile most farm kitchens strive to source local ingredients, few go to the same lengths as Swallowtail Farm, a 30-acre expanse of oak-studded hills in north central Florida. At Swallowtail’s seasonal Farm to Table Dinner Series, all of the produce, meats, dairy and herbs—even the flowers for table centerpieces— come exclusively from the homestead and its neighbors. The lettuce, squash, eggplant and garlic grow in the nearby fields; the heritage-breed pork spends its life foraging in the regarded locals like Jeff Allen of This page, clockwise farm’s fertile soil; the cheese originates Gainesville’s Dragonfly Sushi and from top: Cabbage burst; farm friends from the creamery behind the barn. both Amanda Bisson and Cassie in sunny bouquets; Must-have items not produced in the Lycan of Fables Catering a sprout appetizer atop a drizzled glass immediate area, such as salt, sugar and & Such—meet with Jaskiel a plate; learning about flour, often come from a local-owned week or two in advance of the Swallowtail Farm, near Alachua, from supermarket, keeping more dollars in dinner for an update on the farmer Noah Shitama Opposite, clockwise the community. veggies, fruits and meat that will from top: Shouldering “We’re very, very strict about not comprise the four-course meal. leafy greens; a dreamy backdrop for a meal; serving something we don’t grow or Sometimes the sweet potato robust radishes; somebody doesn’t grow nearby,” says crop isn’t producing as much as checking out the ingredients Joelle Jaskiel, who coordinates the expected, or the pig harvest yields dinners. “I really push the chefs to just 30 pounds of pork to feed be explorative and maybe substitute the 100 diners, or the beets are things that they might not normally go for so we coming in larger than anticipated. can have a true farm-to-table event.” For Lycan, the forced spontaneity—coupled The hyperlocal focus can present some with the challenge of the farm kitchen’s limited challenges for guest chefs, who must adjust refrigeration space and cooking equipment— their menus according to what’s available. The isn’t a bad thing. rotating chefs—which this season include well“It’s so special to be out there and have everybody that’s eating the dinner excited to have local food that was picked fresh,” she says. “If I had the ultimate place I would want to cook, that would be my setting.” And who can blame her: Once diners assemble around the harvest table—the sprays of blossoms picked from the adjacent fields settled into Mason jars, the food grown from the ground underfoot arranged on platters for sharing, the surrounding hills gradually turning from green to golden in the sunset—it is impossible to miss the sheer unadultured beauty of the local bounty. “I like to show people what [foods] they can get in their area,” Jaskiel says, “and what is possible, really.”
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PHOTOGR APHY BY MICHAEL SCHURR, NOAH SHITAMA , ONNA ME YER
we’re very, very strict about not serving something we don’t grow or somebody doesn’t grow nearby. — Joelle
Jaskiel
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The rod p Girl Club
Don’t ask them where the boys are. These reel lady anglers run boats, spear fish, land lobsters and hope to pass along their love of the sea to their daughters. Opposite:
A Caribbean spiny lobster Above:
(Clockwise) Brooke Lavelle, Jennifer Stein and Autumn BoweRhoads gaze at approaching storm clouds.
By KATIE HENDRICK Photograghy by MARY BETH KOETH
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F This Page:
(Clockwise) Stein feels a bite; attaching bait; BoweRhoads and Lavelle pause from the action; spooling a spinning reel Opposite:
(Clockwise) An afficionado’s tacklebox; BoweRhoads and Lavelle cast into the Atlantic Ocean; Bowe-Rhoads unhooks a trash fish; a pregnant Lavelle laughs as her friends bust a move.
ive hours into a multi-course, homemade meal of watermelon salad, fried lobster and panko-encrusted yellowtail, chased with craft beer, jovial conversation and spirited rounds of Cards Against Humanity (an R-rated word association game), Brooke Lavelle’s iPhone abruptly quits playing her Sublime Pandora station. The screen shows the familiar prompt “Are you still listening?” that appears when fun distracts her from actively evaluating songs. It also reveals the time (1:45 a.m.). Six months pregnant with her second child and the ringleader of the feisty female foursome gathered at her weekend Key Largo home, she shuts down the revelry and sends her friends to bed, lest they miss their 6 a.m. wakeup call to go fishing and lobstering. Due to last night’s overindulgence, the group oversleeps, but only by half an hour. The women make up for it by hurriedly dressing in swimsuits, shorts and lightweight tops, guzzling some coffee and grabbing a piece of fruit. Just as the cotton candy-like sunrise streams into the house, they’re trotting downstairs toward the dock. “This isn’t a typical Saturday,” Lavelle says, “at least not during lobster season” (August 6 through March 31). Usually, around midnight, Lavelle and crew find shallow water and go bully netting with a 6-foot-long, wide-mouth web and special lights—used to spot crustaceans crawling out of their holes then cover, drag and scoop ‘em out of the water. They’re often out on the boat until the wee hours and in bed until late morning. This Saturday, August 27, they’re altering their routine due to a ferocious-looking storm system. It’s what will become Hurricane Hermine and hit Florida’s big bend six days later. The forecast would inspire many people to call off the trip, but these women, all in their mid-30s, know how difficult it can be to reschedule girls’ getaways amid family and work obligations and major life events (including one woman’s September wedding and Lavelle’s December due-date). With radar screens at the ready, they’re mindful of Mother Nature, but unwilling to let her preemptively rain on their lobstering and fishing parade. By 7 a.m., the women are out on Lavelle’s
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20-foot SeaCraft, cruising through Blackwater Sound toward Florida Bay. With the first splash of sea spray, they seem fully resurrected. “I love being the first one out on the water,” says Jenny Stein, a marine biologist in Marathon, inhaling a big breath of salty air. That reverie is short-lived, however. Soon, they pass a boat packed with men who whistle then holler, “Where the guys at?” The afternoon before, they received similar catcalls from two other groups. “Ticks me off,” Lavelle says. “I have dozens of female friends who love to fish, lobster, shrimp, snorkel, dive, etc. We don’t need our husbands or boyfriends holding our hands to do any of it.” Eager to revive the lighthearted mood, Autumn Bowe-Rhoads, a realtor in Palm Beach Gardens who’s adept with a rod, tickle stick and spear gun, fishes her iPod out of her dry bag. She picks a playlist (’90s hip hop), hits play and bobs her head as Young MC raps, this here’s a tale for all the fellas… This page:
(From left) Unpacking the gear; Stein, Bowe-Rhoads and Lavelle show off their catches. Opposite:
(From top) Casey McLaughlin, Bowe-Rhoads and Stein look for lobster near Blackwater Sound.
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Ticks me off. We don’t need our husbands or boyfriends holding our hands to do any of it. —Brooke lavelle
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Nothing compares to spending time with girlfriends doing what you love most. —casey mclaughlin
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A Seafaring Sisterhood Growing up in Pompano Beach, Casey McLaughlin, now an insurance agent in Deerfield Beach, has been fishing almost as long as she’s been walking. “My mom taught me,” she says. On her phone, she carries evidence of her first catch: a scanned photo showing a grinning, towheaded toddler with a prize bass. A competitive angler vying to catch a record weight swordfish on a line with a breaking strength of six pounds, McLaughlin has entered tournaments throughout South Florida and the Keys since she was 18. Her all-time favorite is the Ladies Fish-Off, a women-only event in Lighthouse Point that raises money for oceanic organizations and local charities. She’s hooked on the camaraderie. She has no qualms competing This page: against men, “but nothing Bowe-Rhoads compares to spending learned to spear fish 10 years ago. time with girlfriends doing “When you’ve been what you love most,” she fishing forever, you look for new ways says, while she spools her to do it,” she says. spinning reel. “That’s why Opposite: weekends like this are so Find the women’s favorite lobster special.” recipe at flamingomag.com Statewide, there are nearly 333,000 women with saltwater fishing licenses and 56,000 with lobstering licenses, according to the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. Several of them hold world records “and numerous prestigious awards,” says Donna Wilson, president of the International Women’s Fishing Association, founded in 1955 in Palm Beach Gardens. Proud to be part of this outdoorsy troop, Lavelle grew up lobstering with her uncle and brother. “My mother worried every time I got in the water,” she says. “She was convinced it was dangerous for women.” Preaching that waterways are safe environments everyone should explore, Lavelle, a stayat-home mother in Lighthouse Point, gives her 3-year-old daughter regular guided boat rides. “I call it ‘Ecology 101,’” she says. “We look at iguanas and fish. She can identify the difference between a sailfish and a swordfish.”
NO NO NO NO
BOAT? EQUIPMENT? EXPERIENCE? PROBLEM!
Our fishing sisterhood says it’s easy to find a good lobstering instructor in the Keys, just by going in to the local dive shops. But for ladies who need a more concrete plan or a different location, here are two ways to get hooked on watery pursuits Ladies, Let’s Go Fishing!
During weekend workshops held around the state, captains teach novice anglers the basics, like how to attach a lure and how to back up a trailer. This “hands-on, no yelling” program includes a party and a trip on a charter boat and strives to connect like-minded women, says founder Betty Bauman. ladiesletsgofishing .com
FWC Women’s Fishing Clinics
Offered in Cedar Key, Crystal River, Sebastian, Panama City and Jacksonville, these oneday, shore-based state government-run clinics introduce participants to saltwater fishing and educate them to be responsible stewards of Florida’s marine resources. myfwc.com
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“Fishing is not glamorous,” she says. “I have three piles of shirts at home: long sleeve, short sleeve and stained with fish guts.” To this, Lavelle laughs and raises a block of frozen glass minnows she’s about to toss overboard. “Oh yeah! Chum is chic,” she says. “And don’t forget the hair,” Bowe-Rhoads adds, motioning to her tangled mane. “Wind and salt water do it no favors.” McLaughlin tells her friends she has a big communal bottle of leave-in conditioner in her dry bag. “That’s just another perk of boating with women,” Lavelle says. “We always come prepared!”
The Underwater Utopia
It’s Lavelle’s mission to empower her daughter (and baby no. 2) to feel capable on and in the water. Already, her daughter is a proficient swimmer who knows how to breathe out of a snorkel. On her last birthday, she asked her mom how much longer she has to wait to drive a boat. “She shouldn’t be intimidated of stereotypically ‘guy’ activities,” Lavelle says. “I want her to know happiness comes from doing what she loves, be it traveling or fishing.” McLaughlin has the same attitude rearing her own 3-year-old daughter. “I want her to appreciate the water and the creatures in it,” she says. “She got her first snapper this summer and couldn’t have been prouder. Her excitement brought me such joy.” Additionally, McLaughlin wants her daughter to know it’s fun to get dirty and disheveled.
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For aquatic adventurers, few places compare to the Florida Keys, the women insist. A big reason is the Florida Reef, which extends roughly 150 miles from the Dry Tortugas up to about Soldier Key and is nearly four miles wide in some areas. “It’s big—the third largest barrier reef in the world,” a fact trumpeted not nearly enough, says Stein, who studies this natural treasure on a daily basis and helps restore damaged sections by planting harvested coral. Estimated to be 3,000 years old, the Florida Reef has 45 species of stony corals (the colorful types with a brain-like aesthetic) and “thousands upon thousands” of species of fauna, Stein says. “It’s like an underwater rainforest.” The reef’s biological diversity attracts organisms of all shapes and sizes, from shrimp and snails to grouper and sharks. Legions of lobsters burrow in the reef, as well as in shipwrecks, craters and ledges along the Keys’ many shallow, rocky surfaces. Except for restricted areas, page: the Florida Reef is excellent This McLaughlin for spearfishing, one of Bowe- enjoys a moment of Rhoads’s favorite pastimes. She zen on the boat’s bow. took it up about 10 years ago, Opposite: intrigued by some guy friends Savoring the she saw do it on freediving and sunrise as they cast off scuba trips. from Lavelle’s “There’s a tomboy side of me dock
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that always wants to do what the boys are doing,” she says of her initial interest. Her friends taught her to load a spear gun, stalk a fish, aim, unstring her catch and carry it back to the boat. “It took a lot of practice, exercises to build up my arm strength and many spears in the sand, but I had such a high when I finally got a fish,” she says. She loves the intimacy of spearfishing. “You’re face-to-face with a fish, so you know exactly what you’re about to catch and how big it is, which is great from a conservation standpoint,” she says, explaining that, on a boat, you can’t know for sure if the fish biting your line is a protected species, like goliath grouper (which can grow to be more than 600 pounds). “If you pull one to the surface, it could die.” There’s also adrenaline-fueled appeal, as a speared fish is like a dinner bell to sharks. (Her trick to ward off predators: “get vertical and make jabbing motions with your spear.”) Bowe-Rhoads describes her new, more intense passion as “a natural progression.” “When you’ve been fishing forever, you look for new ways to do it,” she explains. McLaughlin shakes her head “no” with conviction. She prefers staying on the surface, “away from sharks.” As a sport fisher, she’s drawn to the Keys’ many seamounts or humps. These underwater mountains force water to funnel around them, creating a current that draws baitfish to the surface, pursued by big gamefish, such as dolphin, wahoo, tuna, amberjack and marlin. When dedicating a day to lobstering, the group typically catches the limit (six per person), Lavelle says. Today, they manage only three before a rumbling charcoal sky drives them home a little before noon. This has no bearing on their dispositions, still buoyant and bouncing to the ’90s tunes. Their husbands might appraise a trip by their haul, but these ladies define success differently. The captain, resting a hand on her growing belly, smiles and thanks the women for joining her for the girls’ weekend. “Hanging out on a boat with your close friends—how could that be anything but good?”
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[
MY FLORIDA — sunshine state stor ies —
B y Tim Dorsey
Loxahatchee Lore
Enduring tales of the captivating outdoorsy hermit, Trapper Nelson
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uniforms and Buster Brown shoes and BandAids on our perpetually skinned knees. It was a small town called Riviera Beach, about an hour north of Miami, and it was the sixties. Some of my most powerful memories from that time come from the playground. The scuttlebutt around the monkey bars was the best—the scarier the story, the better. The most frightening tale of all was about the ultimate boogeyman. Trapper. Trapper was short for Trapper Nelson, a wild and crazy hermit who roamed in the remote woods way up the equally wild Loxahatchee
[
e’s big and hairy and smelly, and I think he’s killed a bunch of people,” said Tommy Davenport, dangling from the monkey bars. “He howls through the trees, and his eyes are crazy—like the devil!” “So you’ve really seen him?” I asked in firstgrade awe. “Are you kidding?” He dropped to the ground and scraped his knee. “Anyone who does see him is never heard from again.” There we were, during recess at Saint Francis Elementary, wearing our little Catholic school
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PHOTOGR APHY BY TIM DORSE Y (TOP LEFT AND BOT TOM RIGHT); NELSON FAMILY (TOP RIGHT)
Above: Trapper Nelson’s cabin; Nelson with a sailfish in 1952 Below: The author, age 9, fishes on the Loxahatchee River. Opposite: Nelson prepares his catch.
River, where almost nobody dared venture. And his legend lived, beyond the playground. In nearly every household in Palm Beach County, the parents talked about Trapper in ominous, hushed tones. That’s how it filtered down to the schoolyards. Every child who grew up in that time and place knew the story of Trapper. This was quite a phenomenon because Trapper wasn’t in the news during that era, and almost nobody could remember ever seeing him. It made the rumors all the more mysterious. He lived off the land, the myths said, eating raw possum and skinning alligators and just about anything else he could catch. He’d shoot on sight anyone who came near his camp—maybe skin them, too. The few people who’d gotten close enough by canoe reported seeing glimpses of a shadowy figure darting among the trees on shore, then hearing warning shots. He was known as the “Tarzan of the Loxahatchee.” The kids in the schoolyards loved that. The actual facts of this eventual Florida story are perhaps even more fascinating: Nobody knows for sure, but it seems that Trapper was born Vincent Nostokovich in New Jersey around 1909. He hopped freight trains, was jailed in Mexico and gambled his way to Florida. He ended up living on the beach near the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse, made money selling animal furs during the Depression, and bought cheap land as far up the Loxahatchee as was navigable, which meant no neighbors or anything else for miles. He wasn’t always anti-social. Trapper was tall and rugged, and, by hand, he cleared part of the land, built a makeshift dock, and used slash pine and mortar to construct cabins and shelters so sturdy that they easily weathered every hurricane. He built pens for some of the animals he captured alive and opened Trapper Nelson’s
Zoo and Jungle Gardens in the 1930s, where visitors on boat tours often stopped for lunch. Celebrities came, including actor Gary Cooper and boxing champ Gene Tunney. The sixties arrived, and while I was a scabbykneed school kid, Trapper’s hermit era was ushered in, along with a slew of rumors. His health declined, the state ordered his zoo closed due to poor conditions, and he fell behind on property taxes. Bitterness and paranoia took over, and he warned everyone to keep away—or
Wild nature—vines and brush—began taking over Trapper’s place. Then the sixties became the seventies... It was 1973. My scout group sent us to swim and canoe in the Loxahatchee—one of only two rivers in the state that are federally designated as Wild and Scenic Rivers. It is a short river as they go, running only 7.6 miles to its outflow into the Atlantic Ocean. Its name derives from the Seminole phrase meaning “River of Turtles.” The river runs through Jonathan Dickinson State Park, where every child in that era must have taken a dozen field trips. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t the troop’s plan, but a friend and I decided to paddle all the way up to the headwaters and find Trapper’s place. There were lots of gators in the water, and I oddly remember that it was no issue. The ones that came near the canoe got a paddle slapped flat in front of their heads, prompting a quick departure. We were only twelve years old, but we were gator-tough Floridians. With a few more strokes in the water around the final hairpin bend in the river, the real adventure began, clogged with marsh grass and bulrushes. We were at Trapper’s. If it wasn’t scary before, it was a horror by the time I got there. The place was a dump—the pier falling down and everything else overgrown by time. The eeriness of the scene was overwhelming, and our imaginations ran away with thoughts of a ghost slipping through the trees along the shore and watching our every move. That was enough to squash our precociousness and make us turn around in our vessel. The seventies became the eighties. Older kids and young adults were coming around, digging the place up for Trapper’s secret treasure,
PHOTOGR APHY BY NELSON FAMILY
He lived off the land, the myths said, eating raw possums and skinning alligators else. He was said to always carry a shotgun. Oh, and there was a secret treasure. Trapper’s notoriety took a tragic twist: In 1968, authorities discovered his body, killed by his own gun. Suicide was the official ruling of the police department, but the whispers suggested otherwise. Who shoots themselves with a shotgun in the stomach? Parents talked in hushed tones again, and speculation ran wild on the playgrounds. To this day, the case is still unsolved.
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J.L. BAINBRIDGE
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& C O M P A N Y, I N C . Investment Advisors since 1981
Portfolio Management Team From left to right, Robyn E. Messer, Fay E. Bainbridge, Kip D. Schoonover, Jerry L. Bainbridge, John B. Leeming, Jeanmarie Giambra, Joel G. Oldham and Jennifer D. Chauvel.
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Above: Nelson’s boat dock in 1958
only making the property look even worse. It took the state of Florida to discover the real treasure: remnants of Trapper’s pioneer homestead and survival-lifestyle out in one of our most remote and pure natural settings. The state acquired the land and commenced restoring it to its condition when Trapper tended the lot. The unbridled gnarliness of the wildman was toned down and faded into quaintness. Then it got exciting again. In April of 1984, rangers were repairing a chimney in one of the old cabins and were about to mortar a loose brick back into place. Then they realized it wasn’t loose from decay. It was a secret door. Trapper’s treasure was real. All told, they recovered more than 5,000 old gold and silver coins. If this had been a law enforcement press release on a cocaine seizure, they would have announced its value based upon selling it by the gram at street value. However, in Trapper’s case, they didn’t want another wave of trespassers digging up the place. So they said it was only worth about $1,800—the face value of the coins, like announcing a $20 gold-piece worth $1,600. You do the math. They were also forced to put out an official statement saying they had thoroughly searched the rest of the grounds and there
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was no more loot to be found. Fast-forward to early 2016, when I was outlining a future novel drawing upon my childhood memories. Of course, Trapper would have to be in there. I checked the Internet, and to my surprise, I discovered the state park was now giving boat tours up to the legendary grounds. So I packed up the car and drove across the state. Soon I was boarding a pontoon boat that journeyed up that alligator-infested river, snaking around bend after narrow bend like I was twelve again, back in that canoe. Except this time, I went ashore. I saw the wildlife pens, the homemade water tower, and Trapper’s cabin with a bleached alligator skull mounted on the wall and a hand-painted “Hurricane Log” of all the storms he had survived out in the middle of nowhere. And, last but not least, I got to see and touch the chimney where they discovered Trapper’s infamous loot. I probably wasn’t supposed to touch the chimney, but I found myself reverently running my fingers along the old bricks. I cracked a wry smile remembering how everyone always said Trapper was crazy. Yeah, a crazy kind of genius who continues to keep us mesmerized.
PHOTOGR APHY BY ERNEST AND THERESA WOLESL AGLE
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sunshine state stor ies
— Fine arts, favor ites, f lings —
ON THE FLY — PLUME —
Must-Reads from a Literary Master
— CULTURE —
Ly r i c s , L e g a c i e s a n d L o v e
— BIRD’S EYE — T h e B e s t o f Wi n t e r P a r k
— GROVE STAND —
Meal Maestro Melds European and Floridian Flair
— FLORIDA WILD —
C h r o n i c l i n g t h e S t a t e ’s N a t u r a l M a j e s t y
— THE ROOST — Rustic Real Estate
— THE TIDE —
PHOTOGR APHY BY MARY BETH KOETH
E v e n t s Wo r t h Ta k i n g a L o n g D r i v e
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ON THE FLY:PLUME
Bookworm’s Blend An eclectic stack from a history junkie
W
ith his mix of history and intrigue, Brad Meltzer knows how to thrill readers. In fact, two of his books have reached the No. 1 spot on the New York Times bestseller list (The Inner Circle and The Book of Fate). Several more of his books, thrillers and non-fiction works alike, have also landed on the coveted list. This summer, the prolific writer launched a historical mystery series with writer Tod Goldberg. A family man at heart, the Miamian also digs sharing history with tykes, as his children’s picture book series has sold more than one million books. Check out some of Meltzer’s favorite reads that he didn’t write.
1. Washington: A Life by Ron Chernow
“I never get tired of him. Still the President with the greatest faith in us.” (PENGUIN PRESS,
PHOTOGR APHY BY JESSIE PREZA
2010)
Hey, Meltzer, who’s your role model? “Jim Henson is one of my personal heroes. Jim Henson: The Biography by Brian Jay Jonas is so, so, gee…good.”
2. Originals: How Non-Conformists Move the World
4. Manhunt: The 12-Day Chase for Lincoln’s Killer by James L. Swanson
“Grant is just the best social scientist, with the best lessons for your own life.”
“The true story of John Wilkes Booth and the death of Abraham Lincoln, with every great detail you never knew.”
(VIKING, 2016)
(HARPER PERENNIAL,
by Adam Grant
3. Before the Fall by Noah Hawley
“Love the Fargo TV show? Then go love this.” (GRAND CENTRAL, 2016)
2006)
5. American Gods by Neil Gaiman
“You’ll never look at the Midwest—or a tourist trap—the same way again.” (WILLIAM MORROW, 2016)
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ON THE FLY:CULTURE B y Va n essa G a rci a
suite LOVE
The theme song for this Miamian’s life has a surprising twist, and so does her personal journey
IN
1969, ten years after the first wave of Cuban refugees started hitting Florida’s shores, Crosby, Stills & Nash released a single called “Suite: Judy Blue Eyes.” Stephen Stills, who wrote the song, said it was originally a poem about the singer-songwriter Judy Collins, known for her folksy vocals, social activism and piercing pool-blue eyes. Stills and Collins dated for a while, and, from the lyrics, we can only imagine that their love affair was a complicated one. I get it. I get it because, for me, that song has always been about Cuba and the complex way its exiles love it. Cuba is actually in the lyrics. Not very many people know it’s there because the verse takes about seven minutes to get to, but because I’m a Cuban-American from Miami and the daughter of two Cuban émigrés, those lyrics resonate the most. For me, the last four stanzas that Stills sings in Spanish, after waxing poetic about Judy for a good, long while—they are the song. Imperfect Spanish is used intentionally because Stills wanted the song to be cryptic, leading to multiple interpretations. Stills might mean something along the lines of: “How nice it would be to take you to Cuba/The queen of the Caribbean Sea/I only want to visit you there/
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And how sad that I can’t, I can’t go! Gooo!” What I hear, though, is: “How beautiful, Cuba, the queen of the Caribbean Sea, how sad that I can’t return to you.” My translation is not about taking a woman to Cuba; it’s about Cuba herself being unattainable, which is something I heard growing up. Cuba was the place my parents and other Cuban exiles escaped, the place they would not return to until Fidel Castro died, the place the United States embargoed, the place they missed so much, the place that broke their hearts. Could Stills have known all of this and, for this reason, placed that lyric there, intentionally paralleling an exile’s love for Cuba with Stills’s own love for Judy? It’s not as crazy as it sounds. For a long time, I thought the verse might have had something to do with CSN’s percussionist, Joe Lala, who passed away in 2014. Lala spoke Spanish and was a Tampa boy. He was born in Ybor City, home of one of the best known Cuban-American enclaves in the country. Though Lala was Sicilian, he spoke both Italian and Spanish fluently. It’s easy to imagine that the nostalgia of the Cubans he was raised around made its way into his music and, by creative osmosis, into “Suite: Judy Blue Eyes.” One problem with my theory about Lala is that Stills and Lala might not have met until
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after the song was produced. So the mysterious verse might all have come from Stills himself, who spent a lot of time as a kid in Gainesville and Tampa. He even played at the Palatka prom and attended the University of Florida, which he dropped out of to become a rock star. The open question doesn’t bother me, though. In fact, all of these questions enrich the song for me, bringing it even closer to home, which, I think, was Stills’s intention. I first heard “Suite: Judy Blue Eyes” in the late ’80s, sitting in the passenger seat of my dad’s Bronco, riding around Little Havana. I was just under 10 years old. My dad, with his Jerry Garcia salt-and-pepper hair, jammed so hard in that car that his mop always seemed to be dancing as we drove. Dad’s Bronco was the place where I was introduced to all the classics I still love. Otis Redding, Janis Joplin, Celia Cruz, Benny Moré, and, of course, CSN. They all merged in that truck, bringing Cuba and the United States into a choral conversation. It was music that allowed my dad to
was someone I had great affection for, but he wanted me to choose between him and my writing career, or, as he called it, my “art.” It took me ten years to finally leave the relationship. I stayed so long because I was used to love being
He was a big man of even bigger passions, who ate too much, probably drank too much, laughed a lot, cried a little, and died young.
ue
Ey
es
difficult. It was the lens I inherited from my father, the same one I saw CSN through. Thankfully, that lens has changed over time. Or maybe it just developed with exposure to life. In any case, I no longer think love has to be so hard.
I’ve been to Cuba twice—without my dad—and though loving Cuba is still not easy, it’s at least possible to touch, with both feet on the ground. I don’t think it’s a coincidence that, as Cuba and the United States begin their journey toward reconciliation after almost six decades, I, too, have learned to love more calmly. I’m getting married in December, and the wedding bells this time are crisp and clear. I am his, he is mine. We are what we are. It’s a lot easier. Though my fiancé is not Cuban, early in our relationship I played “Suite: Judy Blue Eyes” for him and explained to him what I heard in the song. Like many people, he’d noticed the Spanish verse at the end, but never knew what to make of it, until I decoded it for him. He loved my interpretation, and he understood me better after hearing it. That’s the thing about good music: it teaches you through time. “Suite: Judy Blue Eyes” may not always be as sweet as it is smart, but that’s because it’s not just a song; it’s a suite. By definition, a suite, in music, brings together separate pieces and unifies them into a single song. Suites, in other words, take time to unravel and put back together.
Bl
bridge his Cuban past to his American present. When Peter Frampton played on the stereo, Dad told me to listen to the guitar, because Frampton “made it talk.” I can still hear my father’s voice now: Listen. Listen to what the guitar is saying. When Celia Cruz would sing, he’d sing along, too, even when she spoke at the end of her albums and said, with a thick accent: “My English is not very good looking.” All of this is probably why it seemed totally normal to me when Stills brought Spanish into the mix at the end of the song. What I heard was my Cuban-American father’s presence in Stills’s voice, calling for the island, pining for what he could not dare to touch but could only try to remember. The children of exiles learn quickly: Love is hard, both in music and in real life. I always felt that my father couldn’t quite grasp love, that it was a very slippery fish for him. He was a big man of even bigger passions, who ate too much, probably drank too much, laughed a lot, cried a little, and died young. “Suite: Judy Blue Eyes” was the musical embodiment of my father: always longing, always stuck, trying to mash the stanzas of his life together but forever finding his final verse in Cuba. Early in my life, I was just like my father, at least when it came to love. My first husband
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ON THE FLY:BIRD’S EYE VIEW
A WA L K I N G G U I D E TO O U R FAVO R I T E N E I G H B O R H O O DS
Peacock Pretty Green spaces, gorgeous shops and gourmet spots make Winter Park a must-do destination.
1. CHARLES HOSMER MORSE MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART Houses
the most comprehensive collection of Louis Comfort Tiffany art, including stained glass windows, lamps and jewels. 445 N. Park Ave.
2. BRIARPATCH Turns out American classics like burgers and buttermilk pancakes, earning its rep for “the best brunch” on Park Ave. 252 N. Park Ave. 3. PRATO Chef-driven Italian eatery featuring house-made pasta, wood-fire grill and a menu that changes daily. 124 N. Park Ave. 4. WINTER PARK BOAT TOUR Winds through canopied canals and explores the shores of the Winter Park Chain of Lakes. 312 E. Morse Blvd.
5. BARNIE’S KITCHEN COFFEE Java
joint serves up micro-roasted coffee creations and gourmet food selections. 118 S. Park Ave.
6. JOHN CRAIG The flagship location of
this independent clothier outfits well-dressed men across Central Florida. 132 S. Park Ave.
7. THE GROVE Pretty, preppy and posh,
this women’s shop carries adorable clothing, accessories and gifts. 121 E. Welbourne Ave.
9. LUMA ON PARK Casual-chic restaurant provides lawn views, an extensive wine menu and seasonal eats. 290 S. Park Ave. 10. ALFOND INN Boutique hotel, owned by Rollins College, boasts contemporary art collection, pristine pool and tranquil grounds. 300 E. New England Ave.
11. ROLLINS COLLEGE The picturesque liberal arts college anchors this historic neighborhood. 1000 Holt Ave.
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12. GROUNDING ROOTS Tiny but beloved outpost delights with a healthy chocolate shake made with almond milk, cocoa, avocado, dates and ice. 307 S. Park Ave.
14. FARMER’S MARKET On Saturdays, a
13. RIFLE PAPER CO. Vibrant, whimsical
15. CENTRAL PARK Old oaks and roses flank
hand-drawn prints and patterns by a local stationer has a national following. 558 W. New England Ave.
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bustling collection of food trucks, stalls and tents includes everything from homemade cookies to orchids and garden plants. 200 W. New England Ave.
this 11-acre green space in the heart of the city, which has the peacock as its symbol. Morse Blvd. & Park Ave.
ILLUSTR ATION BY LESLIE CHALFONT
8. WINE ROOM Wine-dispensing machines, fitted with nearly 160 bottles of international vino, pour tasting sizes for the aficionado or the lush. 270 S. Park Ave.
ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS B y L a u ra R ei l ey
Above (left to right): A three-flag salute at Prato; a table set for six overlooks a bustling Winter Park shopping district; Executive Chef Brandon McGlamery
PHOTOGR APHY BY MICHAEL PISARRI
EuroSMASH
Prato’s chef Brandon McGlamery combines his well-honed French, Italian and Californian techniques in his Winter Park foodie haven
T
he servers wear lumbersexual shirts and speak at length about the basil gnocchetti with surf clams and Calabrian chilies while artfully uncorking a Sicilian Nero d’Avola or a Negroamaro from Apulia. On a nice day, with the wide front windows thrown open to the busy street, the only tipoff that this is Central Florida is a wall of bromeliads and a little telltale humidity. The cool and unpretentious yet sophisticated vibe of Winter Park’s Prato, open since 2011, suits its Executive Chef, 43-year-old Brandon McGlamery. “It is completely wood-
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fired, with Acunto oak-burning ovens and very much a peasant American version of Italian food with a wine list that is all Italian and Spanish. Cooking should be about what captivates your heart and your soul. That is what I try to express to people about Prato,” explains McGlamery. Though McGlamery was a nonfoodie growing up in Naples and St. Petersburg, he recalls that his dad bribed him to try his first oyster with the promise of a new skateboard deck (“a Powell Peralta Lance Mountain design, if I remember correctly”). McGlamery discovered
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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS
on Europe, working in Paris for Restaurant Guy Savoy and in London at Gordon Ramsey’s Michelin three-starred restaurant. While abroad, he got a call from a friend: Would he come help open Luma on Park in Winter Park, just for six weeks? Eleven years later, he’s still there, and Winter Park has grown up around him. Luma is Prato’s sister restaurant, and McGlamery is at the helm of both. He’s also working on opening Luke’s Kitchen and Bar (continued on page 100)
Roasted Butternut Squash Salad with Burrata and Pistachios and Brown Butter Vinaigrette Serves 4
ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH 1/2 Above: Prato Meatballs; Opposite: Widowmaker
PHOTOGR APHY BY MICHAEL PISARRI
Pizza
his affinity for what goes into making delicious food after he dropped out of college and headed to the California Culinary Academy, in San Francisco. From there, his resume reads like a who’s who of Northern California’s toughest reservations—Stars, Chez Panisse, the French Laundry, Delfina, Fifth Floor, Jardinière. The West Coast definitely made its mark on Prato. “It’s going full circle back to that wood fire at Chez Panisse or Delfina,” he acknowledges. When asked whether Alice Waters or Thomas Keller was the greater taskmaster, McGlamery quickly responds, “Chez Panisse was a country club for chefs. They went there to work on their golf stroke. The French Laundry was like a competitive residency to become a good doctor. Working for Keller was like studying underneath a very intense surgeon.” McGlamery eventually set his sights
peeled and scooped-out butternut squash, cubed into 1 inch pieces canola oil to roast salt and black pepper to taste
PREPARATION: Heat oven to 400 degrees, while tossing cubed squash with drizzles of canola oil and salt and pepper. Roast squash for about 20 minutes or until nicely caramelized and easily pierced with a knife, and then cool to room temperature.
BROWN BUTTER VINAIGRETTE 1/4 1/4 1/8
Pompano with Charred Tomatoes and Scallions and Artichoke-Olive Relish Serves 4
SEARED POMPANO
4 6 ounce fillets, with skin Extra virgin olive oil for searing PREPARATION: Drizzle a non-stick pan with olive oil and sear the pompano skinside down for 3 to 5 minutes on medium heat, then flip and finish cooking for 2 minutes.
CHARRED TOMATOES AND SCALLIONS
2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved 24 scallions, cleaned and trimmed 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 lemon PREPARATION: Toss the tomatoes and scallions in the olive oil, then char them in a hot pan. Remove from heat. Let cool and season with 1/4 lemon right before serving.
ARTICHOKE-OLIVE RELISH
2 artichoke hearts, grilled 1/8 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted 1/8 cup Sicilian olives, pitted 1 anchovy fillet, crushed 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil Handful basil leaves to garnish PREPARATION: Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Salt to taste. Hand-tear a few basil leaves and sprinkle on top.
stick butter cup extra virgin olive oil cup Italian red wine vinegar salt and black pepper to taste
PREPARATION: Brown the butter in a pan and let cool. Next, combine the melted butter with the olive oil in a bowl and slowly whisk in the vinegar. Season to taste.
Below: Pompano with Charred Tomatoes and Scallions and Artichoke-Olive Relish
SALAD WITH BURRATA AND PISTACHIOS 1/2 cup red onion, julienned 2 cups arugula 4 ounces burrata cheese 1 cup toasted pistachios, crushed
PREPARATION: After the squash cools, toss arugula, red onion, and squash with vinaigrette and plate. Top each salad with 1 ounce burrata, and then 1/4 cup of toasted pistachios. Season with black pepper.
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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS
Lemon Curd and Shortbread Torte with Strawberries Serves 4
LEMON CURD
6 egg yolks 6 eggs 1 1/2 cups sugar 1 cup lemon juice 1/4 cup lemon zest pinch of salt 1 packet Knox gelatin 8 tablespoons butter, cubed then softened 4 tablespoons water PREPARATION: While the gelatin is soaking in water, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar. Next, whisk in lemon juice, zest, and salt. Put the mix in a double boiler and gently cook the curd for approximately 7 to 10 minutes while whisking, until it’s thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove the mixture from heat, fold in the bloomed gelatin, and whisk in the softened butter. Strain it all though a fine sieve.
Above: Lemon Curd and Shortbread Torte with Strawberries; Below: Al fresco at Prato; Opposite:
Roasted Butternut Squash Salad with Burrata, Pistachios and Brown Butter Vinaigrette
Farmers, anglers, ranchers and artisanal food businesses have flourished, and they’re supplying his restaurants. “Anything you do needs to have some level of approachability and reckoning. Let’s give ALMOND SHORTBREAD CRUST them what they want with a twist,” McGlamery 1 stick butter, room temperature says of his philosophy. He’s trying to defy 1 cup powdered sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla paste expectations and push the boundaries, but not 4 cups all-purpose flour in a contrived way. 1 cup marcona almonds, People seem to understand his finely ground PRATO mouth-watering message as they 1/2 teaspoon salt — LOCATION — 4 strawberries, stemmed lift forkfuls of rustic meatballs 124 NORTH PARK AVENUE and sliced, for garnish WINTER PARK from a pool of roasted tomato — HOURS — sauce to their lips. PREPARATION: Cream LUNCH WED-SUN: 11:30 A.M.–3:00 P.M. To make the succulent pork butter in a large bowl with an DINNER MON-SAT: 5:30–11 P.M. electric mixer. Add powdered SUN: 5:30–10 P.M. taglio and flat iron bistecca sugar and mix well. Next, prato-wp.com happen, as well as ensure that the mix in vanilla paste and add variations of house-made pasta the flour, almonds and salt. (gnocchetti, campanelle, torchio) Remove dough from mixer and flatten on a plastic surface to 1/2-inch thickness. are just right, McGlamery splits his time Cool for anywhere from 4 to 48 hours in between Luma and Prato. Luke’s will add a the refrigerator. When ready to make the third stop to his day. crust, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. “I have to give room for the chefs de Remove the flattened dough, and flatten further to 1/4-inch thickness. Place dough cuisine to grow,” he says. “It’s about making into a 7-inch tart mold and bake for 8-10 sure the team knows I’m there. I’m not a minutes. After the crust cools, fill with yeller or a screamer; fatherhood calmed me the curd and chill. Slice and serve with down a lot.” strawberry garnish.
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PHOTOGR APHY BY MICHAEL PISARRI
later this year in Maitland, which he says will have a raw bar, rotisserie and a charcoal wood grill for oysters. With his stylish but straightforward fare, McGlamery is definitely a driving force that has put this charming Orange County ’burb on the culinary map. “I call my food seasonally directed and ingredient driven. I’m not going to use the words ‘farm to table.’ When I first opened Luma there weren’t any farms around us. But there’s been a 180-degree shift: People are so aware now about where their food comes from.” What has kept him in Florida—beyond falling in love with his wife, Liz, and having two boys, Ryder, 6, and Ashby, almost 5— is the state’s emerging local food scene.
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ON THE FLY: FLORIDA WILD P H OTOGR APHS & F IELD NOTES b y C a rl t o n Wa rd Jr.
Reef at Loggerhead Key
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L
oggerhead Key in Dry Tortugas National Park is about as far out as you can go without leaving Florida. It is positioned at the tip of the Florida Reef, the third largest coral barrier reef in the world, and lies between the Gulf of Mexico to the north, the Straits of Florida to the south, and Key West 70 miles to the east, only a few miles closer than Havana. The west side of Loggerhead Key offers protection from easterly winds and waves, and the leeward reef is shallow enough to allow one to attempt split-level photography with views above and beneath the surface. Before finally capturing this photo, I tried (unsuccessfully) for two days, swimming against strong currents and side shore
winds that stirred turbid waters. Then, on day three, the conditions calmed, and I swam back out to the reef to experience this scene. I set the exposure for the evening light above the horizon and adjusted an underwater flash to illuminate the corals in the foreground. The health and beauty of the corals in this photo are unfortunately not the norm for the Florida Reef. Coral reefs are in bad shape in the upper Keys, where runoff from development and pollution are leading causes of catastrophic decline (and warming seas). Dry Tortugas reefs are faring much better. Even there, though, corals are not out of harm’s way, their fragility reminding us that all life is connected to the oceans and what we do on land affects everything.
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BLACKIE
Photo credit: Paola Paladini Pet Photography
Blackie is a 9-10 year old female black lab. This lovely ladyĘźs hobbies include chasing lizards in the backyard, napping on the couch, and snuggling with human pets. This sweetie pie is happiest when she is with another four-legged dog to share adventures. Completely house broken with fantastic manners and extremely laid back, Blackie is loved by her foster family.
Labrador Retriever Rescue of Florida (LRRoF) is a non-proďŹ t organization dedicated to placing Labrador Retrievers in loving, permanent homes. LRRoF has saved over 8,500 dogs since the year 2000. The Rescue is comprised of hardworking volunteers & a network of foster homes that are committed to this mission.
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Follow us on Facebook.com/LRRoF www.LRRoF.org
ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE B y R o b i n H a rt i l l
Wide-Open Spaces Become a good steward of some big parcels of Florida land perfect for fishing, hunting, horse riding or just conserving the countryside
ELKton PHOTOGR APHY BY TOUR FAC TORY (ELK TON), ALISE EDISON (ST. CLOUD)
ELKTON
st. cloud
The property contains 30 acres of rural, forested land, though it’s just a stone’s throw away from the historic city of St. Augustine. The 3,396-square-foot home has three bedrooms, three baths, a gathering hearth and a screened lanai. The charming house overlooks a 3-acre lake and includes a small fishing dock. The property also comes with access to an additional 70 acres of land adjacent to the main parcel for hunting and recreational purposes. 7440 County Road 305, Elkton List price: $594,900
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ST. CLOUD
Get in touch with the land on this 160-acre St. Cloud estate, where white-tailed deer, feral hogs and wild turkeys roam. Tend the fields on the farm, which includes a 55acre orange grove, 8-acre peach grove and 60-acre pasture for grazing cattle and horses. For the agricultural jet-setter, an inactive airstrip can be resuscitated. The stately 4,500-square-foot residence features four bedrooms, two-and-a-half baths and pastoral views of the landscape through the 10-foot glass front doors. Amenities include a wet bar, a billiard area and a screen-enclosed swimming pool. 6900 Kempfer Road, St. Cloud List price: $3.4 million
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ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE
WELLINGTON
For avid equestrians, this show-stopping 16-acre property with an eightacre Grand Prix jump field, Olympic-size dressage ring, and jump ring with all-weather footing offers access to 65 miles of bridle trails in Wellington’s Palm Beach Point subdivision. The first floor of the 12,339-square-foot residence is a 24-stall stable and two-bedroom, twobath grooms’ apartment. The upstairs boasts a threebedroom, two-bath owners’ apartment with high ceilings, marble accents and an open balcony. After a long ride, luxuriate in the private pool and spa. 14630 Palm Beach Point Blvd., Wellington List price: $8 million
wellington
ZOOLIGHTS
Dec 9 - 11, Dec 16 - Jan 7
PHOTOGR APHY BY CARLOS MOLEJON
Closed Christmas Day.
jacksonvillezoo.org zoo268436_ZL-FlamingoMagAd-7.8125x4.7_rsg.indd 1
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ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE
ARCADIA
This sporting paradise sits on the 353-acre Elk Hammock Ranch: a high-fenced hunting preserve teeming with elk, deer, red stag, turkey and hogs. The property features a three-story, 3,284-square-foot main house with a wraparound porch, an en suite master bedroom and two guest suites, each with a private bedroom and bath. There’s also a separate 1,300-square-foot guest lodge with a kitchen, bar, two bedrooms and one bath—as well as a barn. 2251 S.E. Durrance Road, Arcadia List price: $3.9 million
ruskin RUSKIN
With two ponds stocked with bass and bluegills, a tree house, and a zip line, this 9.4-acre estate is made for fun outdoor living. The property is fenced and cross fenced. The two-story, 2,390-square-foot home has three bedrooms and two-and-a-half baths. A mobile home has been refurbished into a cottage on the property, which also features a three-stall horse barn and a dog kennel. 502 18th Ave. S.E., Ruskin List price: $1.2 million
arcadia
Selling the best of Jacksonville...
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PHOTOGR APHY BY SHANNON CORR (RUSKIN), L AURIE WIT T (ARCADIA)
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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROADTR IP-WORTHY EVENTS (NORTH) performance by Apalachicola’s intrepid firefighters round out the weekend’s festivities. oystercookoff.com
TOUR DE FELASCO A LA C H U A
January 14 Those perpetuating the myth of Florida’s flatness clearly have never tackled Tour de Felasco. Now in its 15th year, this endurance bicycle event traverses San Felasco Hammock Preserve State Park, one of the state’s most diverse ecological and geological preserves. Covering 50 miles (or 62, for the truly diehard), the route contains rolling hills, short climbs, sinkholes, creek crossings and log bridges. Noticeably absent: paved roads. sanfelasco.org
STEINHATCHEE FIDDLER CRAB FESTIVAL S T E I N H AT C H E E
Above: Apalachicola’s world famous oysters star in the town’s annual cookoff.
SOUTHERN PINES BLUES & BBQ FESTIVAL PERRY
December 9–10 The country’s premier pit masters will descend on Northwest Florida for the 10th annual Southern Pines Blues & BBQ Festival. The quest to become grand champion comprises four challenges: pork, ribs, chicken and brisket. Insiders predict Myron Mixon (with more than 200 titles to his name) or Winter Haven-based Sweet Smoke Q (2014 World Barbecue Champion) will take top honors. Ancillary events include a people’s choice pulled pork contest, a battle of the sauces, and a kid-cue battle,
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all simmering with a rockin’ soundtrack by local blues bands. southernpinesblues.com
mascot, will pick his favorite cover-up. floridastateparks.org
ICHE NIPPY DIP DAY
APALACHICOLA OYSTER COOK-OFF
JANUARY 7
Ichetucknee Springs State Park This is no polar bear plunge. At 72 degrees, Florida’s springs feel downright tepid on a crisp January morning. During Iche Nippy Dip Day, swimmers luxuriate in the crystal clear water then socialize over cups of coffee or cocoa. Traditionally, participants cover up in bathrobes (often embellished with patches, buttons or faux fur) post dip. Bellamy Beaver, the Ichetucknee Partnership’s
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A PA LA C H I C O LA
January 13–14 At the Apalachicola Oyster Cook-Off, savor the briny, succulent riches that brought this tiny town fame. Contestants get two hours to prepare a dish using at least one pint of oysters or a dozen on the half shell. Judges evaluate entries for originality, taste, presentation and “predominance of oysters.” Children’s games, a silent auction, a 5k run and a choreographed dance
10,000 visitors flood the riverside town of Steinhatchee during this annual hootenanny, now in its ninth year. Stomp and shake as up and coming musicians audition for the Suwannee River Jam, which occurs a couple months later in Live Oak, an event that’s drawn such stars as Sheryl Crow and Luke Bryan. This qualifying competition helped launch the career of country singer Rion Paige, who later competed on “The X Factor” and recorded an album in Nashville. Other past performers have included Jaime Davis. Naturally, the festival gives due attention to the area’s ubiquitous fiddler crab: There are a parade, filled with crustacean-themed costumes and floats, and a footrace for crabs to run around a tiny track. steinhatcheeriverchamber .org
PHOTOGR APHY BY JEREMIAH STANLE Y
February 17–19
ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROADTR IP-WORTHY EVENTS (C E N T RA L ) MANATEE FESTIVAL
GASPARILLA MUSIC AND INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVALS
C R Y S TA L R I V E R
January 14–15 As the only place in the country where people can legally swim with manatees, Crystal River attracts throngs of ecotourists every year. At the 30th annual Manatee Festival, the city will celebrate the gentle giants with a street party, complete with live music, a beer garden, and arts and crafts vendors peddling sea cow-themed souvenirs such as sun catchers, whirligigs and mailboxes. For many, though, the highlight of the festival is taking a guided boat ride through Three Sisters Springs to see manatees up close. “We have the opportunity to introduce visitors to this friendly, endangered mammal in a way that others cannot,” says event coordinator Kathleen GradyWeil. gomanateefest.com
KUMQUAT FESTIVAL PHOTOGR APHY BY (CLOCK WISE) DAY TONA INTERNATIONAL SPEEDWAY; RICHARD RILE Y; CAESAR CARBAJAL
DADE CITY
January 28 For 20 years, as many as 40,000 people have turned out to celebrate “the little gold gem of the citrus family” at the Kumquat Festival. More than 425
TA M PA
March 2–9; 11-12
Above: Rolex 24 at Daytona International Speedway
vendors line up in the historic downtown to sell crafts and delight visitors with copious kumquat treats, including pies, cookies, cakes, smoothies, ice cream, marmalade, chili, hot sauce and martinis. In the days leading up to the celebration, the town hosts the Miss and Mr. Kumquat Pageant, and growers offer tours of their groves and packinghouses. dadecitychamber.org
racing provides intense action from sunrise to sunset, there is plenty to do away from the track. Visit the fan zone to tour teams’ garages and get drivers’ autographs, stroll through the infield to enjoy free concerts, take a ride on a 150-foot Ferris wheel and indulge in some gourmet grub at Taste of the 24. daytonainternationalspeed way.com
The Gasparilla hoopla doesn’t end in January when pirates hang up their eye patches and beads. Festivities carry into March with artistic celebrations. The Gasparilla International Film Festival (March 2–9) shows about 100 films—several have a Florida focus—followed by industry panels, workshops and parties in the Tampa Theatre downtown and the Muvico Centro Ybor 20 theatre. On the film fest’s heels comes the Gasparilla Music Festival (March 11–12), which brings 50-plus bands to Tampa’s Riverwalk. Past acts have included Erykah Badu and Jason Isbell. You’ll find many music genres—rock, R&B, bluegrass, hip-hop, jazz, pop, and gospel. This is the first time the two festivals have coincided, creating an experience like “Austin’s South by Southwest,” according to Rachel Feinman, president of the Gasparilla International Film Festival. gasparillafilmfestival.com gasparillamusic.com
ROLEX 24 AT DAYTONA D AY T O N A B E A C H
January 28–29
Below: Charles Bradley at the Gasparilla Music Festival
Since 1962, racing legends from around the world have traveled to Daytona to enter this arduous 24-hour marathon. It’s more about technology, design, precision and skill than perhaps other racing events. Competing in teams of four, drivers take turns speeding along the 3.56-mile course in cars with colored lights that refer to the rank of the driver and signal a driver etiquette code. While the nonstop
Above: Enjoy kumquats dozens of different ways in Dade City.
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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROADTR IP-WORTHY EVENTS (SOUTH) PALM BEACH FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL PA L M B E A C H
December 8–11 With a roster chock full of James Beard-recognized chefs, including South Florida favorites Michelle Bernstein, Jose Mendin and Richard Hales, the Palm Beach Food and Wine Fest treats gourmands to bites and bevs from nearly 40 of the nation’s most creative culinary minds. The epicurean tour de force includes a mix of lively dinners, intimate tastings, glitzy parties and cooking demonstrations in some of the island’s swankiest establishments, such as The Four Seasons Resort, The Breakers and Café Boulud. Coolio, a rapper with several hits in the 1990s who later penned
a cookbook and competed on Chopped, will serve as headline entertainer. pbfoodwinefest.com
A SYMPHONY OF ORCHIDS S A R A S O TA
January 7–8
Jane Hagerstrom. “People leave with armloads,” Hagerstrom says, “so serious buyers should arrive early for the best selection.” sarasotaorchidsociety.org
ART DECO WEEKEND MIAMI BEACH
To celebrate its 60th anniversary, the Sarasota Orchid Society is joining forces with neighboring organizations in Manatee County, Venice and Englewood and 10 growers to present A Symphony of Orchids. The Sarasota Municipal Auditorium will be filled with thousands of exoticlooking flowers. Participants will spend a full day constructing massive displays to wow the public and judges from the American Orchid Society. “These will include the rarest species,” says event coordinator
Below: Crowds meander down Collins Avenue during Art Deco Weekend.
January 15–17 In 1926, a hurricane turned Miami Beach into a blank slate. As the city rebuilt in the ‘30s and ‘40s, it created the highest concentration of Art Deco architecture in the world. In the 1970s, the Miami Design Preservation League formed to protect the iconic structures. Travel back in time during Art Deco Weekend, an event packed with lectures, museum exhibits, films, antique sales and guided walking tours. This year’s affair, which marks the
Above: Scrumptious cloves at the South Florida Garlic Fest in Del Ray
40th anniversary, will include a vintage-inspired fashion show, featuring a DJ playing ‘30s music backed by a techno beat, and a Jazz Age lawn party. artdecoweekend.com
SOUTH FLORIDA GARLIC FEST D E L R AY
Affectionately known as the region’s “best stinkin’ party,” the 18th annual South Florida Garlic Fest extols an ingredient embraced by cultures around the world. Listen to nationally known musical acts as you meander down Gourmet Alley, where you’ll find more than 80 garlic-laced dishes that beg to be washed down with a glass of vino in the Cloves & Vines Wine Garden. Kids can unwind in an amusement park area. The weekend’s pinnacle moment is the crowning of Garlic Chef, following an hourlong competition in which contestants receive a box of staple goods and one “mystery item.” Reigning champ Eric Baker, executive chef of Delray Beach’s Max’s Harvest, aims to defend the title. dbgarlicfest.com
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PHOTOGR APHY BY VMA STUDIOS (TOP); MIAMI DESIGN PRESERVATION LEAGUE (BOT TOM)
February 10–12
Above: More than 1,300 boats will be on display at the Miami International Boat Show Center: An amuse-bouche at the Palm Beach Food and Wine Festival
MIAMI INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW
WINTER STAR PARTY
February 16–20
February 20–27
PHOTOGR APHY BY MIAMI INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW (TOP); LIL A PHTO (BOT TOM)
MIAMI
More than 100,000 nautical enthusiasts from 35 countries are expected in the Magic City for the 76th annual Miami International Boat Show. Complimentary water taxis shuttle visitors from downtown to the Miami Marine Stadium Park & Basin, where more than 1,300 boats will be on display and vendors will sell marine accessories, electronics, engines and apparel in tented exhibit space. This year will include a yachting experience, giving attendees an exclusive look at opulent vessels from top-of-the-line manufacturers like Beneteau and Viking. Seafarers eager to get their feet wet can take part in on-the-water power boating and sailing workshops or paddle sports demos. miamiboatshow.com
SCOUT KEY
The Florida Keys’ southern latitude and clear night skies make for phenomenal stargazing. “It’s the best spot in the United States to see certain constellations with your naked eye,” says Tim Khan, a member of the Southern Cross Astronomical Society, which hosts the Winter Star Party. Hundreds of amateur astronomers from around the world gather at Camp Wesumkee on Scout Key, where they park RVs, set up tents and bunk in chickees, for a week of celestial viewings and conversations. They mingle with fellow enthusiasts, swap tips for spotting and photographing stars, shop for equipment, listen to distinguished lecturers and admire the beauty sparkling from above. scas.org
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FLORIDIANA ALL THINGS VINTAGE B y Ja n e B i a n ch i
SKIS PLEASE! P
icture a five-level pyramid of peppy, smiling men and women, stacked foot-toshoulder. No, it’s not an SEC cheerleading stunt; it’s a moving wall of colorfully clad waterskiers, traveling 24 miles per hour around a lake at the Cypress Gardens Water Ski Review in Winter Haven. This marvelous mobile formation was just one of the daredevil tricks that made waves for more than 50 million fans from 1943 through 2009, when the park splashed down and became Legoland Florida. The iconic water ski show sprang forth from the late Dick Pope, a short, flamboyant man known for wearing flowered jackets because, he joked, he didn’t want to be mistaken for a fire hydrant. Dubbed “Mr. Florida” in 1952 by the publisher of the Orlando Sentinel, Pope was a brilliant publicist. He sent press releases to newspapers nationwide, filled a Florida-shaped pool on park grounds with oranges for a photo op, and took his ski show international, traveling to Brazil and performing in Jordan for the king’s birthday.
Capitalizing on his father’s popular show, in the 1950s Dick Pope Jr. opened a water ski factory a few miles from Cypress Gardens. The skis—wooden, flat with a user-friendly adjustable binder—were a hit, selling about 1 million per year at the company’s peak. Time wasn’t kind to the Gardens. By the early 1970s, Cypress Gardens lost visitors to the commercially-jacked-up parks in Orlando. In 2004 it was walloped by three hurricanes. After the park finally closed five years later, Mark Voisard, 62, a former Cypress Gardens skier and show director, wasn’t ready to let go of the rope. In 2012, he persuaded some former Pope stars to perform gratis at Lake Silver in Winter Haven. They outfitted themselves with locally made replicas of Pope Jr.’s wooden originals and rebranded as the Cypress Gardens Water Ski Team. Today they put on a show every third Saturday of the month. For more information, visit cypressgardenswaterskiteam.com
Right: Dick Pope Jr. vintage skis are available online at Ebay and Etsy.
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PHOTOGR APHY BY JESSIE PREZA
Making a splash with water-friendly wooden treasures from Florida’s former top tourist destination
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