Flavour Magazine August 2010

flavour for people who love local food

Bristol, Bath & South West | Issue 30 | August 2010

ÂŁ3 (Where sold)

WIN! Dinner, bed and breakfast at the Crowne Plaza Hotel!

Secret suppers A sneaky peek at a thriving underground dining scene

RISE AND SHINE

Breakfast like a King around Bristol and Bath

www.flavourmagazine.com

VALENTINE WARNER Golden nuggets from a very quirky cook

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com

34

Editorial Assistant: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Kate Gardner Email: kate@flavourmagazine.com

Welcome to the August issue of flavour!

Debbie Wylde Email: debbie@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker Contributors: Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock, Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.

Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

24

Please send any comments or suggestions to the publisher at the above address.

For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print.

We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients.

We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship.

We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed.

For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions.

All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old.

Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability.

Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

contents 6

In Season Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash bring you the best of the season's produce

11 WIN! A stay at The Crowne Plaza Hotel!

This month might see even our cabinet ministers take their annual leave and head for the sun, but here at flavour HQ we’ve never been busier!

As this month’s kitchen gardener will confirm on PAGE 44, August is one of the most exciting times of year on the fruit and vegetable plot. And if all life springs from the soil, the knock-on effect in the foodie world is a pleasure to behold. Rainbow coloured market stalls are overflowing with seasonal produce, providing the eager cook with endless inspiration for their weekly menus. If you love sunshine food just as much as we do, check out the brand new recipes from Neven Maguire on PAGE 33 – the perfect remedy for post-holiday blues.

We're absolutely thrilled to announce that we'll be producing this year's official Organic Food Festival Guide so keep an eye out for your free supplement in next month's issue, which will be packed with everything you need to know about Europe's largest event of its kind. But if you really can't wait that long, turn to PAGE 38 for a taster of what's in store.

We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we've enjoyed making it.

12 Secret Suppers A sneaky peek at a thriving underground dining scene 16 Rise and Shine Breakfast like a King around Bristol and Bath 24 Valentine Warner Golden nuggets from a very quirky cook

Happy Eating!

Holly Aurelius-Haddock

> flavour

news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month

ORGANIC FOOD FESTIVAL This year's Organic Food Festival celebrates its10th anniversary at Bristol's Harbourside on 11 & 12 September 2010. The festival, which is Europe's biggest celebration of all things organic, provides an opportunity for visitors to taste the best food and meet leading producers from across the UK. Visitors can expect a weekend of gastronomic delights provided by over 150 of T the very best organic U O D FIN ON producers.

MORE 8!

PAGE 3

At this year's festival, as well as a host of celebrity chefs sharing culinary wisdom in the Cookery Demo Tent, an expected 20,000 visitors will be able to discover delicious food and drink,

luxurious skincare, leading organic fashion labels, organic textiles and home design as well as organic gardening.

At the heart of the 2010 festival will be The Food Market where visitors can come and look, taste and buy from stalls offering some of the best organic produce you can find. From organic pork pies, to organic ice cream, it will be a food lover's heaven.

Promising to be an entertaining familyfriendly outing, this much-loved festival is perfect for everyone.

Nominations are now open for the BBC Radio 4 Food and Farming Awards. The awards search for the best in food and farming and are a great way to highlight the people in your area who are upholding the region’s reputation for truly great produce.

To nominate simply visit the awards website: www.bbc.co.uk/radio4

WINNERS

4

The UK’s first US-style barbeque competition and food show made its way to the Bristol Harbourside in July. Two-tonnes of charcoal and wood was burnt by the 10 barbecue teams and exhibitors, with The Cowshed Bar and Grill taking the crown as the “Napoleon King of the Grill” competition.

The team won a place in the BBQ World Championships in Memphis next May to represent the UK where the top prize is $100,000 and an all expenses trip for the whole team.

www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk

NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE FOODIES

Congratulations to Caroline Parfitt from Clevedon who has won a copy of veggie cookbook Yum!

THE COWSHED

Congratulations to Steve Peters from Cotham who has won a Chandos Deli hamper worth £100!

THE SPA AT HOMEWOOD PARK As the sun shines down on the beautiful Limpley Stoke Valley and across its glorious outdoor swimming pool, Homewood Park's new spa is said to be off to a swimming start.

Homewood’s General Manager Denis Verrier said “I couldn’t be more pleased with the public response to the spa. We welcomed over 150 people to our open day last month and the feedback has been brilliant. I’m extremely proud of my team who’ve worked tirelessly to ensure that we opened on time.” www.homewoodpark.co.uk

> flavour

news

LOVE COOKING GREAT TASTE AWARDS 2010 Results have recently been announced for this year’s prestigious Great Taste Awards, and here are a few of our favourite local winners…

Absolutely Cakes were delighted to have scooped a three star gold for their St. Clement's orange and lemon sponge and a one star gold for their Carrot and Pecan cake. www.absolutelycakes.com Castellano’s received an impressive three star gold awards for its dry cured back bacon, pancetta and coppa. Vincent Castellano can be found selling a mouthwatering selection of artisan charcuterie, all of which is prepared by Vincent himself at his shop in Fishponds. www.castellanos.co.uk Jess’ Ladies Milk, took home two gold

awards, both one star for their organic whole milk and their semi skimmed milk.

Her ladies should be very proud. www.theladiesorganicmilk.co.uk

A brand new innovative cooking event, Love Cooking, is to arrive in Bristol on 5th October at The Colston Hall.

Featuring one-hour live presentations from some of the UK’s top celebrity chefs cooking live on stage, this show is the ultimate culinary concert.

Individual tickets are priced at £20 or see 2 chefs for £30. Ticket prices include a Love Cooking recipe book featuring 60 recipes from the show.

Now regarded as the equivalent of a Michelin star for specialty food and drink producers, The Great Taste Awards are in their 14th year of judging and to reach two or three star status, 20 judges must agree that the product has reached 'absolute perfection’.

So a big pat on the back for our local producers – you will find them beaming with pride at The Bristol Farmers’ Market every Wednesday. www.greattasteawards.co.uk

HAPPY AS PIGS IN MUD According to new research carried out by Newcastle University, pigs are capable of feeling human emotions. These curly tailed cuties can feel optimistic or pessimistic depending on how they are treated. Kept in luxurious surrounding, pigs are more likely to respond positively to new experiences than those kept in less stimulating pens. Last year published research proved that cows that were given a name and treated as individuals produced more milk than unnamed cattle. It is hoped that this is a step in the right direction to improving animal welfare.

SUMMER EVENINGS AT THE SECOND FLOOR What better way to spend an evening than a sunset dinner bathed in the golden glow of Harvey Nichols Second Floor Restaurant, watching the city below you?

Exclusively for the summer months, enjoy a three course set menu starting with a complimentary Second Floor Bellini for £15 per person. Even amuses bouches and petit fours are included!

Available Tuesday to Friday evenings from 6 July - 30 September.

For more information or to make a reservation call 0117 9168898 or email reception.bristol@harveynichols.com

TICKET GIVEAWAY! Love Cooking festival are giving away a pair of tickets to each of the Bristol events. So for your chance to see James Martin, Gary Rhodes, Rachel Allen, Ainsley Harriott, Gino D’Acampo, Valentine Warner and Thomasina Miers then email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine, or write to us at the usual address. Good luck! www.lovecookingfestival.com

5

> flavour

in season

>Blackberries

BLACKBERRY, APPLE AND ROSEMARY JELLY Makes approx 2x500g jars Remove the stalks from 500g washed cooking apples and roughly chop including the apple peel and core. Place in a pan with ¼ litre of water, 1 cinnamon stick, 500g blackberries and 2 large sprigs of rosemary. Stir to the boil and simmer until fruits are soft and mushy. Poor the contents of the pan into a jelly bag and allow the juice to drip through without help overnight. Measure the liquid that has dripped through and place it in a pan.

Gently bring the liquid to the boil and add 430g of sugar for every ½ litre of liquid, mixing in the sugar as the liquid boils. Boil rapidly for 10-12 minutes until setting point is reached; skim the surface of the jelly to remove any scum and pour into jars, seal immediately.

Wonderfully juicy, blackberries should be a firm favourite in your kitchen throughout the autumn. They are a purple-black berry with a flavour ranging from sweet and juicy larger berries to more tart smaller berries.

One of my favourite childhood recipes was that of blackberry and apple crumble which makes use of two abundant fruits at the time of year. If possible, pick them rather than buy them as they do not store that well. If you are buying in punnets make sure the berries are plump and shiny and not squashed. If you have picked them place them on kitchen paper on a plate in the fridge so that they don’t get crushed.

However, they are best eaten right away!

At their best >Tomatoes Tomatoes come in all different shapes, sizes and colours ranging from the giant red beefsteak to the tiny cherry tomatoes.

They are sweet and tangy but although classed as a fruit, they work best with savoury ingredients in cooking. British tomatoes are available from June through to October and are fairly easy to grow at home. Look for firm, bright tomatoes that have their characteristic fragrant smell and the leafy tops to the fruit are also a good sign of freshness. The riper the tomato the better and sweeter the taste so be sure to look for the freshest, ripest ones. Eating tomatoes cold can mute their flavour so either eat right away or take out of the fridge about half an hour before you eat them to make sure you get all the great taste!

6

SURF CLAMS WITH HERB AND TOMATO SALSA Serves 4 Blanch 5 plum tomatoes in boiling water and refresh in ice water, peel, remove the seeds and cut into small dice. Place in a bowl with 1 teaspoon of chopped herbs, including dill, parsley, tarragon and coriander. Add 2 spring onions and refrigerate. Place 150ml white wine in a sauce pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Add 40 large surf clams, cover with a lid and cook until opened. While still hot remove the empty half shells and discard. To serve mix 50ml of olive oil and 150ml of champagne vinegar through the tomatoes, plate the clams and spoon a little salsa in each.

> flavour

>Peaches Peaches really are some of the sweetest, juiciest and most fragrant of all the soft fruit. Along with nectarines, peaches have to be picked ripe as they do not ripen that well afterwards. They can come in different shapes and colours but the most common are tennis ball-sized yellowy-red varieties with a velvety surface. They are best eaten on their own but can also be used in salads with a salty blue cheese or in a classic peach cobbler pudding. The ripest peaches will be fairly firm but will yield when squeezed gently. Avoid hard peaches or ones that are bruised or very soft. They are best eaten as soon as they are ripe but will store in a fridge for a day or two.

xxxxxxx

MEAD AND SAFFRON POACHED PEACHES Serves 4 Put Âź pt of mead, Âź pt of water and 400g sugar into a pan, bring to a simmer and add 1 star anise, the zest and juice from 1 lime and a large pinch of finely chopped saffron strands, simmer for 20 minutes. Meantime blanch 6 yellow peaches in boiling water, refresh in ice water and remove the skins. Cut the peaches in half and gently remove the stones. After the syrup has infused put in the peaches and simmer until just cooked and allow the peaches to cool in the liquid. Serve chilled with ice-cream or cream.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.

Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right now >Fennel Fennel is a very delicately flavoured perennial herb but this herb is also cherished for its delicious bulb and fragrant seeds. The bulb is full of flavour and its anise-laced scent work superbly raw in fresh salads and cooked with fish such as bass and bream. The foliage of the plant is most commonly used as a herb and has the same flavours as the bulb and is very similar in appearance to that of dill.

It can also be used in dressings with olive oil, salt and pepper. Fennel is in season from May to October and is best when it is firm and crisp with no blemishes or tinges of brown on the bulb. The bulbs keep well in a fridge for up to a week.

FENNEL, BUTTON MUSHROOM AND GREEN BEAN SALAD Serves 4 Finely slice 2 heads of fennel, 1 red onion and 150g of washed and peeled button mushrooms and place in a bowl. Blanch 300g of green beans in boiling water, refresh in ice water and cut into 2 cm pieces, pat them dry then add them to the other vegetables. Add a small bunch of watercress leaves discarding the stalks, and 1 chilli. Gently toss the salad in the juice of 1 lemon and 25ml of olive oil seasoning with rock salt. (Great with fish.)

7

> flavour

fab foodie reads

fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

HEDGEROW RIVER COTTAGE HANDBOOK NO. 7 JOHN WRIGHT

WILD GARLIC, GOOSEBERRIES AND ME DENIS COTTER

Here at flavour we just love the River Cottage Handbook Series and as we have already featured Sea Fishing by Nick Fisher, we just couldn’t let this new addition to the collection slip through the net. Here, John Wright explores the culinary delights of British hedgerows, moors, meadows and woods. Informative and witty, John Wright reveals how to spot free and delicious ingredients as well as how to prepare and cook them. John gives sufficient warning on how to look out for poisonous varieties as well as any suspicious look-alikes. This book is an invaluable tool for household reference as well as a necessity to have by your side for every trip into the countryside.

Wild Garlic was a result of world-renowned vegetarian chef Dennis Cotter and his ambition to re-connect people back to food and the land. Dennis reveals how to search for delicious mushrooms, wild greens and sloes, how to cook asparagus and take on artichoke with attitude. Dennis drags us into muddy fields and introduces us to the growers of the best produce imaginable. After a read of this very unique recipe book, it would be hard to not get those wellies out and start your own vegetarian cooking experience.

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING FAVOURITE CAKES, BAKES & CUPCAKES.

LEVI ROOTS FOOD FOR FRIENDS: 100 SIMPLE DISHES FOR EVERY OCCASION LEVI ROOTS

Bloomsbury Publishing £14.99

Collins and Brown £14.99

From cupcakes and cookies, to tarts and traybakes, there is a sweet treat for everyone in this yummy new cookbook from Good Housekeeping. Every recipe is clear and easy to follow. Each delicious recipe has been triple-tried and tested and are guaranteed to work first time, every time. So don’t worry, those cookies will not come out as mini rock forms, the sponge won’t go stale within the hour and the icing will not be lumpy!

Get your wooden spoons at the ready.

Collins £14.99

Published by Mitchell Beazely – Octopus Publishing £18.99

Levi Roots, the man who famously slayed the dragons and whipped the nation into a Caribbean frenzy with his spicy sauces, is back with another fab book to tickle our taste buds. In this book, our favourite Caribbean star is showing us how to cook for our friends and loved ones by bringing a Caribbean twist to the dinner table. Levi takes some of the nation’s favourites and shows us how to spice it up in easy steps. Pork chops are transformed into pork chops calypso and a classic dessert is remodelled into mango, banana and passion fruit trifle. Let’s hope our favourite reggae reggae sauce makes an appearance…

9

> flavour

loves...

Fabulous Vodka

Sue Dann Candles

The Fabulous Vodka Company develop and produce some of the finest alcoholic drinks around.

Fabulous Vodka only use the purest spirits blended or distilled with the finest natural ingredients, resulting in the smoothest, most delicious drinks suitable for drinking neat, over ice, in a cocktail, or as an ingredient in delicious food dishes. Caralicious is a smooth sweet blend of natural caramel with the finest vodka. Developed over a period of 10 months it has proven a real hit with the discerning liqueur drinker!

Inspired by the English countryside, these candles are the perfect choice for any harmonious home.

Everything from fragrance blending to hand pouring is done in the workshops in Wiltshire. Making careful and natural ingredient choices ensures sustainability and excellence. Choose from village perfumes, a reflection of life in the country, manor fragrances which inspire sophistication and elegance and walled garden perfumes which create a touch of the botanical indoors. £20 each.

T: 01225 463 648 W: www.suedanninteriors.com

T: 07902 209532 W: www.fabulousvodka.co.uk

flavour THIS MONTH’S MUST DO, BUY & SEE...

s e oL v Chiltern’s Rapeseed Oil

Summer Wraps

Rapeseed is fast growing into our favourite alternative to olive oil and Chiltern’s cold pressed extra-virgin rapeseed oil is a prime example as to why. With 10 times more Omega 3 than traditional olive oil, as well as under half the saturated fat content there's no other oil we’d prefer to cook with! On offer is a range of six delicious infused oils including, basil, thyme, garlic, chilli, lemon and oak smoked starting from £3.85 a bottle.

Perfect for picnics, packed lunches and barbecues, Discovery Wrapbreads make a great alternative to sandwiches and can be filled with just about anything – from hummus and salad to cream cheese and smoked salmon – for some delicious alfresco finger food. Choose from white, white plus, multiseed or wholemeal.

T: 0800 018 0002 W: www.wrapbread.com

Grasse Giftshop Keep your champagne or wine nicely chilled with this stylish cooler made from aluminum (£69), and round the eco chic look off with a set of handmade recycled champagne glasses made in Valencia.

Both are a lovely addition to your dining table and a beautiful gift idea. £7.95 each or set of four for £30.

T: 01225 444260 W: www.grasse.me.uk

T: 01442 828478 W: www.pemeadandsons.co.uk

> flavour

loves...

Upton Smokery Based in the rolling Cotswolds, Upton Smokery specialises in smoking meat, game and fish of the highest quality. What started five years ago on a micro scale, has grown to a small-medium sized business supplying high quality smoked food to businesses and private customers throughout the Cotswold area and beyond. Upton Smokery does not use any artificial flavourings or colourings in the process, just pure salt, water, natural beech and oak smoke.

Teapigs

T: 01451 844744 W: www.uptonsmokery.co.uk

Teapigs English Breakfast is their signature blend. Far from ordinary, it’s a skilful balancing act between three glorious teas: a gutsy Assam, a mellow little Ceylon and a powerful newcomer from Rwanda. This flavour filled tea is a far cry from the regular British brew.

Although we are supposed to be a nation of black tea drinkers there are some very adventurous tea lovers out there. For those very people teapigs have blended pure liquorice root with whole peppermint leaves to create a naturally sweet and refreshing drink that is irresistibly moreish. This blend is just lovely brewed cold in a jug with lots of ice as well as brewed hot. With less than 3 calories per cup this is the perfect alternative to a cake! Available nationwide at delis or online.

T: 020 8568 8989 W: www.teapigs.co.uk

Feed Your Imagination Handmade using the finest organic Belgian chocolate and blended with essential oils, these organic treats promise to boost and rejuvenate from within. ‘Beautiful’ was awarded Gold at The Great Taste Awards and promotes a positive outlook. You never have to feel guilty about a chocolate indulgence again…

T: 0845 602 6862 W: www.feeding-your-imagination.co.uk

Bramley and Gage 6 O’Clock Gin An award-winning tipple created by Michael Kain who’s achieved balance, poise and precision in equal measure.

With hints of Juniper as well as six other botanicals, orange peel and elderflower, the resulting clean, smooth and richly flavoured gin makes it a must have for any drinks cabinet. £15.99 per bottle.

T: 01454 418046 W: www.bramleyandgage.co.uk

WIN! AN OVERNIGHT STAY FOR TWO AT THE CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL IN MARLOW! The luxurious Crowne Plaza Hotel is offering one lucky flavour reader the chance to win an overnight stay for two people, dinner for two in the hotel's restaurant, use of the spa as well as VIP tickets to both days of the Marlow Food Festival!

For your chance of winning email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine, or write to us at the usual address. Good luck!

11

> flavour

secret suppers

Secret Suppers Exciting though the emerging trend of secret supper clubs may be for the adventurous epicurean, it seems the dearly departed Egon Ronay was right in proclaiming that in the world of food, there really is nothing new under the sun...

According to a report on Radio Four’s Food Programme last month, one of the first unconventional dining clubs dates back as far as 1934, when a group of young progressive thinkers established The Half Hundred Club. Located in London’s Isokon building, the club was part of a larger (partly political) agenda to promote a more communal way of living. Members were limited to 25 and each could bring along a guest, possessing ‘no religious or other taboos or unsociable characteristics which may impede conversation’.

Here was a group of people – the country’s first TV chef Phillip Holborn and The Good Food Guide’s creator Raymond Postgate among them – who believed that the way to change a deeply divided British society was to make good food and drink available to all, some of the best conversation and ideas being forged around the dinner table.

Headed up by iconic designer Jack Pritchard and wife Molly, the group set out to challenge the traditional approach and formality to mealtimes, famously eating an antelope at an impromptu dinner held in London Zoo. Underpinning the entire concept of The Half Hundred Club however, was the aim to offer food that was ‘suitable for the epicure of modest means’, a requirement which Louise Barnard (pictured far right), founder of the Bristol based Secret Service Supper Club, thinks is just as important to the modern equivalents springing up all over the country: “Nowadays people want more 12

from dining out, whether that’s an element of unpredictability, the chance to meet new people, or better value for money – we can give them all of those things.”

Taking the form of guerrilla get togethers that are pre-booked by people without any knowledge of where, what or with whom they’ll be eating, secret supper clubs are becoming increasingly popular for those seeking something out of the norm. “It’s not a money-making venture in the same way

Nowadays people want more from dining out, whether that’s an element of unpredictability, the chance to meet new people, or better value for money.

> flavour

open doors, she decided instead to close them: “The aim of setting up a secret supper club was to create a buzz and build a reputation which we’re continuing to do all the time – diners often ask to come back and volunteer at the next event because they enjoy their experience so much!” She continues: “What really keeps us going is hearing how positive people are about the whole experience we give them, that we’re doing something that’s both original and appreciated.”

that restaurants are,” says Louise, “which means we’ll still provide the same standards of food, just without the price tag.” A fair statement with 5 courses plus canapés and coffee on offer for £25.

Having trained as a chef and practiced her skills everywhere from Taiwan to Monaco, Louise returned to Bristol 18 months ago to continue her passion for cooking a little closer to home. Yet unable to name drop well-known UK restaurants as a means to

With plans in the pipeline for collaboration with circus acts and Halloween suppers held in a crypt, pushing boundaries is as much a feature of secret supper clubs as it was 70 years ago, and this intriguing phenomenon threatens to put overpriced, soulless restaurants very much in perspective...�

To find out more about the Secret Service Supper Club, look them up on Facebook and Twitter (just be sure to keep it to yourself!)

secret suppers

A SNEAKY PEEK AT A

Typical Menu...

Canapés served with elderflow er, ginger and lemongrass cocktails Mini salmon and cucumber summer rolls Jerusalem artichoke, bacon and walnut pesto crostini Rocket, potato and lemon soup with homemade smoked garlic foca ccia Seared free-range duck breast, pear slices and radicchio salad Trout roasted with cherry tom atoes and fennel Organic, unpasteurised Double Gloucester and chutney Chocolate and panettone tiram isu Coffee 13

Sponsored by

11-12 September 2010 Bristol Harbourside

Just as nature intended #ELEBRATING YEARS AS %UROPE S LARGEST ORGANIC EVENT

This year’s Organic Food Festival offers families and food lovers more than ever before... /VER /RGANIC &OOD 0RODUCERS s #ELEBRITY #HEF $EMOS s ,IVE "ANDS s ,IVESTOCK s +IDS 4ASTE %XPERIENCE s 'ORGEOUS (EALTH AND "EAUTY 0RODUCTS s /RGANIC 'ARDENING s &ABULOUS &ASHION AND 4EXTILES Tickets only £5 Children and Soil Association members go FREE!

Visit www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk for more information

> flavour

GOING RETRO

columnist martin blunos

This month Martin Blunos steps back in time to bring back some old family favourites which never fail to bring a smile to our faces…

On my forthcoming agenda I will be doing a couple of demos for the Vintage at Goodwood Festival. It’s a big event tracing everything from fashion and music to lifestyle. The periods covered are the 1940s right through to the noughties. I am down to do a couple of home style classics from the 1950s that were (apparently) all the rage back then; rice pudding and goulash. I can’t fathom why I’ve been asked to represent the ‘50s – I must be showing my age. Maybe the strawberry blonde Viking is turning into a wheezing silver fox.

This classic period was obviously well before my time (well okay, only just before) but those classics have stood the test of time and would sit happily on any dinner table now and, saying that, in any decade previous. Just goes to show that family favourites prevail.

The set and I will be dressed from the period. I can’t wait, I might go the whole hog and Brylcreem my hair into a neat centre parting, wax my tash and wear a monocle. Either way, it’ll be fun to go retro, making and presenting rice pudding and goulash with my own twist.

As a chef, it is presumptuous of me to assume that at home everybody knows how to cook these ‘classic’ dishes, with the recipes being handed down from mother to daughter. But perhaps that’s just not the case. It has got me thinking that for next year’s series of food festivals, I’ll go retro. So watch out in 2011 for the likes of prawn cocktail, chicken in a basket and Black Forest gateau – ah the good old days when life was peachy!

RICE PUDDING Ingredients 110g / 4oz short-grain pudding rice 450ml / ¾ pint single cream 450ml / ¾ pint full-fat milk 55g / 2oz caster sugar freshly grated nutmeg 1 vanilla pod 25g / 1oz unsalted butter Pinch of salt Strawberry jam to serve Method 1 Preheat the oven to 150°C / 300°F / Gas 2 (10 degrees less for a fan oven) and grease a 1.5 litre/2½ pint ovenproof dish with a little butter.

2 Rinse the rice under cold water and place in the ovenproof dish. Place the cream, milk, caster sugar and a generous grating of nutmeg in a medium saucepan. Scrape in the seeds of the

vanilla pod and the pinch of salt. Heat gently until almost simmering, then remove from the heat and pour over the rice, stirring well.

3 Dot the butter over the top and place in the oven for 1½ hours, stirring after the first 30 minutes. If the pudding still seems very runny, return to the oven, checking every 10 minutes, until it is loosely creamy but not runny. The cooking time will vary, depending on the type and depth of dish you use.

4 When the pudding is golden brown on top and has a soft, creamy texture, remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10/12 minutes before serving. (It is like lava when straight from the oven so beware) 5 After fighting with guests/family over who’s going to get the skin (the best bit) serve with a generous dollop of strawberry jam.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

15

> flavour

rise and shine

! e n i h S & e s i R Le Parisien

Lockside Lockside is Bristol’s waterfront café offering casual dining on the edge of the Avon Gorge, with spectacular views of the Clifton Suspension Bridge. A perfect start to any morning can be found with the early bird breakfast; a delicious homemade cooked breakfast including all the tea and toast you can squeeze in. Other dishes include smoked salmon and rocket on a toasted bagel as well as scrambled eggs with griddled ham. Quality is of paramount importance to the Lockside, cooking the freshest produce to very high standards.

T: 01179 255800

W: www.lockside.net

Riverside

16

Placed in the heart of Bath is a little piece of Paris. Inspired by the Parisian Cafes of old, the beautiful terrace allows you to enjoy your morning coffee in the sun. There is an extensive breakfast menu all freshly cooked to order as well as a mouthwatering selection of freshly baked pastries, croissants and teacakes, and of course delicious coffee, teas and freshly squeezed orange juice.

Open for lunch and afternoon tea and evenings for drinks and snacks with live music at the weekends.

T: 01225 447147 W: www.leparisien.co.uk

Café Retreat

A firm favourite with Bathonians and visitors alike, the Riverside is tucked under Pulteney Bridge with spectacular views of one of Bath's most famous landmarks, Pulteney Weir. Open seven days a week, they pride themselves on their winning combination of friendly service, relaxed atmosphere, sumptuous food and glorious views. The delicious breakfast menu (served 9.00am-11.30am daily, from 8.00 am Saturday and Sundays) includes dishes such as smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels, American pancakes with bacon and Canadian maple syrup as well as the classic Riverside breakfast.

Situated next to the Water Tower, Café Retreat offers the most splendid views of the Downs whilst enjoying a leisurely drink and tasty snack. All the food is freshly prepared from scratch, using only the finest local produce. With a wide selection of breakfast treats available including smoked salmon and poached eggs on a toasted bagel, or a simple but very scrumptious breakfast bap, you will be more than spoilt for choice when it comes to kick-starting your day.

Café Retreat can also be found on Whiteladies Rd and Victoria St and are available for private hire in the evenings.

T: 01225 480532

T: 01179 238186

W: www.riversidecafebath.co.uk

W: www.CafeRetreat.co.uk

> flavour

rise and shine

Of all the advice we’re given by people older and forever wiser, it’s hard to deny one particular pearl of wisdom; breakfast is the most important meal of the day. This month flavour jumps on the breakfast bandwagon and sets out in search of the tastiest places to start your day.

Wild Café

Sitting on the harbourside opposite the SS Great Britain is a sandwich shop with a charming difference. Brunel’s Buttery is renowned for its character, service and excellent food. Nowhere else in the city will you find a sausage sarnie, a bacon butty or slice of homemade cake as comforting and delicious as here. Also available are homemade pasties, pies, scones and jam. This little gem is everlasting proof that it is the little things that bring life and character to the centre of the city.

An easygoing café with a simple ethos can be found tucked in the cobbled square of Queen Street, Bath. The Wild Café is an establishment with a focus on local, seasonal and sustainable produce cooked before your very eyes in an open kitchen. Treat yourself to an all day breakfast made from local produce or a fruit pancake stack with seasonal fruit or perhaps even a kedgeree brunch special with smoked fish from Cornwall will take your fancy. With fresh, homemade dishes, cooked and assembled to order with an efficient and friendly service, this little gem makes your perfect morning start. Open seven days a week from 8am-6pm during the week.

T: 01179 291696

T: 01225 448673 W: www.wildcafe.co.uk

Brunel’s Buttery

Wapping Wharf, BS1 6DS

Souk Kitchen Middle Eastern market food arrived in Bristol last month courtesy of Souk Kitchen. The restaurant offers authentic street food dishes from all over the Middle East, served up with a large dose of the region’s famous hospitality and washed down with a delicious glass of mint tea! Souk Kitchen is the place to breakfast on North Street. Choose from dishes such as shakshouka, a typical Middle Eastern breakfast of poached eggs cooked in a sauce of tomatoes, peppers and onions served hot in the pan with homemade zatar flatbread.

Alternatively a Souk Omelette or the more continental French toast might take your breakfast fancy.

T: 01179 666880 W: www.soukkitchen.co.uk

Café Retro A stone's throw away from the beautiful Bath Abbey, Café Retro offers a venue full of character and cosyness.

Renowned for their hearty and delicious breakfasts, you can chose from full English to continental, from eggs benedict to a sausage or bacon butty or indeed muesli with Greek yoghurt and a glass of orange juice. Unwind and catch up with old friends over the sounds of jazz or maybe a bit of latin. If you're in more of a hurry then take advantage of their ‘Retro-to-Go’ service and enjoy delicious, freshly prepared food on the go.

T: 01225 339347

W: www.caferetro.co.uk

17

Vincenzo’s Pizza House There are many certainties in life – death, disappointment, taxes, the rain in Spain that falls mainly on the plain – but according to Nick Gregory, you can add to that list Vincenzo’s Pizza House, situated just off Park Street in the centre of Bristol.

The certainty for ‘Old Man Vince’s’ is not that it opens 365 days a year because it doesn’t; the doors close on Christmas and Boxing Day. It’s not that the menu remains constant and safe either, because it’s frequently updated as and when the powers that be fancy a change. The certainty Vincenzo’s offers is an atmosphere that is as warm as the sun that sets over Sicily, and there is a good reason for that - this is a bonafide, homecoming, feet-up, family-run restaurant.

bloodline. The décor is not Tate Modern, but if you like postcards on the wall from the thousands of patrons over the years and empty bottles of Chianti hanging from the ceiling, then you’ll be right at home.

The patriarch Vincenzo, and his wife Teresa set up this little gem 40 years ago as one of the first Italian restaurants in the West Country and, but for a gentle tweak here and there over the decades, thankfully it hasn’t changed that much.

Vince’s daughter Isabella now runs the show, with help from Guiseppe, Joe, Raff (pictured right) and one of the old favourites, Mario - a legend in his own right – but Isabella has stuck to her father’s principles and kept Vincenzo’s as a little community, with a huge and loyal following.

The food is cooked to the same formula Vince established when he first opened the kitchen, albeit now by head chef Guiseppe, a younger member of the 18

The terrace is a bright, spacious, childfriendly space to enjoy your meal, a contrast to the intimate and conservatively lit dozen or so tables towards the reception area, but both have their merits depending on your mood.

Italians don’t suffer fools gladly and they won’t be rushed - life just happens and works in its own time here – but when your

> flavour

Vincenzo’s Pizza House There are many certainties in life – death, disappointment, taxes, the rain in Spain that falls mainly on the plain – but according to Nick Gregory, you can add to that list Vincenzo’s Pizza House, situated just off Park Street in the centre of Bristol.

The certainty for ‘Old Man Vince’s’ is not that it opens 365 days a year because it doesn’t; the doors close on Christmas and Boxing Day. It’s not that the menu remains constant and safe either, because it’s frequently updated as and when the powers that be fancy a change. The certainty Vincenzo’s offers is an atmosphere that is as warm as the sun that sets over Sicily, and there is a good reason for that - this is a bonafide, homecoming, feet-up, family-run restaurant.

bloodline. The décor is not Tate Modern, but if you like postcards on the wall from the thousands of patrons over the years and empty bottles of Chianti hanging from the ceiling, then you’ll be right at home.

The patriarch Vincenzo, and his wife Teresa set up this little gem 40 years ago as one of the first Italian restaurants in the West Country and, but for a gentle tweak here and there over the decades, thankfully it hasn’t changed that much.

Vince’s daughter Isabella now runs the show, with help from Guiseppe, Joe, Raff (pictured right) and one of the old favourites, Mario - a legend in his own right – but Isabella has stuck to her father’s principles and kept Vincenzo’s as a little community, with a huge and loyal following.

The food is cooked to the same formula Vince established when he first opened the kitchen, albeit now by head chef Guiseppe, a younger member of the 18

The terrace is a bright, spacious, childfriendly space to enjoy your meal, a contrast to the intimate and conservatively lit dozen or so tables towards the reception area, but both have their merits depending on your mood.

Italians don’t suffer fools gladly and they won’t be rushed - life just happens and works in its own time here – but when your

Vince's pizzas have long been considered the best around for those in the know.

food is on the red-striped tablecloth you’ll be pleased whatever your order. The pizzas are as you’d like them (without the price tag of the well-known chains) and the pasta and breads come in all shapes and sizes.

You will not leave here hungry. Ask for some of ‘Vince’s bread’ to take home with you too – the missus will be pleased.

I’ve been stuck refuelling a boat in the port of Savona for a night and I’ve had a twohour stop-off at Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci Airport, so I wont pretend I’m an aficionado on everything Italian. But I’ll tell you this,

had I disembarked or left duty free I would have liked to have ended up somewhere like Vincenzo’s.

Oh, and here’s another certainty, I will be back. Ciao Bella.

Vincenzo’s Pizza House 71a Park Street Bristol BS1 5PB 01179 260908 www.vincenzos-bristol.co.uk

vincenzo’s

> flavour

bridge house

BridgeHouse This month, flavour takes a trip down to Dorset to visit BridgeHouse, a small hotel with big aspirations…

Apart from the fortunate few city slickers who enjoy the best of both worlds, the dream of swapping a concrete jungle for green open spaces is commonplace.

produce. The Ruby Red beef, the hand dived Lyme Bay scallops, Denhay’s farmhouse cheddar, and local cider – the list is endless.

If ever realised at all, this pipe dream is usually reserved for the retirement years.

Not so for Mark and Jo Donovan, whose previous careers as a television director and fashion buyer respectively, were worlds apart from the hoteliers they chose to become. “My job sometimes took me to The Middle East for weeks at a time,” explains Jo, “I absolutely loved what I did, but falling pregnant called for a change of pace and lifestyle.”

With these enviable tools at his disposal, executive chef Stephen Pielesz is best able to showcase his Michelin star training, which he does with notable flair. The menu at the hotel’s Beaminster Brasserie, even for the seasoned gourmand, makes for interesting reading, with dishes seemingly constructed to be full of flavour without being over complicated.

When a thirteenth century hamstone house came up for sale in the quaint village of Beaminster where the couple regularly holidayed, the time seemed right to embark on a new adventure. The work undertaken at BridgeHouse was certainly extensive, beginning with a complete refit of all the bathrooms and ending with a cosmetic refit to make an interior designer proud. Vibrant modern fabrics are tastefully interspersed throughout the hotel with sympathetic antique furniture, making BridgeHouse feel at once cosmopolitan and cosy.

Now let’s be under no illusion here: West Dorset, home of Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall’s River Cottage near Axminster, Mark Hix’s Oyster and Fish House in Lyme Regis and Masterchef winner Mat Folla’s restaurant The Wild Garlic (a stone’s throw from BridgeHouse), is a culinary haven. And then there’s the 20

To start, Stephen’s latest invention of venison and quail Scotch egg, black pudding, pea purée and homemade ketchup (£8.95) was as good as it sounds; a luxurious nod to a British classic.

There’s a palpable sense of pride and care taken in all aspects of a guest’s stay at BridgeHouse, whether it’s the impeccably crisp white linen in the bedrooms, or the extensive hand selected wine list. Should you feel a little swamped by the choice on offer, you can be assured of sound advice from general manager come sommelier Mark Pielesz. My chosen chalice was a bottle of Chilean Pinot Noir from the Casablanca Valley (£23.95) one of the beststructured examples I’ve sampled outside of Burgundy.

If the devil is in the detail, then BridgeHouse is a damned great way to simultaneously sample both the rural charm of Dorset and the exacting standards of London living. Hats off to Mark and Jo for making a huge success of their new lives as the consummate hosts.�

Given the proximity of the coast, the panache of local fish, sautéed samphire, vegetable tagliatelle and caviar butter sauce (£19.50) proved irresistible and did not disappoint. Beautifully poached, the fish was lifted to dizzy new heights by the saltiness of its emerald green bedfellow samphire. Little wonder with an average turnaround from sea to plate of just 12 hours.

Finally, a caramelised St Clements tart with Somerset clotted cream (£6.50) delivered three desserts in one; the crunchy top layer reminiscent of crème brulée giving way to a decadently rich citrus filling, supported by a buttery biscuit base. Simply delicious.

The BridgeHouse Hotel Prout Bridge Beaminster Dorset DT8 3AY 01308 862200 www.bridge-house.co.uk

There’s a palpable sense of pride and care taken in all aspects of a guest’s stay at BridgeHouse, whether it’s the impeccably crisp white linen in the bedrooms, or the extensive hand selected wine list.

Sponsored by

11-12 September 2010 Bristol Harbourside

Just as nature intended #ELEBRATING YEARS AS %UROPE S LARGEST ORGANIC EVENT

This year’s Organic Food Festival offers families and food lovers more than ever before... /VER /RGANIC &OOD 0RODUCERS s #ELEBRITY #HEF $EMOS s ,IVE "ANDS s ,IVESTOCK s +IDS 4ASTE %XPERIENCE s 'ORGEOUS (EALTH AND "EAUTY 0RODUCTS s /RGANIC 'ARDENING s &ABULOUS &ASHION AND 4EXTILES Tickets only £5 Children and Soil Association members go FREE!

Visit www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk for more information

> flavour

Ask a chef

ask a chef

R

Ronnie Faulkner

onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie's Restaurant in Thornbury. Ron has had a distinguished career working in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as the Good Food Guide’s 'Restaurant of the Year’. Ronnie’s is based in Thornbury and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Lunches and coffees are available from 10am-3pm and evening meals are available from 6.30pm-11pm. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.

(?)

Q. What’s the tastiest way to cook a sweet potato?

Simon Jones, Bath.

A. Sweet potatoes are extremely versatile. I’ve enjoyed them roasted, pureed, turned into soups, fried and chipped, but a general rule of thumb is that sweet potatoes can work very well with spices. One of my favourite comfort foods is a sweet potato roasted with cumin seeds and seasoned with chilli flakes. It’s something I’d do at home on a Sunday with a big juicy joint.

Q. What’s the best flavour to go with squid salad? I made one recently and found it quite bland.

Lindsey West, Wiltshire.

A. Fresh squid is a delight. I open the squid into a sheet and score the inside with a knife into a checked pattern and marinate it in garlic, chilli and olive oil.

To make the salad, I season and grill the squid. The squid will roll back into a cylindrical shape and cooks quite quickly on a hot grill. The squid is then cut into smaller chunks and dressed with fresh lemon juice and olive oil.

To finish I add some rocket leaves and a couple of sun-blushed tomatoes.

Q. I love buying raspberries at this time of year, can you recommend something a bit different to make with them?

Matt Kennedy, Totterdown.

A. One of my favorite raspberry dessert is Cranachan, a Scottish dessert of raspberries, honey, whipped cream, whisky and oats. Toast the oats under a grill and while they are toasting, place the raspberries in the bottom of a tumbler, whisk the cream and add the honey and whisky to taste. Cover the raspberries with the cream and top with toasted oats once they have cooled. It’s so simple but the flavours all seem to work in perfect harmony. If you are into making ice cream, try using the same ingredients with some creme Anglaise to make Cranachan ice cream.

If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com

Q. How easy is it to make pâte?

Maria Plummer, Wells.

A. Pâte is fairly easy to make and can be made from a number of different meats. Chicken liver pâte is certainly one of my favourites. We add reduction of Port, Madeira and Brandy, cooked out with shallots, garlic and thyme to give a beautiful depth of flavour. The reduction is liquidised with 500g of chicken liver, 500g of melted butter and 5 eggs. To ensure a soft and smooth consistency, we pass the mixture through a very fine sieve and cook it to 63°C. Q. I’m told that you can eat pork slightly pink these days, is this true?

Stephen Casey, London.

A. The food standards agency will tell you the best way to serve pork is cooked through to avoid risk of illness. Because of this I cannot advise you to eat pink pork and very rarely serve prime cuts of pork in the restaurant. However when I cook at home I do serve pork loin rosie, the meat is still hot in the centre, but it is beautifully moist.

I guess it’s a question of risk and reward.

Ronnies – Tel: 0800 849 4455 www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk 23

> flavour

valentine warner

10 questions with…

Valentine Warner

Ahead of his visit to Bristol for the Love Cooking Festival, we caught up with the quirky Valentine Warner to talk TV, travel and tattoos…

When did you realise that good food was going to become a way of life?

From an early age I was fascinated by all kitchen goings on and also my mother’s cook books. I seemed to try and understand the world by trying to cram everything in my mouth. Although I went on to train as an artist, switching to cooking was the one of the clearest and most immediate decisions of my life.

What are your fondest food memories as a boy?

Making Sunday breakfast as a family we all had a little job to do. I was normally on hot milk and the whole operation was like a well-oiled machine. My first real cup of coffee was pretty important too. Whereas before I had only smelt it, the taste blew me away – at 13 it also made me feel very grown up. Eating my dad’s saffron-yellow prawn curry, my brother and I counted the prawns in our bowls and only dad was allowed to have more than us!

Your roots are firmly based in the countryside, how does that influence your cooking style?

There’s so much tradition thriving in the countryside. You’re always aware of the link between the kitchen, wildlife and farming.

It’s the outside brought inside and turned into something good. Food tends to be more in touch with the rhythms of nature. It’s a place where I’m repeatedly delighted to find things that I thought were gone forever. I like a sense of history and simplicity in cooking and that’s often found in regional country cookbooks.

Did it make you a more adventurous eater?

Being lucky enough to grow up drinking unpasteurized milk and eating dishes like

Food tends to be more in touch with the rhythms of nature. It’s a place where I’m repeatedly delighted to find things that I thought were gone forever 24

> flavour

valentine warner

jugged hare meant I was never squeamish, so the mushrooms, berries, rabbits and trout I was shown would be in a pan in a flash.

How did you end up with a television series?

It was a very lengthy process, Optomen approached me and then screen tested me for four years. They said ‘you’re a little strange but keep in touch’, we got there in the end though!

Was it daunting being in front of the camera at first or were you a natural?

It was daunting at first, there’s so much to learn – how to get information across to viewers, making sure you finish your sentences, looking at the camera etc. It’s not always easy and there were things that I wish I could have said again, but I really enjoy it and want to get better.

What have been your most memorable meals from around the globe?

I have travelled quite a bit, and my parents were good at taking us out to restaurants on holiday when we were children. There are too many good meals to mention, but I remember eating a very young goat in Greece that had been cooked in a charcoal pit as the sun was going down, that was amazing! We cut the meat and ate with penknives.

Who do you admire in the foodie world?

Simon Hopkinson – his cooking makes so much sense, with a wonderful respect for the old stuff. Alistair Little who I learnt under was the master of shortcuts, and a truly inspiring chef who helped me to discover the kind of cooking I wanted to be involved in. There are so many, and food writers too like Elizabeth David and Jeremy Round whose work I could never tire of reading. The Dock Kitchen, Stevie Parle’s new place in West London is amazing too.

If you had to cook a meal that represented the best of British produce, what would you choose?

Pork would have to be on the menu, we should be proud of our pigs. Cheeses would definitely make the final cut too – British cheeses are so underrated but fantastic.

And to drink it would have to be cider, no one makes it like we do.

Tell us something about yourself that our readers wouldn't know unless they met you in person.

Apart from the tattoo of a giant squid fighting a whale that covers my back and arms, there’s not really anything which springs to mind…

VALENTINE’S PEA, SALTED YOGHURT AND MINT SALAD This delightfully easy, quick and fresh lunch can be thrown together with peckish impatience in minutes. Having said that, it does require some strained salted yoghurt to be on standby.

Serves 2–3 Ingredients 200g freshly podded peas 1 long red chilli 1 garlic clove Juice of ½ lemon ½ tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 100g firm homemade salted strained yoghurt (see page 138) or fresh soft goat’s cheese Flaked sea salt and ground black pepper Small handful of fresh mint leaves Method 1 Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Add the peas and return to the

boil. Cook for 2 minutes. Drain, then plunge the peas into a large bowl of iced water and leave until cold.

2 Deseed the chilli and chop into tiny pieces. Rubber gloves here would be a wise protection from wandering chilli fingers. Peel the garlic and cut into tiny pieces.

3 Drain the peas and put in a serving bowl. Add the chilli, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper and toss together thoroughly.

4 Break the strained yoghurt (or cheese) into mouthfuls and scatter over the peas. Add the mint leaves, roughly torn. Turn through the peas until lightly mixed and serve.

You can see Valentine Warner demonstrating alongside Thomasina Miers and James Martin at the Love Cooking Festival at the Colston Hall. For more information, visit www.lovecookingfestival.com 25

> flavour

youth food

Great ideas come from great actions, initiative, dedication and of course, quite a lot of belief. Katy Davidson, founder of the UK branch of the Youth Food Movement, epitomises the very essence of such commitment.

Youth Food Movement After attending the Slow Food international congress in Puebla, Mexico in 2007, Katy Davidson spotted an opportunity in the already established movement: “I found that there weren’t enough young people involved. If you haven’t got young people coming through the door then the movement isn’t going to push forward.”

The founder of Slow Food International, Carlo Petrini then set Katy a challenge: to bring a youth delegation of 1000 young enthusiasts to Terra Madre, a bi-annual conference concerning gastronomy, globalisation and economics.

Katy set to work on her dining room table armed with a laptop, a list of contacts and plenty of enthusiasm. It took a year and in 2008 Katy employed over 24 people who were inspired enough to form a committee in London’s South Bank. The next aim was getting it moving across the UK. “Our actual committee is made up of women and everyone has plenty of flexibility when it comes to ideas. We do have regional representatives across the country but they’re not very active at the moment. What we are trying to do now is set up regional

groups so they have a framework.”

Youth Food is a network of young people who really want to make a difference in the food world. The movement engages with their audience in fun, interactive ways, looking at social, political and environmental issues at the same time. At the heart of Katy’s credo however is the importance of reminding people that eating for a sustainable future is pleasurable. Katy comments: “One of our great focuses is showing how vital food is within our society.

A family that eats around the table together is a family that stays together.”

Youth Food is run entirely by volunteers, with all funding coming out of their own pockets. “The programmes that we run

Katy taking part in Skill Share: Oyster Shucking

Youth Food hand people the key to playing an active role in the circle of production, taking back ownership of their food and being involved personally. have to be economically viable, for example Skill Share was a concept I created to encourage everyday people with specialised skills and knowledge in particular sectors, eg farming, to teach others and pass it on.

This programme allows knowledge of sectors to grow organically. It’s peer to peer and makes things more accessible and sustainable as well as giving people confidence in themselves.”

Youth Food has been busy forming partnerships with other similar groups.

Working with the National Federation of Young Farmers and the UK Climate

YFM campaigners make their pledge for change 26

> flavour

youth food

Coalition has enabled each group to get their messages out and find out what the issues are, combining skills, knowledge and targets, thus opening debate on a broader spectrum.

Hard work has been paying off for this enthusiastic team with support coming from many directions. Katy enthuses: “We won the Dandelion Award for Best Newcomers from Cooperative and Sustained Magazine. We also beat Hugh Fearnely-Whittingstall’s Landshare programme, coming first. This was mind blowing for us and really proved that our doing Youth Food work after a normal day jobs was really worth it.”

Eat-In Hyde Park: people gathering to share a homecooked meal. The idea originated in the USA, 2008

Support has also come from renowned chefs such as Oliver Rowe, Valentine Warner and Artuthur Potts Dawson who has allowed the Youth Food’s headquarters to be based at The People’s Supermarket in London, a members’ only supermarket that offers a new way of shopping which aims to change the way we buy food.

“The support has been fantastic as people can see a real need for this kind of organisation. Other movements can be quite narrow in their scope with regards to food, we are the opposite and that’s what sets us apart.” Katy continues: “People really enjoy us because we are so engaging in public events. For example our pledge blankets let people get involved in a happy and creative way. Anyone can make a pledge, creating the first steps for change.”

The challenges have been simple ones – money and geography. With the project being entirely self-funded, the team is excited about achieving charitable status and thus enabling to pay volunteers a salary as well as enabling regional committees the freedom and materials to expand.

Youth Food hand people the key to playing an active role in the circle of production, taking back ownership of their food and being involved personally. The dedication, creativeness and resourcefulness of this team are more than enough of a motivator to dig out our own felt tip pens and make a pledge to a more secure future for food.� W: www.youthfoodmovement.org.uk T:07813792968 27

Stanton House Hotel HouseHotel A beautiful Cotswold stone house overlooking Stanton Lake and park in beautiful Wiltshire countryside • Rosemary Restaurant • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch • “All you can eat” dinner on Thursdays • Japanese à la carte menu • Afternoon cream tea on the patio

The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 Email: restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk

www.stantonhouse.co.uk

THE

RICHMOND The setting of the Richmond is unique and special and provides the perfect location for enjoying long relaxing evenings soaking up the sunshine in our South facing garden. A perfect little getaway to meet up with friends, savour our seasonally inspired food, fine wines, real ales, local cider and European beers whilst dining Al Fresco.

7 Richmond Place, Bath BA1 5PZ

www.therichmond.co.uk

Opening hours Monday – Thursday, 12 – 3 and 5.30 – 11 Friday and Saturday, 12 – 3 snd 5.30 – 12 Sunday 12 – 10.30 Lunch menu from 12.00 – 2.30, Monday to Saturday Dinner menu from 6.00 – 9.30, Monday to Saturday Sunday lunch from 12.30 – 6

> flavour

long shelf life

As part of a new series, Helen Aurelius-Haddock takes a closer look at the culinary classics that should be adorning every cook’s bookshelf...

LONG SHELF LIFE...

How many of us have decided to “knock up a soup” from a few tired vegetables and a salty stock cube, only to be faced with a resultant grey sludge that appears to be inedible? I suspect most. It seems we all believe that if we can cook, ergo we can make soup. This is simply not so.

The soup maker’s art is indeed a specialist area. Based on one of the sacred tenets of cooking, namely stock, its very essence and taste come from a standpoint that a little advance preparation is necessary if we are going to enjoy eating it. Stocks are the serious currency underpinning each book, and it is clear that without this vital base ingredient, soup is unlikely to please. Stock cubes are most certainly not on the agenda here.

To date, Covent Garden Soup Co. have produced four charming ring-bound books with faithful reproductions of the soups they sell, plus a whole host of other soupy goodies. Written in a hand fashioned font, they are evocative of the personal kitchen diary of any keen cook who wants to scribble down a favourite dish in order to preserve it for future reproduction.

Given that this month we are featuring four books, it does beg a question: Is there really that much to write about soup to fill them all? Simply put, yes there is. Soup is a varied feast in both flavour and texture,

from clear broths to a thick and chunky potage. Like their product range, the Covent Garden team have evolved and the later books contain bean combos, breads, garnishes and savoury butters. Even moules marinière make an appearance, supposedly as they can fit onto a soup plate, who knows?

Inside, there are no glossy shots of antique tureens amid retro cookware, or food styled

It seems we all believe that if we can cook, ergo we can make soup. This is simply not so. shots of croutons, bisques and the like. Just a few sketches here and there to add a bit of thematic context to a chapter or recipe.

To compensate, there’s lots of newsy snippets and witty quotations making the books a treat to read for their own sakes.

Recipes are introduced often via the person who gave it. Scottish grandmothers, retired teachers, Valentina Harris, Iris Guilloux from Biarritz, a nameless Iranian ex-patriot,

and Anna from the sales department all make a contribution. Torn out cuttings from dog-eared magazines and yellowed newspapers kept and cherished for years in kitchen drawers make an appearance.

There’s even an alphabetical listing of the soups in the back where notes on variations can be made. The result? A veritable cornucopia of soups to provide something for every taste.

The bewildering array of choice can be a bit intimidating, but why not try one recipe from each chapter from The Book Of Soups, and choose the flavours that you find most appealing? For my money this worked very well, and at one point, I felt quite confident that I could set up in competition with my carrot and coriander and spinach with nutmeg creations, save the issues with copyright infringement that is. From there, dabble with the others to your heart’s desire.

If coffee table cookbooks are your thing, then perhaps these modest books might not hold an initial appeal. However, with a bit of patient reading and a touch ofexperimenting, you will soon be hooked on soup making and the evidence will no doubt be duly spattered over the books’ pages as culinary proof. I suspect they will take pride of place on the kitchen shelf for many years to come.�

31

THIS SUMMER AT LUCKNAM The Brasserie for stylish and contemporary dining. Using locally sourced fresh ingredients, our executive chef Hywel Jones has created an innovative 2 course set menu for £16.

Available Monday to Friday, 12 to 3pm.

And available every evening 3 course set dinner menu for just £27 per person.

For reservations please call 01225 740575.

Lucknam Park, Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777 reservations@lucknampark.co.uk www.lucknampark.co.uk

�������������������

�������������������������� �������������������������������� �������� ��� ����� ����� ������ �� ���� �� ��� �������� ������ ����� ��������������� ���� ����� ������������������������������������ ������������������������������ �������������������������������������� ��������������������� ��������������������������������������������������������

�� ��������������� ������������������

��� �������� ��� ������� ����������������

����� ������ ���������������������������� ��������������������������������

������������������������������������������������������������

> flavour

food from the sun

Make every day a holiday with these mouthwatering recipes from Ireland’s best loved chef Neven Maguire...

Food from the Sun 33

> flavour

food from the sun

SWISS CHARD AND RICOTTA RAVIOLI WITH PARMESAN SHAVINGS AND TOASTED PINE NUTS This dish will look as if you have gone to the trouble of making your own pasta. Instead, the secret is to use wonton wrappers, which can be found in Oriental supermarkets.

However, the ravioli do need to be made fresh and don’t benefit from hanging around.

Ingredients I love travelling. Every January my wife Amelda and I head away to far-flung places. In recent years we have been to Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, Australia, Bali and the USA. And wherever we go I love to sample the local food – tasty Thai noodles, rich Moroccan tagines, spicy Mexican food, delicious Italian pasta, fresh Greek salads and so much more. There are many wonderful new tastes, flavours and ingredients out there to discover.

I also enjoy visiting the local markets, such as the amazing Sineu village in Palma, Mallorca. There is a lot of pleasure to be had in finding exotic vegetables, rifling through enormous sacks of spices and sampling local cheeses and meats. And I love to get down to the ports to see the boats coming in and the freshest fish on offer. I wanted to draw on some of these holiday moments with recipes based on dishes I enjoyed abroad for you to cook at home.

34

1 tbsp olive oil 1 small red onion, peeled and finely diced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 4 Swiss or ruby chard leaves, tough stalks removed (if unavailable, use 100g (4oz) tender young spinach leaves) 200g (7oz) ricotta cheese 1 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves 24 wonton wrappers, thawed if frozen 1-2 tbsp plain flour for dusting Egg wash (1 full egg with 1 tbsp milk), for brushing Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling 25g (1oz) Parmesan, pared into shavings Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and sauté the onion and garlic for about 5 minutes until softened but not browned.

Remove and set aside. Add the chard and cook for 2-3 minutes until just wilted, stirring regularly. Remove from the heat, drain and leave to cool completely.

2 Squeeze out any excess moisture from the chard mixture, then finely chop. Place

in a bowl with the reserved onion and stir in the ricotta and basil. Season to taste and mix well to combine.

3 Place 12 wonton wrappers on a lightly floured work surface and spoon a heaped teaspoon of the chard mixture into the centre of each one. Brush around the edges with a little egg wash, then carefully cover with the remaining wonton wrappers, pressing gently to shape into ravioli. You can use a small fluted cutter to shape each ravioli if you wish, discarding the leftover scraps of wonton pastry.

4 To cook the ravioli, bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the ravioli and simmer for about two minutes until just cooked through and floating at the top of the pan. Drain well and arrange on warmed plates. Drizzle over the extra-virgin olive oil and scatter over the wild rocket, then sprinkle the toasted pine nuts and Parmesan shavings on top.

> flavour

food from the sun

BEETROOT CARPACCIO WITH CREAMED GOAT’S CHEESE This is so simple to make and the vivid colours and intense flavours make it an impressive dish to serve to guests. The marinated beetroot will keep for up to two weeks in the fridge.

It is best to wear a pair of rubber gloves when preparing the beetroot, to avoid staining your hands. Trim the tops off the beetroots and then peel them with a knife.

Using a mandolin or very sharp knife, carefully slice each beetroot as thinly as possible. You’ll need 24 even-sized round slices in total.

Ingredients 2 large raw beetroots 450ml (15fl oz) red wine 100ml (31/2 fl oz) ruby red port 2 tbsp crème de cassis (optional) 225g (8oz) soft goat’s cheese, any rind removed

3 tbsp basil oil 1 tsp snipped fresh chives 4 tsp balsamic syrup 1 punnet of salad cress 1 small Granny Smith apple 4 tsp toasted pine nuts Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Place the red wine in a large pan along with the port, crème de cassis (if using) and the sugar. Bring to the boil, then add the thinly sliced beetroot and cook for 8-10 minutes or until just cooked through. Leave to cool in the cooking syrup, then place in the fridge overnight if time allows. Once marinated, drain the beetroot well and reserve the syrup to use again for poaching pears or plums or for marinating more beetroot.

2 Place the goat’s cheese in a food processor with 2 tablespoons of the basil oil and blend until soft. Stir in the chives and add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a 2.5 cm (1in) plain nozzle and chill for 10 minutes to help the mixture to firm up.

3 Immediately before serving, core the apple and shred into very fine strips. Drizzle each plate with a little balsamic syrup and arrange three slices of beetroot next to each other on top. Pipe the creamed goat's cheese onto the centre of each of beetroot, then carefully place into the centre of each portion of beetroot, carefully placing another slice on top of each. Cut the salad cress with scissors and scatter on top with the apple strips and pine nuts, then drizzle over the remaining basil oil.

35

> flavour

food from the sun

The food we eat is constantly changing and developing, with ever increasing ranges of exotic ingredients, excellent fresh food, and great specialist stores popping up everywhere. Those holiday flavours no longer have to be a just a distant memory...

CHICKEN AND CHORIZO RICE BAKE This one-pot wonder gives maximum flavour with minimum effort and is guaranteed to wake up your taste buds. If you don’t have a suitable casserole dish, just use a large sauté pan, then transfer to a roasting tin and cover loosely with foil.

Make sure you buy raw chorizo for this dish, which will impart lots of flavour to the rice as it cooks.

Serves 4 Ingredients 300g jar of artichoke hearts in olive oil (or 400g can of artichoke hearts in brine) 25g (10oz) butter 4 chicken breast fillets, with skin on 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

36

100g (4oz) raw chorizo sausage, peeled and sliced 350g (12oz long grain rice) 150ml (5fl oz) dry white wine 600ml (1 pint) chicken stock 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Salt an freshly ground black pepper 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Drain the oil from the jar of artichokes and add 1 tablespoon to a casserole dish with a lid. Add half the butter and place on the hob to heat. Season the chicken breasts, add to the dish, skin side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes until lightly browned. Turn over and cook for another minute or so until sealed. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2 Add another tablespoon of the drained artichoke oil to the dish together with the remaining butter, then tip in onion and garlic. Sauté for 2-3 minutes until softened but not browned. Add the chorizo and rice and cook for another 2 minutes, stirring regularly until the chorizo has begun to release its oil and all the rice grains are well coated.

3 Pour the wine into the dish, stirring to combine, then add the stock and fold in the artichokes. Arrange the chicken on top, pushing the breasts down into the rice.

Cover with the lid and bake for 35-40 minutes until al the liquid has been absorbed and the chicken and rice are cooked through and tender. Scatter over the parsley and place directly on the table to serve.

> flavour

food from the sun

Award-winning chef Neven Maguire is a celebrated name in cookery. He began cooking at the age of 12 in his family’s restaurant, before gaining experience in Michelin-starred kitchens throughout Europe. He is now the proprietor and head chef of MacNean House & Restaurant in County Cavan. Neven has appeared on many international TV programmes and is the author of five cookbooks.

‘Food from the Sun’ is available at all good bookshops. Published by Harper Collins. RRP £14.99

PASSION FRUIT TART The passionfruit in this tart adds fragrance as well as zing crisp and caramelised on the outside; it has a sweet, smooth and zesty centre.

175g (6oz) caster sugar Finely grated rind and juice of 2 lemons 6 passionfruit, halved and pulp scooped out 225ml (8fl oz) double cream

Serves 8

1 To make the pastry, place the butter, flour, salt and sugar in a food processor and blend for about 10 seconds until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and cream and mix again briefly. Do not over-work or the pastry will be tough. Bring the pastry together into a ball and wrap in clingfilm, then place in the fridge for at least 3-4 hours to firm up.

4 Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C (325°F), gas mark 3. To make the filling, combine the eggs in a large bowl with the sugar, lemon rind and passionfruit pulp, then stir in the lemon juice and cream. Blitz with a hand-held blender, then pass through a sieve into a jug. This extracts as much flavour from the passionfruit as possible.

2 To make the raspberry sauce, blend the raspberries and icing sugar in a food processor for 1 minute. Pass through a sieve into a bowl, cover with clingfilm and keep chilled until ready to serve.

5 Pour the mixture into the pre-baked pastry case. Bake for 30-40 minutes until set and slightly wobbly in the centre. Turn off the heat and leave the tart to cool completely in the oven.

3 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. When the pastry is chilled, roll out on a lightly floured work surface and use to line a 20cm (8in) diameter flan ring. Cover with foil, then fill with baking beans and bake ‘blind’ for about 20 minutes until the pastry is golden brown. Remove from the oven; discard the baking beans and the foil

6 The tart can be served as it is, or you can brown the top by coating heavily with icing sugar, and putting briefly under a very hot preheated grill, or blasting with a chef blow torch. Place a slice of tart on each plate, dot some raspberry sauce to the side and decorate with raspberries and fresh mint.

Serve with lightly whipped cream.

Ingredients 100g (4oz) butter, diced 175g (6oz) plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting pinch of salt 50g (2oz) caster sugar 1 egg yolk ½ tbsp double cream Egg wash (I full egg with 1 tbsp milk), for brushing 25g (10oz) icing sugar, to brûlée (optional) Fresh mint sprigs, to decorate Lightly whipped cream, to serve For the raspberry sauce: 100g (4oz) raspberries, plus extra to decorate 1tsp icing sugar For the filling: 5 eggs

and brush the warm pastry case with egg wash.

37

> flavour

organic food festival

Retracing its grass roots...

It’s a Saturday in early September, 2001 and Bristol’s Watershed is filling with people...

The crowd, mostly locals from Bristol and the surrounding area, is gathering for the first ever Organic Food Festival and will meet a unique group of producers who are paving the way for a more sustainable future. From cheese makers, organic meat and dairy farms to organic clothing and beauty products, the 4,500 visitors are united in their love of one thing – organic produce.

The Organic Food Festival, now in its 10th year, has come a long way since the weekend in late Summer 2001 but the love of food with a good provenance still remains. As with most successful events, they are set up by people who have a genuine love and passion for what it is they’re representing. This was certainly true for Sally Packer, who was responsible for taking the Organic Food Festival to Bristol and ably organising it for the first few years of its life with her company, Creativity Events.

organic

food festival Celebrating 10 years of Europe’s largest organic event...

38

“I’ve always organised events that I held a true passion for. The Organic Food Festival in Bristol actually evolved from the London based one at Crystal Palace. A lot of the producers who were exhibiting there were from the South West and it made far more sense to hold something to celebrate the work that we were all doing in the context of a city closer to where we were actually based.”

The celebrations have certainly continued in style and over the decade the popularity of organic has surged. In its inaugural year the festival was host to around 4,500 visitors.

This has increased exponentially with this year's festival expecting more than 20,000 over the course of the weekend. Now held at the Bristol Harbourside to accommodate the number of visitors, it is regarded as a must-visit event for any foodie's diary.

Along with the surge in interest has been a rapid increase in the attractions on offer at the festival. This year, organiser Philip Lowery of Real Food Festival fame, is offering a wider range of produce than ever before at the Food Market. Here, visitors

can look, taste and buy from stalls offering some of the best organic produce you can find in the UK. The focus isn't solely on food either – organic health and beauty and textiles each have their own pavilions, and the Kids Taste Experience tent will encourage children to think about how their food is made by offering butter making, seed planting and bread baking workshops.

Over the years, chefs including Jamie Oliver, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Sophie Grigson have given their support to the organic movement. This year, visitors can expect to see a host of celebrity chefs including Barney Haughton, Oliver Rowe and Geetie Singh who will impart their culinary wisdom in the Chef Demo Kitchen.

The festival also receives sponsorship from leading organic producers Yeo Valley, who have supported the festival since the early years when it was a fledgling foodie event .

In the last few years, the festival has acquired a new level of recognition, becoming part of the Soil Association's Organic Fortnight and taking the accolade of Europe's biggest celebration of organic.

Patrick Holden, Director of the Soil Association is one of the few people who has witnessed the transition: “Looking back over the ten years since the Organic Food Festival began, organic production has grown from niche to mainstream and is very much established as part of the sustainable food and farming debate. As well as providing a fun weekend for families and friends, the festival helps to demonstrate how organic production is part of the solution to the challenges of climate change and increased stresses on our environment.”

This year’s 10th anniversary will without doubt be a particularly special year for the festival organisers and producers offering everyone the chance to celebrate their achievements. Promising to be a family friendly outing perfect for all, one thing is for certain: there couldn't be a better time to pay the festival a visit.

The Organic Food Festival is on Saturday September 11 (10am-6pm) and Sunday September 12 (10am-5pm) at Bristol Harbourside. Tickets cost £5, with free entry for children and Soil Association members. Visit www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk for more information. The event is being organised by the Real Food Festivals Ltd, in association with the Soil Association.

39

> flavour

organic food festival

Retracing its grass roots...

It’s a Saturday in early September, 2001 and Bristol’s Watershed is filling with people...

The crowd, mostly locals from Bristol and the surrounding area, is gathering for the first ever Organic Food Festival and will meet a unique group of producers who are paving the way for a more sustainable future. From cheese makers, organic meat and dairy farms to organic clothing and beauty products, the 4,500 visitors are united in their love of one thing – organic produce.

The Organic Food Festival, now in its 10th year, has come a long way since the weekend in late Summer 2001 but the love of food with a good provenance still remains. As with most successful events, they are set up by people who have a genuine love and passion for what it is they’re representing. This was certainly true for Sally Packer, who was responsible for taking the Organic Food Festival to Bristol and ably organising it for the first few years of its life with her company, Creativity Events.

organic

food festival Celebrating 10 years of Europe’s largest organic event...

38

“I’ve always organised events that I held a true passion for. The Organic Food Festival in Bristol actually evolved from the London based one at Crystal Palace. A lot of the producers who were exhibiting there were from the South West and it made far more sense to hold something to celebrate the work that we were all doing in the context of a city closer to where we were actually based.”

The celebrations have certainly continued in style and over the decade the popularity of organic has surged. In its inaugural year the festival was host to around 4,500 visitors.

This has increased exponentially with this year's festival expecting more than 20,000 over the course of the weekend. Now held at the Bristol Harbourside to accommodate the number of visitors, it is regarded as a must-visit event for any foodie's diary.

Along with the surge in interest has been a rapid increase in the attractions on offer at the festival. This year, organiser Philip Lowery of Real Food Festival fame, is offering a wider range of produce than ever before at the Food Market. Here, visitors

can look, taste and buy from stalls offering some of the best organic produce you can find in the UK. The focus isn't solely on food either – organic health and beauty and textiles each have their own pavilions, and the Kids Taste Experience tent will encourage children to think about how their food is made by offering butter making, seed planting and bread baking workshops.

Over the years, chefs including Jamie Oliver, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Sophie Grigson have given their support to the organic movement. This year, visitors can expect to see a host of celebrity chefs including Barney Haughton, Oliver Rowe and Geetie Singh who will impart their culinary wisdom in the Chef Demo Kitchen.

The festival also receives sponsorship from leading organic producers Yeo Valley, who have supported the festival since the early years when it was a fledgling foodie event .

In the last few years, the festival has acquired a new level of recognition, becoming part of the Soil Association's Organic Fortnight and taking the accolade of Europe's biggest celebration of organic.

Patrick Holden, Director of the Soil Association is one of the few people who has witnessed the transition: “Looking back over the ten years since the Organic Food Festival began, organic production has grown from niche to mainstream and is very much established as part of the sustainable food and farming debate. As well as providing a fun weekend for families and friends, the festival helps to demonstrate how organic production is part of the solution to the challenges of climate change and increased stresses on our environment.”

This year’s 10th anniversary will without doubt be a particularly special year for the festival organisers and producers offering everyone the chance to celebrate their achievements. Promising to be a family friendly outing perfect for all, one thing is for certain: there couldn't be a better time to pay the festival a visit.

The Organic Food Festival is on Saturday September 11 (10am-6pm) and Sunday September 12 (10am-5pm) at Bristol Harbourside. Tickets cost £5, with free entry for children and Soil Association members. Visit www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk for more information. The event is being organised by the Real Food Festivals Ltd, in association with the Soil Association.

39

> flavour

organic food festival

Bart Spices We have exhibited at the Organic Food Festival for many years. It’s a great way for us to speak to local consumers but also highlights our organic credentials which we are extremely proud of. Our Bart Delicatessen range is a vibrant and exciting range of organic ingredients that helps recreate many wonderful dishes from around the world. We have sampled many cuisines to find and select the best ingredients, resulting in a collection that is vibrant, aromatic and intense.

This year we will be bringing our range of Bart Fairtrade Organic Spices which we introduced this summer. There are thirteen products in the range which include Cinnamon, Cardamom, Ground Cloves & Black Peppercorns.

T: 0117 9773474 W: www.bartspices.com

Rathbone Greenbank Investments Rathbone Greenbank Investments is pleased to continue its support of the Organic Food Festival and we will again be offering free organic apples and a prize raffle to visitors to our stand! As specialists in ethical investment for private clients, charities and trusts we are constantly seeking to find companies whose activities and ethos are aligned with those of our clients. For us and many of our clients, the production of fairtrade and organic products is an area of keen interest, and we have made a number of investments in support of companies engaged in these activities. The festival is a lively reminder of why we do it!

T: 0117 930 3000 W: www.rathbonegreenbank.com

visit our stand for your FREE organic apple!

Vinceremos Organic Wines Celebrating our 25th birthday this year, Vinceremos are the UK’s longest established organic wine importers, offering a comprehensive range of the best organic drinks available. We have been enthusiastic exhibitors at The Organic Food Festival since it began. Our range includes over 300 organic and Fairtrade wines from around the world, with many award-winners. We stock British and European organic beers, ciders and delicious juices. We also have Fairtrade and organic liqueurs and spirits. We offer a friendly and efficient service, nationwide.

T: 0800 107 3086 W: www.vinceremos.co.uk

40

> flavour

organic food festival

Trethowan’s Dairy Trethowan's Dairy make Gorwydd Caerphilly. Inspired by simplicity and the desire to do one thing well, we make one cheese and sell only a handful in our shop – made or matured by friends. Todd visits the farms every fortnight to bring back the freshest cheeses to Bristol. At the Organic Festival, we will be showcasing the wonderful Stichelton, the distinctively buttery Hafod and the deliciously creamy Finn.

T: 0117 902 0332 W: www.trethowansdairy.co.uk

Ashridge Cider We have made our name by making high quality “champagne method” ciders. Our Vintage Sparkling Cider has won a gold award at the Great Taste Awards for the last three years running. All of our orchards became fully organic last September and we have now embarked on full organic production. In addition to cider, we have recently brought out the first drinks in a range of organic soft drinks. We can’t wait to exhibit our full range of organic drinks at the festival, including draught cider, bottled vintage cider, sparkling apple juice and a delicious sparkling elderflower pressé.

T: 01364 654749 W: www.ashridgecider.co.uk

Simon Weaver Organics

Simon Weaver’s delicious Cotswold Brie is made at Kirkham Farm at Upper Slaughter in the Cotswolds. The milk comes exclusively from the farm’s organic herd of Friesians which contentedly graze the banks of the River Dikler. No fertilizers or chemicals are used on the farm and the cheese is made from milk that is never more than an hour or so old. This freshness is reflected in the clean, fresh and creamy taste.

As well as Cotswold Brie, Cotswold Blue and Cotswold Herb, which have been in production for 6 years, there will soon be a Mozzarella and a Greek Style cheese to try. The cheese will be the first farm made, organic cows’ milk Mozzarella produced in the UK. T: 01451 870852 W: www.simonweaver.net

The Organic Spirits Co. The Organic Food Festival is one of the highlights of our year. A great mix of existing customers, foodies, environmentalists, vegetarians, vegans, and many friends from the thriving world of organic food and drink.

Many visit us to enjoy our world solus Fairtrade and Organic Papagayo Rums, or to savour UK5 Organic Vodka or muse over the delicious flavours of Highland Harvest Organic Scotch.

T: 01483 894650 W: www.junipergreen.org.

41

> flavour

organic food festival

Lye Cross Farm Lye Cross Farm is the brand of the Alvis family, who are one of the finest cheesemakers in the West County. The Alvis family have been dedicated to making the highest quality cheddar on the family farm since 1952. The Organic Food Festival gives us a great opportunity to showcase the cheese we produce and bring our products to the attention of people who enjoy and understand the benefits of Organic food and production. We love to answer lots of questions and the festival is a one off opportunity here in Bristol to offer lots of samples of our delicious cheeses.

T: 01934 864 600 W: www.lyecrossfarm.co.uk

WIN! A delicious organic aperitif!

In celebration of the 10th Organic Food Festival, Bramley and Gage are offering six lucky flavour readers the chance to win a bottle of Bramley and Gage Organic Sloe Gin. Made from wild sloe berries, organic gin and organic sugar, this award winning warming drink can be widely enjoyed as an essential cocktail ingredient as well as a countryside favourite and hip flask filler.

For your chance of winning email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine, or write to us at the usual address. Good luck!

Real Organic Food Company

Real Organic is a small family company based in Oxfordshire, with a passion for pure tastes and inspirational recipes which are deliciously different. We pride ourselves on producing the freshest tasting products to ensure ‘homemade’ freshness is captured in a jar.

We are looking forward to sharing our passion for good food at the Organic Food Festival with our scrumptious sauces, conserves and chutneys and some new gourmet treats.

W: www.realorganic.co.uk T: 01491 615280

42

www.bramleyandgage.co.uk

> flavour

organic food festival

Organic Everyday The Soil Association’s Organic Fortnight takes place this year between 3-7 September.

This year the Soil Association is encouraging you to try something organic everyday.

Get involved during the fortnight and discover why organic is good for your well-being and your planet, is kind to animals and wildlife and allows us make a big difference simply through the way we shop.

Go organic everyday

Visit an organic farm

Switch one of your everyday beauty products to organic or buy an item of clothing made from UK organic wool or organic cotton. There are plenty of ways you can shop organic for less such as signing up to a veg box scheme, eating less meat and, when you do, choosing lower cost cuts.

Cook in bulk and grow your own for the freshest, most local food you can get. These simple changes will become unnoticeable in day-to-day life.

Choose from over 100 farms across the UK, a fun day out for all the family. By taking children and educating the next generation, having organic fingers will become second nature.

Holiday organic Browse your way down country lanes and through the gates of nearly 200 working organic farms welcoming visitors to cottages, farm buildings, campsites and the odd yurt.

Learn a new skill

Attend the Soil Association’s Organic Food Festival The ever-popular Organic Food Festival, a highlight of the fortnight, is back on 11 and 12 September at Bristol Harbourside. Now in its tenth year the festival celebrates the full spectrum of organic fare with hundreds of stalls selling delicious food and drink, organic clothes and beauty products.

Learn from the experts at Soil Association Organic Farm School. The courses cater to all skill levels and provide the opportunity to learn from organic farmers with personal experience – from a one-day basic introduction to more professional expertise – in bee-keeping, chicken keeping, vegetable growing, willow weaving, hedge laying or dry stone walling, and many others.

Host an organic dinner party Invite friends and family over for an organic feast and help raise money for the Soil Association. Check out www.diner4good.com for more information on how to host a dinner.

Dine out organic Eat out at a Soil Association certified or approved restaurant. When dining look out for the Food for Life catering mark. With this you can guarantee that your food is fresh, honest and additive-free.

Join the Soil Association Last but by no means least, join the Soil Association and help them to build a healthier and more sustainable food and farming future.

For more information on any of these ideas, call 01173 145000 or visit www.soilassociation.org 43

> flavour

44

kitchen garden

> flavour

This month Alex Geneen, owner of The Fox at Broughton Gifford offers his seasonal tips for harvesting and growing in August.

kitchen garden

kitchen garden

Having only opened the pub last year, we’ve all been very busy with trying to establish a new business as well as a new garden!

Initially we started by planting two small 6ft x 4ft beds for our herbs. It was only a couple of weeks later when we put in four more beds of the same size and filled them with

peas, little gems, broad beans, beetroot, rhubarb and strawberries.

The beds were very successful, and due to the fairly easy run we had we were able to move onto our paddock (to the rear of the pub) quicker than we had originally planned. We started by building a chicken enclosure where we keep 15 chickens and 4 ducks, Thanks to these little ladies we haven’t had to buy an egg for a long time!

Next on the ‘to-do’ list were the larger raised beds where we now have six 12ft x 6ft raised beds that produce salads, brassicas and much more. Finally we built the pigpen which houses four Welsh/saddleback crosses. The pigs are coming along very nicely and we’re looking forward to using the first two in just over a month.

July was a very busy month for the garden.

I had quite an extraordinary crop of salads, with the little gems being the most

successful – even with our busy lunchtime trade we’re struggling to use them all.

August is flourishing too and our radishes and beetroot are becoming regular features on the lunchtime menu.

As a word of advice to the novice gardener or smallholder, I would say plan as much as possible and don’t be afraid to try new things. Apart from a couple of hiccups, almost everything we’ve planted has been a real success. � T: 01225 782949 W: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk

WHAT TO SOW: At the moment we’re beginning to plant purple sprouting broccoli, leeks, winter cabbage, red kale and some herbs. We’re also getting the ground ready for our winter crops, which will be onions and some carrots, which are to be sown in September. We’ll keep a close eye on them so when they begin to show we can cover them in fleece for the colder months.

WHAT TO PICK NOW: Green Beans Mange Tout Peas Beetroot Radishes

45

COMBE HOUSE At Combe House, Devon you’ll find exceptional food in a wonderful country setting, carefully chosen wines and generous hospitality. Listed as one of the most romantic hotels in Great Britain, you will find yourself falling in love all over again. www.combehousedevon.com Combe House at Gittisham, nr Exeter EX14 3AD Tel: 01404 540400

• Fruit • Vegetables • Dairy • Bread Quality ingredients for restaurant kitchens in the West Wilts and Bath area. Local produce grown exclusively for us including specialist crops.

‘If you are passionate about your food we’d like to talk to you’

01225 708838 lovejoys@live.com Lovejoys Melksham

Enjoy 2 courses for £10.95 from the Plats Rapides Menu, available everyday from 12 noon.

Alternatively select from the Prix Fix Set Lunch Menu, available everyday from 12-5pm.

Cafe Rouge have teamed up with Cinema de Lux in Cabot Circus offering 2 for 1 on all main courses from the a la carte menu on the presentation of a valid cinema ticket. T&Cs apply.

Cafe Rouge, Cabot Circus. 01179 544808 www.caferouge.co.uk

> flavour

dirty girl diary

DirtyGirl DIARY Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project ‘Dirty Girl Kitchen’. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations that no foodie should be without...

FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS 2010 It is that time of year again, the BBC’s Food and Farming awards have been launched and one of the categories in this year’s awards is Best Food Market. They are looking for the market that best serves its local community, providing fresh, high quality and affordable food. So jump online and vote for one of the many incredible flourishing food markets we have in the South West. The closing date for entries is 15 August 2010.

Visit www.bbc.co.uk to cast your vote now.

JUST TOMATOES

VANISHING OF THE BEES

August is such a great month for produce and I have to say that I am ever so proud of my tomatoes this year. I managed for the first time ever to grow Heirlooms (as you can see below some from market) and after many experiments with recipe after recipe the one that shone through was just a simple buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad. Just slice the ripest of tomatoes and rip up some shreds of mozzarella – as you know my favourite is Laverstoke Park’s which is available in selected Waitrose and Sainsbury’s stores.

Drizzle some really good quality olive oil, salt and pepper and fresh basil….

Delicious!

Yes, the bees are continuing to disappear and without them we would not have all of the fantastic produce we are eating this summer. No tomatoes, no carrots, no apricots. Nothing. So if you have not seen it please do yourself a favour and watch Vanishing of the Bees. It is a really fantastic documentary and will help you to do your little bit toward saving the bees.

Available at www.amazon.co.uk 47

> flavour

spanish wine revisited

  

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

The view from the Wine Museum at Briones in the Rioja Region of Northern Spain, looking across to San Vicente de la Sonsierra. The museum Dinastia Vivanco, brings the winemaking process to life in vivid detail, from its historical roots to the present day. This museum of wine culture houses an enormous array of winerelated paraphernalia, art and a working winery and cellar.

48

Spanish wines often get a bad press – completely undeservedly. Ask most people what they know about wines from Spain and they’ll answer ‘Rioja, and er, sherry?’

A hangover from the ‘70s and ‘80s of cheap, offensive red and whites served to the British holidaymaker has given Spain a real challenge in bringing their wines up to the mark to compete with the other global giants.

And to be fair to them, they’ve done just that.

One area of expertise the Spanish wineries

are not famous for is fresh, vibrant whites with lots of aroma. But that’s exactly where their growing success is coming from.

Hidden gems from lesser known grape varieties are becoming, well, better known, and really marking Spain on the map for something more than its traditional (but fabulous nonetheless) Riojas.

Read on for a selection of what Spain's vineyards have to offer – and where you can find them around the area.

> flavour

The Albarino grape, most commonly grown on the Northern coasts of Spain, is rocketing in popularity and is the perfect choice for those who love aromatic whites but with a dry steeliness which makes it the perfect match for shellfish (unsurprising really, given its coastal heritage).

Albarino is also an ideal partner with tomato based dishes – a notoriously difficult ingredient to match to wine.

Pebble Beach in Barton on Sea has glorious views over to the Needles from its alfresco dining area. Try the Leiras Albarino with the squid and chorizo starter or gambas. The wine partners the spice beautifully. http://www.pebblebeach-uk.com/

Gonzalez Byass Altozano's Verdejo is another lesser-known but equally delicious wine.

Classic flavours are stone fruits and citrus, making it another great match for seafood and also lighter vegetarian dishes.

Altozano’s appetising example is a blend with Sauvignon Blanc, which adds to the intense fruit flavours and floral aromas. Available at the Royal Duchy Hotel in Falmouth – pair with mussels or summer vegetable risotto. http://www.brendhotels.co.uk/TheRoyalDuchy/ Home.cfm

No Spanish wine review would be complete without a nod to the world famous Rioja grape – Tempranillo. Less well known than the region itself, this grape is grown throughout Spain and many regions are making wines from Tempranillo which are as good as – dare I say sometimes better – than those from Rioja itself. Raimat Vina 43 Tempranillo from DO Costers del Segre in

NE Spain is from the area’s first 100% sustainable vineyard. It is a great wine, full of dark cherry flavours and just as good to drink alone as with food.

For a friendly pub atmosphere, try Café Rene in Gloucester. Specialising in steaks, burgers and grills – all a fantastic match for the Raimat Tempranillo. www.caferene.co.uk

For the growing number of rosé drinkers, Spain has an array of wines to offer. From juicy strawberry flavours to crisp, refreshing modern styles, every palate is catered for. Gonzalez Byass Altozano Tempranillo Shiraz is made in the latter dry, crisp style, balanced with red berry flavours.

Try it at Wyck Hill House Hotel in Stow on the Wold – set in 100 acres of ground, making it the ideal setting for a lazy afternoon with a glass of rosé. If you’re eating in the restaurant run by awardwinning chef David Kelman, look out for dishes with a little spice or pickle. This wine is also a great match for salad dressings. www.bespokehotels.com/wyckhillhouse

Cava is Spain’s answer to Champagne.

Made in the same method and often using Champagne grapes – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – it offers a top quality and seriously good value sparkling experience.

Codorniu Cava is Spain’s favourite sparkling wine and offers a range of Brut, Vintage and Rosé to the UK market.

Try Codorniu Clasico Brut NV at Funki Sushi & Asian Grill in Bournemouth, a beautiful rooftop restaurant overlooking a roof terrace with fantastic views.

spanish wine revisited

At the Lord Haldon Hotel in Exeter, the Codorniu Pinot Noir Brut Rosé NV is available, bursting with summer-fruit flavours. This would make a lovely accompaniment to the smoked salmon starter with chilli and ginger relish, or smoked trout with mixed leaves and honey and mustard dressing. www.lordhaldonhotel.co.uk

Sherry used to get a dreadful press in the UK – madness given the breadth of styles and quality available.

Gonzalez Byass Elegante Fino is the perfect palate cleanser and aperitif, with fruit flavours and a hint of spice. Try it at the Old Thatched Cottage in Weston-super-Mare, a beautiful 18th century restaurant overlooking the bay. www.theoldthatchedcottage.com

At the other end of the sherry spectrum is Gonzalez Byass Noe, 30 yr old Pedro Ximenez. This is one of the world’s oldest and rarest dessert wines, with concentrated aromas of raisins, figs and Christmas spices.

Don’t miss out on the opportunity to try it at Salcombe Harbour Hotel, in a stunning location with wide terraces to watch the sun set. Desserts such as chocolate fondant or a cheese board (a great alternative to port) would be ideal for Noe, however a glass as a digestif alone would be equally indulgent. www.salcombe-harbourhotel.co.uk

This Cava is a great match with sushi dishes – and also makes a great aperitif. www.funkisushi.co.uk

49

> flavour

archangel

archangel Never one to succumb to any type of hype without suspicion, this month Faye Allen spends an evening in Frome to see what all the whispering has been about with the area’s newest addition, the Archangel…

As a Bath resident I proceed to write the following statement with slightly rosy cheeks: Frome has never struck me as worth a visit. Before I risk receiving any abusive emails I will wholeheartedly put my hands up and admit to making a very judgemental mistake. Driving through the centre, the place was utterly charming.

Tradition and beauty hit me slap bang in my red face and I was sorry for never making the thirty minute drive from home before now.

I was excited. For the first time since my fast fading New Years resolutions, I was finally seeing one through. Here I was trying a ‘new thing for the day’ and enjoying every moment. I’d heard a lot of hype about the Archangel, a new hotel, restaurant and bar that had popped up in the centre of Frome, but I refused to listen too hard. As a market town, I was expecting a foodie atmosphere and naturally assumed that a town which was becoming very in vogue would be seeing a turn around of a new café and restaurant culture.

As we stood in front of the entrance, my shoulders however, quickly dropped and I realised we were in the presence of something a bit different and quite special.

Once upon a time the Archangel formed life as a coaching inn, with some parts stretching back to the Doomsday Book, while more contemporary parts were added in the 18th Century, evidence of which has been lovingly preserved everywhere you look. The walls of exposed brick and patina give signs of a former life, along with the undercover medieval ‘street’, which runs down the centre of the building, separating the bedrooms from the restaurant and bar 50

from living areas. Finishing touches of postmodern glass, steel and copper create a beautiful space of luxuriously rustic style.

The restaurant has all the familiarities of a rustic farmhouse with a very modern twist.

The old barn walls enclosed us in modern lighting and fresh mustard leather seating and oak tables. All making for an easy space to feel comfortable and relaxed in.

Starting with Szechuan pork fillet, red cabbage purée, sweet orange and shallot vinaigrette (£6), was a refreshing delight.

The pork was tender and light, a sweet touch with the orange and drizzled vinaigrette which was welcomed along with the stunning presentation. Colour clearly forms an integral part to the menu, complementing the flavours as well as the season. An observation proven correct in my guest’s chosen dish of the rich and fruity spiced aubergine, crispy mozzarella (£6) and a glass of almost too delicate but refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine Guy Allion (£3.50).

A main of tandoori monkfish, cucumber tzatziki, curried mushy peas and cumin oil (£16.50) was, according to opinion, delicious. An Indian influence weaving its way through a British menu made for a refreshing change. I chose the lamb, red pepper piperade, hummus and chickpeas (£15). Cooked to rare perfection, the sweet peppery sauce and stunning choice of simple herbs and in season veg accommodated head chef John Melican’s wishes of getting back to basics – cooking great food with minimal ingredients.

The homemade mango sorbet (£5) was

everything you could have hoped for and the chocolate fondant served on a warm dish with homemade vanilla ice cream (£6) showed the mindset of a chef who understands what a lover of chocolate is after in a dessert.

The menu changes daily and each time you visit you will find seasonal tweaks, an odd vegetable swapped here and there or a sauce adapted to what was available from the local suppliers on the day.

Everything about this visit could have been summed up in one word – refreshing.

Seeing the British menu make a strong and competitive revival has been a joy to watch but seeing one as imaginative, creative and as fun as this was a real pleasure. Feeling well fed but not uncomfortable made for a change from a three course, very British, meal.

And as for Frome? It’s quirky nature and undeniable charm made me rectify my ways – for another year at least.�

Archangel 1 King Street Frome Somerset BA11 1BH 01373 456111 www.archangelfrome.com

> flavour

archangel

The walls of exposed brick and patina give signs of a former life, along with the undercover medieval ‘street’, which runs down the centre of the building

51

> flavour

52

chef profile

> flavour

chef profile

chef profile

Name: Matt Duggan Head chef at: The Harbourside Originally from: Cardiff

Two colleagues and I joined the team at the Harbourside a week before the opening.

The brief was different to a lot places around the area and I was intrigued. The owners have a clear vision of where they want to be and so do I. I think we are on the right path so far.

homemade butter using cream from Hardwick and our fish supplier only stocks UK caught fish whose quality is unbeatable.

Our oysters come from the River Exe, one of the cleanest rivers in the UK and our meat is local in Bath. I could continue but hopefully you get the idea!

I’ve worked in various places, from branded restaurants and hotels to gastro pubs. Each place represents its own challenges, whether it be ten hours of prep for a three hour service, or vice versa. What remains the staple in any environment I’ve been in is the quality of the food. For me it's all about British produce and making a play on British classics.

Menus are tweaked on a day-to-day basis and some dishes are in planning for weeks. Our duck ham takes 3-4 weeks to cure, we've also got bressola, salt coley and lamb bacon hanging, waiting for that special day on the calendar to come. We have a British tasters menu for those wishing for a lighter bite. All you need to do is sit down, drink and enjoy the environment whilst having your taste buds pleased.

The Harbourside is much more than a venue – it’s about bringing sophistication and originality back to the waterfront with a fresh new design. We offer a tapas bar, alfresco and indoor dining, a tea and flower lounge, a live performance area, a seafood counter and outdoor farmers’ market.

The buzzwords of fresh, seasonal and local are overused nowadays, but we really mean it. We bake bread every morning using flour sourced from Tetbury,

It’s been a whirlwind from getting the goahead to opening the doors but we’re taking big strides towards putting The Harbourside on the map. Our menu will develop with the seasons and new and more varied suppliers. We’ve recently just opened for breakfasts, offering dishes such as full English with homemade baked beans, homemade granary toast, and smoked mackerel with bubble and squeek.

I eat fine food every day, just without the comfort of my sofa! If you were to open my fridge at the moment, you wouldn’t find much apart from a pig leg hanging- only another 19 months and she's ready. I couldn’t live without pork on my menu, I’m a true meat lover at heart and the varied choice of pig around here is fantastic.

So many meals I’ve had to cook have left an impression on me. Last New Years Eve at my previous job we filled out the restaurant with pre-booked diners awaiting a ten-course taster menu. The customers had no idea what they were in store for until it was presented to them. It was a wild day, full of the usual pressures and stresses but the feeling of walking out onto the restaurant floor to a room full of delighted, cheering guests was pretty incredible.�

The Harbourside Unit 1 1 Cannons Road Bristol BS1 5TX 01179 272998 53

Beautiful award winning

cheeses, hand-made on the farm and full of natural goodness from our organic herd of fresian cows.

Visit our

Cheese Shop

at Park Farm, Kelston ( just 2 miles west of Bath on A431 )

International Cheese Awards

GOLD Nantwich Show 2 0 10

National Cheese Awards

The Bath Soft Cheese Co. Park Farm, Kelston, Bath BA1 9AG Telephone: 01225 331601 Email:sales@parkfarm.co.uk www.parkfarm.co.uk

GOLD

Royal Bath & West Show 2 0 10

Don’t forget to check our website for more information on events coming up this year!

Winsley, Bradford on Avon BA15 2JB [t] 01225 864948 www.hartley-farm.co.uk

> flavour

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

sian blunos

FRUIT

Braised pork with apricots This sounds like a grown-up dish, but it’s suitable for little ones as well.

The apricots give it a lovely tangy flavour, which works really well with the pork.

Makes 6-8 portions • 275g shoulder of pork, finely diced • 15g flour • 25g unsalted butter • 15ml sunflower oil • 1 small onion, peeled and chopped • 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely

diced • 1 medium leek, chopped • 570ml unsalted chicken or pork stock • 1 bay leaf • 2 fresh apricots (or 4 dried and soaked), chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C, 325°F 2 Dust the pork with the flour. Put the butter and oil into a heavy-bottomed, ovenproof pan over a medium heat.

Add the pork and fry for about 5 minutes until brown. Add the onion, carrot and leek and continue to brown for a further 4 minutes.

3 Cover with the stock add the bay leaf and bring to the boil. Cover, transfer to the oven and cook for about 1 hour. Add the apricots and cook in the oven for a further 15 minutes or until tender.

4 Leave to cool and remove the bay leaf. Blend in a food processor or leave chunky for older children.

Divide into portions and serve or freeze.

I love apricots, they bring back so many warm memories of my childhood. I spent many hours of my summer holidays with my grandparents in North Wales where we would make regular visits to the local fruit and veg shop. I remember the wonderful smells of all the summer fruits and in particular, my own treat: a small brown paper bag crammed full of fresh apricots, all bursting with flavour and colour.

Apricots are members of the rose family and are closely related to the plum, peach, cherry, and almond. Like peaches and plums, apricots are drupes, that is, a stone fruit that develops from self-pollinating white flowers. The fruits are a yellow/orange colour and have a “seam” that runs around it, almost dividing it into halves. The skins are fuzzy and velvety, flushed with pink. The flesh is firm, sweet and fragrant but contains little juice.

Apricots do not ripen after being picked, they only soften, so the flavour never improves if picked green and allowed to sit.

The kernel is edible, but care must be taken not to consume more than one or two because of the prussic acid. These kernels are placed in jars whole and are used to flavour jams. They are later discarded.

Apricots grew wild for thousands of years in China, where they were first cultivated.

Today, apricots are extensively cultivated in California, Israel, Syria, Turkey, Iran and Spain. The deeper the colour of an apricot, the more vitamin A it contains. Vitamin A protects eyesight and its large betacarotene and lycopene content also provides immunity to heart related disease.

Apricots are also loaded with vitamin C and

good amounts of vitamin E, K and B. Iron, calcium, silicon, phosphorus, apricots have a good amount of fibre which helps to keep our little one’s digestive systems healthy.

Dried apricots have a far greater nutritional value than choosing fresh because all the nutrients are concentrated. This also applies to the sugar content too so just be aware when little teeth bite into these little fruits!

Apricots have a good amount of fibre which keeps children’s digestive systems healthy.

They are so versatile that they can be eaten raw or cooked, dried, canned or frozen and can be served in countless ways in either sweet or savoury dishes.

COOKING FOR COCO Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn't have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too.

With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com

55

The freshest fish available in the shop or delivered to your door. “This place is a gem�

The Times Top 10 UK Fishmongers, July 2010

Traditional Fishmonger Seafood Deli Home Delivery Cookery School

Brand new home delivery service to Bath & surrounding area.

Visit www.thescallopshell.co.uk to order.

Special Offer for Flavour Magazine readers: for your first home delivery order we’ll include 2 of our best selling homemade fishcakes absolutely free – Quote Flavour100 when ordering.

The Scallop Shell, Whiterow Farm, Beckington, Frome 01373 831641 www.thescallopshell.co.uk info@thescallopshell.co.uk

.ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP 4HE VERY BEST LOCAL AND ORGANIC FOODS

$ELI #HEESE TASTING EVERY 3ATURDAY WITH *ENNY 'ANE OUR AWARD WINNING CHEESE JUDGE

""1gS EVERY WEEKEND THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER WEATHER DEPENDING -ANY MORE EVENTS PLEASE LOOK AT OUR WEBSITE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION

.EWLY EXTENDED CAFE /RGANICALLY REARED MEAT FROM THE .ESTON 0ARK %STATE 7IDE SELECTION OF ARTISAN BREADS

&INEST DELI WITH VARIETY OF LOCAL AND ORGANIC CHEESES MEATS AND ANTIPASTI .ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP -EAT "OXES DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

&REE NATURE TRAIL PLAY AREA AND ANIMALS FOR CHILDREN /PEN -ONDAY TO 3ATURDAY AM PM 3UNDAY AM PM &OR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT .ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP ON .ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP ,TD "ATH 2D !TWORTH 3. (0 WWW NESTONPARKFARMSHOP COM 7E ALSO HAVE A SHOP IN "RADFORD ON !VON n 4HE #HEESE "OARD A 3ILVER 3TREET

(XURSHDQ $JULFXOWXUDO )XQG IRU 5XUDO 'HYHORSPHQW (XURSH LQYHVWLQJ LQ UXUDO DUHDV

> flavour

Fish is high on the agenda for most people’s summer menus, yet many of us can be intimidated when it comes to cooking up the fruits of the sea. Deciding on the best preparation and cooking methods for the type of fish you have, as well as matching it with the tastiest ingredients available, can be enough to knock even a capable cook’s confidence, forcing them to stick to a safer dish.

Making things as easy as possible for the customer is something that Garry Rosser, owner of The Scallop Shell set in the idyllic Whiterow Farm in Frome, aims to provide at his counter: “We don’t get as excited about fish in this country compared to the rest of Europe, we’re scared by it. A lot of people blame themselves if the fish dish doesn’t go well. In reality, the mistake probably already happened back at the fishmonger’s because bad quality fish won’t cook well.”

Reassurance, encouragement and passion radiates from this engaging entrepreneur.

With over 20 years’ experience working as a chef in Bath and Bristol’s top restaurants, 10 years of which were dedicated to working closely with Fish Work’s creator Mitch Tonks, Garry is more than qualified at pointing you in the right direction. “I’m trying to put fish back on the table and show people how easy and delicious great fresh fish can be – there’s nothing else quite like it.”

drops by

amazing experience. The training was tough but I learnt a lot and was excited to start up on my own. I couldn’t believe my luck when I teamed up with Steve here who owns Whiterow.”

Despite seafood sustainability being a hot topic among consumers, there’s a lot of conflicting advice over what to buy. “A lot of people are confused at the moment,” says Garry. “The best thing they can do to help the situation is to buy different species, don’t just stick to the favourites. Often you’ll come across a variety that is tastier and cheaper.”

Sourcing the best quality from the best suppliers is essential for Garry, with stocks coming up from the three major markets on the South coast. Garry’s main supplier is Channel Fisheries, and if it’s good enough for Buckingham Palace, then it is good enough for his customers. “I never know what’s going to come in that day. This morning I pulled out a beautiful sea bass and the quality was just incredible.” On a Tuesday and Friday Garry buys direct from small boats in Weymouth, meaning that within 24 hours of being caught the fish can be on the menu.

A few minutes in Garry’s company will convince you that eating fish every night would be perfectly plausible. If you’re in any doubt, why not take the plunge and pay him a visit…

Garry continues: “Working with Mitch was an

flavour

drops by...

the scallop shell The Scallop Shell Whiterow Farm Shop Beckington Frome BA11 6TN 01373 831641 www.thescallopshell.co.uk

The Scallop Shell , a traditional fishmonger, seafood deli and cookery school, now offers a home delivery service.

57

Earth, fire and water are the three elements that make up Bluestone, a garden design and build service which provides a full garden living experience. Through Bluestone, owner Ben Pike brings together his two passions; outdoor entertaining and beautiful garden design, enabling you to live at the heart of your own rural retreat.

Based at Middlecombe Nursery in Congresbury, North Somerset, Bluestone provide a friendly and professional service, from concept through to completion.

Garden Design Studio, Middlecombe Nursery Wrington Road, Congresbury North Somerset BS49 5AN

01934 876355 / 07990 572698 www.bluestonewater.com

> flavour

reader review

R E D A E R

REVIEW

THE SWAN INN AT NIBLEY

BY JANE GALE, YATE

My husband and I recently decided to treat our two adult sons to a meal at The Swan in Nibley. The recommendation came from friends who had fallen in love so much with their meals at The Swan that they are now newly converted regulars.

We booked our meal for last Saturday and were glad we did as during the course of the evening we played witness to many a person being turned away. The staff are friendly and welcoming and even to those customers they couldn’t seat, they offered to phone the sister pub, The Squire Inn in Chipping Sodbury, to see if they could be accommodated there.

My husband ordered from the specials board and had the slow roasted rack of lamb in a redcurrant jus on a bed of spring onion mashed potato, whilst I had the salmon in a citrus glaze with fresh asparagus and sauté potatoes. One of our sons chose the duck from the main menu, cooked pink and with a cranberry, port and orange sauce, whilst the other opted for the sea bass fillets with king prawns in a lemon butter sauce.

Judging by the spectacular presentation, the chef obviously has an eye for colour as well as complementary flavours. The wine list is extensive and it caters for most tastes. We chose the French Robert Skalli Pinot Noir, which was a perfect match for the duck and lamb. The New Zealand Nobilo Southern Rivers Sauvignon Blanc was another fine choice to sit with the salmon and sea bass.

We all thoroughly enjoyed our meals and just about squeezed in a dessert. The temptation was far too high as they were brought over to our table in order to tempt us. If you are in any doubt as to whether or not you should have a dessert, then you will soon be swayed!

To finish we enjoyed brandy and coffee whilst relaxing on the very comfortable leather sofas. Sipping on warming after dinner drinks in front of a large fire and coffee table must be very welcoming in the dark winter evenings. The manager even mentioned they supply marshmallows and skewers to toast in front of the fire.

The whole experience was one which we would thoroughly recommend and we are proud to announce we are now joining the growing band of regulars who enjoy fine food, wine and excellent service. We have subsequently found out that this is a familyrun business and the constant care and attention to detail are evident. We will definitely be booking for next Saturday. �

The Swan Inn at Nibley Badminton Road Nibley BS37 5JF 01454 312290 www.theswanatnibley.co.uk

Tell us about your favourite place to eat by writing to us at the usual address or emailing faye@flavourmagazine.com We’ll even give you one year’s free subscription for your troubles!

59

> flavour

cornubia

The centre of Bristol is changing. Everywhere you look there are cranes and construction sites: signs that the city is a thriving and robust 21st Century metropolis. But look a little closer and an older, gentler Bristol is not too hard to find...

the cornubia Take The Cornubia, for example. Set back from Temple Street, dwarfed by surrounding office buildings and a fire brigade training tower, sits this traditional one bar pub that is fast gaining a reputation as a real ale mecca.

Pick your way behind the car parks of small local businesses and you will enter a tranquil haven from the hustle and bustle outside. Far from the bland homogeneity of branded pubs designed by a marketing committee back at HQ, you meet with an enchanting hotch potch of furniture and fixtures. Here, a high-backed wooden settle; there, a row of high chairs ranged against reading shelves with an eclectic collection of non-fiction books. Through the archway, more traditional tables and chairs.

The walls are adorned with real ale pump clips. And yes, those are live turtles in the tank in the corner.

The Cornubia 142 Temple Street Bristol BS1 6EN 0117 925 4415 www.thecornubia.com 60

Built for a wig-maker named Charles Cox around 1775, long before The Floating Harbour or Brunel’s Suspension Bridge, it has been a pub since 1859, and was the brewery tap of George’s Brewery, and subsequently a training and hospitality pub for the Courage brewery.

The unusual name comes from the SS Cornubia, a packet ship that plied its trade

between Bristol and Hayle in Cornwall (or Cornubia as the Romans had called it) in the days before Brunel’s Great Western Railway had been extended that far west.

The SS Cornubia – incidentally – was later purchased by the American Confederacy and saw active service in the American Civil War. These days, the pub is in the hands of the Hidden Brewery not far from Salisbury, but is run independently by Phil & Jacki Bennett. The atmosphere is of an understated but nevertheless warm

> flavour

cornubia

Raise a glass to...

Quantock Stout (4.5%) A traditional stout with a real roasted barley aroma and a moreish dryness.

GWB Summer Nights (3.8%) A thoroughly quaffable straw coloured, soft mellow beer from Hambrook near Bristol.

Yeovil BST (3.8%) A citrus, zesty pale ale with a clean crisp taste. Smells to me of lemon or even grapefruit.

Goffs Excalibur (4.5%) From Winchcombe near Cheltenham, a golden ale whose lack of bitterness makes it deceptively drinkable for its strength.

Arbor Old Knobbley (4.5%) A dark ruby old ale from Bristol, with a hint of warming chocolate and coffee. A lovely beer for when the summer isn’t as warm as you would like.

welcome. There is informal chatter and unobtrusive music in the background, proving this is a place where it is easy to leave the stresses and strains of working life at the door.

Simple bar food such as homemade soup, baguettes, jacket potatoes, rolls and Black Country pork pies are on offer, but there is no doubt that this is a pub aimed squarely at the discerning drinker.

direct from plastic polypins are Broadoak’s KB Cider and Premium Perry which, at 7.5%, are very sensibly only sold in halves.

The Cornubia is ten minutes’ walk from Bristol Temple Meads station and is close to a number of bus routes. There is a small car park and pay-and-display parking on the surrounding streets. �

Hidden Pint (3.8%) A tangy mid-brown bitter from Salisbury. It is ideal for those who like to be able to taste the malt in their beer.

Hidden Spring (3.8%) Also from the Salisbury brewery. This is a ruby coloured fruity beer that has a richness about it that almost puts you in mind of a redcurrant jam.

Distinctive and memorable.

Duncan Shine

At any one time there are seven different real ales, up to three traditional ciders and a real perry. The selection changes daily and no one real ale is there for more than three days or so. You can always tell a good real ale pub by the care that has gone into choosing the variety of beers on offer. Real ale has as much variety as wine does and the choice at the Cornubia is designed to appeal to all palates and moods.

Because the beers sell out so quickly, there is very little risk of a beer in a tired or poor condition getting to the pump, so this is an excellent venue to sample the beers as they should taste.

In addition to the real ales, there is Thatcher’s Cheddar Valley Farmhouse Cider, a bright orange cider which at 6.5% is stronger than it tastes. Also available 61

The Blue Bowl Inn

THE LOVELIEST FISH &CHIPS IN THE SOUTH WEST!

Country Pub & Restaurant

PAPA’S

Good food, well kept ales and a warm welcome!

FISH RESTAURANT A N D TA K E AWAY

Independently voted by Daily Mirror readers as the Best Fish & Chips in the South Wes

~

t!

Recent winners of The Regeneration Partners hip and Weston Mercury and Star FM’s Business of the Year Award

The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ Papa’s Fish Restaurant and Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~ Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com

The Catherine Wheel A pub with a buzz

Marshfield, the gateway to the Cotswolds and just a few miles north of Bath, is at the centre of many spectacular countryside walks. The Catherine Wheel, nestled in the picturesque high street, is renowned for its traditional home cooked food.

Lunch alfresco in the sheltered sunny courtyard or, when the autumn chill sets in, make the most of the welcoming and warming fires.

39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR Tel: 01225 892220 Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk

Tel. 01761 221269 www.thebluebowl.co.uk

GOOD FOOD STARTS HERE A traditional Food Hall in the historic heart of Bristol, where the skilled preparation of ingredients is performed before you by knowledgeable and friendly staff.

Complementing this is our Café, which allows you to enjoy our amazing produce cooked by our talented chefs in a busy market atmosphere.

SOURCE. 1-3 EXCHANGE AVE, SAINT NICHOLAS MARKET, BRISTOL, BS1 1JW

INFO@SOURCE-FOOD.CO.UK 0117 9272998

> flavour

E ADVERTIS HERE! W

directory

directory

COUNTRY CATERING

OUR NO CALL FLAV 9188 9 77 TEL: 0117

Welcome to the flavour directory. Updated monthly, this directory is your essential guide to featured businesses, organisations and producers in Bristol, Bath and the surrounding areas. For our more comprehensive online directory, visit www.flavourmagazine.com

Jackie Wallis provides interesting menus, first class service and event coordination for weddings, celebrations and special occasions throughout the West Country.

Country Catering Marina Cottage, Alston Sutton, Upper Weare Nr. Axbridge, Somerset BS26 2LS Tel: 01934 732189 Visit: www.countrycatering.me.uk

BALMORAL HOTEL

BART SPICES

BETTER FOOD CO.

Friendly, family-run hotel, restaurant and bar in the heart of Weston-super-Mare. Full à la carte menu served daily.

A passion for offering the most wonderful range of herbs, spices and coconut products allows you to recreate and enjoy wonderful dishes from every corner of the world in your own home.

Bristol's truly local award-winning organic supermarket, cafe, grower and veg box delivery service.

Balmoral Hotel 66 Walliscote Rd, Weston-s-Mare BS23 1ED Tel: 01934 633033 Visit:wwwwbalmoralhotelandstottiesbar.co.uk

Bart Spices Tel: 0117 977 3474 Visit: www.bartspices.com

Better Food Co. The Proving House, Sevier Street, St Werburghs, Bristol BS2 9QS. Tel: 0117 935 1725 Visit: www.betterfood.co.uk

BELTANE BED & BREAKFAST

BRISTOL SWEET MART

BISTRO 507

We’re within walking distance of Wells, next to beautiful open countryside. We have spacious guest rooms, king size beds with crisp white linen and delicious, freshly cooked breakfasts!

The shop sits in the heart of an ethnically vibrant community. Specialists in spices, ethnic foods, frozen halal and seafoods. New in store is the lovely deli selling chilled and hot food.

“More than just great food!”

Lunch and evening dining, Tues to Sat 12.003.00 and 18.30-22.00, Sun 12.00-15.00 and Weds breakfast 8.30-11.00.

Beltane Bed and Breakfast Dulcote, Wells, Somerset BA5 3NU Tel: 01749 671040 / 07801 654252 Visit: www.beltanebandb.co.uk

Bristol Sweet Mart St. Marks Road, Easton, Bristol BS5 6JH Tel: 01179 512257

Bistro 507 507 Bath Road, Salford, Bristol BS31 3HQ Tel: 01225 873108

THATCHERS CIDER

CAFE KINO

COUNTRY CUPCAKES

For orchard fresh Thatchers cider visit our Myrtle Farm Cider Shop, Monday-Saturday 9am-6pm, Sunday and bank holidays 10am1pm.

Friendly, vegan, vegetarian community cafe.

Enjoy fresh homemade sandwiches and light meals as well as organic beers, wines and ciders.

Our delicious cupcakes are made from the finest ingredients and delightfully finished by hand.

Thatchers Cider Shop Myrtle Farm, Sandford, Somerset BS25 5RA Tel: 01934 822862 Visit: www.thatcherscider.co.uk

Cafe Kino Kingsdown, 3 Ninetree Hill, Bristol BS1 3SB Tel: 0117 9249 200

Country Cupcakes Tel: 07801 280910 Email: nikki@countrycupcakes.com Visit: www.countrycupcakes.com

63

> flavour

directory

PULLINS BAKER

RIVERFORD

RIVERSIDE GARDEN CENTRE CAFE

We've been baking in Somerset since 1925, creating beautiful artisan loaves using traditional methods, real ingredients and family recipes.

Riverford Organic Vegetable Boxes are now available for home delivery in North Somerset, Bristol, Bath and surrounding areas.

Open daily with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating. Food/drink is suitable for vegetarians and is organic, fairtrade and mostly locally sourced.

Pullins Baker Tel: 01934 832135 Visit: www.pullinsbakers.co.uk

Riverford Organic Vegetable Boxes Order today, Tel: 0845 600 3211 Visit: www.riverford.co.uk

Riverside Garden Centre Cafe Clift House, Southville, Bristol BS3 1RX Tel: 01179 667535

RONNIE'S RESTAURANT

STON EASTON PARK

THE BATH PRIORY

In the heart of Thornbury, Ronnie’s offers lovingly prepared food and exceptional service in a fresh and stylish setting.

A superb mansion set in one of the West Country's most romantic estates, exuding elegance, warmth and comfort.

Michelin-starred and 3 AA Rosette awardwinning restaurant where you can enjoy lunch or dinner with a view.

Ronnie's Restaurant 11 St. Mary Street, Thornbury, Bristol BS35 2AB Tel: 01454 411137 Visit:www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

Ston Easton Park Ston Easton, Somerset BA3 4DF Tel: 01761 241631 Visit: www.stoneaston.co.uk

The Bath Priory Weston Road, Bath BA1 2XT Tel: 01225 331922 Visit: www.thebathpriory.co.uk

THE CHOCOLATE TART

THE PONY & TRAP

THE FOLK HOUSE CAFÉ & BAR

Chocolate workshops for 'people who love chocolate'! Great on your own or in a party.

Gift vouchers available.

Visit us at our 200-year-old country cottage pub/restaurant for a memorable dining experience.

The Folk House Café & Bar produces delicious, fresh and affordable food using organic, local and seasonal ingredients.

The Chocolate Tart The Old Malthouse, Congresbury BS49 5BD Tel: 01934 876881 Visit: www.thechocolatetart.co.uk

The Pony & Trap Knowle Hill, Newton, Chew Magna BS40 8TQ Tel: 01275 332627 Visit: www.theponyandtrap.co.uk

The Folk House Café & Bar 40a Park Street, Bristol, BS1 5JG Tel: 0117 908 5035 Visit: www.bristolfolkhouse.co.uk

TRETHOWAN'S DAIRY

THE STAR INN

JACQUELINE’S RESTAURANT

JACQUELINE'S RESTAURANT Offering a range of our own cheese, Gorwydd Caerphilly, made on the family farm in West Wales, and our other favourite cheeses from small producers.

Trethowan's Dairy The Glass Arcade, St Nicholas Mkt, Bristol Tel: 0117 9020332 Visit: www.trethowansdairy.co.uk

64

The 16th Century pub is one of only two pubs in the city to make the main listings in the 2004 Good Pub Guide.

The Star Inn 23 The Vineyards, Bath BA1 5NA Tel: 01225 425 072 Visit: www.star-inn-bath.co.uk

We produce the finest products using locally sourced and homegrown fruit and vegetables.

Also available are Jackie’s Country Larder preserves and Chutneys.

Cotswolds88 Hotel Kemps Lane, Painswick, Glous GL6 6YB Tel: 01452 813688 Visit: www.cotswolds88hotel.com

> flavour’s

FLAVOUR’S

food heroes

FOOD HEROES

Feeling inspired by our talented readers, each month flavour will be looking at the unsung heroes of the foodie world – you!

This month we talk to Fiona Morgan whose passion for supporting local and seasonal produce is destined to inspire all of us…

I

f there’s one thing Fiona Morgan is no stranger to, it’s sampling the flavours of the world, whether that be the unique sweet, sour, hot and salty dishes of South East Asia or the aromatic spices of South India, or even the sub tropical, fresh produce and herbs found in Australia.

However, wherever she has been, a passion for British cuisine has always had a settled place within her heart.

When a person has dedicated parts of their career to the foodie world, just because they have a sheer enjoyment for it, or have moved across the country to be closer to food markets and to have their own vegetable patch, or even when a person schedules their holidays around the food on offer, then you know you are in the presence of a true food lover. Something Fiona Morgan radiated as soon as I made contact with her: “I just love cooking and preparing food.

I have been blessed with wonderful food

cooked for me by my family and friends over the years and have eaten in some amazing restaurants. Most of my fondest memories are those around the dinner table!”

Fiona gets herself involved in lots of foodie events, from food festivals to Soil Association talks about food security.

Adopting beehives, signing petitions and getting involved in campaigns such as supporting the amazing varieties of British apples we have access to are just all part of the course. ‘I just like to be really aware of what is going on in the wonderful world of food. There may be over 2000 varieties of apples grown in this country, over 500 types of pears, over 200 varieties of cherries and plums - the list is endless. Why can we only get Braeburn, Gala and Granny Smiths in the supermarkets?”

Having to accommodate coeliac’s disease has meant a change in lifestyle for Fiona, something which she has embraced. “I feel

so much healthier now and have definitely got more energy. It took a while to adapt but it just means you have to be more organised. I love fruit and veg so it wasn’t a big sacrifice.”

Fiona’s passion for great food is bound to get even the biggest novice hooked. As Fiona demonstrates, food is both a personal and social experience and can enrich and inspire our own lives, as well as others.

Signature Dish “I feel so passionate about these amazing little fruits. It’s such a short time of the year that they’re in season so embrace it! I thank my mother for educating me in the pleasure of fresh, seasonal and local fruit so this recipe is dedicated to her with love and thanks.”

GOOSEBERRY FOOL Serves 4 Ingredients 400g gooseberries, topped and tailed 2 tbsp caster sugar 250g double cream (for a healthier version use half crème fraiche and natural yogurt) 200g fresh vanilla custard 3 tbsp elderflower cordial 1.5 tsp vanilla extract 1 Put the gooseberries in a pan with the sugar and 2 tbsp water. Gently stew for 1015 minutes until the gooseberries are soft.

Drain some of the juice if necessary. Leave

>

to cool and mix in the elderflower cordial.

2 Softly whip the cream with the vanilla extract. Fold the cooked gooseberries into the cream.

3 Spoon alternate layers of gooseberry cream and custard into glasses or glass bowls. Decorate with whole cooked gooseberries. Sprinkle with crushed digestive or ginger biscuits or honey-toasted rolled oats for a crunchy top.

TOP TIPS 1 Elderflower cordial is an amazing ingredient – add it to whipped cream desserts like pavlova to add a touch of “je ne sais quoi”.

2 You can turn these ingredients into a Gooseberry Eton Mess – just add crushed meringues to the layers.

Whether you want to give us your favourite brownie recipe or have a friend who breeds their own pigs, please email faye@flavourmagazine.com or call us on 01179 779188.

65

> flavour

food for thought

An Oeuf

is anOeuf

As we eagerly await the arrival of better caged environments for our hens, Nathan Budd takes a look at the marginal differences in quality to negative impact.

The egg is a food that sits so majestically at breakfast, lunch and dinner and has the social mobility to look just at home fried on a shovel, as it does poached in a truffle velouté. An egg can star on its own, but then wows the audience playing supporting roles in pastry, cakes and all manner of sauces.

The trouble is, eggs is not eggs (sic). In fact of the 11 billion eggs consumed in the UK each year, the variation in quality, freshness and animal welfare, may well be a true representation of the rapid post-war decline in food standards and the slow climb back.

If you look at the path eggs have taken, from backyards to mass production, it’s a good indicator of all the wider trends in the UK. Eggs led the way with a drive towards freerange, organic and more recently local and home production, but this is still less than half of the 11 billion consumed. Only when you crack open a fresh, free-range egg do you really notice the dramatic difference in quality and value for money. A fresh organic egg is a joy. An intensely reared, twenty dayold ovum, is a product.

At the Bath food festival last month, I was lucky enough to meet some of the team from local, organic and free-range egg producers, Eggsilicious. Producing eggs to the highest standard of animal welfare, as defined by the Soil Association, Eggsilicious are committed to ensuring the best environment for their hens (and quail) on their Wiltshire farm. As a result they enjoy egg production at levels easily on a par (if 66

not superior) to intensely reared birds. As one of the partners Julian Goodwin points out “you can only get out of animals what you put into it.”

Eggsilicious provide around a hectare of land per thousand hens, well in excess of the standard for free-range birds. They’re allowed to scratch and peck, take dust baths and perch in the sunshine; all in open organic land, which is rich in insect life, thus stimulating natural behaviour. As Julian concludes “when was the last time you saw seagulls following a plough?”

Intense farming on agricultural land is starving it of a natural ecosystem and this is becoming increasingly apparent in the quality of our food. Too much of our egg production is simply artificial.

By 2012 the EU will outlaw conventional barren cages (which still represent around 58% of UK egg production), replacing them with so-called enriched caged environments. These provide additional space per hen (by about the size of a postcard) as well as limited perching, nesting and scratching facilities (areas, which are often protected by more dominant birds). The hens will in many cases still be standing on wire mesh floors and some will still be denied fresh air and sunshine. It’s an improvement, but there is still some way to go.

Even free-range eggs production is not always what it appears. Many of the birds will never actually go outside and the

intensity of the sheds is so high that conditions are not too dissimilar to caged environments, with little scratching and foraging actually occurring. Don’t get me wrong, I know this is by far a better environment. Furthermore, I sympathise with egg producers on tight margins, who have been continuously screwed down on price. I think we have to work together.

The trouble is EU standards are not necessarily transferable. By increasing (even very marginally) the cost of producing eggs in the UK and the wider EU, imports of cheaper caged eggs will find their way into more price sensitive processed foods. Here there is limited labelling on the origin of the eggs used and certainly no information on the conditions of the hens laying them. Even now, the RSPCA estimate that around 85 per cent of eggs used as ingredients in processed foods, are still from hens kept in cages.

So what to do? Well, buy your eggs from local, free-range and better still, organic producers. Eggsilicious supply at a national level, but they also supply to local shops, like Neston Park farm shop and direct to hotels and guest houses, including The Bath Priory. They have also started to deliver direct to homes and offices. Perhaps this is the beginning of a regular egg-round, placing greater emphasis on the importance of eggs, on their quality and on ensuring animal welfare. One can hope so.

It’s time to go to work on eggs. �

UNVEILING AT THE MOUNT SOMERSET THIS OCTOBER Book any one hour facial in October & November and receive free use of the facilities. Quote MS01.

Terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability.

Facilities will include: • A state of the art hydrotherapy pool • A thermal suite which includes a sauna & steam room • Relaxing foot spas • Experience showers • Beautiful treatment rooms offering [comfort zone] treatments • A fitness suite with Technogym equipment • A stunning spa terrace overlooking the gardens • Changing rooms with lockers and complimentary towels

MEMBERSHIPS, DAY PACKAGES AND TREATMENTS AVAILABLE.

For more information call us on 01823 442500 or visit us at www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk The Mount Somerset Lower Henlade Somerset TA3 5NB Telephone 01823 442500 Fax 01823 442900 thespa@themountsomerset.co.uk