Flavour_October/November 2011 by Flavour Magazine

flavour for people who love local food

South West | Issue 44 | 2011

INSID E

Your free 4 4-p festiv e food age guide

WIN! An overnight stay for two at the Royal Crescent www.flavourmagazine.com

IT WAS A YES!

Now find that perfect wedding venue

GOOD FOOD AWARDS

Accolades bestowed on the best in Bath

Editor: Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director: Richard Cook Email: design@flavourmagazine.com

Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Helen Kembery, Account Manager Email: helen@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, James Walker Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Pieter Swanepoel, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Mitch Tonks, Ron Faulkner, Louis Labron-Johnson, Polly March, Holly AureliusHaddock Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com

© Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent in by the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize. Please recycle this product.

Welcome to longer nights, colder days and the onset of winter, but to counter that and on the plus side, the latest issue of flavour and food and drink at its best. With the anticipation of all things festive just around the corner, it’s been an exciting few weeks here at flavour HQ as we begin to look forward to the time of year when we let our hair down (hair permitting) and savour all that comes with Christmas (wallet permitting).

contents 10 In Season Tom Bowles and Pieter Swanepoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 31 Bought, Borrowed & Stolen Recipes and knives from travelling chef Allegra McEvedy 35 It was a yes! Find your perfect wedding venue 56 WIN! An overnight stay for two at The Royal Crescent Hotel 63 Bath Good Food awards Find out who took the honours at this inaugural event

Our Festive Food Guide lets you know all the great places to unwind and dine, while the Festive Gift Guide page 19 should give you a few early ideas as to that elusive present. If you aren’t quite ready for carols, shopping or Santa just yet, check out Demuths’ Richard Buckley’s recipe on page 45, find out about the hierarchy in the kitchen and who exactly does what on page 15, or explore the wonders of Bibury Court with Polly March on page 12. Anyway, I’ll let you get on and please, please let us know of any great new places of interest you would like to see featured in future issues.

Nick

Well done!

Nick Gregory

> flavour news

HANDS OFF THE TABLE! My Kitchen Table is a unique collection of recipes by the UK’s favourite chefs, who have come together to offer you their best dishes, showcasing the style of cooking they love most. Building on the growing series of My Kitchen Table books, and popular website, the iPhone app will launch in September 2011. The new app is available for iPhone and iPod Touch users, and introduces touch- free technology.

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month SOUTH WEST THE BEST

Developers TigerSpike have developed technology that takes full advantage of the iPhone 4’s front camera, allowing users to simply wave their hand over the screen to skip to the next page.

The new edition of the Lonely Planet guide to our region puts Cornwall and the South West at the forefront of British food. It reveals the region has overtaken the rest of the UK with its innovative cooking, organic, locally sourced and ethically produced food, challenging London for the culinary throne.

www.mykitchentable.co.uk

MAD HATTER’S TEA PARTY ‘Lick Me, I'm Delicious’ liquid nitrogen ice cream creations and Bristol Cooks are joining forces to launch The Mad Hatter's Supper Club. They will be running two exclusive Supper Club nights on 12 and 13 November. Each dinner will cater for 12 guests who will hopefully dress up and get into the theme of the 'Mad Hatter's Tea Party'. The menu will include such dishes as rabbit served in an edible top hat alongside a Victoria Sponge Cake of the surprising variety. Dessert will be a liquid nitrogen ice cream surprise.

COMPETITION WINNER Congratulations to Lynda Brown from Calne, who wins a overnight stay for two at Cowley Manor in Gloucestershire

Tickets will be available for a suggested donation of £40 and will soon be bookable through the website. www.madhatterssupperclub.blogspot.com

Author for the Lonely Planet, Oliver Berry, said "The South West is every foodie's dream; justcaught crab accompanied with local wine in spectacular settings what could be better?” www.lonelyplanet.com

CURD IT BE? The cream of British artisan cheese makers will be heading to Bath for the Fine Cheese Co. Festival at Milsom Place on Saturday 29th October 2011. Cheese aficionados are treated to tasters and talks by 20 of Britain’s finest artisan cheese makers. Milsom Place has gained a reputation for running high quality food events, attracting headline acts including traditional Cheddar by Keen’s and Westcombe, both of whom still make unpasteurised Cheddar bound in cloth. The Fine Cheese Co. Festival at Milsom Place in Bath runs from 10.00am until 5.00pm.

DINNER WITH GOSS THE BOSS

www.milsomplace.co.uk

On Monday November 7, you can enjoy a superb dinner prepared by Michelin star Chef Hywel Jones in The Park, whilst being inspired and enthralled by Pete’s adventures and incredible action photography.

Pete Goss is a sailor, adventurer and former Royal Marine. He has competed in seven transatlantic and two round-the-world races. The most recognized of these was the 1996/7 Vendee Globe non-stop single-handed round-theworld yacht race. This race turned Pete into a national hero for the dramatic rescue of fellow competitor Raphael Dinelli in hurricane-force winds. Pete was awarded the MBE by the Queen and the Legion d’Honneur by the French President. Mon Dieu!

For reservations call: 01225 742777

INDULGE YOURSELF

BRIE-LLIANT! Local fine food retailer The Deli in Fairford has gained second place in the British Cheese Awards Best New Retailer category for the second year in a row. Catherine Elliott of The Deli in Fairford said, "We are delighted. It really goes to show that small local independent shops can now compete with the major chains if they offer great food and service at a reasonable price.”

A must-see this month in beautiful Bath is Indulgence Café, that stocks delicious homemade cakes and pastries, as well as a great range of packaged products – perfect for gifts! To hear more about Indulgence Café turn to page 26, where it features in our festive gift guide.

01225 316265

www.thedeliinfairford.co.uk 5

> flavour news

BEST FOODIE PUB IN BRITAIN After having the judges down for a few visits, The Old Inn, Holton won 'The Best Food Pub in the UK' category for The Morning Advertiser’s Best Pub Awards. The team enjoyed a trip to the Park Lane Hilton where Rory Bremner hosted the awards. Well done them! www.theoldinnrestaurant.co.uk

VICTORIA VICTORIOUS The Victoria Park pub in Bristol was recently awarded ‘Best Newcomers’ for the South West region at the 2011 Great British Pub awards. This is a fantastic and well-deserved result for them, and hopefully their second year will continue in a similar fashion.

FLAVRBOX Launching this Autumn, Flavrbox is a Bristol-based start-up that promises to make it easy for people to discover and buy unique, interesting products made by some of the finest independent food and drink producers around. The team clearly like surprises and so are being deliberately mysterious about what's coming, but guarantee that if you love good food, you're in for a very tasty treat. In the run-up to the launch, they're currently offering an exclusive 10% discount on all purchases for an entire year, to early birds who sign up to their newsletter. Check out the website to save your spot! www.flavrbox.com

www.thevictoriapark.co.uk

RECTORY WINS TOP PRIZE Those at the Rectory Hotel in Crudwell were no doubt jumping and whooping with joy last week when a letter stamped from the Good Pub Guide landed on their doorstep bringing news of a most prestigious accolade: They have been awarded National Pub of The Year for 2012! A big congratulations to them, and may this massive award take them as far as they want to go. www.therectoryhotel.com

FLINTY STINT IN BRISTOL Legendary winemaker Sergio Germano, of Ettore Germano wine estate, is visiting Bristol on November 15 on behalf of Flinty Red wines. The luminous and dynamic Sergio Germano is a very talented young winemaker who confidently runs this important estate, which year after year scales new peaks of quality and reliability. At the vanguard of modern wine making, the Ettore Germano estate is gaining worldwide acclaim. It will be a prestigious event for Flinty Red to have Sergio there on the night to introduce his exceptional range of wines. www.flintyred.co.uk

GOURMET GUS AT THE TASTING ROOM On 14th November 2011, The Tasting Room in Bath will present a gourmet dinner created by Michelin starred Chef Gus Ashenford. Join them for a seven-course meal with accompanying wines. Gus has held his Michelin star for 15 years and currently owns Five North Street Restaurant in Winchcombe. He is also proud to be co-owner of The Tasting Room. This is sure to be an exceptional evening, costing just £70 per person. 6 Green Street Bath BA1 2JY 01225 483070 www.tastingroom.co.uk

HELP THE HOMELESS THIS WINTER

On Thursday, November 3, Brasserie Blanc will be holding a local produce showcase night in the heart of the Cabot Circus development. From 5.30pm onwards (last seating 10pm) ‘the a la carte’ and ‘dine with wine’ menus will be available as normal, but the focus will be on the Specials Menu showcasing local and seasonal produce.

StreetSmart is a national campaign that raises funds for the homeless through restaurants adding an optional £1 onto each table's bill during November and December. Many Bristol-based restaurants have signed up, including Bell's Diner, Berwick Lodge, Café Maitreya, Clifton Kitchen, Delmonico, Fisher's and Moreish.

Using Ruby & White Butchers and Burtons Go Banana's, Brasserie Blanc's chefs will be serving-up some traditional French, local and seasonal dishes and the pricing will be within the general range of the a la carte dishes.

So there is something positive that we can do for those less fortunate than ourselves this winter - we can eat in a StreetSmart restaurant and agree that £1 is added to our restaurant bill. People sleeping out need an alternative and we can help to provide it.

www.brasserieblanc.com

www.streetsmart.org.uk

IT’S SAUSAGE FEST TIME... CURRY-TASTIC The internationally-renowned Rajpoot of Bath has won the prestigious 'Asian Curry Awards 2011' as the Best Indian Restaurant in the South-West at a glittering gala dinner held at the Royal Lancaster Hotel, London. The event was presented by Sky News broadcaster and presenter Lukwesa Burak and attended by dignitaries, ministers, Lords, MPs, community and media personalities. Ahmed Chowdhury, owner of Rajpoot, said: “This is yet another endorsement of Rajpoot which was established 31 years ago. Credit goes to my staff and our customers.”

Banger lovers rejoice: National Sausage Week is nearly upon us. If you were not already aware, this is happening between Monday 31 October, and Friday 4 November. The Sausage Fest - a South-West based premier sausage company - have a lot planned for this week, including new and exciting sausages, and great deals for their customers. They have also just been featured in Jamie Oliver's brand new book Jamie's Great Britain so this coincides nicely with sausage week as there are great recipes inside for sausages!

www.rajpoot.com / 01225 466833 www.thesausagefest.co.uk

Now Open in Bristol, state of the art built in appliance showcase 1st of its kind in the UK!

g Comin! n o so

Fun Creative Cooking ~ The Perfect Recipe! Don your apron, roll up your sleeves and get stuck into creative fun cooking at the new ‘102 Cookery School’, we have over 20 courses to choose from and are due to open in December. This will also give you the opportunity to purchase vouchers for the perfect Christmas present. The school is nestled in the roof of the old chapel on Gloucester Road, Bristol.

FREE PARKING

WIN, WIN, WIN! To celebrate the opening of their new cookery school, Nailsea Electrical are offering a lucky couple the chance to win two gift vouchers for cooking lessons, worth £95 each, in addition to a very stylish wine cooler. Write in to competitions@flavourmagazine.com quoting ‘flavour102’ for your chance to win these fantastic prizes.

> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads ITALIAN HOME BAKING GINO D’ACAMPO Kyle Books, £18.99

One of the UK’s best-loved Italian chefs, Gino D’Acampo is delighting his readers this autumn with a fifth book which dives into the world of Italian baking at home. With four best-selling titles to be proud of Gino felt ready to write about the ultimate in comfort foods: Italian breads, cakes, biscotti, pasta, party food and of course, pizza. Some of these recipes also draw direct inspiration from his home town of Naples, including Pane Rustico and Pizza Volante – a round pizza ‘sandwich’ stuffed with spinach, ricotta and mozzarella.

JAMIE’S GREAT BRITAIN JAMIE OLIVER

HAWKSMOOR AT HOME FIONA BECKETT & RICHARD TURNER Preface, £25

The Hawksmoor restaurants in Spitalfields and Seven Dials have been a sensation. Their credo is simple: the best ingredients – dictionary-thick steaks from Longham cattle dry-aged for at least 35 days, simply cooked on a real charcoal grill. Hawksmoor At Home is a practical cookbook which shows you how to buy and cook great steak and seafood and indeed much else (including how to cook both the ‘best burger in Britain’, and the ‘best roast beef in Britain’); how to mix terrific cocktails and choose wine to accompany your meal. Above all, Hawksmoor At Home entertains and informs in the inimitable ‘Hawksmoor’ way.

Pick of the Month!

Michael Joseph/Penguin, £30

SPICES SOPHIE GRIGSON Quadrille, £20

Sophie Grigson provides a captivating yet practical guide to the exciting wealth of spices that we all have access to. They are grouped into chapters of specific tastes, from Bitter and Sour (turmeric and sumac), to Aromatic (cumin and juniper); and each spice has its own dedicated entry, complete with recipes that explore and enhance its unique aroma and flavour. Packed with intriguing tales and enticing recipes, Spices ensures you’ll look at spices as fascinating pieces of our culinary history as well as

Jamie’s Great Britain contains over 100 new recipes from around the country that demonstrate, in Jamie’s view, the very best of British cooking. Some are indisputable classics; some are his twists on classic British recipes and others he has created from the great bounty of British produce. Jamie has a real knack of tapping into the zeitgeist. Combined with Jamie’s passion for his subject and his track record of creating inspiring and accessible recipes, this cookbook aims to show there has never been a better time to celebrate British food. Jamie’s Great Britain will tie into a six-part Channel 4 TV series of the same name to be broadcast this autumn. 9

> flavour in season

At their best right We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Pieter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

pumpkin

ROASTED PUMPKIN AND COCONUT VELOUTÉ

parsnips

Pumpkins are often mistreated when they burst into season and are carved up for a Halloween decoration. This is a waste of what is an amazing ingredient at this time of year, whether roasted or fried, made into soups or pies. Pumpkins work really well with heavier herbs and spices such as thyme or ginger to work with their sweetness. Try roasting the seeds with salt and chilli too. Pick pumpkins that are weighty and with unblemished skin. If kept in a cool dark place they will keep for several weeks.

Transfer 1kg of peeled and chopped pumpkin to a roasting tray. Drizzle with olive oil, salt, freshly cracked pepper, 4 cloves crushed garlic, 1 tbsp cumin seed and pinch of curry powder. Roast in a pre-heated oven at 200°C until soft and slightly charred. In a medium pan sweat down 3 shallots, a stick of celery and 1tsp coriander seeds. Add 500ml light chicken stock and reduce by a third. Add the roasted pumpkin, 200ml coconut milk and bring to the boil. Blend until smooth and adjust seasoning. Serve with a swirl of coconut milk, chopped coriander and toasted pumpkin seeds.

Parsnips are a sweet-flavoured root veg that can’t be beaten this time of year. Historically, parsnips were used to sweeten dishes where sugar was not widely available and so were used a great deal more in cooking. When roasted, parsnips can be deliciously sweet and a great complement to any Sunday roast. A little tip is to pick parsnips that have already faced a frost as this adds to their sweetness. Try to pick firm, dry parsnips that are not too big as the bigger they are the more woody the core tends to be. They can be stored in a fridge for 2-3 weeks provided they are covered. A parsnip that is no longer at its best will tend to look withered and wrinkled and turns slightly soft.

> flavour in season

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside of Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk With two AA rosettes. The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modern British cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk

now SPICED PARSNIP CROQUETTES Peel and chop 1kg parsnips and transfer to a roasting pan. Add 100g diced unsalted butter, 75ml olive oil, 1 tsp chilli flakes, 1 tsp grated nutmeg, 2 tbsp demerara sugar and salt and pepper. Roast in preheated oven at 200°C for 15 minutes until soft and allow to cool. Peel and chop 400g potatoes and boil in salted water until soft. Strain the liquid and allow to cool. Transfer the parsnips and potato to a mixing bowl. Add 3 egg yolks, 150g grated Gruyère cheese, 2 tbsp chopped spring onion and mix thoroughly. Place the mixture in a piping bag and pipe finger-size pieces onto greaseproof paper. Refrigerate to firm up. Roll the fingers in flour, egg and seasoned breadcrums. Deep fry at 180°C until golden or bake in the oven.

apple Although available from early autumn, apples are one of the few homegrown fruits still to be enjoyed at this time of year. More hardy eating apples such as the classic Bramley can be stored well and keep for months to supply you throughout the colder, darker months. They make a wonderful accompaniment to your roast pork or braised with warming spices and served up with red cabbage. Homegrown apples will store for months if unblemished and wrapped in newspaper and stored in a wooden box. The general rule of thumb is the later the apple ripens, the longer it will last.

QUICK APPLE CRUMBLE Peel and core three Granny Smith, two Braeburn and three English Cox apples and cut into equal size chunks (using various apples gives you better texture and depth of flavour). In a large pot bring to the boil 100g sugar, 1 vanilla pod, juice and zest of a lemon, 75g unsalted butter and 50ml water. Once a light caramel has formed, add the diced apples and cook with the lid on until the apples have softened and transfer to an oven-proof dish. In a mixing bowl, crumb together 200g digestive biscuits, 100g toasted nibbed almonds, 50g toasted oats, 100ml honey and 75ml melted butter. Sprinkle topping over the apples and bake in a pre-heated oven at 200°C for 15 min until golden.

> flavour bibury court

bibury court Driving across country towards Bibury, past inviting pubs and over the bubbling River Coln, Polly March felt like she was entering the very heart of England and into ‘the most beautiful village in the Cotswolds’.

As our we swept round into the stunning grounds of Bibury Court, I had an odd sense of homecoming, because, although the Jacobean mansion is breathtakingly grand and imposing, every leaded window seems to twinkle as if in welcome. Bibury offers 18 rooms of varying luxury and standard. We were in Barebone’s, a wonderfully large ‘grand’ room overlooking the vast front lawn with a bed large enough for a family of four and a huge bathtub one could happily get lost in for several hours. Before dinner we enjoyed some drinks in the panelled drawing room, which again, managed to feel homely, despite its magnificence. The bar offers an extensive wine list, and a fantastic array of cocktails and shorts. We chose to sample the hotel’s fine dining menu in The Oak Room, an intimate venue which has been recently revamped. Bibury recently appointed a new head chef, Nigel Godwin, who has been instrumental in changing the dining offer, so that guests can now choose from the adventurous menu of the Oak Room, or the more classic menu of The Brasserie. Either way, you are spoiled for choice, as every dish has such a mouthwatering description on the menu. After much deliberation, I went for the slow cooked Bibury duck egg, chicken oysters, foie gras, celeriac and parsley (£8.95). The egg was huge and exploded a wonderfully thick yolk all over the plate which I greedily mopped up with the delightful home-baked rolls. (The hotel is soon to open its own bakery, and these were a great advert for things to come.) The chicken oysters were breaded, juicy little nuggets, plucked from between the chicken thighs and the rib cage. 12

The whole dish came served on some creamy celeriac which had the optimum balancing effect on the varying textures. My husband plumped for the Loch Duart salmon ‘mi cuit’, avocado, foie gras, walnut soil and apple (£11.95). The avocado was added to the salmon by hand via a whipped cream canister, which gave it a lovely consistency. And although one wouldn’t often think of salmon and apple in the same dish, there was a curious genius to the blend. For the main course I went for the Adlestrop partridge with quinoa, butternut squash and cocoa (£25.95). The partridge was divinely cooked and perfectly complemented firstly by the crunchy and beautifully cooked quinoa grain and then by the wine we were recommended by our knowledgable French waiter - a Château Haut-Bages Averous Pauillac 2001 (£12 per glass), with a lovely full-bodied blackcurranty flavour. My husband once more opted for fish, choosing the John Dory and scallops, on a ‘bolognese of squid’, with local chorizo (£24.95). It was beautifully presented and the scallops were perfectly done with the chunks of soft, moist fish and the delicate flavours wonderfully lifted by the richness of the bolognese. I have to say the desserts were out of this world and there is such an exciting range to choose from, so be prepared to change your mind several times. I was intrigued by the sound of a Snickers brûlée with peanut butter parfait and a cherry jam sandwich (£10.95). And I was not to be disappointed. What arrived was a beautifully presented dish with a perfect little brûlée with nutty chunks that outdid any shop-bought

Snickers I’ve ever eaten. The peanut butter parfait was rich yet smooth with a dollop of raspberry sorbet on top. And the cherry jam sandwich was in fact a layered, homemade sort of Snickers bar, with chocolate, chewy and nutty layers, the jam signified with luscious blobs dotted around the plate. My husband went for the coffee crème, chocolate, granola and mascarpone sorbet (£8.95), with a delectable glass of dessert wine to counteract any bitterness from the coffee. The dessert was an utter triumph, with the added delight of hidden popping candy in the sorbet as well as a beautifully textured coffee crème. We finished off this gastronomic excess with homemade lemon macaroons and coffee (£4.95), back in the drawing room and then it was to bed across the gleaming flagstones and along the winding corridors. Driving away the next day, I felt a huge sense of regret at rejoining the real world, proof if any more was needed, of a wonderful evening spent, where Bibury Court’s initial sense of welcome was echoed in the quiet, non-invasive hospitality of the staff throughout our stay.

Bibury Court Hotel Bibury Cirencester Gloucestershire GL7 5NT 01285 740337 www.biburycourt.co.uk

I have to say the desserts were out of this world and there is such an exciting range to choose from, so be prepared to change your mind several times

The

Ben Abercrombie

OLD INN he Old Inn Restaurant in Holton is a beautiful restaurant and bar just outside Wincanton. Full of character, this 400-year-old coaching inn with log fire and flagstone floors has been restored and brought back to life, while still maintaining its original charm.

Young head chef Ben Abercrombie, 18, has taken up the lead kitchen role at The Old Inn and is cooking up a storm, where his passion and enthusiasm ensure his food is exquisite and unforgettable. Here he cooks us up one of his fabulous recipes. Enjoy…

CONFIT GUINEA FOWL LEG WITH BREAST COOKED OVER THE FIRE, BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH SMOKED BACON AND RED CURRANT JUS. 1 Take 1 confit leg of guinea fowl, season well and cover with duck fat. 2 Cook on a gentle heat for an hour. For the guinea fowl breast grill over the fire for a lovely smoky flavour, but pan frying and crisping up in the oven work just fine. 3 Season breast and cook off in a hot frying pan with a splash of vegetable oil, skin side down. After a few minutes place the breast in the oven at about 190°C and cook for 10 minutes. Once cooked remove from the oven and leave to rest. While resting use the same pan with all the juices and cook a

handful of bacon lardons and red currants. Then de-glaze with stock to provide a mouthwatering sauce to accompany the dish. 4 Stew down one red sliced cabbage and a sliced onion in a deep pan over a high heat with a knob of butter and a good splash of vegetable oil until softened, add 100g sultanas and stir, add 150ml balsamic vinegar and 400ml of red wine and reduce slightly, turning the heat down to a gentle temperature then season with salt and pepper. After about 10 minutes add 150g of soft brown sugar and stir in, then cook for another 10 minutes with a lid

The Old Inn Restaurant, Holton, Nr Wincanton BA9 8AR • 01963 32002 • www.theoldinnrestaurant.co.uk

Flavour editor Nick Gregory goes behind the scenes to find out who does what in the kitchen according to long-held standards…

lost in translation? arlez-vouz Français? Nope, me neither, but to get to grips with the front and back of house in a restaurant you’ll need to brush up on those skills pretty quickly, and that means knowing more than just ‘Garçon!!’ when you’re ready for the bill.

The ‘brigade de cuisine’ is the system of hierarchy found in restaurants, a concept developed by legendary French chef and restaurateur Georges Auguste Escoffier, who, among many other achievements, published Le Guide Culinaire, which is still used as a major reference work, both in the form of a cookbook and a textbook on cooking. Escoffier died on 12 February 1935, but late in the 19th century, in London's Savoy Hotel, he developed the modern brigade system from the structure he learned while serving in the French Army, where he organised the kitchen into a hierarchy of authority, responsibility and function. Like an army, the restaurant has a strict structure with a chain of command – executive chef or chef de cuisine, sous chefs and then chefs de partie responsible for different departments, and then demi-chefs, cooks and commis below them. Of course, not all restaurants have the space, budget

or desire to link in all these ranks and files, but if you hear the terms ‘pâtissier‘ or ‘ploungeur’ from now on, at least you’ll know what they mean! Chef de Cuisine: The head chef or executive chef, responsible for the overall management of the kitchen, supervising staff, creating the menus, buying the produce and training-up apprentices. He or she is the top dog or bitch! Sous Chef (de cuisine): Second in command, the sous chef takes over when the chef de cuisine is unavailable. Watch out for a mutiny, however, as the sous chef often has designs above his station. Chef de partie: This is the senior chef responsible for managing a given station in the kitcken and overseeing the cuisiniers, the cooks delegated to preparing certain dishes. Those that work in a lesser station are commonly referred to as the demi-chefs. They aren’t seen as very important! Commis Chef: Works under a chef de partie to learn the station's responsibilities and operation. This may be a chef who has recently completed culinary training or is still undergoing training.

Pâtissier: Or a pastry chef, is a member of the classic brigade de cuisine in a professional kitchen and is the station chef of the pastry department, skilled in the making of pastries, desserts, breads and other baked goods. Plongeur: Not an esteemed position this one as it involves washing the dishes, often under the guidance of the Marmiton, the pot and pan washer. The plongeur may occasionally, and only if he’s been really good, be entrusted with basic preparatory duties. Other positions of note are the poissonnier (fish man), the confiseur (prepares the petit fours and small candies) and the garçon de cuisine (the kitchen boy), who helps out all the others as and when required. Obviously this structure is not employed in all restaurants and hotels, but it is found in many. Escoffier’s hierarchical structure has stood the test of time and you certainly won’t find many in the know knocking it. And next time you hear noise from the kitchen, it may not necessarily be the chef de cuisine bellowing at the commis, it could be the marmiton wanting to know what the plongeur is up to.

> flavour xxxxxxx

> flavour teen chef

Teen Chef James Underdown, flavour’s 14-year-old budding chef, has been back in the kitchen again this month to serve-up another one of his mouthwatering treats.

Chocolate Mousse Ingredients 170g Milk chocolate 4 Egg whites Teaspoon and a bit of Brandy Cinnamon and nutmeg

Well, since my last installment I’ve had a very foodie month. Firstly, I had one of the best meals I’ve ever had at Woods Restaurant, Bath, and I’ve also started my GCSE catering course. This month’s recipe is one of my all-time favourite deserts - chocolate mousse. It is so simple to make but it tastes amazing! I only use milk chocolate because I find dark too bitter and it just doesn’t taste as graeat, but play around to find what you like best. Also you can add more or less brandy (I do ask my parents don’t worry!), I like the way it compliments the chocolate, but too much overrides the taste (well that’s my opinion).

Method 1 Firstly melt the chocolate over boiling water. In another bowl, whisk up the egg whites until they form soft peaks. 2 Once the eggs are whisked you can now add the brandy and a small amount cinnamon and nutmeg and quickly whisk a tad more. 3 Now pour the melted chocolate and, with a metal spoon, fold in so it’s a chocolaty colour and no white specs left in. Leave in the fridge for a few hours (overnight is best).

Introducing

KINGS ARMS This is Somerset at its very best and for all to enjoy. The preparation of the food is as close to perfect as you can imagine, along with a distinctly fresh taste that brings customers back time and again.

Christmas Party Menu 3 courses £25 per person 2 courses £20 per person

he beautiful Kings Arms in Litton is nestled at the foot of the Mendip Hills and the entrance to the wonderful Chew Valley and it reflects both sophisticated and simple food choices, sourced locally and organically and many bought directly from the farmers themselves. Just sit back in either the historic surroundings of the 591-year-old 14th century pub or move to the contemporary surroundings of the Litton dining restaurant and just soak up the flavours and get lost in the tantalising array of choices.

Taste real Cheddar cheese 12-to-14 months-old and enjoy the beef and lamb born and bred on the Mendips – all fresh, zesty and carefully prepared and a delight to enjoy. The Kings Arms complements all their food with great Wines and Real Ales along with their high levels of service. When the sun shines into the beautiful gardens that cascade gently down to the gurgling and splashing River Chew, everything becomes right with the world.

House Mulled wine on arrival

THE STARTERS • Cup of Winter Broth (v) • Cup of Mushroom soup (v) • House Special baked Soup of the Seas (£3 extra) • Homemade chicken liver pate, grilled bread and gherkins • Kings Scallops with a light leek and mushroom sauce (£5 extra) • Smoked salmon, cucumber and avocado crème fraîche • Slow roasted Golden and red beetroots, feta cheese and Clementine salad (v) THE MAIN COURSES • Roast turkey stuffed with chestnuts and mushrooms • Supreme of duck breast with an orange and port reduction • Slow roast shoulder of Old Spot pork, crackling and apple sauce • Fillet of sea bass in brick pastry on a bed of Julienne vegetables served with light fish sauce • Roast Somerset beef, gravy & fresh horseradish sauce • Wild mushroom tagliatelle, cream of pea and asparagus ALL and shavings of Parmesan (v) IN OU SERVED • Kings Arms nut roast (v) ‘BRINR UNIQUE (All Mains are accompanied with Herb roast FOOD G MORE ’ STYL potatoes, honey roast parsnips & carrots) E THE DESSERTS • Traditional Christmas pudding and brandy butter sauce/custard • Kings Arms banana & cinnamon crepe with a caramel sauce • Somerset apple Charlotte & vanilla custard sauce • Local 14 month mature cheddar, Stilton cheese and Somerset Brie • Litton Surprise, a bit of everything! (extra £3)

This is Somerset at its very best and for all to enjoy. The preparation of the food is as close to perfect as you can imagine, along with a distinctly fresh taste that brings customers back time and again.

Kings Arms Radstock, Litton, Somerset BA3 4PW • Telephone 01761 241301 • www.kingsarmslitton.co.uk

Max Drake is a practising medical herbalist at the Urban Fringe Dispensary, where he also runs courses and workshops teaching how to use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.

the herb doctor S THI TH N MO

fenugreek

enugreek seeds are both hypoglycaemic and hypocholesterolaemic, meaning they can help in regulating blood sugar and in lowering cholesterol levels in the blood, both of which are highly desirable, particularly if you are fond of sugary foods and grains in general.

There is a fibre in the seeds called galactomannan, which is thought to be the main component responsible for these potential health benefits. After eating a carbohydrate-rich meal blood sugar levels increase quite quickly, prompting a release of insulin to bring the levels back down. It is quite common for people to have chronically elevated levels of insulin in the bloodstream because our diets are so carb heavy, and this can lead to a rebound response, where blood sugar levels suddenly drop because there is too much insulin floating around in the system. This is one of the main reasons why people often feel tired 10 or 20 minutes after eating carbs, such as having a baked potato at lunchtime.

Fenugreek can help towards putting this right. A cup of fenugreek tea immediately after a carb-rich meal can help to reduce the rapid rise in blood sugar levels, without stimulating an increase in insulin production. Just put a couple of teaspoons of fenugreek seeds in a pestle and mortar, give them a bit of a bash and then make a tea with them in a small pot, infusing for 10 minutes. Bashing them up a bit first will help to liberate more of the galactomannan. The taste is pretty strange to start with and you may need to play around with the quantities to find a level that suits you, as too much can bring out a bitter aftertaste. Like a lot of these things, once you’ve tried it a few times you get used to it and it actually starts to taste quite nice. Fenugreek is a member of the pea family, and what you’re looking for is a kind of delicate sweetness underneath the more immediate taste sensation.

For more information and references visit: www.urbanfringe.org 18

A quick note about sugar Everyone knows that sugar isn’t very good for us, and all carbohydrates are basically made of sugars. Carbohydrates include anything made from grains – including pasta, pizza, bread and biscuits – as well as starchy root vegetables and potatoes. Virtually all foods that have become part of the human diet since the advent of agriculture are rich in carbohydrates. Sugar seems to be addictive, and when you walk through the average modern supermarket, it seems like 75 per cent of what is on offer is really just a vehicle for delivering sugar. It’s quite an interesting experiment to go for a few weeks without sugars in your diet to see what happens, although it’s not exactly easy to do this, believe me! I’ve set up a website where you can find out a bit more about how to do it, and there’s also some more info and references about fenugreek. www.seriouslystoneage.com

flavour

the Gift Guide

~ See inside for more stunning Devon Driftwood ~

Inspired gift ideas for Christmas

DeVOn DrifTWOOD Extraordinary and unique gifts that are made with natures finest driftwood.

aren Miller is the owner of Devon Driftwood Designs, a wonderful store that sells amazing sculptures and furniture fashioned entirely out of driftwood. Karen started off 11 years ago making driftwood trees out of wood that she found on the beach in her local town of Brixham, Devon. Now people all over the world send her driftwood, and she fashions it into tables, mirrors, shells, gifts and decorations among other things. Karen also sells online. Visit her website to see all of her beautiful designs...

ER READER OFF

F OF R E 15O% D UR OR 11 VOUR G E FLA QUOT ORDERIN N WHE

26 Middle Street, Brixham Devon TQ5 8ER • www.devondriftwooddesigns.com • Telephone 01803 882 850

The Eclipse range of Duiske Kilkenny glassware reflects a modern lifestyle with its elegant, plain design and its exciting colours. Every piece is designed for casual, but stylish dining and the collection would make an ideal Christmas gift. For those who like to be at the cutting-edge of style, Taylor’s Eye Witness six-piece coloured knife set provides both aesthetic pleasure and practicality. It consists of a cook's knife, bread knife, carving knife, utility knife, all-purpose knife and a paring knife all contained within a revolving acrylic knife block. You can further brighten up a kitchen with Judge Cool Casseroles. This range of 22cm casserole dishes in fun and funky colours are as hard wearing as they are striking. Judge Cool make them in a variety of hues including red, Wedgewood blue and sea green. Take this season’s look outside the kitchen with Bodum’s range of portable travel mugs. Made from stainless steel and colourful plastic, these beauties are also available in a whole spectrum of colours.

Park Furnishers are in the know when it comes to trendy yet practical goods, and these amazing gifts are more than simply stocking fillers.

Willway Street, Bedminster, Bristol BS3 4AZ • www.parkfurnishers.co.uk • Telephone 0117 944 9012

park furnishers

or those who like to be a little different, Park Furnishers is offering a variety of quirky and colourful, yet exceptionally stylish kitchenware collections. These are all great gifts for culinary enthusiasts with one eye on chic.

BlueBerry hill B

lueberry Hill produces a range of handmade festive treats. The mini range works perfectly as stocking fillers or can be combined alongside Blueberry Hill’s more traditional items to create a gorgeous hamper. From stars in a jar through to rich traditional Christmas cakes, their range is designed to offer a selection of complementary flavours alongside some great cheeses and wines. Their cakes can also be personalised to make your Christmas gifts even more special. Orders on 2011 gifts will close on Friday, December 16.

From stars in a jar through to rich traditional Christmas cakes, their range is designed to offer a selection of complementary flavours alongside some great cheeses and wines.

Blueberry Hill • Ella Fletcher & Rachel Reynolds 07970 983126 / 07815 852117 • www.blueberryhillcakes.co.uk Follow Blueberry Hill on Twitter: @BHCakes • Like us on Facebook: Blueberry Hill Cakes

lakelanD Lakeland have some fantastic gift ideas this Christmas. Their creative kitchenware and other products are clearly designed to make life easier and more enjoyable

family-owned business, co-run by three brothers Rayner, Lakeland’s humble beginnings started in 1963, when Alan Rayner, father of the afore-mentioned brothers, started selling polythene bags to poultry farmers. Since then, the business has flourished and expanded, mainly to kitchenware, yet maintained the Lakeland ethos of ‘customer service’ throughout. Lakeland have some fantastic gift ideas this Christmas. Their creative kitchenware and other products are clearly designed to make life easier and more enjoyable, whether you're cooking, entertaining, doing the housework or searching for the perfect present. From fun stocking fillers such as their festive silicone mould, which is perfect for making quirky gingerbread men and chocolates, to hampers containing a wealth of delicious, well-chosen products, Lakeland have something for everyone. For those looking to make their home-cooked Christmas dinner as delicious as possible, Lakeland have a whole range of products, including gorgeous glazed terracotta roasters, roast lifting forks, and deluxe basting sets. The products all combine practicality and ease of use with lovely aesthetic qualities, making Lakeland a must on your festive shopping itinerary. In the South West, Lakeland has stores in Bath, Exeter, Taunton and Truro, so you’re never too far from those mustbuys. Alternatively, browse the website for all products, including many on special offer this season.

Orderline 01539 488100 • www.lakeland.co.uk

ChelTenham kiTChener

The DunDry inn

et in beautiful surroundings, The Dundry Inn is a stunning village gastro pub, serving exceptional, seasonal food and drink – on an everchanging menu – in a warm, welcoming and cozy environment. And if it's not on the menu, just ask. The Dundry Inn is happy to receive requests for dishes to suit.

heltenham Kitchener provides a fantastic range of essential items for your Christmas preparations, as well as some really lovely gift ideas. They stock traditional mixing bowls and pudding basins, as well as all the tools for you to prepare an exquisite Christmas dinner.

Three snug restaurant areas provide the perfect setting for the fantastic quality food on the menu. Dundry Inn is now offering gift vouchers, in multiples of £10. These make the perfect gift for loved ones, or just a thank you to someone special.

For thoughtful gifts, choose from a whole range of knife sets, bakeware and Kitchenaid mixers, or cookie cutters for kids. New to Cheltenham Kitchener is their sugar craft and cake-decorating department – give your Christmas cake a dazzling finish.

This charming pub is open throughout the festive period and offers a delicious threecourse menu for £24.95, or a seven-course menu on Christmas Day for £70 per head.

Quote ‘flavour’ in-store or online for a festive 5% discount on your order.

Visit The Dundry Inn and see just why it is the place to eat in Bristol and experience for yourself why their motto is to provide a 'service standard always aiming to exceed expectations'.

4 Queens Circus, Cheltenham, GL50 1RX Telephone 01242 235688 • www.kitchenercookware.com

Church Road, Bristol, Avon BS41 8LH Telephone 0117 964 1722 • www.dundryinn.co.uk

lyme Bay Winery

f you’re hunting for a delicious treat to curl up with as the evenings draw in, look no further than the huge selection of Lyme Bay Winery drinks, including country wines, liqueurs and ciders. The difficulty is making a choice – should you try the double award-winning Ginger wine, the mellow Sloe wine or the wonderfully fruity Blackberry? For that after dinner festive tipple, Lyme Bay Winery have created some beautifully packaged liqueurs which make versatile presents for all occasions – if you can bear to give them away. Try the award-winning Whisky Ginger – smooth and warming, reminiscent of a whisky mac – or a Blueberry Liqueur, a new take on an old favourite.

Lyme Bay Winery are first and foremost great innovators, taking the processes of winemaking and adapting them in a quintessentially English way.

For those who are feeling the cold pinch of winter, warm the cockles of your heart with Lyme Bay’s comforting mulled range; a delicious selection of wines finely spiced with orange, cinnamon and cloves.

The Lyme Bay Winery • www.lymebaywinery.co.uk • Telephone 01296 551355

Thinking of a Christmas gift with a difference? Then this little bundle of treats is the perfect festive offering...

hey say it's the thought that counts. This year make sure it really counts with 'His and Hers' festive hampers from Hotel du Vin & Bistro Cheltenham. For the ladies the hamper includes a bottle of expertly-selected Hotel du Vin Champagne and an Espa gift set. The hamper also includes two tickets to a cooking demonstration with Head Chef Paul Mottram on Thursday, January 12 from 10.30am to 2.00pm. The demonstration includes Chef's selection of dishes for a starter, main course and dessert, all created using seasonal homegrown and local produce. The demonstration concludes with a three-course lunch and a glass of wine with Chef.

hOTel DuVin & BisTrO Cheltenham

'His' hamper contains treats such as a Romeo y Julietta Number 1 Cigar, a bottle of Cheltenham Special pale ale, a bottle of special premium ale from Battledown Brewery and two tickets to the Battledown Beer Dinner on Thursday, January 19, which consists of four courses with ales to match. For a gift that brings treats and memorable experiences together for only £125, think Hotel du Vin & Bistro Cheltenham.

Parabola Road, Cheltenham, GL50 3AQ • www.hotelduvin.com/hotels/cheltenham • Telephone 01242 588450

elizaBeTh E shaW

lizabeth Shaw is one of the UK’s longest-established and best-loved chocolate brands, and is famous for its timeless classics, such as the iconic Chocolate Mint Crisp, and Famous Names Liqueurs.

The company also has a whole range of delicious and contemporary flavours, such as Milk Chocolate Butterscotch and Dark Chocolate Caramel, all with Elizabeth Shaw’s melt in the mouth honeycomb crisp. With so many moreish options on offer, you certainly won’t be disappointed.

Perfect for a Christmas gift, Elizabeth Shaw’s Mint Collection could be just the thing - a sophisticated selection of dark and milk chocolates, infused with their own specially-selected mint oil, and with a gorgeous decorative seal around the pack, this makes the perfect pressie.

Elizabeth Shaw is most certainly one of the premier confectioners this country has, don’t miss out on the gorgeous treats they have on offer.

For an alternative festive surprise, you simply must try their renowned Famous Names Liqueur chocolates, now also available in a super large pack, a must for any liqueur lover! Featuring deliciously smooth liqueur centres encased in rich dark chocolate, these classic chocolates are made to a unique recipe, giving you a luxurious experience every time.

12 Becket Court, Pucklechurch, Bristol, BS16 9QG • www.elizabethshaw.co.uk • Telephone 01179 371 200

Orange Tree

vailable this Christmas online or instore from Orange Tree, an award-winning retailer based at Darts Farm near Exeter, Grace Elephant is a captivating twist on the traditional soft toy. She’s made from premium fabrics and is weighted so she poses, flops and cuddles perfectly. At around 50cm high she even makes the perfect cushion or doorstop!

peBBleBeD ~ aDOpT aVine ~

• Your name on a vine in one of our Pebblebed Vineyards for a year

Orange Tree has previously won Best Independent Retailer in the South West and Wales and Best Retail Initiative at The Greats Retail Awards.

• Follow the vine through the growing year with email photos of your adopted vine together with our newsletter • A bottle of our Pebblebed wine • Vineyard tour and tasting for two people. Come and see your adopted vine • One years membership of Friends of Pebblebed which gives 10% off any wine purchases and invites to vineyard events

Visit Orange Tree for handpicked gifts, decorations, beauty, fashion and unique interior pieces. Orange Tree, Darts Farm, Topsham, Devon EX3 0QH Telephone 01392 876688 • www.theorangetree.co.uk

JOn ThOrner’s

• Costs only £45.00

www.pebblebed.co.uk

ometimes finding the perfect Christmas present for food lovers can be difficult, but Jon Thorner’s of Shepton Mallet offer a fantastic solution: personalise a beautiful wicker or faux leather hamper by choosing from their delectable range of Somerset cheeses, locally produced chutneys and sauces, award-winning chocolates and speciality savoury treats - and have them wrapped for that extra ‘wow’ factor. You could please even the most discerning connoisseur with the wonderful range of regional wines, spirits, mead and cider they have to offer, which can be presented beautifully in hessian bags, along with complementary accompaniments.

Jon Thorner’s remain a most reputable business, whose ties to local suppliers and farmers stand them in an excellent position to provide you with the very best cuisine for the festive season.

For the ultimate foodie gift, choose the Jon Thorner’s Fresh Luxury Hamper, which contains everything you need for the perfect three-course Christmas feast. This contains a three bird roast; free range ham; Scottish smoked salmon; homemade terrine; pork chipolatas; cranberry sauce; bread sauce; award-winning Christmas pudding; homemade brandy butter; organic cheese truckle; Tuxford & Tebbit Stilton, chutney and a savoury biscuit selection – all for just £99.95. The Fresh Luxury Hamper serves four, and is guaranteed to delight.

Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop, Pylle, Shepton Mallet, Somerset BA4 6TA • www.jonthorners.co.uk • Telephone 01749 830138

TheVillage pOTTery A

dd an individual quirk to your Christmas gift list this year. The Village Pottery, Clifton, can personalise anything from mugs to boiled egg and soldier plates. Choose from a variety of glazes to suit your style.

Each item is lovingly hand-thrown by Jen on the potter’s wheel!

Each item is lovingly hand-thrown on the potter’s wheel so please allow time for Jen to make your order. If you would rather get mucky yourself then why not give a pottery lesson as a gift? Check out our new range, Beeline Ceramics, raising awareness of the threat to bees. Available in Lavender, Poppy or Echinacea. Email Jen with any questions: jen@thevillagepottery.co.uk

70 Princess Victoria St, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4DD

teapigs

The teapigs range is really rather exciting and diverse; there’s something for everyone.

ER READER F F O

F OF ER 20O% D R O UR Y

s winter draws in, the cold winds howl and the frost is biting, there are few things more comforting than nestling up with a nice warm cuppa. And not just any old cuppa either: teapigs tea is made from only the very best whole leaves, berries and flowers – not that dusty stuff found in regular teabags. teapigs tea is presented to you in special tea ‘temples’ – a roomy mesh bag that gives the leaves plenty of room to

infuse – so you get a great tasting cup of tea. As a stocking filler for tea aficionados, teapigs teas will more than satisfy even the most demanding connoisseurs of the exalted leaf. Their range is really rather exciting and diverse; there’s something for everyone. You’ll find all the classics like English Breakfast, Darjeeling Earl Grey

Telephone 0208 568 1313 • www.teapigs.co.uk

V11 E FLA * QUOT DERING R O N WHE

*(valid until 30th Nov 2011, excludes cheeky deals and gifts)

01179 734343 www.thevillagepottery.co.uk

(for your more traditional friends), a special Spiced Winter Red Tea for a bit of festive spirit, and for your more adventurous compadres, a Chilli Chai and even a Chocolate Flake tea. teapigs also do some funky teaware, gadgets and gifts for those tea nuts in your life (we all have at least one). Teapigs, 1 The Old Pumping Station, Pump Alley, Brentford TW8 0AP

Indulgence Café is a charming destination, and the cakes and pastries there are sublime, making it a must-visit for any Christmas shopper.

eplacing what was formerly Bath Deli in Bathwick St, Bath, is a new venture led by South African pastry chef Katherine Small. The premises have been re-launched as Indulgence Café, and the tasty treats on offer there certainly live up to its name!

After working for more than ten years in the restaurant industry in both the UK and South Africa, Katherine has always dreamed of opening her own patisserie. That dream has been realised, and very well indeed. Katherine and her youthful team make everything on site, with the best local ingredients sourced from local quality suppliers. In Indulgence Café, Katherine has created a place where customers feel comfortable, and can enjoy delicious, freshly baked products in a relaxed and homely atmosphere.

She has quickly gained the support of the local community, and as word spreads around like wildfire, customers from further afield are coming to sample the home-baked delights at Indulgence Café. The café stock a wide range of homemade and packaged products, such as preserves, biscuits, meringues, biscotti, as well as many delightful festive gifts which will available soon. They also provide a selection of freshly prepared sandwiches on a variety of freshly baked breads and rolls, savoury tarts, pies, daily soup and salad specials. There is an office catering service for fresh products to be delivered to your workplace as well as bespoke cakes prepared for any special occasion.

inDulgenCe Café 31 Bathwick Street, Bath BA2 6NZ • www.facebook.com/pages/indulgence-cafe. • Telephone 01225 316265

enigma

pOTTery

ucked away at the top of Vicarage Street in the artisan town of Frome, you will find Enigma Pottery, a gallery shop that holds an Aladdin's cave of ceramics created by Jenny Barton. Just ask, and Jenny will take you through to the beautiful walled garden to visit the studio where she works and where you can newly discover your inner creativity. Some special gifts to look out for include; studio tableware made to order in a range of colours and textures and high fired to be dishwasher proof; romantic heart bowls and mugs, hand-modelled flowers, soap dishes and heart shaped trinkets; personalised logos, hand-carved and added to a range of products; and garden sculptures including fairies with attitude – secretly smoking or drinking – available to discover in the studio garden alongside the bird baths and garden pots.

Enigma Pottery, a gallery shop that holds an Aladdin's cave of ceramics created by Jenny Barton 15 Vicarage Street, Frome BA11 1PX • www.enigmapottery.co.uk • Telephone 01373 452079

grasse

Grasse provides some really thoughtful Christmas gift ideas; donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out when choosing for your loved ones this winter.

Grasse provides some really thoughtful Christmas gift ideas; donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out when choosing for your loved ones this winter. 3 Argyle Street, Bath BA2 4BA Telephone 01225 444260 www.grasse.me.uk

fOODWOrks COOkery sChOOl

rasse is a lovely boutique shop in Bath specialising in distinctive luxury products for the home and garden, many of them handmade and recycled. Grasse, named after the southern French town, also stocks a selection of bespoke and antique items. There is a range of truly tempting skincare products, along with some wonderful organic candles and room mists. Grasse is now a stockist of Le Chameau wellies and accessories.

CHRISTMAS GIFT VOUCHERS A perfect way to indulge someone's love of food, from complete beginners to advanced cooks CHALET, YACHT AND GAP YEAR COURSES 2012 The Foodworks cookery school provides professional tuition in a relaxed atmosphere offering everything from day courses to residential training, private hire to corporate entertaining.

For further information and a list of all our courses please check out our website www.foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk or call us on 01242 870538

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

the

seasonal stockpile t’s that time of year again when we’re all desperately racking our brains as to what to buy our loved ones. Hopefully the Christmas gift guide in flavour this month will help you out if you’ve drawn a blank. However, for a different approach, why not try some premium spirits or Champagne as a gift? Working in the trade I’m a bit biased on this score, but it’s always a winner for me! Here’s some suggestions for a range of different products, with some stockists for you to try a sample for yourself first, just as research of course…

I’ll start with one of my favourite Champagnes – Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve. If you love the strong biscuity flavour of vintage Champagnes, this is the nonvintage for you. Aged for four years to get its rich flavour, it’s not surprising it’s won ‘wine of the year’ in two awards already this year. You can buy a bottle as a gift from Waitrose at £32, or if you fancy sampling yourself first head to Hermanos in Clifton, Bristol, where it’s a very reasonable £45. You may find me in there working my way through their stocks! www.hermanos.co.uk

Moving up the price ladder a notch, here’s one of the most elite Champagnes on the market - the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque. With its beautiful Art Nouveau anemone bottle designed by Emile Galle, it’s also one of the most iconic. Waitrose helps us out again as a stockist, with a gift pack priced at £90. It just doesn’t seem fair to give away a Champagne this good without knowing what it tastes like yourself, so you can indulge yourself at Lainston House Hotel, a gorgeous 17th-century country house in Winchester. Maybe one to combine with one of their fantastic Christmas break packages? www.lainstonhouse.co.uk

Fabulous as Champagne is, in the colder months I’m equally drawn to my spirits cupboard where there are some wonderful winter warmers lurking. A bottle of spirits – particularly at the more premium end – makes a gift with real ‘wow’ factor – so good perhaps, that you might be rewarded with a little sample yourself. Martell XO is one of the best Cognacs around – fact. XO stands for Extra Old, if you were wondering, aged for a minimum of six years but usually over 20. Gingerbread, dried fruits and orange marmalade flavours – perfect for Christmas time, with a stunning arched bottle to match. You can find at www.thedrinkshop.com for £110, or, if that’s a little steep, the Cordon Bleu at £81 on www.thewhiskyexchange.com Pricey, but you certainly get what you pay for. I highly recommend a couple of glasses at Pennyhill Park Hotel and Spa in Surrey before you take the plunge on the bottle. www.pennyhillpark.co.uk

> flavour clare morris

And, one final product for those of you who are not so fond of dark spirits, or maybe something extra for those of you who are – Grey Goose vodka. With a fivestep distillation process and the prestigious title of ‘the world’s best tasting vodka’, it’s worth a try to see if you agree. After all those heavy, winter digestifs, give your tastebuds a refreshing alternative and mix yourself a festive cocktail. Grey Goose adds an extra touch of finesse as your base spirit, and I think you’ll be surprised how easily even the least bartenderlike amongst you can pull off a sleek, professional looking (yes, and tasting!) cocktail. You’ll find Grey Goose at Waitrose for £33, or I can highly recommend sampling at Buddha Lounge in Southampton, looking out on the roof terrace. www.the-buddha-lounge.com

Here’s a winterflavoured cocktail suggestion to get you started:

the flaming black stud It wouldn’t do to have a Christmas list without a bottle of whiskey nestling in there, and a pretty special one at that. The Balvenie Single Barrel, aged 15 years, is a wonderfully complex aged malt. I love the tasting note on its website which I think does it perfect justice ‘a honeyed maltiness with vanilla, oak and delicate spice’. As a single barrel product (literally, drawn from one barrel – not blended with another) there will be slight variations from batch to batch. An excuse, in my opinion, for further research to learn to spot the difference. Our friends www.thewhiskyexchange.com can help us out here at £48, or you can put your tastebuds to the test at the secluded Berwick Lodge Hotel, nestled away just a couple of minutes from the M4 and M5 near Bristol. It has its own helipad in case you want to arrive in style… www.berwicklodge.co.uk

Here’s another single barrel (bourbon) whiskey although a total taste contrast to the Balvenie - this time for all the Jack Daniel’s lovers out there. There are certainly plenty of them! At Jack Daniel’s the smoothest and most intensely-flavoured barrels are set aside to mature further, with extra flavours of toasted oak, caramel and vanilla. Again, each bottle and each barrel are unique, carrying the rick number, barrel number and bottling date - this uniqueness in itself making a great gift. Available at selected Sainsbury’s (and online) for £37, or savour a glass at Smokin’ Aces cocktail bar and whiskey lounge in Bournemouth. I’m a big fan of the quote on their website: ‘there is no solace for the soul, no tonic for the body, like old bourbon whiskey.’ I couldn’t agree more. www.smokin-aces.co.uk

Ingrediants 50ml Grey Goose vodka 25ml blackberry purée 10ml Grand Marnier 10ml lemon juice 1 barspoon balsamic gomme (half gomme, half aged balsamic) Method Shake all ingredients with ice and strain. Garnish with a flamed orange peel and a single blackberry. Enjoy!

Ring O’ Bells

At the foot of the Mendips between Chew Valley and Blagdon Lakes, the Ring O' Bells nestles 10 miles to the south of Bristol and Bath, equidistant to them both, on the main A368. Butcombe Brewery's oldest owned pub has recently undergone a major faceli, helping to give a new polish to an old classic. e pub retains its traditional feel however, and great wooden beams straddle the ceiling of the warm and inviting bar. A great range of continental lagers and Butcombe ales are available, and the staﬀ are warm and welcoming. A lovely destination pub, e Ring O’ Bells is certainly worth a visit! Ring O’ Bells ~ Compton Martin ~ Bristol BS40 6JE Telephone: 01761 221284 www.ringobellscompton.butcombe.com

Visit the new website: www.edelishop.co.uk

BOUGHT, BORROWED & STOLEN

Some women collect shoes - Allegra collects knives! “This is the first cookbook I’ve written that isn’t about recipes that I’ve come up with: instead it’s a book of special things I’ve eaten all over the world that moved me, and that I’ve recreated using my notes and taste memory. Wherever you are in the world, there’s no better way of giving people joy than by handing them a plate of food made with love …and watching them love it too.”

Allegra McEvedy

As a professional chef, Allegra McEvedy has developed a healthy admiration for the tools of her trade, and it became her quest to search for a knife that reflected the country she was currently eating in. From each of 20 countries, Allegra has chosen the absolute best of what she ate there - flavours that engrained themselves in her food memory and are what she calls “knock-your-socks-off yum.” We have selected a few that we think will tickle your tastebuds and leave you wanting more…

CONFIT SALMON IN GINGER JUICE (Pictured on previous page)

Purity is an important part of Japanese culture, and the cleanliness of this dish reflects that. We eat porridge for breakfast and they eat salmon, ginger and salty soy: ours is for the energy levels, but this, first thing in the morning, definitely feels like brain food.

Ingredients Around 600ml rapeseed/light olive oil/grapeseed oil (or enough to submerge your salmon pieces) 300g piece of salmon, from the head end, skin on and pinboned 150g/5oz ginger, washed and peel left on 2 tablespoons sake 2 tablespoons mirin 1 tablespoon light soy sauce A small handful of alfalfa sprouts ½ punnet of mustard cress 50g salmon eggs Method 1 Warm the oil in a shallow pan/small frying pan (about 20cm/8 inches across) over a medium heat: you’re looking for the point at which a corner of bread fizzles with small bubbles but nothing explosive happens when you drop it in. From there turn the oil down a bit and wait a couple of minutes so that the temperature stabilises (for those with thermometers, it’ll be around 110°C/230°F). 2 Halve the salmon along both axes to make 4 squarish blocks, then slide them into the oil, skin-side down. They should sink and bubble gently but you don’t want them to colour at all. Cook for 3 minutes, then gently lift them out and drain on kitchen paper. 3 Using the big holes, grate the ginger into a bowl. Pick up half of it, squeeze the fibres over a little bowl to extract the juice, and once you’ve squeezed the life out of it do the same with the other half – it should produce 3-4 tablespoons of juice (you can keep the squeezed solids to make tea/toddies). Mix the ginger juice with the sake, mirin and soy. 4 When the salmon has cooled to room temperature, peel off the skin. Spoon the sauce onto 4 plates, and put a piece of fish on each. Mix together the alfalfa and mustard cress, and put a small pile onto each of the fish pieces. Share the salmon eggs between the 4 plates and serve the whole thing at room temperature.

BRUNCH HASH is, or something like it but a bit greasier, was the ﬁrst thing I ate when I went on my illegal job-hunting mission to New York in this tiny joint on Second Avenue. is is one of the yummiest brunch dishes out there: such a quick and easy cook – I dare you to make a hash of it!

BOUGHT, BORROWED & STOLEN By Allegra McEvedy Published by Conran Octopus, £25

Serves 4 Ingredients 500g potatoes (ie 2 large ones), diced 3 tablespoons light oil 2 tablespoons butter 2 onions, diced 2.5cm square 4 really thick slices of salt beef*, weighing about 75g each, large diced or roughly broken into big pieces 1-2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, to taste A big handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped 4 medium, cooked beetroot (about 200g), diced 4 spring onions, sliced 4 eggs A good pinch of chilli flakes Salt and pepper

is is one of my all-time favourite tapas – the saltiness of the ﬁsh, the creaminess om the mash and the slight piquancy of the peppers all come together perfectly in every bite. As with most tapas, these are great party food, but I’ve also done a couple with a bit of rocket as a damn ﬁne starter.

PIQUILLO PEPPERS STUFFED WITH BRANDADA DE BACALAO Makes 16ish

Method

Ingredients 175g salt cod 400g mashing potatoes, peeled 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 small shallots (or 1 banana shallot), finely sliced 2–3 cloves of garlic, minced 2 pinches of smoked paprika, preferably the hot one but sweet will do 3 tablespoons double cream A squeeze of lemon, if you fancy it A tin or jar of piquillo peppers with at least 16 pieces in it, drained pepper

1 Soak the salt cod overnight, changing the water a few times. Next day, first get your mash going: quarter the spuds into cold salted water, bring to the boil, simmer until tender, then drain. While the spuds are going, lift the cod out of the water, pick/cut out any bones and peel off the skin, then roughly chop the flesh. 2 Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Heat the oil in a medium-sized frying pan and fry the cod, shallots, garlic and smoked paprika for a few minutes until the cod is opaque and the shallots have softened, then turn the heat off. 3 Once the spuds are well drained mash them into the cod with the cream. Season well with pepper and a squeeze of lemon, and let the mix cool a little by spreading it out on a plate. Stuff the peppers, put them on a small, baking tray, then brush them lightly all over with water. 4 Bake in the oven for 10ish minutes until hot but not collapsing; you can give them a splash of extra virgin olive oil when they come out of the oven if you want, but in Spain they are usually served matt.

Method 1 Cover the potatoes with cold salted water, put on a high heat and bring to the boil, then simmer until they are almost tender and drain. While the spuds are cooking, heat half the oil with half the butter in a large, heavy pan and fry the onions over a medium heat until they are softening and starting to brown. 2 Chuck in the drained potatoes, add the rest of the oil, turn the heat up to maximum, and fry for a few more minutes, until the potatoes are just starting to pick up some colour. 3 Season, stir in the beef, mustard and parsley and lastly add the beetroot, turning it in carefully so as to avoid everything going pink. Once the beetroot is warm – just a minute or two – turn the heat off and stir in the spring onions. 4 Fry the eggs in the rest of the butter, then season and sprinkle with chilli flakes. Divide the hash into 4 portions and put an egg on top of each. 33

LOBSTER SPAGHETTINI e best start to a New Year I’ve ever had: 1 January, sitting in the Campo Santo Stefano in Venice eating this dish in the sunshine. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so set up for the year to come.

Serves 4 as a starter Ingredients 1 live lobster (weighing about 600g) A knob of butter Extra virgin olive oil 150g dried spaghettini 75ml double cream A small handful of tarragon, finely chopped A large handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped A small squeeze of lemon Salt and pepper

For the stock 200g shell-on North Atlantic prawns, raw or cooked A splash of sunflower oil or other light oil ½ an onion, cut in half again A few cloves of garlic, unpeeled 3 tomatoes Mixed stock vegetables (carrots, celery, fennel, mushrooms, parsley, bay leaves etc), roughly chopped

Method 1 To make the stock, first whiz the prawns in a food processor for a couple of moments to break them up a bit. Fry them in oil over a high heat for a few minutes, then add the onion, garlic, tomatoes and the mixed stock vegetables. Stir together until the vegetables have warmed up, and then cover with water – about 1 litre/ 1¾ pints. Put a lid on the pan, bring to the boil, then turn the heat right down, tilt the lid so the pan is only half covered, and let it gently bubble for 30 minutes whilst you amuse yourself elsewhere. 2 Once it’s cooked, drain the stock into a bowl, and really push down on the solids using the back of a ladle so that all the goodness is squeezed out. Pour the liquid back into the pan and boil until reduced by about two-thirds, giving it a good skim along the way. 3 Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil. Put in the chilled, knocked-out lobster and boil it for 10 minutes. Fish it out, keeping the water, and leave the lobster to cool. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Bring the pan of water you used to cook the lobster back to the boil, with a big pinch of salt and a dash of olive oil; keep the lid on. 4 Boil the spaghettini in the lobster water until just al dente, then drain and cover. As the pasta is cooking, lay the lobster on its back and use a long sharp knife to split it into two lengthwise. Crack the claws with the back of the knife, put on to a baking tray and spread the butter on the lobster flesh. Put the empty pasta pan straight back on the heat and when it is really hot pour in the prawn stock (helps double-time reducing). Bring to a rapid simmer, add the cream and seasoning, and let it bubble until it is a sauce-like consistency. 5 While the sauce is reducing, cover the lobster with foil and reheat in the oven (10 minutes). When you are ready to serve, stir the cooked pasta, tarragon, parsley and seasoning into the sauce. Finish with a squeeze of lemon. Plate the lobster and, like the presentation I had in Venice, use tongs to drape the pasta over and around the lobster’s body.

> flavour allegra mcevedy

35-41_FLSW_WeddingSupplement.e$S:Layout 1 25/10/2011 22:16 Page 35

Now that all your summer marriage proposals have hopefully been accepted, you may want to start thinking about where to hold that special day. Well, we've done the hard work for you and put together some fantastic venues to make the big moment in your life just perfect...

Wedding guide flavour in association with

The Antrobus Arms Hotel

s you enter the hotel the ambience is perfect, the greeting warm, sincere and caring and you will know that in choosing the Antrobus Arms Hotel for your wedding celebrations you will have made the right choice. For a day full of happy memories the professional team will help and guide you to ensure that your special day is a day to remember, a day to cherish for you and your family throughout your lives.

Making special da even m ys ore special!

Antrobus

Arms Hotel

As a licensed wedding venue the hotel is justifiably proud to be able to offer a package for your wedding to suit all tastes and budgets. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s their aim to help and advise on every detail from your ceremony, the wedding breakfast and your evening function to ensure you both have the freedom to enjoy your special day. Every wedding is different, but the Antrobus Arms Hotel offers individual care and attention to ensure your day is how you would like it to be â&#x20AC;&#x201C; tailor made to your requirements.

15 Church Street Amesbury Salisbury Wiltshire SP4 7EU 01980 623163 www.antrobusarmshotel.co.uk

Cotswold 88 A

late Palladian house which has been altered over the decades by a variety of architects including arts and crafts impresario Detmar Blow.

Cotswolds88hotel is set in the chocolate box village of Painswick, with easy access to the nearby towns of Cheltenham, Cirencester and Gloucester and only 40 minutes from Bath. Resting on an ancient Roman site, the 18th-century classical mansion is a spectacular example of a

Cotswolds88hotel provides a truly idyllic setting for your wedding or honeymoon with its stunning location and panoramic views across the Cotswold Hills. Every ceremony is bespoke and catered towards your every need. Believing that no two weddings should be the same, Cotswolds88hotel ensures every aspect should reflect the couple themselves, tailoring to every budget. Cotswolds88hotel can offer you and

omantics are invited to make the most important commitment of their lives at Cotswolds88hotel. With a full licence for wedding services, couples can share their day with up to 100 special friends and family as they exchange vows.

your guests a menu based around your favourite dishes. Choose between a pre-order system or a more traditional wedding menu, where you and your guests all eat the same. You will have a dedicated wedding planner from the start of your booking up to and including your big day. The idea is to take all the pressures away from organising the details. Weddings from this bespoke hotel have been featured in some of the best magazines in the country and worldwide, so you can relax and enjoy the experience knowing you are in good hands.

ituated in the heart of the Cabot Circus development in the centre of Bristol, Bakers and Cutlers Halls date back to the 13th century and the Grade One listed Halls provide a wonderful and unique venue for your special day. Each room retains the original features from the period and provides a stunning backdrop to any occasion. Whether your wedding is a small, private affair or a large celebration with all of your friends and family, Bakers and Cutlers Halls provide the perfect location.

As you would expect from a venue inspired by Raymond Blanc’s passion and creativity, food is at the heart of any celebration, and they can offer a meal to suit any budget. From Champagne and canapé receptions and buffets, to a three-course meal all chosen by you from the interactive menu, to the spectacular French classic croque-en-bouche wedding cake, at Bakers and Cutlers they can provide it all. They believe that each wedding is as individual as the couple itself. The emphasis is on providing a personal service to each couple, with the dedicated staff taking you through each stage of your big day – from the ceremony and wedding breakfast through to your evening celebrations. Whatever your dreams, Bakers and Cutlers provide the perfect blank canvas from which to start.

Blanc Events Bakers & Cutlers Halls Friary Building Quakers Friars Cabot Circus Bristol BS1 3DF 01179 102412 www.blancevents.com 35

Priston Mill

n the most important day of your life, where you choose to spend it is the most important thing to consider, after who you choose to spend it with! A winter wedding at Priston Mill is a fairytale dream come true: Two ancient venues steeped in history are seated amidst marvellous landscaped gardens; whether draped in frost, mist or snow, the gardens provide the perfect backdrop for those all-important wedding photographs. Tythe Barn is a majestic locale for the larger wedding party, and more intimate events can be held at the charming Watermill, which has been around since before Doomsday. Priston Mill is situated just outside the medieval village of Priston, only a few miles from Bristol and Bath, and the organisers can assist in helping you find local accommodation for your guests, as well as giving advice on wedding cars, photographers, florists and entertainment.

Priston Mill Priston Bath BA2 9EQ 01225 423894 www.pristonmill.co.uk

Pristonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team of first class chefs can cater for all types of occasion. There are several set menus to choose from for your nuptial meal, including the decadent menu Avalon, and a lighter finger buffet evening menu. Alternatively, why not tailor the menu yourself? The team are happy to help, and you could find yourselves feasting on a medieval winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s banquet or anything else that takes your imagination. A wedding at Priston Mill is simply magical, and a day that neither happy bride nor groom are ever likely to forget.

Woodlands Castle

oodlands Castle is a fairytale venue for the perfect winter wedding. Situated in 12 acres of private grounds surrounded by woodland, the house is a secluded haven; yet is just minutes from Taunton town centre. The castle also sits near junction 25 of the M5, providing a central meeting point between Exeter and Bristol. Woodlands Castle was built in 1810, and was remodelled and enlarged by renowned architect Richard Carver around 1833. Originally a farmhouse, Woodlands is far more elaborate than you would expect from a late 18th century building.

With its picturesque faĂ§ade in the then fashionable pseudo-Tudor style and its planted pleasure ground it seems that it was to be a stately home, designed for public appearance and private pleasure, rather then mere accommodation. For weddings and other private functions the house is exclusively yours for the duration of your stay. Woodlands try to be as flexible as

possible, so whether you want tea and cakes on the lawn or a live band in the Orchard Suite, the house and grounds are available for you and your guests to use however you wish. It's your day, so the dedicated team aim to create an event that is as individual as you are.

For special arrangements, Woodlands Castle has a whole host of recommended suppliers they can help get in contact with. Whether it be limo hire, fireworks or a bouncy castle you want, they are guaranteed to provide the level of service you would expect.

Woodlands Castle is licensed for civil ceremonies and can offer exclusive hire, so you can build your own package and control your own budgets. Alternatively, set packages are available, and can include everything from welcome drinks and wine to table centres and 3 course-meals. For larger numbers there is lawn space for marquees, which can be organised at no extra cost. For Christmas weddings, Woodlands Castle offers some fantastic deals; contact them to make arrangements.

A winter wonderland awaits lucky couples at Woodland Castle, book now for the most important day of your life.

There is a great catering team at Woodlands, that pride themselves on providing excellent, reasonably priced, locally sourced, food to suit your tastes. With over thirty set menu's to choose from there is something to suit everyone, or create your own menu and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll price it for you.

Woodlands Castle Ruishton Taunton Somerset TA3 5LU 01823 444955 www.woodlandscastle.co.uk

Charingworth Manor

haringworth Manor is a Cotswold manor house dating from the 14th century. Built of mellow Cotswold stone, every corner exudes character and quality. There are roaring log fires, ancient beams, flagstoned floors and a wealth of antique furniture. There can be no more romantic place in which to make a lifelong commitment to the one you love. The largest of the wedding suites, The Long Room, comfortably accommodates up to 85 guests; although up to 200 guests can be catered for in marquees. For smaller, more intimate celebrations there are two further rooms each with its own distinctive furnishing and decor.

Charingworth Manor is wellknown for its superb dining and has been rosetted by the AA. The chefs make full use of the fine array of local produce and can craft a menu that will suit your budget as well as your palate! Finally, a mention for the hard working Charingworth team! From the moment you make your first enquiry until your last guest has departed, you will find them professional, enthusiastic and brimming over with ideas to make your day special! In short, they will do everything possible to ensure your celebration lives up to your expectations and on the day itself they will take care of every last detail, leaving you completely free to enjoy every moment to the full. Charingworth Manor Chipping Campden Gloucester GL55 6NS 01386 593555 www.classiclodges.co.uk/charingworthmanor

Truly, a celebration at Charingworth Manor is a magical occasion full of memorable moments that will provide happy memories for many years to come.

StantonHouse

verlooking Stanton Lake and set amongst beautiful gardens, Stanton House offers a picture perfect venue for your wedding. This Cotswold stonehouse is located only ten minutes drive from Swindon, and so is also conveniently located for Stonehenge, Bath and Oxford. The dedicated wedding coordinators at Stanton House will guide you through every step of the preparations, to ensure that your day is as perfect as it should be and that all your individual needs are catered for. Stanton House has four rooms licensed to hold civil wedding ceremonies for up to 80 guests, the specially designed menus can cater for all tastes and budgets, and drinks packages can be adapted to suit your individual requirements. Evening receptions for up to 120 guests can be held in the Lilac Room, which has its own bar and dance floor, and a Marquee can be added if higher numbers are required. With views over Stanton Park, the Swan and Cotswold rooms have four-poster beds and luxurious bathrooms to ensure your stay is peaceful and relaxing. The Swan Room also boasts views over Stanton Lake from its own balcony. Your guests will be just as impressed with one of their 82 en-suite bedrooms, each boasting dĂŠcor and furnishings in keeping with the original features of the historic building. Stanton House is one-of-a-kind: Make your wedding day truly magical in this stunning and unique country locale.

Stanton House Hotel The Avenue Stanton Fitzwarren Swindon SN6 7SD 0870 084 1388 weddings@stantonhouse.co.uk www.stantonhouse.co.uk

> flavour christchurch harbour hotel

christchurch harbour hotel With autumn becoming an increasingly popular time for a low-season weekend break, this month Holly Aurelius-Haddock does the seaside in style…

My daily commute takes me past a local hairdresser whose window depicts a seasonal event of some kind; be it Christmas, Easter, Valentine's Day or the royal wedding. Created purely for the enjoyment of others, these displays never fail to make me smile, breaking up the monotony of my route at the same time. Last week’s mise en scène was a cluster of faded mannequins bearing sashes which read 'make do and mend'. This wartime mantra got me thinking: if necessity is the mother of invention, is austerity the mother of re-invention? There is no end of things to lament in difficult economic times, but the regeneration of the British seaside to suit the more modest holiday budget is most certainly not one of them. Following an impressive £9m refurbishment back in 2009, the Avonmouth Hotel was re-born as Christchurch Harbour Hotel, taking its place among a small group of luxury coastal hotels whose other locations include Sidmouth, Salcombe and St. Ives. The hotel is located in one of the region's most idyllic, yet arguably underrated spots. Waking up to dazzling views of Mudeford 42

Quay and the sea beyond, I suggest letting the weather dictate the day's activities. On a clear day, catch the ferry over to Hengistbury Head and marvel at some the UK's most expensive beach huts, or if the cooler months don't permit too much exploration, simply enjoy the coastal scenery from the comfort of indoors before retreating to the sanctuary of the luxury spa. Because no restorative break is complete without due attention to meal times, the hotel’s two-rosette Harbour Restaurant offers outstanding cuisine using local ingredients chosen for their superb quality and flavours. Head Chef Loic Gratadoux creates menus that evolve with the seasons and celebrate produce from the sea and the pastures of Dorset.

building’s 64 rooms combines style and comfort with aplomb. So expect all the crisp white linen, fluffy towels and spacious bed space needed to ensure a truly peaceful night’s sleep. Thanks to retreats such as Christchurch Harbour Hotel, long gone are the days when a seaside holiday involved a donkey ride and a bucket and spade. Hotels of this kind boast creature comforts aplenty, forming an excellent base from which to explore all the rugged beauty the British coastline has to offer without having to worry if the sunshine is sporadic.

Locally reared meat features on the menu and being literally on the water’s edge means they also offer seafood landed daily from the Dorset waters. A regular fixture is the highly recommended Mudeford crab and brown shrimp tian served with avocado purée and orange and vanilla dressing – pleasing on the eye and the palate in equal measure.

Christchurch Harbour Hotel & Spa Christchurch Dorset BH23 3NT

Retiring after dinner is unlikely to disappoint either, as each of this Grade II listed

01202 483434 www.christchurch-harbour-hotel.co.uk

Thanks to retreats such as Christchurch Harbour Hotel, long gone are the days when a seaside holiday involved a donkey ride and a bucket and spade

Keynsham Wine Bar

The Seven Stars

Abigail, Daughter of Alison and Paul Brunsdon of The Wine Bar, Keynsham, is the new landlady of The Seven Stars in Timsbury, near Bath. Warm and inviting, The Seven Stars is a great destination, whether you want a delicious meal, or are just popping in for a drink. Abigail has been working closely alongside top-notch chef Tom since opening in November 2010.

The bar and restaurant area offers relaxing surroundings with extremely friendly staff who are happy to welcome locals and new faces alike.

Alongside the extensive menu Tom serves his special board daily, where delicious salads and locally-sourced produce are always on the menu. Check out the fresh fish available on Fridays and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to sample the ever-popular Sunday Roast prepared by Tom between 12pm and 3pm. Booking is recommended to avoid disappointment.

19 High Street - Keynsham - Bristol - BS31 1DP 01179 143153 - www.the-winebar-keynsham.co.uk

North Road - Timsbury - BA2 0JJ 01761 479398

he Wine Bar is an excellent choice for an intimate meal. It serves fresh, speciality fish dishes on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, sourced from a local fisherman. Other speciality dishes include fresh pasta and Pieminister pies, which are extremely popular and come in a variety of flavours. There is also a wide range of other main meals and snacks to choose from and fantastic wines on offer.

roast squash with hazelnut gnocchi and cider cream ❉ Demuths Ingredients For the squash A selection of small local squashes such as onion or acorn Thyme 2 cloves Salt Rapeseed oil

ead chef Richard Buckley of Demuths has a passion for bringing vegetables to the centre of the plate: “I believe that local, seasonal produce should be at the heart of all our food, nothing is more satisfying than taking a beautiful vegetable straight from the field, treating it with respect and serving it to people you care about.”

Demuths Restaurant in Bath has been one of the country’s top vegetarian

restaurants for over 20 years and continues to redefine what it means to cook and eat vegetables in our times. They strive to make healthier, tastier, more creative food using the world-class produce grown in the fields around Bath. In October and November there is no getting away from squashes. This recipe is a celebration of autumn with cider, hazelnuts and squashes combining to make a hearty, satisfying feast.

2 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX 01225 446059 www.demuths.co.uk

For the cider cream 2 shallots 2 garlic cloves 2 sprigs thyme 2 juniper berries 1 clove 200ml cider 200ml double cream Salt and pepper For the hazelnut semolina gnocchi 170ml whole organic milk 20g unsalted organic butter 50g semolina 20g toasted hazelnuts 15g old Winchester Cheddar, grated Salt Black pepper Nutmeg

Method For the cider sauce: 1 Fine dice the shallots and fry in a little vegetable oil until soft. Crush the garlic to a paste, add to the shallots and fry for 2 minutes. Add the cider, thyme and spices and reduce the cider by 2/3. 2 Add the Cream and simmer until the sauce coats the back of spoon. Put milk and butter into a pan and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and slowly add the semolina, stirring until thick.

For the gnocchi: Crush the hazelnuts and add to the mix with the cheese. Add nutmeg and season with salt and pepper. Spread onto a tray to cool and cut out rounds with a cookie cutter. For the squashes; Wash the squashes and cut into 2cm wedges removing the seeds but leaving the skins on. Put into a bowl and add thyme and cloves, cover in oil and season heavily. Lay on a tray and cover tightly with foil, then roast at 200°C for 35 minutes. To serve; Gently heat the sauce in a pan. Fry the gnocchi and a little savoy cabbage. Remove the squash from the oven and place on the plate with the gnocchi and cabbage. Pour the sauce over the top and enjoy the perfect taste of autumn.

> flavour siân blunos

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

The days are getting colder and shorter but, look on the bright side, there’s nothing like a little comfort food to warm the body and soul. With the change in the weather come the winter sniffles – bugs are already doing the rounds at my daughter’s school – so now is the time to make sure children are getting all the important vitamins and nutrients from their diets to keep them healthy for the long cold winter months ahead. This is the season for soups, stews and one-pot home-cooked food… slow food. We live in a fast-food world, but to combat that The Slow Food Movement was founded by food activist Carlo Petrini in 1986. This was mainly in response to the opening of a McDonalds near the Spanish Steps in Rome. To him, this seemed to represent a global takeover of industrialised, standardised food at the expense of good, traditional, regional food. He wanted to restore the value of food and meal times as a fundamental core of family life. The international Slow Food Movement was formally constituted in Paris on November 9, 1989, when delegates from 15 countries agreed and signed a founding Manifesto. Its initial aim was to support and defend good food, the enjoyment of eating and a slow pace of life. It then broadened to encompass a wider quality of life with sustainability and environmental issues. Slow Food is the voice of calm reason and quality to promote the greater enjoyment of food through a better understanding of its taste, quality and production. I started using a pressure cooker recently. I had always been a little nervous about using one but they are quick and easy once you get used to them, are reasonably priced and now I wouldn’t be without one. If you don’t own one just pop all the ingredients in a large pot in the oven and forget about it.

know healthy

food Beef and Tomato Casserole

This warming, wholesome, family favourite contains plenty of winter vegetables and is full of goodness. Once you have browned all the ingredients, just put the casserole in the oven and forget about it for one and a half hours – it cooks itself.

Makes 6 generous portions Ingredients

Cooking for Coco Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com

400g fresh tomato sauce or a tin of chopped tomatoes 2 Tbspns Sunflower oil 225g Lean chunk steak, diced 1 Small onion, chopped 1 Garlic clove, crushed 50g Button mushrooms ½ Swede, finely diced 1 Small leek, chopped 1 Small parsnip, chopped 3 Medium potatoes 1 pint Unsalted beef stock I Bay leaf Method 1 Preheat the oven to 160*C. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed, ovenproof casserole dish and fry the beef for about 4 minutes until nicely browned. Add the onion, garlic, mushrooms, swede, leek and potatoes and continue to brown for a further 4 minutes. 2 Stir in the tomato sauce (or chopped tomatoes) and stock and add the bay leaf. Bring to the boil, cover and transfer to the middle of the oven. Bake for about one and a half hours or until the vegetables are tender. Leave to cool in the pan. 3 When cool, remove the bay leaf and strain the casserole over a bowl and reserve the liquid. Whiz the meat and vegetables in a food processor, adding the reserved liquid to reach the correct texture. Alternatively, just mash the mixture for older babies. Divide into portions and serve.

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month regular flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice... I had the great pleasure of travelling on the UK’s last remaining Pullman dining car a couple of weeks ago, and on the journey was given a tour of the kitchen they use on board. It was a great reminder of the limited space available to cook in when travelling; from the galley of a kitchen to the back of a camper van, it can be a great challenge. But I have always said that no matter what the space available, you can still get not just good but great results. When Matt Dawson and I travelled round the UK in my old 1976 camper van, we cooked up everything from South Devon crab with spaghetti to langoustine thermidor, with just the basic equipment available to us. As with most great food, good quality fresh ingredients are the key so try not to let practicalities get in the way too much - be adventurous. In the camper van kitchen don’t skimp on ingredients, just cut down on the pots and pans and go for a big fish stew like the one in my recipe; and if you’re lucky enough to travel on a boat try something tasty on toast like sardines, anchovies or mackerel. If I had to give a few tips to help you make the most of limited space I would say: Reduce pots and pans and go for simple dishes. Serve these up in large bowls, family style, so that everyone can dig in. In the meantime, if you want a little taste of old fashioned luxury I can recommend a trip to London or back on the Pullman carriage! ■ To win an opportunity to dine on First Great Western’s Pullman carriage, simply answer this question: Q: Mitch Tonks has been promoting which South Devon shellfish in 2011? A) crab b) whelk c) langoustine Winners will receive two train tickets plus lunch any day on the Pullman carriage, of if they wish to travel at dinnertime, they can do so Monday to Wednesday. Lunch would be served on either the 1000 Penzance – Paddington train, or the 1255 Plymouth – Paddinton train. Or for dinner, service would be on the 1803 London-Penzance train, or the 1906 Paddington-Plymouth train. The offer is valid publishing date for 6 months. Please send all competition entries to competitions@flavourmagazine.com

A Simple Fish stew Serves 2 Ingredients For the Aioli 1 egg yolk ½ tsp Dijon mustard 2 cloves of garlic, pasted 75ml good olive oil Juice of ½ lemon Sea salt

For the Stew 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped Olive oil 2 chopped tomatoes Pinch of saffron 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme Splash Pernod or anise Splash of white wine Selection of fish – you can use anything really, mussels, clams, gurnard, monkfish, wrasse, mullet Sea salt Parsley or basil chopped, for sprinkling over the top Method 1 For the aioli, put the egg yolk in a bowl with the mustard and garlic. Whilst whisking add the olive oil in a steady stream until a thick emulsion is formed. Add the lemon juice, season to taste. 2 In a large pan, sweat the shallots and garlic in olive oil. Add the tomatoes, saffron and thyme and stir together. Add the Pernod and tip the pan away from you allowing it to burn off the alcohol. Add the wine and simmer gently for 2 minutes. 3 Add the fish and add enough water (Henry could use sea water) to just cover it. Simmer for 8-10 minutes. 4 Remove the thyme and season. Finally sprinkle with fresh chopped herbs and accompany with rich the garlicky aioli and bread.

> flavour mitch tonks

ÂŠ Mitch Tonks. RockFish Grill & Seafood Market Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill Recipe taken from The Aga Seafood Cookbook by Mitch Tonks published by Absolute Press. Photo credit Pete Cassidy 49

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the ring o’ bells A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

Ring o’ Bells Priston Somerset BA2 9EE 01761 471 467 www.bathales.com 50

There is something magical about the countryside in the autumn – something deliciously unkempt in the way fallen leaves are haphazardly strewn across narrow lanes, or huddled together against a dry stone wall for warmth. On a blustery November day, you gaze skywards to see John Keats’ ‘barred clouds bloom the soft-dying day’, or simply bask in the ‘rosy hue’ that gives you a warm feeling inside despite the falling temperature. But there’s no doubt that the mercury is edging inexorably lower on the thermometer, so there’s a strong argument that the browns and oranges of fall are better viewed through the window of a warm and comfy pub. Around four miles South of Bath down some windy lanes, in the picturesque village of Priston, the Ring O’ Bells provides an excellent vantage point from which to contemplate the changing of the seasons. Priston is an historic village. There was a Roman villa here around 100 AD, and Priston is mentioned in the Domesday Book. The pub gets its name from its proximity to the 12th Century Church of St Luke and St Andrew which, incidentally, is topped by a weather vane so large you can’t help wondering if someone

got their decimal point in the wrong place. The pub itself is attached to the village hall, and built out of local stone. The exterior avoids the overly twee excesses of chocolate-box wannabes, and the pub boasts only a few benches against the front wall. As you step inside, the first thing that hits you is the slightly smokey burnt wood aroma of the log fire. For me, the calming effect of a log fire in a stone-built pub should be prescribed on the NHS. Ahead of you is a welcoming stone bar. There are flagstones on the floor, which help add to the tranquil sense of timelessness. Over to the left is a marginally more formal dining area. The food ranges from light bites to more hearty main dishes, but all are prepared with a heavy emphasis on using locally-sourced ingredients. On my visit, they did a mean salmon, and an utterly succulent local steak in a rich, rich sauce. Whether eating or just stopping for that autumn-watch drink, there is an excellent selection of real ales for you to try. Bath Gem is an absolute staple these days, but that caramel flavour is never less than welcome. It is supplemented here by Wickwar Brewery’s Brand Oak Bitter

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Raise a glass to... Bath Gem (4.1%) From Warmley in Bristol. Caramel is the first word that springs to mind. It’s that mid-brown, almost amber colouring and malty aroma. It’s a really clever brew too, because as you drink it it’s all fruit and hops and full of flavour, but then as you drain the last drop and utter a satisfied ‘aaah’, you sense a dryness in the mouth that sends you back for another. (or BOB). Now, if autumn were just one colour, I think it would be the coppery hue of a fresh pint of BOB! Also on tap is a brew made especially for the Ring O’ Bells by the Blindmans Brewery of nearby Leighton, whose brews benefit from the use of natural spring water during the brewing process. Around to the right is that fire, with stacks of logs in the corner, and a large mirror on the wall. You can see where there used to be a dart board with spotlight, but best of all is the bench beneath the window on which to sit and watch the leaves flutter by. I must have had too much to drink on my visit, as I could swear I saw a black and white picture of water-skiing witches on the mantelpiece... Toward the rear of the pub is a games room, which has a fooze-ball table, a selection of books along one wall, and a skittle alley. Well, I say skittle alley... Now, I’m now skittlologist, but I’m sure skittle alleys should be longer than this one is. I get the impression that some of my taller friends could almost knock down the skittles just by leaning forward and flicking them... No matter, the alley is well used, and anything that encourages locals and visitors alike to stay has to be a good thing.

It’s worth noting that the Ring O’ Bells closes from three in the afternoon until six, so make sure you time your visit carefully. That said, the village hosts frequent morris dancing and other folk events, and an annual duck race on the river. The pub is also an excellent starting and/or finishing point for some really good wildlife walks in the area. There are three B&B rooms available too if you want to make an overnight stop of your visit. Whether dropping in for a quick drink, settling down for a meal or digging in for an entire session, the Ring O’ Bells is a charming reminder of how pubs used to be, and still should be. Friendly yet unprepossessing, historically significant yet utterly welcoming, supportive of local producers and breweries, but with a commitment to good quality food and drink.

Wickwar BOB (4.0%) Brand Oak Bitter is the flagship brew of the brewery now situated on the site of the original Arnold Perrett & Co brewery in Wickwar. This is a copper coloured best bitter with a distinct hint of fireworks and bonfire night, sparklers and toffee apples. To the taste it has a nutty dryness that makes it dangerously quaffable. Broad Oak Pheasant Plucker (4.5%) Good to see proper ciders that don’t overdo the alcohol content. This one has an orangey tint to it, not utterly still, but with only a very light hazy sparkle to it. Reassuring, too, to be able to actually smell apples in the bouquet! Mole’s Black Rat Cider (6%) Made in Sandford, Somerset. This is a blend, traditional, unpasteurised cider that, unlike many sparkling ones, actually smells of apples. It looks bright and welcoming, and the flavour has none of that eye-twitching bite that some traditional ciders have. This means it drinks very easily, all clean and crisp, but treat it with respect, as the strength will sneak up and trip you over on the walk home.

> flavour ask a chef

askachef: Q

Can chocolate really complement savoury food and what dish would you recommend as the perfect example of the match? Steven Hollis, Wells

on Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s and The Muset by Ronnie. His distinguished career has seen him work in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Schooled in classic French techniques, Ron’s modern European cooking style is underpinned with a passion for using the very best seasonal ingredients.

Halloween is coming up, and I want to give my guests a shock! What can I serve them? Emma King, Brize Norton.

Chocolate predates Mayan culture, but this is where it was first introduced to Western culture, which added sugar and milk. So the short answer is yes. Unsweetened chocolate has a bitter, spicy characteristic that can enhance a dish, especially game such as venison.

Flagging veggie here: could you suggest a meaty alternative to animal flesh? (No Quorn please…) Roz Moody, Hartcliffe.

Halloumi is a cheese from Greece, traditionally made from goat or sheep’s milk. It has a really meaty texture, even when cooked. Grill or fry it, the choice is yours and it’ll help provide the balanced diet you enjoy.

Not something I’ve done much of myself, but I did overhear a couple of mums talking about putting poached eggs in tomato sauce on spaghetti – bloody eyeballs on matted locks. I was shocked!

I’ve found my allotment inundated with marrow-scale courgettes. I’d like to stuff a few, any suggestions? Beverly Butler, Uphill. Cut the courgette in half, scrape out the seeds and fill with a ragout. Top with cheese and breadcrumbs and bake. Lamb is a fantastic meat to make the ragout with and mint herb works well with both.

I would really like to support the English wine grower, but I find them all very expensive. Is there one you prefer that is both top quality and more affordable? Nimmie Goldsmith, Trowbridge.

The Three Choirs in Gloucestershire does a wine tour and tasting for £8. They offer up a selection of fabulous wines ranging from £6.20 to £13.10 a bottle. Give it a try, it’s on your doorstep and I’m sure you’ll find an affordable English wine. If not there are another 449 vineyards to try.

Ronnie’s of Thornbury 01454 411137 ~ The Muset by Ronnie 01179 737248 ~ www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

the methuen arms The Methuen Arms is fast growing a reputation for excellent cuisine. With high hopes and quite an appetite, Louis Labron-Johnson goes to investigateâ&#x20AC;Ś

Nestled in amongst Wiltshire fields, boutique shops and quaint old amenities, the Methuen Arms sits at the heart of the quintessential English village of Corsham. Once the hub of village activity, before neglect left it a ramshackle ruin, this historic inn has been painstakingly restored and refurbished by the Still family. Martin and Debbie Still have a knack of taking dilapidated buildings that have not been loved for decades, and renovating them in a manner that is sympathetic to the original structure. Having said this, they are more than happy to make big changes where needed, rearranging rooms and knocking through walls to make the space as comfortable, atmospheric and welcoming as possible. They did it ten years ago with another inn nearby called The Pear Tree, starting from scratch as always. The aforementioned inn is now run by the legendary Marco Pierre White, and is testament to the care and attention to detail the Stills administer to their properties. The Methuen Arms is no different: Originally a medieval dwelling named Winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Court, the Methuen was built upon in the Georgian period, and the result is a fascinating mĂŠlange of architectural styles which vary from room to room. Upon arriving we were greeted warmly by a waitress, the head chef, and Martin, pretty much all at the same time. This is partly down to the lovely approach the team has toward guests, but also due to the way that the Methuen Arms is now laid out: The building is very open-plan, and very accessible, with a centralised kitchen and walk-through wine vaults; very little is hidden from view. When everything is so open and on-show, it provides for a very immersive experience.

The Methuen Arms 2 High Street Corsham SN13 0HB 01249 717060 www.themethuenarms.com 54

Although it was mid-week, the bar and restaurant were heaving. The Methuen has been open under the Stills for little over a year, yet they have already gathered quite the regular congregation. We browsed the menu at leisure over a glass of excellent Prosecco at a roughlyhewn table in the bar, before being escorted by our friendly waitress to the restaurant section. As we ordered our wine - a full-bodied Bordeaux with oak and blackberry notes - we were served a basket of freshly-baked bread and butter, the bread still warm from the oven, always a pleasant touch.

I started with a pair of large, creamy scallops, served with capers, black olives, green heritage tomatoes and toasted bread. The scallops were pan-fried to buttery perfection, whilst the capers and olives combined to make a kind of rough tapenade. My companion opted for a chargrilled pigeon breast, rich and smoky. Our mains arrived shortly after the moppedclean starter plates had left the table. I had chosen duck breast - a great favourite of mine - served with lentils, black pudding, caramelised squash and green peppercorn sauce. Although I usually have my duck a little rarer than this one, it was nevertheless packed with flavour, and was complemented perfectly by the accompaniments. The butternut squash had a nectar-like sweetness that goes so well with roasted duck, and the Trealy Farm black pudding was hands down better than any I have ever tasted before. Period. Edward chose a succulent fillet of pork, with polenta, shallots and chorizo. The pork was melt-in-the-mouth, and the contrasts in flavours; tangy, mellow and sharp, worked well. All the dishes were superbly presented, with finely balanced colours and textures; every ingredient stood up well individually, as well as part of a whole, which is something I always find important. Call me finicky, but I like to be able to pinpoint each aspect of my dish. Desserts came and then disappeared rapidly, but were no less memorable for it. My chocolate and hazelnut brownie was sumptuous, warm and crumbly, served with a healthy dollop of ice cream for good measure. His poached pears were equally impressive, a slightly more refreshing option if you can take no more rich food. After washing these down with a number of their fine selection of Cognacs and Armagnacs, it was time to retire, sleepy, yet satisfied. Its small wonder The Methuen Arms is so popular. With front of house staff that are at once amiable, knowledgeable and helpful, and an incredibly talented team behind the stoves, Debbie and Martin have a winning formula. Kudos to them for their inventiveness and flair, as well as the obvious love and respect they have for this historic inn.

“

The Methuen Arms originally a medieval dwelling, was built upon in the Georgian period, and the result is a fascinating mélange of architectural styles which vary from room to room.

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NEW FLAVOUR WEBSITE This month flavour launches its brand new website, featuring dozens of recipes, features, suggestions of where to find the best dining, chef profiles and many more ideas for lovers of great food and drink in the West Country.

Visit www.flavourmagazine.com for a brilliant browsing experience!

THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL The Royal Crescent Hotel is the most impressively located luxury hotel in the World Heritage City of Bath, occupying the two central buildings of the world’s finest crescent. Beyond its magnificent façade lies a hotel renowned for its charm, elegance and superb service, and the unexpected beauty of the beautiful oneacre, landscaped garden leading to the skillfully converted coach houses, which now accommodate the

WIN! 56

award-winning Dower House restaurant and Bath House spa. Special events throughout the month at The Crescent include; Dress for Success, a personal styling workshop on Monday, November 14 from 10.30am to 3pm including refreshments and lunch; a Festive Entertaining Workshop on Monday, November 21 from 10am to 2.30pm; or Speak Up, corporate communication for women (or how to be heard in a man’s world) on November 27 and 28. Visit the website for more information.

The Royal Crescent is also offering one lucky reader an opportunity to win an overnight stay for two people in a deluxe double room, including dinner for two with a bottle of house wine, breakfast and full use of the spa and a one-hour treatment for each person. Advance booking is essential, available Sunday to Thursday subject to availability; prize must be taken by March 31.

For your chance to win, email competitions@flavourmagazine.com leaving your contact details and stating where you picked up a copy of the magazine.

The Royal Crescent Hotel, 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS • 01225 823333 • www.royalcrescent.co.uk

Jon Thorner’s is a great mainstay of the Somerset countryside, and one of the first farm shops in the region. Having been going strong in picturesque Pylle – near Shepton Mallet – for over 35 years, the farm shop has expanded to include a delightful café-style bistro; the Coffee Den. As it approaches its first anniversary, there is plenty to celebrate for this cosy little eatery. Although it is set in the rural heartlands, the Coffee Den is surprisingly fresh and up-todate. The décor is striking and contemporary, and the beautiful furniture carefully selected. Sitting alongside the farm shop, it is the perfect companion piece: lovely for a bite to eat and a spot of relaxation after a shopping trip. Not merely an aside to the farm shop, the Coffee Den is a worthy destination in itself. It provides more than just a café experience, as you can enjoy a three-course meal with wine here, and both food and service is impeccable. Michelle Emery runs the café, and has overseen its surge in popularity following the opening. As well as lunch, the café now opens on Friday evenings for dinner, and will also be opening on Saturday evenings from November, as the team gear up for Christmas. Don’t forget to try the renowned cooked breakfasts, which win unanimous plaudits from all who have devoured them.

drops by flavour

THE COFFEE DEN at Jon Thorner’s

The Coffee Den is perfect for festive events. There is a snug and inviting dining area above the café that can seat 25, and larger parties can also hire out the main dining area. Two delicious menus have been created especially for Christmas, one for lunch, one for dinner. Evening guests should try the sumptuous beef Wellington, while early birds will be more than content with a perfectly cooked fillet of salmon served with creamy leeks. “The farm shop originally started out sourcing from our own farm,” says founder Jon Thorner, “but as we’ve grown we’ve been really pleased to be able to champion other local producers as well. We now receive produce from over 25 farms and suppliers in just a 10 mile radius!” Everybody here is friendly and affable, and always keen to chat or give advice on what’s tasty this season. No doubt we’ll be hearing a lot more about the Coffee Den in the future as this delightful little destination goes from strength to strength. The Coffee Den serves up great homemade food, at great prices. Bon Anniversaire to them! Coffee Den Stockwood Farm Buildings Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 838 938 www.jonthorners.co.uk 57

> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Scott Paton Age: 24 Originally from: Exeter Head chefs at: The Horn of Plenty Restaurant and Hotel

There was no great epiphany in me deciding to become a chef; it was always going to happen, and from the age of about seven I was obsessed with food and its presentation. I started out at The Jack at the Green Inn, a great base for any young chef looking to develop their career. Initially I was washing dishes on the weekends, but soon got sucked in by the adrenaline of service. I gradually worked my way up the ranks to win Dessert of the Year in 2008, awarded to me by the Association of Pastry Chefs. That year I expanded my repertoire beyond pastry, and in 2009 was awarded South West Chef of the Year award in the Young Professional category – a great honour. My noisy neighbours aren’t the only reason I get up in the morning! What keeps me going every day is the drive and the desire to please my customers, to have them walk away from my restaurant with a satisfied belly and a big smile on their faces. I will always strive to make those who know me proud – I have been given a lot of help and guidance over the years, and fully intend to make the best of what I have received.

importance. Our gardens here at The Horn are full of the most amazing wild strawberries - definitely an essential ingredient - something so unique on the doorstep is really exciting! There are many things that make the Horn of Plenty a very special destination, including the grounds and the rich and exciting history of the place. Most of all though, it’s the team that makes the Horn of Plenty great - not just the kitchen staff, but the whole team. We have two AA rosettes and we’re striving for our third. It’s really important for everyone here that we are all working towards the same goal. It’s amazing to see how food has developed and moved forwards over the past 20 years, yet I certainly don’t think it’s peaked. I’m really excited to see what new things come onto the market. I would say this to aspiring chefs: Get your head down, work hard, and enjoy the young years. They will stand you in good stead for your future. ■

I am constantly encouraging the team to be creative, and to keep things fresh and relevant – an idea can always be improved upon! I don’t want to be cooking the same dishes I am now in five year’s time. For me, being a chef isn’t just about preparing great food, it’s about discipline, flair and creativity as well. The food we serve is classical cuisine with a contemporary twist. The Horn of Plenty isn’t about groundbreaking, off-the-wall-crazy dishes; we’re more interested in well-cooked, classic flavours with a little bit of a ‘wow’ factor. Fresh and local produce is always of the utmost

The Horn of Plenty Gulworthy Tavistock Devon PL19 8JD 01822 832528 www.thehornofplenty.co.uk 59

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"Time and again, in the chaos of the seed, the new organism is built up again out of the whole universe.” Rudolf Steiner, 1924

future

heralds of a wholesome

With financial and political crises taking the limelight, seriously parallel farming issues - a ferocious gathering storm - go almost unnoticed. As we read about food in organs such as this, we might be surprised to learn that, just beyond the purely aesthetic delights of the morsels that reach our lips, there’s a story of great decline. Sick soils, a toxic atmosphere, acidification of streams, rivers and oceans, newlyemerging diseases of food crops and livestock all confirm that the days of intensively produced plenty are nearing an inevitable end: Nature is showing us at every turn that the environmental, ecological and human costs are too high: the game is almost up and it looks as though we are on the brink of learning some hard lessons - more than a bit on the tardy side! Human health and behaviour show disturbing signs of a malfunction and wild species are in a freefall of decline, all at a pace consistent with the passing of true agricultural wisdom and the loss of strong, numerous and resilient farming communities. 60

What’s more, we cannot escape the fact that the nutritive value of the vast majority of our foodstuffs - yes, even organic – has been plummeting too. For example, the most valuable constituent of our grains and our cereals – protein – is but a fraction of what it once was, yet its growing takes ever more expensive, harmful, synthetic inputs than ever before. All this is not to say that we need to bring primitive conditions back to humanity, though we’d do well to remember the three genuine necessities for physical survival: food, warmth and shelter! No, if we delve into the radically natural methods being pioneered by Ian and Denise Bell at Foxholes Farm in Dorset, then we are given a glimpse of why their meat (produced and marketed direct to customers under the label Heritage Prime) is hailed by the most notable food experts as “probably the best on the planet”. On a broader plain, we’ll see a whole new template for the regeneration of farming as an indispensable social necessity, indeed where the farmer will be recognized for what he truly is: the most important professional of all; where our young may be inspired and

enabled to pursue farming as a career and, where the farm may become a haven for knowledge of the very forces, the spiritual elements, that play into the landscape in which we grow our food. Here is a unique farm that, managed with the skills only to be attained through testing experience, has combined the great philosopher Rudolf Steiner’s biodynamic method with some of the afore-mentioned natural wisdom and a no-nonsense, complete rejection of all artificially derived material and pharmaceutical products. Not for nothing do Ian and Denise Bell feature regularly as heralds of a future where blind materialism is relegated in favour of more wholesome, more life enhancing human ambitions, especially when it’s a matter of what we expect to gain from what we eat! www.heritageprime.co.uk

> flavour martin blunos

IT’S HOT THERE AND COLD HERE! As winter extends its icy grasp, Martin Blunos sends us relief with a chocolately Spanish tradition…back to basics… You don’t have to be a brain surgeon to know that autumn is upon us with a vengeance; trees are shedding leaves like crazy and the temperature has dropped big time. The notion that our Indian summer would last has been dismissed with a click of the central heating thermostat. The word on the street is that we are in for a stinking winter. So what are folk to do? Huddle around the Aga, de-moth ball the thermals or in my case, fly off to the south of Spain. Alright for some I hear you say but this was business, honest! The weather was terrific although I didn’t get to see much of it as most of my time was spent behind a computer screen or on the road. I was working with a (younger – he’ll love that bit) pal of mine setting up villa cookery ‘holidays’ for next year. Informal, laid back and above all fun is the ethos behind the week-long courses. Based in amazing villas, just outside Marbella, they entail

market and producer visits and a live cooking experience in a local Restaurant (a la Hell’s Kitchen). Imagine though when it’s down time and you toss the apron on the chopping board, whack on the Speedos and dive into the villa’s pool, sipping on a cold one, catching a few rays while reflecting on the nuances of fish cookery – after all it is a holiday! (the picture, the view over the computer screen, shows said pool). The idea is, you come home with an armful of recipes, knowhow, a tan and a bunch of new friends to send Christmas cards to. I am looking forward to taking the courses and to sending a lot more Christmas cards next year. As the cookery holidays are based in sunny Spain, this month’s recipe has to be a Spanish favourite – Churros n Choc. Similar to doughnuts, these fellas are great to eat dunked in a mug of ‘real’ drinking chocolate al fresco over there, or huddled around the Aga over here!

CHURROS N’ CHOC SAUCE For the churros 5 tbsp Vegetable oil 1 tbsp Ground cinnamon 1 Lemon, microplaned zest only 200g Plain flour, sieved ½ tsp Salt 1 Egg Vegetable oil, for deep-frying 6 tbsp Caster sugar For the hot chocolate 225g Plain bitter dark chocolate, broken into squares 900ml Milk 175ml Double cream Pinch of salt Method 1. For the churros: place 300ml water in a saucepan with the oil, half the cinnamon and the lemon rind. Bring to the boil. Meanwhile, sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. 2. Once the water mixture is at a rolling boil, tip in the flour, beating well with a wooden spoon over a low heat until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan. Leave to cool a little, then beat in the egg. 3. For the hot chocolate: place chocolate in a bowl and set over a pan of simmering water until the chocolate has melted. 4. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fat fryer to 180°C. Spoon the churros mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 2.5cm star-shaped nozzle. Pipe 7.5cm lengths of dough directly into the hot oil and cook for 3-4 minutes until golden, turning once. Cook in batches. 5. Meanwhile, mix together the remaining cinnamon and sugar on a flat plate. Use a slotted spoon to remove the cooked churros from the oil. Quickly drain on kitchen paper, then roll in the cinnamon sugar. Pile on to a plate and keep them warm while you finish cooking the rest of the churros. 6. To finish the hot chocolate, place the milk, salt and cream in a small saucepan. Using a spatula, add the melted chocolate, stirring to combine or ziss with a stick blender to make it frothy. Heat gently for a few minutes. 7. When ready to serve, pour the hot chocolate into mugs, dunk in the churros and enjoy…

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 61

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Bath Restaurant Awards celebrates all that’s great on a plate Bath celebrated its world status as a top tourist destination with some of the finest restaurants, cafes and bars in the land with the inaugural Bath Good Food Awards 2011. Ten ‘mystery’ judges spent three months visiting and dining at the city’s best restaurants and eateries nominated by local foodies and visitors to assess the very top institutions in 24 categories. They deliberated on a Testing criteria of excellence from front of house to the quality and provenance of the ingredients, and the breadth and quality of the wine list to the ambience and warmth of their welcome. They explored every style of eatery from fine dining to breakfast bars, sandwich shops to international cuisine, and family friendly

restaurants to the region’s top food producers. Every winner has earnt their place on Bath’s ‘Best list’. The awards were presented at a lavish award ceremony at the Guildhall with over 200 guests including restaurateurs, chefs, food producers, sommeliers, and food bloggers and of course flavour. The evening was compered by Angela Mount, wine expert, flavour columnist and presenter who is best known for having her taste buds insured for £10 million by her former employer Somerfield!

Bath Restaurant AWARDS

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A n d th e Win n e rs a re : People’s Choice Award: Demuths

Best Newcomer: PanAsia

Highly commended: Firehouse Rotisserie

Highly commended: Sam’s Kitchen

Best Restaurant: Casanis

Best Sunday Lunch: Chequers

Highly commended: Demuths

Highly commended: Hop Pole

Best Chef: Sam Moody, Bath Priory

Best Front of House: Circus

Highly commended: Laurent Couvrieur, Casanis

Highly commended: Marlborough Tavern

Best Family Friendly: Giraffe

Best Up & Coming: Same, Same but Different

Highly commended: Lime Lounge

Highly commended: Cafe Lucca

Best Gastropub: Ring o’Bells

Best Cafe: Lime Lounge

Highly commended: White Hart

Highly commended: Sam’s Kitchen

Best Romantic table-for-two: Dower House at Royal Crescent

Best Chain: Cote Brasserie

Highly commended: The Circus

Best Seafood: Loch Fyne

Highly commended: Jamie’s Italian

Best Alfresco: Marlborough Tavern Highly commended: Bath Priory

Best Asian: Yen Sushi

Sandwich: Jika Jika

Highly commended: PanAsia

Highly commended - Sam’s Kitchen

Best Italian: Martinis

Best Breakfast: Sam’s Kitchen

Highly commended: Jamie’s Italian

Highly commended: Jazz Cafe

Highly commended: Jamuna

Best Fine Dining Wine List: Bath Priory

Best Indian: Rajpoot

Best Vegetarian: demuths Highly commended: Yak Yeti Yak

Best Bath Institution: Beaujolais Highly commended: Demuths

Highly commended: Olive Tree

Best Wine List: Hudsons Highly commended: Bistro La Barrique

Best Independent Food Producer: Elements for Life Highly commended: Bath Pig Co, Wiltshire Chilli Co.

Congratulations to all this year’s winners, and flavour has picked out some of our favourites to showcase. Jika Jika - Best Sandwich

This family-run bistro has attracted a loyal, local clientele since 1972. Their approach is simple – use the freshest market fare, throw in a little French inspiration and serve a great selection of freshly-prepared classic bistro dishes with frequently changed specials to ensure guests get the most from every visit. They receive their produce daily, directly from the local suppliers, while owner Jean Pierre is passionate about his well-researched wine list.

This trendy cafe situated in central Bath is a favourite of Bathonians for breakfast and lunch. The sandwich to catch the judges’ eyes was their tremendous steak and caramelised onion on ciabbata. Jika Jika was also voted by the Times Online in their top 10 of best brunches in Britain. Open from 8am to 4.30pm every day Jika Jika is a great place to enjoy a seasonal menu and specialist coffee, eat in or take away.

www.beaujolaisbath.co.uk

www.jikajika.co.uk

The Beaujolais - Best Bath Institution

> flavour xxxxxxx

The Rajpoot - Best Indian

MARTINI BEST ITALIAN RESTAURNAT IN BATH The Marlborough Tavern Best Al Fresco Dining

The Marlborough Tavern is no stranger to awards, having picked up several national and local gongs for the quality of its food. At the Bath Good Food Awards it was nominated for Best Gastropub, Best front of house team and Best al fresco dining. Having solely picked up awards previously for its food, the team at The Marlborough Tavern were delighted to pick up a highly commended for their front of house team – the Marlborough has a great reputation for its friendly service. And they bagged the title of Best al fresco dining for their gorgeous courtyard garden.

The internationally renowned Rajpoot of Bath is an illustrious Indian and Bangladeshi restaurant that has continued to provide high-class food and service for 31 years. With nine different individually thought out rooms, each with their own distinct characters and features, and a capacity of 160 the restaurant creates a maze of refined dining experiences that is affectionately dubbed the ‘Aladdin's cave delights’. The Rajpoot has become a part of the rich culture and vibrancy of the historic Roman city and is truly deserving of its award.

Martini have won the best Italian restaurant in Bath at the Good Food Awards! Deservedly regarded as the best of it's type in the city, at Martini Ristorante run by Nunzio, Luigi and Franco you can expect a warm welcome, delicious food and great wines from Italy. We are now taking Christmas bookings so check out our delicious Christmas set menus at £26.95 for four courses for dinner and £16.95 for three courses for lunch.

01225 466833/464758 www.rajpoot.com

www.martinirestaurant.co.uk

www.marlboroughtavern.com

The lime Lounge - Best Cafe The Lime Lounge is a place to step in for a bite anytime of the day, from hearty breakfasts, scrummy lunches to exquisite dinners. Located between the Royal Crescent and the Circus, where It mixes fine contemporary food with thoughtful service. As an added bonus, it offers ‘two for one’ on all main courses between 5pm and 7pm Sunday to Thursday. www.limeloungebath.co.uk

The Chequers - Best Sunday Lunch The Chequers is quietly gaining a reputation for serving some of the best food in Bath. Nominated in four categories at the Awards (including Best Gastropub and Best Chef for Head Chef, Leigh Evans) it picked up the award for Best Sunday lunch,– if you’ve ever had the good fortune of trying - you’ll know it was every bit deserved. Located just around the corner from the Circus and Royal Crescent, the pub’s chalk boards display a frequently changing menu of inventive British cooking, all homemade on the premises using the best local produce.

Demuths - People’s Choice Award Best Vegetarian Restaurant “To receive the People's Choice Award was just fantastic,” said Rachel Demuth, owner of Demuths. “It really means our customers like what we are doing. We are passionate about producing delicious food with vegetables at the heart of the dish and to have this recognised in this way is a real boost. Many thanks to our customers for voting for us. We were also Highly Commended in the Best Restaurant and Best Bath Institution categories. Judges praised the menu devised by our head chef Richard Buckley for its seasonal and locally sourced ingredients and said that all the dishes were well conceived and executed, and served-up by the superb, professional and knowledgeable front of house team. Comments included: “They clearly have a passion for what they do” and “It really is lick smackingly good!” www.demuths.co.uk

www.thechequersbar.com

Same Same but Different - Best Up & Coming With its laid-back, continental roots, Same-Same is the ideal place to enjoy home-cooked and hearty British/Mediterranean food, no matter what time of day. Head chef and owner Rob Indge uses only local produce and, with a creative flair, cooks all dishes from scratch. Try his home-cured salmon kedgeree, well worth an award on its own! www.same-same.co.uk

> flavour nick harman

What recession?

Although gripped by financially trying times, Nick Harman discovers that rather than going ‘down the swanny’, the restaurant scene is more vibrant than ever… There used to be a game in fairgrounds, and maybe there still is, where armed with a fat rubber mallet you had to whack the heads of moles that popped up randomly from the ground. The faster you did it, and the more moles you whacked, the more points you gained. It was fun and exhausting in equal measure. The restaurant scene is much the same. Restaurants are opening faster and faster and the poor critic whacks away as quickly as he or she can, but more keep coming and coming all the same. We keep getting told there’s a recession on and yet we have probably never seen so many restaurant openings. Going to restaurants requires disposable income so how, in the worst recession in most lifetimes, are people affording to spend in these new places?

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year. 66

Well I failed O-Level Economics, and I have the certificate to prove it, but it seems to me rather simple. If you are lucky enough to have a job and to be a homeowner, then with the mortgage rate being so low you probably have more spare cash than at any previous time in your life. That money, far from being sensibly salted away for a rainy day, is instead being splurged on eating out and fiddling while Rome burns. Part of it is also down to how eating out has changed. The new generation of restaurant goers don’t want anything as dull as three courses and coffee, they want constant novelty or else. They want to be always finding their next ‘new favourite

restaurant’ and then, paradoxically, to never darken its door again because they’ve found somewhere else. This is good for them, but not so good for the restaurant’s longevity and earning power. One ever-clever restaurateur has found a solution. Before the wave breaks on whatever his current restaurant happens to be, he is already planning to open another and at the same time stoking anticipation for that event via social media. That way he’s always staying ahead of the curve, while the restaurants he’s already opened can cheerfully bob along after the initial crowds have moved on. The secret of that approach is also to not to invest too much in the new restaurant’s fit out. Grab a small place that already has the correct licence in place, but is otherwise unprepossessing. Knock off the plaster, tear down the ceiling, stick in some cheap industrial chic, write a menu on scraps of paper, mixing quality ingredients that don’t need cooking with things that can be mostly grilled, and you’re all set. Then insist on not taking reservations and Kerching! you’ll be the temporary talk of the town and have queues around the block, for a few weeks anyway at least. Where this leaves restaurants that are in it for the long haul, who want to give employment to professional staff and not resting actors, and who want to grow old in service is anyone’s guess. Mine is that they will hunker down, maintain consistency, and wait for the change that will inevitably