for people who love local food
South West | Issue 50 | June 2012
flavour’s summer Making the most of the balmy season
WIN! An overnight stay at South Sands Hotel
Walk, Shop and Eat Explore the Cathedral City of Wells and surrounding area
A Feast of Olympic Proportions Megan Owen’s podium dishes
INSIDE
Your regular Greenliving edition
www.flavourmagazine.com
Editor Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com
40
Art Director Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Jemima Greenacre, Account Manager Email: jemima@flavourmagazine.com Photography Jeni Meade
welcome
Canoe2 Photography David Joyner Contributors Siân Blunos, Martin Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Max Drake, James Underdown, Megan Owen, Jack Stein, Mitch Tonks, Rob Smith, Charlie Lyon. Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com
17
For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.
Welcome to flavour and hopefully the beginning of a sustained spell of sun (sorry), al fresco dining and beer garden pints of cider. We have put together flavour’s summer, page 21, to get you in the mood for just these scenarios and, with the Olympic Games just around the corner, Megan Owen has looked at the various cuisines that would be on her medal list, page 44.
Inside... 04 WIN! An overnight stay for two at South Sands Hotel 10 In Season Tom Bowles brings us the best of the season’s produce 21 flavour’s summer Our guide to making the most of the upcoming months 36 Out of the Oceans Jack Stein creates more marvels from the sea… 44 A Feast of Olympic Proportions Megan Owen brings us her podium dishes 49 Walk, Shop and Eat A spotlight on Wells and the surrounding area
Please recycle this product.
Don’t mention the weather, don’t mention the weather, don’t mention the weather... D’oh!
As always we have focused on one of the great areas in the region and have championed the beautiful cathedral city of Wells, page 49. Despite being such a tiny city (a population of just over 10,000), there are so many wonderful places to eat, drink, shop and stay – testament to our love of quality produce. Speaking of which, one of the South West’s leading suppliers of produce, A.David & Co, is celebrating its 50th anniversary, page 14. We often take for granted what’s before us on our plate, but when I visited this business recently I was seriously impressed with the process behind ‘farm to fork’. Happy birthday to them! Anyway, don’t look up at the sky unless you know you are going to see blue, and keep us informed of any foodie news going on in your area... Well done!
Nick NICK GREGORY
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
this month The Bath Priory takes Gold! Following a double gold win in the South West Regional Awards for Best Small Hotel and Taste of the West, the Bath Priory was shortlisted for the Visit England Awards for Excellence, and beat off the competition to take the coveted award. The win comes at a key moment for the hotel as they move forward to a new phase under the management of Caroline Browning. “To win this award now is so timely and is a huge tribute to the team, their commitment to excellence, creating an exceptional guest experience and excelling in the delivery of their own disciplines.� Read our review of The Bath Priory on page 38.
WIN! AN OVERNIGHT STAY FOR TWO AT SOUTH SANDS HOTEL This stylish new hotel sits on the beach at South Sands, a bay just outside the vibrant sailing town of Salcombe, Devon. It has a laid-back New England aesthetic (natural woods and cheery colours), a magnificent and tactile wrought metalwork and oak helical staircase, created by local craftsmen and feature bedrooms looking out over the beach.
Flavour has teamed-up with South Sands Hotel to offer one lucky reader an overnight stay for two with dinner and breakfast. To enter simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with South Sands in the subject header and your FULL contact details in the email body. Good luck! South Sands Hotel Bolt Head, Salcombe TQ8 8LL 01548 845900 www.southsands.com
COMPETITION WINNERS CONGRATULATIONS go to Liz Lee, from Bristol, who wins a two-night stay at The Beaminster Brasserie, and Ben Swift, from Brockley, who wins a fantastic Caple Wine Cooler.
WELL DONE!
WIN!
Artisan food in the heart of Bath Flavours of the West at Milsom Place in Bath promises a weekend of foodie treats with chef demonstrations, tastings and tutorials and a celebration of some of the best artisan food in the West Country. The two-day food and drink festival on Saturday June 30 and Sunday July 1 is a great foodie event for Bath residents and visitors alike. Top Bath chefs will stage a programme of free cookery demonstrations in The Octagon, formerly a Georgian chapel. Michelin-starred Executive Chef from five-star Lucknam Park Hotel Hywel Jones, who competed in the BBC’s Great British Menu last year, will offer expert tips as he guides you through delicious recipes. Head chef Henry Mugridge from Yo!Sushi at Milsom Place will unravel the mystique of making sushi. Other highlights include the Producers Market with the new Cake and Bake Zone starring Bath’s own WI, and a children’s foodie fun area and a talk on edible gardens by gardening superstar John Wheatley. For a full programme list visit the website.
www.milsomplace.co.uk
FLYING THE FLAG The Fox at Broughton Gifford has been awarded a Local, Seasonal and Organic Produce Award from Alastair Sawday’s Pubs & Inns of England & Wales.
WINE OF THE
MONTH
Tim McLaughlin-Green, sommelier and wine consultant of Sommelier’s Choice, was shortlisted for the Harpers & Queen Sommelier of the Year award. His philosophy is to search for and work with family-owned wineries, producing high-quality wines in small quantities, aiming for something really special. I am hoping this will be a month of celebration with the Olympics arriving in the UK and our athletes delivering gold. When you think about a celebration wine it is bubbles, Champagne, English sparkling wine if you want to be patriotic or Prosecco, the lifestyle wine everyone can afford. Prosecco is the wonderful Italian fizz that feels light and refreshing to drink.
The Fox, The Street Broughton Gifford Melksham SN12 8PN
Prosecco is the perfect every day fizz, produced from Glera grapes and made in different styles – frizzante or spumante; I prefer spumante as the bubbles last longer. I recommend Prosecco Rustico from Nino Franco. Nino Franco is one of the founding families in Prosecco. Established in 1919, it’s now in its fourth generation. Prosecco Rustico has a taste of Granny Smith apples and peach flavours – refreshing and leaving you wanting more.
01225 782949 www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk
Rustico is served by the best restaurateurs, however you can buy it from a few wine shops.
This is testament to The Fox’s continued deliverance of great food, made with great produce (plenty of it from their own garden) at reasonable prices! Well done The Fox…
Available from Oeno; The Wine Library; Sussex Wine Company & Sommelier’s Choice. Price £14-£16.
All wines available from:
www.sommelierschoice.com
> flavour news
AN OUTSTANDING DAY OUT… Four award-winning chefs, an outstanding three-course lunch and the six-goal Solitaire Salver Cup come together to make a charity polo day an unforgettable Cotswolds day out on September 12. The day begins with a Champagne reception on the lawns of Beaufort Polo Club before a three-course lunch, which is to include half a bottle of wine per person. Grandstand seats will be reserved for you and your guests to watch the Solitaire Salver Cup polo
match. The day ends with an afternoon cream tea served in the marquee. Hywel Jones from Lucknam Park will be one of the ‘chefs on show’. Combine this day with a night’s stay at Lucknam Park to complete the experience. Contact Reservations on 01225 742 777 quoting ‘Polo 12 Sept’ for a special rate. To book your tickets for the day, please contact Giuliana Vittiglio on 0203 004 5504 or email gvittiglio@hospitalityaction.org.uk
UPDOWN’S OLYMPICS Awarded 5 stars with Gold Award by Enjoy England, Updown Cottage has been in high demand from the families of Olympic sailors, with enquiries coming from as far afield as New Zealand. The appeal of being within an hour of Weymouth and the Jurassic Coast but able to withdraw to the peaceful haven of Updown and away from the crowds, has proved a strong attraction. On Thursday, July 12, the Olympic flame will be visiting Gold Hill giving a unique opportunity for photos of the torch set against the spectacular backdrop of ‘Hovis’ Hill and Blackmore Vale. www.updowncottage.co.uk
JAZZ HANDS!
Goodfellows Patisserie
Following successful launches of their fresh and filled pasta with The Fine Food Company and retail pasta and sauces with Plough to Plate, Jazz Hands Pasta are relocating to new, larger premises in order to meet the growing demand for their authentic, hand-crafted range of artisan pasta and sauces. That is good news!
Goodfellows Patisserie, a quirky building just a stone’s throw from the cathedral in Wells, provides the most exquisite handmade macaroons, available in strawberry, lemon or chocolate and pistachio flavours. We guarantee you’ll want to take home a boxful – check out their chocolates too.
07432 351001 www.artisanpasta.co.uk
www.goodfellowswells.co.uk
RAJPOOT UP FOR AWARD Rajpoot are delighted to be representing the South West as finalists in the Tiffin Club 2012 Grand Final. At a staff and management meeting it was decided that head chef Abu Talukdar will cook the diners’ favourite dish the ‘Achari Golda Chingri’ (fresh water giant king prawns imported from Bangladesh). 01225 466833 www.rajpoot.com 6
> flavour news
GRILLSTOCK THE MEATIEST FESTIVAL IN THE ‘WILD SOUTH WEST’
30 JUNE – 1 JULY
The Swan in Wedmore tops South West field The Swan at Wedmore has been named as the South West regional winner in the prestigious The Good Food Guide Readers’ Restaurant of the Year Awards. A record 44,500 food-loving members of the public put forward their favourite restaurants, pubs and cafés from around the UK for the annual awards. Music, meat and mayhem come together once again at Harbourside, Bristol this summer at the third annual Grillstock Festival. Grillstock sizzles up the very best in barbecue cooking and American music, from bands including Alabama 3 and Charles Bradley and the Extraordinaires. And the daddy of barbecue cooking in the US – Ray ‘Dr BBQ’ Lampe – will be leading the fray in the judging stakes at the BBQ cook-offs. Taste, texture and appearance are the main judging criteria. Beads of sweat will roll. 24 teams from around the world will be competing to become the ‘King of the Grill’ Grand Champion. Everyone from top chefs to backyard grillers fight it out over the smouldering coals. Last year over 15,000 food and music lovers attended Grillstock, wooed by the fabulous array of BBQ cooking techniques and food, from briskets and pulled porks to real American slow baked beans. Other highlights of the festival include: Legendary Chilli Eating Competition Main stage with nine fantastic acts Huge US-style BBQ competition Pallet stage with slide guitars, banjo players, beatbox and street theatre Learn tips and tricks at the BBQ Academy
Grillstock.co.uk
The Good Food Guide is the UK’s longestrunning, best-selling restaurant guide. Now in its 62nd year, it includes reviews of the very best dining establishments in the UK, from great value pubs to fine dining
www.thegoodfoodguide.co.uk
Fit King FOR A
The aptly named Whispering Angel is a pale salmon pink, elegant rosé produced by Chateau d’Escalans in Provence. The ripe grapes of Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre are harvested from sunrise to noon to prevent oxidisation and the juices are fermented in stainless steel vats to keep the freshness and vivid berry flavours. The result is heavenly; aromatic, dry and strawberry scented with a clean finish. Great to drink on its own or with lightly grilled meats, fishes and salad.
This favourite summertime tipple of the King John Inn, Tollard Royal, is available to purchase online – £15.95 per bottle.
www.museumwines.co.uk 7
C788 FINAL-OL.indd 1
07/06/2012 10:27
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
fab foodie reads
PICK OF THE MONTH!
MADE AT HOME
CURING & SMOKING EGGS & POULTRY PRESERVES/VEGETABLES MITCHELL BEAZLEY, £12.99 (each) In this four-part series, Dick and James Strawbridge, known for their popular BBC television programme It’s Not Easy Being Green, show you how to grow, harvest, preserve, cook and make the most of seasonal produce. Each book is packed with expert advice and tips on choosing the best ingredients; methods of creating delicious handcrafted foods; and recipes for truly mouthwatering and memorable meals, because ultimately it’s all about the eating! This is a very timely series
as many people are returning back to the traditional ways of living and self-sufficiency. Whether you are a city-dweller or country lover, it’s easy to have a go at the good life. Dick and James Strawbridge are experts on the good life – and it’s the life they lead at Newhouse Farm, their smallholding in Cornwall, in the southwest of England. On just three acres of land in the midst of a village
they produce an abundance of good things to eat and drink: fruits and vegetables that they eat fresh, juice, ferment and preserve, pigs for ham, sausages, salamis and bacon, a mixed flock of birds for eggs and eating, and bees for honey – to name a few. It’s a lifestyle driven by their desire to eat well every day.
THE 10 SECRETS OF 100% HEALTH COOKBOOK
COOKING FOR REAL LIFE
SIMPLE AND DELICIOUS RECIPES FOR OPTIMUM HEALTH
JOANNA WEINBERG, BLOOMSBURY, £25
PATRICK HOLFORD & FIONA MCDONALD JOYCE, PIATKUS, £15.99
Cooking for Real Life is about real cooking for real people – people who want to produce something delicious and varied every day for their households. Joanna Weinberg shows us all how to fit food in with our lives, rather than it being an aspiration; no more boring weekly shops for the same old products from the same old supermarket; turn the Internet into your perfect street of food shops; make your freezer cooler than your farmer’s market; turn your store cupboard basics into inspiring dishes.
Delicious recipes – and simple, effective advice that will make transforming your health easy and truly enjoyable. Patrick Holford’s groundbreaking book The 10 Secrets of 100% Healthy People revealed the diet and lifestyle secrets of the superhealthy. The 10 Secrets of Healthy Ageing outlined the key diet changes to add years to your life. Now, Patrick and nutritionist and cookery writer Fiona McDonald Joyce show you how to put these lifetransforming principles into practice with delicious recipes that are easy to make and nutritious. Each recipe has an ‘at-a-glance’ guide to its GL and essential nutrient content to help you create delicious,
balanced menus. A sample weekly menu plan and the 10 food rules for 100 per cent health give further guidance, enabling you to optimise your diet with confidence. Featuring everything from simple breakfasts and delicious soups, scrummy salads and vegetarian meals, to imaginative fish and meat dishes, and even some healthy sweet treats, you’ll find plenty of exciting dishes to choose from.
Cooking for Real Life is a beautifully designed,
easy-to-use book packed with gorgeous colour photographs. It is adaptable and personal and shows that, with a pinch of this and a dash of that, we can all eat well all of the time – regardless of what life throws at us.
> flavour in season
At their best
right Strawberries Strawberries evoke emotions of all things summer when they start to appear in the fields and on the shelves. The strawberry season used to be a lot shorter but as polytunnels have helped a more modern production, British strawberries can now be enjoyed from mid-April though to the end of the year, although as a general rule the more sun we have, the sweeter the strawberry. Most shop-bought strawberries (around 80 per cent) are the Elsanta variety, but if you seek out your local ‘pick-your-own’ or farmers’ market there may be some interesting varieties to try out. There is, of course, no substitute for our own strawberries. Our climate is perfect for producing soft fruits and often imported strawberries have been picked before their prime to survive the commute to our shops. Always look for unblemished fruits with bright green hulls. It’s best to enjoy them as soon as possible as they can turn quite quickly. Don’t freeze whole berries as this ruins their texture and flavour.
Broad beans Broad beans are another example of fine British produce with only a short seasonal window. From the end of May through to the middle of July broad beans are available fresh and in their pods. They are deliciously sweet with a smooth, creamy texture. Tinned or dried beans don’t quite live up to this and can often turn out floury and bland, so be sure to make the most out of these guys while you can. When young they can be eaten whole in their pods. Try sprinkling with dried chilli and salt and serve as a side dish. As the beans get older later in the season they need to be shelled from their tough cases before being cooked.
10
> flavour in season
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
now
Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: @hartleyFarm
Peas Thankfully due to hard-working farmers and modern technology, great quality garden peas are enjoyed all year round as a frozen product. Once harvested the sugar content in peas starts to diminish immediately so the farmers and factories only have a short window of about 24 hours to cut, transport and freeze these little beauties. Not only do we get peas from pea plants but you can also enjoy pea shoots – delicious and delicate. When buying fresh or picking yourself, search for bright green coloured pods that are firm and plump. Young, undeveloped pods can also be eaten as mange tout. There’s no end of summery recipes that peas shine in, hot or cold.
Courgettes Courgettes have had some terrible treatment in the past. For such a delicate summer vegetable it’s had to put up with some pretty tough handling in watery ratatouilles or roasted to within an inch of its life. The courgette is a summer variety squash and needs only a little TLC to get the most out of it. Their soft and delicate textures work well shaved and tossed into pasta or topping on a salad. They come in all shapes, sizes and colours although most of us are used to the dark green varieties. Look for firm, unblemished skins that are weighty. They can store well in the fridge for a couple of weeks but their flavour does deteriorate the longer you leave them.
11
This stylish new hotel sits on the beach at South Sands, a bay just outside the vibrant sailing town of Salcombe, Devon. It has a laid-back New England aesthetic (natural woods and cheery colours), a magnificent and tactile wrought metalwork and oak helical staircase, created by local craftsmen and feature bedrooms looking out over the beach. The hotel has a stylish but relaxed atmosphere, with the expansive glass-fronted restaurant spilling out over the beach, serving stunning seafood dishes under the guidance of celebrity chef Mitch Tonks. The rolling sounds of the beach and the sea air fill the hotel and dictate the mood at this stunning location.
CALL 01548 845900 VISIT www.southsands.com South Sands Boutique Hotel and Beachside Restaurant, Bolt Head, Salcombe, Devon TQ8 8LL
JON THORNER’S
the
BUTCHER’S
tip
Going the whole hog! This phrase couldn’t be truer, because pigs are one of the most economical farm animals, in that you can use nearly every part of it in cooking.
T
he majority of our pigs are sourced from Yew Tree Farm in East Pennard, which produce consistently topquality Farm Assured pork and is only three miles from our farm shop. We specifically buy larger pigs to cure our own hams and produce our own bacon with. We also source pigs from Andrew Hawkings in Taunton, and free-range pigs from Steve Tucker and Mike Colwill, to supply our Beckington and Frampton Cotterell butchery counters, which are based on their farms. The prime cuts of a pig are put into four categories: Shoulder/Loin/Leg/Belly A whole host of different cuts are achieved from these areas, from roasting joints, steaks, fillets and chops. Belly pork is very much in vogue at present, and you’ll find it on many a restaurant menu – something that wasn’t the case 10 years ago. Two of the most popular roasting joints we sell are the leg and loin joint. My favourite is the loin, because it is tender, easy to carve and cooks more quickly in comparison to other roasting joints. We also offer it without crackling, if you are looking for a leaner choice. But what about some of the more obscure cuts like pig’s head, cheeks and trotters?
Pickled trotters are a historical delicacy; the UK also exports them to China where there is a big demand. The pig’s intestine is used for sausage casings, but they are also used to make chitterlings, a traditional dish where the stomach and intestines are cured and then cooked; surprisingly popular with our customers! Offal – lungs, heart and liver – is used in making faggots, the tongue can be served as a cured meat and even the ears can be baked as a tasty treat for your dog. The pig’s tail isn’t left out either, as there is a demand for this in Caribbean and West Indian cooking. Understandably some people find these cuts off-putting, but you really can create some delicious and nutritious meals with them, as well as being inexpensive. Speak to your butcher for advice and give something new a try.
Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies... Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s
LOIN SHOULDER
LEG BELLY
The head is used for brawn and sometimes sausages, but it’s also used to make the regional speciality Bath Chaps, where the cheek or jaw meat is cured before being cooked.
13
A DAVID&CO MIGHTY OAKS FROM LITTLE ACORNS GROW…
C
elebrating 50 years of food catering excellence in and around Bristol and the South West, A.David & Co provides customers with an unforgettable buying experience with a diversity of produce to suit any catering requirements. Founded by Arthur David and now a fully fledged, family-run enterprise, A.David & Co has adapted to chefs’ ever-changing needs and the evolutionary gastro trends that embody the food scene in the UK. No stone is left unturned. When Arthur began this company, operating from a basement in innercity Bristol and distributing just a small selection of local fruit and veg, he could not have envisaged the powerhouse of a company it would later become at Hillside Farm in Bishop Sutton. More and more family members have joined the team but ‘service’, Arthur’s watchword, has always been at the
heart of the operation. Even in days when produce was in short supply, Arthur made sure all customers’ needs were met by turning his land into prime crops. For many years the company supplied customers with produce grown by their own fair hands and it was this sort of innovative approach that earned A.David & Co the reputation it has today. Despite a distinguished heritage and history as well as this deserved reputation for reliability and excellence, A.David & Co has not rested on its laurels and continues to be at the cutting edge of the food industry, currently exploring molecular gastronomy for a multisensory eating experience – a far cry from Arthur’s early days – and also with plans to develop a smokehouse range to compliment the existing fine foods range. If it’s on a menu, then A.David & Co will have it covered.
Supplying established fine dining establishments like The Pony and Trap and Casamia, through to schools, councils, hotels and events, A.David & Co works in partnership with local producers to ensure the provenance and seasonality of its food, and once harvested and delivered to the temperature controlled warehouse the team work hard to ensure it is stored and handled sympathetically. The experienced quality control team make sure that the growers’ passion is replicated in the operation to ensure only the freshest produce reaches the kitchen. This enhanced freshness is evident in the beautiful flavour, colour and texture of the produce. Happy 50th birthday to Arthur, his family and his team for delivering a ‘service’ that is highly regarded, progressive and one that all associated with it should be very proud.
A.David & Co, Hillside Farm, Bishop Sutton, Bristol BS39 5XR Call: 08444 120555 Visit: www.adavid.co.uk 14
> flavour a.david
With a food offering comparable to anything around the area, the ability to order up to 11pm and delivering six-days-a-week with no minimum order, A.David & Co has forged ahead in the marketplace with their expertise and contacts making them the perfect supplier and credible in everything they do.
15
The Old Court near Bath SPECIALISING IN GROUP GATHERINGS FROM BUSINESS TO PLEASURE The Old Court, a family-run Grade-II listed Gothic Victorian courthouse, has been tastefully converted into a unique guesthouse that is ideally located for Bath, Bristol and the South West, offering exclusivity and the relaxed environment of a family home with many of the amenities of a boutique hotel. This imposing building has been tastefully converted into a unique guesthouse with modern style and facilities complementing the historic setting and is ideally located for exploring the region. The nine guest rooms offer all the modern conveniences yet retain original features
throughout and range from the unique and quirky jail cells to the magnificent Judge’s Master Suite, complete with sitting room, jacuzzi bath and walk-in shower. There are rooms to suit all budgets.
rooms which can accommodate small conferences, also providing easy access to the Internet through the complimentary Wi-Fi connection.
Take a break from your business meeting or social gathering for some fresh air and sunshine in the secluded walled gardens and lounge next to the pond and waterfall.
The Old Court is conveniently located near Bath and Bristol, but comfortably enough away to give you a real feel of the countryside. Old meets new and gels perfectly in this delightful retreat.
Whether you are a couple, on your own or a group of 20, The Old Court has a can-do attitude so whatever you need they will be happy to discuss your requirements. This is a perfect venue for weddings and group events, with two fantastic function
Call: 01761 451101 Email: oldcourt@gifford.co.uk Visit: www.theoldcourt.com
SWEET
> flavour levi roots
IRRESISTIBLE DESSERTS AND DRINKS, CAKES AND BAKES BY LEVI ROOTS MITCHELL BEAZLEY, £18.99
To me ‘sweet’ is about celebrating and sharing – and that is a beautiful thing! The fact that this book is called SWEET has more to do with attitude than sugar levels. Choosing to get together with family and friends and enjoy a particular moment by sharing a mouthwatering treat is part of the sweetness of life.
In SWEET, Levi Roots’ latest batch of recipes is all about temptation and packed with ideas for irresistible cakes, bakes, biscuits, puddings, cocktails and coolers, food that is designed to be shared and guaranteed to taste great. From creamy puds to steamy puds and even ones you can barbecue, Levi adds a colourful Caribbean twist to over 100 of his favourite sweet treat dishes. Featuring recipes such as lime and ginger pie, cardamom and allspice brownies,
LEVI ROOTS
FIGS WITH THYME: INFUSED HONEY AND GREEK YOGHURT
I love beautiful purple figs with their luscious insides and this is an easy and different way to end a barbecue.
SERVES 8
INGREDIENTS
• 6 tbsp clear honey • 2 tsp thyme leaves • 16 figs • 8 tbsp Greek yogurt
strawberry and banana coconut crumble and a Jamaican tiramisu, this book is the ultimate bible for anyone with a sweet tooth. Like his previous best-selling cookery titles, SWEET is written in Levi’s easy, laid-back style and beautifully illustrated with colour photography by award-winning photographer Chris Terry. Fun, colourful, easy to read and most importantly with recipes that are easy to cook, this is everything a cookbook should be…
> flavour levi roots
BANANA CHOCOLATE RUM SUNDAE
Banana splits are all very well but I like my fruit layered up with the sauce. It’s a great sauce – use it for drizzling over other ice creams, warm crepes and chocolate cake.
INGREDIENTS
• 40g (1½ oz) caster sugar
• 3–4 ripe bananas • Juice of 1 lemon
• 25g (1oz) unsalted butter
• 500ml (18fl oz) tub vanilla or almond ice cream • 175ml (6fl oz) whipping cream • Icing sugar, to taste • 2 tbsp dark rum, plus extra for the sauce
FOR THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE • 200g (7oz) dark chocolate • 100ml (3½fl oz) milk • 50ml (2fl oz) double cream
18
TO SERVE • Chopped pecans • Wafer biscuits
METHOD 1. Thickly slice the bananas, place in a bowl and immediately pour over the lemon juice to prevent them from discolouring. 2. To make the chocolate sauce, melt the chocolate in a bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Meanwhile heat the milk,
cream and sugar in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar has dissolved. 3. Add the milk mixture to the warm chocolate, a little at a time, whisking between each addition (at first it will look as if the chocolate and milk mixture won’t combine, but keep beating and it all comes together). Add the butter and allow it to melt into the sauce. Leave the sauce to cool to lukewarm then stir in rum to taste. Whip the cream to soft
peaks and add icing sugar to taste. Stir in the 2 tbsp rum. 4. To assemble, layer scoops of ice cream with the bananas and chocolate sauce in tall glasses and add a dollop of cream to each. Sprinkle over the chopped pecans and serve immediately with wafer biscuits.
> flavour levi roots
TEXAN DOLLIES MAKES 25
So-called, presumably, because they are rich and overthe-top! For the seriously sweet-toothed, like me! INGREDIENTS
METHOD
• 300g (10½oz) digestive biscuits
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/ fan 160°C/gas mark 4. Whizz the biscuits into crumbs in a food processor. Transfer to a bowl. Melt the butter and mix with the biscuit crumbs. Press the buttered crumbs into the bottom of a 20cm (8in) square, 5cm (2in) deep baking tin. Sprinkle over the walnuts, chocolate chips, sultanas and coconut. Pour over the condensed milk, spreading it evenly using palette knife, to cover.
• 200g (7oz) unsalted butter • 140g (5oz) walnuts, chopped • 85g (3oz) milk or plain chocolate chips • 85g (3oz) sultanas • 200g (7oz) desiccated coconut • 600ml (1 pint) condensed milk • Icing sugar, for dusting (optional)
2. Bake in the oven for 30–35 minutes or until pale golden around the edges. Take care not to overcook the dollies. Leave to cool in the tin overnight. 3. Cut into squares (you’ll need to use a very sharp knife for this) and ease out of the tin. Dust with icing sugar, if liked.
19
> flavour devilled egg
entertaining this summer and keen to impress ? why not treat yourself to a session at The Devilled Egg kitchen academy...
T
he Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy invites you to celebrate the summer with a fantastic range of gastronomic tutorials, demonstrations and tastings in a sumptuous setting in leafy Clifton. Whether you want to create a fine dining experience at home, find out how to cook something for the first time, or pick up the tricks of the trade from a professional chef. The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy has a range of practical cookery courses where there is a big emphasis on enjoyment and fun. Founder of the Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy, charismatic chef and foodie
demystify cookery, especially fine dining. It is actually easy once you know what you are doing and that is where I can help!” There is a wide range of classes running in July and August, from a fabulous dinner party class to creating amazing cup cakes to bread making – there really is something for everyone! The ‘Gourmet Picnic’ class takes place on the first Saturday in July (7th). From mini scotch eggs to Panzanella (Italian bread salad) to blueberry brownies to mini savoury tarts, there is everything you need for a seriously posh picnic. You can then enjoy your creations in Barbora’s garden. The course costs £95 per person. On Saturday, July 28, guest chef Sheba Promod is running an ‘Authentic Indian Cooking and Spice Tasting Class’. This course will allow you to get to grips with the incredible flavours of India. Once created you will enjoy an Indian feast with a glass of wine, all for just £85 per person.
Barbora Stiess, is intent on spreading the gospel of locally sourced gastronomy and is passionate that cookery should always be enjoyable and fun. “I want to 20
A new class for The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy is a ‘Sushi Masterclass’ taking place on Tuesday, August 7 at 6.30pm with Manu Letellier from ‘Your Sushi’. This class is very hands-on and you will learn how to make seven or eight different types of sushi and runs for three-and-a half hours. Become a Sushi guru for just £99 per person.
‘No Women or Salads Allowed’ is a class specially designed for men who want to learn how to cook some classic meals. Once you have mastered a homemade burger, a curry and a toad in the hole, you will be the envy of your friends, at £85 per man. Classes at The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy range from £45 to £250. For a full list of classes or for more information visit the website or contact Barbora on 0117 973 2823. The Devilled Egg Latchford House 8 Downfield Road Clifton Bristol BS8 2TH 0117 9732 823 www.thedevilledegg.com
flavour’s
r e m m Su
STOVES, RANGES, WOOD-FIRED OVENS & SOLID FUEL SUPPLIES
A wood-fired oven is the hottest cooking trend to cross the continent and reach the shores of the UK. Wood-fired ovens have many excellent advantages over conventional gas and electric ovens, which is why they are so commonly used as a selling point for good restaurants.
ORDER ONLINE TODAY
The main advantages include: • Flavour – Cooking with wood in a wood-fired oven, and in particular, using apple or oak wood adds unique and delicious flavours to all foods that cannot be compared to food cooking in a conventional oven. • Speed – Once fired up, the ovens cook food considerably faster than other ovens (two minutes to cook a pizza instead of 12), which is why they are excellent for entertaining. • Easy - They are extremely low maintenance, requiring just an occasional sweep on the inside floor.
• Pleasure – Wood-fired cooking is really fun, you can watch your food cook, while socialising or, if you run a pub or restaurant, they become amazing focal points. The pleasures of owning a wood-fired oven used to be restricted to the rich and famous, but not anymore. Embers Bristol and Bluestone wood-fired ovens have combined cutting edge design, high-quality materials and affordability to produce a hard-wearing, compact wood-fired oven that, with prices starting from £999, don’t break the bank. Embers supply kiln-dried wood and other fuels to get these ovens fiing beautifully.
For more information visit
www.embersbristol.com Or call us on
0117 925 1115 Embers Bristol 17-119 St Georges Rd College Green Bristol BS1 5UW
flavour’s
r e m m Su
Whenever the opportunity arises, why not make the most of the warmer months, kickback and let the food and drink do the talking. Flavour has put together a host of places that will make the next few months a time of satisfaction, relaxation and indulgence...
Sample menu A WOOD-FIRED SUMM
Gather round the outdoor
ER
centerpiece
THE PERFECT SUMM
ER NIBBLES
Delis and cafés to cleanse th
e palate
THE SUMMER SORBET
A cool offering from The Ol
ive Tree Restaurant
LAZY SUMMER DRINKS
Fill up the ice buckets and
satisfy your thirst
DINING IN SUMMER SU Outdoors eating of the fin
NSHINE
est degree
A DOZEN SUMMER DI
Why don’t you put your fee
STRACTIONS
t up and escape from it all
...
THE PERFECT SUMMER NIBBLES
Delis and cafés to cleanse the palate
INDULGENCE CAFÉ AND PATISSERIE
The Indulgence Café and Patisserie is a place where you can sit back and relax in a cosy atmosphere, catch up with friends or take time out with a paper and one of their fabulous coffees.
Just a stone’s throw from Bath city centre, Indulgence Café provides delicious homemade produce to enjoy in the friendly shop or, if preferred, to take away.
Indulgence Café and Patisserie 31 Bathwick Street, Bath BA2 6NZ Call: 01225 316265 Visit: www.indulgence-cafe.co.uk
Maison Chaplais Go to Maison Chaplais for your bespoke picnic. Choose a selection of delicious treats from a range of their handmade foods, ranging from coleslaw and hummous, Coronation chicken and roast chicken salad. That, combined with a selection of hams, salamis and a variety of 60 artisan cheeses can be made into sandwiches on their homemade bread, or packed into individual pots and placed into a wicker basket for you to take away. Maison Chaplais 52 Andover Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2TL Call: 01242 570222 Email: shop@maisonchaplais.co.uk
24
Maple’s Cafe & Delicatessen Snuggled in the centre of The Shambles you’ll find a little gem that is Maple’s Cafe & Deli’. The shelves are lined with those ‘hard-to-find’ ingredients and locally produced goodies. The deli counter also boasts both local and world award-winning meats and cheeses and an array of fantastic salads, all made daily in the kitchens from locally sourced, Fairtrade and happy ingredients. And if you’re looking for picnic fare, look no further! If you’re not tempted by the array of delicious sandwiches, baguettes or paninis that are prepared daily then make up your own combination of salads, pâtés, meat and vegetarian treats from the deli counter. The friendly staff will be only too pleased to make you up a salad bowl to take away! Maple’s Cafe & Delicatessen 4 The Shambles, Bradford on Avon, Wiltshire BA15 1JS Call: 01225 862203 Visit: www.maplesdeli.com Open 8.30am-5pm Monday-Saturday
MANGIA BENE Mangia Bene is a cafe/deli now in its 17th year and stocks a wide range of foods from the UK and Europe including olives, artichokes, sun blush tomatoes and caper berries. Cheeses come from the UK, France, Spain and Italy, who also provide the prosciutto, salamis and cooked hams. The cafe serves breakfast and lunches and also has a drinks license. Don’t forget to try the excellent coffee from Union.
Mangia Bene 5-6 St James’s Street Bath BA1 2TW Call: 01225 336 106
> flavour’s summer
The Olive Tree Restaurant
Blood peach sorbet
The Olive Tree Restaurant, set in one of the most beautiful hotels in Bath, The Queensberry Hotel, combines oldfashioned attitudes to service and detail with sophisticated, modern comfort and great food.
50g glucose syrup
Bath is surrounded by soft green hills and beautiful, rolling countryside, the hills home to muscular, well-fed animals and the countryside teeming with an abundance of fruit and vegetables. And The Olive Tree’s expert chef uses these riches to create a frequently-changing menu of beautiful, fresh, seasonal dishes. Their team have come up with the perfect summer sorbet to keep us all in this sunshine mood. Visit the website for the latest monthly special offers. The Olive Tree Russel Street Bath BA1 2QF Call: 01225 447928 Visit: www.olivetreebath.co.uk
INGREDIENTS 250ml water 250g caster sugar
500g ripe peaches 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon peach liqueur METHOD Place the sugar, water and glucose in a small saucepan, over low heat, and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved. Boil the syrup for one minute then remove from the heat. Pour the sugar syrup into a heatproof container, place in the refrigerator and chill. Core and skin the peaches and then place in a food processor and process until the peaches are puréed. Pass through a fine sieve to remove any rough pieces. Transfer to a large bowl, add the lemon juice and liqueur and refrigerate until the mixture is thoroughly chilled.
Once the simple syrup and puréed peaches are completely chilled, combine with the puréed peaches. Transfer the mixture to the chilled container of your ice cream machine and process. Once made, transfer the sorbet to a chilled container and store in the freezer. If you do not have an ice cream machine, then pour the mixture into a stainless steel pan or bowl, cover with plastic wrap and place in the freezer. When the sorbet is completely frozen (3 to 4 hours), remove from the freezer and stand at room temperature until partially thawed. Transfer to the food processor and process to break up the large ice crystals that have formed on the sorbet. (This step is what gives the sorbet its wonderful smooth texture.) Place the sorbet back into the pan and refreeze for at least three hours. ENJOY!
25
LAZY SUMMER DRINKS
Fill up the ice buckets and satisfy your thirst
Quoins Organic Vineyard
Raisin Wine Raisin is an independent wine shop in Bath focusing on small, unique producers and growers from around the world. They have selected a couple of great summer wines for us to check out over the next few months.
CHILCAS, SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC, VALLE DE MAULE, 2010 £11.89 A ‘Tigger’ wine that tastes grreat! The fruit flavours bounce around your mouth triggering a riotous explosion of violet-scented cassis, stewed summer fruits, mocha and black olive notes. Match with barbecue meats, red meat dishes and chocolate (85% cocoa content).
Quoins Organic Vineyard, near Bradford on Avon, is open to the public for tours and tastings on Sundays throughout the summer (£5pp on 8th July, 5th Aug, 2nd and 23rd Sept). Sample the award-winning whites and newly released rosé and rondo red wines with a chance to buy at farm-gate prices. Specialised tours and tastings to groups of 10 or more can be arranged throughout the summer. Gourmet picnics can be arranged from a neighbouring farm shop and cafe on request. Call: 07835 265082 Email: alan@quoinsvineyard.co.uk Visit: www.quoinsvineyard.co.uk
ALAMOS TORRONTÉS, SALTA, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA, 2011. £8.59 A tropical fruit bomb detonating citrus fruit; fresh floral perfume showers the palate with pink grapefruit, jasmine, and peach fruit. A refreshingly fruity, off-dry and zesty wine that marries well with Thai and light chicken dishes.
Severnshed Bar and Restaurant Say hello to Severnshed Bar and Restaurant this summer and treat yourself to a pitcher to share or a cheeky cocktail or two on the sunny terrace. Located on the waterside, it is the perfect place to chill out with friends and watch the world float by. Take advantage of their 2-4-1 cocktails and selected happy hour drinks along with the extensive wine and spirit selection on offer. Their bartenders come up with fresh and exciting creations every day so come down and let them make your summer one to remember… 26
Severnshed Bar and Restaurant The Grove Harbourside Bristol BS1 4RB Call: 0117 925 1212 Visit: www.severnshedrestaurant.co.uk
GIN HONEY SOUR
SUMMER FAVOURITES
> flavour’s summer: clare morris
Summer is here and the weather’s hot. I’m getting a bit suspicious of the royal family’s powers to be honest; it seems like every time they have a big celebration and we get an extra bank holiday, the weather is much better than our usual bank holidays. Remember the royal wedding last year? If only we could control it for our own special occasions!
So, it seems appropriate to have some wines to enjoy on these long, lazy evenings and summer wouldn’t be summer without a delicious rosé wine.
as the village pub – no delusions of grandeur here but a really worthwhile destination.
I’m a big fan of dry, crisp rosés and have found a beautiful number at the Masons Arms in Knowstone, just outside Tiverton in Devon. It has the wonderful combination of a Michelin star but also still serving more than adequately
Skalli Les Rabassieres Cote du Rhone Rosé also has a wonderful combination – ripe, red fruit balanced with a dry and refreshing palate. Dry rosés make an excellent food match and this is no exception. Here I’d go for the wild mushroom and artichoke risotto followed by roulade of pork belly to perfectly partner the rich flavours.
www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk
Another summer favourite is a crisp, light tasting white. Pinot Grigio aside, there’s lots of excellent wines in this category. A grape seeing a real renaissance at the moment is Picpoul de Pinet from the south of France and its appearance in fashionable bars and restaurants in the like of London and New York have really helped to put it on the map again. Despite the heat of the climate in the south of France, this wine is very fresh and has masses of citrus flavours.
You may be pleased to know that it also represents excellent value for money. Head down to Redwings Bar and Dining in Lympstone, another great venue in Devon with a focus on local food, and you’ll find a lovely example of this wine – Picpoul de Pinet Domaine St Anne. Unsurprisingly Picpoul is great with seafood, so I’d try the mussels or oriental fish cakes. It’s pretty good with fish and chips too!
www.redwingbar-dining.co.uk
Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School. 27
DINING IN SUMMER SUNSHINE
Outdoors eating of the finest degree
The Fox
AT BROUGHTON GIFFORD
There is nowhere better to enjoy some fabulous food outside than at The Fox at Broughton Gifford. Widely regarded as one of the county’s premier dining pubs, included in The Good Pub Guide, The Michelin Guide and Alistair Sawday’s Pubs and Inns, The Fox sources locally and also grows an extensive amount of their own produce, including rearing British Lop pigs, chickens and ducks –
younger members of the family will love it. You are even able to wander around the smallholding which is situated behind their beer garden. The Fox really goes that extra mile in searching for quality ingredients, and the quality of their daily changing menus reflect the commitment the young team have to keeping to their high standards.
The Fox at Broughton Gifford The Street, Broughton Gifford, Melksham SN12 8PW Call: 01225 782949 Visit: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk
Lucknam Park
The White Hart Inn
HOTEL & SPA
Come and enjoy the new summer menu in the fabulous Brasserie at Lucknam Park Hotel and Spa, just six miles east of Bath. With its pretty terrace overlooking the walled gardens and dovecote, The Brasserie is simply perfect for al fresco dining. New Head Chef Liam Cooper prepares creative, seasonal dishes using the finest ingredients, sourced locally where possible. The Brasserie is open seven days a week, with a ‘must-try’ new menu now available. A two-course set lunch menu costs from £19 and the threecourse set lunch from £21, together with an à la carte menu available for lunch and dinner.
28
The golden rule at The White Hart is honest food at honest prices. Two minutes’ walk from Bath Spa train station over the footbridge to Widcombe, this former Georgian coaching inn has become a real favourite.
During the summer, meals tend to be enjoyed al fresco in the pretty walled garden. Staff are friendly, the atmosphere is casual, the beer is real and the locally sourced food never falls below the exacting standards of its passionate owners.
Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire, SN14 8AZ
The White Hart Inn Widcombe Hill, Widcombe, Bath BA2 6AA
Call: 01225 742777 Visit: www.lucknampark.co.uk
Call: 01225 338053 Visit: www.whitehartbath.co.uk
T H E G R E E N D R A G O N - D O W N E N D 0117 914 1101 T H E R O Y A L G E O R G E - T H O R N B U R Y 01454 414 030 A N D N O W AT
T H E S H I P & C A S T L E - C O N G R E S B U R Y 01934 833 535
w w w. m e z z e r e s t a u r a n t s . c o m
ONE TO WATCH
All three of our lovely old pubs serve a wide and interesting selection of Mezzés (tapas) for informal dining side by side with a well-balanced a la carte menu which has a scattering of old favourites - something for everyone! Each restaurant has a pretty garden to sit and relax and choose from a selection of some of the most popular continental beers and cocktails (alcoholic or not). We serve a variety of Brunches as well as our ‘little dishes’ and some really flavoursome teas, coffees and hot chocolate.
No need to get up and go to the bar to replenish your drinks, our friendly and hospitable staff will serve you at your table and if you wish, help you to choose which dishes you prefer. Children are made very welcome and our flexible style of dining suits them down to the ground. A great way to introduce them to new tastes.
At The Ship & Castle we also have 6 Boutique guestrooms in our AA 4 star rated hotel and an old fashioned ice cream parlour in the beautiful garden with a whole cupboardful of glorious flavours and toppings to tempt you. In the evenings we light the flame lanterns so that you can dine by torchlight and… there are two mysterious white lions over by the waterfall just begging to have their photograph taken with new friends
Why don’t you put your feet
A DOZEN SUMMER DISTRACTIONS
Bovey Castle A long weekend in the country typifies the traditional English summer – picnics brimming with seasonal flavours, lazy afternoons playing croquet and day trips to explore attractions. Experience the delights of the countryside with a gourmet sojourn to the former rural retreat of aristocracy, a visit to Bovey Castle on Dartmoor National Park. Within its 275-acre estate, the hotel boasts an 18-hole championship golf course, fishing lakes, croquet lawn, falconry and cider and sloe ginmaking with Dartmoor fruits.
Horse riding, yacht excursions, clay pigeon shooting and a luxurious picnic can be booked with the hotel before arrival, with the beaches of Devon and Cornwall also within easy reach. ‘Time to Long Weekend’ at Bovey Castle is the perfect summer escape with two nights’ accommodation on Friday and Saturday, full English breakfast on both mornings, dinner in The Edwardian Grill on one night, a traditional Sunday lunch and a late 3pm Sunday check-out. From £325.00 per person for two nights.
Bovey Castle North Bovey, Dartmoor National Park, Devon TQ13 8RE Call: 01647 445000 Visit: www.boveycastle.com
Berry Head Hotel
Charingworth Manor
Few places in the South West can provide such a stunning vista of a thriving, picturesque fishing port in such elegant surroundings, as can be enjoyed at the Berry Head Hotel in Brixham.
The perfect Cotswold manor house hotel in warm Cotswold stone, Charingworth has commanded views over idyllic rural Gloucestershire countryside for 700 years.
out at sea, is an experience not to be missed. Enjoy sailing, angling or walks in lovely parkland before retiring to your luxurious en suite room to relax in this tranquil coastal haven.
Dining in Bonapartes Restaurant on fish freshly caught that day, while watching the trawlers bobbing
steam room and pool. Charingworth is a pet-friendly hotel and welcomes your dogs if they are well behaved!
Choose from suites and four-poster rooms, all with their own character and many with private terraces and views over five counties, while dining in the intimate AA-rosetted restaurant with a seasonal menu that makes the very best of fresh Cotswold produce. Unwind in the leisure facility complete with gym, sauna,
Charingworth Manor Charingworth, Nr Chipping Campden, Glous GL55 6NS Berry Head Hotel Berry Head Road, Brixham, Devon TQ5 9AJ Call: 01803 853225 Visit: www.berryheadhotel.com 30
Call: 01386 593555 Visit: www.classiclodges.co.uk/ Charingworth_Manor_The_Cotswolds
up and escape from it all...
A DOZEN SUMMER DISTRACTIONS
Driftwood Hotel
The Old Bell
Where else can you walk down a wooded path, to your own beach and cove? Where else can you lie back on a steamer chair, with a glass of wine, and enjoy an unbroken sea view? Where else can you eat the best Michelin-starred, locally sourced food, perhaps lobster caught that morning, or crab from the bay?
Escape to Malmesbury and England’s oldest hotel, whether for a light lunch on the patio, dinner in the fine dining restaurant or a break in one of the classic rooms, a warm welcome awaits.
ups are all well looked after. Vibrant distraction or peaceful seclusion; the choice is entirely yours.
Situated in the centre of the town, everything is at your door; The Abbey House Gardens, the river walk across the meadows circling the town and of course the abbey itself. A wonderful setting for a wonderful hotel…
Whoever you are or whatever you’re looking for, whether that be a family holiday, a boutique or romantic hotel in Cornwall, Driftwood Hotel is perfect for all your needs. Families, romantic couples or small groups of grownDriftwood Hotel Rosevine, Portscatho, Cornwall TR2 5EW
The Old Bell Abbey Row, Malmesbury, Wiltshire SN16 0BW
Call: 01872 580644 Visit: www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk
Call: 01666 822344 Visit: www.oldbellhotel.co.uk
Francis Hotel Located in the heart of historic Bath, the newly opened Francis Hotel effortlessly combines 21st-century elegance with the splendour of the Regency era – when the rich and famous ‘took the waters’ of Bath’s therapeutic hot springs for their wellbeing. Now part of the MGallery collection of unique hotels following a £6m refurbishment, Francis Hotel features 98 individually-styled bedrooms, a sumptuous lounge and bar, snug and front parlour, and encapsulates the Regency spirit with its eclectically elegant design. Colours are vibrant and the period is celebrated throughout, with peacockpatterned fabrics and wallpaper, giltframed mirrors and beaded panelling.
REGENCY LUXURY AND GASTRONOMIC TREATS
From the moment of arrival, the hotel exudes a warm, homely feel and guests, who are personally greeted and hosted, will recognise that a unique experience awaits them. In a fashionable city like Bath, everything stops for afternoon tea – and tea at Francis Hotel truly sets the bar. With its own take on the very British tradition, the treat offers a delectable selection of sandwiches, scones, cakes, teas and tisanes, served in its impressive Regency-style lounge. What’s more, the bar at the hotel offers a stylish setting to enjoy classic and signature cocktails.
Francis Hotel Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH Call: 01225 424105 Visit: www.francishotel.com 31
Why don’t you put your feet
A DOZEN SUMMER DISTRACTIONS
The Old Rectory Hotel The Old Rectory is a stylish, relaxed, boutique country house hotel on the stunning Exmoor coast in unspoilt North Devon. This is a peaceful haven – no crowds, no kids, no traffic – just birdsong and jaw-dropping scenery, somewhere magical to stop and smell the roses. So if you need to soothe the mind and replenish the soul, you couldn’t choose a better place.
At The Old Rectory you are guaranteed a warm welcome, thoughtful service, fabulous luxury rooms, fantastic local food from Exmoor and North Devon and an award-winning wine list. If you were going to run away, this is where you should go!
The Old Rectory Martinhoe, Exmoor National Park, Devon EX31 4QT Call: 01598 763368 Visit: www.oldrectoryhotel.co.uk
The Queens Arms The Swan The Swan in Wedmore, is that new breed of pub where everyone is welcome to drink, dine or stay. At its heart is a kitchen led by River Cottage-trained Tom Blake, who produces unfussy yet uncompromisingly tasty dishes.
The Queens Arms, Corton Denham, is three miles from Sherborne, tucked into the hills forming the dramatic Somerset/Dorset border. With eight individually designed, luxurious rooms,
AA-rosette food and an award-winning drinks list, The Queens Arms offers a chic rural getaway for those in search of something a little bit better.
The Queens Arms Corton Denham, Somerset DT9 4LR Call: 01963 220317 Visit: www.thequeensarms.com 32
The menu changes twice daily and has already earned The Good Food Guide’s Readers’ Restaurant of the Year (South West) after just nine months. They don’t believe in short cuts: jams and chutneys are made on the premises, bread is baked daily and bacon home cured.
The Swan Cheddar Road, Wedmore, Somerset BS28 4EQ Call: 01934 710 337 Visit: www.theswanwedmore.com
up and escape from it all...
Thermae Bath Spa
A DOZEN SUMMER DISTRACTIONS
Antonia’s Pearls
Treat yourself to an evening at Thermae Bath Spa and experience the gradual change in light and atmosphere as you bathe in the naturally warm, mineral-rich waters. The Twilight Package (available Sunday–Friday) gives full use of the Minerva Bath, aroma steam rooms and open-air rooftop pool and includes a light meal & drink in the Springs Restaurant – all for £42 per person or £80 for two. Antonia’s Pearls is a collection of four, beautifully bespoke holiday rental properties in the stunning port of Charlestown, Cornwall.
Thermae Bath Spa, Hot Bath Street, Bath BA1 1SJ Call: 0844 888 0844 Visit: www.thermaebathspa.com
Whether you choose Marine Villa, overlooking the port; The Cabin, a pair of tiny, exquisitely renovated Grade-II listed buildings; Olivias, a little beauty 100 yards from the sea; or The Cottage, a beautiful property set back from the harbour, you’re sure to enjoy a stay full of peace, tranquility and absolute serenity with Antonia’s Pearls… Call: 07967 104131 Visit: www.antoniaspearls.co.uk
The Angel Inn This lovely old pub, situated within sight of the historic Ashton Court Estate, has been welcoming guests without interruption for over half a millennium. The late Tudor cellars deliver CasqueMark ales, while the more modern kitchen delivers heartwarming food. The Angel knows what its customers like. The menu is as traditional as the surroundings, but you will always find a twist in the nightly specials board. You won’t be disappointed by the quality or portions, but for those of you with a lighter appetite, they can always reduce plate size!
The Angel Inn 172 Long Ashton Road, Bristol BS41 9LT Call: 01275 392244 Visit: www.theangel-longashton.co.uk
Within sight of the parish church, The Angel Inn also caters for weddings, christenings and funerals. Impromptu buffets and birthday celebrations are enhanced by the convenience of five dreamily comfortable guest rooms above the pub.
11976-PKitchen 170x116mm Flavour Mag Ad_Layout 1 29/03/2012 11:09am Page 1
S a thous ve and o
f pou s Why destroy your perfectly good carcass units when they nds can look like new with a Premier Kitchen Doors makeover? A fantastic and economic alternative to having a new kitchen – we’ll replace the old doors and drawer fronts with beautiful new ones.
Quicker, d s an less mesn, and disruptio than a r pe chea tchen! new ki
Working with your perfectly good existing units, experienced staff fit new doors, end panels, plinth, cornice and pelmet, together with new hinges, handles, worktop, sink and hob. A wide choice of attractive, high quality materials from the UK and Germany (all doors are UK made). Call today to arrange your no obligation home visit.
12 MON
GUARA TH NTEE
Fantastic kitchen makeovers to complement your home Servin,g Avon t Somerse and Wiltshire
Web: premierkitchendoors.co.uk | Tel: 01225 651231
> flavour martin blunos
FOOD WITH DRINK (or is it ‘drink with food’?)
With a chaser at hand, Martin Blunos formulates the perfect recipe – after the kids have gone to bed...
My latest dish demonstrations took place in Scotland, at Glasgow’s SECC. An unusually sweltering Scotland, I might add, compared to here. I took to the stage, at the Ideal Homes Show, and banged out a trio of dishes with much applause and adulation from the audience (honest injun). My main dish – poached breast of guinea fowl – had a shot of the good stuff in its makeup. Not just any old tipple but Buckfast fortified wine. I’ve used it before, again in Scotland, where it’s affectionately known as ‘Buckie’. Made by monks in Devon, the bottle has a label stating that it’s a tonic, the small print under that statement says it’s not? OK it’s no Chateau Petrus but it does cook up rather well. Cooking burns off the alcohol and you are left with the delicate nuances of the fruit (allegedly!). As to where the added caffeine goes is anyone’s guess. My guinea fowl poaching stock magically transformed from cloudy and dull to crystal and golden with the addition of half a bottle of Buckie and half an hour’s
simmering. My audience thought this amazing as this particular beverage makes its way to the stomach direct from the bottle. Cooking with it was madness they told me – madness! More often than not, at home, unless you are making gastronomic delights for an approaching dinner party, where for example, the Chocolate Grand Marnier mousse requires (duh!) Grand Marnier, then the cork will stay firmly in the bottle until ‘drinkies o’clock’ – meaning; 1. The kids have been put to bed; 2. You want to make the kids that you want to put to bed; 3. The footy’s on. In some cases it’s nice to have it on the side. A chaser if you will – a glass of red wine following down a well-masticated mouthful of yumminess cleanses the palate. Equally a pint of cider helps the dry roasted nuts on their way. But cooking with it is fine as well and it transforms dishes. A recipe that calls for it needs it! Could you imagine; ‘coq au vin’ without the vin would just be a load of coq!
Here’s a recipe that uses red wine and is great for the barbecue weather we are having (NB – can be used on hob indoors, ha!).
RED WINE MARINADE INGREDIENTS • 200ml red wine • 4 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed to a paste • 1 large shallot, peeled, finely sliced • 1 small spring thyme, bruised • 1 fresh bay leaf • 1 small sprig rosemary, bruised • 3 tbsp golden rapeseed oil • 4 tbsp golden caster sugar • 1 level tsp fine salt METHOD Mix all together and use as a soak for meats and poultry.
This mix is enough for approx 1 kilo of meat/poultry – overnight in fridge or 2hrs ambient – dab off excess and the bits ‘n’ bobs before cooking. (This will stop the burning of the small stuff.)
Follow me on Twitter: @martinblunos1
One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 35
102 Cookery School
DON’T MI OUT – BO SS YOUR CLAOK S TODAY! S
New ‘State of the Art’ Cookery School brought to you by Bristol’s leading retailer and family business of the year Nailsea Electrical.
How Does It Work? It’s simple; we provide the chefs, the ingredients, the aprons, the knives and stateof-the-art equipment! You simply don your apron, roll up your sleeves and get stuck into some creative cookery, learning dishes that you will want to recreate at home for family and friends!
best at the top of their trade, and pick up all the hints and tips that have made their food such a success. Hands On Cookery: Cookery classes are running almost on a daily basis with classes varying from Indian to Foraging and many, many more!
At the end of every class you will have the opportunity to sit down at our restaurant table and enjoy your creations over a glass of wine and friendly chat with the chef team! Our Chef Team: Classes are being taught by the South West’s leading restaurant head chefs and producers, offering you a unique opportunity to learn from the very
Some of our Classes in July: • Foraging with Toby Gritten (Last year Toby’s foraging antics earned him a slot on Jamie Oliver’s TV series and featured in his book) • In Time for Tea with Masterchef of Great Britain Scott Lucas • Spiced to Perfection by Indian Street Food Coconut Chilli • Flavours of West Bengal by Romy Gill • Ronnie’s Signature Dishes by Ronnie Faulkner of Muset and Ronnie’s at Thornbury • Sushi Master Class by Your Sushi: Bristol’s only authentic Sushi experience • Baking with Harts Bakery: Learn amazing baking techniques with famous Bristol
IMAGES ©JON CRAIG
Follow us on Twitter @102cookery
Find us on Facebook under 102cookery
102 Cookery School | 102 Gloucester Road | Bishopston | Bristol BS7 8BN Call 0117 244 0047 | Visit www.102cookeryschool.co.uk
the herb doctor Max Drake is a practising medical herbalist at the Urban Fringe Dispensary, where he runs courses and workshops teaching how to use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.
Burdock
(Arctium lappa) You’ll find burdock between March and October growing wild in damp meadows and waysides or around woodland streams. It displays large rhubarb-like leaves, and in its second year gets quite big and produces the characteristic burrs, the little round seeds that cling on to your clothing, child, dog etc. Apparently the burrs were the original inspiration for velcro, as their little hooks work in the same way. The main bit that herbalists use is the root. The tap root is very deep and strong, and is best harvested in the plant’s first year, as it goes a bit woody after that and starts to rot from the inside. A good time to get it is at the end of the first summer, when the leaves are dying back. If you leave it much longer than that you’ll find it hard to locate as the plant all but disappears over winter. The roots are starchy and oily, and a little bit bland, although both the French and the Japanese serve it up with oily rich foods to help with the digestion of fats. In fact, as it’s such an ancient plant and has been growing around these parts at least since the Ice Age, it’s probably one of our original foraging crops, so not surprising that we have been aware of its
THIS H T MON medicinal properties for thousands of years. The key thing about burdock is the detoxing effect it has on the liver and kidneys. Obviously these are organs of detoxification anyway, and usually get on fine without burdock, but burdock is one of those herbs that delivers a little nudge in the right place, particularly useful for people with a sluggish metabolism or poor diet. Clinically, a tincture of burdock root will often make a big difference in the treatment of various skin conditions, such as acne, psoriasis and eczema. Usually only a small amount is needed, and its best to start off with small doses and work upwards until the desired effect happens, because if you go in too strong at first you can cause a short term flare-up, which is not what the average pimply teenager wants. The best burdock tincture I’ve made so far was using the fresh root, washed and chopped, steeped in Spanish brandy for two months. It tasted great – the brandy brought out some of the sweetness in the root. You literally only need to have a few drops of this a couple of times a day to provoke the aforementioned nudging action, and this can make quite a difference over a couple of weeks or so.
37
flavour’s latest columnist Jack Stein brings us the best from the sea...
Jack Stein was born in Cornwall and is the middle son of three boys to celebrated chef Rick Stein. After several years learning the trade, Jack returned to The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow as sous chef before moving on to a tournant role across the whole company. He is currently the head of development for the company, leading the installation and introduction of a development kitchen for the business, where new recipes and ingredients will be tested.
Tongue and cheek Serves two as a starter I was asked by Sharp’s Brewery in Rock to create some dishes to complement their new range of connoisseur beers. I saw this as a great opportunity to finish a dish that I have been developing on and off for a year. This quite often happens; an idea or technique lies dormant for a while before being brought back to life.
Restaurant, Stephan Delourme, is always looking for new ways to make use of every piece of a fish taken into the larder section of the kitchen. For years we have been removing the cheeks from turbot but have never had a recipe to use them in. I wanted to pair the cheeks with ox tongue as it’s also an unusual and often overlooked cut.
The dish is a bit ‘surf and turf’ which can sometimes have a bad reputation, so I am calling it ‘beef and reef’! The idea came from a desire to use some lesser-known cuts of fish as our head chef at The Seafood
I am aware that people may not be able to get hold of turbot cheeks very readily, but they are very similar to scallops, an easy substitution for the recipe. Similarly instead of the ox tongue you could use belly pork
Follow Jack on Twitter @JackStein Image ©David Griffen
Recipe ©Jack Stein
> flavour out of the ocean
or pancetta. The tongue is mainly used as a textural element in this dish anyway. The dish is very summery and light, the combination of the curried sweetcorn and peppery rocket marry perfectly with the sweetness from the turbot cheeks. Sweetcorn is a great vector for many different spice blends, here
I have used a basic garam masala but you could use five-spice or any of the other regional spice mixes out there. Sweetcorn is one of the easiest purĂŠes to make and goes really well with white fish or chicken. Although the dish seems quite complicated, there are really useful elements that you can take from it to build other dishes.
Ingredients
Method
60g ox tongue cut into cubes or pancetta
1 For the tongue, immerse in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil and then drain the water. Repeat the process again but add the carrot, onion and bay leaf to the pan. Once it has reached boiling point reduce the heat down to low and simmer for six hours. Drain the water and set aside until cooled then peel the tongue and cut into small 3cm cubes.
1 carrot, roughly chopped 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 bay leaf 200g tinned sweetcorn 75g chicken stock 15g unsalted butter A pinch of garam masala Salt, to season 120g of turbot cheeks or 6 scallops Wild rocket leaves
2 For the sweetcorn puree drain the liquid from the tin then place in a saucepan with the stock and butter and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for five minutes then place into a food processor. Blitz the sweetcorn well and then pass it through a sieve to remove any husks. Season with salt and a pinch of garam masala and reserve.
We are very lucky to have one of our ex head chefs growing vegetables for us just a stone’s throw from Padstow, and his wild rocket has an amazingly vibrant colour and flavour which I think sets the dish off brilliantly.
3 Meanwhile, fry the tongue cubes in oil until crispy and drain on kitchen paper. 4 For the cheeks, fry on one side adding some butter at the end for colour, cook like you would a scallop leaving them a little rare in the middle. 5 To serve, simply place the purĂŠe in the middle and then build the dish. I have chosen to put it on a Cornish slate. It is not usually the sort of presentation I would go for but I think the dark highlights the yellow of the sweetcorn quite well. Garnish with wild rocket leaves and a pinch more garam masala.
39
Flavour editor Nick Gregory found a midweek trip to Bath one that he would very much like to do again...
The Bath Priory HOTEL, RESTAURANT AND SPA
A
s with so many things in the greater scheme of life, we often take for granted and as such overlook what is staring up at us from our own doorstep. Having lived in and around Bath for some years now, I have been inherently guilty of that very shortfall and with that, until recently, have missed out on the plentiful charms and refinements of the fabulous Bath Priory. That said, it was worth the delay. Having been shown to our room, the luxurious and yet unpretentious ‘Heather’ overlooking the manicured, sun-soaked gardens, my partner and I opted for an early-evening dip in the secluded outside pool. No worries that I had left my swimming attire at home as the Hotel’s spa have Speedos on sale for that very eventuality (not of the apple catching variety either). Exercise done, albeit of a profoundly lethargic nature, the terrace beckoned and an aperitif of chilled Soave perfectly supported the remainder of the day’s sunshine that so enveloped our stay. When you have Michelin-starred Michael Caines as Executive Head Chef and the pretender to the throne Sam Moody as Head Chef, you know that whatever you order from the menu is going to be a tribute to Mother Nature herself and so, to alleviate the agony of choice, the Taster Menu was a no-brainer. These
40
menus change with the seasonality of the produce, but on our particular visit offerings included canapés, salmon tartar, seared Brixham scallops, gull egg and morels, veal sweetbreads, turbot, pigeon, rhubarb sorbet, chocolate fondant and petit fours – that should do it! An interesting bottle of white Ollieux Romanis Corbières went down the right way and at just £29 a bottle was real value. The meal was not a sum of its parts. The parts were themselves shining and complete examples of what The Bath Priory offers, each one presented with refinement, releasing a heavenly spectrum of taste and delivering a fait accompli to end all fait accompli(s)?! A coffee later and we were flummoxed. Although The Bath Priory is but a pebble’s toss from the main road, you really would never know it. A night in one of the 27 bedrooms, one of the newly-refurbished suites if you have really made it big, promises one of splendour, richness, frills and above all total quiet. You almost don’t want to nod off… Breakfast, as always I’m afraid, passed me by, but I’m reliably informed was yet another well crafted feast of continental and homegrown offerings to knock your socks off. My socks if truth be told were not on anyway, the bed still a comforting magnet of hospitality.
During the day there is a certain ‘ladies that lunch’ feel about The Bath Priory, the well-appointed spa, impeccable gardens and countryside feel obvious draws, but that is unrepresentative of what this town retreat really is. This is somewhere everyone can enjoy. There is a time and a place for fine dining, after all it does take rather longer than a curry in a microwave, so picking your time to venture to The Bath Priory to fully absorb the experience will be time well spent. The rewards are palpable and you will want to return, armed with a complete understanding of the check-in and check-out times to maximize your stay. Whether the budget allows a return overnight is a different matter – maybe it’s one for the diary – but it should definitely make it on your Bath ‘bucket list’ if you haven’t yet been, and those like myself, will know full well that everything being equal, we will be back again. There’s a lot to like about The Bath Priory.
Bath Priory Hotel, Restaurant and Spa Weston Road Bath BA1 2XT 01225 331922 www.thebathpriory.co.uk
The meal was not a sum of its parts. The parts were themselves shining and complete examples of what The Bath Priory offers
King John Inn
Summer Kitchen
Tollard Royal, Wiltshire, SP5 5PS - Telephone 01725 516 207 - www.kingjohninn.co.uk
The Old Station Inn With obvious links to the railway, The Old Station features an old Pullman carriage as its restaurant, which has been lovingly restored to all its former glory.
Al Fresco dining with a wood-burning stove and barbecue is available in the warmer months and dining under the stars on our deck is a must for the romantic.
01761 452228 www.theoldstationandcarriage.co.uk The Old Station | Wells R oad | Bristol BS39 6EN OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER – ALL DAY ON FRIDAY, SATURDAY AND SUNDAY.
Relaxed, modern dining with a warm and friendly atmosphere...
A restaurant with a personal touch Events Saturday June 30 DJ Dave Forde playing chilled soul and funk from 9pm to 1am
Sample Menu Starters
Mains
Desserts
Soup of the day. £6.00
Fish and Chips. £12.90
Summer Fruit Pudding. £6.00
Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdays 2 for 1 from specials board
Calamari with chilli. sauce £6.60
Risotto Primevera. £12.90
Café Gourmond. £6.00
Thursdays Steak Night – £10 for steak and chips, first and best in town
Fig and Goats Cheese Crème Brulee. £6.60
Roasted Poussin, pomme perigourdine and pancetta jus. £14.50
Cheese plate. £6.00
Fridays Fish deal – 2 main fish courses and bottle of house wine £29 New Cocktail list and 6 classics 2 for 1 before 8pm every night
01225 334050 onebeaufort.com One Beaufort | London Road | Bath BA1 6QB
Chicken, Chorizo and Parmesan Terrine. £6.80 Roasted Camembert for 2 to share. £10.00
Pan Fried Hake with Green bean and almond salad. £13.90
A discretionary 10% service for table of 5 or more
Strawberry Eton Mess. £6.00 Vanilla Cheesecake. £6.00 Sorbet. £6.00
BY MEGAN OWEN
With the excitement and enjoyment from the patriotic Jubilee weekend behind us, attention has now turned to the other events that summer 2012 has to offer. But as London prepares to be catapulted onto the world stage as host of the Olympics, it’s not just British culture that we should be celebrating. As well as absorbing the great atmosphere that will be delivered by the games, visitors to the UK during the summer will no doubt indulge in British culture, and accustom themselves to our ways. So why not do the same, and embrace the unmissable opportunities that will be presented to engage with people from all different parts of the world? There are 205 nations competing in the Olympics, which, from a foodie focus, means at least 205 different cuisines and styles of food to explore, so let the games take you on a culinary journey around the world from the comfort of your own home and kitchen, and involve your taste buds in an unforgettable cultural experience. 44
IMAGE CREDITS: OLYMPICS 1952 LOGO AIJA LEHTONEN / OLYMPICS 2012 LOGO–DUTOURDUMONDE — SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
A Feast of Olympic Proportions
> flavour a feast of olympic proportions
Here are five podium-placed feasts to get you started: USA Hamburgers are often thought of as a popular American dish, and in the UK they feature strongly at barbecues and other meal occasions. Although many of us may buy them ready-to-cook from butchers or supermarkets, they are in fact incredibly easy to make from scratch. Mix up the normal flavours that you would experience by adding herbs, spices and finely chopped vegetables, and consider changing the beef mince for pork, lamb or chicken for a tasty change.
Greece Spain Tapas may seem like a complicated meal to make at home, but with a select range of dishes it can make for an impressive lunchtime or evening meal. When I make tapas, I tend to opt for paella (last time with chicken, chorizo and prawns), patatas bravas and roasted Mediterranean vegetables. They all take a similar amount of time to cook and dinner should be served within 90 minutes. For an impressive and inviting finishing touch, you can boost the table setting with some warm ciabatta bread, juicy olives and homemade sangria.
If you are hosting an Olympic party for guests, or just fancy an evening of nibbling in front of the games, a Greek meze platter can be a perfect meal option. Boasting a selection of easy-toeat foods, indulge in a range of cheeses, breads, olives, meats and hams, houmous and tzatiki, as well as whatever else may take your fancy.
Italy France Moules Frites is one of my favourite dishes when made well, but many shy away from cooking mussels at home. If you are worried, you should be able to find an easy-to-cook pack in most supermarkets, but if you are feeling adventurous, head to a local fishmonger’s and indulge in a fresh taste from the sea. Be creative with your sauce as well – the creamy shallot and white wine option is a classic, but you could also stir things up and design your own, or try a tomato-based sauce with a chilli kick! Chips don’t have to be standard and plain either – use sweet potato instead, or deep fry battered green beans for an alternative crunch.
Italian dishes can be great for creating a culinary occasion that the whole family can participate in, so why not try making your own pasta or pizza with home-made dough? Ravioli in particular can offer versatility, with different fillings accommodating different family tastes, and a pizza design competition can encourage children to interact with the processes used to make their food, teaching them that it can be fun and interesting as well as delicious!
So make summer 2012 about enjoying hair-raising sport and phenomenal food, and remember, the Olympics may come and go in a flash, but the memories gained and the experiences shared will continue long after the flame goes out... 45
The Bull Hotel Seductive décor, enticing environs and irresistible fodder – Charlie Lyon throws her West Country roots to the wind for this Dorset favourite
I
t’s June: it’s grey, it’s rainy – it’s not a surprise. The A37 that winds sleepily from Bristol to deepest Dorset is plagued with dawdling Micras, and my limp windscreen wipers do little to optimise the view that Me Babber and I have ample time to admire. I’m a Somerset girl born and bred, so often find it quite needless to cross the county border to discover beautiful stays and delicious local produce – but with recommendations from Condé Nast, The Observer and Alastair Sawday, I’m keen to discover whether boutique inn The Bull Hotel lives up to the hype. As I steer the Fiesta (my other car, the racing green convertible, having been left in the garage due to wet weather) onto Bridport high street, everything changes. Huzzah! As if by magic the first rays of sunshine stretch out warmly through the clouds and post-jubilee bunting feels like a welcoming party for us gallant travellers. Taking pride of place on the bustling high street (it’s market day) is our destination. The Bull Hotel prides itself on its glamorous Regency-style interiors replete with statement wallpaper, Farrow and Ball painted walls, lovingly sourced furnishings and accessories and rolltop baths. Our deluxe double, named Nandi, had all of the above, and while the bath could have been better placed in the bathroom rather than the corner of the bedroom (I’m close friends with Me Babber, but we are still British), we both agreed it was pretty stupendous and provided ample talking points at dinner. The cosy restaurant and bar downstairs make up the heart of The Bull and the dinner menu is reassuringly short,
46
oozing confidence in the three land, sea and field choices it usually offers, as well as a selection of steaks.
raspberry parfait with hazelnut praline and enormous crème brûlée rounded off a delightful dinner in homemade style.
We raced through starters of seared Lyme Bay scallops, pea purée and pancetta crisps, and creamy truffled mushrooms on toast – although the homemade tomato bread truly stole the limelight.
Yet no trip to The Bull Hotel is complete without a stop in The Stable – the hotel’s onsite pub which specialises in pizzas, pies and ciders – so we stopped in for a nightcap. I often deny the fact that ciders that originate outside the West Country borders are worth trying, but dared the genial barman to find one suitable for my picky palate: “Not too sweet, not too dry, not sparkling but still with a hint of liveliness – and something that goes well after a big meal,” I asked.
For mains, it was difficult to ignore the special 26oz rib of beef to share, but our close proximity to the coast made the fish offerings even more appealing. I plumped for the lemon sole with spinach and new potatoes, while Me Babber picked a childhood favourite – the truncheon of brill with samphire and chive butter. My sole was soft and flavourful – cooked to perfection, while the tangy spinach still held the perfect bite. Me Babber, overly enchanted with her choice, had little time to comment, save sporadic “oohs” and “aahs”, and a deliciously floral Australian Sauvignon Blanc, picked from the colourful wine list, only heightened her excitement. So huge was my main that we had to take time out before dessert, but in the name of investigative journalism, we powered on. The perfectly sweet
He wasn’t fazed, and in an instant poured a small glass of the Lulworth Skipper brewed in a cognac cask. It was infuriatingly perfect. The next morning, a brisk walk to the nearby harbour town of West Bay helped further with digestion. The Golden Gateway to the Jurassic coast, as it’s known, is spectacular with its sandstone cliffs and spectacular coastal walks and only goes to cement in my mind that Bridport is definitely a piece of Dorset worth discovering, and definitely warrants the drive.
The Bull Hotel 34 East Street Bridport Dorset DT6 3LF ‘01308 422878 www.thebullhotel.co.uk
So huge was my main that we had to take time out before dessert, but in the name of investigative journalism, we powered on.
Perfect your outdoor cooking with Lakeland this summer
Cadac Safari Chef Ref 52055, £74.99
Cobb® Barbecue Cooking System Ref 50243, £104.99 (this will actually be available through into the autumn)
Cadac Cook & Grill Barbecue Ref 52056, £49.99
01539 488100
www.lakeland.co.uk
Available from Lakeland until August
walk,, sshop op & eat around...
Wells
and the surrounding area
The beautiful cathedral city of Wells, a former Roman settlement and arguably the smallest city in England with a population of just over 10,000, attracts visitors from far and wide for its diverse range of exquisite shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels. Be sure to look out for the 60 swan sculptures, dotted around the streets and grounds to mark the Jubilee year. They will only be around until the end of the summer, so be sure to visit Wells as soon as you can‌
nd... wells
> flavour walk, shop & eat arou
food COOK Remarkable for your freezer
Cook, 13 Broad Street, Wells, Somerset BA5 2DJ Call: 01749 677726 Visit: www.cookfood.net
The discovery of COOK in Wells should give you a reason to celebrate. Their founding principle is to make food using exactly the same techniques and ingredients that you would use at home, so everything looks and tastes homemade. COOK has garnered numerous awards and media accolades and what’s even more remarkable is that all their meals are frozen and go straight from your freezer into the oven or microwave. Ultimately, the food speaks for itself, so visit the store, go online or give COOK a call.
The Crown at Wells The Swan Hotel A 15th-century inn, The Crown comprises 15 en suite bedrooms, popular restaurant Anton’s Bistrot and the lively Penn Bar.
The ethos at The Crown is to source good quality, seasonal, local produce wherever possible and to provide diners with a great meal at a reasonable price.
The menus offer an eclectic choice of mouthwatering dishes, with great specials and, on Sundays, the traditional roast. The well-considered wine list complements the menus, while local ales and ciders are also available.
The Swan Hotel has built-up a reputation for serving superb cuisine. Recognised by two prestigious AA Rosettes, Head Chef Leigh Say endeavours to use the finest locally sourced ingredients. The oak-panelled restaurant, largely surviving from the 15th century, seats up to 50 guests, while in good weather diners can enjoy eating al fresco in the tranquil Walled Garden Café or the Swan Terrace with stunning cathedral views. This spacious area provides the perfect setting in which to enjoy informal dining during the summer months. The hotel is open to non-residents for morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner.
The Crown, Market Place, Wells BA5 2RP Call: 01749 673457 Email: eat@crownatwells.co.uk Visit: www.crownatwells.co.uk
The Swan Hotel, Sadler Street, Wells, Somerset BA5 2RX Call: 01749 836300 Visit: www.swanhotelwells.co.uk
Goodfellows Patisserie Lots of restaurants claim to cater for all, but Goodfellows, a stone’s throw from the cathedral, does everything effortlessly and expertly. Award-winning chef-patron Adam Fellows and his team serve up divine fish dishes in the seafood restaurant, perfect for a midweek supper or special occasion. The adjoining café/bakery is the go-to place for great value lunch (only a tenner for two courses with wine) and you’ll have trouble leaving without a box of patisserie and an artisan loaf.
50
Goodfellows Patisserie, 5 Sadler Street, Wells, Somerset BA5 2RR Call: 01749 673 866 Visit: www.goodfellowswells.co.uk
> flavour walk, shop & eat arou
nd... wells
The Manor House Inn Somerset’s best-kept secret...
Nestled deep in the rolling Somerset countryside, between Shepton Mallet and Castle Cary, lies the pretty hamlet of Ditcheat, which harbours a fabulous secret – The Manor House Inn.
T
his beautiful red-brick building sits in the heart of the village and is framed with stunning flagstone floors and reclaimed oak beams. On walking through the door you’ll notice a strong horse racing connection through the village’s association with local resident Paul Nicholls – the Champion Trainer and this year’s Grand National winner! Dishes on the à la carte menu at The Manor House Inn change monthly and are freshly prepared using the finest local ingredients. Also on offer are the more traditional bar dishes as well as daily specials and fish dishes. On Sundays, food is served from 12noon
to 5pm, including the popular excellentvalue Sunday roasts. Just remember to save room for a homemade pudding! The well-stocked bar is open all day with a large selection of Somerset ciders, real ales and fine wines. Outside, there is plenty of seating in the gardens – perfect for those summer days with a cooling drink. If you’re lucky you may spot one of the famous horses such as Neptune Collonges or Kauto Star trotting by. Should you wish to stay the night, there are three recently refurbished rooms, all of which are named after Paul Nicholls’ Gold Cup winners: Kauto Star, Denman and See More Business.
The Manor House Inn, Ditcheat, Nr Shepton Mallet, Somerset BA4 6RB Call: 01749 860276 Visit: www.manorhouseinn.co.uk
The Manor House Inn was recently named as one of the top 50 pubs to visit at the weekend by the Sunday Times. So if you’re looking for a candlelit dinner, a light bite, a drink in a friendly countryside pub, or a quality venue for a small gathering then definitely make The Manor House Inn your next stop.
nd... wells
> flavour walk, shop & eat arou
Queen Street Deli
Sante
Queen Street Deli is a little haven of primarily locally sourced, delicious produce and goodies to tempt your tastebuds. QSD is renowned for its fabulous selection of award-winning cheeses, mouthwatering, homemade cakes, pastries, salads, charcuterie and many other tasty delights. Wash all of this down with their scrumptious local ciders and apple juices and you will find yourself a feast fit for the Queen at Queen Street Deli!
Queen Street Deli, 14 Queen Street Wells, Somerset BA5 2DP Call: 01749 679803 Visit: www.queenstreetdeli.co.uk
Jazz Hands Pasta Pasta fresca in Somerset seems a strange concept, but Steve and Juliet from Jazz Hands produce a fantastic range of traditional handcrafted, fresh and dried pasta. Seasonal ingredients sourced from the farmers’ markets in Bath and Wells, where they sell directly to marketgoers, are used to create the amazing fillings for their handmade ravioli and fresh sauces. A wide variety of speciality pasta, spinach, squid ink, fresh basil or beetroot is sold and supplied to restaurants and discerning food stores in the area.
Sante is an independent wine importer and shop and has been established since 2009. It’s owed and run by David Schroetter who has always had a passion for wines, having grown up surrounded by vineyards in the beautiful area of the Loire Valley. David believes European wines still have more for the connoisseur and offers good quality, good value wines that aren’t available anywhere else in the area. He liaises with young, vibrant wine producers to offer you tantalising wine to suit every palate at affordable prices. Sante also stocks local beers and ciders and offers a personal service and advice to all its customers.
Call: 07432 351001 Visit: www.artisanpasta.co.uk
The Somerset Cider Brandy Company The Somerset Cider Brandy Company is nestled among 160 acres of vintage cider apple orchards in South Somerset, also home of Burrow Hill Cider. Banned in England by Henry VIII in 1678, the art of cider distilling was revived by the Somerset Cider Brandy Company, who produce from a three-to a 20-year-old cider brandy. Other products include the famous Kingston Black apple aperitif, the Somerset pomona, apple eau de vie and morello cherries steeped in eau de vie. They can be found in many of the best restaurants around the country as well as stockists such as Fortnum and Mason and Harvey Nichols. 52
The Somerset Cider Brandy Company Burrow Hill, Kingsbury Episcopi Martock, Somerset TA12 6BU Call: 01460 240782 Visit: www.ciderbrandy.co.uk
Sante Wines, 56 High Street Wells, Somerset BA5 2NS Call: 01749 679431 Visit: www.santewineimports.com
> flavour walk, shop & eat arou
nd... wells
Fenny Castle House The beautiful Somerset Levels are just waiting to be discovered, and with Fenny Castle Tea Rooms and Bicycle Hire in the heart of this stunning rural position, now is the perfect time to come and visit.
Fenny Castle House Castle Lane, Wookey, Wells BA5 1NN Call: 01749 672297 Visit: www.fennycastle.co.uk
The homely but modern tea room serves fresh food and drinks and the comfortable sofas, coupled with splendid views across the Levels, provide the perfect environment to enjoy the menu. As well as a range of breakfasts and lunches there is also a large choice of afternoon tea including homemade cakes and scones.
THE LAUNDRY
Great Shakes
The ever-changing window display lures you into a vibrant shop with ranges of quality clothing, jewellery and gifts which you can browse to your heart’s content. As an independent business you can be assured that no stone is left unturned in their belief that customer service is of paramount importance. Nothing is left to chance and they strive each day to ensure that your experience at The Laundry is enjoyable. Visit the online shop and receive a 10 per cent discount on your first purchase when you phone in.
Tempting milkshakes, fresh and lively juices, coffees and teas make up the Great Shakes menu. Those with a sweet tooth can indulge in a rocky road milkshake while the health-conscious can enjoy a delicious detox smoothie. This vibrant bar brings something new to Wells, with its funky pop art adorning the walls giving it a retro feel. A jukebox helps create an effortlessly cool atmosphere that makes Great Shakes the perfect place to grab a drink or make a party venue. The Laundry, 58 High Street, Wells BA5 2SN Call: 01749 676516 Visit: www.thelaundrywells.co.uk
BEAH Restaurant By day BEAH is a meeting place for coffee, cakes and breakfasts with an English/ Mediterranean lunch menu served from 12 noon until 2pm. By night re-live those heady evenings spent on your Moroccan holiday with authentic rich tagines and pastilla (the house speciality) or choose from the full English/
Great Shakes 10 Heritage Courtyard, Saddlers Street, Wells BA5 2RR Call: 01749 671980 Facebook: GreatShakesWells BEAH Restaurant, 2 Union Street, Wells, Somerset BA5 2PU Call: 01749 678111 Visit: www.beah.co.uk
Mediterranean à la carte menu. You will always receive a warm welcome, friendly service and good food. For that special occasion visit the website gallery to view our beautiful ‘chapel’ function room or better still pop in and you’ll be shown around.
53
nd... wells
> flavour walk, shop & eat arou
Stoberry House and Garden Set in 26 acres of parkland, with breathtaking views over Wells and the Vale of Avalon, this six-acre family garden planted sympathetically within its landscape provides a stunning combination of vistas accented with wildlife ponds, water features, sculpture, one-and-a-half-acre walled garden, sunken garden, gazebo, potager and lime walk. There is colour and interest in every season; spring bulbs, irises, roses, acer glade and salvias. Treat yourself or a friend to a garden visit and a delicious cream tea A luxurious champagne tea Chocolate or a savoury tea The garden at Stoberry will be open ‘by appointment’ during 2012. Garden Open from March to September for groups or individuals by appointment only. LUXURY GUESTHOUSE Call Frances: 01749 672906 Email: stay@stoberry-park.co.uk Visit: www.stoberry-park.co.uk
Maddie nworBBrown eBrown iddaM Maddie Giftss r o iHome r e t n I eInteriors moH stfiG
Pickwicks Café
Maddie Brown occupies a perfect location, right in the Market Place, the beating heart of Wells. With a relaxed country approach, it features a gorgeous selection of goods from Emma Bridgewater, Cath Kidston and L’Occitane, to name a few. A relaxed environment, the shop feels like a real trip of discovery and the first floor continues the theme with high ceilings and natural light flooding in to show off pictures, furniture and accessories at their best.
Bursting sgniht swith uoeggorgeous rog htiw gthings nitsruB forem you oh and ruoyyour dna home uoy rof China, ,raestationery, wthgin dnacards, syot s’wrap, nerdlichildren’s hc ,parw ,stoys dracand ,yrenightwear, noitats ,anihC fashion ,retaaccessories wegdirB amand mE toiletries. .seirteliot Emma dna seiBridgewater, rossecca noihsaf Cath.eKidston, rom hcum L’Occitane hcum dnaand enamuch ticcO’L much ,notsmore. diK htaC poh sw ruo tisiV Visit us ine n wells
Visit sour new llew n i sshop u tisiV
nrobrehPlace, S ,teerWells, tS paehC 525 2 Cheap Street, 15,eMarket ,slleW ,ecalSherborne, P tekraM 51 UP3 BA5 9TD2RF tesroD Dorset Somerset FR2DT9 5AB 3PU tesremoS 66618679459 53910 :leT Tel:901935 Tel:201749 54976816662 94710 :leT
Place, BA5 Email: kMaddie u.omail@maddiebrown.co.uk c.nwoBrown, rbeiddam15 .wwMarket w ku.owww.maddiebrown.co.uk c.nworbWells eiddam@ liam2RF :liamE Call: 01749 679459 Visit: www.maddiebrown.co.uk 54
MB_A5 44:portrait 61 110ad 2/6aw.indd 0/20 1
1 dd02/06/2011 ni.wa da tiartr16:44 op 5A_BM
Back in May 2004, Pickwicks Café opened its doors to offer a unique blend of premium coffee, finest teas, quality soft drinks, great food and delicious snacks. In 2012 they renamed and refurbished for a great place to enjoy your new look Pickwicks Café Bar, professionally created wine and beer selection, complimentary Wi-Fi, live music (on selected nights), evening menu and authentic tapas. They still offer the same great product range during the day with table service, trained baristas and locally produced ingredients and products. Pickwicks Café, 25-27 Broad Street, Wells BA5 2DJ Call: 01749 676697
> flavour walk, shop & eat arou
nd... wells
The Ancient Gatehouse When you come to The Ancient Gatehouse you’ll feel at home as soon as you arrive. Whether you are staying in one of the recently decorated and beautiful bedrooms, or dining in one of the award-winning restaurants, your comfort and satisfaction are at the heart of everything The Ancient Gatehouse do.
The Ancient Gatehouse Sadler Street, Wells BA5 2SE Call: 01749 672029 Visit: www.ancientgatehouse.com
Hundred Monkeys is a thriving bistro and organic bakery in the heart of Glastonbury, serving a lovingly prepared, healthy menu of fresh food that changes monthly in order to showcase the abundance of Somerset’s seasonal produce. A strong ethical policy shapes the menu; much of the food is organic and supplied by
small, artisan producers. Their meats are all humanely reared and preferably from small Somerset producers, and the chicken is free-range. The menu caters for all diets, including gluten-free and vegan and there are frequently raw-food choices. Well-cooked fresh fish, café healthy curries and fresh salads are their speciality.
This is a family-run hotel and restaurant offering a blend of friendly and professional attention in relaxed yet stylish surroundings situated facing the famous west front of Wells Cathedral and the Cathedral Green. Hundred Monkeys Café 52 High Street, Glastonbury BA6 9DY Call: 01458 833386
The Crossways Inn Head Chef Nick Cooper believes that locally sourced, fresh ingredients cooked simply and seasonally are the key to inspiring diners. With a passion for sourcing the finest local ingredients, his À la Carte, Traditional Pub Classics and Bar Menus can be enjoyed against the stunning backdrop of Glastonbury Tor.
Hundred Monkeys Café
A beautiful roof terrace and comfortable dining areas offer the perfect venue for foodies looking for freshness and quality. Sample menus can be downloaded from the website.
La Terre CAFÉ, RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR
La Terre is a great place to relax with friends or family with delicious fresh coffee, freshly made cakes and a seasonal menu including breakfast, lunch and dinner, using locally sourced produce wherever possible. A comfy sofa area and big front window looking over the high street is fantastic for watching the world go by while enjoying the best coffee in town, all presided over by art exhibitions on the walls that change every six weeks. The excellent wine list and cosy dining make this a dreamy escape. You’ll love it... The Crossways Inn Stocks Lane, North Wootton, Nr Wells BA4 4EU Call: 01749 899000 Visit: www.thecrossways.co.uk
La Terre 22 High Street, Glastonbury BA6 9DU Call: 01458 834959 Visit: www.laterre.info 55
Food Fanatics Delicatessen and Coffee Shop
Stocking a range of Local, Regional and International Foods, from everyday necessities to that little indulgence. Finalist in the 2012 Cotswold Life Food and Drink Awards for Best Independent Retailer Whilst you are browsing, why not stop for a sweet or savoury snack in our coffee shop and soak up the surroundings
Call 01242 604466 Find us on Facebook Food Fanatics, 12 North Street, Winchcombe, Gloucestershire GL54 5LH WE ARE OPEN EVERYDAY
...a memorable experience at Britain’s premier Indian Restaurant
Connoisseurs choice for over three decades Open Daily
4 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BA Tel: 01225 466833 or 464758 www.rajpoot.com
y b s p o r d r u o v a fl
Andrews Quality Meats At Andrews it is all about the quality of the meat and with both partners having been in the meat trade since leaving school, and Andy Sears coming from a butchery family background, they have a wealth of experience and expertise. No one else touches their meat in preparation; they take the animals to their abattoir at Wootton Bassett and butcher and bone the meat themselves in-house. Based in Wiltshire, they opened a second high street shop in Marlborough in September 2011; they offer a range of top-quality, locally produced meat, poultry and game at competitive prices from both
shops. All their beef has been hung for 28 days, to ensure the very best flavour and texture, they make their own pies, sausage rolls, tasty burgers and a superb range of sausages including the ever-popular, ‘The Bloody Lovely Sausage’. Such a wide range of delicious homeprepared, award-winning cold meats is always available that customers are spoilt for choice. The partners are proud to have overcome the many challenges of the last 17 years to have beset the industry, ranging from B.S.E, the beef on the bone ban, the
foot-and-mouth crisis and the current recession. Andy Sears is very optimistic about the future: “I firmly believe we will come out of it a stronger business than when we went in.” He maintains that the secret of their success has been maintaining the quality of their product and establishing good customer and working relationships. Their friendly, experienced team are always happy to help and advise, and to prepare a particular cut or joint especially for you, if necessary.
OUR LOCATIONS 16 High Street, Highworth Swindon, Wiltshire SN6 7AG
4 High Street, Marlborough Wiltshire SN8 1AA
Tockenham Corner, Wootton Bassett Wiltshire SN4 7PF
Call: 01793 762085
Call: 01672 519915
Call: 01793 840841 57
> flavour chef profile
chef profile Name: Yoann Clement Age: 37 Where from: Born and raised in Orleans, France Head Chef: Stanton House Rosemary Restaurant
When did you first take an interest in cooking, and when did you decide you wanted to become a chef? I grew up in a pastry and bakery shop in France so at an early age I was already spending too much time in the kitchen. When I met my apprenticeship chef for the first time, he told me it would be “hell”… it was for about six months and then it just ‘clicked’. Where did you do your training? For the European side, a small hotel by the Loiret river near Orleans in France. Then I came to England as a pastry chef for Maison Blanc in Oxford, then a few Cotswold establishments. I had the pleasure to work with some talented chefs like Adam Saville, John Cadieux, David Cuss, just to name a few and all of them contributed to where I am now. For the Japanese side, I learned all I know from the resident Japanese chefs at Stanton House Hotel.
How would you describe the style of food served in your restaurant? Traditional Japanese and EuroJapanese fusion.
Stanton House The Avenue Stanton Fitzwarren Swindon SN6 7SD 0870 084 1388 www.stantonhouse.co.uk
Do you have a signature dish? The sweet bento box: a selection of deserts presented in a traditional Japanese bento box. The content varies with the seasons: you can find tempura pineapple with chocolate dipping sauce, green tea rice pudding, Japanese shortcake, fruit salad with sweet red bean purée and vanilla ice cream wrapped in sweet rice pasta, to share.
What would you order from your own menu? Sesame crusted Camembert, hot soup and wakame salad to start, followed by buta kakuni (fatty belly pork) with grain mustard mash potato, ginger carrots and teriyaki sauce and the sweet bento box for dessert. Your favourite vegetable, and why? The aubergine is a must-have in Japanese cuisine and my favourite for aubergine caviar. And favourite dessert? Roasted pineapple with citrus fruits and green tea puffed rice. Do you cook a lot at home? What sort of food? I’ll cook for friends and family but if I can get away with it, I have a good selection of take-away menus! I like to try new ingredients or products available to us from our Japanese suppliers. Where else locally do you like to eat? Yakiniku at Mt Fuji. Why should people come to Rosemary Restaurant? To sample our traditional Japanese menu or our Euro-Japanese fusion menu. There is something for everyone, from the simple spicy chicken thighs to the sashimi boat.
59
Shanghai Nights Pan Asian Buffet And much, much more...
Shanghai Nights, Bristol is all about choice; you choose your group menu – Gold, Silver or Bronze – for a fixed price or the lunch Dim Sum menu as an A La Carte. Our handpicked experienced chefs from Hong Kong, China and Asia will always ensure your dining experience at Shanghai Nights is a true authentic taste of the Orient. As part of an Oriental wholesaler group, all our ingredients are sourced from China, Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia to ensure authenticity and delivered directly from our warehouses. With fresh seafood and freshly made sushi, desserts and salads as well as our award-winning dim sum made fresh and steamed when requested or from the menu, we know your buffet dining experience is always first class! Experience our cooked-to-order buffet and see why we are a cut above the rest! Lunch 12–3pm everyday / Dinner 5.30pm–10pm Enjoy! Gold menu From £16 Silver menu From two for £20
During June and July we are offering our Gold menu 3 for the price of 2 only with favour magazine (please cut out this advertisment and bring along with you).
Bronze menu Individually priced from our la carte menu See our website for full terms and conditions
0117 945 0505 www.shanghainightsbristol.co.uk
Parking in the side street or NCP Rupert Street Car Park after 6pm and before midnight – Only £2.50. Please ensure this offer is still available before parking as we cannot be held responsible for any changes to parking charges.
AT BRISTOL
Food fun on menu for bristol
Excited top chefs are warming up their pots and pans as they prepare to set
tastebuds tingling at Foodies Festival at Bristol Harbourside on July 13, 14 and 15.
Kitchen experts, such as Saturday Kitchen star, Martin Blunos, Diego Da Rae, of Prosecco, and Romy Gill of Romy’s Kitchen, will cook signature dishes live in the Chef’s Theatre and explain how fans can prepare the same dishes at home. On the other side of the site, film fans can enjoy a unique culinary experience all of their own at the Food of Love Cinema, which will show the best food films of all time and serve the meals shown in those movies during the screenings.
Blockbusters such as Moonstruck (pizza) and Goodfellas (pasta) will be shown alongside independent movies such as Tampopo (sushi) at the pop-up movie house so audience members can taste what the stars taste. There’s also a city beach, where you can kick back in the sun while staff serving from traditional brightly painted beach huts will bring ice cream, tea – or something a bit stronger – straight to your deckchair. There’s a chance to brush up on your al fresco cookery skills as well, as classes will be run on how to produce perfect bangers, moist kebabs and beautiful burgers at beach barbecue masterclasses. For more information call:
0844 995 1111 Or visit:
www.foodiesfestival.com Three-day ticket £18 (concession £15). One-day ticket £10 (concession £8). VIP ticket price £38. Free entry for children aged 16 and under accompanied by an adult. Price includes entry into the Chef’s Theatre, Food Masterclass, Drinks Masterclass and Kids’ Cookery Theatres. Times: Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am–6pm 61
The Royal Oak AT GRETTON Matthew and Wendy Brown brought 20 years’ experience in hospitality to renovating the Royal Oak in Gretton and creating a relaxed, welcoming pub with great food. The Browns were delighted to bring in chef Rob Owen, previously at Monty’s in Cheltenham, who offers a seasonal menu with the emphasis on quality. The Vale of Evesham is on the doorstep, so vegetables are local; breads are from Hobbs House Bakery, while local lamb and Gloucester Old Spot come from nearby Martins Meats. The menu includes haddock and home-cut, twice-cooked chips; the ultimate beef burger; slow-cooked shoulder of Cotswold lamb; steamed mussels; kidneys on toast and homemade fishcakes. And, of course, traditional Sunday roasts. There’s a garden with magnificent views, tennis courts and a passing steam railway, making the Royal Oak a venue that’s hard to beat.
James Underdown – flavour’s 15-year-old budding chef – has been back in the kitchen this month to serve up another one of his mouthwatering treats.
the
teen chef June?! Where has half the year gone? Hopefully the sun will stay with us until the autumn so, for once, we’ll have a really nice hot and sunny summer! A few issues ago I talked about my catering exam but I never said how it went. It was almost perfect (in my eyes), it was just my meringues that let it down. Because of the time constraints I had to plate them up before they were fully done so, unfortunately, they hadn’t hardened. Now, meringues are one of my favourite dishes and I’ve never got them wrong before, so I’m just a little annoyed!
Eton Mess INGREDIENTS 3 large egg whites 175g of caster sugar Pinch of salt 600ml of double cream British summer fruits, eg. strawberries, raspberries, blueberries
Victoria Sponge INGREDIENTS 200g of butter 200g of caster sugar 4 eggs 1 vanilla pod (or a dash of extract) 200g of plain flour 2 tsp of baking powder Strawberry jam (or any type) 300ml of double cream Vanilla extract Icing sugar (optional)
This season it’s all about Britain so it seems right to do some classic dishes to serve up to family and friends, while having a picnic in the sun watching the Olympics! I’ve decided to go with Eton Mess and the well-loved Victoria sponge. Both dishes can be packed into wicker hampers and carried down to your local park to be enjoyed with loved ones. They are very seasonal and truly make the most of what little summer fruit this country produces. Eton Mess is also a great treat for the younger members of the family!
METHOD 1 Heat the oven to 140˚C and grease a baking tray. 2 Place the whites in a bowl with the salt and whisk for a minute at a low speed. Increase the speed and whisk until you have stiff white peaks. Continue to whisk but now add the sugar in a tablespoon at a time. Do this until all the sugar is gone and you should have stiff white glossy peaks 3 Now, at this stage I would normally say to pipe them but they are going to be whisked up again anyway. So, using a metal spoon place them on the baking tray. Bake for up to 35 minutes, check them constantly but don’t open the oven door because they’ll crack. 4 Grease two cake tins. To make the cake start by creaming the butter and sugar together until it becomes paler. Add 2 of the eggs, the vanilla and sieve in half the flour and whisk. Repeat this with the other 2 eggs, the other half of flour and add the baking powder. 5 Evenly divide the mixture between the 2 tins. Now, you may have to wait until
the meringues are done before you put them in the oven. When they are done take them out and leave to cool, boost the oven up to 180˚C and bake for about 30 minutes or until the cake is golden brown. 6 To continue with the Eton Mess you’ll need to whisk up the 600ml of cream until it’s thick. Put in some of the fruit and continue to whisk, this will give the cream a rippled effect. Put the rest of the fruit in, break the meringues up into chunks and toss them in. Mix it with a spoon. Eton Mess – done! 7 If the cake is done, take it out and leave to cool. For the filling whisk up the cream with the extract until it's thick. Only once the cake is cool can you put it on, otherwise it’ll melt, become runny and you’ll have a soggy cake. Once it’s cool, take one and spoon the jam on the top and spoon an equal amount on the bottom of the other cake. Put one on top of the other and you should have two distinct layers. You can dust it with icing sugar if you want or put any left over fruit in the cream or jam. Everything is now done! Have a tasty summer! 63
> flavour the xxxxxxx bell inn
The Bell Inn A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider.
A
dilemma that is often faced by British pub landlords and tenants is the dichotomy between maintaining and celebrating the history and heritage of a pub and being prepared to move with the times to respond to the foibles and needs of today’s consumers. For example, it’s all very well, and really quite effective, to market a pub as ‘an 18th-century coaching inn’, but the truth is there’s not a lot of call in 2012 for somewhere for coachmen to rest and drink mead while their horses are fed, watered and reshod. On the other hand, a dire fate often awaits those pubs that eschew their history. Replacing oak beams with steel joists and converting a piece of heritage to a ‘themed pub’ to reflect the fad of the day may seem like a good idea. All too frequently though such ventures fail and before you know it the pub has been converted to flats and therefore lost forever.
The Bell Inn 103 Walcot Street Bath BA1 5BW 01225 460426 www.thebellinnbath.co.uk 64
Just over a kilometre due north of Bath Spa railway station, however, is a pub that seems quite at home with its past while having little problem attracting a varied 21st-century clientele. The Bell Inn, in
the Walcot district of Bath, is one such. It actually was a coaching inn in the 1700s. From the outside it’s both nondescript and magnificent. Magnificent because of the beautiful stone construction. This is a three-storey building complete with original windows with inlaid ledges. An elaborate entrance harks back to the time when there was no such thing as just a front door. But nondescript because, well, this is Bath, and 300-year-old buildings are commonplace here. Just a quick glance at the rear of the crescent high above the rear of the pub makes clear how tough it is for a building to stand out in a city like this. But in many people’s eyes the Bell does stand out as a very individual and unique place to while away an hour or more. It’s a bustling place as welcoming to musicians as it is to real ale aficionados, tourists, students and dogs. There is a long main bar, showcasing a bewildering array of real ales. There were eight separate beers available when I visited, and another one had just gone. The beers are mostly supplied by local independent breweries and there is a broad mix to suit most palates. Butcombe Bitter and Bath Gem are, I guess, the best known of the
Raise a glass to... Butcombe Bitter (4%) Brewed in Somerset since 1978, this is a bitter whose taste lives up to the name: a truly bitter bitter. There’s a faint hint of lemon in there too, plus a good old whack of malt. Bath Gem (4.1%) From Warmley in Bristol. Caramel is the first word that springs to mind. It’s that mid-brown, almost amber colouring and malty aroma. It’s a really clever brew too, because as you drink it, it’s all fruit and hops and full of flavour, but then as you drain the last drop and utter a satisfied ‘aaah’, you sense a dryness in the mouth that sends you back for another. RCH Pitchfork (4.3%) This beer, from just outside Westonsuper-Mare in Somerset, has been a doyenne of beer festivals for some 25 or more years now. To all intents and purposes it’s a traditional best bitter, except it’s a little paler than you’d expect, and there is a definite citrus-fruit aroma there. There’s a yummy sweetness to it at first, which gives way to a more conventional bitter taste at the end. selection, but Abbey Ales’ Bellringer is the most local. Hop Back Summer Lightning, RCH Pitchfork and Otter Ale are all regional brews with a national reputation, while Stonehenge Ales’ Danish Dynamite is fast becoming a beer festival favourite. But as good as the beer is, what really strikes you about The Bell is the sheer vibrancy of the place: the constant hubbub of chatter, the people playing bar billiards or table football and as often as not the many and varied forms of live entertainment on offer. Whether it’s live bands (always free in the main bar), or the ‘Wednesday Menagerie’, in the ‘Love Lounge’ by the garden, described by the
pub as: “A weekly music, performance and interactive night curated by alternate members of The Menagerie Collective,” there always seems to be someone either setting up or playing. There are also ‘live’ DJ sets at weekends. Now I’m no musical expert, but any venue that offers, in the same month, Topshelf Jazz, the folk musings of Attila The Stockbroker, Blues, Country, Rock, Electro and Balkan Swing (no, I don’t know either) can pretty confidently call itself eclectic. There are also regular ‘open mic’ nights. Food is available lunchtimes and some evenings, and is of the pizza, tortilla wraps and dahl variety. ■
Otter Ale (4.5%) From down Honiton way in Devon. This is a mahogany brown premium ale which, for me, is genuinely malty. It’s true there are hints of fruit in both the aroma and taste, but this is secondary. The malt isn’t overwhelming though, and there is a pleasing bitterness towards the end. Hop Back Summer Lightning (5%) From just outside Salisbury in Wiltshire. Gosh this beer takes me back. One of the first summer beers I had the pleasure of tasting, but now a yearround brew. it’s the colour of droughtparched meadows in July with the smell of freshly harvested hops. But it has a proper ‘bitter’ taste to it and a dry aftertaste that transports me back to balmy mid-summer days in the 1990s. Abbey Ales Bellringer (4.2%) Bath’s own brewery produces this burnished gold ale that boasts just a hint of sweetness to balance pristine hoppy flavour. I reckon I can make out the faintest hint of lemon as I waft it before me, and I always marvel at how the bitterness hides itself until the very last moment.
65
The Kings Arms Hotel BY ROB MAGNUSON SMITH
A
s an unabashed American glutton, when I travel I require quality food in generous portions, an extensive wine and cocktail menu, and a big bed. In England, a country known for its modesty and martyrs, I don’t always come home satisfied – but at The Kings Arms in Christchurch, I discovered friendly staff, a banquet of the highest order, and a luxuriously appointed room. By the time I left, I felt like Henry VIII. I knew I was in the right place as soon as I arrived. The Georgian hotel is situated across the street from a tea garden and bowling green with manicured lawns, palm trees and bowlers in white uniforms. Past the stone ruins of the Priory (thus the name Christchurch), the Avon meanders to its confluence with the Stour under arched bridges draped in willows. At the hotel lobby my companion and I were diverted to the Bar. It had been a warm day, so we ordered Hendrick’s gin and tonics in chilled glasses with wedges of cucumber. Sufficiently refreshed, we headed upstairs to the room. I must confess, I gasped. The enormous bed in its scalloped frame dominated the carpeted, high-ceilinged room. There was a plush sofa, glass coffee table, vanity table and chair and dimmed spotlights on runner boards. Our bathroom offered a deep tub and tastefully modern appointments. Shuttered double windows opened onto a balcony with views of the bowling green and Priory. On the coffee table a welcome basket greeted us – champagne on ice, an assortment of local cheeses and breads, homemade
66
hummus, fresh scones, clotted cream and chocolates. (The basket came from Heartizans, a family-run deli just steps away.) My companion thought we might need to work off our ‘welcome snack,’ so we decided to use the spa at The Kings Arms’ sister hotel. After a short walk past sailboats and an assortment of inviting pubs, we arrived at the Christchurch Harbour Hotel and Spa. Armed with robes and slippers, we made our way to the pool. Facilities included sauna, steam and salt rooms. I spent most of the time soaking in the Jacuzzi and sweating off the champagne. After all that exercise I needed to eat. “Don’t worry, we’ll visit one of the pubs later,” my companion reassured me as we walked back for dinner. Little did I know we’d sit down for a full three hours. Designed by Alex Aiken and Head Chef Ian Gibbs, The Kings Restaurant highlights fresh, locally sourced fish and New Forest game. I suggest you get there right away before word gets out and you won’t be able to score a table. The clientele ranged from high society wives to local fishermen. This restaurant has an open, relaxed feel, with flickering candles in suspended glass boxes. Open windows offer light breezes coming off the Avon. We started with smoked Dorset trout, served on a bed of horseradish potatoes with sprigs of fresh watercress. Then we tried asparagus and poached egg, topped with Parmesan shavings. We washed our starters down with a Sauvignon Blanc
out of Marlborough, New Zealand, a delicious Nobilo with top notes of citrus and a satisfying resin bite. Our main arrived – a two-person mixed fish grill of sea bream, sole, Poole Bay mussels and clams, arrayed on a gigantic olive board garnished with roasted tomatoes and wedges of lemon and lime. I couldn’t resist ordering a second olive board of meat for myself – slow-roasted shoulder of lamb, plus double rib-eye from the kitchen’s Josper charcoal grill. The ribeye came out pink and juicy, and ringed with plenty of fat. With my Sipsmith gin martini, I was in heaven. “We should have dessert,” my companion said. I looked at her like she was insane – before finding myself tucking into a phenomenal rhubarb and custard tart. The tart was shaped like a tower, with an elegant biscuit crust, rich custard cream, warm rhubarb, ginger ice cream and topped with an intricate latticework of caramelised sugar. I paired this masterpiece with a glass of port, cried mercy and limped upstairs to bed. The Kings Arms in Christchurch is my new favourite destination, and I’ll be heading back next time I want to be treated like royalty.
The Kings Arms Hotel 18 Castle Street Christchurch Dorset BH23 1DT 01202 588933 www.thekings-christchurch.co.uk
I suggest you get there right away before word gets out and you won’t be able to score a table. The clientele ranged from high society wives to local fishermen.
Tucked away behind the Bristol Hippdrome and Colston Hall at 12 Denmark Street, Harveys Cellars is an upmarket tapas restaurant bar set in stylish surroundings. Famous previously as the birthplace of Harveys Bristol Cream in the 1800s these intriguing cellars retain many reminders of its wine and sherry heritage. Featuring background live music at the weekends and with an art gallery to browse through in the foyer, Harveys Cellars is perfect for pre or post theatre tapas, nibbles and cocktails. If you are looking for a unique and distinct destination then look no further as these labyrinth-like cellars offer visitors an inimitable experience from beginning to end. The venue comprises of several individual spaces all available to hire separately or the cellars can be taken as a whole with group tapas menus
www.harveyscellars.co.uk
0117 929 4812 12 Denmark Street, Bristol BS1 5DQ
specifically tailored to meet customers’ needs. If you are looking for something a little different then try one of their specially designed sherry flight menus where the tapas dishes have been designed to complement the sherries and wines on offer and this runs alongside their fresh summer menu. Venture down the stairs into these medieval cellars, past the beautiful bank of Bristol Blue Glass bottles and illuminated aged oak sherry barrel and Harveys Cellars promises you a visit that you will want to repeat.
> flavour sian blunos
Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child. Well I think we have had a few days that resemble summer, however, whatever the weather we are always looking for new ideas for light meals and healthy snacks or just something a little different to temp our little ones. We all are busy rushing around after the kids but with a little thought we can create something exciting and enjoyable to eat, making sure we can slip in those important proteins, carbohydrates vitamins and minerals to ensure optimum health. The important thing is for it to look appealing and fun to eat as well as being nutritious; snacks or something different to offer for a kid’s party, or if the sun is shining, a family barbecue. Quick and easy to make dips and spreads, ideal for healthy sandwich fillings or great for dipping into are very popular as kids love finger food and crunchy crudités. Experiment with new breads – there are so many varieties available to try – like rye, oat, tomato and olive. Bagels, pitta bread, wraps and croissants all make a lovely change and are ideal for dipping. If you have a bit more time you can make your own little healthy burgers, tuna and sweet corn cakes or vegetable kebabs to go with the dips. But let’s just hope we get lots of sunshine so we can enjoy some outdoor eating. The kids love that!
KNOW YOUR
DIPS
PEA AND MINT DIP This is a fantastic combination – the freshness of the mint and the vibrant colour of the peas. You can use it as a dip, or spread it on fresh crusty bread. Delicious! INGREDIENTS 8oz/225g defrosted peas 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 dessertspoon chopped mint Juice ½ lemon 1 tsp sugar 4oz/100g cream cheese 1 small spring onion, chopped Salt and pepper to taste
Simply blend all the ingredients together and serve!
SMOKED MACKEREL PATE/SPREAD INGREDIENTS 1packet smoked mackerel fillets (remove skin) 2 tsp horseradish sauce 1 medium spring onion (washed and sliced)
½ sweet Ramiro pepper (deseeded) 1 clove of garlic 1 carton cottage cheese 250g Black pepper to taste Squeeze of lemon juice
Again, blitz and season to taste!
Tzatziki INGREDIENTS 1 cucumber, peeled Salt for soaking 8oz/225g thick plain yoghurt 1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 dessertspoon of chopped dill Pepper to taste METHOD 1 Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Grate into a non-reactive colander and sprinkle with salt and leave for 45 minutes. 2 Mix the yoghurt, garlic, dill and pepper in a bowl. Rinse the cucumber and squeeze it dry in a tea towel. Add to the yoghurt mix, stir and leave overnight in the fridge.
COOKING FOR COCO Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious. To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com 69
My queue to go elsewhere
A loud sigh and a dirty look are not always enough to get Nick Harman a place at the top table...
Hands up who likes to queue. Who likes standing in line, often in the pouring rain, while the bouncer at the club door decides who’s got the look that will get them into paradise and who has the lack of look that gets them pushed back into the night? Or how about at Heathrow or Bristol Airport? The line weaving endlessly across the arrivals area, controlled by a zig-zag loom of barriers, and jammed full of people in various states of jet lag, tiredness, enervation and ennui, all waiting to be processed by just three open desks when there’s supposed to be around 20. We Brits are supposed to enjoy queueing of course, some say we even invented it. We still try and form an orderly queue for buses, despite the fact that as soon as the bus finally arrives others simply shove in front of us. We tut and fall back, resorting to the standard British criticism of a loud sigh and a dirty look.
Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year. 70
You can see queues outside many restaurants these days; zombies shuffling slowly forward for their chance to stuff down their food as fast as they reasonably can, wipe their mouths and then quickly leave so that someone else can have their table. Behaviour once restricted to burger chains and kebab houses is now becoming de rigueur. Some of these places are, ironically enough, also serving burgers although of the superior, middle-class type. What they all mostly have in
common is a powerful social media grooming programme and the fact that you can eat there without cutlery. This and the no reservation policy excites the feeding frenzy in cities desperately full of followers and no leaders. Of course this doesn’t apply to the really big restaurants, the Michelins and the ‘best-inshow’ boys. Here the queue is called a ‘waiting list’. You call up and get told a slot may just open this century and you will be advised when the restaurant will be prepared to graciously accept your money. It’s a bit frustrating but at least you aren’t standing outside in the rain while you wait. Plus once your booking is accepted you know that you’ll be actually seated at the appointed date and hour and won’t be encouraged to get the hell out after dessert while drinking your coffee standing up in a half crouch. Waiting list or queue, both signify that a place is popular for some reason; either ‘Restaurant of the Week’ on Twitter or, for the older generation, popular from critics’ reviews. The waiting lists become the stuff of legend. Personally I won’t join a queue and I’m not enthralled at massaging a restaurant’s ego by going on a waiting list either. Instead I’ll try and find somewhere great that isn’t in the business of making punters beg or stand in line. That kind of place is out there, you just have to do your own looking and not be led by fashion or fad. And then keep it to yourself.