Flavour Magazine London June 2011

flavour for people who love local food

London | Issue 2 | June 2011

£3 (Where sold)

Sweet Sensation New summer chocolates from Paul A Young

WIN! A three-night stay with Tregothnan Estate!

www.flavourmagazine.com/london

CITY (E)SCAPES Our selection of gastronomic getaways

FESTIVAL FEASTS

Eat your way round the UK’s finest food events

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Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Art Director: Richard Cook Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Hayley Francomb, Director Email: hayley@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Alastair McClare, Sales Account Manager Email: ali@flavourmagazine.com Jamie Ford, Sales Account Manager Email: jamie@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Diana Chaccour Contributors: Cheryl Cohen, Ren Behan, Nick Harman, Duncan Shine, Zeren Wilson

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Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com/london For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com

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For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

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For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions.

All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

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contents 5

WIN! A three night stay with Tregothnan Estate!

14 Festival Feasts Eat your way round the UK’s finest food events 10 In Season Cheryl Cohen from London Farmers’ Markets brings you the best of the season’s produce 28 Rachel Allen Queen of Irish cooking on making baking sexy 34 City (E)scapes Our selection of gastronomic getaways

Welcome to the June issue of flavour!

It’s been quite the month here at flavour HQ, and with summer in full swing (in spirit at least), we can confirm that the most exciting time of year is officially upon us. There seems to be no end of food events popping up and going underground this summer, so in addition to our usual listings we’ve included a round-up of the foodie festivals on PAGE 14 that are definitely worth making a space in the diary for.

The fleeting British summer might be action-packed but in my book, there’s always time to plan a well-earned break; especially one where you know superlative food awaits!

If you’re in any doubt, take a look at our selection of gastronomic getaways on PAGE 34 and you’ll have your bags packed before the week is out.

We’ve also been feeling quite inspired by Silvena Rowe’s new cookbook Orient Express – mezze has never looked so good. Turn to PAGE 22 for some mouthwatering recipes that promise to please the eye as well as the palate.

We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.

Happy Eating!

Holly Aurelius-Haddock

> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month

GELUPO’S GELATOS DO ONE GOOD THING One Water, who donate 100% of profits sales to fund community based water solutions in Africa, is celebrating the launch of a stylish new bottle design this month.

Through a simple consumer purchase choice, communities and schools in Africa are provided with tailored water solutions designed to suit their needs.

For example, roundabout powered water pumps called PlayPumps are installed in schools. As children play, water is pumped from deep underground and stored in tanks for use by the wider community. Not only does this provide the school with a free, clean, sustainable water source, but it also helps to increase school attendance.

Until 3 July, the critically-acclaimed Gelupo takes centre stage at Harvey Nichols’ ‘Taste Lab’ – a gastronomic theatre created to showcase the latest food trends and innovations.

Alongside some of the finest Italian gelato and sorbets in London, the Gelupo pop-up will also offer a range of gelato cakes and cocktail granitas using Snow Queen Vodka and Hendricks Gin. Gelupo has also launched a nationwide delivery service with all of the top flavours available such as the Bonet Gelato - a delicious combination of chocolate, coffee, egg yolks, rum, caramel, amaretti biscuits and vanilla. www.gelupo.com

ON THE COVER Featured on the cover this month is a delectable summer pudding chocolate dessert truffle, being launched by Paul A Young at the Taste of London later this month (16-19 June). Created with a gorgeous berry and basil compote, this generous chocolate also contains a wonderful raspberry liqueur ganache and a layer of crunchy caramelized hazelnut. A white chocolate dome encases the shell bringing with it a sweetness to balance perfectly with the flavours inside.

Bottled at source in Powys, Wales, One water is available to buy in a variety of sizes from Morrison’s, Tesco, Waitrose, World Duty Free and Total UK with an RRP of £0.45 (500ml) and £0.69 (750ml). www.onewater.org.uk 4

On 14 June, Paul opens his third chocolaterie and flagship store at 143 Wardour St, Soho.

Photo by Simon Pearson

0207 437 0011 www.paulayoung.co.uk

> flavour news

NAMING NO NAMES Devonshire cream tea is the latest British food to seek EU protected status. Cornish pasties, Cumberland sausages and Melton Mowbray pies have all been granted the same gastronomic distinction, putting them in the same category as Champagne, Parma ham and Kalamata olives.

They are among a growing list of British staples that have been given protected geographical status by the European Union, offering a legal guarantee against imitators. Supporters of the system say it has elevated the status of UK cooking, but critics argue that it encourages cartellike behaviour and stifles innovation.

What do you think? Email holly@flavourmagazine. com with your opinion and we’ll print the responses next issue!

PERFECT CUPPA Caroline Thompson, an artisan tea artiste, alchemist and blender is the brains behind The Girl with the Golden Cup, a tea maker specialising in bespoke blends that seek to capture the essence of the drinker.

Caroline’s signature range is the Seven Deadly Teas – Wrath, Sloth, Lust, Pride, Gluttony, Envy and Greed, all of which can be purchased through her online tea boutique alongside a large selection of rare teas and unique infusions. www.thegirlwiththegoldencup.com

WIN!

A three night stay for two people with Tregothnan!

Tregothnan Estate in Cornwall, the only producers of manuka honey outside of New Zealand, is giving one lucky flavour reader the chance to win a three-night stay for two people at one of their Wild Escapes selfcatering cottages in Cornwall with a Tregothnan hamper on arrival. To win, simply email competitions@ flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, telephone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

Terms & conditions: entry is free and no purchase is necessary. By entering this competition you are giving Tregothnan and flavour magazine permission to contact you at a future date. The prize is non-refundable, non-transferable, no alternative prize will be offered and there is no cash alternative. The draw is not open to employees of Tregothnan or flavour magazine, their families, agents or anyone professionally connected with the prize draw. All entries must be received by June 6th 2011. The prize winner will be selected at random and will be notified by email after the closing date. The winner will be offered a selection of dates when they may claim their prize, the property they stay at will be dependent on the date they select and may not be the property illustrated.

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> flavour news

WIN!

CRUNCH TIME

AN OLD & RARE WHISKY GIFT SET

With the English apple and cider seemingly on the comeback trail, celebrated chef Raymond Blanc has embraced the revival by announcing his intention to plant 20 acres of fruit trees at his hotel, Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons near Oxford. Here he intends to grow dozens of forgotten varieties of an Old English favourite.

To celebrate Father’s Day, the award-winning Whisky Tasting Company, the luxury whisky gift set specialists, have partnered with flavour to offer a lucky reader the chance to win the ultimate Father’s Day indulgence – an Old & Rare Whisky Gift Set.

Apple farming has been in mass decline since the 1970s and we only produce 150,000 tonnes of the fruit each year from our orchards. China in comparison produces 20 million tonnes.

The prize provides limited edition old single malts from each of Scotland’s five whisky regions.

Presented in a beautiful handfinished gift box, each single malt comes with a tasting card and a whisky tasting mat.

The set is the most indulgent way to learn about and enjoy the regional differences of Scotch whisky, appreciating some of Scotland’s finest examples that have been taken from individual casks and bottled at a premium strength of 50 per cent.

EXCLUSIVE FLAVOUR DISCOUNT! The Whisky Tasting Company is offering flavour readers a discount up to Father’s Day on June 19 – using a coupon code on their website. Please enter ‘FLAVOUR’ at the checkout when ordering. www.whiskytastingcompany.com

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With high profile chefs now taking an interest in our homegrown apples and cider especially becoming a trendy beverage, we may begin to see a swing in mindset of our own apple producers and a boost in UK orchard numbers.

LITRES THE AMOUNT OF WATER IT TAKES TO PRODUCE 1KG OF BEEF If that statistic comes as a surprise to you, then The Little Book of Shocking Food Facts may be a very interesting read. Combining thought provoking imagery with truly alarming information, this highly innovative handbook is an essential read for all you need to know about food production and consumption today.

The Little Book of Shocking Food Facts Craig Holden Feinberg and Dale Petersen Published by Fiell, RRP £8.95

> flavour news

WORD ON ET THE STRE SOCIAL CONSCIENCE? Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg has recently admitted that he slaughters his own meat before eating it. So far, he’s killed a chicken, pig and goat, which he and his girlfriend have cooked together.

WINNER! Congratulations to Rachel Levy from North London who wins a luxury break at Lucknam Park!

Zuckerberg’s new kill-what-you-eat philosophy is part of his ongoing project of developing personal challenges every year. His aim is to be thankful for the food he has to eat and not to forget that a living being has to die for its meat to become a meal.

He has taken on a mostly vegetarian lifestyle since the beginning of this challenge and claims to have developed a better understanding of where his food comes from.

With summer well and truly taking hold, make hay with June’s hottest new openings…

THE MADISON Rooftop, One New Change, St Paul’s, EC4M 9AF 0208 305 3088 From an early morning breakfast to an informal lunchtime meeting, Madison offers an elevated atmosphere for those who like a generous side order of history and culture with their daily paper, friends or colleagues.

QUINCE The May Fair Hotel, 70 Stratton Street, W1J 8LA 0207 915 3892 TV chef Silvena Rowe opens up an eastern-Mediterranean cuisine restaurant at this star-spotting celebrity haunt.

ROGANIC 19 Blandford Street, W1U 3DH 0207 486 0380 Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume is held up to be one of the best restaurants in the UK, so if anyone fancies trying his food but doesn’t want to trek to Cumbria, here’s your chance to try out his latest venture.

THE CHISWELL STREET DINING ROOMS 56 Chiswell Street, EC1Y 4SA 0207 614 0177

SUMMER SIGNING South West ice cream makers Marshfield Farm are pleased to welcome new team member Aeysha Mountford who will be championing their sweet treats in and around London. Marshfield are extremely excited about seeing their ice cream all over the city and have already been given the honour of providing ice cream for the guests at the Queen’s garden party – quite the scoop! www.marshfield-icecream.co.uk

The Martin brothers open the Chiswell Street Dining Rooms in the spring. The venue has a 100-cover restaurant serving modern British cuisine and a smaller bar area.

THE DINING ROOM AT THE PLAYBOY CLUB LONDON 14 Old Park Lane, Mayfair, W1K 1ND 0207 491 8586 Hugh Hefner returns to London with Iron Chef contestant Judy Joo who worked for two years with Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road heading up the kitchens.

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> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads PICK OF THE MONTH!

BOCCA COOKBOOK JACOB KENEDY Bloomsbury, £30

The genius behind Bocca di Lupo Jacob Kenedy, has now released Bocca, a tribute cookbook to his critically-acclaimed eatery. Twice awarded as London’s best restaurant, Bocca di Lupo is continuously packed out weeks in advance.

Jacob believes that to love eating is to love life, and that to love cooking is to love giving pleasure to other people and now with Bocca, readers can bring home a taste of the culinary genius to their own dining room table. Jacob Kenedy strives to bring Italian cooking back to its regional roots and reinvents it as only he knows how. Enjoy over 200 recipes which capture the rich diversity of regional specialities, as well as the witty anecdotes and fascinating stories.

Enjoy authentic Italian cooking at its most generous, exuberant and joyful.

BILL’S THE COOKBOOK: COOK, EAT, SMILE BILL COLLISON

PEGGY’S FAVOURITE CAKES AND COOKIES PEGGY PORSCHEN

GINGER PIG MEAT BOOK TIM WILSON & FRAN WARDE

Bill Collison first started his food revolution with a produce store in Sussex. What began as a small greengrocer’s shop is now a bustling, vibrant café packed with hungry customers, with stores in Lewes, Brighton, Reading and Covent Garden.

His reputation for always providing a unique and fun atmosphere coupled with delicious food, has caused hundreds of loyal customers to demand a cookbook showcasing the best of his menu. From scrumptious breakfasts to treats at twilight, Bill’s food is bursting with flavour texture and colour.

Ranging from the simple to the extraordinary, the traditional to the cutting edge, this book offers a dazzling selection of cookies and cakes which are perfect to impress with at every possible occasion.

From birthdays, anniversaries and weddings to just making teatime a special treat, these little delights will satisfy your every need and provide endless amounts of inspiration.

Peggy Porschen has created the sweetest of treats for celebrities such as Elton John, Stella McCartney and Madonna so rest assured that your homemade creations will be star-studded bites of perfection.

Ginger Pig Meat Book is the long-awaited book from the butchers that every discerning foodie turns to. Ginger Pig Meat Book is a new meat manual for a new generation of domestic and inquisitive cooks who want to know everything there is to know about buying, cooking and preparing meat.

The Ginger Pig has made its faultless reputation for rearing rare breed animals in the happiest of circumstances, on the finest stretch of the Yorkshire Moor. This book introduces the reader to more than 100 recipes arranged by seasons so you can learn what is best to buy and when.

Advice on butchering techniques and the best cuts is supplied by farmer and proprietor, Tim Wilson. An informative and delicious recipe book which should be on your kitchen shelves.

Saltyard Books, £25

Quadrille, £14.99

Mitchell Beazley, £25

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> flavour in season

>Asparagus In April we start to phone our asparagus growers to see how they're getting on. On the horizon is the thought that asparagus beds from Oxfordshire to Essex are coming to life. Nothing highlights seasonal eating more than a vegetable with a two-month lifespan.

Traditionally, asparagus is in season from St George’s Day (23rd April) until mid-June, and what better way is there to celebrate our national saint? Asparagus is the queen of vegetables so don’t mess around with it too much. Trim the woody ends, wash and cook until just tender. I’m sharing a recipe for a very old fashioned variation on Hollandaise sauce. Don’t be put off, it’s easy and soothing to make. You can use it with other vegetables such as purple sprouting broccoli and it’s lovely with fish. Blood oranges overlap the asparagus season only briefly so make the most of them both whilst you can.

At their best Every month our seasonal selections come from Cheryl Cohen, director of London Farmer’s Markets which runs 18 weekly markets throughout the city. She is on the board of London Food, works closely with the Farmers' Markets Retail association and with London Food Links.

>Rhubarb English rhubarb is a lovely vegetable. Delicate, slender stems of early rhubarb appearing in the shops should be cause for celebration. We love the appearance of rhubarb at markets after the long, cold winter.

Seeing cheery, beautiful bright pink stalks makes us think that spring perhaps isn’t too far away. Late in the season pair rhubarb with strawberries and rose syrup, in May it has to be orange flower water.

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right n

RHUBARB AND ORANGE FLOWER WATER PAVLOVA Makes 6 Preheat the oven to 120°C and have ready a baking sheet lined either with greaseproof paper or non-stick silicone. Grate the rind from 1 orange and put to one side. Put 3 egg whites in a scrupulously clean bowl and whisk until the mixture stands in stiff peaks. Divide 25g of caster sugar and add half to the mixture, whisking until shiny. Whisk in the rest of the sugar and the orange rind. Slacken 1 tbsp of corn flour in 1 tsp of white wine vinegar and add to the mix. Use a tablespoon to create a circle of meringue on the baking sheet or smaller circles if you want individual pavlovas. If it helps, draw a circle on the sheet to guide you. Use the back of the spoon to create a hollow in the centre.

Place in the oven for about an hour. Turn your oven up to 180°C. Wash 500g of rhubarb and trim the ends. Cut into finger length chunks and place in a non-metallic ovenproof dish. Cut 1 orange in half and squeeze the juice over the rhubarb. Sprinkle over the caster sugar, cover with foil and place in an oven for about 30 minutes. Keep an eye on it, you want the rhubarb to be soft, but not to the point of disintegration. Take out of the oven, sprinkle over 1 tsp of orange flower water and leave to cool. To assemble, whip 400ml of double cream until it forms soft peaks. Spoon onto the pavlova and decorate with the rhubarb. Serve each portion with a little of the fruit juices poured over.

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MALTAISE SAUCE Serves 4-6

(If blood oranges are out of season then use ½ a regular orange and one lemon) Whisk together 3 egg yolks with a good pinch of salt, a grind of white pepper and the zest and juice from 1 orange. You can either melt 175g of butter gently or dice it ready. In a bowl over a pan of boiling water, start to beat the egg yolk mixture with a balloon whisk or handheld electric beater until light and creamy. Add the cubes of butter or the melted butter in a thin stream and continue to whisk as it dissolves into the mixture. It will take about 5 minutes for the mixture to thicken but have faith; it will work. It should leave a trail if you pick up the whisk and let the mixture fall back into the bowl.

Taste and if necessary add a bit of lemon juice. It will sit over your hot water but won’t take to being reheated if it gets cold.

>Crab At the market you can find freshly caught crabs ready for you to prepare at home or if you don’t have the time to get covered in bits of shell, then you can buy it dressed and prepared in ready-to-go pots. As well as brown crab, look out for spider crabs which hide most of the meat in their legs or tiny velvet and soft shell crabs which can be fried and eaten whole or used in soup. It's messy, time consuming, delightful and delicious. We should eat more crab. I love summer rolls and use crab instead of the usual prawns. You’ll find rice paper wrappers, bean thread noodles and Thai basil at any good oriental shop.

For more information contact: www.lfm.org.uk www.twitter.com/londonfarmers

t now CRAB SUMMER ROLLS Makes 6 rolls Soak 50g of bean thread noodles in boiling water until soft for about 5 minutes. Drain and dry on kitchen paper and put back in a pot and mix with 1 tbsp of vinegar and a good pinch of salt and set aside. In a flat dish, soak 1 rice paper wrapper (6 needed in total) in hot water for about 20 seconds until soft. Remove to a clean tea towel and pat dry. Put a piece of lettuce or a few leaves on the bottom of ½3 of the wrapper, top with a spoonful of crab, a squeeze of lime juice, a handful of rice noodles and 3-4 pieces of your chosen vegetable such as julienne carrot, fennel, cucumber or spring onion and top with a few mint and basil leaves.

Very carefully, roll up the paper, bringing the sides in. It will seal itself. Put to one side and repeat with the next wrapper. Cut in half at a sharp angle and serve with the dipping sauce.

To make, mix 1 tbsp of rice vinegar, 1 tbsp of lime juice, 1 tbsp of fish sauce, ½ tbsp caster sugar and 1 small chilli, finely diced. Mix in a screw top jar until the sugar has dissolved.

Taste and add more vinegar or sugar to balance the flavour if needed.

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> flavour loves

gourmelli ourmelli offers a huge variety of top quality, speciality foods for the discerning customer, many of which are unobtainable elsewhere. From single estate peppers, oils, wines and salt plates for cooking and serving, there is a host of unusual, easy-touse items which are sure to bring new tastes to your kitchen for special occasions and every day.

G

Managing Director, Stephen continues to scour the world for rare and exciting ingredients to add to his current collection from Italy, France, Denmark, Canada, Madagascar and Java. He said: "We want to introduce our customers to some of the best-kept secrets of the food world, to offer them those magical extras that can turn a meal into a truly memorable feast."

Fruit-art

®

Strictly for use by creative chefs and food enthusiasts only, these delicious blackcurrant, liquorice, ginger or orange cavi-art can be used to decorate and flavour ice creams, desserts or even a glass of champagne.

Also available are the Wasabi, Belug.art®, Balsamico, Chilli and salmon flavours and all are guaranteed to impress.

Fruits in alcohol The fruits in alcohol selected by Gourmelli are sold in attractive glass jars and the beautiful fruits are preserved in the appropriate liqueur to make the finest summer dessert.

There is nothing more refreshing than fruit in alcohol with real dairy ice cream. The range is to be extended to include Figs in Vodka, Pears in Pear Brandy and a superb selection of fruits in Jamaican Rum.

Baba’s There are ten variations of the Baba including the infamous Rum Baba, along with Baba au Chocolate liqueur, Baba au Calvados, Baba au Limoncello, Baba au Grand-Marnier, Baba au Chartreuse, Baba au Cointreau, Baba au Cognac. Baba au Armagnac and Baba au Genepi. They are ideal as a dessert or with an after dinner coffee, bringing you continental decadence at its best.

Gourmelli | The Old Coach House | Turvey | Beds | MK43 8EN

www.gourmelli.co.uk

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> flavour loves

simply ICE CREAM Simply Ice Cream is a Kent-based luxury ice cream producer, based in Bonnington near Ashford. The range has been dreamt up by founder Sally Newall and is made by a small team producing ice cream the old fashioned way; by hand, in small batches using locally sourced ingredients, natural flavours and seasonal fruits.

Simply Ice Creams are free from syrups, mixers, additives or preservatives, offering just pure natural goodness and flavour. Suitable for all the family, the ice creams are vegetarian-friendly and the large majority are gluten-free for everyone to enjoy.

Ice cream lovers can enjoy 22 different flavours, which are now widely available across London and the South East in restaurants, delis, tearooms and fine food stores, including Waitrose and John Lewis.

W LO E VE

Heavenly Honeycomb Crunch Real honeycomb pieces made in Simply Ice Cream’s kitchens provide sweet caramel toffee flavours and a crunchy texture for this Great Taste Gold award-winning ice cream.

Raspberry Locally sourced Kent raspberries give this variety a burst of fruit flavours and textures.

Stem Ginger and Marmalade Homemade thin shred marmalade and stem ginger is whipped into creamy indulgent ice cream, giving this variety rich orangey flavours with a mild and sweet ginger spice.

Lemon Curd Tangy Lemon Curd ice cream is delicious when served with summer berries and meringue.

All flavours are available in 120ml and 500ml tubs.

www.simplyicecream.co.uk

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r e m m u S food festivals Time to get planning with our roundup of the foodie festivals not to be missed this summer!

TASTE OF LONDON, Regent’s Park (16-19 June) Taste of London is the UK’s largest openair food and drink festival. More than 40 establishments are confirmed as well as chefs including Gary Rhodes, Michel Roux Jr and Silvena Rowe. Tickets cost from £22 when booked in advance.

THE HENLEY FESTIVAL, London (6-10 July)

HARVEST AT JIMMY’S, Ipswich (9-12 September)

Get involved in this black-tie event on the banks of the Thames. Father-and-son team Albert and Michel Roux Jr will be cooking three courses for £110 from their ‘Riverside Restaurant’ tent, while Heston Blumenthal will bring his Hinds Head pub to Henley. Tom Jones, Jools Holland and Alexandra Burke will also perform from a floating stage on the river. Tickets start from £35.

The brainchild of ex-Blur-bassistturned-cheesemaker Alex James and farmer-and-TV-presenter Jimmy Doherty, Harvest boasts performances by singer Eliza Doolittle and DJ Jo Whiley as well as cookery demos by cook Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall and Viajante’s Nuno Mendes.

Browse the farmers’ market or indulge yourself at Mark Hix’s Champagne and seafood bar. Luxury yurts with butler service are available for those who want to see out the summer in style.

www.henley-festival.co.uk

www.harvestatjimmys.com

The Big Feastival is a new event on the festival calendar combining mouthwatering food from some of the country’s top chefs with a top drawer selection of the finest live music acts around. Feastival is all about the best things in life – friends, families, great food and drink and amazing live music. Food is included in the standard ticket price, kids can go free.

THE GREAT BRITISH BEER FESTIVAL, Earls Court (2-6 August)

TAPAS FANTASTICAS WINE FESTIVAL, Potters Fields Park, London (25-26 June)

www.bigfeastival.co.uk

www.gbbf.camra.org.uk

www.tastefestivals.com

THE BIG FEASTIVAL, Clapham Common (1-3 July)

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Britain’s biggest beer festival once again brings together a wide range of real ales, ciders, perries and international beers.

Rioja Tapas Fantasticas is an awardwinning festival celebrating Rioja wine, Spanish food and lifestyle. Taste a spectacular variety of red, white and rosé wines from some of Rioja’s most famous

> flavour summer food festivals

AMAZING THAILAND FESTIVAL, Surrey (27-29 August)

vineyards as you make your way around the vibrant wine and tapas stalls. Savour a diverse selection of tapas food from London’s finest Spanish restaurants, enjoy live Spanish music, cookery demonstrations and learn more about Rioja at wine tasting workshops.

The Mudita Trust runs this vibrant festival, a UK registered charity raising funds to help underprivileged children in Thailand.

Enjoy amazing food cooked in the Thai street market, irresistible shopping at the Thai craft stalls and enjoy fun-filled entertainment including Thai dancing and martial arts demonstrations, plus lots more! www.secretts.co.uk www.muditatrust.com

www.riojatapasfantasticas.co.uk

THE BIG CHEESE, Caerphilly (29-31 JULY) Set in the shadows of one of Europe’s largest castles, the town of Caerphilly comes to life as people of all ages come to The Big Cheese, an extravaganza of street entertainers, living history encampments, music, dance, traditional funfair, folk dancing, falconry, fire eating, minstrels, troubadours and much more. Portraying the history, heritage and culture of Caerphilly, The Big Cheese weekend is a free event. www.caerphilly.gov.uk/bigcheese

THE FIELD TO FORK SHOW, Hampshire (30-31 July) Laverstoke Park Farm’s Field to Fork Show, in association with Sainsbury’s combines county show with food festival and features the Professional and Amateur British BBQ Championships.

Saturday sees chef James Martin heading up the judging and Sunday sees a stellar line up of restaurants - fresh from round one at Taste of London - battle it out to impress some of the UK’s most feared food critics, refereed by Nigel Barden. www.fieldtoforkshow.com

BRIGHTON AND HOVE FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL, Venues across the city (1-30 September) The Brighton & Hove Food and Drink Festival is a month-long celebration of Sussex and gourmet food and drink, and is the biggest food festival in the south of England. Featuring epic local markets, chef theatres and live food events, a three- day Sussex Oktoberfest, Champagne & Sussex Sparkling Wine Festival, Restaurant Week and a boutique food festival weekend there really is something for every foodie in Brighton this September.

LUDLOW FOOD FESTIVAL, Shropshire (9-11 Sep) Held every year in Ludlow, Shropshire, the small town with the large reputation for good food and drink - this year’s festival features more than 150 top quality small independent food and drink producers. Ludlow is famed for its food culture, great produce and quality restaurants and people from all over the UK and Europe come to the food festival. There are plenty of free activities, demonstrations and workshops to get your teeth stuck into. www.foodfestival.co.uk

www.brightonfoodfestival.com

NEWLYN FISH FESTIVAL, Cornwall (29 August) Celebrate all things fishy on August 29th in one of Cornwall’s most distinctive and original fishing villages. Satisfy your appetite at the seafood barbeque whilst enjoying the live entertainment and bidding at the seafood auction. August Bank Holiday Monday sees the annual Cornish celebration of the sea, fishing and seafood at the Newlyn Fish Festival. This year is promising to be better than ever including top chefs, fish auctions and live music. www.newlynfishfestival.org.uk

SOIL ASSOCIATION ORGANIC FOOD FESTIVAL, Bristol (3-4 September)

ABERGAVENNY FOOD FESTIVAL, Wales (17-18 September)

This is the biggest organic festival in Europe. Enjoy quality organic produce, celebrity chef demos, gorgeous health and beauty products as well as great music and of course, loads of fantastic street food to enjoy when you are there.

The Abergavenny Food Festival is all about sensory extremes and subtle contrasts.

See passionate performers, soap-box rants and electric debate. Savour the delights of fishing at dawn or dancing at dusk. There’s so much on offer; from an unrivalled foodie shopping experience to top-end masterclasses, there really is something for everyone.

www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk

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www.thegirlwiththegoldencup.com

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> flavour purbeck

purbeck

ice cream T VISI ON M E TH AND ST 8!

S0

Known for being the type of affair where both tradition and innovation make up the menu, this year’s Taste of London Festival will be counting on stand holder Purbeck Ice Cream to mix things up with aplomb…

Made on the Dorset farm overlooking Corfe Castle and the rolling hills beyond, Purbeck Ice Cream is the result of a dedicated, small and friendly team’s labour. Using local fresh milk and thick double cream and only the very best natural ingredients with no artificial additives, gluten, GMOs, eggs, added colours or nuts, theirs is certainly a scoop worth shouting about.

The Purbeck Ice Cream team have been busy mixing some innovative new flavours to join their existing range of entirely natural ice creams and thanks to a brand new events vehicle (aka The Tardis), visitors to this year’s Taste of London can sample their cool concoctions to find their favourite.

If that weren’t exciting enough, The Tardis also boasts a peephole where you can put your head through to resemble a cartoon cow!

New taste sensations this year include tiramasu - a delicious combination of fresh milk and thick double cream, blended together with intense Italian sponge soaked in Marsala wine creating

a rich and satisfying experience that is smooth, silky and extremely tasty.

Another inspirational new flavour this year is the delectable banoffee ripple made with rich and creamy banana ice cream laced with lashings of dulce de leche ripple sauce.

The two flavours naturally complement one another providing the perfect balance in taste and quality.

Those with an adventurous palate will be particuarly interested in trying a very zany new addition to the range...

Beetroot and horseradish was born from an idea from Julie Cohen – the acclaimed author of Getting Away With It, a novel about identical twins who make ice cream. One twin jests about making beetroot and horseradish but later decides to try it and finds it perfectly palatable, we have too and find it delectable served with a sumptuous chocolate desert or with roast beef! www.purbeckicecream.co.uk

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SPICE MOUNTAIN Magali Russie, from a position of little experience in the food and drinks industry, started Spice Mountain at Borough Market when her passion for spices, acquired from her Mauritius background, turned into her profession when she became redundant from her last job a couple of years ago. And she hasn’t looked back since.

Borough Market plays a vital role in the development of small food businesses in London, providing them with a means to establish themselves amongst a vast and diverse network of fellow traders.

Spice Mountain represents the new generation of traders Borough Market is embracing as it evolves to meet the demands of today’s shoppers and trade customers. Magali’s success as a stallholder in Borough Market has encouraged her to take the next step and offer her exquisite range of spices to businesses as a wholesaler. This is an excellent example of a local business that provides affordability to our shoppers and, as Magali will be roasting her spices in the market soon, we couldn’t wish for a more direct link between a producer, their product and the customers.

Glenis Reagon Borough Market Managing Director

“The atmosphere at the market is great and the variety and quality of the produce available there is unrivalled,” she says. “The knowledge and enthusiasm of the customers, coupled with that of the stall holders, is in my opinion what makes the market so special.

This is not always possible, however, so occasionally she does have to rely on professional referrals of suppliers in the UK. As to the use of the spices, Magali has one simple rule: “A little goes a long way!” a philosophy she has learned

I know Spice Mountain is offering a superior quality product both in terms of freshness and taste which is something the supermarkets cannot compete with.

“It is a rare environment in which shoppers can discuss the products they are buying directly from people who are passionate about what they are selling.”

What makes Magali’s spices so unique is that they are all made fresh to order in small batches, which means the products on the stall are never more than two or three weeks old.

Wherever possible the spices are sourced directly from the farms where they are grown, whether these are in Mexico, India, Mauritius, Madagascar, Morocco, etc.

Whenever time allows it, Magali likes to visit these farms to be able to see firsthand the quality of the produce so she knows exactly what she is buying.

Borough Market, 8 Southwark Street, London SE1 1TL

well over time. “I think it is easy for people to go overboard, especially for those who are relatively inexperienced when it comes to cooking with these extra flavours, so this is my basic rule by which I cook and test all my spices.

“You can always add a little bit more if you are not entirely happy with the flavour, but you cannot take it out once it’s in!”

Spice Mountain now hopes to expand its existing Internet business and the new website will be launched in the next few weeks. They are also looking to expand the wholesale business in the UK. For all Magali’s favourite recipes and for more information, visit www.spicemountain.co.uk

www.boroughmarket.org.uk

the living room tower bridge 20

> flavour the living room

Located in St Katherine Docks, the brand new The Living Room Tower Bridge is fast becoming a favourite amongst London’s discerning diners and those seeking high quality fresh food and cocktails in a stylish environment. The relaxed elegance of the surroundings and live pianists provide the perfect setting for all occasions, from intimate meals to special celebrations but one aspect of The Living Room Tower Bridge that has not yet been noticed is the wine selection. That is, until now….

Wine has always been important to The Living Room and quality bottles have always been available. However, until fairly recently, the wine list has taken second fiddle to the incredibly welldesigned and carefully-researched cocktail menu. These days, with a new wine menu on the tables, customers are finding great examples of the usual favourites listed alongside some really interesting boutique wines sourced from all corners of the globe. flavour has been sampling some of these gems and we have picked out a few of our favourites that will suit this fantastic weather we are having!

A2O Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain As the days get longer and the sun comes out we start to look towards light, refreshing whites to quench our thirst. The A2O Albarino from Galicia is just the ticket. Albarino has become a very trendy wine in recent years and for very good reason. Its principle features are its wonderfully zesty minerality and its delicate, aromatic fruit.

This particular wine leaps out of the glass with its fresh, apricot-scented nose and over-delivers on the palate with a long, lingering finish.

It is a perfect wine to drink with seafood. Try it with the Living Room’s grilled sardine fillets or pan-seared scallops.

Springfield Estate Sauvignon Blanc Special Cuvée, Robertson, South Africa

Alois Lageder Moscato Giallo, Alto Adige, Italy

Another hugely popular wine in recent years has been Sauvignon Blanc. The tropical-tasting versions from New Zealand’s Marlborough Valley have led the way but in the Springfield Estate Special Cuvée there is the opportunity to try something very different.

The flavours here are more measured and more refined.

The current vintage of this wine was a particularly good one in South Africa and as a result we get fantastically grassy, nettly aromas and a clean, zesty finish. Try this wine with the whole, grilled lemon sole – heaven!

In our opinion, any wine list with one or more wines from iconic winemaker Alois Lageder deserves attention. He makes his wines in a solarpowered, state-ofthe-art winery in the mountainous region of Alto Adige and he produces some outstanding varieties.

The Moscato Giallo is one of the best. It is extremely delicate with a delightfully floral aroma and a honeyed finish.

As in all of Lageder’s wines there is a perfect balance of acidity and clean, pronounced fruit.

On a recent visit, one person in the group said it was like a bright, spring day in a glass. What more could you want at this time of year? Enjoy!

d’Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier/ Marsanne, MacLaren Vale, Australia From the ever-popular Sauvignon Blanc to a couple of lesser-known, but no less exciting, grape varieties. The Hermit Crab, from legendary winemaker Chester Osborne at d’Arenberg, is a heady and wonderfully aromatic blend of Viognier and Marsanne.

The wine is refreshing and zesty and at the same time full-bodied and complex. The foremost flavours are peach, apricot and pear but after a few sips you start to notice some background notes of ginger, sweet spice and toasted pine nuts. Order a bottle of this and a seared breast of guinea fowl and you will be very, very happy!

The Living Room Tower Bridge Unit 1, Tower Bridge House East Smithfield London E1W 1AA 0207 702 4210 www.thelivingroom.co.uk

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. . . e n i v e p a r G

Onthe

A food writer and wine consultant, Zeren Wilson will leave no stone unturned in his quest to find the hidden gems of London’s food scene and bring it to you on a plate. Check out Zeren’s restaurant review site for a taste of what he has to offer: www.bittenandwritten.com

Hot off the press...

Pitt Cue Co. is smokin' on the Southbank for the Festival of Britain until midSeptember. Pulled shoulder of Gloucester Old Spot pork, rotisserie chicken, smoked corn, longhorn brisket with house dill pickles, all from a custom-made smoker from the USA. Whizz-kid chef Tom Adams and Jamie Berger are the smoke doctors in residence. A Twitter buzz has accompanied the opening with bloggers in a frenzy.

Follow their daily updates on: @PittCueCo.

Gorgeous Grapes Rocher des Violettes, Pétillant Originel, Montlouis-sur-Loire 2008 £17

Pollen Street Social

The Polpo family of restaurants gives birth to another baby on 2nd June, swiftly on the heels of Spuntino in Soho. Expect a Polpo-esque menu in a two-level dining room.

The Rare Tea Company founder Henrietta Lovell, guru of fine tea, gave a masterclass in the subtle nuances of proper tea, at The Engineer pub in Primrose Hill. All for the charity www.thehopefoundation.org. Oolong in a cocktail of pot distilled Venezuelan rum? Oh yeah!

London's cocktail scene is buzzing right now. The Whistling Shop is a temple to the glories of Gin. Newly opened on Worship Street EC2, expect a flurry of boutique gins in a speakeasy atmosphere.

More cocktail fun sees another concept launch with VOC, a modern day update of the East Indian Punch House originally found in 17th-century Java. Barrel-aged punches, cocktails and aged spiced rum descended on King's Cross in late April.

Pirates may rejoice.

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Jason Atherton, formerly of Maze, is delighting us with his ambitious opening of Pollen Street Social. His Mayfair restaurant is the realisation of a dream to run his own place. High-end Michelin-quality food for sure, without the formal frippery usually involved. The hub is the Social Room Bar, always unreserved seating, a place for a fine Martini made with love, as well as sampling food from a graduate of El Bulli. "We are trying to be a fun, modern bistro, with a great cocktail bar and fun vibe to hang out," Jason told me. Talk about underselling yourself!

Atherton flexes his fine dining credentials in cerebral dishes like cauliflower squid, a back-to-front risotto which sees tender cubes of squid in place of rice. English breakfast is a clever riff on flavours of a classic, slow-cooked egg punctuated with salty shards of Alsace bacon and liquid toasted bread sauce. Less artsy dishes come as a stellar côte de boeuf from their own ageing room downstairs, with glorious duck fat chips. Lobster mash delivers huge hunks of sweet claw meat, with naughty butter-laden mash. Wine list is a gem, from elfin Head Sommelier Laure Patry.

The dessert bar is a cute feature, where you can watch the chefs prepare their wizardry.

It's social, it's fine dining in another guise.

Power to the people.

An exciting and elegant sparkler from one of the hottest wine merchants in the UK right now.

Aubert and Mascoli are importing stunning bio-dynamic wines from France and Italy, and their wines are now in many of London's top restaurants.

Produced in the same way as Champagne with the Méthode Champenoise, this 100 per cent Chenin Blanc is a supreme effort, elegant and poised, great mineral focus, and purity of brisk, lemony fruit. Champagne in a Loire disguise. www.aubertandmascoli.com

www.bittenandwritten.com Follow Zeren on Twitter: @bittenwritten

> flavour orient express

A word from the author…

Orient Express is the next chapter in my long love affair with the cuisine of the Eastern Mediterranean. My inspiration for this book came from the street foods that can be found on almost every corner of every town and city. Istanbul, Ankara and Gaziantep, Beirut, Damascus and Aleppo, Cairo and Amman. In these places the food was enjoyed for its simplicity and ease; standing where it was bought, or perching on a wall, people would gather, eat and talk. From gözleme and börek, to pilaf and shawarma, all are served with the generous, warm hospitality

of the Eastern Mediterranean people. Always sharing, always giving, even when they have little for themselves, I was always made to feel welcome.

Orient Express is all about sharing, so I’ve designed recipes that will serve six or eight smaller dishes, allowing you to dip in and out of the flavour-themed chapters and create your very own Eastern Mediterranean feast. So invite a few friends, get comfortable, share some stories and enjoy the food. ..

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> flavour orient express

Duck, haloumi and green chilli spring rolls with sweet potato and almond skordalia For the skordalia 1 large sweet potato, peeled and cubed 2 garlic cloves, crushed Juice of 1 lemon 1 tbsp ground almonds 5 tbsp olive oil For the spring rolls 1 tbsp olive oil 4 duck leg quarters, cut into small pieces 1 tsp ground cumin Small bunch fresh mint, chopped 1 bay leaf 4 shallots, sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 100ml chicken stock Small bunch of fresh parsley, chopped 200g haloumi cheese, crumbled 3 small green chillies, deseeded & sliced 12 sheets of filo pastry (20cm x 20cm) 5–6 tbsp butter, melted 1 tbsp za’atar (available from Bart Spices) Cook the sweet potato in boiling water for 20 minutes until soft. Drain and mash in a bowl, then add the garlic, lemon and ground almonds. While stirring, drizzle in the olive oil until well mixed in and season.

Watermelon and cherry tomato salad with feta, almond and za’atar crumble There is nothing that reminds me more of home than watermelons, great mountains of them piled up in the market. And there is nothing better than a heavily chilled watermelon slice on a hot summer afternoon. With this in mind I created this salad. It’s very simple and absolutely delicious. Make sure you use perfectly ripe watermelon and tomatoes.

For 8 to share For the salad ½ medium watermelon, peeled and cut into chunky cubes 200g cherry tomatoes, halved Small bunch of fresh mint, leaves only For the crumble 200g feta cheese, crumbled 100g almonds, lightly toasted and crushed 1 tsp za’atar

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To serve Fresh bread White nasturtiums or if unavailable use herb flowers Combine the salad ingredients in a large serving bowl. Mix together the crumble ingredients and sprinkle on top of the salad. Sprinkle with white nasturtium flowers. Serve with fresh bread.

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/gas mark 6. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof dish.

Add the duck pieces, cumin, mint, garlic and shallots and cook for 5 minutes, until the meat is lightly browned. Add the stock, cover and cook in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the duck is tender and cooked through. Remove the duck and place to one side until cool, then pull the meat off the bones and shred it into a bowl, discarding the skin and bones. Mix in the parsley, haloumi cheese and green chillies. Add 6 tbsp of the cooking juices.

Turn the oven up to 200°C fan/gas mark 7. Place a large filo sheet on your work surface, brush with butter, then fold in two. Spoon some of the mixture in and gently spread along the edge. Fold in the sides to enclose the filling, then roll away from you to get a neat spring roll. Repeat with the remaining filo sheets. Arrange the pastry rolls on a baking tray, brush with the melted butter and sprinkle with the za’atar. Bake in the oven for 5–6 minutes, until golden. Serve the spring rolls hot, with the sweet potato and almond skordalia, and sprinkle the skordalia with some za’atar. Makes 12 10cm long rolls.

> flavour orient express

Skordalia is a Greek garlicky sauce or dip, usually made from either potatoes or bread. For a distinctive modern take on this traditional sauce I use sweet potato.

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> flavour orient express

Lemon balm sorbet, black sesame macaroon crumble and lemon balm oil For the sorbet 600ml water 160ml light corn syrup Small bunch of lemon balm, leaves only 110g caster sugar Juice of 2 lemons for the crumble 50g ground black sesame seeds 80g ground almonds 220g icing sugar 3 medium egg whites 2 tbsp caster sugar For the oil 1 bunch lemon balm 100ml rapeseed oil To serve 12–16 small lemon balm leaves 1 day in advance Blend the water and syrup together in a food processor or a blender.

Pour into a saucepan

and heat gently. Remove from the heat just before it boils. Add the lemon balm leaves, sugar and lemon juice. Stir until the sugar dissolves and allow to cool. You can leave the balm leaves in or discard as you choose. Using an ice cream machine, churn the mixture as per your machine’s instructions, for about 40–45 minutes.

Otherwise, place the mixture in a plastic container, cover and place in the freezer.

You’ll need to stir the sorbet every half an hour until it’s set.

To make the crumble Preheat the oven to 150°C fan/gas mark 3½. Blend the sesame seeds, ground almonds and

icing sugar in a food processor. Whisk the egg whites to hard peaks, add the caster sugar and continue whisking until glossy.

Fold the sesame mixture into the egg whites a little at a time. Line and lightly grease a 20 x 27cm baking tray. Spread the macaroon mixture over the tray – it should be about 2cm thick. Bake in the oven for 45 minutes. When cool break into small pieces and put to one side until needed.

To make the oil Place the lemon balm into a food processor and blend until finely chopped.

Add the rapeseed oil and pulse briefly to combine. Pour the mixture through a sieve and discard the solids, reserving only the scented oil.

To serve Arrange a few pieces of the macaroon crumble on each plate. Spoon on some lemon balm sorbet, drizzle with a touch of lemon balm oil, then scatter more of the crumble on top. Garnish with lemon balm leaves and serve.

Orient Express is published

by Hutchinson, RRP £20 26

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> flavour rachel allen

This month we talk to the woman affectionately known as the ‘Irish cooking Queen’ about her hometown, easy entertaining and making baking sexy…

Why did you choose to attend the Ballymaloe Cookery School at the age if 18?

One summer holiday I helped out a friend with some outside catering and I loved it. I concluded that even if I went on to do something else, I should know how to cook.

Ballymaloe has always been very well known in Ireland so I applied there. I didn’t know very much about their ethos at the time, other than it was an organic farm, but the little I did know I intrigued me.

10 questions with...

Rachel Allen What style of cooking did it instil in you?

When you go to do a course at Ballymaloe you go right back to basics and you learn all the techniques from scratch. I thought we would be making quite elaborate dishes but instead we learned to make things like a simple potato and fresh herb soup, bread, pastries – I loved every minute.

How has Irish cuisine developed do you think?

Compared to a lot of countries we don’t have a cuisine as such, though Irish food tends to be more about the produce now, it’s what chefs seem to rave about as well as our long-standing use of offal which has become more popular again.

What kind of local produce do you enjoy from County Cork where you live?

We’ve got fantastic seafood so I love cooking with our fish and shellfish. We also have some great salami makers, beef farmers, vegetables growers and a huge choice of amazing cheeses. The region’s dairy and the seafood are the definitely some of the best around.

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> flavour rachel allen

Where would you recommend to tourists on the hunt for good food?

I am a little biased but I would definitely say to visit the restaurant at Ballymaloe House followed by a stroll around their lovely gardens where a lot of the produce comes from. There’s a great farmers’ market in Middleton on Saturday mornings and another fabulous new one in Douglas on the same day. The old English market in Cork is supposed to be one of the largest covered markets in Europe, and that’s quite an experience too. Finally, there’s a great vegetarian restaurant in Cork called Café Parisien, it’s a great stopoff once you’ve been round the market.

You’re portrayed as a home cook, have you spent time in a restaurant environment?

I did years ago after I first trained, but then I moved into teaching and now I consider myself to be more of a cookery teacher, which is really my calling I think. When I’m teaching I always try to remember how I felt when I was enrolled there, so if I’m talking about an ingredient, I’ll try to put it in context by talking about the great places I’ve eaten it in and what flavours you can combine it with – a big part of it is inspiring people.

Your last book, Entertaining at Home seems to be about taking the pressure out of being a good host; is that a problem a lot of people suffer with?

Definitely – our lives are just so hectic now aren’t they? The thought of coming home to children who haven’t done their homework, a house that needs tidying, a meal that needs cooking then guests that need entertaining can be a bit daunting and terrifying. The mistake a lot of people make is thinking they have to cook a restaurant worthy meal, when if you invite friends round for a ‘casual supper’, then expectations are readjusted from all sides.

Try cooking something like a lamb tagine or a warming chicken casserole and the evening can be just cosy and lovely.

What store cupboard ingredients couldn’t you live without?

Extra virgin olive oil, Maldon sea salt, various types of tinned beans, chorizo and garlic, am I allowed more?

Baking is enjoying a real renaissance at the moment, why do think that is?

I’d put it down to a few things actually. I think Nigella Lawson is a person who can take a lot of the credit for making baking sexy. The economic downturn has also

TIRAMISU This classic Italian dessert is very straightforward to prepare yet looks impressive layered up in individual glasses.

Serves 6 Vegetarian Ingredients 1 egg yolk 1 tbsp caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 x 250g tub of mascarpone 200ml (7fl oz) double or regular cream 200ml (7fl oz) strong black coffee, such as espresso 2 tbsp brandy 10–12 boudoir biscuits (sponge fingers), each broken into 3 pieces 1–2 tbsp cocoa powder, for dusting Six medium glasses Method 1 Place the egg, sugar and vanilla extract in a large bowl and whisk to a creamy consistency. Add the mascarpone and cream and continue to whisk until smooth and creamy.

played its part because it’s comforting, cheap and makes a great gift. I often meet people who say that they have a ‘Baking Friday’ in work where everyone brings in their favourite cake – I love that!

What’s the easiest show stopper in the book?

There’s a recipe for duck legs with a white bean and rosemary purée and wilted

2 In a separate bowl, mix together the coffee and brandy. Dip 2–3 pieces of the boudoir biscuits into the coffee and brandy (just long enough to absorb the liquid, but not so long that they fall apart) and put into the bottom of one of the six glasses. Repeat for the remaining glasses.

3 Add 1 tablespoon of the mascarpone and cream mixture to cover the biscuits in each glass. Follow this with another layer of 2–3 biscuit pieces, dipped again in the coffee and brandy, finishing with another layer of mascarpone and cream.

4 Dust each glass with cocoa powder and place in the fridge to chill for at least 1 hour (or up to 24 hours). Take out of the fridge 10 minutes or so before serving (so they aren’t too chilled) and dust with a little more cocoa powder to serve.

greens with garlic and anchovy crumbs – that’s so seasonal and trust me, so simple too! ■

www.rachelallen.co.uk 29

> flavour power of 3

3

THE POWER OF Underground restaurants are all the rave with something for everyone to tuck into. This month Nick Harman sneaks into the subterranean world to find three of the best...

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> flavour the power of 3

ne The Ginger Li

The Clove Club

s Shacklewell Night

Pictured left-hand page!

Hip things happen in Hackney.

This end of London is where all the cool stuff seems to congregate and on an unassuming side street, in a flat like any other, foodies are finding nirvana.

What unites Highbury, West Croydon, Crystal Palace and Dalston? A railway line, that’s what. These far-flung parts of London have been brought together by two tracks of metal and an engine.

The line is often called The Ginger Line and recently some residents on its trendy tracks got together to celebrate the link by holding supper clubs at places along the route. And it’s not just about food; good old art gets a look in too.

The team organises food and space but you have to trust them totally. When you book all you’re told is that when the time comes you’ll be given the address. As the venue has to be within walking distance of one of the stations on the line, you at least know you won’t have to walk far, but you won’t know where until an hour before kick-off.

What do you eat and what do you see?

It changes every time. The food is always seasonal and you might whet your appetite with bashed crab claw with garlic and lemon mayonnaise. Some roasted Jerusalem artichoke soup with crème fraiche, spinach and wild garlic pesto croutons could follow and after that catch-of-the-day pie with prawns, pollack and smoked haddock.

The Clove Club is largely the food child of James Lowe, head chef at Spitalfield’s St John’s Bread and Wine, and things start well as a glass of Bisol Prosecco is thrust into the hand. Some seriously good nibbles such as deep fried pig’s skin, with an apple & wild fennel dip and smoked cod’s roe, soon flow out from the chefs beavering away at the back of the room.

Music is curated by DJs to match the mood and that mood is relaxed and smart. There could be up to 30 people in the room, but the cool vibe means everyone soon gets chatting. After all, we’re all united by a love of food.

Shacklewell Nights has all the right credentials to be an underground supper club. It’s based in Dalston as all good supper clubs have to be, no Notting Hill hoorays over here, and it was founded in a factory. Now the trenderati have moved in, these large spaces are getting a new and well-deserved lease of life.

The suppers only happen twice a month, so you need to be on the mailing list or lurking on Twitter if you hope to get a seat.

The event is the baby of Claire Robertson, herself a prolific blogger, who has moved more into food and away from the day job, much to her guests’ happiness. Cooking is in the very capable hands of Jonathan Woolway of St John.

Menus change, as do guest chefs, but you can be sure of one thing – a fine meal at a very reasonable price and, as at all these unlicensed venues, you bring your own booze.

The nights take place in secret locations and as usual it’s BYO, but of course as the evening wears on bottles get shared as well as experiences, stories and laughs. You may have come as a couple or in a small group, but before long you’ll be chatting away to perfect strangers, reluctant to go home.

You could eat lightly pickled mackerel, rhubarb and oats for a starter, followed by Stinking Bishop cheese served with halved Jersey Royals and cooked nettles.

Mains could be braised ox cheek, beetroot and horseradish and the desserts won’t disappoint.

The food breaks down barriers and is often sharing platters - watercress, braised beef and swede perhaps, pot roast Gloucester Old Spot, butter beans, wild garlic and cider with Neal’s Yard cheeses and chocolate terrine to follow.

You’ll be feasting your eyes too; art abounds as an eclectic mix of Hoxton trendies and West Croydon wide boys all get together for a big night out. If you’re into food with art for extra, The Ginger Line is a hot ticket.

Flush with new friends and full of unusual, exciting food, you’ll leave The Clove Club with a spring in your step, just mind those narrow stairs on the way down.

Shacklewell Nights will be a part of a five-night residency at restaurants in Canary Wharf as part of the Create Festival, a great chance to sample more of what the thriving underground scene is coming up with.

www.gingerline.co.uk

www.thecloveclub.com

www.shacklewellnights.com

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As a member of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, The Three Stags prides itself on sourcing the best seasonal and sustainable produce available. This month owner Richard Bell gives us an insight into his extensive food and drink menu, drawing on his passion for matching the two very nicely…

67-69 Kennington Road London SE1 7PZ 0207 928 5974 www.thethreestags.org

the three stags

“I took my first wine course back in the 1980s and I have always remembered the teacher Malcolm. He was a very tough East End guy who, in his own right, was an absolute connoisseur.

It was great having someone so downto-earth talking about the fine art of wine without trying to sell it to you.

I remember the two main things he taught me; firstly, after a lifetime of studying wine he had only touched the surface; secondly, even though tradition dictates that red wine is paired with red meat and white wine with fish, it doesn’t have to be that way. If you enjoy swigging Liebfraumilch whilst munching carrot sticks, then enjoy it and don’t let anyone tell you differently.

The same principle applies to beer.

Some pubs match beers with each dish on the menu, which can be very helpful as they usually have hundreds of them to choose from. But just remember it’s not an exact science.

The main thing is that you enjoy them…”

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> flavour

the three stags

Old Speckled Hen (4.5%) with a meaty burger…

St Edmunds (4.2%) with a summer salad…

Green King IPA (3.6%) with sausage and mash…

The most popular bitter in the land as advertised on TV and loved by CAMRA. Rich in colour with superb fruity aromas complemented by a full, complex, yet deliciously smooth blend of nutty, hoppy flavours. Speckled Hen goes notoriously well with cheeses and is also perfect alongside The Three Stags mouthwatering, rare-breed, Welsh black beef tower of a burger.

Served with beer battered onion rings, a beef tomato, crispy Batavia lettuce and a marinated dill driver gherkin, all nestled between lightly toasted sesame buns with a buttering of aioli.

A fresh, golden beer crafted for modern tastes using traditional brewing methods. Pale malts and Cascade hops make this a light and refreshing brew with a crisp, citrus finish and is perfect for summer drinking. A bright, refreshing, zesty ale, it is best accompanied with the crispy summer salad from Secrett’s Farm. Butterhead lettuce, marinated fennel, goat’s cheese with red, golden and choiggia beetroots (roasted then pan fried with balsamic syrup) and finished with a lively pomegranate dressing.

A delicious nod to the warmer weather.

IPA is a great tasting session pint characterised by its clean and fresh hoppy taste and distinctive tawny colour, with a clean bitter finish.

A light ale that easily absorbs the mellow juiciness of the savoury Chiltern Farm pork sausages, which are gently browned in a pan then roasted very slowly. A lighter take on a more wintry choice.

Chapel Down Bacchus 2010 with Surrey asparagus, Cornish potatoes, Taleggio, pancetta & soft poached duck egg...

Pinot Noir D’Autrefois 2009 with slow-roasted pork belly…

A classic expression of Bacchus grown in the South East of England. The wine shows grapefruit, gooseberry, passionfruit, floral and mineral characters on the nose with tropical fruits, nettles and crunchy acid on the palate. Perfect for summer drinking and complements salads, fish and white meat dishes. The zesty fruits and complexity are well matched with the soft savoury palate of our Surrey asparagus, Cornish potatoes, Taleggio, pancetta and soft poached duck egg starter.

This little 2009 Pinot Noir is the perfect example of what the 2009 Burgundy Vintage is all about. Rich, deep, powerful fruit with moderate tannins, earth and spice. With a hint of blackberry, this wine has just enough stuffing and depth to make it more than a simple Vins de Pays or Bourgogne Rouge. Brimming with plum flavours, with a hint of whole-cluster spice associated with stem inclusion. An impressively round and smooth mouthful for such a young wine. A medium-bodied Pinot Noir that offers good value, taking on bigger flavours such as blue cheese, fruit and even spicy ingredients such as chorizo.

This dish of slow roast belly of pork, sautéed rainbow chard and thyme-inspired Puy lentils is no exception to the rule and promises to have you asking for seconds!

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Feeling a little dazzled by the city's bright lights? then retreat to the country and gaze at the star-filled skies just like nature intended...

city escapes

the royal crescent 34

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T

he moment you enter the fine entrance hall, with its marble bust of William Pitt, black and white chequered floor and ceremonial halberds, you realise that this is no ordinary residence.

The colours and décor of all the rooms echo the less fussy interiors of the Georgian era. On the left of the imposing hallway is the main drawing room, while ahead is the magnificent cantilevered stone staircase.

Beyond you'll find the green expanse of the peaceful gardens and the quiet seclusion of The Bath House spa. Throughout the hotel there are also many contemporary portraits of famous people who visited Bath, or lived there - Lord Nelson, Charles Dickens, William Pitt, George III, and the celebrated actress Sarah Siddons.

Each room has been lovingly restored to its original splendour with infinite care for recreating the authentic Regency period details - many of the carpets, furnishings, colour schemes and fabrics are as they would have been in the 18th century.

There are over 40 bedrooms in all.

Every room has its own unique character, yet all have luxuriously appointed en suite bathrooms and are graced with seasonal displays of freshly-cut flowers. In addition most enjoy lovely views over the surrounding gardens, lawns and The Royal Crescent's parkland.

The award-winning Dower House Restaurant is situated in the Dower House, overlooking the leafy and secluded gardens.

In the summer months the sunny terrace and manicured lawns make the perfect

setting for al fresco dining, either for a leisurely lunch or a relaxed and informal dinner.

The menu changes with the seasons, to match the climate and to make best use of the very finest fresh ingredients. The expertly-managed cellar complements the menu and provides ample choice for both the casual diner and the true connoisseur of fine wines.

Visitors have been coming to Bath to enjoy the restorative effects of ‘the waters’ for almost two thousand years and the Royal Crescent Hotel is proud to continue this tradition. A converted coach house and stables, opening onto the gardens, provides a stunning setting for The Bath House spa with its elegant, heated relaxation pool, cool and tepid plunge pools, sauna and steam rooms, fully-equipped gym and a wide range of holistic treatments to soothe, relax and rejuvenate both body and spirit.

The Royal Crescent is far more than a remarkable collection of buildings. It gives you an opportunity, all too rare in today's frantic world, to experience gracious living and sophisticated entertainment from the age when Bath was the very centre of the civilised world.

The Royal Crescent Hotel 16 Royal Crescent Bath BA1 2LS 01225 823333 www.royalcrescent.co.uk

EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER Stay Friday and Saturday night and receive a complimentary night’s stay on Sunday including a bottle of champagne on arrival and a complimentary upgrade to the next available room type.

Terms and conditions apply, please call 01225 823333 and quote ‘FLAVOUR OFFER’ for more information.

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estled in 107 acres of Dartmoor National Park is the absolutely quintessential country house retreat, Gidleigh Park. One of England’s finest hotels, executive head chef Michael Caines holds 2 Michelin stars and his very fine cuisine will undoubtedly be the highlight of your visit.

Fine food is complemented by a wine list that is one of the most impressive in the UK, with a very creditable collection of organic and biodynamic wines amongst the 1,100 on offer.

gidleigh park discover

dartmoor’s most stylish secret...

It is a must-do to discover the grounds, gardens and many acres of glorious countryside whilst in full summer bloom collect a map from the hotel and head off in stout boots to explore the natural wonders of this stunning location.

Activity deserves reward and the bedrooms at Gidleigh are luxuriously relaxing spaces that are perfect for unadulterated down time. For the ultimate pampering reserve one of the three spa bedrooms or seek out the room with a rooftop hot tub.

01647 432367 gidleighpark@gidleigh.co.uk www.gidleigh.com

I

f a city break is on your agenda this summer we would like to extend a warm invitation to the Bath Priory.

A sublime luxury hotel a short stroll from the heart of the Georgian city of Bath yet hidden off the beaten track creating a country house feel.

bath priory

enjoy

summer in the city

After a day admiring the sun-dappled, honey-hued Bath stone buildings, return to relax in the four acres of award-winning gardens, chill by the outdoor pool or enjoy being pampered in the luxurious spa. As the day winds to a close, enjoy cocktails on the pretty Victorian sun terrace.

Enjoy a memorable dinner and experience the kitchen team’s talent. Under the direction of executive head chef, Michael Caines, the brigade is led by the young and talented Sam Moody, who serves excellent modern European cuisine created with the very best of local, homegrown and seasonal produce. The light-filled dining room overlooks the gardens, offering the perfect backdrop for a truly memorable dinner.

The wine list is pretty special too!

01225 331922 mail@thebathpriory.co.uk www.thebathpriory.co.uk 37

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city escapes

t

T Nestled in its own haven of privacy with copious amounts of luxury and a small sprinkling of mystery, The Manor in Somerset offers the perfect seclusion for an over-papped celebrity, a private wedding of your dreams or a corporate event which will ensure winning business. This month Faye Allen speaks with owner Spencer, to find out what lies behind the locked gates of this striking retreat…

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he Manor dates back to the 13th century and the first records of the property are recorded at 1235 AD. We decided to renovate the property in 2007 which was quite a task. From a structural perspective it wasn’t too bad, it was the inside that needed the most attention.

It is a historic, listed building and it demands a great deal of respect.

It was important to us to keep the tradition alive and blend a more modern feel. Old houses can feel cold, draughty and dated with antique furniture which doesn’t necessarily suit the building. The Manor has been renovated for ultimate luxury.

Everything is functional and comfortable with finishing touches that take the house into a different league. That is what people say when they come here and it’s what they say when they leave.

The house has never been in anything but private hands and it’s important for us to keep that feeling of privacy when people come here to stay. We offer the venue to people who are looking for weddings, private parties, anniversaries and celebrations. As well as making a beautiful film location it is also perfect for corporate events.

Each party which comes here experiences exclusivity, privacy and quality. We are flexible to people’s wants and needs. Every event is different.

Every room in the house is comfortable and luxurious without feeling like a hotel. The Manor is down-to-earth and the luxuries are subtle, understated and elegant. It is important for us that we leave a gap around a booked date. We leave a week to clean the house before the event and equally, we let the building breathe once the event is over before we book anything else.

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the manor

> flavour

city(e)scapes

Having a party?

What can I say? Where do I start?

I'm smiling as I had no idea what was going on. What a fantastic 40th birthday party and surprise engagement party!

You truly are wonderful, generous and immensely talented hosts who understand how to make us all feel special. A brilliant, brilliant venue and we are already missing what is without doubt, the UK's most exclusive, yet cool, manor house. We hate to leave, it's simply perfect and what dreams are made of! Best wishes and we all cannot wait to return. Thank you both.

Karen & Garry, East Sussex

Is it your big day?

People can take the keys to the property for however long they want it. People have eight acres of grounds to explore with breathtaking gardens, various miniature lakes, a koi pond and lots of rare, wildflowers. There is an outdoor tennis court, outdoor swimming pool and a wood panelled games room with a football table and secret dartboard as well as a sauna.

We can cater from 6 guests to 260, We can cater from 6 to over 400 in a marquee!

Most recently we’ve hosted a lot of weddings, all through recommendations. Everyone who views The Manor books. The weddings are so different to what other venues offer. We cater for everything from fish and chips to Michelin star, from traditional British cuisine to Mediterranean or an Arabic twist, we can call on the appropriate chef depending on the required taste.

We have a lot of London and oversee visitors who want a secluded place to hold their corporate event. We have recently held a very successful and enjoyable event for Aston Martin.

The drive days are very entertaining; lots of people come to test drive the cars and to enjoy the local countryside, It’s a very rewarding event to hold.

It’s important for us to remain exclusive for guests. We only offer a certain number of events each year so we can respect the house and all those who come here, this ensures a quality service of the highest possible standard at all times…

Spencer and Fiona are happy to meet for an informal viewing.

01823 666297 knight@themanorsomerset.co.uk www.themanorsomerset.co.uk

Dear Spencer & Fiona, Wow - what can I say, where do I start? What an amazing venue to begin our married life. The Manor is simply the most perfect place we could have brought our families and friends to for this very special occasion.

Every moment has been magical and your attention to detail and ability to make everyone feel welcome is truly unique and has left a lasting impression on us. So we thank you from the bottom of our hearts for helping us to create some truly unforgettable memories.

With a wedding as rocking as ours, we cannot wait for future celebrations here.

(Or may be a HELLO! photo shoot!).

A million thanks. Keep in touch.

Features Editor Rosie Nixon of Hello!, London.

Need a venue for a corporate event?

Fabulous venue, the perfect hosts for the ride and drive. What a great day and a fabulous location - we will be back!

Aston Martin, Exeter.

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city escapes

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aving been built in 1877 by a king for the woman he loved, Langtry Manor is the perfect setting for a romantic weekend experience. Set back among the trees on Bournemouth’s East Cliff, a 20-minute stroll from this historic boutique hotel along the promenade takes you to the cosmopolitan shops, theatres and bars.

Stay in one of the many four-poster beds or relax in the bath of one of the Jacuzzi rooms. You might however want to mark a special occasion by selecting one of the individually-designed luxury suites where Edwardian elegance and contemporary style mix seamlessly.

Stay for the weekend, arriving on the Friday night with a flower on your pillow, enjoy Champagne cocktails in the drawing room prior to candlelit fine dining in the magnificent Langtry’s Restaurant.

Explore everything Bournemouth has to offer before the experience of the Saturday night - a famous six-course Edwardian banquet with the live presentation of the “Life of Lillie”.

Weekend prices for a four-poster or Jacuzzi room start at £115 per guest per night or a luxury room at £145. Reduced midweek prices are available.

Langtry Manor East Cliff Bournemouth. BH1 3QB 01202 553887 www.langtrymanor.co.uk

A LITTLE EXTRA... flavour readers will receive a complimentary bottle of Champagne and chocolates on arrival - please mention ‘flavour’ when booking.

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langtry manor

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city escapes

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hatley Manor Hotel and Spa situated in Malmesbury, Wiltshire, is just two hours outside of central London.

whatley manor

Set in 12 acres with 26 distinctive areas to the English country gardens, one of the jewels amongst its crown is the award-winning spa, Aquarias, featuring one of the largest hydrotherapy pools in the UK and a host of ‘La Prairie’ spa treatments. There are two restaurants to choose from including the brasserie ‘Le Mazot’ and the Michelin two-star restaurant ‘The Dining Room’.

Both restaurants are overseen by Head Chef Martin Burge.

Whatley Manor is offering a two-night midweek stay which includes a three course à la carte dinner for two in the brasserie, ‘Le Mazot’ and a signature three-hour La Prairie ‘Swiss Bliss’ spa treatment each.

‘Swiss Bliss’ uses the most luxurious La Prairie Caviar products and comprises a relaxing 90 minute La Prairie facial and a 90 minute La Prairie body scrub with massage. To further enhance your ‘Swiss Bliss’ treatment book the exclusive Aquarias VIP Suite in order for you to enjoy your treatments together in your own private chamber which comes complete with its own hydrobath for two and its own dedicated therapists - £100 supplement.

The two-night midweek stay starts from £1090. Rates are for two guests and include the package as detailed, early morning tea or coffee, daily newspaper, full English breakfast, use of all the spa facilities, VAT and 10% discretionary service charge. A supplement of £100 is charged for the VIP Suite. Without exception the ‘Swiss Bliss’ spa treatment must be booked when you make your reservation.

Alternatively should a midweek break be out of the question Whatley Manor is offering flavour readers the chance to stay two nights and enjoy a third night complimentary throughout the month of July. Rooms from £375 per room per night including full English breakfast and use of all of the spa facilities.

Terms and conditions apply.

Call reservations on 01666 822 888 or email reservations@whatleymanor.com Quote ‘Flavour Magazine’ when you make your reservation.

Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa Easton Grey Near Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB www.whatleymanor.com

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dart marina

D

art Marina Hotel & Spa – the waterside retreat that will draw you back time and time again…

Dart Marina Hotel & Spa, situated within a few steps of the magical River Dart, is a rare find. Set in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Dartmouth, Devon, a more stunning location is hard to imagine and one glance at the River meandering by is enough to make you breathe a little easier.

It’s the kind of place which draws people back time and again and not just because of its mesmerising location, but because of the warmth of the team who work there, the stylish yet relaxing atmosphere throughout the Hotel & Spa and the superb local produce, which can be found on every menu.

This combination is what makes Dart Marina a place where people take an hour over a great cup of coffee and the papers and it’s what makes people come back to enjoy another ‘dose’ of total relaxation.

But for many guests it is simply a wonderful place to rejuvenate; king-size beds with crisp linens and plump pillows, fluffy bathrobes and soft towels, a chair positioned perfectly to watch the yachts sail by or a massage treatment to leave the skin glowing.

Dart Marina’s elegant fine dining River Restaurant, which holds two AA Rosettes, has exemplary standards of cuisine, wines and service. Wildfire Bar & Bistro buzzes with soft jazz, cocktails and Champagne, and the best kind of Devon seafood grill.

For a friendly, traditional pub atmosphere, 42

The Floating Bridge has a menu that reflects everything that is good about honest pub food - Devon crab sandwiches, beer battered cod and homemade chips, local ale and, of course, desserts served with rich Devon clotted cream. Head chef Tom Woods delights in using local and seasonal ingredients sourced from Devon waters, pastures and producers, and he works with each season.

The health spa is a haven for total relaxation - experienced and welcoming therapists offer luxurious, holistic treatments, which leave the skin glowing and aid a blissful night’s sleep. The worldrenowned House of Elemis treatments are used alongside a new range of organic hand, nail and foot treatments from Pinks Boutique. There’s an exercise suite, a pool, a steam room and drench showers to reinvigorate and refresh.

Time spent at Dart Marina might mean a boat trip along the River Dart to a vineyard for lunch, sitting on the beautifully clean beach at Blackpool Sands, a long walk through ancient woodland, a morning browsing the local galleries, a river cruise or a fishing trip, or a visit to a local garden, and then back for a Devon tea and warm, freshly-made scones by the riverside.

Dart Marina Hotel & Spa Sandquay Road Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9PH 01803 832580 www.dartmarina.com

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city escapes

the deer park T

he Deer Park has recently reopened following a major refurbishment. Situated in 80 acres of unspoilt Devon countryside, this 18th Century country house hotel is ideally located to explore Devon’s dramatic coastline and the heather clad rolling hills of Dartmoor National Park.

The Deer Park is an unpretentious family focused hotel which has the warmth of a truly English country house. From the moment you arrive up the mile long drive, you’ll find that everything, from your bedroom and the service to the exquisite food and relaxing atmosphere is created to make you feel right at home.

The hotel has 16 en-suite bedrooms which have all been individually styled to capture the essence of country living. The principle rooms in particular boast stunning countryside views out towards the River Otter.

The restaurant has built an enviable reputation for both its quality and atmosphere, offering a range of dishes to delight all senses.

Stroll around the grounds through wooded walkways, take a dip in the outdoor swimming pool or cosy up in the lounge with your favourite book.

The hotel’s private five mile fishery on the River Otter also provides the perfect place for a spot of fly fishing, so you really can do as much or as little as you please during your stay.

The Deer Park Country House Hotel, Buckerell Village, Weston, Honiton, Devon, EX14 3PG 01404 41266 admin@deerparkcountryhotel.co.uk www.deerparkcountryhotel.co.uk

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After learning about teapigs’ latest super tea we wanted to keep this miracle discovery all to ourselves, but in the end simply had to share it with our beloved flavour readers…

WHAT IS MATCHA AND WHY IS IT SO HEALTHY? teapigs organic matcha comes from the renowned Nishio region in Japan. It is not processed in any way: it’s not an extract or supplement, there are no sugars, preservatives or other additives. It’s just 100 per cent natural, organic ground green tea leaves – straight from nature.

THE WAY IT’S DRUNK When you drink regular green tea, once brewed, you throw away the leaves so it’s a bit like boiling spinach, throwing away the spinach and just drinking the water - you get some of the nutrients but you’re throwing away most of the goodness. Matcha is drunk as a fine powder diffused in liquid so you actually ingest the whole leaf, consuming every last bit of goodness.

ANTIOXIDANT POWER Leading research and medical institutions have found that green tea is seriously good for your health since it’s super high in antioxidants. Matcha contains more antioxidants per gramme than some of nature’s healthiest superfoods like gojiberries, blueberries and spinach.

Matcha contains 70x the antioxidants of orange juice, 9x the betacarotene of spinach and vitamins A, B and C. A 1g serving is also equivalent to 10-15 cups of regular green tea!

SUPER

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tea

MATCHA MADE IN HEAVEN Matcha is traditionally drunk whisked into hot water and makes a very smooth green tea. You can also whisk it with hot milk as a latte. Alternatively...

Add it to your favourite drink: water, milk, fruit juice, smoothies and yoghurt

+

=

¼ teapsoon matcha + hot/cold water, juice or milk = all your daily health needs

ENERGISING AND CALMING Matcha contains two special amino acids called theophylline and L-theanine. These work together with matcha’s natural caffeine to give our bodies a gentle and sustained energy boost lasting 4-6 hours – no more afternoon slumps!

This dynamic combination also reduces stress and helps you remain calm and focused – that’s why Buddhist monks have drunk matcha for centuries – just what you need when you’re about to meditate for many hours!

METABOLISM-BOOSTING A study in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition established that green tea promoted fat oxidation and increased energy expenditure – in other words, it promotes the metabolism and burning of fat.

SUPER SUPER HEALTHY Matcha is very very good for you. High in antioxidants and packed full of vitamins that can improve the appearance of skin, hair and nails, a daily cup of matcha provides the key nutrients that are essential for optimal health.

teapigs' organic matcha is available at Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, John Lewis, Wholefoods and Planet Organic. You can also buy online at www.teapigs.co.uk

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drops by flavour

> flavour drop by

Meet Lisa Stockton, a London leader, and her co-cake queen, Ellie Pennington. Their kitchen is as happy as it gets, full of scrumptious, healthy, socially and environmentally conscious cakes. Happy Kitchen is a social enterprise bakery in East London run by the two lifelong friends.

The lovely ladies handmake every morsel of their mouthwatering cakes, flapjacks, brownies and cookies. Each delicious treat is free from wheat, dairy, eggs, sugar and some also gluten-free. All use only plantbased British, seasonal, organic and fairly traded ingredients.

Passionate about food, people and the planet, Lisa and Ellie always wanted to use their cakes to spread the word of happiness everywhere.

A proportion of their time, when not up to their necks in cookie dough, is invested in education projects about food, sustainability, health, the environment and climate change.

Committed to reducing the impact on the planet, they compost any fruit peelings and carefully manage waste and recycling and use packaging derived from plants. All products are delivered by an LPG van and use energy that is 70 per cent renewable to run the bakery.

Recently the Happy Kitchen has turned their arches into an even bigger hub of delicious produce from bread to granola, by building a bread oven and working with E5 Bakery as well as longtime business buddy Maria from Mini Magoo. This means that Happy Kitchen is one big hive of bready goodness every day.

Pop in for a bite to eat or stay a while and learn how to make a loaf yourself from Ben the baker. Perhaps, the sweeter side of life is more your thing? If so Lisa can teach you to make a chocolate cake with no sugar, protein or carbs.

Yes it’s a miracle, a sweet, innocent miracle.

402 Railway Arches, Mentmore Terrace London E8 3PH www.happykitchen.org.uk

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> flavour electric brasserie

electric brasserie This month Ren Behan visits Electric Brasserie in the heart of Notting Hill, where Modern European food is served in a lively and upbeat atmosphere.

Electric Brasserie is located on Portobello Road adjacent to the iconic, hundred-yearold Electric Cinema and entrance to the Electric House private members’ club, all of the prestigious Soho House Group.

In such a prominent location, the weekend 12pm-5pm brunch menu always attracts a crowd with tables in the restaurant section requiring booking during evening service. On our midweek visit there were only a handful of tables still available for walk-in customers.

The smaller tables at the front are perfect at any time on which to perch drinks and a platter of small plates (house selection, any three at £14). A larger but still intimate and low-lit dining space at the back is filled with brasserie-style dark wood tables, flexible for smaller or larger groups, and comfortable brown leather banquettes set along the walls beneath large art deco mirrors.

Electric Brasserie 191 Portobello Road London W11 2ED 020 7908 9696 www.electricbrasserie.com 48

Along one side of the brasserie, a wellstocked bar plays host to a cluster of groups and couples choosing from an excellent selection of cocktails. She’s Electric (£8.75) is highly recommended; vanilla sugar is made by the house using beans sourced from a local spice

shop, adding sweetness to the puréed strawberry and a good dose of Stolichnaya Razberi vodka.

The focal point of Electric Brasserie is its open kitchen, centrally located allowing the chefs to interact with customers and providing an entertaining wallpaper and insight for diners into the heat and pressure of the pass.

Well-balanced menus change every six weeks around staple favourites such as the permanently-popular Duck rilette with fig chutney (£7.50). Portobello Market directly outside provides excellent seasonal doorstep inspiration for the chefs, particularly for their vegetarian dishes and sides.

With a key focus on sustainability a confident selection of seafood dishes, as well as hot and cold platters, are available.

We tried the delicate whole sea bream (£15.00) though the salmon fishcake with spinach and beurre blanc was also very popular (£14.00). Meat-lovers will have fun deciding between the classic steak frites (£14.50) or lavish chateaubriand for two (£49.00).

Puddings (all priced at £6.50) are seasonal and include light options. Standout choices were Electric Brasserie’s flavourful take on a coffee and hazelnut Eton mess and the childhood-inspired treacle sponge and vanilla custard.

Friendly and knowledgeable staff did well enhancing the positive dining atmosphere within this established and fashionable Notting Hill hub. ■

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> flavour xxxxxxx

50

> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Paul Witherington Originally from: Australia Head chefs at: Electric Brasserie, Portobello Road I’ve worked for The Soho House Group for four years and I’ve been the Head Chef here at Electric Brasserie for just under a year-and-a-half. Before that I worked in Melbourne, Australia.

I love cooking springtime food. You get to lighten up your menus and you don’t have to use cabbage all the time! English Asparagus is just coming through, which is great. My favourite dish for spring would be a piece of sea trout with asparagus and a sauce vierge. That will definitely be on our new menu.

Electric Brasserie 191 Portobello Road London W11 2ED

My favourite restaurant in London at the moment is Pied à Terre, the food that Australian chef Shane Osborne does there at the moment is incredible so I love to eat there whenever I get the opportunity.

A few weeks ago I also ate at The Fat Duck, which was one to tick off the list. Further afield, I’d love to eat at Pierre Gagnaire’s restaurant in France.

We take great inspiration from Portobello Market just outside; we talk to the suppliers and get ideas on ingredients to use. We’ve also got a great shop called Books for Cooks just around the corner, so we go there sometimes to get inspiration.

One cookbook I couldn’t live without is The River Cottage Cookbook; there are so many simple recipes in there which are a great starting point for new dishes.

It is also important to try and focus on sustainable fish sources so, on our menu at the moment, we have wild salmon and Torbay sole, a fish caught off the coast of England.

It’s great to be able to interact and see positive reactions from customers as we have an open kitchen at the Brasserie, which is a central feature. It’s the first I’ve ever worked in and now that I’ve worked in one I couldn’t go back to work in a closed kitchen. ■

020 7908 9696 www.electricbrasserie.com 51

It’s all over for another year. The chefs have packed away their egos and their hangovers and jetted back to their kitchens. The World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards is now but a champagne-fogged memory...

no

the novelty that is...

m

a

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> flavour the 50 best

While most people have heard of Michelin stars, the 50 Best remains almost exclusively an industry event.

You won’t hear it mentioned on TV, while in print it’s hidden towards the back.

And yet most chefs would rather be in the top five list than to pin any number of stars on their aprons.

Unlike Michelin, the 50 Best list is compiled from the opinions of people with profiles; food critics and food writers across the globe. A select group submits their recommendations and debate amongst themselves.

There is a problem with any ‘best of’ list, though. How do you compare French cuisine to Italian, or Spanish to Norwegian? How can you say, in effect, that an apple is better than an orange?

You can’t and so for many years now the no.1 spot has gone to a restaurant that stands apart from purely national cuisine.

El Bulli, no.1 for four straight years, created its own category and was easily the best at it. Critics were in ecstasy, perhaps because they were the only people who could get a table.

Imagine though Citizen Kane winning ‘best film’ every year. That’s how 50 Best was becoming until last year El Bulli was given a metaphorical gold clock and asked to clear its desk. The spot was immediately filled not by The Fat Duck, the natural heir that many predicted, but by Noma in Copenhagen. And this year it got worse

for Heston - The Fat Duck fell to fifth place and Noma won again.

So what’s Noma got that he’s not? A new style, gnomic foodie philosophy to engage the critics and a focus on foraging. Chef Rene Redzepi likes to find things to eat.

This doesn’t mean he goes skip-diving in his spare time, but instead he goes after seasonal delights such as mosses and lichens in his native Scandinavia. Novelty, in the world of 50 Best, is everything and if you have reservations, so does he – Noma is now firmly booked until the next century and possibly beyond.

The 50 Best list is a list like any other; it stimulates debate, it’s a bit of fun, it offers a wish list for our foodie fantasy holidays...

If you can’t wait that long, then you’ll be pleased to hear that The Ledbury in Notting Hill is a brand new entry at 34, serving the kind of food that doesn’t require you to stroke your goatee beard thoughtfully but just get stuck in.

The 50 Best list is a list like any other; it stimulates debate, it’s a bit of fun, it offers a wish list for our foodie fantasy holidays.

I’ll be back next year hoping for seconds. ■

Far left Noma’s equisite pickled vegetables Above left Noma chef René Redzepi collects award Above right The Ledbury receives its highest new entry award of no. 34

Noma Strandgade 93, 1401 Copenhagen Denmark +45 3296 3297 www.noma.dk

The Ledbury 127 Ledbury Road, Notting Hill, London, W11 2AQ 0207 792 9090 www.theledbury.com 53

> flavour mitch tonks

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

Living by the coast means that I am able to get out on the water (when there is space in my diary) and enjoy the pleasures of fishing and sailing. When the weather is just right there is nothing quite like it, sailing out from Brixham round Start Point to Dartmouth is a delight and so beautiful.

Now I know that is hard to do in Bristol but being on the river is equally good and there is always plenty of activity with ferries and pleasure boats on the water. The sunshine and the water bring out a real need in me to enjoy seafood, must be memories of the Mediterranean that I want to relive, lobster a la plancha in Menorca or spider crab in Venice. In the UK we have an abundance of crab and there are none finer than those from the well managed fisheries of South Devon. So much of our crab is exported but at RockFish we have this delicious

This month:

CRAB

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shellfish delivered up from the coast daily to have as a perfect starter for our Sunday roasts or served whole, cracked and on ice with a pot of mayo for dunking the chunks into.

I have spent many summer afternoons at the beach or the park or in the garden and freshly boiling a crab for a few minutes, then after it has cooled use the rocks on the beach or crackers to crack the crab and eat it with a pot of mayo – that’s about as fresh as it gets. It’s an amazing experience and something that we can do living on this island surrounded by some of the most amazing fish and shellfish in the world.

Crab from South Devon has a delicious flavour and being in good supply makes an economical choice as well as a fantastically tasty one. You can’t go wrong with a good crab sandwich, probably on thick, soft, white bread with lots of brown crabmeat, fresh cucumber and black pepper. Crab sarnies used to be such an institution when visiting the coast but I think they haven’t had quite the same appeal to a new, younger generation unlike the ubiquitous prawn sandwich and I wonder why. Perhaps it is to do with the decline in the high street fishmonger or a certain squeamishness when it comes to some shellfish. So for all those of you out there who don’t want to miss this fabulous British food, here’s how to prepare it plus a recipe that is often overlooked for it’s simplicity but should be back on every dinner party menu and supper club going in my opinion! Try it, let me know what you think. ■

> flavour mitch tonks

Preparing crab For a 2kg crab, bring a large pan of water to the boil, add a good handful of rock salt and then boil the crab for 15-18 minutes. Drain and stand the crab on its nose to cool.

When cool enough to handle, turn the crab on its back. With the back facing you, tuck your hands around the side of the shell and force the carapace away with your thumbs. This can feel awkward but a bit of brute force usually does the trick. Here you will see the feathery ‘dead man’s fingers’ sticking up at the edge of the body.

They are harmless but give them a tug and discard them. With your thumb press on the stomach sac that is behind the eyes of the crab in the top shell, this should easily break away. Scrape the delicious brown meat out with a spoon, place in a bowl and mix with a fork. Pull off the claws and legs giving them all a good crack with the back of a heavy knife then cut the carapace into chunks.

Break the claws and take out the white meat from the thick end. Use the back of a heavy bladed knife to crack open the remaining claw and the pincers. Remove all the white meat and flake into a bowl. To remove the meat from the body of the crab, take a sharp knife, cut the crab body in half then in half again.

POTTED SOUTH DEVON CRAB Serves 4

If this is not for you, our fishmonger will do all the preparation. Just text him on 07929 444767 and tell him you want a freshly boiled crab to pick up and he’ll do it for you on the day – crab to go!

Ingredients 250g brown meat 150g white meat splash of cognac tsp ground fennel seeds 1 crumbled dried chilli 100g melted butter + 50g for pouring on top fennel fronds juice & zest ½ lemon Method Melt the butter, stir in the crabmeat, cognac, the fennel, lemon juice, chilli and zest season and taste and then put into ramekins and pour a little melted butter over the top. Sprinkle with fennel fronds, chill well and serve with toast.

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> flavour meat free

make it meat-free More people than ever appreciate that vegetarian cuisine can easily rival the taste of a meat dish. Whether it’s vegetables in their purest form or meat substitutes, they can often be healthier, cheaper, eco-friendly and pretty tasty too. Here are a few alternative appetisers...

Cauldron has been making a delicious range of food, including falafels, vegetarian sausages, pâtés, burgers, ready meals and of course, tofu for over 30 years. The team of dedicated foodies are bubbling over with imaginative new ways to bring you mouth-watering vegetable-based foods for you to enjoy.

Tofu is Caudron’s first love, in fact it was the first thing they ever made. Cauldron founder, Philip Marshal travelled across the Asian continent where he discovered the time-honoured process of making Tofu from soya beans.

Their tofu went down a storm, so they started making other tasty vegetable-based foods.

30 years later, creativity is at the heart of the Cauldron ideal.

All their dishes are made from inspiring recipes and exciting combinations of ingredients.

Experimenting with their plain or marinated tofu can help you to create a wonderful variety of impressive and delicious dishes.

In addition, all of their products use only non-GM ingredients and their ingredients are specifically selected and sustainably sourced to bring you the very best in taste which gives you more choice.

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> flavour meat free

Pad Thai Noodles Serves 4 Difficulty: Easy Cook: 10 minutes A delicious, quick and easy noodle dish.

Ingredients 200g Cauldron Tofu 4 tbsp green Thai paste, use more or less depending on heat preference 3 tbsp groundnut or other flavourless oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 medium red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional) 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced into half moon shapes 2 tbsp soy sauce Juice of 1 large lime (about 2 tbsp) 100g rice noodles, pre-cooked Garnish Method 1 Cut the tofu into thin strips and coat with the Green Thai paste - leave to marinate.

2 Heat the oil in the frying pan or wok add the tofu pieces and cook until golden brown 3-4 minutes, remove the pan and reserve.

3 Add the garlic, chilli and red onion (adding a little more oil if necessary) and fry for 3-4 minutes, or until the onion is tender, then keeping the heat high, add the tofu pieces back to the pan.

4 Pour over the soy sauce and the lime juice, then stir this for just a few seconds before adding the noodles, toss them around for 2-3 minutes, or until the noodles are heated through.

5 Mix in half the garnish and stir, serve with the rest of the garnish sprinkled over. If you are not vegetarian, try adding a handful of cooked tiger prawns cooking oil and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Put all the ingredients in a large bowl, season and toss with the dressing. Serve.

Tofu, Chocolate and Hazelnut Mousse Serves 4-6 Difficulty: Easy A delicious chocolate mousse made with tofu.

Ingredients 1 block Cauldron Original Tofu Juice & zest of 1 large orange 30g caster sugar 300ml fresh cream, lightly whipped 200g milk chocolate 75g hazelnuts, roughly chopped 1 Method 1 Drain the tofu, removing as much of the liquid as possible. Liquidise into a smooth paste, add the juice and zest of the orange along with the caster sugar and set aside.

2 Lightly whip the cream then add it to the tofu paste.

3 Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of boiling water then fold gently into the cream and tofu mixture.

4 Take some of the hazelnuts and sprinkle into the bottom of a bowl place a spoon full of mousse on top then repeat, keeping a few hazelnuts for garnishing 5 Refrigerate for 1 hour.

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riverford farm Everyday & Sunday recipes from Riverford Farm

by Guy Watson & Jane Baxter.

Month by month, Everyday & Sunday describes what vegetables are in season and the best ways to use them, with recipes for quick, everyday meals alongside one or two for a more celebratory dish, or an indulgent Sunday feast. From a warming Kale Gratin in March, to a fresh Salad of Braised Little Gems and Mint in June or a Swiss Chard, Squash and Blue Cheese Torte in October, Jane Baxter’s simple and inspiring recipes will help you to make the best of your veg, all year round.

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> flavour meat free

Wild rice, spinach & broad bean salad

New potatoes with crab, chilli & parsley & lemon

What makes this recipe distinctive is using the oil that the onions have been cooked in for the dressing. The sweet onions are freshened by the sharpness of the pomegranate molasses. This is available from Middle Eastern and health food shops.

Serves 4

Ingredients 125g wild rice sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 onions, thinly sliced 4 tbsp olive oil 200g broad beans, shelled weight 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses 100g young spinach leaves Method Cook the wild rice in boiling salted water for 30-40 minutes, until tender. Drain and allow to cool. Cook the onions in the olive oil for 20-30 minutes, until soft and slightly caramelised. Drain and reserve the cooking oil. Blanch the broad beans in boiling salted water for 3 minutes. Drain.

Peel any large beans with tough skins. Add the pomegranate molasses to the onion cooking oil and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Put all the ingredients in a large bowl, season and toss with the molasses dressing. Serve.

Ingredients 1kg new potatoes sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 150g picked white crab meat juice of 1 lemon, plus more if needed 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 red chilli, deseeded if preferred, chopped 2 tbsp chopped parsley 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Method Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 15-20 minutes, then drain. Allow to cool, then cut them into halves or quarters. Mix the rest of the ingredients together and toss through the potatoes.

Adjust the seasoning and add extra lemon juice if required.

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> flavour xxxxxxx

ye grapes A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider.

He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

Ye Grapes Inn 16 Shepherd Market Mayfair London W1J 7QG 0207 493 4216 60

What is the difference between a ‘bar’ and a ‘pub’? Well, a ‘bar’ can be pretty much anywhere that serves alcohol for you to drink on site, or maybe not even alcohol...

There are juice bars, milk bars, coffee bars, all sorts of bars. And that’s the point, the ‘bar’ is a very generic term which tells you very little about a place, and what sort of atmosphere to expect.

A ‘pub’ on the other hand is much more specific. Tell people you’re meeting in a pub, and instantly they have a good inkling of what to expect. The very term conjures up images of tradition, of history, of a warm welcome from the innkeeper.

Of, dare I say it, Britishness. Of course, traditional pubs come in all sorts, shapes and sizes; coaching inns, village locals, city centre boozers, but there is something undefinable that links them all together, which ties them to our national heritage in a way no other country, with the possible exception of Eire, can quite match.

A terrific example of what a pub really ought to be is Ye Grapes in Shepherd Market – little more than a hundred metres from Piccadilly and Green Park.

Shepherd Market dates back to the 18th century, the name coming from developer Edward Shepherd rather than the

profession. This is actually pretty close to the site of the ‘May Fair’ from which this part of London gets its name, and which ran here from 1686 until it was banned because the rowdy behaviour was felt to ‘lower the tone’ of the neighbourhood...

Turn left from Half Moon Street on to Curzon Street and, almost immediately, there is a covered walkway on your left leading to Shepherd Market, and as the alley opens into the square, there – on your left – is Ye Grapes.

It’s a Victorian building – completed in 1882 – and this is evidenced by the large feature windows, originally lead-lined, the brick work and, seemingly unique to this sort of pub, the glazed finish from three feet to the ground in a gloss finish British Racing Green colour. Flowerpots abound here, and there is a lovely original piece of signage above the original corner entrance to the building.

Inside there is now just one bar, but it still has that old fashioned feel of years gone by. The floors are wood panelling, and the bar boasts a brass foot rail to aid the leaning imbiber. As a nod to just how busy Ye Grapes can get, there are little shelves all over the place – at elbow height – so that those who cannot find a seat can still rest their drink somewhere convenient.

> flavour xxxxxxx

Raise a glass to...

Shepherd Neame Spitfire Ale (4.2%) Although only a smidge stronger than London Pride, this has a very much stronger flavour to it. It has a lovely ruddy hue, and a really malty taste.

There is a very subtle orangey feel which is far from overpowering, but the aftertaste has a slight épicé kick to it that is unusual but very welcome in a beer such as this.

Sharp’s Doom Bar (4%) Named after a treacherous sand bank in the Camel Estuary, this has become the brewery’s flagship beer. Flowers and berries are recalled with a waft of this under your nose, and when you taste it the fruit remains but is joined more overtly by the malty bitterness that is its trademark. It all ends up slightly sweet, which has made it very popular among less hardened real ale drinkers.

Cottage Champflower (4.2%) A very occasional occupant of the guest beer handpumps of London, it is well worth a try if you spot it. It has that stained-glass orange hue to it, but the hops used in the brew come surging through in the taste, giving it a rip-roaring finish.

specialising in Thai food from snack to full blown meal.

To further strengthen that sense of history, Ye Grapes motif is carved into the walls above the bar, and into the real fireplace.

It just feels as if little – well, little of importance – has changed since this pub opened all those years ago. The mantel over the fire is wooden, with a large mirror built in.

A relatively recent addition is the raised corral drinking area in one corner of the pub, above which sits a thoroughly modern TV. But as you sit and sup a nice pint in this area, you can’t help but be warmed by the crimson velvet curtains.

Above the bar is a set of firkins once used to hold rum, gin or brandy, but even more noticeable are the stuffed animals and a particularly impressive fish (bass?) which are mounted in display cases throughout.

There is also, of course there is, a large deer’s head sticking out of the left hand wall as if a trophy from some long forgotten expedition.

But pubs as wonderfully replete in history don’t survive in the 21st century without more than a passing nod to today’s customer. So, atop the wooden staircase to the right is an upstairs restaurant,

The real ale selection is varied too. As well as the house beer, Grapes Best Bitter, there are Fuller’s London Pride (a classic best bitter) and Chiswick Bitter (a genuine session beer), Spitfire Ale (a premium ale) from Shepherd Neame in Faversham, the slightly sweet Doom Bar Bitter from Sharp’s Brewery (now owned by Coors) in Rock in North Cornwall, and finally a very welcome guest in the amber Champflower Ale from the Cottage Brewery in Somerset.

The pub has an ever-changing guest beer policy, so many of these ales may change, but if you’re looking for a great example of a traditional pub in the heart of the City, that walkway off Curzon Street is well worth exploring. ■ 61

> flavour alex aitken

alex aitken One of the New Forest’s most renowned chefs, Alex Aitken, has a new venture in a stunning waterside restaurant in Christchurch. This month Rebecca Gooch catches up with him to talk seafaring and souffles….

From deckhand to one of Gordon Ramsay’s favourite chefs – it’s been quite a journey for former trawlerman Alex Aitken.

Even more remarkably, his transition from man of the sea to Michelin-starred master of the stove came without a single cookery lesson, never mind darkening the doorway of any catering college.

He makes it sound so simple: “I bought some chef’s whites and a couple of cook books,” he says, explaining how he only began cooking at the restaurant he opened with his wife in 1983 because she was eight-and-a-half months pregnant.

“So I went into the kitchen!”

Twelve years later he got his Michelin star, and the accolades mounted – including Gordon Ramsay naming Alex’s restaurant, Le Poussin, one of his top 11 favourite places to eat.

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Now, after stepping down as director of cuisine at the £30 million Lyndhurst country house hotel Lime Wood, and selling his share of the business, he’s found stunning new moorings at The Jetty, formerly the Gary Rhodes-fronted restaurant at the Christchurch Harbour Hotel, overlooking Mudeford quay.

Sitting on the terrace, with a side order of sunshine, you could kid yourself you’re in the Riviera, or Long Island. “I was looking for a new venture, and I loved the location – who wouldn’t?” he beams. The waterside setting also fits perfectly with his love of the sea, which began when he took to the water as a 15-year-old deckhand, fishing for langoustines, haddock and herring in Scotland.

“When I finished on the trawler, I started off as a waiter, rising through the ranks to restaurant manager. Then the restaurant

> flavour alex aitken

was sold and I was made redundant. A year later my wife Caroline and I opened Le Poussin in Brockenhurst.”

Alex’s history may be acclaimed – having cooked for the likes of Albert Roux and the Queen – or rather Dame Helen Mirren - but he’s always been slightly ahead of the crowd. As well as being completely self-taught, this is the chap who was foraging in the hedgerows and preaching the gospel of sustainability and seasonal ingredients when Hugh and Jamie were knee-high to a Neff cooker.

Unsurprisingly for the man named by The Times as “the most regional chef in England”, his menu at The Jetty majors on the local ingredients he has always championed, and he is an enthusiastic participant in the Christchurch Food and Wine Festival, which takes place May 6-13.

“I love all local produce. I’m biased, but Caroline produces some amazing beef that is reared on barley soaked in ale, and the wild mushrooms of the New Forest are my favourite, especially in a risotto with our own hens’ eggs to finish it off.”

One of his signature dishes for over 25 years is his twice-baked cheese soufflé .

“The biggest tip is not to over-mix the egg white,” he advises. “If you do, you cause the air to escape. Also, every time you lift out a spoonful of the mix you in fact mix the egg white more.”

He reckons his regulars would lynch him if he ever thought of taking his souffle off the menu. Having tasted it, I’d hand them the rope – it is beyond delicious. “My aim is to cook food that people want to eat,

not pandering to a chef searching for accolades,” he says of his ethos at the Jetty. “If accolades come however, we will embrace them!” ■

ALEX’S TWICE BAKED CHEESE SOUFFLÉ Makes between 10-13 soufflés

The Jetty 95 Mudeford Christchurch Dorset BH23 3NT www.thejetty.co.uk

Heat 500ml milk, 1 small onion, 2 bay leaves and 3 cloves. Allow to infuse then remove the onion bay leaf and cloves.

Melt 50g butter but do not colour, add 50g flour, heat and make a roux, gradually add the hot flavoured milk cook to a thick creamy white sauce, season with salt and pepper. Allow to cool, then add 6 egg yolks and beat until the mixture is smooth.

Whisk the remaining egg whites with a pinch of salt so that they are semi stiff.

Gently fold in whites into the creamy white sauce and egg yolk mix taking care not to over mix and lose the air.

Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, filling them to the brim. Place into a water bath and cook in the oven on 150°C for 30 minutes. Carefully remove from the oven and allow to cool.

To finish the soufflés, turn out of the ramekin into an ovenproof bowl, season and pour whipping cream over the top until the cream is 1cm up the side of the souffle. Sprinkle liberally with Dorset cheddar and cook at 160°C for a further 15-20 minutes.

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wholefoods Whole Foods Market is the leading Natural and Organic Retailer. Its flagship store based in Kensington is the largest of five London stores and with 80,000 square feet of retail space, Whole Foods creates a whole new shopping experience for its customers.

From the New Forest:

Strawberries Boyd Farms John Boyd knew from the age of five he wanted to be a farmer.

When he took over the running of the family’s farm from his father, he refocused it on fruit relying on the New Forest’s mild winters and long sunshine hours to ripen his crops early.

From the Wye Valley:

Asparagus Cobrey Farms

On entry, customers are greeted by the irresistible smell of freshly baked bread and you can often sneak a peek at the bakers in action! Whole Foods boast dozens of regional cheeses; handmade chocolates created by their in-house chocolatiers; a huge range of meats from their 75ft butchers’ counter; fresh fish prepared by skilled fishmongers \and the choice of over 1000 expertly chosen wines.

Known for their commitment to stringent quality standards, White Foods only work with producers that share their love of great tasting food that is fresh, wholesome and safe to eat.

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The Wye Valley is an idyllic spot with a unique micro-climate which helps produce the earliest and sweetest asparagus in the UK, making Cobrey Farms one of the UK’s largest and most successful asparagus farms.

The Chinn family uses a high tech grading and packing facility, ensuring your asparagus is fresh and delicious to the last bite. The family feels that nothing tastes like spring more than a tender stalk of asparagus and once you have tasted his mouthwatering crop, we’re sure you will agree wholeheartedly.

Boyd Farm produces 1000 tons of strawberries, 100 tons of rasberries, 50 tons of blackberries and 10 tons of blueberries each year! Ask John about his fruit and he’ll quote a review he has framed upon his wall describing their ‘old-fashioned, fulsome flavour’.

From the Isle of White:

Tomatoes Wight’s Salads Owner Brian Moralee has just been named young grower of the year at the 2011 Grower of the Year awards. Brian knows limestone soil and hot summers, where the sunlight is 20% stronger than the rest of the UK, make the Isle of Wight ideal for tomato growing.

Twenty different varieties thrive on Wight Salads’ fields and all benefit from eco-initiatives such as a new composting centre and Brian’s integrated pest management system (using good insects to keep away the bad). Wight’s Salads truly is the taste of British.

> flavour real food

> flavour xxxxxxx

Arthur Potts Dawson One would think that a man with such a high profile in this country, particularly in London, would never be so modest as to admit his ‘skintness,’ but when I caught up with Arthur Potts Dawson recently, he wasn’t shy in letting me pay for the coffee. See Arthur, as you have probably heard and seen on Channel 4’s The People’s Supermarket, not only put his blood, sweat and tears into the project, but also most of his year in time too.

Rather sleepily but still with the same energy as always, he tells me he has not slept much in the past year, nor has he shaved for near on eight weeks.

Prior to his acclaimed restaurants Acorn House and the Waterhouse, Arthur had worked alongside Britain’s most respected chefs including Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall and Jamie Oliver.

His interest in food began however, during his childhood on a Dorset farm.

“There was never much money around when I was growing up,” he says.

“We learned to turn lights off and put a jumper on instead of the heating.”

From rooftop gardens to low-energy

refrigerators and wormeries that turn food waste into compost, these restaurants prove the profitability of an eco-friendly approach and serve as training grounds for the next generation of green chefs. Potts Dawson is for now focusing his crusade on kitchen tables, with The People’s Supermarket, which is a member-run cooperative that directly supports British farms. Inspiration for the project came from seeing firsthand the farmers and suppliers being forced out of business by the big supermarkets.

“I wanted to help them survive, and the only solution was to run a supermarket selling their produce at minimal cost,” he says.

With operating costs slashed, the supermarket aims to provide cheap, good food and pay farmers and suppliers a fair price.

For those of you that missed the show earlier this year, fret not as the buzz has just gotten even louder. One year on and more than a thousand members, Arthur is now more optimistic than ever.

“It has been a rollercoaster and at one point yes I thought that it may be over, but now we have well over a thousand members and massive plans to take this bigger, so that’s exactly what I am losing sleep over now.”

There was never much money around when I was growing up, We learned to turn lights off and put a jumper on instead of the heating Supermarket members pay an annual £25 fee and must work unpaid for four hours a month at the store. In return they get a share in the venture and a discount on the food.

Be part of the cooperative revolution and join the People’s Supermarket yourself, or visit the website. www.thepeoplessupermarket.org ■

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> flavour the real point of fine dining

the real point of fine dining Last Autumn’s BBC2 comedy series The Trip saw Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon play versions of themselves on a culinary tour of The Lake District, poking fun at the formality of fine dining along the way. This month Nick Harman explains why he would have been well at home in their company…

“So there I was, absolutely no clothes on, and her husband bashes open the bedroom door, takes one look at what’s going on and shouts out... ” “The lamb tartine with squid juice and emulsion of escargots.”

Don’t you just hate it when waiters interrupt as your dining partner is getting to the punch line of a story? They seem to have a radar for the right moment, shimmying soundlessly up on your blind side before butting in abruptly.

And it doesn’t end there. As you wait patiently for the man to put the plates down and go away he pauses dramatically to gain your full attention and then begins ‘the explanation’.

“So here we have rabbit volaille drowned in its own juices, enrobed in a saffron milk and gelatinated by a reduction of pituary glands gathered before dawn in a field where Henry V once stood.”

This is all bad enough, as your food is going cold while he speaks, but at the same time he does the ‘fine dining point’.

This is a way of indicating which puddle, smear or splash he is talking about by means of a bent little finger. To point directly at the item would be too crude for fine dining, so he crooks his little finger back on itself and uses the protruding knuckle to point instead.

This enrages me to the point of steam coming out both my ears. I want to eat and this man is waving his hand over my plate and boring me stiff about the food 66

I know what’s on my plate because I ordered it, and quite frankly if I need help identifying the items then chef should stop mucking about with them that’s on it. I know what’s on my plate because I ordered it, and quite frankly if I need help identifying the items then chef should stop mucking about with them.

And there is worse to come; just as I make to pick up my tools and get stuck in the

sommelier enters stage right. This is a peril of having matching wines with each course: a lot of wine bore action. I don’t care which side of the hill the grapes were grown on, the average night temperature or the grower’s family history. All I need to know is in the glass and all I want to do is taste it.

The more you pay, the worse it gets.

My local café doesn’t tell me the sausages were lovingly-assembled from scrapings off the abattoir floor and the tea has been relentlessly stewed for five hours. Alf knows exactly what I want from him: full English and a bit of peace and quiet. Merci bien. ■

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia. co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

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