Flavour Magazine September 2010

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flavour for people who love local food

Bristol, Bath & South West | Issue 31 | September 2010

james martin the chef who changed saturday morning tV

ÂŁ3 (Where sold)

WIN! A champagne meal for two at Ronnie’s Restaurant!

food from plenty Diana Henry on the art of frugal feasts

Organic Food Festival Our official show guide inside this issue!

Proud media partners of

www.flavourmagazine.com

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The Catherine Wheel 39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR Tel: 01225 892220 Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk

EVENING £25.00 for 3 courses (pre-booked) LUNCHTIME £18.00 for 3 courses (reduced menu available) Crackers included!

Menu available throughout December, excluding Christmas Day and Boxing Day MARSHFIELD MUMMERS Monday 27th December 11am

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Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com

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Editorial Assistant: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Kate Gardner Email: kate@flavourmagazine.com

Welcome to the September issue of flavour!

Debbie Wylde Email: debbie@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker Contributors: Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock, Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.

Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

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Please send any comments or suggestions to the publisher at the above address.

Predicting key autumn trends renders it one of the most important issues of the year within the industry, and by extension, one of the bulkiest. Having produced the official Organic Food Festival show guide which features as a supplement this month, I can confidently say that flavour has, for one month only, something in common with the world’s best-known fashion magazine!

For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print.

We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients.

We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship.

We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed.

For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions.

All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old.

Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability.

Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

If the fly-on-the-wall documentary that followed Vogue’s formidable Editor-in-Chief is to be believed, putting together the September issue is not an undertaking for the faint hearted.

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In Season Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash bring you the best of the season's produce WIN! A champagne meal for two at Ronnie's Restaurant!

Bristol’s Organic Food Festival is one of the largest events of its kind in Europe and celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, a year that promises to be the most exciting to date. In our own celebration of all things green, we’ve been down to Rod and Ben’s farm in Exeter (PAGE 28), finding out the truth behind raw organic milk (PAGE 47) and unearthing some of the New World’s leading lights in organic and biodynamic wine production (PAGE 48).

We hope you enjoy reading this issue and the show guide as much as we’ve enjoyed making them.

12 James Martin The chef who changed Saturday morning TV 20 Food From Plenty Diany Henry on the art of frugal feasts 34 Bistrot Coco A corner of France in the heart of Cheltenham

Happy Eating!

Holly Aurelius-Haddock

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If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month TIGHTEN YOUR BELTS Economists have warned that food price inflation could hit 9% by the end of the year.

It is believed that recent rises of more than 12% of basic commodities such as wheat – up by 60% in the past 3 months – will be passed on to consumers by the autumn.

Over the past year, food prices have gone up by 3%, with prices of potatoes, onions and cauliflowers recording the sharpest rises. High wheat prices caused by poor Russian and Canadian harvests are also expected to push up the cost of meat, dairy products and bread.

VICTORY FOR RONNIE’S!

A ROYAL VISIT

Crowds gathered recently at St Nick’s Market to watch flavour’s resident chef Ron Faulkner (pictured right) go head to head with Berwick Lodge’s Johnny Evans in a new Channel 5 programme called ‘Street Market Chefs’, due to air this month.

The Prince of Wales is embarking on an eco-friendly tour of the UK to promote sustainable living by visiting various green projects around Britain.

Under the watchful eyes of the public and a panel of tasting judges, the two competing chefs prepared a two-course menu of local and seasonal fare in the hope of taking home the title. On eventually being crowned the winner, Ron Faulkner said: “I was delighted, not only for myself but for the whole team as it’s a positive reflection on them too – there’s a real sense of pride whenever we get a good review or win an award like this.”

To celebrate their victory and their 3rd birthday, Ronnie’s are offering one lucky flavour reader the chance to WIN a Champagne dinner for two. To enter, simply email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

HRH will be promoting the START initiative in Bristol, joining shoppers around a special eco-living exhibition in Cabot Circus and meeting community groups including the Bristol Cycle group. He’ll arrive on the royal train, which in keeping with the ethos of the tour, runs entirely on bio-fuel.

www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

WINNERS Congratulations to Caroline Ross from Corsham who has won an overnight stay for two at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Marlow!

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Congratulations to Susan Burton from Bristol who has won a pair of tickets to Love Cooking festival!

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DELMONICO Bristol's stylish venue Delmonico is gearing up for winter parties with its elegant private dining room, offering complete privacy for up to 30 guests. Chef Tyrone Tippins and his team are constantly changing the menus to move with the seasons, based on fresh ingredients prepared simply.

The small, expertly selected wine list includes classic French wines and champagne, as well as more unusual bottles from around the world. The list acts as the perfect complement to the array of Anglo-French cuisine on offer, as well as some more contemporary flavours with American, Asian and Italian influences.

01179 445673 www.delmonico.co.uk

WIN! A YEAR’S SUPPLY OF ORGANIC EGGS!

CHUTFEST A celebration of all things preserved! Swap your homemade chutneys with fellow enthusiasts and taste the delights of Barrington Court’s annual food fair. Visitors can also get in a pickle and enter their concoctions into a competition to win a day with award-winning chutney makers Tracklements.

Promising eggs on your plate within 24 hours and conforming to the highest Soil Association standards, family-run organic company Eggsilicious are fast becoming a household name. Egg lovers will be glad to know that the Wiltshire farm is not only home to happy, free-roaming hens, but also sources quail, duck and goose eggs too!

This year’s Chutfest takes place on 2 and 3 October.

To WIN a dozen organic eggs every month for a year, simply email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

www.eggsilicious.co.uk

SUCK OR CRUNCH? Britain might like to think of itself as the nation that invented good manners, but according to a new study, we’ve shed our traditional stiff upper lip and become a sensual food nation.

A third of Brits admit forgoing cutlery and eating food with their fingers and one in six of us even lick the plate! Researchers also say the way we eat sweets also reveals our character – suckers are strategic and calm, whereas crunchers are impulsive and competitive.

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in season

>Pears The English pear is a real autumnal treat. Our most popular is the tender and juicy Conference variety which is said to take up ninety per cent of pear production in the UK. Other varieties include Williams, Comice, Concorde and Worcester Black.

They are usually picked just under ripe to develop after but they must be eaten ripe as that is the only way you can truly enjoy a pear. They do turn to mush very quickly however so keep a close eye on it! Look for undamaged, slightly firmer pears with russeting on the surface. When ripe it should be mellow and beautifully scented with a subtly granular texture and when you bite into it should cover you in juice.

POACHED PEARS WITH RED WINE, ORANGE AND CINNAMON Serves 4 Place 200g granulated sugar, Âź pint of water and Âź pint of red wine into a pan and stir to the boil. When the liquid reaches boiling point, add the juice of half a lemon, zest of one orange, 1 clove and 1 cinnamon stick. Allow to infuse for 10 minutes on a low heat. Peel 4 pears and put them into a liquid cover with a paper cartouche and cook on a low heat until the pears are just cooked. Allow them to cool in the liqueur.

To serve, core and slice the pears into four lengthways. Serve with ice-cream, or reduce the liqueur to make a sauce.

At their best >Sweetcorn Sweetcorn falls into the category of one of those things that when you eat it fresh from the cob, nothing else will do. Tinned sweetcorn is very handy but could never match up to a boiled and grilled cob smothered with butter and black pepper.

Sweetcorn is a form of maize which has become very popular here in the UK, stemming from Aztec backgrounds. It is harvested fairly young to make sure the kernels are sweet and tender but once harvested quickly deteriorates losing its sweetness, very much like peas. If you can, buy sweetcorn with the husks still on as this indicates freshness. This should be green and firm and the kernels should be firm and tightly packed. Make sure you eat them quickly to savour their sweetness.

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CORN ON THE COB WITH THAI INFUSION Serves 4 Remove all the tough outer leaves of 2 lemongrass as well as the veins from 5 lime leaves and finely chop with 2 red chillies and 30g peeled root ginger until the Thai flavours resemble a paste. Lightly fry in a little olive oil for 2 minutes then allow the ingredients to cool in the frying pan. Plunge the corn into salted boiling water and cook for approximately 20mins (depending on size and freshness). When the Thai flavours have cooled, mix the paste with 150g softened salted butter and a handful of chopped coriander. To serve, remove the leaves from the corn, place in a bowl and spoon on the butter.

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SEARED DUCK BREAST WITH MAPLE SYRUP AND BALSAMIC ROASTED DAMSONS Serves 4 Cut 8 ripe damsons in half and remove the stones and stems, place in an oven tray and sprinkle over 70g of soft brown sugar and 50ml of balsamic vinegar. Cook at 160°C mixing occasionally until the fruits have softened and the liquid has caramelised. Place a non stick pan on the heat, season four Barbary duck breasts on both sides with salt and black pepper and place them skin side down in the hot pan. Cook until golden brown then turn over the duck breasts to seal the other sides. Drain any access fat, brush with maple syrup then place them in a pre-heated oven and cook at 180°C to your liking. Remove the duck breasts from the pan and allow them to rest. To serve mix 10 shredded basil leaves with the damsons. Spoon 4 halves on each plate, slice the duck breast and arrange on top of the damsons and drizzle with the balsamic jus.

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>Damsons Damsons are at their best at the end of August through to September. They have a vibrant dark blue to almost indigo colour and are often very juicy. However, damsons are very sour and because of this aren’t really eaten raw but yield a deliciously sweet flavour when cooked. They can be quite versatile and are most commonly associated with jellies, jams, chutneys and also make a great substitute for sloes in a homemade Damson gin. When picking look for firm and juicy fruits and treat like most other soft fruits. They can be kept in a fridge for a couple of days but make sure you give them a good wash before you start to utilise this wonderful ingredient.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.

Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right now >Marrow The marrow has never been one of those fashionable ingredients. If, like us, you grow courgettes you may know all too well that if you blink, you suddenly have a glut of oversized marrows on your hands and even your neighbours won’t relieve you of them! On their own these large summer squashes may be a touch bland, but it’s all about how you treat them. They have a wonderful texture when roasted so to add a bit of flavour try stuffing them first. Another way to savour them is in wonderfully spiced marrow chutney which you can enjoy all year round. Look for firm, weighty marrows with undamaged skin. Larger marrows have tougher skin and so like other members of the squash family store well in a cool, dark spot.

ROASTED MARROW WITH A PORK, APRICOT AND TARRAGON STUFFING Serves 4 Finley chop 1 onion and 1 garlic clove and fry in a little olive oil until soft. Put to one side and allow to cool. Top and tail, then peel 1½ kg of marrow and scrape out the insides.

In a frying pan, gently brown the outside of the marrow whilst turning it a little at a time until golden brown. In a bowl, mix 500g of minced pork, 100g of dried apricot, 1 egg, 70g white breadcrumbs and a small bunch of chopped tarragon with a large pinch of salt and pepper. Remember to add in the cooked onion and garlic. Fill the marrow with the made stuffing, making sure it is packed in well. Season the outside of the marrow with a little more salt and place in an oven tray to cook at 160°c for approximately 40mins. To serve, allow the marrow to rest for 5 minutes then slice into four and serve with dressed salad leaves or a nice sauce.

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fab foodie reads

fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

THE STUDENT COOKBOOK SOPHIE GRIGSON

COOKING WITH THE MASTER CHEF MICHEL ROUX JR

It’s coming to that time of year again when students will be packing their bags and leaving home for the not so bright lights of university lecture theatres and shared kitchen cupboards. If like most, you’re worried that your beloved will be relying on take out menus and a bulk purchase of penne pasta, then renowned TV chef, Sophie Grigson is here to help.

The Student Cookbook combines delicious tasting, simple recipes with expert tips and easy to follow guides. This book assumes no prior cooking experience, giving invaluable advice from chopping an onion to what pans you need for what job, providing the foodie student with everything they need to know for a lifetime of delicious dishes, without a pizza box in sight.

Michel Roux Jr, renowned chef and presenter-judge on BBC’s MasterChef: the professionals, has now released the eagerly awaited Cooking with the Master Chef. This delicious cookery book is a compendium of his favourite recipes, demonstrating his vast knowledge and experience on every page. Michel has a justifiable reputation for knowing everything there is to know about food, how it should taste and how it should be cooked and as the chef-proprietor of the award winning Le Gavroche restaurant in London, it is not hard to take influence from this master of food in your own kitchen.

BILL’S BASICS BILL GRANGER

BAKE-A-BOO BAKERY COOKBOOK ZOE BERKELEY

Bill Granger, the hugely popular Australian food writer, television chef and restaurateur has worked his renowned magic on over 100 of his favourite classic dishes, bringing them effortlessly into the 21st century. Bill’s Basics is a cheat’s guide to making the recipes that every home cook wants to master. Bill has simplified techniques, minimised fussy ingredient lists and given these core dishes a modern twist that’s in tune with our busy lives and our passion for fresh and healthy flavours. Enjoy lazy breakfasts to late night suppers to delicious chocolate brownies. We think this will have you cooking from cover to cover.

The London based bake-a-boo bakery has become a local favourite for those looking to indulge in the ultimate sweet treat. For those of us who can’t make it to the country’s capital for a moment of dessert delight, bakery owner Zoe Berkeley has shared some of her tasty secrets in this, her first cookbook, so we too can recreate her renowned sweets in the comfort of our own home. This gorgeous book presents a wide range of themed tea party menus and decoration ideas to inspire any party or event.

Chose from classics such as a traditional Victoria sponge to the more adventurous taste of pumpkin and chocolate. Also included is a selection of gluten. Wheat, sugar and egg free treats.

Collins, £12.99

Quadrille, £25

Weidenfeld & Nicolson, £25

Spruce £14.99

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Allington Farm Shop We’ve just discovered this award-winning, family run farm shop on the outskirts of Chippenham in Wiltshire, specialising in some of the finest locally produced food around. As well as home reared meat, home made cakes and pies, home cooked hams and home grown potatoes there’s a huge range of other Wiltshire produce on sale including local honey, cheeses, chutneys and pickles, ice cream, meringues, seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables and much, much more.

Farm & Cottage Holidays Families, couples, groups and pets are all welcome – be inspired by this collection of self-catering holiday accommodation in our favourite places across the South West. Choose between rural and coastal, big ones and small ones, dog-friendly and eco-friendly, and many more...

Allington is open 7 days a week so don’t delay in dropping by!

T: 01249 658112 W: www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk

T: 01237 426280 W: www.holidaycottages.co.uk

flavour THIS MONTH’S MUST DO, BUY & SEE...

Collette’s Cupcakes Whether you're looking for a little piece of nostalgia or just a special treat, these delicious cupcakes are freshly made every day in Bristol. Each little treasure is lovingly decorated by hand and delivered to your doorstep – cupcakes are also available in mini or giant size on request.

Flavour reader offer – free delivery on orders of 12 cupcakes.

s e oL v

T: 07528 342196 W: www.collettescupcakes.co.uk

The Kitchen, Lusty Glaze Beach Named as one of Europe's finest beach bars, it's nestled in a small cove on the North Cornwall coast. We've been daydreaming of the stunning coastal scenery and al fresco beach dining, with laid-back beach events and acoustic gigs.

There are watersports at the nearby Adventure Centre, so visitors can choose to join in with the action or relax with a cocktail or a coffee.

T: 01637 879709 W: www.lustyglaze.co.uk

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The Fox at Broughton Gifford Head Chef David Waine has created a seasonal, British inspired menu, with some classical touches. We love the big, secluded garden and real West Country ingredients. The Fox is working hard to establish its new vegetable garden, fruit trees and home-reared pigs and chickens. Just 10 miles from Bath's city centre, we'll definitely be dropping in for the famous Sunday lunch and a pint of local ale.

T: 01225 782 949 W: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk

Munch Deli’s Finca la Fany coffee A dark chocolaty cup with champagne acidity. This slow drip filter coffee from El Salvador is very special. Just one of the tasty products that you can find at Munch Deli, a new deli café opening on Saturday 11 September in Clifton.

Whisper ‘Flavour Loves’ in Lucy’s ear and she’ll make you a free cup (one whisper per customer by the end of September!)

T: 0117 925 0251 W: www.munch-deli.co.uk

Exmoor Walking Festival Enjoy Exmoor flora and fauna at The Autumn Walking festival this 1st-4th October. Guided walks vary in distance and theme – find a deer rut with Exmoor rangers or follow the West Somerset Railway track during the Autumn Steam Gala.

This year the festival has teamed up with the Exmoor Food Festival – six of the guided walks include some delicious local produce in glorious surroundings. The ticket price even includes a stop off for lunch or a cream tea!

T: 01271 863001 W: www.exmoorwalkingfestival.co.uk

The Tantivy In the heart of the beautiful Exmoor town of Dulverton lies The Tantivy, a traditional, family run shop and café steeped in the heritage of this gateway to Exmoor National Park. It serves delicious teas and coffees yearround and sells a tantalising range of local favourites including cider, clotted cream and traditional sweets.

T: 01398 323465 W: www.tantivyexmoor.co.uk

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james martin

Is it fair to say your debut in the kitchen was younger than most?

It was an earlier start than some. Like most chef's training I started out on the pot wash until I was 8, when I got my first whites and a set of knives – I still have the knives.

How did you come to cook for the Queen Mother?

I was working at Castle Howard and they used to have a lot of famous people visiting the house. I remember it was a rack of lamb followed by a dessert of strawberries, ginger ice cream and meringue in the shape of a swan.

Do you think spending time in France is a rite of passage for professional chefs?

It is to some degree but it's not as important as it used to be as restaurants in the UK and elsewhere have significantly raised the bar. The opportunity to travel has also become easier for people so it gives young chefs more choices than I had.

Ahead of his visit to Bristol for next month’s Love Cooking Festival, we talk with our favourite face of Saturday morning television...

Tell us about Hotel du Vin, was the concept your idea?

No. I was pastry chef of the Chewton Glen at the time and the head wine waiter had the idea of a boutique hotel where I would have free rein on the food. The idea was to use the bistro as a shop window to get people through the door and therefore into the hotel – it worked incredibly well from day one.

10 questions with…

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james martin

We’re missing a trick by looking at food from abroad when we have such an abundance of great producers here but just don’t give them the support they deserve.

You seem to lean more towards British cuisine, has that always been the case?

It's always been a subject close to my heart. I was brought up on a farm and still try and help local producers from the UK. I think we're missing a trick by looking at food from abroad when we have such an abundance of great producers here but just don’t know it or give them the support they deserve. These people have taken hundreds of years to forge their craft and once gone it will never return.

Do you miss the day-to-day buzz of a working kitchen?

I still have restaurants and cook four to five nights a week for charities, functions and large dinners. I haven't stopped cooking it's just the goal posts have moved. When my TV career is over, I'd like to buy a pub and just cook on the stoves doing what I love.

Of all the people you've had on Saturday Kitchen, who would you pick as a permanent co-host?

Michel Roux Senior, he's a legend and a great friend.

What advice would you give to a fellow celeb chef before going onto Strictly Come Dancing?

It's not as easy as it seems! Think of the hardest day's work you've done in the kitchen, double it and it still won't come close to the amount of effort required.

What can we expect from the Love Cooking Festival?

As a brand new festival everyone is really excited about it – I think it has potential to be more interactive than some of the other shows I do.

What do you think strikes people most when they meet you for the first time?

My height – 6 foot 3 certainly doesn’t look it on the small screen in your living room!

You can see James Martin demonstrating alongside Valentine Warner and Thomasina Miers at the Love Cooking Festival at the Colston Hall. For more information, visit www.lovecookingfestival.com

ROASTED GROUSE WITH POTATO, CELERIAC AND PARSNIP ROSTI I’ve been lucky enough to go grouse shooting up in Scotland. Or rather, the grouse were lucky, as I couldn’t hit a barn door! It’s a good job my butcher has grouse in stock otherwise I’d never make this dish. The season runs from the start of August to the start of December, making this the ideal autumnal game recipe.

Serves 4 Ingredients 4 grouse 2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 50ml Marsala or other sweet dessert wine 200ml red wine 1 sprig of thyme, leaves only 600ml beef or chicken stock 25g butter

For the rosti 200g celeriac 2 parsnips 2 medium baking potatoes 2 sprigs of thyme, leaves only 4 tbsp thick crème fraiche 2 egg yolks 3 tbsp olive oil 50g butter Salt and black pepper Method 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400° F), Gas 6.

2 Season the grouse well with salt and pepper and put the onions inside the cavity of each bird. Set a roasting tin on the hob over a high heat, add the olive oil to the tin, along with the grouse, and fry on all sides to seal and brown. Transfer to

the oven and cook for 20 minutes. Baste the grouse from time to time with the oil while it is cooking.

3 Meanwhile, peel and grate the celeriac, parsnip and potato. Wrap in a clean tea towel and squeeze to get rid of any excess water, then tip into a large bowl, along with thyme, crème fraiche and egg yolks.

Mix well and season with salt and pepper, then divide the vegetable mixture into heaps of about 2 tablespoons and shape into 7.5 cm patties of about 2cm in height.

4 Add the olive oil and the butter to a nonstick frying pan set over a medium-high heat and, when the butter has melted, add the vegetable patties to the pan. Cook slowly turning over after 3-4 minutes and cooking for the same amount of time on the other side.

5 Remove the grouse from the oven and allow to rest. Pour away the fat and set the tin on the hob over a medium heat.

Pour in the Marsala, the red wine and the thyme, and stir with a wooden spoon to deglaze, loosening and incorporating any sediment from the base of the tin. Add the stock, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer to reduce the liquid by twothirds. Stir in the butter and season to taste with salt and pepper.

6 Place one grouse on each plate, spoon over the sauce and serve with the rosti on the side.

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Sponsored by

11-12 September 2010 Bristol Harbourside

Just as nature intended Celebrating 10 years as Europe’s largest organic event

This year’s Organic Food Festival offers families and food lovers more than ever before...

Over 150 Organic Food Producers • Celebrity Chef Demos • Live Bands • Livestock • Kids Taste Experience • Gorgeous Health and Beauty Products • Organic Gardening • Fabulous Fashion and Textiles.

Tickets only £5 Children and Soil Association members go FREE!

Visit www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk for more information

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hazelwood house

hazelwood house Once upon a time, Nick Gregory visited Hazelwood House, deep in Devon’s unspoilt woodland…

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hazelwood house

Whether it be an early morning stroll before the prepared-to-order breakfast, or a late afternoon jaunt down to the water preceding a G&T in the drawing room, the stunning grounds will put you in the mood for whatever comes next.

Having witnessed a great beauty in Hazelwood House and its grounds in 1988, three inspired ladies embarked on a remarkable journey to transform a vacant and tired estate in South Devon into a place of reassuring calm and tranquillity.

Janie, Gillian and Anabel’s story is a long and magical one and not a fairytale I could do justice to within these pages. However, ask any one of ‘The Three Musketeers’ about Hazelwood House’s rebirth and they will probably tell you, “Hazelwood happened not because of us, but despite us.” A modest sentiment and not one I agree with, at all.

Hazelwood is, you see, all about these three and the hundreds that have resided here because of them - esteemed musicians, championed artists and published authors and who come to this place because it has been made into somewhere and something very special indeed.

The 67 acres of wilderness that the house and its cottages resides in promise a ruggedness that will excite any lover of the outdoors, complete with atmospheric boathouse set aside the picturesque river.

Whether it be an early morning stroll before the prepared-to-order breakfast, or a late afternoon jaunt down to the water preceding a G&T in the drawing room, the stunning grounds will put you in the mood for whatever comes next. Your dog will enjoy the walk too, with Hazelwood welcoming the well-behaved companions 16

on site.

Carol, the Musketeers’ very own D’Artagnan, met my companion and I on arrival and immediately made us feel at home. But this is not your ordinary home and nor is it your run-of-the mill hotel.

There are no phones or trouser presses, there is no room service and there is no bar.

Not everyone’s cup of tea admittedly, nor did I ever think it would be mine. However, once you step through the front door and immerse yourself in the ambience, it’s difficult not to be blown away by the experience.

There is an air of the old colonial about Hazelwood. You can imagine yourself a member of the landed gentry, if only for a couple of days. Cut yourself off from the world if you like, but equally you’re only a stone’s throw from Dartmouth, Salcombe and Dartmoor, while surf’s up at Bigbury Bay and Burgh Island if that’s your thing.

There’s plenty for youngsters to do aswell.

Hazelwood will furnish you with all the information you need and, whether it be an outing to Pennywell Farm or a trip to Paignton Zoo, the bundles of fun will not get bored.

Twenty-six year old head chef Chris Scantlebury has created a daily-changing menu that covers most bases and one that definitely satisfies the palate. Using locally sourced produce and homegrown herbs and vegetables wherever possible, you can but go right whatever your order.

On the first evening I enjoyed pan seared scallops in a lime a coconut sauce, a dish both refreshing and unusual, but certainly a hit. This was followed by a local rack of lamb with dauphinoise potatoes and roasted vegetables. Again, a big success, leaving me barely enough room for a rhubarb and lemon mouse with shortbread biscuits.

On the second evening, I devoured a smoked salmon terrine followed by roasted duck and mashed potatoes. A meringue with cream and summer berries finished me off on that occasion.

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hazelwood house

The staff are all unfalteringly polite, friendly and helpful in making sure everything is to your satisfaction. You’re a world away from home here, yet you’re made to feel like you’ve just returned. You can come and go, potter about, shoot the breeze or fall asleep on an armchair with a good book.

I would love to talk about the wonderful licensed chapel and the bat sanctuary on site, the sister hotel in the Orkneys, the charity the ladies run and the island they own. I would like to sing the praises of the chef more and describe the comfortable rooms and stunning views across the valley.

I would like to furnish you with a selection of the stories The Musketeers regaled, the number of workshops and weddings and artistic geniuses that have entertained in these grounds, but some things really are best experienced first hand.

There’s a charm at Hazelwood House that I’m afraid I’m just can’t put into words. It’s sole aim is to ‘enrich, enhance and encourage’ and it does that with bells on, ensuring all the while that everyone’s time here is bespoke to them.

Hazelwood House Loddiswell Nr. Kingsbridge S. Devon TQ7 4EB 01548 821232 www.hazelwoodhouse.com.

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food from plenty

food from plenty As well as writing for many magazines, including House and Garden, Sainsbury’s Magazine and Waitrose Food Illustrated, Diana Henry was also named Cookery Writer of the Year by the Guild of Food Writers in 2007 and 2009 for her work in The Sunday Telegraph’s Stella magazine. This month Diana talks about her new book Food from Plenty, a book that combines the pleasure of eating and a healthy respect for sustainability.

Brimming with Irish charm and enthusiasm, Diana Henry takes a moment out from pressing deadlines and playful children on a rainy day in the school holidays to let us in on the inspiration behind her new book.

Despite appearances Diana did not start her career in the food industry, but instead spent many years as a successful television producer. Becoming a mother convinced Diana to stop the long hours and weekend work and devote her time to her first born son: “It was a big decision, but I just couldn’t leave him anymore. It seemed like a natural transition to move into food writing. I knew a lot about my subject already, not through formal study but just by soaking it up.”

Inspiration for Food from Plenty has come from 10 years of home cooking, recipe collecting cultures and cooks from all over the world, not to mention the hours spent on the London underground putting together ideas in a little black diary, which she still has today. “Growing up with women cooks formed the backbone of my cooking.

Cooking forms a bond amongst women as they have traditionally done all the cooking.

There is a goulash recipe that was given to me in Italy by a mother. Every time I cook it I think of her and whether she might be cooking it at the same time for her family.”

It’s no secret that current food culture relies

This is the quintessential British never-fails-to-please pudding. It’s also sensible, by which I mean that it isn’t expensive and it is a great vehicle for celebrating gluts of fruit.

The only thing to remember is that your fruit must cook to tenderness in the time it takes the crumble to become golden. So, when your fruit is particularly unripe, it’s a good idea to cook it slightly in advance.

Serves 8

heavily on convenience. In these beautifully illustrated pages, Diana seeks to conquer this with ease and minimum cost. “I wanted my book to give a sense of connectedness with the earth, reconnect people once again with raw ingredients, with producers and to cook from scratch once again.”

This book is more than a recipe book but a collection of stories, inspirations and love that we too can adopt and place proud amongst our kitchen cook book selection.

It’s safe to say that if any cookbook will stay with you for a lifetime, this will be the one.

Be prepared for Sellotaped pages, sticky finger marks and the odd carrot peeling. 

Cooking forms a bond amongst women...

There is a goulash recipe that was given to me in Italy by a mother. Every time I cook it I think of her and whether she might be cooking it at the same time for her family.

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APRICOT, PEACH AND BLACKBERRY CRUMBLE

Ingredients 600g (1lb 5oz) apricots, quartered and stoned 3 peaches, stoned and sliced 400g (14oz) blackberries finely grated zest of ½ and juice of 1 lemon 150g (5½oz) caster sugar 150g (5½oz) plain flour 125g (4½oz) ground almonds 175g (6oz) butter, chopped 30g (11⁄4oz) flaked almonds 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Put the fruit and lemon juice and zest into an ovenproof dish and stir in 40g (1½oz) of the sugar. To make the crumble, mix the flour, remaining sugar and the ground almonds together and rub in the butter until the mixture turns crumbly.

2 Put the crumble on top of the fruit, scatter the flaked almonds on top and bake for 40 minutes. The top of the crumble should be golden and the fruit tender (insert a small, sharp knife to test for this). If your fruit is still a bit hard but your crumble is already golden, cover the top with some foil to stop it getting too dark and bake a little longer.

3 Leave to cool a little and serve with crème fraîche or whipped cream.

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food from plenty

APRICOT AND ALMOND UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE One of my favourite cakes, with a good balance of sweet and tart that really makes the best of apricots, especially those that are lacking in flavour or are underripe.

Serves 8 Ingredients FOR THE APRICOTS 50g (1¾oz) butter, plus more for the tin 125g (4½oz) caster sugar 7–8 fresh apricots (not too ripe) halved and stoned 1 tbsp runny honey

4 Gently heat the honey. Using a pastry brush or spoon, glaze the top of the cake.

The honey will run down the sides to give a lush, homemade look. Leave to cool completely. The cake is lovely with crème fraîche (you can sweeten it slightly) or a mixture of sweetened Greek yogurt and double cream (no need to whip).

FOR THE CAKE 150g (5½oz) unsalted butter 150g (5½oz) caster sugar 2 eggs, beaten 100g (3½oz) plain flour 1½ tsp baking powder 100g (3½oz) ground almonds 1 tsp vanilla extract 125ml (4fl oz) full-fat milk 1 Butter a 20–23cm (8–9in) cake tin and prepare the apricots. Put the sugar and 75ml (2½fl oz) water into a small saucepan.

Heat slowly until the sugar has dissolved.

When the sugar has completely melted bring to the boil and watch until the syrup starts to turn to caramel (it will turn golden first). Swish the pan a bit. Once it becomes caramel (you will know by the smell and colour) take immediately off the heat and add the butter. Stir once the butter has melted. Pour into the tin and place the apricots, close together and cut-side-down, on top. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

2 To make the cake, cream the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy, then add the eggs a little at a time, beating well after each addition (add a couple of spoonfuls of flour to the mixture if it starts to curdle). Sift together the flour and baking powder and stir in the almonds. Add the vanilla, then the dry ingredients, alternating with the milk. Spoon this batter over the apricots and bake for 50 minutes. When the cake is cooked, a skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean.

3 Run a fine knife between the cake and the tin and invert on to a plate. If some apricots have stuck to the tin, carefully replace them on the cake.

Good food made from the plentiful, the seasonal, the leftover...

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ALSO TRY… Making this with plums: Red-fleshed ones are particularly good for their great colour, or try greengages. You will need to use more or less of these depending on the size of the fruit. If you use red-fleshed plums, make a glaze with melted redcurrant jelly mixed with a little water for a nice shine, instead of honey.

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food from plenty

SALSA MISH MISH Mish mish is the Arabic for apricot and the fruit is adored in the Middle East and North Africa. You will see it not only in puddings, but in sweet-and-sour meat and poultry stews such as the tajines of Morocco or the khoresht of Iran. Sometimes an apricot sauce is served alongside lamb or chicken and I so like the combination that I wanted to make the sauce into a preserve. This is what I came up with, a kind of Middle Eastern-flavoured relish. It is particularly lovely with a leg of lamb that you have marinated in yogurt and crushed garlic for 24 hours before roasting.

Makes 2 x 450g (1lb) jars Ingredients 2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, roughly chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 red chillies, deseeded and cut into slivers 4cm (1½in) cube of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped ½ tbsp crushed coriander seeds seeds from 10 cardamom pods, crushed 5cm (2in) cinnamon stick 150g (5½oz) dried apricots, roughly chopped 350g (12oz) fresh apricots, halved, stoned and chopped 300ml (½ pint) white wine vinegar or cider vinegar 250g (9oz) granulated sugar 4 tbsp roughly chopped coriander leaves (optional) 1 Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pan and sauté the onion over a medium heat until soft and pale gold. Add the garlic and all the fresh and dried spices and cook for another 2 minutes, until the spices release their fragrance. Now add all the other ingredients, except the sugar and coriander leaves, and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about 15–20 minutes, until the fruit is soft.

3 Now add the sugar and stir from time to time to help it dissolve. Continue to cook until the mixture is thick. It has cooked enough when you can pull a wooden spoon across the bottom of the pan and it leaves a channel before closing again. Discard the cinnamon stick.

4 Stir in the chopped coriander if you want to use it (it does discolour slightly over time, but it tastes great). Spoon the relish into hot sterilized jars (see page 242) and seal. (You need to use non-metallic lids that you are sure will not react with vinegar.) I find this relish is better when it’s relatively fresh, so I generally use it up within about 3 months.

Keep it in the fridge once opened.

‘Food from Plenty’ is available at all good bookshops.

Published by Mitchell Beazley.

RRP £25 21

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JOIN! Why not come down and visit Green Park to become part of our thriving community?

Where else will your butcher know your name, your florist ask how your cat is and your meal be made from produce grown by the farmers trading outside? You can also join the Green Park mailing list for regular news, competitions and offers – follow @GPS_Bath on Twitter or join our Facebook page: Green Park Station- Bath

SEE The beautiful backdrop of the original Victorian station with its signature Bath stone façade, make it worthy of a visit in its own right as well as being a popular venue for local events.

With regular Bath Fringe Festival performances, sitespecific theatre and dance and recently host to the Bath Cooler Festival, Green Park Station really is a thriving platform for life and culture in the heart of Bath.

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With all that shopping, you’re sure to want refreshment – Green Park Brasserie offers quality food & drinks, using local produce where available. Or grab a takeaway Fairtrade coffee and local organic burger from Green Park Express, stopping off at The Thoughtful Bread Company, our ethical baker, as well.

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The Station also plays host to a range of retail residents – Hackett’s Men’s Hairdressing, Station Antiques, Framecraft, Artist Colour and Green Park Leather & Luggage.

From haircuts to handbags there’s something for everyone!

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SHOP Green Park Station’s Saturday Market is renowned for its diverse array of local farmers, traders and eco-artisans. Fresh local produce can be found at the Bath Farmers’ Market (8.30am – 1pm). Trading alongside, from 9am – 5pm, are a range of independent market stalls selling products from flowers to vintage clothes, fine art to quirky second hand wares. If Saturdays aren’t your cup of tea why not try Green Park Friday (first Friday of every month).

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Discover Green Park Station – the sustainable heart of Bath

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COMPETITION WIN! A pair of tickets to see Ainsley Harriott at Love Cooking, the Colston Hall Bristol on Tuesday 5th October. For your chance of winning join our emailing list. Email gps_bath@ethicalproperty.co.uk stating your name, and contact telephone number.

Winners will be drawn on the 27th September.

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columnist martin blunos

A ROYAL FEAST After dining like a West Country king, Martin Blunos is back to tell us how it's done...

Recently I worked on an event a little closer to home in Bristol; a dinner for the Prince’s Trust held at the Marriott Royal Hotel on College Green. Hosted and organised by the West Country’s very own Peter Rowell with the food being cooked by a band of salubrious characters and the Marriott’s resident team led by James Martin, the event was a true West Country showdown.

Daniel Galmiche from Harvey’s Restaurant put together a starter of pressed ham hock terrine with pickled girolles and baby leeks.

He didn’t take too kindly to my description of his dish: “spam with boiled long onions and toadstools in vinegar.”

The Tanner brothers, Chris and James, brought 16 kilos of fresh white crab meat up from Plymouth to make a memorable fish course. Despite its everlasting impression, I am struggling to remember the dish’s name, needless to say however it truly was ‘gert lush.’

My chosen main was lamb shoulder topped with crispy breast of lamb and a wickedly decadent sauce of gently reduced cooking liquor. There was also a fair selection of canapés, plenty of bubbles and a delicious cheese course thrown in as well as a middinner auction of foodie goodies.

No show would be complete without a celebrity so Popstar’s Darius swanned in at the witching hour after a flight from

Edinburgh (where he had performed earlier in the evening) and after a limo journey up the tarmac hit the stage, singing along to the backing track of his hit ‘colourblind’, much to the delight of the ladies present. Surprisingly,

this didn’t do much for me – I got more out of the ice cold bottles of beer that graced each hand.

Sadly I couldn’t get James’ so here’s my own recipe for a classic lemon tart... 

NOT JAMES’ LEMON TART Ingredients

For the pastry 300g plain flour pinch salt 200g unsalted butter, cubed 100g icing sugar, sifted 3 egg yolks For the filling 3 medium lemons, zest and juice (no white pith) 6 large eggs 250g caster sugar 225ml double cream pinch salt Method For the pastry: 1 Pulse the flour, salt and butter in a food processor until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add sugar then egg yolks and pulse again until it comes together to form a dough.

Tip the dough out onto a floured work surface, press together to form a disc, wrap in cling film and chill for 2 hours.

2 Preheat the oven to 180°C / gas mark 4 and place a 23cm flan tin on a baking sheet. Roll the pastry out. Line the flan ring with the pastry, trim off any overhanging pastry. Chill for 10 minutes before lining with greaseproof paper and baking beans, then bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown around the edges.

Remove the beans and paper and bake for a further 5 minutes to ensure the base is completely cooked.

For the filling: 3 While the pastry is blind baking, beat the eggs, salt and sugar together until smooth, then gently stir in the cream, lemon juice and zest until combined (don’t whisk otherwise you’ll end up with air bubbles in the custard).

4 Turn the oven to 170°C / gas mark 3.

Pour the filling into the tart case and bake for 40 minutes, or until the custard has just set. Leave to cool completely before removing the tart ring.

Do not store in fridge, this tart is best eaten the same day and at room temperature – alone it is king but with a dollop of clotted cream it’s the business.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

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kitchen garden

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kitchen garden This summer has been fantastic for our harvest. Our soft fruits – the raspberries, tayberries and mulberries – have all done really well, as have the potatoes, peas and beans. Every year is different and it’s been fantastic to have some sunshine on the gardens in the last few months; the crops have flourished and there have been fewer pests and diseases.

Head chef Sam Moody and I talk a lot about the things I grow and how he can use them.

He has some great ideas and plenty of enthusiasm. After all these years I know the sort of things chefs want and tend to grow these as standard, but will add in new and unusual crops both of my own choice and

WHAT TO SOW: We are getting ready to plant autumn onion and shallot sets as well as garlic which will be planted a little later in November.

from their suggestions. Being open to ideas from each other keeps it an enriching exchange.

Our kitchen garden is not a huge space so produce that goes a long way is always good value. We have raised beds which maximise the crop yield as you can grow more intensively. We also try and get two crops out of each bed and try to grow things which can be cropped time and time again, such as chard. The chefs often have fun picking when I’m not around and it’s not unusual to come back and find an entire bed gone!

The autumn harvest is looking glorious – we have lots of pears to look forward to as well as apples, quince, sweetcorn, pumpkins, butternut squash and a very exciting odd Italian squash, Rugosa Fruiliana, the most ugly looking variety that’s packed with a wonderful flavour.

For me the challenge is keeping up with the chefs as their preferences change as they

kitchen garden

This month Jane Moore, head gardener at the Bath Priory offers her seasonal tips for harvesting and growing in September.

FORK TO FORK LUNCH – THURSDAY 23 SEPTEMBER Discover more about the relationship between the garden and the kitchen with a guided tour of the gardens with Jane. Afterwards, move into the kitchens for a glimpse of the chefs working with the produce as they incorporate the ingredients into your lunch menu. £50 per person to include morning coffee, two course lunch by Michael Caines, glass of wine and coffee.

Please call 01225 331922 to book.

introduce new menus and follow current food trends. Sam has lots of interesting ideas on how to use the produce and dining here is always a great experience as a result. 

WHAT TO PICK NOW: Runner beans, beetroot, chard, courgettes, rocket and other salads.

Look out for fresh herbs like dill, coriander, tarragon and marjoram as well as turnips, main crop potatoes, carrots and tomatoes. Also, there’s some fantastic fruit about such as apples, blackberries and figs.

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Clarissa Dickson Wright

This month Helen Aurelius Haddock takes a hike North of the border to Edinburgh to talk to Clarissa Dickson Wright about her latest book Potty.

ClarissaDicksonWright I met Clarissa amid a flurry of paperwork, a verbal joust with the owner of the establishment over a delivery of an octopus and a deferential conversation with one of her many admirers. Aptly chosen, we met at Edinburgh’s Valvona & Crolla, a place that every shopkeeper in the land should visit as a shining example of how to seduce the public into buying good food.

At 63, it seems she has no plans to retire.

Her next book The History Of English Food showcases her not only as a cook, but as an astute food historian with an encyclopaedic knowledge of her subject coupled with a voracious appetite for discovery. Her research however, has been wholly devoted to reading after a recent tussle with Wikipedia and Who Wants To Be A Millionaire? “Never trust the Internet,” she advised, “I had to ring and tell them that Alexander Armstrong was not my cousin. Of course they apologised profusely.” Who wouldn't when corrected by this Grand Master?

Her latest foray into the culinary arena is Potty, a collection of dishes that need just one pot to cook them. The idea itself has an immediate appeal in the frenetic British lifestyle so many of us lead. Recognising that not all of us have the space or time we need, she quickly rose to the challenge and used her extensive repertoire and flavour palette to create a jaw-dropping collection of dishes that would grace the best of tables for any occasion.

Admittedly, ‘the pot’ has been used as a concept in some of the recipes. Pastry cases, tin mugs and whole vegetables are garnered to form vessels to encase a host of mouth-watering food. Influences of Spain, the West Indies and Malaysia are infused into the dishes, providing a spiceladen backdrop to some of the other more traditional British fare. The resultant dishes range from dumplings to dfeena, paella to pies, and tofu to tarts.

Inevitably we then strayed into the minefield where Clarissa so boldly likes to tread – her distaste for supermarkets. Importation of food instead of supporting British producers, tracking welfare and quality of food on our own turf, a desire to see the countryside prosper and the poor treatment and payment of farmers, were the reasons she cited. Only Waitrose escaped her scathing criticism by a whisker on the farming front and Starbucks were even praised for saving our dairy industry by only serving British milk.

In her time, Clarissa has owned her own bookshop in Edinburgh and run the 26

Her next book The History Of English Food showcases her not only as a cook, but as an astute food historian with an encyclopaedic knowledge of her subject. infamous Books For Cooks in London. She is amazed at the sheer volume of cookery works that are produced every year. Like owning a language CD, she opined that people love to fantasise over mouthwatering food shots and recipes, and, as if by some magical osmosis, they too will be able to cook it.

There are plans for more books, and she hinted at a desire to write a novel.

Scheduled television appearances are adding up as well. She will be teaching Michael Ball to cook, describing him as ‘an awfully nice chap you know’, and taking part in a series called The Great British Food Revival. Others will follow, but are still in their early planning stages. It seems that CDW is about to enter a Renaissance period of her own. Well deserved for one so capable in food related matters.

So, whether you decide to get back to basics with her Primordial Soup or indulge yourself with the Tablet and Cheshire cheese pie, her latest culinary treasure is most definitely one for the kitchen book shelf, destined to be lovingly splattered with evidence of its regular appearance by your side in the kitchen.

Good food, fewer dishes. Yet another winner on all sides from Clarissa.

‘Potty’! is available at all good bookshops.

Published by Hodder & Stoughton. RRP £20

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Rod and Ben’s

Rod and

Ben’s From vital vegetables to dainty Dexters and hearty soups Rod Hall, owner of Bickham Farm in Devon certainly knows a thing or two about organic country living, even despite a few sniggers from the neighbours...

Any spare moment in my childhood was spent on my eccentric neighbours’ farm.

I worked hard and it kept me out of trouble, making me aspire to have my own one day. When the time came, it was run down and needed a lot of work. I think people underestimate how much effort goes into growing your own food, or indeed 28

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Rod and Ben’s

Unfortunately organic food appears to cost more. In reality, it is the real cost of the food.

into agriculture as a whole. It can be very rewarding but a constant challenge.

bird seeds and support plenty of amber rated birds, which is the RSPB coding for the species. We also have countless walks and take plenty of visits from local schools.

my first two cows at The Devon Show about seven years ago and from there I’ve built the whole heard. The cows are easy to manage as well as the beef being exceptional.

You have to have a very different mindset with organic agriculture; there are no quick fixes with a spray of a chemical. You really have to plan what you’re doing and know the soil really well. I don’t think you ever crack this type of industry, even though the knowledge I have now is far greater and I am more confident, you will always be at the mercy of the elements.

Nature is in control, not you.

Supporting local organic growers, increasing our soup menu and getting better at growing veg is all on the agenda going forward. But really, who knows what the future has in store for me? That’s the great thing about this business, no two days are the same and I wouldn’t have it any other way. 

I began the business with Ben, a friend I met in agricultural college. Neither of us had any experience but both of us believed in the principles behind organic farming and knew that’s where we wanted to be.

Since then, Ben has moved down the road to another farm. An opportunity came up for him to begin a yurt farm and it would have been crazy if he didn’t take it, farms just don’t come up very often. He supplies our eggs for the veg boxes and we’re still very good friends.

The organic industry has taken a hit since the recession, there’s no doubt about that.

Unfortunately organic food appears to cost more. In reality, it is the real cost of the food.

Even though we’ve noticed a cooling down of our vegetable box sales, we are always finding new markets for the soups. It’s quick, easy and fits with people’s lifestyles.

The wildlife we have in the farm is fantastic. We leave large margins for wildlife to forage in headgerows, we have

My Dexter herd get a lot of ridicule from other farmers! They are the smallest English breed, with Irish origins. I bought

Rod and Ben’s Bickham Farm Kenn Exeter Devon EX6 7XL 01392 833833 www.rodandbens.com 29

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long shelf life

As the last of the series, Helen Aurelius Haddock takes a closer look at the culinary classics that should be adorning every cook’s bookshelf...

LONG SHELF LIFE...

Collecting cook books can become a bit of an excessive habit, with one ingredient books very often appearing on the kitchen shelf as favourites. Fortune has smiled, as Lindsey Bareham has produced three excellent books covering the Holy Trinity of vegetables: potatoes, onions and tomatoes.

rich meat patties and of course the infamous fish cake. The perfect chip becomes a reality, banishing soggy homemade offerings from the domestic kitchen forever and we also discover that bread made with potato is surprisingly lighter than its wheat based counterpart.

Part of the books' enduring quality are their faithful bibliographies. In an era of the effortless Google search, it’s a comforting reminder of a time when all this information was hand gathered, like a harvest, collected into one place to be safely stored for others.

In this she has been dutiful, with no stone

Onions Without Tears profiles the entire onion family, from Nigella to Chinese chives, garlic to sand leeks. It's all in there, begging you to shed a tear over their preparation. Popular prejudice is pushed aside here too. Leeks are served raw, garlic is roasted, absenting itself from the

Sceptics might contend that like a wartime ration of margarine, the choice of recipes has a self-limiting appeal and is thinly spread. In fact it is quite the opposite. left unturned. The Food Lords have all been consulted: Fanny Cradock, Elizabeth David, Madhur Jaffrey and of course Delia Smith are but a few who are mentioned in this august roll of honour.

Sceptics might contend that like a war time ration of margarine, the choice of recipes has a self-limiting appeal, and is thinly spread. In fact it is quite the opposite. If it’s a potato cake you want, there is a choice of at least a dozen or more, from potato only to

lingering smell and taste so often used as an excuse for avoidance, onions become sweet as honey with no added sugar and we discover that chives will turn eggs rancid in just thirty minutes. So no garnishes in the egg sandwiches for the school trip please mum.

There is a welcome chapter on dealing with gluts of tomatoes, citing a myriad of ways to preserve them in sauces, chutneys and even jams. Tomato combos are explored, giving a

choice of marrying them with bread, rice, pasta and pastry, with other recipes allowing meat and fish to take centre stage while tomatoes subtly enhance the overall flavour.

Short of physical count, it would be impossible to calculate the sheer number of recipes encapsulated in these modest paperbacks, but it must run into thousands, enough to satisfy the voracious appetite of the most ardent cook. I have owned mine for nearly 20 years and am still wading my way through them, with new dishes appearing daily on the Haddock home menu.

However, in the end it always pays to be discerning, even when seduced by such an enticing array of goodly fare. As a postscript, Lindsey cites a menu seen on her culinary travels in the West End that included ‘garlic and honey ice cream’.

Suffice to say she had the presence of mind not to include the recipe here and for that, I will always be grateful to her! 

A student of Bristol University back in the ‘70s, Helen has since exchanged her life in the West Country for the sunnier climes of Western France. You can follow her culinary musings across the Channel on her blog: www.haddockinthekitchen.wordpress.com 31

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THIS SUMMER AT LUCKNAM The Brasserie for stylish and contemporary dining. Using locally sourced fresh ingredients, our executive chef Hywel Jones has created an innovative 2 course set menu for ÂŁ16.

Available Monday to Friday, 12 to 3pm.

And available every evening 3 course set dinner menu for just ÂŁ27 per person.

For reservations please call 01225 740575.

Lucknam Park, Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777 reservations@lucknampark.co.uk www.lucknampark.co.uk

Orangery Restaurant

A fresh dining experience! The classic Orangery glass domed ceilings and walls allow guests to take in the glorious estate views whilst enjoying fine food. All meals are freshly prepared using ingredients that are seasonal.

Fresh & locally sourced often from the Tortworth Estate Farm Shop. Complimentary glass of house wine with this flyer.

at Tortworth Court Four Pillars Hotel

For bookings and further information call

01454 263000 tortworth@four-pillars.co.uk www.four-pillars.co.uk/tortworth

Tortworth,Wotton-under-Edge, South Gloucestershire, GL12 8HH

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hook and son

The raw truth behind raw milk…

As one of our most overlooked modern conveniences, perhaps it’s time we rethink our attitude to the white stuff – raw milk farmers Phil and Steve Hook certainly think so...

Before 1864 it was normal breakfast etiquette to find a plump glass bottle full of creamy, fresh milk sat on the kitchen table from an obliging milker found in your own backyard; nothing added, nothing taken away, just milk in its purest form. Then came the industrial revolution and the discovery of the pasteurisation process, which very quickly put a stop to that.

Many sadly, consider going organic a lifestyle choice for the rich and eco chic.

Yet it was only a few generations ago that this cultural label was replaced by the simple and effective term ‘normal’. Never before has it been considered so remarkable to walk into your backyard, fill a pail of milk and head back into the kitchen to serve it up.

Where people were once so in touch with their food, nowadays it seems consumers are feeling lost to a marketplace of misleading labelling, convenience foods and supermarket price wars. A need to reconnect to the earth is a pressure felt by most.

Two champions of natural products are Phil and Steve Hook from the family run farm Hook and Son in East Sussex. This organically run farm specialises in raw milk – milk that has not been through the

The people who do know why raw milk is different will go to the ends of the earth to get their hands on it. pasteurisation or homogenisation process.

When milk has been pasteurised, it has been heated to a very high temperature and then quickly cooled with the intention of killing the bad bacteria. With that, the process also sees off all of the good bacteria, and the digestive enzymes required to break down the protein and lactose in the milk.

Homogenisation is the physical smashing of the milk’s fat particles into smaller particles. The reason for this is purely cosmetic as people aren’t too keen on seeing a creamy film, which forms at the top of the bottle. This way, the colour is consistent and the appearance isn’t as offputting.

Whilst the health risks were certainly not unfounded before pasteurisation, today the story is different. In the UK brucellocis is eliminated from all herds, and tuberculosis is rare in most parts of the country. Hook and Son are proud of their Hailsham Herd, established in 1959, which has always been TB and brucellocis free.

Out of a lengthy list of benefits, raw milk is high in vitamins, full of healthy bacteria such as acidophilus and seems to also have a protective effect against asthma and allergies in children. Steve Hook says, “Most people think all milk’s the same, but the people who understand why raw milk is so different will go to the ends of the earth to get their hands on it.”

The jury still seems to be out with a final verdict but untreated milk is certainly making a comeback and people are glad to be able to feel reconnected to the land once more. You simply cannot raise a healthy cow on anything but healthy pasture. The giant dairies who keep cows on concrete and feed them grains and soya are not worth considering so for us, the best place to start is with Hook and Son. Test is in the taste.

T: 01323 449494 W: www.hookandson.co.uk 33

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bistrot coco

Bistrot Coco If ‘loose lips sink ships’ then it could be curtains for Michelin starwinning Marcel Frichot’s Bistrot Coco, because word is spreading fast about this juvenile gem in the centre of Cheltenham…

Fortunately for him and his excellent staff however, the mounting gossip on the grapevine is good, in fact it’s very good. In the late 1990s, Marcel became proprietor of the Elms Hotel in Worcestershire, a stunning 18th Century country house. By 2001 he made his mark in Cheltenham, buying a former cinema that is now a landmark restaurant, The Daffodil. The creation of Bistrot Coco is a personal project to bring traditional French cuisine to town, which officially opened for business in March of this year.

Marcel’s philosophy has always been to make quality, yet simple French food accessible to all without the ferocious tug at the purse strings. An unhurried threecourse meal for two here, with a generous amount of wine to boot, will set you back less than you’d probably spend going to watch the latest 3D blockbuster accompanied by a tray of tasteless nachos and a watery Coke. And that really is the beauty of the place, because the food you are paying for is worth twice the asking price.

The snails I ordered as a starter were fantastic (the mess I made on my shirt less so) and it arrived with a basket of fresh, warm bread, ample enough for my little fellows and my companion’s moules marinières – also a big hit.

I then plumped for the fillet of beef with a side order of homemade chips and a peppercorn sauce. The beef was perfectly 34

cooked and the chips were a treat. The one option I would lose in future however, was the sauce. The meal just didn’t require it.

My companion’s fish of the day was a mackerel accompanied by a side of cous cous and I’m informed it was as fine as it looked.

A choice of three desserts is not many but it didn’t need to be. My chocolate fondant with ice cream was the perfect end to the meal (along with a glass of Muscat), while the crème brûlée on the other side of the table was also a sight to behold. Luckily my companion had eaten too many mussels and I swiftly polished off the remains.

The wine list is simple and inexpensive, yet all have been selected with great authority and care. My beef and snails were perfectly matched with a large carafe of Vin de Pays d’Oc Merlot (£8.30) while the other half had a small carafe of Vin de Pays d’Oc Sauvignon Blanc (£4.50).

Tim our waiter could not have been friendlier, while Jamie, the maître d'’, was a bundle of enthusiasm and talked about Coco as if it were a favourite son. It’s refreshing to see people at work and, to all appearances, enjoying themselves. It looks and feels the part too, but then you wouldn’t expect anything less given Marcel’s background. Bistrot Coco demonstrates perfectly that you don’t have to spend a week’s wages to have a memorable meal out. Hats off (and napkins on) to Marcel and his crew. 

Bistrot Coco 30 Cambray Place Cheltenham GL50 1JP 01242 534000 www.bistrotcoco.co.uk

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bistrot coco

An unhurried three-course meal for two here, with a generous amount of wine to boot, will set you back less than you’d probably spend going to watch the latest 3D blockbuster.

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The Scallop Shell, Whiterow Farm, Beckington, Frome 01373 831641 www.thescallopshell.co.uk info@thescallopshell.co.uk

Traditional Fishmonger Seafood Deli Home Delivery Cookery School

“This place is a gem”

The freshest fish available in the shop or delivered to your door. info@thescallopshell.co.uk

The Times Top 10 UK Fishmongers, July 2010 Brand new home delivery service to Bath & surrounding area.

Visit www.thescallopshell.co.uk to order.

Special Offer for Flavour Magazine readers: Join our newsletter by emailing info@thescallopshell.co.uk quoting Flavour101 & we’ll include 2 complimentary homemade fishcakes from our best selling range in your first home delivery order

BANNATYNE’S

CHARLTON HOUSE SOMERSET

Set in the heart of the Mendips, Charlton House is the perfect setting for a relaxed dining experience.

Indulge in our expertly crafted locally sourced menus, created by our Executive Head Chef Duncan McKay and his brigade.

Serving Lunch and Dinner daily in the Restaurant.

Our drawing rooms and gardens are a great setting for Cocktails, Afternoon Tea or Light Bites with friends.

For Reservations please call 01749 342 008

Shepton Mallet | Somerset | BA4 4PR T 01749 342 008 | F 01749 346 362 enquiries.charltonhousehotel@bannatyne.co.uk www.bannatyne.co.uk

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ask a chef

Ask a chef onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s Restaurant in Thornbury. Ronnie has had a distinguished career working in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as the Good Food Guide’s ‘Restaurant of the Year’.

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Ronnie Faulkner

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Q. What’s the secret to a perfect poached egg? Claudia Walker, Cotham A. Fresh eggs! You cannot cook a perfect poached egg with old eggs. Bring some water to simmer, add a tablespoon of vinegar which helps the white to remain firm. Crack the egg into a small ramekin and pour the egg gently into the simmering water. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes and gently lift from the water, drain and serve. Do not stir or whisk the water and do not add the eggs while the water is boiling rapidly. Use a little finesse and it's actually quite easy.

Q. I want to serve my French dinner guests some English wine, what’s likely to go down well?

Giles Robinson, Clifton A. My favourite producer in the UK is Camel Valley. I remember being given a bottle a couple of years ago and thinking 'thanks a bunch' but I was blown away when I finally opened it. The nose is fresh with a grassy character coupled with a floral note and the palate is softly floral, clean and fresh coupled with soft ripe fruit. You can find Camel Valley Bacchus 2009 in Great Western Wines for £12.70

Q. Can you recommend an easy starter that will still impress my wife? James Doodson, Bath

Q. What's a summery alternative to a Sunday roast? Paul Womar, Hanham A. It's not the joint that should change to accommodate the warmer weather but the garnish. Try serving your Sunday roast with a warm salad of summer greens tossed in a vinaigrette and using new season potatoes in the skin, gently boiled and rolled in parsley butter. The sauce should be light too.

Make your gravy the usual way from the caramelised meat juices on the bottom of the roasting tray, but whisk it into a light, fruity vinaigrette instead of thickening it.

If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com

A. Insalata Caprese, or tomato and mozzarella salad – it's simple Italian food at its best and won't take more than five minutes. Be sure to use vine ripened tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella (it's the closest we get to fresh mozzarella in this country) and a good quality extra-virgin olive oil. Slice the tomatoes and mozzarella and arrange on a plate alternating them to make a circle. Season with salt and freshly milled pepper, drizzle with the fruity virgin oil and finish with a few leaves of torn basil.

Q. Does it matter what kind of wine I use in cooking? Hannah Little, Cheddar A. ‘Yes’ is the simple answer. White wine is often used to give soft acidity while reds are used to give body and richness. Always reduce the wine to remove the alcohol and find a wine you enjoy drinking while you cook with it. You’ll soon notice how a spicy Shiraz adds quite a different note compared to a budget Merlot.

T: 0800 849 4455 W: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

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reader review

R E D A E R

REVIEW

ROCKFISH GRILL & SEAFOOD MARKET

BY CATRIN GRIFFITHS, PORTISHEAD Dodging the British summer downpour, a warm smile greeted us when we arrived at the Rockfish Grill. We were swiftly taken to our table, a booth next to the window. From the classic crisp white tablecloths and padded leather seats, to the selection of charming photos of fisherman with their catch of the day that adorned the walls, the décor oozed character.

The renowned local chef, Mitch Tonks, owns the restaurant and his passion for seafood is clearly reflected in the menu. A variety of tempting dishes were available to choose from including two types of oysters, smoked eels and Cornish lobster. The wine list was extensive, offering most wines by the glass and included local ales and cider. We opted for the Prosecco Rustico, which was delicately dry and lightly sparkling (£5.50 per glass).

Delicious smells greeted us from the open kitchen while we examined the menu. We decided on two courses for £15 from the lunchtime menu, both choosing the Megrim

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sole with anchovy and capers. It was without a doubt the best sole I’ve ever had.

A generous portion cooked in butter to perfection, with the fish effortlessly falling from the bones. Sweet new potatoes smothered in butter accompanied the sole.

The caper sauce was the ‘icing on the cake’, with the vinegar in the sauce bringing out the sweetness of the fish. Not many words passed during the main course, as every mouthful was savored, and for two Welsh women that was quite a triumph!

After the success of the sole, I couldn’t help feeling a little disappointed with our chosen dessert, the summer berries, meringue and cream (£5). The ingredients were clearly fresh and the strawberries were delicious and sweet, but there could have been a few more of them. While the meringue in parts, was quite hard and extremely chewy.

That aside, I was really impressed with the Rockfish Grill and thoroughly recommend seafood lovers to sample their delights immediately! 

Rockfish Grill & Seafood Market 128 Whiteladies Road Bristol BS8 2RS 01179 737384 www.therockfishgrill.com

Tell us about your favourite place to eat by writing to us at the usual address or emailing faye@flavourmagazine.com We’ll even give you one year’s free subscription for your troubles!

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perfect day

The quest to organise your dream event might seem an impossible task, but after searching high and low we’ve discovered that perfection is not so hard to find...

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a perfect day

Cotswolds88 Hotel and Restaurant

of the region’s prime venues for unforgettable events, whether it’s “ onea bespoke wedding, corporate banquet or black tie social affair ” Tucked away in one of the timeless side streets of Painswick you will find Cotswolds88, one of the gems of the county’s historic country hotels.

In its three years, it has established itself as one of the region’s prime venues for unforgettable events, whether it’s a bespoke wedding, corporate banquet or black tie social affair.

The 18th Century Palladian house with panoramic views over the surrounding Cotswolds countryside has been extensively altered by a succession of architects, including the famous Detmar Blow, whose descendants still live on the family estate near the town. In 2007 it was given a £4m refurbishment and makeover by a top international interior designer who gave it its unique cutting

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edge modern style. And, to back up the boutique style, the head chef is none other than internationally renowned Lee Scott who has cooked for such A-List celebrities as Tom Cruise, Madonna, Eddie Murphy and Jim Carrey. The hotel now boasts four AA stars and two AA rosettes for its restaurant, the highest that can be awarded on an initial inspection.

The hotel has already been rated one of the 60 top new hotels in the world by Conde Naste Traveller, the independent traveller’s bible.

Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, traditional Sunday roast, and the ultimate afternoon tea.

T: 01452 813688 W: www.cotswolds88hotel.com

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Clavelshay Barn

Clavelshay Barn offers the ideal venue for a simple country wedding in a beautiful, natural setting. The delicious food is fresh and local and the service is very personal, offering the perfect option for a tailored wedding that won’t cost the earth.

Even though Clavelshay do not have a license to marry, they can hold a blessing or humanist ceremony in the grounds. Choose from cream teas or sit down menus to evening buffets and hog roasts, with drinks tailored to what you want.

Marquees are also available for hire from simple tents, perfect for the more rustic style wedding, to larger marqees with a few more details.

perfect option for a tailored wedding that won’t cost the earth

”

T: 01278 662629 W: www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk

Lusty Glaze

Lusty Glaze offers the perfect venue for a beautiful wedding reception, birthday party or corporate event. Surrounded by stunning coastal scenery and breathtaking views, you can watch the sun go down in magnificent style all in the comfort of your own private sandy cove on the North Cornwall coast.

Whether it’s a wedding or a birthday party, you can hire out your own marquee or even take over the whole beach to a menu catered to your own wishes. Beach games and activities can be arranged, keeping kids and grown ups entertained at all times too!

T: 01637 872444 W: www.lustyglaze.co.uk

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Kings Weston House

House prides itself on its reputation “ KingsofWeston first class service and entertainment �

Celebrating its 300th birthday this year, Kings Weston House is the perfect venue for bespoke events. Offering experience, traditional values and excellent service Kings Weston House prides itself on its reputation of first class service and entertainment befitting such a grand venue.

The impressive three-storey Portrait Gallery offers a spectacular welcoming entrance and is an ideal room for reception drinks. The Great Hall, a

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unique room which houses a spectacular suspended staircase offers a breathtaking entrance for a wedding or civil partnership and the superb acoustics make it a perfect room for evening musical entertainment. The Vanbrugh Room, a beautiful light and airy room with views across the Severn estuary, is the largest dining room and can cater for 120 people dining as well as being a popular choice for conferences.

Whatever the room you choose, Kings Weston House offers the opportunity to hire it individually as well as on an exclusive basis for both private and corporate events. All the catering at Kings Weston House is provided by our in-house team of experienced chefs offering you a tailor-made menu to suit your taste buds.

T: 0117 938 2299 W: www.kingswestonhouse.co.uk

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The Berwick Lodge Event Experience

Set in 15 acres of secluded woodland and garden, Berwick Lodge provides a stunning and unique location for your wedding or conference, offering a totally bespoke service to make your event truly special.

help create your own special wedding menu. Weddings can take place within the beautiful main house and dining rooms or in an adjoining marquee. The venue hire includes private use of Berwick’s 10 luxury en suite bedrooms.

Berwick’s tailor-made wedding service includes a personal menu consultation with Head Chef Chris Wicks, who will

For a conference venue with a difference, Berwick has opened the new Mews Conference Suite which offers a

Topline Catering

flexible range of space including a large ground floor conference area or a separate private room on the first floor which is ideal for select business meetings or small conferences.

T: 0117 958 1590 W: www.berwicklodge.co.uk

Mortons House Hotel

With an extensive range of menus from finger and fork buffets to banquets and barbecues, there is something for everyone. Plenty of friendly advice and suggestions are available for every aspect of your event.

Experienced chefs and staff ensure everything runs smoothly and your guests are properly looked after, leaving you to enjoy the occasion. We’re passionate about the quality and provenance of our ingredients, sourcing seasonal produce from local suppliers.

Whether you’re planning a large gathering or a small family occasion, we’ll suit your budget and taste to help make your event a memorable experience.

Mortons House Hotel is an enchanting 16th Century Manor in the picturesque village of Corfe Castle, in the heart of the Isle of Purbeck. The World Heritage status of its ‘Jurassic’ coast, together with beautiful beaches, stunning countryside, history, geology, and wildlife make it a ‘must-see’ location. The Elizabethan Room is an ideal suite for a romantic stay, with a beautiful antique four-poster bed, original fireplace, spa bathroom and lounge area. The 21 room hotel and restaurant have received a string of awards, including ‘Small Hotel of the Year’ from South West Tourism.

T: 01275 333308

T: 01929 480988

W: www.toplinecatering.co.uk

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Nibbled Catering Nibbled Catering specialise in bespoke catering for all occasions and can suggest exciting ideas for menus and events whilst taking into consideration your requirements, including your theme, budget or occasion. Nibbled offer a full catering service and can organise marquees, venues, flowers, china, cutlery, glassware, linen and waiting staff as well as a fully licensed bar. Their freshly prepared, locally produced and seasonal foods are a huge hit. So whether you have a wedding or corporate event in mind, they can assist you by providing a professional service with delicious food to be remembered.

“ a professional service with delicious food” For a free quote please contact Theresa on 01225 851072 or email hello@nibbledcatering.co.uk

Taste Buds Catering

Bringing high quality food and excellent service to your event is priority. Head chef Marco will create your menu with fine dining expertise, and is committed to using locally sourced produce where possible with access to the finest quality ingredients.

Catering for all occasions from intimate dinner parties to larger winter weddings and corporate events, you really can sit

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back and relax safe in the knowledge that Taste Buds will take care of all of your catering needs. Taste Buds also offer exclusive private chef hire service where they will come out to your home and treat you and your guests – even doing the washing up afterwards!

T: 01172 309897 W: www.taste-buds.co.uk

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restaurant “ bringquality to your

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Lettuce & Lovage Catering

Lettuce & Lovage was set up by Jo Trendall, a Bristol-based restauranttrained foodie, to raise the bar on outdoor catering events. She teamed up with two chefs equally passionate about using the freshest produce from locally sourced suppliers to bring restaurant quality to your perfect event. So if

you’re looking for a catering company that will tailor-make a five course menu for a beautiful wedding, or simply require a caterer for a humble dinner party, they know how.

T: 0117 985 6767 W: www.lettucelovage.co.uk

Lockside

On the edge of the Avon Gorge, with great views of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, Lockside is an ideal venue for birthday parties, civil partnerships, weddings, corporate events or just an excuse to get together. It can cater for any special occasion up to 75 people.

Tailored around you, your celebrations will be with your party exclusively and will be exactly as you want them to be.

Perfectly intimate for that private dining experience with tailor-made menus and personalised service, it's an ideal venue for a special day that you and your guests will always remember.

T: 0117 9255 800 W: www.lockside.net

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Mount Somerset Hotel

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hotel promises you “ this stunning an event to remember

The Mount Somerset Hotel is situated in the most tranquil of locations amidst beautiful countryside with easy access to the A358 and the M5. The newly and beautifully restored function rooms offer a touch of opulence for any occasion.

Enjoy the elegant furnishings; stunning views and warm atmosphere as the dedicated staff work hard to ensure your

Folly Farm Folly Farm is a stunning 250-acre nature reserve close to Bath and Bristol that’s owned and managed by Avon Wildlife Trust. In recent years, the Trust successfully restored the unspoiled 18th century buildings with the help of the Heritage Lottery Fund, Biffaward and the South West Regional Development Agency. Amongst others, facilities now include farmhouse accommodation, a multi-use reception space and a conference centre.

wedding and party “ avenue for all seasons

”

So whether it’s birdsong and wildflowers in spring and summer, apple trees and golden leaves in autumn or wood smoke and wide skies in winter, here’s a wedding and party venue for all seasons.

T: 01275 331590 W: www.follyfarm.org

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experience is a special one. Renowned for its excellent cuisine, whether it’s for an intimate dinner for two or a family of up to 72 people, or indeed a corporate event for up to 100, this stunning hotel promises you an event to remember.

T: 01823 442 500 W: www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk

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wine offer

on the grapevine This month, flavour is celebrating two New Zealand wines showcased at this year’s Bristol Wine and Food Fair with an exclusive reader offer.

Tony Wellings of Catalyst Wine Services spent the last two summers touring the country and promoting his finds from around the world. His latest discoveries include two wines from New Zealand – O:TU Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from the world famous region of Marlborough, and Mount Rosa Pinot Noir 2008 from further South.

O:TU was voted Winestate Magazine’s best Kiwi Sauvignon in 2008.

This small sub-region of Marlborough, in the Awatere Valley where the Sauvignon Blanc is produced has a longer, cooler growing season than elsewhere producing wines of elegance and complexity, with a mineral finish not that dissimilar to Sancerre.

Don’t just take our word for it though. Only in its fourth vintage, the producer has already won Gold Medals in Japan and Sydney as well as being voted Australian Winestate Magazine’s best Kiwi Sauvignon in 2008.

For New Zealand reds, Pinot Noir is fast coming to the fore. The Mount Rosa estate was created ten years ago when Jeremy and Guy decided to give up sheep farming.

It turned out the southerly latitude, steep sided valleys and fairly high altitude, provided ideal conditions to produce this notoriously difficult to grow grape.

This Pinot Noir exudes redcurrant and wild exotic fruit aromatics, followed by a warm, rich and spicy texture with lively acidity, freshness and a lasting finish.

Great for those cold nights ahead…

flavour has teamed up with online retailer Smithfield Wines to offer readers a mixed 6 bottles (3x75cl of each wine) for a price of just £70 delivered to your door. That’s a saving of £7.96 (over 10% off normal retail) plus the normal £6.50 delivery charge that does not apply.

Go to www.smithfieldwine.com and click on the Flavour Magazine Offer icon.

Enter the promotional code FLAVOUR1 and order your half case today!

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forging the new world

forging the new world Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

‘Organic’ and ‘sustainability’ are two wellknown buzz words of the moment. Despite many traditional practices in the winemaking industry, many vineyards have been re-examining their methods and adapting a more eco-friendly way of working. This isn't because it's trendy to do so, but because the growers claim it enhances the flavour of their wines. Given the double digit growth that the organic wine market has seen over the past few years, there must be some truth in their statements as the UK public keeps coming back for more!

Organic certification basically means chemical-free farming – including no fertilisers. In the wine industry, a type of organic farming known as ‘biodynamic’ is another current buzz word which goes way beyond organic farming alone. Biodynamic farming involves balancing the relationship of the soil, plants and animals with as little external input as possible to maximise the environment in the vineyard. Incredibly, it goes as far as working with lunar and cosmic cycles to ensure the plants are producing the highest quality grapes possible.

With a nod to Bristol’s Organic Food Festival this month we are focusing on a range of such organic wines. Bonterra wines are based in Mendocino in California and their vineyards and winemakers live and breathe the organic way of life. In their words, ‘following nature’s timetable’. As one of the first major vineyards in the region to commit to organics and the first to receive the Soil Association accreditation, their expertise in this area has paved the way for other wineries to follow.

Tasting the wines, it’s easy to see how the years of experience have translated into fantastic tasting products. The Bonterra Organic Viognier is delicious – an elegant, aromatic wine with classic apricot flavours.

A great alternative for Sauvignon Blanc lovers. Try it at the enchanting 16th century Manor House Hotel in Moreton in Marsh with their goats’ cheese starter. The wine is perfect for cutting through the richness of the food without overpowering it. www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/ property/the_manor_house_hotel

A different style of white wine from the range is the Bonterra Organic Chardonnay.

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Not as heavy on the oak as some Australian or Burgundy Chardonnays, there is a delicate balance between oaky vanilla flavours and lots of citrus and tropical fruit. This wine needs some more robust food to match up to it such as pork belly with truffle pomme puree. You can find this in the award-winning restaurant at Chiseldon House Hotel, a beautiful country house set in the stunning Marlborough Downs just outside Swindon. www.chiseldonhousehotel.co.uk

A Californian range of wines wouldn’t be complete without the region’s star grape – the Zinfandel.

Bonterra Organic Zinfandel is a great example of classic characteristics – deep purple in

colour, rich and spicy with plum and blackberry flavours. Not as heavy as the powerful Bordeaux reds, this is a lovely partner to rich game dishes, including duck.

Try the pan roasted duck breast with orange and cranberry sauce at the Bluebird Restaurant in Lymington, all wooden beams and homemade dishes tucked away down a little cobbled street on Lymington Quay. www.bluebirdrestaurant.co.uk

A great example of the more powerful style of red wine is the Bonterra Organic Merlot. The wine spends over a year maturing in oak barrels which gives it robust flavours of chocolate, spice and black fruits. Roasted red meats are key here to stand up to the luscious flavours and rack of lamb with Cumberland sauce could well be the perfect pairing – especially when enjoyed in a good old fashioned inn full of character like the Old Church House Inn in Torbryan, Devon. Find a quiet corner and tuck in. www.oldchurchhouseinn.co.uk

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Although Fetzer’s vineyards in California does not have organic status, they are no less committed to the sustainable farming cause. Their investment in renewable energy is testament to this – 100% of the energy used within the winemaking process is generated from sources such as solar and wind.

Laid back doesn’t begin to describe the attitude – it’s about interfering as little as possible along with recycled water and glass to support the environment whilst making some great tasting wines.

The Fetzer Pinot Grigio is unsurprisingly popular with the enormous growth trend in this grape’s sales in the UK. Light and crisp, with pink grapefruit, apple and lime – a great summer choice. The trick with Pinot Grigio is to keep the food simple and not too heavy or the wine will be lost. You can’t go wrong with a bowl of mussels and some bread to mop up the juices – and where better to experience this than the fun loving, surf themed restaurant Hot Rocks on Bournemouth Pier. They have a great selection from both the Fetzer and Bonterra ranges along with a ‘coastal cuisine’ inspired menu which just begs for some serious experimentation! www.hotrocks.com

When you’ve finished at Hot Rocks, make your way round the corner to Ocean Palace Chinese Restaurant. Rich Chinese duck dishes need floral aromatic whites to partner with and Fetzer’s Sauvignon Blanc is definitely up to the challenge. Try the classic crispy duck pancakes with Hoisin sauce and I’m sure you’ll agree! www.oceanpalace.co.uk

Fetzer’s Shiraz Rose is bang on trend for the growing sales of drier, refreshing rose wines. A lovely deep colour and lots of fruit flavours makes this a great wine to drink alone or with food. At super-smart Lanes Restaurant and Wine Bar in Weymouth’s historic harbour you can do either. Why not try a mixture of tapas dishes such as chorizo, chilli and garlic king prawns and bruschetta with a chilled glass. www.lanesweymouth.co.uk

forging the new world

Above: panorama of biodynamic vineyard in Sonoma, California

Our last wine – but by no means least – is another Merlot, from Fetzer, made in a different style to the Bonterra Merlot. Soft and subtle, the result is a fruit driven wine which goes beautifully with slighter lighter red meat dishes, creamy sauces and mushrooms. Try the beef medallions with mushrooms and truffle mash at the Old Bank Brasserie and Bar in Swindon – a great combination to enjoy while listening to one of the bar’s live jazz nights perhaps. www.tobb.co.uk

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Sleight Farm

Say

Cheese!

This month, we’re looking forward to the Great British Cheese Festival and celebrating the very best cheeses from across the UK. Here are some of our favourites…

Situated high on the hills overlooking Bath and Bristol, Sleight Farm’s herd of goats was established in 1976.

Production is seasonal – the goats graze all summer, and are fed hay in the winter.

Most of the milk is used for the production of Tymsboro, a lactic curd cheese inspired by traditional French cheeses.

During the summer months other cheeses are produced, notably Old Ford, a matured hard goats’ cheese reminiscent of Mediterranean cheese.

01761 470620

The Great British Cheese Festival returns to scenic Cardiff Castle for another year. It’s the largest UK cheese show and a cheese lover’s dream with over 450 British and Irish cheeses on offer.

Not only do you get to taste and buy from this magnificent selection but visitors can really get involved by creating their own champion cheeseboard in the Hall of Champions, and playing cheesy games including Cheese Skittles and Cheese Tossing!

The Great British Cheese Festival is at Cardiff Castle on the 25th-26th September. www.greatbritishcheesefestival.co.uk

Tymsboro This raw milk cheese has a silky smooth texture, breaking down a little at the edges. Its lemony and nutty flavours are creamy in spring and autumn, and more intense in summer.

Caws Cenarth Cheese Established in 1987, the Welsh cheeses have won more than 40 major awards including three times Soil Association Supreme Champion and three times Best Welsh Cheese at the British Cheese Awards. Visitors are welcomed to visit the family’s organic farm to view the cheese-making from the special gallery.

01239 710432 www.cawscenarth.co.uk

Golden Cenarth A mild, but complex washed rind miniature cheese presented in its own wooden container. Winner of Soil Association Dairy Class 2010 - wonderful as an oven-baked starter for two.

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Cenarth Perl Las A blue-veined cheese with a rich, creamy texture. The mellow and distrinctive flavour makes it a perfect choice for the cheeseboard. Try it melted on a sirloin steak.

Cenarth Perl Wen A soft, white rinded cheese with a very creamy texture and a delightful aroma and flavour. A big favourite in Wales.

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Bath Soft Cheese At Park Farm. Kelston, halfway between Bath and Bristol , Graham Padfield has 160 organic Friesian cows.

As well as the original Bath Soft Cheese, his family make a range of cheeses including the delicious ‘Wyfe of Bath’. This old fashioned large, basketshaped cheese has this year, won Gold at the Royal Bath and West Show, and Gold at the International Cheese Awards, Nantwich.

01225 331601 www.parkfarm.co.uk

Bath Soft Cheese This marvellously soft, gooey and flavoursome cheese has a mushroomy coat and a dreamy interior. This cheese is made to an ancient recipe dating back to the time of Admiral Lord Nelson, who’s recorded as receiving a gift of two Bath Cheeses from his father in 1801.

Wyfe of Bath Succulent and bouncy, this semi-hard cheese is redolent of buttercups and summer meadows. Wyfe of Bath takes its name from Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales and, like the tale, when you cut into a Wyfe of Bath you will see, smell, and taste that true beauty lies within.

Butlers Farmhouse Cheese Cheese-making has been in the blood of the Butler family for three generations – today it’s in the capable and enthusiastic hands of Gillian Hall, granddaughter of Richard and Annie who started the dairy in Lancashire in 1932.

Cow’s milk comes from the family’s own farms on the doorstep of the dairy whilst Gillian’s niece, Nicola manages the families herd of 1000 cheeky goats which live a couple of miles down the road at Sheardley Fold Farm.

Blacksticks Blue A unique soft blue veined cheese with a distinctive amber hue, it reveals a delicious creamy smooth yet tangy taste. Adding perfect colour to any cheese selection, it’s an upbeat British classic truly different to other blue cheeses.

Ravens Oak Goats’ Cheese A smooth and soft goats cheese, made in small rounds rather like a Camembert. Handmade in small batches, this distinctive cheese offers a subtle flavour of almonds and white wine, developing a greater depth as the cheese naturally matures.

Creamy Lancashire cheese Mild and creamy in taste, this is a very versatile and popular everyday Lancashire cheese.

Handmade at Inglewhite Dairy in the traditional way, each cheese is cloth bound and matured for three months.

01772 781500 www.butlerscheeses.co.uk

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chef profile

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chef profile

chef profile

Name: Christian Abbott Originally from: Warwickshire Head Chef: Banglo, Bath

My style of food hasn't changed since I was Head Chef at the Graythwaite Manor Hotel in Cumbria. I still have the same level of passion here that I’ve had in all my other jobs, I just had to incorporate a style of cooking that suits our current clientele but also something that gets new customers intrigued and shows off my food. Everything is fresh, seasonal, modern and British here.

I moved to Bath for the access to fantastic produce such the beef from Ashdale Farm, which is some of the best I have ever used.

It’s tender and always of a consistently high quality. Although not strictly from the West Country, I’m also a fan of micro herbs too – red amaranth being a favourite. It tastes of beetroot and is the same colour. Micro coriander looks very pretty on the pâtés as well.

Banglo is a relaxed, trendy and friendly place. I really want to keep that atmosphere and progress with the good work that has been started. We have Sundays down to a fine art, being praised for offering the best roasts in Bath. Ultimately we want those

comments for every day of the week. We also offer the venue for events which are really taking off now. Clients discuss their menu with me and then I make everything on site, right down to the scotch eggs! If we can cater for it, we will.

Banglo is a family-run business – Robbie, who looks after the place, has a passion for catering and he’s always keen to get involved. He’s so good with the customers and works his heart out for this place. His attitude is priceless to any bar or restaurant. He leaves me to get on with the menu however, I devise everything myself depending on what the local suppliers can bring.

I’m over gourmet cooking. banglo works well because we fall somewhere in between fine dining and home cooked food which looks great. It’s refreshing to be able to offer Bath something a little bit different.

I love the work Gordon Ramsay does. His cookbook Just Desserts is a favourite at home. He achieves Michelin stars by

cooking really good food with a small amount of ingredients. Although his recipes aren’t really designed for the beginner, you can get creative with them. No dish is the same twice; it’s not about replicating a recipe, it’s about the execution. People should just have a go at cooking, see what works and make it your own – don’t be scared if it doesn’t look like the picture.

I wouldn’t do anything else apart from cheffing. It keeps you on your toes and you are challenged everyday. I would recommend it but only if you are prepared to work hard and be dedicated. Too many give up too easily. 

Banglo Bar & Restaurant, 44 Lower Bristol Road Bath BA2 3BD 01225 345442 www.banglo.co.uk 53

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Beautiful award winning

cheeses, hand-made on the farm and full of natural goodness from our organic herd of fresian cows.

Visit our

Cheese Shop at Park Farm, Kelston ( just 2 miles west of Bath on A431 ) International Cheese Awards

GOLD Nantwich Show 2 0 10

National Cheese Awards

The Bath Soft Cheese Co. Park Farm, Kelston, Bath BA1 9AG Telephone: 01225 331601 Email:sales@parkfarm.co.uk www.parkfarm.co.uk

GOLD

Royal Bath & West Show 2 0 10

Don’t forget to check our website for more information on events coming up this year!

Winsley, Bradford on Avon BA15 2JB [t] 01225 864948 www.hartley-farm.co.uk

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Wazwaan Fish Stew This dish is from the northern parts of Kashmir and the style of cuisine is called 'Wazwaan', which was introduced in the 15th century by the Emperor Timur. The chefs who specialised in this cuisine were called 'Waza' and there are very few left who still practice it. It often comprises 36 courses and only the Waza have the right to taste the finished courses before it leaves the kitchen.

Hrishikesh Desai is head chef of Lucknam Park’s Brasserie and was the winner of last year’s prestigious Roux Scholarship.

Throughout October Hrishikesh will showcase the diverse flavours found in traditional Indian cooking that first inspired him. Using ingredients and spices from the contrasting regions of India, diners will be taken on a culinary journey of this spectacular and romantic country.

The Spice Route of India event will include a 3-course menu with a choice of 3 dishes for each course, for £27.

For further information or to book your reservation at The Brasserie please call 01225 740 576 or visit www.lucknampark.co.uk

Serves 4 Ingredients 600g white fish, cut into large chunks 1 lemon 12 black cardamoms, lightly crushed ½ meduim sized cinnamon stick 4g turmeric 3g ginger, finely minced 3g cumin seeds 1 fresh green chilli 100g unsalted butter ½ litre tomato juice 50gm tomato puree 40g peas 40g broad beans 12 baby carrots Half bunch of coriander, finely chopped Salt, to taste Sugar, to taste

Method 1 Cut the fish into chunks and season with salt and lemon.

2 Melt the butter on a medium heat in a large pan, add all the spices and cook for a few minutes – the ideal sign of cooked spices is the swelling of cardamoms and cinnamon stick.

3 Add the tomato juice and puree and cook the gravy on a low heat with a lid on the pan, stirring frequently. Once it comes to a gravy-like, thick consistency, season with salt and sugar to cut the acidity.

5 Blanch the vegetables in salted water and add to the sauce.

6 To cook the fish, arrange the marinated fish in a casserole or pie dish and pour the hot gravy on the top. Cook at 180°C for approximately 15 minutes until the fish starts flaking.

7 Serve with basmati rice.

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56 Bluestone-Neston:P.52 04/09/2010 16:00 Page 1

EARTH

FIRE

WAT E R

Earth, fire and water are the three elements that make up Bluestone, a garden design and build service which provides a full garden living experience. Through Bluestone, owner Ben Pike brings together his two passions; outdoor entertaining and beautiful garden design, enabling you to live at the heart of your own rural retreat. Based at Middlecombe Nursery in Congresbury, North Somerset, Bluestone provide a friendly and professional service, from concept through to completion.

Garden Design Studio, Middlecombe Nursery, Wrington Road, Congresbury, North Somerset BS49 5AN

01934 876355 / 07990 572698 www.bluestonewater.com

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Whilst the highs and lows of country life can send some city dwellers running back to more comfortable capital surroundings, for others, it's just their cup of tea. Lady Fuller, owner of the beautifully restored Neston Park Farm Shop in Wiltshire, is one such converted welly wearer: “Ten years ago I was living in London running an art gallery, I had no idea I would be where I am now – chasing cows and giving nature trail walks!”

Beginning life through a meat box scheme, the farm shop soon grew to incorporate a deli, butchers, café, bread and wine collection as well a stunning cheese selection headed by national cheese judge, Jenny Gane. Outside, a courtyard of tables allows customers to watch the Aberdeen Angus cross Jersey cows grazing. This elegant herd are just one of the many offerings at the farm; pigs, chickens and ducks will also keep the whole family entertained. “We can trace every animal from birth to slaughter, safe in the knowledge that they have had the best life possible. Our farm manager Sandy Macfarlane and cowman Paul Fry love them like children!”

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Browsing through chef Mark Nacchi’s lunch time menu is enough to whet anyone's appetite. The Great Taste Awards have given Gold to the shop’s homemade salami and faggots, and their scotch eggs and sausage rolls are in constant demand: “One gentleman from Norwich phoned up for four weeks in a row for Scotch eggs. We had to keep posting them out, but it’s great to be in the position to do that!”

The farm offers a nature trail that children can follow to learn more about the countryside.

They’re guided around to learn about the important role bees play in the eco-system, followed by a lesson in the shop on cows which provide the beef honey influences local produce.

According to Lady Fuller, “The future without doubt is to move forward with the educational programme. We want to work with local schools, helping to teach the next generation about farming and sustainability.”

What lies at the heart of the farm shop are values that are reminiscent of any English country village; the time it takes to care about people. “Neston Park is something for the community and we don’t just want customers to be clients, but friends.” If it seems that no one has time anymore, Neston is a haven to catch up on a few hours and rejuvenate, whether that’s for a life in the fast lane or the country pathway.

Neston Park Farm Shop Bath Road Atworth Wiltshire SN12 8HP 01225 700881 www.nestonparkfarmshop.com

neston park farm shop

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58 Stanton-BathPriory:P.52

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• Rosemary Restaurant • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch • “All you can eat” dinner on Thursdays • Japanese à la carte menu • Afternoon cream tea on the patio

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The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk

StantonHouseHotel www.stantonhouse.co.uk

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dirty girl diary

DirtyGirl DIARY

Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project ‘Dirty Girl Kitchen’. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations that no foodie should be without...

COOL AS A CUCUMBER…

TIME TO THINK PIG

The last time I used a cucumber it was over my eyes in a home beauty treatment.

However, now that mine are ready to harvest from my garden, they will be put to much better use. My greenie goods reached an impressive 40cm in length this year and will be used in everything! The cucumber is actually a highly nutritious vegetable. Not only is it high in vitamins A and C, folic acid and potassium, it Dirty Girl’s Cucumber Pickle contains silica, which is good for the skin, and helps prevent fluid retention.

1kg cucumbers Cucumber is part of the squash family, 3 small red onions which includes the similar-looking 1 tsb chopped dill or fennel (your marrow and courgette. My favourite way choice) to preserve the crispy, crunchy 250g granulated sugar cucumber for the months to come is to 1 tsb salt simply pickle it. Try it at home, it’s 200ml cider vinegar super simple.

The RSPCA has launched a new campaign asking consumers to ‘Think Pig’ as they do their weekly shop.

1 Slice the cucumbers and onions as thin as you can (or use a food processor) then combine the onions and cucumber slices with the dill or fennel in a large mixing bowl. Mix the sugar, salt and vinegar and pour over the cucumber mix. Leave overnight for the best result or at a bare minimum 3 hours, as the flavours need to mingle.

2 Pack into an airtight container or in wide necked jars and store in the fridge for up to four weeks. Beware, they are addictive!

HARVEST FESTIVAL

The UK is a nation of pork lovers – last year we spent a whopping £1.2 billion on bacon.

Yet, the majority of the 160m pigs raised annually in Europe for meat experience terrible living conditions during their lives. This includes highly restricted pens, no bedding and having to sleep on slatted floors, castrations without anaesthetic and untreated illness and infections such as ulcerated lesions or cuts on their flesh.

The Think Pig campaign has a simple checklist to help consumers buy higher welfare according to their budget. Look out for the Freedom Foods logo and if this isn’t available, buy ‘free range’, ‘outdoor reared’ or ‘outdoor bred’. Also, check your favourite brand has signed up to a new voluntary code by going to www.rspca.org.uk/thinkpig.

A happy pig is a healthy pig!

The Real Food Harvest Festival, an all-new event celebrating the abundance of British autumnal produce, will be making its appearance at London’s Southbank Centre from 23-26 September. Bringing together around 120 producers, a top line-up of chefs, livestock and entertainment to an expected 50,000 people, The Real Food Harvest Festival offers a fantastic opportunity to taste and buy the very best the UK has to offer. Oh, and it’s free! www.realfoodfestival.co.uk 59

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garrick’s head

garrick’s head A common perception of ‘real ale’ pubs is that to be any good, they have to be 100% exclusively at-the-expense-ofall-else fundamentalist real ale ‘churches’ where only the truly devout can worship.

These are places where such distractions as comfort and decoration are eschewed; where middle-aged, bearded men sit wearing T-shirts from a beer festival attended in 1986; where the only food on offer is a packet of pork scratchings; and woe betide you if you have the temerity to ask for a coffee or – sheer heresy – a glass of wine!

Fortunately, the truth is that, while such pubs do exist (and I confess I love them), there are more and more venues in which offering a selection of well-kept ales is merely an extension of the desire to provide the highest quality sustenance and the best possible surroundings to customers of all types.

Garrick’s Head Theatre Royal 7-8 St. Johns Place Bath BA1 1ET

One such pub is The Garrick’s Head in St John’s Place in Bath. Thought to have been a pub since around the turn of the 18th/19th century, it forms a part of a truly palatial building. Named for David Garrick, the actor, playwright and all-round thesp who frequented the city more than 200 years ago – and whose friend Bishop Warburton lived at nearby Prior Park – the pub may even predate the opening of the Theatre Royal next door.

01225 318 368 www.garricksheadpub.com

It is also thought to have been the home of Richard ‘Beau’ Nash, a still greater figure

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in the history of Bath. As Master of Ceremonies from 1704, he was at least in part responsible for Bath’s transformation from medieval walled city to the social Mecca of the eighteenth century and beyond. He is commemorated at nearby Bath Abbey.

These days, the Garrick’s Head is a ‘pub and dining room’, with diners attended to in the ornate restaurant area to the left as you enter. The kitchen was fully refurbished in August, and the Garrick’s Head continues to offer an imaginative and well-thought out menu. Ingredients are sourced from West Country suppliers (Pan-fried Cornish mackerel with samphire and mussels in Ivy Farm cream, anyone?) and this dedication to local produce extends to the beers on

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garrick’s head

Raise a glass to...

Palmer’s Best Bitter (4.2%) From Dorset. Have a waft of this midbrown bitter under your nose before tasting. That fruity aroma gives a real clue to the charm of the beer. On tasting, you’ll find the bitterness is nicely understated, with the malt coming to the fore.

Box Steam Dark & Handsome (5%) From Colerne in Wiltshire. A strong dark ale with a hint of those old sweet shops where you bought things by the quarter pound! Definitely blackcurrant in there, and lemon, even liquorice allsorts. But all presented in a smooth and creamy beer.

Exmoor Ale (3.8%) A citrus, zesty pale ale with a clean crisp taste. Smells to me of lemon or even grapefruit, but the hops come through in the end too.

The beers listed here were available at the time of our visit, but change frequently, so may very well not be the ones on offer when you visit.

offer in the bar area to the right.

With its bare wooden floors, dark wood furnishings and feature mirrors, this is just the sort of bar where you can imagine the literary giants of old supping a pint of ale and exchanging witticisms about the fops and dandies parading outside. There is a ceiling-height blackboard boasting a bewildering array of wines by the glass or bottle, and three (sometimes four) handpumps on the bar boasting everchanging local ales.

The combination when I visited, of a pale ale, a best bitter and a dark old ale demonstrated an understanding of the need for variety in beer selection. Buildings of this age and construction tend to lend themselves well to temperature control.

This, along with the quick turnaround of beers, ensures your pint or half is always fresh and eminently quaffable.

A notice on the blackboard behind the bar proclaims “We gurt loves our ciders” and this is evidenced by Worley’s Whole Juice cider, a Somerset special made using traditional methods, as well as the fearsome Broadoak Perry and the gentler Pheasant Plucker.

Hosts Charlie & Amanda Digney manage to

strike the balance between an impressive, even imposing building, and a relaxed and friendly informality. Whether you’re having a pre-theatre meal, or popping in for a drink and a break from shopping and tourist activities, this is a cracking example of a pub that offers a decent pint and a whole lot more besides. 

A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com 61

62 BlueBowl-Vodka-Lovejoys-Papa:P.52 04/09/2010 15:50 Page 1

The Blue Bowl Inn

THE LOVELIEST fISH &cHIpS In THE SOUTH WEST!

Country Pub & Restaurant

papa’s

Good food, well kept ales and a warm welcome!

fish restaurant a n D t a K e aW aY

Independently voted by Daily Mirror readers as the Best Fish & Chips in the South West!

~

Recent winners of The Regeneration Partners hip and Weston Mercury and Star FM’s Business of the Year Award

The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ Papa’s Fish Restaurant and Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~ Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com

• Fruit • Vegetables • Dairy • Bread

Tel. 01761 221269 www.thebluebowl.co.uk

u ullyy r r T T e e c c n xppeerriieen E Ex a k ka d d o o V V s s u ou ullo bu ab F Fa

Quality ingredients for restaurant kitchens in the West Wilts and Bath area. Local produce grown exclusively for us including specialist crops.

‘If you are passionate about your food we’d like to talk to you’

01225 708838 lovejoys@live.com Lovejoys Melksham

We only use the purest spirits blended or distilled with the finest natural ingredients, resulting in the smoothest, most delicious drinks suitable for drinking neat, over ice, in a cocktail, or as an ingredient in delicious food dishes.

Tel: 07902 209532 Web: www.fabulousvodka.co.uk

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siân blunos

know your

FRUIT

FRUIT Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

Baby leaf salad with Serrano ham, fresh figs and orange segments Serves 4 2 bags of prepared mixed baby leaf salad 6 figs quartered 250g Serrano or Parma ham, thinly sliced 50g pecorino, parmesan or manchego (whichever you can buy) 2 tbsp virgin oil 2 tsp balsamic vinegar 1 large orange segmented (keep the juice) 1 Simply put the salad leaves on a large plate; arrange the figs, ham and orange segments on top of the leaves.

2 With a potato peeler shave the cheese over the ham and figs 3 Whisk together orange juice, oil and vinegar and dress the salad just before serving.

F R U TI

Figs are small and luscious fruits, with a chewy texture and a very sweet smell. A member of the mulberry family (Ficus Carica), they first originated in Northern Asia. The Romans were avid lovers of the fruit and considered it a gift from the fertility God ‘Bacchus.’ It is also believed that the fig was Cleopatra’s most loved fruit. Whatever the rumours may be, it is certainly one of my favourites and with it being crammed full of natural nutritional goodness ideal for our growing children, it’s not hard to see why.

A rich source of calcium and potassium, figs help to maintain healthy bones and provide an excellent source of calcium that is beneficial to those who are lactose intolerant. There’s also good news for dieters as they are low in fat and high in fibre, providing more fibre than any other common fruit or vegetable. Also, look to figs for a good source of iron, magnesium and vitamin B6.

What is not so well-known about the humble fig is their ability to promote good sleep through a nutrient called tryptophan, which also helps the brain use glucose properly. Being the fruits with the highest levels of natural sugars, figs provide us with an excellent source of energy all day.

Good news for all of us!

Figs can be used for savoury or sweet dishes. One of my favourite dishes using figs is with a salad, which is always a winner with my kids. Full of fresh flavours and very colourful, this only takes minutes to make.

COOKING FOR COCO Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn't have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too.

With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com

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64 Questionnaire:Layout 1 04/09/2010 16:34 Page 64

reader survey

over to you...

WIN! A bread-making course at The Foodworks Cookery School!

1. I am...

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2. How often do you buy a food magazine?

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I have a regular subscription

Foodworks Cookery School are offering one lucky flavour reader a day with globetrotting artisan bread-maker Maurice Chaplais. Your course includes coffee in the morning, a buffet lunch with a complimentary glass of wine and a bag full of your own delicious breads.

For your chance to win, send this questionnaire back to us along with your name, address and phone number: Flavour Magazine, 151-153 Wick Road, Bristol BS4 4HH

3. Have we got too much or not enough of the following?

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7. How often do you holiday in the South West?

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Restaurant reviews 8. How often do you do the following?

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Interviews Eat out Current affairs news Visit country pubs Wine information Try out new food products Competitions and special offers Try out new recipes Food and travel Pay more for quality food and drink Farm and producer information Entertain at home Reader interaction Attend food festivals 4. What are your favourite things about flavour?

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For food and drink For homeware 11. I am interested in the following: Short breaks

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Name: Email address: Please sign me up for the flavour monthly eNewsletter!

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12. Are there any great foodie places that you would love to see featured?

FoodHeroes:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:30 Page 65

> flavour’s

food heroes

flavour’S

food heroes Feeling inspired by our talented readers, each month flavour will be looking at the unsung heroes of the foodie world – you! This month we talk to Stewart Mahoney who is a gourmet on the go…

Signature Dish

espite being a hardy nation when it comes to the weather, only a rare few follow Ray Mears’ example by heading into the wilderness during the chillier months.

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MOROCCAN LAMB WITH A WARM LENTIL SALAD This one pot dish is tasty, entirely seasonal and comforting. It’s preserved by so many herbs, spices and a bit of seasoning that it will keep well for a day of walking. If you’re cooking it at home, try it with monkfish or pork.

One such intrepid traveller is Stewart Mahoney, eager food enthusiast and camper critter. Stewart is ingenuous enough to pack up the kitchen necessities, set out on his travels and create great dinners within nature’s kitchen, much to the delight of his camping friends. Stewart comments: “My friends used to laugh at me for pulling out pre-prepared dinners from my rucksack. Now, it’s just expected that I bring the food.”

Serves 4 For the lamb 600g lamb neck fillet 6-8 shallots 2 cloves garlic 1 red pepper Handful chopped dried apricots ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon cumin Pinch of Cayenne pepper Handful fresh mint Handful fresh parsley 200ml tomato juice Handful flaked almonds Zest 1 lemon Juice of ½ lemon 4 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper to taste

Stewart has become renowned for his fishing tackle box. Inside you’ll struggle to find anything useful for a fishing trip but instead everything you need to create delicious meals wherever you are, including mini cubes of parmesan, small containers of pre-prepared stocks, herbs, spices and oils.

Travelling around the country and picking up different recipes since the age of 15 has influenced this Keynsham-born boy with the creativity and spontaneity so evident in his food. “Start by growing your own, even if the only space you have is a sunny windowsill to grow some parsley on. Don’t forget nature’s garden either – why spend a fortune in the supermarkets when you can do a bit of rummaging and pick it fresh, for free?”

So next time you think about embracing your more adventurous side, leave the tin of beans at home and plan a meal that you look forward to getting back to your tent for.

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For the warm lentil salad 150g dry-weight Puy lentils soaked overnight 1 courgette ¼ cucumber 1 clove garlic Juice of ½ lemon Teaspoon clear honey Tablespoon olive oil Handful fresh mint and parsley 2 tablespoons natural yogurt Salt and pepper to taste 1 Chop the lamb into bite sized chunks.

Also finely chop the shallots and garlic and roughly chop the red pepper. Place all prepared ingredients in a plastic food bag with the spices, lemon zest, dried apricots and almonds and leave for at least 1 hour or ideally, overnight.

2 Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and fry the contents of the bag briskly until the lamb browns. Add the tomato juice, lemon juice and chopped herbs and cook for a further 5-10 minutes 3 For the salad, bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add the lentils then simmer for 10 minutes or until lentils are tender.

4 Grate the courgette and cucumber and finely chop the garlic, place in a bowl with all the remaining ingredients. Drain the cooked lentils and mix with the cold ingredients to make the warm salad.

Whether you want to give us your favourite brownie recipe or have a friend who breeds their own pigs, please email faye@flavourmagazine.com or call us on 01179 779188.

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Food For Thoughtq7:Layout 1

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food for thought

Welcome to the future In a world where around one billion people are overweight and a further one billion are undernourished, Nathan Budd weighs up the cost of making the grass greener…

This paradox, this polarisation, this curse of the bizarre modern world we live in, sums up the entire mess we have gotten ourselves into. And it’s set to get worse. If this is one vision of the future, what else have we got to look forward to? I’ve had a go at predicting where we are all heading and it’s not comfortable reading: Commodities will become the oil of the future, if they already haven’t. A trader recently bought 241,000 tonnes of cocoa beans sending prices to their highest level since 1977. Scarcity (real or generated) is great for business. Hoarding food reserves or burning coffee fields to restrict supply will become the norm.

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BLEAK

OUTLOO

Green taxes will be placed on meat producers as a result of methane concerns.

Livestock will be fed modified foods and producers forced to rear them indoors. Biofuels will increase prices of all foods, as land is turned over to fuel production.

Similarly, natural disasters will wipe out huge swathes of crops. Concentration of commodity production in certain areas of the world will mean poorer nations don’t grow food for themselves, because they can’t afford to. This will lead to greater levels of starvation when crops fail or are destroyed.

The polarisation between rich and poor diets will become even greater. Richer nations will have the greatest levels of disparity. Sadly, this will echo socioeconomic categories and lead to epidemic levels of obesity, heart disease and the new killer, diabetes, within the poorer communities. Crippling costs will drain health and social services from those that need it.

The world will become increasingly addicted to fertilisers and pesticides.

As I write, BHP Biliton has made a $39 dollar bid for Canadian fertiliser firm K? PotashCorp. One of the world’s most powerful purveyors of scarce materials wants to buy a fertiliser company.

Think about it.

Supermarkets will control around 95% of food consumption. They will also control around 80% of farmland, as economies of scale become the only way to make agri-business work. Mass-dairy farms and enriched indoor environments will become the norm and there will be just three slaughterhouses throughout the entire UK.

More foods will be grown “artificially”, either as a result of the now barren land, or because of something more sinister. The world’s hunger for meat will be fulfilled by growing proteins in controlled environments. Genetics will allow us to grow artificial chicken; perhaps even at home.

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Cloning will become the norm and GM foods will enter all elements of the food system.

Global organisations will begin to “patent nature”, forming rights over genetically modified seeds and even livestock – this is already happening in the US. As these elements mix into the natural organic food chain they will launch legal actions to control organic production, citing misuse of patents.

Am I scaring you? Because, let me tell you, I’m trying to. You are the only person who can do anything to stop this.

Eat your own food, clean your plate, buy local, seasonal and ethical, and educate your children. Take exercise and enjoy every mouthful of food you consume.

Your future depends on it.

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LET US BRING THE RESTAURANT TO YOUR DOOR! If you’ve got a special event coming up or are simply after a dinner party to remember, then why not hire a private chef to cook for you in the comfort of your own home?

Our chefs are on hand to cook whatever whets your appetite.They'll construct a menu with you and give you those little tips gleaned from years of expertise in the trade.

We'll also send a waitress and take care of all the washing up, so all you have to do is concentrate on sitting back and enjoying your evening.

“

Chef For All Seasons recently catered for my dinner party of 16 guests.

They went out of their way to help me, providing three exceptional menus to suit my budget - the food was excellent and exceeded all my expectations. Both the chef and the waitress were a pleasure to have around, they found their way around the kitchen and left it cleaner than when they arrived! Thanks for a most enjoyable evening; I just need an excuse to have another dinner party now!

Telephone: 0845 475 0145 www.chefforallseasons.co.uk

”

Helen Nash

04-05 News:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:09 Page 4

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news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month TIGHTEN YOUR BELTS Economists have warned that food price inflation could hit 9% by the end of the year.

It is believed that recent rises of more than 12% of basic commodities such as wheat – up by 60% in the past 3 months – will be passed on to consumers by the autumn.

Over the past year, food prices have gone up by 3%, with prices of potatoes, onions and cauliflowers recording the sharpest rises. High wheat prices caused by poor Russian and Canadian harvests are also expected to push up the cost of meat, dairy products and bread.

VICTORY FOR RONNIE’S!

A ROYAL VISIT

Crowds gathered recently at St Nick’s Market to watch flavour’s resident chef Ron Faulkner (pictured right) go head to head with Berwick Lodge’s Johnny Evans in a new Channel 5 programme called ‘Street Market Chefs’, due to air this month.

The Prince of Wales is embarking on an eco-friendly tour of the UK to promote sustainable living by visiting various green projects around Britain.

Under the watchful eyes of the public and a panel of tasting judges, the two competing chefs prepared a two-course menu of local and seasonal fare in the hope of taking home the title. On eventually being crowned the winner, Ron Faulkner said: “I was delighted, not only for myself but for the whole team as it’s a positive reflection on them too – there’s a real sense of pride whenever we get a good review or win an award like this.”

To celebrate their victory and their 3rd birthday, Ronnie’s are offering one lucky flavour reader the chance to WIN a Champagne dinner for two. To enter, simply email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

HRH will be promoting the START initiative in Bristol, joining shoppers around a special eco-living exhibition in Cabot Circus and meeting community groups including the Bristol Cycle group. He’ll arrive on the royal train, which in keeping with the ethos of the tour, runs entirely on bio-fuel.

www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

WINNERS Congratulations to Caroline Ross from Corsham who has won an overnight stay for two at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Marlow!

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Congratulations to Susan Burton from Bristol who has won a pair of tickets to Love Cooking festival!

04-05 News:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:09 Page 5

> flavour

news

DELMONICO Bristol's stylish venue Delmonico is gearing up for winter parties with its elegant private dining room, offering complete privacy for up to 30 guests. Chef Tyrone Tippins and his team are constantly changing the menus to move with the seasons, based on fresh ingredients prepared simply.

The small, expertly selected wine list includes classic French wines and champagne, as well as more unusual bottles from around the world. The list acts as the perfect complement to the array of Anglo-French cuisine on offer, as well as some more contemporary flavours with American, Asian and Italian influences.

01179 445673 www.delmonico.co.uk

WIN! A YEAR’S SUPPLY OF ORGANIC EGGS!

CHUTFEST A celebration of all things preserved! Swap your homemade chutneys with fellow enthusiasts and taste the delights of Barrington Court’s annual food fair. Visitors can also get in a pickle and enter their concoctions into a competition to win a day with award-winning chutney makers Tracklements.

Promising eggs on your plate within 24 hours and conforming to the highest Soil Association standards, family-run organic company Eggsilicious are fast becoming a household name. Egg lovers will be glad to know that the Wiltshire farm is not only home to happy, free-roaming hens, but also sources quail, duck and goose eggs too!

This year’s Chutfest takes place on 2 and 3 October.

To WIN a dozen organic eggs every month for a year, simply email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

www.eggsilicious.co.uk

SUCK OR CRUNCH? Britain might like to think of itself as the nation that invented good manners, but according to a new study, we’ve shed our traditional stiff upper lip and become a sensual food nation.

A third of Brits admit forgoing cutlery and eating food with their fingers and one in six of us even lick the plate! Researchers also say the way we eat sweets also reveals our character – suckers are strategic and calm, whereas crunchers are impulsive and competitive.

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Contents:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:50 Page 3

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com

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Editorial Assistant: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Kate Gardner Email: kate@flavourmagazine.com

Welcome to the September issue of flavour!

Debbie Wylde Email: debbie@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker Contributors: Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock, Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.

Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

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Please send any comments or suggestions to the publisher at the above address.

Predicting key autumn trends renders it one of the most important issues of the year within the industry, and by extension, one of the bulkiest. Having produced the official Organic Food Festival show guide which features as a supplement this month, I can confidently say that flavour has, for one month only, something in common with the world’s best-known fashion magazine!

For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print.

We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients.

We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship.

We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed.

For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions.

All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old.

Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability.

Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

If the fly-on-the-wall documentary that followed Vogue’s formidable Editor-in-Chief is to be believed, putting together the September issue is not an undertaking for the faint hearted.

contents 6

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In Season Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash bring you the best of the season's produce WIN! A champagne meal for two at Ronnie's Restaurant!

Bristol’s Organic Food Festival is one of the largest events of its kind in Europe and celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, a year that promises to be the most exciting to date. In our own celebration of all things green, we’ve been down to Rod and Ben’s farm in Exeter (PAGE 28), finding out the truth behind raw organic milk (PAGE 47) and unearthing some of the New World’s leading lights in organic and biodynamic wine production (PAGE 48).

We hope you enjoy reading this issue and the show guide as much as we’ve enjoyed making them.

12 James Martin The chef who changed Saturday morning TV 20 Food From Plenty Diany Henry on the art of frugal feasts 34 Bistrot Coco A corner of France in the heart of Cheltenham

Happy Eating!

Holly Aurelius-Haddock