flavour for people who love local food
South West | Issue 38 | April 2011
ÂŁ3 (Where sold)
WIN! A selection of coffee goodies from Taylors of Harrogate!
Coffee Culture The UK’s only coffee festival returns to Bath
Carluccio Why food and family go hand in hand
Sweet Treats
Delicious ideas for Easter from Hummingbird Bakery
www.flavourmagazine.com
Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com
welcome
Deputy Editor: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Clare Wicks, Account Manager Email: clare@flavourmagazine.com Charlotte Amos, Account Manager Email: charlotte@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, Eamonn McCabe, James Walker
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Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Peter Swanepoel, Mitch Tonks
Welcome to the April issue of flavour!
Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
Thanks to your support over the last three years, we were very excited to launch flavour into London this month. The South West is a real hub for real food, and if we fulfil our ambitions, the passion for produce in this region will soon be matched by our readers in the capital.
For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com
flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize. Please recycle this product.
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contents 5 WIN! A selection of coffee goodies from Taylors of Harrogate! 10 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanepoel bring you the best of the season’s produce 16 Sweet Treats Delicious ideas for Easter from Hummingbird Bakery 28 Coffee Culture The UK’s only coffee festival returns to Bath
Making the first London magazine required a huge team effort (no one has baked any office cakes for weeks!), but rest assured this issue is full to bursting with the same amount of page-turning content. Thanks to Easter and the forthcoming nuptials of Will and Kate, most of us can look forward to a month of increased leisure time with friends and family. And what better way to spend it than around the dinner table with food fit for the royal banquet itself? Turn to PAGE 16 for superlative sweet treats, PAGE 22 for lovely lamb recipes and PAGE 37 for Italian ideas from Carluccio – a man whose love of food is quite simply infectious. We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.
36 Carluccio Why food and family go hand in hand Cover photography taken from Hummingbird Bakery Cake Days, courtesy of Harper Collins
Happy Eating! Holly Aurelius-Haddock
> flavour news
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
this month Summer in a bottle Fresh from South Devon, Ashridge Organic’s new drinks are bursting with flavour and fizz - sparkling apple juice and elderflower pressé, and a new, lightly carbonated organic Vintage Cider. This medium dry, vintage cider is made from fifteen varieties of cider apples and has great depth of flavour with a bit of fizz; a perfect combination of tradition and contemporary tastes. Celebrate the Easter break with some quality Vintage Sparkling Cider or raise a glass to the royal couple with Ashridge’s sparkling Devon Blush – Devon’s answer to Kir Royale!’ Whatever the excuse, you’ll be celebrating in style with Ashridge. www.ashridgecider.com
The Harbourside Market is an exciting new offering in central Bristol, launching with three special markets over the first May bank holiday weekend.
Initiated by local businesses No 1 Harbourside and The Watershed, the market aims to increase access to high quality local food. It will also showcase arts and craft created in Bristol and the surrounding area. After the launch it will run each weekend featuring food, art and craft on Saturdays and books, art, records and plants on Sundays. Friday 29 April Harbourside food and drink market Saturday 30 April Harbourside food, art and book market
Markets will run from 11am – 4pm
Congratulations to... Andrew Calderbank from Cheshire who wins a foodie break to Exeter!
Nadia Schneider from Bristol who wins a stay at the Rougemont Hotel!
Zara Urguhart from Chippenham who wins a Fussels gift box!
Carrot Gold These playful carrot bags from Artisan du Chocolat are the perfect addition to any Easter egg hunt. The bright bags are filled with delicious mini eggs and are to sure stand out amongst the greenery of your garden. We also like to think they will count as one of your five-a-day too! www.artisanduchocolat.com 4
> flavour news
AFFORDABLE LUXURY From 1 May, Lucknam Park’s Michelin star restaurant The Park restaurant will be opening for Sunday lunch. Diners can enjoy three courses for £45 per person perfect for enjoying a traditional Sunday lunch in an elegant English setting.
Eat your way around the West Country…
Throughout May, The Park will also be offering a three course mid-week dinner for £50 per person. This special menu will be offered in addition to the existing dinner menus.
TASHTASTIC Here at flavour HQ, anyone who describes their nibbles as ‘a world where seriously splendid snackage meets complete and utter buffoonery’ is worth knowing!
01225 742777 www.lucknampark.co.uk The Apple Tree Inn
“We felt that something a tad leftfield to make folk smile and relax is just the ticket right now – especially in this current climate. Having said that, be under no illusions that we don’t take our food seriously. We do. Everything we source, roast, puff and season inside the packs is as good as it can possibly be,” says founder Giles Henschel, founder of Captain Tiptoes and award-winning Dorset food company Olives Et Al.
Eat British, drink local and sleep well at this country retreat. A warm welcome awaits you with excellent quality, locally sourced food, thirst quenching ales and ciders and plump pillows! All dogs are welcome so pop in after enjoying some of the beautiful countryside walks. 01749 890060 www.appletreeglastonbury.co.uk
Keep an eye out for these little flavourpunching packets in good food shops, wine shops, cinemas, on aeroplanes and bars.
The Paulet Arms
www.captaintiptoes.com
WIN COFFEE GOODIES from taylors of harrogate! The Bath Coffee Festival and its headline sponsor, Taylors of Harrogate, are offering you the chance to win one of three fantastic coffee sets including a cafetière, two beautifully decorated mugs, five packs of coffee and a coffee scoop. A perfect prize for coffee connoisseurs! The Bath Coffee Festival is taking place on Saturday 21 and Sunday 22 May at The Recreation Ground in the centre of Bath. This free event treats visitors to an unforgettable coffee experience, tasting blends from around the world. www.bathcoffeefestival.co.uk
www.taylorscoffee.co.uk
Turn to page 28!
The Paulet Arms, a 200-year-old pub based in the picturesque village of Edington, Wiltshire, has undergone a loving transformation and is now ready to serve fine food and local drinks. Their lunch and dinner menus reflect their love for classic English food sourced from local farms and suppliers. Watch this space closely for new boutique accommodation. 01380 830 940 www.pauletarms.co.uk
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> flavour the horn of plenty
the horn of plenty Set in five acres of spectacular gardens with wild orchards and tranquil views overlooking the Tamar Valley, this elegant country house hotel in Devon has an award-winning restaurant with character and charm rarely found. Positioned close to Tavistock in the heart of rural Devon, it offers everything you would expect to find from a country house hotel in a delightfully romantic setting.
The staff were so friendly, so professional and also on several occasions, one step ahead in making it a truly wonderful stay Steph and Jurgen, Hertfordshire This luxury accommodation has 10 en suite bedrooms, with most enjoying uninterrupted views across the Tamar Valley. The rooms in the main house hotel offer classic sophistication, whilst the rooms in the garden house hotel offer a contemporary finish. Whichever room you 6
choose though, you can be sure to enjoy quality fabrics, beautiful décor, Vi Spring beds, towelling robes, fresh flowers and bottled water. Head chef Stuart Downie is passionate about creating superb, memorable food using only the finest quality seasonal produce. He comments: “We’re spoiled for choice here at The Horn of Plenty, with an abundance of superb produce, sourced from within just a few miles.” With two AA rosettes, they have an excellent local and national reputation for award-winning food. The Horn of Plenty is the ideal base to discover Devon and Cornwall. Nearby attractions include The Eden Project. Hailed as the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’ this gigantic global garden is designed to tell the fascinating story of man’s relationship with, and dependence upon, plants. The infamous Dartmoor National Park is also close by. A beautiful moorland landscape and a rich habitat for wildlife, this is the perfect escape for a few hours. So whether you are looking for fine dining, a luxury hotel break or a romantic wedding venue in Devon surrounded by plenty of natural beauty, your time at this enchanting country house hotel will be very special.
Reasons to visit in April
Spring Special: 2 night stay from just £79 per person per night for dinner, bed and breakfast. Based on 2 people sharing. Valid until 21st April Taster Menu: Enjoy our delicious gourmet 5 course taster menu for just £55 per person, available every evening except Sunday and Monday. Sunday Special: Enjoy Sunday evening dinner at the normal rate of £49.50 per person and stay the night in our best available room for just £25.50 per person. That’s just £150 for dinner, bed and breakfast for two people! Based on two people sharing.
The Horn of Plenty Hotel & Restaurant Gulworthy Tavistock Devon PL19 8JD 01822 832 528 www.thehornofplenty.co.uk
> flavour loves
flavour This month’s must do, buy & see...
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Loves c
b
d
A
Elegant silver plated cake server £21.50
b
Duck foot egg cup £99 for two
c
Set of 4 silver plated coffee spoons £19.50
d
A selection of beautiful jugs from £8.50
e
Crown emblem dinner service from £4.50
e
La Maison Hill Road in Clevedon has recently been enjoying the buzz of its latest addition - La Maison Interiors. Hill Road is just a stone’s throw from the pier and is fast becoming a destination that’s drawing visitors from far and wide. It’s enjoying increasing acclaim for not only its unique and individual shops but also for its array of cafes, bistros, bars and restaurants. La Maison fuses a unique array of furniture. You’ll be able to find the old and the new, the decadent and the utility as well as the shabby chic and contemporary. Painted French and Scandinavian pieces sit easily alongside turquoise kitchen shelves or gold boudoir stools and with the
warmer weather approaching, a selection of beautiful garden and patio pieces will also inspire your alfresco dining. Coowners Jane Brake and Mary Hadlow have extended this eclectic feel to incorporate a stunning selection of tablewear, table top and kitchen accessories, all complete with La Maison’s trademark wow factor.
La Maison London House 30 Hill Road Clevedon BS21 7PH 01275 876 056 www.lamaisoninteriors.com 7
The Paulet Arms
W
e are proud to have re-opened The Paulet Arms in Edington, Wiltshire after over 200 years. Having carefully restored The Three Daggers as it was locally known we are now serving fine ales and delicious, locally sourced food. Our menu ranges from home made, tasty bar snacks such as scotch eggs or cray fish on toast all at ÂŁ2.50. For a proper meal enjoy spiced cauliflower soup with a blue cheese fritter to start or smoked duck, beetroot and free range egg. For main course tuck into seasonal british classics such as venison pie or slow cooked blade of beef. If you have room then our puds with attitude are not to be missed!
Call us on 01380 830940 to book or visit our website www.pauletarms.co.uk Westbury Road, Edington, Wiltshire BA13 4PG
> flavour fab foodie reads
fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
Supper Club Kerstin Rodgers Collins £25
Whether you are in on the secret or the whispers haven’t quite reached your neck of the woods yet, there is a new underground food revolution taking place that you should definitely be familiar with. With roots in the centre of London, the supper club phenomenon has been pushing culinary boundaries and challenging the concept of restaurant dining since its birth in 2009. Author and owner of London’s famous Underground Restaurant, Kerstin Rodgers is well known in the capital for her extraordinary dining events and creative food. Now you can recreate it for yourself with Kerstin’s down-to-earth advice and show-stopping recipes. Intrigued? Then search out a copy for yourself.
Good Things to Eat Lucas Hollweg Collins, £20
If you are a keen follower of Lucas Hollweg who writes with wit and enthusiam for The Sunday Times, then you will be more than happy to see his new book Good Things to Eat hit the shelves this April. Born and bred in Somerset, Lucas is a strong advocate for delicious, fresh produce put to use in easy-to-make, laid back dishes. Giving up a life in the office as a food editor and features journalist, Lucas now spends many a happy afternoon experimenting in the kitchen. Recipes include a bowl of quails with spiced yoghurt, sacallops ceviche, plum and ginger flapjack pudding and raspberry and basil sorbet. Lucas also talks you through the basics such as a hollandaise sauce and some gorgeous cocktails. Enjoy!
Two Greedy Italians Antonio Carluccio and Gennaro Contaldo Quadrille, £20
Old friends Antonio Carluccio and Gennaro Contaldo met, worked and established themselves as leading authorities on Italian cooking within British shores. Accompanying the BBC 2 series, Two Greedy Italians showcases the best recipes that this character and colourful duo uncovered on their trip back to their homeland. Here they reconnect with their culinary heritage, exploring past and present traditions and revealing along the way the very soul of Italian gastronomy. Written with heart and soul, this beautifully-illustrated book is full of Italian charm and a sentimental touch so take your pick from over 100 mouthwatering recipes and be the Mamma of your kitchen!
The Sorcerer’s Apprentices A season at El Bulli Lisa Abend Simon and Schuster, £17.99
El Bulli is not only the most famous restaurant in the world, but arguably the most significant and influential. Based in Catalonia, El Bulli is the laboratory of Ferran Adrià who has achieved a nearmythic reputation for culinary wizardry. Behind each of the 30 or more courses that make up a meal at El Bulli is a small army of young cooks who do the work of executing Adrià’s vision in exchange for nothing more than the opportunity to learn from the master. Journalist and food writer Lisa Abend takes us behind the scenes to give a vivid account of life inside the world famous kitchen. A fascinating insight into a restaurant that’s about to close its doors in 2011.
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> flavour in season
>Spinach
Spinach, feta and smoked chicken strudel Serves 4 Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. In a medium pan melt 50g of butter and sweat down 2 banana shallots, 2 cloves of garlic and a little chopped thyme. Add 500g of washed spinach and wilt down. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Brush the filo pastry with a little melted butter and place another 2 sheets of pastry on top and repeat the process. Place the spinach, 100g chopped feta and 1 diced smoked chicken breast in the centre and roll. Brush with butter and bake for 15 minutes until golden and crispy. Serve with a green salad.
Spinach is usually available throughout the year but it’s at its peak from May. It’s absolutely packed with goodness and when young and tender it is best just left raw in a salad. When it is cooked it has a wonderfully sharp, metallic bite but with a creamy texture which makes this little leaf so unique. Always buy loads more than you think as it cooks down to nothing! If bought keep the leaves in a bag as they generally keep quite well for up to a week but eat them sooner rather than later. As the year goes on the leaves get bigger and less tender so make the most of them now!
At their best > Jersey Royal potatoes Early season crops are naturally smaller and more tender than potatoes you would find towards the end of the season, usually around June. They are more waxy than other varieties and do not perish as easily which makes them a firm but flavoursome addition to summer salads. Try to buy unwashed potatoes for you to scrub yourself as these will have more flavour and goodness left intact. Keep them in a dark, cool spot if you wish to store them. Like all early season salads they are best eaten fresh from the ground. The simple addition of mint, course sea salt and a bit of butter is all they need! Jersey Royals are one of the very few veggies that posses their own “designation of origin” something the locals treasure just as the locals of Parma do of their prized prosciutto di Parma, so you know they’re special! 10
Jersey Royal potato salad Serves 4 Bring 600g of Jersey Royal potatoes to the boil and when cooked, strain and leave to cool. Transfer to a mixing bowl and lightly crush them with the skins on. Add 2 tbsp chopped gherkins, 1 tbsp chopped capers, the zest and juice of 1 lemon and 1 finely grated boiled egg. Mix with crème fraiche, a small handful of chopped chives and chervil and season to taste. Serve with grilled pollock or mackerel.
>Wild garlic As it’s not usually available from supermarkets, wild garlic is something that has to be foraged, a luxury in itself. It is noticeable by its mellow but very apparent smell when you are out embracing the countryside! Make sure you pick clean, undamaged leaves and give them a good wash before you make use of them. Wild garlic has a much more subtle flavour rather than conventional bulbs of garlic which makes them a great addition to pesto, soups or raw in salads.
Wild garlic and mint soup Serves 4 In a heavy bottomed pan, sweat down 1 onion, 2 sticks of celery, 1 leek and a medium potato in a little butter. Add 500ml chicken stock and bring to a simmer until the potatoes soften. Remove from the heat and add 200g of wild garlic and a couple of sprigs of mint. Purée in a food processor and season to taste. Serve with a drizzle of crème fraiche or greek yogurt.
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Peter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
right now >Rosemary Rosemary has to be one of my favourite herbs. Whether it’s roasted on a Sunday with lamb, preserved in a fruity jelly or as part of a bouquet garni in a stew or casserole, rosemary has so much to give in each recipe. It is an evergreen shrub so if you look after it will reward you all year round with its fragrant flavours. If used in a bouquet garni or roasted it can just be left on the woody stalk but for more delicate dishes pick the leaves off first. It’s a fairly hardy herb so will keep well for a few days when picked but it’s best to grow your own so you don’t have to worry about it.
Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk
Rosemary and vanilla panna cotta Serves 4 Bring 300ml double cream, 200ml whole milk, 1 vanilla pod and 2 sprigs of washed rosemary to the boil then remove from the heat. Soak 4 leaves of bronze gelatine in water until soft. Remove the gelatine and add to the cream mix. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve and pour into ramekins. Chill in the fridge for 2 hours or until set.
With two AA rosettes, The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modern British cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk
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> flavour real food festival
a taste of real food... The Real Food Festival is a melting pot of over 400 carefully selected food and drink producers showcasing the very best that the British Isles and beyond has to offer and is not to be missed for anyone who cares about their food and the people who make it.
Real Food Recipe Bellevue Tea’s Raspberry and Earl Grey Jellies Serves 6 450g ripe, fresh raspberries (or good-quality frozen ones) 150g caster sugar 4 sheets leaf gelatine 3 Earl Grey tea bags Juice of ½ lemon Double cream, to serve
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1 Put the raspberries and sugar into a bowl and mash to a juicy pulp. Set aside for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, so the sugar can dissolve, then rub through a sieve into a jug. You will have a delicious raspberry liquid. Discard anything left in the sieve. 2 Half fill a bowl with cold water, and lay the gelatine sheets in it to soften them. 3 Drop the tea bags into a measuring jug and pour in enough boiling water to bring the level up to 300ml. Leave the tea bags in for a couple of minutes, removing them while the tea is still hot.
4 Scoop the gelatine out of its water bath, squeeze out the excess water and stir the gelatine into the steaming tea. Add the lemon juice and pour in the raspberry liquid. Pour into 6 x 120ml moulds or into champagne flutes or small wine glasses. 5 Leave to cool, then put into the fridge to set for 5–6 hours. Turn out the jellies onto serving plates if you have made them in cup moulds, or serve in the champagne flutes or wine glasses. Accompany with double cream to pour on if desired.
> flavour real food festival
Real Food Cookbook Ticket Packages Be one of the first to get your hands on a copy of our brand new Real Food Cookbook, a beautiful book containing more than 100 delicious recipes showcasing the Real Food ethos from a collection of well-known chefs. Buy a copy of the new Real Food Cookbook (RRP £20) for £17.50 and get a complimentary ticket to the festival – please use code FLAV when booking. Only very limited stocks available. Mrs Paisley’s Lashings pop up restaurant. Tickets only £85 (£100 in advance only) which includes a VIP ticket to the show and a three course dinner with wine. www.realfoodfestival.co.uk Quote code “FLAV” when making your booking to get a ticket for the festival for £11.00 (£20 on the door) or treat yourself to a VIP ticket and enjoy Mrs Paisley’s Lashings sumptuously decorated VIP tent, kick back and enjoy the complimentary cocktail, gloat over the contents of your goody bag and flick through the Real Food Cookbook and complimentary show guide, which are all part of the VIP package. Tickets £30 (£50 on the door).
A taste of what to expect at this year’s festival... Be inspired by the Allens of Mayfair Butchery Theatre. Allens will be imparting the skills and knowledge builtup over their 120-year history. You don’t have to understand the anatomy of an animal and how it’s butchered to be a good cook – but it certainly helps! Visit the quintessentially English Tea Garden. Follow the tea trail from bush to cup! The Tregothnan estate, the only tea growers in the UK will be re-creating a working tea garden at the heart of the festival.
Join the Street Food revolution! The Real Food is bringing together a street full of the very best of a new generation of authentic vendors offering you great value, exciting, ‘fresh as you can get’, ‘eat as you go’ food. The Sheep Show is back, along with lots of other livestock! Meet Nobby the Norfolk, Susie Southdown and their friends in a combination of education and entertainment.
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> flavour tending the flock
tending the flock This month Nick Gregory offers a helping hand at Rainbow Wood Farm and learns about the reality behind our seasonal spring lamb roast… If anyone has watched Lambing Live with Kate Humble you will have some idea about what goes on in the sheds during this busy and important time for the sheep farmer. I was fortunate enough to be invited to Rainbow Wood Farm in Bath to shadow James Gay in a lambing live session of my own. James manages a flock of 150 breeding sheep, mostly Texel and Charollais crosses, and would normally hope for a 170 per cent lamb crop from those. Last summer he dug deep and bought himself a pedigree Texel ram and the Texel, along with a couple of old favourites, set to work in mid-October. Now, five months later, here begins the first day of a process which should last James about three, rather restless, weeks. Arriving at 8am, James was already well into his day’s work. Almost immediately James alerts me to a ewe (marked as carrying twins) which needs help in delivery. After donning an arm-length glove, James finds the first lamb and pulls it out back legs first. These are healthy lambs and are quick to respond to the mother as she licks them clean. The ewe is marked up (she is the 26th to lamb) and assigned to a pen. She is given plenty of water and hay and will be monitored closely over the next few hours. The ewe is left to tend to her young and we check the others for signs of imminent arrivals, before James heads off to carry out the day-to-day chores of running the farm and the B&B. A quick cup of tea ensues before a busy afternoon in the lambing shed. Four more ewes give birth, unfortunately however, we lose one of the triplets. It is all hands to the deck as we try and keep the other two 14
alive and most importantly save the ewe. They’ll be put under a lamp and checked every half an hour or so to make sure they are gaining strength. After dinner at six o’clock, we’re back out in the fading light to bring in the cows for the night before heading back into the shed. It’s a quiet time but that soon changes. At 11pm we spot another ewe in difficulty and James is required to pull out twins. After midnight we decide to find a couple of hours to sleep before getting up
the ewe is left to tend to her young and we check the others for signs of imminent arrivals, before James heads off to carry out the day-to-day chores of running the farm and the B&B
> flavour tending the flock
again at 3am and again at 6am before the day starts once more at 8am. There were births at all stages of the night and James tells me that to lose just the one lamb out of 22 is a good result. Once up and running, marked and ready to leave their pens, the ewes and her offspring can be taken out to pasture. The ram lambs are castrated and all have their tails shortened (it doesn’t hurt them) and then we see the idyllic sight of them bouncing around in the field. James will keep some of the ewe lambs to add to his flock but the rest will be taken to market in five months’ time, where they can expect to fetch between £60 to £100 each. Lambing is a critical time for a farmer and he has to be sharp and focused without much sleep. It really was an eye-opener to see James at work, looking after his livelihood and I wish him all the best for the remainder of his very own Lambing Live. Rainbow Wood Farm Claverton Down Bath BA2 7AR Tel. 01225 466366 www.rainbowwoodfarm.com 15
> flavour hummingbird bakery
Since arriving on Potobello Road in early 2004, The Hummingbird Bakery has taken London by a sinfully sweet storm with fluffy frosting, delightful designs and succulent sponges. Whilst plans to recreate the bakery in the South West may not be on the horizon just yet, we couldn’t resist treating you to some of the best recipes from their new book, just in time for Easter!
sweet treats
Walnut and Honey Loaf Serves 8-10
1 Preheat the oven to 170°C, then grease the loaf tin with butter and dust with flour. Using a hand-held electric whisk or a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Break in the eggs one at a time, whisking well. 2 Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt, then add these dry ingredients to the batter in two stages and mix on a low speed until just incorporated. Mix in the yoghurt, vanilla essence and half the honey, then stir in the walnuts by hand. Pour or spoon the batter into the prepared loaf tin and bake for 50-60 minutes or until the sponge is firm and a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean of any uncooked batter. 3 While the cake is cooking, place the remaining honey in a small saucepan with 50ml of water and bring to the boil, allowing the syrup to reduce by about half. Pour the warm syrup over the cake when it comes out of the oven, then leave to cool in the tin before turning out onto a wire rack and allowing to cool completely before serving. 16
Photography by Kate Whitaker
190g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing 190g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 190g caster sugar 3 eggs 1 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp salt 25g plain yoghurt 1 tsp vanilla essence 2 tbsp runny honey 60g walnuts, roughly chopped One 8.5 x 17.5cm (3½ x 7in) loaf tin with 7.5cm (3in) sides
> flavour hummingbird bakery
Marbled Cupcakes Makes 12–16 cupcakes For the chocolate and vanilla sponges 80g unsalted butter, softened 280g caster sugar 240g plain flour 1 tbsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 20g cocoa powder 2 large eggs 240ml whole milk ½ tsp vanilla essence For the chocolate frosting 200g icing sugar 50g cocoa powder 80g unsalted butter, softened 25ml whole milk For the vanilla frosting 250g icing sugar 80g unsalted butter, softened 25ml whole milk ¼ tsp vanilla essence One or two 12-hole deep muffin tins 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C and line a muffin tin with muffin cases. First make the flavoured sponges, beginning with the chocolate one. Using a hand-held electric whisk or a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment, beat together half each of the butter, sugar, flour, baking powder and salt, along with all of the cocoa powder, on a low speed until resembling fine breadcrumbs. 2 Whisk the eggs with the milk by hand in a jug, then pour half of this mixture into a second jug and set aside for the vanilla sponge. Take the first jug with the egg mixture, pour three-quarters of it into the dry chocolate sponge ingredients and mix on a low speed to combine. Adjust the speed to medium and continue mixing until smooth and thick. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then add the remaining quarter of egg mixture from the first jug
and continue to mix on a medium speed until all the ingredients are incorporated and the batter is smooth once again. 3 For the vanilla sponge, repeat step 1 with the remaining half of the butter, sugar, flour, baking powder and salt, but this time no cocoa powder. Take the second jug of egg mixture, whisk in the vanilla essence, then repeat the step, pouring it into the dry vanilla sponge ingredients and mixing as described. 4 Divide the chocolate batter between the muffin cases, filling each by about a third. Top with the same quantity of vanilla batter and use a teaspoon handle to swirl the two mixtures together. If any batter remains, use it to fill more cases in a separate muffin tin. Place in the oven and bake for 18–20 minutes or until well risen and
springy to the touch. Let the cupcakes cool then transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely. 5 To make the chocolate frosting, whisk the icing sugar with the cocoa powder and butter on a low speed, until the mixture is sandy in consistency. Pour in the milk, still mixing on a low speed, then increase the speed to high and whisk the frosting until soft and fluffy. Repeat this step for the vanilla frosting, but omitting the cocoa powder and mixing the vanilla essence with the milk before adding it to the frosting. 6 When the cupcakes have cooled, spread 1 tbsp of each frosting onto each cake using a palette knife, then swirl the two for a marbled effect.
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> flavour hummingbird bakery
Blood Orange Cheesecake Serves 8–12 For the biscuit base 220g digestive biscuits 100g unsalted butter, melted ½ tsp finely grated blood orange zest For the cheesecake topping 700g full-fat cream cheese (such as Philadelphia) 100g ricotta cheese 120g caster sugar 2 tbsp finely grated blood orange zest 3 large eggs For the orange jelly 100ml blood orange juice, strained 2 leaves of gelatine One 20cm diameter spring-form cake tin
1 First line the base of the cake tin with baking parchment. In a food processor with the blade attachment, blitz the digestive biscuits into fine crumbs. Or place the biscuits in a plastic bag, seal it closed and crush with a rolling pin. Pour the biscuit crumbs into a bowl, add the melted butter and orange zest and mix together with a spoon. Tip the mixture into the prepared tin, pressing it into the base with the back of the spoon, and leave in the fridge for 20–30 minutes to cool and set. 2 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 160°C and make the cheesecake topping. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment, or a hand-held electric whisk, beat together the cream cheese, ricotta, sugar and orange zest until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing thoroughly. 3 Pour the cheesecake onto the chilled biscuit base and place in a roasting tin. Fill this with water so that it comes to about 5mm from the top of the cake tin,
Top tip To prevent any water leaking into the cheesecake while it is baking, place the filled cake tin on a large piece of foil and fold it up around the sides of the tin. Then place the cake tin in the roasting tin and fill with water. 18
creating a water bath (or bain marie) for the cheesecake to bake in so that it doesn’t dry out. 4 Bake in the oven for approximately 40 minutes or until the cheesecake is a light golden colour, especially around the edges, and firm to the touch, with only a slight wobble in the middle. Allow the cheesecake to cool down to room temperature while still in the tin, and then place in the fridge to set for a few hours, or preferably overnight. 5 Before serving make the orange jelly to go on top of the cheesecake. In a small saucepan, gently heat the orange juice and then remove from the hob. Soften the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water, then drain and dissolve the softened gelatine in the warm orange juice. Allow the jelly to cool slightly before pouring over the cheesecake, then place in the fridge to set for approximately 1 hour.
> flavour hummingbird bakery
Lemon Meringue Cupcakes Makes 12–16 cupcakes For the sponge 80g unsalted butter, softened 280g caster sugar 240g plain flour 1 tbsp baking powder ¼ tsp salt 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest 2 large eggs 240ml whole milk For the filling and frosting 200g caster sugar 4 egg whites 70g lemon curd One or two 12-hole deep muffin tins Cook’s blowtorch (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C and line a muffin tin with muffin cases. Using a hand-held electric whisk or a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter, sugar, flour, baking powder, salt and lemon zest on a low speed until the ingredients are well incorporated and resemble fine breadcrumbs. 2 Break the eggs into a jug, add the milk and whisk together by hand. Pour threequarters of the milk and eggs into the dry ingredients and mix on a low speed to combine. Increase the speed to medium and keep beating until smooth and thick, scraping down the sides of the bowl from time to time. Pour in the remaining milk and eggs and continue to mix on a medium speed until all the ingredients are incorporated and the batter is smooth. 3 Spoon the batter into the paper cases, filling each by about two-thirds. If any batter is left over, use it to fill up to four more cases in a second tin. Bake in the oven for 18–20 minutes or until risen and springy to the touch. Leave to cool slightly before removing from the tin and placing on a wire rack. Leave to cool completely before you frost them. 4 To make the frosting, put the sugar into a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Meanwhile whisk the egg whites until just foamy. 5 Allow the sugar to boil for 5–10 minutes or until it has reached the soft-ball stage (see tip), then increase the mixer speed to medium and pour the sugar on to the egg whites. (Be careful as the sugar is extremely hot.) When all the sugar has
been added, increase the speed to high and whisk until the underside of the bowl feels lukewarm. The meringue should have quadrupled in size and be very white, smooth and fairly shiny. 6 Once the cupcakes have fully cooled, lay them out on a tray and hollow out the middle of each cake using a sharp knife. Make the hole about 2cm deep and 2cm wide and keep each cut-out piece of sponge. Using a teaspoon, fill the holes about half full with the lemon curd and place the cut-out piece of sponge back on top, trimming to fit if needed. Top the cupcakes with the prepared meringue, using a tablespoon and swirling the frosting to resemble the top of a lemon meringue pie. Using a cook’s blowtorch, lightly brown the meringue to give it a baked appearance. If you don’t have a blowtorch, simply pop the frosted cupcakes under a hot grill for a few seconds to brown them.
Top tip To check whether your sugar syrup has reached the soft-ball stage, use a spoon to drop a small amount into a bowl of very cold water. If the syrup has been cooked to the correct heat, it will form a soft ball in the water. Removed from the cold water, this ball won’t retain its shape but will flatten in your hand.
The Hummingbird Bakery Cake Days is published by Harper Collins, RRP £20 19
> flavour xxxxxxx
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> flavour sweet treats
Before the annual Easter egg hunt takes place, here’s some irresistible eye-candy for your shopping basket...
James Chocolates The Easter Bunny has been busy at James Chocolates, hand crafting a range of luxury chocolate goodies. There really is something for all tastes in this year’s selection… For the best of both worlds, try the new cupcake egg! A thick, hollow chocolate egg decorated in the style of a cupcake with chocolate frosting swirls and edible glitter. Three varieties are available: white chocolate with vanilla and fudge, milk chocolate with strawberry, dark chocolate with coffee and caramelised pecan. For an alternative to the lollipop, try the egg on a stick! Enjoy milk,
dark or white chocolate eggs held upright by a wooden stick! These eggs are great fun for Easter egg hunts as they can be stuck into the ground. Don’t let the children have all the fun though, they’re great for adults too! For something fiery, try the firecracker egg! Ecuadorian dark chocolate with ancho chilli and popping candy combine spectacularly to make the popular firecracker flavour. This is moulded into an egg and hand topped with an explosion of edible glitter, white chocolate and pink peppercorns for a unique eggsperience! For a taste of the award-winning, try the spot egg! A luxury egg in thick chocolate with an eye-catching, hand piped decoration. Available in five delicious flavours: milk, caramel, vanilla and sea salt (Gold Great Taste Award Winner), dark bitter ginger, white strawberry and black pepper (Gold Great Taste Award Winner), dark Ecuador 70% and milk Venezuelan 43%.
Flavour Reader Offer 15% off all chocolate on www. jameschocolates.co.uk (excluding P&P). Just type in the discount code FLM0411 at the checkout. Valid until the end of May.
Serious Treats Serious Treats award-winning chocolate brownies are made using only the finest ingredients including Shipton Mill organic flour, real butter, free-range eggs and Montezuma’s 73% cocoa solids chocolate. No additives or preservatives are used in their brownies giving them a true homemade taste. 01275 545952 or 07766 086112 www.serioustreats.co.uk
Clifton Cakes Clifton Cakes’ brand new Easter Egg range is as gorgeously chic as their infamous chocolate shoe collection. As you would expect from Clifton Cakes, their handcrafted eggs are made with the finest Belgian chocolate and available in an array of fabulously different styles. Pick from our trademark zebra, polka dot red, red, flowery and leopard print finishes, or try something from the new farmyard or safari collections. Deliciously different and beautifully packaged, these eggs are guaranteed to please kids (and adults) of all ages. 120 St George Road, College Green, Bristol 01179 277693
www.cliftoncakes.co.uk
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> flavour lovely lamb
The signs and traditions of spring are all around, not least the seasonal British lamb which is making its way into our favourite butchers across the country. Why not try something new this Easter with these modern alternatives to impress everyone around the dinner table...
lovely lamb
Lamb, shallot and citrus kebabs with soy and honey dipping sauce Serves 4 Ingredients For the lamb kebabs: 450g leg of lamb cut into 3cm dice 24 medium shallots peeled 8 bayleaves 2 tbsp vegetable oil for cooking For the marinade: 2 large oranges, rind grated and then juiced 1 lime, rind grated and then juiced 2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce 2 tbsp dark soy sauce 3 tbsp hoisin sauce 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp tomato ketchup 8 whole star anise 22
2 garlic cloves peeled and crushed into a paste Freshly ground black pepper For the dipping sauce: 1 red chilli diced finely without the seeds A handful of coriander, finely chopped 1 tbsp of runny honey 1 tbsp of dark soy sauce 1 tbsp of light soy sauce A dash of sesame seed oil The juice of two limes Method 1 Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade stirring well. Soak the skewers in hot water to prevent them from burning during cooking. 2 Thread a bay leaf onto the first skewer
and then alternate the shallots and the lamb onto the wooden skewer and repeat with all skewers. Lay the kebabs in a shallow dish and then pour over the marinade and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours, if possible overnight, in a fridge. 3 Heat a heavy based grill pan or a frying pan, drizzle with the oil, heat well then place the kebabs in the pan and fry on medium heat for 3 - 4 minutes on each side brushing the kebabs with remaining marinade throughout the cooking process. Take care not to have the heat too high or you will burn the marinade. 4 Meanwhile for the dipping sauce mix all the ingredients together. 5 Serve with a green salad, basmati rice and little pots of the dipping sauce.
> flavour lovely lamb
Roasted leg of lamb with a shallot and chorizo stuffing Serves 6 Ingredients For the leg of lamb: 1.13 kg boneless leg of lamb, butterflied 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 tbsp rosemary leaves 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp small mint leaves (or torn larger leaves) 2 tbsp rapeseed oil ½ lemon, juiced Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the chorizo stuffing: 150g breadcrumbs 4 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 sprig rosemary 1/2 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 8 shallots, peeled and diced 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 1 tsp thyme leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 150g fresh Mexican chorizo, skinned and chopped into small chunks 2 tbsp mint, chopped 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped
mint and parsley and combine well. Taste for seasoning. 5 To cook the lamb, preheat the oven to 175°C. Season the lamb on both sides with sea salt and a little freshly ground black pepper. Lay the meat on a cutting board, fat side down and open like a book. Spoon as much of the chorizo stuffing as you can (about half or a little more) on the right side of the lamb. Fold the left side over the stuffing, as if you’re closing a book. Tie the lamb with butcher’s string at 2-inch intervals to hold it together while roasting. Carefully place the lamb on a roasting rack set in a roasting pan. 6 Put the remaining chorizo stuffing into a small dish and set aside. Roast the lamb for 1 hour and 20 minutes, rest for 20 minutes. While lamb is resting put the rest of the stuffing in the oven and cook for 15 minutes. 7 To serve, slice the lamb and serve with oven baked cherry tomatoes.
Worth a butchers… All of the lamb cuts at Pak Butchers are high in flavour, and many are great as a roast or as a quick meal – particularly the chops, or as a warming casserole. Ask the team for guidance and they will be more than happy to help. Visit the website and you can also get some delicious recipe ideas too! 0117 9518057 www.pakbutchers.co.uk
Method 1 To prepare the lamb, place it in a baking dish and coat it well on all sides with the smashed garlic, rosemary, chopped parsley, mint, oil, lemon and cracked black pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Take the lamb out of the refrigerator for 30 minutes before stuffing it, to bring it to room temperature. 2 To make the stuffing, toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tbsp rapeseed oil. Spread them on a baking sheet and toast for 6-8 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they are golden brown. 3 Heat a medium pot over high heat for 1 minute. Add the remaining rapeseed oil, the rosemary and the chilli; let them sizzle in the oil about 1 minute. Stir in the shallots, garlic and thyme and season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Turn the heat down to medium and cook about 10 minutes, until the shallots are translucent. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and discard the rosemary. While the shallots are cooking, heat a medium sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. 4 Crumble the chorizo into the pan, and sauté about 8 minutes, until the sausage is crisp and cooked through. Drain the chorizo of excess oil and add it to the bowl with the onions. Stir in the breadcrumbs, 23
> flavour gourmelli
seeking out truffles The taste of truffles – black or white – is a culinary experience not to be forgotten. Discerning gourmet cooks can now have the joy of using these prestige ingredients on a regular basis thanks to a range of products from www.Gourmelli.co.uk, suppliers of rare, quality food straight to your doorstep. Gourmelli’s collection of exquisite products will be an inspiration to anyone who enjoys cooking and eating; particularly those who like to entertain and spoil their friends. Gourmelli prides itself on supplying first-class produce and first-class service and aims to impress even the most discerning of cooks! Gourmelli Cranes Yard Turvey Bedfordshire MK43 8EN Tel: 01234 882310
Scallops with truffle butter sauce This wonderful dish with the delicate taste of scallops will serve 4 people but is easy to scale up for a crowd. TARTUFLANGHE TRUFFLE PEARLS Take a look at the fabulous range of truffle products, including incredible Tartuflanghe Black Winter Truffle Pearls made from the juice of black winter truffles and pearlised. It has the exquisite taste of truffles, the sophisticated texture and colour of caviar and is suitable for vegetarians. Costs £18.20 for 50g.
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Ingredients 12 large scallops 1 tbsp Truffle Hunter white truffle oil 50g Truffle Hunter white truffle butter 30ml white wine vinegar 80ml double cream 1 large shallot finely chopped 2 tbsp. olive oil 60ml dry white wine Salt and pepper to taste Chopped parsley Oil spray
1 In a small saucepan, sauté the shallots in olive oil until translucent, 3-4 minutes on a medium heat. Add the white wine and vinegar then reduce until syrup-like consistency. Add the double cream and reduce by half. Once reduced, turn off the heat and swirl in 1 tbsp of butter at a time. Finally stir in the truffle oil. 2 For the scallops, heat a griddle pan on high for about 10 minutes. Rinse scallops thoroughly and carefully. Pat dry with paper towel and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Before grilling, spray scallops with oil spray. Fry 2-3 minutes each side. 3 To serve, sprinkle with parsley. Delicious served on a bed of spinach.
> flavour xxxxxxx
for lovers of good food... At Gourmelli we specialise in hard to find ingredients for discerning gourmet cooks. Over the years we have developed a real passion for food and want to share some of the foods we have found with you. Please visit our website www.Gourmelli.com and get a taste of what’s to come. We have started with just over 200 items for you to choose from with many more to follow!
Colatura - the REAL essence of anchovies – we first saw this on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen and we found a traditional artisan producer in Sicily!
Le Comptoir de Mathilde Rum Baba – these small, bun-shaped caps have been soaked in rum and presented in a lovely jar. Choose from nine flavours and use with desserts, eat with coffee or just indulge whenever the mood takes you!
Truffle Caviar – this is incredible – made from the juice of black winter truffles and pearlised! The exquisite taste of truffles and the sophisticated texture and colour of caviar... Its culinary potential is limited only by your imagination.
Mille et Une Huiles Almond Oil – this Almond Oil has a sweet fragrance that is suitable for marinades. Perfect with raw salmon with dill or basil, trout and pastas. Also try in pistachio, peanut and argan.
Bergamot Panettone – we stock a range of Bergamot products from Italy, marmalade, Bergamaretti, chocolates but as Easter is coming the Bergamot Panettone is something else. Why not try it?
a passion for food
+44 (0)1234 240000 Gourmelli | The Old Coach House | Turvey | Beds | MK43 8EN | United Kingdom
visit www.Gourmelli.com
*Terms & Conditions apply
✁ 10% off
your first order plus free gift with every order dispatched before 30th April 2011* Code: FLONAPR11 25
> flavour stapleton arms
stapleton arms This month Faye Allen finds some country comfort along with a touch of Regency glamour... Escaping to the country for the weekend is a popular way to spend our 48 hours of freedom. There’s something truly rejuvenating about getting out of the city to remind ourselves that English greenery is some of the best in the world, offering a tranquility unrivalled by any paid therapist, spa day or super berry. That’s why I jumped at the chance to visit The Stapleton Arms, a coaching inn placed in the middle of the very picturesque village of Buckhorn Weston. For those that aren’t too familiar with Dorset, Buckhorn lies on the fringes of the Blackmore Vale, the hidden gem of the Dorset countryside and depicted vividly by Dorset’s own Thomas Hardy. The invitation made for a perfect excuse to jump in the car, pick up the folks and enjoy a weekend in style. As a former resident of the Dorset fields, I can confirm that The Stapleton Arms has been the talk of the village for some time. The recent renovation has certainly made this old coaching inn look as though it’s fallen straight out of a Jane Austen novel, interspersed with modern, comfortable and chic flourishes.
The Stapleton Arms Church Hill Buckhorn Weston Dorset SP8 5HS 01963 370396 www.thestapletonarms.com 26
Enjoy large, tanned leather sofas, slateflag floor, Farrow and Ball paintwork and large oak tables. The owners of this pub clearly understand what a country rambler is looking for when they venture in from the great outdoors. They want comfort which is in abundance especially with their stylish bedrooms upstairs; they want a drink, hence a vast selection of local ales, cider, draught and bottled beers and a wine list showcasing a collective and intriguing selection of new, old and emerging wines; and lastly, they want a plate of plentiful food to remember.
I sat down in the striking dining room painted in a rich Regency blue. The menu, delivered on a piece of brown parcel paper hinted at traditional British cooking in a stylish backdrop. The steamed Cornish mussels with shallots, garlic and white wine (£6) were a very promising start. With just enough seasoning and the perfect quantity of garlic, this seafood starter was light on the palate and very moreish. The coq au merlot with root mash, steamed Dorset greens and croutons (£12) was a lighter take on the classic French coq au vin and this version certainly lived up to the original. Served with perfectly steamed veg, the chicken fell from the bone and was light enough to be tempted by the dessert menu, but pleasant enough to send me into a comfortable state of satisfaction. Nothing quite beats mum’s roast, but the Stapleton Arms comes very close with their naughty but nice goose fat roasted potatoes, (the true test of any offering) and a slow cooked shoulder of lamb with mint sauce and Dorset greens (£12.95). The curtain was drawn at the generous helping of sticky treacle tart (£5.50) The bitter note of the crème fraiche which it was served with made for a refreshing end for such a rich meal. The weekends are precious and finding a retreat in The Stapleton Arms which bubbles with warm hospitality, proper home-cooked food and traditional values at its heart was well worth the wait. ■
> flavour xxxxxxx
The owners of this pub clearly understand what a country rambler is looking for when they venture in from the great outdoors...
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> flavour coffee culture
coffee culture
On Saturday 21 and Sunday 22 May, Bath’s Recreation Ground will play host to the UK’s only annual coffee festival... The French and Italians are onto something. Although not one coffee bean originated from either of these places, coffee culture as we know it certainly did. These discerning connoisseurs will not even think about visiting an establishment which serves bad coffee; it’s just too important. And now it seems as if this coffee fever is spreading through towns a little closer to home with Bath right at the forefront. Last year’s Coffee Festival saw over 7,350 turn up for a taste of what the region and the world has to offer and this year the organisers have made some exciting additions that promise to attract even more coffee fans. With a variety of exhibitors ranging from specialist coffee roasters and tea companies to luxury biscuit and cupcake producers, as well as demonstrations from celebrity chef and flavour columnist Martin Blunos, it’s a fun-filled day for all the family. If however you aren’t able to make it to the festival or indeed, Italy or France, then we have suggested some of our favourite places where a cup of freshly prepared coffee awaits that even our continental cousins would approve of…
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> flavour coffee culture
Jika-Jika Jika Jika has become the talk of the town with its relaxed atmosphere, friendly staff and most importantly, its delicious, fresh coffee. Hailed by some residents as “the best coffee in town”, this handy hangout has made quite a stir. Opened by Bath, England and British Lions rugby star Lee Mears and Matt Stevens, JikaJika is open seven days a week and is quite clearly driven by a fundamental passion for great coffee. You will also find a thirst quenching selection of loose leaf teas and a simple but tasty menu full of fresh and seasonal bites. Jika Jika are proud to call themselves “coffee geeks” and have spent a great deal of time researching, tasting and adapting everything you see on the menu with quality remaining the backbone of everything they do. Their custom blend of espresso is prepared by award-winning baristas working alongside UK latte art champion, Paul Whitehead and offers a unique drink full of complex and delicious flavours. Jika Jika, 4a Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2ED 01225 429 903 www.jikajika.co.uk
Reader offer Receive 20% off your order! Just mention flavour magazine at the till
A taste of the new menu… Breakfast (from £4): Freshly prepared bircher muesli with dried cranberries and granol. The legendary Jika Jika breakfast burrito (cures a hangover from 50 yards). Lunch (from £4.75): Oven baked flatbreads. Freshly prepared wraps and ciabattas including smoked Cornish mackerel, horseradish and plum tomato and sweet potato falafels with Moroccan spiced carrots. Daily prepared salads including the superfood salad - with broccoli, alfalfa sprouts, peas, quinoa and feta. Homemade cakes and slices.
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> flavour coffee culture
Made by Ben Sandwich Bar and Deli Becoming quickly renowned on Walcot Street for their exceptional food and coffee, Made By Ben is a must stop for those on the go in Bath. Ben proudly offers a diverse selection of fine foods from the kitchen including the award-winning Bertinet Bakery and Thoughtful Bread Company. Serving coffee, sandwiches, soups and salads, Made By Ben use only the finest locally sourced ingredients as well as specialty coffee at its best from Lazy Jose. Pop in if you want a picnic hamper with a rug for 2-30 people, a party that needs catering for or simply a delicious lunch meeting. Local delivery is free. 100 Walcot Street, Bath 01225 319999
Avenue Café The Avenue Café, a classy retreat in the delightful suburb of Henleaze, offers an extensive all day breakfast menu, as well as an array of classic cafe cuisine, from sandwiches to paninis, pasta dishes to delicious risottos and a variety of daily specials.
www.madebyben.com Renowned for its great coffee made from the wonderful Deco espresso machine and homemade cakes, Avenue Café is the perfect stop-off. Enjoy a great value set menu, outside seating and easy parking. 96 Henleaze Road, Bristol BS9 4JZ 01179 040064
www.avenue-cafe.com
Zazu’s Kitchen Zazu’s Kitchen is a popular upmarket cafe/eaterie open seven days a week in the heart of Bristol’s ‘Cultural Quarter’, Stokes Croft. By day it serves fantastic breakfasts and lunchtimes involve freshly rolled pastas, risottos and seafood alongside daily specials. On Friday and Saturday nights Zazu’s open from 7pm for suppers and dinner. The back lit by candles with crisp linen and glass on the tables creates a unique atmosphere akin to a pop up restaurant or eating room. Zazu’s beautiful menu is changed weekly and every element of your dinner is lovingly prepared and presented in the small open-plan kitchen which brings a wonderful bustle to this calm, relaxing space. Zazu’s Kitchen, 45 Jamaica Street, Stokes Croft. 0117 923 2233
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> flavour coffee culture
Café Retreat Café Retreat is more than just a café offering drinks and light snacks, it is also a retreat giving you the opportunity to escape and hideaway from your usual surroundings. Each Café Retreat offers great value for money, homemade food with everything being produced from scratch by the Café Retreat Team. Their breakfasts have become legendary at £4.95 for a substantial Full English. They also offer lighter, great value for money breakfast option! They produce and bake all of their cakes and cookies so they know exactly what goes into them. The flapjacks at 75p each, the yummy brownies at £1.25 each and the scrumptious carrot cake at £1.50 each are a great complement to the
Let them eat cake
various coffees and teas that they serve. All of the coffees, teas and drinking chocolate are supplied by local company Clifton Coffee, who work in partnership with growers internationally as well as the Rainforest Alliance and the Soil Association. Café Retreat has three cafes in Bristol all of which have a similar relaxing continental theme with their turquoise paintwork and mirrors reflecting the light giving a light, airy space in which you can take five minutes out and enjoy. Café Retreat at The Downs Next to the Water Tower, Stoke Road, Durdham Downs, Bristol BS9 1FG 01179 23 8186 Café Retreat at 45 Whiteladies Road Clifton, Bristol BS8 2LS 01179 73 2842
If you’ve got a celebration coming up or you simply want to treat those around you, Café Retreat will put a selection box together for you. Be warned, they’re addictive!
Café Retreat at 6 Victoria Street Redcliffe, Bristol BS1 6BN 01179 29 8185
Email: relax@caferetreat.co.uk
www.caferetreat.co.uk relax@caferetreat.co.uk
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> flavour new world order
new world order Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.
I felt like a real wine geek the other morning. I was standing at my local train station (so small it doesn’t have a waiting room) at 8am waiting for a delayed train with frozen toes and fingers. And my first thought, other than for my numb feet, was about the risk of spring frost to the new buds in the vineyards – which can do much greater damage than the hard winter frosts when vines are happily in hibernation mode. I had a little word with myself as I was warming up my fingers on the train and resolved to conjure up something more interesting. Already on the brain, it was hard not to think about wine. As I sat looking at the sunrise spilling across the rolling Gloucestershire countryside, I realised that across the southern hemisphere winemakers would be fighting the pressures of time as another long day of harvesting drew to a close. Fantastic advances in technology over the decades mean that a lot of harvesting can now be completed at night. However,
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for some more premium or hard to access vineyards, the harvest can only be completed by hand – which generally means by daylight. Leaving the grapes on the vine for too long means that they over ripen, leading to too much sugar in the grape. The weather around this time is just as critical as at any other point during the vine growing season – too much rain here can cause rotten fruit, and is just as damaging to the potential harvest as spring frost. If you ever see a world map of wineproducing regions, you’ll notice that they fit into a band in the north and south hemispheres. The reason for this is that it’s only possible to grow grapes within these narrow bands of latitude due to the climate. The UK sits at the most extreme northerly border and is only successful with wine (and life as we know it!) because of the Gulf Stream. The southern hemisphere mirrors Europe with regions where there are clearly defined seasons. Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand are the largest and best known – and all hugely successful in the UK market. Here’s just a snapshot of what the ‘new world’ has to offer.
> flavour new world order
Gorgeously aromatic, easy to drink but still relatively unknown – the Torrontes grape from Argentina. This grape is growing in popularity but not fast enough for my liking. It doesn’t need food but is a great match for anything spicy, tomatobased or equally light, simple fish dishes. At Cactus Jacks Mexican restaurant in Salisbury you’ll find a multitude of dishes encompassing all these flavours. Described as ‘rustic, earthy and candlelit’, there’s also a great atmosphere to enjoy the range. Go for the ‘contemporary’ menu and explore lime and chilli chicken or tiger prawns with spring onions, ginger, chilli and garlic – all washed down with a bottle (or two) of the moreish Etchart Torrentes. www.cactusjacks.co.uk Oaked Chardonnay is most definitely not a wine on trend at the moment, thanks to the wave of cheap, new world versions churned out over the last two decades. Alas, it’s ruined the sales of many a fantastic product and potentially put a generation of consumers off this style for life. If you love Burgundian Chardonnay or simply feel a little curious, try the stunning Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay
from Chile. Made with naturally occurring yeasts instead of commercial varieties (which gives much more natural, individual flavours to the wine) – this wine is fabulously complex and top quality. For a fitting venue, head to Terra Vina in the New Forest. Owned by Hotel du Vin’s very own Gerard Basset, this venue is to wine what The Fat Duck in Bray is to food. www.hotelterravina.co.uk Chile also has the perfect climate for growing some serious reds. Here we have the top end Veramonte Primus in the Casablanca Valley. Again made in a French style – this time emulating Bordeaux, with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot along with a base of Carmenere to give it a Chilean ‘twist’. We are left with a bottle of concentrated, mouth filling flavours of blackberries and cherries mingling with the spicy oak. Typical for the Bordeaux style, this type of wine is a great match for rich dishes such as duck. Head to the relaxed setting of the Hamborough Bar and Terrace at the Royal Hotel on the Isle of Wight’s South Coast. The duck confit, artichoke, orange and fine bean salad sets the Primus off beautifully as you take in the views over the gardens. www.royalhoteliow.co.uk
For our last red let’s move to a much cooler climate – New Zealand – perfect for growing our difficult friend, the Pinot Noir grape. A lot of people I know say that they don’t like Pinot Noir. I understand this comment completely. When I first started enjoying red wines, I was introduced to heavy, tannic reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Rioja, Australian Shiraz – enjoyed them, and consequently thought of them as ‘real’ reds. The Pinot Noir, by comparison, was initially a disappointment. Until, that is, I learnt to appreciate it for what it really is. Like a Chardonnay against a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir is very different to these heavier reds – but equally delicious. It’s important to remember these differences, or you can get the food match totally wrong – in which case, it is a waste. The Vidal Pinot Noir is an excellent example of the typical red fruit flavours the Pinot Noir grape gives, and is a great red wine choice for the warmer months. At the Snooty Fox in Tetbury, try the bubble and squeak or goat’s cheese, pinenuts and tomato charlotte in the bar or watch the world go by with a bottle in the sunshine on the front terrace. www.snooty-fox.co.uk
A typical vineyard in the Marlborough region of New Zealand’s South Island. 33
> flavour dirty girl diary
Dirty Girl diary Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project ‘Dirty Girl Kitchen’. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations that no foodie should be without...
Momofuku Cookbook
Trencherman’s Guide Rick Stein, Peter and Jonray Sanchez Iglesias of Casamia, Michael Caines and a host of other leading local chefs launched the new Trencherman’s Guide recently at a special lunch at Rick’s Seafood Restaurant. The new guide is now out and includes 101 of the best restaurants in the South West. To read the guide online, visit the Trencherman’s Guide website.
From Bath book publishers Absolute Press comes the daringly different Momofoku Cookbook. David Chang, a Korean American chef has achieved adulation with his restaurants in New York, the pinnacle of his achievement being the wildly addictive pork buns. Recipes are a clever combination of Japanese and Korean influences, mixed with a bit of Americana, ramen noodle dishes and Korean Kimchi alongside fried chicken. His Bo Ssäm recipe sums it up: Pork shoulder roasted, served with kimchi, rice, spring onions and lettuce leaves to wrap it all up in oysters served on the side.
www.trenchermans-guide.com
His restaurants are refreshingly relaxed and simple, almost ‘antirestaurant’, and the book has a directness which mirrors this. www.momofuku.com www.absolutepress.co.uk
Chefs Academy The already super cool Ashburton Cookery School has launched the Ashburton Chefs Academy to prepare the next generation of inspirational head chefs. The course is an accredited six-month Professional Culinary Diploma, and will equip students with the knowledge and skills to cook at the highest level. With over 40 other courses to choose from, designed to suit
beginners as well as experienced cooks, their team of professional chef tutors will inspire you to cook with imagination, passion and enjoyment. They have also just won the BBC Good Food Magazine Award for ‘Best Cookery School for Skills.’ Congratulations Ashburton. www.ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk 35
> flavour two greedy italians
family
THE ITALIAN
Antonio Carluccio talks about the sublime simplicity of Italian food culture and offers up some delicious recipes devised with fellow food lover Gennaro Contaldo...
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> flavour two greedy italians
way In Italy, food and family go together. The kitchen is the heart of the home where mamma rolls out fresh pasta dough, and nonna stirs the bubbling sauce on the stove. Nonno snoozes in his favourite armchair and a brigade of happy children plays in the courtyard. The traditional Italian family had many children and everyone, even elderly parents, lived together under the same roof. The husband, very much head of the household, went out to work and his wife stayed at home, in charge of everything else. Over the last 30 years, however, much has changed. Today’s modern family consists of parents and perhaps only one or two children. As the demographic of the Italian family has changed, so too have the most basic attitudes to food. Once, girls would have learnt the basics from their mother. Now, with mamma probably out earning a living, many young women have no idea how to cook; they have missed out on what many see as the ultimate intimacy of Italian family, learning to make, say, tortellini together… Older generations, even in the cities, frown upon the new way of eating, and it is not unusual for grandparents to invite their children and grandchildren for lunch on Sunday and special feasts like Christmas, and to cook the traditional three- or four-course meal. I see this with my own family in Italy when my sister cooks for everyone on Sunday. This is the time when families sit together to eat, an unshakeable Italian tradition. It is still unheard of that children eat earlier; even babies are encouraged to join in and taste. And as far as ingredients are concerned, they will be of good quality, and will taste good!
When friends meet after being on holiday, the question most often asked is, ‘Come avete mangiato?’ (How was the food?), even before asking what the weather was like!
Even if some are bought-in rather than homemade, they will be of a quality Italians have been brought up to expect. I firmly believe that however radically things might change in Italy, the fast-food culture of other countries will never be adopted or accepted. For Italians still enjoy good, home-cooked food and the favourite topic of conversation is food: when friends meet after being on holiday, the question most often asked is, ‘Come avete mangiato?’ (How was the food?), even before asking what the weather was like! A love of food may be inbred in Italians, but one wonders if, with all these changes in family life, it will manage to survive into the next generations. Will they still be making fresh pasta or gnocchi at home in 20 years’ time? Will family recipes continue to be passed down from mother to daughter? And what about that special celebration cake nonna made each year for the grandchildren’s birthdays? Might it just be easier to go to the pasticceria (pastry shop) and buy one? As in most western countries, life moves on at incredible speed, and families have to adapt. It is no different in Italy, but it would be extremely hard to imagine an Italy without the strong presence of family ties allied with a passion for food. ■ 37
THE PERFECT
SETTING The Park, one Michelin star restaurant, at Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa. Located just 6 miles East of Bath. With its stunning parkland views, grand features and elegant décor The Park is the perfect setting for an exceptional gourmet experience which commences with canapés in the beautiful Drawing Room. Executive Chef, Hywel Jones showcases his uncomplicated style and passion for full and clean flavours using the highest quality ingredients sourced locally where possible. 3 courses £70 and tasting menu £90 including pre dinner canapés. From 1st May The Park will be open for Sunday lunch – 3 courses £45 Open for dinner only Tuesday to Saturday. For reservations please call 01225 742 777. Lucknam Park, Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777 reservations@lucknampark.co.uk www.lucknampark.co.uk
> flavour two greedy italians
Pollo con carciofini, cipolle, patate rosemarino Chicken with artichokes, onions, potatoes and rosemary This simple recipe is perfect for a Sunday family lunch. Once prepared and put together, it can be left to the perfect cook, which is the oven! The dish is very versatile – the chicken can be substituted with rabbit (very good indeed), or by any other light meat (slivers of veal for instance, or even lamb cutlets). Do ensure, however, that you use the tender hearts of baby artichokes – which are available in spring and early summer – as the larger ones will be too tough. Ingredients 8 small artichokes (you could use those preserved in water, not brine, which you find in jars), prepared and quartered 1.8kg good-quality chicken, cut into chunks 1 large white onion, chopped 1kg new potatoes, scrubbed and halved or cut into chunks (depending on size) 2 tsp rosemary needles, plus a few sprigs for garnish 6 tbsp olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper Method 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6. 2 Put the chicken pieces, artichokes, onion and potatoes into a large roasting dish. Sprinkle with the rosemary needles, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Mix well with your hands so that every piece of meat is coated well. 3 Put into the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Take out, mix all the ingredients together well (using a spoon this time!) and return to the oven for another 30 minutes, after which the chicken should be cooked through and the potatoes should be tender. 4 Serve immediately, finished with a few sprigs of rosemary and accompanied with a simple green salad.
Pesche ubriache
Fresh white peaches in red wine
When I was in a restaurant in France once, my guests were drinking a very good claret. I saw some attractive peaches on a board nearby and ended up chopping some of them into a glass, adding a little sugar and some of the wine, to create this simple, delicious dessert. I thought I was being very creative, but learnt later that the French do it all the time! This dessert is so easy to prepare, but you must have white peaches (they can be found occasionally), and the wine must be strong (something like an Amarone). Ingredients 800g ripe white-fleshed peaches (or nectarines) 500ml red wine 150g caster sugar
flesh into small chunks and place in a bowl. Pour over the wine and sugar, mix and leave to chill in the fridge for a couple of hours, for the flavours to combine.
Method 1 Peel the peaches, then cut them in half and remove the stones. Cut the
2 Serve this extremely enjoyable seasonal treat either on its own or with a dollop of double cream. 39
> flavour mitch tonks
Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.
Here’s the ca ch With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice... Clams don’t get much airtime compared to their fellow shellfish, apart from in the US where the clam is featured regularly in the good old American favourite, clam chowder. But if you’re a fan of mussels (and who isn’t?) then try a few more clam dishes. Each bite is very juicy, with a combination of saltiness you’d expect alongside the sweeter taste of the meat, like you might find with lobster or scallops. There are many varieties but the ones you will find most often are carpet shell clams, razor clams and surf clams.
This month:
clams
If you’re lucky enough to spend time at the coast you may well have seen the little blow holes made by razor clams which bury themselves in the sand and occasionally pop to the surface. You’ve got to be nimble and fast to catch them, they’ll head back below the sand as fast as they can but not a lot will beat a fresh catch of razors just grilled on the barbeque – put it on your list of ‘must dos’!
Work well with... Clams of course work very well with other shellfish. I love to bake them with mussels, langoustines, chilli, white wine and passata. Chuck on a few herbs and bake tightly in a parcel in the oven so that it all steams together and can be served on the table. Realising beautiful colours and aromas, it looks fantastic and won’t disappoint. Also fantastic steamed open with sherry and a handful of coriander; a lovely Mediterranean combination. The clam works very well too with cured meats like chorizo and bacon, the combination of fat and saltiness is sublime! 40
The palourde or carpet shell gets its name from the stunning carpet-like pattern of dark brown streaks on its pale shell. These shellfish, which grow to around 8cm, are found near the high-water mark at low tide, two holes in the sand giving their presence away. Although palourdes are eaten with relish by the French, Spanish and Portuguese, they seem to have disappeared off the British menu, which is a surprise as the Victorians were terribly enthusiastic about them calling them “butter-fish” because they thought them richer and sweeter than cockles. The surf clam is a smoother-shelled clam and along with palourdes and razors, they can be found in most good fishmongers. There are plenty of clams in the South Coast fisheries harvested by sustainable methods so this is a good and pleasing choice of seafood for all.
> flavour mitch tonks
Spaghetti with clams, olive oil and parsley This recipe is a classic mix of pasta with shellfish. You can use mussels if you prefer but overall it is simple to make and a perfect dish for sharing with friends. (Serves 2) Ingredients 100ml extra virgin olive oil 2 large cloves of garlic, crushed 2 handfuls of clams A handful of fresh parsley, chopped A few handfuls of cooked spaghetti 1 red chilli, thinly sliced 1 bay leaf Method Put the oil into a pan over a gentle heat and add the garlic. Give it a good stir to ensure the oil is well flavoured.
Add the clams, half the parsley and the bayleaf and stir again, turning the clams over so they become coated in the oil and garlic. Cover the pan, turn the heat up slightly and wait for the clams to steam open – they will release loads of fabulous juice into the pan. If the clams take some time to open, don’t let them fry, just add a splash of water to create some steam to help them along. Remove from the heat, add the spaghetti, chilli and the remaining parsley, and toss together until the pasta is just warmed through.
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24/01/2011 17:27
The Fox is a smart country pub less than ten miles from Bath city centre. With a large selection of food and drink, from hearty sandwiches to a three course meal, the freshly prepared food is sure to tickle your tastebuds. Proud advocates of local produce, the team at the Fox raise their own livestock plus an impressive vegetable plot and herb garden. Weekend lunchtimes and evenings are very busy so book to avoid disappointment. Bookings for Sunday lunch are essential.
Broughton Gifford Melksham SN12 8PW Tel: 01225 782949 Web: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk
> flavour xxxxxxx
A
s we look increasingly to every corner of the British Isles for inspiration in booking this year’s holidays, flavour takes a trip down to South Devon to search out some of its top attractions. A versatile destination like no other, Devon can provide a romantic break for two, an action packed adventure for a group or a slow-paced sojourn for anyone looking to unwind. Whatever the reason to visit, you’ll always be guaranteed to find a wealth of foodie hot spots.
One of Devon’s lesser-known foodie havens is the picturesque village of Shaldon. A quaint Georgian village on the banks of the River Teign estuary, Shaldon is a characterful and charming stop off with its pretty thatched cottages and winding back streets. Relax on the beaches or explore the village and enjoy the plentiful supply of fresh, local produce. It also plays host to the ODE restaurant, one of the top 100 restaurants in the UK! Just a short drive away is Teignmouth, a historical and beautiful port on the mouth
of the Teign estuary, which will lay claim to your affections as soon as you arrive. Most of its history is wrapped up with its harbour and its great fishing potential. The pretty town nearby is predominantly Regency and Victorian in style and makes for a great afternoon browsing around the shops. If you follow your stomach when choosing a holiday destination, South Devon will not disappoint. Wherever you go, you’ll be sure to find passionate producers with one sole aim – putting Devon on the culinary map…
devonshire delights
Teignmouth Harbour 44
The ship Teignmouth’s stunning back beach and River Teign is the setting for this wonderful pub and restaurant. The kitchen team are lead by head chef Gavin Athanasiou, and his focus is on producing a Mediterraneanstyle feel to his food by using the best produce available. Gavin’s philosophy towards food is to use the best, local ingredients and to keep it simple. You can expect to see hand dived Start Bay scallops roasted in vermouth, garlic and chilli breadcrumbs, wild sea trout, samphire and brown butter and new season lamb rump, cauliflower purée, sprouting broccoli and port jus. On sunny evenings you can find Gavin on the barbecue outside cooking up some local mackerel, scallops, prawns and local meats. The pub is famous for its range of real ales and keeps its traditional feel with the wealth of locals in the bar. The outside area brings out the best of Devon with the view and the fresh sea air. The view takes in trawlers unloading their catch, ships docking in for the night and local rowers
training for the weekend race. There is nothing better than sitting outside the ship with a bowl of River Teign mussels a glass of wine whilst the sun sets on another glorious day on the back beach. Throughout the warmer months The Ship Inn hosts many events such as their annual four-day music festival over the August bank holiday, the folk festival,
and this year, The Ship Inn is hosting Teignmouth’s first Seafood Festival on the 13th-14th August. Queen St, Back Beach, Teignmouth, Devon TQ14 8BY 01626 772674 www.shipteignmouth.co.uk
seafood house & crab shack Rob and Amanda Simmonds at Seafood House supply top quality, fresh seafood, specialising in handpicked crab meat, spider crab, local lobster, hand dived
scallops, local Teign mussels and line caught fish. They have first hand experience in seafood with Rob working on his own fishing boats for over 27 years. Rob and Amanda are fully committed to sustainability and managing the stocks properly in order for their business to carry on as a sustainable fishery. Due to popular demand, they are planning on opening The Crab Shack, a new restaurant serving the same delicious fresh produce which has earnt them their glowing reputation. Amanda and Rob will be offering a French dining experience with fruits de mer being their signature dish. The fish will be caught daily, sent up the beach to the restaurant, cooked by their chef Josh (who has often accompanied Rob fishing) and onto your plate for lunchtime. They will also be offering many fine wines and champagnes to accompany and complement their dishes, perfect for a summer’s evening on the beach.
Seafood House, New Quay Street, Teignmouth, Devon TQ14 8DA Crab Shack, Queens Street, Back Beech, Teignmouth, Devon, TQ14 8BY 01626 778671 www.seafoodhouse.co.uk
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> flavour devonshire delights
ringmore house
A beautiful listed house within 50m of the River Teign, offering luxurious B&B accommodation with fabulous, homemade West Country sourced food for both dinner and breakfasts – and afternoon tea. Ringmore House is well known for its AGA Cookery courses which run throughout most of the year, and Helen’s famous cakes can be found in the local coffee shop. Ringmore House Brook Lane, Shaldon Teignmouth Devon TQ14 0AJ 01626 873323 www.ringmorehouse.co.uk
ode
Located in the picturesque coastal village of Shaldon, you’ll find Devon’s most exciting new restaurant: ODE. Head Chef Tim Bouget has worked alongside several of the world’s finest chefs. After training in the UK with 3 Michelinstarred Michel Roux, Louis Outier and Gaulteiro Marchesi, Tim and his wife Clare decided to bring their unique blend of innovative food and thoughtful hospitality to Devon. Tim and his team believe in true food values and are passionate about sourcing only the finest of regional and seasonal ingredients. They never compromise on quality and always strive for perfection, each dish being perfectly balanced in flavour and composition. A visit to Shaldon simply wouldn’t be complete without a trip to ODE! ODE Restaurant, 21 Fore Street, Shaldon, Devon TQ14 ODE 01626 873977
www.odetruefood.co.uk
cookies with love Located just ten minutes along the coast from Shaldon, Angela Stubbs from Cookies with love creates fabulous special occasion cookies from her family home in Torquay. The business started 16 months ago after she received rave reviews about her Christmas cookies at her son’s primary school. “From an early age, I’ve spent hours in the kitchen experimenting and with 20 years in the hospitality industry, it just seemed right to start up Cookies with love.”
Made with local free-range eggs and butter everything is done from scratch. Each order is individually handmade, baked, iced and then delightfully packaged in cellophane with co-ordinating ribbon tie. Available in gingerbread, vanilla and chocolate flavour, they are great for unusual wedding favours, birthdays, product launches or corporate gifts as they can be personalised to a particular theme and colour. 01803 329978/07890 196338 www.cookieswithlove.co.uk
“We have been working with Angela for the past six months and we are delighted with her beautiful creations. She’s a passionate local supplier offering bespoke celebration cookies which look fantastic and taste even better. ” Paul Downing, Dart Marina Hotel & Spa, Dartmouth.
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> flavour devonshire delights
Twentysix Café and Bistro Chef Denise Tarriela, with her fiancé and business partner Richard Hunter, opened the doors of twentysix Cafe and Bistro at the end of last summer. The basic concept was inspired by both their love affairs with France and their desire to introduce authentic French food to the region. French bistro classics dominate the menu, but the interior is inspired by the gentle, coastal colours and clean lines of New England. The result is a relaxing ambiance much appreciated by numerous, very loyal customers. Sunday brunch is a particular favourite with an impressive keyboard accompaniment of light jazz or classical music. Lunchtimes boast a range of French croques or tartines, homemade foie gras terrine, confit de canard, coq au vin, or Toulouse sausage with lyonnaise potatoes. Generous ‘platters to share’ include charcuterie, seafood or rustic vegetables. Afternoon tea at twentysix is a total delight
with its wide range of quality loose-leaf teas, home-made cakes, tarts and scones. Open everyday from 9.30am - 5pm, (9.30am-9pm in the warmer weather).
twentysix Café and Bistro 26 Regent Street Teignmouth Devon TQ14 8SJ 01626 879000 www.twentysixcafe.co.uk
“My daughter recommended we pop in when passing Teignmouth and I must say that we weren’t disappointed. We felt very relaxed and will definitely be back, but to try dinner next time!” G. Burton, Devon
the coffee rush
Reader offer! Mention flavour and receive a free, freshly-baked cookie with every drink purchased!
Only moments from the beach in Shaldon sits The Coffee Rush, a little gem of a coffee house perfect after a brisk coastal walk or lazy day on the beach at Shaldon. It is not hard to see how The Coffee Rush came runner up as Best Tearoom and Coffee House in Devon in 2009 and 2010, their coffee is simply delicious. The Coffee Rush serves freshly ground 100% Arabica beans and includes organic and Fairtrade hand-roasted coffee beans from around the world, made with organic Riverford Farm Milk. If you prefer tea, then the wide selection of quality teas, including loose leaf teas will be sure to quench your thirst. Open all day, The Coffee Rush aims to provide the highest quality food, with produce selected locally where possible. They offer Aga baked cakes and cream teas, gluten-free homemade cakes, fresh gourmet quiches, paninis and specials. As the warmer weather approaches, the staff can serve you from the wine bar so
sit back and relax with a chilled glass of Marborough Sauvingnon Blanc or a pint of Ale made only minutes away – accompanied by a wooden platter of cheeses, continental meats & olives, warm olive bread or a freshly prepared pizza.
The Coffee Rush 27 Fore Street Shaldon TQ14 0DE 01626 873 922 www.thecoffeerush.co.uk
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> flavour devonshire delights
trinity school This month flavour speaks to Stephen Rowe, catering manager at Trinity School in Devon to find out how this award-winning school is one step ahead in providing some of the best meals in the area… Our healthy eating policy covers the whole school, from children as young as eight months old in our nursery, right through to our A-level age groups in the senior department. We avoid additives wherever possible and stimulants, encourage sustainability and are always looking for the most natural, best quality, unrefined ingredients to use in our menus. Catering within the education sector has undergone some massive changes in the last 15 years. Caterers are now far more accountable both nutritionally and with food safety than ever before. It has been a difficult learning process for some but the end result has enabled a more nutritionally balanced product on the plates for children. We control the protein items but the children are free to choose the quantity and composition of everything else that goes in making up their meal. Fresh fruit for example is cut and available in unlimited quantities. Our yoghurt is homemade and we offer at least four main meal options at lunch, with a very popular Subway style baguette bar where children can choose their own fillings. A healthy snack and fresh fruit is always included. We also decided to colour code our menus, similar to the way supermarkets use 48
colour coding. First, each dish is analysed and then clearly displayed with its grouping. This helps the children to moderate the less healthy items (red), have confidence in the choices that form a healthy balanced diet (amber) and eat freely within the healthy choices (green).
“Children go through different phases of eating habits as they develop. It’s important they are encouraged and provided with the right information to make the right choices.” Children and adults will always love “happy comfort food” options. The secret is not in “denial” or a government enforced eating regime restricted by limiting choice. The secret of our success lies in awareness and education, not denial, giving them a choice of healthy options, alongside the less healthy options but made only with the best ingredients. It’s all about perception. Children go through different phases of eating habits
as they develop. It’s important they are encouraged and provided with the right information to make the right choices. Trinity encourages healthy eating outside the school too. We have a policy of encouraging parents to eat with the children at school whenever they wish. This gives parents a true understanding of what we provide, confidence that their children are being looked after properly and a good forum for feedback. Our preparatory department organises regular visits to local farms and businesses. Younger children learn about “field to fork” foods while older children learn about the business aspects of producing foods. We most definitely believe in the healthy body, healthy mind ethos, not only with the children but teachers too. We believe our to be proof of our success.
Trinity School Buckeridge Road Teignmouth Devon TQ14 8LY 01626 771508 www.trinityschool.co.uk email healthyeating@trinityschool.co.uk
RELAXED,
chic, understated
ELEGANCE d a rt m a r in a h o t e l & s pa
www.dartmarina.com Tel: 01803 837180 Email: info@wildfirebistro.com Sandquay Road, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9PH.
NOW OPEN Tucked away amid 80 acres of unspoilt Devon countryside this 18th Century Georgian house has recently undergone a major refurbishment programme, retaining its traditional character and charm. • Open for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner • 16 beautifully appointed bedrooms • Licensed for civil ceremonies • 5 mile fishery on the River Otter Deer Park Country House Hotel, Buckerell Village, Weston, Honiton, Devon, EX14 3PG Tel: 01404 41266 Fax: 01404 43958 www.deerparkcountryhotel.co.uk
T h e A p p l e Tr e e I n n Apple Tree Inn lies in the beautiful Somerset countryside in between Glastonbury and Shepton Mallet. Locally renowned chef Lee Evans and his wife Ally invite you to eat, drink and sleep at their charming rustic inn, where you’ll receive a warm welcome with roaring open fires, outstanding food, local ales, ciders and fine wines, as well as en suite accommodation. Work up an appetite with walks around the local countryside then enjoy a fine Sunday lunch at this top eatery. The Apple Tree Inn prides itself on quality throughout including loose leaf teas from lahloo of Bristol as well as excellent coffee from extract roasters also of Bristol. Previously head chef at the Wheatsheaf in Combe Hay, Lee has made this a true eating destination, priding himself on seasonal menus, local produce and quality from bread through to petit fours.
West Pennard, Glastonbury, Somerset BA6 8ND Tel: 01749 890060 or 01749 890090 Web: www.appletreeglastonbury.co.uk
The perfect venue for Sunday Lunch £15.95 for two courses or £19.95 for three courses Philip, our Head Chef and his team prepare a roast of the week and a limited Oakwood menu is still available for those that prefer to sample one of Philip’s inventive dishes. Call or email now to book.
T: 0117 937 1800 E: info@tracypark.co.uk W: www.tracypark.co.uk Tracy Park, Bath Road, Wick, Nr. Bath BS30 5RN
> flavour love your local
There’s never been a more critical time to buy local food. Apart from being super-fresh, it’s an important step in building resilient food chains around our fair city. At the forefront of this back-to-basics system is The Better Food Company…
love your local Completely local blue cheese and purple sprouting broccoli frittata Line a 7-8in oven proof dish with baking paper and preheat oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and whilst the water is heating, cut 250g purple sprouting broccoli florets from the stems and remove the leaves, then finely slice the stalks.
Currently most of the UK’s food ‘buffer’ reserves are at the discretion of the multinational ‘Big Four’ supermarkets, who use a ‘just in time’ ordering and delivery system, meaning they never hold stocks (or the risk of being left with stocks) of more than a few days’ supply. However, 90 per cent of the UK’s fresh produce is imported. Factor in rising transport and fuel costs, and the whole system starts to look a little shaky. And yet there is evidence that around Bristol we have enough agricultural land to produce nearly 40 per cent of our own fruit and veg. This is why buying local food is so important. It’s a partnership between farmers and consumers – if there’s demand, markets will grow. The award-winning Better Food Company is at the forefront of this rebirth of selfsufficiency. As well as having a passion for great tasting goodies, they’re also on a mission to be the conduit between those producers and an ever-growing band of consumers looking for a different way to feed themselves and their families. Indeed such is their commitment that part of the business, the growing operation in
Chew Magna, has recently been released and launched as a Community Supported Agriculture project, owned, run and managed by its member stakeholders. The recipe featured here, created by The Better Food Company’s head chef Dan Cripps, shows how easy it is to make great tasting healthy meals using local and affordable food, all available of course from The Better Food Company...
The Better Food Company Deli and Food Hall 94 Whiteladies Road Clifton Bristol BS8 2QX 01179 466957 www.betterfood.co.uk www.thecommunityfarm.co.uk.
Gently fry one medium onion in one tablespoon of rapeseed oil along with the stalks and blanch the florets in boiling water until tender. Keep the water, but remove and refresh the florets in cold water. Add half a ladle of the retained water (with the lovely broccoli flavours) to the onions and stalks while they’re frying. When the onion and stalks are soft (but not brown), put into the lined dish. Add the florets, season to taste and distribute the mixture evenly. Add 6 beaten eggs and top with 100g finely grated Bath blue cheese. Bake for about 20-25 minutes, depending on how you like your eggs cooked.
How local are the ingredients? Onions and purple sprouting broccoli from The Community Farm, eight miles from Bristol. Bath Blue Cheese made in Kelston, 12 miles from Bristol. Eggs from Redhouse Farm, Winford, 12 miles from Bristol. Rapeseed oil – Mellow Yellow from Northamptonshire – closer than Spain or Italy! 51
> flavour chef profile
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> flavour chef profile
chef profile Name: Stephen Walker Originally from: Lincolnshire Head Chef at: Mount Somerset Hotel I’ve been in the catering industry since I was 14 as my father was the general manager of the local hotel. I also looked after a small gastro pub just outside Tetbury called the Kings Arms where I worked as chef patron. This was different from the fine dining I had been used to but I loved it because it was so different. I love the diversity of our industry, it’s so different from one day to the next. From the different types of people you cook for and work with to the changing food trends. As an industry that never stops still.
Mount Somerset Hotel Lower Henlade Taunton Somerset TA3 5NB 01823 442500 www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk
I have spent a short time at The Savoy in London, which was a real eye opener - it helped me to realise that big cities were not my thing. I like working in the countryside. I knew James (the executive chef of the von Essen group) and when I was approached for the job I jumped at the chance to work in such beautiful surroundings for one of the best hotel groups in the country. To me it was a perfect partnership.
We offer people a quality experience with value for money whether it’s for a wedding, dinner or just a sandwich. As a chef, every place I work continues to influence my food. I also never fail to be influenced by the produce that Somerset offers. After all, when people try the dishes I want the ingredients to speak for themselves. I would like people to think of my food as simple, fresh and well constructed. I’ve been lucky enough to have cooked for some very famous and influential people in my time but the most important meals I‘ve ever cooked are always for my children. They’re my biggest critics and the next generation to put into practice the lessons I’m teaching them about good food, so getting it right for them is very important! Choosing cheffing as a career path is not a decision that should be taken lightly. I would absolutely recommend it as long as you go into it with your eyes open and don’t expect quick results. It’s a lot of hard work but you certainly get out of it what you put in - there are some great rewards if you’re willing to work for them. ■ 53
> flavour papaji’s
papaji’s East meets (South) West this month as Jennie Clark calls into Papaji’s for a cuppa with a difference...
Even as a tea enthusiast, I admit I don’t often take the opportunity to stray away from my beloved breakfast blend. But at Papaji’s bar, kitchen and teasmiths, it’s not just a case of switching your Assam for a peppermint – it’s a whole food and drink philosophy. Owner Andy Dodd opened Papaji’s in 2009, with more than fourteen years experience of running Bristol’s cocktail bars and restaurants. He’s a qualified Tea Master, and has worked on Glenburn Tea Estate in Darjeeling, India. The extensive tea menu includes eight from this estate, picked in different seasons, with part of the profits helping to fund schools and medical centres there. The drinks menu carries a range of both tea-based and classic cocktails, and the expert bar staff will be pleased to shake you up anything you fancy. Our exotic journey began with the Blue Star Tea Knee – Earl Grey Blue Star with Bombay Sapphire gin and hints of orange, almond and lemon served straight. We sampled two starters, the star of which had to be the pan-fried masala chicken livers with caramelized onions, carom seed mashed potatoes and beetroot air (£5.00). The spice mix was a rare and fabulously bold addition to the iron-rich livers, simply balanced with sweet onion marmalade and served alongside mash packed full of the fragrant, thyme-like carom seeds. The Sandalwood breast of chicken (£5.50) 54
> flavour papaji’s
Our exotic journey began with the Blue Star Tea Knee – Earl Grey Blue Star with Bombay Sapphire gin and hints of orange, almond and lemon served straight...
- this meat was pink and tender, with a great punch of flavour from the charred whole spices in the crust. For dessert the rice pudding took me right back to my own travels in India – a tiny pot of cold, bright saffron-yellow pudding, with pistachios, cardamom and topped with a chilli-hot banana chutney (£5.00), and we fought over who would get to finish cardamom and star anise crème brulée (£5.50).
was so subtly flavoured the additions barely registered, but the Mamaji’s winter chutney and cucumber yoghurt were delicious. For mains, the gorgeous quality of the pan-fried South coast sea bass (£13.50) was showcased in a really light, consommé-like sauce with occasional bursts of sweet red peppers and salty pata negra ham. The sticky tamarind glazed pork belly with masala sautéed new potatoes, baked apple and mango chutney (£12.50) brought new little touches to familiar West Country fare. My highlight of the evening though has to be the spiced Somerset Levels lamb rump steak with carrot and leek bubble and squeak, and chef’s jus (£14.50). I always find the flavour of lamb transformed and really made the most of with Indian spicing
The range of tea cocktails is really astounding, and the other two we tried were completely different to the first. The Tokyo Storm was served in a teapot with two small glasses – made of Japanese sake and flavoured with ginger and citrus fruits. I do like sake but I found the pungent combination a little too medicinal – although I don’t doubt its health benefits! Until I reflected on our meal, the word ‘fusion’ didn’t even enter my head – it’s been a feared word of criticism within the foodie world. But Papaji’s proves it’s like anything when it’s done well. The best of the South West’s ingredients, combined with classic techniques and recipes only benefit from knowledge of their Eastern counterparts - and I think we will too. ■ Papaji’s 109 Whiteladies Road Clifton BS8 2PB 01179 466144 www.papajis.co.uk 55
> flavour bath gardening school
bath gardening school l
This month we talk with owner of the newly-opened Bath Gardening School Emma Bond who shares what this life-enhancing pastime has meant to her...
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> flavour bath gardening school
It never ceases to amaze me how easy gardening is but it seems so complicated to so many people If you’ve always fancied the idea of a blossoming back garden ready to inspire and impress but in reality you don’t know the difference between your geraniums and your gerberas, then help from some very green fingers is at hand from The Bath Gardening School based at the city’s renowned Botanical Gardens. Having spent years working behind a desk in the country’s capital, owner of the school Emma Bond decided there was more to life than four walls and timed lunch-breaks: “I’ve worked in London all my life but always hated being stuck inside. It was 12 years ago when I decided I needed to make the break and I moved to Bath with my husband and a two-monthold baby. I don’t know how I did it, but it was the best decision of my life. I felt as if I had finally found what I had spent my life looking for.” Upon the move, Emma started her training beginning with an apprenticeship with the Women’s Farm and Garden Association, working as a landgirl for a year and a half. This was quickly followed by a two-year course at the horticultural college in Lackham, focusing on garden design and planning. “It was at this time that I met one of the most remarkable, inspirational figures in the gardening world. Suzanne Freemantle was my mentor and still to this day her teachings ring in my ears. She inspires so many young women who are looking to change career paths and focuses wholeheartedly on getting people outside.” Emma continues: “I always wanted to open up my own school but it was finding the right time to fit it in with my full time job as a landscape designer. It was not until I taught one of Suzanne’s lessons in rose pruning that I came back home and declared to my husband ‘right, now is the time to open the school!’” The school opened late last year and is designed to offer gardeners of all ages and experience the opportunity to learn new
skills in a sociable environment over the course of a day. Courses for the SpringSummer programme, which starts in April 2011, include the English country garden, planning a kitchen garden for beginners, garden photography and a beginner’s guide to beekeeping. All the courses have been designed to be informal and interactive, so that whatever your level of experience, you’ll learn something new, enjoy the day and be able to share ideas with like-minded people. “It never ceases to amaze me how easy gardening is but it seems so complicated to so many people. It truly has changed my life so much, I love everything about it and the purpose of the school is to show how much people can benefit from it.” Held in the Interpretation Centre in the Botanical Gardens, each one-day course priced at £99 includes coffee, tea and homemade cakes as well as a delicious lunch, either in the popular local foodie pub, the Marlborough Tavern (in April and May), or as a picnic in the park provided by Bath’s Made by Ben (in June and July). Professional gardeners who are experts in their field teach the courses, including James Alexander-Sinclair from Gardeners’ World, author Anne Wareham and Mark Diacono, head gardener at River Cottage as well as Louis Hodgkin of the Bath Beekeeping Association and no-dig advocate Charles Dowding.
The Bath Gardening School Orchard Studio Old Orchard 88a Walcot Street Bath BA1 5BD 01225 317977 www.thebathgardeningschool.com
Spring-Summer Events 16th April Kitchen garden for beginners 7th May A taste of the unexpected 14th May A beginner’s guide to beekeeping 4th June Garden photography 11th June A day with the bad tempered gardener 25th June Growing salads and other crops
Whilst feeling baffled by the immense knowledge that the horticultural world contains, Emma wanted to banish this mindset and make the lessons accessible to everyone: “Last year I realised that there are no outlets for people to learn about gardening in a friendly and relaxing environment in Bath. The courses will show people the many different things they can do in their garden, whether it’s turning it into a beautiful as well as productive kitchen garden or introducing people to beekeeping for the first time.” ■
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Easter
at Tortworth Court Four Pillars Hotel Join us this Easter, Sunday 24th April, and enjoy a sumptuous three course lunch in our traditional Moretons Restaurant or the elegant 2 rosette awarded Orangery from only .95 per person
 £16 � � � For bookings and further information call � 01454 263000
www.four-pillars.co.uk/tortworth
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Tortworth Court Four Pillars Hotel, Â Â? Â?Â?Â?Â? Â Tortworth, Wotton-under-Edge, South Gloucestershire, GL12 8HH
The Avenue, • Rosemary Restaurant  Stanton Fitzwarren, • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch Â? Â? Â? Swindon SN6 7SD • “All you can eatâ€? dinner on Tel: 0870 084 1388 Thursdays Fax: 01793 861857 • Japanese Ă la carte menu
• Afternoon cream tea on the patio
restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk
StantonHouseHotel
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www.stantonhouse.co.uk
> flavour tramshed
For those of you that aren’t already in the know, this month Bath saw a new opening on its cobbled streets in the form The Tramshed. We managed to pin down busy general manager Gareth Thomas to find out what all the hype is about…
the tramshed I love this industry! The excitement of running places where there’s always something happening is a very refreshing job. For me though, it’s definitely about the people. I like being the new boy in town - meeting new, like-minded people and building relationships is so rewarding. I moved from Birmingham to Bath with my work because compared to where I’m from, Bath is a big village where everyone knows each other, and I love that. Compared to its sister pubs, The Bathampton Mill and The Langton, the challenge of The Tramshed is its high street location. The other pubs in the group have a country setting, which we understand well. In the city we can take more of an urban approach with a fresh design and deliver good, seasonal produce in the same easy-going and modern setting which we’re renowned for. This won’t be the end of our urban openings either, we have the Botanist opening next week in Bristol too so fingers crossed we carry on doing something right! Food and wine is our main priority at The Tramshed. We serve modern British classics with Mediterranean twists. Next to the steaks you’ll find delicious pizzas, pastas and Greek mezzes as just a few
examples. We encourage the sampling of different ingredients and work closely with our suppliers to get inspiration in how to make our dishes stand out from the competition. Our wines are a real passion too and we try to unearth the best hidden gems.
I’ve worked with head chef Stuart Parsley for a number or years now and we have a good relationship, which is vital. Together we recruited a brand new kitchen team who are all here because of their passion to deliver fantastic food. We want to be known for great food and great service, every day of the week for whatever the meal. We want people to feel that they can pop in for a nice cocktail, good glass of wine or a cold continental lager and during the summer months, relax in our generous outdoor seating. It’s important to constantly entice people through the door. So from our prix fixe menu for £12.50 to our Sparkling Thursdays, where you can buy a bottle of house champagne for £20, or the traditional Sunday roasts, we think we’ve built a good case! ■
The Tramshed Beehive Yard Bath BA1 5BD 01225 421 200 www.thetramshedbath.co.uk 59
Tasty food and now even tastier rooms available.
One has been dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century.
The George Inn, Wedmore. “The love child of Henry Fielding and Bridget Jones.� Telephone: 01934 712124.
> flavour xxxxxxx
under the surface
with quartz-lite As we continue to feel the pinch of the recession, finding low cost solutions to giving your house a makeover has become the next best thing. This month Andrew Stowey from Quartz-Lite offers an alternative to refitting your kitchen worktops without the expense… What exactly is quartz? Quartz is a hard crystalline mineral which is found abundantly all over the world and after diamond, it is one of the hardest substances known to man.
outlast your kitchen.
What are the benefits? Quartz-Lite is made up of about 93 per cent quartz with 7 per cent polymers which binds it altogether and makes it non-porous. It is also scratch and heat resistant up to 300°F. Due to the specialised patented process of vacuum, vibration and curing under high temperatures in a kiln, Quartz-Lite has all the properties of stone but with greater performance and higher resistance to stains and impact.
Why should I choose Quartz-Lite rather over anyone else? Quartz-Lite have been supplying and fitting worktops in the South West region since 2004 and offer a personal service from start to finish. We are competitive on price and every piece is precisely measured to give a perfect fit.
How does it fit into my current kitchen? At only 8mm thick it can easily be installed over and around your existing worktops. This means we can cut out all of the disruption and mess associated with having to take out your old worktops and fit new, which invariably means retiling as well. How long will it take to fit? The good news is that most jobs only take one day to fit. How long will it last compared to any other work-surface material? Due to its hardness it will last just as long as any granite surface and will certainly
How much does it cost, on average? For a normal sized kitchen, an average cost would be around £1,500 - £2,000.
Is it easy to replace? If you are bored with your existing granite or tiled surface, Quartz-Lite can be fitted over practically any kitchen surface. What styles and colours are available? Quartz-Lite is available in over 20 different colours and for new kitchens we also offer an even greater range of colours. How do I find out more? For a free consultation and quote, then you can telephone us directly on 01179 373361 or visit www.quartz-lite. com where you can fill in the online form and we will aim to get back to you within one working day.
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Lovejoys Wholesale
LOCAL MEAT REARED IN THE COTSWOLDS • We specialise in high quality dry matured meat that is reared on Farm Assured farms in the Cotswolds. • We use all traditional breeds of cattle, sheep and pigs, such as Aberdeen Angus, Hereford and Gloucester Old Spot pigs. • These traditional breeds have a superior quality and taste. • Lamb, Pork and Chicken is Free Range and all the meat comes with full traceability. • Martins Meats has a team of highly skilled award winning Master Butchers who will prepare any specific cuts of meat that you may require.
"The best Sirloin of Beef I have ever tasted".
• Fruit • Dairy
• Vegetables • Bread
Marcus Ashenford Michelin Star Chef of 5 North Street Restaurant, Winchcombe Cheltenham
Quality ingredients for restaurant kitchens in the West Wilts and Bath area. Local produce grown exclusively for us including specialist crops.
‘If you are passionate about your food we’d like to talk to you’
FREE
HOME
UNIT 5, ORCHARD INDUSTRIAL EST,
DELIV
ERY
TODDINGTON, CHELTENHAM GL54 5EB OPENING HOURS MON TO FRI 6.00AM 4.30PM - SAT 6.00AM TO 12 NOON
01225 708838 www.lovejoyswholesale.com
ORDERS: 01242 621 493 | FAX ORDERS: 01242 620007 | EMAIL: sales@martinsmeats.com
BUY MEAT ON LINE AT: WWW.MARTINSMEATS.COM
The Catherine Wheel A grade I listed 17th century coaching inn sitting at the gateway to the Cotswolds, The Catherine Wheel pub boasts a long standing reputation for its warm atmosphere and traditional home cooked meals. Work up an appetite by trying one of the pub’s surrounding countryside walks and come back to dishes prepared from the finest, locally sourced ingredients. Alternatively, sit back and relax with a glass of chilled white on their sunny patio.
39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR Tel: 01225 892220 Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
> flavour xxxxxxx
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> flavour holcombe inn
holcombe inn
This month Faye Allen pays a visit to a quaint country pub that’s looking backwards to go forwards... Last weekend I decided to try a new cupcake recipe. What I successfully created instead was a small explosion with a handheld mixer and a kitchen caked in flour. Later, whilst throwing out my small, sizzling mixer, I thought of my granddad and his Kenwood Chef; a machine that outlasted him nearly 7000 cakes later. They really don’t, it seems, make things like they used to. Tucked off the beaten track, the old village of Holcombe has certainly stood the test of time since its appearance in the Doomsday Book. Whilst it probably didn’t prove the most tax-lucrative destination for William the Conqueror, this small but perfectly formed village seems to contain something else of equal worth; some old-fashioned English values and the 17th-century, grade II listed Inn is right at the heart of it. Julie explains to me that before her family moved in, the pub had been neglected and its sparkle lost amongst the cobwebs. Since taking it over, the family has created a warm, homely space, exposing in all its glory the quirks and features associated with a traditional English free house. The team is also in the middle of renovating the bedrooms to include luxury en-suite bedrooms and Italian limestone features.
The Holcombe Inn Stratton Road Holcombe BA3 5EB 01761 232478 www.holcombeinn.co.uk 64
Waiting for our table, we sat by the bar and admired the extensive and beautiful collection of wines, keg beers, ales and liqueurs, the painstaking work of a wellrounded wine lover. Impressed that each one could be chosen by the glass, I opted for the San Giorgio Breganze, 2009 Pinot Grigio (£4). This grape has taken a bashing with the cheap, vinegary alternatives available on offer at the supermarkets, but the Pinot really does deserve a little more credit. With its subtle floral aromas, it is a refreshing and clean drink.
Moving to the dining area, we sat down to the menu of the day containing a few favourite British dishes with an influence from the French. I couldn’t resist the beef carpaccio with confit tomatoes, quail’s egg and truffle mayonnaise (£7.50). Succulent and tender, the beef was testament to its local suppliers in Newton St Loe and the warm quail’s egg in breadcrumbs made the perfect partner to the earthy flavours of the truffle. My guest chose the poached ballotine of salmon where the foie gras and spiced lentils (£7) showcased the freshness and the flavour of the fish in all its glory. From Brixham scallops to Somerset gammon, the choice for the main was country classic and tricky. I thoroughly enjoyed the Cornish red mullet with confit fennel, courgette, aubergine, olive oil mash, tapenade and pesto (£12.95). There was however a little too much to comfortably get through and the vegetables tasted too similar to justify the attempt. The fish however, was cooked to perfection and fell apart at the sight of my fork. My guest went for the rib-eye steak, served with delicious hand cut chunky chips, wild mushrooms, vine tomatoes and a stilton sauce (£14.95). Looking up to see the ‘Pig Plate’ of slow cooked fillet, belly pork, Bath chaps and black pudding (£13.95) whisk past, a dish devised earlier that day by enthusiastic and keen new head chef Adam Dwyer, my friend’s decision to return to Holcombe was instantly confirmed. To finish, we shared the chocolate fondant with mango sorbet and coulis (£5) which put a delightfully decadent end to the evening. Perhaps a Kenwood mixer lurks somewhere behind those kitchen doors, in which case expect to see the doors of this pub open for a long time yet. ■
> flavour xxxxxxx
Since taking it over, the family have created a warm, homely space, exposing in all its glory the quirks and features associated with a traditional English free house.
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> flavour the dinner queue
the dinner queue Are the now occasional lukewarm reviews of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at The Mandarin Oriental a reflection of too much anticipation? With the waiting list for a table now stretching into months, Nick Harman asks whether people are people simply getting too wound up to appreciate their long-awaited meal... When I was 25 my girlfriend and I got tickets to see Joni Mitchell. It would have been our first time and we waited the long months before the concert in lather of excitement. When the day finally came and La Belle Joni walked on stage I turned around to find the girlfriend flapping about on the floor like a landed tuna. She’d had a fainting fit, the excitement of the moment had been too much for her. Being a gentleman of the old school I knew exactly what to do. However after the third song it seemed clear that loudly and repeatedly asking, ‘You all right love?’ wasn’t going to bring about a speedy recovery so with heavy heart I dragged her off to the first aid station. Here we spent the rest of the concert listening to the booming echo of Joni’s voice relayed down a mile of corridors. Anticipation had effectively ruined our evening. By the same token, if you wait three months for a table at Dinner and then spend the best part of £150 per head, will you truly enjoy it? Will you faint? There is surely a sense of feeling obliged to like it an awful lot, anything else would mean admitting you’d been at best rather silly. Some brave souls I meet however are now saying ‘meeurgh...’ when asked what they thought of their meal at Heston's new place. They are acknowledging that while it was very good, it simply wasn’t the ‘amaaaaayzing’ evening that anticipation and bloggers had led them to expect it to be. They discovered that, after all, it’s just
Heston’s Meat Fruit – chicken liver parfait encased by a mandarin orange facade – has been the talk of the town
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a very good restaurant not a life changing experience. It is a symptom of our extreme foodie foolishness that some people chase after novelty, almost literally camping out on the pavement in order to be the first to try a new restaurant. They create a ridiculous hysteria that restaurants could well do without. It may fill tables in the short term but long term it’s bad for business. Heston probably doesn’t worry too much about that, after all he has a TV career and it’s not actually his restaurant anyway, but it would be nice if people could just back off a bit and let Dinner quietly do its job. Then maybe everyone will get a table in a reasonable time frame and it will actually be worth the wait to eat there. ■
Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia. co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.
It’s a symptom of our extreme foodie foolishness that some people chase after novelty...they create a ridiculous hysteria that restaurants could well do without
“I couldn’t wait for the bread to come out of the oven, we ate it while it was still hot – fantastic!” Georgina, London
Easter Sunday @ Cavendish
On 24 April one of Bath’s best loved restaurants is just a hop, skip and a jump away, offering two courses for £24.50 or three courses for £35.00
A taste of the menu... Pressed chicken and duck parfait, toasted brioche, apricot and sultana chutney Pea and ham veloute, Welsh rarebit, garlic croute, crispy Serrano ham Rack of South Down lamb, basil mousse, garlic and thyme fondant potato, spring vegetable medley, lamb nage Oven roasted pollock, saffron potatoes, sea kale, samphire, clam chowder Simnel cake bread & butter pudding, butterscotch, rum & raisin ice cream Hot Valrohna chocolate & pecan brownie, spiced poached pear, passion fruit All set menus include coffee & petit fours
Cream teas £5.50 per person, available 2pm-5pm Monday-Sunday
Sunday Roasts £10.50, available 12pm-3pm and 6pm-9pm every Sunday