flavour for people who love local food
Bristol, Bath & South West | Issue 35 | January 2011
win! Your very own vines from Pebblebed Vineyard!
ÂŁ3 (Where sold)
Flavour Savers
Banish the January blues with our dining out deals
Hip Hops Why real ale is on the rise
Ditch the Diet www.flavourmagazine.com
A guide to a healthier, happier you
The Food of Love Why not avoid the crowds this Valentine’s Day by hiring a private chef to cook the ultimate intimate supper in the comfort of your own home? Our chefs are on hand to cook whatever whets your appetite. They’ll construct a menu with you and give you those little tips gleaned from years of expertise in the trade. We’ll also send a waitress and take care of all the washing up, so all you have to do is concentrate on sitting back and enjoying your evening.
Telephone: 0845 475 0145 www.chefforallseasons.co.uk
Do you need extra staff? The right staff ensure the success of any event, so for the times when you need a helping hand, Plush Staff is at your service. We offer a fresh approach to our client’s staffing requirements and customer satisfaction is paramount to us. It’s that simple.
0845 5678 980
www.plushstaff.co.uk info@plushstaff.co.uk
Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Deputy Editor: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com
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Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Clare Wicks, Account Manager Email: clare@flavourmagazine.com
Welcome to the January issue of flavour!
Charlotte Amos, Account Manager Email: charlotte@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, Toby Roxborough, James Walker Contributors: Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Gregory, Duncan Shine, Ron Faulkner, Clare Morris Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Please send any comments or suggestions to the publisher at the above address.
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For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com
flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize. Please recycle this product.
welcome
contents 8 In Season Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash cook up the best of the season 10 WIN! Your very own vines from Pebblebed Vineyard! 21 Hip Hops Why real ale is on the rise 36 Flavour Savers Banish the January blues with our dining out deals 45 Ditch the Diet A guide to a healthier, happier you
With the decorations hidden away in the loft, the last of the pine needles hoovered up and the thought of another turkey sandwich almost too much to bear, it’s safe to say most of us have probably started 2011 feeling a little lacklustre. But embarking on a gruelling detox of wheatgrass and forking out for a gym membership that’ll dig a bigger hole in your bank balance is, let’s face it, not going to work. Instead let’s get sensible. Adopting a healthy eating plan is a sustainable lifestyle change, not a short-term fix. This means we can still enjoy nourishing food at its best and indulge in the occasional treat, keeping our general wellbeing in tip-top shape all the while. Turn to PAGE 45 for our guide to get you going for a healthier and happier new year. In the spirit of celebrating all things new, we’re really excited about the resurgence of Britain’s heritage drink, real ale. Read all about why to make it your new tipple of choice on PAGE 21 as we talk to some award-winning breweries sat right on our doorstep! Last but not least, we’ve included some irresistible offers on PAGE 36 to ensure that eating out doesn’t get struck off the list. After all we’re foodies, right? We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we enjoyed making it.
Happy Eating! Holly Aurelius-Haddock
> flavour news
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
this month Food and the Big Society The Soil Association is hosting its annual conference in Manchester to discuss the vital role that food can play in making Britain healthier. On the agenda are talks on reducing our carbon footprint, supporting local and national economies and showcasing how food and farming can provide a mechanism for tackling all of this. To book your ticket visit www.soilassociation.org or call 01179 874586
Wonders of the web The launch of a new website is set to revolutionise the way people use cookbooks. www.whatsinmycookbooks. com is a free online tool that makes the link between digital search and real-life books. It shows you exactly where to find ingredients and recipes in your own collection of cookbooks – genius!
Roll up, roll up The Tobacco Factory’s Sunday Farmers’ Market kicks off the new year with a taste of the circus. The red and white striped big top tent adds space to the colourful and buzzing market venue, allowing more room to showcase the best local produce from the area. The next Sunday Market will take place on 9 January from 10am to 2.30pm and every Sunday thereafter. www.tobaccofactory.com
Tara’s Table Why not treat your loved one to a bespoke cookery lesson from accomplished chef Tara Hofman this Valentines? Having worked in prestigious restaurants in the UK and California, Tara is able to tailor a course based on any type of food, from desserts, mains, seafood, and canapés in your own home. Gift vouchers are now available. T: 0117 962 1770 W: www.tarastable.co.uk
winners Congratulations to Lizzy Farwell from Bristol who has won half a case of Bottega Gold Prosecco!
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Congratulations to Patricia Wheeler from Bedfordshire who has won a meal for two at Dart Marina’s Wildfire Bar and Bistro in Devon!
> flavour news
New Beginnings… Bristol is playing host to some of the most exciting and eagerly anticipated restaurant openings set for 2011. Book early to taste for yourself!
Goodfellows Award-winning chef Adam Fellows has opened a café in Shepton Mallet. The café, at the Haskin’s store on the High Street, is open all day, 7 days a week, selling the patisseries and cakes that have made Goodfellow’s in Wells a destination for afternoon tea and high-quality lunches. Recently featuring on the BBC series Turn Back Time with Gregg Wallace, Shepton Mallet is the talk of the town. 01749 343579 www.goodfellowswells.co.uk
>January
>February
Côte Brasserie, Clifton Village
Jamie’s Italian, Park Street
From restaurant entrepreneur Richard Caring, who owns some of the UK's most highly acclaimed restaurants such as The Ivy, J Sheekey's, Le Caprice and the Soho House group, comes the restaurant experience that hit London by storm. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Côte offers a modern approach to classic French dishes such as steak frites, tuna Niçoise, moules marinières and corn-fed chicken from the Languedoc.
The long awaited opening of Jamie Oliver’s latest restaurant will soon reach Park Street in Bristol. What used to house Blackwells Bookshop will now play host to a 240-cover restaurant, offering traditional Italian dishes in an informal setting with a touch of the Oliver cheekiness.
www.cote-restaurants.co.uk
www.jamiesitalian.com
The Muset, Clifton Village
From the award-winning Ronnie’s restaurant in Thornbury, comes owner Ronnie Faulkner’s latest, most eagerly The Mission Mexican Grill, anticipated new restaurant, The Muset. Park Street Faulkner, who will be cooking at the new It’s the third site for this San Francisco Clifton site initially, promises to bring a -inspired restaurant, which started life similar style and menu as the Thornbury in Oxford and later expanded to Reading. restaurant. On the menu is his flagship The Mission specialises in burritos, starter of Cornish scallops wrapped which have been hailed as some of the in Italian bacon, garlic purée and sage best in Britain. butter. www.missionburritos.co.uk www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
WIN! Your very own vines! Cider Shop We couldn’t let this issue go by without mentioning the exciting opening of the first specialist cider shop on Bristol’s historic Christmas Steps. Despite the region’s strong associations with cider, including several cider heavy bars and boats, owners felt the city was lacking a specialised cider shop. Stocking over 50 varieties of draught, bottled cider and perry, you’re sure to find what you are looking for – gert lush!
The ultimate gift for the wine enthusiast is to join Dragons Den star Duncan Bannatyne in a new vineyard, Pebblebed Partner Vineyards, and become involved from planting the vines to harvest and drinking your own labelled wine! To celebrate the new partnership Pebblebed are offering one lucky flavour reader the chance to win an Adopt a Vine package! Watch your vine grow and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating you name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine from. Good luck! T: 07814 788348 W: www.pebblebed.co.uk
www.bristolcidershop.co.uk 5
> flavour events guide
Dates for the diary Devilled Egg Thursday 13th January Detox and healthy cookery class Tuesday 25th January Seasonal dinner party cookery class Thursday 3rd February New world wine and food tasting Monday 7th February Valentine’s dinner party romantic cooking T: 0117 973 2823 W: www.thedevilledegg.com
Honeybunch Cupcakes Wednesday 26th January Cupcakes for Beginners Spend a day learning how to bake, swirl and make fondant decorations to cheer up the January Blues! £85 Wednesday 9th February Hearts and Flowers Learn how to make perfect cupcakes and cake decorations for your loved one!
Bath Priory Mount Somerset Sunday 30th January Mount Somerset Wedding Fayre Saturday 12th and 14th February Valentines Dinner Tuesday 22nd February Cookery demonstration with lunch Sunday 27th February Sunday lunch with jazz Throughout January, February and March Lunch deal of 2 Courses for £12.50 T: 01823 442 500 W: www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk
Offer: Get f it with Arron CollinsThomas Until Monday 17th January To receive 25% off just mention flavour! Limber up and get in shape for 2011. T: 07970613020 6
Thursday 27th January Gourmet dining with Michael Caines MBE. Two Michelin star chef Michael Caines prepares and introduces a four course seasonal menu showcasing his unique skills. T: 01225 331922 W: www.thebathpriory.co.uk
Cavendish Restaurant at Dukes Hotel Wednesday 2nd February Join us for our fine dining restaurant re-launch evening with head chef Pieter Swanepoel. T: 01225 787963 W: www.dukesbath.co.uk
Marlborough Tavern Throughout January Early Diner offer: 25% off when you eat with us before 7pm* Throughout January Two course lunch for £12 and three course lunch for £15
Clarkes Restaurant
Monday 10th January Steak Night Grab yourself a juicy steak for just £9.95 and wash it down with a bottle of Malbec for the same price.
Thursday 20th January Pie night: Two course meal for £10 Unbeatable pies at an unbeatable price. T: 01225 444440 W: www.clarkesbath.co.uk
Tuesday 18th January Real Fish & Chips A range of fresh fish in light crispy beer batter, with double fried hand cut chips, mushy peas and homemade tartare sauce.
Coffee at Camden
Monday 24th January Beat the Blues Party A 3 course set dinner menu and live entertainment courtesy of Elvis Presley himself! £27.50 per head
Tuesday 1st February Treat your loved one to something different. Beautifully ribbon wrapped cupcakes with love tags in boxes of 6 from £14.00 or £2.20 each. Call Sara now to avoid disappointment. T 0779919205 or pop in Coffee @ Camden, 2 Claremont Terrace, Bath BA1 6EH
T: 01225 423731 W: www.marlborough-tavern.com * Terms and Conditions apply, not available in conjunction with any other offer.
> flavour subscriptions offer
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Since 1951 The Good Food Guide has scoured the UK for the best dining experiences on offer, from high-end restaurants for that once-in-a-lifetime meal, to hearty pubs for Sunday lunch with friends. Always searching for hidden gems and undiscovered talent, the Guide continues to push the boundaries of eating out in Britain. This year the Guide celebrates its 60th anniversary and includes over 1,300 recommendations, incisive reviews and much more. 7
> flavour in season
Roasted pork fillet with garlic buttered kale Serves 4 Season 4 small pork fillets with salt and pepper and place in a hot frying pan with 1tbsp of olive oil. Keep turning the pork until completely sealed and golden brown in colour. Remove from the heat and place in a hot oven, remembering to turn after a few minutes. In the same pan, add a splash of oil, 4oz butter and 2 chopped garlic cloves. When the butter has melted, add 500g of finely chopped kale and cook until tender and remove from the heat. When the pork fillets are just cooked, remove from the oven and allow them to rest for five minutes. Divide the kale into four bowls, cut the pork into medallions and arrange on top.
>Kale Kale is another descendant of the cabbage family. It is also a very hardy winter vegetable despite its appearance and partners well with winter game. It has a richer flavour than some cabbage varieties and, like all good greens, it is packed with goodness. Small kale leaves are often younger and can be sweeter but avoid discoloured leaves as these may be past their best. Large leaves often come with thicker stalks which require more cooking than the leaves, so be weary. It is also best as soon as it has been picked as it doesn’t store too well.
At their best >Leeks
Pan-fried guinea fowl breast with braised leek and thyme Serves 4 Top and tail 4 leeks and cut into halves. Place into a small tray with 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of hot chicken stock and a little salt and pepper. Cover and cook until tender. Season and pan fry 4 guinea fowl breasts on both sides until golden brown. Place in a hot oven and cook for approximately 20 minutes, or until cooked. Remove from the oven and allow to rest. Remove the leeks and the thyme from the stock and reduce it to a sauce consistency. Whisk in 50g of butter to complete the sauce. Sauce up 4 plates, divide the leeks equally into the centre of each plate, finally cut the guinea fowl in halves and place on top of the leeks. 8
Leeks are members of the onion family but have a milder and sweeter flavour than white and red onions. The lower white and light green parts are the more flavoursome bits and the dark tops are usually discarded. Look for firm stalks that feel fairly weighty and are vibrant in colour. They will also store for a couple of days in the fridge but are best eaten fairly quickly. There are many great soup recipes with leeks but also try chopping them finely and add to a mirapoix of carrot, onion and celery to make a punch base for homemade sauces and stews.
> flavour xxxxxxx
Boozy braised red cabbage with cinnamon, apple and sweet pork Serves 4 Firstly, prepare all of your ingredients. Take 1 cored and finely sliced red cabbage, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 bottle of port, 100g of brown sugar, 2 apples peeled, cored and diced and a little salt and pepper. Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl and place in a tray. Cover with tin foil and cook in a pre-heated oven at 160°C. Occasionally turn the ingredients and cook until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Leave the cabbage with a vibrant purple colour. A great dish to serve with game.
>Red cabbage Another member of the brassica family but this variety tends to need a bit more love than other lighter cabbages. It has been cultivated in Britain since the middle ages and although enjoyed most at this time of year, it is usually in season all year round. Red cabbage should also last for quite a while after it has been picked. Make sure you pick firm cabbages with crisp leaves and store in a cool, dark cupboard for a good week or two. Historically, red cabbage has been a popular pickling ingredient but it also makes a colourful addition to a wintery, hearty coleslaw. It is also wonderful when braised which brings out mountains of sweetness.
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
right now >Celeriac
An unusual looking root veg, celeriac is compact, round and smells distinctively like celery. It is the root of some celery varieties and has a similar flavour although a bit milder and sweeter. Pick out roots that are medium in size as if they are too large they can taste quite woody. They should also be firm to the touch with fresh leaves at the top if still attached. They do also keep well in the fridge for a good week. Be prepared for a bit of wastage when you prepare them, as they need to be peeled. Try them thinly sliced and mixed with potatoes in a gratin.
Celeriac, butter bean and spinach gratin Serves 4 Prepare the béchamel sauce by melting 50g of butter in a saucepan. Add 50g of plain flour and mix to a paste. Bit by bit, add 1 pint of full fat milk and mix to a smooth paste each time. After the sauce is made, cover with a cartouche and cook on a low heat for a few minutes and put to one side. Peel and dice 1 celeriac into centimeter cubes and cook in salted, boiling water until tender. Drain well and add to the béchamel, along with 170g of cooked butter beans and 100g of baby spinach. Mix well and pour into an oven dish. Sprinkle with 50g of brown breadcrumbs and 50g of grated Parmesan, and place in a pre-heated oven at 160°C for 20 minutes. Finish under the grill to give a golden brown topping. Serve with dressed salad leaves. 9
> flavour xxxxxxx
Romantic Valentine’s Weekend at Burford House Hotel With a slower pace of life and lovely bedrooms, Burford House is an ideal place to celebrate a romantic Valentines. Arrive Friday 11th February, 2011 to Heart Shaped Chocolates and a Bottle of Pink SparklingWine on ice in your Deluxe bedroom. Enjoy a quiet dinner either in-house or at one of the many good eateries in Burford. Awake refreshed to spend Saturday at your leisure. Enjoy a cocktail before taking your seat for our Romantic Valentine’s Candlelit Set Four Course Dinner. Sunday Breakfast find a Red Rose on your table for the one you love! Deluxe en-suite Four Poster £525.00* Deluxe en-suite Double £495.00*
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Alternatively, stay Monday 14th February, 2011 with Heart Shaped Chocolates, Pink SparklingWine on ice and a Red Rose in your room. Pre-dinner cocktail and Romantic Valentines Candlelit Set Four Course Dinner. Tuesday Breakfast and Check-out. Deluxe en-suite Four Poster £326.00* Deluxe en-suite Double £316.00* 99 High Street, Burford, Oxfordshire Tel: 01993-823151
www.burfordhouse.co.uk
*Prices are per room based on two sharing and includes accommodation, breakfast, Valentine dinner and wine/cocktail as stated. Prices quoted include VAT @ 20%.
> flavour fab foodie reads
fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
The River Cottage Fish Book Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall & Nick Fisher
The Omnivore's Dilemma Michael Pollan
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Nick Fisher tackle issues of sustainability and responsible fishing in this new book, preparing the reader with skills that will last a lifetime. The duo look at sea fish, freshwater and shellfish, offering invaluable advice on how to source, prepare and cook your catch. The stunning recipes encourage the reader to think outside the box and to opt for something a little less ordinary. Try the pot-roasted gurnard or a delicious limpet stew. Learn the basics from a good fish stock to simple cooking methods such as steam-braising to shallow frying. A book that will provide continuous support and advice for all the family.
What should we have for dinner? As the introduction of this book states, this seemingly simple question now provokes a complicated answer. Here Michael Pollan attempts to shed light on the myths and anxieties that face consumers on a daily basis. Should we chose the organic apple or the conventional? If organic, local or imported? Wild fish or farmed? Low carb or low cal? Pollan follows his meal from land to table, tracing the origin of everything consumed and the implications for ourselves and our planet. A must read for all of those who care about what they put on their plate.
My Kitchen James Martin
slow cooking antony worrall thompson
Organised into the seasons to explore the Best of British, My Kitchen is a brand new collection of James Martin’s favourite seasonal recipes. With over 100 recipes taken from his personal repertoire, readers are invited to recreate his simple and irresistible ideas for tasty, easy going food. A vocal supporter of British food, James also includes ideas for using different cuts of meat, harking back to the era of ‘waste not, want not’. Determined to prove that game, such as grouse, rabbit and venison, is not only affordable but also very delicious, he finds versatile ways to turn these meats into mouth-watering dishes that the whole family will love.
With winter in its full icy swing, there is nothing more tempting than a one-pot dish of hot, tasty food to warm us up. Antony Worrall Thompson’s Slow Cooking offers over 100 wonderfully easy to make and delicious options for the cosy nights in. Where most require the use of a slow cooker, some can be adapted for the oven or hob. Once you have put the ingredients into the casserole dish, just leave to cook while you get on with something else. Many of the recipes use up store cupboard essentials and cheap cuts of meat and all take a minimum of an hour, leaving you with wonderfully tender, warming meals.
Bloomsbury £15
Harper Collins £12.99
Bloomsbury £8.99
Octopus Publishing £17.99
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> flavour loves
flavour This month’s must do, buy & see...
Nicholas Wylde Nicholas Wylde is an independent retail jeweller and manufacturing designer. Specialising in individual commissions and the remodeling of existing jewellery, Nicholas is one of the leading designers in the UK.
Loves
An example of his unique touch is the exquisite 18ct yellow and white gold, ruby and diamond pendant priced at £8395. T: 01225 462862 W: www.nicholaswylde.com
Karen Miller
Pebblebed Vineyards
For a thoughtful touch this Valentine’s day, these gorgeous driftwood pieces offer a unique and special gift option. Based in South Devon, designer Karen Miller creates every piece from beautiful pieces of driftwood collected from around the world. Choose from £175 (small) £250 (medium) £350 (large).
Pebblebed Vineyards is one of the largest vineyards in South West England with some great valentine gift ideas. For the wine lover why not give an “adopt a vine” gift package which includes a bottle of wine, vineyard tour and tasting and other benefits. A selection of wines and other great valentine’s gifts are available from Pebblebeds Topsham Cellar or online.
Also available are small hanging hearts made from beautiful shell pieces. Chose from a selection of colours and gift boxes. A beautiful token for your loved one. Priced £15.
T: 07814 788348 W: www.pebblebed.co.uk
T: 01803 882850 W: www.devondriftwooddesigns.com
Goodfellows
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Tasting room
Make your Valentine’s evening extra special with the award-winning team at Goodfellows. Enjoy a delicious four-course meal from the dinner menu and receive a complimentary glass of sparkling wine or Kir Royale on arrival. Dishes include smoked salmon with cod brandade, halibut with pumpkin ravioli and classic French desserts such as crème brûlée, and iced parfait. Monday 14th February only, £45 per person.
Celebrate in style with award-winning bubbles! Treat your partner to a silky-textured, light to medium bodied Champagne with tempting touches of apple and brioche and an impressively long finish. The Jeaunaux Robin Grande Tradition retails at £24 and is available from The Tasting Room, Bath.
T: 01749 673866 W: www.goodfellowswells.co.uk
T: 01225 463392 W: www.tastingroom.co.uk
> flavour loves
Godminster Cheese Godminster vintage award-winning organic cheddar is an unusually creamy and tangy cheddar made from a 70 year-old recipe and wrapped in a distinctive burgundy wax. Beautifully presented, this is a perfect gift to send to your loved one and can include a hand written message. T: 01749 813733 W: www.organic-cheese.co.uk
Woodfired ovens Impress your loved one this Valentine’s weekend with delicious treats from your own wood-fired oven. Whether it’s meat, fish, vegetables, bread or heart shaped pizzas, enjoy an indefinable taste created by the unique atmosphere of hot stone and brick.
Fish for thought If you want to put your culinary skills to the test or fancy a romantic fish supper, then order online a fish box from Fish for Thought and have the freshest produce from Cornwall delivered to your door. The irresistible Shellfish Lovers’ Box contains 700g of Cornish lobster, six Cornish oysters and four large crevettes, all for £50. Upgrade the box to include a bottle of Champagne for £75. T: 01208 262202 W: www.martins-seafresh.co.uk
Valentine’s offer: Beat the VAT increase and pay just 17.5% on the Four Grand Mere Wood-Fired ovens. T: 01225 867971 W: www.wood-firedoven.co.uk
James Chocolates A great gift idea from James Chocolates that is sure to warm the heart of any chocolate lover is the Valentine edible box. A box made of chocolate filled with smooth fresh cream truffles so you can devour every last piece of this gift! The milk chocolate box contains deliciously seductive strawberry and Champagne truffles. They are so romantic James even proposed to his wife with one of these boxes! T: 01749 831330 W: www.jameschocolates.co.uk James Chocolates are giving one lucky flavour reader the chance to WIN a tasty selection of chocolates full of treats perfect for Valentine’s Day. Enter before February 10th to receive your goodies before Valentines Day. Email competitions@flavourmagazine.com or write to us at the usual address. Good luck!
Bristol Blue Glass The original Bristol Blue Glass Company designs and produces handcrafted and unique crystal glassware. Made by crafts men using techniques that are more than 2000 years old, Bristol Blue Glass can tailor make any piece to your specification. We love the ruby Amphora bottle, which makes the perfect keepsake for a loved one. The Bristol blue jug is also hard to resist as one of the original designs from the company and is a beautiful start to your collection. T: 0117 9720818 W: www.bristol-glass.co.uk To celebrate in style Bristol Blue Glass are giving a pair of beautiful ruby champagne glasses to one lucky flavour reader. Enter before February 10th to get them in time for Valentine’s Day! Email competitions@flavourmagazine.com or write to us at the usual address. Good luck!
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> flavour maison chaplais
maison chaplais Cheltenham’s Maison Chaplais is a veritable treasure trove of hand chosen luxuries from around the world – honey from the Auvergne, coffee from Jamaica, artisan pastas from Tuscany. But according to Jennie Clark even the incredible product range only hints at the vast experience and expertise of owner, Maurice Chaplais. A chef for many years, but a baker at heart, you’ll find sourdoughs and fruit breads, baguettes, ciabattas, seed breads, soda bread, bagels and buns adorning the shelves – above the finest cured meats, pâtés, cheeses and more. Upstairs is a cosy café, where you can steal a taste of the homemade delights.
He also teaches breadmaking at the Foodworks Cookery School in Colesbourne. He said, “I hadn’t realised how passionate people would be. They just love bread. They’re just so excited, having never made bread before, then making it from scratch and enjoying it with a glass of wine by lunch time”.
Maurice is the son of a Frenchman, and much of his inspiration comes from family holidays in the South of France – where his favourite dishes were the freshest, most simply cooked fish. After working abroad as a chef, and at an Oxford restaurant (again simple food cooked ‘à la minute’, he tells me), he fell into baking.
And his drive to pass on his expertise has made it across a couple of continents – he’s just helped set up a new bakery chain in Bangalore, India, serving traditional European artisan loaves to a wealthy emerging market. “There are those products there, but no-one doing it really well. It’s a booming city, people are travelling and getting used to croissant and pizza,” he says. Typically, there are no shortcuts or imitations here and Maurice regularly flies out to train the staff to his own recipes.
Despite the success of Maison Chaplais, it definitely won’t be coming to a town near you. Maurice said, “Lots of people say we ought to clone it, but we have over fifty suppliers here. I chat to the customers and I know my products – they expect that. They might want to buy Arborio rice and want to know what to do with it, so I’ll give them a quick lesson”. 14
His passion and knowledge is in constant demand from restaurants, hotels – even governments – around the globe, and he’s more than willing to share the secrets
of great breadmaking. His breadmaking, with recipes honed over years of selfteaching, seems to have a magic touch. He abandoned traditional yeast a year ago, and has turned to the more ancient art of growing his own cultures from Alphonso mango. Despite deep-rooted French influences, Maurice says the secret to Britain’s great bread is really its multiculturalism, and endless opportunities for learning and perfecting the art of gourmet cuisine. So step inside the adventures of Maurice Chaplais – one bite of Cotswold sourdough and you might end up half way around the world. ■
Maison Chaplais 52 Andover Road Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL50 2TL 01242 570222 www.maisonchaplais.com
> flavour maison chaplais
He abandoned traditional yeast a year ago, and has turned to the more ancient art of growing his own cultures from Alphonso mango
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> flavour martin blunos
too much choice As the supermarket shelves buckle with festive fallout, Martin Blunos explains why he likes to keep things simple... We’re off, and what a start to the year. VAT’s up and the temperature’s down. In my book, comfort food is the answer, which means broths, bakes and braises. Cheap and warming, they’re a much welcomed internal cuddle… Shopping for fresh food is a lot quicker at this time of year because the seasonal choice is limited, and too much choice is sometimes a pain in the proverbial. Nowadays we’ve got a choice of full fat, semi skimmed and skimmed milk and not just from cows! Bread displays that once used to fill half a shelf, now take an isle. If you’re anything like me, you can spend forty minutes choosing and end up on the street clutching a tetra pack of semi skimmed pro biotic yaks milk, a mixed grain mini bloomer loaf and a box of twenty five, hand woven silk pouches of decaffeinated earl grey! Tea and toast has taken on a new meaning. Talking toast, Seville oranges make their brief appearance at this time of
year which means that it’s time to dust of the preserving pan and make marmalade. Making home made preserves is really satisfying - the house smells like a sweet shop and all the preparation and time that you put in results in jar upon jar of golden goodness. Here’s my marmalade recipe, try it spread thickly on your toasted slices of mixed grain! Alternatively, a dollop worked into a bread and butter pudding works a treat and for savoury dishes, try it smeared over a baked ham whilst glazing it in the oven. The classic duck à l’orange is lifted by using a spoon of marmalade in its creation. See now I’m giving you choices – enjoy!
ORANGE MARMALADE Ingredients 900g Seville oranges 2 lemons 2.5 litres cold water 1.8kg granulated sugar Method 1 Wash fruit under cold running water and place in a large preserving pan. Add the measured water, cover the pan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat so water simmers gently. 2 Cook for 2 hours or until the fruits are tender when tested with a wooden skewer. Put the sugar in a large roasting tray and heat through a low oven (140°C) for about an hour. 3 Drain the fruits from the water and leave the water to one side. When the fruit is cool enough to handle, cut in half and scoop out pith and seeds – put these back into the pan along with the lemons. 4 Bring the pan back to a fast boil and cook uncovered for 15 minutes. Strain and push through a sieve back into the pan. Add the warmed sugar and place the pan over a low heat, stirring from time to time untill all the sugar has dissolved. 5 Shred all the orange skins to (your) desired thickness. Add to the pan and bring to a rolling boil – cook for twenty minutes then do a plate test (spoon a little of the marmalade onto a cold side plate. Ater a few minutes, when cold, push your finger through the small puddle of marmalade and if it is ready it will wrinkle.) If set is not achieved continue to boil for another 5 minutes and repeat the test. 6 When ready turn off the heat and allow to cool. Pour into sterile jars, cover and seal.
One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 17
> flavour olive tree
olive tree In quintessentially British surroundings, flavour learns about boxing clever and Wilde accusations at The Queensberry Hotel’s Olive Tree restaurant… During the blitz of the Second World War, it’s rumoured that only Bath and Oxford were to be spared by German bombers. The reason: Hitler required a superlative British base once he was ruler of Europe. How different our beloved Georgian city would be had the story ended differently.
The Queensberry Hotel 4-7 Russell Street Bath BA1 2QF 01225 447928 www.thequeensberry.co.uk 18
Every year, Bath’s Regency splendour attracts thousands of visitors from all over the world. What’s more, its accreditation as a World Heritage Site warrants immaculate preservation, so stepping out onto its cobbled streets really is like stepping back in time. Having once been the epicentre of the genteel world, the city’s walls tell 1001 quirky stories reaching far beyond the tales of Jane Austen and Charles Dickens, at the heart of which sits The Queensberry Hotel. Its original owner the 8th Marquis of
Queensberry had the four townhouses the hotel now occupies built in 1771. Reputed as quite a character, it was the subsequent 9th Marquis who ensured that the name Queensberry went down in history. Amongst other exploits, John Sholto Douglas Queensberry was best known for drafting the code of rules that governs modern boxing. He was also famous for publicly speaking out against a liaison between his son and Oscar Wilde, the latter launching a libel suit that he later dropped. True to form, The Queensberry ethos today is still one of standing out from the crowd and doing things their own way. The feather in its cap is undoubtedly The Olive Tree restaurant, widely ranked within the top tier of Bath restaurants. Owners Laurence and Helen Beere boast a combined CV that includes Claridge’s, The
> flavour olive tree
Tasked with realising a vision for first-class dining, Head Chef Nick Brodie draws on his worldwide experience to draw up a Best of British menu with a difference
Savoy, Cliveden, Palace Hotel Gstaad and Bath’s Royal Crescent so perhaps it’s little wonder. Tasked with realising their vision for firstclass dining Head Chef Nick Brodie draws on his worldwide experience to draw up a Best of British menu with a difference. His supplier list is exemplary: lamb and pork from Bartletts at Norton St Philip, duck from Madgetts Farm at Chepstow, and during the game season, birds are sourced from shoots in the Midford Valley. To start, a roasted squab pigeon with its own gyoza, green mango and cashew salad was fusion cooking at its best, the floral notes in mango cutting through the earthy flavours of the perfectly pink pigeon meat.
potato fondant was a stunning vision of height and colour. Most surprisingly for such a modest bird cooked in a fine dining kitchen, the portion was almost enough for two. Finally, a dessert of Cox’s apple mousse, blackberry salad and blackberry sorbet took a well-loved British flavour combination and translated it into a suitably refined context. Establishing a restaurant in its own right is a challenge every hotelier faces, but one that Laurence and Helen have done with notable flair. The Olive Tree’s separate entrance is highly symbolic of its stand-alone status and the restaurant is deservedly revered by local residents as a place that never fails to pack a punch. ■
Next up, the Creedy Carver duck breast, duck leg spring roll, Alsace cabbage and 19
m fro l on
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� hip hops �
It’s not so long ago that real ale was snubbed for the rich offerings of our continental neighbours. Left to ferment was a drink that’s just as complex and richly satisfying as your favourite glass of red or white. A new generation of ale drinkers are emerging, most of whom are faced with a wealth of choice that borders on overwhelming. Ever on hand to help, this month flavour hears from the experts in the industry on everything you need to know about the rise in real ale. Well seasoned beer lovers may even learn a thing or two as well! 21
> flavour hip hops
� hip hops �
Real Ale On The Rise A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also Editor of the website britishpubguide.com
Economic doom and gloom is assailing us from all sides, whole countries need bail-out loans, house prices still not recovering, unemployment rising. And as if that isn’t bad enough, the whole country was brought to a standstill this winter by arctic conditions, flight cancellations and road closures. Honestly, it’s enough to turn you to drink. But not just any drink if a recent report is anything to go by. The 4th annual Cask Report, on the state of the Real Ale market in Britain, shows that cask beer is thriving and bucking the overall downward trend in pub and alcohol revenues. Whereas beer overall has seen a two per cent decline in market value over the past year, cask-conditioned beer value has grown by five per cent. So why is real ale making such a comeback? Well, one reason is a concerted campaign by brewers, distributors and pub companies, to re-brand real ale a traditional, crafted British product – and to move it away from the stereotypical image it once had. It’s not merely a case of rebranding: an advert here, or a new pump clip design there. A significant factor in the resurgence of real ale has been brought about by the brewers offering and promoting a wider
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range of cask ales to appeal to all sections of the drinking community. And that’s traditionally been a problem. Many people hear the words Real Ale and assume it’s just one product, just one taste, just one flavour. The reality is that there is as much variety of taste, colour, strength and texture in real ales as there is in wine. ‘Real’ or ‘cask-conditioned’ ale simply refers to the process by which the beer is made. The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) describes real ale as being made with natural ingredients, and left to mature in the barrel, or cask, through a process called secondary fermentation. It is then served in the pub from that same container. CAMRA was set up in the early 1970s to campaign for the preservation of Real Ale in response to the massive growth in processed beers. It was cheaper, quicker and easier to mass produce beers in the brewery, then take all the yeast out, pasteurise the beer and seal it into kegs. This meant the beer kept for longer and was easier to look after. The problem was that it also took out most of the flavours and aromas that make beer so unique. It also massively reduced the scope for variety that could appeal to different palates. The good news is that today more and more people are being introduced to a flavour-fest of choice. The Cask Report shows an increase of 17 per cent in the number of 18-24 year-olds drinking real ale; and the number of women who’ve sampled the delights has increased too. Crisp and stylish advertising has
> flavour hip hops
Facts Over 8.5 million people in Britain now drink cask ale, and it now has a larger share (15.8%) of the on-trade beer market than at any time since the turn of the millennium The Cask Report revealed that 68% of people consider real ale to be Britain’s
national drink
The number of women who’ve sampled the delights of real ale has doubled from 16% to 32%
Well, since it’s winter, let’s start with something to warm you up when it’s icy outside. How about something rich, dark and creamy with a hint of chocolate? A glass of Exhibition from the Bristol Beer Factory should do that for you. Take a sip and let it swirl round your mouth and you’ll find a new warmth spreads through you as if by magic. Although quite strong (5.2 per cent abv), it tastes very smooth and utterly satisfying.
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Many people hear the words real , ale and assume it s just one product, just one taste, just one flavour
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helped, but there has also been an expansion in the type of pub that offers real ales. Many pubs have changed their image, becoming far more female or family-friendly, and offering a much higher quality of customer experience. Here too, it is all about variety. The traditional pub still has a treasured place as a part of our national heritage, but so do the wine bar, brasserie and restaurant.
Of course this renaissance of real ale is not just reflected at the consumer end of the process – more of us drinking it – it is also reflected at the production end. There are now over 750 breweries producing real ales in the UK, with over 100 of these in the West Country. As an example, take Torrington’s Clearwater Brewery. Originally founded in 1998, taking over the site of a previously closed brewery, Clearwater was sold in 2009 to Barry Raynes and, with head brewer Barrie Marden installed, was relaunched as recently as March of 2010. Less than a year later, Clearwater’s beers – Real Smiler, Devon Dympsy, Proper Ansome, Winter Ale and Devon Darter – are available in a wide range of pubs across Devon, from Holsworthy to Lynton. All of which is very encouraging to the converted, who already enjoy real ale but, if you are new to the wonders of secondary fermentation, what are the best beers to try to introduce yourself to the tastes and colours that await you?
If you want to start with something a little less rich, how about a mild? The St Austell Brewery in Cornwall produces Black Prince, it has the same dark and creamy look to it as Exhibition, but the lightly roasted malt gives it a kind of caramel sweetness, and it is the gentlest of introductions to a uniquely British beer style. Try the Clearwater Brewery’s Devon Dympsey for a classic best bitter which is typical of the style, full of flavour and with a hint of slightly burnt malt to give it a distinctive but delightful aftertaste. There are plenty of other styles to try – barley wines, stouts and porters, traditional pale ales, speciality wheat or fruit beers – and each beer is unique so there is bound to be one to suit even the most selective of palates. The pub trade is still having a hard time, thanks to short-sighted government legislation and tax policy, to the tough economic climate and the inexorable march of cheap booze deals at semi-local supermarkets, but real ale remains a thriving oasis of quality that continues to attract people to the pubs and bars that take the trouble to look after it well. 23
> flavour hip hops
spotlight on..
stuart howe Plato once said “He was a wise man, [he] who invented beer,” a sentiment embodied by Sharp’s Head Brewer Stuart Howe. This month, we caught up with Stuart to talk about an industry on the move and some rather bizarre homebrewing habits... I always knew exactly where I was going in my career from the moment I started university. My degree was in Brewing and Distilling which was three years of biochemistry and chemical engineering followed by a year of brewing and distilling. I enjoyed the course even though it was geared towards working for huge corporations. University shows you have the potential to be really great in the industry; the real learning begins out of the classroom when you can gain experience in the practicalities of brewing.
whole, the industry could do a lot more to make beer appealing to everyone. Breweries tend to promote themselves rather than beer itself which doesn’t do a lot for the industry. It’s about fighting against an imbedded perception society has about beer itself. I taste everything which goes into the beer from the water to the hops. I taste every batch at every stage. By the time the beer is in the pub I would have tasted the brew more than 20 times. I have a deputy taster who tastes everything as well in case I have a cold or am away from the brewery. Every Friday a panel comes in, tastes and approves the beer from that week. We recruit and screen people especially for the job and it’s a process which can take up to four weeks. Some bigger breweries have a panel in on a daily basis.
The market is working hard to attract more young people into real ale drinking. I think that as people grow up and their taste buds develop, they turn from lager to ale. I’m always brewing so I don’t get much of a chance to go down to the pub to see for myself but we are always looking for new ways to make beers more edgy and exciting for the growing number of student drinkers of real ale. In terms of the total market for cask and craft ales, the demand for edgy beers is less than one per cent. We find that the growing market for cask/craft ales is in people in their 20s who are seeking out more character and flavour than are found in beers brewed by the multinational brewers. People socially do as they’re told. There is a social pressure for women not to engage with beer. as it has macho connotations. The brewing industry is constantly coming up with ideas to appeal to women which can mean sacrificing what beer stands for. Marketing and social etiquette means that women have been excluded in the past but they are just as capable of getting the same pleasure from the diversity of real ale. There nothing genetically different between men and women which makes women any less likely to enjoy good beer. Fruit beers were originally brewed in Belgium as a way of preserving fruit after the harvest. Today sweetened versions of these beers are promoted as a drink suitable for ladies. I love proper artisanal lambic fruit beers and have been known to enjoy some more commercial fruit beers, please don’t tell my mates!
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I have a blog at http://brewingreality.blogspot. com. I used it as a space to talk about the brewery but found that people weren’t interacting enough with it so every week I experiment with new brews and let people suggest what they want to see. Some of the suggestions have been a bit outlandish. I recently did one called Heston’s Offal Ale, which used heart and kidneys. I’ve also brewed with mussels and cockles!
Real ale has been traditionally regarded as a backward-looking industry. Sharp’s challenges this with modern marketing imagery and beers which are both easy to drink and yet complex enough to appeal to connoisseurs. We are fighting to change the image of beer as a poor cousin to wine by promoting it as the perfect partner to fine food. Breweries are so heavily engaged in competition with other breweries that they can sometimes miss the point of promoting the benefits of real ale. The brewing industry itself is trying to make their drinks more appealing to people. Individual breweries are looking to carve out their own niche. As a
I have spent a lot of time with Nathan Outlaw and Rick Stein, brewing beers to pair with the food on their menu. Nathan (pictured left) also wanted to incorporate some of the beers into the dishes. The process takes a couple of months and is a great way to introduce people to the versatility of real ale. To try the delights of real ale in your food, turn over for some exclusive Sharps Brewery recipes…
Sharps Brewery Rock Cornwall PL27 6NU T: 01208 862121 W : www.sharpsbrewery.co.uk
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Chocolate, Fudge and Cornish Sea Salt Brownie with Sharp’s St Enodoc Double Ice-Cream
Fig, Hazelnut and Sharp’s Autumn Red Ale Cake
Cornish Rarebit with Sharp’s Doom Bar
Cornish Duck Leg with Sharp’s Honey Spice Triple, Onion Purée, Watercress and Pickled Shallot Salad 25
> flavour hip hops
� Chocolate, Fudge and Cornish Sea , Salt Brownie with Sharp s St Enodoc Double Ice-Cream � Cornish Rarebit , with Sharp s Doom Bar Melt 120g of cheddar and 60ml of Sharp’s Doom Bar Beer together until it starts to bubble. Mix in 30g of white breadcrumbs, 30g of plain flour and 1tsp of English mustard. Cook until the mixture comes cleanly away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball. Remove from the heat and allow the mix to cool. When cool, beat in 3 egg yolks until you have a smooth rarebit mixture. The rarebit is ready for use. I love to top a piece of pollock or cod and bake it in a hot oven. Alternatively, simply grill on top of some toast and serve with some tomato chutney.
Serves 8 For the brownie, melt 275g of 70% dark chocolate, 225g unsalted butter and 400g of caster sugar in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Once melted, remove from the heat and whisk the chocolate mix in with 5 eggs. Sift in 220g of plain flour and 10g of Cornish sea salt and mix until smooth. Pour into a 12x8 inch baking tray lined with greaseproof paper. Bake at 150°C for 15 minutes, or until the middle is still slightly runny when tested with a knife. Allow to cool completely. For the ice-cream, reduce 330ml of St Enodoc Double in a hot pan until there is 50-100ml remaining. Allow to cool. Bring 250ml of milk to the boil, and whisk 6 egg yolks and 100g of caster sugar together. When the milk comes to the boil, slowly pour over the eggs, mixing continuously. Add 250ml of double cream to the mix and pour everything back into the pan. Heat the liquid gently, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan. When the mixture begins to thicken remove from the heat and pour into a cold bowl placed over a bowl of ice. Stir the ice cream until cold then mix in the St Enodoc Double reduction. Churn in an ice-cream machine, and freeze for 2 hours. To serve, portion the brownie and place on the plate. Using a hot ice cream scoop, ball the ice-cream, and place next to the brownie. To finish, sprinkle a small amount of Cornish sea salt over the brownie.
� , Cornish Duck Leg with Sharp s Honey Spice Triple, Onion Puree, Watercress and Pickled Shallot Salad Serves 2 The pickled shallots are best made in advance, either a small amount the day before or a large amount at a time. They will keep for up to three months in an airtight container. Slice across 1 banana shallot to form finely sliced rings. Boil 25ml of red wine, 25ml of red wine vinegar, 25g of sugar, and 25ml of water in a pan together and pour over the shallot rings while boiling hot. Leave to cool or place in an airtight container with the lid on. Place 2 duck legs on a tray with 1 sprig of thyme and 1 bulb of garlic and sprinkle with some oil, salt and pepper. Place in a preheated oven at 150°C and cook for 2-2 ½ hours until the meat is tender. Allow the duck to cool slightly and pick the meat off the bone. For the onion purée, place 3 medium, finely sliced onions in to a hot pan with a small amount of oil. Stir the onions occasionally and as they begin to colour add 100ml of Sharp’s Honey Spice Triple. Repeat this process until the onions have an even, deep golden brown colour and are tender. Whilst warm, blend the onions in a food processor until you have a smooth purée. To finish, warm the onion purée in a pan and spoon on the plate. Mix the duck meat, pickled shallots and 100g of watercress together and dress with a little olive oil and salt. Place the salad on top of the onion purée, This is also great as a light lunch. Everything can be prepared in advance and kept in the fridge ready to serve hot or cold. 26
� , Fig, Hazelnut and Sharp s Autumn Red Ale Cake Serves 8 Bring 100ml of Autumn Red Beer to the boil and pour over 100g soft dried figs and 50g of sultanas. Cover and allow to soak for 30 minutes. Remove two serving spoons of the fruit and keep to one side. Blend the remaining soaked fruits in a food processor to a smooth purée. Cream 150g of unsalted butter with 100g of icing sugar and gradually add the eggs. Mix in the purée. 50g of chopped hazelnuts, and the two serving spoons of fruit kept to one side. Sift in 75g of plain flour and 4g of baking powder and mix. Pour into a 12x8 inch greased baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and bake at 160°C for 25 minutes. Allow to cool, turn out and portion. I like to cut small cubes and serve it as a petit four.
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KEGS THE QUESTION Beer might just be the new Chardonnay, but according to the owner of Butcombe Brewery Guy Newell, the industry is far from resting on its laurels... Beer is the world’s best selling alcoholic drink, and when served in optimum condition a classically crafted British cask conditioned beer is the king of all alcoholic beverages. Like all the best ideas beer is simple: water, malted barley, hops and yeast. What other alcoholic drink is so natural? No chemicals, no additives, no preservatives – the healthiest drink in the world! Butcombe Brewery will always lead with cask beer – the iconic Butcombe Bitter still accounts for 80 per cent of our total production. What’s more we are tremendously excited about the prospect of two brand new seasonal beers for winter and spring 2011 in the form of Old Vic Bristol Porter and Mendip Spring Bitter. Respected beer writer Adrian Tierney-Jones summed up Butcombe Bitter for me whilst having a pint together in the Ring O’Bells in Compton Martin, the site of the impromptu Kylie Minogue gig earlier this year: “I felt my palate ring and sing with its crisp, cracker-like character, exchanging joyous high fives with an over-arching, invigorating punch of bitterness and dryness. The finish was Sahara dry with a crisp biscuity character, clucked over by delicious citrus notes.” Praise indeed! Every brewer worth their salt needs to perennially attract new drinkers, so back in 2006 Butcombe took the bold move of putting Butcombe Blond in keg, serving it 5-6 degrees cooler than cask, and pouring through a sexy Italian stainless steel font. Interestingly it’s not the taste of cask beer that younger drinkers don’t like but the temperature. This was met with caution by some of our long-standing supporters, but I passionately believe that Blond
Premium will be a bridgehead to cask, and so it has proved for a number of drinkers, while many others have remained loyal to the keg. Every generation moves away from what their parents drank, and in reality, today’s generation of Blond Premium drinkers are the children of the lager generation. Whilst totally committed to cask (and a long standing CAMRA member to boot), I am convinced there’s a burgeoning future for innovative, exciting and authentic keg products. As part of this new wave, we’ll be launching Butcombe Brunel IPA @ 5 per cent abv in keg in 2011. What we certainly don’t want to see is a return to bland, tasteless, low abv, keg and smooth-flow beer, but the keg revolution in America looks like a catalyst that we would be foolish to ignore. Our Blond Premium is the only beer on offer in Marco Pierre White’s new Steak and Chophouse in Congresbury, something we see as a tremendously positive sign of the times. Cask v keg v bottled is not so much a contest, but more a question of choice. Yet regardless of the form it comes in, for me the desired endgame is simple: the more people who love and drink beer, the better – cheers! W: www.butcombe.com
totally committed to cask, , ❝ Whilst I am convinced there s a burgeoning future for innovative, exciting and authentic keg products ❞
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> flavour hip hops
, Don t lose your bottle For those who struggle to tell their Leffe from their Knights, this month Clare Morris offers up a helping hand for enjoying bottled beers at their best...
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I count myself lucky to live in this country because, amongst other things we have a fantastic heritage of brewing delicious, complex ales – yet we’re near enough to the continent to steal the best of the European selection as well.
style of beer that formed the foundation of our world famous British pub trade. But now, everywhere you look you can find a myriad of mysterious looking bottles and easily lose yourself for an afternoon in a quest to get better acquainted with the whole range.
The range of beers available to us in the last few years has increased tenfold, and no doubt one of the reasons that ale sales are on the increase again. After a generation of growth in lager sweeping the nation, it’s no surprise that our palates are unused to the more traditional
There is so much choice, in fact, that the whole category becomes almost as complex as wine; a bit mind boggling when you’re trying to decide on your next drink at the bar. Here’s a whistle-stop tour of a few very different options to help you out.
> flavour hip hops
a generation ❝ofAfter growth in lager sweeping the nation, , it s no surprise that our palates are unused to the more traditional style of beer that formed the foundation of our world famous British pub trade
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I’m hoping most of you will be familiar with my first brewery. If you aren’t, you should be. Black Sheep Brewery in Masham, North Yorkshire, has only been around for 18 years, but for Head Brewer Paul Theakston, his craft has been in the family for a long time. After Theakston’s beers were bought by Scottish and Newcastle in 1987, he decided to set up on his own, to make beer in the time honoured fashion as his family had done. The Black Sheep name was coined by Paul’s wife, to reflect the stance they had taken against the big breweries, and a nod to the other residents in the town of Masham – the sheep. There’s a beer to suit pretty much everyone’s taste – from the light, refreshing tasting Best Bitter – my personal favourite – or the forever-summer, blonde beer style Golden Sheep, the rich and fruity Black Sheep Ale or dry, citrussy Yorkshire Square Ale, through to the winter-perfect espresso, liquorice flavours of the ruby brown Riggwelter. When cooking, the most obvious pairing for a great quality ale is to add a good dollop to your steak pie or beef stew, and drink a bottle alongside it. Onwards now to another great beer brewing country – Belgium. Known as the ‘Champagne of Belgium’ Trappist beers were brewed by monks who used their brewing to sustain them during periods of fasting, especially as water alone could often be contaminated. Only a few beers in the world are allowed to carry the Trappist name, because they are still made in the monasteries and all proceeds are ploughed back into the monastery and the monks’ charity and social work. Whatever your views on this may be, you can be certain of the quality of the beer you’ll be getting with this stamp of authority. With an incredible complexity of taste, with yeasty breadiness, sustained sweetness, fruit, hops, herbal and
floral aromas. Try Chimay – the most famous of the Trappist beers, its Red variety with a coppery colour and apricot aroma, Blue with light malt and a flowery rosy touch, and the golden Triple, with fruity muscat and raisin flavours. One great thing about beer is the opportunity for experimentation with ingredients. Barley is usually chosen because it is easy to grow and therefore readily available, and is easy to drink. But adding a percentage of other ingredients dramatically alters the style of the beer and adds a multitude of fabulous flavours. Wheat beers are one such example. Predominantly from the German ‘weissbier’, the style involves mixing at least 50 per cent wheat to barley malt, which gives the characteristic cloudy appearance and incredible citrus and often banana flavours and aromas. Hoegaarden is probably the best known and made in the traditional Dutch style with coriander and dried orange peel as additional ingredients. For a German-styled beer that’s very easy to drink, go for Erdinger – fantastic in the bottle but even better on draught. Finally another great variety of flavours to try in the world of beers. Fruit beers most commonly use raspberries or cherries, and traditional Belgian cherry beers are called Kriek which involve fermenting the beer with sour Morello cherries, or Framboise with raspberries. Modern breweries often only add the fruit flavours to the beer after it is finished, but for increased flavour and complexity I’d go for the Belgian varieties every time. Even better when partnered with food, my suggestion is to try either of these with a dark chocolate dessert – the tart flavours of the fruit, with the underlying sweetness of the beer, are a great match for the bitter, luscious flavours of the dark chocolate. And don’t be adverse to trying this with a good old fashioned cheese board with a few other styles of beer alongside.
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, Skinner s Brewery Winning more awards in the South West than any other brewery, Skinner’s is an independent family brewery located in Turo, Cornwall that aims to serve up the true taste of Cornish ale across the country.
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Using 100 per cent Cornish barley grown by three farms within six miles of the brewery, Cornish water, the finest West Country hops and lighter paler malts to attract a new generation of real ale drinker, Skinner’s ales are a refreshing local
Brewed using traditional methods with a younger, more modern recipe, Skinner’s best selling beer is Betty Stogs, named after a character from Cornish folklore and which be found on the shelves of every Waitrose in the UK. It is also the CAMRA 2008 Champion of Best Bitter of Great Britain so be sure to look out for the real life Betty Stogs who travels the country collecting for local charities.
choice. Within 13 short years the company went from strength to strength, winning national awards and securing contracts with Molson Coors and pub chains such as Wetherspoons. The cask ales are available through all of the UK’s finest wholesalers and can now be found on the pumps of the nation’s best real ale pubs.
Skinner’s Brewery Riverside Newham Road Truro TR1 2DP T: 01872 271885 W: www.skinnersbrewery.com
Ramsbury Brewery
Ramsbury Brewery is the modern equivalent of an age old tradition. Beginning its story in 2004, Ramsbury Brewery is based in a once redundant farm building on the 5,500 acre estate in Wiltshire. The estate has been brewing beer on and off for centuries and continues to use malt from internationally acclaimed barley produced on the estate as well as some of the purest spring water in Southern England, which have
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been filtered through layers of chalk ensuring the best ale of it’s kind. From these elements came one of Ramsbury’s most popular ales, Gold. A rich golden coloured beer of 4.5abv, produced by blending optic malt, crystal malt and a small amount of torrified wheat. Added to this are goldings and styrian golding hops which give that distinctly light hoppy aroma and taste.
Ramsbury Brewery Priory Farm Axford, Marlborough Wiltshire SN8 2HA T: 01672 520647 W: www.ramsburybrewery.com
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Wooden Hand Brewery The award-winning Wooden Hand Brewery in Truro, Cornwall brews exceptional quality cask ales. Wodden Hand pride themselves on delivering quality tasting ales using original brewing methods. All the ales are available to buy in nine and 18 gallon casks and 500ml bottles in packs of 12. The ale brands are live products and are racked into casks, where secondary fermination takes place, in time
to deliver you a perfect pint. They have five Brews which include four ales including their newest brew of Cornish Steam Lager. A light beer with a golden colour and medium richness with a delicious hop aroma and a touch of bitterness. Wooden Hand Brewery has a bottling line enabling these cask ales to be enjoyed in perfect condition for up to 12 months after brewing.
Woodenhand Brewery Unit 3 Grampound Road Ind Est Nr Truro, Cornwall, TR2 4TB 01726 884596 www.woodenhand.co.uk
Otter Brewery The building of the Otter Brewery was, and still is, a labour of love. Since 1990 David and Mary Ann McCaig have grown the business, set high up in East Devon’s beautiful Blackdown Hills, into one of the region’s leading suppliers of cask conditioned beer. With green thoughts running through every aspect of production, it is also a superb example of sustainable production and is now home to the UK’s first underground eco cellar.
Family values, traditional methods, environmentally sound practices and first rate ingredients go into each and every pint together with pure water from the head springs of the River Otter. The brewery’s aim has always been to produce commercially viable beers full of integrity, flavour and provenance. Five are brewed year round: Otter Bitter, Otter Bright, Otter Ale, Otter Head and Otter Amber as well as Otter Claus for the Christmas market. All are the antithesis of mass-produced artificially flavoured beers and can be enjoyed in pubs across the South West, especially Devon.
� hip hops � Otter Brewery Mathayes Luppitt Honiton Devon EX14 4SA T: 01404 891 285 W: www.otterbrewery.com
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Arbor Ales
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The award-winning Arbor Ales is a local brewer to be proud of, producing consistently excellent beers in and around the Bristol area since 2006. From the local favourites to the more challenging dark beers, imperial IPAs and everything in between, Arbor Ales aims for perfection with every brew, securing Arbor Ales’ reputation as one of the finest brewers in the South West. With the current increasing awareness and demand for craft or artisanal beer, Arbor Ales is always
looking for new and innovative ways to combine ingredients that produce something different from the listless beers that dominated the cask ale market in the recent past. Something they are succeeding with based on their numerous Gold and SIlver SIBA (Society of Independent Brewers) awards. Stay local and follow the Arbor philosophy: “Let not the budget decide the beer, but the beer decide the budget!” Find Arbor Ales beer in their two pubs, The Old Stillage
in Redfield and The Three Tuns in Hotwells. Arbor is also available in the best freehouses in Bristol and the surrounding area.
Arbor Ales Ltd Unit 10A Bridge Road Industrial Estate Kingswood Bristol BS15 4TA T: 0117 9570899 W: www.arborales.co.uk
Stroud Brewery Stroud Brewery in Gloucestershire is a micro-brewery producing premium beers using high quality ingredients. They use whole hops and source their malt from Warminster Maltings in Wiltshire, Britain’s oldest working traditional floor maltings. The Warminster ‘Warranty of Origin’ scheme guarantees Stroud Brewery a malt supply grown on the Cotswolds. Greg Pilley, the founder of the
Stroud Brewery supplies draught beers to pubs across the Cotswolds, Bristol and Bath. Their ranges of bottled beers are all certified organic, and are suitable for vegans.
brewery, says “Brewing a local beer is one thing, but brewing it using locally grown barley really sets it apart. Cotswolds farmers produce some of the highest quality malting barleys in the UK. Both our brewery along with Warminster is the link in the chain that connects drinkers with their local farms and the characteristic landscape they create.”
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Unit 7 Phoenix Works London Road Thrupp Stroud Gloucestershire GL5 2BU T: 07891 995878 W: www.stroudbrewery.co.uk
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Box Steam Brewery Oaks Farm Rode Hill Nr Colerne Wiltshire SN14 8AR
Box Steam Brewery Box Steam Brewery has been hand-crafting quality real ale near the mouth of Brunel's famous Box Tunnel since 2004. Since then, production capacity has increased by 250 per cent in order to satisfy demand and the beers are distributed locally, nationally and internationally, as far afield as Finland and Canada. Quality as well as quantity is at the
T: 01225 858383 W: www.boxsteambrewery.com
forefront of Box Steam Brewery’s ethos and this is reflected in a multitude of CAMRA awards; the most celebrated ale being the innovative Funnel Blower. This vanilla porter contains two pods of vanilla in every cask, resulting in a blend of smooth sweetness complemented by the coffee undertones
of roasted barley. Whilst these accolades have resulted in demand from Wetherspoon's, Punch Taverns and Carlsberg-Tetley, local farm shops and independent retailers remain valued outlets. Additionally, the brewery owns two unique pubs; The Inn at Freshford and the Cross Guns at Avoncliff.
Win a case of Rucking Mole Moles Brewery was established in 1982 in Melksham, Wiltshire. It was one of a growing number of microbreweries set up to meet the consumer demand for traditional beers that were conditioned in the cask. Although many of their contemporaries have long fallen by the wayside, the steady but unerring progress made by Moles Brewery and its parent company, Cascade Drinks Ltd, has ensured that brewing in Melksham has remained a reality into the 21st century. Their premium beer, Rucking Mole was first brewed to celebrate England winning the Rugby World Cup in 2003. It has since become so popular it is brewed all year round and has won a Gold Medal at the SIBA South West Beer Festival 2009. Judged by other brewers and industry experts at the Maltings Beer Festival in Newton Abbot, Rucking Mole was declared to be the top Best Bitter in the region, following similar success in 2007.
This latest award confirms local drinkers’ view that the 4.5 per cent abv, malty, full-bodied best bitter has few peers in this part of the world.
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It’s a chestnut coloured premium ale, using the traditional Maris Otter English malt, with Fuggles and Goldings hops. Fruity and malty with a smooth bitter finish. Answer this question to be in with the chance of winning a case of Rucking Mole: In what year was Rucking Mole first Brewed? Email your answer to competitions@flavourmagazine.com. Good Luck!
W: www.molesbrewery.com
T: 01225 708842
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St. Austell Brewery : Talent Spotter Roger Ryman became the UK’s youngest head brewer in 1999 when he joined St Austell at the age of 31. Since then this talented brewer has overseen the successful introduction of a range of cask ales and bottled beers, bringing both national and international acclaim to the Cornwall-based brewery.. T: 0845 2411122 W: www.staustellbrewery.co.uk
Did you know? By switching to beer, you can lose weight and cut alcohol consumption. As a low alcohol drink, beer can supplement a healthy lifestyle if consumed responsibly and swapping wine for beer in a single week can save as many calories as a half hour jog!
Otter Brewery : Responsible Drinking Otter Brewery’s new eco-cellar in Devon, built half underground from low carbon blocks, is already saving the business more than £27,000 worth of electricity a year which equates to over 6½ tonnes of CO2 emissions. What’s more, any waste
products from the brewing process are used to benefit the immediate surroundings, such as animal feed.
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The beers from the Bristol Beer Factory feel like Bristol itself, seamlessly blending the modern and the historical. Tried and trusted styles of beer with modern interpretations, brewed in a hundred year-old brewery building that harks back to an industrial age gone by.
The Gold is a smooth and premium golden ale with undertones of biscuity malt and citrus hops.
No 7 is a full flavoured, punchy bitter with a touch of toffee which is oh so easy to drink.
Stay local with the Bristol Stout, black with a ruby red tint, this dry, smooth and full flavoured drink will leave you with a bitter finish and a touch of pride.
For a refreshing option then try the Bristol Hefe, a Bavarian style wheat beer with a rich banana and clove aroma.
Classic, strong and dark, the Exhibition, a powerful English ale offers a rich and fruity drink for any exhibitionist.
Introducing Milk Stout, the beautifully creamy and full bodied stout and the 2009 CAMRA Gold Medal Winning Champion Stout of Britain.
Make a grand finish with the Ultimate Stout. Strong, black with hints of a dark Belgian ale. Savour the aromas and flavours of the ultimate in real ale.
Southville Hop is an American inspired amber ale, powerfully packed with tropical fruit aromas and flavours. A big strong beer to balance all those hops.
T: 01404 891285 W: www.otterbrewery.com
, Abbey Ales : Bath s Best Bitter Bellringer is the only cask beer continuously produced at Abbey Ales Brewery, a golden 4.2 per cent abv award-winning best bitter. Successfully launched at the Bath CAMRA beer festival in October 1997, Bellringer is now the top selling cask bitter in Bath and is
, Bristol s most innovative brewery introduce their range
as popular with the many visitors to the city as it is with Bathonians. What’s more, Abbey Ales is proud to be Bath’s only brewery. T: 01225 444437 W: www.abbeyales.co.uk
Tobacco Factory Raleigh Road, Southville, Bristol BS3 1TF T: 0117 9026317 W: www.bristolbeerfactory.co.uk
Chocolate Profiteroles
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Profiteroles are wonderful because they are easy to make but impressive to serve. They make a somewhat decadent dessert – the perfect end to a lavish and romantic meal. I recommend pairing this dish with a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. This luscious golden nectar has floral aromas, hints of fruit and just the perfect level of sweetness. I also sometimes use edible gold leaf from www.squires-shop.com to make it extra special. Makes approximately 12 Choux Pastry 43g cold butter, cubed 110ml water 53g plain flour Pinch of salt 1½ eggs, beaten
Barbora Stiess runs The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy, offering an enormous range of bespoke cookery classes, for experienced cooks as well as novices.
The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy Latchford House 8 Downfield Road Clifton Bristol BS8 2TH 01179 732823 www.thedevilledegg.com
Sauce 110g plain chocolate 8g butter 1 tbsp water Filling 290ml double cream ½ tbsp sifted icing sugar 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2 Put the butter and water into a saucepan and melt the butter on a low heat without allowing the water to boil.
3 Sift the flour and salt together. 4 When the butter has melted, bring the water to boil. 5 When the boiling water encases the butter, tip the flour in and remove from heat. 6 Moving as quickly as you can beat the mixture together until it becomes thick and smooth. 7 Transfer to a plate to cool. When the choux mixture is an ambient temperature, tip it back to the pan and start adding the eggs gradually. 8 Lightly grease a baking sheet and using a teaspoon place six blobs on it, spaced well apart. 9 Bake for 20-30 minutes; do not open the oven for at least 20 minutes. 10 Meanwhile, add the sifted icing sugar into the double cream and whip until you get soft peaks and set aside to the fridge. 11 They are done when they are three times the size they were originally, golden in colour and light and feel like a pingpong ball. 12 With a skewer, make a small hole at the base of each profiterole and hollow out any raw mixture and leave to dry in a low oven. 13 Leave to cool. 14 Pipe the cream filling in. 14 To make the sauce: melt the chocolate, butter and water in a bowl over boiling water. 15 Dip your profiteroles in this mixture or serve as a sauce on the side.
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A truly breathtaking location for a winter getaway Stay with us before the end of February 2011 on a two night break for the amazing price of £199.00. Rate includes two nights accommodation, full English breakfast and three course dinner on the first night in our award-winning Oakwood restaurant. Includes VAT. Call or email now to book. Subject to availability.
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T: 0117 937 1800 E: info@tracypark.co.uk W: www.tracypark.co.uk Tracy Park, Bath Road, Wick, Nr. Bath BS30 5RN
Fabulous Fine Dining
We are pleased to announce we have officially been awarded our 2 AA rosettes under head chef Mark Jane for our Fabulous Fine Dining restaurant and to celebrate we are offering a special new year discount.
£10 OFF dinner per person Three course dinner with coffee for £29.00 instead of £39.00 per person Offer is valid from Sunday-Thursday from 7pm -9pm until 31.03.2011 Offer is valid for a maximum of four guests per table.
Please quote flavour when making your booking Wyck Hill House Hotel & Spa Burford Road, Stow-on-the-Wold, The Cotswolds, Gloucestershire GL54 1HY T: 01451 831 936 E: info.wyckhillhouse@bespokehotels.com www.wyckhillhousehotel.co.uk 36
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HOTEL, RESTAURANT AND SPA FORTHCOMING EVENTS MOUNT SOMERSET WEDDING FAYRE Sunday 30th January from 11.30am to 4pm
COOKERY DEMONSTRATION WITH LUNCH Tuesday 22nd February £35.00 per person.
VALENTINE’S DINNER Saturday 12th February and Monday 14th February £69.00 per person.
SUNDAY JAZZ WITH LUNCH Sunday 27th February £29.50 per person.
NEW WORLD WINE TASTING WITH A LIGHT SUPPER Thursday 24th March £29.50 per person.
SUNDAY JAZZ WITH LUNCH Sunday 27th March £29.50 per person.
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Lower Henlade, Taunton, Somerset TA3 5NB Tel: 01823 442500 Fax: 01823 442900 Email: info@mountsomersethotel.co.uk
www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk
UNVEILING AT THE MOUNT SOMERSET THIS OCTOBER Book any one hour facial in October & November and receive free use of the facilities. Quote MS01. Terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability.
Facilities will include: • A state of the art hydrotherapy pool • A thermal suite which includes a sauna & steam room • Relaxing foot spas • Experience showers • Beautiful treatment rooms offering [comfort zone] treatments • A fitness suite with Technogym equipment • A stunning spa terrace overlooking the gardens • Changing rooms with lockers and complimentary towels
MEMBERSHIPS, DAY PACKAGES AND TREATMENTS AVAILABLE.
For more information call us on 01823 442500 or visit us at www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk The Mount Somerset Lower Henlade Somerset TA3 5NB Telephone 01823 442500 Fax 01823 442900 thespa@themountsomerset.co.uk
Offering a fantastic venue in the heart of the city, perfect for relaxed and intimate dining for a valentines evening or to celebrate with a group of friends, The Brass Pig has something for everyone this Valentines day.
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With the Flavour Saver you can choose a three course meal from the set menu and receive a FREE bottle of Prosecco all for £19.90. What’s more, if you book before 1st February, you can have it at the special price of £16.90
Please call or email for details of our menu.
THE Brass Pig bar and dining 1 Clifton Heights, Triangle West, BRISTOL BS8 1EJ 0117 329 4471 info@thebrasspig.co.uk www.thebrasspig.co.uk 37
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✄ ‘Amare bene, dormire bene... mangiato bene’ (Love well, sleep well... eat well)
Rosemarino is now open on the site of the old York Cafe in Clifton Village. The emphasis is on freshly prepared food using a range of locally based artisan suppliers and producers, no fancy or complicated masterpieces – just great food from great ingredients. A substantial breakfast menu is available with fresh coffee and speciality tea.
t: 0117 973 6677 38
Lunch and dinner menus have an Italian feel based around simple and satisfying regional specialities. We would like to offer diners taking advantage of the ‘flavour saver’ free antipasti to kick off their meal Offer only valid when another dish is ordered and excludes Sundays. Runs from Jan 10th – Feb 11th.
1 York Place, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 1AH e: info@rosemarino.co.uk w: www.rosemarino.co.uk
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Bannatyne’s Charlton House Shepton Mallet, Somerset BA4 4PR T: 01749 342008 W: www.bannatyne.co.uk
C h a r lto n H o u s e Bannatyne’s Charlton House Spa Hotel has achieved an enviable reputation as one of the premier style hotels in the South West of England. There’s never been a better time to take advantage of some very tempting special offers…
2 for 1 Spa Day at Charlton House £99
Spa Day at Charlton House £30
Bargain Lunchtime Offer
Both you and a guest can choose from either an Elemis facial, Swedish back, neck and shoulder massage or a Leighton Denny custom manicure. You will also have full use of the thermal spa, gym and use of complimentary robe and slippers. The spa facilities include: hydrotherapy pool, crystal steam room, experience showers, Finnish sauna, laconium, ice fountain and fitness studio.
Your package will include one of the following mini-treatments: Leighton Denny on the move manicure, heavenly scalp massage, express makeover with bare minerals, hot lava shells mini-tummy treatment. You will also have full use of the thermal spa, gym and use of complimentary robe and slippers. The spa facilities include: hydrotherapy pool, crystal steam room, experience showers, Finnish sauna, laconium, ice fountain, fitness studio.
Enjoy a delicious two course lunch for £11.95 or indulge with a dessert with a three course lunch for £15.95. All the ingredients are locally sourced and freshly prepared. Available Monday – Saturday.
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The Fox is a smart country pub less than ten Flavour saver offer miles from Bath city centre. With a large selection includes 2 courses of food and drink, from hearty sandwiches to a for £13.95 or three course meal, the freshly prepared food is 3 courses for £16.95 sure to tickle your tastebuds. Proud advocates of local produce, the team at the Fox raise their own livestock plus an impressive vegetable plot and herb garden. Weekend lunchtimes and evenings are very busy so book to avoid disappointment. Bookings for Sunday lunch are essential.
Broughton Gifford Melksham SN12 8PW
Tel: 01225 782949 Web: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk
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Sample menu
January offer 2 courses plus a drink for £10 Set menu 2 courses £10, 3 courses £13.50 Starters Roast pumpkin soup with chestnuts and crispy sage (v) Pan fried red mullet with chorizo and spicy lentils Ham hock terrine with fig chutney and watercress
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Desserts Ginger parkin with clotted cream ice cream Lemon parfait with lemon posset and orange biscotti Chocolate fondant with whipped cream
Mains Leek and stilton deep shell tart with roast beetroot and hazelnut puree Toulouse sausage with lyonnaise potatoes and buttered greens Crisp roast lamb breast, Dauphinoise potato and green beans
85 Whiteladies Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2NT 01179 739302 www.thepicturehouse.eu
Winter specials
Why not relax and enjoy our comfortable surroundings and indulge in a few of our special offers.
2 Course Lunch Monday to Friday • 12pm-2pm • £10.00
Winter specials Winter specials Why not relax and enjoy our comfortable surroundings Winter specials
AN D BAR B AND
and indulge in a few of special offers. Why not relax and enjoy our comfortable surroundings Theour Cavendish @ Dukes Hotel Dukes Hotel, Great Pulteney Street, Bath, BA2 4DN and Why indulge in aand fewenjoy of our special offers. not relax our comfortable surroundings Tel: 01225 787960 • Email: info@dukesbath.co.uk and indulge in a few of our special offers.?
www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk
2 Course Lunch VB
2 Course Lunch 2 Course Lunch
Joha nsens Recommended
Monday to Friday • 12pm-2pm • £10.00
• 12pm-2pm • £10.00 Monday toMonday Fridayto •Friday 12pm-2pm • £10.00 40
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The Victoria Park is a newly refurbished Pub and Kitchen set amongst the houses surrounding the beautiful park of the same name to the southern edge of the city. We are open all day from 9am (11am Sundays) and offer an extensive drinks list. Whether you are looking for daytime coffee and cake or something a little stronger, we offer the perfect place to come and relax.
66 Raymend Road Bristol BS3 4QW Tel: 0117 3306043 Web: www. thevictoriapark. co.uk
The kitchen is open every lunchtime from 12pm serving the best of local and seasonal produce. Whether you are looking for a hearty winter warmer or something a little lighter for lunch, we aim to cater for all. Visit online for the latest menu. With the Flavour Saver you are entitled to
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25% off your total food bill
so why not come and check us out today.
The Three Horseshoes The Three Horseshoes is a 400 year old country pub tucked away in the beautiful Somerset village of Batcombe, with easy access to Bruton, The Royal Bath and West Showground and only 40 minutes from Bath and Bristol.
The Three Horseshoes Inn, Batcombe, Somerset, BA4 6HE 01749 850 359 www.thethreehorseshoesinn.co.uk info@thethreehorseshoesinn.com
Open to all, we welcome drinkers, foodies, walkers, dogs and children. Whether it be a quick pint and a pork pie in the bar or a three course dinner in our stunning dining room, you can be sure of a friendly welcome. The Flavour Saver will enable you to buy a starter and main course and get the pudding or a glass of house wine free. Available Monday – Saturday lunchtime and Sunday – Thursday evening only.
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The Catherine Wheel A grade I listed 17th century coaching inn sitting at the gateway to the Cotswolds, The Catherine Wheel pub boasts a long standing reputation for its warm atmosphere and traditional home cooked meals. Work up an appetite by trying one of the pub’s surrounding countryside walks or alternatively, kick back and relax in front of the fire. Take along the The new Sunday lunch menu includes some great hearty classics as well as all the traditional roasts. If you fancy making a night of it, choose from one of the four comfortable ensuite bedrooms followed by a superb farmhouse breakfast.
Flavour Saver to receive 2 for 1 on any lunch time meals. Available MondayFriday only, cheapest meal free.
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39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR Tel: 01225 892220 Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
January Offer 2011 Set Supper Menu (changes daily) £14.75 for 2 courses £3.75 for extra course Salmon gravadlax with beetroot purée + cucumber salad Pork, venison + sour cherry terrine with pickles + relish ~ Confit duck with pommes purée, wild mushrooms + peas Pollock fillet with caramelised chicory, herb crushed potatoes, orange butter sauce ~ Greek yogurt panna cotta with mixed berries + biscotti Apple + almond frangipane tart with crème fraîche, red fruit coulis
book online
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www.riverstation.co.uk
0117 914 4434
Offer valid Mon - Fri until 31st January Available for parties of up to 8 guests – dinner service only
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Wonderful Food Special Winter New lunch menu 2011 available. Offer for Flavour Special July offer for Readers Herefordshire Life readers: Dine at the award winning free glass of house wine or Tudor Farmhouse Hotel pint of January, draft beer for all during February diners eating two or the more and March and stay courses. night for half price. Please mention “Herefordshire Life LunchisOffer” booking. Offer for twowhen people staying one night until 31 March 2011 Tuesday Lunch Club – and is subject to availability two courses only (excluding 12, 13, 14 £12. February).
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Tel: 01594 833 046
High Street, Clearwell Royal Forest of Dean Gloucestershire GL16 8JS www.tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk
Two Rosettes
aquarias at Whatley Manor
Exclusive in the UK to Spa Aquarias - ‘The Iyashi Dôme’ Regenerating • Slendering • Detoxifying • Purifying
Hydrotherapy Pool • Scented Steam Cabins • Salt Scrub Showers Wave Dream Sensory Room • Aquarias Gym and Work-out Studio • Power Plate®
Relax and Revitalise in the New Year with a half day spa experience £130 includes full use of the spa facilities, a thirty minute ‘Iyashi Dome Ritual’ with an initial consultation and a forty five minute massage or facial. Revitalise during the day with a freshly made juice. Half day spa experiences are available Monday - Thursday from 9.00am to 1.00pm or 2.00pm to 6.00pm. Call Aquarias on 01666 827 070 or email aquarias@whatleymanor.com to make a booking
Whatley Manor Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB www.whatleymanor.com
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The Rocks is our fine dining restaurant, it boasts fantastic dishes with locally sourced ingredients, worked together by our head chef Brian Johnston. We also offer the very best pub meals in a relaxed setting in our bar.
Hotel, Restaurant & Bar Oceanfront living at Perranporth Beach allows you to eat well, sleep well and surf well; with everything you could need to have a relaxing break right on the doorstep.
With ever-changing specials, stunning views and beautiful artwork from Cornish artists adorning the walls, it is a perfect setting.
Don't miss our January sale.... Hotel rooms £30 per night Double or twin room with breakfast Buy one get one free on all main courses in our restaurant and bar for January & Feb Offer Monday to Friday (excluding holidays)
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visit www.seiners.co.uk to book mail info@seiners.co.uk or call: 01872 573118
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Seiners, Beachfront, Perranporth, Cornwall, TR6 0JL
Extraordinary Value for Country House Living
Tortworth ad:P.52
6/10/10
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The Park and The Brasserie, the two exceptional dining experiences at Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, are offering some very exciting special rates. The Park restaurant with its elegant décor is the perfect setting for a gourmet Michelin Star experience. Executive Chef Hywel Jones has a passion for full and clean flavours and locally sourced ingredients. The Brasserie is a stylish contemporary environment, open all day for relaxed and
informal dining. Alongside the á la carte menu, you can chose between a two course set lunch for £17 or a three course set dinner for £29. Truly exceptional value for some of the finest food in the region. Call 01225 742777 to book your table and ask about the unbelievable special January ‘Why Go Home?’ accommodation rates
Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ T: 01225 742777 W: www.lucknampark.co.uk
AT THE BRASSERIE
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For contemporary and stylish dining this Christmas season. Special 3 course festive menu available for
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> flavour ditch the diet
Crash-diets
take a nosedive!
Whilst the festive season is one which we can all revel in, taking the opportunity to indulge and de-stress from a hard working year, the downside means that come the new year, we are not feeling our best. It is at this time of year when people take drastic, unhealthy measures to fit into the little black dress, that a few weeks previously, didn’t seem like such a challenge. This month, we want to help you stay healthy and lose weight the sustainable way by keeping the weight off and eating the right food. By the end, you will be feeling and looking your best with a healthy lifestyle rather than a quick fix diet. If you lose weight by virtually starving yourself with water and apples then expect to keep it off, you may be very unpleasantly surprised. You fall under the category of crash dieter and the pounds that you’ve lost in the first week will make an unwanted return come the second as its mostly water. Your body recognises that it is being starved and reduces accordingly the amount of energy (or calories) it needs to function.
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Because you are severely restricting calories in a crash diet, it is not sustainable and as soon as you go back to eating normally you will put weight back on. Be aware that by starving yourself, you are also slowing your metabolism right down and it will take some time before it is restored to its normal state. Yo-yo dieting, as the name would suggest, is repeatedly adopting this type of dieting and then putting the weight back on again afterwards, and often a little bit more. Effects of this are multiple and potentially dangerous. Crash dieting is usually severely calorierestricted, which means the organs need to get energy from somewhere else. It can make you irritable and more likely to crave the very things you are trying to
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If you are looking to lose weight, tone up and feel healthy once again but are feeling lost in a maze of conflicting diets and exercise, then this month flavour can help. We want to steer you in the right direction to avoid any faddy diets and critical weight loss over the coming weeks. avoid. Very often you are avoiding whole food groups, which can lead to serious nutrient deficiency such as potassium and sodium. These are vital for healthy nerve and muscle function including maintaining our heartbeat. They may underperform, or in more severe cases this may lead to failure in the organ. In the long-term there is a very real risk of osteoporosis in people who yo-yo diet repeatedly. This list is not exhaustive, but we don’t wish to scaremonger too much! Read on to find out how you can adopt simple lifestyle changes which are effective and healthy. We have teamed up with some of our favourite producers as well as expert nutritionist Renarte Larkin to get your new year off to the healthiest, sustainable of starts. Good luck!
Crash dieting is usually severely calorie-restricted, which means the organs need to get energy from somewhere else
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> flavour ditch the diet
Why I’ve always chosen to eat organic and local
Claims and counter claims abound about the nutritional benefits of eating organic food, but there’s now a body of evidence that proves, due to the quality of soil, that organic fruit and veg does have higher levels of disease-fighting antioxidants, vitamin C, iron, magnesium and phosphorus, and significantly fewer nitrates. Organic milk contains higher levels of vitamin E, omega 3 fatty acids and beta-carotene. Animals reared organically for meat (whose short lives, incidentally, are much less traumatic all round) are not pumped full of antibiotics or other growth enhancing chemicals and hormones. Because much of our produce doesn’t have far to travel (a lot of it is grown nine miles away on The Community Farm overlooking Chew Valley Lake), you get a straight-out-of-the-soil freshness that supermarkets just can’t match. There are thousands of acres of land under organic
‘Give yourself and your family a fighting chance this winter’ says Phil. ‘Our St. Werburghs store has a great range of immune-boosting, bug-hating natural remedies, and the new Whiteladies Road store has the best selection of local organic fresh produce in the area.’
Comvita Olive Leaf Complex capsules ‘Olive leaf extract contains more than four times the antioxidants of vitamin C – that’s twice as much as grape seed extract and considerably more than cranberries, goji berries and pomegranates. It has well regarded anti bacterial, anti viral and anti fungal properties.’
MD of Bristol’s two Better Food Company organic shops, Phil Haughton, goes back to basics… My passion for organic food started when I was a teenager, full of youthful enthusiasm to protect the environment. As I’ve got older, had a family and seen the picture in a wider context, I’m now convinced it’s also a healthier way to eat, for mind, body and spirit.
Fight the winter bugs
cultivation (still only 3.4 per cent of the UK's agricultural land), supplying directly to independent food stores and box schemes like ours. I’ve definitely seen a wonderful upsurge in the range of UK-grown organic fresh produce over the past five years or so, and our own experience shows that there’s a genuine interest in it from the public at large – it’s not a middle class fad, it’s a mini agricultural revolution!
Cherry Active A cherry juice concentrate to be used like a cordial. A great immune support, with plenty of research to back it up. Helps regulate sleep patterns, improve brain function and help with muscle joint recovery. You have to ask for it though as it’s kept in the fridge to preserve its power!’
Local freshness and organic goodness also bolster our local economy and put food back at the heart of people’s lives. Between The Better Food Company, and my other ‘interest’ The Community Farm, we employ about 70 local people, and about 65 local businesses. That has an impact I’m very proud to be part of. By making these choices we build security in our community and our food, which given the current economic and ecologic climate must be good, sound sense.
St Werburghs store: 01179 351725 Clifton Store: 01179 466957 www.betterfood.co.uk
Stock up on superfoods ‘It’s also important to eat with the seasons and my top current three are beetroot, cabbage and celeriac, all in their own way ‘superfoods’ that will keep you stocked up with the vital vitamins and nutrients for this time of year.’
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> flavour ditch the diet
Ask an expert Renate Larkin is a fully qualified Nutritional Therapist. Having spent three years studying at the Institute for Optimum Nutrition in London as well as being a member of BANT (British Association for Nutritional Therapists), Renarte is passionate about good food. Keen to improve people’s health and energy, Renarte can prevent future illness, not only by changing what we eat but also the way we eat.
I eat a balanced diet, so are supplements necessary? Much of the food we buy today is depleted of nutrients (in some cases by up to 50 per cent compared to 50 years ago.) This is down to modern farming methods, the storing of foods for longer and heavy food processing. Stress, medication, food additives and pollution all place extra demands on the body. This, coupled with the confusion caused by supermarket labeling can leave people feeling confused about the best option. In this instance I would recommend that you speak to a Nutritional Therapist, who will determine whether you need to take supplements, and if so, which vitamins/minerals, what amounts and what brands are good, high quality and effective.
How can I start adopting a healthy diet?
Start by combining healthy protein, complex carbohydrate and essential fat with every meal including breakfast. It’s really important to make sure you are getting the full range of nutrients as many diets exclude whole food groups, denying your body of some essential nutrients.
I want to lose weight quickly, how can I do it? My advice is simple – don’t lose weight quickly! If you lose weight quickly, chances are you’re starving yourself and this isn’t sustainable.
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1 2
The three basic rules: Always have breakfast. Our grandmothers all used to tell us this, but the science really does back it up.
Always combine healthy protein, carbohydrate and some essential fat with every meal including breakfast. Keep up the levels of protein and essential fat, as these make you feel full and keep you fuller for longer, but reduce the amount of starchy carbohydrate.
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Don’t leave gaps of more than 4-6 hours between meals. Carry a healthy snack with you and don’t forget hydrating fluids during the day to keep up energy levels.
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What and how much exercise would you recommend for people to do as part of a healthy diet?
I enjoy both alcohol and chocolate. How can I fit them into my diet in a healthy way?
The Government recommends “noticeably” raising the heart rate for at least 30 minutes 3-5 times a week for the average healthy individual. This doesn’t need to involve joining a gym, but might include walking your dog twice a day, as long as you up the pace a little! Yoga or pilates can be enjoyed at any age and is vital for keeping your joints flexible, improving energy levels, de-stressing and working those deep muscles that tend to be forgotten when we are sitting at our desks all day.
What are the advantages of switching to a vegetarian diet? A vegetarian diet, if followed correctly, is probably one of the healthiest, but don’t assume that all vegetarians are healthy. For vegetarians, it is really important to ensure a good mix of protein at each meal including beans, pulses, lentils, tofu and soya. Protein is made up of a number of building blocks, called amino acids, all of which are found in animal protein, but not vegetable proteins. Other healthy sources of protein are fish, white meat and to a certain extent, lean red meat. Even for a meat eater, I recommend that we include vegetarian sources of protein into our weekly diet.
I firmly believe searching for optimal health is all about achieving a balance and that we don’t have to deprive ourselves of all the things we love! Alcohol is a type of poison for the body, but small amounts of red wine have been linked to reducing the risk of cardiovascular disease. If we are talking about weight management though, most alcohol is just empty calories and therefore undesirable. As such we shouldn’t drink more than about four glasses of wine a week, or something like vodka and slimline tonic. Chocolate really can make you feel good and can be good for you too! It has been shown to contain antioxidants, which may help against heart disease and can boost mood and energy levels. This is specific to the 70% proof dark chocolate. That said, we shouldn’t really call it a health food and it still does contain a lot of sugar, so like alcohol, it should be regarded as an occasional treat. 49
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The Hay Barn Spa, next to the farmshop, provides a nourishing space for self-reflection, understanding and rejuvenation...
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> flavour ditch the diet
healthy eating
Daylesford Organic With rest and rejuvenation firmly on the menu from a season of splurging and indulgence, then turning to Daylesford Organic for a little R&R is the natural choice. Regular shoppers in London’s affluent areas of Pimlico Road and Notting Hill will no doubt be familiar with the fabulous fare on offer in the Daylesford outposts. Just a stone’s throw from the heart of the operation in Gloucestshire however, we in the South West benefit from not only an award-winning farmshop and café, but also the Hay Barn Spa too. The Hay Barn Spa, next to the farmshop, provides a nourishing space for selfreflection, understanding and rejuvenation. Yoga, pilates, and meditation classes, workshops, facials and massage treatments provide exceptional holistic care for the mind, body and spirit. The Hay Barn’s magnificent yoga studio with sprung wood floor occupies the top floor and can accommodate 20 students. Whether you’re an experienced practitioner or interested in taking up a new class, the yoga and pilates schedule will have something for you. A wide range of treatments are available incorporating the natural range of Bamford Body products which were carefully developed for use at the Hay Barn. Select from a variety of massage, facial and stress reduction therapies, each holistic in approach.
suppliers who share their commitment to quality and sustainability and who produce items to Daylesfod recipes. They are fully transparent in that you can visit the farm to see for yourself how the animals are kept, where the vegetables are grown and how the food is produced. As supporters of the Soil Association and the Slow Food Movement, Daylesford place emphasis on respecting the food we eat and the land it comes from. As part of this ethos, they are dedicated to ethical, responsible sourcing of goods, sustainable packaging and a low carbon footprint. Everything from the food they sell, to the bottles, cartons, and tubs it comes in, fits in with the Daylesford way of life. With over 60 national and international awards from all areas of the farm, Daylesford is a name that you can trust to get your new year off to the most nourishing of starts.
Daylesford Farmshop Gloucestershire GL56 0YG 01608 731703 www.daylesfordorganic.com
Next door in the farmshop and café, all the food comes straight from the farms: the meat and poultry, fruit and veg from the market garden, bread from the bakery: and cheese, milk and yoghurt from the creamery. To make the soups and meals, the chefs use only the freshest ingredients, combined with simple techniques to bring out the natural flavours of the seasonal, organic produce. When they don’t make a product on the farm, they source from artisan 51
> flavour ditch the diet
flavour recommends
Wild Oats natural supplements Tiffins homemade curry For the ultimate curry dish packed full of all the best ingredients to set you on the healthy path, we love the fresh, tasty selection Tiffin’s Indian Takeaway in Bristol. Using the freshest, local ingredients, owners Nick and Jay Jethwa ensure the healthiest methods and preparation goes into their food, without one tablespoon of Indian butter. On the menu is an ancient Indian Ayurvedic dish Kahichadi, a curry made from split green lentils and a small amount of rice cooked with cinnamon sticks, tumeric powder and a little salt. A highly nutritious dish, it’s ideal for the stomach muscles as well as a first food for babies. This dish can be eaten on its own or with Kadhi, a lightly spiced yogurt soup. Together these dishes are particularly good for the digestive system. Eat in or take away for a healthy boost as required! 151 St Michael's Hill High Kingsdown Bristol BS2 8DB T: 01179 734834 W: www.tiffins-bristol.com 52
Our recommendation for the new year is to take Nature’s Plus Source of Life Gold tablets. These tablets contain enough of all the major nutrients including antioxidants to quickly get you bright eyed and bushy tailed after the festive season. Because they contain a high proportion of natural green, blue yellow and red wholefoods, they are easily absorbed even by the most depleted digestions, and for many people the beneficial effects are felt within six hours. The product comes in a vast range of options - liquid, mini tablets, capsules, chewables, a shake and even a bar! There’s a good amount of vitamin D3
(essential for most of us at this time of year, especially for those of a darker skin) and vitamin K2 (essential for good bone health). Wild Oats are offering free sample for you to try before you buy and because it sells on perceived results, it far outstrips sales of any of the other multivitamins in the shop. 9-11 Lower Redland Road Bristol BS6 6TB T: 01179 731967 W: www.woats.co.uk
> flavour brass pig
The Brass Pig 1 Clifton Heights Triangle West Bristol BS8 1EJ 01173 294471 www.thebrasspig.co.uk
the brass pig As a female in her early twenties, there are times when Faye Allen feels a little older than her age… I have spent many an hour complaining about the rudeness of the woman who didn’t watch where she was pushing her trolley, or the guy on the mobile phone in the post office queue detailing the events preceding his hangover for all to hear. At this time of year a common gripe of mine will be centred, rather predictably, on the weather; it takes something very special indeed to coax me out of the house. Cajoled into acting my age I decided to dust off the dress, don several pairs of tights and make my way to the latest addition to the Clifton area, The Brass Pig, where according to my colleagues, all of the young, trendy people can be found. Formerly La Tasca, the (not so) authentic taste of Spain, The Brass Pig occupies a large site on the Clifton Triangle. The design throughout the new venue is comfortable, modern and charming. Dark wood, fresh paint and grand leather chairs fill the two floors with plenty of space to spare. Downstairs you can fill your time comfortably sitting amongst friends with cocktails on tap from a well-stocked back bar and cooked bar snacks at arm’s reach. Upstairs is better suited to enjoying dinner
in a sit-down setting. Like the menu, the owners of The Brass Pig have sought out the Best of British and introduced a modern flourish. You’ll find a grand piano to sing along to with a warming glass of red and yes, it is of the shiny white variety. There’s also a wheel from part of the world’s first steampowered cider press, and yes, it is patent red and green. This is the kind of place where your steak comes on a rustic chopping board and the chips are chunky and twice cooked. Drinks range from the traditional Butcombe Blonde Ale and local Orchard Pig cider to vintage Champagne and Hendricks Gin served in teacups and saucers. Keeping up with the latest trend might come naturally to the beautiful people of Clifton, but the concept of good food, warming drinks and an easygoing atmosphere is by no means exclusive. A British-led eaterie such as The Brass Pig is a welcome addition to this part of town and here’s hoping The Clifton Triangle will see more of the same in 2011. ■
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> flavour australia day
Australia Day
Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School. January is generally framed as a pretty miserable month. All tired out from Christmas, sad discarded fir trees at the side of the road, slush, grey days, ice and snow. We feel compelled – and obliged – to detox. But don’t despair – towards the end of the month there is an excuse to get the wine glasses out again. Australia Day falls on January 26th and commemorates the arrival of the First Fleet at Sydney Cove in 1788, the hoisting of the British flag there, and the proclamation of British sovereignty. The day is seen as controversial for many Australians who view it as a celebration of
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Aboriginal culture’s destruction. However in the same year the first vineyards were planted in a a small area near what is now Sydney Harbour, and after a few years of struggling with the unfamiliar climate, the settlers achieved success and Australia’s wine culture was born. I prefer to celebrate Australia Day for this reason! Due to an oversupply of wine grapes, prices have fallen dramatically at times over the last two decades, kick starting the 3 for £10 deals we all know in the supermarkets. Whilst some of these are decent quality, it can also mean that some poorer wines creep in – with overcooked, overpowering flavours – and often no way to tell them apart. If that’s your only
experience, you can be forgiven for thinking all wine from Oz falls into this bracket. Luckily that’s not so. The size of the country alone means that there is a huge range of climates and styles of the resulting wines. This has been supported in no small part by the creation of Australia’s ‘First Families of Wine’ in 2009 to raise the profile of Australian wine to the world, and highlight the quality and diversity of Australian wine. So, as it’s January, let’s give a nod to our very worthy detox programmes and treat ourselves to a bottle of the good stuff – just one, not three – I guarantee you’ll enjoy it a whole lot more.
> flavour australia day
Set in the heart of Australia’s original wine region the Hunter Valley, Hungerford Hill winery has established a great reputation over the last four decades as an iconic producer of Semillon and Shiraz. This is helped by the underground barrel room where the wines are aged at a constant temperature all year round. If you fancy trying their wine somewhere nearer to home, you can sample a glass or two at Hatherley Manor Hotel outside Gloucester. A beautiful 17th Century country house hotel, this has a truly luxurious feel tucked away from the surrounding hustle and bustle. www.hatherleymanor.com Next we hop on a plane and fly five hours to Western Australia, a huge wine growing area, although it constitutes only about 5 per cent of the country’s wine volume. Much of the area has the cooling influence of the ocean and rainfall allowing a wide variety of different grapes to be planted here compared to the Hunter Valley. Look out for the Verdelho grape, which many winemakers are now experimenting with. A good example is Houghton’s Private Bin – from the most awarded winery in Western Australia – blended with Chardonnay, which lifts the ripe fruit flavours and makes it a much fresher, more modern wine. For a modern setting to suit, head for the Zen Japanese restaurant in Southampton and try it alongside their range of sushi, sashimi and other Japanese delicacies: ying and yang personified. www.zensouthampton.com
Only a 3 hour flight this time, back East towards Adelaide. In South Australia you’ll find some of the most famous sub regions which are best known for different grape varieties. We start with the increasingly well known but often misunderstood Riesling. Traditionally from Germany, this was historically made in a much sweeter style, but the Australians have pioneered the change into stunning crisp, dry wines with citrus fruit and mineral flavours. The Clare Valley is the ideal climate for this grape to develop as it is near the coast and relatively cool, allowing the grape to ripen over a longer period and achieve this fabulous complexity of flavour. Try the Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling and I’m sure you’ll agree. At the Hollies Hotel just outside Yeovil you’ll find an excellent restaurant to try it in as well as a striking bar with walk-in fireplace. www.thehollieshotel.co.uk Just down the road from the Clare Valley we find the Barossa Valley, famous for its incredible Shiraz. I’ve chosen a real ‘blow the budget’ wine here if you get the chance to try it because this wine is, quite simply, the ‘Shiraz of all Shirazes’ – if such a plural exists. Barossa Valley E & E Black Pepper Shiraz is the estate’s flagship wine, made from gnarled, 60 year-old vines which produce only a tiny yield each year. The intense fruit flavours are enhanced by 18 months' ageing for a truly powerful experience. I wasn’t surprised to find it in a great quality gastro-pub – the perfect setting – at the Cromwell Arms in Romsey. Two fabulous dishes jump out at me here for pairing with the wine – a lamb fillet with roasted garlic mash and thyme jus, and roasted duck breast with puy lentils, Dauphinoise potatoes and red wine sauce. www.thecromwellarms.com
For our last red – in a very different style – we skip across the water and over to Tasmania. As one of the coolest wine regions in Australia it is perfect for growing delicate grape varieties such as Pinot Noir – think of the cooler climate of Burgundy in France and you start to see the connection. Whirlpool Reach has certainly perfected theirs. Give the red meat a miss – this Pinot Noir has redcurrant and strawberry fruit flavours, a great match for mushroom and richer poultry dishes. You can find both along with a great ocean view at Cornwall’s Seiners Hotel in their Rocks Restaurant. After a walk on the beach to whet your appetite, try the chargrilled spinach polenta with creamy garlic wild mushrooms or the pan roasted chicken breast stuffed with chicken liver mousse. www.seiners.co.uk You may also be surprised to know that in the 19th century, the majority of Australia’s wine production was for sweet and fortified wines. Rutherglen on the Murray River in Victoria is still a top quality producer of dessert wines and the Rutherglen Brown Muscat the most famous product. The grapes are allowed to over-ripen and become almost raisin-like. Intensely and explosively sweet as they are, these wines are not as cloying as you might expect – but almost cleansing, like a sherry. The Campbells Muscat would make the ideal aperitif at this chilly time of year. I’d try it just like that at Chapel St Brasserie and Wine Bar in the heart of historic Penzance – perfect to cleanse the palate just before you tuck into their meltin-the-mouth French cuisine. www.chapelstbrasserie.com
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> flavour castle inn
castle inn This month Beth Hutchings finds warming treats with nooks a plenty at The Castle Inn… My first experience of The Castle was during a misspent youth, drinking cider suspiciously fermented with the aid of deceased rodents. It had its own curious charm. Refurbished in 2007, you do not have to look hard to find a very different charm at The Castle Inn situated at the top of the hill in Bradford-on-Avon. Seven miles outside Bath and a (vigorous) short walk from the train station, it has become a popular venue both with locals out for a drink and more distant diners. On a frosty eve my partner Mr Z and I entered the magnificent 18th Century Inn through a heavy, wreathed door. Inside, shadows cast intrigue along Victorian nostalgia sepia walls while burlesque chic lamps lined flagstone floors and thickset candles set the mood.
The Castle Inn 10 Mount Pleasant Bradford-on-Avon Wiltshire BA15 1SJ 01225 865657 www.flatcappers.co.uk/thecastle 56
Mr Z enjoyed a pint of Pewsey brewed Flatcappers Ale, I, my favoured Chilean Sauvignon Blanc; a pleasing combination of zesty undertones with a fruity finish. The starters arrived promptly. We had chosen three dishes from the ‘Grazing’ section of the menu (£7.95 for three), ideal for those avoiding an intimate relationship with Rennies if eating late. I sampled the patatas bravas which were topped with spicy salsa and Mr Z tucked in to wellseasoned sticky lemon, chilli chicken wings. The stuffed vine leaves lived up to British expectations of what a stuffed vine leaf should be and were very pleasant. For mains, I enjoyed a Portobello mushroom and chestnut pie with a Parmesan puff pastry crust served with creamed spinach and chunky chips (£8.95).
Light pastry topped a pot of mushrooms in a well balanced, creamy sauce. I found the chestnuts rather large and thought that something with a different texture would complement the soft mushrooms better. Sadly my creamed spinach lacked character. Mr Z had the rib-eye steak, meaty grilled mushrooms, house salad and fries (£14.95). A cup of sweet tea and a nap would have been wise at this point. However our friendly and attentive manager informed us the sticky toffee pudding was ‘to die for’ (£5.50). Moments later, we immersed our spoons into the velvety sponge that idled in a perfect pool of toffee sauce and got the ‘ooohs’ and ‘ahhhs’ it deserved. The accompanying vanilla ice-cream melted into the mix and helped soften the enduring sweetness. Putting aside any quibbles I had with a chestnut, we both thoroughly enjoyed our dining experience. As a man who feels the need to clear his plate, Mr Z seemed concerned with the portion sizes. However they cater equally for those who wish to tackle a sturdy serving of fish and chips and those who prefer a myriad of flavours and textures arranged in a neat tower. Ingredients are sourced locally and most produce is made on the premises. The staff were friendly and calmly efficient. They thoroughly deserve praise for what has been accomplished in the refurbishing and subsequent metamorphosis of The Castle Inn; an ideal bolthole to spend a winter’s eve. ■
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They cater equally for those who wish to tackle a sturdy serving of fish and chips and those who prefer a myriad of flavours and textures arranged in a neat tower
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> flavour chef profile
chef profile Name: Peter and Jonray SanchezInglesias Originally from: Whitchurch, Bristol Head Chefs at: Casamia Restaurant Food is in our blood. During our childhood holidays on the beaches of Cornwall Dad would teach us to select mussels from the shores, clean and cook them back at the caravan. He’d dexterously show us how to skin a rabbit as we looked on in awe. Our parents originally opened Casamia in 1999 as a traditional Italian trattoria and that’s where we first started to work professionally in the kitchen. The most satisfying thing about the industry is making people happy and receiving good feedback in return. If someone says, “That was the best meal I’ve ever had,” then no other feeling compares. Cooking professionally is all about team work. Working with a good, close team is really enjoyable. Team dynamics are so important – and that must be built on respect, which is crucial. We opened somewhere before Casamia but this restaurant has really taken off! We’ve had more support, financially and emotionally, from our family and friends. We’ve also been able to sustain the numbers much better in Bristol. As a city, Bristol has a more ingrained eating-out culture and people seem to like trying something new. Our Michelin star has also obviously helped too! Casamia Restaurant 38, High St Westbury-on-Trym Bristol BS9 3DZ 01179 592884 www.casamiarestaurant.co.uk
The aim of our food is to make people happy and to get them thinking a little bit more about ingredients. We don’t create classic dishes, but we like to surprise people by combining unusual flavours. Our cooking has developed massively – it’s an ongoing process.
Working with Gordon Ramsay on Gordon’s Best Restaurant was unbelievable, he was so inspiring and so supportive. He pushed us to our limits, yet was keen to instil confidence and encourage us to believe in ourselves. He’s a really nice guy. We were surprised how down-to-earth, passionate, hard working and open-minded he is. Winning the show has been really overwhelming. Most people have been very positive and excited about the whole show, we’ve even been asked for our autographs! It was a really good thing for us, because more people now know what we’re about. Bookings have gone crazy and the number of emails following the programme have been unbelievable. We’re not really used to being in the limelight, but we’re enjoying it and we certainly don’t take it for granted. We’ve got lots of ideas to develop the restaurant in different directions – watch this space! Of course we’d ultimately like to gain three stars but for now, it’s just about continuing to work really hard. It’s great working together as brothers – you can say exactly what you think without worrying about upsetting each other and if we argue, we get over it much more quickly! We’ve known each other all our lives and that means we understand how each other thinks. We’re both on the same wavelength. ■
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s.pdf
GOLD Nantwich Show 2 0 10
GOLD
Royal Bath & West Show 2 0 10
Email:sales@parkfarm.co.uk www.parkfarm.co.uk
Don’t forget to check our website for more information on events coming up this year!
14/12/2010
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Winsley, Bradford on Avon BA15 2JB [t] 01225 864948 www.hartley-farm.co.uk
> flavour berry blue
berry blue From time to time we’d all like someone to wave a magic wand and help us put on the perfect party. Thankfully, people such as Michael Dart from Berry Blue Creative Food are on hand make your wishes come true… I have always had a passion for cooking since I was a child. I left school and within a few days I started work as a chef in a small bistro in my home town of Romsey, Hampshire. I have worked in many independent high-end restaurants throughout my 11 year career. I felt Berry Blue was the right place for me because I am passionate about using quality, seasonal produce to create interesting and exciting dishes. The main challenge, and one we relish, is always coming up with fresh, innovative dishes using seasonal produce. Sometimes the produce we order doesn’t turn up or the crop fails due to the weather, so we have to think on our feet and come up with something new. The reward is definitely seeing people enjoying our food. We want the food to be a memorable part of any event. We don’t just provide food, we can also advise on party themes, décor and table design. We make sure the event runs seamlessly and always work closely with the client to offer a bespoke service that fits with their event. The Berry Blue farm in Gloucestershire was a Grade II farmhouse renovated by Louise Brown, owner of Berry Blue. It has a large vegetable patch, orchard and free range chickens. We do things like pick gluts of fruit and turn them into jams and chutneys to use later in the year. Having the farm also means the business is very eco-friendly because food waste either gets composted or fed to the chickens and we keep air miles down by using local food. Our ethos is simple; to use local, seasonal, fresh produce. We have always grown all the food, anything we can’t get from the farm we try and source from within a 60 mile radius and if it is an imported product, such as tea or sugar, then we buy Fairtrade.
One of our most memorable events has been the open days we catered for at Jekka’s Herb Farm in South Gloucestershire last year. If you haven’t heard of Jekka McVicar she is a renowned herb grower with 14 Chelsea Gold awards. Last year we were exclusive caterers for her popular open days. We also catered for a carbon reduction seminar for a firm of lawyers. Every fruit and vegetable used in the dishes came from our farm and the meat was all sourced locally. It was great to extend the theme right down to the food served. We are really pleased to be catering for Jekka again this year and will be creating even more delicious herb infused dishes. We are working towards Soil Association ‘Food for Life’ accreditation to recognise our use of local produce. And look out for details about our cookery courses, which were a huge success. They are held at the farmhouse where we teach people how to use seasonal produce in their food. Join us on Facebook and Twitter to be first to hear about the cookery school dates. ■
Berry Blue Creative Food Upper Upthorpe Farm 11 Upthorpe Cam, Gloucestershire GL11 5HR T: 01453 544780 W: www.berry-blue.co.uk 61
• Rosemary Restaurant • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch • “All you can eat” dinner on Thursdays • Japanese à la carte menu • Afternoon cream tea on the patio
The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk
StantonHouseHotel www.stantonhouse.co.uk
> flavour drops by
Owned by Warren Jones and managed by Michelle Turner-Bayly, Maples Deli in Bradford-on-Avon has everything you want from a deli: a central and charming location, a wide range of exciting produce, plenty of space to swing a cat and a café to enjoy a cup of freshlyground coffee to boot. The counter is of course the bread and butter of any successful deli and Maples is no exception, but look behind you and you’ll be confronted by a multitude of jars, bottles, tubs, boxes and bags in a rainbow of colours and languages that will have your taste sensations on overdrive before you even know what it is that you are looking at. Get closer and you’ll see pasta, panettone, olive oil and jam. There are Amaretto biscuits, chillies, meringues, chocolates and bottles of Somerset Orchard Pig cider. Because Britain is not known for its salamis and olive oils some of the produce is naturally imported, but it has been chosen carefully and is of the best quality. That said, much of it is sourced locally such as the Ivy House Farm milk, cream and butter, Marshfield Bakery icecream and Bath honey. Michelle has a passion for food that comes with a wealth of knowledge and experience – that care and attention comes through in the progressive ideas she has about Maples. Salads, sandwiches, soups, pâtés and frittatas are all made in the modest kitchen on the premises and are well worth sampling either in-house or in the comfort of your own home. There’s something a bit special about Maples which keeps it busy and energetic. This small emporium offers produce that you can’t just go and pick up in the supermarket without sifting through factory packed goods in a soulless, out-of-town, free-for-all. There are no loyalty points on offer here but the knowledge and care of its team more than makes up for it.
Maples Delicatessen & Café No. 4 The Shambles Bradford-on-Avon
drops by... flavour
maples
01225 862203 www.maplesdeli.com
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The Bristol
Kitchen Company Fine bespoke furniture
At The Bristol Kitchen Company we take pride in our ability to provide a personal design and furniture making service using the latest technology. We offer bespoke kitchens at a competitive price but we never cut corners. Every kitchen, and all of the furniture we make, is designed specifically and purpose built from scratch. With our unsurpassed attention to detail and quality of workmanship we are able to manage all aspects of the project and provide detailed service drawings and specifications.
The Bristol Kitchen Company Beautiful furniture designed to suit you needs...
T: 0117 914 0340 W: www.thebristolkitchencompany.co.uk E: info@thebristolkitchencompany.co.uk
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> flavour cowley manor
cowley manor Cowley Manor may be found on the outskirts of Cheltenham, but as flavour discovers this month, it’s firmly at the centre of the zeitgeist… During my first visit to Cowley Manor almost two years ago, I left with my mother’s sage words ringing in my ears: don’t try to be all things to all people. This might sound like a criticism; in fact it’s quite the opposite. The beau monde of country house hotels currently faces the challenge of appealing to young aspirational professionals without alienating a more traditional market. But in my humble opinion, it’s those who commit to one side of the fence who seem to thrive. So it is at Cowley Manor. Despite the estate itself dating back as far as the Doomsday Book, having been exchanged by its former owner Edward the Confessor for the land on which he built Westminster Abbey, the main house was built as little as 100 years ago. At the time its Italianate style was rare for a grand stately home, yet the aim of such architecture was to showcase a new style of modern country living. Far from being a solely conceptual aim, the inventions and designs used in its construction were considered groundbreaking – it was, as just one example, the first private house in England to use concrete.
Cowley Manor Cowley Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NL 01242 870900 www.cowleymanor.com 66
Sadly the house fell into disrepair but was bought in 1999 and meticulously restored to its former glory, along with some very intriguing additions. In a bid to uphold the tradition of innovation, Cowley Manor is unreservedly modern with vibrant fabrics and statement artworks throughout. Perhaps my favourite is a stunning two-storey glass mobile suspended near reception. The hotel boasts 15 spacious bedrooms in the main house with a further 15 in a renovated stable block, all of which are a showcase for young British designers’ handiwork. With attention to detail being
essential to the operation, Nakamichi CD players, Bose Ipod docking stations and DVD players are all part of the service. And with a selection offering everything from Beethoven to Björk and Gone With the Wind to Gangs of New York, the impressive CD and DVD collection will make sure you make the most of them too. Priding themselves on allowing guests to be as visible or invisible as they like, dining at Cowley Manor is as formal as you make it. You might want to simply order an open steak sandwich with rocket shallots and horseradish to your room, nibble on some prosciutto, queen green olives and thick cut sourdough in the bar or take a table in their grand 50 cover dining room. I opted for the latter and noted a thoughtful menu and expedient service. Of particular note was a triumphant pressed ham hock and parsley with red pepper chutney, fennel salad and port reduction: in showbiz speak, this dish had the balance of light (the zing of the fennel and red pepper chutney) and shade (the richer flavours of ham hock and port reduction) just right. A dessert of caramelised apple and hazelnut pastry with white chocolate and lemon thyme sauce may well sound like a complex concoction worthy of a Masterchef hopeful, but its execution was faultless. It seems fitting that Lewis Carroll visited Cowley regularly and drew inspiration for his greatest work Alice in Wonderland at Cowley Manor, because there really is something other-worldly about the place. Certainly not a hotel for those with a taste for the conventional, but all the better for it. After all, who’s to say what avant-garde adornments will greet visitors in another 100 years’ time...? ■
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In a bid to uphold the tradition of innovation, Cowley Manor is unreservedly modern with vibrant fabrics and statement artworks throughout
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daylesfordorganic.com
Lovejoys Wholesale
THE LOVELIEST fISH &cHIpS In THE SOUTH WEST!
papa’s fish restaurant
Enj o y a caon m pDl i mtean K t ae r yaW l u naY ch in our a wa rd -win n i n g c a f é w h e n y o u j oin u s f o r a d e e p t i s sInde u ependmentlay svotesdabyg e Daily Mirror readers as Best at t h e H a y B a r n S p a -Fisht&oChipbsoinothekSoutthe h West! ~ pl e a s e c a ll 0 1 6 0 8 7 3 1 Rece 7 0nt3winn . ers of
• Fruit • Dairy
Quality ingredients for restaurant kitchens in the West Wilts and Bath area. Local produce grown exclusively for us including specialist crops.
The Regenera
Avai l a b l e we e k d a ys u n t il t h e eand n d Wes o f ton F tion eMer b rPart u aners r y hip for and a ca f é m a i n c o u rse . M e n t io n Star f laFM’s vo uBusi r wness h ecury n b o o k in g . of the
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Award
5/8/10
‘If you are passionate about your food we’d like to talk to you’
Year
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01225 708838
Papa’s Fish Restaurant and Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~ Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com
FLAVOUR AD.indd 2
• Vegetables • Bread
www.lovejoyswholesale.com
06/01/2011 17:54
THE LOVELIEST FISH &CHIPS IN THE SOUTH WEST!
The Blue Bowl Inn Country Pub & Restaurant
PAPA’S
Good food, food, well well kept Good kept ales ales and a warm welcome! and a warm welcome!
FISH RESTAURANT A N D T A K E A WAY Inde
pendently voted by off the beaten track Daily Mirr or readers as the Best Fish & Chips in the South West! but well worth finding ~ Recent winners of The Regeneration Partners hip and Weston Mercury and Star FM’s Business of the Year Award
Winner - Silver Taste of the West Award 2010 for 2nd year running for its committment to local food Papa’sBook Fish Restaurant Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~ your and Christmas party now! Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN Tel 01278 662629 Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com
www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk
The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ
Tel. 01761 221269 The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ !
www.thebluebowl.co.uk Tel. 01761 221269 ristmas h or C www.thebluebowl.co.uk f w k no Boo
> flavour siân blunos
Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child. With the extravagance of the festive season behind us it’s a good time to think about good value wholesome ingredients, pulses being one of my favourites and most versatile. Pulses refer to the dried, edible seeds of leguminous crops these include dry beans, peas, chick peas, lentils and lima beans, and many more. Pulses are grown all over the world – India and Pakistan being both the largest producers and consumers. Pulses are a great source of protein for all the family, however unlike meat, fish and eggs, they don’t contain large amounts of essential amino acids necessary for growth so are usually consumed with other cereals and vegetables to improve their nutritional value. Soya beans are an exception to the rule because their protein content is very good.
Cooking for Coco Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.
To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com
know your
pulses Whole pulses contain insoluble and soluble fibre. Insoluble fibre is helpful as it guards against constipation so reduces the risk of colon cancer. Soluble fibre help in lowering blood cholesterol levels and thus reduces the risk of cardiovascular diseases. Another good thing to know is that they contain no cholesterol at all. The starches and carbohydrates content of pulses are complex type and are digested and absorbed slowly. This means the glycemic index of pulses is low, making them an ideal energy source for our little ones. All in all, a healthy wholesome way to start the new year.
Ham with lentils and carrot If you do cook your own ham, this is a lovely way to use it and to use the stock, as long as it is not too salty. Otherwise, buy a good-quality ham from the supermarket or deli. My son Leon loves this fried as bubble and squeak for his breakfast! Makes 6-8 portions 4 medium potatoes for mash (about 450g) 25g unsalted butter 10ml sunflower oil 1 small onion, peeled and chopped 1 small clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely diced 100g red lentils, washed 570ml unsalted ham, chicken or vegetable stock 175g cooked ham, sliced or diced Method 1 Prepare the potato mash and set
aside. 2 Heat the butter and oil in a pan and gently fry the onion, garlic, carrot and lentils for 4 minutes. Add enough stock to cover the vegetables and cook for 35-40 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding a little more stock as it gets absorbed. Add the ham and cook for a further 3-4 minutes. 3 Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool completely. Whiz the mixture in a food processor then add to the mashed potato, adding more stock to correct the texture if necessary. For older babies you could mash the mixture or leave it chunky. Divide into portions, then serve or freeze.
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> flavour leeks
The British leek is a vegetable that is at its best during the coldest months of the year and because it’s packed with nutrients and crucial antioxidants, it will help stave off winter colds and flu too. But don’t take our word for it, try these delicious recipes and we’re sure you’ll soon agree!
like leeks?
DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS... Legend has it that in 640AD, the Briton King Cadwallader and his men were engaged in battle with invading Saxons. To distinguish themselves from the enemy, the Welsh wore leeks in their hats – and subsequently gained a great victory over their opponents. The leek is also associated with the Welsh Saint David. During the Middle Ages when Saint David was alive the leek was seen as a healthy and virtuous plant. Extraordinary qualities were claimed for it. It was the original health food, high in fibre, good for purging the blood, keeping colds at bay and healing wounds. During this period the leek also acquired mystic virtues. It was claimed that girls who slept with a leek under their pillow on St. David’s Day would see their future husband in their dreams.
Leek, Smoked Chicken, Broad Bean and Savoy Soup Serves 4 Ingredients 2tbsp olive oil 1 medium white onion finely chopped 1 garlic clove peeled and finely chopped 200g sliced leeks 100g shelled broad beans 100g shredded Savoy cabbage 1l chicken stock 200g shredded smoked chicken Salt and cracked black pepper Small bunch of flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped Extra virgin olive oil 1 small rustic loaf 70
Method 1 Over a low heat in a medium sized saucepan, fry the onion, garlic and leeks in the olive oil. Cook until soft, about 10 minutes 2 Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Add the broad beans, Savoy cabbage and smoked chicken and cook for a further 5 minutes 3 Season with salt and pepper. 4 Serve in warmed bowls with extra virgin olive oil and bread
> flavour leeks
Salad of Celeriac, Leeks and Pesto with Roasted Chicken Serves 4 Ingredients 2 leeks 1 peeled and washed celeriac 15 big leaves of basil 50g roasted pine nuts 200 ml olive oil 1 garlic clove 50g grated Parmesan cheese Milled pepper Finely chopped shallot 25g butter 2 teaspoons clear honey Method 1 Trim the leeks so that you are left solely with the root, white and an inch of green. Cut along the centre of the leek lengthways stopping 1cm short from the root. Discard
the outside tough leaves and then rinse the leek thoroughly under cold water. Place on the chopping board and now trim the root and cut the leek totally in half. Cut the leek into 2-inch lengths. Cut the peeled celeriac into half inch diced pieces. 2 Place the celeriac into cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes until tender then drain the liquid and place the celeriac back into the pan. Add the butter and place onto a gentle heat to melt. Add the shallots and the leeks. Stir gently for 2 minutes until tender. Season with the pepper and add the honey. Make the pesto by blending together the basil, Parmesan, olive oil, garlic and pine nuts until a good paste consistency. 3 Once the leeks and celeriac are cold stir in two generous spoonfuls of pesto and combine well. Serve with roasted chicken.
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> flavour real food resolutions
Real Food Resolutions
Start 2011 by taking small steps to becoming a better foodie!
Think inside the box…
Meat Free Monday By giving up meat for one day each week you can save money, reduce your environmental impact and live a healthier life. MFM encourages people to have one meat-free day each week, making steps towards reducing the carbon foortprint associated with the meat industry.
For a fantastic way to get your fivea-day veg box schemes are a healthy and economical solution. Support your local farmer with veg, fruit or meat box deliveries and keep up with the seasons. Riverford organics based in Devon, deliver veg boxes to your door and to your requirements. They will also include several recipes to help you on your way. Boxes start from as little as £5.95. www.riverford.co.uk
By joining the Soil Association you can support the transformation of the UK’s food culture, give your beliefs a voice and become part of the solution. Signing up means you will receive their magazine, Living Earth as well as exclusive offers with many independent retailers and producers as well as much more. Membership costs start from just £2 a month. www.soilassociation.org
www.supportmfm.org
Embrace the digital age… Blogging is a fantastic online resource to get creative and share your recipes, thoughts, hints and tips with a wider community. As well as being great fun and easy to do, blogging allows you to communicate your favourite foodie facts with like-minded people. To get you started, try www.wordpress.com
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Join the Soil Association
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> flavour real food resolutions
Keep it local Try flavour Editor Holly Aurelius-Haddock’s top tip when it comes to keeping it local: “I buy a lot of my basic items such as cleaning products online which leaves me more time to go and visit my local independent stores. Find out their opening hours too as they don’t always shut up shop before you finish work – you may be very pleasantly surprised!”
Learn a life skill
The Soil Association's Organic Farm School, supported by the Daylesford Foundation, is a series of hands-on courses in growing your own food, rearing animals, cooking and rural crafts. Learn from the experts and take part in bee keeping, vegetable growing, hedge laying, to dry stone walling and many others.
The Big Freeze Rediscover the merits of using your freezer. When cooking, remember to portion out any leftovers and put them in the freezer. This saves wasting your culinary delights and means that you don’t have to nip down the chippie when you want to cheat!
Soil Association members receive 25% off the cost of any course they attend. www.soilassociation.org
To market There’s no better feeling than supporting your local, independent producers who work tirelessly throughout the year to bring us the best of British food. We stumbled across a fantastic website that tells you where and when your local market is. Search by your county or postcode and enjoy a morning of wandering through your local treats. www.farmersmarkets.net
Shop Smart
Push your Palate Try a new ingredient every week and test it out on friends and family. Don’t be afraid of using cookbooks and online resources. Once your store cupboard is full of the essentials, finding recipes will be a doddle.
Every year we throw away 8.3 million tones of food and drink which equates to about £12 billion. With all of that waste we could fill 4,700 Olympic sized swimming pools! Shop smart by writing a shopping list and think about portion sizes as you’re shopping and look forward to saving a few pounds every month. For some great ideas on what to do with your leftovers visit: www.lovefoodhatewaste.com
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> flavour masterchef live
Masterchef in the making During the recent Masterchef Live event at Birmingham NEC, we challenged flavour reader and cooking enthusiast Matthew Kennedy to put his skills to the test under the watchful eye of the show’s judges – cooking doesn’t get much tougher than this! I love food, cooking and most importantly Masterchef! It’s a great show and the fact that Michel Roux Junior – one of the greatest chefs of all time – is willing to put his name to it is testament to that. Seeing how the chefs develop over the period of the show makes it addictive viewing in my house. Being offered the chance to take part in the event’s Invention Test, meet previous winners and the judges was a dream come true. The fact that it was taking place in my hometown of Birmingham was a real bonus. The city is so diverse and dynamic for food, with chefs like Glen Purnell leading the way. For those who aren’t familiar with the format of the Invention Test, it’s one of the first tests contestants face on Masterchef. You’re given a set of ingredients and the basics (butter, milk etc) and half an hour to cook a dish to impress. I was given a pork fillet, aubergine, star anise and some other spices, so decided to cook pork in a white wine lemon sauce, paprika infused rice and a smoked baba ghanoush. For the latter dish I had a helping hand from previous winner Mat Follas (pictured above) who taught me the technique of smoking – it turned what was a basic aubergine purée into something quite special.
What followed was half an hour of smoke, chopping, whizzing, boiling, laughter and a whole lot of cream! Along the way I had a few dramas, starting with spilling a whole tub of double cream over the cooker, which got Masterchef judge John Torode bemused as to what on earth I was doing! That, combined with pluming smoke coming from my baba ghanoush and several other pans with burning oil, made my worktop an interesting place to be. When Andi Peters reassured me that there were fire extinguishers on standby I knew I must have been creating quite a spectacle! Before I knew it, the countdown began and it was judging time. The two previous winners tasted all 12 plates and selected the best three to be tasted by Masterchef judges John Torode and Gregg Wallace. Mine did resemble a pile of grey wallpaper paste, but it’s all in the taste and when Matt and Druv tasted my cream sauce they got the lemon kick so I kept fingers crossed. Andi then read out the three names and mine was one of them. Greg and John were very polite in the final round tasting, telling me that the flavours were good but I’d tried to do too much.
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They would have rather had a big bowl of the baba ghanoush or just the pork but not both. They did say people who get through to the later rounds always do too much in the Invention Test so I was happy with their feedback. I came second to a lovely middle-aged Indian lady who took the prize with a tasty looking pork curry. All the show’s familiar faces were great in person. Dhruv and Matt were both very welcoming and their passion shines through. Dhruv has a busy year ahead opening his first restaurant next year while Matt’s Dorset-based restaurant The Wild Garlic is going from strength to strength. Go and check out some of his smoking! The Masterchef judges are very serious when judging but really they're just big softies. You take for granted that it’s a lot easier to think of a well balanced, decent dish sitting on your sofa than it is in front of 200 people, a load of cameras and with only five minutes’ thinking time – I definitely have a new found respect for all the contestants now I’ve had a glimpse of the pressure they’re under. ■
> flavour xxxxxxx
. . . l a i c e p s r e t n i W 8 Course Tasting Menu Assiette Surprise Goats cheese Bon Bon, Golden Beetroot Terrine, Candied Walnuts Crispy Pork Rillette, Spiced Butternut Puree, Baby Figs Orkney Scallops, Spiced Parsnip Puree, Macerated Golden Raisins Duo of Mallard, Celeriac, Turnip, Orange and Tarragon Sorbet Assiette of Desserts Coffee & Petit fours Only £55 per person
This menu has been designed to be enjoyed by the whole table
A discretionary 10% gratuity will be added to your bill.
AND BAR
The Cavendish @ Dukes Hotel Great Pulteney Street, Bath, BA2 4DN • Tel: 01225 787960 • Email: info@dukesbath.co.uk
www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk VB AA
Johansens Recommended
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Photo: kim millan
www.pebblebed.co.uk
Devon has everything, even the fizz