Flavor Magazine Apr/May 2009 by Flavor Magazine

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april /may 2009

P i e d m o n t seasonal • local • sustainable • artisanal • unique

Wanted:

Shovel-Ready Gardeners

Tuscarora’s Menu Starts at the Farm Yard-to-Fork virginia

Our Wine Section

The Elusive Morel Nina Planck, Local Market Pioneer Linden: Successful & Small · What the Heck Is Terroir?

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p i e d m o n t Supermodel Veggies • Blind Tasting • The Screw Cap Debate • Local Whiskey Rocks! Rebel Farmer Joel Salatin • Farm-to-Conference Center • Seasonal Recipes

Job Name: 243932Flavor_Magazine Time: 08:34:42 Date: 08-07-11

Flavor zeroes in on Virginia’s dynamic Piedmont region.

Soft Proof

PDF Page: C1flavor0708.p1.pdf Process Plan: SoftProof

fall 2008

—The Washington Post P i e d m o n t seasonal • local • sustainable • artisanal • unique

Schools Fight the Good Food Fight Cheesemakers, Vodkamakers, Troublemakers

Give bees a chance The Inn at Little Washington Local Before It Was Cool

Heirloom Apples Fall Recipes

Introducing our new wine section

The FoundingFathers of Virginia Wine: Luca Paschina, Jim Law, Gabriele Rausse free

free

winter 2009

P i e d m o n t seasonal • local • sustainable • artisanal • unique

Yes, there is a new Flavor in town, but it won’t be stimulating your taste buds as much as your brain . . . and it already has local foodies talking. —The Hook (Charlottesville)

I have personally been incredibly impressed by the response we have received to our presence in Flavor. We have had dozens and dozens of people respond directly to our ad in Flavor—people who come to visit us and learn about how we make our whiskey. We have many new fans as a direct result of these ads. Flavor is really hitting our target audience in a big way, and we could not be more pleased on every level. —Rick Wasmund, Copper Fox Distillery

Our guests love reading the magazine. We can hardly keep them in stock! —Sherri Fickel, Hopkins Ordinary

Hand-Crafted

confections Maple Syrup from the Mountains

Our Wine Section

The Politics of Local Food

Pairing Virgina Wine & Chocolate Tarara at 20

Grow Your Own Truffles

Flavor’s readers love and support local food and wine as much as you do. Now bi-monthly!

virginia

• Winter 2009

For information on advertising in Flavor, or in Terrior, our wine section, call us at (540) 987-9299, send us an e-mail at advertising@flavormags.com, or download a media kit at flavormags.com.

11 30 features

columns

The Generous Garden

Jobs are vanishing. More Virginians are going hungry. Generous farmers and gardeners are helping.

The Farm at Sunnyside is gearing up for spring after a winter that was restful but not without chores.

Stalking Morels

kit johnston

Morels are famously hard to find, and absolutely worth the effort. cristina santiestevan

Garden-Planning Party

A dinner party brings together novice and experienced gardeners. ross mcdermott

virginia

Terroir, our wine section, starts on page 47.

Tales from the Field Let the Games Begin

michael clune

Rebel with a Cause Purchasing T&E Meats

To sell its humanely pasture-raised meats, Polyface needs a local, federally inspected slaughterhouse.

joel salatin

in every issue 4

Notes from the Publisher & the Editor

Letters from Readers & Eaters

Seasonal Table

Directory

www.flavormags.com

from the publisher CARL ZITZMANN

carl zitzmann

from the quote publisher especially love early When I think of Paul Cézanne’s on the cover,I Ilove getspring. chills! IEven spring, when after the dark, gray, dry days ofyears winterago, the land though those words were first spoken over a hundred the suddenly bursts forthtoday. with life. can smell coming, can hear it in the returning sentiment is still true It isYou actually true itnow moreyou than ever. birds’ morning songs, and you can just feel it in the air.

All you have to do is pick up a newspaper or watch the evening news Don’t get wrong. Ourthe winter was food really pretty to find yourself scared to me death about world crisis darn and good. the The highlight oursystems. launch party which we at the end of food, January. That state of our localwas food We for areFlavor, surrounded byhad contaminated infected may seem like a strange time foods, for a launch party, since we launched summer 2008, livestock, genetically modified and overprocessed artificialinfoods. We have gotten feeding unhealthy food and yet we butaccustomed we planned ittothat way soour thatschool-age our farmers, children ranchers, vintners, artisans, producers, wonder countryaren’t has obesity rates like no other. I think have become spoiled andwhy the our like—who able to get away during growing andwe harvest seasons—could and, in turn, we have spoiled our local food systems. We want fresh strawberries actually go to a party on a Saturday night. The well-attended party was a tribute to thein January. arugula whenever have recipe that calls of forthe it. magazine. Over folksWe we want talk about in our pages as we much as ita was a celebration

PUBLISHER

Melissa J. Harris EDITORIAL STAFF

200 itfolks all over the Piedmont (and beyond) showed up at have the Copper Fox We want all. from We want it now. We want area it cheap. But these demands sabotaged distillery, where Wasmund’s Single Malt Whisky is made. our most vital resources—our community’s sustainable farms, food artisans, restaurateurs As committed to seasonal fare, businesses general—without our guests enjoyed live music andand toursfamily-run of the distillery, they ateinfresh bread and frittatas even from realizing it. Flavor exists to reintroduce you to those brave souls in the Piedmont the Hopkins Ordinary, pork tenderloin with cranberry chutney and carpaccio from who are to bringPlantation, all of us the mostand delicious, sustainable goodies. and the fighting Inn at Meander quiches pies fromfresh, Mom’s Apple Pie Company,

editor

ad design webmaster

celery quote root gratin from Epicurious Cow. Wine was provided Jefferson Get Vineyards, Cézanne’s embodies our new marching orders: Start the by revolution. back to Rappahannock Cellars, and Gadino Cellars, and beer was provided by Starr Hill Brewour local roots. Embrace local markets like never before. Know and be known by the ery.and Meet the Farmer TVus. interviewed several of food our guests for their show, locally which you people places feeding Reclaim our local systems. Demand prowatch at meetthefarmer.tv. Andisphotos from the are on ducedcan food at every opportunity. This the purpose andparty mission of Flavor those magazine’s who create Flavor, and wepage. are ready join with like-minded people the Piedmont. Facebook We aretograteful to allother the wonderful people who in celebrated with us! We hope Now to see you on the front lines! that spring is here, the farmers, ranchers, vintners, and producers are hard at work growing and creating all the amazing food and drinks we have gottenMelissa accustomed to, J. Harris so let’s partake of the decadent creations before us here in the Piedmont! Cheers! Melissa J. Harris

Wendell Most importantly, it was there that andfamiliar ate my with first tomato. It’s Berry. tempting to assume that because farmers areI grew the most agricultural

Laura Merricks

ADVISORY BOARD

cheri CHERI bowling BOWLING

In February and March, while I prepared this issue of Flavor, I attended Charlottesville page I wear my heart on my sleeve. Anyone who has Green knownDrinks me for(see more 48),minutes participated a volunteer at Ploughshare Community Farm than 15 will in learn that I’mproject an avid NPR listener, that I love a pageOver 7), attended a seminar leasing land for small band (see called the Rhine with an on adolescent fervor, and farms that I sponam sored by the Piedmont Environmental Council, passionate about local, sustainable, seasonal food.and contributed radio essays on local food to NPR affiliate WVTF. I am meeting consumers I was awakened to the beauty and cause of local, sustainable agriculture and producers, people who love local food because it’s fresh and those during the near decade I lived in Berkeley, California. The local food movement there who love it because it’s local. The people I’m meeting agree that the food system has thrives off Berkeley’s suspicion of government and corporations and its back-to-nature to change, but not everyone what they can do to change it. attitude. During these years I first knows read the writings of farmer, poet, essayist, and novelist

Nora Monroe

Wendy Stark

Travis Bjorklund

proofreader

from the editor from the editor

Jennifer Conrad Seidel

art director

Stephanie Anderegg-Maloy Matt Benson KeriAn Dodson Stephanie Giles Susie Haas Sandy Huckstep Hal Hunter Mike Kane Tom McSherry Cliff Miller Maggie Rogers Melissa Wiley Chad Zakaib OPERATIONS office manager

Savannah Masters

LETTERS & CALENDAR

Send letters to the editor, newsworthy items, calendar events, and other correspondence to editor@flavormags.com SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADVERTISING

A one-year, six-issue subscription is $42.

issues, they are locally in the best to lead thevery fight to fix our broken In California, eating and position seasonally is not difficult. Living this food out insystem. Virginia But nationally, farmers make up only 2 percent of the population. Eaters, time has been harder. For instance, while I’ve sworn off buying avocadoes, I dolast still buy I checked, make up 100 percent of thelast population. lemons and limes grown in the U.S. This year I vowed not to buy any tomatoes or squash out need of season, which was a genuine sacrifice. when I went to pick at upthe my Eaters to become well-informed advocates. WeSo need to talk to farmers produce subscription in June and saw yellow crookneck for me, market and ask them what challenges they’re facing. squash We needwaiting to request localI began food to cryattears of delight. am sincere, mytotendency restaurants and Igrocery stores.despite We need take parttoward in local,hyperbole, state, andwhen even I say that I felt conversations like a chaste about lover who faithful to anand absent (in via this national issueshad like been land development foodbeloved regulation case,organizations summer squash), and I was overcome with joy at his return. like the Piedmont Environmental Council (pecva.org) and the Virginia

Send subscription and advertising inquiries to

and Farmers Association (vicfa.org). Most importantly, we BerryIndependent writes aboutConsumers this fidelity, this faithfulness to a place and its people. He reminds need buy local foodneed and and cookare it. Consider thisfarmers, statistic an from Virginia Cooperative us that ourtocommunities needed by interdependence easily Extension: each household in Virginia $10 permovement week on Virginia-produced foodsto forgotten in StuffIfMart’s over-lit aisles. The spent slow-food also calls attention the seasons, the boundaries of sustainability, to the consequences of our choices. and farmtoproducts, over $1.65 billion dollarsand would be directly injected and reinvested

intoofVirginia’s economy, farms, communities. In tough As part this movement, Flavorsmall was businesses, created toand champion the local foodtimes and like wine those we’re in, take heart in knowing that even a modest amount spent intentionally culture that thrives in the Piedmont. It is a magazine of the Piedmont, by people of the can make a difference. Piedmont, for people of the Piedmont. And we hope it will foster relationship among thoseSee who believe can live well in this place. you at the we farmers market!

Jennifer Conrad Seidel

P.S. To help you get started on your garden, we’ve put a seed-planting chart for you to download at flavormags.com. flavor magazine • april/may 2009

P.O. Box 100 Sperryville, VA 22740 voice fax

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Flavor is an independent, bimonthly publication created in the Piedmont and is not affiliated with any nationally franchised publications.

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Flavor Magazine

departments 7

Local Grazings

From cookbooks to chocolate, from farm volunteers to fresh-food street vendors—we’ve got news for you. And introducing our Mindful Living section, because it’s not just about food.

jennifer conrad seidel with autumn reynolds

Flavor Café Tuscarora Mill

First, Patrick Dinh built relationships with local farmers and ranchers. Then he built his reputation as a creative chef who marries modern and traditional cuisine.

theresa curry

Groundbreakers From Farmers’ Daughter to Farmers Market Maven

With every pound of vegetables Nina Planck grew, picked, and sold as the daughter of ecological farmers in Loudon County, she was unknowingly sowing toward her future as a leading advocate of local foods here and abroad.

kathleen valenzi knaus

21 Artisans & Entrepreneurs One Family’s Farm-to-Pie Movement Mom’s Apple Pie Company has been baking pies for decades—with ingredients from their Lucketts farm—at stores in three counties.

heidi baumstark

32 In the Garden

Backyard Buffet

No need to pack a picnic for your backyard. After a trip to Edible Landscaping, a walk through your yard will provide all the fruits, berries, and nuts you’ll need.

tracey crehan gerlach

21 Cover photo of Victory Garden worker in Washington, D.C., taken by Louise Rosskam in May 1943 for the Farm Security Administration. Courtesy Library of Congress. www.flavormags.com

letters from readers & eaters I really love your magazine. I have a cabin in Page County and wondered why that county isn’t part of the coverage area for your magazine. Does it just not have enough sustainable/organic farming yet? Thanks, Cathy Wolz

Cathy, our primary coverage area is the Piedmont: Charlottesville and the counties of Albemarle, Clarke, Culpeper, Fauquier, Greene, Loudoun, Madison, Orange, and Rappahannock. We are a start-up magazine and needed to define an coverage area so we didn’t bite off more than we could chew. However, a few articles in Flavor have featured local-food advocates from the Shenandoah Valley: Harrisonburg City Schools’ farm-to-school efforts (fall 2008), T&E Meats in Harrisonburg (page 23), and the Volunteer Farm of Shenandoah (page 11). We have also invited some restaurants on the other side of the Blue Ridge to contribute recipes to Seasonal Table.

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

I picked up the winter 2009 copy of your magazine just after receiving a copy of The Valley Table magazine from a friend who lives in the Hudson Valley. My family used to live up near Rhinebeck, and he sends me issues as a way for me to keep up with what is happening in my former locale. I can’t wait to forward him an issue of your magazine so he can have proof that the Piedmont region of Virginia is just as thriving and diversified as where I came from! Kudos to you for making such a beautiful and informative magazine that surpasses The Valley Table. I am thrilled to be living in such a dynamic area! Thank you. Joanne Leffeld Charlottesville

We want to hear what our readers think of Flavor and Terroir. Send your letters, suggestions, and questions to editor@flavormags.com.

local grazings

Happenings on the Foodie Front Jennifer Conrad Seidel with Autumn Reynolds

Foster Harris House Cookbook

On the Fly

The Foster Harris House, a Rappahannock County bed and breakfast known for its exceptional dining, has just released the Foster Harris House Cookbook. With more FOSTER HARRIS HOUSE than 80 gorgeously photographed recipes COOKBOOK created by innkeeper John MacPherson, the cookbook is not just a keepsake for the B&B’s guests. It is a celebration of local food and the history of the community where the century-old house is located. The cookbook—which can be ordered online at www.fosterharris.com—includes recipes most requested by guests, like ginger scones and raspberry chipotle bacon, but is not limited to a breakfast menu. R.H. Ballard in Little Washington (www .rhballard.com), just a few blocks down from the B&B on Main Street, will host a book release party with the MacPhersons on March 21 from 2:00 to 4:00. —JCS

When locavores visit D.C. during cherry blossom season, they’ll be thrilled to find On the Fly Smartkarts waiting for them. This “ecovendor” serves fresh, locally sourced food from eye-catching green, electric carts with antennae-like fabric signs—a welcome and cheerful alternative to the ubiquitous catering trucks serving processed food to pedestrians in the capital. Smartkarts can be found throughout D.C. and in some Northern Virginia locations. Under the supervision of executive chef Jordan Lichman, who gained valuable experience as a chef at the internationally renowned Inn at Little Washington, On the Fly also operates Smartkafés at locations like the Farragut North Metro station and the Corcoran Gallery. The company was honored by being chosen to handle all the foodservice on the inaugural parade route along Pennsylvania Avenue. The menus include local sweets from Alexandria-based Buzz Bakery, barbecue from the District’s Rocklands, and gelato from D.C.’s Dolci Gelati; some national products like Stacy’s Pita Chips and Honest Tea are also served. On the website (www.dconthefly .com), you will find coupons, cart locations, catering menus, and an invitation to farmers and food artisans interested in supplying the carts. —JCS

J O H N

M A C P H E R S O N

photography by john spaulding edited by diane macpherson

Virginia Friends of Farmers Some CSAs have cut back on workshares because well-intentioned but inexperienced hands can actually create more work for farmers. And as the economy worsens and eaters look for inexpensive groceries, farmers struggle to keep costs down and stay competitive. These and other factors mean that some farms have more work than the staff can handle, and the need for volunteers is great. So as part of the national day of service in January, Carroll Ann Friedmann of Charlottesville started Virginia Friends of Farmers. She recruited about 45 volunteers for an afternoon of work at Majesty Farm in Albemarle County. For the second event, 20 volunteers worked at Ploughshare Community Farm in Louisa County. WVTF (www.wvtf.org /news_and_notes) and Meet the Farmer TV (meetthefarmer .tv) have covered the workdays. Friends of Farmers offers tangible, practical help to farmers, and the need for volunteers will increase as the growing season ramps up. It would be great to have an active FOF group in every county of the Commonwealth. At www.vafriendsoffarmers.net you can find links for joining the groups at Yahoo and Facebook. —JCS

Chocolaterie Wanders Chocolaterie Wanders is a family-owned and -operated business in Manassas. Chocolatiers Wilhelm and Melanie Wanders have national and international training from establishments including the Culinary Institute of America in New York, Alice Waters’s Chez Panisse, and Relais Desserts. The products—made without any artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives—use many local Virginia ingredients, including cream, milk, butter, nuts, berries, herbs, honey, and wine. Chocolaterie Wanders has recently collaborated with two local vineyards to create a number of exquisite fusions: Pearmund Cellars wines are used in pate de fruits and Crosskeys Vineyards wines flavor dark chocolates and a white chocolate. Visitors to the Inn at Little Washington on Valentine’s weekend were treated to a heart-shaped box of Chocolaterie Wanders truffles, a testimony to their quality. The confections can be purchased online at www.chocolateriewanders.com, via phone at (866) 792-6337, or at several vineyard and retail locations in Virginia and D.C. (listed on the website). —AR www.flavormags.com

local local grazings grazings mindful living Stork Cloth Diaper Service If you are uncomfortable with using disposable diapers but cannot launder your own cloth diapers, you will be thrilled to learn about the Stork, whose motto is “Better for your baby's bottom, better for your baby’s world.” I used this service with my son when we moved to Charlottesville in 2000, and it can’t be easier: On your weekly delivery day, Stork brings you clean cotton diapers and takes away your dirties (no rinsing or soaking necessary). Stork serves Charlottesville, most parts of Albemarle County, the I-64 corridor from Charlottesville to Richmond (and some surrounding areas), the US-250W corridor from Charlottesville to Staunton (including Free Union, Ivy, Crozet, Afton, Waynesboro, and Fishersville), the I-81N corridor from Staunton to Harrisonburg, and the US-33E corridor from Harrisonburg to Ruckersville. Customers outside the delivery area can drop off and pick up in Charlottesville. The cost per diaper is the same as disposables, and by switching to cloth you are supporting a local business and benefiting the environment in myriad ways. For information on the environmental impacts of cloth versus disposable as well as service and ordering information, visit www.thestork .biz or call (434) 295-2594. —JCS

Virginia Sustainable Building Network To keep track of events related to sustainable communities in Virginia and resources related to green building, visit www .vsbn.org—the website for the nonprofit Virginia Sustainable Building Network. One such event is the 20th Annual Environment Virginia Symposium, which has as its theme “Sustainability: the Nexus of Economic Prosperity and Environmental Stewardship,” held at the Virginia Military Institute in Lexington from March 31 to April 2. The conference is broken into six tracks, including water conservation, land conservation, alternative energy, and Chesapeake Bay restoration. One preconference workshop will address the creation of green jobs in the state. The VSBN website has a link to the symposium program. —JCS Jennifer Conrad Seidel is the editor of Flavor. Autumn Reynolds was born and raised in Rappahannock County but now resides in Linden, and has spent many years in the food and wine industry.

Savor the Romantic Flavors

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flavor magazine • april/may 2009

tales from the field

Let the Games Begin Preparing for spring after a not-so-quiet winter.

ommenting on my rather haggard appearance at a recent farmers market, a regular patron remarked that I must be enjoying the cold weather as it gave me some much needed downtime. As most of my spontaneous retorts require multiple apologies, I decided to end the conversation with a mumbled “yep” and continue selling vegetables to the people in the growing line at the front of my stand. There can be no doubt that more consumers are turning into locavores with an active interest in the farm that provides their sustenance. Thanks to the media and the tireless work of organizations such as the Piedmont Environmental Council, the Virginia Department of Agriculture, and local Virginia Cooperative Extension offices, Virginians are getting the message that the freshest, highest quality fruits, vegetables, meats, and value-added products can be located, literally, just down the street. Even retailers, often the toughest nut to crack in the supply chain, are listening to their customers and stocking an ever-increasing number of local products. For a farmer like me, these trends are enough to make my heart sing—off key, but sing nonetheless.

Many assume that farm work ceases after the first frost, when we retire to the hearth of our woodstoves to tally the season’s returns. It ain’t quite like that. Besides running a CSA share program for residents of Rappahannock County, the Farm at Sunnyside also participates in 2 farmers markets in the D.C. area. Our market customers regularly share their perceptions of what my life must be like and how they wish they could trade their office cubicle for my wide-open spaces. Many assume that farm work ceases after the first frost, when we retire to the hearth of our woodstoves to tally the season’s returns. While I would never trade my view of Shenandoah National Park for a condo in the city, it ain’t quite like that. Winter growing can be a challenge, especially as the demand for fresh produce continues to increase at tremendous rates. Thanks to high-tunnel season extenders, we continue to grow a fairly diverse variety of vegetables to satisfy our customers in

gardiner lapham

Michael Clune

the colder months. Unfortunately, Mother Nature is determined to keep us humble. Dramatic temperature fluctuations and limited light slow germination and production, making December and January stressful months for farms trying to be economically sustainable with extended-season growing. Feeding the boiler that heats the soil in our tunnels can be especially trying at 3:00 in the morning. There’s nothing like crawling out of a warm bed to brave single-digit temperatures to ensure our tender plants make it through one more winter night. Ice, snow, and wind—especially wind—become antagonists, forces that can make the blood pressure of even someone as sedate as myself rise uncontrollably as I envision tunnel plastic whipping through the air like some mythical banshee. In addition to the needy, high-maintenance hoop houses where our winter crops are growing, the orchard desperately needs rehabilitation: besides keeping up with seasonal pruning, we must radically thin the apple trees in order for the orchard to achieve its maximum potential. There was no deep sigh of relief after our CSA ended at the end of the November, just the renewed commitment of our fantastic farm team as we undertook the tasks necessary to make it through one more winter. And now March is here. The trip to Bonaire that was supposed to leave me tan, relaxed, and 20 pounds lighter somehow never materialized. Suddenly we are in full planning and preparation mode for the outdoor growing season. There are seeds to order, tractors to service, fields to prepare, interns to hire, deer fences to construct, CSA members to find. . . . If only we had 30-hour days! On top of these scheduled tasks are the intangibles that keep me up nights. What if a late frost deprives us of our cherry and Asian pear crops (as happened in 2006)? What if there’s another fuel-price spike that blows apart my budget? What if that family of bears decides to show up again this year? What happened to my illusion of control? Then again, these challenges are why I do this. Farming is triage, and as a former professional paramedic, I know something about triage. Adapting to circumstances, shifting priorities, developing contingencies—in my former career, I used to affectionately refer to the triage process as making www.flavormags.com

BELLE MEADE SCHOOL grades 6-9 academic excellence through experiential learning school bellemeadeschool.org 540-987-8970 BELLE MEADE FARM practicing sustainable agriculture eggs, produce beef, pork, chicken, turkey BELLE MEADE BED & BREAKFAST beautiful views farm-fresh food BELLE MEADE DAY CAMP active, outdoor fun for boys and girls, ages 6-13 camp open house Sunday, April 26 and Sunday, May 17, 1-3 bellemeade.net • 540-987-9748 • 353 F.T. Valley Road, Sperryville, VA 22740 10

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

To be fully honest, the pace of farming does quiet down in the winter months, even for a 12-month operation like ours. There is time to walk the land and reflect on the year just past. Time to anguish over mistakes made, both the inevitable and the avoidable. Time to imagine new approaches to seemingly unsolvable problems. Time to renew the spirit and get excited for the first whiff of a spring breeze. But that does not mean we are a part-time lot, whiling away the cold in a kind of blissful indulgence. We face the coming growing season with tenacity and resolve, much like a Spartan that refuses surrender or defeat. We will meet the challenges and succeed, growing either wiser or more humble. After all, our customers are depending on us to deliver the finest that Virginia soil has to offer. Michael Clune is the director of farm operations for the Farm at Sunnyside in Washington, Virginia. A former firefighter and paramedic, he is an ardent advocate of local sustainable agriculture.

E MEAD L L

control out of chaos. Much as in emergency services, these are the challenges that make farming addictive and that provide constant opportunities to learn and grow.

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If you can: • balance your checkbook • access the internet from your home computer • donate 2-3 hrs. of your time each month ...then you can help!

www.rrcsb.org

Protective Money Management Program

Photos of Victory Gardens in D.C. and New York appear courtesy of the Library of Congress. Notably, the man shown kneeling is Vice President Henry Wallace.

The Generous Garden Kit Johnston

When you reap your harvest in your field and forget a sheaf . . . you shall not go back to get it; it shall be left for the alien, the orphan, and the widow. Deuteronomy 24:19 nrsv

ome 25 to 35 million Americans—nearly half of them children—eat less than they should or must seek emergency hunger relief because they can’t afford the food they need. That is the consensus of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, chief administrator of the nation’s food stamp and other government-based hunger-relief programs; Feeding America, the country’s largest charitable food network; and the Garden Writers Association of America, founder of the grassroots Plant a Row for the Hungry program. Food insecurity is growing across the country, including here in the Piedmont, by at least 20 percent—maybe by 30 percent or more, some say—due to widespread hard times. How our region addresses hunger is a wondrous patchwork quilt of many different efforts—public and private, institutional and individual, faithbased and community-based. Woven throughout this quilt are generous farmers and gardeners who do what they can, even as they wish they could do more. A few make produce directly available to Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) recipients and those eligible for other government food-assistance programs in exchange for cash. Some provide many thousands of pounds of fresh food mostly to large, privately run food banks through flat-out donations or subsidized community-supported agriculture (CSA) shares. Many more allow volunteers from a wide variety of local agencies, food pantries, and soup kitchens to glean extra produce at the close of farmers markets for free. Some will plant extra this year and donate it at harvest as part of the Plant a Row for the Hungry (PAR) program. Untold numbers will simply show up at their

churches on Sunday to share whatever they can spare. Last year, the private nonprofit Blue Ridge Area Food Bank Network (BRAFBN) received an unprecedented 35 tons of fresh vegetables and fruits from the Volunteer Farm of Shenandoah, helping the food bank feed at least 130,000 people. But BRAFBN spokeswoman Ruth Jones predicts that this year the food bank will come under more pressure to meet demand from those always in need—the working poor, single mothers with children, and the elderly—as well as from the newly unemployed. “Increased demand is taxing Virginia food banks—all food banks—more than ever,” Jones says. “The Volunteer Farm has done a fabulous job. It’s great to have farmers like Bob Blair in our corner.”

Bountiful Farms Bob Blair, owner of the Volunteer Farm of Shenandoah and an ABC World News Person of the Year, plans to provide BRAFBN with even more fresh vegetables and fruits this year—some 50 tons, he predicts. BRAFBN will also get meat from Blair’s latest volunteer farm, in the Zepp Valley near Virginia’s western border, which is being used to pasture donated meat animals. Big news is the addition earlier this year of yet another farm in Culpeper County—97 acres anonymously leased to Blair’s operation (at $1 per year for 10 years). Blair plans to plant about 10 of these acres in potatoes this year and will also pasture donated meat animals here. Again, BRAFBN will benefit. A retired federal emergency management official, Blair has faced crises before. Now he faces issues like locating a reasonably priced and certified slaughterhouse and getting more cash www.flavormags.com

donations for his operations because such donations fell somewhat in 2008 even as farmers everywhere faced cost increases. Blair’s philosophy, however, is to keep asking. “If we get scared of the recession and don’t ask, we don’t get what we need. But everyone is finding it a little hard right now.” Other notable examples of individual farmers stepping up to the plate are Eric Plaksin and Rachel Bynum of Waterpenny Farm in Rappahannock. They plan to continue their long-standing relationship with another large nonprofit food bank in the region, D.C.’s Capital Area Food Bank (CAFB). Waterpenny’s involvement began back in 2000 as a block of 20 CSA shares sold to CAFB at a slightly reduced price, made possible because these shares were subsidized by Plaksin and Bynum and by shareholders willing to donate to the program. Plaksin reports that the number of shares CAFB has been able to purchase has fluctuated from the beginning (from 20 to 30 to 10), with supportive shareholders donating enough for 5 or 6 additional shares each year. The farm also donates shares, bringing the total weekly shares delivered to 18 in the First Ladies, Victory past few years. In addition, Gardens & Service Days Waterpenny donates surplus In 1943, first lady Eleanor and oddly shaped produce Roosevelt tore up part of the White House lawn to to CAFB. And “good vegcreate a Victory Garden etables” left from the Sunday and encouraged citizens market are donated locally to do the same at home. to the Rappahannock Senior By the end of World War II, according to Center’s meal program. Rappahannock Plant a Row’s Hal Hunter, Americans were raising 40 percent of their own produce. Even as some are drawing comparisons between our current economic situation and the crisis during the Roosevelt administration, others are encouraging Americans to plant Victory Gardens again. But this time, the people are asking the first lady to follow their example. Check out eattheview .org and thevictorygardeninitiative.com.

Government Efforts Other farmers are pitching in too, in both formal and informal ways, whether by participating in government food-assistance programs, by donating extra produce, or by planting extra crops. The not-so-good news is that while many Americans think they can rely on government programs to help them put food on the table, farmers in Virginia, the region’s largest agricultural state, have found that’s not necessarily the case, even in these hard times. “We’re seeing newly unemployed breadwinners looking for a boost now, but [we’re] also [seeing] government-assistance beneficiaries whose benefits are limited,” says BRAFBN’s Jones. Even as the demand for hunger relief grows, Virginia farms have had limited participation in USDA hunger-assistance programs that are designed in part to bring those in need and farmers together—like the long-standing, fully funded Food Stamp Program (now called the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program, or SNAP); the newer, partially funded Women, Infants, and Children Farmers Market Nutrition Program (WIC FMNP); and the even newer, fully funded Senior FMNP. Over 600,000 individuals purchased food thorough SNAP— which uses Electronic Benefit Transfer (EBT) cards instead of food stamps—in Virginia in 2008, up from some 530,000 in 2007. Yet the program’s reliance on EBT cards has meant fewer farmers and farmers markets are interested in participating,

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according to an informal survey still underway by state Cooperative Extension Community Viability Specialist Matt Benson. So far Benson has turned up only one Virginia farmers market with an active EBT-acceptance program: Five Points Community Market in the Tidewater. While other market managers have indicated their interest, the expense of EBT-acceptance technology (wireless receivers at markets without electricity can cost $1,000 each) has been an obstacle, as has the need for government pre-approval. “Navigating the bureaucracy has been a problem,” Benson says. Thanks to outside grants, at least 2 markets in the D.C. area have EBT-technology capability. Taking the cue, Benson is now pursuing such grants for Virginia markets. WIC FMNP was designed to allow eligible children below the age of 5 and low-income pregnant, postpartum, and breastfeeding women to purchase fresh, local produce from farmers markets and roadside stands. According to the USDA website, 2.3 million people nationwide enrolled in WIC received this additional benefit in fiscal year 2007. Last year in Virginia, 147,453 WIC families and individuals and 17 Virginia farmers markets participated in the program. But state officials recently announced an end to that program in Virginia, at least for the next 2 years. Michael Burns is manager of WIC FMNP at the Virginia Department of Health, which administered the program together with the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (VDACS). According to Burns, the program provided eligible women and children with an additional WIC benefit worth $20 to $40 in the growing season to purchase fresh produce from pre-approved farmers. But the state’s matching funds had to be cut from Governor Tim Kaine’s 2009–2010 budget request due to state revenue shortfalls. The USDA had already cut postpartum women from the program, which had been limited to 7 health districts, including Arlington and Fairfax. All along the way, Virginia has tried several times to expand the program, “but we simply haven’t been able to,” Burns says. Not all is lost, Burns emphasized in a recent announcement, because the regular Virginia WIC program “will be implementing . . . changes to facilitate purchase of fresh fruits and vegetables on a statewide, year-around basis,” which, according to VDACS and other state agencies, means being able to get more produce at grocery stores. Meanwhile, farmers have lost out. Fairfax Farmers Market Manager Kim Haun characterizes the impact of the program’s end on the 10 Fairfax markets that sold fresh produce to some 8,000 WIC FMNP participants in Fairfax last year as a “significant loss of income for some of our vendors.” Yet Hana Newcomb of Potomac Vegetable Farms, who accepted WIC FMNP vouchers at her roadside stand in Vienna, laments that the amount of money WIC FMNP mothers had to spend always struck her as “pathetically small.” Meanwhile, the USDA’s parallel senior program remains intact in the state, albeit in a limited way. At present, Senior FMNP operates in 7 locations, most in the southwest and southeast but also in Augusta and Arlington Counties. According to the State Department of Aging’s Senior FMNP Director Elaine Smith, the program (fully federally funded excepting administrative costs) has been successful—involving about 152 Virginia farmers and 11,000 seniors in 2008 alone. Smith recently asked the USDA to

Society of St. Andrew

expand it so that more seniors meeting certain income requirements can continue to receive $40 to spend over a given season at, possibly, more pre-approved farmers markets. Because Congress’s 2008 farm bill added $5 million for the program, Smith is hopeful that Virginia will “get a piece of that.” All in all, given the mixed success to date of government foodassistance programs that incorporate farm-fresh produce, Benson urges farmers throughout the region to continue to do what they have mostly done privately, including working with food banks like BRAFBN, CAFB, and others.

Resourceful Food Banks Headquartered outside of Staunton and serving more than 400 distribution points across a wide swath of Virginia (including 25 counties and 9 cities), the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank Network is used to jumps in demand during the holidays and winter months, when heating bills compete with food dollars in family budgets. But this year, says BRAFBN’s Jones, the agency is seeing more new clients without jobs and homes in addition to those low-income families and individuals experiencing governmentbenefit limitations. BRAFBN is encouraging those who are eligible to apply for SNAP. “To be food secure, people need food from more sources than us,” Jones notes. With no government support—except for some increasingly scarce USDA nonperishable commodities—BRAFBN’s challenges include having enough cash to purchase more food at a time when cash donations seem to be falling off. During the holidays, “we got a nice boost,” Jones says, and if the General Assembly passes a proposed $1 million grant for Virginia food banks, that could help as well. Still, after the holidays, “we always see donations plummet, and that happened again this year, on top of a summer which was one of our worst,” Jones explains. “People just weren’t donating, even as we anticipate that we will need more money to do everything across the board.” New strategies include getting larger donations from individual contributors all year. BRAFBN also needs more volunteers. “If we didn’t have volunteers,” Jones says, “we’d have no operation.” Like BRAFBN, the Capital Area Food Bank is a member of the Federation of Virginia Food Banks. CAFB is also an affiliate of the Feeding America program, which encourages food banks to engage in initiatives that facilitate more access to and Plant a Row for the Hungry use of fresh produce. Last year, PAR projects have been established in CAFB distributed about 20 milthe counties listed below. For informalion pounds of food—including tion on the Garden Writers Association 6 million pounds of fresh of America or to start PAR in your area, produce—to 383,000 people. visit www.gardenwriters.org. Officials at CAFB, a nonprofit Clarke organization, say demand is scarroll@virginia.edu (540) 837-1758, ext. 287 growing. Loudoun plantarow@vpclc.com (540) 454-2732 Rappahannock hal@rappahannock.com (540) 937-4744

Flexible Farmers Markets From the heart of urban D.C. to the heart of the rural Shenandoah Valley, farmers markets and individual vendors within them contribute to the public and private

Based in Big Island, Virginia, the Society of St. Andrew—“America’s premier food salvage ministry”—operates 3 hunger relief programs: the Potato and Produce Project, the Gleaning Network, and the Harvest of Hope. The Potato and Produce Project alone has distributed more than 400 million pounds of produce across the country since its inception in 1983 by salvaging truckloads of produce rejected by commercial markets and directing it to local hunger-relief organizations. In 2008, it distributed 2.7 million pounds in Virginia alone. Through its Gleaning Network, the Society mobilizes volunteers nationwide to glean “tens of millions of pounds” from farmers’ fields (with permission) for local hunger-relief organizations. It estimates that to date, more than 164 million pounds of food have been gleaned by almost 400,000 volunteers. Harvest of Hope is the society’s faith-based outreach program, which educates participants about the national and international hunger crisis and “encourages them to make lifelong commitments to be part of the solution.” The Blue Ridge Area Food Bank gets some of its fresh produce from the Potato and Produce Project, and some farmers in the region, such as Hana Newcomb of Potomac Vegetable Farms, “happily” look for society members and other volunteers to take her extra produce at the close of farm market days. Learn more at the Society’s website: endhunger.org.

fight against hunger in various ways, most of which primarily involve local agencies or volunteer gleaners. With 11 separate market locations within its borders, Fairfax County takes its farmers markets and their connection to the community seriously. Markets Manager Kimberly Haun was dismayed when she learned in late January of Virginia’s suspension of the WIC FMNP. “We’re not happy at all. We participated a great deal. WIC FMNP seemed to be a significant part of our vendors’ business.” Meanwhile, gleaners from faith-based organizations have had a good relationship with the Fairfax markets and will be permitted to glean at close of market again this season. “We’d love to do anything more that we can, including participating in the seniors program and possibly even by accepting food stamps,” says Haun, although Fairfax markets don’t have access to electricity with which to operate EBT. Charlottesville City Market Manager Stephanie AndereggMaloy reports that quite a few farmers and food vendors there have provided close-of-market donations to the Salvation Army and the local Children, Youth, and Family Services agency in the past. She expects the latter to continue this arrangement in 2009 in alternating shifts with the Jefferson Area Board of Aging (JABA), which provides home-delivered meals to seniors, among other services. Innovatively, the market may also partner with JABA to subsidize and distribute “City Market Bucks” to encourage SNAP participants to visit the market. If the response is good, Anderegg-Maloy says the market may be interested in investing in EBT technology.

Plant a Row for the Hungry It is not a stretch to assume many of the 70 million gardeners in the United States grow more than they can eat. In 1994, Anchorage-based garden columnist Jeff Lowenfels began to calculate that if gardeners planted an extra row of vegetables with the intent of donating the harvest, many hungry people could be fed. He encouraged his readers to plant a row for a soup kitchen in Anchorage after feeling guilty for refusing to give a panhandler money for food. When the Garden Writers Association of America learned of Lowenfels’s initiative, it launched Plant a Row for the Hungry www.flavormags.com

on a national level, and for the past 15 years, this charitable, nonprofit program has encouraged grassroots formation of local committees of gardeners and others to donate surplus garden produce to local food banks and pantries, soup kitchens, and service organizations. Last year alone, about 27,000 North American PAR gardeners and other volunteers nationwide donated over 1.4 million pounds of fresh produce, supported in part by taxdeductible cash donations from businesses and individuals. Julia Brizendine, owner of VPC Landscape Construction in Purcellville, has been a gardener all her life, yet she never knew that food banks and soup kitchens accepted fresh produce. “All the food drives I’d ever heard of accepted only nonperishable goods,” she points out. She was looking into how to respond to Barack and Michelle Obama’s invitation to engage in a national day of service in her community on Martin Luther King Jr. Day when she came across information about PAR on the Garden Writers Association website. She listed a PAR event on the USAService.org website after discussing the need for fresh produce with Loudoun Interfaith Relief, the most consistent gleaner of market-day produce at the 6 markets operated in Loudoun and operator of the largest, and only nutritious, food pantry in Culpeper Food the county. Closet The result has been the This small private, formation of a new Loudoun nonprofit food bank, or “closet”— County Volunteer Committee which operates out with some 35 county residents of space donated by St. Stephens Episcocommitted to encouraging pal Church—served 110,000 food items in fellow residents to plant extra 2008, and that number will certainly rise rows—Interfaith Relief requests in 2009. Dick Rosica (who directs the CFC with his wife, Barbara) says they are now hard fruits, tomatoes, beans, and helping many families who are in crisis squash—and donate the results for the first time. Private cash donations to Interfaith Relief; volunteers have begun to help with the growing may also help glean produce demand. The CFC receives and distributes from markets and farm fields. mostly canned or boxed nonperishable items donated by area churches, busiIn mid-January, Rappahannesses, and individuals, because it has no nock environmental activist Hal storage capacity for fresh produce other Hunter, using the county’s local than eggs. But when the waiting room is listserv of some 800 area resifilled in summer with vegetables and fruits dents, called attention to rising donated by local farmers and gardeners, those items “disappear in a flash.” Learn unemployment and invited local more at www.culpeperfoodcloset.net. gardeners and farmers to help him form a local PAR committee. At press time, he had received more than 70 responses, including responses from many of the area’s sustainable agriculture farms, farm-based schools (Mt. Laurel Montessori and Belle Meade), and students and teachers involved in Rappahannock County Public Schools’ Farm-to-Table program. Farm- and garden-donated fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs will be dropped off and picked up at the Link, a private, nonprofit community center in Sperryville. Hunter is now seeking other volunteers to help with distribution and tax-deductible donations to defray the cost of rent at the Link. The local Board of Supervisors also recently approved the creation of a Rappahannock food bank to further assist the estimated 700 county residents with substandard diets or a need for emergency food.

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What You Can Bring to the Pot We can all learn a lesson from this children’s story: Someone comes to town and claims to make a wonderful soup flavored with only a stone. Each neighbor, poor and hungry but curious, contributes a small ingredient (say, a carrot or an onion) in order to get a portion of the finished soup. Once everyone has contributed something small, the “stone” soup is wonderful, indeed. The need for food donations can seem overwhelming and our ability to affect change may seem small in comparison, but working together, we can help those in crisis. So tend extra plants in your garden, volunteer to glean or distribute produce, and donate as much cash as you are able, knowing that together, these small “ingredients” will feed many. Kit Johnston is a freelance writer and editor, chef, yoga instructor, and owner of La Bella Terra B&B in Madison County.

These organizations need food and cash donations as well as volunteers. Federation of Virginia Food Banks www.vafoodbanks.org (757) 314-4572 Volunteer Farm of Shenandoah www.worldfoundationforchildren.com (540) 459-3478

flavor café

T uscarora M ill Theresa Curry

At Tuskie’s, diners delight in a diverse menu featuring the freshest ingredients from local sources.

ometime in March, Patrick Dinh will call Mary Beth Gaine at Kerry Springs Farm and talk about asparagus. “She’ll ask me how much I want, and I’ll probably say ‘all of it,’” Dinh says. It wasn’t always this easy. Dinh, the chef at Tuscarora Mill in Leesburg, has spent 17 years in the Piedmont countryside meeting farmers and sampling their pork, tomatoes, basil, chicken, beef, and lamb. “Now it’s all paying off,” Dinh says. He has a good idea of what his neighbors have to offer each season, and he’s quick to meet new growers with new products. He’s learned to judge reliability as well as quality and to be proactive. Every spring, he serves a growers’ lunch where everyone can ask questions about what the chef expects—long before they pull their trucks around to his kitchen door. And the restaurant’s website has both a “chef’s wish list” to let growers know what Dinh is looking for and an invitation for farmers to let Dinh know what they have to offer. Dinh gives credit to Kevin Malone, one of the owners, for pointing him toward the local market. “I had just arrived here when Kevin said, ‘Go out and find the farmers,’” Dinh remembers. “And he always supported me in my search for the best ingredients, which is as it should be.”

photos by molly mcdonald peterson

A Special Setting In an old mill that once ground Loudoun County wheat, corn, and rye into cornmeal and flour beneath its massive stone, Dinh transforms the harvest into imaginative Virginia cuisine. Tuscarora Mill—which has an in-house bakery, a bar, and a café in addition to the dining room—is a popular gathering place for friends meeting for a beer and a sandwich as well as a destination for special occasions. It’s a large undertaking, but Tuskie’s (that’s what the regulars call it) retains surprising intimacy and warmth despite serving hundreds of patrons on a busy night. The dining room, the bar, and the South Street Under bakery are anchors of Leesburg’s Market Station, a compound of restored historic buildings in the center of town. The restoration of the mill itself has been done with a light touch: it is historic, rustic, elegant, and whimsical all at once. Light colors, windows, and skylights open up the interior landscape and tie the additions into the original mill structure.

Much of the old mill’s working apparatus has been cleaned, varnished, and put on display—a perfect reminder that the food served in the old granary is the modern harvest of one of the most productive areas on earth. When Dinh came to the Leesburg restaurant, it had been open for 5 years. He’d worked in D.C. and California (for legendary chef Jeremiah Tower at Stars) and returned to be near his family when his mother became ill. “It was time for me to get out of the city,” he says.

Every spring, the chef serves a growers’ lunch where everyone can ask questions about what he expects. Knowing Where It Comes From Everything aligned: the growth of Loudoun County, the common interest of both owner and chef in regional food, the rise of the local food movement, the increase of small, specialized farms providing quality meat, cheese, and produce. Another influence, says Dinh, was Warren Howell, who promotes agricultural business in Loudoun. When a popular restaurant like Tuscarora Mill goes with all fresh, farm-raised eggs, like those supplied by Chicama Run in Purcellville, it adds to the success of the farm as well as the www.flavormags.com

flavor café

Crab and Pea Risotto with Arugula, Manchego, and Lemon Oil Serves 4 as an appetizer. ½ cup diced onions 2 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 cup Arborio rice Pinch each of dry thyme, oregano, sage, and basil ¼ cup white wine 2 cups chicken broth, hot ½ cup blanched fresh peas or thawed frozen peas 1 cup jumbo lump crab, cleaned of shells 2 roasted plum tomatoes, cut into 8 pieces 2 ounces baby arugula 1 ounce shaved manchego cheese 4 tablespoons extra virgin lemon olive oil (available at most gourmet stores) In a 2-quart pot over high heat, brown onions and garlic in olive oil until tender, about 5 minutes. Add Arborio rice and dry herbs and cook with onions and garlic, 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Keep the heat high. Add white wine and stir. Cook 3 minutes. Add hot chicken broth ½ cup at a time to rice and stir. Return to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and cook 3 minutes. Repeat until all broth is absorbed, about 14 minutes. Add peas and crab meat, stir, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Fold in roasted tomatoes and a handful of arugula to wilt. Portion risotto onto 4 serving plates and garnish each plate with fresh arugula on top, shaved manchego, and a drizzle of lemon oil around the risotto. Serve immediately.

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restaurant. Dinh may order 100 pounds of chicken a week from Fields of Athenry, also in Purcellville, where he buys lamb, too. Or he may decide to serve a variety of pork products from the Baker Farm in Mount Jackson. He’s tracked down the cheesemakers at Cherry Glen, a Maryland goat farm; he’s arranged to get a variety of produce from the Vineyard Nursery in the Plains; and he procures spinach and beets from Walter’s Bluemont Produce. Even so, Dinh says, quality has to be the first word. “Sure, the local food movement has helped us, but if the food wasn’t good, it wouldn’t matter much to our diners where it came from.” Even when the chef has ties with local growers, there is sometimes a gap between the culinary wisdom of the kitchen and the knowledge of the guests at the table. At Tuskie’s, the waitstaff is trained to fill that gap. Servers are able to explain the provenance of each dish, suggest alternatives, pair wines, and even answer detailed questions about ingredients and cooking methods. “We emphasize that,” Dinh points out. He says the local connection is such a part of everyday life there that everyone becomes familiar with it.

This holds true in the bar as well, where a lively crowd appreciates the café menu. “They can order from either menu,” Dinh says. “So you might see someone with a beer and chicken wings next to someone with a 3-course dinner and a bottle of wine.” That mix is exactly what he was aiming for. “We have some depth here,” he reflects. “We’re not one-dimensional.” No matter the degree of formality, the food will always be the best it can be. “In a way it’s simple,” he says. “Whether it’s chicken wings or lamb chops, we’ll always start with the best.” Theresa Curry is a Virginia freelance feature writer. She writes for a number of publications, including the Virginian Pilot, the Charlottesville Daily Progress, the Augusta Free Press, and the Harrisonburg Daily News Record.

Tuscarora Mill 203 Harrison Street, Leesburg (703) 771-9300 www.tuskies.com Monday–Thursday: 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Friday–Saturday: 11:00 a.m. to 12:00 a.m. Sunday: 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

mouncey ferguson

Comfort Food

Tuscarora Mill invites growers, producers, and winemakers to an annual luncheon with Chef Patrick Dinh and Chef Mark Marrocco of Magnolias at the Mill in Purcellville. This year, representatives from South Street Under and Fire Works Pizza, both in Leesburg, also attended. (These restaurants are all under the same ownership.) On March 3, 2009, farmers came to discuss what they plan to offer in the coming year and to hear what the chefs are looking for. The chefs, in turn, can plan their menus according to what is available locally. Meet the Farmer TV will feature the meeting in an upcoming episode. Visit meetthefarmer.tv for more information. Attendees at the 2008 luncheon (left to right): Magnolias Chef Mark Marrocco, Luke Wiseman of Stoneybrook Organic Farm in Hillsboro, Steve Baker of Baker Pork in Mount Jackson, Susie Haas of Ayrshire Farm in Upperville, Mary Ellen Taylor of Endless Summer Harvest Farm in Purcellville, Sally Bolton of Vineyard Nursery in Middleburg, Walter Getlinger of Walter’s Produce in Bluemont, Kim Ross, formerly of Magnolias, Dana Sacco of Chicama Run Farm in Purcellville, Mary Beth Gaines of Kerry Springs Farm in Waterford, Norma Wilson of Butterfly Hill Farm in Lovettsville, Georgia O’Neal of Tree and Leaf Farm in Purcellville, Tuscarora Mill Chef Patrick Dinh, and Elaine Boland of Fields of Athenry Farms in Purcellville.

www.flavormags.com

groundbreakers

From Farmers’ Daughter to Farmers Market Maven Kathleen Valenzi Knaus

Local food advocate Nina Planck propagates farmers markets and new views about old-fashioned foods the way she once cast seeds on her family’s Wheatland Vegetable Farms in Loudoun County.

ina Planck doesn’t remember much about her family’s move in 1973 from Buffalo, New York, to Loudoun County, Virginia. The future local food advocate, author, and entrepreneur was only 2 when her parents, Chip and Susan Planck, apprenticed themselves to college friends Tony and Mariette Hiu Newcomb, who operated Potomac Vegetable Farms. But Planck sure remembers her move from the Newcombs’ farm, at age 8, to the farm her parents bought in the unincorporated community of Wheatland. Located north of Purcellville and south of Lovettsville on Route 287, the property was “wild and rugged,” she says recalling her first sighting. “I thought it was all over for us. We had a wood-burning hot-water heater and needed to light a fire to make a bath. The pipes froze in the winter.” Even so, Planck says, the land was “irreplaceable,” and wresting what is now her family’s vibrant Wheatland Vegetable Farms from the clutches of Mother Nature got easier over time: “The summers on the farm were glorious. We ate good food, and we worked with some of the best people I’ve ever met.” Establishing Roots To pay the bills, the Plancks sold their farm’s first crops at roadside stands in nearby towns. Sales were limited, and that first winter, her parents took part-time jobs to make ends meet. The following year, however, the Arlington Farmers Market opened. Area residents, yearning for an alternative to the unimpressive produce being sold at chain supermarkets, flocked to the Plancks’ silver Ford Econoline van, brimming with fresh beets and chard. “I was only 9 that year,” Planck recalls. “People would come up and ask, ‘Are you In 1980, Planck started selling produce organic?’ We said, ‘No, but from the farm she worked with her we’re local and use ecological parents, Chip and Susan Planck, at farmers markets in Northern Virginia. methods.’ Soon, we stopped 18

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using chemicals entirely. We quickly discovered that people only asked for organic because they didn’t yet know how to ask for good produce grown locally.” The Plancks began selling exclusively at farmers markets, some of which they helped to establish, like the producers-only Takoma Park Farmers Market in Maryland. By age 12, young Nina was running one of her family’s market stands entirely on her own. There is a picture of her at that time, bagging fresh green beans for a customer, her mother’s handmade brown-striped apron tied around her thin waist. So intent is she on filling the paper sack, one wonders whether she was aware of the lessons she was learning that day, and on countless others just like it, about quality and value, service and honesty. Before she headed off for college in 1989, the weekends she spent selling tomatoes and cucumbers, bell peppers and pumpkins would shape her future as inexorably as her hands had shaped the soil for their seeds. Sowing Far and Wide After graduating from Georgetown University, Planck detoured from the farming life to work as a congressional staffer, a reporter for Time, and a speechwriter for the United Kingdom’s American ambassador. While she enjoyed living in London, she missed the availability of good local produce. So she rented land near her home, recruited some farmers, and established the Islington Farmers Market—London’s first—on June 6, 1999. “I called it ‘D-Day’—a different kind of American invasion, of local English food!” she says. Its immediate success prompted the opening of 2 more markets by summer’s end. In January 2000, she quit her speechwriting job to focus on expansion. In 2008, the London Farmers Markets company she founded opened its 16th market on Parliament Hill. While in England, Planck also wrote her first book, The Farmers’ Market Cookbook (now out of print), and hosted Farmers’ Market, a 13-part series for British television. Homesick, Planck returned to Washington, D.C., and founded Local Food, a nonprofit group that develops markets for food producers. In May 2003 Local Food opened the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market, with producers from D.C. and five states, including Virginia. “This market makes great

“We quickly discovered that people only asked for organic because they didn’t yet know how to ask for good produce grown locally.” —Nina Planck

www.flavormags.com craig mccord

This Season In July 2004, Planck was recruited by Greenmarket, the largest U.S. network of farmers markets, to direct its 42 markets in New York City. A difference of opinion about how the markets could be improved led to her dismissal 6 months into the job. Undaunted, Planck drew on her experience and, in 2006, opened 2 test pocket markets in New York City under the name Real Food Markets. That same year her second book, Real Food: What to Eat and Why, was published to wide acclaim. The book refutes dietary fads and offers evidence about why traditional foods like butter, grass-fed beef, and raw milk are healthier choices than their synthetic, hormone-enhanced alternatives. “Unlike industrial food, real food is fundamentally conser-

the fresh y jo n e e m o C spring! flavors of

www.thewinekitchen.com 7 South King St. Leesburg, VA 20175 703 777 WINE

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

anthony t. nigrelli

use of a small public space,” she says. “It serves a broad community beyond the immediate neighborhood, serves farmers, and meets a demand.” It proves the point, she believes, that other “pocket markets” could be established and achieve similar success. “The problem isn’t the supply or the demand,” she says. “It’s the middleman, the person willing to organize the market and bring the farmers and customers together.”

The foodshed supplying D.C.’s Mount Pleasant Farmers Market (shown here during the Fiesta DC festival), which was started by Planck in 2003, incorporates Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, and Pennsylvania as well as the District.

vative,” Planck writes in Real Food. “It is the food you already know: roast chicken, tomato salad with olive oil, creamed spinach, sourdough bread, peach ice cream. To me, that’s a relief. When you rule out industrial foods altogether, it does simplify things a bit.” These days, the former Loudoun County resident spends her days writing (her next book, Real Food for Mother and Baby, is just hitting the shelves now) and enjoying life with her partner, cheesemonger Rob Kaufelt, and their 2-year-old son, Julian. They’ve bought a farm in New Jersey, and she dreams of raising chickens and vegetables there one day—but only for her family, not to make a living. In winter, Planck incorporates more stored foods, like root vegetables, into the family diet, as well as exotic foods, like mangoes, which she won’t buy when local fruits are in season. She also orders organic citrus from small, independent, ecological producers. And she shops at supermarkets. “In the winter, I have to make the same choices as other cooks,” she says. “Like whether to buy local greens grown in greenhouses, which require a lot of fuel oil to heat, or the head of lettuce available at the corner shop. Often, it’s the corner shop, because a daily green salad is important to us.” Kathleen Valenzi Knaus is the former editor of Albemarle magazine and the University of Virginia’s alumni magazine. When not writing, she provides deep-relaxation and personal coaching to people through her business, Red Repose. She can be reached at kathleen@redhill.net.

Nina Planck www.ninaplanck.com Local Food www.localfood.info Real Food Markets www.realfood.info

artisans & entrepreneurs

One Family’s Farm-to-Pie Movement photos by molly mcdonald peterson

Heidi Baumstark

These pies are made with fresh ingredients and a commitment to local farmers and the community. We’re local. We’re fresh. We’re real. These words stare from a plaque hanging on the wall at Mom’s Apple Pie Company, where you’ll find preservative-free pies made with as many local ingredients—including many from the owners’ own farm—as they can get. Mom’s Apple Pie Company began in the kitchen of Avis Renshaw and her husband, Steven Cox, in the early 1980s. “It started with Steven and me peeling apples from local farms and baking pies in our Herndon home. I’d bring them to the Reston Farm Market, which was this little market stand,” Renshaw recalls. One day the owner of the market asked her to tell him the name of her pies. “They’re pies!” she answered matter-offactly, but he kept pressing her for a name. Renshaw—who was then nine months pregnant—finally blurted out, “They’re Mom’s apple pies!” That market stand has since grown into three retail locations (in Leesburg, Occoquan, and Warrenton) and a fruitful online business.

“Did you know you can get 80 pies in the back of a Volkswagen Rabbit?” —Avis Renshaw

A Fresh Start When Cox and Renshaw started baking pies more than 20 years ago, there were only a few dozen natural food supermarkets in the whole country, so Renshaw contacted a local Safeway to see whether the manager would sell her pies. The next day, she took 20 of her family’s homemade creations to the store, where they sold quickly. Word spread like wildfire, and she soon found herself delivering her freshly baked pies to other stores as well. “Did you know you can get 80 pies in the back of a Volkswagen Rabbit?” Renshaw jokingly asks. Their client list grew to 45 Safeway stores over a 15-year period. They also sold many specialty breads, the most popular being the Sunflower Crunch Loaf. People who were used to European-style breads loved what Cox and Renshaw were making. Renshaw and Cox use about 39 acres on their farm in rural Lucketts to grow the fruits and vegetables for their pie company. Rows of rhubarb, pumpkins, strawberries, and bramble fruits such as blackberries and red and black raspberries are planted for pie-making. Marker-Miller Orchards in Winchester supplies fresh, crisp apples and perfectly ripe peaches.

“We make the pies just like you would at home, with no preservatives,” Renshaw says. Sugar is used sparingly so that the fresh fruit flavor can be savored. Fruits are sprinkled with a touch of cornstarch and then hand-tossed before being spilled into a prepared crust. Old-fashioned all-butter crusts are used for whatever fruits happen to be in season and are almost always used with the signature apple pie. Pies are either crowned with the traditional flaky butter crust and brushed with an egg wash for added sheen and color, or topped with a crumbly mixture of flour, cornmeal, brown and white sugars, chopped pecans, and butter. Sugar-free crusts are available.

Pie and Then Some Most days, family members and staff make hundreds of pies. In the busy season of Thanksgiving, their daily production is closer to 5,000 pies. The bulk of the baking is done at the Warrenton and Occoquan stores. Baking starts early every morning. After a pie comes out of the oven, it takes about 6 hours to reach room temperature, at which point it is wrapped. Mom’s offers more than 25 varieties of pies—including fruit, bourbon walnut, almond amaretto chess, Boston cream, and meringue—and even thick, decadent cheesecakes. All three locations offer quaint seating spots for guests to enjoy a slice of pie, or another treat, and a hot cup of coffee. Mom’s sells a variety of breads and cookies, ranging from chocolate-dipped chewy macaroons to classic chocolate chip cookies and cut-out cookies with shapes such as shamrocks for St. Patrick’s Day. (Look for dragonfly, ladybug, and flower-shaped cookies in springtime.) This is not just a dessert destination, though. Mom’s staff also bakes quiches made with corn, spinach, asparagus, and herbs—all from the family farm in Lucketts. The Leesburg store even sells hand-crafted pottery made by a local artisan. www.flavormags.com

A Family Affair Buying Mom’s pies is as easy as, well, pie. If you aren’t near one of the three retail locations—two of which are converted gas stations—you can place an order online for pies, cookies, and breads. Mom’s pies and breads are also sold at Cox Farms in Centreville during its fall festival. Mom’s co-founder Cox and his brother, Eric, opened a small roadside stand in Vienna in the 1970s to pay for college. Before that, “they would load up wheelbarrows and go door-to-door in Herndon selling strawberries,” Renshaw says. This humble endeavor blossomed into the 116acre Cox Farms, widely known for its annual fall festival. Fabbioli Cellars in Leesburg also features Mom’s pies during some events held at the vineyard. Renshaw says Fabbioli’s Raspberry Merlot pairs nicely with many of their fruit pies. Petra Cox—Cox and Renshaw’s daughter—manages the store in Occoquan. In July 2006, she was featured on the Food Network’s Road Tasted show hosted by Jamie and Bobby Deen, when the Deen brothers came to learn firsthand about the family business.

limiting development on the property. This preserves not only a local, sustainable farm, but also a property with historical and ecological significance.

Local Legends The hard work—on the farm, in the kitchens, at the stores— pays off. Mom’s Apple Pie Company has built a loyal following. Even President Barack Obama has been known to eat a piece of these from-scratch pies. One of Obama’s stops when he was in Virginia trying to garner votes in October 2008 was Leesburg’s Ida Lee Park. When campaign organizers wanted a local company to supply baked goods to the senator and his team, they contacted the Mom’s store in Leesburg in search of Obama’s favorite—sweet potato pie. Mom’s offers the best in comfort food in every season. The late American astronomer and writer Carl Sagan once said, “If you want to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first create the universe.” Seems like this Virginia family has that recipe down. Heidi Baumstark is a reporter for a bimonthly newspaper covering western Prince William County and parts of Fauquier County. She specializes in writing history-related articles for the region.

Mom’s recipe for corn quiche can be found on page 37.

The Occoquan store doubles as an old-fashioned general store, selling cheeses as well as pesticide-free corn, tomatoes, squash, green beans, eggplant, and other in-season produce from their farm. “The bulk of the farming is done by hand— with Steven and our son, Tyson, doing the lion’s share. Steven is a big believer in minimum tilling, so most of the planting is done by hand in old raised beds,” Renshaw explains. Cox and Renshaw are committed to using the freshest ingredients possible and to supporting local farmers and winemakers by using and selling their products. Other goods you’ll find at the Occoquan store include some Virginia wines, including a white wine from winemaker Ben Renshaw, Renshaw’s brother: Lo.Co. Vino, made under the 8 Chains North label, is a blend of Traminette and Vidal Blanc. He is the vintner of Furnace Mountain Vineyards, located on part of the property belonging to Cox and Renshaw. Renshaw notes that their Loudoun County property, which overlooks the banks of the Potomac River, is where Robert E. Lee’s Confederate soldiers forded the waters of the Potomac on their way to the Battle of Antietam, commonly referred to as the “bloodiest day in American military history.” In April 2008, the property was voluntarily placed into a conservation easement with the Northern Virginia Conservation Trust, permanently 22

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Mom’s Apple Pie Company momsapplepieco.com 220 Loudoun Street S.E., Leesburg (703) 771-8590 126-A Commerce Street, Occoquan (703) 497-7437 22 Waterloo Street, Warrenton (540) 347-2075

rebel with a cause · fragmentstfromfloyd.com

Purchasing T&E Meats Joel Salatin

fred first

The local food movement has an acute need for community-based abattoirs.

months in advance. Imagine if you had to schedule surgery or auto repair work 6 months in advance.

Long ago, killing, cutting, and packaging an animal was an artisanal vocation. Every community had an abattoir, just like every community had a water-powered grain mill. These were common because they were crucial to community life. The butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker—these craftspeople, imbedded in villages and towns, were the vital links between raw and finished products.

Like many other livestock farmers, we sold beef and pork by the side, quarter, or whole, commonly called freezer beef. Because the food police decided that individual cuts of meat had to pass state or federal inspection before they could be sold, directmarketing producers like me sold animals live and tagged them with customers’ names before they entered the abattoir. This custom butchering system—in which individual packages are stamped “Not for Sale”—offered a legal, technical loophole to sell meat to local customers.

etween the shiny-coated, cud-chewing 1,000-pound steer lounging in the pasture and the backyard grill is an abattoir. Webster’s New World Dictionary defines abattoir concisely and precisely: “a slaughterhouse.”

Even in the 1960s, every rural hamlet had an abattoir. But with the onset of processed food and more onerous food safety regulations, this rural resource died out until only a few remained. America lost thousands of these businesses from the mid 1960s through 2000, when the heritage food movement awakened. For someone like me who has been raising pastured-based livestock, processing it, and selling the meat and poultry to local customers for nearly half a century, the demise of the local abattoir spelled doom. Farmers gave this process over to butchers long ago because seldom can one person be expert at numerous crafts—seldom do such divergent talents grow on the same pair of legs.

Insatiable Demand Between 1990 and 2000, a local-food great awakening occurred. Food-borne bacteria and a host of new pathogens fueled by industrial fecal-factory farming made headlines daily, with news stories and recalls. Our Shenandoah Valley farm, Polyface, suddenly went from old-fashioned to hip. With production and sales steadily increasing—and taking all our money and time—we depended completely on the local abattoir to occupy that traditional butcher’s spot between field and fork. I remember when not a single person in 10 had ever heard the terms organic or grass-finished. Sales were hard to come by. But almost overnight, the mainstream decided our farm was progressive. Bonanza time. But butchers were dying—literally. And meat processing, rather than being a respected, coveted skill, became less acceptable than janitorial work. Here I was, riding a demand wave seemingly without a crest, but I couldn’t get my cows and pigs dead. With the abattoirs gone, we had to reserve kill-floor space 6

But as industrial food became more unacceptable and local meat became increasingly sought after, we saw many newcomers who weren’t savvy enough to buy quarters, halves, and wholes. Many didn’t even have a freezer. They wanted a T-bone steak today and pork chops tomorrow. Those of us in the business faced the real dilemma of an insatiable market demand for product that we had, but could not legally sell unless it went through an inspected abattoir. And the number of people who wanted to buy a quarter, half, or whole steadily declined. By 1990, as far as I can tell, the entire Shenandoah Valley had only 1 federally inspected abattoir (T&E Meats in Harrisonburg) and 1 state-inspected facility (Gore’s in Edinburgh) left. Farmers in Crozet were hauling single steers clear to West Virginia in order to sell T-bone steaks in Charlottesville. Now you know why this meat is expensive.

Cause and Effect The government-required infrastructure to make a legal sale had pushed small-scale abattoirs to the brink of extinction. Regulations favored large facilities to the detriment of smaller ones. The production and market were both hot, but we farmers could not legally make the connection without an officially sanctioned abattoir. Through those years, Polyface used T&E Meats in Harrisonburg and gradually grew to become nearly half of their custom workload. Owned by Tommy and Erma May (hence “T&E”), the business had 3 income streams: a retail store, wholesale delivery, and custom work. The Mays had purchased the business 3 decades previously and as early as 2000 had approached me about purchasing it from them. They were entering their 70s and decided they www.flavormags.com

Intensive Discovery Seminar. Offered every 2 out of 3 years in July, this 2-day, 6-meal event attracts people from around the world, but never anyone locally. But here, amazingly, were 2 people (who had the same last name) coming from just the other side of Staunton.

should slow down a bit. Through hard work, tenacity, innovation, and integrity, they had weathered the lonely years—much like Polyface—but because of age, they were unable to turboboost their way into this new local food era. The last thing I wanted, or needed, was a slaughterhouse. I had my hands full raising cows, pigs, and chickens. I didn’t need any more on my plate (pun unintended). Numerous potential buyers visited the plant, and each time the sale fell through. I watched from the periphery, quizzing Tommy on any new prospects. I also took several prospects to see Tommy myself. Meanwhile, at Polyface, business was booming. We increased our flow of animals through the plant. Customers loved our pastured-based meat and poultry. Life was good . . . but business was terrifyingly fragile. As our restaurant and retail trade escalated, I realized that our farm’s future and success were completely dependent on T&E. Whatever happened to it, happened to us. For a supposedly sustainable farm, we could not be more vulnerable. We had a business built on sand. I began taking people to see the plant, which is in an industrial neighborhood near Eastern Mennonite University. “Want to buy a plant?” became my greeting. Here at Polyface, we were becoming desperate. I prayed, “Don’t let anything happen to Tommy.” Tommy turned 80 in 2007. He had a couple of illnesses. He was slowing down. The business was on a downward trajectory, unable to compensate for the owners’ natural slowing down. I felt like I was living a lie by telling the world that our farm was sustainable, when the reality was that if Tommy had suffered a heart attack, T&E would have closed within a month and Polyface would lose its restaurants and 75 percent of its customers. I cannot describe the emotional stress we were under here at the farm, trying to maintain our smiles and upbeat persona when with customers, journalists, and photographers, while deeply concerned about our most important partner—T&E.

Then Came Joe In the summer of 2006, a most unusual thing happened. Two local names appeared on our registration list for the Polyface 24

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Their son Joe, a quite successful midcareer urban planner and landscape architect in Seattle, was ready for a change. None of his other 3 siblings lived near his aging parents. He yearned to do some food production, to be close enough to help his mother with his dad’s care and the yard maintenance. They attended the Polyface seminar as mother and son to see what new ideas they could bring to their farm. The new idea was to lease it to Polyface, with options to do their own production or to layer synergistic enterprises on the land. Polyface leased the farm on January 1, 2007, and began installing water lines, electric fences, and a corral for gentle livestock handling. That spring, on one of his routine trips home, Joe and I were talking when one thing led to another and I blurted out, “Want to buy a slaughterhouse?” He asked, “Can you take me up to look at it?” My heart skipped a beat. Like I had already done many times, I took a prospect up for the tour of T&E. Bless his heart, Tommy never tired of my prospects. Deservedly proud of his accomplishments, he showed off every nook and cranny. To make a long story short, Joe decided this was his ticket home. His children were out of the house and it was a good time to move. He put his house on the market and, with his wife Brydie, moved to the valley. He spent days at T&E getting information, doing spreadsheets, imagining all sorts of scenarios. The list of “what ifs” occupied many discussions. Very early in the process, he asked me to

photos by mary lecompte

Polyface slaughters poultry at the farm, but “Pigaerator Pork” (above) and “Salad Bar Beef ” (below) are processed at T&E Meats.

Helen Cloud and her son, Joe, attended the seminar to get ideas for Greenmont, a paradise farm located near Fishersville, which Helen and her husband Bob had bought as a retirement project. The Clouds had their dreams altered violently when they were on a vacation in Italy shortly after retirement: Bob suffered a traumatic brain injury in a bicycle crash that occurred on a routine early morning jaunt. They leased the farm and Helen became Bob’s full-time caregiver.

partner in the purchase so I’d have skin in it and not be tempted to fly the coop if some other abattoir came along. Teresa, my wife, and I agreed to partner with Joe. As it turned out, we formed Salatin and Cloud, LLC, which officially bought the business at the end of June 2008. Joe is the general manager.

eggs. Our dream is to fill that all-important link between livestock farmers and their patrons with the best quality processing available in the mid-Atlantic region. Although the business is not yet making a profit—restarts are always harder than new starts—we’re making steady progress.

True & Essential

To preserve the facility’s heritage, we’ve kept the name T&E, but it now stands for “True and Essential.” We’re working with more and more chefs, especially in the D.C. area, as well as more local farmers wanting to sell to their neighbors. And we’ve even been accepted as a vendor for Sysco. If and when we have enough local product and enough local institutional demand, we can market to a broader base.

We actually owned it several months before we finally signed our formal partnership agreement. The honeymoon was too exciting to trifle with details. I admit to being a reluctant partner, and I depend on Joe entirely to operate the plant. But I’ve become more involved as we’ve gone through business tribulations: personnel, cash flow, learning curve, change of vision. We now have locally sourced meat and eggs in the retail store. Interestingly, before 1990, T&E carried local beef. But when livestock specialists at the local agricultural college began promoting feeding chicken manure to cattle, Tommy quit buying local beef because, he said, “I got tired of walking into the chill room [when] it smelled like chicken manure.” (Meanwhile, of course, USDA specialists assured consumers that there was no scientific evidence that chicken manure affected the meat.) As a part of our integrity policy, Joe and I source local meat only from farmers who do not feed poultry manure to their cows. We now offer grass-finished meat, pastured poultry, and pastured

The plant is old. We have huge infrastructure needs, from building maintenance to equipment to more refrigeration. But with the support of our staff and our community, Joe and I are optimistic that T&E will serve the Shenandoah Valley local meat network into the future. Ultimately, that will link the past to the present by linking the field to the fork.

T&E Meats 256 Charles Street Harrisonburg, VA 22802 (540) 434-4415

Eat local. Discover the delicious flavors of Virginia. family farm produce, hand-made cheeses, country ham, cheese straws, peanuts, honey, chocolates, cookies, bbq sauces, chutneys, wine...

the Main Street Market ∙ 416 West Main Street ∙ (434) 244-7800 ∙ www.feastvirginia.com

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Stalking

flavor magazine â&#x20AC;˘ april/may 2009

Morels

Cristina Santiestevan

Hunting for morels is actually pretty easy—literally a stroll in the springtime woods. It’s finding the little mushrooms that’s the real challenge.

hen Amy Goins offered to take me hunting for morels, the caveat was that I’d need to travel blindfolded in the trunk of the car. She told me she was kidding—sort of.

The truth is that avid morel hunters are fiercely protective of their favorite spots and aren’t likely to reveal their secrets to anyone. “The very question will make a morel hunter as elusive as the mushroom itself,” warns Goins.

morels by art drauglis, redbuds by samantha r. p. ellis, tulip poplar by d. l. ennis

Combine tight-lipped morel seekers with the shyness of their quarry, and finding morels might seem like an impossible task. But trust in patience and luck, and you’ll find them. Eventually. “It took me three years to find my first morel,” says Goins. “And I looked everywhere.”

Begin with the Redbuds The calendar can be a fickle ally. Mid-April is generally considered high season for morel hunting, but seasonal variation and local conditions affect morels’ arrival dates much more than any calendar engagement. Mild springs can bring them out in midMarch, and some might still be around toward the end of May during cold years. Look to the trees for clues that will narrow your time frame. “I always start thinking about morel hunting as soon as the redbuds start to bloom,” says Goins. If you wait until the dogwoods are done blooming, you’ve waited too long—morel season generally runs from the first flush of pink on the redbuds to the end of the dogwood flowers. The Internet is another place to look. Several websites post alerts announcing morel season, and some host active forums where members share tips and swap stories. (See sidebar.) Learn to Recognize a Tulip Poplar Begin your search by looking for trees, not mushrooms. Tulip poplars are the tree of choice in the Piedmont, although hickory, sycamore, and dead or dying elms are also known to shelter

morels at their base. Learn to identify these common trees and your efforts may be rewarded with an ample harvest of morels. Minute variations in the terrain may also be clues to finding morels. As with most mushrooms, morels prefer soil that is moist but not soaking. Stream banks can be lucrative, and depressions at the base of boulders or fallen logs may also shelter a wealth of morels.

Adopt the Proper Morel-Hunting Swagger Before you start, it’s good to know what you’re looking for. Goins suggests bringing along a decoy for training purposes— a good-sized dried morel purchased from the grocery store. Prop the dried morel among the leaves and underbrush and practice seeing it. Challenge yourself by walking away from the decoy and then coming back to the area from a slightly different direction, or have a friend place the decoy when you aren’t looking. The practice will help you find the real thing, so it’s definitely worth it. But there’s more to finding morels than knowing what to look for. “There’s a certain morel-hunting swagger,” says Goins, who coaches novice foragers to adopt a speed-skating pose. “Lean forward about 45 degrees, clasp your arms behind your back, and look about 6 feet ahead,” says Amy. “This is how you walk through the woods.” Increase your chances by walking diagonally up or down hills: the change in elevation makes it easier to spot morels on the forest floor. Of course, knowing a good place to search is essential. Individuals with forested property have it easy, but foragers without www.flavormags.com

“I always go [foraging] too early because I just get giddy. I can’t control myself.” —morel hunter Amy Goins

Kevin Kraditor, proprietor of Sperryville’s Hopkins Ordinary Bed and Breakfast—and an experienced morel hunter—has provided these recipes and some advice. (Guests staying at the Ordinary in spring may request a morel-hunting trip.) Unlike Goins, Kraditor cleans his morels, noting that they are easier to clean if you cut them in half lengthwise, from base to tip. Real morels have a hollow center. Discard any that do not have a hollow center—these are poisonous “false morels.” Soak the halves in salt water, and dry thoroughly by placing them on paper towels. It is also crucial that you cook your morels, because raw morels are toxic.

Morel and Asparagus Omelets Serves 2.

6 asparagus spears 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup fresh morels, cleaned 2 tablespoons chopped scallions Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 eggs 1 tablespoon heavy cream 1 tablespoon butter 3 ounces chèvre or other soft goat cheese, cut into small pieces 1 sprig fresh parsley, chopped

Cut the asparagus on the diagonal, into ½-inch pieces, reserving the top of each for garnish.

land may need to venture farther afield. Goins suggests asking for permission if you’re foraging on private land. Some land owners might want to come along for the hunt, while others will happily accept a portion of the spoils. State and national parks and forests are also potential hunting grounds, but be sure to follow local regulations regarding mushroom collection. You’ll need to pack some gear, such as collecting bags. Plastic and paper bags are decidedly out. Instead, use mesh bags or loosely woven baskets that allow the harvested morels to spread their spores through the forest. Goins also carries a pocketknife, which makes it easier to harvest the mushrooms. Two or three high-quality guidebooks with clear photographs are also a good idea. While some morel hunters use walking sticks to poke among the leaves, Goins is adamantly opposed to such a practice. She considers herself a leave-no-traces morel hunter. “Morels reveal themselves when they’re ready to be found.” 28

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

Heat a sauté pan over medium-high heat and add oil. When oil is hot, add asparagus and mushrooms. Sauté for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until asparagus and mushrooms are well wilted. Add the scallions and salt and pepper to taste. Sauté 1 minute more or until there is little or no liquid in the pan. Remove from heat. Whisk eggs, cream, a good pinch of salt, and a healthy grating of black pepper. Heat two omelet pans over medium-high heat. Melt ½ tablespoon butter in each pan. After the butter has melted and the foam subsides, pour half the egg mixture into each pan and stir gently, from the outer edges of the pan toward the center. After about a minute or so (or when the egg has very little liquid), spoon half the asparagus-mushroom mixture onto the center of each omelet and top with half the goat cheese. Flip or fold the omelets and use two wooden spoons or heatproof rubber spatulas to tuck any loose ingredients under the body of the omelet, and cook another 30 seconds. Slide the omelets onto warm plates and sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley and top with the reserved asparagus tips. Serve immediately.

And Enjoy the Harvest Goins is very clear: “Never wash a morel. Ever.” Instead, clean your bounty with a gentle mushroom brush. “Morels have this wonderful nutty, but delicate, flavor,” says Goins, who believes the forest mushrooms require very little adornment in the kitchen. Simply sautéing them in butter brings out the best flavors. Enjoy your morels year-round by drying them. You can use a dehydrator, if you have one, but air-drying is easier: simply hang the mushrooms in a dry place, such as above your oven. You’ll know they’re dry enough if they rattle when shaken in a jar. If they clunk, they need more drying time. Store dried morels in a sealed glass jar. Properly dried mushrooms will easily last until the next morel season—if you can wait that long to eat them. The rule of thumb is the darker the morel, the stronger the flavor. And just as dried herbs are more potent than fresh, dried morels will have a more intense flavor than fresh morels. Of course, if you’re going to eat them, first you need to find them. Luckily, finding morels is half the fun. You’ll have better luck if you wait for the redbuds to bloom, but there’s nothing wrong with trying earlier. “I always go out too early because I just get giddy,” admits Goins. “I can’t control myself.” Cristina Santiestevan writes about nature, conservation, and green living from her home in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Don’t Be a Bold Mushroom Hunter

coming fall 2009

Many wild mushrooms are delicious, but others can be famously toxic. “This is not a hobby to take lightly,” warns Goins, who believes morels are a very safe choice for novice foragers. Here are some ways to learn about foraging for mushrooms and other wild edibles.

Join a Club Mycological Association of Washington, D.C. www.mawdc.org

Read Guidebooks Be sure you choose a guidebook with high-quality photos of North American mushrooms. Goins recommends the National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Mushrooms.

Learn More Online morelmania.com mushroomexpert.com morelmushroomhuntingclub.com

virginia

Virginia’s Premier Wine Magazine

Exercising Virginians’ rights to life, liberty & the pursuit of great wine with regular contributions from

Jim Law · Linden Vineyards Luca Paschina · Barboursville Vineyards Gabrielle Rausse · Gabrielle Rausse Winery For information on advertising in this exciting new quarterly publication, contact us at info@flavormags.com or (540) 987-9299.

virginia

• Winter

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Janie Henderson | I was invited to this party by my son Gabriel because I’ve gardened for a long time and I love to garden. I’ve gardened in Scotland, Germany, and Canada—so much so that I’ve learned a lot about planting, flowers, greenhouses, you name it. I grew up in a family that grew almost all of its food. We worked in the garden as children almost all day during the summers. Jesse Straight | I started a large, urban CSA in Charlottesville’s 10th and Page neighborhood 2 years ago, and the gardening conversation tonight reminded me of all the mistakes I made in my first garden. I’m glad that a community is forming here so at least we can share seeds when the time comes.

Gabe Henderson | The idea for the garden party started on New Year’s Eve when a group of us were sitting around and talking about gardening. We got excited about the upcoming season, so I helped plan an official event.

Tom Hughes | This year I want to grow wheat on a 30-foot-by-30-foot plot in the middle of Charlottesville so I can stand in the center and have the experience of the High Plains.

Garden Planning Party Ross McDermott

Ken Margolius | I’ve been gardening for over 25 years in D.C., Maryland, Ohio, Vermont, and Virginia. I’m educationally trained as a horticulturalist, but in terms of gardening, I’ve done mostly commercial market growing. The challenge I had tonight was not to overwhelm people with advice but instead encourage the first-time gardeners to start simple.

Rebecca Phalen | I don’t know anything about gardening, and I have trouble keeping things alive! But someday I want to work on an organic farm, so I came to this party to learn. I thought it would be a good place to start.

B. R. Stewart | I just left Foxhaven Farms [in Charlottesville] after 8 years, so now I’m really missing my compost pile. I’m not sure about my garden for 2009, because now I’m tending to something else [pointing to her pregnant belly].

Anthony Nappi | I help pick strawberries.

group of friends, mostly gardeners, gathered over food and a warm fire in January to discuss and plan for their gardens. The event was hosted at the house of Emily and Wheeler Gum, amateur gardeners who hope to get their shovels dirty this spring in a backyard garden.

The guests of honor were Ken Margolius and Janie Henderson, experts in the fields of gardening and horticulture, respectively. They answered questions, offered advice, and helped the group generally plan for smart, manageable gardens—all this around a potluck meal, drinks, and seed catalogs! If you haven’t been invited to such an inspirational gathering, host one. Gather interested friends and acquaintances together for a chance to glean wisdom from more experienced gardeners, to collaborate with neighbors on a community garden, or to simply find new inspiration for your own kitchen garden. Ross McDermott is a documentary photographer based in Charlottesville. He is currently on the road for the American Festivals Project, a yearlong look at America’s small, hidden, and bizarre festivals. He is a 2008 National Geographic Young Explorers grantee.

in the garden

Backyard Buffet Tracey Crehan Gerlach

Your landscaping can be both beautiful and edible.

t started with a hardy kiwi—more importantly, with the keen ability to propagate a hardy kiwi. And Michael McConkey, owner of the Edible Landscaping nursery and a lifelong gardener, was propelled into the world of harvest-able landscapes.

Mountains in Afton, the backbones of the nursery’s orchards and the silhouettes of the fig trees showed the promise of spring as well as the potential for edible options in Virginia that weren’t even on my radar.

With a love of nurturing things going back to his childhood (he tended his own garden before the age of 10), McConkey found himself amidst the grow-your-own movement of the 1970s. He spent time traveling, learning, exploring.

Starts of herbs like chocolate mint and fruit trees such as flowering apricot prepare for the upcoming season in the mist and the humidity of their respective greenhouses. Shiitake logs sit stacked at-the-ready for their first spring flush. Visiting the citrus greenhouse filled with Meyer lemons, Kaffir limes, and mangoes is like a mini-vacation. My mental wish list for my own garden keeps growing.

And then he met Dr. Elwyn Meader, a rare-plant specialist and fruit breeder from the University of New Hampshire, who gave McConkey his first cutting of the hardy kiwi. When an article about Meader and the kiwi variety came out a year later in a well-known gardening magazine, McConkey was listed as a go-to source for the plant.

From Hobby to Vocation Things took on a farm-to-table meaning when McConkey became a vegetarian and relied on his green thumb to supply him with his own food. That was when, he says, he realized what fun it all is. And even on a late-winter visit to his 25-acre nursery, I too realized what fun it all is. Perched atop a foothill of the Blue Ridge

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

But I quietly admit to Sonja Reid of the Edible Landscaping staff that I am intimidated by fruit trees and the more unusual offerings. I am primarily a vegetable gardener curious about branching out. Contrary to what I originally thought about Edible Landscaping, it is not just for the wizened, weathered, know-it-all gardener. It is the perfect place to start learning, and many plants can be grown and tended by new gardeners. According to McConkey, juneberries, persimmons, mulberries, and pawpaw are “dummy proof ”—yes!—in terms of planting and cultivation requirements once they are established.

crocuses by leslie marie grace s saffron by rachel ellice photography

Choosing native plants is also a good start for beginners. “Natives understand our [weather] swings,” McConkey explains. All of the beginner plants mentioned above are natives to our area, as are filberts (hazelnuts).

The Cornucopia Edible Landscaping truly brings horticultural resources and confidence to the people. Customers are sent home with a succinct care sheet for each plant that they buy. The nursery’s online “Plant Talk” forums offer support from seasoned gardeners living around the country. Events like All About Fruit Days—offered in June and September—include tastings of some of the more unique plants, such as the pawpaw. And the nursery ships plants: in fact, a majority of their business is mail order. For the more intrepid gardener, McConkey suggests Edible Landscaping’s Russian pomegranate trees, descendents of a line developed in the Soviet Union over 4 decades by Dr. Gregory Levin. When the USSR dissolved, Levin lost funding for his project and chose to disperse his best selections to various horticultural institutions across the globe.

In the Edible Landscaping catalog, I learn that “George Washington’s favorite dessert was chilled pawpaw.” You will find a hefty selection of plants that are closer to what you would expect in Virginia, like blueberry, blackberry, apple, fig, passionflower, rhubarb, strawberry, apricot, and raspberry plants. I also learned about a Virginia-hardy orange (meaning that it will live through our winters), the Flying Dragon. The fruit is not meant to be eaten as-is, but it is ideal for citrus-ades, marmalades, and jams. And then, if you have the outfit to replicate the tropics, there are bananas, dragon fruit, coffee, guava, star fruit, pineapples, and mangoes to be had. And, of course, the hardy kiwi. Edible Landscaping has another interesting plant, especially for an avid cook—saffron crocuses. Collect the center stigmas of these fall bloomers, and you will have this very expensive spice at your fingertips for your favorite sauces or risottos. Chefs will also appreciate herbs such as horseradish, sweet bay laurel, lemongrass, Thai ginger, and garlic chives. The pawpaw appears on several of McConkey’s recommendation lists (see sidebar). Having never tasted one, I am told it is like a very ripe banana. And in the Edible Landscaping catalog, I learn that “George Washington’s favorite dessert was chilled pawpaw.” Well, then. www.flavormags.com

The nursery’s choices are delightfully dizzying and my own wish list starts to flesh out. Mulberries for cobblers, a shiitake log, supersweet Caroline Everbearing raspberries, and a fig tree. Phew.

Well Within Reach I am a gardening coach, and more and more often I am hearing requests for edible backyards from clients and friends. Function over form. No matter the size of their plot, property, or deck. They want fresh vegetables and fruits within fuzzy-slipper distance—as one of my favorite horticulture teachers used to say. It’s a good time of year to rethink the garden and swap out some of those fussy ornamentals for something that’ll show up on your plate

that evening without burning fossil fuels, without questionable pesticides, without the middleman. With Edible Landscaping right here in the Piedmont, getting involved in your own grow-your-own movement doesn’t need to involve a daunting initiation. For McConkey, a sense of accomplishment is bringing home a bushel of Russian pomegranates. For me, this season, it will be a handful of shiitakes and maybe a bowl of mulberries. Tracey Crehan Gerlach is an organic garden coach and lives in Sugar Hollow, west of Charlottesville. She writes about her own gardening adventures at www.lifeinsugarhollow.blogspot.com.

Edible Landscaping 361 Spirit Ridge Lane, Afton questions (434) 361-9134 orders (800) 524-4156 www.ediblelandscaping.com

Recommendations for the Piedmont Shade and Semishade Saffron crocus, elderberry, wineberry, shiitake mushroom log, pawpaw, alpine strawberry.

Providing an environmentally friendly way to protect your landscape

♦ Integrated Pest Management With Organic Options ♦ Soil Nutrient Management

♦ Pruning of Ornamental Trees and Shrubs ♦ Invasive Plant Control

Additional Services Available

Call 540-675-3084 to schedule an appointment

Container Gardening “Try a Sunshine Blue Blueberry,” McConkey recommends. “It will do well in a whiskey barrel. It is pretty and compact and should thrive because you will be able to control the soil conditions.” Small-Space Gardening Northstar cherry, fig, blueberry, pomegranate, alpine strawberry. Drought-Tolerant Favorites Juneberry, mulberry, pawpaw, filbert (hazelnut), persimmon, jujube. Top Berry Picks for Our Area Caroline Everbearing raspberry and English Thornless raspberry. Most Popular Edibles for Our Area Blueberry, fig, persimmon, pawpaw. Up for Something Totally Different? Try the che—very easy to grow and a beautiful ornamental in the autumn. Its fruits are like figs, yet seedless. Eat Your Edibles McConkey recommends swapping out the typical blueberries with the spring harvest of mulberries in any of your favorite cobbler or muffin recipes.

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

persimmon, pawpaw, and figs courtesy edible landscaping s blueberries by amanda krueger

The shiitake logs, Reid tells me, are very popular and hard to keep in stock. White oak logs, about 40 inches long, have holes drilled into them and are then plugged with shiitake spores. To maintain this super-low maintenance mushroom, just place the log in dappled shade and water regularly. It can produce shiitakes for 4 years.

seasonal table Local Morel Mushroom Risotto with Rosemary Cream and Chive Oil

The Inn at Meander Plantation, Locust Dale If you are preparing the risotto ahead of time, spread the fully prepared risotto on a baking sheet to cool and then refrigerate it. Alternatively, if you will not serve the risotto immediately, cook the rice to about 75 percent of doneness and fold in morels and heavy cream when reheating. —executive chef David Scales

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 45 minutes

Serves 4 as entree.

For the risotto 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil ½ cup finely diced onion 1 cup Arborio rice 1 cup white wine 3 cups vegetable stock Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup diced fresh morels ½ cup heavy cream

In a stainless steel or nonstick pan over medium-high heat, sweat onion in 3 tablespoons olive oil for 3 minutes and then add rice. Pour in wine and reduce to nearly dry. Add stock in 1-cup increments, stirring constantly. This should take about 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste.

For the sauce 2 cups white wine (good, drinkable wine) 6 cups heavy cream 4 sprigs rosemary Salt and pepper

Combine all liquids and reduce slowly over low heat until thick (sauce consistency). Strain.

For the oil 3 cups roughly chopped chives 1 cup roughly chopped spinach 1 tablespoon water 3 cups canola oil Pinch of salt

Blanch chives in boiling water for 1 minute and then shock in ice water. Put chives, spinach, and water in a blender. Pulse 5 times on low speed. Add oil. Increase blender speed to high and purée until oil is dark green and well puréed. Strain in a fine strainer or chinois overnight in the refrigerator. Pour into squeeze bottle and store in refrigerator. This will keep for 7 days.

In a separate pan, sauté morels in 1 tablespoon olive oil. Fold morels and heavy cream into rice and serve immediately.

Add rosemary sprigs to liquid. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Leave rosemary in to steep for 5 minutes. Remove rosemary sprigs. Reheat if needed over low heat and serve.

Assembling and serving Spoon risotto onto center of plate or use a ring mold if desired. Circle risotto with rosemary cream sauce, and then run a line of chive oil through sauce in a thin line.

morels foraged and photographed in virginia by art drauglis

www.flavormags.com

seasonal table Cream of Radish Leaf Soup with Tartines of Radishes & Homemade Farm Cheese

Laughing Duck Gardens & Cookery, Washington, Va. One of the earliest spring vegetables, radishes are too often eaten as an afterthought, with only the crunchy root consumed. However, the tops and the immature seed pods are all edible—perfect for the frugal gourmet. For this recipe, make sure to obtain the freshest radish bunches with leaves as young as possible. The tartines (open-faced sandwiches) are made with homemade cheese and the radish roots. S Because the cheese is so simple, it can only be as good as the milk you use: organic whole milk from a local dairy is ideal. No matter what, do not use ultra-pasteurized milk because ultra-pasteurization prevents the cheese from setting. S Make the cheese first and then use the leftover whey (what’s left of the milk after the cheese is made) in the soup. Prep the veggies while the milk is heating, and make the soup while the cheese is draining, so that the total recipe should only take about 75 minutes from start to finish. S If you prefer, you may use a fresh, mild, store-bought cheese instead of making the cheese. In that case, replace the 3 cups of whey called for in the soup with a combination of good-quality chicken broth and milk. —owner Sylvie Rowand, personal chef, kitchen gardener, cooking instructor & kitchen garden coach Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as main dish.

For the cheese Total cooking time: 1 hour • Total active time: 20 minutes Yields 1 to 1½ cups cheese.

1 quart whole milk, preferably organic, not ultra-pasteurized ½ teaspoon salt, preferably kosher or cheese salt 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

In a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat, bring milk and salt to a bare simmer, stirring often to prevent scorching and a burned taste. When tiny bubbles form at the edge of the pan—which may take as long as 15 minutes—stir in the lemon juice. (A thermometer, if you

For the soup and the tartines Preparation time: 10 minutes • Cooking time: 35 minutes

2 medium leeks 2 tablespoons butter 2 bunches fresh, young radishes with leaves 2 medium all-purpose or baking potatoes, such as Yukon Gold 3 cups whey, leftover from cheesemaking, or a combination of good-quality chicken broth and milk (for example, 1½ cups broth and 1½ cups milk). 1 cup half-and-half Salt and pepper to taste Trim roots off leeks and cut off dark green leafy part (which can be saved for making broth). Thinly slice white and light-green parts. Wash well by swishing in a bowl of water. Spin dry in a lettuce spinner or gently pat dry with clean kitchen towels.

Assembling and serving 1 country-style baguette A few sprigs of chives, finely minced Fresh cheese (recipe above) Sliced radishes, leftover from soup preparations

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

use one, should read 190–200 F). Remove from heat. Cover and let sit for about 20 minutes. Line a colander with a double layer of muslin cheesecloth. Set the colander over a large bowl or pan to catch the whey (which can be used for soup). Pour the milk mixture into the colander. Tie the opposite corners of the cheesecloth together. Slide a long-handled spoon through the bundle and rest the spoon over the rim of a bowl or pan so that the bundle is not touching the bottom of the pan. Let the cheese drip drain for about 30 minutes, reserving whey. Scoop cheese out of the cloth, put in a jar, and refrigerate for up to a week if not serving immediately. In a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat, melt butter and sweat leeks for about 10 minutes. Leeks should not brown but gently sauté. Adjust heat accordingly. Meanwhile, trim tops of radishes and set roots aside. Wash radish tops well. Spin dry in a lettuce spinner or gently pat dry with clean kitchen towels. Chop roughly. Scrub and dice potatoes. Add chopped radish tops and potatoes to leeks. Add whey. Bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover and simmer until potatoes are very tender, about 20 minutes. While the soup is cooking, wash radishes and trim any remaining tops and roots. Slice radishes and put them in a serving bowl. Set aside. Carefully purée the hot soup in your blender in small batches or with an immersion blender. Pass the soup through a fine mesh sieve, pressing hard on any solids, before returning the liquids to the pan, so the final texture is velvety and no fibrous leaf part remains. Add the half-and-half and salt and pepper to taste. Heat gently until hot, but do not let it boil. Cut the baguette in 4 pieces and then cut each piece in half lengthwise. Toast or grill the bread. Spread 4 slices of toasted bread with some farm cheese and top with radish slices. Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle with chives, and serve with the tartines on the side. Bring extra bread, radishes, and cheese to the table so people can make additional tartines or munch on them.

seasonal table

Corn Quiche

Mom’s Apple Pie Company I suggest you get free-range eggs from a neighbor and that you freeze corn off the cob in season for use year-round. We use Appalachian cheese from Meadow Creek Dairy in Galax. —chef & owner Avis Renshaw Cooking time: 45 minutes

Serves 4–6.

Butter pie crust in pie dish 5 eggs 1/3 cup milk 1 cup cream Kernels from 2 cobs sweet corn ½ red bell pepper, chopped into ½-inch cubes ¼ medium sweet onion, chopped into ½-inch cubes ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup shredded cheese or Asiago cheese

Preheat oven to 350 F. Mix together eggs, milk, and cream in a bowl. Place corn kernels, chopped pepper, onion, salt, and shredded cheese into crust shell. Pour egg mixture on top. Bake for 1 hour until quiche pie is puffy and slightly browned.

radishes grown at the farm at sunnyside, photographed by gardiner lapham

Sausage with Escarole and Peppers

Forlano’s Market, The Plains I grew up eating this dish. For my own recipe, I use locally raised pork to make homemade Italian sausage. —chef Nick Forlano Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 medium onion, sliced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 3 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into ½-inch strips

Serves 2 as an entree or 4 as an appetizer.

1 pound Italian sausage, roasted and sliced 1 head escarole, washed and chopped into 2-inch pieces ¼ teaspoon dry red pepper flakes, crushed ¼ cup dry white wine ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish

In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Melt butter in the oil. Add onion, garlic, and peppers. Cook until onions and peppers start to brown. Add sausage to onions and peppers. Toss in escarole and crushed red pepper flakes. Mix well. Deglaze with the wine. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with grated Parmesan cheese. www.flavormags.com

seasonal table Traditional Red Cabbage

The Bavarian Chef, Madison This versatile, fun, and tasty recipe goes well with beef, chicken, and pork dishes. —chef & owner Jerome Thalwitz Cooking time: 45 minutes Serves 4–6.

2 heads red cabbage, sliced into thin juliennes 1 medium yellow onion, diced into small brunoise 2 cups diced apples, preferably Granny Smith 2 cups red cooking wine 1 cup red wine vinegar 2 cups sugar 3 cloves 2 bay leaves Salt and black pepper to taste ½ cup cornstarch 1 cup water

Combine all ingredients (except cornstarch and water) into a large pot. Cook over medium heat until cabbage is tender, about 1 hour. Combine cornstarch with water and slowly stir into pot until red cabbage thickens. Remove from heat and serve. cabbages grown at the farm at sunnyside, photographed by gardiner lapham rhubarb at the charlottesville city market, photographed by spicy bear media strawberries grown at oak shade farm

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

seasonal table Caramelized Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake with Strawberries & Whipped Cream

24 Crows, Flint Hill Every spring we wait impatiently for our favorite organic strawberries, grown by Jim and Sally Mello at Oak Shade Farm in Rixeyville. These strawberries are incredibly delicious! With luck, rhubarb usually appears from a neighbor’s garden. In this upside-down cake, we combine tart rhubarb with a sweet caramel and top the cake with sliced strawberries, fresh whipped cream, and a single violet garnish. —owner & chef Heidi Morf

Preparation time: 50 minutes For the caramel Butter for the cake pan ¾ cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons water 3 tablespoons butter ¾ pound rhubarb cut in ¾-inch pieces Butter a high-sided 9-inch cake pan, line the bottom and sides with parchment paper, and lightly butter bottom parchment. If a highsided pan isn’t available, extend the parchment an inch above the pan’s sides.

Cooking time: 1 hour

Caramel gets extremely hot. Handle with great care. In a small, heavy saucepan, bring sugar and water to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir until sugar is dissolved, brushing down the sides of the pan with cool water to remove any sugar crystals. Boil the sugar mixture, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is a golden color. Remove from heat and whisk in butter. Pour caramel into the prepared cake pan and tilt to distribute it evenly. Arrange rhubarb pieces over the caramel and set aside.

For the cake 1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ¼ cup cornmeal 1 teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 1 cup unsalted butter at room temperature 1½ cups granulated sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 teaspoon lemon zest ¾ cup milk

Preheat oven to 325 F.

For the strawberries & whipped cream 1 pint strawberries, washed and sliced 2 tablespoons sugar (or to taste) 1 cup heavy cream

Sprinkle 1 tablespoon sugar over berries, toss, and let rest for 10 minutes to dissolve sugar and draw out juice. Whip cream and 1 tablespoon sugar with whisk attachment in an electric mixer or by hand until soft peaks form.

Sift flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream butter using the paddle attachment. Add sugar and beat until smooth and well-blended. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating after each addition. Add vanilla and lemon zest. Beating at low speed, add flour mixture in 3 parts, alternating with the milk. Beat until smooth, scraping the sides of bowl as necessary. Spread the batter over the rhubarb and bake 1 hour or until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool for 5 minutes and turn onto a cake plate. Remove parchment.

Assembling and serving Cut cake into 8 pieces. Spoon strawberries, with juices, over cake. Top with a dollop of whipped cream, and add a fresh violet garnish.

www.flavormags.com

Pasta with Purple-Sprouting Broccoli & Chilies

Adapted with permission from The Farmers’ Market Cookbook by Nina Planck Chili, garlic, and dark greens such as cavolo nero and broccoli are a classic Italian combination. S For a side dish, blanch purplesprouting broccoli in salted water and drain. Sauté a clove of garlic and 2 tablespoons mustard seeds. Then stir in the broccoli and serve. —Nina Planck Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 4.

6 cloves garlic, smashed, peeled, and finely chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil for frying 2 tablespoons pine nuts About 1½ pounds purple-sprouting broccoli, washed, trimmed, and cut into bite-sized pieces About 1 pound short pasta, such as penne 2 teaspoons dried chili flakes, or to taste 2 tablespoons best olive oil

VIRGINIA AGRICULTURE & FOOD ENTREPRENEURSHIP PROGRAM Presents workshops for FOOD-BASED BUSINESSES March 30 & April 6 Charlottesville, VA Topics will include: •Compliance with value-added food processing and food production safety, regulations, inspections & testing •Opportunities for marketing & selling •Business plan development and financials •Panel discussions featuring local ‘experts’ For more information, go to www.vafep.org Sponsored by USDA/SARE, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Piedmont Environmental Council, Central Virginia Small Business Development Center, Meet the Farmer TV, Planet Earth Diversified, Charlottesville City Market, Scottsville Farmers’ Market & Chamber of Commerce, Albemarle County, Virginia Foundation for Agriculture Innovation and Rural Sustainability & Farm Bureau VA, Gryfnsroost Photography and Design, Growing Food & Community, Flavor Magazine, New Moon Naturals, and Melli Productions

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

In a large, dry frying pan, gently heat pine nuts, turning frequently, until browned on all sides. Do not let them burn. Set them aside. Boil some salted water in two large saucepans. Blanch the broccoli until barely cooked, not more than 2 minutes. Drain and set aside. Meanwhile, drop the pasta into the other pan. Sauté garlic and chili flakes in the pan used to toast pine nuts. The more you heat the chili in oil, the hotter the dish will become, so if you prefer a milder flavor, add the chili toward the end of cooking. Put in the broccoli and fry until it is heated through. Take the pan off the heat and keep it warm. Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water, then return the pasta to the hot pan. Toss it well with the vegetables and olive oil. Season to taste.

purple-sprouting broccoli from spring meadow farm, md

Put garlic in a bowl with frying oil.

directory Most of this information has been provided by the Piedmont Environmental Council’s Buy Fresh, Buy Local campaign. Learn more at www.pecva.org.

Farmers Markets CHARLOTTESVILLE Charlottesville City Market Water Street parking lot (434) 970-3371 April–October Saturdays, 7 a.m.–12 p.m. Forest Lakes Farmers Market South Recreational Facility (434) 977-2033 April–October Tuesdays, 4 p.m.–7 p.m. CLARKE Clarke County Winter Market Berryville municipal parking lot (540) 955-5508 March 21 & April 18 9 a.m.–12 p.m. CULPEPER Culpeper Downtown Farmers Market East Davis Street & Commerce Street (540) 825-4416 May–October Thursdays, 4 p.m.–7 p.m. FAUQUIER Warrenton Wednesday Farmers Market Warrenton Village Shopping Center (540) 347-6267 April–October Wednesdays, 7 a.m.–1 p.m. Warrenton Saturday Farmers Market 5th & Lee Streets (540) 347-6267 April–November Saturdays, 7 a.m.–12 p.m.

LOUDOUN

ORANGE

Ashburn Farmers Market Ryan Park Shopping Center Kaiser Permanente parking lot (703) 771-5427 May–October Saturdays, 8 a.m.–12 p.m.

Orange County Farmers Market Orange Train Station (540) 672-2540 Year-round Saturdays, 9 a.m.–12:30 p.m.

Cascades Farmers Market The Senior Center at Cascades, Sterling (703) 771-5427 May–October Sundays, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Leesburg Farmers Market Virginia Village Shopping Center (703) 771-5427 May–October Saturdays, 8 a.m.–12 p.m. Lovettsville Farmers Market 16 S Berlin Pike (Route 287) (703) 771-5427 May–October Tuesdays, 3:30 p.m.–7 p.m. Middleburg Farmers Market Behind the Middleburg Community Center (703) 771-5427 May–October Saturdays, 8 a.m.–12 p.m.

CSAs & Buyers Clubs ALBEMARLE & CHARLOTTESVILLE Best of What’s Around 7129 Scottsville Road Scottsville • (434) 286-7255 www.bestofwhatsaround.org © Horse & Buggy Produce Charlottesville • (434) 284-1084 www.horseandbuggyproduce .com see ad on page 17

Innisfree Community Gardens 5505 Walnut Level Road Crozet • (434) 823-5646 Majesty Farm 3539 Red Hill School Road North Garden • (434) 760-5514 www.majestyfarm.com

New Branch Farm 1070 Bishop Hill Road Charlottesville • (434) 977-0155 www.newbranchfarm.com Roundabout Farm 4590 Deer Bonn Road Keswick • (434) 296-7414 www.roundaboutfarm.net CLARKE Holly Brook Farm 11 Lindey Lane Berryville • (540) 664-7524 FAUQUIER Bull Run Mountain Farm 4360 Highpoint Lane The Plains www.bullrunfarm.com Rock Run Creek Farm 3618 Rock Run Road Goldvein • (540) 286-2959 Virginia Green Grocer 9317 Green Meadows Road Warrenton • (540) 347-4740 www.virginiagreengrocer.com

Purcellville Farmers Market Across from the Purcellville Train Station (703) 771-5427 May–October Thursdays, 4 p.m.–7 p.m. Smart Markets Purcellville Town Hall parking lot (703) 591-2988 Year-round Saturdays, 10 a.m.–1 p.m.

www.flavormags.com

directory CSAs & Buyers Clubs continued LOUDOUN Great Country Farms 18780 Foggy Bottom Road Bluemont • (540) 554-2073 www.greatcountryfarms.com Mountain View Farm 11661 Harpers Ferry Road Purcellville • (540) 668-7640 www.blueridgecenter.org Moutoux Orchard 15290 Purcellville Road Purcellville www.moutouxorchard.com Potomac Vegetable Farms 15227 Berlin Turnpike Purcellville • (703) 759-3844 www.potomacvegetablefarms .com Stoneybrook Farm 37091 Charles Town Pike Hillsboro • (703) 999-6234 www.stoneybrookfarm.org Tree & Leaf Waterford • (540) 882-9656 www.treeandleafcsa.com

LOUISA Ploughshare Community Farm 1215 Horseshoe Farm Road Louisa • (540) 967-9511 www.ploughsharecsa.com Quail Spring Farm 2368 Vawter Corner Road Louisa • (540) 967-5196 NELSON Appalachia Star Farm 163 Shaeffer’s Hollow Lane Roseland • (434) 277-9304 www.appalachiastar.com RAPPAHANNOCK © Local Flavor Farm Buyers Club 12 Wilson Street Amissville • (540) 937-7977 www.farmbuyersclub.com see ad on page 45 © Mount Vernon Farm 206 Mount Vernon Lane Sperryville • (540) 987-9559 www.mountvernonfarm.net see ad on page 14

Rucker Farm 13357 Crest Hill Road Flint Hill • (540) 675-9996

Waterpenny Farm 53 Waterpenny Lane Sperryville • (540) 987-8567 www.waterpennyfarm.com

Meat, Poultry & Dairy ALBEMARLE Bessette Family Farm 850 Hog Creek Lane Esmont • (434) 831-2084 Currituck Farm 4826 Advance Mills Road Earlysville • (434) 978-1150 Gryffon’s Aerie 4803 Mount Air Farm Crozet • (434) 531-0994 www.gryffonsaerie.com Iona Farm 7359 Jefferson Mill Road Scottsville • (434) 286-4761 Majesty Farm 3539 Red Hill School Road North Garden • (434) 760-5514 www.majestyfarm.com Quarter’s Farm 5112 Dick Woods Road Charlottesville • (434) 293-6982 Reynolds Grassland Natural 4721 Green Creek Road Schuyler • (434) 831-2688 Sweet Seasons Farm 1832 Craig’s Store Road Batesville • (540) 456-7145 Tall Cotton Farm 1913 Craig’s Store Road Afton • (540) 456-8489 Whistlin’ Hollow Farm 8979 Dick Woods Road Afton • (540) 456-8212 CULPEPER Cibola Farms 10075 Stone Bridge Road Culpeper • (540) 727-8590 www.cibolafarms.com Croftburn Farm Meats 18157 Croftburn Farm Road Culpeper • (540) 825-9044 www.croftburnfarm.com

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

Muddy Run Farm 15744 White Tail Lane Culpeper • (540) 937-3504 Mulford Farm 22367 Maddens Tavern Road Stevensburg • (540) 423-9607 Old Gjerpen Farm 10042 Cedar Spring Lane Culpeper • (540) 829-5683 www.oldgjerpenfarm.com Pannill’s Gate Farm 25325 Old Office Road Culpeper • (540) 423-1168 www.pannillsgate.com Rohan Farm 10095 Rohan Road Rixeyville • (540) 937-4999 www.rohanborzoi.com Simply Sage 17194 Germanna Highway Culpeper • (540) 829-0905 Summer Creek Farm 10152 Cedar Spring Lane Culpeper • (540) 727-8207 FAUQUIER Ayrshire Farm 21846 Trappe Road Upperville • (540) 592-9504 www.ayrshirefarm.com Blue Ridge Beef 1716 Blue Ridge Farm Road Upperville • (540) 592-3469 Cows-N-Corn 5225 Catlett Road Midland • (540) 439-4806 www.cows-n-corn.com Crestone Farms 7522 Bear Wallow Road Warrenton • (540) 347-4237 Flatrock Farm 10109 Brown Moore Lane Marshall • (540) 364-6491 Heron’s Court Farm 7310 John S. Mosby Highway Middleburg • (540) 687-5424 Hollin Farms 1408 Snowden Road Delaplane • (540) 592-3701 www.hollinfarms.com

directory Midtrees Farm 8487–8509 Botha Road Warrenton • (540) 439-4812 Mt. Airy Farm 7303 Dudie Road Marshall • (540) 349-4496 Oak Spring Farm 8370 Oak Spring Road Upperville • (540) 592-3559 www.oakspringdairy.com Over the Grass Farm 3370 Whitewood Road The Plains • (540) 253-5228 Piney Meadow Farm 3082 Midland Road Midland • (540) 788-1476 Sumerduck Emu Ranch 13228 Golden Drive Sumerduck • (540) 439-0682 Vanderwoude Hill Farm 10768 Bristersburg Road Catlett • (540) 788-9672 Virginia Green Grocer CSA 9317 Green Meadows Road Warrenton • (540) 722-5086 www.virginiagreengrocer.com Western View Farm 2028 Laws Ford Road Catlett • (540) 788-9663

Gum Springs Farm 21980 Quaker Lane Middleburg • (540) 592-9561

Onyx Hill Farm Purcellville • (540) 338-1729 www.onyxhillfarm.com

Black Sheep Farm 14605 Chapel Lane Leesburg • (703) 777-7640

Milcreek Farm 37964 Long Lane Lovettsville • (540) 822-4181 www.milcrk.com

Sheepy Hollow Farm 16358 Hamilton Station Road Waterford • (540) 882-3860

Catoctin Heritage Farm 14259 Rehobeth Church Road Lovettsville • (540) 882-4437

Mill Road Farm 19440 Dunlop Mill Road Leesburg • (703) 777-1356

Checkmate Farm 18923 Checkmate Lane Bluemont • (540) 554-2858 www.checkmatefarm.com

Mountain View Farm 11661 Harpers Ferry Road Purcellville • (540) 668-7640 www.blueridgecenter.org

Chicama Run 14809 Purcellville Road Purcellville • (540) 668-9828

New Ashbury Farm 41469 Spring Valley Lane Leesburg • (703) 542-6226

Cornucopia Farm 37823 Snickersville Pike Philmont • (540) 338-7734 www.cornucopiafarmva.com

Oakland Green Farm 19192 Oakland Green Road Leesburg • (540) 338-7628 www.oaklandgreen.com

LOUDOUN Blue Ridge Dairy Leesburg www.brdairy.com

Silcott Springs Farm 19027 Silcott Springs Road Purcellville • (540) 338-1881 Willow Hawk Farm 11985 Rolling Hills Lane Lovettsville • (540) 882-9143 www.willowhawkfarm.com Woodtrail Graziers 19643 Woodtrail Road Round Hill • (540) 554-8665

Creek Crossing Farm 37768 Chappelle Hill Road Lincoln • (540) 338-7550 www.creekcrossingfarm.com Day Spring Farm 21338 Steptoe Hill Road Middleburg • (540) 687-6036 Fields of Athenry Farm 38082 Snickersville Turnpike Purcellville • (540) 687-3936 www.fieldsofathenryfarm.com

www.flavormags.com

directory Meat, Poultry & Dairy continued MADISON Backfield Farm Beef 6251 S F.T. Valley Road Etlan • (540) 923-4036 Excalibur Farms 624 Graves Mill Road Madison • (540) 948-4223 www.excaliburfarms.biz Kite’s Country Ham 3957 Wolftown-Hood Road Wolftown • (540) 948-4742 www.kitesham.com Springhaven Farm 4215 Oak Park Road Madison • (540) 948-6698 www.springhavenfarm.net

Wolf Creek Farm 4345 Wolftown-Hood Road Wolftown • (540) 948-5574 www.wolfcreek-farm.com ORANGE Everona Dairy Cheeses 23246 Clark’s Mountain Road Rapidan • (540) 854-4159 www.everonadairy.com Higginbotham Beef & Bottle Shop 132-A East Main Street Orange • (540) 672-9395 www.higginbothambeef.com Marshall Farms Natural Cheese 24109 Constitution Highway Unionville • (540) 854-6800 www.marshallscheese.com Papa Weaver’s Pork 346 Caves Ford Lane Orange • (540) 672-1552 www.papaweaver.com

Retreat Farm & Store 28276 Rapidan Road Rapidan • (540) 672-5871 Skyline Premium Meats 25541 London Lane Unionville • (540) 854-6155 www.skylinepremiummeats.com Valentine’s Country Meats 1326 Locust Grove Church Road Orange • (540) 672-1296 RAPPAHANNOCK © Belle Meade 353 F.T. Valley Road Sperryville • (540) 987-9748 www.bellemeade.net see ad on page 10

Harmany Highlands 1214 North Poes Road Flint Hill • (703) 395-7613 Meadowgreen Farm 210 Pophams Ford Road Sperryville • (540) 987-8445 © Mount Vernon Farm 206 Mount Vernon Lane Sperryville • (540) 987-9559 www.mountvernonfarm.net see ad on page 14

Muskrat Haven Farm 20 Cedar Break Lane Amissville • (540) 937-5892 New Hope Natural Beef 88 Scrabble Road Castleton • (540) 987-9507 Touchstone Farm 140 Touchstone Lane Amissville • (540) 937-6124 www.touchstonefarm.org W. R. Welch & Sons 444 Zachary Taylor Highway Flint Hill • (540) 636-9965 Williams Orchard 3 Williams Farm Lane Flint Hill • (540) 675-3765

Honey Makers & Bee Services Charlottesville Howard’s Blue Ribbon Honey 107 Cavalier Drive Charlottesville • (434) 971-6812 CULPEPER Oak Shade Farm 14455 Waterford Run Lane Rixeyville • (540) 937-5062 Retreat Farm Village Depot 28276 Rapidan Road Rapidan • (540) 672-5871 Simply Sage 17194 Germanna Highway Culpeper • (540) 829-0905 FAUQUIER Fern Hill Apiary 5382 Free State Road Marshall • (540) 364-1680 Mike Wilson 6425 Carters Run Road Marshall • (540) 341-0217 Over the Grass Farm 3370 Whitewood Road The Plains • (540) 253-5228 www.overthegrassfarm.com Stoneleigh Farms 5721 Greenview Lane Warrenton • (540) 341-7790 www.stoneleighfarms.com Vanderwoude Hill Farm 10768 Bristersburg Road Catlett • (540) 788-9672 LOUDOUN Blackwood Honey From 35304 Poorhouse Lane Round Hill • (540) 338-2486 www.poorhousefarm.com MADISON Haywood Honey 1126 W. Hoover Road Madison • (540) 923-5075 RAPPAHANNOCK © Windsong Apiaries 120 Mill Run Lane Castleton • (540) 937-2175 see ad on page 34

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

directory Summer Camps These camps introduce children to aspects of farming, agriculture, or environmental conservation. 4-H Camps at Holiday Lake www.holidaylake4h.com June 8–12 Ages 9–13 Albemarle • (434) 872-4580 Nelson • (434) 263-4035 July 6–10 Ages 9–13 Fluvanna • (434) 591-1950 Greene • (434) 985-5236 4-H Camps in Northern Virginia www.ext.vt.edu June 14–18 Ages 9–13 Orange • (540) 672-1361 Madison • (540) 948-6881 June 21–25 Ages 9–13 Loudoun • (703) 777-0373 Fauquier • (540) 341-7950

July 12–16 Ages 9–13 Clark • (540) 955-5164 Warren • (540) 635-4549 August 2–6 Ages 9–13 Culpeper • (540) 727-3435 Shenandoah • (540) 459-6140 Rappahannock • (540) 675-3619 A. R. C. Natural History Day Camp Co-sponsored by the Piedmont Environmental Council www.pecva.org Albemarle • (434) 263-4630 June 8–12 Rising 2nd & 3rd graders June 15–19 Rising 4th & 5th graders © Belle Meade www.bellemeade.net Sperryville • (540) 987-9748 Five separate 1-week camps held between June 15 & August 21 Ages 6–13 see ad on page 10

Camp River Ridge Co-sponsored by the Piedmont Environmental Council www.riverridgefoundation.org Clark • (540) 336-1908 July 6–10 Rising 2nd & 3rd graders July 20–24 Rising 4th & 5th graders July 27–31 Rising 6th–8th graders August 3–7 Rising 9th–12th graders Fauquier Natural History Day Camp Co-sponsored by the Piedmont Environmental Council Fauquier • (540) 347-3635 June 22–July 3

Loudoun County Nature Camp Co-sponsored by the Piedmont Environmental Council Loudoun • (540) 338-6528 June 22–26 & July 6–10 Rising 3rd–7th graders Montpelier Natural History Day Camp Co-sponsored by the Piedmont Environmental Council www.pecva.org Orange • (540) 672-2728 x 401 June 15–19 Rising 3rd & 4th graders June 22–26 Rising 5th & 6th graders Rappahannock Nature Camp Co-sponsored by the Piedmont Environmental Council www.pecva.org Rappahanock • (540) 675-1088 June 22–July 3 Ages 8–12

Visit the vineyards, history and culture of America’s first wine region

www.piedmontwineexperience.com info@piedmontwineexperience.com www.flavormags.com

PHOTOS BY FRANK & ESTHER SCHMIDT

Master Class in red Wine Blending May 2 & May 9

Join us for the ultimate winery experience. seminar session with winemaker andy reagan gives insight into the art and science of blending red Bordeaux varietals into your own Meritage. Graduated cylinders, calculators, pens and paper provided – your palate and imagination complete the toolkit. all wines drawn from barrel. reservations are required and space is limited. $50 per person includes gourmet buffet.

to reserve, call (800 ) 272-3042

An enjoyable dining experience in a beautiful, intimate setting. Located in a historic country store, the grille serves up light lunches on the way to the trails and elegant dinners in a casual, comfortable atmosphere. Lunch & Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; Brunch on Sunday

540.987.8790 www.thorntonrivergrille.com

Sperryville Corner Store 150-year-old country store with groceries, cold drinks, artisanal cheeses, fresh seafood, hand-cut meats and local produce. Exceptional selection of hand-picked beer and local wine. Open daily.

540.987.8185 PHOTO BY CARL ZITZMANN

located between Monticello and ash lawn on thomas Jefferson’s original 1774 vineyard sites. Open 9am to 5pm daily for tours and tastings. WWW.JeffersOnvineyards.COM 46

• Early Spring 2009

3710 Sperryville Pike, Sperryville, Virginia At the intersection of Routes 522 and 211

virginia Features

Early Spring 2009 50 Faithful in the Little Things Linden Vineyard’s Jim Law still tends the same vines that he planted 25 years ago. Grace Reynolds

Departments

49 winemaker’s notes Andy Reagan A Virginia native makes award-wining wines on the site Thomas Jefferson chose for Virginia’s first vineyard more than 200 years ago.

56 imbibe Cider Pressed from a Small-Farm Dream Foggy Ridge’s success can be attributed to Diane Flynt’s artisanal approach, her passion for local food, and, of course, terrific hard cider. Jennifer Conrad Seidel

64 pairings Springtime Celebrations in the Piedmont Choosing wine for Easter and Passover. Willis Logan & Sharon Bradshaw

Columns

59 blind tasting Chardonnay How well does this ubiquitous grape perform in Virginia? Evan Williams

60 in the cellar Defining Terroir What exactly is terroir? Jason Burrus

48 62

flights vineyard directory

winemaker jim law S photo by molly mcdonald peterson

Flights

Jennifer Conrad Seidel

Green Drinks These people are your friends. You just haven’t met them yet. But you will when you go to the next Green Drinks gathering, where environmentally conscious folks come together for a casual happy hour (or a more organized discussion, depending on the group). For example, folks in Charlottesville meet at a pub or restaurant bar on the second Thursday of the month for happy hour, whereas the people in Warrenton have different topics and locations each month. (The topic for their March 18 meeting at the Black Horse Inn on Meetze Road was heirloom seeds and green gardening.) The Green Drinks idea was conceived in London 20 years ago, and almost 400 chapters now span the globe. According to the Green Drinks website, there are 13 groups in Virginia, including Charlottesville, Fairfax, Fredericksburg, Loudoun, northern Shenandoah Valley, Richmond, and Warrenton. Visit greendrinks.org to find links to these groups or to find out how to start your own.

Keswick Takes the Virginia Governor’s Cup The 2009 Virginia Governor’s Cup was awarded to Keswick Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon at the Virginia Wine Expo in February. More than half of the 22 gold medals awarded at the event went to vineyards in the Piedmont. (A full list of the winners can be found at www.vawine.org.) Earlier in February, Keswick was awarded a double gold (unanimous gold by the judges) for its 2007 Viognier at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, where 60 judges evaluated over 4,700 American wines. Other Piedmont vineyards brought home medals, too. Silver medals went to Pollak Vineyards 2007 Viognier; Rappahannock Cellars 2006 Seyval Blanc; Sugarleaf 2007 Petit Manseng, 2007 Cabernet Franc, and 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon; and White Hall 2007 Viognier. Veramar 2007 Cabernet Franc received a bronze.

• Early Spring 2009

Barboursville Chef Melissa Close, James Beard Award Semifinalist The chef at Barboursville Vineyards’ Palladio Restaurant, Melissa Close, has been nominated for an award for best chef in the mid-Atlantic by the James Beard Foundation (www .jamesbeard.org). Time magazine has likened the Beard Foundation awards to the Oscars. The finalists will be announced on March 23, and the awards will be given on May 3. If you haven’t yet visited Palladio, you may want to attend one of the special dinners Close hosts each year, such as the morel-themed dinner in May.

Sugarleaf Chocolates On Valentine’s Day, Sugarleaf Vineyards announced a line of fine chocolates made with its wine. Three truffles are currently available: a Chardonnay and white-chocolate filling encased in milk chocolate; Summer, which has a milk chocolate and Cabernet Sauvignon center and a light dark-chocolate coating; and Winter, a blend of bittersweet chocolate and Cabernet Franc wrapped in more bittersweet chocolate. They are available year-round in a box of 6 (2 of each type) for $12 at Sugarleaf’s tasting room in North Garden.

De’Danann Glasswork’s Slumped Wine Bottles When people stopped by the Flavor and Terroir display at the Virginia Wine Expo in Richmond in February, they were introduced to Patricia Brennan’s work. Brennan collects bottles from wineries and her neighbors and flattens them in a kiln using a technique known as slumping. The bottles—thus rescued from landfills or from energy-intensive recycling processes— are transformed into cheeseboards and bread boards that can be engraved. De’Danann Glasswork in Sperryville also creates suncatchers, windows, and family crests and offers stained-glass classes. To learn more, visit dedanann.net or call (540) 987-8615.

Andy Reagan

winemaker’s notes A Virginia native is making award-winning wine at the oldest vineyard site in the commonwealth.

Since Virginia native Andy Reagan came to Jefferson Vineyards in 2005, the wines he has created have garnered numerous gold and double-gold medals from many prestigious competitions including the San Diego International Wine Competition, the International Eastern Wine Competition, and the Lodi International Wine Competition. In addition to managing the vineyard and crafting about 7,000 cases of wine each year, Reagan teaches master classes in blending at the vineyard and a winery design class at Piedmont Virginia Community College. s Jefferson Vineyards sits on the site chosen by Thomas Jefferson for his vineyard more than 200 years ago. On privately owned land adjacent to Monticello, the 25-acre vineyard, replanted in 1981, now comprises 10 varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Manseng, Petit Verdot, Pinot Gris, Tannat, and Viognier.

angel morton

spent my summers in high school working in the vineyard at Benmarl Vineyards in New York for my sister Anne. In 1997 I began working for her full-time as a cellar hand. Benmarl was a small winery, and Anne and I did most of the work—from the winemaking to working the tasting room and festivals. It was a great opportunity to learn how the entire business worked, and the diverse nature of the job kept me intrigued. I stayed there for the next few years but always wanted to return to my native Virginia and see how I could expand on what Anne had taught me. Since coming back to Virginia, I have worked at the Williamsburg Winery, Chrysalis Vineyards in Middleburg, and now Jefferson Vineyards in Charlottesville, with 2 short stints at wineries in Florida and North Carolina. I have made most every type and style of wine, using a hundred different varieties. I’ve studied under prominent enologists, and I have taken advantage of the size and regional differences of the wineries I’ve worked at to conduct trials on every aspect that affects winemaking. My philosophy has always been the same: I want to make the most balanced wine possible, whether in a great vintage or a lesser vintage, whether I’m creating our less expensive wine or our most heralded Reserve. Balance is the key to producing wellrespected, clean wine with seldom-matched complexity. The challenges Virginia winemakers face include humidity, hurricanes, late and early frosts, too much rain in the fall, and not enough rain in the summer. When you weigh the pros and cons of winegrowing in Virginia, you begin to understand why it has taken so long to get to where the industry is today. Without those pioneers—dating all the way back to the 1600s, even—we would not be where we are now. I prefer to look at Virginia’s “challenges” as just tasks that need to be accomplished. I have the benefit of running a vineyard that has the proper varieties for our microclimate. Southern Albemarle County has a warmer climate than other parts of the Piedmont. Yet because we are situated on, and at the base of, the mountains, we benefit from cool nights, which help produce more balanced fruit that ripens extremely well. I keep the vineyard healthy by adding proper nutrients and try to use as many organic and sustainable practices as possible. The existing vineyard was first planted in 1981 with Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Gris. In 1998 it was expanded to include Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Tannat, and more Merlot. We now have a total of 18.5 acres planted and will be planting 6 more this spring—increasing our Petit Verdot,

Viognier, and Cabernet Sauvignon production. The advances in viticulture and enology made by Dr. Tony Wolf and Dr. Bruce Zoecklein at Virginia Tech have given Virginia an advantage. Given the variances between all of the regions of the state—from the different microclimates and soil types to the varied trellising—the wine industry in Virginia is coming into its own. Consumers are becoming more aware of the great wine produced here. The wine industry is another reason to come to a state already rich in history and culture. We also benefit from our winery’s location. Jefferson receives quite a lot of attention because it is close to Monticello and downtown Charlottesville. We use our retail shop to get our message out: we are proud of our Virginia roots, we are excited by the wine we produce and the ability to market it to a global audience, and we see that it has the strength and quality to be tasted amongst the world’s finest wines.

Make wine with more passion and less science. If I were advising new winemakers in the Piedmont, I would tell them to not grow content with what they already know and do. Continue learning from different vintages. Use new and different techniques. Don’t use [wine juice] concentrate from California. Make your wine better. Work in the vineyard or with your vineyard manager. Make wine with more passion and less science. Virginia wine is basically at a crossroads. Many outstanding wines are being produced here and at vineyards all over the state, garnering awards from very prestigious international competitions. Up to this point, we have relied heavily on agri-tourism to sell our wine, and there is nothing wrong with that. However, we now have the chance to really become players on the national scale, if not the global scale. We have to get everyone on board to advance the Virginia wine industry as a whole—to weed out those who produce lesser wine and to promote those who are willing to take the extra steps to make fine wine and work together. If we don’t do this, then we will continue to hear, “They make wine in Virginia?” But if we can do this, Virginia will continue to gain recognition from prominent writers, wine professionals, and—even more importantly—consumers. www.flavormags.com

flavor magazine â&#x20AC;˘ april/may 2009

Faithful in the Little Things

Grace Reynolds

At Linden, the only thing that has expanded in the last quarter century is the average customer’s palate.

cork by shannon hepler, winemaker jim law by molly mcdonald peterson, linden barn by chris stamboulis

s interest in good food and wine continues to soar, many local vineyards race to establish themselves as a “destination”—a place that attracts weekending wine lovers as well as those with little or no wine knowledge. At a number of Virginia wineries, visitors can not only drink and buy wine, but also eat, sleep, ride a horse, get married, or host a family reunion. The trend toward bigger and better entertainment facilities, more vines, more wine, and more customers has brought fame and awards to several local wineries. However, there is one local vineyard that, despite being well regarded by the public and the industry, has no plans for expansion—Linden Vineyards.

of Linden’s Case Club, the group of customers who have bought a case or more of Linden wines within the last year. Club members are also invited to the annual barrel and pre-release tasting in the spring. Those not in the Case Club can enjoy complimentary tastings in the tasting room and are welcome to enjoy the deck and grounds during the week. Linden Vineyards has always been a quiet, peaceful place to sit and enjoy, and Law wants it to remain so. Groups cannot exceed 6 people, and both the winery and the grounds close at 5 p.m., which is not surprising, given that Law lives on the property.

Small Is Beautiful

“Sustainability comes down to how you look

When Jim Law settled on his original mountaintop property in 1983 and planted his 22-acre Hardscrabble Vineyard, Virginia winemaking was generally a mom-and-pop enterprise in which one person or one family wears many hats—from planting to blending to bottling to sales, and everything in between. These days, vineyards often have specialists, consultants, and marketing teams whose job it is to get everyone talking about Virginia wine. Law, on the other hand, has made a conscious effort not to go in that direction. He has added 2 smaller vineyards of 4 and 5 acres, but he is still bottling the same amount of wine, 5,000 cases, that he bottled 15 years ago, and he’s never hired a winemaker. “That’s what I live for,” he says. “Not many people can say that they’ve been working in the fields since dawn. That’s bliss to me.” It must be bliss for his staff as well, as many of his full-time staffers have been working there for close to 20 years. His shortterm employees include those in his apprenticeship program—a 2-year, from-the-ground-up program that gives those with an interest in winemaking the experience they need to go on to manage other vineyard properties or open their own. Overlooking Law’s vineyards and a gorgeous valley, Linden’s tasting room and deck are fantastic places to sit and enjoy Linden wine. However, the vineyard’s increased success has created some challenges—most notably, a deck packed on weekends with tourists. Law was led to make a tough decision: In order to enjoy the deck on weekends, visitors must be members

at life. I think anyone who works their own land and plans to do it in the future is sustainable by definition.” —Jim Law

Sustainable by Definition Being successful in an agriculturally based business in Virginia means working with your neighbors and colleagues. Linden Vineyards supports small farmers in the region and offers Case Club members wine pairings with local sausage and cheeses. Law’s success also depends on working with the land, the soil, and the weather and his commitment to sustainable methods. Law and his crew use solar energy, photovoltaic hot water, compost, and recycled packaging and light-weight bottles. “Sustainability,” in Law’s words, “comes down to how you look at life. I think anyone who works their own land and plans to do it in the future is sustainable by definition.” It also means paying good wages to his dedicated staff, which helps explain their longevity.

www.flavormags.com

“Not many people can say that they’ve been working in the fields since dawn. That’s bliss to me.” —Jim Law

Law’s background is in fruit farming. When he first planted grape vines, he planted blueberries and heirloom apples as well, the idea being that this diversification would allow him to afford to grow grapes and make wine. Those blueberry bushes and apple trees are long gone, and he’s been farming the same 3 vineyards for so long that he knows them like the back of his hand. Law says the Virginia wine industry is now “unrecognizable from 1981, when I set foot in it.” New wineries are popping up all the time, and public interest in wine has reached such a level that visitors are no longer stopping in on their way to somewhere else—they are planning their weekends around wine tasting. He finds that the average wine drinker knows much more about wine than in the past and is especially impressed with the 20-something visitors to the winery, who have surprising wine knowledge and a genuine interest in learning more. “The difference between now and 25 years ago has been beyond my wildest expectations,” he says. Customers “value taste and so they’re willing to pay for taste. This gives me the ability to push the envelope in what I’m doing—knowing the public is out there.” At Linden, the site is more important than the grape variety. All of the grapes are grown in Law’s vineyards—Hardscrabble, Avenius, and Boisseau—and the best wines are named for the vineyard site that produced them. The 2006 Chardonnays will be released in April 2009, after fermenting 10 months in barrels and resting 2 years in the bottle. Chardonnay grapes are grown in all of Linden’s vineyards, each with its own personality and its own label. The reds that best show off the character of Linden’s Hardscrabble or Avenius vineyards are named for them and are produced in most years, although Law will decide against 52

• Early Spring 2009

photos by molly mcdonald peterson

What’s New

New releases, April 2009 2008, all whites Vidal-Riesling Seyval Rosé Avenius Sauvignon Blanc 2006, all reds Hardscrabble Boisseau Avenius Petit Verdot

bottling these if they do not meet his standards of quality. He makes his initial blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot based on his gut feeling and from what he knows are the best barrels. Each afternoon at 4:00 there is a blending session, during which Law and his crew will fine-tune the blends with wines from other, more questionable barrels. Reds released this year include the 2006 Hardscrabble, Boisseau, Avenius, and Petit Verdot. Like the Bordeaux wines Law holds as his benchmark, Linden Vineyards’ wines are designed to age well and to reflect the variables in each year’s harvest. Law’s approach to winemaking is not the only thing reflective of Europe; he is also committed to the “small is beautiful” mentality. More vines, more space, and more events do not interest Law. He takes great delight in receiving national and international recognition within the industry, which is granted on a regular basis. But what is even more pleasurable to him is what you will find him doing on a daily basis: tending to the vines he planted decades ago and striving to always represent the character of his vineyards in the glass of the Virginia wine drinker. A Piedmont native, Grace Reynolds has worked in many aspects of the local and international wine industry, from importer and label designer to purchaser and consultant for restaurants. She also teaches English at several Virginia colleges and universities.

invites you to

Spring Wine Tastings The Wine Kitchen, Leesburg

Linden Vineyards 3708 Harrel’s Corner Road, Linden (540) 364-1997 www.lindenvineyards.com Winery & Grounds Hours April–November 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday December–March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., weekends only Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Holiday, New Year’s Day, and Easter Sunday. Tours & Tastings An educational tour of the vineyard and cellar begins at 11:30 a.m. every Saturday and Sunday.

5:30–7:30

March 24 • Sunset Hills Vineyard April 8 • Bluemont Vineyard $

Iron Bridge, Warrenton 5:30–7:30

March 19 • DelFosse Vineyards $

Tastings of Charlottesville 6:00–8:00

March 24 • Berne Jung (Chester Gap Cellars), Gabrielle Rausse (Gabrielle Rausse Winery) & Jim Law (Linden Vineyards) $20 for tasting and hors d’oeuvres

www.flavormags.com

â&#x20AC;˘ Early Spring 2009

www.flavormags.com

imbibe

Cider Pressed from a Small-Farm Dream Jennifer Conrad Seidel

Foggy Ridge’s Diane Flynt left a corporate career to start a community-friendly cidery.

“I always knew that I wanted to have a career that allowed me to be in a more rural environment, to live a different kind of life,” she says. “I enjoyed my corporate work and learned a great deal that has benefited me as a cidermaker and as a business owner.” With Flynt’s corporate background, you might expect Foggy Ridge Cider to be a large-scale cidermaking enterprise with a national marketing campaign. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. Flynt is a dedicated slow food advocate and a champion of artisanal food in Southwest Virginia. “People ask what artisan means, and I just lift up my hands. My hands look awful.”

Serious About Cider “About 15 years ago, when my husband and I were dating, I said, ‘I’ll marry you if we can buy a farm.’ He said yes, but he really didn’t mean it!” she laughs. He may not have meant it, but she did. After a long time of looking for property, they found a 200-acre farm off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Dugspur, about 60 miles southwest of Roanoke. “We knew that we wanted to create an agriculture-based business. But I’ve always had a passion for growing things as opposed to milking things. I’ve always planted native trees and shrubs, so it seemed natural to try apples.” The Flynts planted more than 30 apple varieties in the first test orchard and used that experience to see which varieties did best in that climate. “Terroir is a big part of it. We need to know not only can it grow but will it produce the kind of fruit that makes really good hard cider. The same apple that’s growing in Charlottesville is not going to taste the same if I grow it here, up at 3,000 feet.” Knowing that she couldn’t make a living just selling apples, Flynt decided to study cidermaking. “I relished the intellec-

• Early Spring 2009

fabio camara

idermaking is Diane Flynt’s second career. For 25 years, she worked in the banking industry. But she missed the lifestyle she knew growing up in smalltown Georgia, where her grandfather farmed.

Apples from these Hewe’s Crab trees, started with graftings from Monticello, will be used in Foggys Ridge’s First Fruit cider.

tual exercise and marketing challenge of making and selling a fermented beverage,” she explains. She apprenticed with American cidermakers over several harvests and took a professional cidermaking course in England. “Just as we have great enologists at Virginia Tech, they have great pomologists over there.” She must be a good student, because Foggy Ridge has sold out every year since it opened.

“Just like a winemaker is in the vineyard, I’m tasting the apples and deciding when to pick.” —Diane Flynt

Orchard Offerings Serious Cider is the driest of the 3 ciders produced. “It’s made from our high-tannin apples, which give a lot of structure and depth. It is the one most like an English cider,” Flynt says, noting that it pairs well with food. “Our bestselling cider is called First Fruit,” she continues. “It’s off-dry, with just a bit of residual sugar. It has a nice balance of lively acidity and very nice apple aroma.” First Fruit is so-named because it is made with early season apples— including Hewe’s Crab apples—and because Hewe’s were planted by Thomas Jefferson for his cider. (First Fruit alludes to that heritage, like a “first lady.”) Flynt’s graftings even come from Monticello. This cider also uses Graniwinkle, Parmar, and Mother varieties.

Sweet Stayman, the third cider, is made with Staymans, Grimes Goldens, and Newtown Pippins. “We get all our Staymans from an 84-year-old grower in Bent Mountain. He does a fabulous job, so I don’t need to grow them.” Flynt also buys some Newtown Pippins from this grower to supplement her own harvest. “The Sweet Sayman is sweet but with a nice balance to it, like a dry Riesling,” she explains. “It’s great with spicy food like Thai food.” The most unique product in the Foggy Ridge line is Pippin Gold, a fortified dessert cider. “First, we ferment cider made from Newtown Pippins. When we get to the right sweetness level, we add brandy from Laird and Company, a distillery in North Garden,” Flynt says. “We age it for about 9 months before we bottle it.” According to Flynt, Pippin Gold has “the kick of a dessert wine without the ‘spirity’ taste.” This year, Foggy Ridge will make about 1,000 cases of cider. “Just like a winemaker is in the vineyard, I’m tasting the apples and deciding when to pick,” Flynt says of her work in the orchard, where she does all of the pruning on her 1,000 trees. Shunning all-at-once harvesting and cold storage— practices used by commercial apple growers—her apples are left on the tree until they reach what she calls “optimal ripeness.” Later in the season, the picked apples might be held at room temperature for a little while before being pressed, because this allows more of the starch to convert into sugar. Flynt likens cidermaking to making white wine—“the only difference is that we have to grind the fruit before we press it.” After the apples are crushed, ground, and pressed, the juice is pumped into stainless steel tanks, where it ferments. Flynt adds sulfites to kill off wild yeast and then adds a yeast that she has chosen specifically for cidermaking, but she does not add any sugar to increase the alcohol content.

ou /takeg n i r e cat ble availa

Soups, Salads, Sandwiches Fine Wine and Beer seasonal foods, often organic sourced locally & made fresh daily

434-296-SOUP

www.revolutionarysoup.com

108 2nd Street SW, Charlottesville, VA 22902 104 14th Street Charlottesville, VA 22903 www.flavormags.com

A Generous Spirit

“I value cooperation with other artisans and agriculturerelated businesses. We like to find people who are doing

The orchard surrounding Foggy Ridge’s cider house is home to 1,000 apple trees, with more than 30 apple varieties.

interesting things in our community and promote them.” Last year Foggy Ridge collaborated with Dogtown Pizza, which has a mobile brick oven used at festivals and events. “We did a tasting with them, and they made a pizza with apples, fennel sausage, local pork, caramelized onions, and blue cheese,” she recalls, dreamily. “One of the values I hope to get across in everything I do is a spirit of professional generosity,” Flynt emphasizes. And she walks the talk. Foggy Ridge is a member of the Blue Ridge Wine Trail, whose members collaborate on tasting tours. When Albemarle Ciderworks goes into production for the first time this spring, it will use the bottling line at Foggy Ridge. And Flynt has plans to host an event introducing cheese from Goat Lady Dairy, in Climax, North Carolina, to Southwest Virginia. She tends her land with the same generosity. Flynt and her husband live in the middle of the orchard, so they take great care to use natural and organic methods whenever possible. “Commercial growers often use late-season sprays to get fruit that is beautiful in appearance. We don’t care what our fruit looks like, so we do no late-season sprays at all,” Flynt says. “We use organic controls, mating disruption, and integrated pest management, and then if we have to spray, we will.”

estate grown hand crafted wines viognier • merlot • cabernet franc & other innovative blends

9 8

www.chestargapcellars.com open Friday, Saturday, Sunday 4615 Remount Rd (Rt. 522) Front Royal, VA 22630 540-636-8086

flavor magazine • april/may 2009

“It gives me great pleasure that my trees will outlive me and produce fruit long after I’m gone,” Flynt says. “I have every incentive to keep them healthy in a sustainable way.” Jennifer Conrad Seidel, the editor of Flavor magazine, always chooses hard cider over beer or wine.

Foggy Ridge Cider 1328 Pineview Road, Dugspur www.foggyridgecider.com (276) 398-2337 Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends from May to December

fabio camara

Flynt has marketing savvy from her corporate years, but where others thrive on competition, she revels in cooperation. “I am where I am because of the generosity of others who shared their knowledge. I am passionate about sharing what I’ve learned with the cider community and with our customers.” To that end, Foggy Ridge hosts grafting workshops and tastings with local chefs and food artisans, and Flynt teaches a pairing class at Murray’s, a famous cheese shop in New York.

Evan Williams

Chardonnay’s reputation as a go-to grape does not guarantee go-to wines. Oh, Chardonnay, you beautiful beast! If ever there was a more widely grown, but rarely successfully grown grape, I’ve yet to see it. The greatest examples are the stuff of legends and can be life-altering. At the other end of the spectrum, you’ll find jugs of wine in the grocery store labeled “Chablis” that should have, for all intents and purposes, been used to make rubbing alcohol. In between, you’ll find thousands of different takes on the grape, from real French Chablis (little oak, very bright and clean) to classic White Burgundy (more oak, in general, than Chablis, and generally accepted as the best expression of the grape in the world), from all-stainless New World versions (bright, crisp, showing off the fruit) to the infamous West Coast style (oak, with a side of oak, topped with oak). Because of this variety, versatility, and popularity, Chardonnay is often a fledgling winery’s staple, go-to grape; outside of places like France and Germany, where traditions and laws (or Mother Nature) prohibit such endeavors, it’s not often you find a new winery without a Chardonnay on its list. However, this versatility does not mean that success has been easy or frequent. More than with any other grape, oak is used— or, more accurately, misused—to cover up flaws in the fruit. This has brought about great controversy and division in the wine world and has brought a burden to bear on the varietal’s reputation. Huge, oaky California Chardonnays that tasted and smelled of little else than movie-theater buttered popcorn became all the rage in the 1980s and ’90s. Virginia followed suit and produced scores of similar money-making (but depthlacking) wines. Then in the 1990s, many consumers began to figure out that copious amounts of oak are no substitute for good fruit, and they began to revolt—fatefully turning to more fruit-centric varietals like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Grigio. This was a blessing and a curse for the wine world: a blessing in that it forced many winemakers to return to a more balanced style if they wanted to sell Chardonnay, and a curse in that many people now reflexively shun all Chardonnay. Today, we’re in the midst of the vintners’ corrective phase, where a return to better fruit and more balance is taking place at wineries all over the world—and as our blind tasting demonstrated, even the oak-fermented examples are now showing restraint that was rare just a decade ago. This tells us about more than simply a shift in consumer preference, though. As Virginia winegrowing progresses, evolves, and continues to improve, there’s less and less of a need to hide flaws in the wines by using oak, malolactic fermentation, and chaptalization.

Tasting Panel and Procedure For this tasting, Evan Williams and 7 other tasters— each one of them a wine-industry veteran or wine collector—tasted 24 bottles of Chardonnay submitted by vineyards in the Piedmont region. All bottles were blind, to avoid label prejudice.

Chardonnay drinkers, and thus the bottles they seek, are often broken into two major camps: the clean, crisp Chablis or allstainless style, and the oakier, heavier New World style. Our blind tasting consisted of 24 iterations of Virginia Chardonnay, so to make sense of it all, we separated these bottles into the aforementioned two major groups. A favorite was selected from each group, as was a favorite “bridge” between the two.

cheri bowling

Chardonnay

blind tasting

In general, we found the quality to be all over the map. There were some wineries that clearly have great fruit and know how to treat it; on the other hand, the paradigm of Chardonnay as an easy, go-to grape—regardless of quality—for new wineries was painfully illustrated. But one thing was certain: the opportunity for growing quality fruit, and complementing that with balance and restraint in the winery, clearly exists in Virginia. The departure from boring oak-bombs to a focus on complex, interesting wines is resulting in Chardonnay’s rebirth in our region. Chablis-Style Favorite: Corcoran 2007 Chardonnay ($18)

At first, this wine refused to open up, showing more of an orange-pith-like character with little depth. However, after about an hour, it began to blossom into a deep, balanced wine and won over the panel. Aromas of pear, faint vanilla, and white flowers circled around a cellar-like rustic quality. There was a slight oak presence on the palate, but it was quickly balanced by a pleasant, refreshing acidity. Muted citrus and floral notes round out this very drinkable offering. New World–Style Favorite: King Family 2007 Chardonnay ($20)

When just opened, there is a strong buttery oak nose that obscures some of the fruit, but like the Corcoran, it just takes time to open up. Underneath the toasty oak notes, there is a nice medium weight with pristine ripe golden apples and a touch of freshly wet rock. While it is unmistakably New World, there is an underlying classic quality that helps it stand out. “Bridge” Favorite: Sunset Hills 2007 Reserve Chardonnay ($24)

Rather than a clear new oak character, the Sunset Hills consisted more of a bready, crackery, yeasty aroma, all of which is followed by a pear-apple-lemon brightness. On the palate, balance and quality fruit is the name of the game, with more apricot and tropical fruit than most of the others. This is all sewn up by a light, pleasant acidity and an envelope of soft vanilla from the oak. Evan Williams, a Virginia native who has worked in various facets of the wine industry, is part-owner of the Wine Guild of Charlottesville.

www.flavormags.com

in the cellar

Defining Terroir An analysis of New and Old World perspectives on this French term.

merica is a nation of connoisseurs. From gourmet coffee to craft beer, we love the unique and special in what we consume. America is also fast becoming a nation of wine drinkers. Per capita wine consumption has increased 42 percent since 1993, according to the Beverage Information Group. Our connoisseurship is reflected in this fact as well, with consumers seeking out unique and special wines. But what distinguishes one wine from another? What defines a fine wine? Many of the world’s wine connoisseurs look to the French for the answer. Fine wine is unique among food products in that its raw materials are considered more influential to the final product than the processing. There is no doubt that the influences of fermentation and aging are important, but it is the character of the grapes that distinguish fine wine from commodity wine. No other crop industry places such attention, effort, and money into its raw materials as the wine industry. Put another way, no other crop demands as much attention, effort, and money as grapes do. Grape vines are fastidious. The species that makes most of the world’s wines, Vitis vinifera, has been transplanted from its native home in the Mediterranean and the Middle East to all over the world, with varying degrees of success. As such, the fruit it produces exhibits varying character. This character is made more discrete in the winemaking process. Place is well understood as a defining influence in the character of grapes and wine. What is it about place that makes it so significant? The French describe the influence of place as terroir. Literally, this translates as “soil.” More precisely, it is the cumulative influence of soil, topography, and climate on the grape vine and its fruit. This view is generally accepted around the world. However, terroir carries more significance than this definition suggests. The French regard terroir as a consistent and unique influence that has a direct impact on the character of its wine, regardless of specific weather, viticultural, or winemaking variations. This view is more controversial, as many perceive this definition overemphasizes the impact of terroir. It also implies that the influences are irreproducible, and thus so the wines made under it. Terroir is ostensibly responsible for the French appellation system, Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée

• Early Spring 2009

(AOC), a government certification that identifies and protects place-name designations for certain agricultural products. This system has been copied all over the world, including here in the U.S.A. It serves as a model for our Appellation of Origin and American Viticultural Area designations. The French AOC regulations are particularly stringent, defining how grapes are to be grown and how wine is to be made within certain AOC zones. The wines of France, notably those of Bordeaux and Burgundy, are imitated all over the world. Many believe these imitations are rather successful, even more so than the French originals. The most famous example of this was an event now referred to as the Judgment of Paris, a 1976 competition of some of the most highly regarded Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay wines from France and California. The judges were mostly French, and they evaluated the wines blind (meaning they did not know the identity of the wines they tasted). The result of the competition was that, overall, the California wines rated higher then their French counterparts. This shocked the wine industry, as French wines had been regarded as superior to those from California.

Terroir is the cumulative influence of soil, topography, and climate on the grape vine and its fruit. Examples such as this raise doubt as to whether any specific terroir is mandatory to produce a world-class wine. Many believe the natural elements that influence the wines of France can be manipulated by viticultural practices. For example, California’s climate is much drier than those of many winemaking areas of France. Consequently, vineyard irrigation is common there, whereas it is not in France. Furthermore, grapevines can be adapted to various soil types through the use of rootstock grafting. Here, the roots of a species of grape-

natalia burrus

Jason Burrus

vine indigenous to North America are grafted to the scion (the above-ground and fruit-producing) portion of a variety of Vitis vinifera. These rootstocks are chosen for their suitability in soils of varying characteristics. Rootstock grafting is practiced in most parts of the world, including France. While much of the character of wine is influenced by different elements of terroir, it is by no means a reflection of terroir alone. Winemaking practices, duplicated all over the world, are commonly mistaken for terroir. Volatile sulfur compounds, a product of yeast fermentation and oxygen, are often mistaken as grape-derived. Additionally, a spoilage yeast of the genus Brettanomyces, common in barrel-aged red wines, produces an aroma reminiscent of a barnyard and is often found in many red wines of Burgundy. Paradoxically, this character, in small enough quantities, is considered a positive attribute in red wines by many winemakers. Aging wine in barrels extracts character from the barrel that also can be mistaken for terroir. These examples are reflective of a kind of deductive fallacy with some winemakersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a belief that if terroir is responsible for all the character of wine and that if the wine is positively received, then any positive character of that wine is the result of terroir.

Monticelloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest and premier boutique vineyard

While much of the character of wine is influenced by different elements of terroir, it is by no means a reflection of terroir alone. None of these concerns are meant to diminish the concept of terroir. The issue is one of semantics. Place is undoubtedly significant in creating a unique and special agricultural product. The question becomes just how significant is terroir in defining a wine, especially outside Europe, where there is little government regulation in how grapes are grown and how wine is made. Discovering terroir is one of the important pursuits in winemaking, certainly in young areas like Virginia. Determining which varieties of grapevine are suited to our soil and climate is a question that every winery in our state is seeking to answer. Jason Burrus is the winemaker for Rappahannock Cellars in Huntly, Virginia. He has an M.S. in viticulture and enology from U.C. Davis and has worked and consulted for wineries from California to the Republic of Moldova.

GoLD meDAL

GoLD meDAL Town PoinT wine ComPeTiTion

VirGiniA STATe fAir wine ComPeTiTion

Tastings and Tours March - DeceMber Wednesday - Sunday and all Monday holidays 11am-6pm January - February Saturdays, Sundays and Monday holidays 11am-6pm and Weekdays by appoinment Minutes from UVA, Monticello, Walnut Creek Park and Michie Tavern

3613 Walnut branch Lane north Garden, Va 22959 Telephone (434) 984-4272

www.sugarleafvineyards.com www.flavormags.com

Vineyard Directory PIEDMONT AREA VINEYARDS ALBEMARLE

Blenheim Vineyards 31 Blenhiem Farm Charlottesville • (434) 293-5366 www.blenheimvineyards.com

First Colony Winery 1650 Harris Creek Road Charlottesville • (434) 979-7105 www.firstcolonywinery.com

Gabriele Rausse Winery Not open to the public Charlottesville • (434) 296-5328

s Jefferson Vineyards

1353 Thomas Jefferson Parkway Charlottesville • (434) 977-3042 www.jeffersonvineyards.com see ad on page 46

Keswick Vineyards 1575 Keswick Winery Drive Keswick • (434) 244-3341 www.keswickvineyards.com

Kluge Estate Winery & Vineyard

CLARKE

Linden Vineyards

3550 Blenheim Road Charlottesville • (434) 984-3895 www.klugeestateonline.com

Veramar Vineyard

3708 Harrels Corner Road Linden • (540) 364-1997 www.lindenvineyards.com

Oakencroft Vineyard & Winery 1486 Oakencroft Lane Charlottesville • (434) 296-4188 www.oakencroft.com

Pollak Vineyards 330 Newton Road Greenwood • (540) 456-8844 www.pollakvineyards.com

s Sugarleaf Vineyards 3613 Walnut Branch Lane North Garden • (434) 984-4272 www.sugarleafvineyards.com see ad on page 61

Virginia Wineworks 1781 Harris Creek Way Charlottesville • (434) 296-3438 www.virginiawineworks.com

White Hall Vineyards

King Family Vineyards 6550 Roseland Farm Crozet • (434) 823-7800 www.kingfamilyvineyards.com

5282 Sugar Ridge Road White Hall • (434) 823-8615 www.whitehallvineyards.com

905 Quarry Road Berryville • (540) 955-5510 www.veramar.com CULPEPER

Old House Vineyards 18351 Corky’s Lane Culpeper • (540) 423-1032 www.oldhousevineyards.com

Unicorn Winery 489 Old Bridge Road Amissville • (540) 349-5885 www.unicornwinery.com GREENE

Autumn Hill Vineyards & Blue Ridge Winery

• Early Spring 2009

3661 Double J Lane Delaplane • (540) 364-0228 www.miraclevalleyvineyard.com

Naked Mountain Vineyard

Oasis Winery Rte. 635, 14141 Hume Road Hume • (540) 635-7627 www.oasiswine.com

FAUQUIER

Pearmund Cellars

Chateau O’Brien at Northpoint

Miracle Valley Vineyard

1376 Wyatt Mountain Road Dyke • (434) 990-9463 www.stonemountainvineyards.com

2042 Burrland Road Middleburg • (540) 687-9770 www.boxwoodwinery.com

www.barboursvillewine.com

8295 Falcon Glen Road Warrenton • (540) 428-1984 www.mediterraneancellars.com

Stone Mountain Vineyards

Boxwood Winery

20 Gold Medals Winner of the Monticello Cup

Mediterranean Cellars

2747 Leeds Manor Road Markham • (540) 364-1609 www.nakedmtnwinery.com

3623 Grove Lane Hume • (540) 364-6402 www.barreloakwinery.com

Is there another?

8278 Falcon Glen Road Warrenton • (540) 347-1119 www.marterellawines.com

301 River Drive Stanardsville • (434) 985-6100 www.autumnhillwine.com

Barrel Oak Winery

OctagOn

Marterella Winery

3238 Rail Stop Road Markham • (540) 364-6441 www.chateauobrien.com

Fox Meadow Winery 3310 Freezeland Road Linden • (540) 636-6777 www.foxmeadowwinery.com

6190 Georgetown Road Broad Run • (540) 347-3475 www.pearmundcellars.com

Philip Carter Winery of Virginia 4366 Stillhouse Road Hume • (540) 364-1203 www.pcwinery.com

Piedmont Vineyards & Winery 2546-D Halfway Road The Plains • (540) 687-5528 www.piedmontwines.com

Rogers Ford Farm Winery 14674 Rogers Ford Road Sumerduck • (540) 439-3707 www.rogersfordwine.com

Three Fox Vineyards 10100 Three Fox Lane Delaplane • (540) 364-6073 www.threefoxvineyards.com

Vineyard Directory LOUDOUN

Sunset Hills Vineyard & Winery

Horton Vineyards

Gray Ghost Vineyards

Bluemont Vineyard

38295 Freemont Overlook Lane Purcellville • (703) 725-3546 www.sunsethillsvineyard.com

6399 Spotswood Trail Gordonsville • (540) 832-7440 www.hvwine.com

14706 Lee Highway Amissville • (540) 937-4869 grayghostvineyards.com

Swedenburg Estate Vineyard

RAPPAHANNOCK

23495 Winery Lane Middleburg • (540) 687-5219 www.swedenburgwines.com

s Chester Gap Cellars

Rappahannock Cellars

18755 Foggy Bottom Road Bluemont • (540) 554-8439 www.bluemontvineyard.com

Breaux Vineyards 36888 Breaux Vineyards Lane Purcellville • (540) 668-6299 www.breauxvineyards.com

Chrysalis Vineyards 23876 Champe Ford Road Middleburg • (540) 687-8222 www.chrysaliswine.com

Corcoran Vineyard Formerly Waterford Vineyards 14635 Corky’s Farm Lane Waterford • (540) 882-9073 www.corcoranvineyards.com

Doukenie Winery Formerly Windham Winery 14727 Mountain Road Hillsboro • (540) 668-6464 www.doukeniewinery.com

Fabbioli Cellars 15669 Limestone School Road Leesburg • (703) 771-1197 www.fabbioliwines.com

Hidden Brook Winery 43301 Sprinks Ferry Road Leesburg • (703) 737-3935 www.hiddenbrookwinery.com

Hiddencroft Vineyards 12202 Axline Road Lovettsville • (540) 535-5367 www.hiddencroftvineyards.com

Hillsborough Vineyards 36716 Charles Town Pike Purcellville • (540) 668-6216 www.hillsboroughwine.com

Lost Creek Winery 43277 Sprinks Ferry Road Leesburg • (703) 443-9836 www.lostcreekwinery.com

Tarara Vineyard & Winery 13648 Tarara Lane Leesburg • (703) 771-7100 www.tarara.com

Village Winery 40405 Browns Lane Waterford • (540) 882-3780 www.villagewineryandvineyards.com

19381 Dunlop Mill Road Leesburg • (804) 739-2774 MADISON

Christensen Ridge 489 Gabriel Lane Madison • (540) 923-4800 www.christensenridge.com

Prince Michel & Rapidan River Vineyards 154 Winery Lane Leon • (540) 547-3707 www.princemichel.com

Rose River Vineyards & Trout Farm Route 648 Syria • (540) 923-4050 www.roseriverfarm.com

Sharp Rock Vineyards 5 Sharp Rock Road Sperryville • (540) 987-9700 www.sharprockvineyards.com

Sweely Estate Winery

ORANGE

16110 Mountain Ridge Lane Purcellville • (540) 668-6248 www.northgatevineyard.com

s Barboursville Vineyards

Quattro Goomba’s Winery 22860 James Monroe Highway Aldie • (703) 327-6052 www.goombawine.com

10 Ashby Road Sperryville • (540) 987-3194 www.smokehousewinery.com

Zephaniah Farm Vineyard

North Gate Vineyard

13274 Sagle Road Purcellville • (540) 668-6756 www.notavivavineyards.com

92 Schoolhouse Road Washington • (540) 987-9292 www.gadinocellars.com see ad on opposite page

Smokehouse Winery

38906 Mount Gilead Road Leesburg • (703) 777-8161 www.willowcroftwine.com

Formerly Acorn Hill Winery 6109 Wolftown Hood Road Madison • (540) 948-9005 www.sweelyestatewinery.com

Notaviva Vineyards

s Gadino Cellars

14437 Hume Road Huntly • (540) 635-9398 www.rappahannockcellars.com

Willowcroft Farm Vineyards

38516 Charles Town Pike Waterford • (540) 882-3375 www.loudounvalleyvineyards.com

Loudoun Valley Vineyards

4615 Remount Road Chester Gap • (540) 636-0886 www.chestergapcellars.com see ad on page 58

17655 Winery Road Barboursville • (540) 832-3824 www.barboursvillewine.com see ad on opposite page

Burnley Vineyards & Daniel Cellars 4500 Winery Lane Barboursville • (540) 832-2828 www.burnleywines.com

Paul Harris

tree and stone works preserving & defining memories

harristreecare@verizon.net 540-987-9871 www.flavormags.com

pairings

Springtime Celebrations in the Piedmont Willis Logan & Sharon Bradshaw

Easter and Passover are around the corner, and the Piedmont region offers some fabulous options for food and wine to celebrate these holy days. Ham Kite’s Ham in Wolftown produces a rare find—a classic Virginia salt-cured ham. Virginians have perfected the curing process over the last 400 years, and Jim Kite does it as well as anyone in the commonwealth. To balance the salt and intense flavor of the ham, we suggest the 2006 Virginia Wineworks Red ($14) from Albemarle County. This easy-drinking Bordeaux blend with a bit of Norton provides enough fruit and structure to balance out and complement the intense flavors of the ham. Remember to slice the ham paper thin and put it over a nice beaten biscuit—or another similar “vehicle”—and then wash it down with this blend.

Pair a full-bodied Cabernet Franc with broiled rack of lamb seasoned with peppercorn, garlic, rosemary, and salt. Lamb Any excuse for our household to serve a rack of lamb, we take. We recommend the Black Eagle Lamb from Nelson County. It is local, perfectly cut and marbled, and full of flavor. We suggest you pair a full-bodied Cabernet Franc with with a broiled rack seasoned with peppercorn, garlic, rosemary, and salt. We plan to serve the 2007 Sugarleaf Cabernet Franc ($27). This award-winning wine is a great showcase for Cabernet Franc and will stand up nicely to the juicy, medium-rare lamb chops served at our table.

Gefilte Fish No kosher wines are produced in the Piedmont, but we can recommend some non-kosher wines. Gefilte fish needs a Sauvignon Blanc to bring out the base for any recipe of whitefish, carp, and vegetables. The best option is the 2007 Seyval Blanc from Rappahannock Cellars ($16). Its austere, grassy notes are reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc and it pairs nicely with fish. Another option would be a sparkling wine, such as ThibautJanisson NV Virginia Brut ($27). Claude Thibaut explained 64

• Early Spring 2009

spring view at linden by mike potter

that he made this sparkling wine in a nontraditional style to enhance the fruit flavor of the Chardonnay. With less pressure and a fine “bead” of bubbles, the wine is well-balanced, crisp, and refreshing, with a delightful aroma of pear and ripe apples. It is a perfect companion to a seafood dish.

Beef Brisket The centerpiece of the Passover dinner deserves a full-bodied red. After slow-cooking your meat to the perfect tenderness and making some homemade horseradish sauce, we recommend the 2006 Jefferson Cabernet Franc ($18). This selection shows berry and spice aromas and has typical Cabernet Franc flavors. The berries and spice will complement the full flavor of the beef and the sauce. Willis Logan is president of the Virginia Wine of the Month Club and the Virginia Shop. All of the above pairs are previous selections of the Virginia Wine Club. Sharon Bradshaw is editor for the Virginia Wine Journal, the members-only newsletter for the Virginia Wine of the Month Club. She is also co-owner of La Provencale Cellars, producers of Le Mousseux, a gourmet Virginia effervescent apple cider.

Kite’s Ham 3957 Wolftown-Hood Road, Wolftown (540) 948-4742 www.kiteshams.net Black Eagle Farm Tye Brook Highway, Piney River (434) 277-8497 www.blackeaglefarm.com

Every growing season, Whole Foods Market works closely with local and regional family farmers to support sustainable agriculture methods that protect our environment and preserve resources for the future. In an effort to expand the availability of quality local products for our customers, Whole Foods Market offers a Local Producer Loan Program which provides many low interest loans to small producers that together total up to $10 million annually. For more information, please visit www.wholefoodsmarket.com.