Flavour Issue 52

for people who love local food

South West | Issue 52

www.flavourmagazine.com

Love Italian Food

Inspired recipes from Maddalena Caruso

WIN!

An overnight stay at Combe House, Devon

Exploring The South Hams

An explosion of tastes in South Devon

Ten of the best country pubs Getting out and about in some of the West’s finest

INSIDE

Your regular Greenliving edition

Join us at Brasserie Blanc for the scrumptiously seasonal

RAYMOND BLANC SET MENU 2 courses for £11.50, 3 courses for £13.95 Add a seasonal choice of wine for only £1.95 per glass.

Available until 7pm.

BRASSERIE BLANC BATH: Ground Floor, Francis Hotel, 6-11 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH. Tel. 01225 303860. bath@brasserieblanc.com BRASSERIE BLANC BRISTOL: The Friary Building, Cabot Circus, Bristol, BS1 3DF. Tel. 01179 102 410. bristol@brasserieblanc.com

www.brasserieblanc.com

Editor Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com

19

Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Rebecca Hellewell, Account Manager Email: rebecca@flavourmagazine.com Photography Jeni Meade Nick Shepherd

welcome

Contributors Martin Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Duncan Shine, Max Drake, James Underdown, Megan Owen, Jack Stein, Laura Roberts, Catherine Hannah, Romy Gill, Kelli Jenkins Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com

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© Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print.

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For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions.

All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability.

Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Inside...

04 WIN!

An overnight stay for two

at Combe House, Devon 10 In Season

Tom Bowles brings us the best of the season’s produce 19 Exploring The South Hams

An explosion of tastes in South Devon 44 Allium Brasserie

Head chef Chris Staines delivers perfection at The Abbey Hotel 53 Ten of the best country pubs

Getting out and about in some of the West’s finest 61 Love Italian Food

Inspired recipes from Maddalena Caruso

Please recycle this product.

How good were those Olympics? And what a great year for Britain as a whole.

We have quite a varied issue for you this month as we took a trip down to South Devon page 19 to explore the South Hams and, believe me, if you haven’t been down that way before you really should think about it. The diverse range of food and drink in such a small area is astounding and makes for a great weekend away.

We have also been out and about looking at a few of our best country pubs page 53. We have selected 10 but we could have had a thousand!

And we also take a look at the renovated Abbey Hotel in Bath, where famed chef Chris Staines has taken up residence at the Allium Brasserie page 44. If you walked past that hotel in the past without even a cursory glance, you certainly won’t now.

What a transformation that is.

I’m hopping off in my camper van now for a week or so and am going to search out some surf in North Devon and Cornwall. While I’m at it, I hope to get waylaid in a couple of local juicers and I’m informed there’s a sizeable spread of seafood restaurants to indulge in. This may well cause me to attain my own sizeable spread. All in the name of research you understand…

Well done!

Nick Nick Gregory

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month

Culinaria becomes Wilks Restaurant

COMPETITION WINNERS

OPENING AUGUST 22 New owners James Wilkins and Christine Vayssade have spent many years working around the world in leading restaurants and hotels.

Now ready to open up on their own they are thrilled to have found such a great location for their first restaurant. Having overseen a significant refurbishment they have created a modern, comfortable restaurant that will serve innovative continental cuisine in a casual and unpretentious environment.

1 Chandos Road, Redland Bristol BS6 6PG

Congratulations go to Jessica Gallop, from Bristol, who wins an overnight stay for two at Howard’s House; and Gillian Leaning, from Bath, who wins dinner for two at The Priory Inn.

Call: 0117 973 7999 Visit: www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk

WIN! An overnight stay for two at Combe House, Devon Imagine a wildly romantic Elizabethan country house hotel set in 3,500 acres of one of Devon’s finest country estates, close to the sea for long coastal walks, yet just a short drive from the cathedral city of Exeter.

At Combe House you will find exceptional food in a wonderful country setting, carefully chosen wines, roaring log fires and generous hospitality.

Listed as one of the most romantic hotels in Great Britain, this is a place you will love...

For a chance to win an overnight stay for two including a Devonshire cream tea on arrival, a bottle of bubbly to celebrate, dinner, bed and breakfast, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with Combe House in the subject header and your FULL contact details in the email body. Good luck!

Valid until 20th December and best room available from Sunday to Thursday.

Gittisham, Honiton, Devon EX14 3AD Call: 01404 540400 Visit: www.combehousedevon.com

WIN!

Well done!

Triple bill tasting at The Hotel Du Vin RED&WHITE, Yapp Brothers and Billecart Champagne are hosting a joint tasting at Hotel du Vin on September 10 from 3.30pm to 7.30pm.

Wine OF THE

MONTH

Available to the hotel and restaurant trade, this is a great chance to taste wines from two of the country’s leading independent wine merchants and one of the greatest Champagne houses.

Email: sales@red-white.co.uk

GOLD, SILVER & BRONZE FOR JON THORNER’S Jon Thorner’s scooped a Gold Award at the 2012 Taste of the West awards.

Somerset butcher Jon Thorner’s received the top Gold Award for their Minted Lamb and Vegetable Pie, which uses quality diced West Country lamb in a rich minted gravy. Their premier range of pies were also recognised, with Silver awarded for their Beef, Potato and Butcombe Pie, which uses locally brewed bitter from the Bristol brewery and a Bronze award for their Pork, Cider and Apple Pie. Call: 01749 830138 Visit: www.jonthorners.co.uk

UNHOLY TRINITY! The hottest chilli vodka in the world is to go on sale at The Trinity Inn, on James Street West in Bath. The chilli used in the vodka is the Naga Jolokia, which is known to be one of the hottest chillies it is possible to grow – even hotter than most law-enforcement grade pepper sprays. The Naga Chilli Vodka rates 1,000,000 on the Scoville scale – the international method of measuring the heat in a chilli – making it the most potent chilli vodka ever to be sold.

It’s not just the legal age limit required to buy this, customers are read and have to agree to a series of disclaimers before they can begin their chilli experience!

Tim McLaughlin-Green, sommelier and wine consultant of Sommelier’s Choice, was shortlisted for the Harpers & Queen Sommelier of the Year award.

His philosophy is to search for and work with family-owned wineries, producing high-quality wines in small quantities, aiming for something really special.

September is when game season starts which includes partridge and grouse.

I remember working at Bibendum Restaurant in London and serving grouse as a whole bird with bread sauce and game crisps and jus. The grouse were not hung for too long, so they were gamey but not over the top – succulent breast with the bread sauce was a delight.

This is the time of year to drink great red burgundy with those classic farmyard aromas or northern Rhone reds, Hermitage and Cote Rotie. That change in the seasons is what living in Britain is all about and the change is reflected in what we eat and drink. I have found a fabulous wine; Saint-Joseph Rouge ‘Cuvee de Papy’ Domaine du Monteillet 2009 from northern Rhone that just fits the bill. Big, ripe fruit, notes of violet, blueberry and cocoa. Succulent fruit and balance make this wine very drinkable.

Available from Goedhuis & Co, Philglass-Swiggot, Allaboutwine.co.uk & Sommelier’s Choice. £20.99-£25.65 All wines available from:

www.sommelierschoice.com

> flavour news

Harvesting the best from the West with a Great Bath Feast Bath is going all foodie this autumn with a new festival ‘The Great Bath Feast.’

Taking place in October, the month-long programme will feature celebrity chefs, street food, specialist producers, celebrity book signings, high profile guest appearances in well-known delis and wine tasting in glamorous venues. The essence of the event is to indulge and enjoy food and drink in a city which has been offering hospitality for hundreds of years.

Organised by Bath Tourism Plus and the Business Improvement District (BID) to celebrate the region’s local produce, the festival will highlight events scheduled throughout the city.

www.greatbathfeast.co.uk

Sustainable fish sales surge in the UK More people are buying sustainably sourced fish and trying lesser-known species, supermarkets report Britons are choosing sustainably sourced fish and cooking lesserknown fish species and sales of alternative and more sustainable species of fish have risen sharply over the past year.

Last year the cook and Guardian writer Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall led the Fish Fight campaign backed by chefs such as Jamie Oliver, which aimed to encourage consumers to reduce over-fishing by switching to

less popular but sustainable fish.

A new Sainsbury’s report found that 51 per cent of its shoppers said health concerns had encouraged them to eat more fish over the last year.

However the report also identified some of the key barriers to current fish consumption levels in the UK, including a lack of recipe knowledge (35 per cent), lack of availability of fresh fish in local shops (28 per cent) and shortage of time to prepare fish from scratch (28per cent).

New monthly Farmers’ & Artisan Market for Bradford-on-Avon New for Bradford-on-Avon, a monthly Farmers’ and Artisan Market from Sunday 26th August, to be held in Lamb Yard and the riverside. The market will combine a wonderful selection of locally produced food, drink and plants with a multitude of artisan products.

The offering from the farmers’ market will include quality, locally grown, reared or made and well-priced seasonal fruit and vegetables, meats (some rare breeds and/ or organic), cured meats, cheeses, eggs, bread, honey and honey-based products, preserves, delicious sweet and savoury baked goods, chillies and chilli sauces, oils, locally marinaded olives, juices and plants – all sold by the producer or someone closely involved in their business.

www.wiltshirefarmersmarkets.co.uk

6

> flavour news

ICONIC FRANCIS MARTINI One of eight signature cocktails at Francis Hotel, Bath In every respect, the Francis Hotel dining experience is something to savour. From morning until late at night, refreshments of an international and innovative kind are served at a moment’s notice from the hotel kitchen in the lounge and bar. The discreet bar area offers an opportunity to relax and sample classic and signature cocktails and the hotel’s carefully selected Champagne, Laurans Brut, sourced from a small, dedicated grower.

Topping the list of signature cocktails is the Iconic Francis Martini. A quintessentially English tipple with a twist, this cocktail reflects the eclectic mix of the modern and the traditional which personifies Francis Hotel.

ICONIC FRANCIS MARTINI Served in a martini glass, garnished with a strawberry ingredients • Jar of strawberry jam • 25ml Russian Standard Vodka • 10ml Bacardi • 15ml strawberry purée • 50ml double cream method Pour all ingredients into a Boston glass (shaker). Shake vigorously for 30-40 seconds. Pour into a martini glass, continuously mixing.

Garnish with a strawberry.

www.francishotel.com

...a memorable experience at Britain’s premier Indian Restaurant

Connoisseurs choice for over three decades Open Daily

4 Argyle Street, Bath BA2 4BA Tel: 01225 466833 or 464758 www.rajpoot.com

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Coffee Soup Salads Bruschetta Panini Wines The Loft, Bartlett Street Bath BA1 2QZ 01225 335380 Weekdays 10.00 to 5.30 Sundays from 11.00 to 4.00 www.cafelucca.co.uk Eat in or Take Home!

> flavour > fab flavour foodie xxxxxxx reads

fab foodie

reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

Drink Me!

How to choose, taste and enjoy wine Matt Walls. Quadrille, £14.99

Pick of the Month!

Fed up with mediocre wine but not sure how to go about spotting the diamond bottles from the dross? Fear not! With Drink Me! part of Quadrille’s exciting New Voices in Food series as your guide, you will soon be extracting the maximum pleasure from every mouthful. In this exciting new book, vintner and über blogger Matt Walls points you towards the right bottle for every occasion, revealing the main different types of wine, the wine styles within each type and the brands or producers that are the most reliable. Drink Me! uncovers the simple techniques that will radically change the way a wine tastes once it’s in your mouth, as well as ways of thinking about and talking about what you’re tasting that will help you appreciate your wine – from the most basic glugger to the most venerable vintage.

Marvellous Meals With Mince.

Foraging. The Essential Guide to Free Wild Food

Josceline Dimbleby Quadrille, £9.99

John Lewis-Stempel Constable, £5.99

The Americans have hamburgers, the Greeks moussaka, the Mexicans chilli con carne and the Italians have their famous Bolognese.

The use of mince in many of the most recognisable dishes of the world is a testament to its versatility. It can be fried, baked, roasted or stewed, used to stuff, top or fill and can be spiced, soaked or left plain. And in times of economic pressure, here is a relatively cheap ingredient that will provide an ingenious and tasty meal worthy of any occasion.

Containing 75 imaginative recipes, this superb book has now been completely re-written, the recipes updated and added to, together with beautiful new photographs.

In this practical guide to foraging, wild food expert John LewisStempel shares his passion for nature’s wild food larder and what edible treasures can be gathered and eaten for free.

Almost the whole year round, in woodlands, fields, on hedgerows and along the seashore, there is a surprising range of wild food to be found. Even in cities, poking from the edge of car parks, bursting through the pavements and hiding under railway bridges, there are tasty morsels to be discovered. Covering 100 wild foods, Foraging includes a wealth of tips and advice on the best edible berries, leaves, flowers, mushrooms, seaweed, shellfish and snails that are fun to find, easy to identify and safe to eat.

My Barcelona Kitchen.

Sophie Ruggles Murdoch Books, £20

Discover a lively, diverse city and have an authentic Spanish experience in your own home kitchen with Sophie Ruggles’ My Barcelona Kitchen.

Inspired by her life in the heart of vibrant Barcelona, cook and food writer Sophie Ruggles brings us her collection of more than 140 traditional and original Spanish recipes, each with her personal touch and her heartwarming, approachable style.

Accompanying the recipes are tales of life in the colourful city and stunning location photography, giving amazing insight into modern Barcelonan life.

9

> flavour in season

At their best

right Runner beans

Runner beans (or string beans) are long, flat green beans with a rough skin. As well as being boiled and served alongside Sunday’s roast they are great cooked up and served in rice salads or paella, sliced and stir-fried or just served as cruditÊs . Older beans can start to grow tough and stringy so runner beans are always best picked younger.

When picked they will store well in a paper bag for a day or two. To prep the beans simply top and tail them and draw away any stringy bits if the beans are slightly older.

Sweetcorn Sweetcorn, when eaten fresh and barbecued on the cob, ticks all the boxes. Tinned sweetcorn is very handy but could never match up to a boiled and grilled cob smothered with butter, black pepper and a speck of chilli. Sweetcorn is a form of maize which has become very popular here in the UK stemming from Aztec backgrounds. It is harvested fairly young to make sure the kernels are sweet and tender but once harvested quickly deteriorates losing its sweetness, very much like peas. If you can, buy sweetcorn with the husks still on as this indicates freshness. The husks should be green and firm and the kernels should be firm and tightly packed. Make sure you eat them quickly to savour their sweetness.

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> flavour in season

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

now

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: @hartleyFarm

Greengages This late summer to autumnal fruit is a sweet and juicy type of dessert plum that ranges in colour from yellow to dark-green, and can be speckled with burgundy. My memories of eating greengages were as a young lad during harvest at the farm. There was always a rather fruitful tree hanging over into one of our fields. I would park up underneath it waiting for the combine to fill up and climb out onto the tractor cab and pick a few to keep me going through the day. I’m sure I wasn’t supposed to but never got caught! They have a soft, delicate, aromatic flesh, and are always best appreciated raw. If cooking with greengages, crème fraîche or Greek-style yoghurt will enhance their natural sweetness in fools, mousses and ice creams. They also have a good level of pectin–perfect for jam making.

Apples OK so we’re not being very imaginative here by picking apples for this month’s spotlight but I think they’re more than worthy of their place. In the UK we are responsible for developing over 2,300 different varieties of apple for eating, cooking and of course making cider. Apple growing is something we are good at, in fact one of the best in the world, so make sure we keep it that way and always buy British when in season. My favourite eating apples are the russet – the epitome of autumn with their golden-brown shades and rough, ‘russeted’ texture. When buying freshly picked British apples you can be sure that they haven’t been maturing for months in cold rooms or polished with wax to make sure they survive the journey across the world; they will be juicy and delicious, just as they should be.

11

> flavour know your knives

Know your knives CUTTING THINGS

A good-quality knife makes all the difference in the kitchen. It should be balanced in your hand, not too heavy, razor sharp and with a good grip. Don’t think you need to be getting the most expensive: some Japanese handmade beauties are highly desirable but may be something to work up to. A reasonably priced stainless steel knife with a fully forged, reinforced blade is easily found on the high street.

CUTTING RULES

KNIFE SHARPENING

 Check your knife is sharp enough – treat it to the steel if not.

Keep your blades in best shape and your knives will last: more importantly you’ll get maximum performance out of them and they’ll be safer (blunt knives slip). Use a steel – a rod of high-carbon steel on a handle – on all non-serrated blades for longevity, safety and sharp techniques. Do it every time you use your knife so it never blunts in the first place. If in doubt, ask your friendly butcher for an impromptu lesson.

 Check your hand and the knife handle aren’t greasy.  Always chop on your board.  If doing a lot of knife work, sit a damp tea towel under your board to keep it steady.  Grip the knife well: put it comfortably in your hand; sit your thumb to the side of the handle, never on top of it.  Wash knives by hand and dry immediately.

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1

Hold the steel comfortably in one hand. Point it up and away from you. Check your hand is safely behind the guard.

2 3

Take the knife in your other hand and cross the steel and blade just above their respective handles.

Firmly slide the knife at a 20˚ angle along the steel so its edge is honed from its base to tip. Repeat the process on the other side.

Do it a few times until you’re happy with the outcome.

Wash the knife before using.

> flavour know your knives

THE ONES FOR THE JOB CHEF’S KNIFE

A multi-purpose broad blade. Good for precision cutting/ dicing/slicing/chopping/cubing/light butchery.

PARING KNIFE

CLEAVER

BREAD KNIFE

SCISSORS

CARVING KNIFE

A long, thin blade perfect for carving neat, wafer-thin slices of meat.

FILLETING KNIFE

filleting

Endlessly useful. Use to gut and trim fish; butterfly small chicken; snip string/chives/ bacon. Get a good strong pair from a specialist kitchen shop.

Bread

A serrated blade for doing the obvious effortlessly. Also good for cutting butternut squash/ pineapple/aubergines.

A big, heavy knife with a very broad blade. Use for heavy jobs (e.g. chopping through ribs/bone) which would damage other blades.

CHEF’s

A small, short-handled blade useful for smaller jobs. Use to trim and prepare vegetables/fruit/cheese.

BLUNT KITCHEN KNIFE

Use to run around the edge of tins to loosen your baking.

A long, thin, flexible blade. The give in the blade lets you work cleanly to lift raw fish off the bone.

scissors

cleaver

A long, narrow, slightly curved blade with a sharp tip blade. Only used for boning meat, so only needed if you’re into butchery.

paring

BONING KNIFE

Taken from

VIRGIN TO VETERAN

by SAM STERN, published

by Quadrille (£20, hardback) 13

askachef:

Chris Staines Chris Staines, head chef at The Allium Brasserie, is one of the most acclaimed chefs working in the UK and is highly regarded in the industry. He was head chef at Foliage, Mandarin Oriental, where he held a Michelin star for seven years and worked with Marco Pierre White at the three Michelin-starred The Oak Room. Chris’ philosophy is to produce simple food with the freshest possible ingredients, in a menu that combines variety and style.

Q

I am having a dinner party and would like to make my favourite guacamole. In the past though the avocado has always gone black. What should I do? James Turnbull, Bath Avocado will start to oxidise the minute you peel and chop it, as the oxygen gets to the skin. A great way of stopping this happening is to lightly marinate the avocado in lime juice and sesame oil.

Q

I have a roast pork recipe calling for brine. What is it and what do I do with it? Sarah Lovegrove, Tisbury Brine is simply a salt-water solution.

In this case I would suggest the following recipe. The three most important things when brining are salt, water and time. The salt solution penetrates the flesh of the meat through osmosis and gives you a tastier and juicier joint. The time you leave the meat in the brine depends on the size of your joint, however, overnight is a safe bet for a large family joint.

• 3 tablespoons honey • 6 bay leaves • 2 fresh rosemary springs • Pinch of fresh thyme sprigs • A handful fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs • 6 cloves garlic, crushed with the skin left on • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns • Water (enough to cover your pork) • Salt (between 10-15% of the total weight of your water)

Q

Is salt really bad for you?

Catherine Thomas, Frome Great question. Salt, like any of the naturally occurring nutrients and minerals in the human body, is essential for good health and bodily function. Salt helps to regulate your body’s hydration, metabolism and blood pressure among other things, and human blood should typically contain 0.9% salt. However, as with most things, too much salt can be harmful to the delicate balance of our bodies. Given that most people’s salt intake now comes from processed foods it is simply a matter of eating these things in moderation. If you are concerned always look for the total salt/sodium content of foods, or even better just cook fresh products which have no added salt at all.

Q

My husband and I love to eat fish but often seem to overcook it so that it becomes dry and tasteless. Any advice? Debbie Reynolds, Clifton Fish is a really delicate product and many people are so scared of under cooking it that they cook it for far too long! Most fish is perfectly edible and even delicious raw or lightly cooked (particularly oily fish such as salmon or tuna). But if you really want a failsafe method that will get you perfect results every time I recommend using a method called ‘en papillotte’. This basically means ‘in a bag’. You can buy fish bags from the supermarket nowadays which you just chuck in the oven, but I always just use a bit of tin foil and a sheet of non stick parchment when cooking fish in this way.

Simply lay a piece of tinfoil on your workbench (large enough to be at least three times the size of your fish), cover with a sheet of baking parchment, brush with butter, add a couple of slices of lemon, some fennel, onions and celery (or indeed any vegetables that take your fancy) lay your fish on top and fold the edges of the paper and foil to form a parcel. Add a splash of white wine and seal; bake for 8-10 minutes and voila… Perfectly cooked juicy fish with its own ready-made sauce.

Abbey Hotel, North Parade, Bath BA1 1LF – 01225 461603 – www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk 14

Jon Thorner’s

the

butcher’s

tip

Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies...

Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk

Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s

T

he word ‘game’ refers to the wild birds and animals which are hunted for sport and eaten. The season starts in September and finishes in February, with certain species beginning and ending within this period.

Duck goes really well with fruity sauces, such as plum or orange.

During this season a fantastic variety of fresh game is available, such as partridge, pheasant, wood pigeon and guinea fowl. We also have venison, duck and rabbit available all year round, some of this is frozen, but fresh can be requested in advance.

Quail is a small bird and you would serve one per person. It has a delicate taste, like a flavoursome chicken.

We predominately source our game from two suppliers; Blackmoor Game, who supply us venison which is sourced as locally as possible, and Castlemead, who supply us partridge, pheasant and mallard which are sourced from local shoots within about an eightmile radius from Radstock, including Mells Park and The Holcombe Shoot.

Rabbit has been enjoying a renaissance with restaurants putting it back on their menus. It is similar to chicken with a firmer texture and a subtle gamey taste.

Game has its own distinct flavour, of varying strengths.

Partridge has a subtle taste and is a good introduction for people experiencing game for the first time.

Pheasant has a strong gamey flavour.

75% of the meat on a pheasant is on the breast, so although it’s great as a whole bird, the breast is equally satisfying.

Wild duck

Wild rabbit

Wild duck is a rich, dark meat and is great roasted as a whole bird, but also jointed into breast or leg.

Wood pigeon has a delicious dark meat, which comes from the fine foods they eat from farms and allotments!

Guinea fowl is the perfect alternative to a roast chicken and is very lean and high in protein.

Wild rabbit has more flavour than farmed rabbit, and is leaner, although due to this poor, wet weather we’ve been experiencing rabbit has become difficult to source recently.

Possibly the most increasingly popular game meat is venison due to its nutritional qualities – it’s leaner than beef and has less fat than a skinned chicken breast.

It has a richer flavour than beef, with a slight gamey note. Just replace your usual beef cuts with venison and treat it the same when cooking – they also make fantastic tasting sausages.

Make the most of this upcoming season while you can…

Partridge Quail

Guinea fowl PHEASANT

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Andrews Quality Meats We’ve had the Games and now it’s time for game. As a company we have been dealing in game to the consumer for nearly 18 years and have noticed a steady rise in demand for good quality local game in the form of pheasant, partridge, guinea fowl, quail, turkey and venison, fallow, roe and muntjac. Our customers are widening their taste and in doing so experiencing more options at the meal table. Pheasant are always available when in season October 1st–February 1st. Here is a wonderful recipe that is simple to prepare for a chilly autumn evening.

Pheasant and Mushroom Casserole – seRves 4 Ingredients • A brace of oven-ready pheasants • 450ml port, Madeira or medium-dry sherry • 250g pig’s liver, finely chopped • 250g chicken, game or turkey livers, thawed if frozen and finely chopped • 30g dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in warm water for about 30 minutes, or 250g fresh field or chestnut mushrooms, chopped • 1 stick (8 tbsp) 4oz (100g) butter • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method 1 Place the pheasants in a bowl and pour over the port, Madeira or sherry. Cover and leave to marinate overnight.

Remove the pheasants from the marinade and reserve.

Mix together the livers.

2 If using dried porcini mushrooms, drain, squeeze dry and chop them. Add two-thirds of the porcini or half the fresh mushrooms to the liver mixture.

Melt half the butter in a saucepan and fry the liver and mushroom mixture for

a few minutes or until the liver is just browned. Leave to cool slightly, then use to stuff both the pheasants and sew them closed.

3 Melt the remaining butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan and brown the pheasants all over. Pour over about a quarter of the reserved marinade and boil off the alcohol, then cover and simmer for about 10 minutes. Add more alcohol and cook for a further 10 minutes.

4 Repeat until all the alcohol has been used, then scatter the remaining mushrooms around the birds and continue cooking for a further 20 minutes or until the thigh is tender when pierced with a skewer. (It needs about 1 ½ hours altogether.)

5 To serve, reduce the cooking liquid slightly.

Meanwhile, season the pheasants, cut each in half and place on plates; spoon out the stuffing and pour the reduced sauce over.

Our locations 16 High Street, Highworth Swindon, Wiltshire SN6 7AG

4 High Street, Marlborough Wiltshire SN8 1AA

Tockenham Corner, Wootton Bassett Wiltshire SN4 7PF

Call: 01793 762085

Call: 01672 519915

Call: 01793 840841

Visit them on: www.andrewsqualitymeatsltd.co.uk

Rabbit is probably the animal that polarises our two nations more than any other. The French look upon it as food, whereas to the British it is primarily a pet and therefore something that should not be eaten. At my family home in France, we had this dish almost every other Sunday. It is really very tasty and I hope I can persuade you to try it. Most good butchers and quality supermarkets now sell farmed rabbit.

Raymond Blanc

Braised rabbit with mustard

Serves 4–6 / prep 20 mins / cooking 45 mins – 1¼ hours ingredients

method

• 2 small wild rabbits (800g-1.2kg) or I large farmed rabbit (1.5-2kg), jointed

To prepare the rabbit: preheat the oven to 120°C/Gas mark 1. Put the rabbit pieces into a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the mustard and turn the pieces to ensure each one is coated in a thin film of mustard.

• 4 pinches of sea salt • 4 pinches of crushed black pepper • 1 rounded tbsp of Dijon mustard • 4 tbsp plain flour • 50g unsalted butter • 20ml olive oil • ½ medium onion, peeled and cut into 6 wedges or 12 Griotte onions, peeled • 6 garlic cloves • 150ml white wine • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar • 150ml water • 6 black peppercorns • 2 sage leaves • 1 tarragon sprig • 1 bay leaf • To finish: 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

This recipe is from Raymond Blanc’s latest book; Kitchen Secrets. For variations on this recipe and extra tips from Raymond, the book is available in Brasserie Blanc in Bristol and Bath.

Scatter the flour on a plate. Dip each piece of rabbit in the flour to coat, patting off any excess. To cook the rabbit: in a large flameproof casserole dish over a medium heat, melt the butter and heat until lightly foaming. Sear the rabbit pieces in the hot butter, in batches as necessary, for 7-8 minutes, turning only as necessary to colour them all over.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small saucepan and sweat the onion and garlic over a a medium heat for 10 minutes, seasoning lightly with salt and pepper after a couple of minutes. In a separate small pan, boil the wine for 30 seconds to reduce.

Add the wine vinegar to the rabbit and reduce the liquor down to a syrup. Add the garlic and onion, reduced wine, water, peppercorns and herbs. Stir, then cover with a lid and cook in the oven until tender, stirring occasionally. Allow 45 minutes for farmed rabbit; 1-1¼ hours for wild rabbit. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To finish the dish: using a slotted spoon, transfer the rabbit to a warmed dish. Place the casserole over a high heat to reduce the liquor by one third. Pour the sauce over the pieces of rabbit and sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Serve with French beans, Swiss chard, braised lettuce or any other seasonal vegetables.

Bath Ground Floor, Francis Hotel 6-11 Queen Square, BA1 2HH Call: 01225 303860

Bristol The Friary Building Cabot Circus, BS1 3DF Call: 01179 102410

Visit our website: www.brasserieblanc.com 17

Exploring the

South Hams

South Hams is the area on the south coast of Devon, with its headquarters in Totnes and containing the towns of Dartmouth, Kingsbridge, Ivybridge and Salcombe. To the north it includes part of Dartmoor National Park and it contains some of the most unspoilt coastline on the south coast. To add to its stunning geography, The South Hams has a fantastic food and drink pedigree, so we at flavour took a trip down to the seaside to investigate. What a find! We’ll be back on a regular basis to add to this already bountiful portfolio‌ 19

South Hams

Thurlestone hotel Owned and run by the Grose family since 1896, the Thurlestone is more than a family concern, it’s a family passion, with every generation adding to the special identity and amenities that keep the hotel in a class of its own. Traditional values combine seamlessly with the latest facilities to create a luxurious classic country hotel in a delightful coastal setting.

The spa facilities include a new indoor pool, a jet spa hydrotherapy pool, a stateof-the-art fitness studio, and a thermal suite comprising a gentle dry heat laconium, a speciality shower, a fabulous new steam room and a sauna suite.

Thurlestone Hotel welcomes non-residents to its AA-rosetted restaurant, with picture windows and stunning views, offering a contemporary slant using fresh local produce.

Near Kingsbridge & Salcombe, South Devon TQ7 3NN Call: 01548 560382 Visit: www.thurlestone.co.uk

The Maltsters Arms An 18th-century inn overlooking Bow Creek, The Maltsters Arms is in an idyllic spot. Enjoy a beer in the cosy yet lively bar, dine in the restaurant with stunning river views or relax on the quayside and soak up the atmosphere.

Operating seven days a week from March until the end of December, The Picnic Boat is chartered exclusively to your party, is licensed to take a maximum of 12 passengers and can arrange to pick you up at a number of locations along the River Dart including Dartmouth, Kingswear or (subject to tides) at Totnes.

There’s a great choice of real ales, fine wine, local cider and a superb menu of fresh, seasonal and locally sourced ingredients on offer. Or how about staying a little longer in one of the six, newly decorated, en suite riverside rooms?

Moorings are also available.

Tuckenhay, Nr Totnes, Devon TQ9 7EQ Call: 01803 732350 Email: maltsters@tuckenhay.com Visit: www.tuckenhay.com

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The Picnic Boat

It is the perfect way to pass an hour or longer with friends and family, (suitable for all ages), and a great way to celebrate that special occasion or get a special weekend or night out off to a great start. All the picnic fare is homemade and wherever possible ingredients are locally sourced, with fantastic menus created by owner and skipper Kevin.

Lower Fairview Rd, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9EE Call: 07968 752625 Visit: www.thepicnicboat.co.uk

South Hams

Manna from Devon Cooking School The country’s most passionate wood-fired oven cooking experts, Holly and David Jones at Manna from Devon Cooking School, have recently compiled a new Wood-Fired Oven Cookbook that is now available on Amazon and in independent bookstores. Packed full of helpful tips, beautiful photography and easy to follow recipes, which can be cooked either in a wood-fired oven or in a conventional oven, this cookbook is a must for any cooking enthusiast.

Lamb and Prune Tagine with Moroccan Spices – Serves 4 This is a great slow-cooked, one-pot dish that you can put in the falling woodfired oven and come back to hours later. The slowly cooked lamb is delicious but the prunes are meltingly tender and create luscious, dark, sweet gravy that you then mop up with flatbreads or couscous. The recipe is also delicious made with beef, mutton or even goat. You can get pomegranate molasses from good delis or food shops. Tagines are traditionally cooked in the conical dishes of the same name that allow the moisture to stay in the dish while it is cooking but if you don’t have one a heavy duty casserole dish works just fine.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

• 1kg/2.25lb shoulder of lamb, skinned, boned and cut into 2.5cm/1in cubes

1 We like to cook this dish in our woodfired oven at around 150°C with enough stored heat to last for at least 3 hours.

If you have already cooked something at a high temperature – maybe some flat bread – then this is the ideal dish to put in the oven to utilise the falling temperatures. In a conventional oven set the temperature to 150°C.

• 2 red onions, peeled and sliced • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed • 1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped • 1tbsp ground coriander • 1tsp ground cumin • 1 stick cinnamon • 200g/7oz pitted prunes, roughly chopped • 2tbsp pomegranate molasses • Chicken stock – about 600ml/1pint – 900ml/1½ pints, depending on the size and shape of your casserole dish • Salt and pepper • 3tbsp chopped fresh mint

2 In a large bowl, mix the cubes of lamb with the onions, garlic, spices, prunes and pomegranate molasses and season well with salt and pepper. Put the mixture into a large ovenproof casserole dish and stir in the chicken stock until it just about covers the lamb. Seal the dish with a tight-fitting lid.

3 Open the door of the oven and place the casserole dish on the oven floor.

Shut the oven door and bake the tagine for 2-3 hours until the meat is tender and the stock and prunes have made a rich dark sauce.

4 The temperature will be quite low now so if you want to keep the tagine in there to keep warm that’s fine.

If you feel the meat is drying out a little, just stir in a bit more stock.

5 When you are ready take out the casserole dish. Sprinkle the fresh mint over the meat and serve the tagine with couscous and a tomato and onion salad.

Higher Contour Road, Kingswear, Devon TQ6 0DE Call: 01803 752943 Visit: www.mannafromdevon.com

Aquamarine £9.99 21

South Hams

Millbrook Inn Reassuringly Pubby

The popularity of the Millbrook Inn just keeps on growing. An infectious enthusiasm for good food, led by compelling French chef Jean-Philippe Bidart, ensures a culinary journey that rarely strays very far from his Gallic roots. This is no ordinary pub.

N

estled between a couple of old thatched cottages in the pretty creekside village of South Pool at the end of Salcombe Estuary, the pub has deservedly won plaudits for its traditional fireside feel that just happens to also turn out some rather good food.

Prior to JP’s arrival some three years ago the pub followed a traditional and predictable food offering, its reputation built upon locally sourced crab sandwiches.

Sales surged during the summer months but ground to a halt over the winter and without some radical thinking the pub could simply not survive.

JP came with an impressive CV; classically trained, he had cooked in restaurants and hotels to Michelin standard and was interested in ‘trying something different’.

Over more than a few glasses of French plonk a strategy was concocted that would

follow cooking that you would typically find in both English pubs and French auberge. A tinker around the edges set the Millbrook Inn apart from others and allowed JP to indulge in his passion for marrying the best of English and French cuisine. It has worked spectacularly.

From that moment in December 2008, JP has delivered at every level and more.

He has exposed his young kitchen team to national cooking competitions, winning the Morning Advertiser’s National Kitchen Team Competition. He himself is the current National Pub Chef of The Year.

He has transformed the fortunes of The Millbrook Inn, building a reputation for now being one of the very best pubs to eat food in the West Country – an entry in The Good Food Guide for the past three years is testament to that.

South Pool, Kingsbridge, Devon TQ7 2RW Call: 01548 531581 Visit: www.millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk

And then there is Where verNext, the ‘inside/out’ catering arm of the Millbrook Inn. The idea is simple but the resu lts are extraordinary. The award-w inning kitchen team like nothing more than escaping the confines of the tiny kitchen , hitting the road and cooking in some unusua l places. Having cooked on rocky headlands, private beaches, working agricultural barns and boatsheds, the team hit on the name ‘wh erevernext’ when a friend exclaimed exa ctly that.

Whether you own or know of a fabulous location, or prefer the Millbroo k team to come up with a location, do get in touch. They are just as inte rested in a dining event for two on the end of a as they are in a grand get-toge jetty ther.

22

South Hams

Bouillabaisse Serves 6

Most people’s summer favourite? It would have to be a leisurely boat ride up to the nearby pontoon followed by a bowl of bouillabaisse washed down with a glass or two of Sancerre.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

•2 0ml olive oil •1 kg fish bones with head (gurnard, red mullet, rascasse or dorade) •6 0ml Pernod •2 00ml white wine •1 fennel bulb •2 carrots •1 small leek • 2 sprigs of thyme • 1 bay leaf • 3 cloves of garlic • 2 celery sticks • A pinch of saffron • 200gm tomato purée • Water • Salt and black pepper

1 Roughly cut all the vegetables to about 1 inch cubes. Sear the vegetables with oil to a nice golden colour, then add the fish bones. Sweat for 3 to 4 minutes. Flambé with Pernod and add the white wine.

2 Pour the saffron, tomato purée, salt, pepper and cover with water, about 3 to 4 inches above the fish. Boil the bouillabaisse for 2 to 3 minutes then lower the heat for 2 hours. Mix with a hand blender and pass through a sieve. Season to taste.

3 You have now made the classic Marseillaise fish stew (bouillabaisse) to which any mannner of fish can then be added.

4 Traditionally scorpion fish, congar eel and gilt head bream were added. At the Millbrook they tend to add fillets of locally caught fish such as bass, red mullet, gurnard and John Dory together with some steamed mussels and scored squid. Simply fry the fillets in a separate frying pan with a little olive oil.

5 Serve with a rouille, toasted bread croutons and a little grated Gruyère cheese.

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South Hams

The Shops at Dartington The Shops at Dartington are delighted to announce that they will be holding a new food producers’/ farmers’ market called ‘Love Food Sunday’ – A taste of Devon at Dartington – which will be held on the last Sunday of every month, starting on Sunday, September 30.

This is in response to customers’ requests following on from their very successful annual Food Fairs, held at the end of May each year. Initially, they will be working with Food and Drink Devon who, as a champion of promoting food businesses in Devon, have an extensive network of members, some of whom are keen to get their produce out to a new audience.

Anyone interested in exhibiting at this exciting new venue should contact Lucy at lucy.parks@dartington.org or call 01803 847515 Shinners Bridge, Dartington, Devon TQ9 6TQ Call: 01803 847515 Visit: www.dartington.org/shops/food-fair

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South Hams

Manna from Devon Cooking School Manna from Devon Cooking School has been quietly establishing a great reputation since it was established in 2006. Run by Holly and David Jones the school is based in their home in Kingswear, overlooking the river Dart.

They specialise in bread making, fish cooking and Mediterranean food as well as wood-fired oven cooking, a subject they recently published The Wood-Fired Oven Cookbook on.

Classes at the school are small, intimate, relaxed and very much hands-on and students can stay in one of their bed and breakfast rooms, ideal if they are extending their visit to spend a few days in South Devon.

Higher Contour Road, Kingswear, Devon TQ6 0DE Call: 01803 752943 Visit: www.mannafromdevon.com

Where else to escape the pressures of life...

Fingals An unusual country house hotel, Fingals is tucked away in its own little valley deep in the South Hams near the River Dart.

Now in our thirty first year we have 11 luxury individually styled bedrooms and two self-catering apartments. This 300year old Manor Farm is surrounded by exquisite gardens.

With a stream-side hot tub, a swimming-pool and sauna you cannot fail to unwind, but for the more energetic we have a beautiful grass tennis court, a gym and are close to endless off-road tracks and green lanes for walking and biking.

Make Fingals your destination for a romantic quiet holiday, an enjoyable house party or a sumptuous wedding.

Fingals at Coombe, Dittisham, Dartmouth,TQ6 0JA Tel: 01803 722398 • Email: info@fingals.co.uk • Web: www.fingals.co.uk

25

South Hams

South Sands Hotel This stylish new hotel sits on the beach at South Sands, a bay just outside the vibrant sailing town of Salcombe.

I

t has a laid-back New England aesthetic and the stunning Beachside Restaurant, set on the water’s edge with panoramic views of the sea, combines a relaxed atmosphere with some of the best local seafood to create a truly memorable dining experience.

they chose to name the room categories after sailing boats.

All of the 22 bedrooms are furnished to the same high standard but, as you might expect with a boutique hotel, they do vary a little in size and aspect. Given the New England style and the proximity to the sea, it will be of no surprise that

The bar makes a great place to meet for a pint, a cocktail or just a cup of coffee. Relax on the banquette, soak up the view on the terrace or get cosy in front of the fire. You can enjoy a South Sands cooler wherever you choose to sit.

The restaurant is open seven days a week and welcomes young and old, families and couples, locals and visitors alike.

Enjoy some of the South West’s fabulous fresh produce with menus designed by Mitch Tonks.

Bolt Head, Salcombe, Devon TQ8 8LL Call: 01548 845900 Visit: www.southsands.com 26

South Hams

The Sea Trout Inn

Red&White

The Sea Trout Inn is a traditional South Devon Inn dating back to the 15th century, situated in the picturesque village of Staverton, near Totnes.

The Wine Shop, Kingsbridge

There are 10 well-appointed en suite rooms available for bed and breakfast, while the restaurant serves a mixture of à la carte and pub classics all sourced locally and as seasonal as nature intended. Choose to dine al fresco on warm, summer days or snuggle up beside the log fires in the winter months – perfect for a restful weekend break, pub lunch or a romantic dinner – a welcoming and friendly place for all.

This fantastic small wine shop stocks the complete range of wines from South West Wine Merchant of the Year RED&WHITE, plus an extensive range of spirits and local beers.

Frequent wine tastings hosted by industry experts and wine makers and outstanding service by knowledgeable staff make this shop a real focal point of the high street. Wine is always open to taste and a delivery service is available free of charge in the local area.

Staverton, Totnes, Devon TQ9 6PA Call: 01803 762274 Email: info@theseatroutinn.co.uk Visit: www.theseatroutinn.co.uk

Royal Seven Stars Hotel The award-winning Royal Seven Stars Hotel, located in the heart of Totnes, offers a variety of quality eating and drinking options all under one roof, and is perfectly placed to enjoy everything South Devon has to offer.

The stylish TQ9 Brasserie and Champagne Bar offers a seasonal menu and extensive wine selection, while two further individual character bars offer allday dining with seasonal daily specials featuring local ingredients prepared with flair and passion.

The Plains, Totnes, Devon TQ9 5DD Call: 01803 862125 Visit: www.royalsevenstars.co.uk

99 Fore Street, Kingsbridge, Devon TQ7 1AB Call: 01548 853898 Visit: www.red-white.co.uk

Royal Castle Hotel The Royal Castle Hotel is an award-winning, 17thcentury hotel situated in the heart of Dartmouth, perfectly located overlooking the inner harbour and Dart estuary.

The hotel has 25 en suite rooms, individually decorated and offering modern facilities with a boutique feel.

The hotel offers fine dining and a fantastic cellar in the Grill Room restaurant, as well as having two individual, atmospheric bars downstairs.

There are special events to enjoy throughout the year.

This historical hotel offers something for everyone, all under one roof.

11 The Quay, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9PS Call: 01803 833033 Visit: www.royalcastle.co.uk

27

South Hams

Dart Marina

Hotel & Spa

Kelli Jenkins finds solace with her family at one of Dartmouth’s favourite retreats...

W

e’ve been to Dartmouth many times before, but never experienced the Dart Marina Hotel and Spa, perhaps wrongly perceiving it as somewhere we wouldn’t feel comfortable taking our five-yearold daughter… How wrong we were.

With images of children and families on the website we were still a little dubious; you never really know how ‘child friendly’ hotels are until you’re there. So many claim to be, but as parents we’ve all experienced that slightly uncomfortable ‘should we really be here’ feeling. But our concerns vanished the minute we arrived, when we were met by John the concierge (who was stopped a couple of times en-route for his local insights) and swiftly checked in. The décor in the hotel is beautifully stylish yet unstuffy, all

28

working to emphasise the stunning and uninterrupted views across the river.

We were lucky enough to be staying in one of the hotel’s five, two-bedroom luxury apartments. Set out over two levels with a fabulous open-plan kitchen, dining and living space, our daughter quickly made herself at home – making rapid claim to the slightly larger of the bedrooms!

The spa and pool area is directly beneath the apartments, so we had a quick swim (children are allowed to use the pool between 3-5pm), back to the apartment to change and then headed to dinner.

As we sat in the bar, enjoying pre-dinner drinks and nibbles it was clear to see the wonderful mix of guests this hotel attracts; the older couples who seem very familiar with the staff and the

hotel, families, parents escaping the kids for a few nights and young couples looking for a few romantic days away.

We made our dinner choices and after a little more people-watching we finished our glasses of bubbly (and apple juice) and made our way to the dining room, being seated at a table in the window – perfect for our daughter to enjoy watching the Higher Ferry take cars and passengers across the river. We ate homemade tortellini with squash; chicken terrine, monkfish, pollock, Bakewell pudding and local cheeses, served with quince, all accompanied by a bottle of Dart Valley reserve from the Sharpham Estate, just a few miles from Dartmouth.

The children’s menu was equally as good, our daughter opting for fish and chips (and we didn’t even have to ask for ketchup –

South Hams

The children’s menu was equally as good, our daughter opting for fish and chips (and we didn’t even have to ask for ketchup – truly child friendly!) truly child friendly!). Dinner was followed by coffee and delicate petit fours in the lounge, then an evening stroll along the riverside before heading back to the apartment.

After a great night’s sleep and an equally satisfying breakfast, we checked out and enjoyed another day in Dartmouth, taking a river cruise, lunch and even crabbing (it’s almost obligatory here) before reluctantly heading home, spending most of the journey placating our daughter who didn’t understand why we couldn’t just live at the Dart Marina Hotel… what better mark of approval.

Sandquay Road, Dartmouth Devon TQ6 9PH Call: 01803 832580 Visit: www.dartmarina.com 29

South Hams

Keynedon Mill An ancient stone mill with lovely guest accommodation, Keynedon Mill is a boutique retreat and tranquil place to unwind amid extensive grounds bordered by a stream.

Beautiful bedrooms with French furniture and antique linen curtains await, while delicious breakfasts using local produce make your stay an absolute treat. Here you can enjoy all the comforts of a hotel without the disadvantages. Voted one of the Top 10 B&Bs in South Devon by The Guardian – a very special place to stay!

Sherford, Kingsbridge, Devon TQ7 2AS Call: 01548 531485 Visit: www.keynedonmill.co.uk

The Millbrook Inn Reassuringly Pubby

This is no ordinary pub. Nestled between a couple of old thatched cottages in the pretty creekside village of South Pool at the end of Salcombe Estuary, the pub has deservedly won plaudits for its traditional fireside feel that just happens to also turn out some rather good food.

Most peoples summer favourite? It would have to be a leisurely boat ride up to the nearby pontoon followed by a bowl of bouillabaisse washed down with a glass or two of Sancerre.

30

South Pool, Kingsbridge, Devon, TQ7 2RW Phone: 01548 531581 info@millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk www.millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk

South Hams

Avon Mill If you are a foodie and also love lifestyle shopping, Avon Mill satisfies both passions with its boutique collection of garden plants and shop, deli, café and art gallery.

Set in the grounds of a former mill, on the banks of the River Avon near Kingsbridge, it makes for a perfect day out. The bustling licensed café is popular for brunch, lunch and traditional Devon cream teas, while the gorgeous decked terraces are perfect for al fresco dining.

Food is freshly cooked in the kitchens, which also supply the Deli with cakes, meringues, pâtés, houmous, quiches and tarts.

Open seven days a week 9am–5.30pm.

Avon Mill, Loddiswell, Kingsbridge, Devon TQ7 4DD Call: 01548 550338 Visit: www.avonmill.com

Laughing Monk Restaurant The Laughing Monk Restaurant is set in the beautiful village of Strete on the main costal road between Dartmouth and Kingsbridge. The food here is all about the wonderful local produce, blessed as this region is with an abundance of high-quality ingredients.

The Journey’s End Inn The Journey’s End Inn is a 13th-century destination public house set in the beautiful ‘chocolate box’ village of Ringmore.

This wonderful old pub offers a large selection of real ales alongside a vigorous and ingredients-led menu. The majority of the pub kitchen’s produce is homegrown or caught in and around the surrounding area. The pub is relaxed, informal and dog friendly.

If Start Bay lobsters, scallops or crab, line-caught sea bass and mackerel, or chargrilled ribeye steaks, eight-hour braised shoulder of lamb, free-range chickens and crispy belly pork are your thing, one thing’s for sure, you can’t get any fresher!

The Laughing Monk keeps it simple and allows the produce to be the star.

Totnes Road, Strete, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 0RU Call: 01803 770639 Visit: www.thelaughingmonk.co.uk

Ringmore, Nr Kingsbridge, South Devon TQ7 4HL Call: 01548 810205 Visit: www.thejourneysendinn.co.uk

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South Hams

BORN BY THE SEA...

Liam Steevenson MW, owner and founder of RED&WHITE, looks at the maritime influence on food and drink in the South West...

RED&WHITE was founded in Salcombe, the stunning seaside village on the southern point of the Devon coast, and although as a company we are excited by our expansion into Bristol, I am sure our roots will forever remain at this point where the land meets the sea. Personally the sea has always had an incredible draw to me; my children were sailing before they could walk and it has been the source of a recent personal challenge when I rowed across the Atlantic earlier this year.

South Devon is rich not only in natural beauty, but also in produce; its red soils yield fantastic vegetables and nurture dairy cows while its coastline, as 32

dramatic as any in the UK, is home to some of the finest seafood in the world. The result of course is a plethora of outstanding seafood restaurants; which for myself as a wine merchant has enabled the writing of some well-considered wine lists.

The relatively new South Sands Hotel offers perhaps the South Hams’ most breathtaking view, straight out over the mouth of the Salcombe Estuary. With a menu designed by Mitch Tonks, the wine list is expansive, yet has a focus on quality small producers, and is excitingly challenging. The list deliberately avoids wines that are extrovert, concentrating on more restrained, elegant wines that perhaps reflect more

South Hams their origin than the ego of the winemaker. A particular favourite of mine is the brilliant Basa Verdejo from the Spanish region of Rueda. Crafted by one of Iberia’s most talented young winemakers, Telmo Rodriguez, its lemony fresh scent and zesty palate is so bright and refreshing it lifts shellfish dishes perfectly. Elsewhere on the wine list the Albarino from Bodegas Terras Gauda, grown in Galicia, just over the border from Portugal in north-west Spain, is also quite brilliant.

essential. Personal favourites in the current selection include a fresh, twangy and almost effervescent Vinho Verde from Qunita de Raza in Portugal, and their own label ‘Oyster Shack Sauvignon Blanc’, which is carefully selected every year, this time coming from a fantastic small winery in southern France that seems that seem to have combined touches of the ripe, tropical notes of Kiwi Sauvignon with the more elegant, mineral flavours of the Loire valley.

The Oyster Shack near Bigbury on Sea, another personal favourite, offers the simplest and in many ways the most enjoyable approach to seafood you will find in the South West. On long tables with plastic tablecloths and simple cutlery, perfectly cooked seafood and shellfish ensure that booking is almost always

Wine and food matching is no exact science, but more often than not wines matches food that is made locally to it. With a maritime influence having such a positive effect on the wine growing climate, it is perhaps not surprising that many wines work wonderfully well with the produce of the sea.

Basa, Telmo Rodrigues, Rueda, Spain £9.95 a bottle One of the most popular wines in the RED&WHITE portfolio.

Light, twangy Verdejo with greengage and gooseberry notes on the palate. Ripe and oily yet with scintillating acidity.

Perfect with shellfish, or on its own on long summer evenings.

10

%

Albarino ‘Abadia de San Campio’, Bodegas Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas, Spain £14.95 a bottle Terras Gauda’s philosophy of constant care and control of the vineyards, and cool, long fermentations, produces exquisitely light, fresh and aromatic white wines. This Albarino is bursting with citrus fruit, ripe yet held together with gripping minerality.

DISCOUNT

FOR FLAVOUR MAGAZINE READERS

Vinho Verde, Quinta da Raza, Portugal £8.50 a bottle Situated in the far south of the Vinho Verde zone, almost on the border with the Douro. The vines are planted on hillside sites to accentuate the freshness in the wine, which combines with cold, stainless steel fermentation to result in fresh, zingy and very approachable wines. A perfect wine for the seafood lover.

The complete selection of wines from RED&WHITE is available on the website. Flavour readers should quote FL40 on the payment screen to receive a 10%.

Call for the same offer! * Offer expires on 1st October 2012

Visit our website at www.red-white.co.uk HEAD OFFICE: RED&WHITE, Clifton Arcade, Boyces Avenue, Clifton Village Bristol BS8 4AA Call: 0845 6830012 Email: sales@red-white.co.uk KINGSBRIDGE SHOP: RED&WHITE, 99 Fore Street, Kingsbridge Devon TQ7 1AB Call: 01548 853898 Email: shop@red-white.co.uk 33

South Hams

twentysix Cafe & Bistro twentysix on Lower Street, Dartmouth, close to the Lower Ferry, is where French provincial meets New England and is a delightful little cafe and bistro inspired by continental living and the chef patron’s love affair with France.

The ‘twentysix’ signature style of muted New England seaside blues, chalky whites and dreamy creams is a wonderful, relaxing setting for hearty French cooking. ‘Navarin d’agneau, Daube de Boeuf, Coq au Vin,’ – reminiscent of thick copper pots filled with herbs, vegetables and wine gently simmering all day on an old stove deep in the French countryside – are just a few of the items on offer.

Drop in for a lazy weekend breakfast or brunch of buttery croissants and

barista coffees. Or a convivial lunch of croques, tartines, shared platters or popular ‘twentysix’ classics – raclette, tartiflette and steak frites. Teatime is a treat with homemade cakes and tarts, gooey ‘Valrhona’ brownies, tartes aux poire et pistache with a choice of loose leaf teas. Dinner is always a casual affair with fresh seafood available daily.

It’s very easy to stay all day at twentysix, for it’s not just a cafe, it’s a way of life. Mangez bien! (Eat well!)

Call: 01803 832882 Visit: www.twentysixcafe.co.uk

‘French provincial meets New England’

Join us at the brand new twentysix Dartmouth, for hearty rustic French cuisine, barista coffees and loose leaf teas.

Signature dishes include croques (French toasted sandwich), tartines, sharing platters, homemade cakes and delicious pastries.

Dinner is always a casual affair with our bistro menu featuring French provincial cuisine, good wines and artisan produce.

Mangez bien!

twentysix, 33 Lower Street, Dartmouth TQ6 9AN Tel: 01803 832882 Email: dartmouth@twentysixcafe.co.uk Web: www.twentysixcafe.co.uk 34

Just off the beaten track

South Hams

Bovey Castle Afternoon tea at Bovey Castle is a speciality and undoubtedly the most civilised and underrated treat of the day.

Scones, sandwiches, homemade cakes and fine teas served in china cups – their modern interpretation of how the manor house’s first residents would have enjoyed this quintessentially English affair.

Afternoon tea retains its ceremonial glamour through its evolving choice of delicacies, best enjoyed from the panoramic window seats in the Cathedral Room and Adam Room, or in front of a roaring fire during the winter months. Afternoon tea is served daily between 3pm and 5.30pm, from £19.00 per person.

Dartmoor National Park, North Bovey, Devon TQ13 8RE Call: 01647 445000 Visit: www.boveycastle.com

The River Exe Cafe The River Exe Cafe is a floating barge just off the ski lane on the River Exe, at the heart of Exmouth’s water sports fraternity.

With the potential to take up to 60 people on board, the cafe has been designed very much like the ‘ski in ski out’ wooden chalets found at many ski resorts, but with the intention that the quality of food and service exceeds all expectations of the external look and feel. The barge has a licensed bar and covered outdoor space with heaters, as well as indoor seating to relax well into the evening without suffering the cold.

The cafe prides itself on its relaxed and local feel. Catering for the individual wanting just a fresh ground coffee and a locally baked cake, to the couple wanting to experience the best West Country food, the dining

experience is all about taste and freshness.

The cafe is a venue for all things local and fun, showcasing bands, hosting live music, comedy nights and themed nights, as well as art classes and cooking courses – in fact, anything that can work is welcome on board.

Call: 07761 116103 Visit: www.riverexecafe.com Follow us on Twitter @Riverexecafe

Find us on Facebook under Riverexecafe

35

Demuths Lightly Pickled Summer Beetroots with Blackcurrants and Fresh Cheese People always think of beetroot as a winter vegetable but it’s actually at its best in the summer; it’s got a lighter, fresher flavour and goes really well with summer berries and fresh bitter leaves. This recipe combines a lovely light way of cooking beetroot with beautiful blackcurrants and a light homemade cheese. Rennet may sound exotic but you can buy it in most good supermarkets and health food stores. This isn’t a recipe to rush and you’ll need to start a day ahead, but it’s well worth the effort.

Ingredients

Richard Buckley is the Head Chef at Demuths, a vegetarian restaurant situated in the heart of Bath, just off Abbey Square.

If you haven’t been to Demuths recently you will be in for a surprise. The menu has evolved to reflect Richard’s passion and innovation for cooking with vegetables, as reflected in these recipes from the Taster Menu.

Demuth’s are exploring the boundaries of vegetable cooking and placing vegetables centre stage on the plate.

2 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX 01225 446059 www.demuths.co.uk 36

Pickled Beetroots: • 5 fresh beetroots • 2 small onions • 20g fresh thyme • 4 fresh bay leaves • 100g cider vinegar • 50g caster sugar • 10g salt • 3 cloves Method Put all the ingredients together into a pan and add water to cover the beets. Cover with a cartoush and simmer gently for an hour or until the beetroots are soft.

Leave the beets to cool in the liquid and then remove them and set aside.

Strain the poaching liquid into a pan and reduce it to a thin syrup. Rub the skins from the beetroots and cut into attractive wedge shapes

Fresh Cheese: • 400g whole organic milk • 200g double cream • 5g veg rennet Method Put the milk and cream into a pan and heat gently. Mix the rennet with a little water and stir into the milk. Set aside for 2 hours.

To Serve • 1 handful of Blackcurrants • Some fresh bitter leaves such as rocket, watercress or land cress • A slice of fresh sourdough bread Take as many cut beetroots as you can eat and put into a small pan.

Pour a bit of the reduced poaching stock over them. Heat gently until the liquid reduces a little and then put it all together onto a plate.

Gently scoop a bit of the set cheese out of the pan and place it on the beets. Scatter blackcurrants and bitter leaves over the top and eat with a slice of bread.

Your lifestyle guide to all things eco...

www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk

August 2012

News 1 South West Cycling Adventure The 1 South West Project encourages people to explore stunning landscapes from the saddle of a bicycle, away from the hustle and bustle of tarmac roads.

The Adventure Cycle Map (http://map.1sw.org.uk) has been developed in partnership with the South West’s protected landscapes. The map shows what to expect, with all paths graded for difficulty and with photos, videos and a height elevation profile. Over 3,000km of cycle legal paths across the region are now shown on the map.

Map reading and navigation skills are still essential once you get out, but this map is a great planning tool to help cyclists of all abilities plan the best ride for them and ensure they don’t tackle something that will be too demanding.

For a well way-marked cycling experience, 1 South West is also developing a number of ‘Trail Hubs’ across the region, including at Ashton Court and Leigh Woods on the edge of Bristol. If you’ve never cycled off-road before, aren’t confident with a map or simply want to develop your skills, trail hubs are a great place to start and the facilities on site make them a great base for a family cycling adventure.

Information about all these trails and more can be found on the Adventure Cycle Map, or from the 1 South West Project website.

www.1sw.org.uk

greenliving

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at Greenliving email Nick Gregory at nick@greenlivingmagazine.co.uk

BohoHemp BohoHemp, an online eco boutique, are on a mission to make stylish and funky eco-friendly clothing easier to find and buy in the UK. All the clothing is Fairtrade and organic and is made from a blend of hemp and organic cotton. Women’s and menswear include hoodies, trousers, dresses, skirts, tees and tanks, shorts, leggings and underwear.

Check out their special 20 per cent offers on the summer collection.

www.bohohemp.co.uk

Rosie Weisencrantz Commission your very own heirloom bracelet If you have lovely old brooch or keepsake lying unloved in a drawer somewhere, here’s a great idea from Rosie Weisencrantz.

Using linen thread, vintage beads, pearls or diamante chain, she will weave her magic and turn your dusty old brooch it into an enchanting heirloom bracelet that you or a loved one will treasure for ever.

She is offering greenliving readers a very special price of £45 including delivery. Contact her for details.

020 7263 7655 info@rosieweisencrantz.com www.rosieweisencrantz.com august 2012

greenliving

The ultimate

home improvement show

improveyourhomeshow.co.uk

Ticket Hotline 0844 581 0802

Returns for the fourth year to a new venue – Olympia, London

The UK’s leading event for home improvers, The National Home Improvement Show, is returning for its fourth consecutive year to a new home, Olympia, London from 28–30 September 2012.

Aimed at the serious home improver, the show brings visitors an unrivalled selection of ideas, inspiration and expert advice to help them take the next step with their home improvement project.

The show has grown significantly and boasts a number of brand new features, including free interior design classes at The Design School, care of Susan Llewellyn, founder of The Susan Llewellyn Academy of Interior Design, one-to-one advice at the Renewable Energy Advice Clinic and real-life case studies at The Inspirational Interactive Café. There are hundreds of exhibitors and experts for you to meet and thousands of innovative products for you to see – all packed into three days under the one roof!

Head along and meet Oliver Heath, star of BBC’s Changing Rooms and

august 2012

specialist in environmentally sustainable architecture and eco interiors, Michael Holmes (Real Homes editor in chief, formerly presenter of I Own Britain’s Best Home); Julia Kendell (DIY SOS and ITV1’s Daybreak); Matt James (sesigner and expert on ITV’s Love Your Garden); Roger Hunt (renovation expert and coauthor of Old House Handbook) and Douglas Kent (expert in period properties, renovations and home improvements).

For one-on-one guidance in The Advice Centre, bring your plans along to see how simple improvements can help create your dream home. Returning features this year include the Smart Advice Clinic sponsored by CEDIA, the Kitchen and Bathroom Inspiration Zone brought to you by Kitchen Bedroom & Bathroom magazine, The Gardening and Landscaping Zone sponsored by Alec

White Garden Design, Tricks of the Trade by resident DIY Doctor, the Masterclass Theatre and Real Homes Live! Theatres offering daily in-depth seminars.

Get inspired for any project from extensions to refurbishment and renovation with the help of the show’s home improvement experts on hand throughout the show in The Advice Centre. For oneon-one guidance, bring your plans along to see how simple improvements can help create your dream home. There will also be two Real Homes Live! Theatres offering daily in-depth seminars.

For more information on the show, exhibitors, seminar schedules and tickets visit the website. Tickets are £8 if booked in advance and £12 on door.

greenliving

A HAND UP

FOR FAIR TRADE COMMUNITIES Retired dis trict nurse , Christine in her gard Lloyd keep en in the vi s seven he llage of Ha For the pa ns llbankgate st two yea near Bram rs she has from the sa pton. deposited le of her eg the money gs into a S made hare Acco “I opened unt. the Share d Interest it up with account w the sale o it h f £100 and to th e eggs. Fo my money p r is with Sh ared Intere me, I know that whils and time a st, it is bein t gain to fair g le tr nt out time world to h ade projec elp them g ts in the d eveloping row their b an income usinesses for their fa and provid milies and communit e benefits to ies.” their

cal ly to help lo goes direct s de st ra rt ve ai in F e an Christin rld. Peruvi o w m g o in fr The money p g o evel ng financin es in the d nt. jillo are usi la an p communiti g ar N in , ss rs uce coa proce cocoa prod op their co rove the st to devel well as imp re te as In ity ed iv ct u d Shar nability. ro ai p st se increa iency and su lich said: fic ef s This should e’ iv aul Sab co-operat xecutive P elopment E ev D al n expand its io Reg was able to lo jil n pe to ra a N US. We ho our funds, pe and the ro 2,500 u “Thanks to e E th to f o s ocoa sale r the sake c fo e , d a th tr w ir a ro ra F g pe tive.” elping their at make up the co-o continue h th rs e cocoa farm

By opening a Share Account and becoming an investor you can help communities in the developing world access fair finance and create sustainable livelihoods. Investing in Shared Interest is easy, anyone over the age of 16 with a UK bank account can open a Share Account with as little as £100.

Call 0191 233 9102, visit www.shared-interest.com or return this slip to

Shared Interest, FREEPOST NT1883, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 1BR

Yes, I’d like to find out about investing in a fairer world.

Please send me more information about Shared Interest.

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flavour drops by

Rowswells Farm

Ten years ago, John Rowswell’s family faced an uncertain future. For almost a century, they had kept cattle on a small farm near Ilminster, Somerset, but were struggling to make ends meet. “We had a dairy herd, and dairy farming was getting harder and harder,” John says. Eventually, his father bowed to the inevitable and sold the cows. John then saw the chance to realise a dream: he persuaded his dad to rent him some land and turned it over to a market garden. “I’d been on at him since I was five to grow more veg.”

The Rowswells had always sold a small amount of fruit and veg. “I remember the wholesalers coming when I was little and buying a bushel of peas off us, and I’d always enjoyed planting seeds – they called me John Seed. When I was a tiny lad, I used to go around the village with a little cart making deliveries.”

But his new idea was to specialise in unusual varieties: ‘Tigerella’ tomatoes, so called because of their stripes, Romanesco, black and golden French beans, red Jerusalem artichokes and most interestingly a huge array of garlic... Now, once a week, a van takes these unfamiliar goodies up to New Covent Garden market,

London, from where they’ll end up on the tables of the capital’s eateries (Michel Roux of Le Gavroche has served Rowswell veg). Closer to home, Rowswell supplies top restaurants and gastro pubs, including Coombe House and Jack In The Green in Honiton, the Castle Hotel and Blagdon Inn in Taunton, Effings in Exeter and Digger’s Rest in Woodbury Salterton. He also runs a local box scheme.

There is plenty more going on at the farm though. At the end of September John is hosting a garlic festival at the farm, with music, food and of course a chance to see a huge array of this wonderful produce.

Despite the weather, this has been a good year for garlic and John can continue to supply six days a week to his mighty array of chefs. “This is not a normal job, I know that – it’s a way of life. I love what I do and I know the produce I provide makes these chefs very happy. It’s hard work, but it’s rewarding and it is what I do best.”

These really are incredible edibles and John has got a great business going on here. You only have to try one of his vegetable boxes to know what commitment, passion, knowledge and experience has gone into providing the area with top-quality produce you would wish for on any plate.

Rowswells Farm, Barrington, Nr Ilminster, Somerset TA12 0JB Tel: 01460 52381 Mob: 07842 962664

43

> flavour allium brasserie

Allium Brasserie Al fresco dining hit just the right note for Catherine Hannah as she discovered a magically renovated slice of Bath...

B

ath is undoubtedly a foodie’s haven, from the Michelin-starred big guns to more simple pleasures, the wealth of restaurants, cafés, delis and bars makes it impossible for any of us to go hungry. Or for us to wander down any street without being spoilt for choice by the good, the unusual and the blimmin’ marvellous. So a new kid on the block in Bath’s crowded restaurant scene would have to be pretty special to stand out from the crowd. Luckily, the latest addition, The Allium Brasserie, has one or two tricks up its sleeve.

Head chef Chris Staines has a CV that would impress even the best of Bath’s foodie crowd, from London’s Mandarin Oriental to Marco Pierre’s three-starred flagship, Chris has seen it all and has brought his special talent to our lovely city. His vision is to create a friendly restaurant for us Bath locals with a bespoke, luxurious feel, where people can enjoy high-end, quality food for a reasonable price in lovely surroundings.

Renovation has indeed transformed the Abbey hotel’s bar, restaurant and lobby from what was a tired, outdated space into a restful retreat from the hustle and bustle of Bath’s busy centre. Previously it was easy to walk past the frontage of this beautiful building without paying it much attention, but the sleek new terrace with its planters and parasols has given it a new lease of life. Inside, soft mauves and greens combine simply with wood and light and give a calming and serene feel, without being too formal or austere.

An eclectic mix of artwork adorns the walls and adds interest, colour and a talking point. The night we arrived, however, we were treated to a rare sunny evening and enjoyed our meal al fresco. If it weren’t for the troupe of Morris-dancers who put on an impromptu performance on the pavement outside we could almost have been in Provence, surrounded by lavender, sipping something chilled and watching the world go by. Bliss.

Given the head chef’s credentials, the menu was how you might expect; seasonal, imaginative and just a little bit different. The range of choices is extensive, from some fun snacks to enjoy with drinks on the terrace (homemade scotch eggs, pea pods and whitebait to name but a few) to a full three-courser.

There is something for everyone including a very reasonable early bird set menu, perfect for a girly lunch or pre-theatre feed. The wine list is extensive and growing, with prices starting from £16.

The menu has a summery feel, heavy on the fish dishes and salads and using unusual combinations to brilliant effect.

In fact, having sampled some of Allium’s creations, I’m not sure I know enough superlatives to describe what was, without a doubt, the best meal either my partner or I had eaten in Bath for a very long time. The starters arrived looking almost too pretty to eat. My partner’s, a beautiful creation of smoked salmon with grapefruit and avocado, was an explosion of colours, flavours and textures. My chilled tomato soup came theatrically

poured over delicate seafood and toasted bread; the flavours and combinations were like a sultry Andalusian evening in a bowl.

Simply delicious. I can also recommend the mouthwatering beetroot salad starter too; a crunchy hazelnut dressing drizzled with finesse over a delicious stack of beetroot, goat’s cheese and radicchio.

The mains were (excuse the cliché, there are no other words) to die for.

My haddock was a colourful medley of delicately cooked fish served on a bed of sweet potato and chorizo, like the older, more flamboyant sister of the traditional chowder and far more delicious. My partner’s stylish plate of grilled plaice with seafood linguine had him doing his best Greg Wallace impression with his mouth full. The deserts provided a light and refreshing end to a glorious meal; little works of art presented with flair and combining flavours so delicately and with such skill that, despite being full, we polished them off with relish.

The Allium Brasserie has more than enough going for it to compete in our foodie town. In fact, it has everything; sublime food at a price that won’t make your eyes water, a great wine list, stylish surroundings, impeccable service and a fab location.

And if, like us, you are lucky enough to enjoy the sunshine outside, well that’s just the icing on the cake. My advice? Get yourself down there as soon as you can to sample some of Chris Staines’ magic.

Abbey Hotel, North Parade, Bath BA1 1LF Call: 01225 461603 Visit: www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk/allium-brasserie 44

The flavours and combinations were like a sultry Andalusian evening in a bowl. Simply delicious.

> flavour the teen chef

James Underdown – flavour’s 15-year-old budding chef – has been back in the kitchen this month to serve up another one of his mouthwatering treats.

the

teen chef Term is finally over and I’m free for six weeks and then back for year 11, so really I only have three years left of education – scary! On one hand I’m looking forward to year 11 and then I remember all the exams I have. To celebrate the Olympics during the opening ceremony we had a dish for the six continents competing in the Olympics: sushi for Asia; spicy chicken

wings for North America; nachos and salsa for South America; kefta for Africa; kiwi pavlova for Oceania and toad in the hole for Europe. It was truly a feast fit for an Olympian!

But what’s better as a traditional summer British dish than scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam? Nothing...

Scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam Ingredients

Method

• 225g/8oz self-raising flour

1 Heat the oven to 220˚C. Lightly grease a baking sheet.

Mix together the flour and salt and rub in the butter.

• Pinch of salt • 55g/2oz butter • 25g/1oz caster sugar • 150ml/5fl oz milk • 1 free-range egg, beaten

2 Stir in the sugar and then the milk to get a soft dough. Turn on to a floured work surface and knead very lightly. Pat out to about 2cm/¾in thick. Use a 5cm/2in cutter to stamp out rounds and place on a baking sheet. Lightly knead together the rest of the dough and stamp out more scones to use it all up.

3 Brush the tops of the scones with the beaten egg. Bake for 12-15 minutes until well risen and golden. Cool on a wire rack and serve with cream and good jam in the sun with a lovely steaming cup of Earl Grey tea.

46

> flavour megan owen

Caribbean Creations To celebrate Jamaica’s 50 years of independence, flavour correspondent Megan Owen directs our taste buds to flamboyant offerings...

n the past few years, England has become increasingly interested in Caribbean food, with supermarket shelves and chiller cabinets now hosting a range of Caribbean flavours to diversify our meal experiences.

Combining African, European, Indian and Chinese cuisines, Caribbean food uses an array of fresh, colourful and flavourful ingredients to deliver healthy and delicious dishes, with popular components including hot peppers, coconut, lime, chilli and mango.

Medicinal herbs, such as garlic and ginger, are also featured heavily to enhance flavours, and chicken, pork, goat and fish act as popular sources of protein.

If you are only after an initial taste to get your buds fired up however, food markets, supermarkets and other food retailers are likely to have some sort of Caribbean offering, and if you are not feeling daring enough to fully indulge in a Caribbean feast, you could opt for a Cari-British fusion by using Caribbean flavours to lift your favourite meals.

You could even source out a local Caribbean restaurant and leave it to the experts, and if you are not aware that one exists in your area, I bet you will be pleasantly surprised.

So ignore the damp summer and bring some sunshine to your kitchen with some Caribbean spirit and mouthwateringly good food (‌and rum). Enjoy!

Feeling inspired to create your own Caribbean feast?

If you are new to Caribbean food, jerk chicken is an excellent place to start your exploration, and to fully immerse yourself in the cultural experience you could even try making your own jerk mix. There are a number of recipes out there to try, but standard ingredients include all spice, scotch bonnet peppers, garlic, nutmeg, thyme and cloves.

For recipe ideas from Reggae Reggae entrepreneur Levi Roots, visit www.reggae-reggae.co.uk/recipes.

You can keep up-to-date with Megan and her foodie adventures at www.london-foodie.blogspot.com, and on Twitter @LDN_Foodie.

47

> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Nick Cooper Age: 29 Where from: Reading Head Chefs at: The Crossways Inn and Restaurant

I was a bit of a late starter in catering.

I dropped out of art college after just six weeks, took a job in a hotel washing up as a year out to decide what I was going to do with my life! I was taken aback by the calmness and organisation of the chefs – it’s almost regimental. They were very precise despite the pressure and heat in the kitchen and I thought to myself: “I want some of this” and from there my journey began. I have tried to learn as much as I can however difficult it’s been and that has stood me in good stead for later in my career.

I’m always looking to create new dishes, tastes and textures and that keeps me alert and eager to start work, I believe being constantly on the move helps keep your mind ticking over so if I’m not in the kitchen I’ll be out on my bike or on the golf course. I think time away from the kitchen is just as beneficial as time in it. I’m always eating out, reading books and magazines and looking online to keep me up to date with the current gastronomic trends.

The Crossways Inn and Restaurant Stocks Lane, North Wootton Nr Wells, Somerset BA4 4EU 01749 899000 www.thecrossways.co.uk

The style here is modern British with a classical French twist. I mostly play with classical flavour combinations and I’ll just put my signature on it. For example, I do a confit duck leg hash with homemade tomato ketchup and a poached duck yolk.

That dish has the classical French duck confit, mixed with potato turning into a hash, a nice rich and slow-cooked duck yolk and finished with a sweet aromatic ketchup – delicious. Food is always going

to be important and I think it’ll always grow, but whatever happens with the technological advances, the need for fresh, seasonal ingredients cooked and served simply will always be paramount.

Being well organised and disciplined always bodes well for keeping up the standards when cooking for a full restaurant. Making sure you are fully set up and ready to go is paramount for a consistently good service; there’s no room for complacency or corner cutting in this industry! Laziness will always be found out. Accolades are very important to me, they set the benchmark for you and your business to push on and strive for more and it’s a good leveller to compare yourself against other similar restaurants.

I’ll definitely be looking at gaining an AA rosette next year. The Crossways has a unique setting overlooking the Glastonbury Tor, it’s an ideal venue for weddings, has plenty of room for functions, a trendy bar, skittles alley, pool table and a lovely restaurant – it’s got it all and that’s what makes it a special place to work.

Our house favourite would have to be the sautéed tiger prawns with chorizo, garlic, sweet chilli, coriander and cream – great with crusty bread to mop up all the lovely sauce. I love cooking with eggs and rock salt is an essential condiment for the larder, but I’m afraid I do have my guilty pleasures too – I’m more than happy with an Indian takeaway or a well-known high street burger!

49

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> flavour wilks restaurant

wilks restaurant F

ormerly Culinaria on Chandos Road, Bristol, wilks has recently been taken over and reopened

by James Wilkins and his fiancée Christine Vayssade. Achieving their lifelong dream of owning their own restaurant, James and Christine offer creative accomplished cooking at affordable prices, attentive, knowledgeable service from friendly staff and a relaxed, informal dining room. Menus will be flexible with sharing dishes, traditional threecourse dining or tasting menus available. In addition there will be two great value set menus, one at lunch and one for early dinner. If you are in a hurry at lunch they will be offering a selection of one-course meals ‘slow food served fast!’ The wine list will be concise and approachable with lots of

good value, young and adventurous wines from around the world.

James’ cooking will be light and modern with an emphasis on clean flavours and seasonal ingredients.

Menus will feature top quality produce that are traceable and homemade, wherever possible using wild foods from the UK, in particular the West Country. Vegetables, fruits, herbs and cereals will play key roles with many dishes suitable for vegetarians.

Inspired by his experiences and travels, his cooking style will unite creative interpretations of classical dishes with traditional and modern cooking techniques.

There is also ‘food for home’; a large selection of dishes to take away for family meals or dinner parties.

Wilks Restaurant, 1 Chandos Road, Redland, Bristol BS6 6PG Call: 0117 973 7999 Visit: www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk

From Land and Sea Pan roasted filet of turbot, bulgur with fruits, fennel, yoghurt and citrus dressing – Serves 2 Ingredients •2 pieces of turbot, 140g each •5 0g natural yoghurt •2 small pak choi •6 -8 sprigs of fennel herb •6 -8 fine slices of raw fennel Bulgur with Fruits: •1 60g cooked Bulgur •4 0g finely diced fresh Pineapple •2 0g finely diced dried Apricot •4 g Lemon zest, finely diced •¼ of a lime, juiced •1 0ml Olive oil •S alt to taste Citrus Vinaigrette: •1 0ml lemon juice •2 0ml orange juice •6 0ml olive oil •1 finely grated orange zest •1 finely grated lime zest •1 tsp sugar •P inch of salt

Method Bulgur: For 160g cooked bulgur weigh 80g of raw.

Cook in lightly salted boiling water until soft. Once cooked drain through a sieve and refresh with cold water.

Once cold, thoroughly drain off the water again and place it in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and mix together with a spoon.

This is a light, healthy and refreshing dish for a summer’s day. It was one of my customer’s favourites in Istanbul and I hope to get it on the menu here too, as long as the sun stays out!

and drain. Just before plating, cook them in boiling, lightly salted water for 30 seconds and serve.

Citrus Vinaigrette: Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk together.

Keep in a small bottle and shake well before using.

Fennel: Keep some herb from the top of the fennel to garnish. Slice the fennel very thinly. (We use a slicing machine) The idea is to give an aromatic anise flavour and some texture to the dish but if it is too thick it will be difficult to eat. If you are having trouble with this you could use a few rocket leaves dressed in the citrus vinaigrette instead.

Pak choi: Cut the root off the pak choi and separate the individual leaves. Wash

Cooking: Heat a non stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add 2 tbls of olive oil

and then the turbot filets.

Cook gently in the pan for 2~3 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the fish. In a small pan gently warm through the bulgur with a little olive oil and water to stop it sticking.

Dressing: Spoon a little yoghurt onto a warm plate.

Then carefully place the fish next to the yoghurt. Spoon the bulgur on and around the fish then the pak choi. Add the fennel slices and herb.

Finish with a few spoons of the citrus vinaigrette.

51

Who says summer is over?

Don’t give up just yet. There’s still time to enjoy the sunshine with a cold pint or a lovely cup of tea…

The Rising Sun

Ashton Court Estate Courtyard Café

Situated just off Pulteney Bridge, Bath, and recently refurbished, The Rising Sun is fast becoming renowned for its friendly atmosphere, real ales and quality home-cooked food. A rustic pub with a modern twist, its best-kept secret is its pretty and peaceful walled garden, a hidden gem in the centre of the city.

Ashton Court is an historic 16th-century country estate located in Long Ashton Bristol, and the cafe is based in the historic mansion house. The courtyard area, where the horses from the mansion house were stabled, has an excellent view over the estate and surrounding areas and is a great suntrap.

Ideal for that quick lunch away from the office, or for a more leisurely lunch and chat over a glass of wine, you can be assured of a warm welcome and great food, from nibbles and light bites right up to belly busting mains. But most famous of all is the traditional English Sunday roasts – booking advised!

Relax with a coffee and a piece of homemade cake or enjoy a delicious lunch from the all-day menu, or even a scrumptious afternoon tea after a walk around the estate.

Call: 0117 963 9174 Visit: www.bristol.gov.uk/page/cafes-parks

Food served Monday – Friday 12.00 – 2pm and 5pm – 9pm.

All day Saturday 12.00 – 9pm Sunday lunch 12.00 – 4.30pm

The Rising Sun, 3-4 Grove Street, Bath BA2 6PJ Call: 01225 425918 Email: therisingsunbath@gmail.com Visit: www.risingsunbath.co.uk

The New Inn At Backwell Where country pub and dining room meet, with excellent locally sourced food and fine wines...

Awarded Bib Gormand in the 2012 Michelin Guide, an AA rosette in the 2012 AA Guide and also listed in 2012’s Good Food Guide, The New Inn at Backwell has plenty going for it.

The strong team of chefs use a very good quality local supply chain to offer a seasonal selection of modern European food in the beautiful restaurant.

As well as being a destination pub for its excellent dining, The New Inn also has a loyal local following. The pretty back garden is more than enough of a draw for those wishing to enjoy a pint of one of their real ales, or simply just to relax in the summer sunshine.

The New Inn, 86 West Town Rd, Backwell, Bristol BS48 3BE Call: 01275 462199 Visit: www.newinn-backwell.co.uk 52

TEN of the best

Country Pubs

Whether you are sharing a bottle of wine, nattering over a few pints of real ale, or ending a stroll through the fields, the country pub is about as British as it gets. We should consider ourselves very fortunate to have quite so many of those options available to us in this area and we have picked out 10 to get you started‌

> flavour country pubs

The Fox AT BROUGHTON GIFFORD There is nowhere better to enjoy some fabulous food outside than at The Fox at Broughton Gifford.

Widely regarded as one of the county’s premier dining pubs, included in The Good Pub Guide, The Michelin Guide and Alistair Sawday’s Pubs and Inns, The Fox sources locally and also grows an extensive amount of their own produce, including rearing British Lop pigs, chickens and ducks – younger members of the family will love it.

You are even able to wander around the smallholding which is situated behind their beer garden. The Fox really goes that extra mile in searching for excellent ingredients, and the quality of their weekly changing menus reflect the commitment the young team have to keeping to their high standards.

The Fox at Broughton Gifford The Street, Broughton Gifford, Melksham SN12 8PN Call 01225 782949 Visit www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk

The George at Backwell Over the last 12 months, The George at Backwell has been transformed following a major refurbishment.

Situated on the A370 from Bristol to Weston-superMare, this village pub is now run by a passionate team who offer a very warm welcome and beautifully presented food to suit every social occasion.

With its relaxed lounge bar and intimate restaurant, The George has all you would want from a good pub, and the stunning courtyard garden and private dining room seating up to 14 guests, makes it extra special.

Supporting the local community is very important to the

team, and whenever possible ingredients are sourced from local suppliers. Seasonally influenced dishes are freshly prepared and very good value.

So, if you want to enjoy a morning coffee, a refreshing drink or a delicious meal, The George is the perfect place for you.

The George at Backwell 125 Farleigh Road, Backwell, Bristol BS48 3PG Call 01275 462770 Visit www.thegeorgeatbackwell.com 54

> flavour country pubs

The Queens Arms

The Montague Inn The Montague Inn is a delightful, friendly, family pub and restaurant, with the strapline “Halfway to everywhere in the middle of nowhere,” – very apt.

It is a ‘must-stop’ destination between the East and the South West and even more popular for those in Dorset.

The Queens Arms in Corton Denham is situated in the dramatic hills forming the Dorset and Somerset border, near the medieval town of Sherborne.

Lounge over a drink or dine by the fires in the winter, or take in the spacious restaurant and terrace during the warmer months. This award-winning pub is great for kids, is dog friendly and offers a unique and welcoming atmosphere. What could be better?

In a quiet stone-built village, the Queens Arms has long been a destination for those searching for a modern rural oasis that offers something special. Customers can relax, refresh and recharge, with big open fires, pork pies on the bar and a sign welcoming muddy boots and dogs.

It becomes clear on arrival why this pub has earned so many regional and national awards.

The Queens Arms Corton Denham, Sherborne DT9 4LR Call 01963 220317 Visit www.thequeensarms.com

The Montague Inn Shepton Montague, Near Wincanton BA9 8JW Call 01749 813213 Visit www.themontagueinn.co.uk

The Old Station Inn

The Seven Stars

With obvious links to the railway, The Old Station features an old Pullman carriage as its restaurant, which has been lovingly restored to all its former glory.

The old station will give you something to talk about and invariably smile about, boasting fine dining in the unique carriage and reinventing pub classics with a fresh feel.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner all day on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

With a Good Pub Guide recommendation and a Taste of the West Gold award, The Seven Stars is quite rightly drawing many admirers to this pretty village free house.

The concise menu successfully balances pub favourites with more eclectic seasonal offerings such as Wiltshire wood pigeon with black pudding and pickled shallots. The fish and seafood menu on Thursday evenings, showcasing the best from Lyme Bay and Brixham, is very popular, along with the well-kept ales and fine wines.

The Old Station Inn Wells Road, Bristol, Avon BS39 6EN Call 01761 452228 Visit www.theoldstationandcarriage.co.uk

The Seven Stars Winsley, Bradford-on-Avon, Wiltshire BA15 2LQ Call 01225 722204 Visit www.sevenstarswinsley.co.uk 55

> flavour country pubs

The Waldegrave Arms

The Three Horseshoes Inn The Three Horseshoes is a 400-year-old country pub nestled in the beautiful Somerset village of Batcombe which features a cosy bar with an inglenook fireplace and beamed ceiling, a stunning dining room with a vaulted ceiling and a wonderful, lush lawned garden overlooked by the church tower.

The Waldegrave Arms, East Harptree, is in the Lye of the Chew Valley area offering fantastic food from sandwiches to full à la carte fare. They have won numerous competitions for their food and have compounded that with winning The Regional Outside Area in the National Pub Awards.

Open to drinkers, foodies, walkers, children and dogs, whether it be a quick pint and a pork pie in the bar, threecourse dinner, or even stay the night in one of the en suite letting rooms, you can be sure of a friendly welcome.

Head chef Lee runs the kitchen with Jess and Vicky at his side, with Sharon at the front of house keeping the pub quaint and quirky. The garden is set in the heart of the beautiful village of East Harptree where you can go for walks along the woodland paths before returning for a well-earned pint.

The Waldegrave Arms Church Lane, East Harptree, Bristol BS40 6BD Call 01761 221429 Visit www.thewaldegravearms.co.uk

The Three Horseshoes Inn Batcombe, Somerset BA4 6HE Call 01749 850359 Visit www.thethreehorseshoesinn.com

The Catherine Wheel The Catherine Wheel is a Grade-I I listed 17th-century coaching inn with a long-standing reputation for its warm atmosphere and traditional home cooked meals.

Work up an appetite by trying one of the pub’s surrounding countryside walks or alternatively, simply kick back and relax in the sunny patio garden or by the roaring log fire.

The Sunday lunch menu includes some great summer salads as well as all the traditional roasts. And if you fancy making a night of it, choose from one of four comfortable en suite bedrooms followed by a superb farmhouse breakfast.

Open 12 noon to 11pm everyday Food available Monday to Friday 12–2pm and 6.30pm–9pm Saturday 12–3pm and 6.30pm–9.30pm Sunday 12–3pm Booking recommended The Catherine Wheel The High Street, Marshfield SN14 8LR Call 01225 892220 Visit www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk 56

> flavour country pubs

The Kings Arms Litton

The beautiful Kings Arms in Litton is nestled at the foot of the Mendip Hills and the entrance to the wonderful Chew Valley, reflecting both sophisticated and simple food choices, all sourced locally and organically and many bought directly from the farmers themselves.

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ust sit back in either the historic surroundings of the 591-yearold 14th-century pub or move to the contemporary surroundings of the Litton dining restaurant and just soak up the flavours and get lost in the tantalising array of choices.

Taste real 12–14-month-old Cheddar cheese and enjoy the beef and lamb born and bred on the Mendips. All is fresh, zesty and carefully prepared – simply a delight to enjoy.

The Kings Arms complements all their food, wine and beer with very high levels of service and when the sun shines, it does so into the beautiful gardens that cascade gently downward towards the gurgling and splashing River Chew, rushing busily through the grounds.

This is Somerset at its very best, for all to enjoy with preparation as close to perfect by the staff along with a fresh taste that sees customers leave with an unforgettable experience.

UNA NOTTE ITALIANA AT THE KINGS ARMS LITTON TUESDAY 28 AUGUST 2012 – ANTIPASTI PIATTO Italian cured meats, cheeses, aubergines, peppers & olives with grilled bread.

Main Course Salsiccia & Fagioli (Spiced sausages & Borlotti beans cooked red wine & herbs) Tagliatelle al Funghi (v) (Mushroom pasta dish)

The Sweet Torta Siciliana al Limone & Mandorle (Sicilian style Lemon tart with Almonds)

Dress code Mascarade & Roman Togas (optional). Tickets are £30 per person or £35 with wine included. And we have 6 new luxury bedrooms all furnished immaculately with king sized beds. Next themed night will be on in September.

The Kings Arms Litton, Litton, Somerset BA3 4PW Call 01761 241301 Visit www.kingsarmslitton.co.uk

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> flavour the queens arms

The Queens Arms Laura Roberts takes to Corton Denham to experience an evening of luxury and comfort in equal measures…

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hilst navigating the twisting roads through Somerset, we worried we had taken a wrong turn. However, as the hedgerows got thicker and the roads ever narrower, we were eventually treated to a picture perfect view of rolling green hills and a charming village church, signalling the beginning of a fantastic stay at The Queens Arms.

From the very beginning of our stay, we were struck by the personal and cosy feel to the place. The bar area where we checked in is warm and personable with large window seats, plump cushions and squashy sofas.

We were quickly shown to our ‘executive’ room, one that I can only describe as a shabby chic paradise; complete with exposed beams, wing back armchairs and an ornate roll top bath.

After enjoying a cider in the courtyard (as the CAMRA 2012 Cider Pub of the Year it would be rude not to) and a lengthy perusal of the menu, intrigued by the prospect of blue cheese ice cream, I opted for the Red Onion and Rosemary Tartlet, Hazlenut Praline and Vale of Camelot Blue Cheese ice cream and my partner plumped for Cornish Crab and Crayfish Tian, Confit Fennel, Pea Shoots and Chilli Balsamic.

My tart produced a burst of flavours unlike any I had ever experienced before.

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The sweet red onion, paired with the crumbly rosemary tart and sweet crunch of hazelnut praline pieces was a treat in itself, but when you throw the cold snap of the creamy blue cheese ice cream into the mix, I was left with a truly unique taste sensation. My partner’s dish was full of juicy crab but still retained a light texture.

For our mains, I couldn’t resist the Organic Gilcombe Farm Char Seared Sirloin Steak.

Perfectly cooked to my medium rare request, the generous slab of meat was tender and flavoursome, the onion rings light and crispy and the chips chunky, golden and crisp on the outside with a pillow of soft potato on the inside. The pink peppercorn and brandy sauce added just enough of a gentle kick, without overpowering the smoky, chargrilled flavour of the sirloin.

However, as wonderful as my meal was my partner’s choice of Slow Cooked Gilcombe Farm Pork Belly was in a league of its own – he declared it was the best pork belly he had ever had!

Golden crackling gave way to the most succulent, melt-in-the-mouth pork belly, accompanied by lemon thyme potato gratin, buttered spring greens and chanterry carrots with a treacle-like sweetness and crunchy bite.

Never been one to turn down a pudding, but nonetheless, with more of a savoury than sweet tooth, we decided to share a

cheese board and White Chocolate and Vanilla Crème Brûlée with Popping Candy and Honey Ice Cream for dessert. The Queens Arms allows you to choose either four or six cheeses from their selection of 10 handpicked by the head chef – ranging from goat’s to blue through to Cheddar.

Highlights included the Wyfe of Bath, a creamy, smooth and nutty cheese and the Dorset Red, an intense smoked cheese.

The Crème Brûlée was everything you could hope for – a crunchy caramel topping and delectable, thick custard.

A sound night’s sleep followed by a hearty full breakfast rounded off our stay nicely.

The friendly and helpful staff do a great job at making your stay a pleasant one, but with the AA-Rosette standard food and AA four star rooms as high quality as they are, it’s not a hard job.

The Queens Arms strikes the perfect balance between luxury and comfort (kind of like fine dining while putting your feet up in a pair of cosy socks) and I would certainly navigate those windy roads for another fabulous stay.

The Queens Arms Corton Denham Sherborne DT9 4LR Call: 01963 220317 Visit: www.thequeensarms.com

> flavour the queens arms

The friendly and helpful staff do a great job at making your stay a pleasant one, but with the AA-Rosette standard food and AA four star rooms as high quality as they are, it’s not a hard job

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Loving Italian La Piazza

Help yourselves to some Mediterranean marvels at Bristol’s finests...

Italian Restaura nt Gold Awa rd of the Ye ar

Quality, freshness and passion, using the best ingredients to produce the finest Italian food.

La Piazza source top-quality local ingredients from smaller producer and organic suppliers, personally selected by their experienced chefs to ensure a proper base to create homemade, authentic Italian dishes.

The wine, as you would expect, has been personally selected from Italy’s finest, making La Piazza a complete, authentic dining experience to remember.

The restaurant is the talk of the town, and Giuseppe (the owner) prides himself on giving customers a taste of Italy and the best value for money.

Thornbury–Call: 01454 414500 Aztec West–Call: 01454201778

Visit: www.lapiazza-bristol.co.uk

Vincenzo’s Pizza House Vincenzo’s Pizza House, on Park Street, Bristol, is one of the city’s institutions – serving traditional Italian pizzas and pasta dishes that remain loyal to the ethics of Italy in their consistency and quality.

Vincenzo’s offers an atmosphere that is as warm as the sun that sets over Sicily, and there is a good reason for that – this is a bonafide, homecoming, feet-up, family-run restaurant.

The décor is not Tate Modern, but if you like postcards on the wall from the thousands of patrons over the years and empty bottles of Chianti hanging from the ceiling, then you’ll be right at home.

The terrace is a bright, spacious, child-friendly space to enjoy your meal, a contrast to the intimate and conservatively lit dozen or so tables towards the reception area, both with their merits depending on your mood.

You will not leave Vincenzo’s hungry.

Vincenzo’s Pizza House 71a Park Street, Bristol BS1 5PB

Call: 01179 260908

> flavour Maddalena Caruso

Maddalena Caruso

Love Italian Food Maddalena Caruso lives in Asolo, in the province of Treviso, north-west of Venice. Despite never having seen either her mother or grandmother anywhere near an oven, Maddalena developed a passion for cooking and firmly believes that good food and a warm and loving atmosphere in the home are vital for enjoying life to the full.

“How I got here is a simple story of obstinate passion and no half measures. I am only 35 years old, yet the memories of my first venture in the kitchen seem lost in the mists of time.

At the beginning, my forays into cooking were a rather messy business and the results were rough and ready, almost as though I was approaching the subject without much concern as to the outcome. Later on, as I became aware that cooking was developing into an essential expression of my creativity. I began to understand how important it was going to be to my life.

My style of cooking is unpredictable; it may veer this way and that or follow a steady course, but I always have the same goal in my sights – to produce simple dishes that follow the changing seasons and cock a snook at tradition, while remaining true to my own nature. I combine flavours guided by my instinct. Every now and then I add a pinch of reason – but never too much!”

Maddalena also writes a blog at: www.maddalenacaruso.com

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> flavour maddalena caruso

Asparagi arrosto con cialda di Parmigiano e vinaigrette al basilico Asparagus with Parmesan crisps and sweet basil dressing Wonderful as a starter, eye-catching but simple, this dainty dish works well with either white or green asparagus, but I have used white. The Parmesan crisps can be made the day before and kept somewhere cool until ready to serve. Always use the smaller, tender basil leaves.

Serves 6 36 white asparagus spears, tips lightly closed 100ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 90g Parmesan cheese shavings 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 10–12 basil leaves, finely sliced 1 small onion, very finely sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper

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Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5). Prepare the asparagus by cutting away any tough bits at the base of the spears, then using a potato peeler to remove any stringy outer parts.

Arrange the spears in a roasting tin (pan). Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then place in the preheated oven for 8–10 minutes.

Remove the asparagus from the oven. It should be al dente – just cooked but still slightly crisp. Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3).

Line a baking sheet with baking parchment (parchment paper) and place 6 tian rings on top. Fill each ring with Parmesan shavings, then place the baking sheet in the oven and cook for 5–6 minutes, until the cheese has melted and started to turn golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

Put the remaining oil, the vinegar, a pinch of salt and pepper and the basil leaves in a bowl. Mix well.

Divide the roasted asparagus spears between 6 plates, top with a few slices of onion and spoon over some dressing. To serve, break the Parmesan crisps in half and arrange on top of the asparagus.

> flavour maddalena caruso

Crudo di branzino con gamberi rossi marinati in vinaigrette di frutto della passione Crudo of sea bass and prawns in a passion fruit vinaigrette Here I have used passion fruit flesh to give acidity to the marinade. It is tempered by adding rosewater, which gives the marinade an even more delicate taste. This marinade works perfectly for fish such as sea bass and prawns (shrimp).

However, you could consider it for any type of crudo – swordfish or salmon, for example.

Serves 6 36 raw prawns (shrimp), in the shell 1 x 1.2kg sea bass, cleaned and thinly filleted

For the marinade: 6 passion fruits 2 tbsp rosewater 2 pinches of salt 1 tsp caster (superfine) sugar 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Make the marinade by cutting the passion fruit in half and, using a teaspoon, scoop the flesh and seeds into a bowl. Add the rosewater, salt, sugar and the olive oil. Whisk together and refrigerate for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, wash and dry the prawns (shrimp). Remove the heads and peel away the shells. Remove any black filaments with tweezers.

Arrange the sea bass fillets and the prawns (shrimp) on a serving platter.

Pour over half the marinade, cover with cling film and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Remove from the refrigerator and garnish with rose petals, a few pink peppercorns, chopped fennel fronds, lemon verbena leaves and mint leaves. Serve with the remaining marinade on the side.

To garnish: 10–12 fresh rose petals 8–10 pink peppercorns Fennel fronds, chopped Lemon verbena leaves, Chopped mint leaves 63

Mafaldine con scampi e zafferano Mafaldine with scampi and saffron Mafaldine pasta is soft in the middle and firm around the edges when cooked. I find it just right for this recipe: it takes up the saffron perfectly and contrasts divinely with the texture of the scampi.

Serves 6 18 raw scampi tails, in the shell 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped Zest of ½ lemon, finely grated

Wash and peel the scampi tails, carefully removing the black filaments. Place in a bowl to marinate with the garlic and lemon zest. Moisten with plenty of olive oil, sprinkle with the saffron threads, cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil over a high heat, add the mafaldine, reduce the heat and cook for 10–13 minutes, until al dente.

Remove the scampi and the marinade from the refrigerator, put in a large frying pan and add salt to taste. As soon as the pasta is ready, remove from the heat and drain. Add to the pan containing the scampi, toss together and place over a medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring gently and occasionally.

100ml extra virgin olive oil Pinch of saffron threads 480g (15oz) mafaldine pasta Handful of flat-leaf parsley Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

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Meanwhile, chop the parsley finely. To serve, remove from the heat, add pepper to taste and a couple of pinches of parsley.

> flavour maddalena caruso

Insalata di patate chips e cipolla fritta Potato chip and deep-fried onion ring salad Everyone has three potatoes and two onions in the house, don’t they? And if they are really lucky, a handful of salad leaves may be lurking in the vegetable drawer. With this recipe you won’t die from hunger ever again.

Serves 6 300g (10oz) baby salad leaves (salad greens) 3 potatoes, unpeeled 2 red onions 4½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil Peanut or rapeseed oil, for deep-frying 1½ tbsp red wine vinegar

Carefully wash and dry the salad leaves (salad greens). Wash and dry the potatoes, then use a mandolin slicer to slice them thinly. Put them in a bowl, cover with cold water and leave for 30 minutes.

Peel and trim the red onions and slice thinly into rings using a mandolin slicer. Remove the potato slices from the water, drain and dry well with paper towels or a clean cloth.

Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and fry the potato slices, a few at a time, until crisp and golden brown on both sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Add salt to taste.

Heat the peanut or rapeseed oil in a deep pan over a medium heat and heat to no more than 170°C (340°F). Deep-fry the onion rings in batches until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Add salt to taste.

To make the dressing, mix the remaining olive oil with the vinegar, a pinch of salt and the oregano leaves. Pour over the baby salad leaves (salad greens) and toss well.

Sprig of oregano To serve, add the potato chips, the fried onion rings and black pepper to taste.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

LOVE ITALIAN FOOD Recipes for friends and family from a home in Asolo By Maddalena Caruso With photography by Stefano Scatà Jacqui Small, £30

Love Italian Food follows the course of the year from spring to winter, with each season sub-divided thematically.

Throughout, the sumptuous reportage-style photography transports the reader to a world where family and friends come together to enjoy the bounty of the seasons. They may be sitting al fresco enjoying the first warmth of the sun’s spring rays, gathered at a table set in the middle of the herb garden in summer, entertaining a crowd in the orchard at harvest time, or seated round a table glowing with candles for a cosy winter celebration.

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flavour’s latest columnist Jack Stein brings us the best from the sea...

Jack Stein was born in Cornwall and is the middle son of three boys to celebrated chef Rick Stein.

After several years learning the trade, Jack returned to The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow as sous chef before moving on to a tournant role across the whole company.

He is currently the head of development for the company, leading the installation and introduction of a development kitchen for the business, where new recipes and ingredients will be tested.

Poached salmon, minted new potatoes and chargrilled baby gem Serves 4 One of the most memorable summer meals our family has enjoyed together is poached salmon with mayonnaise – there really is no dish more satisfying on the odd hot day in Cornwall. It is both simple yet truly elegant at the same time.

Poaching the salmon in a fish kettle means that you have a great centrepiece for the table that you can share with friends.

I was listening to psychologist Professor Paul Rozin speaking about how communal eating increases the level of positive memories associated with a meal and it got me thinking.

Sharing ideas and talking about

food is something that I am extremely fortunate to have grown up with. My fondest food memories are not of wonderful Michelin food but are quite often of dishes like this poached salmon recipe.

I have tweaked the original recipe we used to cook as a child, thinning and whisking the mayonnaise and including the chargrilled lettuce which I think gives it a glorious smoky taste, but just serving it with the mayonnaise, new potatoes and a green salad would be equally satisfying. I know this is one that you will enjoy making for friends and family this summer!

Follow Jack on Twitter @JackStein Image ©David Griffen

Recipe ©Jack Stein

> flavour out of the ocean

Ingredients

Method

1.5–1.75kg organic farmed salmon

1 Put the ingredients for the court bouillon into a fish kettle, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes.

Carefully lower the salmon into the kettle, bring back to a gentle simmer and poach gently for 10-15 minutes.

You want the salmon to be 50˚ on the bone, it should come off easily, and you will need about 200g per person. Set the court bouillon aside.

For the court bouillon: • 6 fresh bay leaves

For the mayonnaise: • 2 egg yolks (room temperature)

• 1 tsp black peppercorns

• 1 tsp English mustard

• 1 carrot, sliced

• 2 tsps dry white wine vinegar

• 1 small onion, sliced

• 150ml sunflower oil

• 2 tbsp salt

• 150ml olive oil

• 4 tbsp white wine vinegar

• 1 tsp salt

• 3.4 litres water For the potatoes: • 750g new potatoes, scraped • 3 sprigs mint

For the chargrilled baby gem: • 4 baby gem lettuces • 25ml cider vinegar • 100ml olive oil • 1 tbsp of chopped chives • Pinch of sea salt

2 Boil the potatoes in wellsalted water with the mint sprigs until tender, drain and keep warm.

3 For the mayonnaise, combine the egg yolks with the mustard and white wine vinegar, whisk and very slowly add the oil. Once it begins to emulsify you can

add them more quickly and season with salt. When you are ready to serve, add some of the court bouillon to the mayonnaise to thin it slightly and whisk to aerate.

4 Combine the olive oil and cider vinegar with the chives to make vinaigrette.

Heat a chargrill or griddle pan so that it is smoking hot and brush with oil, quarter the baby gem lettuces and cook for about 30 seconds on each side, continually basting with vinaigrette and then season with sea salt.

5 To serve, place the baby gems, salmon and potatoes onto a plate and sprinkle some chopped chives over the dish.

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r o t c o D b r e H The Max Drake is a practising medical herbalist at the Urban Fringe Dispensary, where he runs courses and workshops teaching how to use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.

Yarrow {Achillea millefolium}

THIS MONTH

Once you’ve learned to identify yarrow you’ll see it just about everywhere at this time of year. It’s a flower of the meadows really, but it crops up on roadside verges, in public parks and most other places where there’s a bit of spare ground. It’s quite easy to identify because of its feathery, dark green leaves and flat head of white flowers.

The leaves were thought to resemble human vasculature – the complex network of arteries and veins, and according to the medieval ‘doctrine of signatures’ this indicated the primary use of yarrow as a herb for treating wounds. In fact its botanical name, Achillea, refers to the legend that Achilles used the herb to treat the wounds of his soldiers.

The main thing that yarrow is used for today is the treatment of colds and fevers. It’s a diaphoretic, which means that it promotes sweating by dilating peripheral arteries, causing an increase in bloodflow at the surface, and this moves heat from the core of your body to the outside. In some people this action is immediately observable as you can see them turning slightly red after even a few sips of hot yarrow tea. This can be really useful at the beginning of a cold or fever, as the pores will open to allow for sweating and the release of toxins.

Yarrow tea is fine for children as well, although you would probably want to let it cool for a bit first and not make it too strong, as it has quite a bitter after68

taste. It can really help to bring down a temperature and helps to work with the immune system to combat infections, so that in the long run you can become more resilient, without having to resort to the usual painkillers and anti-inflammatories.

The thing is to make sure you can precisely identify yarrow growing in the wild, and to get it from somewhere away from roads, where there is less likelihood of airborne pollutants or agricultural sprays.

Hang it in bunches upside down to dry. Once dried use one heaped teaspoon of the leaves and flowers combined per mug of boiling water, let it infuse in a pot for 10 minutes, strain and drink hot. For colds and fevers you could drink this every couple of hours or so.

Yarrow is such a great herb, and is one that I often tell people to go and explore, as it has so many other properties as well. I would say it is one of the more accessible wild herbs and is a really good “entry herb” for people wanting to find out about herbal medicine.

> flavour the better organic food festival

The Better Organic Food Festival

Visit: www.betterfood.co.uk Call: 0117 935 1725

The Better Food Company love organic food so much, they’re organising their own week-long festival starting on September 22!

“What? No Organic Food Festival?”

Then we shall have our own!

The multi award-winning Better Food Company has been delivering the best local, organic and ethically produced food to the people of Bristol for over 10 years, and owns a large shop and café in St Werburghs and a food hall and deli on Whiteladies Road in Clifton.

The farms that do it right

Why Bother with Organics?

Saturday 22 September

Thursday 27 September

Bus pick up at 10am

St Werburgh’s store café, from 7pm

Tickets: £7.50 (bring a packed lunch, BBQ will be extra) Step aboard the magical mystery bus and spend a day in the countryside visiting some of the local organic farms who supply the Better Food shops and café, all nestling in the Chew Valley.

The day ends with a BBQ at The Community Farm in Chew Magna.

FREE (Drinks and nibbles provided) Soil Association Business Development Director and local farm boy Jim Twine talks about and debates the whys and wherefores of organic farming, dispelling myths and offering some home truths.

Meet Our Producers Friday 28 September and Saturday 29 September Throughout both days at both stores A day out for some of The Better Food Company’s favourite local producers, and a chance to meet them and sample their homespun magic. To include our own-made goods, The Story Group beef and chicken, The Community Farm fresh produce, Hobbs House Bakery, Peppermonger, Heavenly Hedgerows, Vintage Roots, Greens of Glastonbury cheddar, Homewood sheep’s cheeses, Pukka teas, Saison’s Condiments for Cooks and more, to be confirmed.

Barny Haughton’s Pop-Up Pasta Restaurant Friday 28 September Better Food Company Café, St Werburgh’s, from 7pm £20 per head for cookery demonstration and meal Barny Haughton, well-known chef, local food hero and architect of the Square Food Foundation pops up for one night only in the St Werburgh’s café to demonstrate how to make your own pasta and simple sauces, with elements of hands-on audience participation. Then you’re invited to stay and share the food prepared – it all promises to be a grand evening of foodie bonhomie...

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> flavour the xxxxxxx ship

The Ship Porlock

A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider.

M

ention Exmoor National Park and most people think of the acres and acres of wild, open, hilly moorland that stretches from West Somerset across North Devon. It is beautiful, rugged countryside on which sheep have grazed since before the time of Jesus. The Exmoor ponies that roam freely across the Moor are world-famous, while red deer maintain a stronghold here.

The Ship Inn High Street, Porlock Somerset TA24 8QD Call: 01643 862 507 Email: enquiries@shipinnporlock.co.uk Visit: www.shipinnporlock.co.uk 70

But the National Park also stretches north as far as the Bristol Channel, encompassing such places as Lynton, and the hidden gem that is Porlock.

Civilisation in this area dates back to the Iron Age, and Porlock itself gets a mention in the Domesday Book of 1087. It is surprising how unspoilt this beautiful village remains, surrounded on three sides by hills, but with majestic views over the water to the north.

And here, too, sits an inn that dates back to the time of Edward I, and is therefore one of the oldest inns in the South West.

The Ship at Porlock is found at the bottom of the treacherous Porlock Hill, and is a

cracking base from which to explore this part of the world. With its thatched roof and immaculately whitewashed walls, the Ship seems to scream ‘put me on a postcard!’ (a request that has often been granted). Inside is no less picturesque, with a quiet simplicity characterised by large flagstones on the floors and a couple of little fireplaces in inglenooks. Perhaps because of the deceptively out of the way location, the clientele is a genuine mix of locals and intrepid travellers.

When I visited, it struck me that all a traditional bar such as this needed was a friendly dog patiently begging for snacks. I needn’t have worried, for I had barely ordered my drink when in walked a spritely Labrador, grey about the muzzle but full of Somerset vigour.

The dog acted as a guide, as I followed it, and its owner, out into a gorgeous triple-terraced garden. Here, I was struck by the utter calm of the place. Close your eyes and the modern world simply dissolves away and there is only the sound of chatter and a gently panting canine to

disturb the quiet. There is a children’s play area, unused when I visited, but I have always found the sound of happy children a joy rather than a pain anyway. There is a freshness to the air when you’re this close to the sea too.

The Ship is a regular in the various annual pub guides, with the choice and quality of real ales on offer being particularly singled out for praise. A couple of brews from Cornish regional brewer St Austell sit alongside fare from Somerset’s Cotleigh and Devon’s Otter breweries. There is always a guest ale on offer too.

Food is very much locally sourced, with the emphasis on food you would expect to get in a traditional English country inn, so you may be offered Oven Roasted Pork Tenderloin alongside traditional Steak and Ale pie or Homemade Lasagne.

I can quite see how the trip back up the hill may seem more than a little daunting at the end of the

evening, so it may be only prudent to plan to stay over. There are five en suite bedrooms, making use of what, presumably, was originally an adjoining cottage. You’re still very much in traditional territory though, with characterful but well-appointed rooms and a surprisingly large amount of parking given the location.

This is the sort of pub that only England, maybe only the South West of England, can offer. Establishments the world over strive to recreate that ‘olde worlde’ charm that evokes images of rural village life that tap into tourists’ craving for ‘history’. The Ship in Porlock doesn’t need to strive, for this is the real thing, a genuinely historic inn and a wonderful place to stop and put the world to rights.

NB: This Ship Inn is not to be confused with the Ship Inn at Porlock Weir.

The two pubs are known locally as the Top Ship and the Bottom Ship respectively. The Bottom Ship is also well worth a visit, by the way.

Raise a glass to...

St Austell Tribute Ale (4.2%) Originally brewed as a one-off to commemorate the total eclipse of the sun in Cornwall a few years back, this copper coloured best bitter was such a favourite it was renamed and is now the brewery’s most widely seen beer. It’s bitter-sweet on the palate, and you can really taste the hops.

Exmoor Ale (3.8%) A citrus, zesty pale ale with a clean, crisp taste.

Smells to me of lemon or even grapefruit, but the hops come through in the end too.

Cotleigh Tawny Owl (3.8%) Still a session beer, but darker and maltier than most. It takes a while for the bitterness to come through, almost as if all the other flavours got a head start and it just put in a last-minute burst.

Otter Bitter (3.6%) I always think of this as the little brother of the perhaps more widely available Otter Ale. That’s a bit unfair, perhaps, as this has more flavour than its strength suggests. There’s more than a hint of fruitiness in this copper coloured quencher.

Genuine bitterness comes through at the end too.

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> flavour romy’s kitchen

Romy Gill is a chef, businesswoman, writer, wife, mother and runner!

She focuses on the nutrition and healthy aspects of Indian cooking.

Passionate about good health, Romy has lost a great deal of weight and devised her recipes – ‘Curries without Calories’ – to complement her own branded range of pickles and sauces.

Romy has performed in food festivals all over the country, has appeared on TV and used

to be a presenter on a local radio station Thornbury FM.

eating seasonal food and its impact on the environment.

She is proud to be heavily involved in youth culture and gives talks and cookery demonstrations in schools and cookery classes, where she discusses how food is grown, the importance of

Romy will open her first restaurant – Romy’s Kitchen – in the autumn. Watch this space!

Follow Romy

Visit Romy’s site at:

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Find Romy on Facebook under Romy’s Kitchen

www.romyskitchen.co.uk

Baigan Bhartha (Roasted Aubergine) I love this recipe because it is not only very simple and loved by all, but it can be eaten as a dip or a main course and goes very well with yoghurt. I love the smokey flavour of the aubergine and this has always been one of my most favourite ever dishes...

Follow Romy on Twitter @romyskitchen

Serves 2-3

Ingredients

Method

•1 medium sized aubergine •2 tomatoes, finely chopped •2 onions, finely chopped •3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced •1 tsp tomato purée •1 tsp garam masala •1 tsp coriander powder •½ tsp turmeric powder •1 tsp black mustard seeds •2 tsp rapeseed oil •2 tsp fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped •1 green chilli, finely chopped •S alt to taste

1 Roast the aubergine on a gas burner over medium heat, turning regularly for an even cook. Once cooked, peel off the skin and mash the aubergine.

2 Heat the oil in a pan, add the mustard seeds then the sliced garlic and stir for a minute. Add chopped onions and chillies and cook for 3-4 minutes on a high heat and keep stirring.

3 Add the tomatoes and coriander leaves and cook for two further minutes before adding the tomato purée, the rest of the spices and mix well. Season. Add the aubergine, cover the pan and cook for five final minutes over a low heat.

> flavour martin blunos

BREAD OF HEAVEN

Overcoming the challenge of change is easy for Martin Blunos, especially when he uses his loaf…

It’s said that cooks cook and bakers bake. The reality is that anyone can cook and/or bake. It takes a little bit of commitment, confidence, knowledge, practice and love, but the main requirement is change. Change from a set routine can be a challenge–after all, you’ve been doing it that way for yonks! And changing your own routine can be hard – changing someone else’s can be tantamount to revolution!

messy and the peasants revolt!

In culinary land the satisfaction of producing your own bread is hard to beat. The time alone shows and takes commitment.

I’ve found that using change to fan the embers of talent in people will either start a raging fire of ‘I’m learning something’ which will burn so bright that in some cases you have to pull on the reigns, or it all gets kinda

It’s a loaf that combines white and wholemeal flours with a helping hand from Eva (the starter), a cheeky little number that adds flavour and a touch of va va voom. Eva hasn’t been around very long – made in January – but she should

Starter (Eva)

The recipe this month is for my 8 Loaf, so named because of the 8 Brasserie at the Hogarth’s hotel, Solihull. This is where I ply my trade (setting fires or more recently starting revolutions!).

Ingredients • 20g strong white flour • 20g plain live yoghurt • 25g still mineral water Day one: Mix all ingredients, cover and leave for a day. Day two: Mix in 70g more flour with 140g more of the still water leave overnight covered and at an ambient temperature. Day three: Repeat day two Day four: Stir mixture and discard ¾. Add 100g mineral water and whisk in 100g flour – again cover and leave overnight at an ambient temperature. Day five: repeat day four for another three days!

Day nine: feed Eva 100g of flour and the same of water everyday from now on (this means you’ll have to make bread daily!).

You can see why I’ve said she’s optional - worth the effort though!

Ingredients For the 8 loaf: • 1kg strong white flour • 1kg wholemeal flour

with luck be around indefinitely. Using an Eva isn’t essential in bread making, but it’s worth the effort – the crust the crumb, the smell, the taste, the oohs and aahs!

I am not a baker, I’m a cook so this isn’t a definitive recipe, but all I can say is it works for me and the customers like it.

The size we make serves a hungry two or a not so three. Cut or torn and handed around, the wickedly textured crust and crumb begs to mop a plate and soak up a sauce. Takes a lot to better!

(Bread is touchy feely don’t you think?)

Follow me on Twitter: @martinblunos1

• 50g fresh yeast • 40g fine salt • 200ml light olive oil • 1ltr water • 200gm EVA (if you are not using a starter just up the water by 200ml) Method 1 Place all dry ingredients in a bowl.

Mix a little of the water with the yeast until dissolved. Add all remaining ingredients and slaked yeast to the dry mixture. Mix well until a smooth dough is achieved 2 Cover and rest. When doubled in size, turn out onto the work surface and knock back.

3 Form into loaves (55g–60g for the 8 loaves) and set well spaced on to a baking tray. Prove till well risen and dust with flour. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C for 15 minutes or until golden, crisp and done.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

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The Burger Games...

Despite a wealth of food offerings, Nick Harman finds burgers still take the gold medal for the Games goers…

As the Olympics euphoria retreats and our aquatic champions rest their gills and flippers for a while, what memories will our wonderful foreign visitors have taken back? According to what we saw on TV most seemed happily, almost tearfully in many Canadian cases, grateful for the hospitality shown them, even those who ended up staying in nightmare flats on the Cumbrian coast vainly trying to understand anything at all that the natives said to them. Did they eat well though?

Many were no doubt surprised to find their own food being offered back to them in the form of ‘street food’, a craze still doing well in London. To fly thousands of miles to find a middleclass kid selling them not-quite-as-good versions of the food they eat every day, but obviously charging them a lot more, was surely an irony not lost on them.

Many will probably have simply eaten

burgers at the well-known chain whose presence at the Olympics was almost as dominating as the UK cyclists, with its massive 1500-seater outlet the largest location ever. This upset many food bloggers and food journalists who, forgetting for the moment that they too loved a burger, as long as it was made by people you could safely introduce to your parents, felt this was letting the London food scene down.

The fact is though that if you’re looking for a food type that everyone will eat, burgers fit the bill very well. There are tribes in the Amazon not yet in possession of wheels, who can still tell you what a burger is.

The idea of course was that the Olympic tourists, all 29.4 million of them allegedly, wouldn’t settle for meat in a bun, but with a Twitter-derived hitlist would instead flood into central London to savour a

wealth of amusing restaurants. No doubt many did, mostly though one suspects those on expenses such as the media and guests of government. According to some reports, restaurants in general actually saw fewer customers than usual, and while pubs showing the games on big screens did well, most didn’t, their fatuous scotch eggs and ironic meat pies scaring off more customers than they attracted.

In fact lack of numbers meant that many decent restaurants, where getting a table usually means waiting until your dotage, actually had tables free for dedicated food fans. Perhaps then in the coming months, as the Olympic village begins to fall apart, as wiry grass grows through the velodrome track and a miserable cold wind whistles through the rain stained empty buildings, some of us shall come to see the Olympics as actually having been quite useful after all.

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

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