Flavour Magazine March 2011

flavour for people who love local food

South West | Issue 37 | March 2011

£3 (Where sold)

Michel Roux Why British service has a long way to go

WIN! A VIP package to the Exeter Festival of Food & Drink!

Upper Crust Delicious ideas for British Pie Week

Finer Taste

www.flavourmagazine.com

flavour’s annual guide to the perfect wedding

Hoofing (hüf-ing) verb.

A Royal Marines term used to describe something fantastic.

‘HOOFING’

Alc 4.0% Vol

Donations from the sale of bottled and cask beer will be given to the Royal Marines Charitable Trust Fund which supports 40 Commandos’ rehabilitation of Marines and their families

Tel: 01984 624086 Visit: www.cotleighbrewery.com Email: sales@cotleighbrewery.com

ABV 4.0%

Introducing Commando Hoofing, a light golden beer sold in bottles and casks to celebrate 40 Commandos’ return from operational deployment in Afghanistan.

Sponsored by Michael Caines MBE at the Exeter Food and Drink Festival this year, the latest addition to the Cotleigh Brewery range is, quite rightly, favoured by the best of the best.

welcome

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Deputy Editor: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Clare Wicks, Account Manager Email: clare@flavourmagazine.com

Welcome to the March issue of flavour!

Charlotte Amos, Account Manager Email: charlotte@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, Eamonn McCabe, James Walker Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Peter Swanepoel, Mitch Tonks

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Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication.

The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

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38

contents 8 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanepoel bring you the best of the season’s produce 12 Michel Roux

Why British service has a long way to go 17 WIN!

A VIP package to the Exeter Festival of Food & Drink

As I write this, sunlight streaming through the window behind me, the promise of warmer days and lighter evenings is almost real enough to touch. So as the natural world stretches and yawns its way out of a deep slumber, what better time to visit your local National Trust property (PAGE 72) with a spring in your step?

Talking of new beginnings, it seems that I’ve reached the tender age where my peers are starting to take the plunge and can safely say that wedding season is upon us.

Quite understandably, everyone wants their big day to be one they’ll remember forever, which is exactly why we’ve spoken to some of the region’s top venues and suppliers on PAGE 39. Trust me, these guys could dream up a fairy-tale ending in their sleep.

I was also delighted to catch up with the great Michel Roux Senior in his second interview for flavour. Having recently returned from Thailand, this serious yet charming man was full of praise for the country’s delicate cuisine, and had some very kind words to say about his famous nephew too...

Matrimony and marvel aside, this issue wouldn’t be complete without some mouthwatering recipes – turn to PAGES 24, 21, 29 and 67 for some divine inspiration!

We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much we’ve enjoyed making it.

29 Upper Crust

Delicious ideas for British Pie Week 39 Finer Taste flavour’s annual guide to

the perfect wedding

Happy Eating!

Holly Aurelius-Haddock

> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month The True Taste of Cornwall Escape to the Country Located on a family-run dairy farm on the edge of the Quantock Hills, Clavelshay Barn and Restaurant is offering the perfect excuse to escape to the country mid-week and enjoy delicious food in a unique and beautiful setting. Enjoy two courses every Wednesday and Thursday for £17.50 or three courses for £22.50.

A proper Cornish pasty has a distinctive D shape with a chunky filling made up of uncooked mince or roughly cut chunks of beef. To celebrate, the CPA is launching a book, The Little Book of the Pasty, which will be available in stores next month.

T: 01278 662629 W: www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk

www.cornishpastyassociation.co.uk

Bath Soft Cheese flavour is pleased to announce that the Bath Soft Cheese Co. have been exclusively chosen to cater for Royal Ascot this year. Famous for its delicious Wyfe of Bath cheese, winning numerous awards including gold at the Nantwich International Cheese Awards as well as the British Cheese Awards last year, The Bath Soft Cheese Co. will be showcasing their finest selection at a royal occasion to remember.

T: 01225 331601 W: www.parkfarm.co.uk Made on the farm with milk from our organic herd

Cheese Shop at Park Farm to...

Congratulations Kelston - just 2 miles west of Bath on A431

Cheese Wife of Bath Bath Brie

225 331601 -

Victory for all those who serve and eat the traditional Cornish pasty has come at last! The Cornish Pasty Association (CPA) has received Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for its world-famous pasty. This now means that only Cornish pasties made following the traditional recipe in Cornwall can be called ‘Cornish Pasties’.

Susannah Way from Wiltshire who wins a lesson @parkfarm Email:sales on the wheel.co.uk with Village Pottery!

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Beryl Maddison from Bath who wins a pottery www.parkf arm.co.uk session for four at Enigma pottery!

James Howell from Bristol who wins a Bart Spices hamper!

Thom Harris who wins a meal for two at Souk Kitchen!

Tom’s Pies

For more on the Exeter Food Festival, turn to page 16

To celebrate British Pie Week, Tom’s Pies will be revealing a new pie, produced as the official Exeter Food Festival pie, as well as holding taster days at the River Cottage Canteen in Axminster (9 March) and Otterton Mill (12 March).

T: 01395 239000 W: www.toms-pies.co.uk

> flavour news

Think outside the tub…

Mendip Moments ice cream and Amy Hunt, owner and Head Chef of the Oak and Glass restaurant in Weston-superMare, have spent the last few months working hard on a collection of delicious and innovative recipes, suitable for every course including the mains!

We just can’t get enough of the melon, Parma ham and pear chutney with mascarpone, fig and honey ice cream – a tantalising, fresh entrée to any meal!

Remove the outer skin from 1 ripe seasonal melon with a sharp knife. Cut in half, scoop out the seeds and slice into 4 ring shaped pieces. Place each ring on a plate and fill the centre with 4 tbsp of pear, prune and fig chutney. Next carefully place a single scoop of ice cream on ½ a slice of Parma ham and place the other half of the Parma ham on top (4 slices in total) and decorate with a small handful of baby leaves or mixed cress. Finally dress the plate with a light drizzle of balsamic reduction. (Serves 4) www.mendipmoments.co.uk www.oakandglass.co.uk

Great British Food Revival This mon th 10 of the BBC’s best-loved chefs attempt to bring our traditional produce back from the brink.

Catch James Martin showing his support for heritage apples, Michel Roux Jr. looking at the revival of bread as well as The Hairy Bikers, Gregg Wallace, Angela Hartnett, Ainsley Harriot and many more.

The five-part series begins on BBC2, Wednesday 9 March, 8pm.

The Runcible Spoon Four young Bristol cooks and a gardener are about to launch a new co-operative adventure in eating. Located in the former premises of Café Kino on Nine Tree Hill, The Runcible Spoon will create and serve affordable, high-quality modern British food which is healthy and well-balanced in every sense of the word. Running in conjunction with the restaurant, The Fat of the Land is an ongoing permaculture project located nearby. Here co-op members and volunteers aim to cultivate and supply the restaurant with fresh organic produce. www.the-runcible-spoon.com

win a Fussels gift box!

Fussels Fine Foods is giving two lucky flavour reader the chance to WIN a gift box worth £25.

Included is their new garlic infused oil, a bottle of cold pressed extra virgin rapeseed oil, a jar of classic and mint mayonnaise, a quince and cider vinegar dressing as well as a beer and horseradish sauce. To enter, email competitions@ flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

Read more about Fussels on page 19!

W: www.fusselsfinefoods.co.uk

Brighten up her year this Mother’s Day! Does your mother love gardening or simply being outside in stunning surroundings? If so, treat her to RHS gift membership this Mother’s Day. The membership includes visits to gardens bursting with colour, one-to-one gardening advice, discounted tickets to RHS shows as well as a subscription to The Garden, a beautiful monthly magazine.

Just £49

for a year!

Membership also includes unlimited entry to RHS Garden Rosemoor, an enchanting 65acre oasis in rural Devon. It’s a tranquil, truly special place to get gardening inspiration, soak up the surroundings or relax with a cream tea and members can also book to stay at the Holiday Cottages.

Buy RHS gift membership by 3 April and the RHS will treat you to a free gift with every purchase – an RHS gardening apron, worth £11.99!

Perfect for treating yourself or the green-fingered mum in your life.

To buy now, visit rhs.org.uk/join/PGP170 or call 0845 130 4646 quoting PGP170.

Terms & conditions apply, see the website for more details.

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the botanist bristol bar & dining Our beautiful new pub opens on Friday 8th April.

To celebrate we are hosting 3 days of pre opening events: Complimentary Menu Tastings for lunch and dinner on 5th & 6th April and our Opening Night Party on Thursday 7th April.

For your exclusive invitation to one of these lovely events please log on to www.thebotanistbristol.co.uk register your details and we will contact you to make your booking.

the botanist berkeley square, bristol bs8 1hp • tel: 0117 927 7333 • www.thebotanistbristol.co.uk

> flavour fab foodie reads

fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

British Baking Peyton and ByRne Square Peg £16.99

Peyton and Byrne are London’s foremost bakers. Since opening their first shop at Heals, they have been synonymous with exquisite cakes, gorgeously packaged, and this stylish recipe book offers Peyton and Byrne at their best. From fluffy vanilla fairy cakes with chocolate fudge icing which will take you back to your childhood, to indulgent teatime treats like the classic Victoria sponge and treacle tart, British Baking has it all. The British equivalent to the bestselling Hummingbird Cookbook, British Baking is a perfect purchase for foodies and a great gift for wannabe domestic goddesses.

Gordon’s Great Escape South-east Asia Gordon Ramsay Harper Collins £25 3rd March

Following on from Gordon’s Great Escape to India, comes an inspirational take on a region obsessed with food.

Gordon travels through Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia and Thailand talking and cooking with the locals who know the flavours best. Accompanying the Channel 4 series, this book showcases Gordon’s pick of the best dishes he discovered. From soups and starters to curries, stir fries and desserts, there are dishes here that will appeal to everyone, including coconut Thai prawns, Vietnamese sweet and sour pork ribs, Malaysian beef rendang and Khmer monkfish and vegetable curry.

Kitchen Hero Donal Skehan

Masterclass James Martin

In 2007, Donal Skehan started his own blog to record his cooking adventures and share his passion for food. Fresh, young and full of enthusiasm, Donal Skehan is a real cooking talent. His passion for simple, healthy, delicious home cooking caused a huge following in the online world and now, thanks to his new book Kitchen Hero showcasing the best from his blog, the following has increased to the outside world too. Donal’s recipes are wonderfully simple and straightforward, making them perfect for novice chefs and equally appealing to the more practised cook.

Fresh from BBC1’s favourite morning show Saturday Kitchen, James Martin delivers a delicious collection of recipes ready to entertain with or enjoy everyday. From the ultimate beef burger, perfect pies and foolproof risottos to indulgent desserts, James Martin guides you through the recipes that everyone should know, or wants to know how to cook. If you have ever wanted to master the classics such as cheese soufflé, beef bourguignon or a traditional bakewell tart then this book is ideal. James also puts his own twist on international dishes. You’ll also find manageable step-by-step guides to essential kitchen skills, such as how to fillet a fish and the best way to poach an egg.

Harper Collins £20 31 March

Harper Collins £20 31 March

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> flavour in season

>Parsley In my humble opinion parsley is the king of herbs. There are very few recipes where a sprinkling of roughly chopped parsley doesn’t add amazing colour and incredible flavour. Whether it’s loaded into a lush salad, bundled into a bouquet garni or just stirred into a stroganoff there are very few dishes parsley doesn’t bring alive. It’s one of those herbs you really need a constant supply of, so if you don’t have a window box it will keep well plunged into a glass of water kept in the fridge. Use the leaves for lighter, more delicate dishes but don’t discard the stems as they have bags of flavour when used properly.

Pan Roasted Hake with Gremolata Serves 4 Into a food processor, add the zest and juice of 1 lemon, 2 cloves of garlic (germ removed), small bunch parsley, 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper.

Pulse on a high speed until all of the ingredients have been combined. Check the seasoning and adjust if required. Keep chilled until needed.

Pan-fry the hake and just before serving add a generous amount of gremolata on top of the fish. Serve with buttery new potatoes and a mixed leaf salad.

At their best > Blood orange The blood orange is a variation of the everyday orange but with a dark red tinge on both the skin and in the flesh. They are mostly grown in the Mediterranean region but are more of a late winter fruit. In terms of taste the blood orange is slightly more tarte than its fellow orange. Simply substitute them into recipes instead of a normal orange to make deeper and darker puddings, sauces and marmalades.

Enjoy them while you can as they are usually only around for a month or two at this time of year.

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Blood Orange and Star Anise Crème brûlée Serves 4 Pre-heat the oven to 160°C and in a medium sized saucepan, heat and bring to the boil 650ml double cream, 350ml whole milk, seeds of 1 vanilla pod, 3 star anise and the zest of 3 blood oranges. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk together 12 free range egg yolks, 150g castor sugar and the juice of 3 blood oranges. Pour half the cream mixture on top of the eggs, mix and return to the pan, strain trough a fine sieve and pour into ramekins. Cook in a water bath in the oven for 40-60 minutes until set. Allow to cool, caramelise the tops and serve with vanilla shortbread.

> flavour in season

>Radishes One of the earliest signs of life in the veggie patch. Radishes tend to pop out of the soil fairly soon after planting. As part of the mustard family these small bulbs can pack a real peppery punch which are a great addition sure to spice up any salad. If you have deciced not to grow them look for plump, firm bulbs that are bright in colour and unblemished, never wilted. They will store in a fridge for a few days but trim the leaves beforehand and plunge them into icy water before serving to reinvigorate them. My favourite way to eat them is very thinly sliced and served with lots of coriander as a garnish to a simple stir fry.

Radish salad Serves 4 Finely slice 800g of radish, 1 Granny Smith apple and 2 cornichons, then finely dice 1 shallot. In a bowl, mix together 2 tbsp crème fraîche, 1 tsp Dijon mustard, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, 50ml sunflower oil, chopped chervil and mint. Add everything together, season to taste with salt and pepper then serve immediately. Perfect with smoked salmon or roasted chicken.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.

Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Peter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right now >Spring onions Spring onions, scallions or salad onions are simply young, white onion plants picked early before they develop into bigger bulbs. They are in season from early spring through the summer when the weather is milder. The smaller and thinner plants are usually the youngest and most tender so try and pick these although as most are fairly small there isn’t a huge amount of difference. Spring onions are used through the world and are particularly popular in eastern recipes. I love using them in a mustardy potato salad or, when feeling the cold, in a spicy Asian noodle broth. When preparing there shouldn’t be too much wastage, just trim off the roots and about 1 cm from the top and the rest of the stem is good to use. When left whole spring onions will keep well for a few days in the fridge.

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk

Beef, Spring Onion and Cashew Stir Fry Serves 4 Cook 200g of vermicelli noodles in boiling salted water, strain and refresh noodles under cold water. Mix together 400g sliced lean beef, 20ml sesame oil, 2 tbsp soya sauce, 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar, 2 tbsp Chinese five spice, 2 cloves chopped garlic, 1 finely sliced chilli and 20g toasted sesame seeds.

Leave to marinade for at least 10 minutes. Heat a wok, when the pan starts smoking add the beef mixture and cook on high heat keeping the wok moving, add 8 chopped spring onions and the vermicelli noodles and finish with a handful of toasted cashew nuts and half a bunch of fresh coriander.

With two AA rosettes, The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modern British cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk 9

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> flavour michel roux

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> flavour michel roux

michel roux Having just returned from Bangkok, flavour Editor Holly AureliusHaddock catches up with Michel Roux Senior to talk about food of the past, food of the future and his beloved nephew…

I travel extensively all over the world and cook in around 12 different countries.

One of my most interesting meals over the last six months was in Bangkok. It was by an Australian chef called David Thompson cooking Thai food in Nahm at The Metropolitan Hotel. His cooking is typically Thai but he pushes the spices a little further than normal. I love his food, it’s very creative.

I don’t wish to appear blasé but at 70 years old, it’s very hard for me to get the shock of my life anymore. But I have to say I love Thai food. There’s something about the delicacy of it; it’s so gentle. They use spices in a very nice way – it’s light and you don’t put on weight. There are a lot of fresh herbs, a little spice and generally good produce.

Normandy was my mother’s home and I loved that type of food. Our food is more Lyonnais because I was born in Charolles.

Mother cooked at home and cooked a lot of food from Normandy. One of my favourite dishes is the blancette de veau which is a lovely veal stew that mother used to cook for us. We used to have tripe too, not for everyone but we enjoyed it and we didn’t know any different!

Mimi [Michel Roux Junior] is a wonderful young man who has priorities exactly right; first and foremost you must be recognised by your peers as a chef before you even consider television.

For young chefs who really want to get to the top it’s so important to travel. It’s like singing, painting, acting – there are so many people in the world practicing an art of some kind that you can’t just be complacent and look at how it’s done in your country. When you’ve got a strong culinary heritage like the French there’s a danger of becoming locked in, but that’s

only if you don’t get out of your normal environment.

My brother Albert and myself have trained over 800 chefs in the UK over the last 35 years and our sons are now doing the same. Alain has been at Le Gavroche for nine years upholding the three stars – he has 24 chefs and half of them are British. We’ve haven’t trained them all but at least 50 per cent of the top chefs in the UK, what I would call the backbone of the restaurant business, come from our stable. I’m not surprised that Michelin are awarding more stars, British chefs are now far more serious in their approach and are bringing their own stamp to the nation’s food.

I’m very proud of my nephew Michel Roux Junior. As his uncle and godfather I helped him to find his first job as a pastry chef in Paris with some of my colleagues and he blossomed from there. He is just over 50 and hasn’t started television too early.

Mimi is a wonderful young man who has priorities exactly right; first and foremost you must be recognised by your peers as a chef before you even consider television.

The service industry in the UK has a long way to come and it’s because British people don’t generally want to serve. The best service is by far the Italians followed by the French. The British mentality to service needs to change before we’ll see them come up to the same kind of standards, and hopefully Michel’s programme Service has played a part in that. ■

French Country Cooking by the Roux brothers is published this month and is available in all good book shops.

Published by Quadrille, RRP £25 13

> flavour casanis

casanis Chef Laurent Couvreur has major credentials under his belt – studying and working with world-renowned Chef Jacques Chibois at the famous Le Royal Gray Restaurant in Cannes.

After several years gaining experience at Michelin-starred eateries along the Côte d’Azure, he moved to the USA, where he was well reviewed as Head Chef at Chez Jacqueline in New York and featured on US cable TV’s The Food Channel.

Returning to Europe as head chef at the Ritz Club in London, Laurent eventually settled in Bath with his family, where he has fulfilled his dream of owning his own restaurant and recreating dishes from his childhood and early experiences in the South of France.

Pan fried Cornish scallops and chicken and crayfish ballotine with white wine velouté sauce We serve this hot starter with a micro salad and lemon dressing.

Ingredients For the pan fried scallops: 3 Cornish scallops, 2 tbsp olive oil, pinch of salt and pepper, lemon juice For the ballotine mousse stuffing: 1 skinless chicken breast, 100ml double cream, 1 egg white, 50g crayfish meat, 1 tbsp freshly chopped tarragon, pinch of salt and pepper, pinch of cayenne to taste For the chicken ballotine: 1 flattened skinless chicken breast, pinch of salt and pepper, cling film to roll the ballotine For the velouté sauce: 200ml vegetable stock, 100ml fish stock, 100ml double cream, 1 shallot, 1 leek, 50cl white wine, 1 tbsp olive oil, pinch of salt and pepper, bouquet garni

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Method 1 Make the mousse stuffing for the ballotine. Dice the chicken breast and blend for 20 seconds, then add the egg white, double cream, crayfish, tarragon and seasoning and blend for a further 20 seconds. Chill in the fridge.

2 Make the sauce. Chop the shallots and leek, add the olive oil to a frying pan and sweat for a few minutes. Add the wine and reduce by half then add the chicken and fish stock and reduce by half again. Finally add the double cream and seasoning and simmer for 10-15 minutes.

3 Make the ballotine. Flatten the chicken breast between 2 pieces of cling film then season. Place 1 tbsp of mousse in the centre of the chicken breast and roll it using the bottom piece of cling film.

Tie either end like a Christmas cracker and poach in simmering water for 8-10 minutes, then refresh in cold water.

4 Pan fry the scallops in olive oil for about 1 minute each side and season. Slice the ballotine into 3 pieces and arrange on a plate. Add a scallop on top of each slice and drizzle a little of the hot sauce around.

Casanis 4 Saville Row Bath BA1 2QP 01225 780055 www.casanis.co.uk

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Whether you are looking for a new twist for your canapés or looking to elevate your risotto or pasta dishes visit www.Gourmelli.co.uk for that added inspiration.

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Olive Oil & Truffle – Use the fresh scent of vegetables, almonds and fruit to enhance any warm dish. Perfect for pasta, salads & meat fillets – Adding this subtle taste of truffle will make your dishes unforgettable.

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> flavour exeter festival of food & drink

exeter

a royal fare One of the South West’s best-loved food festivals returns to Exeter this year and with a royal wedding on the horizon, there’s even more reason to make it the best to date...

The Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink is held each year in the beautiful landscaped grounds surrounding Exeter Castle. Taking place during the early May Bank Holiday weekend between 29 April and 1 May, the festival offers visitors the chance to indulge in the region’s finest food and drink, see celebrity chefs work their magic and enjoy dedicated activities for families.

culinary heroes, picking up great tips in the process. With a host of top chefs taking part, some familiar faces will be clattering their pans including Lesley Waters, Mark Hix, Chris and James Tanner, Peter Gorton and Masterchef winner James Nathan.

If that isn’t enough for you then the festival ‘Food is Fun’

Co-founded by two star Michelin chef Michael Caines, and now in its eighth year, the festival offers something for everyone – from dedicated foodies to families. There will also be two Festival After Dark events held in Exeter Castle’s courtyard featuring live music from local bands, more delicious regional food, real ales and cider. With day one coinciding with the Royal Wedding, the festival will be a perfect place to enjoy the big day with food and drink fit for a king and a chance to celebrate in style at the Festival After Dark wedding party.

Witness the royal events unfolding on the giant 25 square metre screen and create your own picnic from the vast array of regional produce on sale. The festival’s chairman, Derek Phillips says: “The festival coinciding with the Royal Wedding really is a once in a lifetime opportunity and we fully intend to make it a huge celebration. We think the screen at the festival will be the biggest screen showing the event in Exeter.”

There will also be a chance to dress up in royal-themed fancy dress with a prize for the best dressed visitor awarded by the Lord Mayor of Exeter. You can also get top tips from respected wine writer Suzy Atkins and raise a toast to the happy couple with some of the West Country’s best sparkling wines.

The Festival Cookery Theatre also remains one of the greatest attractions where food fans get to rub shoulders with their 16

teepees in association with Darts Farm will be hosting an exciting line up of chefs, artisan food producers, culinary experts, workshops and hands on activities for all the family.

Two Festival After Dark events on Friday and Saturday nights offer a perfect blend of live music from local bands, delicious regional food and real ales alongside some cutting-edge cooking demos. A perfect way to end a special day.

For more information and to book tickets visit www.exeterfoodanddrinkfestival. co.uk or call 01392 667080

A slice of the south west Teaming up with local pie-makers Tom’s Pies, and in conjunction with Dartmoor Farmers Association, the festival has announced its Official 2011 Festival Pie of steak, parsnip and horseradish. In keeping with the regional ethos of the festival, the pie has been created using local produce and is designed to give a true taste of the region. Available at the festival, while stocks last.

> flavour exeter festival of food & drink

Win! A foodie break to Exeter with the Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink and the Rougemont Hotel To celebrate the Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink (29 April – 1 May), we’ve teamed up with the organisers and the Rougemont Hotel in Exeter to offer one lucky reader and a friend the chance to enjoy a fabulous two-night break at the festival. Located in the heart of Exeter, the four star hotel is just a stone’s throw from Northernhay Gardens and Exeter Castle, where the food festival is held.

The prize includes a two-night stay at the hotel on Friday 29 and Saturday 30 April and dinner on one evening. The Rougemont Hotel is an elegant Victorian building situated near Exeter Central railway station and is the ideal base from which to explore this historic city.

What’s more, courtesy of First Great Western, the prize includes a pair of first

class train tickets which may be used to travel to the festival. To top it all off, the lucky winner will also be able to tuck into some delicious regional produce with a gorgeous Darts Farm hamper. For more information on Darts Farm visit www.dartsfarm.co.uk.

For your chance to win, simply answer the following question: Which Exeter-based Michelin starred chef co-founded the Exeter Festival of South West Food and Drink?

To enter, simply email competitions@ flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Closing date 31 March 2011.

* Terms and conditions. The prize includes a two-night stay for two people in a double or twin room. The hotel stay is for 29 and 30 April 2011 but can be taken, strictly subject to availability, by 30 June 2011. The prize includes dinner on one night for two people (excluding drinks). The prize includes two weekend passes to the Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink. The train tickets are only valid on the First Great Western network. Please note that although the tickets are valid across the First Great Western network, not all trains convey first class carriages. Train tickets are not valid to travel on the ‘Night Riviera’ sleeping car service. Train tickets are valid throughout 2011. There is no cash alternative.

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> flavour exeter festival of food & drink

exeter At the show…

cotleigh brewery Taking its name from its first home, the Cotleigh Farmhouse near Tiverton, Cotleigh Brewery moved to the famous Somerset brewing town of Wiveliscombe in 1980 and has now been producing awardwinning beers in the South West for three decades.

Having trained in Switzerland, brewery owner Fredrik Domellof spent a large part of his career as a hotelier and restaurateur. Combining a superlative palate with a love of his country’s favourite tipple, Fredrik’s decision to buy the brewery and take it forward with his business partner Stephen Heptinstall was ‘HOOFING’ an easy one: “In Sweden everyone drinks beer including women, it’s an integral part of the cuisine and is increasingly becoming so in the UK. If I can play a part in that change, all Alc 4.0% Vol the better.”

Supporting local initiatives is considered a big part of the brewery’s agenda: “People need to know and love your beer locally before you can even think about anything else,” Fredrik continues.

As such, Cotleigh works closely with The

Hawk and Owl Trust, the inspiration behind the hugely popular ‘Beers of Prey’ range, which has picked up a string of awards for both flavour and branding.

Their most recent project promises to give 40 Commando Royal Marines based at Norton Manor in Taunton a boost. ‘Commando Hoofing’ is a light golden beer sold in bottles and casks to celebrate the commandos’ return from operational deployment in Afghanistan. Donations from the sale of bottled and cask beer will be given to the 40 Commando Royal Marines Welfare fund for the rehabilitation of Marines and their families. New initatives are being extended further afield to the Royal Marines Charitable trust Fund A number of Royal Marines who tasted the beer commented “It’s a great drink that has an explosion of flavours from hops to fresh fruit, far more palatable than ones we’re used to!” It was in fact their glowing feedback that spawned the beer’s name

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‘hoofing’ – a Royal Marines term used to describe something fantastic.

Thanks to the overwhelming response to the new beer, Cotleigh are sponsoring Michael Caines MBE in association with Commando Hoofing to promote and raise awareness of the Royal Marines and the excellent combination of beer with food.

Michael said: “It’s fantastic for a South West Brewery to give support to the Royal Marines and I look forward to a long and continued relationship with them.”

T: 01984 624086 W: www.cotleighbrewery.com

> flavour exeter festival of food & drink

exeter

fussels fine foods Sown, grown and cold-pressed in North Somerset, the rapeseed oil from Fussels Fine Foods is extremely versatile. Whether frying, marinating, roasting, baking or creating a dressing, Fussel’s oil will enhance the flavour of all your ingredients.

The golden oil contains omegas 3, 6 and 9, essential cholesterol-reducing fatty acids. It boasts less saturated fat than olive oil, higher levels of poly and mono-unsaturated fats and is a natural source of vitamin E. Featuring classic ingredients, the Fussels Fine Foods range now includes Somerset chilli oil; FGS sauce featuring Somerset beer and horseradish; rapeseed oil infused with the very essence of garlic; classic and mint rapeseed mayonnaises; classic English herb dressing, quince and cider vinegar dressing - plus Fussels’ homegrown Sunflower Oil. W: www.fusselsfinefoods.co.uk

kenniford farm Kenniford farm shop, kitchen and cafe serve award-winning pork and bacon products.

Visit the farm shop, have a takeaway from the catering trailer or enjoy one of the popular hog roasts. Visit Kenniford at the Exeter Food Festival in the Castle area to pick up hog roast baps, sausages and bacon.

T: 01392 875938 W: www.kennifordfarm.com

Special Offer Spend £20 in the Farm Shop and receive a £5 Kenniford Farm Shop & Cafe voucher. Quote KENFM. (Offer Valid until 31st July 11)

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Better by Hand Tom's Pies are purveyors of the finest handmade gourmet pies. Created from only the best ingredients, sourced locally, our mouth-watering fillings are made by top chefs and wrapped in our unique and delicious short-crust pastry.

Call: 01395 239 000 info@toms-pies.co.uk www.toms-pies.co.uk

We’ve recently been shortlisted for small business of the year in the Express & Echo Business Awards 2011, and we are finalists in the Weddings Matter Westcountry Wedding awards 2011 for the third year running.

> flavour exeter festival of food & drink

exeter

bell & loxton’s rapeseed oil carrot cake with vanilla cream cheese topping Ingredients For the cake: 275ml Bell and Loxton cold pressed rapeseed oil 225g caster sugar 3 medium eggs 170g plain flour ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp cinnamon (powdered) ½ tsp vanilla essence 250g grated raw carrot

Bell and Loxton’s cold pressed rapeseed oil is grown, pressed and bottled on a family run farm in South Devon. A delicious, healthy alternative to other culinary oils, their cold pressed rapeseed oil is naturally rich in omega 3, 6 and 9 and has less than half the saturated fat of olive oil. It’s grown and bottled in the heart of Devon and has far fewer food miles than its Mediterranean counterparts. The company launched in September 2010 and is already established in a number of prestigious farm shops and delicatessens.

and is also trans-fat and GM free.

A healthy, home-grown alternative to olive oil, cold pressed rapeseed oil is a completely natural product with many advantages including having the lowest saturated fat content of any culinary oil.

In fact, it has 54% less saturated fat than olive oil and 45% less than sunflower oil.

It contains ten times more omega 3 than other oils, it is a good source of Vitamin E with no artificial preservatives or colours

Bell & Loxton Upton Barton South Milton Kingsbridge South Devon TQ7 3JF

Use it for drizzling over your favourite dishes or dressing salads as well as a delicious addition to dips. With its high burn temperature it is also perfect for roasting and frying your favourite Sunday roast. It isn’t just in savoury dishes that this oil can be used, turn your hand to this delicious carrot cake recipe and try for yourself!

01548 562023 www.bellandloxton.co.uk

For the topping: 170g cream cheese 170g softened butter 225g icing sugar ½ tsp vanilla essence Method 1 Place the rapeseed oil and sugar in a bowl and mix well, add the eggs one by one and beat well as you add each egg.

2 Sieve all the dry ingredients and mix well then add in the grated carrot and combine well.

3 Place into a cake tin and bake for 40 minutes at 180°C. Once baked, if you place a skewer into the centre of the cake it will come out clean. Allow to cool and remove from tin.

4 For the topping beat all the ingredients together and spread over the cake with a fork. Sprinkle with a little grated orange zest and serve. Perfect with a creamy cappuccino.

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> flavour gidleigh park

exeter

gidleigh park Following a string of awards, including first place in ‘Britain’s Top 100 Restaurants’ by The Sunday Times, this month Katie Agnew discovers that Gidleigh Park captivates even the most sullen of visitors…

As my friend Emma and I rushed down the M5 on our way from Bath to Gidleigh Park in Chagford, Devon, our conversation revolved around how miserable we were.

It was raining, it was half term, the tumble dryer had broken, and the men in our lives were not doing as they were told. And then we saw Gidleigh Park - a glorious, awardwinning, Tudor style country house hotel, on the edge of Dartmoor National Park and our mood immediately lightened. It’s the kind of building that makes you wish you’d been born in a different age, to a different family.

We were met in the car park and ushered into the grand, sumptuous, but reassuringly comfortable, hotel. Real fires roared, comfy chairs beckoned, impeccably dressed staff greeted us warmly and two glasses of delicious, chilled champagne were poured as we collapsed onto a sofa in the library and took in the breathtaking views of the 107 acres of mature grounds and woodland that surround the hotel.

The atmosphere is grown-up and sophisticated but soothingly relaxed.

Although children are more than welcome at the hotel, having seen the best room in the house however - complete with sauna, steam room and a bath the size of an Olympic swimming pool - my gut reaction would be to visit Gidleigh Park without the kids. It really is the perfect romantic retreat.

Gidleigh Park Chagford Devon TQ13 8HH 01647 432367 www.gidleigh.com 22

And then there’s the food. I can safely say that the meal I had at Gidleigh Park was the most divine culinary experience of my life. Which is hardly surprising since the menu is created by two Michelin star chef Michael Caines using only the finest local ingredients. Our foodie heaven began in the library with a couple of exquisite

appetisers - one quail, one salmon - to help the bubbly go down. Bliss. We were then shown to one of the grand dining rooms and a knowledgeable female sommelier who helped us choose wine to complement our meals. Gidleigh Park has one of the finest wine lists in the UK and it’s well worth leaving your choice up to the hotel’s experts.

By halfway through my starter of boudin of Waddeton pheasant with cous cous, fois gras and spiced bouillon, I was announcing to Emma that I now felt not miserable, but happy. She tucked into her goats’ cheese terrine with jasmine raisins and candied walnuts and agreed with gusto. Two mouthfuls into my main course of Cornish pollock with cauliflower, lemon thyme and cumin velouté and I was feeling completely ecstatic.

Emma’s loin of local pork with butternut squash, sage and smoked paprika was obviously having a similar effect.

And then came the puddings. No, not puddings, pudding art! As my caramel and cardamom parfait with milk chocolate mousse, nougatine and cardamom foam melted into my palate I let out an audible sigh. ‘Who needs men anyway?’ asked Emma, as she fell in love with her cinnamon poached pear with caramelised pear fritter, butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream.

After coffee and petits fours back in the library, the journey home was a much more blissed-out affair. Gidleigh Park had cured our woes and all was right with the world. I went to sleep that night with a smile on my face, a warm glow in my belly, and a headful of dreams about being born with a silver spoon and a caramel and cardamom parfait in my mouth. ■

> flavour xxxxxxx

I went to sleep that night with a smile on my face, a warm glow in my belly, and a headful of dreams about being born with a silver spoon and a caramel and cardamom parfait in my mouth

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> flavour mitch tonks

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

Here’s the ca ch With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

This month:

mackerel

Mackerel is the one fish that seems to tick all the boxes. It’s sustainable, you can buy it from the UK, it’s good for your health, okay on the budget and gives a cracking taste. Locally caught in abundance in UK waters, its price has remained consistently low, plentiful, cheap and fabulous to eat – surely too good to be true? The health benefits of omega 3s are well documented; our diet over the years has changed and we need to up the intake of the good fats out there in foods like olive oil, avocados and, of course oily fish. It’s good brain food, skin food, gives you shiny hair and is good for the heart. It’s a wonder it’s not compulsory to eat it! Some people are less keen on the stronger flavour but it is worth trying sousing mackerel in a mixture of sugar, vinegar and spices and gently poaching it for a moist result packed with delicious tastes.

Works well with...

Mackerel soused in aromatic spices and a sweet and sour mix of vinegar and sugar is delicious, grilled and served with nothing but a squeeze of lemon, mackerel used as an alternative to tuna in a Niçoise or married with the strong flavours of red onion and horseradish in a simple crisp salad.

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Supermarket shelves are full of smoked mackerel rather than fresh fish, mainly because fresh mackerel should be eaten as soon as it is caught – this is when those healthy oils are at their best levels.

A fishmonger will get supplies in each day and because they are transported on ice and kept in cooler conditions than domestic fridges, you can enjoy fresh mackerel without having to live by the sea or owning a boat – although that is good too!

It is very simple to prepare freshly caught mackerel, it is not scaly like sea bass or salmon so you just need to take a knife and split down from head to tail and remove the innards, wash in a bit of sea water, add some seasoning and chuck on the barbeque for a few minutes each side.

The beautiful, smooth petroly blue green iridescent skin crisps up and works so well with the juicy, moist chunks of fish.

> flavour mitch tonks

Mackerel Tagine Mix 1 tbsp ground allspice, 1 tbsp ground coriander, 2 tbsp paprika, 1 tbsp turmeric, 2 tsp ground cassia, 1 tsp ground cardamom and 1 tsp chilli flakes together and store in an airtight jar.

Heat 2-3 tbsp of olive oil in a large frying pan, add 2.5cm of freshly chopped root ginger, 1/2 a chopped red pepper, 4 cherry tomatoes, 2 cloves of garlic and 1 chopped onion. Fry gently for 4-5 minutes, then add

1 tsp of your spice mix. Add 1 mackerel (approximately 350g, gutted and chopped into 5cm chunks or leave whole), cover with water and leave to simmer for 7-8 minutes (for mackerel chunks) and 12 minutes (for a whole fish).

Before serving, season with plenty of salt, then add finely chopped fresh coriander, 40 black olives and a squeeze of lemon to taste.

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> flavour the muset by ronnie

themu set by ronnie When Ron Faulkner left the capital to open his eponymous restaurant in Thornbury four years ago, a sleepy market town was afforded a glimpse of superior London dining for the very first time. This month flavour Editor Holly AureliusHaddock checks out his latest venture...

Thanks to an apprenticeship under big names such as Ed Baines and Anton Mosimann, Ron Faulkner’s razor-sharp eye for detail and tireless efforts in the kitchen saw Ronnie’s in Thornbury awarded Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year within 12 months of opening, closely followed by an AA award for their notable wine list and a BBC Olive award for working beyond customers’ expectations. Never a man to stand still for too long however, Ron was soon on the lookout for a second venue and new challenge.

Following its slow and protracted demise last year, The Muset in Clifton presented itself as the ideal opportunity to try something different. “The menu in Thornbury is very classical, much of it comfort food where the innovation comes in the clever crafting of the dish,” he explains. “In the relatively more cosmopolitan setting of Clifton I want modern, fresh flavours and cutting-edge cuisine.”

If the colour and taste explosion of the beetroot tortellini and horseradish labne is anything to go by, diners will find wiping the slates clean no hardship. Using the very best produce he can lay his hands on, Ron has always turned out superb meat dishes too, as exemplified by The Muset’s Badminton Estate venison with prune and chocolate.

26

> flavour the muset by ronnie

I’ve always cooked for my customers first and foremost. Not for guides, not for accolades and never for ego. Accolades are nice but for me they come as a by-product and not a pre-requisite.

With its clean lines and aesthetic tableware, the style of food is echoed by the restaurant’s chic minimalist décor, punctuated by vibrant prints from local artist Karen Baker. Placing equal emphasis on form and content, Ron’s core team are certainly no strangers to a dynamic working environment either.

Front-of-house is headed up by the flamboyant Biagio Iacono, whose CV includes Hotel du Vin, Bristol Marriott Royal and Chewton Glen in Hampshire.

Behind the scenes is head chef David Underwood who cut his teeth working under Michelin star chef Anthony Demetre, owner of prestigious Soho and Mayfair restaurants Arbutus and Wild Honey. “It’s exciting for me to be working with such a young talent,” Ron enthuses. “David’s got a fantastic palate and is very hard working.

All I need to do now is mould him for Bristol diners.”

The pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the chef’s table, an intimate booth for up to eight people with a live camera feed to the kitchen. In keeping with the Muset’s former Bring Your Own policy, this is the only table in the house where people are encouraged to bring a good bottle of wine from home to savour with good food.

Keeping one eye on the restaurant’s nerve centre, parties can enjoy a five-course tasting menu for £45 a head.

As Bristol slowly creeps onto Michelin’s radar, the burning question is whether Ron is reaching for the stars. “I’ve always cooked for my customers first and foremost. Not for guides, not for accolades and never for ego. Accolades are nice but for me they come as a by-product and not a pre-requisite.” Under his well-seasoned guidance nonetheless, The Muset promises to enrich the Bristol dining scene and it heralds the start of an exciting new chapter for a consummate professional… ■

The Muset by Ronnie 12-16 Clifton Road Clifton Bristol BS8 1AF 01179 737248 www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk 27

THE THE

GREEN GPA R EREKN PA R K TAV E R N TAV E R N FO O D ß M U S I C DRINK FO O D ß M U S I C DRINK

PIE & PINT £9.50 PIE & PINT £9.50 To celebrate National Pie Week startingNational 1st March, To celebrate Pie pie with enjoy Pieminster Week astarting 1st March, mash, and pint real pieofwith enjoy agravy Pieminster ale or cask mash, gravycider and for pintjust of real £9.50! ale or cask cider for just £9.50!

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01225 400050, 45 Lower Bristol Road, Bath, BA2 3BD, www.greenparktavern.com 01225 400050, 45 Lower Bristol Road, Bath, BA2 3BD, www.greenparktavern.com

> flavour upper crust

upper crust Celebrate British Pie Week (7-13 March) by cooking up a classic from the South West’s best-loved purveyors of pie...

tristan’s Steak and Ale Pie Serves 6 Ingredients 500g puff pastry 500g good quality stewing steak 50g butter 6 medium shallots, sliced 3 cloves crushed garlic 1 tbsp brown muscavado sugar 500ml real ale (For our moo pie we use Bristol Beer Factory’s darkest ale, as it’s a) excellent and b) local, so why not use your favourite local brew?)

1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 medium carrots, cubed 1 sprig rosemary 2 sprigs thyme 1 bay leaf Juice of ½ lemon 1 heaped tablespoon plain flour 1 teaspoon sea salt Pepper to taste For the casserole 1 If using the oven to cook your stew, preheat it to 180ºC. 2 Put a casserole pan on a medium heat.

3 Put all the vegetables, crushed garlic, bay leaves and herbs into the pan with the butter and fry gently for 10 minutes.

4 Add your meat and flour, then pour in the Ale, add the tomato puree, sugar and Worcestershire sauce.

5 Give it a good stir, then season with a teaspoon of sea salt (less if using table salt) and a sprinkling of pepper.

6 Bring to the boil, put the lid on and either simmer slowly on your hob or cook in an oven for 2 hours.

7 Remove the lid for the final half hour of simmering or cooking.

8 When done, add the lemon juice to freshen the sauce and season to taste.

9 Leave to cool, preferably overnight so that all the lovely flavours can get to know one another.

10 Roll out the pastry on a floury surface until it’s just under 1cm thick and lay it over the top of the pie.

11 Trim the pastry to the edges and crimp the pastry firmly against the dish. Brush the top of the pie with a whisked egg glaze and place into the oven.

12 Place into an oven and bake until mix is hot and your crust is golden brown.

I didn’t put a steak and ale pie onto the Pieminister menu for two or three years because in all my wisdom I thought that the British public wanted something ‘different’.

How wrong! This is very like our Moo pie – an excellent slow-cooked beef casserole in lovely buttery pastry.

Tristan Hogg, Pieminster co-founder

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~ THE HOLCOMBE INN ~

> flavour lye cross farm

lye cross farm There’s more to Lye Cross Farm shop than meets the eye.

Owned by the Alvis family, Lye Cross Farm has been making exceptional farmhouse cheddar for over 50 years and is one of the West Country’s finest cheese makers.

Three generations of the Alvis family have been making the highest quality Cheddar cheese since 1952. The farm still use traditional methods and skills when producing their cheeses, such as the age-old ‘Cheddaring’ process of turning and stacking the curd by hand–a method which is used alongside new technology.

The cheese is matured under carefully controlled conditions for up to 18 months.

When it’s time to select the cheese, the grader decides which cheeses are the best eaten young and which should be left to mature so as to develop the special features and flavours associated with West Country Farmhouse Cheese.

The farm shop boasts a superb choice of carefully sourced fruit and vegetables, a deli counter stocked with specialty cheeses, olives, pâtés, homemade scotch eggs and much more. The butchery offers quality beef and pork reared by the Alvis family themselves, lamb, free-range organic chickens plus seasonal game.

Fresh milk arrives daily along with a great

dairy range. The poultry selection is also extensive, ranging from chicken, goose and duck eggs from neighbouring farms.

The local baker ensures delicious fresh bread, pastries and cakes are also on the menu. Fresh filled rolls made to order always prove popular as a meal on the run as do the scones which are superb with Cheddar strawberries in the summer months.

Customers can now enjoy a lunchtime meal or coffee and cake in The Food Hut Café – a charming, converted old bus.

Produce from the shop is used to create the menu with something for everyone to enjoy.

With a recent nationwide campaign commending Lye Cross Farm in the ‘Best Local Shop’ category, the Alvis family’s efforts to bring the best local produce to the surrounding community has been given the recognition it deserves. ■

Lye Cross Farm Redhill North Somerset BS40 5RH 01934 864613 www.lyecrossfarm.co.uk

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> flavour floral bouquets

f loral bouquets...

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

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> flavour floral bouquets

All I can think about at the moment is the lengthening evenings – driving home from work in sunshine rather than pitch black – and the feeling of having more time in my day than in the middle of winter. Time to see friends, hang out in the garden, enjoy a glass of wine or two with an ‘alfresco’ dinner. Heaven.

We’re a long way away from those balmy evenings and although our winter coats might be stored away, the jackets and umbrellas are still within grabbing distance. But the promise of things to come is in the air and for that reason, this month we move away from my hoard of powerful, tannic reds and blow the dust off the bottles of stunning, aromatic whites. Perfect for this season as winter melts away into spring, they are bursting with flavour and character, yet elegant enough not to overwhelm. Roll on spring and summer I say, and enjoy every sip.

Sauvignon Blanc has become one of the world’s most popular grapes over recent years, and although it’s a great food match for many different dishes, it’s particularly good with a classic spring food – asparagus. You can try it at home any time as a great little starter, grilling and then drizzling with olive oil and some hollandaise. We’ll see a lot more asparagus coming onto our menus later in the spring, so in the meantime I’ll suggest another classic match. Head down to Fishy Fishy Brasserie in Brighton – so good they named it twice – who pride themselves on providing good value for money with a sustainable fishing ethos.

Drylands Sauvignon Blanc is a fantastic example of a New Zealand Sauvignon and works with almost anything on the menu. Try the spicy channel monkfish with a red onion and potato rösti. www.fishyfishy.co.uk

In the excitement created by the wave of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc cascading across the nation, it’s easy to forget its more spiritual roots. Sancerre is true, classic Sauvignon – not just for French wine purists – made in a slightly more subtle style in the Loire Valley. Sancerre has a reputation for being good quality – great – but also being super premium which brings the association of being expensive. That’s not always true, and you definitely don’t need fine dining to find a great food match. At The Mission Café Bar and Bistro in Plymouth I was delighted to find an asparagus, Parma ham and mozzarella salad to start – a great pairing for the Mellot La Gravelilere Sancerre.

Follow with the seafood linguini. www.themissionplymouth.com Now onto a more controversial wine. In the past Riesling has been overshadowed by a truly dreadful hangover from decades of cheap German wine such as Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun and Black Tower. It’s a fantastically versatile grape however, because it can be made in both a sweet and dry style, and can age for years. I urge you to try the Vidal Riesling from New Zealand, made in an off-dry style with delicious, delicate tropical fruit flavours. This style of wine is lovely with either rich or spicy food – the freshness and slight floral hints cut through perfectly.

I was delighted to discover the beautiful Captain’s Club Hotel in Christchurch who champion Riesling with a paragraph on their list – with some great food beside.

At the Tides Restaurant you can enjoy a bottle of Vidal with panoramic views over the River Stour. Try the scallops with five spiced pork belly, followed by roast Gressingham duck. www.captainsclubhotel.com

In my opinion, Viognier is just as easy to drink and good quality as Riesling, yet even less wellknown. I have started to see more of this grape around but it’s not as regular an appearance as our good friend Sauvignon Blanc. For those of you familiar with the Rhone Valley, you may have heard of Condrieu, Viognier’s most famous example. This is top end stuff, and usually with a price tag to match. For a more accessible option I would go for something from California like Bonterra’s Organic Viognier. Match it with a unique hotel stay at the luxurious, quirky Glencot House near Wookey Hole.

A gem of a hotel with fabulous décor, sit back and relax with your Viognier and don’t even worry about a food match – it’s divine on its own. www.millersuk.com/glencot I can’t write an article about aromatic wines without this last grape. Gewurztraminer is rich, full bodied and medium sweet with apricot, lychee and spice flavours. Not everyone’s cup of tea but – as a lot of restaurateurs have discovered over recent years – it’s the perfect match for spicy food, particularly Thai cuisine. The wine I’m going to recommend here is a slightly crisper, lighter version from renowned Spanish producer Torres. The Vina Esmeralda is blended with Muscat for a delicious, elegant wine. It also represents extremely good value as Gewurztraminer can be an expensive grape. Koh Thai in Fareham offer Vina Esmeralda on their menu as well as several other aromatic whites. You almost can’t go wrong here with food, but a traditional red or green curry is always a winner. www.eatkohthai.com 33

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The Stapleton Arms Buckhorn Weston

You no longer have to stay the night at The Stapleton Arms to enjoy one of our amazing

It doesn’t get better than this. Come along at weekends and experience one of Dorset’s best breakfasts. Choose from a menu including fresh fruit, yoghurt and granola, full

cooked breakfast with village eggs, American pancakes with maple syrup, freshly baked breads and homemade marmalades. Browse the weekend papers and ease yourself into the day with a freshly ground Illy coffee.

March

Available Saturday and Sunday 10am-12noon Children, dogs and muddy boots welcome

The Stapleton Arms, Buckhorn Weston, Dorset SP8 5HS Tel: 01963 370 396 or email: relax@thestapletonarms.com

thestapletonarms.com

breakfasts.

www.

HOTEL, RESTAURANT AND SPA

FORTHCOMING EVENTS NEW WORLD WINE TASTING WITH A LIGHT SUPPER Thursday 24th March £29.50 per person.

SUNDAY JAZZ WITH LUNCH

Sunday 27th March £29.50 per person.

Lower Henlade, Taunton, Somerset TA3 5NB Tel: 01823 442500 Fax: 01823 442900 Email: info@mountsomersethotel.co.uk

www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk

UNVEILING AT THE MOUNT SOMERSET

Facilities will include: • A state of the art hydrotherapy pool • A thermal suite which includes a sauna & steam room • Relaxing foot spas • Experience showers

> flavour dirty girl diary

Dirty Girl diary Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project ‘Dirty Girl Kitchen’. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations that no foodie should be without...

Real Food Festival Tickets are now on sale for this year’s Real Food Festival 5-8 May 2011.

A celebration of extraordinary food and drink that has been sustainably and ethically produced, the Real Food Festival will again be packed with 500 of the finest artisan food producers and so much more. New for 2011, alongside the chef theatre and cookery school, visitors will be able

to get more hands-on experience at butchery and artisan food workshops, pick their own tea in a Cornish botanical garden, keep the kids entertained in the Taste Experience tent, learn more about cheese, wine and chocolate with special talks, demos and tastings.

Advance tickets are just £13.50 www.realfoodfestival.co.uk

The Taste of War The Taste of War is the first book to tell the intertwined stories of some 20 nations battling for food. This is a story of individual governments struggling to feed civilians and troops with limited resources. Britain and Germany introduced rationing; Japan allowed civilians and soldiers to starve, on the grounds that lives were expendable and the fighting spirit should be sustaining enough; meanwhile America began to cultivate its image as a land of plenty by giving each soldier a staggering 4,757 calories a day in rations. It just reiterates how lucky we are to eat the way we do.

Petis Pois Introducing courgette in a cake!

Harry Eastwood, star of Channel 4’s Cook Yourself Thin, is expanding her passion for low-calorie gourmet goods. Harry has teamed up with American entrepreneur Ashley Maddox to launch Petit Pois, a range of mouthwatering cakes made using vegetables instead of butter and some of the sugar, exclusively at Selfridges from 15 March 2011.

Petit Pois cupcakes are a celebration of cake, not sugary icing, using all natural ingredients of the highest quality – free-range eggs, 70% cocoa chocolate, real vanilla bean and unwaxed citrus fruit. Each cake has just the thinnest layer of icing and is topped with a little green pea to indicate that it’s genuinely good for you. www.petitpoiscakes.com

www.amazon.co.uk

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> flavour martin blunos

Onion and fennel bhajis

Homemade heroes Having spent the last few months travelling up and down the country, this month Martin Blunos enjoys attending an event much closer to home…

I’ve been judging the annual Bath Chef v Chef competition at the City of Bath College for a few years now and every year the standard just keeps getting better. The competition includes three categories – up to 16 years of age, under 23s and over 23s.

These young hopefuls are all given a box of goodies plus all the ingredients to make a generic dish (this year crème caramel) a couple of hours to work their magic and then it’s tasting time!

free spirit coming out to play and it’s a sight to behold.

The generic dish is a revelation, how you can end up with so many variations of the same dish using the same ingredients baffles me. You really see a young chef’s

My recipe this month might not be local to Bath, but it’s a little corker that I’m sure would tickle the taste buds of everyone from the Romans through to the present inhabitants of my fair city. I can just imagine the takeaway queues of centurions after a few pints in The Bell on Walcot Street…

The up to 16-year-olds did amazingly well.

The gold medal winner Seb Soare was only 12- years-old and cooked with a maturity beyond his years. The relative naivety of the contestants at this level made the dishes simple and honest without over complication – the perfect backdrop for a French classic.

Ingredients 2 large white onions 1 medium fennel bulb 1 bunch of spring onions 200g chick pea flour 1 tbsp rice flour 1 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp mild red chilli flakes ¼ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp cumin ½ tsp ground coriander ¼ fennel seeds ¼ tsp black onion seeds 100ml cold water Salt Method 1 Place all the dry ingredients into a bowl. Mix in the water to make a smooth batter.

2 Trim the fennel and shred it wafer thin – ideally with a mandolin. Shred the spring onions and add to the mixture.

3 Heat vegetable oil in a wok or deep saucepan to 160°C. 4 Gently drop spoonfuls of the bhaji mix in the oil and cook until golden, turning them from time to time to colour evenly.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

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FRESH

FOR SPRING The Brasserie, our contemporary dining experience. Using locally sourced fresh ingredients, our executive chef Hywel Jones has created an innovative 2 course set menu for ÂŁ16. Available Monday to Friday, 12 to 3pm. For reservations please call 01225 740575.

Lucknam Park, Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777 reservations@lucknampark.co.uk www.lucknampark.co.uk

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� With so much to think about when planning the perfect day, we look to the experts so you can savour every moment without an ounce of stress…

finer taste flavour’s annual guide to weddings

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> flavour finer taste

I the manor

�� The Manor offers an idyllic setting for weddings, ceremonies, receptions and accommodation in one stunning and relaxing location. Enjoy exclusive use of this gorgeous manor house, just you and your friends to make your day that touch more special.

The Manor, which dates from AD1235 and has recently been luxuriously refurbished, is situated in extensive grounds on the Somerset/Devon borders, by the Blackdown Hills and is in an easy-to-reach spot for all of your guests. Two hours from London by rail and easily accessible from the M5.

The dining and drawing room are both licensed for civil wedding ceremonies with dining for up to 65 guests. The banquet hall is particularly cosy for winter weddings when lit with candlelight and a roaring fire.

in the spacious grounds, decorated and themed to your specific requirements.

The essence of The Manor is a complete and totally bespoke experience. Imaginative and visually stunning menus can be created to your exact requirements from a team of talented chefs and professional butlers who can be trusted to look after your guests’ every need. Grand marquees can be erected

We provide the complimentary services of an experienced wedding planner to help plan your day and source any specific services or facilities; this also includes liaison with suppliers and setting up on the day prior to the wedding which can be useful if you are not based in the area.

“Yours is no ordinary business. It’s about bringing great happiness and making dreams come true.

Everything about the weekend with you was perfect and it will live on with us in our memories. Thank you for being such generous, welcoming hosts.”

Jan & Andy

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Accommodation is available if required, on a catered or self-catered basis, for up to 24 guests staying overnight. Alternatively you can house up to 10 guests in the associated property, The Lake House.

With a wide array of additional local attractions, and just 35 minutes from the coast, The Manor has to be one of the best locations you could consider for your special day.

The Manor, Gerbestone Lane, West Buckland, Wellington, Somerset TA21 9PJ 01823 666297 www.themanorsomerset.co.uk

> flavour finer taste

I Lewtrenchard Manor

� “There are no words to say how much we enjoyed our wedding here. Thank you for perfect service. It was like a big happy family...We will be back!”

Natalie and Pierre De Villiers, May 2010

Lewtrenchard is a Jacobean Manor house, with 16 bedrooms and extensive grounds making the perfect venue for your exclusive day. Enjoy the finer details of the day with stunning chandelier’s in the ballroom, cosy open fires, a majestic wood panelled gallery and a sweeping staircase, perfect for making the ‘big dress’ entrance!

A Lewtrenchard wedding is like no other.

The ornate plasterwork of the ceilings, the

stained glass windows, the profusion of ornament and carving make the perfect backdrop to your photographs. From a day wedding with an intimate ceremony in the gallery followed by a Champagne reception on the lawn, to exclusive hire of the Manor with a gastronomic feast in the marquee, Lewtrenchard believe that your wedding day should be both unique and original.

If you want to find out more then pop along

to one of our open evenings (on 9th March, 25th May, 5th October, 16th November or 7th December) and enjoy a glass of champagne and some canapés and see how special Lewtrenchard can make your day.

Lewtrenchard Manor, Lewdown, Near Okehampton, Devon EX20 4PN 01566 783222 www.lewtrenchard.co.uk

I T r ac y Pa r k The historic estate lies just below Lansdown Hill in 240 acres of mature parkland. The magnificent façade of the Jacobean Manor House, terrace and the external gardens provide the most stunning backdrop for your wedding photographs. Inside, the chic décor including champagne silk curtains, create a sumptuous yet natural backcloth to your own colour scheme for the day.

Tracy Park is conveniently located 4 miles north of Bath and 10 miles east of Bristol, just minutes from Junction 18 on the M4.

Situated just off the A420, Tracy Park is the perfect location for all your wedding celebrations.

Tracy Park Hotel and Country Club, Bath Road, Wick, Nr Bath BS30 5RN. 0117 9371800 www.tracypark.co.uk

“What more can we say than, the perfect venue + the perfect food + the perfect service = the perfect day! Tracy Park delivered everything. Any questions or queries we had were answered immediately and we were given all the support that is required during the planning.”

Paul and Emily Perry, January 2011

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� > flavour finer taste

I cricklade house

Standing in over 30 acres of peaceful, secluded grounds on the edge of the Cotswolds, the privately-owned Cricklade House offers a traditional, warm and friendly welcome for those in search of the perfect stress-free wedding venue.

This beautiful and dignified country house, built at the turn of the last century, has been tastefully restored and carefully extended. Perhaps the most impressive addition is the magnificent Victorian-style glass conservatory which runs the full length of the original building, making the most of the hotel’s elevated position with wonderful panoramic views over the Wiltshire countryside.

At Cricklade House quality, comfort, attention to a client’s specific requirements and personal service, are the prime considerations. Positioned in over 30 acres of secluded grounds, yet close to the M5 and M4 Motorways as well as Swindon and Cirencester, Cricklade is easily accessible to guests travelling from across the country.

The 46 en suite bedrooms and a modern cuisine created by award-winning chef Lee

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Scott, ensure Cricklade House can cater to every requirement for your big day.

Recreational facilities, including a 9-hole golf course, tennis court, snooker, indoor pool, spa, steam room and gymnasium, means there is always something for your guests to be doing.

Experience complete relaxation and well being at The Beauty Source. Rachel Tanner, the award-winning beauty therapist, offers a wide range of luxurious beauty and massage therapies. Treat your skin to one of our professional facials or pamper yourself with a luxurious manicure or pedicure before your big day. The Hot Stone Massage offers the ultimate in relaxation.

The bridal party and guests can enjoy a full menu of treatments with bridal hair and make-up available on request.

We take pleasure in being part of your day and therefore prefer to meet beforehand to discuss your personal requirements. We will endeavour to tailor your package and will co-ordinate personally with you, to ensure continuity and attention to detail from the planning stage right through to the big day.

“We would like to thank you and your catering team for the amazing reception you provided..... the food was tasteful, the service superb and the venue, like the weather, beautiful.

All our guests enjoyed themselves tremendously” Hayley and Lee, May 2010

Cricklade House, Common Hill, Cricklade, Wiltshire SN6 6HA 01793 750751 www.crickladehotel.co.uk

� > flavour finer taste

I c ot s wo l d s 8 8 Romantics are invited to make the most important commitment of their lives at Cotswolds88hotel. With a full licence for wedding services, couples can share their day with up to 100 special friends and family as they exchange vows.

Cotswolds88hotel is set in the chocolate box village of Painswick, with easy access to the nearby towns of Cheltenham, Cirencester and Gloucester and only 40 minutes from Bath. Resting on an ancient Roman site, the 18th-century classical mansion is a spectacular example of a late Palladian house which has been altered over the decades by a variety of architects including arts and crafts impresario Detmar Blow.

Cotswolds88hotel provides a truly idyllic setting for your wedding or honeymoon with its stunning location and panoramic views across the Cotswold Hills. Every ceremony is bespoke and catered towards your every need. Believing that no two weddings should be the same, Cotswolds88hotel ensures every aspect should reflect the couple themselves, tailoring to every budget.

Cotswolds88hotel can offer you and your guests a menu based around your favourite dishes. Choose between a pre-order system or a more traditional wedding menu, where you and your guests all eat the same.

You will have a dedicated wedding planner from the start of your booking up to and including your big day. The idea is to take all the pressures away from organising the details. Weddings from this bespoke hotel have been featured in some of the best magazines in the country and worldwide, so you can relax and enjoy the experience knowing you are in good hands.

Cotswolds88 Hotel, Kemps Lane, Painswick, Gloucestershire GL6 6YB 01452 813688 www.cotswolds88hotel.com

SPECIAL OFFER: 20% off if you book your wedding in 2011!

was “Your attention to detail truly a second to none, it was ked magical day and you loo after us wonderfully… but I have received nothing nderful compliments for the wo which food, service and venue, ng ddi helped to make our we celebrations a day to be er.” remembered by us forev Mr and Mrs Brown, September

2008

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� > flavour finer taste

I n i b b l e d c at e r i n g

Theresa Faggetter at Nibbled Catering is passionate about good quality, locally produced ingredients and incorporates them into great tasting classic menus.

They have a fabulous range of wedding breakfast menus for you to select from but are also very happy to tailor a bespoke menu just for you. All prices include crisp white linen, white china, silver cutlery and table glassware. Whether you want a threecourse wedding breakfast, afternoon cream tea or an alfresco BBQ, they have ideas to suit all occasions. They also work with other tried and tested suppliers including marquee companies, florists and musicians.

Their chefs and front of house staff share the same enthusiasm for attention to detail and making your day the happiest of your lives is their priority. So whether you are having a small intimate wedding for 25 or a royal-sized affair, Nibbled Catering could be for you.

Nibbled Catering, 22 Northend, Batheaston, Bath BA1 7EN 01225 851072 www.nibbledcatering.co.uk

I Sample menu Canapes Baskets of quail’s eggs with red and black caviar Tartlets with crab, ginger, lime and chilli Asparagus spears with Parma ham and Parmesan shavings Smoked salmon blinis with sour cream and chives Pistachio sables with sharpen brie and figs Wedding Breakfast Pan fried seared scallops with asparagus and pea shoot salad with lemon oil and balsamic glaze Breast of Gressingham duck with honey and black pepper, served with dauphinoise potatoes, port wine jus and seasonal vegetables

Trio of desserts including bitter chocolate tart with blood orange ice cream vanilla pannacotta with mango coulis passion fruit sorbet Fresh coffee with chocolate truffles

“From our initial meetings through to the actual wedding day itself, your guidance and advice was exceptional. The N ‘ ibbled’ experience was low-key, relaxed and confident and I thoroughly enjoyed working with you, whether it was discuss ing canapé options, choosing appropriate cheeses or tasting main courses in your wonderful kitchen. The final menu was delicious and even two months later, the compliments from my guests are still arriving, which I think is the biggest compliment to you, Theresa, and your staff.”

Catherine Hayward, December 2010.

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� > flavour finer taste

I C h a r lto n H o u s e

Charlton House provides the ideal country house setting for weddings or civil partnerships, recognised as one of the finest wedding venues in England. No matter how you decide to celebrate your special day, you can be assured that the team will make it a day to remember for the rest of your lives.

“We were married here yesterday and all we can say is wow! Everything was fantastic and all our guests said the staff and food were simply the best. Thank you so much for making this the best weekend of our lives.”

Mr and Mrs Simon Lovell, September 2009

The service is seamless and friendly.

Charlton House provide menus for you in which you are able to customise and modify as you wish. Everything served is seasonal to ensure you get the best quality and locally sourced produce wherever possible.

Charlton House is the most romantic location to make your wedding day truly wonderful. All weddings are tailor-made to meet your specific requirements so that we can focus solely on yourself and making your wedding day truly memorable.

Individually designed bedrooms and the relaxation spa makes Charlton House an inviting space for guests.

Bannatyne’s Charlton House, Shepton Mallet, Somerset BA4 4PR 01749 342008 www.bannatyne.co.uk

I b ru n e l ’ s ss g r e at b r i ta i n Brunel’s ss Great Britain, at the heart of Bristol’s harbourside, offers a unique setting for wedding ceremonies and receptions.

Infused with romance, this city icon offers the best of everything for your special day that includes exceptional menus and wine lists.

The award-winning team will make sure you have a truly wonderful and memorable experience. From the moment you arrive for your ceremony, until the small hours of the morning when the dancing is done, you will be enchanted by your surroundings. This beautiful venue truly has to be seen to be believed.

Highlights of this unique and beautiful venue include the wonderful harbour views from the top deck making for stunning photographs and special memories; the beautiful promenade deck, with the fluttering flags of the ship above you, is ideal for wedding ceremonies; and the seasonal menus created with locally-sourced produce and an extensive wine list and drinks selection completes the experience.

Brunel’s ss Great Britain Great Western Dockyard Bristol BS1 6TY 0117 926 0680 www.ssgreatbritain.org

“We had the most amazing day and the venue was so spectacular, everybody commented on how beautiful the ship is. We can’t thank you enough for making it the most special day. You are wonderful at your job.”

Ade & Jo

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> flavour finer taste

� I t h e c l i f to n c lu b The Clifton Club’s spacious suite of rooms can be used in any combination and provide the ideal backdrop for your special day.

Their uniformed stewards offer discreet and professional service and bespoke menus can be provided for your wedding breakfast and drinks, allowing you to tailor make your big day one to remember.

After a two-year refurbishment the club’s extensive makeover was completed in 2009.

The main rooms have been restored to keep the original features intact, so the open fireplaces, gold leafed edging and hand painted ceilings are still the focal points of each well-appointed room.

The food at The Clifton Club falls to Scottish head chef Dougie Bonar. Following stints at a string of prestigious hotels including The Savoy in London, Dougie eventually set up his own restaurant back in his home city of Edinburgh. In the 10 years that followed, his natural flair for cooking saw Bonar’s Restaurant achieve two AA Rosettes and a Michelin M. The decision to relocate to Bristol to be with his family was closely followed by the opportunity to work at the Clifton Club – a challenge to incorporate his creativity and contemporary repertoire into the traditional setting of an up-and-coming club.

The club now offers fine dining for functions and private dinners from two to 200, using local produce as well as Dougie’s most respected Scottish suppliers. All of the menus are bespoke and created by Doug

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who smokes his own fish on site, bakes bread and hand makes chocolates and gelatos of every kind. His menus have both a traditional and contemporary influence in keeping with the club’s long heritage and its new beginnings. Dishes range from home smoked salmon with capers and venison with a lobster bisque to homemade steak and kidney suet puddings and Parmesan mash.

Menus for the members’ lunches change daily and seasonally, and lighter options are added for monthly ladies’ lunch. The order of the day here is fine dining experience at a competitive price. Monthly lunches and family Sunday lunches are also offered exclusively for members of the club, as well as discounts on private parties.

At the club the ethos is to appeal to the professional, the influential, the entrepreneurial and the interesting – likeminded people who enjoy a relaxed but exclusive environment with excellent social and networking opportunities. Opening the doors to the public provides a venue for people to hold a private event in stunning and exclusive surroundings, while unmasking the inner workings of an exquisite club.

The Clifton Club, 22 The Mall, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4DS 01179 745039 amy@thecliftonclub.co.uk www.thecliftonclub.co.uk

> flavour finer taste

smokes his own fish on site, bakes bread and “ Doug hand makes chocolates and gelatos of every kind. �

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� > flavour finer taste

I b i s h o p s t row h o u s e

Beautiful weddings and receptions come naturally to us at Bishopstrow House which is arguably one of the finest country house hotels in the South West. Whether your wedding is a small private affair or a large celebration with all your friends and family, Bishopstrow House is the perfect location set within 27 acres of woodland and a private stretch of the Wyle river. More suggestive of a lovely private house, Bishopstrow House has been recently refurbished complete with subtle lighting, fresh flowers and the kind of individual service that gives real character.

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Bishopstrow House is the definitive wedding reception or honeymoon venue. There are a variety of rooms providing both elegance matched with country house character, or for those wishing for something more

modern then the beautiful Mulberry Suite is the natural choice. Relax and be pampered in the Halcyon Spa where you and your guests can prepare for the big day with beauty treatments, a hair studio and a swimming pool at your fingertips.

“We just wanted to say a huge thank you for making our day so special. Everyone said how friendly and relaxed the whole day was and the attention to detail was fantastic.”

Eli and Ollie Payne

Book a personal consultation with one of the wedding co-ordinators to ensure your day runs smoothly. You can also hire out the hotel exclusively for you and your guests to ensure an experience that is personal, intimate and special. The team is professional and attentive leaving you with an experience that will remain with you and your guests forever.

Bishopstrow House Hotel and Spa Warminster, Wiltshire BA12 9HH 01985 212312 www.bishopstrow.co.uk

I A b s o lu t e ly c a k e s Absolutely Cakes is the home of lusciousness! As one of only five cake companies in the UK to have been awarded three gold stars from The Guild of Fine Food (for their famous St Clement’s cake) Absolutely Cakes is the luxury cake company. Having also received awards from Taste of the West, it’s clear to see that these really are cakes of distinction.

Each cake will be tailored to your wedding in terms of both looks and flavour to ensure that your wedding centrepiece will be worthy of the occasion and unique to you.

Choose from traditional, classical, elegant, modern, or novelty arranged as either multi tiered cakes or even cupcake towers!

Absolutely cakes are freshly made from the best of ingredients – fluffy flours, eggs from happy hens, butter and cream from contented cows, pure organic Madagascar bourbon vanilla, only the finest quality chocolate – and not a trans-fat in sight!

Absolutely Cakes believe their customers deserve the best so only use the juiciest, local, fresh and seasonal fruit.

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Absolutely Cakes understand that your wedding day is one of the most important days in your life and aim to ensure that your wedding cake will form a part of your treasured memories.

07532 054521. www.absolutelycakes.co.uk

� > flavour finer taste

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“We were quite specific about what we wanted and you gave us exactly what we had asked for and more!”

Krystal Welch, January 2011

I

go on, be a devil...

For a memorable hen night with a touch of sophistication and gastronomic delight, The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy in Bristol offers the perfect solution…

With women leaving it a little longer to tie the knot, pink banners and L-plates are increasingly left on the shelf. Those seeking a more stylish send-off need look no further than The Devilled Egg, the renowned Kitchen Academy based in Clifton. Head chef Barbora Stiess and her team will put together an entirely bespoke evening which

extra-special events

Pre-Wedding Course A course with Barbora, whose experience ranges from small-scale catering to Michelinstarred restaurant environments. One for those who really want to fine-tune their wedding feast.

Dinner Party and Demonstration with Wine Tasting Enjoy an intimate evening for the couple in question, or a fabulous party for their closest family and friends. Exquisite food served in the Georgian dining room, with an in-house chef on hand.

Perfect Wedding Wine The academy routinely sets up personalised wine and spirit tastings with the aim to find the right offering for the wedding breakfast.

is guaranteed to delight the taste buds and entertain the bride-to-be and her party.

The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy offers a huge range of events to choose from. You can build a package to suit your interests or let the team build the best night for you.

Cookery classes are an unusual but gratifying way to spend time with friends and make for a truly memorable experience.

For those steering clear of the kitchen however, cocktail-making lessons are a delicious and fun alternative.

Bridging the gap between fine dining and home cooking is one of Barbora’s aims with the school, as well as providing an in-depth knowledge of food: “We always leave it up to our clients to decide just how involved and hands-on they would like the classes to be. Ultimately we’re here to create the most entertaining day or evening possible, imparting some life-long skills along the way.”

Each event is designed to be as individual as the bride-to-be herself. You could start off for example with a mini cocktail-making session and a canapé demonstration in the lounge, before moving into the kitchen where you’ll prepare some of the dishes or just lend a helping hand with a glass of fizz in the other. Next, move to the spectacular Georgian dining room for your dinner party and wine tasting.

Rest assured that with Barbora’s wealth of experience, passion for food and her attention to the finer details, your experience will be both memorable and entertaining, offering the perfect commemorative evening with friends before the big day.

The Devilled Egg Latchford House, 8 Downfield Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2TH 01179 732823 07500 00 90 45 www.thedevilledegg.com

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> flavour finer taste

I

�

h e s t e rc o m b e g a r d e n s What can you imagine? A candle-lit ceremony and drinks reception in the Orangery? A themed evening party in the covered courtyard? An intimate gourmet dinner for a handful of friends? Or an extravagant hot buffet for 200? The flexible venues and innovative menus can be tailored to suit your requirements and budget at Hestercombe Gardens.

the unique advantage of being able to hold your ceremony, drinks reception, wedding breakfast and evening party all at one exquisite, convenient location.

Create the perfect backdrop to your photographs with the help of stunning lakes, cascades, temples and romantic corners at every turn. Visiting local growers, farmers, markets and bakers, the team of chefs have built an extensive network of Somerset producers to influence creative seasonal menus.

� Hestercombe, a classic, romantic English garden offers the perfect setting for your wedding. This breathtakingly beautiful garden has been lovingly restored to earn its place as one of Britain’s best-loved gardens whilst also earning worldwide acclaim. Hestercombe is also licensed for civil ceremonies and offers

“Everything went to plan even the weather. The gardens are glorious!

A big thank you to Julie!”

Mr and Mrs Timms

The very best support and expert advice is available, whenever you need. The hospitality team is on hand to support you throughout – from your first enquiry to the big day, attending to every tiny detail.

Hestercombe Gardens Cheddon Fitzpaine Taunton, Somerset TA2 8LG 01823 413923 www.hestercombe.com>

I c l av e l s h ay b a r n

Clavelshay Barn offers the ideal venue for a simple country wedding in a beautiful, natural setting. The food is fresh and local and the servce is very personal, offering the perfect option for a tailored wedding that won’t cost the earth. Even though Clavelshay do not have a license to marry, they can hold a blessing or humanist ceremony in the grounds.

Choose from cream teas or sit down menus to evening buffets and hog roasts, with drinks tailored to what you want. Marquees are also available for hire from simple tents, perfect for the more rustic style of wedding, to larger marquees with a few more details.

Lower Clavelshay Farm North Petherton, Taunton TA6 6PJ

01278 662629 www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk

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“We just wanted to thank you for giving us the perfect wedding day.

We knew it was the perfect setting as soon as we saw it last year and you then turned our ideas into reality and made the day happen.

You and your team were amazing and the food was perfect. We loved every minute of the day… and we look forward to celebrating many more special occasions at Clavelshay.”

Emma and Steve, June 2010

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> flavour finer taste

I ambience venue styling

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Ambience is the premier venue styling company in the UK. Renowned for their reliability, creativity, quality and value, owner and professional stylist Kathryn King won’t rest until every detail is perfect.

Ambience can supply everything from chair covers and linen in white, ivory and black to coloured sashes, matching table runners,

“From initial meeting to the finished article, we were thoroughly impressed with Kathryn at Ambience’s attention to detail and creative eye. She managed to turn a blank canvass into our guests’ lasting memory of the wedding. ...Thank you for your part in making it our perfect day.”

Carl & Hannah Tomlin, January 2011.

flavour reader offer

napkins, top and cake table swags. You can have starlight backdrops, a range of table centres and other finishing touches to complete your look.

Kathryn understands the way you dress your venue can transform your wedding day into something totally personal and unique. Kathryn works with her clients by arranging a free of charge design consultation at their venue to discuss themes and colours; taking into account the bride and groom’s personalities and how they want their venue to look.

Free consultation. To book call 0800 043 9167 or 07807 254 349 or email Kathryn at bristol@ ambiencevenuestyling.com and quote ‘flavour’

If you’ve just set your date, or even if you’re getting married in a month, Ambience Venue Styling Bristol can help you create your dream vision for the best day of your life.

0800 0439167 www.ambiencevenuestyling.com

I h o m e wo o d pa r k h ot e l a n d s pa Homewood Park is a most magical luxury country house wedding hotel near Bath.

Whether organising a small intimate or large family affair, Homewood Park is the perfect wedding venue for you.

Their dedicated wedding planner will be delighted to guide you through the planning of your big day, be it an exclusive use marquee wedding or small family dinner.

elegant venue, set in 10 acres of stunning award winning gardens; boasting the perfect setting for your wedding day photographs, ensuring the most memorable day of your lives.

For those who choose Homewood as their wedding venue, they will offer a special one night bed and breakfast stay on your first anniversary, so the magical day to be relived.

Three rosette head chef Daniel Moon will work with you to create a delicious tailored wedding breakfast menu sure to impress your guests.

Homewood Park Hotel & Spa, Abbey Lane, Hinton Charterhouse, Bath BA2 7TB

They pride themselves on being a relaxed,

www.homewoodpark.co.uk

01225 723 731

events@homewoodpark.co.uk

“A very big thank you for making our daughter’s dream wedding come true. Please thank the chef and his team, all of our guests thought the food was exceptional. Everything came together perfectly, and our guests had a great time.”

Mr & Mrs Jordan

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“iSpectacular catering wherever you want” Market Place Fairford GL7 4AB T: 01285 711111 E: events@alliumfood.co.uk W: www.alliumfood.co.uk

Cotswold Life Chef of the Year ‘09 Country Life - Top 10 Country Restaurants ‘09

Events Restaurant Deli

FOU3761 Tort Wedd ad 190x133h:FOU3761 Tort Wedd ad 190x133h 13/12/2010 15:39 Page 1 ALIUM EVENTS COTSWOLD WEDDING 1/2 PG AW V2.indd 1

Follow in the footsteps of Royalty

Book your wedding on a Friday in 2011 and receive a special rate.

Are you getting married in the same year as William and Kate? Not everyone is fortunate enough to have their ceremony at Westminster Abbey, but why not hold your special day in our newly refurbished Westminster Suite? Fully licensed for civil ceremonies and wedding breakfasts for up to 250 people, you’re sure to be treated like Royalty.

Tortworth Court Hotel has the perfect venue for you – choose between the unique and stunning Orangery, the characteristic and opulent Moreton’s Restaurant or our marquee located in our superb grounds.

Call 01454 263000 or email tortworth.weddings@four-pillars.co.uk for our weddings brochure.

Visit www.four-pillars.co.uk/tortworth

Tortworth Court Four Pillars Hotel Tortworth,Wotton-under-Edge, South Gloucestershire, GL12 8HH Top right-hand image is an artist’s impression of the newly refurbished Westminster Suite.

15/12/10 16:30:43

> flavour olive tree restaurant

salmon ballotine with seaweed and radish salad

After stints in Hong Kong and London, Nick Brodie took up a junior sous chef role at the Chester Grosvenor Hotel where he remained for several years working alongside Simon Radley. Here, he honed his skills during fast and busy services before the lure of the South West became irresistible.

He became the Royal Crescent’s senior sous chef and, drawing on both his professional experience in Hong Kong and his own travels around Asia, he oversaw the then fusion restaurant which became the launching pad for the unique style that he now brings to The Olive Tree Restaurant.

The Queensberry Hotel & Olive Tree Restaurant 4-7 Russel Street Bath BA1 2QF 01225 447 928 www.thequeensberry.co.uk

“This salmon dish is one of my favourites, it’s a really healthy dish with a striking presentation. Native seaweed is not only packed with antioxidants and vitamins but it’s also free to those willing to slip on their wellies and do some foraging!”

Serves 4 Ingredients 1 half of a side of salmon 500g of fresh British seaweed (red tandy, sea lettuce and channel wrack kelp are good choices) 1 bunch of breakfast radish 8 large fresh British prawns Sesame oil Sesame seeds 1 Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. 2 Carefully butterfly your salmon lengthways taking care not to cut through the other side, you want to be able to open it up and close it again.

3 Place a thin layer of seaweed in the middle of your salmon and close it up.

4 Roll the salmon into a sausage shape starting at one end.

5 Wrap your “sausage” tightly in cling film and place in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

6 Slice the salmon crossways across the sausage to create discs approx 1-1.5 inches thick (keep the cling film in place).

7 Pan fry the salmon until golden and repeat for the other side.

8 Remove the cling film, place on a baking tray and bake in the oven for five minutes.

9 Thoroughly wash your fresh seaweed and slice into thin strips.

10 Thinly slice the radish and add to seaweed.

11 Add half a teaspoon of sesame seeds to the salad and lightly drizzle with sesame oil.

12 Flash fry the prawns in a little butter until cooked through.

13 Add the prawns to the salad and gently mix.

14 Assemble and serve.

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> flavour chef profile

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> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Blaine Reed Originally from: Forest of Dean Head Chef at: The Tudor Farmhouse and Hotel

I was born in Cinderford in the Forest of Dean. When I was five we moved away for my dad’s job and 38 years later, I am back.

It is hard to not fall in love with this area, it was a natural choice to cook amongst it once again.

I have enjoyed my time away, working for some inspirational people at some of the UK’s best hotels. I worked as a chef patron for the Yockleton Arms as well as head chef at the three Rosette Old Vicarage Hotel in Shropshire. I was there for eight years and we achieved a Michelin Red M. After the vicarage I had my own restaurant for three-and-a-half years. We sold up and afterwards I wanted to move down to this part of the world.

It’s just a great industry to be in. Coming in lower down the ladder is really hard work but I love my job. My brief at Tudor Farm House was to put the restaurant back on the market with consistently nice food, produced by a dedicated team. We have had the same team now for over two years and I think it tells in the food.

The modern day attitude from youngsters chopping and changing jobs every few months is, I think, bad practice. Now we are recognised as one of the best restaurants in the Forest of Dean.

The Tudor Farmhouse and Hotel Clearwell Royal Forest of Dean Gloucestershire GL16 8JS 01594 833046 www.tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

My mum hated cooking but I couldn’t wait to train. When I finished at catering college at the age of 18, I spent three years doing gastro-pub type food which I really didn’t enjoy. It was a guy called Nick Walton who at the time was a chef at the Dorchester who really got me into haute cuisine. I haven’t looked back since. It’s the combination of flavours and the things you can get out of food which I love. I also like using rare breeds as I think you can get

more from them than anything else. I’m not really a rib-eye steak man.

A lot of my career has been focused on English cooking, so bringing a modern twist to it at Tudor Farm was the natural choice for me. My aim with the food here is simple, keep it good, consistent and maintain the accolades so people keep coming back. There’s no better compliment for a chef than seeing empty plates. If they leave happy without a complaint, I know we have done our job.

My background is mainly three Rosettes and we have talked about trying for it here but to go for it is quite a big decision which requires financial commitment.

For now I’m happy to keep making gradual improvements, ensuring our existing customers are happy . If more rosettes and awards come in the meantime then that would be a bonus.

We make seasonal changes to the menu but change small ingredients quickly as they come into season. We devise the menus as a group and I tell them what will and won’t work. I let my kitchen team get creative as much as possible. We have a wealth of superb producers to source ingredients from including Madgetts Farm and Cowshill Farm to name just two. We also work closely with a local forager Raoul van den Broucke who is able to source a range of unusual fungi, herbs and fruit for use on the menu.

I think it’s important to get more young people into the industry. It’s a good career to have as long as you love what you are doing. I would tell people to just concentrate and learn, soak it all up and stay put for at least a year. ■ 55

Made on the farm with milk from our organic herd

Cheese Shop at Park Farm 58 Stanton-BathPriory:P.52

4/9/10

16:08

Page 1

Bath Soft Cheese Bath Blue, Wife of Bath Kelston and Bath Brie

Kelston - just 2 miles west of Bath on A431

Telephone: 01225 331601 - Email:sales@parkfarm.co.uk - www.parkfarm.co.uk

• Rosemary Restaurant • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch • “All you can eat” dinner on Thursdays • Japanese à la carte menu • Afternoon cream tea on the patio

The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk

StantonHouseHotel www.stantonhouse.co.uk

> flavour drops by

drops by... flavour

coffee @ camden From a business meeting, to a catch up with friends or some much needed alone time, coffee culture is now a part of many villages, towns and cities across the world. The desire to escape into your own comfy corner was a need recognised by Coffee @ Camden owner Sara Fairchild, who has worked hard since its opening two years ago to create a sanctuary for the community of Camden in Bath.

the heart of the community. “People can come in for a take-away lunch, a coffee or a quick bite to eat, from a salad to a panini with friends. We try and offer a bit of everything.”

“I have always wanted something of my own and when this place came up, it was perfect. We call this place the community café because of where it is; Camden definitely has its own buzz.”

Coffee @ Camden entices passer-bys inside with warm, cosy lighting and kitsch design. Fun, easy-going and a touch girly, this small haven is a sweet treat filled with naughty but nice goodies and delicious beverages. “The coffee is our own blend, a dark roast, full body coffee which people can buy. We also use The London Tea Company whose Fairtrade and organic tea is just divine.”

Serving a trade of yummy mummies, dedicated locals and doctor stop-offs, Coffee @ Camden has earned its place at

With a south-facing terrace overlooking the whole of Bath, it’s no wonder that the warmer months sees queues out of the

door. If however, you cannot wait to make a visit then pop in for a bespoke cupcake evening where you can learn the fine-fun of making your own cakes and sugar craft. Alternatively hide yourself away with a hot chocolate made from dark chocolate blossoms, marshmallows and cream. ■ Coffee @ Camden 2 Claremont Terrace Bath BA1 6EH Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9-5 Sat 9-2

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> flavour xxxxxxx

côte brasserie Nestled in the heart of Clifton, this month Faye Allen discovers a type of food that will never go out of fashion...

Not a lot has come from the recession that we would choose to re-live apart from a small feat in the gastronomic world: the desire to get back to basics.

Love them or hate them, there’s no denying that the French have got a point when they crown themselves as leaders of the gastronomic world. Recent years have proven that we Brits can certainly give the French a run for their money, but there’s something about their classical style that we simply cannot get enough of. That’s why discovering Côte Brasserie in the heart of Clifton - offering French cooking at its simplest with reasonable prices to boot made me see times of austerity in a very different light.

Côte Brasserie 27 The Mall, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4JG 0117 970 6779 www.cote-restaurants.co.uk 58

Sitting down to a menu of moules marinières, duck confit and boeuf bourguignon gave me a sneaking suspicion that we were about to experience the traditional and authentic French cooking of Elizabeth David’s era.

Côte is the latest in a burgeoning chain of restaurants owned by Richard Caring whose other establishments include The

Ivy and London’s Le Caprice as well as the Solo House group. As one would therefore expect, the object of its décor is simple; Parisian dining at its most modern. Stylish, elegant and a touch moody, the mirrors, dark leather banquettes and plush purples make for an adults-only dining experience.

Silence proceeded as we took our time choosing the dishes of what we could tell would be a memorable meal. Keeping the hunger pangs at bay, we dug into a chopping board full of saucisson sec and pissaladière–Burgundian sausage and a traditional flatbread with anchovies, olives and parsley. A fresh and vibrant entrée to welcome my chosen starter.

Steak tartare (£6.80), finely chopped raw beef with shallots, capers, cornichons, egg yolk and cognac melted in the mouth. The pickles brought the beef to life, confirming how well this classic combination of flavours can work. My dinner guest opted for the duck foie gras (£6.95) and wherever you stand on the foie gras debate, this particular offering was rich, smooth, creamy and mild, a striking example served with the monbazillac dessert wine.

> flavour côte brasserie

Scanning through a competitive and beautifully crafted menu, the boeuf bourguignon (£12.95) was a natural choice.

This luxurious stew was everything one would expect from this traditional French dish. Tender braised beef, deep, velvety wine, firm chestnut mushrooms and sweet carrots. Heart-warming and divine. The dish was served with potato and chive purée and garnished with a heart-shaped piece of fried bread - a nod no doubt to the nation of romance.

The braised lamb shank (£13.50) was my dinner guest’s picking, and although all attempts at keeping a touch of food envy at bay were well concealed, the cut proved a faultless choice. Falling from the bone, the lamb served with mashed potato and a veal and rosemary sauce was superb.

Smooth, light and a satisfying palate cleanser, the crème caramel (£4.50) was a wise choice from my guest. The dark chocolate mousse (£4.50) was however, the best decision of the evening. I haven’t the nerve to spoil the details for you but needless to say, this classic dessert is the best example you are likely to find this side of the Seine river.

Côte Brasserie’s focus on the simplicity of classic Gallic gastronomy can be read in every detail. The staff, seeming as if they had walked off Michel Roux’s Service were at once unobtrusive and helpful. The atmosphere was relaxed yet indulgent and the cuisine, at once thoughtful and simple.

Rejoicing in the rediscovery of a cuisine one can’t help but adore, the next visit was planned even before the coffees arrived. ■

The dark chocolate mousse is the best example you are likely to find this side of the Seine river...

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> flavour rising sun

the rising sun A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

If someone says the words ‘brewery tap’ to you, what image is conjured up in your mind?

It probably evokes tatty bars tacked on to industrial-sized breweries. This stems from the days when breweries thought that the only responsibility they had to their customers was to brew good beer.

Such niceties as good food, carpets and an enjoyable customer experience were barely considered.

Fortunately, these days a brewery tap is seen as a showcase for the best the brewery has to offer and as such seeks to combine good beer with fine hospitality, comfort and a lovely meal. This is certainly true of The Rising Sun in Frampton Cotterell, brewery tap of the Great Western Brewing Company in Hambrook, just north of Bristol.

The Rising Sun 43 Ryecroft Road Frampton Cotterell BS36 2HN 01454 772 330 60

The Rising Sun is tucked away down a residential street in a quiet part of Frampton Cotterell and so is not a pub you will find by accident. It is well worth seeking out, though. A cream coloured building with tiled roofing, a sloping car park and a few bench tables by the road side, its exterior is deceptive. This is a good old traditional village pub.

As you enter through an extended porch, you find three brickwork squared arches ahead of you leading to the bar. Before that a sharp turn right will take you into a corralled seating and dining area with red banquette seating, and circular tables with wrought iron bases. There is a piano in the corner, which has been known to be pressed into service by the locals, and shelving above the window adorned by bric-a-brac, toby jugs and a variety of figurines.

A black-tiled L-shaped drinking area is served from a darkwood bar with fullheight stools ranged along it. There are

> flavour rising sun

Raise a glass to...

GWB Maiden Voyage (4%) Halfway between a ‘Best’ and a ‘Premium’ bitter, this amber coloured beer is fruity to the nose, but is very easy on the taste buds.

GWB Classic Gold (4.4%) Coloured as its name suggests, this is a slightly stronger ale than it tastes and is deceptively full-bodied.

It should be savoured rather than gulped down.

But it would seem more than a mite churlish to visit a Brewery Tap without ‘tapping’ the beers from the brewery.

The Great Western Brewing Company was founded in 2008 in an old bakery just off the Hambrook traffic lights on Bristol’s ring road. The building has been extensively refurbished but the brewery still retains many of the bakery’s original features, and is well worth a visit in its own right.

pictures and mirrors on the walls and, above the bar, framed confirmation that the Rising Sun has been a regular entry in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide for the last umpteen years, including 2011.

And no wonder, for the gleaming hand pumps offer a delectable choice of real ales. As well as two from the Great Western Brewing Company, there is Butcombe Bitter, definitely at the bitter end of the bitter scale but no less refreshing for that; Draught Bass, the Grand Old Lady of real ales; and the fragrant copper Wadworth 6X.

On our visit, the Rising Sun was showcasing Maiden Voyage – somewhere between a Best Bitter and a Premium Beer, almost fulvous in colour and dangerously quaffable; and Classic Gold – a stronger, much more full-bodied pint despite its blonde colour.

Butcombe Bitter (4%) Brewed in Somerset since 1978, this is a bitter whose taste lives up to the name: a truly bitter bitter. There’s a faint hint of lemon in there too, plus a good old whack of malt.

Bass (4.4%) This is one of those good oldfashioned beers that has the aroma of hops, the flavour of hops and, in the aftertaste, more hops. A beer like they used to make.

Wadworth 6X (4.3%) This has a fruity aroma, which is also present in the taste, but there is a pleasing bitterness to the brew. The hops come through in the end too.

There is also a skittle alley, function room and secret garden to the rear. All in all, the Rising Sun is a very convivial place to sample some fine beer, exquisite restaurant or pub food and a good old natter. I only popped in for a pint and ended up relying on the designated driver to get me home after several pints and a heated debate on the talents or otherwise of 50’s heart-throb Johnnie Ray... ■

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> flavour wildfire bistro

wildfire bistro In the heart of a picturesque Devon town brimming with local produce and great cooking, Jennie Clark finds a hotspot worth shouting about...

The Wildfire Bistro at the Dart Marina Hotel has been open for four-and-ahalf years now, but it’s still a taste of something new for Dartmouth, a booming foodie haven. It’s a new kind of restaurant – stylish, yet affordable.

In the heart of historic, maritime Dartmouth, the hotel is a local institution where boat and town life meet – equally as popular with the visiting yachtsmen as the beach-going holidaymakers. After a day of exploring the rugged coastline or boutique shopping, you can choose from exquisite fine dining in the two Rosette AA River Restaurant, or stop off for a crab sandwich and a local ale at The Floating Bridge pub, also run by the hotel.

My first visit to the Wildfire Bistro was during a July evening when the heated terrace is always full of atmosphere, with passing trays of summer cocktails and fat tempura prawns. So I was intrigued this time to discover how the menu would adapt to this season’s chilly weather.

One prevailing memory from my last visit was the homemade bread – always a different variety, and served oven-hot with oil and vinegar. This time it didn’t disappoint either – roasted tomato and goat’s cheese, rich and pastry-light.

Dart Marina Hotel &Spa Sandquay Road Dartmouth Devon TQ6 9PH

For starters we went all seafood (in Dartmouth, it’s a must) – hand dived scallops, roasted and glazed with a Parmesan crust and frisse salad (£9.50) and Bigbury Bay oysters on crushed ice with lemon, and shallot vinegar (£9.50).

The fact the scallops were roasted meant they were much hotter than if they were briefly pan-seared – a subtle wintry twist, with rich, salty Parmesan. And the oysters were just the taste of the sea – served here with a view onto the water too!

01803 837180 www.wildfirebistro.com

After much deliberation I chose the Creedy carver duck breast with fondant

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potato, Irish cabbage and juniper and star anise sauce (£19.50). The duck was just pink, thin slices laid round the delicately shredded cabbage. The fondant potato was lovingly butter-browned, and the light, fragrant sauce bound the smoky pancetta and sweet duck in moreish combination.

Continuing my cold weather cravings into the wine, I went straight for the warm, spicy reds and an Argentinian Malbec (£10.50 large glass). It was a stand-alone delight, inimitable and, as promised, ‘a real hero, with its dark succulent fruit’.

My partner opted for the inviting ‘Winter Bites’ section of the menu – a pan-seared minute sirloin steak, on griddled homebaked bread smeared with Dijon mustard, garlic mushrooms, French fried onions and gorgeous triple cooked chips (£12).

It’s one of several really tantalising and good value dishes on the menu – the pumpkin risotto is served with Parmesan shavings and truffle oil (£13). And I’m already planning my next visit for the slow braised shin of beef, macaroni cheese and sticky beef sauce (£15.50).

For dessert I succumbed to the hot, dark chocolate fondant, Horlicks ice-cream and chocolate tuille (£7), which was as good as it sounds. My partner chose the seasonal fruit, poached with cinnamon and spices with a crumble topping and vanilla custard (£7).

The real delight of the Wildfire Bistro is the sense of indulging yourself, without a tooindulgent price tag. It’s perfectly pitched as a relaxed, sociable destination, with great food and impeccable class. In Dartmouth it’s always been rustic that’s ruled, but with several more modern restaurants and cocktail bars springing up this year, the Wildfire Bistro must be on to a winner. ■

> flavour xxxxxxx

In the heart of historic, maritime Dartmouth, the hotel is a local institution where boat and town life meet

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> flavour oxford

Oxford is as famous for its dreaming spires as it is for its scholarly heritage. This month we take to the cobbled streets to learn where the best places are to eat, drink and sleep…

the oxford Elite

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons

Le Manoir, nestled in the picturesque Oxfordshire village of Great Milton, is renowned as one of Britain’s finest gastronomic experiences. It is also one of the country’s most intimate and original hotels, with 32 individually-designed guest rooms.

Created by celebrated chef Raymond Blanc, Le Manoir has been delighting guests since 1984. A year later it was awarded two Michelin stars, which it has now held for a remarkable 27 years.

Surrounded by lawns, flower borders and orchards, Le Manoir enjoys an idyllic setting. But beyond the eye-catching displays are vegetable and herb gardens that provide the kitchen with ultra-fresh, and often exotic, produce that helps keep

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“Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons is the fulfilment of a personal vision, a dream that one day I would create a hotel and restaurant in harmony where my guests would find perfection in food, comfort, service and welcome.”

Raymond Blanc O.B.E

the kitchens at the cutting edge of taste.

The modern French menu has been described as ‘a twist of imaginative genius’ and the cuisine is undoubtedly the focus of every guest’s visit.

Raymond Blanc has now opened a cookery school for adults and children at Le Manoir. The school offers different generations the opportunity to learn and enjoy the delights of cooking together in an informative and fun one-day course.

Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons Church Road, Great Milton, Oxford OX44 7PD 01844 278881 www.manoir.com

> flavour oxford

Also try...

Burford House

Known as the ‘Gateway to the Cotswolds’, Burford is an ideal base for exploring the nearby Cotswolds and Oxfordshire and Burford House, a 17th-century landmark on Burford’s famous High Street, is now one of the most highly regarded small hotels in the Cotswolds.

This large, yet beautiful building houses eight bedrooms, all decorated individually. Downstairs guests will find two intimate sitting rooms, with a log stove and bar and a pretty courtyard garden. Your stay includes an-award winning freshly-prepared breakfast.

The Kingham Plough

Just a 30-minute drive from Oxford, a quintessentially Cotswold Inn boasts an outstanding restaurant alongside the perfect village pub.

Former sous chef to Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck, chef proprietor Emily Watkins changes the short menu daily to accommodate the abundant seasonal and local produce. Daily deliveries from local fruit farms, smallholdings and game estates, as well as foraged fungi and sea vegetables all arrive to be transformed into exquisite British dishes.

Most recently the pub celebrated retaining its Bib Gourmande from Michelin for the third consecutive year.

Burford House Hotel, 99 High Street, Burford , Oxfordshire OX18 4QA 01993 823151 www.burfordhouse.co.uk

Hawkwell House

Hawkwell House Hotel is set in the silhouette of Oxford’s dreaming spires, this homely hotel provides a tranquil setting near the river Thames. The imposing white house, set in the mature gardens is the ideal location to escape to from the city centre.

All our guests are drawn to Hawkwell House Hotel by a reputation for outstanding food, discreetly attentive service, and the urbane comforts of a privately-owned, country-town hotel.

Our conference suites are available for meetings, and all our grounds are open for weddings.

The Kingham Plough Kingham, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire OX7 6YD

Hawkwell House Hotel Iffley Village, Oxford OX4 4DZ

01608 658327 www.thekinghamplough.co.uk

01865 749988 www.hawkwellhouse.co.uk

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ROLLING BACK THE YEARS‌ FAMILY OWNED, FAMILY RUN, FAMILY VALUES! Cotswold charm and six hundred years of history in the newly restored Old Swan and Minster Lovell brought to you by the de Savary Family.

Set on the banks of the beautiful and famous River Windrush, close to Oxford, the Inn and adjoining Mill are a quintessential English country retreat.

Think cosy oak-beamed, flag-stoned snugs, sumptuous sitting rooms and elegantly comfy bedrooms. Tasty gastro-pub inspired dining using fresh local ingredients crafted into heart-warming favourites. Set in 65 acres of magical gardens and wild-flower meadows, there’s tennis, boules, spa and over a mile of superb fishing as well as a children’s petting farm.

Visit www.oldswanandminstermill.com CirCa 1445

Old Swan & Minster Mill on

THE rivEr WindruSH, in THE COTSWOldS

Old Minster, Minster Lovell, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 0RN ENGLAND Tel: +44 (0) 1993 774441 E: enquiries@oldswanandminstermill.com an HiSTOriC inn, HOTEl and Spa Old Swan & Minster Mill, School Hill, Minster Lovell, Witney, Oxfordshire, OX29 0RN Telephone: 01993 774441 Fax: 01993 702 002 Email: enquiries@oldswanandminstermill.com www.oldswanandminstermill.com

New for 2011 Truly irresistible...our new charcoal oven,

L U N C H T I M E

daffo-deal

CHEF’S CHOICE MAIN COURSE WITH GLASS OF SELECTED WINE

ÂŁ10

> flavour oxford

Raymond Blanc’s Pistou soup This hearty peasant soup – combining lots of fresh vegetables in a flavoursome broth – is truly delicious. There is some dispute over its origin, with both the French and Italians claiming it as their own. The pistou of Provence (a paste of garlic and basil) is the foundation of this most renowned French soup and is similar to the Italian pesto.

Serves 4 For the pistou Handful of basil leaves and stalks (30g) 4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 100ml extra virgin olive oil Pinch of sea salt 2 pinches of freshly ground white pepper For the soup 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil ½ medium onion, peeled and cut into 1cm dice 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1cm dice ½ celery stick, cut into 1cm dice ½ small fennel bulb, cut into 1cm dice

1 small courgette, cut into 1cm cubes 5 pinches of sea salt Pinch of freshly ground white pepper 700ml boiling water 50g freshly podded peas (optional) 60g freshly podded broad beans (optional) 60g French beans (optional) 1 medium tomato (skin on), diced 50g pistou (see above) 40g Parmesan, for grating To serve 20 thin croûtes, rubbed with a cut garlic clove, or a large handful of croûtons

1 Plunge the basil into a pan of boiling water and blanch for 3 seconds only, then remove and refresh in cold water; drain well. Purée all the pistou ingredients in a blender. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Keep in a sealed container in the fridge until required, unless using straight away. You’ll need 50g for the soup.

2 Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, fennel and courgette and sweat gently for 3–4 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper. Pour the boiling water into the pan, then add the peas, broad beans and French beans, if using, and boil rapidly for 3–4 minutes. During the last minute of cooking, add the tomato, 50g pistou sauce and a generous handful of grated Parmesan. Taste and correct the seasoning if necessary.

3 Pour the soup into a warmed tureen and grate over some more of the Parmesan.

Place the croûtes or croûtons, Parmesan and grater on the table so guests may help themselves.

Raymond Blanc’s Kitchen Secrets is published by Bloomsbury.

RRP £25 67

Lovejoys Wholesale

Fabulous

vodka company

• Fruit • Dairy

• Vegetables • Bread

Quality ingredients for restaurant kitchens in the West Wilts and Bath area. Local produce grown exclusively for us including specialist crops.

‘If you are passionate about your food we’d like to talk to you’

01225 708838 www.lovejoyswholesale.com

Tasty food and now even tastier rooms available.

One has been dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century.

The George Inn, Wedmore.

“The love child of Henry Fielding and Bridget Jones.”

Telephone: 01934 712124.

www.fabulousvodka.co.uk

> flavour sian blunos

know your

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

fruit

F FRUIT F R R U UIT TI

Pineapple Muffins Ingredients 250g plain flour 1 tbsp baking powder 75g sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon 90ml milk 55g pineapple or apple juice 150g chopped pineapple, fresh or tinned 1 egg, beaten 75g unsalted butter, melted Method 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C, 375°F. Grease a muffin tin or line it with paper cases.

2 In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and sugar. In another bowl, combine the milk, pineapple or apple juice, egg and butter.

3 Pour the wet ingredients into the bowl of dry ingredients and stir until just combined. Be careful not to overstir. Add the pineapple and stir again once or twice.

4 Spoon the batter into the muffin tins and bake for 20-25 minutes until brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin.

There are some great ‘deals’ around at the moment, fresh pineapple being one of them. Being able to buy fresh pineapple for the same price as tinned has meant a surge in popularity for this tropical fruit.

Europe did not become acquainted with the luscious yellow fruit until Christopher Columbus discovered it in his 1493 voyage.

When he brought pineapples back to the court, the fruit was an instant hit among royals. Pineapples were hard to come by and were actively pursued after that first taste of sweetness. Only the wealthiest and most powerful could obtain one.

The desired fruit was so rare that King Charles II of England posed for an official portrait accepting one as a gift. Thus, the pineapple became a symbol of royal privilege across the world.

Next to bananas, pineapple is the second most popular tropical fruit. It is native to South America, particularly Brazil and Paraguay. Pineapples are also known as Piña, Nanas and Ananas.

Pineapple contains micro-nutrients that experts believe protect against cancer as well as being beneficial to the heart.

Pineapple juice contains chemicals that

stimulates the kidneys and aids in removing toxic elements in the body.

This fruity number also helps prevent gum disease and the formation of plaque, thus keeping little teeth healthy. ■

Cooking for Coco Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com 69

> flavour cookery coach

Thanks to Cookery Coach, a mobile cookery school, you can now discover the gastronomic delights of Bath one step at a time...

flavours of bath Spend the morning with Neville Leaning, your own professional cookery tutor and take your time exploring delicious local food emporiums, sampling some of the South West’s finest produce and shopping for mouthwatering ingredients along the way. From artisan cheesemongers and local butchers to historic markets and decadent delis, you’ll uncover Bath’s foodie havens as you choose your ingredients for the afternoon’s cookery lesson. Neville comments: “I saw the concept travelling in Thailand. I went on a cookery day in Chiang Mai and we went to the local market in the morning and learnt about the ingredients.

I thought Bath would be perfect for this.”

After you have gathered together your favourite delights and enjoyed a West Country lunch, Neville will guide you into the kitchen of the Three Abbey Green Guest House to learn how to prepare an impressive three-course meal. The cookery lesson is an exciting three-hour hands-on session where you will be able

Shopping bags at the ready Be Hansel and Gretel for the day and follow Nev along a breadcrumb trail with a difference...

Thoughtful Bread Company: “Duncan and his team make bread in tune with the seasons.

His potato and rosemary bread is exceptional.”

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to learn knife skills and preparation techniques as well as many inspirational recipes. Here you will use your chosen local ingredients to create a menu that you can recreate for friends and family in your own kitchen. Neville continues: “You can try your hand at anything from pea pancakes with a saffron poached egg and balsamic syrup to a loin of Somerset pork with a pear tart and cider and tyme jus.”

After you have prepared and cooked your chosen menu, sit down, relax and enjoy the rewards of the day’s work with a welldeserved glass of wine and, of course, your carefully prepared dish. What’s more, the team cleans up the mess and sends you home with printed copies of the recipes.

Nevile concludes: “we want people to feel proud of their day here. By keeping your town in business, you’re keeping your business in town.” ■ T: 07771 782838 W: www.cookerycoach.co.uk

Bath Station Fruit and Veg: “Being so close to the countryside the fruit and veg in Bath is so fresh and vibrant.”

> flavour cookery coach

The Sausage Shop: “Joe has over 300 sausage recipes to his name and only uses natural ingredients.”

Bartletts the Butchers: “Celebrating its 80th anniversary this year, Bartletts is a great family butcher with old fashioned values right in the city centre.”

The Fine Cheese Company: “It’s worth coming to Bath just to visit this cheesemongers alone. An amazing place.”

Harvest: “A must for vegans, vegetarians and food lovers alike. An eco friendly shop with an amazing array of dried herbs and spices.”

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> flavour national xxxxxxx trust

Spring in your step With government plans to sell off the English forest abandoned due to public outcry, what better reason to get out and celebrate our beloved English heritage with the help of the National Trust…

Prior Park Landscape Garden One of only four Palladian bridges of this design in the world can be crossed at Prior Park, which was created in the 18th century by local entrepreneur Ralph Allen, with advice from ‘Capability’ Brown and the poet Alexander Pope. Restoration of the ‘Wilderness’ has reinstated the Serpentine Lake, Cascade and Cabinet.

Clevedon Court Home to the lords of the manor of Clevedon for centuries, the core of the house is a remarkable survival from the medieval period. The house was purchased by Abraham Elton in 1709 and it is still the much-loved family home of his descendants today. The Elton family opens and manages the property for the National Trust.

Main image ©NTPL/Jennie Woodcock

What to do: Be delighted by the fascinating collection of Nailsea glass.

Take a look at striking examples of Eltonware pottery and explore the delightful terraced garden. Family guide and a children’s quiz trail available.

Standard admission prices: House and garden: £6.30, child £3.

Garden only: £3 Opening dates: 3 Apr–29 Sep 2pm–5pm Open Bank Holiday Mondays.

Find out more: T: 01275 872257 Tickenham Road, Clevedon, North Somerset BS21 6QU

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What to do: A five-minute walk leads to the Bath Skyline, a six-mile circular route encompassing beautiful woodlands and meadows, an Iron Age hill fort, Roman settlements, 18thcentury follies and spectacular views.

Free family activity packs are available throughout the year.

Standard admission prices: £5.25, child £2.95, family £13.45.

Opening times: From 12 Feb. Dates and times vary, please contact for more information.

Find out more: T: 01225 833422 Ralph Allen Drive, Bath BA2 5AH

> flavour > flavour national xxxxxxx trust

Cider making at Killerton Estate in Devon As part of the National Trust’s working holidays, spend a week harvesting over 50 different varieties of apple from the traditionally managed orchards and turn them into the South West’s favourite cider. Using the 19th Century press, you’ll be part of the process from tree to juice. Accommodation is on the first floor of a converted farm building. Running from 1w-8 October 2011, £110.

For more information, call the booking office on 0844 800 3099 or log on to the website: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/workingholidays

Dyrham Park

Tyntesfield

Dyrham Park is a treasure to enjoy; set in a dramatic deer park on the edge of the stunning Cotswold escarpment, near Bath. Discover the beautiful late 17th-century home of William Blathwayt, and explore how fashions have changed over the centuries.

Unveiled for 2011, this extraordinary Victorian estate is ready to explore all year round. Tyntesfield’s house, chapel, gardens and woodland make for an inspiring day of fresh air and discovery.

This year Tyntesfield’s new Home Farm visitor centre is open for the first time too – with a restaurant, shop, exhibition space and family play area.

What to do: Follow the park trails, discover the park and garden Tracker Packs or simply enjoy a guided park and garden walk, keeping a look out for the deer. There’s an open-air theatre in the summer as well as a perry pear day.

Standard admission prices: House, park and garden: £10.50, child £5.45, family £26.25. Garden and park: £4.20, child £2.10, family £9.35. Park only: £2.60, child £1.54, family £6 Opening dates: Starting from 19 Feb. Dates and times vary, please contact for more information. Open Bank Holiday Mondays and Good Friday.

Find out more: T: 0117 937 2501 Dyrham, South Gloucestershire SN14 8ER or SN14 8HY (sat-nav)

Lacock Abbey Set in rural Wiltshire, Lacock village is famous for being the setting of Harry Potter and Cranford. The Abbey, located at the heart of the village, is a quirky country house of various architectural styles. The museum celebrates the achievements of William Henry Fox Talbot, famous for his contributions to the invention of photography.

What to do: Discover the history of the Abbey and newly opened rooms. Enjoy the grounds’ spring bulbs, summer borders and greenhouse. Wander the historic village streets, enjoying shopping and a meal. A full programme of events runs throughout the year.

Standard admission prices: Abbey, grounds, museum and exhibition £10.40, child £5.10, family £26.50.

What to do: Stroll through the woodland for stunning views of the valley. See fascinating objects from the Trust’s largest collection. Take home fresh produce from the working kitchen gardens and relax in the rose garden gazebos. Also, explore the story of four generations of family fortunes.

Standard admission prices: £10.50, child £5.25, family £25.75. Garden only: £5, child £2.50, family £13. £2 off admission when arriving by bicycle, on foot or by public transport.

Opening dates: From 28 Feb. Dates and times vary, please contact for more information.

Find out more: T: 01275 461900 Wraxall, Bristol BS48 1NX

Opening dates: Starting from 19 Feb. Dates and times vary, please contact for more information.

Find out more: T: 01249 730459 Lacock, Nr Chippenham, Wiltshire SN15 2LG

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> flavour the american dream

The burgeoning trend for more informal dining has put comfort food comfortably back on the menu, as Nick Harman reports...

the american dream Maybe it’s a sign of the times, maybe it’s just that people don’t like using cutlery, but the burger is now a gourmet treat

Has burger mania taken over the foodie world? Not so long ago a burger was something to be scoffed shamefully, in secret almost. You could legitimise eating in one of the big chains only by muttering how you were in a hurry, or just needed a simple meal without fuss. You then made critical noises about the destruction of the rain forest to provide grazing for cattle, whilst wiping the fat off your chin and reaching out for the last rather tasty chip lurking in the Styrofoam box.

Now burgers are big news. Twitter is full of burger-stalkers who talk about sightings of new burger places in the way that bird watchers share info on where the Lesser Bustard was last spotted. You’d think that once you’d had one lump of minced meat, grilled and shoved into a bun you’d have had them all, but no.

It’s all about two things – provenance and the grill. Foodies need to know not just the breed of cattle used, but also its name, address and mother’s maiden name. They want to know it lived its short life eating luscious organic grass under clear, pollution-free, skies and that its journey from field to fork was as short as possible.

This alone might not save the planet but in the very least buy it a few more years.

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And then there’s the cooking. You can’t just slap these burgers on a hot plate and then watch them sizzle whilst adjusting your nametag, oh no. The chef has to have a Josper grill or a Robata one. The former, an enclosed charcoal barbeque builds up a heat so intense you can feel your eyebrows crackle when the door’s opened. The heat means the burger exterior is seared and caramelised while the centre stays nice and pink, and it all happens in minutes.

A Robata is a gas fired charcoal BBQ with varying height grills. This means that the meat can be seared on the bottom grill and then moved sequentially up to higher ones for the rest of the cooking. A well-run robata can churn out perfectly cooked burgers with accuracy and speed and the flavour of the meat is perfect. If you don’t have one of these fancy devices, then you can forget being on the burger hot list.

Current must-eat burger place is the Meat Easy in London’s New Cross where many believe you’ll get the very best burger in town. Getting a seat is almost as hard as getting a reservation at Heston’s new place, Dinner.

What next? Probably kebabs. Remember, you read it here first... ■

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia. co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

THE TRAMSHED

Our beautiful new pub opens on Friday 1st April.

To celebrate we are hosting 3 days of pre opening events: Complimentary Menu Tastings for lunch and dinner on 29th & 30th March and our Opening Night Party on Thursday 31st March.

For your exclusive invitation to one of these lovely events please log on to www.thetramshedbath.co.uk register your details and we will contact you to make your booking.

THE TRAMSHED Beehive Yard, Bath BA1 5BD • Tel: 01225 421200 • www.thetramshedbath.co.uk

Mothering Sunday @ Cavendish Mum’s the word on 3rd April as one of Bath’s best loved restaurants offers two courses for £18.50 or three courses for £25.00 Mothers receive a special gift on the day Please quote flavour when booking

A taste of the menu...

Jerusalem artichoke veloute, white truffle and parmesan bubbles, tarragon Compression of guinea fowl and leek, puy lentils, split sherry dressing Rare roast sirloin of Blue Downs beef, traditional accompaniments Short poached, roasted Caldecotts Cotswold white chicken, pressed potato terrine, fine beans, Parma ham, jus roti Triple chocolate and candied walnut brownie, poached pear, tonka bean ice cream Assiette of spiced pineapple and passion fruit

Cream teas £5.50 per person, available 2pm-5pm Monday-Sunday

Sunday Roasts £10.50, available 12pm-3pm and 6pm-9pm every Sunday